From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  1 02:11:44 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 01:11:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] painting/cage nuts
In-Reply-To: <601446.13129.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090501081144504.GGFH6143@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> or just paint and
> use tap to clean later?  any ideas would help!

I have found it advisable to chase the threads anyway, even when not
painting; so my advice is paint & tap.

But I use an old, rather worn tap ... which got that way chasing TR3 caged
nuts <G>  Being somewhat lazy, in most cases I use an air ratchet to drive
the tap in & out.

Some anti-seize on the bolt threads will make future disassembly much
easier, too.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  1 02:23:10 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 01:23:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Master Cylinder help part II - PDWA
In-Reply-To: <c30.556f9547.372b96af@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20090501082310817.PRKQ22077@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Putting both on seems redundant except for the fact 
> that it was a convenient lamp test feature.

While I'm not really disputing your point, Dave, I'd have to say I do see
some utility in having both a warning light and a gauge.  The warning light
hopefully grabs your attention immediately, instead of waiting for you to
scan the gauges; while the gauge provides useful other information besides
"do I have oil pressure".

Kind of like having both a generator warning light and an ammeter <G>

BTW, my 80 Chevy had both warning lights and gauges for oil pressure,
charging system, temperature and fuel.

Randall

From auprichard at comcast.net  Fri May  1 05:35:53 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 07:35:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] painting/cage nuts
In-Reply-To: <601446.13129.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <601446.13129.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9BC0F946E1414FA9A5E70F160C1ED67A@DCH6RFC1>

I just had my car painted and we used drywall anchors:  very inexpensive.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 12:08 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] painting/cage nuts

Just a quick question concerning painting a car with cage nuts.  Is there a
quick way to keep them clean?  I'd thought of sticking que tips into each
hole
to keep them clean but that could get gummy and stick.  trying to think of
something cheap and easy to buy to keep the paint out.  

or just paint and
use tap to clean later?  any ideas would help!

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

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From peterara at msn.com  Fri May  1 06:09:57 2009
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 05:09:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] OT - RockAuto.com vs. Partsfactor.com??
Message-ID: <BAY114-DS4ED417FDC357BF62F76D4C16D0@phx.gbl>

If you are in CA, be aware that there are new Air Resources Board requirements
for catalytic converters that are different from other 49 states.

Peter

From bob at texmog.com  Fri May  1 06:48:37 2009
From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 07:48:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 oil consumption
Message-ID: <585088520AB749A8BEE77A3BE0D3376C@CARROOM>

On a TR3 engine, during break-in what should one expect as far as oil
consumption? 

Thanks 

Bob 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May  1 07:16:50 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 09:16:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] Master Cylinder help part II - PDWA
Message-ID: <c3e.496b1957.372c5042@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/1/2009 3:23:18 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> While I'm not really disputing your point, Dave, I'd have to say I do see
> some utility in having both a warning light and a gauge.  The warning 
> light
> hopefully grabs your attention immediately, instead of waiting for you to
> scan the gauges; while the gauge provides useful other information besides
> "do I have oil pressure".
> 
I would agree with your assesment of the utility but for a near entry level 
sports car that could be considered a luxury and seeing how much pressure 
S-T was under to keep costs down they needed more justification for including 
both.

30+ years later, we Triumph enthusiasts are not under the same pressure.  
Which explains why the percentage of cars with overdrive transmissions has 
skyrocketed.

Dave

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri May  1 07:27:56 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 09:27:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] painting/cage nuts
Message-ID: <cc0.53da4e36.372c52dc@aol.com>

reusable silicon plugs are made for this purpose - indispensable for powder
 coating - quick, easy, clean and useful for painting too

Cheers,
Jack Mc


In a message dated 5/1/2009 12:08:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:

Just a  quick question concerning painting a car with cage nuts.  Is there
a
quick way to keep them clean?  I'd thought of sticking que tips into  each
hole
to keep them clean but that could get gummy and stick.   trying to think of
something cheap and easy to buy to keep the paint  out.

or just paint and
use tap to clean later?  any  ideas would help!

gary  n.


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From mmoore8425 at aol.com  Fri May  1 07:43:31 2009
From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 06:43:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] painting/cage nuts
In-Reply-To: <cc0.53da4e36.372c52dc@aol.com>
References: <cc0.53da4e36.372c52dc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8ABA5FBC-5608-49AF-91A5-D33DE75B200C@aol.com>

Those must be nice.
I personally still like to tap all threaded holes after painting, and  
make sure the nut floats properly etc.
Mike Moore
On May 1, 2009, at 6:27 AM, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:

> reusable silicon plugs are made for this purpose - indispensable for  
> powder
> coating - quick, easy, clean and useful for painting too
>
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri May  1 09:00:46 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 10:00:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT - RockAuto.com vs. Partsfactor.com??
References: <BAY114-DS4ED417FDC357BF62F76D4C16D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <58E6C2F44D194703B3BCD3985A22B7BE@yourpd3mh0abgs>

and that's just on the electic cars.....
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Peter Arakelian" <peterara at msn.com>
To: "Listers" <>
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 7:09 AM
Subject: [TR] OT - RockAuto.com vs. Partsfactor.com??


> If you are in CA, be aware that there are new Air Resources Board 
> requirements
> for catalytic converters that are different from other 49 states.
>
> Peter
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  1 09:55:36 2009
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 08:55:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] rockauto.com
Message-ID: <58476.98270.qm@web80405.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've bought several TR4 parts (generator, temp sender, front wheel bearings / seals, etc.) from Rock Auto with good results and good prices.

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri May  1 10:33:50 2009
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 09:33:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Home again...
Message-ID: <799409.56069.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yesterday morning, for no specific reason, I decided to phone my
parents to say hello.  They also live in Vermont, but are Florida
snowbirds in winter.  When there was no answer at the house, I went the
cellphone route.  Were they out on the golf course, at the beach, or standing
in line at the early bird?  Not exactly.  

Me:      Hey, where are you?
Them:  "We're driving home early, currently in Virginia. Should be back
tomorrow"
Me (out loud):  Great - can't wait to see you
Me (under my breath): 
Oh crap.

It's not that I didn't want to see mom and dad again, it's just that
Trevor the Triumph was still resting peacefully in the garage - their garage -
his usual winter storage place.  What is it with you parents that you don't
tell us where you are and what you're up to all the time - huh?  Isn't it in
the contract somewhere?  I could have left the car there for a while, but this
was my wake-up call to accept the fact although there's still skiing going
on here in Vermont, that spring and car season had indeed arrived.  

Hold all
calls - cancel all meetings.  Although it actually was 60 degrees and sunny,
a lot of rain was in the immediate forecast.  Now I don't shy away
from adverse weather - and have driven in the snow more than once (see earlier
posts) - I thought it might be bad karma to kick off the season by getting
very wet.  So, I made a quick call to my wife and within a couple of hours we
were doing the two-hour drive down to the house.

With the sky getting darker
by the minute, I uncovered the TR6, did a quick once-over, and checked the
fluifs - but that's all I had time for.  Didn't even charge the battery.  A
touch of the key (I love my gear-reduction starter) and vroom - I was off with
a big smile on my face.  Except for a call from my wife travelling behind, who
reminded me that I was speeding (never did recalibrate the speedo after
installing the 5-speed), I spent some quality alone-time listening to the
exhaust and doing my annual mental checklist of all things Triumph.  What to
fix or change, what shows and events to go to, etc.  I also realized that
Trevor and I were just beginning our 25th year of motoring together.  We got
home just as the sun was setting, with a few raindrops had hitting the
windshield.  A quick bath in the driveway, into the garage.  
      
Home
again...

Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF18928 5-speed 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri May  1 10:54:07 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 12:54:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Home again...
In-Reply-To: <799409.56069.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <49FAF0EF.15692.4BB25E4@localhost>

On 1 May 2009 at 9:33, Joe Merone wrote a marvelous report of waking 
up his TR6.

I give you joy of your car's waking!

> What is it with you parents that you don't tell us where you
> are and what you're up to all the time - huh?  Isn't it in
> the contract somewhere?

They are getting even with you for your negligent youth.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri May  1 11:42:59 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 10:42:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] painting/cage nuts
Message-ID: <11824.97489.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

thanks for the help on the painting question!  I knew there would be more good
ideas out there than I had in my head!  I've already chased all the threads
with a tap and didn't relish doing that again.LOL  I love the idea of silicon
plugs if i can find a source.......also the drywall plastic plugs sound
perfect.......screws also might work.

thanks!!

gary n.

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Fri May  1 13:06:58 2009
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 12:06:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] painting/cage nuts
In-Reply-To: <11824.97489.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <551343.37094.qm@web81404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Gary;
 
 Here's a source for silicon plugs. I have bought powder from them but not the
plugs. Good place to deal with.

http://www.pendrypowdercoatings.com/shop/  


John Young Indiana
'66 Spitfire
'59 TR3A (getting body work done)
'59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway.


--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [TR] painting/cage nuts
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 1:42 PM
> thanks for the help on the painting question! I knew there
> would be more good
> ideas out there than I had in my head! I've already
> chased all the threads
> with a tap and didn't relish doing that again.LOL I
> love the idea of silicon
> plugs if i can find a source.......also the drywall plastic
> plugs sound
> perfect.......screws also might work.
>
> thanks!!
>
> gary n.

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri May  1 15:29:15 2009
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 14:29:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] test
Message-ID: <9F30DCE8-6B8C-4062-A26F-06C1D2CF1E7F@cox.net>

Test

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  1 16:48:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 15:48:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 oil consumption
In-Reply-To: <585088520AB749A8BEE77A3BE0D3376C@CARROOM>
References: <585088520AB749A8BEE77A3BE0D3376C@CARROOM>
Message-ID: <06041A9A8CF7433F9F9480A9F6854B8A@jdnet.deere.com>

> On a TR3 engine, during break-in what should one expect as far as oil
> consumption?

Mine have all been too low to notice before the first oil change at 500
miles.  But of course that is starting from after the initial startup; as it
takes a fair amount to fill the oil canister the first time.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  1 16:52:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 15:52:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] OT - RockAuto.com vs. Partsfactor.com??
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-DS4ED417FDC357BF62F76D4C16D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY114-DS4ED417FDC357BF62F76D4C16D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D4DD2EA7501D4432AB16E64618366A87@jdnet.deere.com>

> If you are in CA, be aware that there are new Air Resources Board
> requirements
> for catalytic converters that are different from other 49 states.

Is that only the ban on unapproved "general replacement" catalysts?  Or is
there something else?

-- Randall 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri May  1 17:47:33 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 18:47:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] moss interiors
References: <585088520AB749A8BEE77A3BE0D3376C@CARROOM>
	<06041A9A8CF7433F9F9480A9F6854B8A@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <59AA0F0FD60448F9870BAC6EAC6E6DB4@yourpd3mh0abgs>

hello all,
I received a panel kit for my early tr4 today from moss, and I must say I am
disappointed.
I am not saying it is a terrible kit, and it DOES sort of approximate the
original....BUT there are significant differences between it and the factory
panels.
where my door panels and wheel panels (and others) have a heat embossed accent
strip, the moss kit has a cheesy series of stitches that sort of reminds one
of how the originals looked.  or of a fiat interior in the 70's.
I think I will return this set, (and by the bye, the price wasn't cheesy) and
seek elsewhere.
before I do send these back, does anyone have knowledge of anyone who makes
the panels with the heat embossing?
this is for a early tr4 convertible....
Best,
Ray

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May  1 18:14:06 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 20:14:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] moss interiors
In-Reply-To: <59AA0F0FD60448F9870BAC6EAC6E6DB4@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <585088520AB749A8BEE77A3BE0D3376C@CARROOM>
	<06041A9A8CF7433F9F9480A9F6854B8A@jdnet.deere.com>
	<59AA0F0FD60448F9870BAC6EAC6E6DB4@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <200905012014.06801.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 01 May 2009 07:47:33 pm spook01 wrote:
> hello all,
> I received a panel kit for my early tr4 today from moss, and I must say I
> am disappointed.
> I am not saying it is a terrible kit, and it DOES sort of approximate the
> original....BUT there are significant differences between it and the
> factory panels.
> where my door panels and wheel panels (and others) have a heat embossed
> accent strip, the moss kit has a cheesy series of stitches that sort of
> reminds one of how the originals looked.  or of a fiat interior in the
> 70's.
> I think I will return this set, (and by the bye, the price wasn't cheesy)
> and seek elsewhere.
> before I do send these back, does anyone have knowledge of anyone who makes
> the panels with the heat embossing?
> this is for a early tr4 convertible....
> Best,
> Ray
Ray,

You might want to send an email to http://www.john-skinner.co.uk/.

I ordered a seat re-upholstery set for my TR6 project as it is made to 
original specs. I have seen photos of the kits and the finished project on the 
6-pack forum and they are top quality.

My guess is that the interior panels would be as good.

Next year, I plan to order the 6 project interior from them as well.

Their stuff is usually made to order so there can a wait. Their prices are very 
good but one does take a beating on the shipping!

Bob

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  1 18:25:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 17:25:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lightened ring gear
In-Reply-To: <20090501031705.9F36918804E@autox.team.net>
References: <20090501031705.9F36918804E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <FB75F86C544C44FBB1F020591D1DFEC9@jdnet.deere.com>

Does that mean Joe A. is out of the ones he had made?

-- Randall 

From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com  Fri May  1 19:08:20 2009
From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 18:08:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] moss interiors
In-Reply-To: <59AA0F0FD60448F9870BAC6EAC6E6DB4@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <585088520AB749A8BEE77A3BE0D3376C@CARROOM><06041A9A8CF7433F9F9480A9F6854B8A@jdnet.deere.com>
	<59AA0F0FD60448F9870BAC6EAC6E6DB4@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <99E1200AF9204AC3A0319D70C048C3F8@rwa.local>

Ray,

I have never replaced the interior in my TR3, but I did a complete interior
replacement on our Morris Minor Traveller (seats, panels, & headliner).  We
used a kit made by Newton Commercial. It was excellent quality and an exact
match of the original '69 materials with heat embossed accent lines on the
door panels.

I got it from my Morris parts supplier, Morris Minor Center (Bath) Ltd. in
the UK, not from Newton directly. If they make TR4 kits, you will not be
disappointed. 

Roger Wilson

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 4:48 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: [TR] moss interiors

hello all,
I received a panel kit for my early tr4 today from moss, and I must say I am
disappointed.
I am not saying it is a terrible kit, and it DOES sort of approximate the
original....BUT there are significant differences between it and the factory
panels.
where my door panels and wheel panels (and others) have a heat embossed
accent
strip, the moss kit has a cheesy series of stitches that sort of reminds one
of how the originals looked.  or of a fiat interior in the 70's.
I think I will return this set, (and by the bye, the price wasn't cheesy)
and
seek elsewhere.
before I do send these back, does anyone have knowledge of anyone who makes
the panels with the heat embossing?
this is for a early tr4 convertible....
Best,
Ray
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as rjwilson1250 at gmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive
 

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From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Fri May  1 19:57:58 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 18:57:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] moss interiors
In-Reply-To: <99E1200AF9204AC3A0319D70C048C3F8@rwa.local>
References: <585088520AB749A8BEE77A3BE0D3376C@CARROOM>
	<06041A9A8CF7433F9F9480A9F6854B8A@jdnet.deere.com>
	<59AA0F0FD60448F9870BAC6EAC6E6DB4@yourpd3mh0abgs>
	<99E1200AF9204AC3A0319D70C048C3F8@rwa.local>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10905011857w2c5bd572u7291b1ce41ddf812@mail.gmail.com>

I just installed a full interior on my late TR4 from TRF. As near as I can
tell it was identical to the one I removed, except that I changed colors.
John Howard

On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 6:08 PM, Roger Wilson <rjwilson1250 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Ray,
>
> I have never replaced the interior in my TR3, but I did a complete interior
> replacement on our Morris Minor Traveller (seats, panels, & headliner).  We
> used a kit made by Newton Commercial. It was excellent quality and an exact
> match of the original '69 materials with heat embossed accent lines on the
> door panels.
>
> I got it from my Morris parts supplier, Morris Minor Center (Bath) Ltd. in
> the UK, not from Newton directly. If they make TR4 kits, you will not be
> disappointed.
>
> Roger Wilson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spook01
> Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 4:48 PM
> To: 'Triumph List'
> Subject: [TR] moss interiors
>
> hello all,
> I received a panel kit for my early tr4 today from moss, and I must say I
> am
> disappointed.
> I am not saying it is a terrible kit, and it DOES sort of approximate the
> original....BUT there are significant differences between it and the
> factory
> panels.
> where my door panels and wheel panels (and others) have a heat embossed
> accent
> strip, the moss kit has a cheesy series of stitches that sort of reminds
> one
> of how the originals looked.  or of a fiat interior in the 70's.
> I think I will return this set, (and by the bye, the price wasn't cheesy)
> and
> seek elsewhere.
> before I do send these back, does anyone have knowledge of anyone who makes
> the panels with the heat embossing?
> this is for a early tr4 convertible....
> Best,
> Ray
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri May  1 21:50:30 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 22:50:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lightened ring gear
In-Reply-To: <FB75F86C544C44FBB1F020591D1DFEC9@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20090501031705.9F36918804E@autox.team.net>
	<FB75F86C544C44FBB1F020591D1DFEC9@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <20090502035038.26EFA187646@autox.team.net>

Was Joe doing the ring gears?  I only knew about the flywheels...

- Tony

At 07:25 PM 5/1/2009, Randall wrote:
>Does that mean Joe A. is out of the ones he had made?
>
>-- Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sat May  2 05:29:32 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 12:29:32 +0100
Subject: [TR] TTACD Website updates
Message-ID: <01DD9E52E9604C68BFD1DC05543F6487@Bevan>

Hi, Everyone

I'm going to be taking a few days off this coming week, so won't be at my keyboard to answer queries 
any of you may have about developments for Triumph Trans-America.
There have been some updates on the site that you may not have noticed.
1. The Stag.
Joe Pawlak and the Worshipful Company of Busted Knucklers at ISOA have worked truly wondrous things 
in bringing 'uncle jack' back into running order. Just LOOK at that paint finish!!!! At the time of 
writing, while we don't have the very latest pix of the car with the lights and grille fitted (with 
all the stuff that goes behind them) I'm sure you'll agree this car is amazing.
2. The Route page
Has been updated several times as news comes in from the Clubs about the plans they have for taking 
part in the event. For those of you in Florida and especially within easy reach of Daytona Beach, 
there are more comprehensive details about the START itself and what will be happening when things 
get underway on 27th June.
3. Media Coverage.
It's also worth mentioning that interest is building in the UK - even though the event won't be 
taking place there. Several UK clubs in Rotary International have also most generously pledged money 
for all THREE non-profits which I feel is not only very generous but most commendable as well, 
because many organisations and individuals only tend to support what's going on in the own 
backyards. There's also additional coverage from a substantial regional newspaper and the link to 
the article in question - published on 1st May, is already on the Home Page of the site.

In less than two months, we'll be on our way!

Cheers, Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Sat May  2 05:41:22 2009
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 04:41:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] moss interiors
In-Reply-To: <200905012014.06801.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <355869.42030.qm@web51307.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Another vote for Skinner interiors.  I ordered a TR6 interior from them during a Triumph show at Stoneleigh Park - it arrived quickly and was a perfect match in all respects with high quality materials.  Very nice people too!

Steve
CC25805 (O suffix in process!)

--- On Fri, 5/1/09, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] moss interiors
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Friday, May 1, 2009, 5:14 PM
> On Friday 01 May 2009 07:47:33 pm spook01 wrote:
> > hello all,
> > I received a panel kit for my early tr4 today from
> moss, and I must say I
> > am disappointed.
> > I am not saying it is a terrible kit, and it DOES sort
> of approximate the
> > original....BUT there are significant differences
> between it and the
> > factory panels.
> > where my door panels and wheel panels (and others)
> have a heat embossed
> > accent strip, the moss kit has a cheesy series of
> stitches that sort of
> > reminds one of how the originals looked.  or of a fiat
> interior in the
> > 70's.
> > I think I will return this set, (and by the bye, the
> price wasn't cheesy)
> > and seek elsewhere.
> > before I do send these back, does anyone have
> knowledge of anyone who makes
> > the panels with the heat embossing?
> > this is for a early tr4 convertible....
> > Best,
> > Ray
> Ray,
> 
> You might want to send an email to
> http://www.john-skinner.co.uk/.
> 
> I ordered a seat re-upholstery set for my TR6 project as it
> is made to 
> original specs. I have seen photos of the kits and the
> finished project on the 
> 6-pack forum and they are top quality.
> 
> My guess is that the interior panels would be as good.
> 
> Next year, I plan to order the 6 project interior from them
> as well.
> 
> Their stuff is usually made to order so there can a wait.
> Their prices are very 
> good but one does take a beating on the shipping!
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  2 05:44:25 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 04:44:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Lightened ring gear
In-Reply-To: <B6.E8.14481.E03CBF94@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <20090502114426271.DXK22077@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Was Joe doing the ring gears?  I only knew about the flywheels...

My apologies, Tony.  It wasn't Joe, it was your Dad.  

I got confused because the one hanging on my garage wall happens to be
mounted on a flywheel with Joe's sticker on it.

In the words of Maxwell Smart, "Sorry about that, Chief."

Randall

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat May  2 08:24:27 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 09:24:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] looking for a tr4
References: <c41.52d7a8aa.36d01ddd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001c9cb33$1bbf6af0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>

i apologize for the bandwidth.

there was a lister looking for a tr4; i'm not sure if he/she has found it 
yet.

here's one:  http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/1146040237.html

this is local to me; i'll go look at it if someone wants me to; please 
contact me off list.  absolutely nfi; just trying to help (and looking for 
an excuse to go look at it and test drive it!)

OK. back to the garage! 

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat May  2 09:02:52 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 10:02:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] XK8's?
References: <453695.50576.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D087306B424E4F669F88F1B38C81A7C5@trigeni.com>

I have a 2000 XK8 convertible that had 50k on it when I bought it two years 
ago.  I have put 10k on it since.  I had to replace a coil and a set of 
plugs last year for a total of about $540, I believe.  Most of that cost was 
labor, as you can imagine.  I found a mechanic that had all the appropriate 
Jag diagnostics equipment and whose labor rate was $125/hr vs $145 at the 
dealership.

I love the car and drive it on sunny dry days.  I hope to keep it for a long 
time.  I take it on the occasional long trip to keep its lungs clear.

Mike



>     My beloved TR3 was wearing me out and I decided to modernize a bit, so 
> I
> bought a TR6 to complement it. I have toyed with the idea of a Honda 
> S2000,
> Miata and BMW Z4, but couldn't bring myself to lower the Union jack. I've
> looked at Lotus Elise's, but they are still bring high 20's in SoCal. 
> Looking
> on Criagslist I see lots of Jag XK8's for between $8,000 and $14,000. Most
> have about 70,000 miles on them. They look tempting. Is something starting 
> to
> break on them at about this mileage? I hypothesize that perhaps the first
> owners are getting their first repair bills and are dumping the cars. Do 
> any
> listers have XK8's and how are they doing?

From cofrog at q.com  Sat May  2 09:42:45 2009
From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 15:42:45 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 Wheels
Message-ID: <SNT105-W26B0ABD263F759E553F102D46A0@phx.gbl>

Does anyone have a set of four 15x6 rims that are appropriate to use as spares
on a TR4 race car that they would like to sell?



Thanks,



Dan Forgey

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat May  2 12:29:02 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 14:29:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] moss interiors
Message-ID: <d23.3e6c2193.372deaee@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/1/2009 7:48:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
spook01 at comcast.net writes:

before I  do send these back, does anyone have knowledge of anyone who makes
the  panels with the heat embossing?
this is for a early tr4  convertible....
Best,
Ray



Ray,
I know exactly what you have since the PO of my 62 TR4 used a Moss  
interior kit.  Almost certain that TRF's panels have pressed seams.   TRF's are 
also the right color if that is a factor.  BTW, I  always get a deduction for 
the Moss panels when my TR4 is judged  in Concours. 
Darrell
**************Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web.  
Try the new Email Toolbar now! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown00000027)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat May  2 12:40:03 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 14:40:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Green hoses now black
Message-ID: <d25.4c4d87c6.372ded83@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
What's up with my repro green hoses that have turned black over the winter? 
 I have a combination of NOS and TRF hoses that I just installed last  
summer.  The repros that I replaced were alright. Now I have nice  green NOS and 
dirty, almost black looking repros. Anyone else have this  problem?
Darrell

**************Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web.  
Try the new Email Toolbar now! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown00000027)

From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Sat May  2 13:13:54 2009
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 14:13:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Keith Bryson's triumphs
Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB1A2265@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>

Friends-


As most of you know, Keith Bryson tragically passed in an airplane
accident recently. He was engaged and his fiance, Brenda Weaver, has
asked me to help sell his collector cars.

He has the following vehicles-


1. 1968 TR 250- this car was initially restored by Dolly Larock and
Tanker Coughenour. Dolly works at TRF. Keith bought it in a restored
condition and then improved it to concours condition. This car won Best
of Show at 6Pack a few years ago. It is black with a black interior. It
could easily win again today in my opinion.

2. 1986 Jaguar XJ6- This car was Keith's since new. It has approximately
2,000 miles on it. It is BRG with a tan interior

3. 1973 Triumph Stag- This is a car Keith loved because it was
different. I really don't know much about Stags or this car
specifically. It is red, with a black interior and runs and drives well.


I traveled with Keith to many shows, hauling the TR 250 and Jaguar. We
will also list a trailer that he used to travel with these cars. I don't
know much about the trailer other than it is white, dual axles, nicely
appointed and purchased new from Trailer World here in Bowling Green,
KY. All three cars would be a fine compliment to any collection. They
should be with informed enthuasists, like their prior owner.

The cars and trailer will soon be posted on Ebay and I will give this
List notice when they are photographed and placed for sale.

All the best-



Steve Thornton
Bowling Green, KY

From lherault at bu.edu  Sat May  2 14:53:07 2009
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sat, 02 May 2009 16:53:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] My first Electrical gremlin
Message-ID: <8352BD8621A848938B7ADE36036E0FA6@ronlherault>

I have a 73 TR-6 that has not seen much use (80K miles) and has never been
on winter roads.  Perhaps because of this, I have not really had electrical
problems however, the horns would not blow consistently so I though I might
try to figure out why.  I checked ground connections and had continuity to
the column although you could see from the drop in intensity of the test
light that it was not perfect.  I cleaned and tightened the bolt at the end
which helped. The horn would beep once maybe twice then stop.  Now for the
strange part.  When the engine is running, there is no ground connection to
the steering column.  Hopefully unrelated, I have just installed a rebuilt
Lucas alternator.  It seems to put out 14 volts.  The idiot light glows
until RPMs increase quite a bit though.  Wires don't seem abnormally hot.

Thanks,

Ron L

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  2 15:59:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 14:59:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] My first Electrical gremlin
In-Reply-To: <8352BD8621A848938B7ADE36036E0FA6@ronlherault>
Message-ID: <20090502215915807.RVEE19475@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> I checked ground connections and had continuity to 
> the column although you could see from the drop in intensity 
> of the test light that it was not perfect.  I cleaned and 
> tightened the bolt at the end which helped.

Most likely suspect is the ground wire at the rack (which goes to the bolt
you remove to grease the rack as I recall).  Next suspect would be the
jumper across the rubber union in the middle of the column.  But there are
lots of other things it could be, like the slip ring inside the steering
wheel or even a dodgy relay or horn.  For me, it seems to usually be the
horns themselves.  If one horn is drawing too much current, sometimes the
other one won't work even though there isn't anything wrong with it.

Although a 73 uses a horn relay so the column & switch don't need to carry
much current; I would suggest using a higher power test light, like maybe an
old headlight bulb, and making sure it lights full bright.  That should help
make any marginal connections more obvious.  Using a voltmeter in
combination with a test load (like the headlight bulb) is a very effective
technique for finding marginal (high resistance) joints.

> Hopefully unrelated, I have just 
> installed a rebuilt Lucas alternator.

Should not be related; the horn should work even without the alternator.

Randall

From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com  Mon May  4 09:53:33 2009
From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn)
Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 08:53:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Raceway Pictures
Message-ID: <BLU147-W25919CF0A8013BBBBD7749DD680@phx.gbl>

Hi - I have posted the pictures I took this last weekend at the British
Extravaganza at Buttonwillow Raceway, CA.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157617578136451/detail/



There is one video.  I apologize for the picture quality, but the sound is
kinda neat.



BTW, there are lots of Spits!!



The next batch of pictures will be from the British Car Show in Woodland, CA
on May 17th.



Enjoy,



David Gunn

1954 TR2 Coupe

TS3388L

Chico, CA

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. goes with you.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_
Mobile1_052009

From dougfr at comcast.net  Tue May  5 09:19:56 2009
From: dougfr at comcast.net (Doug)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 08:19:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bumper Bracket Buffering for a TR6
Message-ID: <A5F95FC5A56642DB89A061A3D3A7457E@DOUG>

The P.O. of my TR6 used electric tape between the brackets and the sheetmetal
so as not to damage new paint.  I have recently repainted my TR6 and the
bumpers are being re-chromed.
What is the recommended material between the bumper brackets and sheetmetal to
keep the paint from being damaged?

Thanks in advance.

Doug Fraser
Sammamish, WA
1969 TR6 CC25305LO

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Tue May  5 12:37:07 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 11:37:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1240855201.32226.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1240855201.32226.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <21F7192A489645918B893B9DB88C7F84@Gateway1>

I've become smitten with a Stag; can anyone help me understand the good,
bad, and ugly of this car? If I need to rebuild the engine to have a great
car, I'm delighted. But what can I expect to spend on doing that? I've
rebuilt plenty of TR4, 6 and MGB engines - anything I need to know about
this one??
Doesn't look like resale is great, but it looks like a fun car!

Thanks for the help.

Brian

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Tue May  5 12:36:09 2009
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 14:36:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bumper Bracket Buffering for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <A5F95FC5A56642DB89A061A3D3A7457E@DOUG>
References: <A5F95FC5A56642DB89A061A3D3A7457E@DOUG>
Message-ID: <8CB9BC77DDA417E-1018-C57@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>

 Mine had a small, thin rubber circle that was hidden by the bracket but was there.? Or maybe I added it.? Not sure which is the case but in either case it is there now.


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Doug <dougfr at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 5 May 2009 11:19 am
Subject: [TR] Bumper Bracket Buffering for a TR6










The P.O. of my TR6 used electric tape between the brackets and the sheetmetal
so as not to damage new paint.  I have recently repainted my TR6 and the
bumpers are being re-chromed.
What is the recommended material between the bumper brackets and sheetmetal to
keep the paint from being damaged?

Thanks in advance.

Doug Fraser
Sammamish, WA
1969 TR6 CC25305LO
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com

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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue May  5 06:44:49 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 08:44:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?
Message-ID: <3DD70CE886CE42A0B1F9501C571E4A34@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Hi,

Is it correct to use the same size tubing
between the Clutch MC and it's slave cylinder
as that of the brake line (I think that's 1/8" tubing, right?).
Is there any benefit to using a larger diameter tubing for this line?  If so,
I'll need to obtain fittings for the larger tube (from where?).

Thanks, Paul Dorsey

From don at napanet.net  Sat May  2 18:57:03 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 02 May 2009 17:57:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] BAT TR4
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090502175337.034eaf60@pop.napanet.net>

Interesting TR4 racer on BAT.  I love that website, always has odd and/or 
interesting cars.

http://bringatrailer.com/2009/05/01/surrey-top-racer-1964-triumph-tr4/



____________________________________


Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1962 MGA Mk II
2001 Miata BRG
1973 MGB GT
1962 TR4 (seeking) 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue May  5 13:05:13 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 12:05:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bumper Bracket Buffering for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <8CB9BC77DDA417E-1018-C57@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>
References: <A5F95FC5A56642DB89A061A3D3A7457E@DOUG>
	<8CB9BC77DDA417E-1018-C57@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905051205h36fc062cy80c2141026e1dfa4@mail.gmail.com>

I have used a 'gasket' cut from an old inner tube to protect the paintwork
from the bumper hardware.

I always keep an inner tube on hand for non-fuel gaskets & buffers of all
sorts.  If you do not have one your favorite tire shop may have an old one
they would give you.

From don at napanet.net  Sun May  3 21:27:11 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sun, 03 May 2009 20:27:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] BAT TR4
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090503202451.03400b88@pop.napanet.net>

Interesting TR4 racer on BAT.  I love that website, always has odd and/or 
interesting cars.

http://bringatrailer.com/2009/05/01/surrey-top-racer-1964-triumph-tr4/



____________________________________


Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1962 MGA Mk II
2001 Miata BRG
1973 MGB GT
1962 TR4 (seeking) 

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Sun May  3 11:24:20 2009
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 18:24:20 +0100
Subject: [TR] Tr2 glovebox
Message-ID: <B2B17C82-C558-4940-9CB1-0E28C4AB6C2C@tcd.ie>

Hi one and all- could I ask a favour? I am trying to figure out how  
all my new glovebox bits fit, I can find NO photos of a dash with the  
glovebox door open. I figured that the glovebox itself fits into the  
recess in the back of the dash board, but after that I'm stumped!!.  
The little bracket at the back of the box for example, what does it  
mount to?, and the bar and its bits for holding the g/b door once  
open, how does this mount. I am hoping a good photo or two might do  
the job (a picture paints a thousand words and all that). Anyone got  
there camera to hand and their door open??  :-)
John

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Mon May  4 04:45:14 2009
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 11:45:14 +0100
Subject: [TR] Tr2 glovebox
Message-ID: <0E993B49-1A29-4F24-80A0-B553F0D54C65@tcd.ie>

Hi one and all- could I ask a favour? I am trying to figure out how  
all my new glovebox bits fit, I can find NO photos of a dash with the  
glovebox door open. I figured that the glovebox itself fits into the  
recess in the back of the dash board, but after that I'm stumped!!.  
The little bracket at the back of the box for example, what does it  
mount to?, and the bar and its bits for holding the g/b door once  
open, how does this mount. I am hoping a good photo or two might do  
the job (a picture paints a thousand words and all that). Anyone got  
there camera to hand and their door open??  :-)
John

From aribert at c3net.net  Tue May  5 09:10:16 2009
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 11:10:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] OT  Carfax access?
Message-ID: <655509a85c4cef63023ceb82dd679061.squirrel@server6.glis.net>

If anyone has a Carfax or similar service and would be willing to run a
VIN for me, please contact me off-line - I have found a beater pick-up
(relative and relatively rust free) out of state and wish to find out a
bit more before I proceed with an eBay bid.  TIA

From don at napanet.net  Sun May  3 21:51:47 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sun, 03 May 2009 20:51:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Racer TR4
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090503205130.03413d80@pop.napanet.net>

Interesting TR4 racer on BAT.  I love that website, always has odd and/or 
interesting cars.

http://bringatrailer.com/2009/05/01/surrey-top-racer-1964-triumph-tr4/



____________________________________


Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1962 MGA Mk II
2001 Miata BRG
1973 MGB GT
1962 TR4 (seeking) 

From elliottr at rmi.net  Sun May  3 17:35:26 2009
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Sun, 03 May 2009 18:35:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 250 Speedometer Cable
Message-ID: <49FE2A3E.6080101@rmi.net>

Hi

Is there an easy way to replace the speedometer cable on a TR250 with 
overdrive? I think the overdrive is a J type  - the cable is on the 
passenger side.

I have the car jacked up, but I can't get my hand on the transmission 
end of the cable to unscrew it.  It is right above the transmission 
mount, which is right above the exhaust pipe.  I can see it, but that is 
about all. 

It looks like removing the transmission cover is the way to go, but I 
wondered if some one has come up with a trick.  I was going to try to 
just  replace the inside cable, but the new one I got is a different 
length so I will need to return it before I can try that.

Thanks,

Roger

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue May  5 14:07:20 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 13:07:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR 250 Speedometer Cable
In-Reply-To: <49FE2A3E.6080101@rmi.net>
References: <49FE2A3E.6080101@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905051307g43add3efy265eda28b53dcfc1@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 3, 2009 at 4:35 PM, Roger Elliott <elliottr at rmi.net> wrote:

> It looks like removing the transmission cover is the way to go, but I
> wondered if some one has come up with a trick.


I cut a hole in the (cardboard) tunnel just there as a hedge against the day
when this would be necessary.  Hole is closed up with a sheet metal plate
secured with screws.

Also made holes for solenoid replacement and adding oil to the gearbox.

Geo

From mmoore8425 at aol.com  Tue May  5 14:19:04 2009
From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 13:19:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?
In-Reply-To: <3DD70CE886CE42A0B1F9501C571E4A34@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <3DD70CE886CE42A0B1F9501C571E4A34@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <0EF07BD9-5BA6-4F53-8293-4C1BCA380B39@aol.com>

Paul, my rule of thumb is to trust the factory and you won't go wrong.
There is no advantage to going to larger tubing as there is very  
little flow.
Mike Moore

On May 5, 2009, at 5:44 AM, dorpaul wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Is it correct to use the same size tubing
> between the Clutch MC and it's slave cylinder
> as that of the brake line (I think that's 1/8" tubing, right?).
> Is there any benefit to using a larger diameter tubing for this  
> line?  If so,
> I'll need to obtain fittings for the larger tube (from where?).
>
> Thanks, Paul Dorsey
> _____

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue May  5 14:48:43 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 20:48:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
In-Reply-To: <302119844.5928061241556286030.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <935501377.5930151241556523690.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

When the car was new the engine was a nightmare and that there was a cottage industry of installing Buick/Rover V8.

I am told that now Stag enthusiasts have learned all the tricks and fixes and that a properly-rebuilt Stag motor is now OK.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at roadrunner.com> wrote:

> From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at roadrunner.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2009 1:37:07 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
>
> I've become smitten with a Stag; can anyone help me understand the
> good,
> bad, and ugly of this car? If I need to rebuild the engine to have a
> great
> car, I'm delighted. But what can I expect to spend on doing that?
> I've
> rebuilt plenty of TR4, 6 and MGB engines - anything I need to know
> about
> this one??
> Doesn't look like resale is great, but it looks like a fun car!
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue May  5 15:04:12 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 17:04:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bumper Bracket Buffering for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <8CB9BC77DDA417E-1018-C57@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>
References: <A5F95FC5A56642DB89A061A3D3A7457E@DOUG>
	<8CB9BC77DDA417E-1018-C57@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A00A9CC.1080600@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>

Aaron....I had them too. They're like a real thin rubber washer.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

acekraut11 at aol.com wrote:
>  Mine had a small, thin rubber circle that was hidden by the bracket but was there.? Or maybe I added it.? Not sure which is the case but in either case it is there now.
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Doug <dougfr at comcast.net>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tue, 5 May 2009 11:19 am
> Subject: [TR] Bumper Bracket Buffering for a TR6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The P.O. of my TR6 used electric tape between the brackets and the sheetmetal
> so as not to damage new paint.  I have recently repainted my TR6 and the
> bumpers are being re-chromed.
> What is the recommended material between the bumper brackets and sheetmetal to
> keep the paint from being damaged?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Doug Fraser
> Sammamish, WA
> 1969 TR6 CC25305LO
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue May  5 15:11:12 2009
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 17:11:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
Message-ID: <cbe.3d9f803e.37320570@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/5/2009 1:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
pethier at comcast.net writes:

From:  "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at roadrunner.com>
> To:  triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2009 1:37:07 PM GMT  -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] How about a  Stag?
>
> I've become smitten with a Stag; can anyone help me  understand the
> good,
> bad, and ugly of this car? If I need to  rebuild the engine to have a
> great
> car, I'm delighted. But  what can I expect to spend on doing that?
> I've
> rebuilt plenty  of TR4, 6 and MGB engines - anything I need to know
> about
> this  one??
> Doesn't look like resale is great, but it looks like a fun  car!
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
>  Brian



Brian,
I restored a Mk! Stag and drove it for several years.
I bought all my parts from Tony Fox at HRS in Park Royal,London. Tont is  
one of the Stag's heroes in y book. he has retired I understand. If you buy 
it,  you will need to establish a UK source of good parts. I bought  my  
parts from Tony, andperhaps paid more than if I had bought at Rimmer, but I KNEW 
 they would work.
My Stag was  great car, and I miss it a lot. The only bad thing that  ever 
happened tome was that I did blow a head gasket, the failure was caused by  
the idiot ion Az who used Devcon to repair the heads and sold it to me as 
being  'rewelded" Withmy engine rebuilt and a Kenlowe fan and a new 
radiator,it was a  joy,.
 
 
 
.Michael P.  Moore

From jimbpps at cox.net  Tue May  5 15:12:30 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 14:12:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Raceway Pictures
In-Reply-To: <BLU147-W25919CF0A8013BBBBD7749DD680@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU147-W25919CF0A8013BBBBD7749DD680@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1783E4D1020144D498FA8295DDF23189@JimofficePC>

Thanks David, those are great!!

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647  

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Gunn
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 8:54 AM
To: triumph list
Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Raceway Pictures

Hi - I have posted the pictures I took this last weekend at the British
Extravaganza at Buttonwillow Raceway, CA.



http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157617578136451/detail/



There is one video.  I apologize for the picture quality, but the sound is kinda
neat.



BTW, there are lots of Spits!!



The next batch of pictures will be from the British Car Show in Woodland, CA on
May 17th.



Enjoy,



David Gunn

1954 TR2 Coupe

TS3388L

Chico, CA

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. goes with you.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_
Mobile1_052009
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jimbpps at cox.net  Tue May  5 15:23:01 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 14:23:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
In-Reply-To: <cbe.3d9f803e.37320570@aol.com>
References: <cbe.3d9f803e.37320570@aol.com>
Message-ID: <477297251D4E44CC8EB77DEFE7781656@JimofficePC>

You've got to watch out for those idiots in AZ!!

Everyone knows you should use JB Weld!

Jim 
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 2:11 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] How about a Stag?

In a message dated 5/5/2009 1:49:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
pethier at comcast.net writes:

From:  Brian Induni 
> To:  triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 5, 2009 1:37:07 PM GMT  -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] How about a  Stag?
>
> I've become smitten with a Stag; can anyone help me  understand the 
> good, bad, and ugly of this car? If I need to  rebuild the engine to 
> have a great car, I'm delighted. But  what can I expect to spend on 
> doing that?
> I've
> rebuilt plenty  of TR4, 6 and MGB engines - anything I need to know 
> about this  one??
> Doesn't look like resale is great, but it looks like a fun  car!
> 
> Thanks for the help.
> 
>  Brian



Brian,
I restored a Mk! Stag and drove it for several years.
I bought all my parts from Tony Fox at HRS in Park Royal,London. Tont is one of
the Stag's heroes in y book. he has retired I understand. If you buy it,  you
will need to establish a UK source of good parts. I bought  my parts from Tony,
andperhaps paid more than if I had bought at Rimmer, but I KNEW  they would
work.
My Stag was  great car, and I miss it a lot. The only bad thing that  ever
happened tome was that I did blow a head gasket, the failure was caused by the
idiot ion Az who used Devcon to repair the heads and sold it to me as being
'rewelded" Withmy engine rebuilt and a Kenlowe fan and a new radiator,it was a
joy,.
 
.Michael P.  Moore

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue May  5 16:02:24 2009
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 18:02:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
Message-ID: <c66.50e93ce9.37321170@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/5/2009 2:23:36 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jimbpps at cox.net writes:

You've  got to watch out for those idiots in AZ!!

Everyone knows you should use  JB Weld!

Jim 
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250  CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647  



oh yes, and I paid to have the crankshaft hardened. When I tested it,  it 
was Rc20 (very soft). When I asked, he said he sprayed the hardness on frm a  
spray can!


Mike Moore 

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Tue May  5 16:22:53 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 17:22:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
References: <c66.50e93ce9.37321170@aol.com>
Message-ID: <89C6216656C542CEB1F4AAF49B703F0A@KARL>

Viagra in a spray can ??



> oh yes, and I paid to have the crankshaft hardened. When I tested it,  it
> was Rc20 (very soft). When I asked, he said he sprayed the hardness on frm 
> a
> spray can!
>
>
> Mike Moore

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Tue May  5 19:42:04 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 18:42:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?
References: <mailman.122.1241557464.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006801c9cdeb$dc09acc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

I recently used the stock pipe piece from TRF PN 148816.
It required minimal reshaping and worked just fine.
Regards,
Bob


 > 
> On May 5, 2009, at 5:44 AM, dorpaul wrote:
> 
> > Hi,
> >
> > Is it correct to use the same size tubing
> > between the Clutch MC and it's slave cylinder
> > as that of the brake line (I think that's 1/8" tubing, right?).
> > Is there any benefit to using a larger diameter tubing for this  
> > line?  If so,
> > I'll need to obtain fittings for the larger tube (from where?).
> >
> > Thanks, Paul Dorsey
> > _____
> 




E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.12320
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Mon May  4 14:08:17 2009
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 16:08:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] OT - RockAuto.com vs. Partsfactor.com??
In-Reply-To: <BAY114-DS4ED417FDC357BF62F76D4C16D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY114-DS4ED417FDC357BF62F76D4C16D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0905041308g6f7775fcj98ac6456a87ffefb@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Peter, I noticed at Bosal's website that Bosal listed 3 cats for the
Toyota: the CA cat, and 2 other cats for non-CA applications.  I wonder what
the build difference is from a non-CA vs. CA cat?
Ted

On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 8:09 AM, Peter Arakelian <peterara at msn.com> wrote:

> If you are in CA, be aware that there are new Air Resources Board
> requirements
> for catalytic converters that are different from other 49 states.
>
> Peter
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as triumph66 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Tue May  5 17:29:48 2009
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 18:29:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR 250 Speedometer Cable
In-Reply-To: <49FE2A3E.6080101@rmi.net>
References: <49FE2A3E.6080101@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <BLU112-W13FE1FA58301F58EC2C8FFB9690@phx.gbl>

> It looks like removing the transmission cover is the way to go, but I
> wondered if some one has come up with a trick. I was going to try to
> just replace the inside cable, but the new one I got is a different
> length so I will need to return it before I can try that.
>


Roger-


On my TR4 I finally settled for removing the transmission cover as I never
found enough room to get the cable nut threaded back on.  Another thing which
bit me, and might possibly be something you are experiencing:  the replacement
cable was ever so slightly larger than the original, so it did not want to
stab into the transmission drive.  If you tried to thread a new inner cable in
but found it about 1" too long that might be your trouble.



Randy

64 TR4

59 TR3A



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
l_WhatsNew1_052009

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Tue May  5 18:10:25 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 17:10:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bumper Bracket Buffering for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <4A00A9CC.1080600@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
References: <A5F95FC5A56642DB89A061A3D3A7457E@DOUG>
	<8CB9BC77DDA417E-1018-C57@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>
	<4A00A9CC.1080600@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10905051710k73fb88efmea1fd9cf761f37d5@mail.gmail.com>

I cut a piece of innertube to fit. Did its job and not noticeable.
John Howard

On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 2:04 PM, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> wrote:

> Aaron....I had them too. They're like a real thin rubber washer.
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> acekraut11 at aol.com wrote:
>
>>  Mine had a small, thin rubber circle that was hidden by the bracket but
>> was there.? Or maybe I added it.? Not sure which is the case but in either
>> case it is there now.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Doug <dougfr at comcast.net>
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Tue, 5 May 2009 11:19 am
>> Subject: [TR] Bumper Bracket Buffering for a TR6
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The P.O. of my TR6 used electric tape between the brackets and the
>> sheetmetal
>> so as not to damage new paint.  I have recently repainted my TR6 and the
>> bumpers are being re-chromed.
>> What is the recommended material between the bumper brackets and
>> sheetmetal to
>> keep the paint from being damaged?
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Doug Fraser
>> Sammamish, WA
>> 1969 TR6 CC25305LO
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue May  5 18:29:32 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 17:29:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
In-Reply-To: <89C6216656C542CEB1F4AAF49B703F0A@KARL>
References: <c66.50e93ce9.37321170@aol.com>
	<89C6216656C542CEB1F4AAF49B703F0A@KARL>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905051729s78297d40q7ea5af918334303f@mail.gmail.com>

The problem with us AZ TR owners is that the 95% of us that are idiots give
the other 5% a bad name.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Tue May  5 18:56:13 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 18:56:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
In-Reply-To: <21F7192A489645918B893B9DB88C7F84@Gateway1>
References: <mailman.3.1240855201.32226.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<21F7192A489645918B893B9DB88C7F84@Gateway1>
Message-ID: <4A00E02D.6070809@tscusa.org>

Brian Induni wrote:
> I've become smitten with a Stag; can anyone help me understand the good,
> bad, and ugly of this car? If I need to rebuild the engine to have a great
> car, I'm delighted. But what can I expect to spend on doing that? I've
> rebuilt plenty of TR4, 6 and MGB engines - anything I need to know about
> this one??
> Doesn't look like resale is great, but it looks like a fun car!
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Brian
>
>   
Well Brian, prepare to be absolutely delighted!

You need to contact the Triumph Stag Club USA BEFORE you buy a Stag.
We can get you lined up with the right Stag, or at least teach you 
everything you need to know when looking for a restoration base.

We also know all there is to know about making the Triumph V8 100% 
reliable, where rebuilders make mistakes, how to build for more 
performance, and what parts are garbage that must be avoided at all cost.

go to http://www.triumphstagclubusa.org, have a look around.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From mmoore8425 at aol.com  Tue May  5 19:09:49 2009
From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 18:09:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
In-Reply-To: <4A00E02D.6070809@tscusa.org>
References: <mailman.3.1240855201.32226.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<21F7192A489645918B893B9DB88C7F84@Gateway1>
	<4A00E02D.6070809@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <7CD360D4-A8EB-49F8-9E50-F554E8AB02C9@aol.com>

Brian, That is good advice. I chose to belong to the SOC as most of my  
Stag contacts developed in the UK, but Glennhas done an excellent job of
developing a knowledgeable Stag community here in the US
Mike Moore


May 5, 2009, at 5:56 PM, Glenn A. Merrell wrote:

> Brian Induni wrote:
>> I've become smitten with a Stag; can anyone help me understand the  
>> good,
>> bad, and ugly of this car? If I need to rebuild the engine to have  
>> a great
>> car, I'm delighted. But what can I expect to spend on doing that?  
>> I've
>> rebuilt plenty of TR4, 6 and MGB engines - anything I need to know  
>> about
>> this one??
>> Doesn't look like resale is great, but it looks like a fun car!
>>
>> Thanks for the help.
>>
>> Brian
>>
>>
> Well Brian, prepare to be absolutely delighted!
>
> You need to contact the Triumph Stag Club USA BEFORE you buy a Stag.
> We can get you lined up with the right Stag, or at least teach you  
> everything you need to know when looking for a restoration base.
>
> We also know all there is to know about making the Triumph V8 100%  
> reliable, where rebuilders make mistakes, how to build for more  
> performance, and what parts are garbage that must be avoided at all  
> cost.
>
> go to http://www.triumphstagclubusa.org, have a look around.
>
> -- 
> Glenn A. Merrell
> Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
> The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the  
> paint, dead bugs on the windshield!
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue May  5 20:37:34 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 22:37:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil pressure with synthetic oil
Message-ID: <4A00BFAE.9109.53FCA50@localhost>

I know this has been discussed before, but what the heck, if it was 
interesting once it might be interesting again.

Several weeks ago I changed the oil in the GT6, put in Mobil-1 15w50 
I think it was.  I had used it prior to this oil change, something 
labelled "extended life" or similar, but this wasn't labelled like 
that.  It used to be that with thin oil I'd hear valve clatter, but I 
don't hear that at the moment.  What I am getting though is the oil 
pressure light (and brake light) flickering when at idle after I've 
been on the highway for a while.  Given a chance for the oil to cool 
the flickering goes away again.  The temp gauge is acting quite 
normal.  This behavior started immediately with the new oil and it 
isn't due to gas collecting in the sump.

It is somewhat disconcerting and I'm tempted to drain it.

Comments welcome.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May  5 20:52:30 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 22:52:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
Message-ID: <bd3.40a07cd3.3732556e@cs.com>

Folks, a friend with a TR4A is asking the question, when did they switch 
from the fly-off to the push-to-release style handle?  He is asking because 
two cars with which he is familiar each have different styles and the 
confusing part is the later commission number has the fly-off and the earlier one 
has the push-to-release style.

My exposure to TR4A's is very limited.

TIA

Dave

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue May  5 20:54:13 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 19:54:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] How about a Stag?
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905051729s78297d40q7ea5af918334303f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c66.50e93ce9.37321170@aol.com><89C6216656C542CEB1F4AAF49B703F0A@KARL>
	<7bb181af0905051729s78297d40q7ea5af918334303f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <89DD53513958462DB6E0B0D04616F936@joepentiumnew>

So George, where do you and I fit into that equation?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 5:30 PM
To: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] How about a Stag?

The problem with us AZ TR owners is that the 95% of us that are idiots give
the other 5% a bad name.
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue May  5 21:25:15 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 23:25:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - TR250 project
Message-ID: <BAY123-W22FE3AED7BBEFE2CF3EB14BA660@phx.gbl>

Made a milestone last night. I finally finished the new frame Sunday to the
point that I can start test fitting drive train and suspension components.
With a bunch of help from  my son Jason and friend Bob we pulled the engine
out of the TR6. Not an easy task with things crumpled in around it. Got it out
and set it on the floor. Pulled the plugs and held my breath as I put a wrench
to the crank bolt and turned......YES, IT'S FREE! This was a huge concern
because I could not tell how much the cross member crushed into the crank
snout. Looks like it touched but did not rally drive into it. With the engine
out it's pretty impressive to see how much the frame got mangled. I'll have to
put some pictures together some day. Hoping to have it running for TRF Summer
Party.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage1_052009

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue May  5 22:31:43 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 22:31:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?
In-Reply-To: <006801c9cdeb$dc09acc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <200905060431.n464VpTp003301@nlpi025.prodigy.net>

Paul,
Just replaced it too, I don't know what size stock is but what was on there
was 3/16" and seemed like a perfect fit.  You can buy a piece of steel brake
line at your local FLAPS for about $6.00, add you fittings, bend and flare
it ... Bob's your uncle!
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 7:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?

I recently used the stock pipe piece from TRF PN 148816.
It required minimal reshaping and worked just fine.
Regards,
Bob


 > 
> On May 5, 2009, at 5:44 AM, dorpaul wrote:
> 
> > Hi,
> >
> > Is it correct to use the same size tubing between the Clutch MC and 
> > it's slave cylinder as that of the brake line (I think that's 1/8" 
> > tubing, right?).
> > Is there any benefit to using a larger diameter tubing for this 
> > line?  If so, I'll need to obtain fittings for the larger tube (from 
> > where?).
> >
> > Thanks, Paul Dorsey
> > _____
> 




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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May  6 00:26:55 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed,  6 May 2009 00:26:55 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] Team.Net status
Message-ID: <20090506062655.7F9932E077@bradakis.com>

Yes, there have been problems with the Team.Net mailing
lists, related web pages, FTP stuff and such.  And it ain't
over yet.  It should all be fine by next week, though.

The current ISP providing Team.Net connectivity along with
several other domains and network related services is Qwest.
Saturday, May 2nd, they cut off my network access.  They have
been recieving complaints about "malicious activity" from one
of my servers.  It has happened before.  The first time I
actually spent many hours on the phone over a period of
several days and found out the nature of the "malicious
activity."

Someone too lazy or too stupid to click on the 'unsubscribe'
link for one of the mailing lists was flagging all incoming
Team.Net emails as spam.  Once I finally managed to penetrate
deep into the Qwest support to find someone with more than a
single digit IQ, it took me just a few seconds to remove the
braindead A-hole from the lists to which they subscribed.

It happened again a while back, again I took the time and effort
to finally get to the root of the problem and removed the whining
piece of human debris from the appropriate list.

This time I've had enough.  It is so frustrating to have to
go through their entire little debugging script *every time*
I talk to a new person about it:


Them:  What operating system are you running?

Me:  Unix, FreeBSD 6.2

Them:  No, I mean are you running Vista, XP or Windows 98?

Me:  Like I said, I'm running Unix, FreeBSD 6.2.  I am NOT
     running Windows, just like I told all the other ...



You know, a lot of people who just use computers as a basic
appliance would not understand the details of that conversation,
they have no need to.  But tech support people working for a
major company like Qwest?  How do people that incompetent get
through the first job interview?  Do they have anyone on their
staff who can even *spell* Unix??

At any rate, the problem that Qwest claims I have is still
not resolved, they will most likely once again cut off my
network access soon.  As I said, I've had enough.

On Friday, May 8th I will be changing from Qwest to XMission,
located here in Salt Lake, for Team.Net ISP service.  The
changeover will result in Team.Net services being unavailable
for a few days.  IP addresses, nameserver data, etc. will take
a day or two or so to percolate through the network.

So expect sporadic service over the next few days, but it should
all settle down by early next week.

Thank you for your patience.

mjb.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed May  6 02:04:51 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 08:04:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Team.Net status
In-Reply-To: <20090506062655.7F9932E077@bradakis.com>
References: <20090506062655.7F9932E077@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W5EF536080D45268005F57E5660@phx.gbl>

Unix!  That's the hacker language isn't it?  Can't you just penetrate their
system and configure it the way you want it?

Best regards,
Tom





_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed May  6 03:32:00 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 05:32:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil pressure with synthetic oil
References: <4A00BFAE.9109.53FCA50@localhost>
Message-ID: <000e01c9ce2d$8218bfc0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

A 15w-50 oil is not a thin oil.  Getting such a low oil pressure at idle 
with an oil of such viscosity indicates a pretty substantial inability to 
maintain pressure.   Be it from well worn bearings being unable to sustain 
pressure to a well worn oil pump unable to build pressure.

That said, oil pressure at idle doesn't have to be much.  The old rule of 
thumb of 10 psi for each 1,000 rpm is a reasonable rule of thumb.  Such a 
low oil pressure at idle will send many a sending unit into an illuminating 
frenzy.

Why is Mobil 1 in particular creating this scenario?  I don't know.  There 
are lab standards for those viscosity numbers, and I have read articles 
showing that many manufacturers do not well adhere to those standards. 
Mobil may be doing a poor job of this with Mobil1, but I don't know that as 
a statement of fact.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 10:37 PM
Subject: [TR] oil pressure with synthetic oil


>I know this has been discussed before, but what the heck, if it was
> interesting once it might be interesting again.
>
> Several weeks ago I changed the oil in the GT6, put in Mobil-1 15w50
> I think it was.  I had used it prior to this oil change, something
> labelled "extended life" or similar, but this wasn't labelled like
> that.  It used to be that with thin oil I'd hear valve clatter, but I
> don't hear that at the moment.  What I am getting though is the oil
> pressure light (and brake light) flickering when at idle after I've
> been on the highway for a while.  Given a chance for the oil to cool
> the flickering goes away again.  The temp gauge is acting quite
> normal.  This behavior started immediately with the new oil and it
> isn't due to gas collecting in the sump.
>
> It is somewhat disconcerting and I'm tempted to drain it.
>
> Comments welcome.
>
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed May  6 06:57:41 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 08:57:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil pressure with synthetic oil
Message-ID: <cb3.542ba993.3732e345@aol.com>

Jim,

Maybe you're seeing a combination of factors.......Mobil One is pretty good
 stuff (I use the 15W-50 in my TR6 with good results) and a little pricey
to  drain out without examining another possibility.  Assuming that your
engine  is reasonably "tight" and that you may have been using a
non-synthetic
20W-50 previously, is it possible that you're seeing the oil light
flickering because your oil pressure switch may be weak and is responding
inaccurately to a lower viscosity oil at idle?  If that idea doesn't play  out
and
you can't explain the flickering light any other way, then I would go  back
to
the previous oil selection (because it works well for you) and use the
Mobil One in your lawn tractor!

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U


In a message dated 5/5/2009 10:38:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

This  behavior started immediately with the new oil and it
isn't due to gas  collecting in the sump.

**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
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From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed May  6 10:11:17 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 09:11:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Team.Net status
In-Reply-To: <20090506062655.7F9932E077@bradakis.com>
References: <20090506062655.7F9932E077@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905060911l6b80e594n82fcf14bb4f83768@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 11:26 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

>
> The current ISP providing Team.Net connectivity along with
> several other domains and network related services is Qwest.
>
Say no more.


> ...How do people that incompetent get
> through the first job interview?  Do they have anyone on their
> staff who can even *spell* Unix??


I recall a Dilbert where he had to explain to the Boss that their
programmers needed to be 'Unix' not 'Eunuchs'.  Boss responded by cancelling
the message he had left for the corporate nurse.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  6 11:20:05 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:20:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] need a contact in santa fe
References: <20090220083803.AUWYH.1606249.root@ispmxfep14-z01>
Message-ID: <000c01c9ce6e$e7a4ee40$84a7a8c0@ranteer.local>

are there any listers in santa fe?

please contact me off list  sumton at sbcglobal.net

thanks

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed May  6 11:46:27 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:46:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 question
References: <bd3.40a07cd3.3732556e@cs.com>
Message-ID: <356FAFA9714C4C83B3A24230F76702AB@yourpd3mh0abgs>

can someone email a photo of the original interior showing the welded 
stripes on the door panel on a tr4 from a book or something?
moss is claiming their interior with sewn lines on the door is "just like 
the originals" and doesn't want to pay freight back.  about $30.
my originality guide shows welded strips. and newcombe says welded.
Best,
Ray

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed May  6 11:48:52 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 10:48:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Team.Net status
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905060911l6b80e594n82fcf14bb4f83768@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090506062655.7F9932E077@bradakis.com>
	<7bb181af0905060911l6b80e594n82fcf14bb4f83768@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3549EA1975504EAAA86E0C57D1A00C1A@joepentiumnew>

Qwest was previously called U.S. West.  They changed their name because
people kept referring to them as "U.S. Worst".

Say no more!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 9:11 AM
To: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] Team.Net status

On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 11:26 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

>
> The current ISP providing Team.Net connectivity along with
> several other domains and network related services is Qwest.
>
Say no more.


> ...How do people that incompetent get
> through the first job interview?  Do they have anyone on their
> staff who can even *spell* Unix??


I recall a Dilbert where he had to explain to the Boss that their
programmers needed to be 'Unix' not 'Eunuchs'.  Boss responded by cancelling
the message he had left for the corporate nurse.
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You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

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From don at napanet.net  Wed May  6 12:34:01 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net)
Date: Wed,  6 May 2009 11:34:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .
In-Reply-To: <cb3.542ba993.3732e345@aol.com>
References: <cb3.542ba993.3732e345@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1241634841.4a01d8191ec8e@webmail.napanet.net>

On the subject of oil, does anyone know anything about the removal of zinc from
modern motor oil?  It's being done to protect catalytic converters.  There's an
additive product that is supposed to compensate for this.  Supposedly, the zinc
in the oil protects flat tappets (as old British cars have).  Or you can use a
premium diesel grade motor oil which still has the zinc in it.

http://www.zddplus.com/

Don Scott
1962 MGA 
2001 Miata SE BRG
1962 TR4 (seeking)

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed May  6 12:32:14 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:32:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] Team.Net status
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1241632801.17525.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1241632801.17525.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0F7BF0FC-77F3-43F8-B1AC-4AEB5C9166CD@telus.net>

Hey guys and gals

Lets leave Mark in peace for now but when the new system is up and  
running a strong expression of appreciation and a bit of cash to pay  
the costs involved would I'm sure be appreciated.

Where would we all be without Mark and his effort and dedication???



On 6-May-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Subject: [TR] Team.Net status
>
>
> Yes, there have been problems with the Team.Net mailing
> lists, related web pages, FTP stuff and such.  And it ain't
> over yet.  It should all be fine by next week, though.

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May  6 12:46:48 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:46:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .
In-Reply-To: <1241634841.4a01d8191ec8e@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <20090506184705.9686C18764C@autox.team.net>

Don,
Yes, sufficient ZDDP has been removed from most all modern oils to protect
the catalytic converters.  I did some checking just last week as I was ready
to fire up my newly re-built motor and found that Valvoline VR-1 20w-50
Racing oil has the needed levels if you don't want to go the additive route.
The target concentration that you are looking for is 1200ppm.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don at napanet.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 12:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .

On the subject of oil, does anyone know anything about the removal of zinc
from modern motor oil?  It's being done to protect catalytic converters.
There's an additive product that is supposed to compensate for this.
Supposedly, the zinc in the oil protects flat tappets (as old British cars
have).  Or you can use a premium diesel grade motor oil which still has the
zinc in it.

http://www.zddplus.com/

Don Scott
1962 MGA
2001 Miata SE BRG
1962 TR4 (seeking)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From jimbpps at cox.net  Wed May  6 12:55:08 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 11:55:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .
In-Reply-To: <1241634841.4a01d8191ec8e@webmail.napanet.net>
References: <cb3.542ba993.3732e345@aol.com>
	<1241634841.4a01d8191ec8e@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <BB2307CF75374473AB6C43FB69AA9EB8@JimofficePC>

Don,

Check out this web site:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/flat_tappet_cam_tech/index.html

It explains the whys and wherefores very well and suggests solutions!

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of don at napanet.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 11:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .

On the subject of oil, does anyone know anything about the removal of zinc from
modern motor oil?  It's being done to protect catalytic converters.  There's an
additive product that is supposed to compensate for this.  Supposedly, the zinc
in the oil protects flat tappets (as old British cars have).  Or you can use a
premium diesel grade motor oil which still has the zinc in it.

http://www.zddplus.com/

Don Scott
1962 MGA
2001 Miata SE BRG
1962 TR4 (seeking)
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From chammock at iquest.net  Wed May  6 13:30:40 2009
From: chammock at iquest.net (chammock at iquest.net)
Date: Wed,  6 May 2009 15:30:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel cylinders and shims
Message-ID: <1241638240.4a01e560e6a20@webmail.iquest.net>

Currenlty replacing rear wheel cylinders and the metal locking plates with new
ones from TRF. 9" drum brakes.
Based on the great discussion a few weeks ago on the list, I ptnetd out my
personal archives of how to and was ready to go.

I cannot get the locking plates on the new cylinder. Following the advice on
correct way and order for sure - looking at Randalls and David's great adcvice
and direction- in fact there is no way to get just the two larger platess on
without the distance piece. It would take a LOT of pressure and hammering to
get the pieces on, and I doubt that they could ever be removed if forced on.

After checking the new components, it appears to me that:
1) the locking plates are thicker than original, distance piece about the same.
2) the groove in the wheel cylinder which accomodates the locking plates is
thinner than the ones on the car, perhaps (becasue it is hard to measure with
accuracy due to the convoloted shape of the casting) by 1/32".  NO wonder they
won't fit!

one of the big plates ws hopelessly buggered in removing, but I can reuse the
others. That might help, but perhaps not enough to get them on.

Most importantly, , before I go carefully "adjusting" the castings on sometign
as important as wheel sylinders to get a bit more room, I wanted to see if
anyone else has had this experience.


Is this just my pieces?  If so I'll send them back.  They are suspicioiusly
identical, however.

thanks in advance

Perry Hammock
1960 TR3A

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed May  6 14:52:07 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 15:52:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .
References: <cb3.542ba993.3732e345@aol.com>
	<1241634841.4a01d8191ec8e@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <A015BCB504564FACA397BFCC9707BD30@yourpd3mh0abgs>

i run shell rotella in the diesels, and that oil has reduced zddp from 
earlier formulations as well.
i talked with shell, and they said it was a pollution response for light 
trucks and cars running the oil.  they also said that too much zddp can be 
harmful to flat tappet engines.
sorta like the three bears story.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <don at napanet.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 1:34 PM
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .


> On the subject of oil, does anyone know anything about the removal of zinc 
> from
> modern motor oil?  It's being done to protect catalytic converters. 
> There's an
> additive product that is supposed to compensate for this.  Supposedly, the 
> zinc
> in the oil protects flat tappets (as old British cars have).  Or you can 
> use a
> premium diesel grade motor oil which still has the zinc in it.
>
> http://www.zddplus.com/
>
> Don Scott
> 1962 MGA
> 2001 Miata SE BRG
> 1962 TR4 (seeking)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed May  6 15:20:40 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 16:20:40 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .
Message-ID: <380432383.249049.1241644840165.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>


From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Wed May  6 15:53:09 2009
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 17:53:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel cylinders and shims
In-Reply-To: <1241638240.4a01e560e6a20@webmail.iquest.net>
References: <1241638240.4a01e560e6a20@webmail.iquest.net>
Message-ID: <BAY111-DS45B550FB532DFF5C6D719D6660@phx.gbl>

Perry,
Don't know if this will help but I refitted the rear cylinders on my 4A a 
few weeks ago. My car has a Girling system with 9" drums. My retaining kit 
came from BPNW. The process was a little confusing at first so I documented 
it with some pics here: 
http://computeresources.com/TR4-A/RearBrakes/rear_brakes.htm .
HTH,
Glenn

.
>
> I cannot get the locking plates on the new cylinder. Following the advice 
> on
> correct way and order for sure - looking at Randalls and David's great 
> adcvice
> and direction- in fact there is no way to get just the two larger platess 
> on
> without the distance piece. It would take a LOT of pressure and hammering 
> to
> get the pieces on, and I doubt that they could ever be removed if forced 
> on.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed May  6 16:03:33 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 17:03:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 upholsery
References: <20090506184705.9686C18764C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E78DEDA6500E4C89BD306C7303A0781D@yourpd3mh0abgs>

Hi all,
Just to sort of update you on Moss' upholstery kits and the little 
discussion we have been having...

this side panel kit was part of a $1000+ order, and as many of you know, 
Moss pays shipping on a purchase of that size.

I was pretty disappointed when I got the kit home and discovered it was a 
home-made kit that looked like something someone ran up on his grandmother's 
sewing machine.

I took it back to my distributor, and he said, "No problem Moss will take it 
back."

When he was asked why the kit was being returned, he told Moss that it was 
not like the original side panels in appearance as those had heat-welded 
accents on them.

Moss then claimed theirs was just like the original panels; they claimed the 
TR4's had sewn accent seams from the factory!!

I thought at the time we were dealing with a little good faith 
misunderstanding.

So I began to collect evidence showing Moss how the side panels should look. 
I figured they would be interested in making correct kits.

During yet another conversation - while I listened - the Moss rep put us on 
hold and went to get what he said was an "original book" and it showed the 
seams to be sewn!!

It dawned on me they merely were after the freight costs of returning their 
trash.

But it DID tick me off to have someone lie to your face - well, at least 
into your ear - about what could be demonstrated to be incorrect.

Bottom line:  Be very careful if you order any soft item from Moss.

And, I would recommend you NOT use their panel sets, because they are trash 
Moss is trying to pawn off on folks as original.

They make them in-house, and they look like it.

I have done business in the thousands of dollars on MG T cars (don't start 
on me!!) in the past all the way back to when Al Moss was running the store.

If Al was wrong, he made it right.

The guys using his name, won't.

It appears to me that The Roadster Factory is the best place here in the 
States for correct TR parts.

No doubt they have had problems - all businesses do - but I don't get the 
feeling that no one there really gives a d--- about the correctness of the 
part they are selling.

To all of you who tried to help, my thanks.

I guess I was stupid thinking Moss was trying to help supply the correct 
part.

Best,
Ray

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed May  6 16:01:38 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 18:01:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .
Message-ID: <ce4.5239a47f.373362c2@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/6/2009 5:31:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
spook01 at comcast.net writes:

they  also said that too much zddp can be
harmful to flat tappet  engines.



I seem to recall reading somewhere that this is true.  1200 -  1300 ppm is
the recomended level and that "more is better" is not true when it  comes to
ZDDP.

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221827510x1201399090/aol?redir=http
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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed May  6 16:09:04 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed,  6 May 2009 18:09:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] oil pressure with synthetic oil
Message-ID: <20090506180904.CFW48241@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Chip K. wrote:
> Assuming that your engine is reasonably "tight"

Well, it's always been tight before (as far as I can tell).

> and that you may have been using a non-synthetic 20W-50 previously,

My previous oil was the same, Mobil-1 15(I think)w50, but with an "Extended Life" designation.  The oil pressure light was fine when I drained it.  It's fine now too as long as it hasn't been rinning on the highway in the last 15 minutes or so.

> is it possible that you're seeing the oil light flickering
> because your oil pressure switch may be weak

If so it came with the oil change.  Do coincidences happen in real life?  They don't in murder mysteries.)

> If... then I would go back to the previous oil selection

Which is under consideration, on the agenda for further review, so to speak.

Someone spoke of Valvoline's VR oils.  What is the meaning of the designation "racing"?  Sure, more ZDDP or similar but what about other longevity factors?  Perhaps they assume a race engine won't carry a catalyst (nor does my GT6).  But could it be assumed that a racing engine's oil will be replaced much more frequently than a street engine?  Or always warmed sufficiently before reving above some speed?

Thanks,
Jim Muller

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed May  6 16:14:44 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 18:14:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
References: <bd3.40a07cd3.3732556e@cs.com>
Message-ID: <59E2079A1C7F46749D46858C917FD20A@userb38463fba5>

Dave, I don't think any TR4A ever had a push to release handle fitted 
originally. What does a TR 250 have?
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 10:52 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question


> Folks, a friend with a TR4A is asking the question, when did they switch
> from the fly-off to the push-to-release style handle?  He is asking 
> because
> two cars with which he is familiar each have different styles and the
> confusing part is the later commission number has the fly-off and the 
> earlier one
> has the push-to-release style.
>
> My exposure to TR4A's is very limited.
>
> TIA
>
> Dave

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed May  6 16:21:21 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 22:21:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Team.Net status
In-Reply-To: <20090506062655.7F9932E077@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <344949738.6526921241648481873.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>>Thank you for your patience.

>>mjb.


Patience-smatience.B  Actually, we should be thanking you for your patience.B 
You keep this up for us all.



Which reminds me that I may have missed the annual List call for donations.B 
When is that usually supposed to happen again?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed May  6 17:07:49 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 16:07:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 upholsery
In-Reply-To: <E78DEDA6500E4C89BD306C7303A0781D@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <20090506184705.9686C18764C@autox.team.net>
	<E78DEDA6500E4C89BD306C7303A0781D@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905061607k7d48ac70qb608111c407f0388@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry it didn't work out so well, guess you don't need the pics of mine.

I know a Moss ee regularly monitors this list so if he or anyone at Moss
wants pics of how the factory made them (at least on my '64) I will be happy
to send them along.

As I noted in my other reply -- a TR4A I looked at appeared to be stitched
-- so this may be the picture they were referencing.

I have always had good results with Moss -- both in the quality of their
interiors and in resolving issues when things weren't right.
Geo


On Wed, May 6, 2009 at 3:03 PM, spook01 <spook01 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
> Just to sort of update you on Moss' upholstery kits and the little
> discussion we have been having...

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed May  6 17:11:16 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 19:11:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
Message-ID: <bd3.40b92de0.37337314@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/6/2009 5:14:46 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: 
> Dave, I don't think any TR4A ever had a push to release handle fitted 
> originally. What does a TR 250 have?
> 
Good question.  Perhaps some TR250 owners will respond.

Two theories considered are:
1) US DOT requirements mandated the Push-to-release or
2) this particular TR4A has a transplant from a TR6

Thanks for the response.

Dave

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed May  6 18:23:04 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 20:23:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .
In-Reply-To: <1241634841.4a01d8191ec8e@webmail.napanet.net>
References: <cb3.542ba993.3732e345@aol.com>
	<1241634841.4a01d8191ec8e@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <200905062023.04807.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

> On the subject of oil, does anyone know anything about the removal of zinc
> from modern motor oil?  It's being done to protect catalytic converters. 
> There's an additive product that is supposed to compensate for this. 
> Supposedly, the zinc in the oil protects flat tappets (as old British cars
> have).  Or you can use a premium diesel grade motor oil which still has the
> zinc in it.
>
> http://www.zddplus.com/
>
> Don Scott
> 1962 MGA
> 2001 Miata SE BRG
> 1962 TR4 (seeking)
Don,

Last year I started using Brad Penn 20w50 Racing oil. It is formulated for 
older flat tappet engines. Pricey but piece of mind.

Bob
1958 TR3A
1963 TR4
1972 TR6 (Project)

From jimbpps at cox.net  Wed May  6 18:30:24 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 17:30:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
In-Reply-To: <59E2079A1C7F46749D46858C917FD20A@userb38463fba5>
References: <bd3.40a07cd3.3732556e@cs.com>
	<59E2079A1C7F46749D46858C917FD20A@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <5BE5920593DF4C13B7DD22C1E89FC5A3@JimofficePC>

The TR250 for sure and I believe the TR4A all had push to release parking brake
operating levers. These were mounted on the center of the car between the seats
on the drive shaft tunnel, as opposed to being mounted on the side of the
transmission tunnel as the TR3s were.

HTH,

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 3:15 PM
To: Dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A parking brake question

Dave, I don't think any TR4A ever had a push to release handle fitted
originally. What does a TR 250 have?
JVV
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 10:52 PM
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question


> Folks, a friend with a TR4A is asking the question, when did they 
> switch from the fly-off to the push-to-release style handle?  He is 
> asking because two cars with which he is familiar each have different 
> styles and the confusing part is the later commission number has the 
> fly-off and the earlier one has the push-to-release style.
>
> My exposure to TR4A's is very limited.
>
> TIA
>
> Dave
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed May  6 18:33:50 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 20:33:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
References: <bd3.40a07cd3.3732556e@cs.com>
	<59E2079A1C7F46749D46858C917FD20A@userb38463fba5>
	<5BE5920593DF4C13B7DD22C1E89FC5A3@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <56DBE4D8EE0F440AA3E7433BCEB50550@userb38463fba5>

To release the one on my 4A one only needs to lift it slightly. The button 
is used to set the brake only.
Been that way since 1969 when I bought the car with 25,000 miles
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Bauder" <jimbpps at cox.net>
To: "'Jerry Van Vlack'" <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>; <Dave1massey at cs.com>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:30 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4A parking brake question


> The TR250 for sure and I believe the TR4A all had push to release parking 
> brake
> operating levers. These were mounted on the center of the car between the 
> seats
> on the drive shaft tunnel, as opposed to being mounted on the side of the
> transmission tunnel as the TR3s were.
>
> HTH,
>
> Jim
> Jim Bauder
> 480-309-9525
> '68 TR250 CD47L
> Scottsdale, AZ

From spamiam at comcast.net  Wed May  6 18:45:11 2009
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 20:45:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
Message-ID: <FA49A4D9A3504234BB80B8EFD10CF725@i7quad>

Bill,

I had heard the same thing:  Valvoline VR1 20-50 Racing oil has the high
levels of zinc.  But it seems that the VR1 Racing has become more of a
sub-brand than a totally specific name.  The version with the high zinc is the
one emblazoned with "FOR OFF ROAD USE" on the label.  The other complies with
the low zinc formula.

I will be using the ZDDPplus additive.  Then I can use whatever oil I prefer.
The additive is not cheap, however....

-Tony

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed May  6 18:51:24 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 20:51:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
Message-ID: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>

According to TRA's Restoration & Concours guide, the 4A was the last of
the Triumph sports to have the fly off emergency brake.  All 4As and prior
had it , all after had the more mundane "pull and push button to release"

I like the fly off because I never worry about the car being driven off by
joy riders - rather doubt they would figure out how to release the brake!

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana


**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221827510x1201399090/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh)

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed May  6 19:13:59 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 21:13:59 EDT
Subject: [TR] Regarding oil . . .
Message-ID: <c8d.440ccc60.37338fd7@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/6/2009 2:21:52 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
don at napanet.net writes:

On the  subject of oil, does anyone know anything about the removal of zinc
 from
modern motor oil?  It's being done to protect catalytic  converters.




_______________________________________________

Mark Macy has an  excellent article on this.  Go to his
_www.macysgarage.com_ (http://www.macysgarage.com)  and click on "tech  talk"

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana



**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
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:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh)

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Wed May  6 20:45:08 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Wed, 06 May 2009 22:45:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
In-Reply-To: <FA49A4D9A3504234BB80B8EFD10CF725@i7quad>
References: <FA49A4D9A3504234BB80B8EFD10CF725@i7quad>
Message-ID: <0KJ900ER16B9A22N@vms173003.mailsrvcs.net>

At 08:45 PM 5/6/2009, Anthony Rhodes wrote:
>Bill,
>
>I had heard the same thing:  Valvoline VR1 20-50 Racing oil has the high
>levels of zinc.  But it seems that the VR1 Racing has become more of a
>sub-brand than a totally specific name.  The version with the high zinc is the
>one emblazoned with "FOR OFF ROAD USE" on the label.  The other complies with
>the low zinc formula.

I had a long discussion w/Isky this afternoon about this very 
subject.  They **strongly** recommend Brad Penn Break-in Oil 
(unobtainium in my neck of the woods), followed by Penzoil "GTP" and 
Valvoline Racing Oil (says NOT STREET LEGAL on the bottle).  This is 
*not* the same as Valvoline VR-1, which contains much less ZDDP (Isky 
says to avoid the VR-1 stuff).  They said that if you use one of the 
three oils above, there is no need for additional ZDDP (anybody want 
to buy my stock of EOS?).  If you can't find the above oils (NAPA 
stocks Penzoil and Valvoline), then add EOS or the ZDDP additive 
Moss, et al. sell.

jim


>I will be using the ZDDPplus additive.  Then I can use whatever oil I prefer.
>The additive is not cheap, however....
>
>-Tony
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as jhassall at blacksburg.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
96% finished, 90% to go 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed May  6 22:53:34 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 04:53:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 upholsery
In-Reply-To: <E78DEDA6500E4C89BD306C7303A0781D@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <20090506184705.9686C18764C@autox.team.net>
	<E78DEDA6500E4C89BD306C7303A0781D@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W169A6B657FDEBF880A712BE5670@phx.gbl>

I have had too many problems with lack of originality to order from Moss.
Once I order a tube to go from the fluid resevour to my clutch master cylinder
and they sent me a piece of copper tubing for a refrigerator.  On the other
hand I have never received a part from TRF that wasn't very close to the
original.

Although, I have never had Moss object to the return of an item.

Best regards,
Tom





_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009

From tom628 at verizon.net  Thu May  7 00:01:31 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 02:01:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1EB9309E9B5D440F9D2192F47FA93020@Toms>

I always liked the fly-off brake on my TR4, and often wonder if it's 
possible to convert the TR6 to that system.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Loumetelko at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A parking brake question


> According to TRA's Restoration & Concours guide, the 4A was the last of
> the Triumph sports to have the fly off emergency brake.  All 4As and prior
> had it , all after had the more mundane "pull and push button to release"
>
> I like the fly off because I never worry about the car being driven off by
> joy riders - rather doubt they would figure out how to release the brake!
>
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
>
>
> **************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
> $449!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221827510x1201399090/aol?redir=http
> :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663377%3B36502382%3Bh)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May  7 05:39:37 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:39:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
Message-ID: <ccc.5112f308.37342279@aol.com>

This highly controversial topic has raised its head again.
I use Valvoline VR-1 20/50 Racing not the "not street legal" stuff.   Check
this out.
http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf
A couple of points for all to consider when making this decision.   First,
a racing oil that is "not street legal" has a very short sump life and is
intended to be used and dumped with a high frequency.  The reason is; it
does a very good job for a very short (by comparison) time.
Amounts of ZDDP in excess of 1200 - 1300 ppm are not good for your  motor.
I cannot at the moment put my finger on it but do recall reading,  and
filing, an article about ZDDP in oil when it was introduced as the miracle
anti
wear additive in the 70's.  Motor damage (not catalytic converter)
resulted from excessively high levels and the additive gained a black eye.
As a result of this article I chose Valvoline VR-1 20/50 Racing because of
its availability and ZDDP levels in the 1200 - 1300 ppm range.
I will also add that the only people I know who have lost a cam lobe have
been practicing the witches brew theory of oil additives.  I am not that
good at chemistry as this really hot girl sat next to me in class, so I leave
the decisions to the chemists at Ashland.  Apparently they were more
interested in chemistry than what I was interested in.

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May  7 05:45:38 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 07:45:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
In-Reply-To: <5BE5920593DF4C13B7DD22C1E89FC5A3@JimofficePC>
References: <bd3.40a07cd3.3732556e@cs.com>
	<59E2079A1C7F46749D46858C917FD20A@userb38463fba5>
	<5BE5920593DF4C13B7DD22C1E89FC5A3@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <8CB9D20798F6A8D-E70-201@webmail-dx05.sysops.aol.com>

The TR250 for sure and I believe the TR4A all had push to release parking brake
operating levers. These were mounted on the center of the car between the seats
on the drive shaft tunnel, as opposed to being mounted on the side of the
transmission tunnel as the TR3s were.



 


 


 

The one TR4A that I test drove had a fly-off brake and my friend has one, too.? That means they made them at some point (unless one could reverse the way the button works, which I doubt).? Maybe it came off a saloon or something.

Dave
________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com

From spamiam at comcast.net  Thu May  7 05:47:36 2009
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:47:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
References: <ccc.5112f308.37342279@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EBD4A7458C424EC9A84B18E1154DA063@i7quad>

David,

I was under the impression that ALL street legal oils that have the current
oil quality designation (SM now?) have the low level of zinc, including the
street-legal VR1 Racing. I hope I am wrong since I have a bunch of it.

Only a few years ago, the VR1 Racing oil seemed to be quite good, but then it
did have reasonable amounts of zinc.  I ran out of my old stock of it last
year, and I have the regular new type, plus a few doses of ZDDPplus sitting on
my shelf ready to go for this year's oil changes.

-Tony
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: DLylis at aol.com
  To: jhassall at blacksburg.net ; spamiam at comcast.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 7:39 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Regarding Oil


  This highly controversial topic has raised its head again.
  I use Valvoline VR-1 20/50 Racing not the "not street legal" stuff.  Check
this out.
  http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf
  A couple of points for all to consider when making this decision.  First, a
racing oil that is "not street legal" has a very short sump life and is
intended to be used and dumped with a high frequency.  The reason is; it does
a very good job for a very short (by comparison) time.
  Amounts of ZDDP in excess of 1200 - 1300 ppm are not good for your motor.  I
cannot at the moment put my finger on it but do recall reading, and filing, an
article about ZDDP in oil when it was introduced as the miracle anti wear
additive in the 70's.  Motor damage (not catalytic converter) resulted from
excessively high levels and the additive gained a black eye.
  As a result of this article I chose Valvoline VR-1 20/50 Racing because of
its availability and ZDDP levels in the 1200 - 1300 ppm range.
  I will also add that the only people I know who have lost a cam lobe have
been practicing the witches brew theory of oil additives.  I am not that good
at chemistry as this really hot girl sat next to me in class, so I leave the
decisions to the chemists at Ashland.  Apparently they were more interested in
chemistry than what I was interested in.

  David Lylis
  69 TR6 CC26160L
  60 TR3A TS74461LO


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  Big savings on Dell's most popular laptops. Now starting at $449!

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May  7 05:49:08 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 07:49:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
In-Reply-To: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CB9D20F6F80A49-E70-216@webmail-dx05.sysops.aol.com>

 Thanks, Lou.? That was my inclination but one never knows when the changes take place without checking.

Dave



According to TRA's Restoration & Concours guide, the 4A was the last of
the Triumph sports to have the fly off emergency brake.  All 4As and prior
had it , all after had the more mundane "pull and push button to release"




 


________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu May  7 05:51:29 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:51:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?
References: <mailman.122.1241557464.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<006801c9cdeb$dc09acc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <8A8AF871E3274F9BBF77BE77382642C3@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Bob, thanks!
Do you know what type fittings it has?
    I have a different mc than the original (it's County brand), but, I lost 
the adapters it uses for this particular mc line.
                      Thanks,          Paul

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 9:42 PM
Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?


>I recently used the stock pipe piece from TRF PN 148816.
> It required minimal reshaping and worked just fine.
> Regards,
> Bob
>
>
> >
>> On May 5, 2009, at 5:44 AM, dorpaul wrote:
>>
>> > Hi,
>> >
>> > Is it correct to use the same size tubing
>> > between the Clutch MC and it's slave cylinder
>> > as that of the brake line (I think that's 1/8" tubing, right?).
>> > Is there any benefit to using a larger diameter tubing for this
>> > line?  If so,
>> > I'll need to obtain fittings for the larger tube (from where?).
>> >
>> > Thanks, Paul Dorsey
>> > _____
>>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.12320
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu May  7 11:02:57 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 10:02:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?
References: <mailman.122.1241557464.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<006801c9cdeb$dc09acc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<8A8AF871E3274F9BBF77BE77382642C3@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <00ce01c9cf35$abd9e510$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Paul, Sorry, I don't know fitting type, I guess I was lucky my car was
stock.
It matched fine on the adapter to the flex line as well.
Someone on the list will probably knows the "stock" fitting size.
Regards, Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:51 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?


> Bob, thanks!
> Do you know what type fittings it has?
>     I have a different mc than the original (it's County brand), but, I
lost
> the adapters it uses for this particular mc line.
>                       Thanks,          Paul
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 9:42 PM
> Subject: [TR] thickness of clutch mc to slave line?
>
>
> >I recently used the stock pipe piece from TRF PN 148816.
> > It required minimal reshaping and worked just fine.
> > Regards,
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > >
> >> On May 5, 2009, at 5:44 AM, dorpaul wrote:
> >>
> >> > Hi,
> >> >
> >> > Is it correct to use the same size tubing
> >> > between the Clutch MC and it's slave cylinder
> >> > as that of the brake line (I think that's 1/8" tubing, right?).
> >> > Is there any benefit to using a larger diameter tubing for this
> >> > line?  If so,
> >> > I'll need to obtain fittings for the larger tube (from where?).
> >> >
> >> > Thanks, Paul Dorsey
> >> > _____
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> > Database version: 5.12320
> > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> > http://www.vtr.org
> >
> >
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> >
> > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.12330
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.12330
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May  7 08:04:10 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 10:04:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
Message-ID: <cd0.3f5298f3.3734445a@aol.com>

The last case of VR-1 racing that I bought was relabled specifically for
flat tappet and pushrod motors.

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Thu May  7 08:32:16 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 16:32:16 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
	<8CB9D20F6F80A49-E70-216@webmail-dx05.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <D5F4A57493EC42D297A3CD5EF6683EB3@Study>

My latish com 77785 TR4Ahas a fly off handbrake as has every other TR4A I 
have had any knowledge of. I think the fly off was also popular among pre 
some WW2 sports cars. I had a 1937 Aston Martin thus fitted and also ISTR 
the Mid 1930's SS 80 and SS100.
My 2 centimes worth of useless and irrevelant bandwidth,

David Brister. 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 21062 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

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From jimbpps at cox.net  Thu May  7 09:17:02 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 08:17:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
In-Reply-To: <8CB9D20F6F80A49-E70-216@webmail-dx05.sysops.aol.com>
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
	<8CB9D20F6F80A49-E70-216@webmail-dx05.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <50D58FE6EC5F445EB5F60A86EFE1EDF1@JimofficePC>

I stand corrected! Apparently the TR250 was the 1st to have the
'pull-and-push-to-release' hand brake! 

Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 4:49 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A parking brake question

 Thanks, Lou.? That was my inclination but one never knows when the changes take
place without checking.

Dave



According to TRA's Restoration & Concours guide, the 4A was the last of the
Triumph sports to have the fly off emergency brake.  All 4As and prior had it ,
all after had the more mundane "pull and push button to release"




 


________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Thu May  7 10:10:43 2009
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 09:10:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] upholstery, ZDDP, etc...
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FDDECBF@kb1.mossmotors.com>

OK, guys I'm here and I have my flame suit on...

Upholstery:  I have forwarded the concerns about welded vs. sewn seams
to my tech department.  On page A9 of the TR4 catalog we do say the
seams are sewn not heat sealed.  However in the body of the catalog and
on the web we do not - I will have that corrected.  Grandmother's sewing
machine?  Give me a break.  If the kit was not to your satisfaction Moss
should have taken it back no question - that is our policy, unless there
were some other issues involved with the condition of the kit that made
it unusable or it was purchased a very long time ago.  Also, if you
purchased through a distributor, they would have to give you credit and
we would credit them when they returned it.

ZDDP:  Moss carries oil with sufficient ZDDP concentrations and as well
as an additive to raise the concentration of ZDDP in the oil you are
currently using.  On the Moss web site there are links to extensive
articles on ZDDP from the part numbers 220-810 and 220-805.  Diesel oil
may have higher concentrations, but also has a lot more detergent.  It's
not just the zinc, but also the phosphates.  This was done to save
catalytic converters, so these additives and oils can only be used on
non-cat cars or you will clog your cat.

Brake tube:  "tube to go from the fluid resevour (sic) to my clutch
master cylinder and they sent me a piece of copper tubing for a
refrigerator"   What was done about it?  Did we take it back and send
you correct? The pipes on our shelf may look like copper tubing used in
a refrigerator, but they are not; they are the correct length and have
appropriate fittings.  They do need to be bent by the end user, however.

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 Daily Driver

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu May  7 10:21:09 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 10:21:09 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1031.1241651497.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1031.1241651497.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <22C46284-5F09-4E15-A4C2-80F90A6C63C2@telus.net>

I've had 4 different TR4As and all have had the push the button to  
release handle.



On 6-May-09, at 5:11 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
>
>
> In a message dated 5/6/2009 5:14:46 PM Central Daylight Time,
> jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes:
>> Dave, I don't think any TR4A ever had a push to release handle fitted
>> originally. What does a TR 250 have?
>>
> Good question.  Perhaps some TR250 owners will respond.
>
> Two theories considered are:
> 1) US DOT requirements mandated the Push-to-release or
> 2) this particular TR4A has a transplant from a TR6
>
> Thanks for the response.
>
> Dave

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu May  7 10:47:10 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 10:47:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1415.1241704989.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1415.1241704989.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8257B380-3A42-4DAA-A408-FC5B7B87BBD2@telus.net>

Ok, I had a look at Piggot:  " The TR4A's handbrake system... was  
quite new..... "A fly-off action as on the TR4, was initially  
retained, but deleted for the TR5, 250/6."

My memory must be getting weak.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May  7 11:23:07 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 13:23:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
Message-ID: <bcc.4e6ffb94.373472fb@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/7/2009 11:24:50 AM Central Daylight Time, 
jimbpps at cox.net writes: 
> I stand corrected! Apparently the TR250 was the 1st to have the
> 'pull-and-push-to-release' hand brake! 
> 

I wouldn't put a nail in that coffin just yet.  That might have been the 
plan but Triumph has a reputation of making the change when stock is depleted 
which may have happened a few cars before or after the TR4A/TR250(5) change 
over.

But we may never know with absolute certainty.

Dave

From mmoore8425 at aol.com  Thu May  7 11:31:26 2009
From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 10:31:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] upholstery, ZDDP, etc...
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FDDECBF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FDDECBF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <CF8CC0FA-AE72-423D-95C6-49306BF9D350@aol.com>

Pete is a friend to all TR owners and is a real TR enthusiast. Pete  
is  well respected
by the TR community  and  by those who know him.I think Pete is also  
the technical Lizard at Moss/Goleta.
Best, Mike Moore

On May 7, 2009, at 9:10 AM, Arakelian, Peter wrote:

> OK, guys I'm here and I have my flame suit on...
>
> Upholstery:  I have forwarded the concerns about welded vs. sewn seams
> to my tech department.  On page A9 of the TR4 catalog we do say the
> seams are sewn not heat sealed.  However in the body of the catalog  
> and
> on the web we do not - I will have that corrected.  Grandmother's  
> sewing
> machine?  Give me a break.  If the kit was not to your satisfaction  
> Moss
> should have taken it back no question - that is our policy, unless  
> there
> were some other issues involved with the condition of the kit that  
> made
> it unusable or it was purchased a very long time ago.  Also, if you
> purchased through a distributor, they would have to give you credit  
> and
> we would credit them when they returned it.
>
> ZDDP:  Moss carries oil with sufficient ZDDP concentrations and as  
> well
> as an additive to raise the concentration of ZDDP in the oil you are
> currently using.  On the Moss web site there are links to extensive
> articles on ZDDP from the part numbers 220-810 and 220-805.  Diesel  
> oil
> may have higher concentrations, but also has a lot more detergent.   
> It's
> not just the zinc, but also the phosphates.  This was done to save
> catalytic converters, so these additives and oils can only be used on
> non-cat cars or you will clog your cat.
>
> Brake tube:  "tube to go from the fluid resevour (sic) to my clutch
> master cylinder and they sent me a piece of copper tubing for a
> refrigerator"   What was done about it?  Did we take it back and send
> you correct? The pipes on our shelf may look like copper tubing used  
> in
> a refrigerator, but they are not; they are the correct length and have
> appropriate fittings.  They do need to be bent by the end user,  
> however.
>
> Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 Daily Driver
> ____________________________________

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu May  7 11:57:01 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Thu,  7 May 2009 13:57:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
Message-ID: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

David L wrote:
> a racing oil that is "not street legal" has a very short
> sump life and is intended to be used and dumped with a high
> frequency...  The reason is; it does a very good job for a
> very short (by comparison) time.  Amounts of ZDDP in excess
> of 1200 - 1300 ppm are not good for your  motor...  As a
> result of this article I chose Valvoline VR-1 20/50 Racing
> because of its availability and ZDDP levels in the 1200 -
> 1300 ppm range.

This raises a few questions, if you please.  Can we assume that street-legal VR1 does have a long sump life even though the "not street legal" does not?  That seems to be your implication.

Secondly, if the "not street legal" stuff is "not street legal" because of its ZDDP content, how can the street-legal VR1 stuff still contain ZDDP too?

Thanks,
Jim Muller

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu May  7 12:00:33 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 14:00:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] upholstery, ZDDP, etc...
In-Reply-To: <CF8CC0FA-AE72-423D-95C6-49306BF9D350@aol.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FDDECBF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
	<CF8CC0FA-AE72-423D-95C6-49306BF9D350@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CB9D54D9B89E6D-1180-1895@MBLK-M14.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Moore <mmoore8425 at aol.com>









Pete is a friend to all TR owners and is a real TR enthusiast. Pete is  well respected?

by the TR community  and  by those who know him.I think Pete is also the technical Lizard at Moss/Goleta. 

==AM==
I've met Peter on several occasions and chatted with him many other times. I consider him a friend...but not a "Lizard"!

Wizard, possibly.... :-)


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu May  7 12:37:21 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 11:37:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
Message-ID: <453077.26786.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I've taken to using SG rated oil because it still has the zinc in it. I
get it at Autozone for $3.99 per quart. It is in the section for motorcycle
oils and is often hard to get because they only have a couple of quarts on the
shelf.
     So far so good.

     Bill Brewer
     Tehachapi, CA

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May  7 13:47:23 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 15:47:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
Message-ID: <bec.3b877b8b.373494cb@aol.com>

I think this topic has gone slightly off track.  There are plenty of  oils
out there that have 1200 ppm ZDDP and do not advertise an off road
restriction.  I am not able to find this "off road" valvoline stuff at my
distributor (NAPA) any longer.  I have never been able to understand why  the
oil
said "off road" in the first place, and did not say "do not use in a car
with
a catalytic converter"!  I have not seen the Brad Penn oils but can  someone
tell me if they warn against using in a car with a catalytic  converter?
How about the Moss Classic Car stuff?
If anyone has bought a catalytic converter lately ($$), I would think there
 is a tad of product liability.  My point being, in all this research I
have  not found one posting anywhere in which someone bitches about using the
oil and  it cost them dearly because their converter failed.
Could this be the first product that the general public has used with all
due awareness and common sense?
If so I think we should mark the calendar with ZDDP Day and have an annual
celebration and day off from work!
Whiskey for my men!!

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May  7 13:56:12 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 15:56:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] upholstery, ZDDP, etc...
Message-ID: <d1b.3ec105a2.373496dc@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/7/2009 1:07:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes:

Diesel  oil
may have higher concentrations, but also has a lot more  detergent.  It's
not just the zinc, but also the phosphates.


Peter,
I am assuming that Zinc has become the buzzword for Zinc/Phosphates and
that it is not the zinc alone that does the job.
Thanks.
Do these high ZDDP oils carry a warning not to use in a cat converter  car?

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Thu May  7 16:17:58 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 10:17:58 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR4A Handbrake.....
Message-ID: <17245BB7761849C6BD7960B5EC0C2EF4@DRESANPC>

Hi, am restoring an ex-Canadian TR4A that was first registered over  here on
13 FEB 1968, all other evidence points to it being a '67 model. This car has a
"conventional" "pull up and press the button to release handbrake". The
Chassis number is listed as 5CT50520L. Hope this may help. ...Trev.....1967
TR4A

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu May  7 16:20:39 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 18:20:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F9B71E6C38EB4E6C83FCB72E07CED3CC@userb38463fba5>

I don't think the fly off brake would impede a theft. A simple pull on the 
handle would have them on their way or my case if I didn't use 2 hands to 
set the brake it was pretty much worthless. Not enough leverage unlike the 
TR4's and 3's which easily have twice the length and you're pulling back 
rather than up in an awkward position.
The TR6 system allows a good yank on the handle and no need to push the 
button to lock in place.
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Loumetelko at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A parking brake question


> According to TRA's Restoration & Concours guide, the 4A was the last of
> the Triumph sports to have the fly off emergency brake.  All 4As and prior
> had it , all after had the more mundane "pull and push button to release"
>
> I like the fly off because I never worry about the car being driven off by
> joy riders - rather doubt they would figure out how to release the brake!
>
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu May  7 17:15:44 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 18:15:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
	<F9B71E6C38EB4E6C83FCB72E07CED3CC@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <2351E4A5E49C4F1EA34EA63F46D226FF@yourpd3mh0abgs>

buy a boot.  you can carry it around in the trunk.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
To: <Loumetelko at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A parking brake question


>I don't think the fly off brake would impede a theft. A simple pull on the 
>handle would have them on their way or my case if I didn't use 2 hands to 
>set the brake it was pretty much worthless. Not enough leverage unlike the 
>TR4's and 3's which easily have twice the length and you're pulling back 
>rather than up in an awkward position.
> The TR6 system allows a good yank on the handle and no need to push the 
> button to lock in place.
> JVV
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <Loumetelko at aol.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
>
>
>> According to TRA's Restoration & Concours guide, the 4A was the last of
>> the Triumph sports to have the fly off emergency brake.  All 4As and 
>> prior
>> had it , all after had the more mundane "pull and push button to release"
>>
>> I like the fly off because I never worry about the car being driven off 
>> by
>> joy riders - rather doubt they would figure out how to release the brake!
>>
>> Lou Metelko
>> Auburn, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu May  7 17:24:30 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 18:24:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] upholstery, ZDDP, etc...
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FDDECBF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <AAEFAD01EC4347B3AF7FC4F2048A4F38@yourpd3mh0abgs>

Peter and Beto,

I thank you for stepping up and taking care of this problem. I have 
forwarded your note to my distributor, and he will take care of it.  I must 
say that I ordered off your web site, which may have occasioned the problem.
The kit is in the original packing and was delivered last week.

Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 11:10 AM
Subject: [TR] upholstery, ZDDP, etc...


> OK, guys I'm here and I have my flame suit on...
>
> Upholstery:  I have forwarded the concerns about welded vs. sewn seams
> to my tech department.  On page A9 of the TR4 catalog we do say the
> seams are sewn not heat sealed.  However in the body of the catalog and
> on the web we do not - I will have that corrected.   If the kit was not to 
> your satisfaction Moss
> should have taken it back no question - that is our policy, unless there
> were some other issues involved with the condition of the kit that made
> it unusable or it was purchased a very long time ago.  Also, if you 
> purchased through a distributor, they would have to give you credit and
> we would credit them when they returned it.
>
>> Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 Daily Driver
>
Hello,

        We advertise them as original and they are not so we will definitely 
take them back for a full refund. Shipping will also be refunded in full. I 
was told they were purchased through one of our distributors. Have the 
distributor return them to us and they will get a refund for the part and 
shipping. If you have any questions please feel free to contact me.

        Have a great day

Beto Razo
MOSS MOTORS Retail sales
razob at mossmotors.com
1-800-667-7872 ext 3131 _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Thu May  7 21:17:19 2009
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 23:17:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A Handbrake.....
Message-ID: <c48.33ec7cf1.3734fe3f@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/7/2009 6:18:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz writes:

Hi, am  restoring an ex-Canadian TR4A that was first registered over  here
on
13 FEB 1968, all other evidence points to it being a '67 model. This car
has a
"conventional" "pull up and press the button to release handbrake".  The
Chassis number is listed as 5CT50520L. Hope this may help.  ...Trev.....1967
TR4A

==AM==
I'm confused, because that number you quote points to a 1965 model...an
early TR4A solid rear axle car. The TR4A series started with CT50001 or
CTC50001  (CTC were the more common IRS cars). Also, the initial "5" is
something
often  physically added to the commission number plate by Canadian
authorities to indicate a model year.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/)

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/)

**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Fri May  8 05:39:11 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 07:39:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
References: <FA49A4D9A3504234BB80B8EFD10CF725@i7quad>
Message-ID: <BBD18F8CCD564DC894947F66D76E837B@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I wonder if the Valvoline VR-1 oil carries "FOR OFF-ROAD USE ONLY"  BECAUSE 
it has the zinc levels harmful to catylitic converters?  Otherwise, kids 
would be using this "racing oil" in their souped up new Neons, etc.

Thanks, Paul

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>
To: "Triumphs List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <Wbeech at flash.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Regarding Oil


> Bill,
>
> I had heard the same thing:  Valvoline VR1 20-50 Racing oil has the high
> levels of zinc.  But it seems that the VR1 Racing has become more of a
> sub-brand than a totally specific name.  The version with the high zinc is 
> the
> one emblazoned with "FOR OFF ROAD USE" on the label.  The other complies 
> with
> the low zinc formula.
>
> I will be using the ZDDPplus additive.  Then I can use whatever oil I 
> prefer.
> The additive is not cheap, however....
>
> -Tony
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May  8 06:04:44 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:04:44 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
Message-ID: <c28.5628b524.373579dc@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/7/2009 5:20:54 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: 
> I don't think the fly off brake would impede a theft. A simple pull on 
> the 
> handle would have them on their way or my case if I didn't use 2 hands to 
> set the brake it was pretty much worthless.

Interesting.  My TR6 handbrake works just dandy.  A moderate, one handed 
tug will set the brake well enough to hold it on all but the most severe 
incline.

My TR8 is another story.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May  8 06:06:11 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:06:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A parking brake question
Message-ID: <c52.4e079ce0.37357a33@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/7/2009 6:16:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
spook01 at comcast.net writes: 
> buy a boot.  you can carry it around in the trunk.
> 

These days the most effective deterrent is the left most medal.

Dave

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Fri May  8 06:35:51 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:35:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3B rear motor mount
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
	<F9B71E6C38EB4E6C83FCB72E07CED3CC@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <3A8C1EB1E4BF4004894DAE1483947C6B@Edscomputer>

List,

What method did the factory use to accomodate the longer transmission in the 
TR3B? Was the bracket moved on the frame? Was the bracket slotted? Was the 
motor mount slotted? Other?

Thanks,

Ed Woods 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May  8 08:22:36 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 07:22:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3B rear motor mount
In-Reply-To: <3A8C1EB1E4BF4004894DAE1483947C6B@Edscomputer>
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
	<F9B71E6C38EB4E6C83FCB72E07CED3CC@userb38463fba5>
	<3A8C1EB1E4BF4004894DAE1483947C6B@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905080722x1c44bfb0t90ba6610f297ec40@mail.gmail.com>

I was (blissfully) unaware there was a difference in length other than
possibly a small difference in the thickness of the bell-housing flange.

I'll be interested in knowing as the spare gearbox on have on the shelf for
my TR3A is from a TR4.

On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 5:35 AM, Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:

> List,
>
> What method did the factory use to accomodate the longer transmission in
> the TR3B? Was the bracket moved on the frame? Was the bracket slotted? Was
> the motor mount slotted? Other?

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Fri May  8 08:23:47 2009
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 07:23:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Shout out
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FDDEEBA@kb1.mossmotors.com>

A shout out to all my friends...

Thanks...
Peter

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  8 08:31:33 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 09:31:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3B rear motor mount
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com><F9B71E6C38EB4E6C83FCB72E07CED3CC@userb38463fba5><3A8C1EB1E4BF4004894DAE1483947C6B@Edscomputer>
	<7bb181af0905080722x1c44bfb0t90ba6610f297ec40@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001d01c9cfe9$b67636e0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>

i'm going to go out on a limb here, as i am certainly not "Mr. Triumph"

i believe all TR cars the tranny, OD or otherwise, is a straight swap.

the tr6 has a different shifter, but they are interchangeable.

no different lengths


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
To: "TR List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 9:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B rear motor mount


>I was (blissfully) unaware there was a difference in length other than
> possibly a small difference in the thickness of the bell-housing flange.
>
> I'll be interested in knowing as the spare gearbox on have on the shelf 
> for
> my TR3A is from a TR4.
>
> On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 5:35 AM, Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> List,
>>
>> What method did the factory use to accomodate the longer transmission in
>> the TR3B? Was the bracket moved on the frame? Was the bracket slotted? 
>> Was
>> the motor mount slotted? Other?

From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri May  8 08:39:49 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 09:39:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3B rear motor mount
In-Reply-To: <001d01c9cfe9$b67636e0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
	<F9B71E6C38EB4E6C83FCB72E07CED3CC@userb38463fba5>
	<3A8C1EB1E4BF4004894DAE1483947C6B@Edscomputer>
	<7bb181af0905080722x1c44bfb0t90ba6610f297ec40@mail.gmail.com>
	<001d01c9cfe9$b67636e0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <354a1780905080739q35b5ab9bv605d5c79c5d0cbb7@mail.gmail.com>

The earlier, non-syncro 1st gear boxes, are about 3/4" shorter than the
TR3B-TR6 boxes. That is what is behind Ed's question.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL



Fri, May 8, 2009 at 9:31 AM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> i'm going to go out on a limb here, as i am certainly not "Mr. Triumph"
>
> i believe all TR cars the tranny, OD or otherwise, is a straight swap.
>
> the tr6 has a different shifter, but they are interchangeable.
>
> no different lengths
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
> To: "TR List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 9:22 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3B rear motor mount
>
>
>  I was (blissfully) unaware there was a difference in length other than
>> possibly a small difference in the thickness of the bell-housing flange.
>>
>> I'll be interested in knowing as the spare gearbox on have on the shelf
>> for
>> my TR3A is from a TR4.
>>
>> On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 5:35 AM, Ed Woods <fogbro1 at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>  List,
>>>
>>> What method did the factory use to accomodate the longer transmission in
>>> the TR3B? Was the bracket moved on the frame? Was the bracket slotted?
>>> Was
>>> the motor mount slotted? Other?
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as emanteno at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May  8 08:55:59 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 07:55:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3B rear motor mount
In-Reply-To: <354a1780905080739q35b5ab9bv605d5c79c5d0cbb7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com>
	<F9B71E6C38EB4E6C83FCB72E07CED3CC@userb38463fba5>
	<3A8C1EB1E4BF4004894DAE1483947C6B@Edscomputer>
	<7bb181af0905080722x1c44bfb0t90ba6610f297ec40@mail.gmail.com>
	<001d01c9cfe9$b67636e0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>
	<354a1780905080739q35b5ab9bv605d5c79c5d0cbb7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905080755t29c1f3fbhf79a6d3c30a3ee8c@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 7:39 AM, Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com> wrote:

> The earlier, non-syncro 1st gear boxes, are about 3/4" shorter than the
> TR3B-TR6 boxes. That is what is behind Ed's question.


Aaahh.  I was thinking the change occurred in the TR6 run but perhaps I was
just recalling the problem you have to accomodate when fitting a J-Tyoe OD
to a car that would have used an A-Type.

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May  8 08:59:03 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:59:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
In-Reply-To: <ccc.5112f308.37342279@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090508145926.628E818767B@autox.team.net>

David,
When you say "...has a very short sump life.." what length of time or mile
are you referring to?  My car is a fair-weather-on-the-weekends driver that
probably won't see more than 2,000 miles in any given year.
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 5:40 AM
To: jhassall at blacksburg.net; spamiam at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Regarding Oil

This highly controversial topic has raised its head again.
I use Valvoline VR-1 20/50 Racing not the "not street legal" stuff.   Check
this out.
http://www.valvoline.com/downloads/2008-003a.pdf
A couple of points for all to consider when making this decision.   First,
a racing oil that is "not street legal" has a very short sump life and is
intended to be used and dumped with a high frequency.  The reason is; it
does a very good job for a very short (by comparison) time.
Amounts of ZDDP in excess of 1200 - 1300 ppm are not good for your  motor.
I cannot at the moment put my finger on it but do recall reading,  and
filing, an article about ZDDP in oil when it was introduced as the miracle
anti wear additive in the 70's.  Motor damage (not catalytic converter)
resulted from excessively high levels and the additive gained a black eye.
As a result of this article I chose Valvoline VR-1 20/50 Racing because of
its availability and ZDDP levels in the 1200 - 1300 ppm range.
I will also add that the only people I know who have lost a cam lobe have
been practicing the witches brew theory of oil additives.  I am not that
good at chemistry as this really hot girl sat next to me in class, so I
leave the decisions to the chemists at Ashland.  Apparently they were more
interested in chemistry than what I was interested in.

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Big savings on Dellbs most popular laptops. Now starting at
$449!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222382499x1201454962/aol?redir=htt
p
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214663472%3B36502367%3Bg)
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From dctr6 at optonline.net  Fri May  8 09:12:45 2009
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 15:12:45 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>

  I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in my TR6.  All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out  until next week.  Any other ideas where to look?  Thanks.
Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH  

From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri May  8 09:23:08 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 10:23:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <354a1780905080823g7bc5f96eh572d4165f095e5ad@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 10:12 AM, <dctr6 at optonline.net> wrote:

>  I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road
> Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in my
> TR6.  All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car
> starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over
> 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in
> Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the
> hill and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any
> faster. I checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found
> nothing. My only theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn
> diaphragm in one carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it
> out  until next week.  Any other ideas where to look?  Thanks.



Something similar happened to a friend on the way to VTR in PA. He had
checked out the car before the trip, including checking the timing. But, he
forgot to re-tighten the distributor clamp bolt, and the timing adjusted
itself on the fly. The further we drove, the harder it was for his car to
climb. Until we found the problem. Hope yours is something simple like this.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May  8 09:26:29 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:26:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <a06240804c629ff3a1e80@[192.168.2.2]>

Fuel starvation, when this happened to me, there was a pinched fuel 
line to blame.  Ran great at low RPMs, put on a load and it would 
actually stall.  You might check anything that could affect fuel 
pressure ...

Good Luck
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Fri May  8 11:07:28 2009
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:07:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <858792729.5536001241802448207.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B  Other than the addition of 3 more
spark plug wires of course. I had similar symptoms in my TR3 recently caused
by the little spring clip on the top plate that keeps that keeps it flat
against the bottom plate in the distributor breaking. Easy enough to check -
if the pointsB plate hasB a lot of wobble, that could be the problem.

BobB B 


----- Original Message -----
From: dctr6 at optonline.net
To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 8:12:45 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted

B B I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road
Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in my
TR6. B All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home. B The car
starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000
RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania a
real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would
barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I checked
for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only
theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one
carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out B until next
week. B Any other ideas where to look? B Thanks.
Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPHB B 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May  8 12:56:10 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 14:56:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <c3e.4a375cbb.3735da4a@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2009 10:16:41 AM Central Daylight Time, 
dctr6 at optonline.net writes: 
>   I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road 
> Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in 
> my TR6.  All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car 
> starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 
> 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in 
> Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and 
> would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I 
> checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. 
> My only theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm 
> in one carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out  until 
> next week.  Any other ideas where to look?  Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH  
> 

Also check the ignition condenser.  Cheap, easy to replace and worth a 
look.

Dave

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri May  8 13:21:26 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 15:21:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <858792729.5536001241802448207.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <4A044DF6.6337.132390F0@localhost>

On 8 May 2009 at 17:07, kinderlehrer at comcast.net wrote:

> Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B  Other than
> the addition of 3 more spark plug wires of course.

Unless I am sadly amiss with my math, the TR6 would have only 2 more 
spark plug wires.  You must thinking of the TR7.



-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri May  8 14:29:13 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 15:29:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <858792729.5536001241802448207.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
	<858792729.5536001241802448207.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W451A70675D9A59AED94AADE1640@phx.gbl>

BobB wrote:

Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B Other than the addition of 3 more
spark plug wires of course.


I'm I missing something or wouldn't this make the TR3? a three cylinder or the
TR6 a seven cylinder?


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
See it moves!




> Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:07:28 +0000
> From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net
> To: dctr6 at optonline.net
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
> Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B Other than the addition of 3
more
> spark plug wires of course. I had similar symptoms in my TR3 recently
caused
> by the little spring clip on the top plate that keeps that keeps it flat
> against the bottom plate in the distributor breaking. Easy enough to check
-
> if the pointsB plate hasB a lot of wobble, that could be the problem.
>
> BobB B
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: dctr6 at optonline.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 8:12:45 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
> B B I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road
> Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in
my
> TR6. B All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home. B The car
> starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over
4000
> RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania
a
> real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would
> barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I
checked
> for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only
> theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one
> carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out B until next
> week. B Any other ideas where to look? B Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPHB B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri May  8 14:40:10 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 16:40:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W451A70675D9A59AED94AADE1640@phx.gbl>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
	<858792729.5536001241802448207.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W451A70675D9A59AED94AADE1640@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000701c9d01d$2e7af990$8b70ecb0$@net>

Boy guys are getting awfully picky...it's a Tr6 with 7 cylinders

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 4:29 PM
To: TR owners List
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted

BobB wrote:

Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B Other than the addition of 3
more
spark plug wires of course.


I'm I missing something or wouldn't this make the TR3? a three cylinder or
the
TR6 a seven cylinder?


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
See it moves!




> Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:07:28 +0000
> From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net
> To: dctr6 at optonline.net
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
> Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B Other than the addition of 3
more
> spark plug wires of course. I had similar symptoms in my TR3 recently
caused
> by the little spring clip on the top plate that keeps that keeps it flat
> against the bottom plate in the distributor breaking. Easy enough to check
-
> if the pointsB plate hasB a lot of wobble, that could be the problem.
>
> BobB B
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: dctr6 at optonline.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 8:12:45 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
> B B I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at
Road
> Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in
my
> TR6. B All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home. B The car
> starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over
4000
> RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in
Pennsylvania
a
> real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would
> barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I
checked
> for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My
only
> theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one
> carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out B until next
> week. B Any other ideas where to look? B Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPHB B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

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From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri May  8 14:42:39 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 16:42:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
	<a06240804c629ff3a1e80@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <681FB05A7BBA452389F5E306D3B52C4B@DCS78M81>

I had it happen on the way back from Rockford in the Stag...a clogged fuel 
filter...an easy fix and easy to check out.
It was great seeing everyone at the Mitty.  We were in a motor home on turn 
9-10, a great weekend.

Tom
60 TR3A
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: <dctr6 at optonline.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted


> Fuel starvation, when this happened to me, there was a pinched fuel line 
> to blame.  Ran great at low RPMs, put on a load and it would actually 
> stall.  You might check anything that could affect fuel pressure ...
>
> Good Luck
> -- 
> "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake 
> it." - Henry Ford
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3
> "Casper"
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Fri May  8 15:22:28 2009
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:22:28 EDT
Subject: [TR] GT6 Headliner
Message-ID: <c15.3be9ece9.3735fc94@aol.com>

All,
Has anyone out there had to replace the headliner in their GT6?  I'm  being 
told that the windshield has to come out to put the new one in.  Fact  or 
fiction?
TIA   
Sam and Carol Clark
Green Country Triumphs
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  8 16:09:32 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 18:09:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <d14.48cfdac4.3736079c@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2009 1:08:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
kinderlehrer at comcast.net writes:

Is the  TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B  Other than the addition of 3  
more
spark plug wires of course.


My TR6 has only two more spark plug wires.  You must have a TR7!  (wink)
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri May  8 16:19:32 2009
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 15:19:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] radiator Thermal switch
Message-ID: <2603A933-A1C0-449A-A0C7-B156F5EB8A35@cox.net>

I had a 3/8" bung put in my radiator when I had it recored.  I have a  
185 degree on thermal switch in it now but would like to replace it  
with a 170 degree on version (I live in Phoenix).  I have a manual on- 
off switch under the dash, but I am lazy!   :-)

Anybody know of a good on-line source for such an item.  None of the  
kids at my local auto parts places can talk to me if the car is not in  
their computer.  :-)

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  8 16:27:51 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 18:27:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <bd7.4ac5128c.37360be7@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2009 11:17:10 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dctr6 at optonline.net writes:

All went  extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car starts 
and idles  fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. 
It just  seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania a 
real chore -  I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would 
barely be doing  55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster.


You seem to be describing two things here.  If you are cranking  the motor 
at 4,000 rpm and going 80 mph at the bottom of the hill, but will be  going 
50 - 60 mph at the top, I assume that you are no longer cranking 4,000  rpm, 
but have dropped to 2,500 - 3,000.  When you crest the hill you can  then 
get back up to 4,000 rpm and go fast again.  Correct?
You are also describing that the car runs fine through all of this.   (I 
think)  When you say it "chokes" are you saying that it breaks down, or  no 
matter how much pedal you give it it slows to the top of the hill, but does  
so without sputtering or misfiring?
If it is the latter, rather than the former, the first thing I would do is  
remove the air cleaner box and have someone floor the throttle.  (Not  
running)  Do not do it with your hand under the bonnet (open the throttle,  that 
is).  Do it as if the car is being driven.  Look in the carb  throats and 
see if the throttle plate goes to a horizontal position.  My  guess is that 
although your foot is telling you you are at full throttle, your  carbs see 
this otherwise. 
I have had this happen with my 69 and did not discover the problem until  
someone stepped on the pedal while I looked.  Advancing the linkage  with my 
hand covered up the issue.
Good luck.   
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Fri May  8 16:29:56 2009
From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 22:29:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <d14.48cfdac4.3736079c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1674052726.5664051241821796991.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

TR6 - TR3 = 3!! Where did you guys go to school!??B 

Geeeeez, that's the last time I try to respond to this list from my iphone
while dodging traffic on the freeway on my way to work.




----- Original Message -----
From: DLylis at aol.com
To: kinderlehrer at comcast.net, dctr6 at optonline.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 3:09:32 PM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted




In a message dated 5/8/2009 1:08:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
kinderlehrer at comcast.net writes:

Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?BB  Other than the addition of 3
more
spark plug wires of course.
My TR6 has only two more spark plug wires.B  You must have a TR7! (wink)

David Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO


A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  8 16:35:53 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 18:35:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <ca2.4bc06e81.37360dc9@aol.com>

See my previous post about oil in which I referenced the hot girl in  
chemistry class.  She was in my math class, too.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May  8 16:49:59 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 15:49:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] radiator Thermal switch
In-Reply-To: <2603A933-A1C0-449A-A0C7-B156F5EB8A35@cox.net>
References: <2603A933-A1C0-449A-A0C7-B156F5EB8A35@cox.net>
Message-ID: <a06240806c62a673a7e5c@[192.168.2.2]>

	http://www.jegs.com

>I had a 3/8" bung put in my radiator when I had it recored.  I have a 
>185 degree on thermal switch in it now but would like to replace it 
>with a 170 degree on version (I live in Phoenix).  I have a manual on-
>off switch under the dash, but I am lazy!   :-)
>
>Anybody know of a good on-line source for such an item.  None of the 
>kids at my local auto parts places can talk to me if the car is not in 
>their computer.  :-)
>
>Thanks
>
>John
>
>John A. Wise
>Glendale, AZ
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri May  8 16:50:28 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 18:50:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <ca2.4bc06e81.37360dc9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A047EF4.20234.13E2EF7A@localhost>

On 8 May 2009 at 18:35, DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> See my previous post about oil in which I referenced the hot girl
> in chemistry class.  She was in my math class, too.

Maybe you should cut back the amount of ZDDP you put in your coffee.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri May  8 16:54:44 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 15:54:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] radiator Thermal switch
In-Reply-To: <2603A933-A1C0-449A-A0C7-B156F5EB8A35@cox.net>
References: <2603A933-A1C0-449A-A0C7-B156F5EB8A35@cox.net>
Message-ID: <DE6F0AE381044C25AC9489F5C8A69425@joepentiumnew>

When I rigged the thermal switch for the fan relay in Tiny Tim, I went to my
local auto supply store and looked through their catalog to find the correct
switch.

Joe.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John A. Wise
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 3:20 PM
To: Triumph car discussion Sports
Subject: [TR] radiator Thermal switch

I had a 3/8" bung put in my radiator when I had it recored.  I have a  
185 degree on thermal switch in it now but would like to replace it  
with a 170 degree on version (I live in Phoenix).  I have a manual on- 
off switch under the dash, but I am lazy!   :-)

Anybody know of a good on-line source for such an item.  None of the  
kids at my local auto parts places can talk to me if the car is not in  
their computer.  :-)

Thanks

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri May  8 17:02:29 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 19:02:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] radiator Thermal switch
References: <2603A933-A1C0-449A-A0C7-B156F5EB8A35@cox.net>
Message-ID: <C416DDE7D00E49A2BCB134AA6E0A8842@DCS78M81>

John, I got mine from JEGS   -  online.
If you have any problems let me know.
Tom

Subject: [TR] radiator Thermal switch


>I had a 3/8" bung put in my radiator when I had it recored.  I have a  
> 185 degree on thermal switch in it now but would like to replace it  
> with a 170 degree on version (I live in Phoenix).  I have a manual on- 
> off switch under the dash, but I am lazy!   :-)
> 
> Anybody know of a good on-line source for such an item.  None of the  
> kids at my local auto parts places can talk to me if the car is not in  
> their computer.  :-)
> 
> Thanks
> 
> John
> 
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
> 
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
> 
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri May  8 17:18:01 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 23:18:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] upholstery, ZDDP, etc...
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FDDECBF@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <82620406.7464041241824681681.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Peter Arakelian wrote:B 
>OK, guys I'm here and I have my flame suit on...

You know, I've been on the List for four or five years now.B  But I've never
related this.



About 7 years ago now, I happened to remember back in 1970 being in my '65 AH
Sprite coming back to Point Mugu Naval Airbase from Ventura Junior College one
night.B  A friend of mine from the base passed me in a very cool TR3A.B  I
think I was still 17, maybe 18 by then, so I tried to catch up.B 



No-no.B  No way.



On a whim, 7 years ago, after that memory, I did a search on the internet to
see what might be available for the car I always wished I could have had.B 
Found one in Osinnee, NY, in a shed with a '49 MGT(D?C?) in pieces, and next
to a couple of Sunbeams.B  Five hundred dollars, no floors, racoon dung
everywhere, ...you get the picture.



Did a search on the internet before I contacted the seller to see if parts
were available.B  Didn't have much hope.



But then I found Moss, TRF, VB, and Clubs galore....B  I have never forgotten
the rush of excitement I felt when I discovered that it wasn't some larcenous
supplier selling parts out of his garage, but instead there were three
reputable dealers with a penchant for customer service.B 



Let's keep our eye on the ball, people.B  I for one haveB gotten a big piece
of a long-time dream thanks to these suppliers.B  ...Well, thanks to them, a
lot of sweat, no end of skinned knuckles, a cranky wife about the replacement
parts, a daughter disgusted with the rusted hulk that for a time dominated the
yard....



Hmmm...come to think of it, why the heck DID I do it??????



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Fri May  8 17:21:18 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 19:21:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <cc0.54a5d677.3736186e@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2009 3:23:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

On 8 May  2009 at 17:07, kinderlehrer at comcast.net wrote:

> Is the TR6  distributor similar to the TR3?B  Other than
> the addition of 3  more spark plug wires of course.

Unless I am sadly amiss with my math,  the TR6 would have only 2 more 
spark plug wires.  You must thinking  of the TR7.
Which as the name implies had a seven cylinder engine.
 
Lou Metelko





-- 

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From banni2001 at comcast.net  Fri May  8 18:11:05 2009
From: banni2001 at comcast.net (Butch Tucker)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 20:11:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <cc0.54a5d677.3736186e@aol.com>
References: <cc0.54a5d677.3736186e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <011501c9d03a$a572bb10$f0583130$@net>

Lou'

My tr7 was a 4 cylinder. Who had an 7 cylinder one?

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 7:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted

In a message dated 5/8/2009 3:23:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

On 8 May  2009 at 17:07, kinderlehrer at comcast.net wrote:

> Is the TR6  distributor similar to the TR3?B  Other than
> the addition of 3  more spark plug wires of course.

Unless I am sadly amiss with my math,  the TR6 would have only 2 more 
spark plug wires.  You must thinking  of the TR7.
Which as the name implies had a seven cylinder engine.
 
Lou Metelko





-- 

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as banni2001 at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri May  8 18:31:42 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 20:31:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Regarding Oil (long, Pt. 1)
Message-ID: <0KJC00HD6PGU5V4P@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>

I sent this last night but it bumped up against the verbosity 
limiter; this is part 1:
>Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 21:23:48 -0400
>To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
>From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] Regarding Oil
>
>At 01:57 PM 5/7/2009, jimmuller at rcn.com wrote:
>>David L wrote:
>> > a racing oil that is "not street legal" has a very short
>> > sump life and is intended to be used and dumped with a high
>> > frequency...  The reason is; it does a very good job for a
>> > very short (by comparison) time.  Amounts of ZDDP in excess
>> > of 1200 - 1300 ppm are not good for your  motor...  As a
>> > result of this article I chose Valvoline VR-1 20/50 Racing
>> > because of its availability and ZDDP levels in the 1200 -
>> > 1300 ppm range.
>>
>>This raises a few questions, if you please.  Can we assume that 
>>street-legal VR1 does have a long sump life even though the "not 
>>street legal" does not?  That seems to be your implication.
>>
>>Secondly, if the "not street legal" stuff is "not street legal" 
>>because of its ZDDP content, how can the street-legal VR1 stuff 
>>still contain ZDDP too?
>
>I posed this question to Valvoline:
>I have a flat tappet engine I'm about to break-in.  Could you pls
>tell  me, between VR-1 30wt and Valvoline Racing Oil ("not street legal")
>20W-50, which has the higher Zn and P content?  It appears from
>the  data sheets that VR-1 does, but that seems contrary to what the cam
>manufacturer says, and to reason, since more Zn would damage
>catalytic converters faster.




--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
96% finished, 90% to go 

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Fri May  8 18:32:26 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 20:32:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Regarding Oil (part 2)
Message-ID: <0KJC00EMEPI2K735@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>

Part 2

>And their answer was:
>This is the real story behind the myths.  With ever increasing limits on
>emissions, automobile manufacturers have tightened emission control
>systems on newer vehicles.  This is one of several factors considered
>when the American Petroleum Institute (API) sets standards for engine
>oil.  The current API standard is "SM," which replaced the previous "SL"
>classification. Because phosphorus can poison a vehicle's emission
>system, the level of zinc is lower for current engine oil.  Because of
>this, many hands-on car enthusiasts and engine experts believe the lower
>levels of zinc in "SM" engine oil is causing excessive wear in older
>style push-rod and flat tappet engines. This is despite the fact that
>all new engine oil classifications are intended to be backward
>compatible, which in turn has resulted in the widely accepted belief
>that modern engine oil is not adequate to protect older engines.
>Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher
>levels of phosphorus in the engine oil where it protects the engine,
>instead of poisoning the catalytic converter.  Valvoline is the only
>brand offering this unique additive across its entire line of passenger
>car engine oils, including SynPower which is the only synthetic offering
>this additive.
>The only exclusion to this would be if you are operating a high
>performance or aggressive cam application, where high Zinc levels may be
>required.  Because of these requirements, there are high-zinc engine
>oils available to meet this need, such as our Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil.
>The VR1 Racing Oil establishes a 75% higher zinc content than SM engine
>oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and
>street-legal applications. This product will protect older style
>push-rod and flat tappet engines and carries an oil change interval
>recommendation of 3 month/3,000 miles.
>It is important to note, however, that the entire additive package still
>needs to be balanced for best performance. For example, engine oil with
>a high zinc level but low detergent may not perform over a drain
>interval of 3,000 miles or longer.
>
>Ain't this fun???  So I think the answer is that, for cam break-in 
>purposes, the real racing oil ("not street legal") is the better 
>choice.  For normal (non-racing) use, VR-1 seems to be the better 
>choice.  Additional confusion has crept into this thread because 
>there is only one VR-1 (the street legal stuff).  Racing ("not 
>street legal") oil is *not* VR-1.
>
>Geez, I wish more of my tribology class had stuck with me.
>
>--
>J.C. Hassall
>Blacksburg VA
>'63 TR4 in autox preparation
>96% finished, 90% to go

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
96% finished, 90% to go 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Fri May  8 19:36:20 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 20:36:20 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Regarding Oil - Final part, test it
Message-ID: <1237586757.295980.1241832980526.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net>


From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  8 19:46:35 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 21:46:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Regarding Oil (part 2)
Message-ID: <c28.563d1b75.37363a7b@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2009 9:01:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jhassall at blacksburg.net writes:

Geez, I  wish more of my tribology class had stuck with me.



The hot girl didn't take tribology, so you lost me there.
Thanks for posting this.  I think this adequately summarizes what has  been 
said here.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri May  8 19:52:24 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 21:52:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Regarding Oil (long, Pt. 1)
In-Reply-To: <0KJC00HD6PGU5V4P@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <4A04A998.21334.14898105@localhost>

On 8 May 2009 at 20:31, J.C. Hassall wrote:

> I sent this last night but it bumped up against the verbosity 
> limiter; this is part 1:
[and]
> part 2

Thanks you.



-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Fri May  8 20:13:16 2009
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 22:13:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] GT6 Headliner
Message-ID: <d27.2d82bed0.373640bc@aol.com>

Thanks.  I appreciate the input.  I am not attempting to do this  part 
myself.  The car is going to a trim shop for the job.  I know my  limitations.
 
Sam and Carol Clark
Green Country Triumphs
 
 
In a message dated 5/8/2009 8:36:19 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes:

Well, I  did mine, but that was some twenty years ago, and the car was  all
apart.  Even then it was a pain in the a** and I vowed to never do  it
again.  That being said, the headliner does indeed go under the  windscreen
seal so unless you can find a way to wedge it underneath without  removing
the seal then the windscreen has to come  out-

*************************************************
>Has  anyone out there had to replace the headliner in their GT6?  I'm   
being 
>told that the windshield has to come out to put the new one  in.  Fact  or 
>fiction?
>TIA   
>Sam  and Carol Clark
>Green Country Triumphs
>**************A Good  Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 
easy 
>steps!  
>
Barry Schwartz
La Mesa, CA (San  Diego)


**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May  8 20:44:39 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 19:44:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3B rear motor mount
In-Reply-To: <354a1780905080739q35b5ab9bv605d5c79c5d0cbb7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d25.4cbf7db7.37338a8c@aol.com><F9B71E6C38EB4E6C83FCB72E07CED3CC@userb38463fba5><3A8C1EB1E4BF4004894DAE1483947C6B@Edscomputer><7bb181af0905080722x1c44bfb0t90ba6610f297ec40@mail.gmail.com><001d01c9cfe9$b67636e0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>
	<354a1780905080739q35b5ab9bv605d5c79c5d0cbb7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <83CE18904FDF40E68C6D850192255227@Meislaptop>

> The earlier, non-syncro 1st gear boxes, are about 3/4" shorter than the
> TR3B-TR6 boxes. That is what is behind Ed's question.

I agree, except the difference is closer to 3/8" than 3/4".

I would also like to know the answer to Ed's question for certain; but my
_guess_ would be that they simply drilled the rear crossmember 3/8" farther
back.  I don't have them handy; but at one time I had a photo of a TR3B rear
crossmember, that appeared to simply have the two holes farther back.

Randall

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Fri May  8 22:43:39 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 21:43:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] I need schooling regarding side curtains
Message-ID: <4A0509FB.7030605@comcast.net>

I am restoring a 57 TR3 (TS11544L). When I bought the car I received 3
rather rough looking Dzus style side curtains and an assortment of side
curtain brackets, both Dzus and wedge mount. They also have sliding
windows. Based on my research, the wedge mounts went away at TS28825.

Can I retrofit my Dzus side curtains with wedges and zippers when I
rebuild them, or are there major differences in the construction of the
frames? I have been attempting to keep the car fairly original, but are
there benefits to using the Dzus mounts?

The Moss catalog kind of implies that using the later side screens
requires use of the later top which then implies that there is some sort
of structural difference.

Thanks,

Mike

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat May  9 03:46:08 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 04:46:08 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] I need schooling regarding side curtains
Message-ID: <7374585.1241862368742.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Mike,

I converted a set of the later Dzus mount side curtains for TS27536LO by welding up the Dzus holes and redrilling for the wedge pieces. I too was given a mixed set of side curtains when I bought the car. One door used Dzus, the other had the original wedges. It was interesting that I found the missing wedges used as shims under the fuel tank straps. I had no problems with the fit of the original top.

>Subject: [TR] I need schooling regarding side curtains
>
>I am restoring a 57 TR3 (TS11544L). When I bought the car I received 3
>rather rough looking Dzus style side curtains and an assortment of side
>curtain brackets, both Dzus and wedge mount. They also have sliding
>windows. Based on my research, the wedge mounts went away at TS28825.
>
>Can I retrofit my Dzus side curtains with wedges and zippers when I
>rebuild them, or are there major differences in the construction of the
>frames? I have been attempting to keep the car fairly original, but are
>there benefits to using the Dzus mounts?
>
>The Moss catalog kind of implies that using the later side screens
>requires use of the later top which then implies that there is some sort
>of structural difference.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mike

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat May  9 04:50:55 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 06:50:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] I need schooling regarding side curtains
Message-ID: <bc0.54569d67.3736ba0f@aol.com>

I have a set of each; Dzus and Wedge.  Which is more desireable as to  fit 
and rattle?  I need to get on this as the rainy season is only about 3  
weeks away here in FL.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823232x1201398636/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
May5909footerNO62)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  9 07:10:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 06:10:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] I need schooling regarding side curtains
In-Reply-To: <bc0.54569d67.3736ba0f@aol.com>
References: <bc0.54569d67.3736ba0f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4F9CE8168C874672BBADDC78856B385F@Meislaptop>

> I have a set of each; Dzus and Wedge.  Which is more desireable as to  fit
> and rattle? 

IMO, the Dzus type are more secure.  The wedge type mostly rely on the snaps
to hold the legs into the sockets.

Plus if memory serves, the snap locations were different on the later cars,
so the early sidecurtains aren't going to fit properly anyway.

Randall

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sat May  9 07:53:49 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 09:53:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Could use some help - Anyone got an extra TR4 crankshaft
 pulley??
Message-ID: <6fa72a770905090653r33ccdd9esd2877af812291b37@mail.gmail.com>

I could use your help.

I was getting ready to head over to my Mom's house to take her to lunch in
the TR4.

Checked all the fluifs, topped up the oil,  and found the fan belt loose.

Belt looked bad.  When I came back to write the number down I bumped the
engine around until I could find the number and found the belt tight.

I figued a chunk was missing from the belt, but instead found a 2 to 3 inch
piece missing from the side of the pulley towards the engine.

Not sure how/why this happened other than age.

If anyone has an extra pulley they can part with,  please contact me off
list.

I consider myself quite lucky.
Last time I had driven the car was to the Gathering with the Triumph Club of
the Carolinas -  it was a 2.5 hour drive each way running 75 mph much of the
way.  I'm sure glad it did not get me on the way there or back.   By the way
- the Gathering was absolutely great!  fine weather and tons of British
cars.

Thanks very much.

Chris

63 TR4
54 TR2 - waiting for me still....

From dkspence at telus.net  Sat May  9 08:16:16 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 08:16:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2662.1241874619.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2662.1241874619.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AE920142-94B9-456C-B948-86DE3FF6CA9F@telus.net>

Lou
Are you sure you weren't referring to the Stag? I thought most of them  
eventually were 7 cylinder cars... : )


On 9-May-09, at 7:10 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Loumetelko at aol.com
> Date: May 8, 2009 5:21:18 PM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
>
> In a message dated 5/8/2009 3:23:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> jimmuller at rcn.com writes:
>
> On 8 May  2009 at 17:07, kinderlehrer at comcast.net wrote:
>
>> Is the TR6  distributor similar to the TR3?B  Other than
>> the addition of 3  more spark plug wires of course.
>
> Unless I am sadly amiss with my math,  the TR6 would have only 2 more
> spark plug wires.  You must thinking  of the TR7.
> Which as the name implies had a seven cylinder engine.
>
> Lou Metelko

From jimbpps at cox.net  Sat May  9 08:39:23 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 07:39:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Regarding Oil (long, Pt. 1)
In-Reply-To: <0KJC00HD6PGU5V4P@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <0KJC00HD6PGU5V4P@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <8BDAB6910C824419B48BF0E074DFB79B@JimofficePC>

Thanks for the information from the Valvoline Motor Oil people! Very
interesting.

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of J.C. Hassall
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 5:32 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Regarding Oil (long, Pt. 1)

I sent this last night but it bumped up against the verbosity limiter; this is
part 1:
>Date: Thu, 07 May 2009 21:23:48 -0400
>To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
>From: "J.C. Hassall" <jhassall at blacksburg.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] Regarding Oil
>
>At 01:57 PM 5/7/2009, jimmuller at rcn.com wrote:
>>David L wrote:
>> > a racing oil that is "not street legal" has a very short sump life 
>> > and is intended to be used and dumped with a high frequency...  The 
>> > reason is; it does a very good job for a very short (by comparison) 
>> > time.  Amounts of ZDDP in excess of 1200 - 1300 ppm are not good 
>> > for your  motor...  As a result of this article I chose Valvoline 
>> > VR-1 20/50 Racing because of its availability and ZDDP levels in 
>> > the 1200 - 1300 ppm range.
>>
>>This raises a few questions, if you please.  Can we assume that 
>>street-legal VR1 does have a long sump life even though the "not 
>>street legal" does not?  That seems to be your implication.
>>
>>Secondly, if the "not street legal" stuff is "not street legal" 
>>because of its ZDDP content, how can the street-legal VR1 stuff still 
>>contain ZDDP too?
>
>I posed this question to Valvoline:
>I have a flat tappet engine I'm about to break-in.  Could you pls tell  
>me, between VR-1 30wt and Valvoline Racing Oil ("not street legal") 
>20W-50, which has the higher Zn and P content?  It appears from the  
>data sheets that VR-1 does, but that seems contrary to what the cam 
>manufacturer says, and to reason, since more Zn would damage catalytic 
>converters faster.




--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
96% finished, 90% to go
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat May  9 09:30:07 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 11:30:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRA in WV
Message-ID: <BAY123-W330D92C67EDE8C460034B6BA650@phx.gbl>

Thinking of going to the TRA meet in WV next month if we can schedule some
vacation time. Never been to one before but since we won't be making the VTR
trek this year it would be a nice get away. We might be excommunicated from
the list though since we would be showing up in Evelyn's TR8:) .  Any body
else from the list going to be there?

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. goes with you.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_
Mobile1_052009

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sat May  9 09:36:31 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 17:36:31 +0200
Subject: [TR] Re Help wanted
Message-ID: <4AA7BBE70ACF4BB7894849A72550D589@Study>

I once had this exact problem with a 1963 6 cylinder P4 Rover. Turned out to 
be the HT  lead between the coil and the distributor. You might want to 
check that both ends are properly connected and not "burned" and the lead 
itself is good.

David Brister
1967 TR4A


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 21100 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sat May  9 10:36:42 2009
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 12:36:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRA in WV
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W330D92C67EDE8C460034B6BA650@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W330D92C67EDE8C460034B6BA650@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL119-W188D2CEB01083906490FDFA5650@phx.gbl>

> Thinking of going to the TRA meet in WV next month if we can schedule some
> vacation time. Never been to one before but since we won't be making the
VTR
> trek this year it would be a nice get away. We might be excommunicated from
> the list though since we would be showing up in Evelyn's TR8:) . Any body
> else from the list going to be there?
>
> Marty


Marty:



I'm going. TR8s are welcome. My local TRA Chapter is the host. I am sure this
will be a good one. I promise perfect weather.



The back roads are great. The Summit Point lunch/laps/lecture will be fun. The
gimmick rallye and funkhana will be particularly diabolical, but there are
cash prizes.



Lots of history around here, too. Antietam, Harpers Ferry, C&O Canal.



And you can play the slots and watch the ponies run, too.



I'll answer any questions you have.



J.R. (John)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May  9 12:15:18 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 11:15:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Regarding Oil
In-Reply-To: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop>

> This raises a few questions, if you please.  Can we assume that street-
> legal VR1 does have a long sump life even though the "not street legal"
> does not?  That seems to be your implication.

I'm not certain quite what is meant by "long sump life" ... the oil will
last basically forever if it stays in the sump.  However, all of Valvoline's
'racing' oils have relatively low detergent levels, meaning they are not as
good at keeping solids suspended until they can be removed by the filter or
carried away by an oil change.  Thus it is best to change them more often
than one would change a high detergent oil, to avoid having deposits
accumulate inside the engine.

> Secondly, if the "not street legal" stuff is "not street legal" because of
> its ZDDP content, how can the street-legal VR1 stuff still contain ZDDP
> too?

There are really two answers to that question.  The first is that it's only
the amount of ZDDP that has been reduced; all motor oil is still allowed to
have up to a specified amount.  Think of it as "low lead" gasoline.

The second answer is that "Not street legal" is only marketing hype.  There
is no ban on _using_ high ZDDP oil on the "street", only a new standard for
motor oil that specifies a maximum zinc content.  Think of it as GL5 vs GL4;
the newer standard is not necessarily better, and there is no prohibition
(at least not yet) against selling products that only meet the older
standard (or indeed, any standard at all).

Randall

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sat May  9 15:55:56 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 17:55:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] TRA in WV
Message-ID: <d14.48e52731.373755ec@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/9/2009 12:19:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

Thinking  of going to the TRA meet in WV next month if we can schedule some
vacation  time. Never been to one before but since we won't be making the 
VTR
trek  this year it would be a nice get away. We might be excommunicated from
the  list though since we would be showing up in Evelyn's TR8:) .  Any  body
else from the list going to be there?

Marty
 


I  will be driving across the wilds of West Virginia on Tuesday (16th) with 
 arrival noon on Wednesday.  The 220 miles across the state on Highway 50  
looks like idea TR type roads.  Think I will have Bill Piggott autograph  
his books in my collection.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana



**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823232x1201398636/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
May5909footerNO62)

From jimbpps at cox.net  Sat May  9 17:07:09 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 16:07:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Question for listers
Message-ID: <0A377D355CB8464C97A6F3909BBA3614@JimofficePC>

A few weeks ago a friend blew the head gasket on their TR4. The head was pulled
and sent to a machinist where they did a slight resurface and a valve job. Now
the head is ready to go on the block and we find that the web that is cast in
the block from right to left and located between cylinders 2 and 3 has a crack
in it! I have seen a lot of Triumph 4 cylinder engines without their heads, but
I don't believe I have ever seen this particular type of crack. I have seen
plenty of heads cracked between the water ports between cylinders 2 and 3, but
not the block!

Has anyone on the list seen a crack as described? If so what did they do? Weld
it up? Ignore it? Or what?

Thanks in advance for any advice, help, etc.

Jim
Jim Bauder
Cell: 480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat May  9 18:49:55 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 19:49:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] uni-syn vs synchrometer
References: <1417958355.506641235140457392.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F7E1ED006A8644769F534157F162C195@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <000701c9d109$3da145e0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>

i had a uni-syn, and it worked fine.

i unfortunately lent it to a friend (still a friend) who denies it.

assuming i'm not senile and can still use one of these, does anyone have a 
preference of one over the other?

thanks. 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sat May  9 18:59:30 2009
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 20:59:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] uni-syn vs synchrometer
Message-ID: <cc3.45e507b0.373780f2@aol.com>

Personally, I  prefer a pair of plastic tubes. One end of each goes to  the 
air inlets with the air cleaners off. The other ends go to one's ears. When 
 the sound of the suction is identical, the carbs are synchronised. I have 
used a  Uni-Syn before, but stopped using it because my ears appeared more 
accurate.  After buying my TR3A, I bought a '65 Volvo PV544 Sport and it came 
with a  Uni-Syn but I've never used it. I have, however, managed to get 
very precise  carburettor sychronisation with the tubes, on both cars and with 
previous  Triumphs and MGs wth SUs and Strombergs.
 
I'm sorry to give you an answer that you didn't want. I often find that  
forums give an answer that says "try this: It should work". Now I find  I am 
doing the same, so perhaps I am hypocritical. However, my opinion is that I  
would ditch both tools and use the ones that my parents gave me, along with  
a pair of plastic tubes.
 
Sorry to have thrown a grenade into the whole forum; I'm sure I've created  
trouble and I'm honestly not a troublemaker......
 
Tim
 
Tim Dyer,  Proprietor
Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road,  RR3
Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada 
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario

From mathews at uga.edu  Sat May  9 19:16:44 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 21:16:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] uni-syn vs synchrometer
In-Reply-To: <cc3.45e507b0.373780f2@aol.com>
References: <cc3.45e507b0.373780f2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A062AFC.2060806@uga.edu>

Of course if your ears are young and you have identical hearing in both 
ears, it should work fine.  I still have the Uni-Syn I bought back in 
the 60's....but I still listen for the hiss too..even though my wife 
swears I am deaf!!!!!

Doug

KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
> Personally, I  prefer a pair of plastic tubes. One end of each goes to  the 
> air inlets with the air cleaners off. The other ends go to one's ears. When 
>  the sound of the suction is identical, the carbs are synchronised. I have 
> used a  Uni-Syn before, but stopped using it because my ears appeared more 
> accurate.  After buying my TR3A, I bought a '65 Volvo PV544 Sport and it came 
> with a  Uni-Syn but I've never used it. I have, however, managed to get 
> very precise  carburettor sychronisation with the tubes, on both cars and with 
> previous  Triumphs and MGs wth SUs and Strombergs.
>  
> I'm sorry to give you an answer that you didn't want. I often find that  
> forums give an answer that says "try this: It should work". Now I find  I am 
> doing the same, so perhaps I am hypocritical. However, my opinion is that I  
> would ditch both tools and use the ones that my parents gave me, along with  
> a pair of plastic tubes.
>  
> Sorry to have thrown a grenade into the whole forum; I'm sure I've created  
> trouble and I'm honestly not a troublemaker......
>  
> Tim
>  
> Tim Dyer,  Proprietor
> Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
> 427 Kings Creek Road,  RR3
> Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada 
> Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
> (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 
>
> Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
> Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
> Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mathews at uga.edu
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From steven at newellboys.net  Sat May  9 19:20:40 2009
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 19:20:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] uni-syn vs synchrometer
In-Reply-To: <000701c9d109$3da145e0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>
References: <1417958355.506641235140457392.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F7E1ED006A8644769F534157F162C195@artvac412870f0>
	<000701c9d109$3da145e0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4A062BE8.3080206@newellboys.net>

oliver wrote:

> i had a uni-syn, and it worked fine.
> i unfortunately lent it to a friend (still a friend) who denies it.
> assuming i'm not senile and can still use one of these, does anyone 
> have a preference of one over the other? 

The original uni-syn's might have been super sweet but the reproductions 
available now seem flimsy and unreliable. I'm not saying they can't do 
the job. I like the syncrometer, which is well made and reads precisely 
and reliably. If you don't mind a few extra dollars, get two and use one 
on each carb for a truly synchonized reading.

Steven

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat May  9 19:26:57 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 18:26:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] uni-syn vs synchrometer
In-Reply-To: <cc3.45e507b0.373780f2@aol.com>
References: <cc3.45e507b0.373780f2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905091826j3a143451j79c545a27230862b@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, May 9, 2009 at 5:59 PM, <KingsCreekTrees at aol.com> wrote:

> Personally, I  prefer a pair of plastic tubes. One end of each goes to  the
> air inlets with the air cleaners off. The other ends go to one's ears.


I just can't get that image out of my mind.

Actually, I think all the methods are adequate -- but then I have often
suspected that the balance tube (or whatever it's called) on the manifold is
so large this isn't really a super critical adjustment.

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat May  9 19:29:21 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 21:29:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question for listers
In-Reply-To: <0A377D355CB8464C97A6F3909BBA3614@JimofficePC>
References: <0A377D355CB8464C97A6F3909BBA3614@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <0KJE006J6MSXHDAT@vms173017.mailsrvcs.net>

At 07:07 PM 5/9/2009, you wrote:
>A few weeks ago a friend blew the head gasket on their TR4. The head 
>was pulled
>and sent to a machinist where they did a slight resurface and a valve job. Now
>the head is ready to go on the block and we find that the web that is cast in
>the block from right to left and located between cylinders 2 and 3 has a crack
>in it! I have seen a lot of Triumph 4 cylinder engines without their 
>heads, but
>I don't believe I have ever seen this particular type of crack. I have seen
>plenty of heads cracked between the water ports between cylinders 2 and 3, but
>not the block!
>
>Has anyone on the list seen a crack as described? If so what did they do? Weld
>it up? Ignore it? Or what?

Jim, mine had the same problem.  I had it welded (don't remember the 
name of the technique, but it involved heating the block in an oven, 
then plasma spraying some $$$ stuff in the crack).  It worked really 
well.  I can find out the technique name if you need it.

jim



--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
96% finished, 90% to go 

From tr3a at comcast.net  Sat May  9 19:35:52 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 21:35:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question for listers
In-Reply-To: <0A377D355CB8464C97A6F3909BBA3614@JimofficePC>
References: <0A377D355CB8464C97A6F3909BBA3614@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <613D7A31-D3A0-45A2-9C4C-464D745696F6@comcast.net>

Hi, Jim. It is my understanding that it is very difficult to weld cast  
iron, especially in something subjected to the stresses an automobile  
engine must endure. You might do a search on welding cast iron on some  
of the welding forums for more info:

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/forumdisplay.php?f=14  or
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/
http://weldingweb.com/
http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/index.php

Good luck!

On May 9, 2009, at 7:07 PM, Jim Bauder wrote:

> A few weeks ago a friend blew the head gasket on their TR4. The head  
> was pulled
> and sent to a machinist where they did a slight resurface and a  
> valve job. Now
> the head is ready to go on the block and we find that the web that  
> is cast in
> the block from right to left and located between cylinders 2 and 3  
> has a crack
> in it! I have seen a lot of Triumph 4 cylinder engines without their  
> heads, but
> I don't believe I have ever seen this particular type of crack. I  
> have seen
> plenty of heads cracked between the water ports between cylinders 2  
> and 3, but
> not the block!
>
> Has anyone on the list seen a crack as described? If so what did  
> they do? Weld
> it up? Ignore it? Or what?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice, help, etc.
>
> Jim
> Jim Bauder
> Cell: 480-309-9525
> '68 TR250 CD47L
> Scottsdale, AZ
> http://www.triumphowners.com/647

From peterschop at aol.com  Sat May  9 20:04:49 2009
From: peterschop at aol.com (peterschop at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 22:04:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2663.1241874619.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2663.1241874619.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CB9F2AD591552B-17B4-1FF@FWM-M21.sysops.aol.com>

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 19:21:18 EDT
From: Loumetelko at aol.com
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <cc0.54a5d677.3736186e at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

In a message dated 5/8/2009 3:23:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jimmuller at rcn.com writes:

On 8 May  2009 at 17:07, kinderlehrer at comcast.net wrote:

> Is the TR6  distributor similar to the TR3?B  Other than
> the addition of 3  more spark plug wires of course.

Unless I am sadly amiss with my math,  the TR6 would have only 2 more 
spark plug wires.  You must thinking  of the TR7.
Which as the name implies had a seven cylinder engine.
 
Lou Metelko








I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three. 





























Peter

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat May  9 21:00:30 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 21:00:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans America Charity Drive 2009 - Stag Unveiling Event
Message-ID: <4A06434E.5020302@tscusa.org>

Triumph Trans America Charity Drive 2009 -  STTAG Stag Unveiling Event

On 31 May 2009, the STTAG (1973 Triumph Stag) that has been the subject 
of intense restoration over the past 14 months for the Triumph Trans 
America Charity Drive 2009 - that many of you have contributed toward 
the restoration will be rolled out in an unveiling ceremony in 
Burlington, Illinois hosted by the Illinois Sports Owners Association 
and the Triumph Stag Club USA. 
(see http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/).

This Unveiling is a limited by invitation only event due to the small 
size of the unveiling venue.

We would however, like to invite the British Car Media to document this 
historic, first of its kind event rollout.

As a reminder, the start of the drive begins at the HQ or Grass Roots 
Motorsports on the 27th of June in Holly Hill, Florida outside of 
Daytona Beach.  http://classicmotorsports.net/events/494/
The start of the drive and  is open to the public, bring your classic 
car and provide support for John Macartney and this national drive.  
Feel free to caravan along with John as long and as far as you want, 
however you need to make your own travel details.

If you are able to attend the unveiling event as a media reporter or 
know some Sports car media who can attend, please contact me by email 
below so we can plan for your presence.

Cheers!!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TTA Drive North American Coordinator
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
http://www.tscusa.org
mailto:Chairman at tscusa.org

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From thebujas at comcast.net  Sat May  9 22:06:44 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2009 23:06:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag Status - May 9
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDICEDKDGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

We're getting closer and closer to getting the TTA Stag on the road.  This
weekend's milestones included installation of the carpeting and all the
exterior lights, along with the initial engine startup.  Next week's work
will include installation of the bumpers, chrome trim, and soft top.

Additional details can be found on the Triumph TransAmerica website at:
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

This week's entry also includes a 38 second (6.6 megabyte) video file of the
initial engine start:
http://www.snic-braaapp.org/media/TTAStart.mpg

Thanks to all of the list members who donated money and the ISOA members who
have donated their time and skills to bring this dream to reality.

Tim Buja - Rockford, IL

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun May 10 06:53:02 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 12:53:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Question for listers
In-Reply-To: <0A377D355CB8464C97A6F3909BBA3614@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <793340493.7770001241959982149.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Jim Bauder wrote:
B 

>A few weeks ago a friend blew the head gasket on their TR4. The head was
pulled
>and sent to a machinist where they did a slight resurface and a valve job.
Now
>the head is ready to go on the block and we find that the web that is cast in
>the block from right to left and located between cylinders 2 and 3 has a
crack
>in it! I have seen a lot of Triumph 4 cylinder engines without their heads,
but
>I don't believe I have ever seen this particular type of crack. I have seen
>plenty of heads cracked between the water ports between cylinders 2 and 3,
but
>not the block!

>Has anyone on the list seen a crack as described? If so what did they do?
Weld
>it up? Ignore it? Or what?

Since all you have to do is put the head back on, I suppose someone might
advise you to leave it and run it until it becomes a grander problem.B  That
wouldn't be my advice.B 



If your friend has any intention of driving it, as opposed to trailering it
for show, fix it right, and right now.B  If you're going to weld it, you have
to pull and strip the engine anyway, so why not source a good block somewhere
instead?B  Given the wet liners, a strength of these cars is that the blocks
are much easier to find than MG's and others (at least it would seem).B  Too,
they're typically inexpensive...or not a lot more than having welding done.B 
In fact, mine was free from a Lister who had a spare, since my original block
had cracks in the web underneath the cylinders.B  All I had to do was drive to
Connecticut to get it, a couple of hours away.



Just my two cents...and the price of copper is down!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667

New Hampshire

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun May 10 07:17:36 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 09:17:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Question for listers
In-Reply-To: <793340493.7770001241959982149.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <0A377D355CB8464C97A6F3909BBA3614@JimofficePC>
	<793340493.7770001241959982149.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B95F1BF6B59A49A5A4AD6445F60A2489@DCH6RFC1>

If you are interested, I can put you in touch with a guy here in New England
who literally has dozens of old blocks.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 8:53 AM
To: Jim Bauder
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Question for listers

>Jim Bauder wrote:
B 

>A few weeks ago a friend blew the head gasket on their TR4. The head was
pulled
>and sent to a machinist where they did a slight resurface and a valve job.
Now
>the head is ready to go on the block and we find that the web that is cast
in
>the block from right to left and located between cylinders 2 and 3 has a
crack
>in it! I have seen a lot of Triumph 4 cylinder engines without their heads,
but
>I don't believe I have ever seen this particular type of crack. I have seen
>plenty of heads cracked between the water ports between cylinders 2 and 3,
but
>not the block!

>Has anyone on the list seen a crack as described? If so what did they do?
Weld
>it up? Ignore it? Or what?

Since all you have to do is put the head back on, I suppose someone might
advise you to leave it and run it until it becomes a grander problem.B  That
wouldn't be my advice.B 



If your friend has any intention of driving it, as opposed to trailering it
for show, fix it right, and right now.B  If you're going to weld it, you
have
to pull and strip the engine anyway, so why not source a good block
somewhere
instead?B  Given the wet liners, a strength of these cars is that the blocks
are much easier to find than MG's and others (at least it would seem).B
Too,
they're typically inexpensive...or not a lot more than having welding done.B

In fact, mine was free from a Lister who had a spare, since my original
block
had cracks in the web underneath the cylinders.B  All I had to do was drive
to
Connecticut to get it, a couple of hours away.



Just my two cents...and the price of copper is down!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667

New Hampshire
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From thebujas at comcast.net  Sun May 10 07:34:37 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 08:34:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag Status - May 9
In-Reply-To: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDICEDKDGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIGEDMDGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

Ask and you shall receive:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOdkn4hQmO4

Thanks for the suggestion!

Tim Buja

-----Original Message-----
From: oliver [mailto:sumton at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 09, 2009 11:41 PM
To: Ann and Tim Buja
Subject: Re: [TR] TTA Stag Status - May 9


you guys have done a great job. thank you!

 just a thought for you - can you post this on youtube?  i think that would
be easier for us to see.

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun May 10 07:47:36 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 09:47:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 slave flare type?
Message-ID: <7AEF826A5ED04F58A969BA185B3DC649@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Hello,
I am re-doing redo's.  I've forgotten what type flare (bubble or double) goes
into the stock clutch slave cylinder on my Girling equipped '60 late TR3...
can someone tell me please?  Will the wrong flare always eventually fail?

Thanks, Paul

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun May 10 07:57:31 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 09:57:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] bubble to double
Message-ID: <54D4CF9485DC4790BAD2391103946EB2@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Another one needed for today...

is there a chance that I can turn a FLAPS-bought steel 3/16" tubing BUBBLE
FLARE into a DOUBLE FLARE?

If so, how?

This is a thought since... often producing a double flare requires first
producing a bubble flair  (at least in theory).

Thanks, Paul

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun May 10 08:32:39 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 10:32:39 EDT
Subject: [TR] TRA in WV
Message-ID: <bfc.5a55705d.37383f87@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/9/2009 12:19:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

Thinking  of going to the TRA meet in WV next month if we can schedule some
vacation  time.


Hey Marty,
Beverly and I will be going in the TR3B or TR4.  If you want I could  
grease the path for you to be a TRA Concours judge.  They can always use a  
person of your skills even if they may be new to the idea of having a Blind  
Judge!  Don't forget your white walking stick and those dark glasses and we  
will make it happen for you.
Cheers,
Darrell
Now what is VTR going to do w/o it's one and only blind judge in  
California?  Geeze that is going to be tough!
**************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222376999x1201454299/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=M
ay51009AvgfooterNO62)

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Sun May 10 10:14:28 2009
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 12:14:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] SU H6 throttle shaft bushing replacement
Message-ID: <BLU105-W15150A3AC8251A1ED3FC64ED620@phx.gbl>

It's time for me to replace the throttle shaft bushes in the SU H6 carbs on my
TR3.  They're leaking a bit and I can't get my idle speed below 1200 RPM.
Otherwise no problems with carbs and it runs great.  In the early 90s when I
rebuilt the carbs I got the throttle shaft and bush kit from Moss and had a
shop in Cincinnati ream out the bodies and press in the bushes.  I'm trying to
decide how much work I should do now.



Should I just get four new bushes from Moss and not replace anything more?
Hoping the wear is in the bushes and not the shafts.



Should I put in new shafts also?  Will I be able to use micrometers to tell if
there is wear on my shafts?  My concern with replacing the shafts is drilling
them for the pin to locate the throttle stops.  Any tips for doing that?  I
have a drill press.



Should I install a complete rebuilt kit even though I have no other problems?
I've only got about 25000 miles since the rebuild.  But is 17 years getting
near the end of the life expectancy for seals?



The shafts that are installed measure 5/16" (.3125").  I'm hoping that is the
standard shaft size and the OD of the bushes Moss sells now is the same as
those sold 17 years ago.



thanks,

John Reed

1957 TR3

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun May 10 10:58:14 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 12:58:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 relay location
Message-ID: <CE59E04D7C8A4BEA945C38952422CE64@Edscomputer>

List,

Anyone know where the overdrive relay is supposed to be located on an early
TR4? Would appreciate a photo of same from an original car if available.

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From llst at shaw.ca  Sun May 10 14:04:34 2009
From: llst at shaw.ca (LT)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 13:04:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Head gasket replacement
Message-ID: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>

I am going to do a head gasket replacement in the next week or so.

Read through the archives and found some info from a few persons.

Does anyone have any specific do's or dont's with the actual gasket and 
head installation?

Have taken the front cowl off to repair the radiator (leak around the 
neck) and was wondering if there are any other items I should tackle. 
(Crankshaft timing cover front oil seal)

The car is a 1957 TR3 which had a restore/rebuild around 1985 and has 
about 5000 miles on it since. Sat around for the last 5 years.

I had problems with white smoke exhaust after getting it started (wisp 
of steam in the #1 cylinder when I pulled a plug). No sign of blown 
gasket or antifreeze leak.

Head looks okay.

Any ideas would be appreciated as I don't want to do it a second time.

Thanking all in advance for any input.

Larry

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun May 10 14:19:58 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 16:19:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <d08.55a8aa92.373890ee@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/9/2009 9:05:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
peterschop at aol.com writes: 
> I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six 
> cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three. 
> 

If that's the case, how many cylinders does a TR4A have?

Dave


;-)

From mathews at uga.edu  Sun May 10 14:24:48 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 16:24:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Head gasket replacement
In-Reply-To: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>
References: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <4A073810.603@uga.edu>

Larry,
I'm not sure what the white smoke is you talk about after getting it 
started. Lots of time that is oil leaking down from the valves after 
sitting due to faulty valve stem seals, not necessarily water vapor.

The steam from cyl 1, is it really steam?

My input....

Doug

LT wrote:
> I am going to do a head gasket replacement in the next week or so.
>
> Read through the archives and found some info from a few persons.
>
> Does anyone have any specific do's or dont's with the actual gasket 
> and head installation?
>
> Have taken the front cowl off to repair the radiator (leak around the 
> neck) and was wondering if there are any other items I should tackle. 
> (Crankshaft timing cover front oil seal)
>
> The car is a 1957 TR3 which had a restore/rebuild around 1985 and has 
> about 5000 miles on it since. Sat around for the last 5 years.
>
> I had problems with white smoke exhaust after getting it started (wisp 
> of steam in the #1 cylinder when I pulled a plug). No sign of blown 
> gasket or antifreeze leak.
>
> Head looks okay.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated as I don't want to do it a second time.
>
> Thanking all in advance for any input.
>
> Larry
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mathews at uga.edu
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May 10 14:34:57 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 15:34:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
References: <d08.55a8aa92.373890ee@cs.com>
Message-ID: <67771C9C1EB944CDAC5C3BE6216310A8@yourpd3mh0abgs>

does that make the tr2 a early 'green car'? ;-)
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted


> In a message dated 5/9/2009 9:05:26 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> peterschop at aol.com writes: 
>> I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six 
>> cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three. 
>> 
> 
> If that's the case, how many cylinders does a TR4A have?
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> ;-)
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 10 14:41:26 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 15:41:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Head gasket replacement
In-Reply-To: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>
References: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <20090510204150.ABFDF187652@autox.team.net>

You can review that section of my TR-3/4 motor building tips here:
http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

You may want to try just retorquing the head on the off chance that 
it helps before pulling the head.

- Tony Drews

At 03:04 PM 5/10/2009, LT wrote:
>I am going to do a head gasket replacement in the next week or so.
>
>Read through the archives and found some info from a few persons.
>
>Does anyone have any specific do's or dont's with the actual gasket 
>and head installation?
>
>Have taken the front cowl off to repair the radiator (leak around 
>the neck) and was wondering if there are any other items I should 
>tackle. (Crankshaft timing cover front oil seal)
>
>The car is a 1957 TR3 which had a restore/rebuild around 1985 and 
>has about 5000 miles on it since. Sat around for the last 5 years.
>
>I had problems with white smoke exhaust after getting it started 
>(wisp of steam in the #1 cylinder when I pulled a plug). No sign of 
>blown gasket or antifreeze leak.
>
>Head looks okay.
>
>Any ideas would be appreciated as I don't want to do it a second time.
>
>Thanking all in advance for any input.
>
>Larry
>_

From jimbpps at cox.net  Sun May 10 16:20:37 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 15:20:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Head gasket replacement
In-Reply-To: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>
References: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <D7756ECF802C409CBC337ACD4B7346E3@JimofficePC>

It has been my experience with the TR3 engines that if they are creating white
smoke it is steam! Usually caused by a blown head gasket as you surmise! Oil
from worn valve guides or bad rings is usually darker and bluish, with a too
rich fuel mixture creating black smoke.

While to front cap is off I always replaced the timing cover gasket and front
seal, if there is a enough of a grove to feel with your fingernail on the front
of the crankshaft, install a SpeedeSleeve see:
http://www.skf.com/files/778249.pdf

While the timing cover is off be sure that the timing chain is in good shape and
the tensioner is working and not worn.

And for sure have the radiator rodded out and pressure tested for leaks. You
also might check the water pump shaft for wobble, the generator for proper
fitment and tightness of the mounting bolts.
 
I am sure there are some other things, but not to worry anything that was not
checked will fail as soon as it is all put back together!

Regards and good luck,

Jim
Jim Bauder
Cell: 480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of LT
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 1:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Head gasket replacement

I am going to do a head gasket replacement in the next week or so.

Read through the archives and found some info from a few persons.

Does anyone have any specific do's or dont's with the actual gasket and head
installation?

Have taken the front cowl off to repair the radiator (leak around the
neck) and was wondering if there are any other items I should tackle. 
(Crankshaft timing cover front oil seal)

The car is a 1957 TR3 which had a restore/rebuild around 1985 and has about 5000
miles on it since. Sat around for the last 5 years.

I had problems with white smoke exhaust after getting it started (wisp of steam
in the #1 cylinder when I pulled a plug). No sign of blown gasket or antifreeze
leak.

Head looks okay.

Any ideas would be appreciated as I don't want to do it a second time.

Thanking all in advance for any input.

Larry
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 10 17:03:43 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 18:03:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car
Message-ID: <20090510230403.E41A61878A9@autox.team.net>

As part of handling my late father's estate, we are selling his 
lovingly cared for 1971 Triumph TR-6.

Information here: http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/Uncle_Jack_TR6.htm

Could someone forward to the 6pack list?  I'm not on that one..

Thanks, Tony Drews

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May 10 17:28:23 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 18:28:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Moss motors
References: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>
	<20090510204150.ABFDF187652@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <83E6B625D7E04342A7D75C8F57792D69@yourpd3mh0abgs>

Hi all,
I just had a nice note from Michael Grant over at Moss Motors.
You may recall that I had had a problem with a interior panel set Moss
produces and was dissatisfied with the way the sales order taker had handled
the return and argued with my distributor.
I was also dissatisfied with the kit itself as far as originality; the kit was
to fit my Triumph TR4.
In any event, the Moss folks have been very helpful, unlike the original guy,
and have taken care of me in a most satisfactory way.
In addition, they made me think them to be are car guys, ...not just parts
suppliers.
I was told that if anyone has a question about originality of a part, we
should contact them, and I attach part of the note received:

If you ever receive something from us that does not meet your expectations,
we'd like to hear about it.
Many people assume we know about the problems with a part, and either don't
care or probably won't do anything about it.
That is simply not the case. 99.99% of the time, we are simply unaware of the
problem and the only way we have a chance of fixing the problem for you (and
everybody else who orders the part) is if you let us know.

Any suggestions that you may have that will help us improve the quality of an
item, or improve the accuracy of the information we provide about a part are
always welcome. Many people find it convenient to use the
simple email form on the "Contact Us" page on the Moss website:
http://www.mossmotors.com/AboutMoss/ContactUs.aspx

If you prefer, you may call our Technical Services Department at 805-681-3411.
You will be connected to one of my three full time Techs.
So many people call us for help that we are often not able to answer the calls
as fast as we'd like, and you may be asked to leave a message. I apologize in
advance for the inconvenience. We will get back to you within 2 business days.
And you always have the option of sending an email directly to me, or call me.
Michael Grant, Product Manager

That squares it for me and I think this has turned from a case of real heart
burn into good customer service.
Best,
Ray

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun May 10 18:06:57 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 17:06:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Moss motors
In-Reply-To: <83E6B625D7E04342A7D75C8F57792D69@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <4A073352.7070007@shaw.ca>
	<20090510204150.ABFDF187652@autox.team.net>
	<83E6B625D7E04342A7D75C8F57792D69@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905101706p1ae67219w825df19656208037@mail.gmail.com>

That sounds like the Moss Motors I have dealt with for the past 30 years.

Geo



On Sun, May 10, 2009 at 4:28 PM, spook01 <spook01 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Hi all,
> I just had a nice note from Michael Grant over at Moss Motors...

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun May 10 18:19:23 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 19:19:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <d08.55a8aa92.373890ee@cs.com>
References: <d08.55a8aa92.373890ee@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W19A7A41A7434FAA7E774C4E1630@phx.gbl>

I would think it would still have 4 because the TR5 would the five cyclinder.

How big was the hood of a TR250?!?



This thread has to be correct because as someone already said the TR4 had 4,
the TR6 has six and the TR8 had eight!

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 16:19:58 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
> In a message dated 5/9/2009 9:05:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
> peterschop at aol.com writes:
> > I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six
> > cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three.
> >
>
> If that's the case, how many cylinders does a TR4A have?
>
> Dave
>
>
> ;-)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue May 12 11:49:31 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 10:49:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Quick Ratio Rack
Message-ID: <545269.63560.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

    I see Moss is having a sale on quick ratio steering racks (2.5 turns) for
$189.95. TRF sells rebuilt racks for around $250 + core charge. Does anyone
have a quick ratio rack on their street car and how do you like it? Are you
better off to rebuild your existing rack or start off with a new rack with all
new components?

     Bill in Tehachapi

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Mon May 11 11:59:57 2009
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 13:59:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4A08679D.8050207@bright.net>

Last call for parts to Import Carlisle.
 

Hello list. Sorry to bug you but if anyone needs something brought to 
Import Carlisle, we need to know.  Loading on Tuesday.  Leaving very 
early Thursday morning and arriving Carlisle late afternoon. Our space 
numbers are E64 and E65.   Thanks, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Tue May 12 17:18:43 2009
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 16:18:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Quote for after market Stag valve cover gaskets
Message-ID: <abc1aef30905121618p4f73d93aw6cd83c4b225c5046@mail.gmail.com>

* I went to my local O ring company a few weeks back for some O rings. While
I was there, I had them quote me a price for having a valve cover
gasketmade in some sort of rubber or silicon for the Stag.  They sent
my new cork
gasket to their facility in TX to be used as a template.

This morning I got the quote back

They've quoted me $15 to have a single gasket made.  There is no minium
order and there no setup fees. I was given a 1-2 week lead time. I was
verbally told the material used is Buna and it is stamped

I've asked them to give me the spec of the material they used which I should
have tomorrow to share.


If you are interested, you can call the company directly.  Please use Quote
No. 1388

The usual disclaimer - NFI

Ace Seal, LLC
23 Las Colinas Lane Suite 108
San Jose, CA 95119
Tel: (800) 223-7325
Fax: (800) 329-1232

 Sujit Roy Realtor
Keller Williams Realty
Direct: (408) 839-8359
Email: sujitroy at yahoo.com
Website: http://roysrealty.com
*

From darrellw at ipns.com  Tue May 12 20:22:17 2009
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 19:22:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Quick Ratio Rack
In-Reply-To: <545269.63560.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <545269.63560.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <846883C1-A579-4E86-A6B2-53DB402E8E80@ipns.com>

Hi Bill,

I have a quick rack in my TR4A, and love it.  I would definitely  
recommend it for a street car.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From thebujas at comcast.net  Tue May 12 20:30:14 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 21:30:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Mark Joslyn of Champaign, IL
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1242064801.15021.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIAEEIDGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

If you haven't already heard, Mark Joslyn of the Central Illinois Triumph
Owners Association passed away on Sunday afternoon.

The Champaign-Urbana News-Gazette had only a brief obituary this morning,
more may follow tomorrow at:
<http://www.legacy.com/News-Gazette/Obituaries.asp?Page=LifeStory&PersonId=1
27209439>

Watch the word wrap, the link consists of everything between < and >

Here's what appeared this morning:

> CHAMPAIGN * Mark Joslyn, 52, of Champaign, died at 2:57 p.m. Sunday
> (May 10, 2009) at home. Funeral arrangements were incomplete at Morgan
> Memorial Home, 1304 Regency Drive West, Savoy. 217-356-5858

We've had a number of emails about Mark on the ISOA mailing list today.  Joe
Pawlak wrote the following:

: Folks, here is a website that Howard Boagues put together. (For
: new ISOA members, Mark was a long time friend of ISOA and
: participated in many activities with us over the years.
: A true free spirit.)
:
: Classic Mark moment when he almost rolled his Vitesse at the
: Minnesota VTR convention [1998 in Hudson WI] due to a MASSIVE
: rear wheel tuck under (just like old spitties)
:
: http://www.wvbscc.org/citoa/markjoslyn/

The photos on this website truly represent Mark - I never saw him without a
smile on his face.

Yo, Chaps!

Tim Buja - Rockford, IL

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue May 12 20:35:56 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 22:35:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
Message-ID: <90CE3318440341F5BE7152E07F6AB054@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I hooked up my hydraulics for the second or third time now on my TR3.  Both
the brakes and clutch have new lines; but only the new pre-formed brake lines
are stainless steel.  There all mounted including the rebuilt reservoir and
new County Brand Master Cylinders.
     I added brake fluid to the centermost tube part of the reservoir (brake
fluid for the brakes only) and unfortunately it leaked into the outer chamber
(same fluid but intended for the clutch) after about 1 1/2 days.  Some folks
might find this 'slow transfer of fluid between cl. & brk. chambers'
unthinkable, I hope the "law" isin't among them who feel this way.  I think it
might be ok since the reservoir can (itself) does not leak. Neither do the
lines running between the reservoir and mc's. Once on the road, I'll be
diligent to inspect the level in this reservoir (for safety's sake).
      I remember when 'JustBrit Ed' told me to stay out of his state due to my
confession of brake caliper splitting.  I hope this 'brake fluid transfer'
doesn't cause a similiar reaction... or am I wrong?

Thanks, Paul

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Tue May 12 20:52:42 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 19:52:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] A few TR4 /  4A parts
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2663.1241874619.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2663.1241874619.14231.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7956B78D65FC4D009033256A0C506701@Gateway1>

Looking to sell the fiberglass hardtop and IRS differential from my 67 4A.
The hardtop would fit the 4 as well as the 6, I believe. Never had it on my
car, so I never bothered to restore it.
Differential was a spare, and has a 6 rear cover on it. However one of the
mounting points on that cover has a crack in it.
Happy to store the parts, but I'm looking to raise some cash for a new
project.
Hardtop - $250
Diff - $150
Brian
308gtsi at roadrunner.com

From wbmcleod at gmail.com  Mon May 11 04:04:51 2009
From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod)
Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 03:04:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W19A7A41A7434FAA7E774C4E1630@phx.gbl>
References: <d08.55a8aa92.373890ee@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W19A7A41A7434FAA7E774C4E1630@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7445A928-83C1-4D9E-9F6B-2A1A49339DF5@gmail.com>

Of course there is also the 948 cc TR10, the forerunner to the big  
Dodge motors of today.

Bill
Slightly Classics
Tucson

TR4 and as of today, a Spitsix.


On May 10, 2009, at 5:19 PM, Rich White wrote:

> I would think it would still have 4 because the TR5 would the five  
> cyclinder.
>
> How big was the hood of a TR250?!?
>
>
>
> This thread has to be correct because as someone already said the  
> TR4 had 4,
> the TR6 has six and the TR8 had eight!
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
>
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
>
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
> See it moves!
>
>
>
>
>> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
>> Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 16:19:58 -0400
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>>
>> In a message dated 5/9/2009 9:05:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
>> peterschop at aol.com writes:
>>> I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six
>>> cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three.
>>>
>>
>> If that's the case, how many cylinders does a TR4A have?
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> ;-)
>> _______________________________________________

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue May 12 22:41:50 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 21:41:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting A-type Overdrive
Message-ID: <103465.57361.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Dang! My wife drove my TR without asking me today and when I drove the
car tonight, the OD won't engage. When you flick the switch, there is nothing.
I suspect something electrical. I have a spare switch that I know works and
also a new solenoid, so I can change them out one at a time to see if that is
the problem. I can also check for power output on the relay. Are there any
other obvious things to check?     Is it possible to check and replace the OD
solenoid with the transmission tunnel on?     Going from having overdrive and
then back to a 4 speed is a bummer.
     Bill in Tehachapi

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed May 13 00:08:31 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 00:08:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 help wanted
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1242064801.15021.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1242064801.15021.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <59CBE995-6905-46FC-902D-E213871B1796@telus.net>

It has like 4 eh...    At least in eastern Canada


On 11-May-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
>
> In a message dated 5/9/2009 9:05:26 PM Central Daylight Time,
> peterschop at aol.com writes:
>> I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six
>> cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three.
>>
>
> If that's the case, how many cylinders does a TR4A have?

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed May 13 06:22:53 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 08:22:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] test - please delete
Message-ID: <d26.2ec6b312.373c159d@aol.com>

**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed May 13 06:24:45 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 08:24:45 EDT
Subject: [TR] Non TR
Message-ID: <d5c.3c4c22d9.373c160d@aol.com>

List,
 
This is definitely non-Triumph related but a general lesson can be learned  
and applied to our LBCs.......my daughter's 1999 Honda's Check Engine light 
came  on a month ago.  I did the easy (seldom ever works) attempt at 
clearing the  trouble code by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting - the 
light came back  on.  Since the car seemed to run okay, I told her to head over 
to a shop  offering a free engine light code check.  They came back with 
code#  P1337 which translated to "no signal from the crank position sensor".   
Their recommendation was replacement of the part for $335.  She went to  
another "freebee check engine light" shop and they confirmed the code and had 
a  similar recommendation.
 
A few Honda chat rooms on the web had great explanations of what the sensor 
 gizmo does and had advice on how to replace the sensor yourself.  But,  
since we Brit car mechanics and tinkerers know that problems are often simpler 
 than complex, I realized that the trouble code was telling the computer 
that  there was either an open (disconnected/broken) wire from the sensor to  
the computer or the sensor wires had become grounded somehow.
 
So, armed with flashlights and a small mirror (it's really dark on the  
drive belt side of these FWD engines), I found that the wiring harness to  the 
sensor had come free from it's snug mounting on the timing belt cover  and 
had been rubbing on the drive belt to the point where the belt wore a  hole 
through the harness cover and then the wire insulation fusing the  two sensor 
wires (now bare) together.
 
Splicing a piece of wire between the bad spot and the rest of the harness  
wasn't easy since there's not much room to move your hands down there but I 
got  it done and the code went away.  Honda has a good means of securing the 
 harness.  More than likely (although hard to prove at this point) the  
mechanic who replaced my daughter's timing belt last year was careless and  
didn't secure the harness properly.
 
Lesson to be learned.......when your engine light comes on (and you don't  
have a scan tool) - (HA, HA, HA - this is definitely not going to happen in 
our  Triumphs), find a shop that will read the trouble code, look the code 
up on the  internet and look for the smoking gun (simple problem) before 
jumping into a  major repair.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U

**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 13 07:48:03 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 06:48:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
In-Reply-To: <90CE3318440341F5BE7152E07F6AB054@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <90CE3318440341F5BE7152E07F6AB054@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <DFDE7A25B6044CEB8560D103145A3F78@Meislaptop>

> I think it might be ok since the reservoir can (itself) does not leak. 

It might be.

But being way down low like it is, and exposed to dust and dirt from the
road not to mention engine heat; the clutch slave on a TR is rather prone to
start leaking.  If it does, it will suck the clutch portion of the reservoir
dry.  If the partition leaks, it will also suck the brake portion dry.  All
this can happen without your touching the clutch or brake pedal.

And if you are already rolling down the freeway when that happens, stopping
to check it might be a problem.

I suppose we all take risks (even driving a TR3 is a risk compared to a
modern car); but personally I would want to fix that.  Other than having to
drain the reservoir, it should be an easy fix.  There is supposed to be a
soft (silicone perhaps) washer between the end of the circular partition and
the bottom of the reservoir.

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed May 13 08:57:27 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 07:57:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting A-type Overdrive
In-Reply-To: <103465.57361.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <103465.57361.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905130757x1425a640p4de37c1a97b14542@mail.gmail.com>

I would start by just offering power to the solenoid (yellow/purple I think)
and see if it clicks.  If yes then check out the relay, switch and lock-out
switches one by one.  All this should be possible with the tunnel in situ.

I have heard someone say they have replaced the solenoid w/o removing the
tunnel by getting underneath with an assortment of shoot-around-the-corner
wrenches but it can't be much fun.

I added a rectangular hole in the tunnel to allow access to that area.
Covered with a sheet metal plate when not in use:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Tunnel%20Holes.JPG

Geo

On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 9:41 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

>     Dang! My wife drove my TR without asking me today and when I drove the
> car tonight, the OD won't engage.

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 13 09:57:33 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 09:57:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
In-Reply-To: <90CE3318440341F5BE7152E07F6AB054@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <592327.59788.bm@omp417.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have often wondered about this logic of two separate chambers for the
fluid.  It would seem to me that to have the full capacity of the can
available would be the safer route, especially for the brakes.  Or the
greater fear that there is more exposure to failure of both systems should
one system fail?

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 8:36 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!

I hooked up my hydraulics for the second or third time now on my TR3.  Both
the brakes and clutch have new lines; but only the new pre-formed brake
lines are stainless steel.  There all mounted including the rebuilt
reservoir and new County Brand Master Cylinders.
     I added brake fluid to the centermost tube part of the reservoir (brake
fluid for the brakes only) and unfortunately it leaked into the outer
chamber (same fluid but intended for the clutch) after about 1 1/2 days.
Some folks might find this 'slow transfer of fluid between cl. & brk.
chambers'
unthinkable, I hope the "law" isin't among them who feel this way.  I think
it might be ok since the reservoir can (itself) does not leak. Neither do
the lines running between the reservoir and mc's. Once on the road, I'll be
diligent to inspect the level in this reservoir (for safety's sake).
      I remember when 'JustBrit Ed' told me to stay out of his state due to
my confession of brake caliper splitting.  I hope this 'brake fluid
transfer'
doesn't cause a similiar reaction... or am I wrong?

Thanks, Paul
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Wed May 13 10:54:41 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 09:54:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
In-Reply-To: <DFDE7A25B6044CEB8560D103145A3F78@Meislaptop>
References: <90CE3318440341F5BE7152E07F6AB054@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<DFDE7A25B6044CEB8560D103145A3F78@Meislaptop>
Message-ID: <4A0AFB51.1050806@comcast.net>

Paul,

Testing for leaks between the two sections of the reservoir  is pretty
creative. I didn't think to do that when I put mine back together, and I
bet that most people haven't either.

I do have to agree with Randall. Now is the best time to fix it.

With a slow leak between the two halves, you are OK if you have a sudden
catastrophic failure of the clutch circuit. If you have a slow leak that
takes a few days to drain the reservoir, both halves will go down
together and all of the sudden you will be without brakes.

Following your emails, I bet you are getting tired of messing around
with the brakes and clutch. Once you get all of the issues fixed it
should be a long time before you have to do anything more. :-)

Mike

Randall wrote:
>> I think it might be ok since the reservoir can (itself) does not leak. 
>>     
>
> It might be.
>
> But being way down low like it is, and exposed to dust and dirt from the
> road not to mention engine heat; the clutch slave on a TR is rather prone to
> start leaking.  If it does, it will suck the clutch portion of the reservoir
> dry.  If the partition leaks, it will also suck the brake portion dry.  All
> this can happen without your touching the clutch or brake pedal.
>
> And if you are already rolling down the freeway when that happens, stopping
> to check it might be a problem.
>
> I suppose we all take risks (even driving a TR3 is a risk compared to a
> modern car); but personally I would want to fix that.  Other than having to
> drain the reservoir, it should be an easy fix.  There is supposed to be a
> soft (silicone perhaps) washer between the end of the circular partition and
> the bottom of the reservoir.
>
> Randall

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Wed May 13 10:19:53 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 09:19:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905130919530.11786@hymn11.u.washington.edu>

>I have often wondered about this logic of two separate chambers for the
>fluid.  It would seem to me that to have the full capacity of the can
>available would be the safer route, especially for the brakes.  Or the
>greater fear that there is more exposure to failure of both systems should
>one system fail?
>
>Bill Beecher

   I think it's partly for the latter reason, and partly so that when you have separate reservoirs, you can tell which system is leaking.
   The BMW 2002 has an interesting variation, if I recall correctly.  Clutch and brakes share the same fluid, but the clutch hose is connected higher on the side of the reservoir.  If you've got a leak, you'll lose the clutch first before the brakes are affected.  An early warning system!
-Nick
Seattle
'62-ish TR4

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Wed May 13 11:24:25 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 10:24:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
In-Reply-To: <4A0AFB51.1050806@comcast.net>
References: <90CE3318440341F5BE7152E07F6AB054@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<DFDE7A25B6044CEB8560D103145A3F78@Meislaptop>
	<4A0AFB51.1050806@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A0B0249.8050302@comcast.net>

Paul,

By the way, if it turns out to be a leak in one of the crimped seams
rather than the sealing washers, I have a used inner reservoir that you
can have.

Mike

Michael Lang wrote:
> Paul,
>
> Testing for leaks between the two sections of the reservoir  is pretty
> creative. I didn't think to do that when I put mine back together, and I
> bet that most people haven't either.
>
> I do have to agree with Randall. Now is the best time to fix it.
>
> With a slow leak between the two halves, you are OK if you have a sudden
> catastrophic failure of the clutch circuit. If you have a slow leak that
> takes a few days to drain the reservoir, both halves will go down
> together and all of the sudden you will be without brakes.
>
> Following your emails, I bet you are getting tired of messing around
> with the brakes and clutch. Once you get all of the issues fixed it
> should be a long time before you have to do anything more. :-)
>
> Mike

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 13 11:53:47 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:53:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
In-Reply-To: <592327.59788.bm@omp417.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1557007053.9167411242237227289.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I have often wondered about this logic of two separate chambers for
> the
> fluid.  It would seem to me that to have the full capacity of the can
> available would be the safer route, especially for the brakes.  Or
> the
> greater fear that there is more exposure to failure of both systems
> should
> one system fail?

Sure.  A clutch failure taking out your brakes is no picnic. The systems on my TR4 are completely separate, and that's the way I like it.

Of course, both the TR4 and my Seven have single-system brakes, but that's another story.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed May 13 12:03:45 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 14:03:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
References: <592327.59788.bm@omp417.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001701c9d3f5$28e84a10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>

>I have often wondered about this logic of two separate chambers for the
> fluid....Or the greater fear that there is more exposure to failure of 
> both
> systems should one system fail?

Well I'd personally rather not lose my brakes because my clutch sprung a 
leak, but that's just me. 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed May 13 15:14:08 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:14:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] Earliest 1972 TR6
Message-ID: <c27.5e62f16d.373c9220@aol.com>

List,
 
A friend on mine acquired an early 1972 TR6 (CC75031L) and was wondering if 
 he may have the earliest 1972 TR6 exported to the USA.  According to  
records I've found, the commission number for the first 1972 TR6 would have been 
 CC75001.  I suppose the archivists in the UK may have a better shot at 
this  question but if anyone on the list has a '72 with a commission number 
between  CC75001 and CC75030, it would be interesting to hear from you!
 
P.S. If I don't respond to your reply right away, bear with me.....for some 
 reason my AOL account is sending my Triumph List emails to my SPAM folder. 
  I have the SPAM filter on Low so I guess the next step will be to turn it 
off  altogether??
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Wed May 13 16:22:32 2009
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:22:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Earliest 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <c27.5e62f16d.373c9220@aol.com>
References: <c27.5e62f16d.373c9220@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CBA230718A7F2A-1B40-964@FWM-D05.sysops.aol.com>

 Chip,

AOL is doing the same thing to me.? I am living with it for a bit to see if it "corrects" itself.

Aaron


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Chip19474 at aol.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, 13 May 2009 5:14 pm
Subject: [TR] Earliest 1972 TR6










List,
 
A friend on mine acquired an early 1972 TR6 (CC75031L) and was wondering if 
 he may have the earliest 1972 TR6 exported to the USA.  According to  
records I've found, the commission number for the first 1972 TR6 would have been 

 CC75001.  I suppose the archivists in the UK may have a better shot at 
this  question but if anyone on the list has a '72 with a commission number 
between  CC75001 and CC75030, it would be interesting to hear from you!
 
P.S. If I don't respond to your reply right away, bear with me.....for some 
 reason my AOL account is sending my Triumph List emails to my SPAM folder. 
  I have the SPAM filter on Low so I guess the next step will be to turn it 
off  altogether??
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed May 13 16:34:19 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:34:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
References: <592327.59788.bm@omp417.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<001701c9d3f5$28e84a10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <F06C497597FC4B0B999A325F9091D2EF@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I might correct the problem.  The BMW solution makes me want to turn my 
reservoir sideways...<grin>
Seriously, I wonder if such a can is easy to find?

Also, won't you readily find out the hard way if it's a clutch problem 
causing the leak because the clutch will stop working  correctly.  If my 
clutch stopped working I'd first check the can!

Thanks, Paul


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nolan" <opposumking at verizon.net>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Stay away from California!


> >I have often wondered about this logic of two separate chambers for the
>> fluid....Or the greater fear that there is more exposure to failure of 
>> both
>> systems should one system fail?
>
> Well I'd personally rather not lose my brakes because my clutch sprung a 
> leak, but that's just me. _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From mdporter at dfn.com  Wed May 13 16:37:44 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 16:37:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] [PHISH]Re:  Earliest 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <8CBA230718A7F2A-1B40-964@FWM-D05.sysops.aol.com>
References: <c27.5e62f16d.373c9220@aol.com>
	<8CBA230718A7F2A-1B40-964@FWM-D05.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A0B4BB8.7040801@dfn.com>

acekraut11 at aol.com wrote:
>  Chip,
>
> AOL is doing the same thing to me.? I am living with it for a bit to see if it "corrects" itself.
>
>   

Mark can speak more directly to the problem, but, I suspect that because 
Mark went to a new broadband provider, the IP changed and AOL, all over 
again, sees the IP as a new spammer.  Mark will probably have to go to 
AOL again and explain it to them again, for the umpteenth time.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed May 13 16:58:59 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 22:58:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
In-Reply-To: <1557007053.9167411242237227289.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1983815254.6267481242255539756.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I realize the outer compartment is larger and feeds the brakes, but I have
often wondered would it not be better to reverse the set up:B  that way, if
something were to pierce the canister for whatever reason, the clutch might go
out, but at least the brakes would be preserved.



Andrew Uprichard

In England, but unfortunately not enough time to enjoy it


----- Original Message -----
From: pethier at comcast.net
To: "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 1:53:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [TR] Stay away from California!

----- "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I have often wondered about this logic of two separate chambers for
> the
> fluid. B It would seem to me that to have the full capacity of the can
> available would be the safer route, especially for the brakes. B Or
> the
> greater fear that there is more exposure to failure of both systems
> should
> one system fail?

Sure. B A clutch failure taking out your brakes is no picnic. The systems on
my TR4 are completely separate, and that's the way I like it.

Of course, both the TR4 and my Seven have single-system brakes, but that's
another story.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L B  1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban B 1994 Miata C-package B 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums B  http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com  Wed May 13 17:00:03 2009
From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 19:00:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] [PHISH]Re:  Earliest 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <4A0B4BB8.7040801@dfn.com>
References: <c27.5e62f16d.373c9220@aol.com>
	<8CBA230718A7F2A-1B40-964@FWM-D05.sysops.aol.com>
	<4A0B4BB8.7040801@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106EC06F151@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

Mark,
If you contact me off-list, I may be able to assist with getting your new
email servers white-listed on the AOL side.

Jim



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Porter
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 6:38 PM
To: acekraut11 at aol.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Chip19474 at aol.com
Subject: Re: [TR] [PHISH]Re: Earliest 1972 TR6

acekraut11 at aol.com wrote:
>  Chip,
>
> AOL is doing the same thing to me.? I am living with it for a bit to see if
it "corrects" itself.
>
>

Mark can speak more directly to the problem, but, I suspect that because
Mark went to a new broadband provider, the IP changed and AOL, all over
again, sees the IP as a new spammer.  Mark will probably have to go to
AOL again and explain it to them again, for the umpteenth time.


Cheers.

--


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
distance....
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jim.holmgren at corp.aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

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From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed May 13 17:01:34 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 23:01:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
In-Reply-To: <4A0B4BB8.7040801@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <903051115.9309521242255694214.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hmmm....



Pressing the horn button results in nothing more than a minor "thunk." This
happens with each horn with the other horn disconnected.



I've tested voltage to the horns.B  It's good, so am pretty much thinking it's
a ground problem through the horn switch.B  Both horns are new, were working
fine up to a week ago, and aren't that much out of adjustment both at the same
time, I should think.B But before I (omigod) remove the olive and pull the
control head out of the stator tube, any other thoughts?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed May 13 17:26:22 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 19:26:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] More about 'compartmental transfer'!
Message-ID: <9AC9FBD507D34887947B56360A2AF30A@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

As you know, I am moving incrementally slow here while filling my brake
reservoir...

I first filled just the brake's bf, and after a day and a half later it seemed
to try and equalize levels with the clutch bf letting me know that I may have
'compartmental transfer' (Although the reservoir itself does not leak).

A day ago, I concluded the above and wrote about the observation.  At this
time,  I also filled both chambers completely to the brim.

Today, both chambers levels have gone down; the clutch's has gone the most
down (over half way).  I am not in a hurry.  The car is on scaffolding so that
I haven't gotten under it to check for possible leakage.  This rate of
depletion of bf is proably perfectly normal.  Both c&b pedals are completely
up and have  never been touched during this procedure. All hydraulic lines
have been run.
    What this is telling me is that both b&c systems are graddually filling up
of their own accord.  Maybe just their MC's.  I know that they won't bleed
themselves!  But, this may account for the previously seen 'compartmental
transfer'.  I guess this may go on for another day or so.  Am I right in
thinking this is normal?  Does it indicate a leak or an open brake or clutch
bleeder nipple?  Certainly, it won't bleed itself will it? (Proably just make
the job a little easier.)

Thanks, Paul

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed May 13 18:28:56 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:28:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
In-Reply-To: <903051115.9309521242255694214.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4A0B4BB8.7040801@dfn.com>
	<903051115.9309521242255694214.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905131728x5a10a6d5j3e18dc81575d794b@mail.gmail.com>

I would certainly offer a ground to the horns and confirm they work.  Then
check the ground created by the horn wire coming out of the bottom of the
stator tube.  I would save pulling the tube for a last step when all else
checks out fine.

Geo

On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 4:01 PM, <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:

> Pressing the horn button results in nothing more than a minor "thunk." This
> happens with each horn with the other horn disconnected.
>
> ...But before I (omigod) remove the olive and pull the
> control head out of the stator tube, any other thoughts?

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed May 13 18:29:38 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:29:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <001701c9d3f5$28e84a10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <4A0B2DB2.30345.112B23A3@localhost>

On 13 May 2009 at 14:03, Nolan wrote:

> Well I'd personally rather not lose my brakes because my clutch
> sprung a leak, but that's just me.

Same here.  I've never (knock on wooden dashboard and wooden head) 
had brake failure but I did experience clutch hydraulics failure 
years ago.  We were in the Spitfire top-down and had just pulled off 
the road to check some directions, when a wicked big dog came tearing 
around the nearest house, seriously angry, showing his teeth and 
barking with sense of purpose.  But the car wouldn't go into gear!  
Fortunately a sense of panic made me double-pump the clutch pedal and 
that did the trick.  When I go home I found my left shoe was covered 
with brake fluif.  So it was the MC, not the SC, even though the SC 
is more exposed to the road.

So I got to thinking about why the clutch system would fail.  A bit 
of analysis says that the clutch gets far more use than the brake.  
At every stop you hit the brakes maybe once or twice, not necessarily 
full displacement of the pedal.  But when you pull away from that 
stop you always use the clutch at least once to go into 1st then 
again to go into 2nd.  It heavy traffic it may be even more.  Often 
you use it once or twice more to go into 3rd or 4th.  On the road you 
may shift around between the higher gears without using the brake at 
all.  Every clutch operation should be done with full displacement of 
the pedal.  It wouldn't surprise me if the clutch seals gets 3 to 5 
times as much wear as the brake seals.

I'd rather not have my brakes dependent on another system that is 
that much more likely to leak.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed May 13 19:01:02 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:01:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Arrgghhh.
Message-ID: <a0624080bc6311bead627@[192.168.2.2]>

Is there ANY possibility that a TR3 high torque starter will work in 
a TR6 ... CONCOURS on Sunday, car (TR6)  ran great yesterday, drove 
it a few miles to dry all the water from the frame, wheels, oh you 
know all that sort of stuff.  Today ... ah today ... battery appeared 
to be dead, dead, dead.  The ignition light would not ... light, 
even.  Hooked it up to my trusty Craftsman charger, set in on "Start 
Engine" ... click, click, click.   Switched to rapid charge, waited 3 
hours, clickety,clickety,clickety ...   Will leave on on charger all 
night, but as a drastic Plan B, am wondering if  I can switch the 
starter from the TR3, and have it work at least through Sunday.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed May 13 19:02:14 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:02:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
Message-ID: <d4f.51130ba5.373cc796@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/13/2009 7:27:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
auprichard at comcast.net writes:

if
something were to pierce the canister for whatever reason, the  clutch 
might go
out, but at least the brakes would be  preserved.



If something were to pierce the fluid canister on the top of the  bulkhead 
I think it is too late for the brakes anyway.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed May 13 19:45:13 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:45:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
In-Reply-To: <903051115.9309521242255694214.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090513214513.UB1KA.2636656.root@mp15>

---- terryrs at comcast.net wrote: 

> Pressing the horn button results in nothing more than a minor "thunk." This
> happens with each horn with the other horn disconnected.

I once spent 45 minutes diagnosing a short in the brake lights, only to discover that they both burnt out at the same time.

Just because you don't think both horns went out of adjustment at the same time, doesn't mean they didn't'...besides, it's easy enough to check one, right?  Easier than that stator tube thing.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed May 13 19:56:47 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:56:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <4A0B2DB2.30345.112B23A3@localhost>
Message-ID: <20090513215647.GUK56.2637394.root@mp15>

---- Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote: 
> On 13 May 2009 at 14:03, Nolan wrote:
> 
> > Well I'd personally rather not lose my brakes because my clutch
> > sprung a leak, but that's just me.
> 
> Same here.  I've never (knock on wooden dashboard and wooden head) 
> had brake failure 

I have.  

I was driving my 1967 VW Bus, headed down a highway off-ramp at a good clip...I hit the pedal and the main pipe in the single-circuit brake system exploded.  In the time it took for the brake pedal to bang on the floorboard, I was transformed from driver to passenger.

Brakes are too important to take short cuts with, or to say "good enough".  If you've got a problem, fix it.  If you need a new, expensive part, buy it.  I spent more money on a proctologist to get the driver's seat out of my backside that I ever would have spent on a brand-new gold-plated brake system.

Jeff Scarbrough
Never Again, Ga.

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 13 20:01:40 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:01:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
In-Reply-To: <1983815254.6267481242255539756.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090514020200.9ECB7187670@autox.team.net>

Andrew,
If something were to come up and pierce that canister, my guess your best
option at that point would be prayer!
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

  _____  

From: auprichard at comcast.net [mailto:auprichard at comcast.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 4:59 PM
To: pethier at comcast.net
Cc: list Triumph; Wbeech at flash.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Stay away from California!



I realize the outer compartment is larger and feeds the brakes, but I have
often wondered would it not be better to reverse the set up:  that way, if
something were to pierce the canister for whatever reason, the clutch might
go out, but at least the brakes would be preserved.

 

Andrew Uprichard 

In England, but unfortunately not enough time to enjoy it


----- Original Message -----
From: pethier at comcast.net
To: "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
Cc: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 1:53:47 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [TR] Stay away from California!

----- "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I have often wondered about this logic of two separate chambers for
> the
> fluid.  It would seem to me that to have the full capacity of the can
> available would be the safer route, especially for the brakes.  Or
> the
> greater fear that there is more exposure to failure of both systems
> should
> one system fail?

Sure.  A clutch failure taking out your brakes is no picnic. The systems on
my TR4 are completely separate, and that's the way I like it.

Of course, both the TR4 and my Seven have single-system brakes, but that's
another story.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Wed May 13 20:10:36 2009
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 22:10:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] [PHISH]Re:  Earliest 1972 TR6
Message-ID: <d51.4aa5815c.373cd79c@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/13/2009 7:27:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com writes:

Mark,
If you contact me off-list, I may be able to assist with  getting your new
email servers white-listed on the AOL  side.
 
==AM==
The change of Team.Net's ISP might not be the only factor. AOL seems to  
have been doing weird things on their own this week. I had to "reconfigure"  
settings on several of my screen names on the web access version of AOL.  
Meanwhile, about 85% of Team.Net mail gets through to my AOL accounts, and 
about  15% is in my spam folders. As always, AOL is free...and you get what you  
pay for! :-)
 
(No offense, Jim; I really have been pretty happy with AOL over the  years!)
 
--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed May 13 20:13:29 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:13:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting A-type Overdrive
In-Reply-To: <103465.57361.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <103465.57361.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <246971C4-2CE9-4B7A-B106-C4A36BC2BEA0@comcast.net>

Bill,

Your thought about checking power at the relay is a good place to  
start.  With the key in the run position and the OD lever engaged you  
should have power at the purple/yellow wire on the relay.  If you do  
have power at the P/W wire and still no OD kicking in then it'll be  
time to crawl under the tranny and start checking things there.  Dan  
Masters has a great flow chart in his book to diagnose A-type OD  
problems.

I would never have figured out that I had both a bad switch (actually  
the wire to the switch had fatigued and even though broken would  
occasionally touch together enough to engage the OD...the infamous  
intermittent problem), AND a bad relay if I hadn't had Dan's  
meticulous instructions.   Let me know if you don't have access to a  
copy and I'll try to help.  I hate it when things go bad in twos or  
threes.  I wonder if the bad ground at the switch caused the relay  
some grief and made it go bad...or maybe that they were 38 yo parts  
had something to do with it?


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On May 12, 2009, at 10:41 PM, William Brewer wrote:

>     Dang! My wife drove my TR without asking me today and when I  
> drove the
> car tonight, the OD won't engage. When you flick the switch, there  
> is nothing.
> I suspect something electrical. I have a spare switch that I know  
> works and
> also a new solenoid, so I can change them out one at a time to see  
> if that is
> the problem. I can also check for power output on the relay. Are  
> there any
> other obvious things to check?     Is it possible to check and  
> replace the OD
> solenoid with the transmission tunnel on?     Going from having  
> overdrive and
> then back to a 4 speed is a bummer.
>     Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed May 13 20:16:54 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:16:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting A-type Overdrive
In-Reply-To: <103465.57361.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <103465.57361.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DABE6636-7671-410C-984F-B7D72ADFEB28@comcast.net>

Bill,

One other thing.  Sometimes the OD wiring harness bullet connectors in  
the passenger footwell can get disconnected by getting kicked or by  
looking at them wrong.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On May 12, 2009, at 10:41 PM, William Brewer wrote:

>     Dang! My wife drove my TR without asking me today and when I  
> drove the
> car tonight, the OD won't engage. When you flick the switch, there  
> is nothing.
> I suspect something electrical. I have a spare switch that I know  
> works and
> also a new solenoid, so I can change them out one at a time to see  
> if that is
> the problem. I can also check for power output on the relay. Are  
> there any
> other obvious things to check?     Is it possible to check and  
> replace the OD
> solenoid with the transmission tunnel on?     Going from having  
> overdrive and
> then back to a 4 speed is a bummer.
>     Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed May 13 20:36:29 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 22:36:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Arrgghhh.
In-Reply-To: <a0624080bc6311bead627@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <4A0B4B6D.10751.119F48FA@localhost>

On 13 May 2009 at 18:01, Bill wrote:

>  Today ... ah today ... battery appeared 
> to be dead, dead, dead.  The ignition light would not ... light, 
> even.  Hooked it up to my trusty Craftsman charger, set in on "Start 
> Engine" ... click, click, click. 

That sounds remarkably like an issue I had with my Spitifre.  
Starting got harder and harder until eventually even my trusty 
portable starter battery wouldn't help.  It appeared to be bad wiring 
or solenoid or ground.  Yet bypassing them didn't help.  The problem 
was thoroughly worn brushes in the motor.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Wed May 13 20:46:29 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 19:46:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905131946290.10091@hymn14.u.washington.edu>

Hi everybody
   It's been a while since we had any early-TR4 questions, so here goes.
   On the "very early" cars, according to Piggot, the windshield cap and cockpit perimeter trim pieces were chrome-plated brass.  This changed quickly to the much more common anodized aluminum pieces.
   I have located what might be an early chrome-plated windshield cap, and I need a little help:

1. Are the early pieces magnetic at all?  Piggot says it's brass under there, so there should not be any attraction... but I've heard it said on this list that the parts are actually chrome-plated steel.  The seller says he's not sure if there is any attraction or not.  Maybe it's stainless steel?
2. Are there any visual differences between the early and later parts, other than shinyness?  (I have seen this on a couple of early cars... too bad I wasn't paying closer attention)
3. When did the switch to aluminum occur?
4. What's an early windshield cap worth?

   Thanks!
-Nick
Seattle, WA
'62-ish TR4 (probably '61... long story)

From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com  Wed May 13 21:19:38 2009
From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 23:19:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] [PHISH]Re:  Earliest 1972 TR6
In-Reply-To: <d51.4aa5815c.373cd79c@aol.com>
References: <d51.4aa5815c.373cd79c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106EC06F156@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

No offence taken at all Andy.  I'm not a 'native' AOLer, I come to them via
corporate acquisition a couple of years ago.

Unfortunately I work on the Enterprise side of the house (internal IT) as
opposed to the Production/Customer facing side.  I don't have any close
contacts over on the customer mail team, but I could do a little digging to
find someone if it becomes a real problem.

Actually they do have a nice feature where - if your message is flat-out
rejected as spam - the NDR (non-delivery report) you get has a link right in
it with instructions on how to get yourself 'white listed'.

In this case, it sounds like the Spam 'score' is just high enough on some
messages to have the client tag it as spam.

Jim

From: ZoboHerald at aol.com [mailto:ZoboHerald at aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 10:11 PM
To: Jim Holmgren; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [PHISH]Re: Earliest 1972 TR6

In a message dated 5/13/2009 7:27:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com writes:
Mark,
If you contact me off-list, I may be able to assist with getting your new
email servers white-listed on the AOL side.

==AM==
The change of Team.Net's ISP might not be the only factor. AOL seems to have
been doing weird things on their own this week. I had to "reconfigure"
settings on several of my screen names on the web access version of AOL.
Meanwhile, about 85% of Team.Net mail gets through to my AOL accounts, and
about 15% is in my spam folders. As always, AOL is free...and you get what you
pay for! :-)

(No offense, Jim; I really have been pretty happy with AOL over the years!)

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org<http://www.vtr.org/>

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us<http://triumph-herald.us/>

________________________________
Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after instant
savings!<http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?re
dir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi>

________________________________
The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s)
or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or
privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use
of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or
entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this
email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email
from any computer.

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Wed May 13 21:26:01 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 23:26:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Arrgghhh.
In-Reply-To: <4A0B4B6D.10751.119F48FA@localhost>
References: <a0624080bc6311bead627@192.168.2.2>
	<4A0B4B6D.10751.119F48FA@localhost>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770905132026l406ad839g5af00715f8799b1@mail.gmail.com>

Wow - thanks for that!  you just made me remember something...    I had a
similar experience - but had one of the brush mountings break.   It would
crank very slowly and I eventually went to the largest battery I could fit
thinking that would solve the problem.....

I was in a hurry to finish the car and get to my great uncles birthday
(original owner) and at 3 am the night before patched the starter with some
screws and a piece of brass -just realized  It's been over 13 years since
and still going strong.

It works much better with both brushes working!!!  I should get one of these
gear reduction starter, shouldn't I?

Chris

On Wed, May 13, 2009 at 10:36 PM, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> On 13 May 2009 at 18:01, Bill wrote:
>
> >  Today ... ah today ... battery appeared
> > to be dead, dead, dead.  The ignition light would not ... light,
> > even.  Hooked it up to my trusty Craftsman charger, set in on "Start
> > Engine" ... click, click, click.
>
> That sounds remarkably like an issue I had with my Spitifre.
> Starting got harder and harder until eventually even my trusty
> portable starter battery wouldn't help.  It appeared to be bad wiring
> or solenoid or ground.  Yet bypassing them didn't help.  The problem
> was thoroughly worn brushes in the motor.
>
> --
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as ccsimonsen at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed May 13 21:40:59 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:40:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ignition Switch Tumble Replacement
Message-ID: <20090514034119.2A9CF187655@autox.team.net>

Hello List,
 
I bought the complete locks & handles kit from Moss and everything was going
fine until I tried to replace the tumbler in the ignition switch.  I poked a
screwdriver into the little hole and removed the old tumbler, the spring pin
was pretty shot, but the new tumbler will not go in all the way as the
spring pin seems to be preventing it from sliding into place.
 
Is there any way to retract the spring pin while you insert the tumbler then
release once it is in place?
 
Thanks,
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 13 21:47:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:47:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
In-Reply-To: <903051115.9309521242255694214.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <4A0B4BB8.7040801@dfn.com>
	<903051115.9309521242255694214.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0A5BA4CCC9C64FE98C94C65F9726B836@Meislaptop>

> I've tested voltage to the horns.

TR3 horns take more than voltage; they also need current and LOTS of it.  I
would suggest metering the power supply right at the horns while trying to
operate them.  If they aren't getting at least 11 volts, the problem is on
the supply side.

> But before I (omigod) remove the olive and pull the
> control head out of the stator tube

Probably you already know this; but JIC, it is not necessary to disturb the
olive in order to pull the control head out.  Just unclip the harness from
the inner fender and you should have enough slack to pull the control head
away from the steering wheel enough to work on it.  If you need more room,
disconnect the wires and pull them farther through the tube.  The stator
tube can stay in place.

However, I do feel it's slightly easier to remove the tube if you need to
remove the control head completely from the car, instead of having to fish
the wires back through the tube.

>, any other thoughts?

On my TR3A, I eventually traced the "reluctant horn" problem to a bullet
sleeve that was broken internally.  The inner spring clip had cracked and
was not making good contact to the bullet, even though the vinyl sleeve
looked fine.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 13 21:49:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 20:49:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
In-Reply-To: <1983815254.6267481242255539756.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1557007053.9167411242237227289.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1983815254.6267481242255539756.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7499F48ABAA94C05BC8CF4BD72E62442@Meislaptop>

> that way, if
> something were to pierce the canister for whatever reason, the clutch
> might go
> out, but at least the brakes would be preserved.

OTOH, it guarantees that the brake reservoir will run dry at least once as
the front pads wear.  Maybe not such a good idea.

Randall

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Wed May 13 21:50:46 2009
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:50:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Phishing / Spam
Message-ID: <4A0B9516.9000307@shaw.ca>

>  Chip,
> >
> > AOL is doing the same thing to me.? I am living with it for a bit to see if it "corrects" itself.
> >
> >   
>   
>
> Mark can speak more directly to the problem, but, I suspect that because 
> Mark went to a new broadband provider, the IP changed and AOL, all over 
> again, sees the IP as a new spammer.  Mark will probably have to go to 
> AOL again and explain it to them again, for the umpteenth time.
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM
The problem seems to be coming from the following footer on some 
people's emails when ever a digest contains these lines it goes to my 
spam and McAfee flags the link as a Phishing site.

***************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after
instant savings!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)*


Doug Hamilton

1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 13 22:04:09 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:04:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <4A0B2DB2.30345.112B23A3@localhost>
References: <001701c9d3f5$28e84a10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us>
	<4A0B2DB2.30345.112B23A3@localhost>
Message-ID: <30A557A1361340BFA5506A098B292C6D@Meislaptop>

> I've never (knock on wooden dashboard and wooden head)
> had brake failure

Lucky you!  I've been through it several times now, not my favorite
experience.

70 Audi inexplicably had a caliper break, such that the seal pushed out of
the cavity.  Trying to limp home with just the rear brakes provided an
excellent object lesson in just how little they do on a FWD car ... I
must've slid a quarter mile when that woman pulled out in front of me and
stopped.  Fortunately it didn't hurt her bumper when it broke my headlights
<G>

58 TR3A was parked at the top of a hill ... I didn't notice the brakes
didn't work until after I was going downhill into an underground parking
garage with no outlet.  Did everything I knew to stop, including literally
dragging my feet ... still hit the wall at the end hard enough to push the
front apron back into the radiator.  The car wound up getting crushed (but
that's another story).  I've become rather religious about making sure the
handbrake is in A-1 condition.

71 Stag literally on the way to the shop to have (among other things) the MC
rebuilt.  Total failure of both hydraulic systems, followed by the handbrake
fading into uselessness.  Fortunately there was no one coming when I sailed
across the intersection off of the I-10 freeway.  Only casualty was the bent
handbrake lever (it's amazing how strong sheer panic can make one <G>)

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 13 22:08:00 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:08:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ignition Switch Tumble Replacement
In-Reply-To: <20090514034119.2A9CF187655@autox.team.net>
References: <20090514034119.2A9CF187655@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <166273FBCE9E4708BF751298EF023895@Meislaptop>

> Is there any way to retract the spring pin while you insert the tumbler
> then
> release once it is in place?

I don't believe so, Bill.  There should be a ramp on the switch mechanism
that is supposed to depress the pin as you push the cylinder into place.  It
does take a fair amount of force.

Dusting the pin with graphite powder and working it up and down a few times
seems to help.  Beyond that, it just takes a very firm push.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 13 23:39:31 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 22:39:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] SU H6 throttle shaft bushing replacement
In-Reply-To: <BLU105-W15150A3AC8251A1ED3FC64ED620@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU105-W15150A3AC8251A1ED3FC64ED620@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BA237988900F44BBB0B18246E4D363DA@Meislaptop>

> It's time for me to replace the throttle shaft bushes in the SU H6 carbs
> on my
> TR3.  They're leaking a bit and I can't get my idle speed below 1200 RPM.

Have you checked to see what is holding the throttles open?  I wouldn't
expect the leak itself to be the problem; and there can be many other things
that hold them open a bit.  Including having the screws that hold the plates
to the shaft work loose.

> Should I just get four new bushes from Moss and not replace anything more?
> Hoping the wear is in the bushes and not the shafts.

Seems unlikely to me.  One way to tell is after you've stripped the carbs,
reinsert the shafts so the bushings ride on the unworn area and compare the
side play to the normal position.

> Should I put in new shafts also?

I would.  In fact, I would expect the shafts to have most of the wear, this
time around.

>   Will I be able to use micrometers to
> tell if there is wear on my shafts?

Yes, but the test above is easier.  A micrometer isn't really required, even
calipers are plenty to measure any significant wear.  A few .0001" doesn't
matter here.

>   My concern with replacing the shafts is
> drilling
> them for the pin to locate the throttle stops.  Any tips for doing that?

Sorry, I'm no help here.  I did mine "by eye"; goofed the first one up but
fortunately was able to correct my mistake by turning the shaft end-for-end
and trying again.

> Should I install a complete rebuilt kit even though I have no other
> problems?
> I've only got about 25000 miles since the rebuild.  But is 17 years
> getting
> near the end of the life expectancy for seals?

I would like to know how the heck you got that much out of them!  Mine only
seem to last a few years at most.  As far as needles, jets, float valves,
etc.; I'd probably leave them alone if no problems are evident.  That said,
one of the most frustrating (and damaging) TR problems I've ever fought was
caused by jets that were internally worn (presumably from poorly centered
needles by a DPO).  Changing them might turn out to be cheap insurance.

> The shafts that are installed measure 5/16" (.3125").  I'm hoping that is
> the
> standard shaft size

I believe it is.

> and the OD of the bushes Moss sells now is the same as
> those sold 17 years ago.

Sorry, no idea there.  But I doubt you can just drive them out anyway, most
likely they will have to be reamed again.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu May 14 00:33:16 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 06:33:16 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 help wanted
In-Reply-To: <59CBE995-6905-46FC-902D-E213871B1796@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1242064801.15021.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<59CBE995-6905-46FC-902D-E213871B1796@telus.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W667BA91A07EFB7A682066E55E0@phx.gbl>

>> I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six
>> cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three.
>>
>
> If that's the case, how many cylinders does a TR4A have?> It has like 4
eh...    At least in eastern Canada

The 3 was a prototype and the engine was experimental.

Best regards,
Tom





_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Thu May 14 01:44:36 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 09:44:36 +0200
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
References: <903051115.9309521242255694214.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <19B17B5D5C304400846AA4F2D0DCAA9F@Study>

-----Original Message----- 
From: David Brister [mailto:brister at tiscali.fr]
Sent: Tue 26/04/2005 11:59
To: jon.mathias at iname.com
Cc:
Subject: TR Horn earthing.



I put up with this problem for a few years but after adopting the following
rather inelegant solution about 20 years ago the horns have worked perfectly
ever since.
First I made a new plunger thingy. Took the carbon rod from a dry battery
which fitted well into the barrel of an old pen of correct diameter.  Took a
very light compression spring, same one from the old ballpoint, I think. Cut
two pieces 10 mm or so from the carbon rod and glued them to the spring.
They fitted into a piece of the ballpoint barrel cut to the appropriate
length.
Voila! A new plunger thingy.
Next I ground the teeth off an old hacksaw blade and bolted a suitable
length of it to the master cylinders bracket so that the flat bore down on
the upper part of the steering column.
Encore Voila! A perfect earth. No need to fiddle with bits of wire over the
UJ's or steering rack.

HTH, ATB

David Brister, 1967 TR4A (now in it's 30th year with me, and like me feeling
it's age.)



-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 21264 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 14 05:54:58 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 07:54:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 help wanted
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W667BA91A07EFB7A682066E55E0@phx.gbl>
References: <mailman.2.1242064801.15021.triumphs@autox.team.net><59CBE995-6905-46FC-902D-E213871B1796@telus.net>
	<BAY110-W667BA91A07EFB7A682066E55E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CBA2A1F07365C4-9B8-3A7@WEBMAIL-DF08.sysops.aol.com>

>> I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six
>> cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three.
>>
>
> If that's the case, how many cylinders does a TR4A have?> It has like 4
eh...    At least in eastern Canada

The 3 was a prototype and the engine was experimental.

Best regards,
Tom




 


 

A little know fact is the major breakthrough made to the TR2 was the fitting of the Vangard engine in lieu of the one from Briggs and Scrap Iron (Stratton) in the TR1.

;-)

Dave


________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com

From wlsserv at aol.com  Thu May 14 07:10:37 2009
From: wlsserv at aol.com (wlsserv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 09:10:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Phishing / Spam
In-Reply-To: <4A0B9516.9000307@shaw.ca>
References: <4A0B9516.9000307@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <8CBA2AC81B0FD35-17C4-6F4@WEBMAIL-DY37.sysops.aol.com>

FWIW


I just checked the "spam" list on my aol account and marked 27 of today's mail
as "not spam", mayhaps this will correct some of the issues, at least on my end,
the rest seems to be just fine for now.




.
Walt
TR3A,6,1500

From hdrider570 at att.net  Thu May 14 07:11:52 2009
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 06:11:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR]  Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <502519.41259.qm@web83805.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I have a set of these on my early TR4 CT1798L.  Unfortunately I am out of town so I can not try the magnet test.  

There is definitely brass under the chrome as I have a couple of worn spots on the cockpit surrounds.  Whether it is a plating or not I am not sure.  Visually they look smoother than the aluminum pieces and generally don't have the surface scratches that you get on the aluminum.  The chrome is shinier as well as the anodizing has a bit of a matt finish.  They are much heavier as well.  

Most aluminum cockpit surrounds have some bend damage at the B post from catching on clothing.  The chrome ones are much stronger so the few I have seen are undamaged.

No idea as to value.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma Ca

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 14 07:38:56 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 06:38:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] bubble to double
In-Reply-To: <54D4CF9485DC4790BAD2391103946EB2@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <54D4CF9485DC4790BAD2391103946EB2@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <A996B694633049DAB9C0CF4268B5FC9B@Meislaptop>

> is there a chance that I can turn a FLAPS-bought steel 3/16" tubing BUBBLE
> FLARE into a DOUBLE FLARE?

In theory, yes.  In practice it may be impossible.

> If so, how?

Put it in your flaring tool positioned as though you were partway through
the second operation, and complete the operation by forcing the top of the
convex 'bubble' down to become concave.

But I have to think it would be easier to find a double flare line at your
FLAPS.  The pre-made lines seem to be much harder than the flaring tools are
designed to accommodate.  If you really must make your own lines, I'd
suggest buying a coil of fully annealed line from JCW or JEGS or similar.
You might even be able to order it at your FLAPS.

Randall

From wlsserv at aol.com  Thu May 14 08:01:34 2009
From: wlsserv at aol.com (wlsserv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:01:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] email filter
Message-ID: <8CBA2B3A00D3FBA-1114-A4A@FWM-D43.sysops.aol.com>

Looks like I spoke too soon!!? My response about AOL's spam/email filter
blocked my email to the list, from me!

W

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu May 14 08:09:31 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:09:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <30A557A1361340BFA5506A098B292C6D@Meislaptop>
References: <001701c9d3f5$28e84a10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us><4A0B2DB2.30345.112B23A3@localhost>
	<30A557A1361340BFA5506A098B292C6D@Meislaptop>
Message-ID: <8CBA2B4BC568CDD-F58-8C4@MBLK-M14.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>

Lucky you!  I've been through it several times now, not my favorite
experience.

70 Audi inexplicably had a caliper break, such that the seal pushed out of
the cavity...

58 TR3A was parked at the top of a hill ... I didn't notice the brakes
didn't work until after I was going downhill into an underground parking
garage with no outlet.  Did everything I knew to stop, including literally
dragging my feet ... 

71 Stag literally on the way to the shop to have (among other things) the MC
rebuilt.  Total failure of both hydraulic systems, followed by the handbrake
fading into uselessness...

==AM==
[Apologies if you've heard this one before!] 91 Ford Explorer, towing a heavy, "unbraked" trailer loaded with a
Standard Pennant sedan. Hard line to rear brake circuit ruptured. Ultimately had no choice but to drive several
hundred miles with only the front disc brakes of the Explorer stopping upwards of 6000 lbs. + of
rolling steel. Stops were planned WELL in advance.... ;-)

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 14 08:46:38 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 14:46:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <4A0B2DB2.30345.112B23A3@localhost>
Message-ID: <960511354.9554161242312398464.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Almost simultaneously, the clutch master cylinder went out on the TR4 and the clutch slave cylinder went out in the Miata.

Amazingly, I didn't have to bleed the Miata after replacing the clutch slave.  Just jumping madly up and down on the clutch pedal self-bled the system.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 14 09:15:24 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 09:15:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] email filter
In-Reply-To: <8CBA2B3A00D3FBA-1114-A4A@FWM-D43.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <61837.11554.bm@omp416.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

AT&T's filter has blocked my own emails as well, I think it must be some key
word in the content because it doesn't happen all the time.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wlsserv at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:02 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] email filter

Looks like I spoke too soon!!? My response about AOL's spam/email filter
blocked my email to the list, from me!

W
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Thu May 14 10:44:29 2009
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 12:44:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] fuel pump thing
Message-ID: <cc6.4ee8a7af.373da46d@aol.com>

hi guys
Pulled my original mechanical fuel pump apart from my 58 TR3 last night.
Inside the glass bowl I found a cone shaped part made of what might be 
ceramic material. It very much reminds me of the thing you get inside the water 
separator on your compressors hard lines.
I don't see it in any of the workshop manuals, moss catalogue or the 
factory parts book.
Is it original equipment?
If it is what does it do?
thanks
Frank Fisher
 
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 14 10:51:35 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 12:51:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
Message-ID: <c18.5618ef20.373da617@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2009 10:50:15 AM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> Almost simultaneously, the clutch master cylinder went out on the TR4 and 
> the clutch slave cylinder went out in the Miata.

I'm sure it's related but I still haven't figured out how.  ;-)

> 
> Amazingly, I didn't have to bleed the Miata after replacing the clutch 
> slave.  Just jumping madly up and down on the clutch pedal self-bled the 
> system.

That's pretty typical of clutches.  There is enough fluid movement to work 
the air back up to the reservoir.  I've done it with Triumphs, Datsuns and 
maybe some others but I don't recall.

Dave

From areich at telus.net  Thu May 14 11:30:59 2009
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:30:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Naming the John Macartney visit to various cities
In-Reply-To: <4357663CFC8340E4A0869BBF8FE5544E@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <49ECE326.2000803@telus.net>
	<4357663CFC8340E4A0869BBF8FE5544E@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <4A0C5553.9080509@telus.net>

Fred:
Thanks for the advice !  I have taken your great suggestion and called 
it "THE BRITISH ARE COMING !"
I made up a poster, stressing many marques I want at the show, as well 
as Triumphs.
The poster can be viewed at:
  http://bctriumphregistry.com/images/carshow-sep12.pdf
If any of the other clubs want to stay with the same theme for John's 
visit, I can pass them on the source files so they can tailor it to 
their exact needs and dates.
Allan Reich
Vancouver, Canada
BC Triumph Registry
1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O)
===========================================

FRED E THOMAS wrote:
>
> =="THE BRITISH are COMING = 2009"=
> =========================================================================================================== 
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Reich" <areich at telus.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 5:03 PM
> Subject: [TR] Naming the John Macartney visit to various cities
>
>> Greetings from Vancouver!
>> For John's stop here on September 12, we are planning a British Car 
>> Show and Shine event, along with a Barbecue, open to the public.  I 
>> am just in the process of making up about 1000 flyers to advertise 
>> the event and give out at all the British Car events this spring and 
>> summer.
>>
>> I was looking for a name for the event, something cute and/or clever 
>> that would attract some attention ... something about British cars, 
>> charities, ptsd, show and shine, etc
>>
>> Not that there's anything wrong with  "Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity
>> Drive 2009" but looking for something shorter that people can say like
>> "are you going to the blah-blah-blah show?
>>
>> I also want to invite all the British Car clubs in the area, so don't
>> want "Triumph" in the name.  It will, of course, be mentioned in detail
>> what John is doing with the whole ride.
>>
>> I want to challenge the listers to give me their thoughts and get all 
>> the great minds working on it. It would be great if we came up with a 
>> clever short name that everybody could use for their local events.
>>
>> Something like "All-British Charity Show'n'Shine" (that's what I am
>> leaning towards right now)
>>
>> Allan Reich
>> Vancouver
>> 1960 TR3A  TS65713L(+O)
>> _______________________________________________

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 14 11:47:00 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 17:47:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <c18.5618ef20.373da617@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1653775991.9650871242323220367.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
 
> > Amazingly, I didn't have to bleed the Miata after replacing the
> clutch 
> > slave.  Just jumping madly up and down on the clutch pedal self-bled
> the 
> > system.
> 
> That's pretty typical of clutches.  There is enough fluid movement to
> work 
> the air back up to the reservoir.  I've done it with Triumphs, Datsuns
> and 
> maybe some others but I don't recall.

Several of the folks on the Miata list didn't believe me.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu May 14 13:25:10 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 12:25:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Arrgghh ... Redux
Message-ID: <a06240802c632203a4944@[192.168.2.2]>

It was the battery ... :-[   New group 24 installed, all is well in 
the world ... =D>
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu May 14 13:52:40 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 13:52:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 help wanted
In-Reply-To: <mailman.543.1242319938.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.543.1242319938.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D354F82F-6355-4953-A1B7-9A003F850017@telus.net>

Actually dave, that didn't happen until the TR4. The TR2 was fitted  
with the John Deere model G engine thus cementing the TR series fate  
as being known as "TRactors".




On 14-May-09, at 10:52 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: May 14, 2009 5:54:58 AM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 help wanted
>
>
>>> I think that confusion is in the model numbers. If the TR6 has six
>>> cylinders and the TR4 has four, then the TR3 must have three.
>>>
>>
>> If that's the case, how many cylinders does a TR4A have?> It has  
>> like 4
> eh...    At least in eastern Canada
>
> The 3 was a prototype and the engine was experimental.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> A little know fact is the major breakthrough made to the TR2 was  
> the fitting of the Vangard engine in lieu of the one from Briggs  
> and Scrap Iron (Stratton) in the TR1.
>
> ;-)
>
> Dave

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu May 14 14:06:16 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:06:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
In-Reply-To: <502519.41259.qm@web83805.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <502519.41259.qm@web83805.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <f99bbf590905141306pa9027f6ya66636ec503584ae@mail.gmail.com>

My 61 TR4 CT288L has the same chrome over brass trim strips.  Very
nice pieces, definitely better than the aluminum pieces on the follow
on cars.

Brad


On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 9:11 AM, Q <hdrider570 at att.net> wrote:
> I have a set of these on my early TR4 CT1798L.  Unfortunately I am out of
town so I can not try the magnet test.
>
> There is definitely brass under the chrome as I have a couple of worn spots
on the cockpit surrounds.  Whether it is a plating or not I am not sure.
 Visually they look smoother than the aluminum pieces and generally don't have
the surface scratches that you get on the aluminum.  The chrome is shinier as
well as the anodizing has a bit of a matt finish.  They are much heavier as
well.
>
> Most aluminum cockpit surrounds have some bend damage at the B post from
catching on clothing.  The chrome ones are much stronger so the few I have
seen are undamaged.
>
> No idea as to value.
>
> Edward Hamer
> Petaluma Ca

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 14 14:17:16 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:17:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
Message-ID: <d52.4a16da5e.373dd64c@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2009 12:47:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> >>Amazingly, I didn't have to bleed the Miata after replacing the
> >clutch 
> >>slave.  Just jumping madly up and down on the clutch pedal self-bled
> >the 
> >>system.
> >
> >That's pretty typical of clutches.  There is enough fluid movement to
> >work 
> >the air back up to the reservoir.  I've done it with Triumphs, Datsuns
> >and 
> >maybe some others but I don't recall.
> 
> Several of the folks on the Miata list didn't believe me.
> 
Are those the ones who never owned a British car?

Dave

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu May 14 14:27:28 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:27:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] fuel pump thing
References: <cc6.4ee8a7af.373da46d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <186D5DF6639647E3A9AEC9964A59A65D@Edscomputer>

Frank and List,

I believe its function is to separate the fuel for the front carburetor from 
the fuel for the rear carburetor.

Ed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <FGFO1 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 12:44 PM
Subject: [TR] fuel pump thing


> hi guys
> Pulled my original mechanical fuel pump apart from my 58 TR3 last night.
> Inside the glass bowl I found a cone shaped part made of what might be
> ceramic material. It very much reminds me of the thing you get inside the 
> water
> separator on your compressors hard lines.
> I don't see it in any of the workshop manuals, moss catalogue or the
> factory parts book.
> Is it original equipment?
> If it is what does it do?
> thanks
> Frank Fisher

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu May 14 14:47:30 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 20:47:30 GMT
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <200905141447294.SM09324@[166.70.182.40]>

My 1961 TR4 CT288L has the same chrome over brass trim strips.  Very
nice pieces, definitely better than the aluminum pieces on the follow
on cars.

Brad

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Thu May 14 14:57:54 2009
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 20:57:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
In-Reply-To: <20090514113007.QGKQ2.433124.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
Message-ID: <20090514205754.70DST.440062.root@hrndva-web02-z02>

I just got a new carpet set for my TR4 from TRF. It came with no installation instructions.  My car is somewhat unoriginal in the carpet department. 

I'm trying to figure out where all of the various snaps, screws, etc. are supposed to go so I can determine what hardware to order.  TRF sells an installation hardware kit, but I still need to know where to install each piece of hardware.  Can anyone provide some guidance (or better yet a drawing)? 

Thanks. 

Dean Mericas 
Austin, TX 
1965 TR4 
1974 2000 GTV 

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 14 15:03:02 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:03:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <d52.4a16da5e.373dd64c@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1352881022.9741541242334982702.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> Several of the folks on the Miata list didn't believe me.
> 
> Are those the ones who never owned a British car?
> 
> Dave

Possibly.  Maybe only Britcar owners are warped enough to try a shortcut like this on a Japanese car.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 14 15:04:24 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:04:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
In-Reply-To: <20090514205754.70DST.440062.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
Message-ID: <1327268947.9742311242335064222.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Me, too, please.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- dmericas at austin.rr.com wrote:

> From: dmericas at austin.rr.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 3:57:54 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
>
> I just got a new carpet set for my TR4 from TRF. It came with no
> installation instructions.  My car is somewhat unoriginal in the
> carpet department. 
> 
> I'm trying to figure out where all of the various snaps, screws, etc.
> are supposed to go so I can determine what hardware to order.  TRF
> sells an installation hardware kit, but I still need to know where to
> install each piece of hardware.  Can anyone provide some guidance (or
> better yet a drawing)? 
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> Dean Mericas 
> Austin, TX 
> 1965 TR4 
> 1974 2000 GTV 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu May 14 16:18:17 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 22:18:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
In-Reply-To: <502519.41259.qm@web83805.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <259773252.10156061242339497269.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

my ct320l has the chrome type, too.B  i don't know whether they are brass or
steel.



----- Original Message -----
From: "Q" <hdrider570 at att.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:11:52 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [TR] B Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim

I have a set of these on my early TR4 CT1798L. B Unfortunately I am out of
town so I can not try the magnet test. B 

There is definitely brass under the chrome as I have a couple of worn spots on
the cockpit surrounds. B Whether it is a plating or not I am not sure.
B Visually they look smoother than the aluminum pieces and generally don't
have the surface scratches that you get on the aluminum. B The chrome is
shinier as well as the anodizing has a bit of a matt finish. B They are much
heavier as well. B 

Most aluminum cockpit surrounds have some bend damage at the B post from
catching on clothing. B The chrome ones are much stronger so the few I have
seen are undamaged.

No idea as to value.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma Ca
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From FGFO1 at aol.com  Thu May 14 16:25:33 2009
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 18:25:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] THE BRITISH ARE COMING !"
Message-ID: <d55.4eb54170.373df45d@aol.com>

IM already here! Been here a while too.
Frank Fisher
a scouser in Temecula CA
:-)
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi)

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Thu May 14 16:38:41 2009
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 18:38:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] Stay away from California!
Message-ID: <d45.46b4d4b0.373df771@aol.com>

A proper shared brake clutch system will have the clutch fluid supply 
fitting about half way up the can.  This prevents a clutch leak from draining the 
brakes.

In reality, even 1/2" fluid level is enough to keep things going.

Harold

</HTML>

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu May 14 17:12:10 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:12:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <d15.47f4cda5.373dff4a@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/13/2009 11:20:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
nwolf at u.washington.edu writes:

4.  What's an early windshield cap worth?



Hey Nick,
CT 5521 LO has the chrome capping.  It is not magnetic as far as I can  
tell for it will not attract my magnets. I am going to say that it is about the 
 same as the aluminum versions. When did that chrome version end?  Not sure 
 at all on that and neither is TRA or VTR.  You can bet that not more than  
the 5521 cars came with it, anyone with a later car?  What's it  worth?  I 
dun no but if anyone just has to have a set, let me check, I  think I may 
just have some spares. 
Cheers,
Darrell
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi)

From culturevirus at yahoo.com  Thu May 14 17:11:22 2009
From: culturevirus at yahoo.com (culturevirus)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:11:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR]  Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <137541.84004.qm@web54203.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Using my scientifically-calibrated, unused, refrigerator magnet I tested the
cap on CT1272L and found some magnetic pull. But only about half of what I
felt from the windshield  frame. I also tested it on the chrome of my '66
Dodge Dart S/W and found a much stronger magnetic pull than the TR4's
windshield cap. I'm afraid I've never paid close enough attention to answer
the other questions.
 
I am culturevirus 




________________________________
From: "nwolf at u.washington.edu" <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:46:29 PM
Subject: [TR]
Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim

Hi everybody
  It's been a while
since we had any early-TR4 questions, so here goes.
  On the "very early"
cars, according to Piggot, the windshield cap and cockpit perimeter trim
pieces were chrome-plated brass.  This changed quickly to the much more common
anodized aluminum pieces.
  I have located what might be an early
chrome-plated windshield cap, and I need a little help:

1. Are the early
pieces magnetic at all?  Piggot says it's brass under there, so there should
not be any attraction... but I've heard it said on this list that the parts
are actually chrome-plated steel.  The seller says he's not sure if there is
any attraction or not.  Maybe it's stainless steel?
2. Are there any visual
differences between the early and later parts, other than shinyness?  (I have
seen this on a couple of early cars... too bad I wasn't paying closer
attention)
3. When did the switch to aluminum occur?
4. What's an early
windshield cap worth?

  Thanks!
-Nick
Seattle, WA
'62-ish TR4 (probably
'61... long story)
_______________________________________________

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Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

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From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Thu May 14 17:11:31 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:11:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Paint/restoration shops in Seattle
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905141611310.4230@hymn14.u.washington.edu>

Listers,
   I am contemplating a new paint job for the TR4.  Can anyone recommend a good body/paint/restoration shop in the Seattle area?  The car does not need much body work (if any); just a good frame-on sanding and re-painting.
   If it makes a difference, I am more concerned about rust-proofing than concours perfection.

   The current color is Signal Red, which is not really my thing.  I also have no way of knowing whether it is the original color (body was pickled long ago, and also lost its commission and body number plates; currently wearing TR4A tags).
   I'd like to switch to BRG, but I doubt I could afford a full frame-on restoration, so I'd be stuck with a green car with red innards.  Also not really my thing.
   So, I'm considering option C, which is to go to a darker shade of red:  Carmine Red, which was used on the TR6 and other later cars.  Has anybody ever seen a TR4 in this color?

   Thanks!
-Nick
Seattle
'62-ish TR4

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu May 14 17:24:32 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 23:24:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905131728x5a10a6d5j3e18dc81575d794b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <593754079.9800171242343472715.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I would certainly offer a ground to the horns and confirm they work. B Then
>check the ground created by the horn wire coming out of the bottom of the
>stator tube. B I would save pulling the tube for a last step when all else
>checks out fine.


Thanks, Geo.B  I had a similar thought last night, wondering how I could have
been such an idiot as toB not have thought of it earlier.B  Did disconnect the
ground wire and touch it to ground.B  Same problem.B 



Don't have to pull the Control Head!B  Whoo Hoo!.B  So now it's all about
taking the horns out, attaching them to a battery charger, and doing an
adjustment until I'm satisfied.



Terry

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu May 14 17:32:31 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:32:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Paint/restoration shops in Seattle
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905141611310.4230@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905141611310.4230@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905141632g7e6d2a9fpbbf96acd4920d52e@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 4:11 PM, <nwolf at u.washington.edu> wrote:

> I'd like to switch to BRG, but I doubt I could afford a full frame-on
> restoration, so I'd be stuck with a green car with red innards.


Nick --

I would think you could get a credible all-over paint job w/o removing the
engine or even rendering the car undriveable (at least for the ride to the
shop).

For my TR3A I pulled the various ancillaries (wiring harness, voltage reg,
wiper motor, air cleaners, solenoid, flasher, and what-not) from the engine
compartment (and lossened the brake lines and propped them away from the
body) and, of course, stripped out everything in the way of trim inside &
out.  Drove it to the shop with a one-wire hot wire and pulled the battery &
drivers seat when I got there.

More work but would be your work and not as time-consuming as you might
think.

You could even save some dough by spraying the engine compartment and
interior yourself in the color that the pro will use on the important
exterior.

Just my thoughts -- hoping you can avoid a 2-tone version even if both tones
are shades of red.

Geo

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Thu May 14 17:33:39 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:33:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905141633390.4230@hymn14.u.washington.edu>

Hi Darrell

>On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 4:12 PM, <TR250Driver at aol.com> wrote:
>    Hey Nick,
>    CT 5521 LO has the chrome capping.  It is not magnetic as far as I can
> tell for it will not attract my magnets. I am going to say that it is about
>the same as the aluminum versions. When did that chrome version end?  Not
>sure at all on that and neither is TRA or VTR.  You can bet that not more
>than the 5521 cars came with it, anyone with a later car?  [...]
>    Cheers,
>    Darrell

   Thanks for the data point!  So far I've got:
CT 217 L - Chrome
CT 288 L - Chrome
CT 1050 L - Chrome
CT 1272 L - Chrome
CT 1798 L - Chrome
CT 2966 - Chrome
CT 3154 LO - Chrome
CT 4852 L - Aluminum
CT 5027 L - Aluminum
CT 5521 LO - Chrome
CT 6057 L - Aluminum
CT 10077 L - Aluminum
CT 11880 L - Aluminum

...which does make your car the latest chromie.  I know you've speculated in the past that yours is unusual in other respects... a possible CKD kit... so, maybe that is part of the explanation?

   Beyond that, I'm hearing from other people that the chrome on some cars is magnetic, and on others not magnetic, wich means that question is still up in the air.  Maybe there are brass AND steel versions.
   Need more data!  =)

   And by the way, I'm still collecting "Body-In-White" numbers, in case anyone happens to have their left rear wheel off and is willing to scrape off a bit of paint and contribute to that dataset:

CT 133 - ZS 010166
CT 1798 L - ZS 17010
CT 2846 L - ZS 012911
CT 5521 LO - ZS 16435
CT 12038 O - ZS 21959
CT 15093 L - ZS 25136
CT 22326 L - ZS 44767
CT 25830 L - ZS 35743
CT 38746 L - ZS 48829

   Cheers!
-Nick
'62-ish TR4

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu May 14 17:41:31 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 16:41:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905141633390.4230@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905141633390.4230@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905141641l2d37ca2dv1e439547754983dc@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 4:33 PM, <nwolf at u.washington.edu> wrote:

> Beyond that, I'm hearing from other people that the chrome on some cars is
> magnetic, and on others not magnetic, wich means that question is still up
> in the air.  Maybe there are brass AND steel versions.


I'm not at home so I can't try this but wouldn't a decent magnet have some
attraction when offerred to a non-ferrous capping that is mounted to the
steel body?  I think at least one reply mentioned just a slight attraction.

Gep

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu May 14 19:18:56 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 21:18:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
References: <593754079.9800171242343472715.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E3911C9F8EAA46E1A45908BC5E18D55A@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Terry,
I'm waiting to work on my mounted TR3 horns until I install a permanent 
battery.  Until then, I am  concerned about sufficient current.  Then I'll 
also know other systems are working; I'm such an amatuer!

Thanks, Paul


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Horn Problem


> >I would certainly offer a ground to the horns and confirm they work. B 
> >Then
>>check the ground created by the horn wire coming out of the bottom of the
>>stator tube. B I would save pulling the tube for a last step when all else
>>checks out fine.
>
>
> Thanks, Geo.B  I had a similar thought last night, wondering how I could 
> have
> been such an idiot as toB not have thought of it earlier.B  Did disconnect 
> the
> ground wire and touch it to ground.B  Same problem.B
>
>
>
> Don't have to pull the Control Head!B  Whoo Hoo!.B  So now it's all about
> taking the horns out, attaching them to a battery charger, and doing an
> adjustment until I'm satisfied.
>
>
>
> Terry
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 14 19:46:26 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 20:46:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
References: <593754079.9800171242343472715.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<E3911C9F8EAA46E1A45908BC5E18D55A@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <004f01c9d4ff$59519e80$4601000a@ranteer.local>

this would be a good time to be an armateur . . .

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: <terryrs at comcast.net>; "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Horn Problem


> Terry,
> I'm waiting to work on my mounted TR3 horns until I install a permanent 
> battery.  Until then, I am  concerned about sufficient current.  Then I'll 
> also know other systems are working; I'm such an amatuer!
>
> Thanks, Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
> To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 7:24 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Horn Problem
>
>
>> >I would certainly offer a ground to the horns and confirm they work. B 
>> >Then
>>>check the ground created by the horn wire coming out of the bottom of the
>>>stator tube. B I would save pulling the tube for a last step when all 
>>>else
>>>checks out fine.
>>
>>
>> Thanks, Geo.B  I had a similar thought last night, wondering how I could 
>> have
>> been such an idiot as toB not have thought of it earlier.B  Did 
>> disconnect the
>> ground wire and touch it to ground.B  Same problem.B
>>
>>
>>
>> Don't have to pull the Control Head!B  Whoo Hoo!.B  So now it's all about
>> taking the horns out, attaching them to a battery charger, and doing an
>> adjustment until I'm satisfied.
>>
>>
>>
>> Terry 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu May 14 20:49:09 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 22:49:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <30A557A1361340BFA5506A098B292C6D@Meislaptop>
References: <4A0B2DB2.30345.112B23A3@localhost>
Message-ID: <4A0C9FE5.3650.16D13D4C@localhost>

On 13 May 2009 at 21:04, Randall wrote:

> > I've never (knock on wooden dashboard and wooden head)
> > had brake failure
> 
> Lucky you!  I've been through it several times now, not my favorite
> experience.

After I had read some of these replies a few of my brain cells awoke 
and I realized that, brake failure aside, I have experienced memory 
failure on more than on occasion.  In fact, I did have brake failure 
on the GT6 once.  It was a few blocks from home at low speed, 
prompting a quick turnaround, and shortly thereafter a complete 
rebuild.  I've had brakes seize up on earlier cars, most notably my 
'66 Porsche 912.  But that was back around 1973.

A curious thing about the GT6 event was that I made it a point to 
drive all the home in 1st gear to keep the speed down and the car 
under engine braking.  As I turned a corner an old woman getting out 
of her car yelled at me "Slow down!"  Gee whiz, I was already going 
quite slowly but making rather a lot of noise doing so.  The event 
still boils me.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jeffn at msystech.com  Thu May 14 21:37:01 2009
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 23:37:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <338D20D88E7246958E50701D5AFA282C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <ce5.407cf878.36321132@cs.com>
	<338D20D88E7246958E50701D5AFA282C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <5C2CD1965FE3424C98CBFA905E40781E@pistol>

I haven't heard much chatter about the Carlisle (PA) Import Car Show this 
year. Is anyone going this weekend? I was there about 6-7 years ago, and it 
was just OK.

Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6 

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu May 14 22:31:48 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 22:31:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] fuel pump thing
In-Reply-To: <186D5DF6639647E3A9AEC9964A59A65D@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <529767.59729.bm@omp421.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ed,
There is only one line coming from the fuel pump to the carburetors, and
they are linked in series.

Frank,
I just finished pulling the top off my pump, in situ, to replace the
diaphragm.  I noticed no such thing.  Could it simply be a part from the
casting around the inlet at the top of the bowl?

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 2:27 PM
To: FGFO1 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] fuel pump thing

Frank and List,

I believe its function is to separate the fuel for the front carburetor from
the fuel for the rear carburetor.

Ed


----- Original Message -----
From: <FGFO1 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 12:44 PM
Subject: [TR] fuel pump thing


> hi guys
> Pulled my original mechanical fuel pump apart from my 58 TR3 last night.
> Inside the glass bowl I found a cone shaped part made of what might be
> ceramic material. It very much reminds me of the thing you get inside the 
> water
> separator on your compressors hard lines.
> I don't see it in any of the workshop manuals, moss catalogue or the
> factory parts book.
> Is it original equipment?
> If it is what does it do?
> thanks
> Frank Fisher
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 14 22:58:18 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 04:58:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905141641l2d37ca2dv1e439547754983dc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <523846946.9910101242363498711.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:
> I'm not at home so I can't try this but wouldn't a decent magnet have
> some
> attraction when offerred to a non-ferrous capping that is mounted to
> the
> steel body? 

I thought of that.  I took one of the words from a Magnetic Poetry set (this word is "ride", which is strangely appropriate) and put it in the groove for the top.  Magnet was held UP away from the steel body.

CT2846L is definitely sporting a windshield cap which is chrome-plated steel.  It is easily the nicest piece of chrome on the car.  Surround on the back of he cockpit (to which the top or tonneau is lift-the-dot fastened) appears to be aluminum.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Thu May 14 23:05:46 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 22:05:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Paint/restoration shops in Seattle
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905141611310.4230@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905141611310.4230@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <704417.59104.qm@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Nick,
I'm having a TR4A restored, currently, at a garage.  The exterior paint
(white) is very good, but I thought about having it repainted to BRG, becasue
I love that color.  Well, the cost of the restoration is enough for me without
a paint job, but if the car needed a paint job, I'd go with BRG.  Your
interior situation can be resolved at a later point....Easy for me to say....
Pat




________________________________
From: "nwolf at u.washington.edu"
<nwolf at u.washington.edu>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, May 14,
2009 4:11:31 PM
Subject: [TR] Paint/restoration shops in Seattle

Listers,
  I
am contemplating a new paint job for the TR4.  Can anyone recommend a good
body/paint/restoration shop in the Seattle area?  The car does not need much
body work (if any); just a good frame-on sanding and re-painting.
  If it
makes a difference, I am more concerned about rust-proofing than concours
perfection.

  The current color is Signal Red, which is not really my thing. 
I also have no way of knowing whether it is the original color (body was
pickled long ago, and also lost its commission and body number plates;
currently wearing TR4A tags).
  I'd like to switch to BRG, but I doubt I could
afford a full frame-on restoration, so I'd be stuck with a green car with red
innards.  Also not really my thing.
  So, I'm considering option C, which is
to go to a darker shade of red:  Carmine Red, which was used on the TR6 and
other later cars.  Has anybody ever seen a TR4 in this color?

  Thanks!
-Nick
Seattle
'62-ish TR4
_______________________________________________

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 14 23:21:49 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 22:21:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Horn Problem
In-Reply-To: <593754079.9800171242343472715.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <7bb181af0905131728x5a10a6d5j3e18dc81575d794b@mail.gmail.com>
	<593754079.9800171242343472715.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B2C47111168C483085533E1AC1E34A2D@Meislaptop>

>  So now it's all about
> taking the horns out, attaching them to a battery charger, and doing an
> adjustment until I'm satisfied.

Possibly your battery charger is different, but mine won't come close to
operating TR3 horns.  And since they are somewhat voltage sensitive; I
wouldn't want to use it for adjusting the horns, even if it would run them.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 14 23:31:29 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 22:31:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] fuel pump thing
In-Reply-To: <cc6.4ee8a7af.373da46d@aol.com>
References: <cc6.4ee8a7af.373da46d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3A188A48BA964009A8143C3EDDF57F26@Meislaptop>

> Is it original equipment?

I don't believe so; unless perhaps it belongs in the carb fuel inlet.

> If it is what does it do?

Sounds like someone was trying to improve the operation of the sediment bowl
at separating water from fuel.

Randall

From trglory at verizon.net  Fri May 15 05:12:05 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 07:12:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <5C2CD1965FE3424C98CBFA905E40781E@pistol>
Message-ID: <6A2AC243ABE7405D89302B061A2F0A60@newbox>

Jeff;

I'm on my way to the show right now. It may be just OK but it's the best
you're gonna get.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Nathanson
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 11:37 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import

I haven't heard much chatter about the Carlisle (PA) Import Car Show this
year. Is anyone going this weekend? I was there about 6-7 years ago, and it
was just OK.

Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
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17:54:00

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Fri May 15 05:23:26 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 13:23:26 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
References: <20090514205754.70DST.440062.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
Message-ID: <3B53C3F580CF4EC0BEE7F52CC2AB0F36@Study>

Page 108 latest Moss Europe TR2-4A spare parts catalogue. I will scan the 
page and send it along if you can't access it form your hemisphere!

David Brister
1967 TR4A. 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 21307 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

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From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com  Fri May 15 05:26:53 2009
From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 07:26:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106EC06F17A@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

Loading the spit right now to head up to Carlisle.

Jim

----- Original Message -----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net <triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: 'Jeff Nathanson' <jeffn at msystech.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri May 15 07:12:05 2009
Subject: Re: [TR] Carlisle Import

Jeff;

I'm on my way to the show right now. It may be just OK but it's the best
you're gonna get.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Nathanson
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 11:37 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import

I haven't heard much chatter about the Carlisle (PA) Import Car Show this
year. Is anyone going this weekend? I was there about 6-7 years ago, and it
was just OK.

Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
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Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.30/2115 - Release Date: 05/14/09
17:54:00
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The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May 15 06:03:15 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:03:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 help wanted
Message-ID: <c32.52abb60b.373eb403@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2009 3:50:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dkspence at telus.net writes: 
> Actually dave, that didn't happen until the TR4. The TR2 was fitted  
> with the John Deere model G engine thus cementing the TR series fate  
> as being known as "TRactors".
> 
I must take issue with this blatant attempt to commandeer the Triumph's TR 
heritage to an affiliation with John Deere when it rightfully belongs to 
Massey-Ferguson.

And I'm sure Michael Ferguson will stand behind me in this effort.

Dave Massey


;-)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May 15 06:05:43 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:05:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
Message-ID: <bc9.4a814133.373eb497@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2009 4:03:20 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> Possibly.  Maybe only Britcar owners are warped enough to try a shortcut 
> like this on a Japanese car.
> 
Am I being presumptuous in thinking that most Japanese car owners are 
unaccustomed to performing their own maintenance?

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May 15 06:08:13 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:08:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] THE BRITISH ARE COMING !"
Message-ID: <cee.58b05314.373eb52d@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2009 5:30:45 PM Central Daylight Time, 
FGFO1 at aol.com writes: 
> IM already here! Been here a while too.
> Frank Fisher
> a scouser in Temecula CA
> :-)
> 
Say hi to Paul and Ringo for me next time you go back.

Dave (Native Yank)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri May 15 06:25:57 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:25:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] fuel pump thing
Message-ID: <bc6.450f467c.373eb955@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2009 11:32:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech at flash.net writes: 
> Ed,
> There is only one line coming from the fuel pump to the carburetors, and
> they are linked in series.
> 
Don't worry, Ed, I got the joke.

Dave

From spamiam at comcast.net  Fri May 15 06:32:30 2009
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 12:32:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 222
In-Reply-To: <mailman.544.1242319938.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2002981647.9162701242390750855.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I have a small article on how to serivce the throttle shafts.



http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/Tech_Carb_Bushing_Reaming.pdf



-Tony


----- Original Message -----
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 22:39:31 -0700
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] SU H6 throttle shaft bushing replacement
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BA237988900F44BBB0B18246E4D363DA at Meislaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

> It's time for me to replace the throttle shaft bushes in the SU H6 carbs
> on my
> TR3. B They're leaking a bit and I can't get my idle speed below 1200 RPM.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri May 15 07:27:26 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 13:27:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <bc9.4a814133.373eb497@cs.com>
Message-ID: <27753654.5572261242394046869.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

My opinion is that most Japanese car owners don't even know how to spell FLUIF.....
Tom




> Possibly.  Maybe only Britcar owners are warped enough to try a shortcut 

> like this on a Japanese car.

> 

Am I being presumptuous in thinking that most Japanese car owners are 

unaccustomed to performing their own maintenance?



Dave

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 15 08:01:16 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 14:01:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <579436527.9960301242393971332.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <36338924.9972661242396076207.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> Am I being presumptuous in thinking that most Japanese car owners are
> unaccustomed to performing their own maintenance?

Most American owners of Japanese cars are not aware of the concept of maintenance.  They put fuel in the car.  They drive it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Fri May 15 08:16:11 2009
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 10:16:11 EDT
Subject: [TR] fuel pump thing
Message-ID: <ce6.4e643da0.373ed32b@aol.com>

No, its not that either bill.
see attachment
frank
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823239x1201398650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
Excfooter51509NO62)

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010026.JPG]

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 15 08:48:45 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 14:48:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] THE BRITISH ARE COMING !"
In-Reply-To: <d55.4eb54170.373df45d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <746323993.9992941242398924577.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- FGFO1 at aol.com wrote:

> IM already here! Been here a while too.
> Frank Fisher
> a scouser in Temecula CA

Driving up to SLO for the convention?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Fri May 15 08:55:57 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 07:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Paint/restoration shops in Seattle
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905150755570.11777@hymn11.u.washington.edu>

Thanks, Geo... That is good advice.  I am inspired by the vision of your car going down the road with everything removed except the driver's seat and battery.  =)
-Nick

On Thu, May 14, 2009 at 4:32 PM, <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:

>Nick --
>
>I would think you could get a credible all-over paint job w/o removing the
>engine or even rendering the car undriveable (at least for the ride to the
>shop).
>
>For my TR3A I pulled the various ancillaries (wiring harness, voltage reg,
>wiper motor, air cleaners, solenoid, flasher, and what-not) from the engine
>compartment (and lossened the brake lines and propped them away from the
>body) and, of course, stripped out everything in the way of trim inside &
>out.  Drove it to the shop with a one-wire hot wire and pulled the battery &
>drivers seat when I got there.
>
>More work but would be your work and not as time-consuming as you might
>think.
>
>You could even save some dough by spraying the engine compartment and
>interior yourself in the color that the pro will use on the important
>exterior.
>
>Just my thoughts -- hoping you can avoid a 2-tone version even if both tones
>are shades of red.
>
>Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 15 09:05:45 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:05:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <36338924.9972661242396076207.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <579436527.9960301242393971332.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<36338924.9972661242396076207.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905150805k72b1533nd46440ffaae70244@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 7:01 AM, <pethier at comcast.net> wrote:

> Most American owners of Japanese cars are not aware of the concept of
> maintenance...
>

Oh, I wouldn't say that.  At 150,000 miles I had to replace the battery in
my wife's Toyota.  At 185,000 miles I had to replace the bulb in the dome
light.  Finally got rid of that money pit at 220,000 miles before it
nickeled & dimed me to death.

You can guess what replaced it.

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 15 09:07:19 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:07:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Brakes vs. clutch
In-Reply-To: <bc9.4a814133.373eb497@cs.com>
References: <bc9.4a814133.373eb497@cs.com>
Message-ID: <45DA0581FEF343B39E28A51D5C9C6D53@Meislaptop>

> Am I being presumptuous in thinking that most Japanese car owners are
> unaccustomed to performing their own maintenance?

I'd say that applies to most car owners, regardless of the car's origins!  

Most people simply don't have the tools, know-how, place to work, and
willingness to do it themselves.

After doing the 100,000 mile tune-up on my 95 Buick myself; I think maybe
they've got the right idea!  To change the distributor rotor, you start by
draining the cooling system ...

Randall

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Fri May 15 09:12:19 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:12:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905150812190.11777@hymn11.u.washington.edu>

The plot thickens.  Phil, your upside-down "ride" magnet test sounds pretty conclusive.  Maybe some of these are steel and some are brass.  Or, maybe they are all stainless steel underneath, with different amounts of chrome and nickel causing the the differences in magnetism.
   Nobody has seen any corrosion on these, right?
-Nick

Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 04:58:18 +0000 (UTC)
From: pethier at comcast.net

>----- "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> I'm not at home so I can't try this but wouldn't a decent magnet have
>> some attraction when offerred to a non-ferrous capping that is mounted to
>> the steel body?
>
>I thought of that.  I took one of the words from a Magnetic Poetry set (this
>word is "ride", which is strangely appropriate) and put it in the groove for
>the top.  Magnet was held UP away from the steel body.
>
>CT2846L is definitely sporting a windshield cap which is chrome-plated
>steel.  It is easily the nicest piece of chrome on the car.  Surround on the
>back of he cockpit (to which the top or tonneau is lift-the-dot fastened)
>appears to be aluminum.
>
>Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA

From carlsereda at aol.com  Fri May 15 10:16:39 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 09:16:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Sunday Brit Car Meet
Message-ID: <8CE52F96.DDD0.4921.A58B.7E594A161B46@aol.com>

Surprized I didn't see a reminder on our list..

This was the yearly DIXON, CA 'Brit Car Show' but they moved to WOODLAND,
CA..

Still has best Swap Meet offering I've seen to date..

This Sunday, May 17 - more details below:

http://www.ubscc.org/CarShow.htm 

From jhtschmitt at yahoo.com  Fri May 15 11:17:08 2009
From: jhtschmitt at yahoo.com (jane schmitt)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 10:17:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive
Message-ID: <378920.61642.qm@web30606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi,
 I have recently bought a 75 TR6.Since I am new to Triumphs,I haven't
made many contacts yet.Does anyone have an idea where I could find an
overdrive other than ebay?
Thanks for your help, 
Jane Schmitt
Charleston,SC

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri May 15 11:46:46 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 13:46:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive
In-Reply-To: <378920.61642.qm@web30606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <378920.61642.qm@web30606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A0DAA86.3010103@earthlink.net>

Try some of these guys:

http://www.britishmiles.com/
http://www.triumphparts.com/
http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/main/index.html
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/


Joe


jane schmitt wrote:
> Hi,
>  I have recently bought a 75 TR6.Since I am new to Triumphs,I haven't
> made many contacts yet.Does anyone have an idea where I could find an
> overdrive other than ebay?
> Thanks for your help, 
> Jane Schmitt
> Charleston,SC
> _________________________________________

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Fri May 15 12:03:23 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 13:03:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive
References: <378920.61642.qm@web30606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4A0DAA86.3010103@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <665E0DCA79824F7CB95E6BC43A88A0B3@KARL>

And these:

http://www.quantumechanics.com/index.php

http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/

http://www.odspares.com/

Karl


> Try some of these guys:
> 
> http://www.britishmiles.com/
> http://www.triumphparts.com/
> http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/main/index.html
> http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/
> 
> 
> Joe
> 
> 
> jane schmitt wrote:
>> Hi,
>>  I have recently bought a 75 TR6.Since I am new to Triumphs,I haven't
>> made many contacts yet.Does anyone have an idea where I could find an
>> overdrive other than ebay?
>> Thanks for your help, 
>> Jane Schmitt
>> Charleston,SC
>> _________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as kvacek at ameritech.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Fri May 15 13:04:18 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 12:04:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905151204180.6606@hymn33.u.washington.edu>

I think I found the fan that goes on those 3-cylinder TR3's.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370201856159

   Anybody seen that before?  Perhaps it's for cold climates?

-Nick
'62-ish TR4

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 15 13:10:14 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 12:10:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive
In-Reply-To: <665E0DCA79824F7CB95E6BC43A88A0B3@KARL>
References: <378920.61642.qm@web30606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<4A0DAA86.3010103@earthlink.net>
	<665E0DCA79824F7CB95E6BC43A88A0B3@KARL>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905151210ua4b8302o548ac59e2548524e@mail.gmail.com>

I obtained mine from John Esposito at Quantumechanics about 2 years
ago and was completely satisfied with the unit.

There are also several versions of kits/adaptors that put a Toyota or
Ford 5-speed box in your TR.  Not how I chose to go but a legit
alternative for better highway cruising.

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri May 15 14:47:26 2009
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 16:47:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <5C2CD1965FE3424C98CBFA905E40781E@pistol>
References: <ce5.407cf878.36321132@cs.com>
	<338D20D88E7246958E50701D5AFA282C@jdnet.deere.com> 
	<5C2CD1965FE3424C98CBFA905E40781E@pistol>
Message-ID: <COL119-W2554AC79D52E9354B3D402A55F0@phx.gbl>

> I haven't heard much chatter about the Carlisle (PA) Import Car Show this
> year. Is anyone going this weekend? I was there about 6-7 years ago, and it
> was just OK.
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6


I'm going tomorrow (Saturday).



John H.

From rx74evr at mchsi.com  Fri May 15 14:52:04 2009
From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 15:52:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
References: <ce5.407cf878.36321132@cs.com><338D20D88E7246958E50701D5AFA282C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<5C2CD1965FE3424C98CBFA905E40781E@pistol>
	<COL119-W2554AC79D52E9354B3D402A55F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6CD2E875A55A496582E48AB2DD2A06E0@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>

I just had a phone call from a friend who is there now, its down to 3 rows 
of vendors and the show is going downhill every year, i just cant justify 
making the trip anymore, the swap meet era is dying off clearly...Too bad , 
i loved selling/buying at that venue..

Paul S


Subject: Re: [TR] Carlisle Import


>> I haven't heard much chatter about the Carlisle (PA) Import Car Show this
>> year. Is anyone going this weekend? I was there about 6-7 years ago, and 
>> it
>> was just OK.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jeff N.
>> '72 TR6
>
>
> I'm going tomorrow (Saturday).

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri May 15 16:01:58 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 18:01:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
Message-ID: <c8a.3bd8e035.373f4056@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/15/2009 4:52:20 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rx74evr at mchsi.com writes:

...Too  bad , 
i loved selling/buying at that venue..



You know I am tearful of the passing of the Swap Meets that were once a  
great part of the Triumph hobby.  Hey, my NOS stripped, bumble bee, front  
radiator hose is a cop, for not a lot of money, @ Carlisle. I won't be  going 
this year for I can sit here in my underwear and bid on such stuff on  ebay. 
I always wanted to retire as  swap meet hobo selling parts for bones  for my 
dog, Toby. Tobs is 11 years old now so that is not likely to  happen.
Cheers,
Darrell  
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823239x1201398650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
Excfooter51509NO62)

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May 15 17:00:15 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 19:00:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
Message-ID: <d21.501ddb2a.373f4dff@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/15/2009 6:02:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
TR250Driver at aol.com writes:

I always  wanted to retire as  swap meet hobo selling parts for bones  for 
my  
dog, Toby.


Damn, I got laid off in January and Swap Meet Hobo was in my top ten  
career choices for change from Marketing Exec.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823239x1201398650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
Excfooter51509NO62)

From trglory at verizon.net  Fri May 15 17:21:15 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 19:21:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <6CD2E875A55A496582E48AB2DD2A06E0@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>
Message-ID: <703795042B384B40BCEE1AC2CF84B99C@newbox>

This morning a friend scored an excellent set of early TR6 high back seats
for $50 each. Too bad you guys missed them.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rx74evr at mchsi.com
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 4:52 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Carlisle Import

I just had a phone call from a friend who is there now, its down to 3 rows
of vendors and the show is going downhill every year, i just cant justify
making the trip anymore, the swap meet era is dying off clearly...Too bad ,
i loved selling/buying at that venue..

Paul S


Subject: Re: [TR] Carlisle Import


>> I haven't heard much chatter about the Carlisle (PA) Import Car Show this
>> year. Is anyone going this weekend? I was there about 6-7 years ago, and
>> it
>> was just OK.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jeff N.
>> '72 TR6
>
>
> I'm going tomorrow (Saturday).
_______________________________________________


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.31/2116 - Release Date: 05/15/09
06:16:00

From rx74evr at mchsi.com  Fri May 15 17:42:22 2009
From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 18:42:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
References: <703795042B384B40BCEE1AC2CF84B99C@newbox>
Message-ID: <F158A84A2487427E89BD8A830C8E0B8E@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>

Must have been the only deal there, glad your friend got them, now everyone 
else can go home since the only deal is now gone...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Laurito" <trglory at verizon.net>
To: <rx74evr at mchsi.com>; "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 6:21 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Carlisle Import


This morning a friend scored an excellent set of early TR6 high back seats
for $50 each. Too bad you guys missed them.

Joe

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri May 15 17:47:51 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 19:47:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
Message-ID: <d20.4fc8ce62.373f5927@aol.com>

i could not make it this year, but a buddy of mine text me a couple of  
photos of tr items and i was able to buy a couple of hard to find items. it 
pays  to arrive early as my buddy does. larry schwartz
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823239x1201398650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
Excfooter51509NO62)

From rjones at wfeca.net  Fri May 15 20:19:43 2009
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Bob Jones)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 21:19:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tools
In-Reply-To: <A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop>
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop>
Message-ID: <7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>

I was in Lowe's tonight and was looking at the tools as I usually do.  I 
noticed for the first time that the majority of the "Vise-Grips" they had 
were now made in China.  I ask a salesman and he said the plant in Nebraska 
had been shut down and the American made ones were in short supply.  In my 
old age I have just quit buying chinese tools (life's too short for junk) 
and now stick to American made ones.  They are the best in the world, 
overall, and even though they cost more, my grandchildren will still be 
using them 50 years from now.  I bought the last set of "quick release" 
American made Vise-Grips they had.  With these two new ones, the other four 
I have should be the last I need.  If you feel the way I do, then you better 
pick some up before they are all gone.   Whats next, Channel Loc?

Bob 

From opposumking at verizon.net  Fri May 15 20:48:59 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 22:48:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <6CD2E875A55A496582E48AB2DD2A06E0@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>
References: <ce5.407cf878.36321132@cs.com><338D20D88E7246958E50701D5AFA282C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<5C2CD1965FE3424C98CBFA905E40781E@pistol>
	<COL119-W2554AC79D52E9354B3D402A55F0@phx.gbl>
	<6CD2E875A55A496582E48AB2DD2A06E0@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>
Message-ID: <4A0E299B.4050807@verizon.net>

rx74evr at mchsi.com wrote:
> I just had a phone call from a friend who is there now, its down to 3 
> rows of vendors and the show is going downhill every year, i just cant 
> justify making the trip anymore, the swap meet era is dying off 
> clearly...Too bad , i loved selling/buying at that venue..

Your friend needs help counting.  Yes, the vendor field is smaller and 
steadily shrinking, but it's got a long ways to go before it's just 
three rows. 

Some very good deals there.  More than in recent years.  VW content is 
up, Volvo is down.  More small guys, fewer big guys.  Set of 4 Koni 
shocks and springs, $100.  Free TR7 transmissions.  $100 set of 4 wire 
wheels and hubs and knockoffs.  Dirt cheap TVR stuff, like the $5 rollbar. 

Lot of vendors were still arriving and setting up into the afternoon.

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Fri May 15 20:59:23 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 22:59:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] brake fluid paintover
Message-ID: <D4D6FB06025C499686832FDA822898A7@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Dear list,
I hate to have to admit it, but I use Dot 3 & 4 brakefluid.  I also hate to
admit it but it leaked out of the mc's onto part of  the driver's  floorpan
and pealed up it's paint.  My question is how to get it up and then what to
repaint the floorpan with so as to halt the corrosion and retreat it with.
But, as always, a fairly cheap method is important.
    Forget I ever mentioned 'compartmental transfer of reservoir bf'.  What I
guessed was 'transfer within the reservoir' was  actually due to leaking out
of the MC and onto the new floorpan.  My TR3 is only destined as a 'daily
driver'; but I do want to  clean up the new floorpan, and recoat it with
something.  The bf sat on the floorpan for about a day or two, but that was
time enuf to strip the paint.
    My guess is the list might tell me to use mineral spirits and then
something like POR-15  But I'm not sure mineral spirits will get up
brakefluid.

Thanks,  Paul Dorsey

From tom628 at verizon.net  Fri May 15 22:01:30 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 00:01:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] brake fluid paintover
References: <D4D6FB06025C499686832FDA822898A7@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <9A33AFA85B59461A8FEEBDB8138DBDAE@Toms>

Paul, I think denatured alcohol might do it, but I'm not certain. Someone 
with experience will chime in, I'm sure.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 10:59 PM
Subject: [TR] brake fluid paintover


> Dear list,
> I hate to have to admit it, but I use Dot 3 & 4 brakefluid.  I also hate 
> to
> admit it but it leaked out of the mc's onto part of  the driver's 
> floorpan
> and pealed up it's paint.  My question is how to get it up and then what 
> to
> repaint the floorpan with so as to halt the corrosion and retreat it with.
> But, as always, a fairly cheap method is important.
>    Forget I ever mentioned 'compartmental transfer of reservoir bf'.  What 
> I
> guessed was 'transfer within the reservoir' was  actually due to leaking 
> out
> of the MC and onto the new floorpan.  My TR3 is only destined as a 'daily
> driver'; but I do want to  clean up the new floorpan, and recoat it with
> something.  The bf sat on the floorpan for about a day or two, but that 
> was
> time enuf to strip the paint.
>    My guess is the list might tell me to use mineral spirits and then
> something like POR-15  But I'm not sure mineral spirits will get up
> brakefluid.
>
> Thanks,  Paul Dorsey
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri May 15 22:29:45 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 22:29:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR switch, lock insert - Resolution
In-Reply-To: <218698.20554.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <763936.56313.bm@omp415.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, the guy at Moss never called back as he said he would so I continued
to mess with putting the new tumbler into my ignition switch.  

After some input from Pete Groh, I determined that the new tumbler was more
squared-off and the spring pin sat just a little higher than the old one so
I carefully sanded all the edges on the end of the tumbler and beveled the
pin just a skosh.  It took a light rap with a pair of pliers but it dropped
right in and works perfectly.  Now all my locks are keyed-alike!  Thanks
Pete for your input that led me to the solution.

Now, fearless from this victory, I need to replace the black plastic parts
on the control head and re-install the stator tube.  From what everyone on
the list seems to indicate, this should be a major milestone in the
restoration process!

Have a great weekend, think about we who are still in the garage whilst you
are driving the hills of the countryside.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Groh [mailto:pete_groh at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 7:45 AM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Subject: TR switch, lock insert - suggestion 


Bill  Pete Groh (keyguy) On the lock insert removed from your old switch, do
you also have the brass cup (holder) removed?  In my experience on removal
of the lock insert, sometimes the holder will stay in the old lock.

Or, i had the same problem in past, found that the pin that hold the insert
into the switch had been worn down. You may want to file the pin where you
insert the insert; catch on the body of the switch. 
Kind regards

From: "Wbeech at flash.net" <wbeech at flash.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Ignition Switch Tumble Replacement
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090514034119.2A9CF187655 at autox.team.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hello List,

I bought the complete locks & handles kit from Moss and everything was going
fine until I tried to replace the tumbler in the ignition switch.  I poked a
screwdriver into the little hole and removed the old tumbler, the spring pin
was pretty shot,

  - Bill, if you need a used pin, give me your mailing address, will sent to
you. - Pete

 but the new tumbler will not go in all the way as the spring pin seems to
be preventing it from sliding into place.

Is there any way to retract the spring pin while you insert the tumbler then
release once it is in place?

Thanks,
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
Pete Groh   
9957 Frederick Rd
Ellicott City, Md. 21042-3647 U.S.A.
Phone 443 912-4740 cell 410 750-2352 evening Web page:
http://britishcarkeys.com

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat May 16 00:10:43 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 06:10:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] brake fluid paintover
In-Reply-To: <D4D6FB06025C499686832FDA822898A7@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <D4D6FB06025C499686832FDA822898A7@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W747963E4981C4D8BA9E47E55C0@phx.gbl>

Use brake cleaner to clean up the brake fluid.  This will also take up most of
the damaged paint.  wire brush or sand any rusted areas. Then use Permatex
rust inhibiting primer on the affected area. This is a much cheaper
alternative than POR 15.  After the primer has dried you can paint with a
rattle can. It has worked well for me.

Best regards,
Tom





_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. goes with you.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_
Mobile1_052009

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 16 05:50:01 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 06:50:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tools
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop>
	<7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
Message-ID: <AF2E2089E2A5479A94805E961D2A9A02@yourpd3mh0abgs>

bob,
no more 'stuff'.  the chinese just canceled our credit card.
vise-grips?  jobs americans don't want to do.....
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 9:19 PM
Subject: [TR] Tools


>I was in Lowe's tonight and was looking at the tools as I usually do.  I 
>noticed for the first time that the majority of the "Vise-Grips" they had 
>were now made in China.  I ask a salesman and he said the plant in Nebraska 
>had been shut down and the American made ones were in short supply.  In my 
>old age I have just quit buying chinese tools (life's too short for junk) 
>and now stick to American made ones.  They are the best in the world, 
>overall, and even though they cost more, my grandchildren will still be 
>using them 50 years from now.  I bought the last set of "quick release" 
>American made Vise-Grips they had.  With these two new ones, the other four 
>I have should be the last I need.  If you feel the way I do, then you 
>better pick some up before they are all gone.   Whats next, Channel Loc?
>
> Bob _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Fri May 15 20:36:20 2009
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 02:36:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tools
In-Reply-To: <7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop><7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
Message-ID: <921701585-1242474978-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-803688726-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Bob 
I'm with you, I sick of everything made in china.  I'm doing my best to try to find things made in the United States of America. Paying a little more will pay off in the long run in more ways than we know. 

 Although my statement is kinda hypocritical on a British car forum.  
Yesterday I was reading bumper stickers while stopped in traffic, and it made me think that if I had a buy American sticker I might put it on my Yukon.  I hate bumper stickers on my own cars. 

Ronnie
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>

Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 21:19:43 
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tools


I was in Lowe's tonight and was looking at the tools as I usually do.  I 
noticed for the first time that the majority of the "Vise-Grips" they had 
were now made in China.  I ask a salesman and he said the plant in Nebraska 
had been shut down and the American made ones were in short supply.  In my 
old age I have just quit buying chinese tools (life's too short for junk) 
and now stick to American made ones.  They are the best in the world, 
overall, and even though they cost more, my grandchildren will still be 
using them 50 years from now.  I bought the last set of "quick release" 
American made Vise-Grips they had.  With these two new ones, the other four 
I have should be the last I need.  If you feel the way I do, then you better 
pick some up before they are all gone.   Whats next, Channel Loc?

Bob 
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as rbtr3a at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Sat May 16 05:56:47 2009
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 11:56:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tools
In-Reply-To: <7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop><7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
Message-ID: <1891716484-1242474984-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1705366062-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Bob 
I'm with you, I sick of everything made in china.  I'm doing my best to try to find things made in the United States of America. Paying a little more will pay off in the long run in more ways than we know. 

 Although my statement is kinda hypocritical on a British car forum.  
Yesterday I was reading bumper stickers while stopped in traffic, and it made me think that if I had a buy American sticker I might put it on my Yukon.  I hate bumper stickers on my own cars. 

Ronnie
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>

Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 21:19:43 
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tools


I was in Lowe's tonight and was looking at the tools as I usually do.  I 
noticed for the first time that the majority of the "Vise-Grips" they had 
were now made in China.  I ask a salesman and he said the plant in Nebraska 
had been shut down and the American made ones were in short supply.  In my 
old age I have just quit buying chinese tools (life's too short for junk) 
and now stick to American made ones.  They are the best in the world, 
overall, and even though they cost more, my grandchildren will still be 
using them 50 years from now.  I bought the last set of "quick release" 
American made Vise-Grips they had.  With these two new ones, the other four 
I have should be the last I need.  If you feel the way I do, then you better 
pick some up before they are all gone.   Whats next, Channel Loc?

Bob 
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as rbtr3a at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sat May 16 06:32:10 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 08:32:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Tools
Message-ID: <c2e.537b3666.37400c4a@aol.com>

I agree Bob.....tools are more than just purchases; they often become  
legacy items handed down to future generations and this overseas stuff  just 
doesn't make good hand-me-downs!  Ironically, I have the completely  opposite 
feeling for modern cars.  Since my experience with American cars  during the 
last 15 years hasn't been very rewarding and more expensive than it  should 
have been, it will be a long time (if ever) that I buy an American auto  
again but we're really getting off List topic so enough said on that  subject:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U 
 
 
In a message dated 5/15/2009 10:20:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rjones at wfeca.net writes:

In my  
old age I have just quit buying chinese tools (life's too short for junk)  
and now stick to American made  ones. 

**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377005x1201454319/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
Excfooter51609NO62)

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat May 16 06:45:13 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 08:45:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tools
In-Reply-To: <c2e.537b3666.37400c4a@aol.com>
References: <c2e.537b3666.37400c4a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W4660D201BD4995EAA9077EBA5C0@phx.gbl>

Not to stray too far from the original post but on the car subject. I've had
good experiences quality wise with my last few ford Trucks. We have been
looking at new vehicles lately and have found that the American content of the
"foreign" cars is higher than the "American" cars. Bull on that profits going
oversees stuff, those parts make a lot of paychecks here. Something those nuts
don't realize as they are flipping me of in their big American trucks when
they see me driving my wife's VW GLI.  Hmmm, then again maybe it not the car
causing the reaction:).

Marty


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. goes with you.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_
Mobile1_052009

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Sat May 16 07:27:29 2009
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 13:27:29 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted - The results
Message-ID: <e3109f4abefe.4a0ebf41@optonline.net>

Just to follow up, the problem was as originally diagnosed (diaphragms in carbs) but BOTH were bad, not just one. I'm not sure how it ran at all considering how torn up they were.  I will now carry carb diaphragms in my spares kit so if/when this happens again, I'll be ready.  Thanks for all the ideas/guesses/possibilities that you all offered.  
Dennis Culligan, Highland,NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH 

----- Original Message -----
From: 
Date: Friday, May 8, 2009 11:12 am
Subject: TR6 - Help Wanted
To: 6pack at autox.team.net,triumphs at autox.team.net,

> I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The 
> Mitty at Road Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip 
> to the NC shore, all in my TR6. All went extremely well until 
> about 100 miles from home. The car starts and idles fine, and 
> runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. It just 
> seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania 
> a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill 
> and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go 
> any faster. I checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses 
> disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only theory so far is a 
> possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one carb?) 
> but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out until 
> next week. Any other ideas where to look? Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH 

From rx74evr at mchsi.com  Sat May 16 07:29:37 2009
From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 08:29:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
References: <ce5.407cf878.36321132@cs.com><338D20D88E7246958E50701D5AFA282C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<5C2CD1965FE3424C98CBFA905E40781E@pistol>
	<COL119-W2554AC79D52E9354B3D402A55F0@phx.gbl>
	<6CD2E875A55A496582E48AB2DD2A06E0@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>
	<4A0E299B.4050807@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <B2710ADDEA9C4618958DAC72E2471D15@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>

Ill get him to enrole in a math class as soon as he  returns from the show, 
will that do?  After 20 years of selling there, its enrollment and 
attendance is not worth the 17 hour drive anymore, that was my point...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Nolan" <opposumking at verizon.net>
To: <rx74evr at mchsi.com>
Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 9:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Carlisle Import


> rx74evr at mchsi.com wrote:
>> I just had a phone call from a friend who is there now, its down to 3 
>> rows of vendors and the show is going downhill every year, i just cant 
>> justify making the trip anymore, the swap meet era is dying off 
>> clearly...Too bad , i loved selling/buying at that venue..
>
> Your friend needs help counting.  Yes, the vendor field is smaller and 
> steadily shrinking, but it's got a long ways to go before it's just three 
> rows.
> Some very good deals there.  More than in recent years.  VW content is up, 
> Volvo is down.  More small guys, fewer big guys.  Set of 4 Koni shocks and 
> springs, $100.  Free TR7 transmissions.  $100 set of 4 wire wheels and 
> hubs and knockoffs.  Dirt cheap TVR stuff, like the $5 rollbar.
> Lot of vendors were still arriving and setting up into the afternoon.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat May 16 10:44:49 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 12:44:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W4660D201BD4995EAA9077EBA5C0@phx.gbl>
References: <c2e.537b3666.37400c4a@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W4660D201BD4995EAA9077EBA5C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FA7A03515CAB4CBD889A68FA5B07113C@CarlPC>

Sometime in about three weeks, the TR3 will be coming back from its long 
sojourn at the body shop.   I inspected the work today and there are a 
couple minor details to be finished but he has promised it will be done by 
the 1st.

Then it goes to sand-blast and then to the 'oven'....   Yes, I am having it 
all powder coated.  I anticipate that I will need to do some finish work 
after coating (and after all back together) but have been assured it is 
doable....

The rolling chassis is done (including the rear-end & steering), the engine 
is done, the transmission is done - but all in different corners of the 
garage.

The question - what should I plan on doing next before the tub is brought 
home and put on the chassis.   Can I mount the engine/transmission/drive 
train before the body?  What else?  exhaust system?  brake/fuel lines, etc 
etc etc.

This has been a long anticipated moment.   The body shop had the car for 
almost 2 years.  It was understood from the get-go that it would be fill-in 
work and he charged me accordingly.  There is no filler, all metal work.  I 
think he discounted it more as he has been fighting the big 'C' and has said 
many times that the TR was his 'quiet' time.   (and it is possible he didn't 
keep very good records on time spent)

Anyway - any/all suggestions will be appreciated.   I now have a very 
realistic completion date - VTR NATC summer 2010.

Carl
Tampa

From jr468 at hotmail.com  Thu May 14 13:56:44 2009
From: jr468 at hotmail.com (John Reed)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 15:56:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] SU H6 throttle shaft bushing replacement
In-Reply-To: <mailman.544.1242319938.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.544.1242319938.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BLU105-W251D976B01A6F807594C54ED5E0@phx.gbl>

> Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 22:39:31 -0700
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] SU H6 throttle shaft bushing replacement
>
> > It's time for me to replace the throttle shaft bushes in the SU H6 carbs
> > on my
> > TR3. They're leaking a bit and I can't get my idle speed below 1200 RPM.
>
> Have you checked to see what is holding the throttles open? I wouldn't
> expect the leak itself to be the problem; and there can be many other
things
> that hold them open a bit. Including having the screws that hold the plates
> to the shaft work loose.



I started having a problem with idle speed too high last summer.  I could get
it down when the throttle shafts were not connected and I adjusted them
independently and synced them (using hose to the ear and also a uni-syn).  I
had backed the idle adjust screw almost all the way out.  After clamping the
shafts together and driving idle speed was too high again.  I looked at the
throttle plates last year and looked like they would close all the way.  I
didn't check tightness on the throttle plate screws but they were in place --
nothing appeared out of place.  I lubricated the all of the throttle linkages
(back to the pedal) and checked the springs on the carbs.  I forgot about the
problem during the Michigan winter and then when I started driving this season
I decided it needed to be fixed.  I sprayed some starting fluid around the
shaft bushings and the idle changed when I sprayed the rear bushing on both
carbs.  Idle speed didn't increase.  I think it actually dropped -- maybe like
loading up.


>
> > Should I just get four new bushes from Moss and not replace anything
more?
> > Hoping the wear is in the bushes and not the shafts.
>
> Seems unlikely to me. One way to tell is after you've stripped the carbs,
> reinsert the shafts so the bushings ride on the unworn area and compare the
> side play to the normal position.
>
> > Should I put in new shafts also?
>
> I would. In fact, I would expect the shafts to have most of the wear, this
> time around.



Shafts and bushings arrived yesterday.


>
> > Will I be able to use micrometers to
> > tell if there is wear on my shafts?
>
> Yes, but the test above is easier. A micrometer isn't really required, even
> calipers are plenty to measure any significant wear. A few .0001" doesn't
> matter here.
>
> > My concern with replacing the shafts is
> > drilling
> > them for the pin to locate the throttle stops. Any tips for doing that?
>
> Sorry, I'm no help here. I did mine "by eye"; goofed the first one up but
> fortunately was able to correct my mistake by turning the shaft end-for-end
> and trying again.



I ordered an extra set.  I'll either be able to recover from a mistake or have
some on hand for next time.


>
> > Should I install a complete rebuilt kit even though I have no other
> > problems?
> > I've only got about 25000 miles since the rebuild. But is 17 years
> > getting
> > near the end of the life expectancy for seals?
>
> I would like to know how the heck you got that much out of them! Mine only
> seem to last a few years at most. As far as needles, jets, float valves,
> etc.; I'd probably leave them alone if no problems are evident. That said,
> one of the most frustrating (and damaging) TR problems I've ever fought was
> caused by jets that were internally worn (presumably from poorly centered
> needles by a DPO). Changing them might turn out to be cheap insurance.



Actually now that I think more about it a few years ago I had to replace the
seals that go on top and bottom of the float bowl connection to the carb body.
Had a very small leak there, but it was such a small fix that I forgot about
it.   At least once a year I lift the piston by hand to make sure the needle
is aligned with the jet and that it drops nicely.


>
> > The shafts that are installed measure 5/16" (.3125"). I'm hoping that is
> > the
> > standard shaft size
>
> I believe it is.
>
> > and the OD of the bushes Moss sells now is the same as
> > those sold 17 years ago.
>
> Sorry, no idea there. But I doubt you can just drive them out anyway, most
> likely they will have to be reamed again.



Really???  That's bad news for me.  Why wouldn't I be able to press out the
old bushings and press in new ones?  Assuming the bushing ODs are the same.
Or do you mean the ID of bush is going to need to be reamed after they are
pressed in?  I haven't tried sliding the shafts into the new bushings yet.  I
think I would need to have someone else do the reaming.  I don't know how I
would make sure the reamer is parallel with the carb mounting surface and also
perfectly horizontal.
>
> Randall
>

Thanks for the tips, Randall.  I'm on digest.  If you send a response could
you also copy me directly.

/John

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat May 16 13:14:20 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 12:14:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted - The results
In-Reply-To: <e3109f4abefe.4a0ebf41@optonline.net>
References: <e3109f4abefe.4a0ebf41@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905161214v59e14bb1q8c9fa789cad002fb@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 6:27 AM, <dctr6 at optonline.net> wrote:

> ... I will now carry carb diaphragms in my spares kit...


I do that (well, only 1 as the odds of 2 failures seems pretty remote, your
experience notwithstanding).

Ziploc makes a little plastic tub with a snap-on lid that is the precise
size and shape of the TR4s carb diaphragms.  Let's me pack it in the parts
suitcase (aluminum, Harbor Frieght) w/o getting them crushed or torn.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat May 16 13:18:27 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 12:18:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <c8a.3bd8e035.373f4056@aol.com>
References: <c8a.3bd8e035.373f4056@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905161218t4cff839fhf7fc5be661b531ea@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 3:01 PM, <TR250Driver at aol.com> wrote:

> ... I can sit here in my underwear and bid on such stuff on ebay...


Thanks for loading us up with that image.

Perhaps Mark should require pants be worn on this list.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat May 16 13:22:06 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 12:22:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] The time has come... TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <FA7A03515CAB4CBD889A68FA5B07113C@CarlPC>
References: <c2e.537b3666.37400c4a@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W4660D201BD4995EAA9077EBA5C0@phx.gbl>
	<FA7A03515CAB4CBD889A68FA5B07113C@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905161222i11e19229xb100a5634b10b855@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 9:44 AM, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:

> ...Can I mount the engine/transmission/drive train before the body?  What
> else?  exhaust system?  brake/fuel lines, etc etc etc.


I have never separated tub from frame so I'm no authority, but that is
certainly how Standard put them together back in the day.

Geo

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat May 16 13:44:38 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 15:44:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
Message-ID: <c5c.4ef53cde.374071a6@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/16/2009 3:18:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes:

On Fri,  May 15, 2009 at 3:01 PM, <TR250Driver at aol.com> wrote:

> ... I  can sit here in my underwear and bid on such stuff on  ebay...


Thanks for loading us up with that image.

Perhaps  Mark should require pants be worn on this  list.

Geo



Underwear?  Huh! Amateurs.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377005x1201454319/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
Excfooter51609NO62)

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat May 16 16:08:22 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 22:08:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <FA7A03515CAB4CBD889A68FA5B07113C@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <680960978.10418091242511702123.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>The question - what should I plan on doing next before the tub is brought
>home and put on the chassis. B  Can I mount the engine/transmission/drive
>train before the body? B What else? B exhaust system? B brake/fuel lines,
etc.

Hi, Carl.



Trying to remember when I did it.B  Yes on the brakelines,B engine, fuel pump,
oil pump, radiator, tranny, driveline (grease everything first), fan, exhaust
and intake manifold.B  No on the carbs; though these might be done, it could
be a tighter fit than you want to hassle with.B  If your floors are in, I'd
wait on the emergency brake too.



I'd also wait to put the battery in, until you have a batter tray ,<G>



Congratulations!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667)

New Hampshire.

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sat May 16 16:24:02 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 17:24:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted - The results
References: <e3109f4abefe.4a0ebf41@optonline.net>
	<7bb181af0905161214v59e14bb1q8c9fa789cad002fb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <29517178A841443298E93D0969FBF4D7@yourpd3mh0abgs>

>> ... I will now carry diaphragms in my spares kit...
>
usually, i prefer a regular or ribbed prophy. the diaphragm takes too long 
to fit and can kill the mood.
 ;-)
Best,
Ray

From zoboherald at aol.com  Sat May 16 21:28:21 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 23:28:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tools
In-Reply-To: <921701585-1242474978-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-803688726-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop><7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
	<921701585-1242474978-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-803688726-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <8CBA4B6A9907CD8-15C-37B5@WEBMAIL-DY34.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: rbtr3a at cox.net

Ronnie
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

==AM==
Not trying to make any statements; rather, I'm curious. Where was your BlackBerry made?

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat May 16 23:48:58 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 23:48:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <FA7A03515CAB4CBD889A68FA5B07113C@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <291772.21200.bm@omp403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Carl,

Was just in your shoes a few months ago after waiting 15 months for the body
& paint work.  I have never heard of anyone powder coating the body, only
the chassis, I am very interested to know how it comes out as I would be
afraid the heat would warp the body metal.

I had my chassis all fitted out, complete engine (no carbs or radiator) &
trans, brake lines & fuel lines.  After we mounted the tub and did all the
tweaking to be sure it all fit I put the radiator, hoses & steering column
on at the body shop just before we added the front apron.

Now its, carbs, master cylinders & pedals, dash, instruments, wiring harness
& lights.  My intent is to drive it for 100 miles completely stripped of
interior, save for an old seat before trimming it out with all the pretty
red leather and wool.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 10:45 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] The time has come... TR3 back from Body Shop

Sometime in about three weeks, the TR3 will be coming back from its long 
sojourn at the body shop.   I inspected the work today and there are a 
couple minor details to be finished but he has promised it will be done by
the 1st.

Then it goes to sand-blast and then to the 'oven'....   Yes, I am having it 
all powder coated.  I anticipate that I will need to do some finish work
after coating (and after all back together) but have been assured it is
doable....

The rolling chassis is done (including the rear-end & steering), the engine
is done, the transmission is done - but all in different corners of the
garage.

The question - what should I plan on doing next before the tub is brought 
home and put on the chassis.   Can I mount the engine/transmission/drive 
train before the body?  What else?  exhaust system?  brake/fuel lines, etc
etc etc.

This has been a long anticipated moment.   The body shop had the car for 
almost 2 years.  It was understood from the get-go that it would be fill-in
work and he charged me accordingly.  There is no filler, all metal work.  I
think he discounted it more as he has been fighting the big 'C' and has said

many times that the TR was his 'quiet' time.   (and it is possible he didn't

keep very good records on time spent)

Anyway - any/all suggestions will be appreciated.   I now have a very 
realistic completion date - VTR NATC summer 2010.

Carl
Tampa
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun May 17 00:09:24 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 06:09:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tools
In-Reply-To: <921701585-1242474978-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-803688726-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop><7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
	<921701585-1242474978-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-803688726-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W491AA306AD70861EFF2664E55D0@phx.gbl>

I agree with the sentiment of buying American.  Although I bought a torque
wrench at Sears a couple of months ago and the way it calibrates is not
convincingly accurate.  It is marked Made in USA.  I'm wondering if that is a
province in China.

Best regards,
Tom





_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. goes with you.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_
Mobile1_052009

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sun May 17 01:19:25 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 00:19:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Air Filters
Message-ID: <4A0FBA7D.1090508@comcast.net>

I have run across pictures on web showing cars with a band of filter
foam wrapped around the stock TR3 air filters. It looks like a good
idea, but I haven't figured out where to buy the foam filter material.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Mike

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun May 17 06:26:29 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 12:26:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <4A0FBA7D.1090508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <382923419.10495021242563189098.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I have run across pictures on web showing cars with a band of filter
>foam wrapped around the stock TR3 air filters. It looks like a good
>idea, but I haven't figured out where to buy the foam filter material.
>Any suggestions?

For several months I ran my stock TR3 air filters with an oilsoaked foam wrap
as you describe, Mike.B  Maybe it's because I drove every day, or because my
driveway is three hundred yards long and dirt, but the next time I pulled the
air filters, I actually wiped grit with my finger from the intake inlet just
in front of the piston.



Imagine that getting into your engine.B  Switched immediately to paper
filters.



Your experience may vary and all that.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Sun May 17 07:50:48 2009
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 8:50:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
In-Reply-To: <3B53C3F580CF4EC0BEE7F52CC2AB0F36@Study>
Message-ID: <20090517135048.4KQ5T.459753.root@hrndva-web02-z02>

Thanks, David.

This looks like the same illustration thats in the workshop manual.  It shows all of the carpet pieces and types of fasteners, and indicates example locations for some of the fasteners, but doesn't provide the comprehensive details of what fasterners are used where.  For example, how are the three carpet pieces that drape the tansmission tunnel affixed? I can't tell from any of the catalog and workshop manuals that I've got.

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4
1974 2000 GTV


---- David Brister <david.brister at wanadoo.fr> wrote: 
> Page 108 latest Moss Europe TR2-4A spare parts catalogue. I will scan the 
> page and send it along if you can't access it form your hemisphere!
> 
> David Brister
> 1967 TR4A. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
> We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
> SPAMfighter has removed 21307 of my spam emails to date.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
> 
> The Professional version does not have this message

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun May 17 11:20:42 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 10:20:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <4A0FBA7D.1090508@comcast.net>
References: <4A0FBA7D.1090508@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905171020h43cf0c19p4369dd91b2e0005e@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 12:19 AM, Michael Lang <mlang99 at comcast.net> wrote:

> I have run across pictures on web showing cars with a band of filter
> foam wrapped around the stock TR3 air filters. It looks like a good
> idea, but I haven't figured out where to buy the foam filter material.
> Any suggestions?


Here in the dusty Southwest desert they are pretty common.  Usually found at
shops that cater to off-road vehicle owners.

Geo

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Sun May 17 11:27:33 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 13:27:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
References: <d20.4fc8ce62.373f5927@aol.com>
Message-ID: <39B00C86C0784AF690EB50E0641394F0@Edscomputer>

List,

My spin on Import Carlisle:

1. It ain't what is used to be, but, then, neither are we.
2. It was sunny and warm and the beer was cold.
3. There were old friends everywhere that I get to see just once a year at 
Import.
4. Business was brisk at the WPTA (Western Penna Triumph Association) 
spaces. So was the BS.
5. My brother and I sold enough old, greasy British junk to pay for our 
trip: gas, turnpike tolls, overnight, food and beer.
6. I found 3 Healey 'A' type overdrive units for $250.
7. The real "treasures" are to be found on the early days of the show. 
Saturday is for leftovers.
8. I'll be back next year.
9. I wish I'd bought that orange Healey 3000 and the TR4A seats!

Ed Woods 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun May 17 11:45:24 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 10:45:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
In-Reply-To: <20090517135048.4KQ5T.459753.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
References: <3B53C3F580CF4EC0BEE7F52CC2AB0F36@Study>
	<20090517135048.4KQ5T.459753.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905171045l103957caq3353769109094588@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 6:50 AM, <dmericas at austin.rr.com> wrote:

> ...For example, how are the three carpet pieces that drape the tansmission
> tunnel affixed? I can't tell from any of the catalog and workshop manuals
> that I've got.
>

The tunnel pieces are secured using the ring-with-pointy-thing and it's
complementary female snap (called a Veltex).  The male snap is on the metal
or fibreboard tunnel cover.  The 3-pc carpet snap is Moss p/n 228-128.

If you have neither the original carpet nor the original fibreboard tunnel
then location is approximate.

I have attached 2 photos -- since the snaps are almost invisible once
installed I have used a bit of white tape where each is located.

First photo in the rear (metal) tunnel.  One pair of snaps near the forward
edge -- perhaps you still have the male snap on the tunnel or at least the
hole where it was riveted.  The rear of that carpet is secured by the
eye-bolts for the seat belts.

Second photo shows one side of the main tunnel, it is secured to the tunnel
by 3 pairs of those same snaps.

If I have missed anything someone tell me.

I realize that the list version of this message will have the images
stripped off -- if anyone wants to see them pmail me.

Dean -- let me know if you need other pics or some measurements.

Geo

PS -- To locate the snaps you can put the male snaps on, then press the
correctly positioned carpet firmly against it leaving an impression that
will tell you where to mount the female snap.  If the carpet you are using
doesn't leave an impression then a bit of white chalk on the male snap will
mark the spot well.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TunnelCarpet1.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TunnelCarpet2.JPG]

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun May 17 11:46:20 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 13:46:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <39B00C86C0784AF690EB50E0641394F0@Edscomputer>
References: <d20.4fc8ce62.373f5927@aol.com>
	<39B00C86C0784AF690EB50E0641394F0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W464FB3DB7A53C7C8A84687BA5D0@phx.gbl>

Glad its not time to get the shovels out. Probably had the small journal 1296
block I need sitting there just waiting for me to show up and take home. It is
on my places to go list some year when I am not trying to get a car running
for spring (or summer of fall or......)

Marty

> From: fogbro1 at comcast.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 13:27:33 -0400
> Subject: Re: [TR] Carlisle Import
>
> List,
>
> My spin on Import Carlisle:
>
> 1. It ain't what is used to be, but, then, neither are we.
> 2. It was sunny and warm and the beer was cold.
> 3. There were old friends everywhere that I get to see just once a year at
> Import.
> 4. Business was brisk at the WPTA (Western Penna Triumph Association)
> spaces. So was the BS.
> 5. My brother and I sold enough old, greasy British junk to pay for our
> trip: gas, turnpike tolls, overnight, food and beer.
> 6. I found 3 Healey 'A' type overdrive units for $250.
> 7. The real "treasures" are to be found on the early days of the show.
> Saturday is for leftovers.
> 8. I'll be back next year.
> 9. I wish I'd bought that orange Healey 3000 and the TR4A seats!
>
> Ed Woods
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail..
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
l_QuickAdd1_052009

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sun May 17 11:54:23 2009
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 13:54:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W2554AC79D52E9354B3D402A55F0@phx.gbl>
References: <ce5.407cf878.36321132@cs.com>
	<338D20D88E7246958E50701D5AFA282C@jdnet.deere.com> 
	<5C2CD1965FE3424C98CBFA905E40781E@pistol> 
	<COL119-W2554AC79D52E9354B3D402A55F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <COL119-W136684FB87495ADCC074D9A55D0@phx.gbl>

> I'm going tomorrow (Saturday).
>
>
>
> John H.


Well, the best laid plans...



Left at about 9:00 a.m. in Dale, the old red Chevy truck with a friend. Had to
jump-start Dale. Took Dale instead of a car in order to pick up an engine from
Wirewheel for my friend.



On I-81 North, the battery light began to glow. The voltage dropped lower and
lower so we exited and went north on Rt. 11, looking for an AutoZone or
something. I figgered a new battery would get us there even if the alternator
was toast. Dale quit in front of a Honda dealer. After a new overpriced
alternator AND battery from the dealer, paid for by my friend, we continued up
I-81 until Dale quit again. Felt like he just ran out of gas even though the
gauge read half full.



Dale shook as the semis raced by two feet from him. Long story short; Good
Samaritan, gas can, roll-back ride home, bottom line Hayes Harris still has
the engine and is probably back in Vero Beach by now.



Hayes offered to load the engine into Dale on the shoulder of I-81. Considered
it for a while. Thought better of it.



Bummer.



John H.

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Sun May 17 12:01:07 2009
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 13:01:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905171045l103957caq3353769109094588@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090517180107.BAKX0.461046.root@hrndva-web02-z02>

Geo --

This is exactly what I needed.

Are there any attachments to the floor pieces under the seats and the front edge of the "rear seat" carpet?

Thanks.

Dean

---- Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote: 
> On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 6:50 AM, <dmericas at austin.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> > ...For example, how are the three carpet pieces that drape the tansmission
> > tunnel affixed? I can't tell from any of the catalog and workshop manuals
> > that I've got.
> >
> 
> The tunnel pieces are secured using the ring-with-pointy-thing and it's
> complementary female snap (called a Veltex).  The male snap is on the metal
> or fibreboard tunnel cover.  The 3-pc carpet snap is Moss p/n 228-128.
> 
> If you have neither the original carpet nor the original fibreboard tunnel
> then location is approximate.
> 
> I have attached 2 photos -- since the snaps are almost invisible once
> installed I have used a bit of white tape where each is located.
> 
> First photo in the rear (metal) tunnel.  One pair of snaps near the forward
> edge -- perhaps you still have the male snap on the tunnel or at least the
> hole where it was riveted.  The rear of that carpet is secured by the
> eye-bolts for the seat belts.
> 
> Second photo shows one side of the main tunnel, it is secured to the tunnel
> by 3 pairs of those same snaps.
> 
> If I have missed anything someone tell me.
> 
> I realize that the list version of this message will have the images
> stripped off -- if anyone wants to see them pmail me.
> 
> Dean -- let me know if you need other pics or some measurements.
> 
> Geo
> 
> PS -- To locate the snaps you can put the male snaps on, then press the
> correctly positioned carpet firmly against it leaving an impression that
> will tell you where to mount the female snap.  If the carpet you are using
> doesn't leave an impression then a bit of white chalk on the male snap will
> mark the spot well.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun May 17 12:33:36 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 11:33:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
In-Reply-To: <20090517180107.BAKX0.461046.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
References: <7bb181af0905171045l103957caq3353769109094588@mail.gmail.com>
	<20090517180107.BAKX0.461046.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905171133g31e331a5tb26e072ba4dc217e@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 11:01 AM, <dmericas at austin.rr.com> wrote:

> Are there any attachments to the floor pieces under the seats and the front
> edge of the "rear seat" carpet?


Again -- I can only describe what is on my TR4 so if someone knows different
they'll say.

The carpet under the seats is held in place by way of being under the
bolted-down seat tracks.

The carpet in the footwell is held at the rear by snaps at each corner (i.e.
2 per side).

That footwell carpet is held at its top end by metal clips, two on each
carpet piece (I don't think you're a fully initiated TR owner until you've
caught a finger in one of those clips). I do not see those clips in the Moss
catalog and do not know if they are available.

I do not use the snaps on the front carpet as I have the original layer of
jute pad and a layer of foil-backed insulation making the whole thing too
thick for the stock snaps.  I did not pull the carpet out to see if there
were more snaps (I do not recall others) but the 2 pairs on the rear edge
were easy to look at and confirm.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun May 17 12:40:02 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 11:40:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 carpet installation details
In-Reply-To: <20090517180107.BAKX0.461046.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
References: <7bb181af0905171045l103957caq3353769109094588@mail.gmail.com>
	<20090517180107.BAKX0.461046.root@hrndva-web02-z02>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905171140p2ea6eecfq1d51b41af0577ca2@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 11:01 AM, <dmericas at austin.rr.com> wrote:

> ...the front edge of the "rear seat" carpet?


Rereading the question I think I omitted something...

If you're referring to the carpet that covers that sort of parcel shelf...
the vertical portion is glued in place, the flat portion is not glued but
rather held by the series of lift-the-dot fasteners across the back edge --
it, of course, has to be free to be lifted away when undoing the rear
seatback to raise and lower the top.

That semi-circular piece that covers the rearmost section of the tunnel is
also glued down.

Geo

From staffel at comcast.net  Sun May 17 16:26:02 2009
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 22:26:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] Throttle shaft bushing surgery alternative
Message-ID: <2103858979-1242599147-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1210433864-@bxe1065.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I've had success with oil wipe on shaft near carb body, brake clean body adjacent shaft with Q tip/brake cleaner, and with popsicle stick-black hi temp RTV.

The oil allows the rtv not to stick to the shaft, but only to the carb body-and it seals the intake air leak just as rtv would do on an American V-8 intake manifold!
Always a good trick to get home on a trip or for a club drive or a few until winter surgery!
Sherman D Taffel
TR4, E-V12Jag, Jensen GT's- all with Stromberg CD or CD2 carbs!
Black RTV Also solves bowl plug leaks on CD2's -so you don,t have to chance snapping plug ears when O rings leak! If you can gently pry out plastic plugs-5 wraps@ of teflon tape will hold for 5-6 years!
Always carry Ttape. +RTV
 Sdt Columbia MD+Goldvein VA
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun May 17 18:41:08 2009
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 20:41:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Carlisle Import
In-Reply-To: <F158A84A2487427E89BD8A830C8E0B8E@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>
References: <703795042B384B40BCEE1AC2CF84B99C@newbox>
	<F158A84A2487427E89BD8A830C8E0B8E@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>
Message-ID: <DFF37BD0BD924EF2AEA439B3F26C4B88@Scott>

There were 5 rows of vendors, but shortened in length from past years. I
bought 5 excellent TR6 steel wheels for $75 (no shipping fees).  Yes, it is
not the same as in past years and certainly hard to justify if it is a long
trip (I live 25 minutes away), but still is a great weekend with good
friends.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rx74evr at mchsi.com
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 7:42 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] Carlisle Import

Must have been the only deal there, glad your friend got them, now everyone 
else can go home since the only deal is now gone...


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Laurito" <trglory at verizon.net>
To: <rx74evr at mchsi.com>; "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 6:21 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] Carlisle Import


This morning a friend scored an excellent set of early TR6 high back seats
for $50 each. Too bad you guys missed them.

Joe
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as suhringtr36 at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May 17 21:18:58 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 22:18:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] brakes
References: <291772.21200.bm@omp403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <67017FB175624780865C620F5D584970@yourpd3mh0abgs>

any ideas where to get the tr4 brake drums for the very early live axle 
cars??  front brakes are tr3-esque, but the rears are smaller than the tr3 
drums.
Best,
Ray

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May 17 21:45:45 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 22:45:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Air Filters
References: <382923419.10495021242563189098.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2E40C4C06F0F43E5BA8553D1B0CB0DA3@yourpd3mh0abgs>

i just happen to have a pair of new k&n's for 40 bucks...i bolted them on a 
car (not a tr), and the supercharger didn't work with them.  for the h6 like 
on the tr4.  i had planned to put them on ebay.
i don't know if they fit under the hood of a 3.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: "Michael Lang" <mlang99 at comcast.net>
Cc: "triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 7:26 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Air Filters


> >I have run across pictures on web showing cars with a band of filter
>>foam wrapped around the stock TR3 air filters. It looks like a good
>>idea, but I haven't figured out where to buy the foam filter material.
>>Any suggestions?
>
> For several months I ran my stock TR3 air filters with an oilsoaked foam 
> wrap
> as you describe, Mike.B  Maybe it's because I drove every day, or because 
> my
> driveway is three hundred yards long and dirt, but the next time I pulled 
> the
> air filters, I actually wiped grit with my finger from the intake inlet 
> just
> in front of the piston.
>
>
>
> Imagine that getting into your engine.B  Switched immediately to paper
> filters.
>
>
>
> Your experience may vary and all that.
>
>
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
> New Hampshire
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 17 22:32:24 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 21:32:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] brakes
In-Reply-To: <67017FB175624780865C620F5D584970@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <20090518043223214.NXF748@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> any ideas where to get the tr4 brake drums for the very early 
> live axle cars??  front brakes are tr3-esque, but the rears 
> are smaller than the tr3 drums.

Interesting.  For decades, the 10" drums were unobtanium; now it appears the
situation is reversed.  Go figure.

All TR4s (and solid axle 4A) take the same Girling 9" rear drums as TR3A
from about TS56377 onwards, Stanpart 201493.  However, Moss USA & TRF show
them as NLA; while Moss UK & VB claim that the IRS drums will fit.  They
won't, of course, unless they are supplied with oversize stud holes or are
modified by the user; as the solid axle cars have a collar on the rear wheel
studs that the drums have to fit over.  However, it shouldn't be too hard to
drill out the stud holes, if all else fails, which might be all it takes to
make the IRS drums fit later solid axle cars.

Randall

From thebujas at comcast.net  Mon May 18 00:32:20 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 01:32:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph TransAmerica Stag - first day of on-road testing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1242583202.15782.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIKEFIDGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

We took Uncle Jack out for a drive today.  Visit the TTA website
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/
for a brief account of the work we performed this weekend.

The TTA site also has a link to a 56 second YouTube video of the results of
all of our efforts.  You may also view it directly from this link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6b-eCEAbYnQ

We need help with the power steering - we're not getting any power assist.
We rebuilt the pump today and found nothing internally that was obviously
wrong.

If you've rebuilt a Saginaw P/S pump, does the arrow on the outside of the
eccentric casing go toward the rear (hose side) or the front (pulley side)
of the pump housing?  Does the arrow correspond to the rotation direction or
does it have some other meaning?  We installed the arrow so that it was on
the rear of the pump casing.

Tim Buja

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon May 18 07:09:48 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 09:09:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tools
In-Reply-To: <921701585-1242474978-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-803688726-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop><7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
	<921701585-1242474978-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-803688726-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <003001c9d7b9$ebefe960$c3cfbc20$@net>

Where was your BlackBerry made?

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rbtr3a at cox.net
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 10:36 PM
To: Bob Jones; triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net; Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Tools

Bob 
I'm with you, I sick of everything made in china.  I'm doing my best to try
to find things made in the United States of America. Paying a little more
will pay off in the long run in more ways than we know. 

 Although my statement is kinda hypocritical on a British car forum.  
Yesterday I was reading bumper stickers while stopped in traffic, and it
made me think that if I had a buy American sticker I might put it on my
Yukon.  I hate bumper stickers on my own cars. 

Ronnie
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>

Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 21:19:43 
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Tools


I was in Lowe's tonight and was looking at the tools as I usually do.  I 
noticed for the first time that the majority of the "Vise-Grips" they had 
were now made in China.  I ask a salesman and he said the plant in Nebraska 
had been shut down and the American made ones were in short supply.  In my 
old age I have just quit buying chinese tools (life's too short for junk) 
and now stick to American made ones.  They are the best in the world, 
overall, and even though they cost more, my grandchildren will still be 
using them 50 years from now.  I bought the last set of "quick release" 
American made Vise-Grips they had.  With these two new ones, the other four 
I have should be the last I need.  If you feel the way I do, then you better

pick some up before they are all gone.   Whats next, Channel Loc?

Bob 
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From steven at newellboys.net  Mon May 18 08:35:21 2009
From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 08:35:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905131946290.10091@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905131946290.10091@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <4A117229.6000105@newellboys.net>

nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:

> Hi everybody
>   It's been a while since we had any early-TR4 questions, so here goes.
>   On the "very early" cars, according to Piggot, the windshield cap 
> and cockpit perimeter trim pieces were chrome-plated brass.  This 
> changed quickly to the much more common anodized aluminum pieces.
>   I have located what might be an early chrome-plated windshield cap, 
> and I need a little help:
>
> 1. Are the early pieces magnetic at all?  Piggot says it's brass under 
> there, so there should not be any attraction... but I've heard it said 
> on this list that the parts are actually chrome-plated steel.  The 
> seller says he's not sure if there is any attraction or not.  Maybe 
> it's stainless steel?
> 2. Are there any visual differences between the early and later parts, 
> other than shinyness?  (I have seen this on a couple of early cars... 
> too bad I wasn't paying closer attention)
> 3. When did the switch to aluminum occur?
> 4. What's an early windshield cap worth? 

1. How about that? I have a set of the early trim pieces and they're 
mildly magnetic. A weak fridge magnet I have didn't stick but a stronger 
bulletin-board magnet did when I held the piece upside down.
2. They appear to be identical stampings. The aluminum pieces should be 
slightly tweaked from kids climbing in and out of the bench seat. On 
mine, at least. :) The aluminum looks slightly yellowey-er to me, but 
really not much.
3. My CT5018LO has aluminum trim pieces all around.
4. Depends on if it's on eBay or not. :) Since it's only "correct" on a 
small number of cars, it's worth either very little or very much.

Steven

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Mon May 18 09:06:43 2009
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:06:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] sources for grommets and blank off plugs
Message-ID: <d5d.3c46f4c5.3742d383@aol.com>

Any one have a source for reasonably priced grommets and more importantly 
rubber blank off plugs.
id like to buy one of those trays of multiple sizes, but i cant find any at 
the usual reasonably priced stores, like harbor freight ETC
thanks
frank
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
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=Mayfooter51809NO115)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May 18 09:15:05 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:15:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] sources for grommets and blank off plugs
In-Reply-To: <d5d.3c46f4c5.3742d383@aol.com>
References: <d5d.3c46f4c5.3742d383@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200905181115.05900.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 18 May 2009 11:06:43 am FGFO1 at aol.com wrote:
> Any one have a source for reasonably priced grommets and more importantly
> rubber blank off plugs.
> id like to buy one of those trays of multiple sizes, but i cant find any at
> the usual reasonably priced stores, like harbor freight ETC
> thanks
> frank
Frank,

All the grommets I have sourced locally dont fit on any of my Triumphs.

I did get a cheap set at HF but I havent found any use for them.

I always end up getting my grommets and blanking plugs at TRF when they are on 
sale.

Bob

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon May 18 09:28:00 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 09:28:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] sources for grommets and blank off plugs
In-Reply-To: <d5d.3c46f4c5.3742d383@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090518152816.172AE187883@autox.team.net>

Try these guys, Summit Racing.  125pc kit for $10.00
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+-113452&D=-113452


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FGFO1 at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 9:07 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] sources for grommets and blank off plugs

Any one have a source for reasonably priced grommets and more importantly
rubber blank off plugs.
id like to buy one of those trays of multiple sizes, but i cant find any at
the usual reasonably priced stores, like harbor freight ETC thanks frank
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322941x1201367178/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=Mayfooter51809NO115)
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon May 18 10:57:24 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 12:57:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] sources for grommets and blank off plugs
Message-ID: <ca1.56fb77dc.3742ed74@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/18/2009 10:07:13 AM Central Daylight Time, 
FGFO1 at aol.com writes: 
> Any one have a source for reasonably priced grommets and more importantly 
> 
> rubber blank off plugs.
> id like to buy one of those trays of multiple sizes, but i cant find any 
> at 
> the usual reasonably priced stores, like harbor freight ETC
> thanks
> 
TRF has been mentioned.  Other sources are Moss and British Wire, both 
carry a good selection with the intention of fitting our cars specifically.

I don't know what you mean by "reasonably priced" but considering the cost 
of shipping, getting the right parts the first time is worth something.  
Measure your holes and find the right plug/grommet and you're golden.

Dave

From aribert at c3net.net  Mon May 18 11:12:49 2009
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 13:12:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Anyone use or know of:  Evans NPG+   coolant?
Message-ID: <142d67f401bce5407f8a765c8e272379.squirrel@server6.glis.net>

Does anyone on this list know of this product or have first hand
experience with it? This product has a 375 boil point. Other than cost,
what are they not conveying in their web page?  If this stuff works, it
would be a whole lot more economical than an Aluminum GT6 radiator.  
http://www.evanscooling.com/html/auto1.htm

A little background - my GT6 (back in it's stock coupe configuration)
never had an overheating issue.  Along with the Spit body, I upgraded to a
5 row radiator core and the 2.5L engine (the head is now shaved 0.140
inches).  THis morning driving to work the ambient temp was 37 deg F.  I
choose not to turn the auxillary pusher cooling fan on (stock GT6 plastic
fan is still in place and functioning).  My drive is about 12 miles of
traffic lights every mile (stopped for one light cycle, 45 mph between the
lights).  Followed by about 6 miles of Interstate at 70+ mph.  THe water
temp needle was within 1/16 inch of touching the red. The water temp did
not drop while on the freeway.  From past testing, the water temp in the
upper rad tank / upper rad hoses in 210 deg F at this gage reading.  From
past experience, when the needle is centered on the red mark on the gage,
the car begins to boil over.

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon May 18 11:31:40 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 13:31:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anyone use or know of:  Evans NPG+   coolant?
In-Reply-To: <142d67f401bce5407f8a765c8e272379.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
Message-ID: <20090518133140.4NX8F.2876588.root@mp17>

---- aribert at c3net.net wrote: 

> THis morning driving to work the ambient temp was 37 deg F.
<snip>
>  THe water
> temp needle was within 1/16 inch of touching the red. The water temp did
> not drop while on the freeway.  From past testing, the water temp in the
> upper rad tank / upper rad hoses in 210 deg F at this gage reading.  From
> past experience, when the needle is centered on the red mark on the gage,
> the car begins to boil over.

It's not clear if high-powered cooling system is new or if it worked satisfactorily prior to this hot day.

Before I bought snake oil by the gallon, I'd check to make sure that "past testing" = "present testing".  In other words, is the gauge still accurate?   I'd suspect a voltage stabilizer problem before anything else...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Mon May 18 11:33:50 2009
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 10:33:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
Message-ID: <361967.84300.qm@web51305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all

I'm replacing my wood dash and the ammeter on my '69 TR6 came out more in pieces than as a whole, is there a source for rebuilding gauges?  if not, has anyone used other gauges (VDO?) with success?

thanks!
Steve

CC25805

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Mon May 18 11:37:36 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:37:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] [stag] TTA Stag Status - May 17 - Exquisite!
Message-ID: <4A119CE0.3070906@tscusa.org>

Ladies and Gentlemen of the ISOA,

Exquisite!

A car, a Triumph Stag, starting over one year ago that went from fully 
assembled pile of rusted and dented parts, through complete nut and bolt 
disassembly, to individual part restoration, to full nut and bolt 
assembly concours restoration - all occurring right at my initial 
estimate of 66 weekends.

Yes, weekends!!

Astounding, absolutely astounding.

Not at all for my insignificant time estimate by any means, but simply 
astounded at the sheer drive, dedication and commitment of an 
outstanding group of Triumph enthusiasts to step forward for such a 
cause as this, giving up most all of their weekends over the past 14 
months to accomplish this quality restoration for a charitable cause.

This cause of course is to drive this wonderfully restored Triumph Stag 
across North America - 12,000 miles in about 3 months, promoting 
awareness for the infliction named - Post Traumatic Stress Disorder - 
PTSD, and promote action to provide diagnosis, aid and support to those 
afflicted both directly and indirectly from this syndrome.

The Stag Triumph Trans America (restoration) Group - STTAG- lead by Joe 
Pawlak of ISOA should be very proud of your accomplishments. Over the 
next 4 months, Illinois Sports Owners Association - ISOA name, acronym 
and members will become synonymous with the theme and goal of this 
charity drive, that of seeing a need, identifying the goal, and not only 
accomplishing the task, but going far beyond the call.

To you fine upstanding people (okay, so you don't get that too often), 
the ladies and gentlemen of the Illinois Sports Owners Association, I 
express my sincere thanks and appreciation for your labors. This is a 
great thing you have all accomplished, a really great thing.

And to all the fine people who contributed money toward accomplishing 
this end, my thanks to you also. This unselfish support from so many 
Triumph enthusiasts enabled us to purchase the Stag and begin this 
undertaking. If these generous people, including representatives of the 
12 host clubs supporting the drive can attend the informal unveiling the 
last weekend of May in Illinois, we would love to shake your hand in 
appreciation.

As a reminder, and for the Official kickoff of the Triumph Trans 
American Charity Drive 2009, John Macartney turns the key on this 
Charity Drive and engages the clutch at the Holly Hills Florida Office 
of Grass Roots MotorSports at 915 Ridgewood Avenueat the corner of 
Ridgewood Avenue (US-1) and 9th Street, two blocks south of LPGA Blvd, 
Saturday, 27 June, 2009.
see http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/events/open-house/
I have not been able to register for the event on the Grass Roots web 
site and it appears others cannot either, so just show up!

Now the tweaking of the STTAG begins for the next 4 weeks.

See you all in Florida!

Sincere Regards,

-- 
Glenn Merrell
North American Coordinator, TTA Charity Drive 2009
303-665-6040 voice
303-665-7820 fax
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon May 18 12:18:46 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 14:18:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anyone use or know of:  Evans NPG+   coolant?
In-Reply-To: <142d67f401bce5407f8a765c8e272379.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
References: <142d67f401bce5407f8a765c8e272379.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
Message-ID: <8CBA5FC37999505-970-AD7@MBLK-M14.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: aribert at c3net.net










A little background - my GT6 (back in it's stock coupe configuration)
never had an overheating issue.  Along with the Spit body, I upgraded to a
5 row radiator core and the 2.5L engine (the head is now shaved 0.140
inches).  THis morning driving to work the ambient temp was 37 deg F.  I
choose not to turn the auxillary pusher cooling fan on (stock GT6 plastic
fan is still in place and functioning).  My drive is about 12 miles of
traffic lights every mile (stopped for one light cycle, 45 mph between the
lights).  Followed by about 6 miles of Interstate at 70+ mph.  THe water
temp needle was within 1/16 inch of touching the red. The water temp did
not drop while on the freeway.  From past testing, the water temp in the
upper rad tank / upper rad hoses in 210 deg F at this gage reading.  From
past experience, when the needle is centered on the red mark on the gage,
the car begins to boil over.

==AM==
First time out with the car in this configuration? If not, has it been behaving ok up until this incident?

Before trying any "band-aid" fixes, I'd want to do all the classic checks:

1. measure actual water temperature with some sort of kitchen thermometer, infrared thermometer, etc.
2. check operation of thermostat
3. do complete drain, flush and refill, ensuring that the block is clean (water gushes out block drain; probe with stiff wire as needed)
4. check for any other obvious problems (leaking/split hoses, etc.)


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From davgil at aol.com  Mon May 18 12:45:27 2009
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 14:45:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 air pump rattle
Message-ID: <8CBA5FFF273C9FC-FB8-F4B@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com>

This should be a softball for the experts on this list, but I simply don't know the answer.? While?running the engine in my 1976 TR6, I heard what sounded like a rattle that I had not noticed before, though it may have been merrily rattling along for some time.? As I focused on the sound, I believe that it is coming from the air pump (smog pump?) rather than from the engine internals.? If this is the problem, and I decide to eliminate the pump, can I simply remove the belt between the water pump and air pump with no further action necessary, or should I blank off the connection from the pump?? If I am going to remove the pump, should I remove all of the pollution controls?? I am in Georgia and the car no longer requires an inspection so that particular issue will not raise its ugly head.? The car is an occasional driver, not a daily driver.? Except for a Crane electronic ignition, my car is very stock with all pollution equipment still in place.? Your advice is greatly appreciated.
David Gill
1976 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 18 13:18:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 12:18:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 air pump rattle
In-Reply-To: <8CBA5FFF273C9FC-FB8-F4B@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBA5FFF273C9FC-FB8-F4B@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <D048A20D8AEE449FBED77885BDD5EAD1@jdnet.deere.com>

David,

The pump should contain a check valve, such that it will not allow exhaust
gases back into the intake even with the belt removed.  Thus it should be OK
to just remove the belt.

But, it's possible that check valve is no longer effective, so you might
want to keep an eye on it; or just go ahead and block it off.

-- Randall 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May 18 13:23:49 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 15:23:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 air pump rattle
In-Reply-To: <8CBA5FFF273C9FC-FB8-F4B@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CBA5FFF273C9FC-FB8-F4B@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <C54DA81059604EFCBBB0078BF14D9AD2@BOBSNEWPC>

Dave,
My air pump packed it in about 6 or 8 years ago. The first thing I did was
to do a test run to make sure it was the air pump making the noise. I was
pretty confident seeing as moving the pulley by hand felt and sounded like a
bunch of out of round marbles. Basically I ran the car bypassing the pulley
to see how things sounded. Then I removed the pump and all the hoses and
installed a plug in the EGR fitting. The carbon canister was left in place
and connected. A year ago I finally got around to removing the air rail from
the manifold and plugging it.
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ManifoldRepair.htm 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of davgil at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 2:45 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 air pump rattle

This should be a softball for the experts on this list, but I simply don't
know the answer.? While?running the engine in my 1976 TR6, I heard what
sounded like a rattle that I had not noticed before, though it may have been
merrily rattling along for some time.? As I focused on the sound, I believe
that it is coming from the air pump (smog pump?) rather than from the engine
internals.? If this is the problem, and I decide to eliminate the pump, can
I simply remove the belt between the water pump and air pump with no further
action necessary, or should I blank off the connection from the pump?? If I
am going to remove the pump, should I remove all of the pollution controls??
I am in Georgia and the car no longer requires an inspection so that
particular issue will not raise its ugly head.? The car is an occasional
driver, not a daily driver.? Except for a Crane electronic ignition, my car
is very stock with all pollution equipment still in place.? Your advice is
greatly apprec  iated.
David Gill
1976 TR6
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http://www.vtr.org


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From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon May 18 14:21:15 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 16:21:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] 1976 TR6 air pump rattle
Message-ID: <d0e.496ff4c0.37431d3b@aol.com>

Wow, David......you're still using the "smog pump"!!  Seriously, you  can 
live very well without it and, in my opinion, your engine will thank  you.  
But, as a far as the noise goes, try using a 2 foot section of garden  hose 
(or similar rubber hose) as a stethoscope against the body of the  pump.  If 
the bearings are rattling, you'll hear them loud-n-clear  in your ear.  
Or......disconnect the belt to the air pump and see if  the noise goes away.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U 
 
 
In a message dated 5/18/2009 2:49:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
davgil at aol.com writes:

I  believe that it is coming from the air pump (smog pump?) 

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
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=Mayfooter51809NO115)

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Mon May 18 15:10:04 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 17:10:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
In-Reply-To: <361967.84300.qm@web51305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <361967.84300.qm@web51305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A11CEAC.8060909@earthlink.net>

Steve,

Mo-Ma in Albuquerque, New Mexico. 

Joe

Steve Smith wrote:
> Hi all
>
> I'm replacing my wood dash and the ammeter on my '69 TR6 came out more in pieces than as a whole, is there a source for rebuilding gauges?  if not, has anyone used other gauges (VDO?) with success?
>
> thanks!
> Steve
>
> CC25805
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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>
>
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>
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From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon May 18 15:19:12 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 17:19:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumph TransAmerica Stag - first day of on-road  testing
Message-ID: <cbe.3efe6c5e.37432ad0@aol.com>

Waahooo......what a sweet sound.....great job guys!
 
Sorry I can't help with the P/S pump...I'm sure you'll get it sorted out  
soon:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 5/18/2009 2:32:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
thebujas at comcast.net writes:

We took  Uncle Jack out for a drive today.  Visit the TTA  website
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/
for a brief account of  the work we performed this weekend.

The TTA site also has a link to a  56 second YouTube video of the results of
all of our efforts.  You may  also view it directly from this  link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6b-eCEAbYnQ

We need help with  the power steering - we're not getting any power assist.
We rebuilt the  pump today and found nothing internally that was obviously
wrong.

If  you've rebuilt a Saginaw P/S pump, does the arrow on the outside of  the
eccentric casing go toward the rear (hose side) or the front (pulley  side)
of the pump housing?  Does the arrow correspond to the rotation  direction 
or
does it have some other meaning?  We installed the arrow  so that it was on
the rear of the pump casing.

Tim  Buja
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


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=Mayfooter51809NO115)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 18 15:20:18 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 14:20:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
In-Reply-To: <361967.84300.qm@web51305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <361967.84300.qm@web51305.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F6C37239E9CC49F1A1FBD640A7B717A6@jdnet.deere.com>

> I'm replacing my wood dash and the ammeter on my '69 TR6 came out more in
> pieces than as a whole, is there a source for rebuilding gauges?

Several, including Mo-Ma, Nisonger, West Hollywood Speedo, Van Nuys
instruments, etc.  But I would think it would be a lot cheaper and quicker
to just pick up a used unit.  Eg,
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230339274735
unless you particularly want an "as new" unit for shows or whatever.

>   if not,
> has anyone used other gauges (VDO?) with success?

It's a standard size hole, so almost any 2" (or sometimes called 2-1/16")
aftermarket gauge will fit and work fine.  Sun, VDO, etc.  One of my TR3As
came to me with some aftermarket ammeter in the dash, Cal-Van or something
like that.  Looked ugly to me, so I promptly replaced it with a Lucas.  It's
still in the parts bin, you can have it if you want.

-- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 18 15:33:55 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 14:33:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Anyone use or know of:  Evans NPG+   coolant?
In-Reply-To: <142d67f401bce5407f8a765c8e272379.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
References: <142d67f401bce5407f8a765c8e272379.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
Message-ID: <D4071FA3B8F74EE88C173BD37C1CAE3D@jdnet.deere.com>

> Does anyone on this list know of this product or have first hand
> experience with it?

The topic has come up from time to time over the years, we were just
debating it the other day on the Stag list.  The NPG is more viscous (so
doesn't flow as well unless you upgrade the pump), and has less heat
capacity (so doesn't cool as well unless you upgrade the pump and radiator).
Yeah, it probably won't boil, but your engine WILL run hotter.

BTW, you can do the same thing with pure ordinary antifreeze (even higher BP
than NPG).  I tried that on a TR3A, many years ago ... a year later the
engine swallowed a valve and spit most of #3 cylinder out the tailpipe.  In
that case, I believe extreme lean mixture at cruise was the cause of both
the persistent overheating, and the valve stem eroding until it broke.

Especially since I wound up spending my Christmas break lying in the snow
repairing the damage, it's not an experience I care to repeat.

As someone already mentioned, my first thought would be the voltage
stabilizer, followed by the accuracy of the gauge.  But no matter what the
problem, I would recommend finding and fixing it, rather than trying to put
a band-aid over it.

-- Randall

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Mon May 18 16:22:18 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 15:22:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905181522180.16352@hymn32.u.washington.edu>

Thanks, Steven
   This is quickly becoming the majority opinion.  Even several people who initially reported no magnetism tried it again with a bigger magnet and found some slight attraction.  This says "stainless steel" to me... presumably triple-plated, with the copper layer responsible for the brassy look in spots where the chrome wears off.
   Mystery solved?
-Nick


On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 7:35 AM, Steven Newell <steven at newellboys.net> wrote:

>1. How about that? I have a set of the early trim pieces and they're mildly
>magnetic. A weak fridge magnet I have didn't stick but a stronger bulletin-
>board magnet did when I held the piece upside down.
>2. They appear to be identical stampings. The aluminum pieces should be
>slightly tweaked from kids climbing in and out of the bench seat. On mine, at
>least. :) The aluminum looks slightly yellowey-er to me, but really not much.
>3. My CT5018LO has aluminum trim pieces all around.
>4. Depends on if it's on eBay or not. :) Since it's only "correct" on a small
>number of cars, it's worth either very little or very much.
>Steven

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 18 17:06:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 16:06:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905181522180.16352@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905181522180.16352@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <CE1261DDA3F64E7AB9A8A6DC080389ED@jdnet.deere.com>

>    This is quickly becoming the majority opinion.  Even several people who
> initially reported no magnetism tried it again with a bigger magnet and
> found some slight attraction.  This says "stainless steel" to me...

I really have no opinion here, as I've never owned a TR4.  But couldn't it
be the nickel in the "triple chrome" that is providing the attraction?  

Chroming stainless just doesn't make a lot of sense to me.

-- Randall 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon May 18 17:06:54 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 23:06:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
In-Reply-To: <F6C37239E9CC49F1A1FBD640A7B717A6@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1007297590.11125251242688014232.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> I'm replacing my wood dash and the ammeter on my '69 TR6 came out more in
> pieces than as a whole, is there a source for rebuilding gauges?
> B  if not, has anyone used other gauges (VDO?) with success?

I just retrofitted my TR3A to all Sunpro guages for the oil, temp, volt, and
fuel.B  The fuel and temp required Sunpro sending units.B  Not a problem.B 
All this for a fraction of the cost of rebuilding guages.B 



Lastly, I will not refrain from my issue with Mo-Ma.B  They charged $700 to
rebuild my guages, and sent me back a product that was probably fine inside
(although the fuel guage stopped working and the speedometer reads bad), but
they never bothered to even paint the needles that had turned ellow and were
bent.B  I might have forgiven them if they hadn't held my guages for weeks
beyond their estimate because they had, and I quote the essence of what they
said,"better customers who used them more often."B  They meant concourse
people who didn't drive their cars.



When I say this, I always add that I rebuilt this car from the basic bolts up,
and have nothing but awed praise for TRF, Moss, and Gilander.B  I'm not hard
to please at all, but I'm not a foolB either.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon May 18 17:10:20 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 16:10:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pinion Seal R&R TR3/4
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905181610v46fe6fd9w1bfa24021eff4beb@mail.gmail.com>

Am I correct in guessing that to remove the flange and get at the pinion
seal I need only undo the rear end of the driveshaft, propping it up and out
of my way?  (i.e the front driveshaft flange remains bolted to the gearbox
output)

Yes, I could just try it and see but if I have to completely remove the
driveshaft I would prefer to do the front connection first before getting
the car up and me under.  Thanks for any advice.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon May 18 17:33:51 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 16:33:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
In-Reply-To: <CE1261DDA3F64E7AB9A8A6DC080389ED@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905181522180.16352@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
	<CE1261DDA3F64E7AB9A8A6DC080389ED@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905181633x29bc2b3dp8ed08f5f5d70c83d@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 4:06 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> ...Chroming stainless just doesn't make a lot of sense to me.


I wondered about that too -- like the Olympic athlete who was so proud of
his gold medal that he had it bronzed -- but I never thought of the nickel
aspect.

Geo

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Mon May 18 17:37:42 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 19:37:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
In-Reply-To: <1007297590.11125251242688014232.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1007297590.11125251242688014232.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A11F146.1060203@earthlink.net>

Wow, when was this?  I used them last about a 10 years ago and they had 
fantastic customer service.  Did they change hands?!

terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
>> I'm replacing my wood dash and the ammeter on my '69 TR6 came out more in
>> pieces than as a whole, is there a source for rebuilding gauges?
>> B  if not, has anyone used other gauges (VDO?) with success?
>>     
>
> I just retrofitted my TR3A to all Sunpro guages for the oil, temp, volt, and
> fuel.B  The fuel and temp required Sunpro sending units.B  Not a problem.B 
> All this for a fraction of the cost of rebuilding guages.B 
>
>
>
> Lastly, I will not refrain from my issue with Mo-Ma.B  They charged $700 to
> rebuild my guages, and sent me back a product that was probably fine inside
> (although the fuel guage stopped working and the speedometer reads bad), but
> they never bothered to even paint the needles that had turned ellow and were
> bent.B  I might have forgiven them if they hadn't held my guages for weeks
> beyond their estimate because they had, and I quote the essence of what they
> said,"better customers who used them more often."B  They meant concourse
> people who didn't drive their cars.
>
>
>
> When I say this, I always add that I rebuilt this car from the basic bolts up,
> and have nothing but awed praise for TRF, Moss, and Gilander.B  I'm not hard
> to please at all, but I'm not a foolB either.
>
>
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
> New Hampshire
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon May 18 17:43:15 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 16:43:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumph TransAmerica Stag - first day of on-road
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1887.1242689635.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1887.1242689635.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <61A6D80474294E4D8F31DF6CE61BBA18@Gateway1>

Tim,
I remember rebuilding many of PS pumps for my big old American cars... Don't
know if it's the same pump, but a quick check in my records shows:

Assembly

Note: All parts should be lightly lubricated with power steering fluid
during assembly.

1. Install the pump shaft oil seal using a 15/16 inch socket to drive it
into place. Lubricate the rubber lip with power steering fluid.
2. Lubricate the o-rings that go in the pump bore and install them.
3. Install the dowel pins.
4. Install the pump shaft.
*5. Install the pump ring. The arrow on the side should face the open end of
the pump bore and the smaller set of holes fit over the dowel pins.*
6. Install the pump vanes making sure the rounded edges face the pump ring.
7. Install the pressure plate making sure the spring groove is facing up.
8. Install the pressure plate spring.
9. Install the end plate. Force it down enough to install the retaining ring
and install the retaining ring.
10. Install the large o-ring around the pump body.
11. Install the stud and union seals. Make sure to match the old ones up
with the new ones since two different thickness' were used.
12. Place the reservoir in position and gently tap into place using the wood
block and hammer.
13. Install the flow control valve and spring.
14. Install the studs and union (make sure to replace the o-ring on the
union first!) and torque to 35 ft/lbs.

Hope this helps!

Brian
------------------------------

 
In a message dated 5/18/2009 2:32:48 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
thebujas at comcast.net writes:

We took  Uncle Jack out for a drive today.  Visit the TTA  website
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/
for a brief account of  the work we performed this weekend.

The TTA site also has a link to a  56 second YouTube video of the results of
all of our efforts.  You may  also view it directly from this  link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6b-eCEAbYnQ

We need help with  the power steering - we're not getting any power assist.
We rebuilt the  pump today and found nothing internally that was obviously
wrong.

If  you've rebuilt a Saginaw P/S pump, does the arrow on the outside of  the
eccentric casing go toward the rear (hose side) or the front (pulley  side)
of the pump housing?  Does the arrow correspond to the rotation  direction 
or
does it have some other meaning?  We installed the arrow  so that it was on
the rear of the pump casing.

Tim  Buja
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You  are subscribed as  chip19474 at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May 18 18:05:12 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 20:05:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pinion Seal R&R TR3/4
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905181610v46fe6fd9w1bfa24021eff4beb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7bb181af0905181610v46fe6fd9w1bfa24021eff4beb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <200905182005.13356.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 18 May 2009 07:10:20 pm Geo Hahn wrote:
> Am I correct in guessing that to remove the flange and get at the pinion
> seal I need only undo the rear end of the driveshaft, propping it up and
> out of my way?  (i.e the front driveshaft flange remains bolted to the
> gearbox output)
>
> Yes, I could just try it and see but if I have to completely remove the
> driveshaft I would prefer to do the front connection first before getting
> the car up and me under.  Thanks for any advice.
>
> Geo
George,

Yes that will work but it works better if you have a lift!

Lots of work if you are on your back and for us older folks it is not easy.

Remember to drain the differential first or you will get a nice stream of smelly 
hypoid oil all over your garage floor.

The large nut that holds the flange is a real bear to get loose. I had to have 
the wife stand on the breaks!

Bob

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon May 18 18:18:07 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 19:18:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
References: <1007297590.11125251242688014232.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4A11F146.1060203@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <FB54B21812BB45D186B18220E6CCA71E@yourpd3mh0abgs>

i have had good experiences with apt and palo duro on a variety of cars.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Burlein" <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
To: <terryrs at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)


> Wow, when was this?  I used them last about a 10 years ago and they had 
> fantastic customer service.  Did they change hands?!
>
> terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
>>> I'm replacing my wood dash and the ammeter on my '69 TR6 came out more 
>>> in
>>> pieces than as a whole, is there a source for rebuilding gauges?
>>> B  if not, has anyone used other gauges (VDO?) with success?
>>>
>>
>> I just retrofitted my TR3A to all Sunpro guages for the oil, temp, volt, 
>> and
>> fuel.B  The fuel and temp required Sunpro sending units.B  Not a 
>> problem.B All this for a fraction of the cost of rebuilding guages.B
>>
>>
>> Lastly, I will not refrain from my issue with Mo-Ma.B  They charged $700 
>> to
>> rebuild my guages, and sent me back a product that was probably fine 
>> inside
>> (although the fuel guage stopped working and the speedometer reads bad), 
>> but
>> they never bothered to even paint the needles that had turned ellow and 
>> were
>> bent.B  I might have forgiven them if they hadn't held my guages for 
>> weeks
>> beyond their estimate because they had, and I quote the essence of what 
>> they
>> said,"better customers who used them more often."B  They meant concourse
>> people who didn't drive their cars.
>>
>>
>>
>> When I say this, I always add that I rebuilt this car from the basic 
>> bolts up,
>> and have nothing but awed praise for TRF, Moss, and Gilander.B  I'm not 
>> hard
>> to please at all, but I'm not a foolB either.
>>
>>
>>
>> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>>
>> New Hampshire
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Mon May 18 18:18:36 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 17:18:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905181718360.22206@hymn12.u.washington.edu>

Oh yeah, I forgot that nickel is magnetic!  If the parts are triple-plated brass, that could explain all the observations as well.

   There is such a thing as chrome-plated stainless, by the way.  Google finds about 56,000 hits for that phrase.  Maybe it's shinier than raw stainless, or a slightly different hue?  Dunno.

   But, chrome-plated brass would appear to be the simpler explanation.
   Thanks everybody for your input.
-Nick


From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
>
>>    This is quickly becoming the majority opinion.  Even several people who
>> initially reported no magnetism tried it again with a bigger magnet and
>> found some slight attraction.  This says "stainless steel" to me...
>
>I really have no opinion here, as I've never owned a TR4.  But couldn't it
>
be the nickel in the "triple chrome" that is providing the attraction?

Chroming stainless just doesn't make a lot of sense to me.

-- Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon May 18 18:35:37 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 19:35:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] Anyone use or know of:  Evans NPG+   coolant?
References: <142d67f401bce5407f8a765c8e272379.squirrel@server6.glis.net>
	<D4071FA3B8F74EE88C173BD37C1CAE3D@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <E2ACA0236CBA4E6DB0B1D06FCBE016D7@yourpd3mh0abgs>

" The NPG is more viscous (so
doesn't flow as well unless you upgrade the pump), and has less heat 
capacity (so doesn't cool as well unless you upgrade the pump and 
radiator)."

uhhhh, no.
I run the stuff in several cars, including some with thermo-siphon systems. 
I use it in the diesel suburban that I use for towing, as well.
I found a drop in temp, generally.  (also you should be aware that running 
slightly warmer, say 200 to 210 increases efficiency of the engine.)
pure ordinary antifreeze (ethylene glycol) has a lower boiling point than 
the NPG (propylene glycol). generally, the ordinary anti freeze begins to 
breakdown 2300 - 2500F.  the npg is a zero pressure coolant, boiling at 
around 375 (at sea level pressure) and is stable at that temp.
if you want a thinner product they have npg-r which is about the viscosity 
of water. as I say, I have had no trouble with the standard npg.
and don't own stock.....

Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 4:33 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Anyone use or know of: Evans NPG+ coolant?


>> Does anyone on this list know of this product or have first hand
>> experience with it?
>
> The topic has come up from time to time over the years, we were just
> debating it the other day on the Stag list.  The NPG is more viscous (so
> doesn't flow as well unless you upgrade the pump), and has less heat
> capacity (so doesn't cool as well unless you upgrade the pump and 
> radiator).
> Yeah, it probably won't boil, but your engine WILL run hotter.
>
> BTW, you can do the same thing with pure ordinary antifreeze (even higher 
> BP
> than NPG).  I tried that on a TR3A, many years ago ... a year later the
> engine swallowed a valve and spit most of #3 cylinder out the tailpipe. 
> In
> that case, I believe extreme lean mixture at cruise was the cause of both
> the persistent overheating, and the valve stem eroding until it broke.
>
> Especially since I wound up spending my Christmas break lying in the snow
> repairing the damage, it's not an experience I care to repeat.
>
> As someone already mentioned, my first thought would be the voltage
> stabilizer, followed by the accuracy of the gauge.  But no matter what the
> problem, I would recommend finding and fixing it, rather than trying to 
> put
> a band-aid over it.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Mon May 18 19:17:22 2009
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 21:17:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr4 diffy seal
Message-ID: <cf2.56af15f4.374362a2@aol.com>


From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon May 18 21:24:07 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 20:24:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
In-Reply-To: <FB54B21812BB45D186B18220E6CCA71E@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <1007297590.11125251242688014232.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail
	.comcast.net>	<4A11F146.1060203@earthlink.net>
	<FB54B21812BB45D186B18220E6CCA71E@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <a06240800c637d5d002c7@[192.168.2.2]>

Try this website:  http://www.gaugeguys.com/Smiths/classic.htm

They have NEW classic Smiths gauges, for around $65.00 each.  In my 
TR3 I replaced my oil  pressure, and water temperature gauges, with a 
combo, and put a nice clock in the empty hole.  If you are not 
concours, why spend extra money for a rebuild??

terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
I'm replacing my wood dash and the ammeter on my '69 TR6 came out more in
pieces than as a whole, is there a source for rebuilding gauges?
B  if not, has anyone used other gauges (VDO?) with success?


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 18 21:53:26 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 20:53:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 windshield cap and cockpit trim
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905181718360.22206@hymn12.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <20090519035327107.DPII15274@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

>    There is such a thing as chrome-plated stainless, by the 
> way.  

Of course. I did not mean to suggest that it did not exist; only that it
seems unlikely to be found on an inexpensive sports car.  Especially a high
enough grade of stainless to be almost non-magnetic.

Randall

From mmoore8425 at aol.com  Mon May 18 22:36:26 2009
From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 21:36:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
In-Reply-To: <4A11F146.1060203@earthlink.net>
References: <1007297590.11125251242688014232.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<4A11F146.1060203@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <EE596C15-4EAF-47C1-85CF-1500DF137DBD@aol.com>

I have always been fond of Margaret since her Simi Valley days. She  
does do a lot of Pebble Beach cars .
Mike Moore


On May 18, 2009, at 4:37 PM, Joe Burlein wrote:

>> Lastly, I will not refrain from my issue with Mo-Ma.B  They charged  
>> $700 to
>> rebuild my guages, and sent me back a product that was probably  
>> fine inside
>> (although the fuel guage stopped working and the speedometer reads  
>> bad), but
>> they never bothered to even paint the needles that had turned ellow  
>> and were
>> bent.B  I might have forgiven them if they hadn't held my guages  
>> for weeks
>> beyond their estimate because they had, and I quote the essence of  
>> what they
>> said,"better customers who used them more often."B  They meant  
>> concourse
>> people who didn't drive their cars.

From llst at shaw.ca  Mon May 18 22:43:16 2009
From: llst at shaw.ca (LT)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 21:43:16 -0700
Subject: [TR]  Pinion Seal R&R TR3/4
Message-ID: <4A1238E4.7020200@shaw.ca>

Geo I did mine recently and pulled the driveshaft. Don't recall if it was necessary but I did regrease the ujoints at the same time.

I was able to undo the front one from underneath, a lot of effort but I did not feel like taking the tranny cover off.
Found the bolt holes on the flanges had enlarged so I used metric bolts to compensate for the wear.

Larry

/Am I correct in guessing that to remove the flange and get at the pinion
seal I need only undo the rear end of the driveshaft, propping it up and out
of my way?  (i.e the front driveshaft flange remains bolted to the gearbox
output)

Yes, I could just try it and see but if I have to completely remove the
driveshaft I would prefer to do the front connection first before getting
the car up and me under.  Thanks for any advice./

Geo

From llst at shaw.ca  Mon May 18 22:58:45 2009
From: llst at shaw.ca (LT)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 21:58:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor orientation
Message-ID: <4A123C85.1000804@shaw.ca>

Replaced the head gasket today and started reinstalling some of the 
other components.

Thanks Jim, Tony and Doug for your thoughts on the head gasket 
replacement. I wish I would have thought of retorqing the head before I 
decided to pull it.

Anyway, found that the distributor dropped onto the oil pump shaft slot 
in only one orientation. Looks like it should be able to mate up if it 
is rotated 180 however it does not.

The reason I ask is I appear to be 180 out when on TDC of the 
compression stroke.

I did disassemble the distributor to look at and lubricate the innards 
and am wondering if I put something back together 180 out.

Too tired to take it apart and check so has anyone run across this?

Larry

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 18 23:33:06 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 22:33:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor orientation
In-Reply-To: <4A123C85.1000804@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <20090519053306650.FCDB15274@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Anyway, found that the distributor dropped onto the oil pump 
> shaft slot in only one orientation. Looks like it should be 
> able to mate up if it is rotated 180 however it does not.

That's right, the blade is slightly off-center so it mates only one way.

> I did disassemble the distributor to look at and lubricate 
> the innards and am wondering if I put something back together 180 out.

Could be.  The hole through the dog & shaft is also supposed to be offset so
it only goes one way, but you wouldn't be the first to force it back
together wrong.

Or it might have been wrong when you took it apart.  The distributor dog
actually mates with a gear inside the pedestal; which can be meshed with the
camshaft wrong.

Randall

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 19 04:29:53 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 05:29:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
References: <1007297590.11125251242688014232.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><4A11F146.1060203@earthlink.net>
	<EE596C15-4EAF-47C1-85CF-1500DF137DBD@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005901c9d86e$2413cf50$3401000a@ranteer.local>

i found mo-ma too big for their britches as well.  they didn't even want to 
do my gages.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Moore" <mmoore8425 at aol.com>
To: "Joe Burlein" <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)


>I have always been fond of Margaret since her Simi Valley days. She  does 
>do a lot of Pebble Beach cars .
> Mike Moore
>
>
> On May 18, 2009, at 4:37 PM, Joe Burlein wrote:
>
>>> Lastly, I will not refrain from my issue with Mo-Ma.B  They charged 
>>> $700 to
>>> rebuild my guages, and sent me back a product that was probably  fine 
>>> inside
>>> (although the fuel guage stopped working and the speedometer reads 
>>> bad), but
>>> they never bothered to even paint the needles that had turned ellow  and 
>>> were
>>> bent.B  I might have forgiven them if they hadn't held my guages  for 
>>> weeks
>>> beyond their estimate because they had, and I quote the essence of  what 
>>> they
>>> said,"better customers who used them more often."B  They meant 
>>> concourse
>>> people who didn't drive their cars.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 19 05:07:07 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 06:07:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] sources for grommets and blank off plugs
References: <20090518152816.172AE187883@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <003b01c9d872$60dc9530$3401000a@ranteer.local>

www.britishwiring.com or www.vintageconnections.com

> Any one have a source for reasonably priced grommets and more importantly
> rubber blank off plugs.
> id like to buy one of those trays of multiple sizes, but i cant find any 
> at
> the usual reasonably priced stores, like harbor freight ETC thanks frank

From thebujas at comcast.net  Tue May 19 05:16:31 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 06:16:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph TransAmerica Stag - first day of on-road
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1972.1242729596.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIEEFPDGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

Brian Induni wrote:
> I remember rebuilding many of PS pumps for my big old American cars...
> Don't know if it's the same pump, but a quick check in my records shows:
<snip>

Thanks for the rebuild procedure.  We'll tear the pump down again and verify
step #5 with the Stag ROM.

Tim Buja

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Tue May 19 05:48:09 2009
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 07:48:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR] TR3 distributor orientation
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1972.1242729596.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1972.1242729596.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <798E5F1F-54A3-4A1A-A332-6DC107B6E727@mgcarclub.com>

If you took the cam off the dist. shaft, I think you can put it on  
180 degrees off. (I think I did it once)

Allen
>
> Anyway, found that the distributor dropped onto the oil pump shaft  
> slot
> in only one orientation. Looks like it should be able to mate up if it
> is rotated 180 however it does not.
>
> The reason I ask is I appear to be 180 out when on TDC of the
> compression stroke.
>
> I did disassemble the distributor to look at and lubricate the innards
> and am wondering if I put something back together 180 out.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue May 19 06:56:04 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:56:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)
In-Reply-To: <FB54B21812BB45D186B18220E6CCA71E@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <1007297590.11125251242688014232.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><4A11F146.1060203@earthlink.net>
	<FB54B21812BB45D186B18220E6CCA71E@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <E50FECB997D04063AF08060383F5DD02@BOBSNEWPC>

A lot can happen in 10 years with how a business is run.... if it's even
still in business!

I just had my Tach and Speedo rebuilt/calibrated by West Valley Auto
Electronics (818-758-9500) in Resada CA. Fair price, great communications,
quality work and a quick turnaround time of less then 2 weeks door to door. 

No matter who you select for the work, it's your responsibility to ask
what's included in the price and/or what you want them to do. There's a big
difference between getting your gauges recalibrated and having them brought
back to "like new" condition with new paint. West Valley cleaned and
recalibrated which is what I wanted. I don't even know if they repaint gauge
faces and bezels. If I had wanted that done, I would have asked and
established what the price included.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Burlein" <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
To: <terryrs at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 6:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Source for rebuilding gauges (TR6 ammeter)


> Wow, when was this?  I used them last about a 10 years ago and they had 
> fantastic customer service.  Did they change hands?!
>
> terryrs at comcast.net wrote:
>>> I'm replacing my wood dash and the ammeter on my '69 TR6 came out more 
>>> in
>>> pieces than as a whole, is there a source for rebuilding gauges?
>>> B  if not, has anyone used other gauges (VDO?) with success?
>>>
>>
>> I just retrofitted my TR3A to all Sunpro guages for the oil, temp, volt, 
>> and
>> fuel.B  The fuel and temp required Sunpro sending units.B  Not a 
>> problem.B All this for a fraction of the cost of rebuilding guages.B
>>
>>
>> Lastly, I will not refrain from my issue with Mo-Ma.B  They charged $700 
>> to
>> rebuild my guages, and sent me back a product that was probably fine 
>> inside
>> (although the fuel guage stopped working and the speedometer reads bad), 
>> but
>> they never bothered to even paint the needles that had turned ellow and 
>> were
>> bent.B  I might have forgiven them if they hadn't held my guages for 
>> weeks
>> beyond their estimate because they had, and I quote the essence of what 
>> they
>> said,"better customers who used them more often."B  They meant concourse
>> people who didn't drive their cars.
>>
>>
>>
>> When I say this, I always add that I rebuilt this car from the basic 
>> bolts up,
>> and have nothing but awed praise for TRF, Moss, and Gilander.B  I'm not 
>> hard
>> to please at all, but I'm not a foolB either.
>>
>>
>>
>> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>>
>> New Hampshire

From pryner at verizon.net  Tue May 19 07:51:19 2009
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 09:51:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] New spitfire owner in Ft Meyers needs assistance
In-Reply-To: <798E5F1F-54A3-4A1A-A332-6DC107B6E727@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.1972.1242729596.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<798E5F1F-54A3-4A1A-A332-6DC107B6E727@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <625CC32908A2493894F73C8C9DF95D7B@PetePC>

I just received a call from a fellow who recently purchased a spitfire.  He 
lives out west drove the car to Florida.  He is currently in the North Ft 
Meyers, FL area.  He has brake problems and is looking for a place to have 
it looked at and repaired.  I'm on the VTR road assistance list, but am 
located in the Tampa area.  Is there anyone in the Ft Meyers area who can 
recommend a shop for him?  Any help is appreciated.
Pete 

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue May 19 09:03:12 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 09:03:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Plug washer
Message-ID: <D9A32038-4A5A-4D27-A0AC-9360E0549E02@comcast.net>

List,

Is there a particular type of washer that is supposed to be between  
the oil pan and oil plug?  I have a magnetic plug but can't seem to  
get it to stop leaking.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue May 19 09:38:10 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 11:38:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Plug washer
In-Reply-To: <D9A32038-4A5A-4D27-A0AC-9360E0549E02@comcast.net>
References: <D9A32038-4A5A-4D27-A0AC-9360E0549E02@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <53CEA281-9EE3-4E18-B3DB-4BA2DBB328AA@comcast.net>

Just a copper washer as I recall. Compresses a bit I think. I would  
imagine any Auto-Zone type place would have them. Don't know if they  
still have copper, but I did find a 12 pcs. Oil Drain Plug Gasket  
Assortment, part number 66221 at Auto Zone.

Your your closing comment is priceless! :)

On May 19, 2009, at 11:03 AM, Bud Rolofson wrote:

> List,
>
> Is there a particular type of washer that is supposed to be between  
> the oil pan and oil plug?  I have a magnetic plug but can't seem to  
> get it to stop leaking.
>
>
> Bud Rolofson

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 19 09:48:38 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:48:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Plug washer
In-Reply-To: <D9A32038-4A5A-4D27-A0AC-9360E0549E02@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090519154837782.KZKZ13751@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Is there a particular type of washer that is supposed to be 
> between the oil pan and oil plug?  I have a magnetic plug but 
> can't seem to get it to stop leaking.

Those are supposed to be tapered pipe threads, so no washer nor a place to
put one.  If your magnetic plug has a head that is pulling up against the
surface of the pan, you likely have the wrong plug or the threads in the pan
are a bit oversize.

I buy socket-head (turn with a hex/Allen key) magnetic plugs from MMC.  With
a bit of Teflon pipe dope, they seal easy, and come out easy.
http://tinyurl.com/q4nmwt

Of course, being way down low like it is, the oil plug tends to have a drop
of oil on it even when the leak is somewhere else.  I'd also check the area
above the plug, to be certain it's not damp with oil running down.  A trick
I've heard of but not tried is to spray the area with white foot powder (the
stuff that goes on wet but dries instantly) to see where the leak is
actually coming from.

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Tue May 19 10:20:05 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 17:20:05 +0100
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Plug washer
References: <20090519154837782.KZKZ13751@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <3F630DD803D34D508B3B9DFBB272F814@John>

So that treatment would be to conclusively identify whether your Triumph has Athlete's Sump?

Jonmac

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Bud Rolofson'" <levilevi at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Oil Plug washer


>> Is there a particular type of washer that is supposed to be 
>> between the oil pan and oil plug?  I have a magnetic plug but 
>> can't seem to get it to stop leaking.
> 
> Those are supposed to be tapered pipe threads, so no washer nor a place to
> put one.  If your magnetic plug has a head that is pulling up against the
> surface of the pan, you likely have the wrong plug or the threads in the pan
> are a bit oversize.
> 
> I buy socket-head (turn with a hex/Allen key) magnetic plugs from MMC.  With
> a bit of Teflon pipe dope, they seal easy, and come out easy.
> http://tinyurl.com/q4nmwt
> 
> Of course, being way down low like it is, the oil plug tends to have a drop
> of oil on it even when the leak is somewhere else.  I'd also check the area
> above the plug, to be certain it's not damp with oil running down.  A trick
> I've heard of but not tried is to spray the area with white foot powder (the
> stuff that goes on wet but dries instantly) to see where the leak is
> actually coming from.
> 
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue May 19 10:45:41 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 12:45:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Plug washer
In-Reply-To: <20090519154837782.KZKZ13751@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090519154837782.KZKZ13751@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <54098C12-9388-4103-B570-8C5B6D56A623@comcast.net>

Interesting. I didn't even think about the possible difference between  
Bud's TR6 and my '3A. That said, I just took a look at mine and while  
the sump that's on the engine has a steel pipe threaded plug, it also  
has a copper washer (just as I remembered from my first '3A back in  
the 60's).

I have a spare sump, which I assumed was identical, but it has a brass  
(bronze?) plug with standard threads and no washer (though that could  
have been lost - no idea where the spare sump came from). There's more  
than enough room for a washer on either one.

On May 19, 2009, at 11:48 AM, Randall wrote:

>> Is there a particular type of washer that is supposed to be
>> between the oil pan and oil plug?  I have a magnetic plug but
>> can't seem to get it to stop leaking.
>
> Those are supposed to be tapered pipe threads, so no washer nor a  
> place to
> put one.  If your magnetic plug has a head that is pulling up  
> against the
> surface of the pan, you likely have the wrong plug or the threads in  
> the pan
> are a bit oversize.
>
> I buy socket-head (turn with a hex/Allen key) magnetic plugs from  
> MMC.  With
> a bit of Teflon pipe dope, they seal easy, and come out easy.
> http://tinyurl.com/q4nmwt
>
> Of course, being way down low like it is, the oil plug tends to have  
> a drop
> of oil on it even when the leak is somewhere else.  I'd also check  
> the area
> above the plug, to be certain it's not damp with oil running down.   
> A trick
> I've heard of but not tried is to spray the area with white foot  
> powder (the
> stuff that goes on wet but dries instantly) to see where the leak is
> actually coming from.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue May 19 10:50:56 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 12:50:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Plug washer
Message-ID: <d46.42cef601.37443d70@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/19/2009 10:03:49 AM Central Daylight Time, 
levilevi at comcast.net writes: 
> Is there a particular type of washer that is supposed to be between  
> the oil pan and oil plug?  I have a magnetic plug but can't seem to  
> get it to stop leaking.
> 
Bud, that is a tapered pipe thread.  It is supposed to seal by binding up 
the threads which will seal up against oil leakage.  Sometimes it actually 
works.

If you are having trouble getting it to seal you can really crank down on 
the plug and run the risk of breaking something or you can get some pipe 
dope.  Some have warned against using teflon tape dope as it can create threads 
that can clog up and block off oil passages so stick with the paste type and 
leave the leading two or three threads free of the dope.

Or park over some cardboard.

Dave

From mathews at uga.edu  Tue May 19 10:53:13 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 12:53:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
Message-ID: <4A12E3F9.4010806@uga.edu>

If you like cars, you will enjoy this...

http://www.billsretroworld.com/cars.htm

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 19 11:22:29 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 10:22:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Plug washer
In-Reply-To: <54098C12-9388-4103-B570-8C5B6D56A623@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090519172230239.VYGF15274@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Interesting. I didn't even think about the possible 
> difference between Bud's TR6 and my '3A. That said, I just 
> took a look at mine and while the sump that's on the engine 
> has a steel pipe threaded plug, it also has a copper washer 
> (just as I remembered from my first '3A back in the 60's).

TR2-TR3 did have a hex head plug with straight threads and a (fiber) washer;
but shortly before the introduction of the TR3A (engine 18902E) it was
changed to a square-head pipe plug without washer.  (The threads in the pan
changed as well.)  Since the head of the later plug was smaller than the
threads, there wasn't any place to add a washer.  Here's a photo from the
TR4 factory manual:
http://tinyurl.com/ove7o4

AFAIK, that remained the arrangement through the end of the TR6 run.  I only
have early TR6 factory documentation (that shows the same plug), but I don't
see any change mentioned in the Moss catalog or Haynes manual.

But of course that pipe plug is a common trouble spot; the small square head
frequently gets rounded off and so owners are likely to install alternate
plugs (as I do).  The magnetic plugs sold by Moss, TRF, et al have larger
hex heads (and were apparently stock on Stag gearbox drain plugs).

Randall

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Tue May 19 12:02:29 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 20:02:29 +0200
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
References: <4A12E3F9.4010806@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <97C086D8C79F4AB29ADC84728FBDFE0A@Study>

The American cars of the late fifties were IMHO among the most exuberant and 
exotic cars ever made. All those fins and mouth organ fronts, the 
unbelievable length of bonnet and boot (OK hood and trunk) used to have we 
Europeans who visited the USA in those days absolutely bemused.
I used to think the whole styling to be vulgar and tasteless and when I 
hired one from A or H I was horrified by the roadholding. On an English 
country lane you would have been seasick long before you would have hit a 
(Massey Ferguson) tractor. However they were'nt designed to be driven on 
English country lanes
With the passing of the years however I have realised how those cars 
encapsulated the mood of the USA. WW2 was over, the Korean war was over, 
America was above all supremely optimistic about the future. How better 
could the automobile manufacturers express the feeling of the nation at that 
time and I now regard those cars with nostalgia and affection.

YMMV

Flame suit ready,

Massey Ferguson=Triumph content.

David Brister
1967 TR4A 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 21456 of my spam emails to date.
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From pryner at verizon.net  Tue May 19 12:44:10 2009
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 14:44:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] New spitfire owner in Ft Meyers needs assistance - FOUND
Message-ID: <B359F5FB8BC74A8BA95E36ADC1CBF730@PetePC>

Thanks to all who quickly posted responses.  Dave sent an name of a local 
shop he is going to.  I have passed the other responses to him in case he 
needs more help.
Pete 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue May 19 15:41:29 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 17:41:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
Message-ID: <ce9.554dcbcf.37448189@aol.com>

Absolutely David......American 50's and '60's vehicles were all about style 
 and power.  September television shows were highly anticipated - not  for 
the show but for the introduction of "next year's models"!  Pretty  girls 
always highlighted the new low look or the windswept tail fins......no  worry 
about fuel mileage standards, quality control was just a glance, tailpipe  
emissons were off the map by today's specs, and safety - nah - with all that  
steel, who needs safety features!!  Funny, a TR3 still looks as small  
against an Escalade today as it did against my father's Buick Estate  
Wagon....ahhh, those were the years:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 5/19/2009 5:24:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes:

However  they were'nt designed to be driven on 
English country  lanes


**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
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Excfooter51609NO62)

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue May 19 16:15:15 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 18:15:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <ce9.554dcbcf.37448189@aol.com>
References: <ce9.554dcbcf.37448189@aol.com>
Message-ID: <21E3EBB3-C982-4FBF-A5B7-CFC25A299F57@comcast.net>

It's funny, but I never could get into those monsters of the 50's and  
60's. My first car, in 1967, was a '61 TR3A which, of course, would  
fit in the trunk of a domestic! Even now, I like them only for the  
nostalgia value... damn, they were big!!

Still, in 1960 when I was 13, I swore that when I was old enough to  
get a car, it was going to be a 1960 Impala, a red one. Never  
happened, but hey... I had my '3! :)

On May 19, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> Absolutely David......American 50's and '60's vehicles were all  
> about style
> and power.  September television shows were highly anticipated -  
> not  for
> the show but for the introduction of "next year's models"!  Pretty   
> girls
> always highlighted the new low look or the windswept tail  
> fins......no  worry
> about fuel mileage standards, quality control was just a glance,  
> tailpipe
> emissons were off the map by today's specs, and safety - nah - with  
> all that
> steel, who needs safety features!!  Funny, a TR3 still looks as small
> against an Escalade today as it did against my father's Buick Estate
> Wagon....ahhh, those were the years:)
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1976 TR6  CF57822U

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue May 19 17:58:16 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 19:58:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <21E3EBB3-C982-4FBF-A5B7-CFC25A299F57@comcast.net>
References: <ce9.554dcbcf.37448189@aol.com>
	<21E3EBB3-C982-4FBF-A5B7-CFC25A299F57@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FFF32F80C2544AA990C0377F739E6501@BOBSNEWPC>

Michael,
If you were 13 in 1960 then we were born the same year, 1947, and even
though I could identify every car on the road down to year, make and model,
I could never get into "American Muscle Cars" either. My sister was 4 years
older and had a '61 Impala convertible but my high school grades didn't
warrant me being allowed to get a car! She was the over-achiever in the
family. A lot of my friends had muscle cars so I had tons of shotgun seat
time in them. It wasn't until college that I finally got my very own first
car, a '61 Sprite, followed a year later by a '64 red Healey. The closest I
ever came to a muscle car was a '70 Camaro, 6 cyl 4 speed that my wife and I
bought after the Healey was sold and we got married. Ahhh.....the good old
days :-)

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Ferguson
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 6:15 PM
To: Chip19474 at aol.com
Cc: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] A blast from the past

It's funny, but I never could get into those monsters of the 50's and 60's.
My first car, in 1967, was a '61 TR3A which, of course, would fit in the
trunk of a domestic! Even now, I like them only for the nostalgia value...
damn, they were big!!

Still, in 1960 when I was 13, I swore that when I was old enough to get a
car, it was going to be a 1960 Impala, a red one. Never happened, but hey...
I had my '3! :)

On May 19, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> Absolutely David......American 50's and '60's vehicles were all about 
> style and power.  September television shows were highly anticipated - 
> not  for
> the show but for the introduction of "next year's models"!  Pretty   
> girls
> always highlighted the new low look or the windswept tail fins......no  
> worry about fuel mileage standards, quality control was just a glance, 
> tailpipe emissons were off the map by today's specs, and safety - nah 
> - with all that steel, who needs safety features!!  Funny, a TR3 still 
> looks as small against an Escalade today as it did against my father's 
> Buick Estate Wagon....ahhh, those were the years:)
>
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1976 TR6  CF57822U

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue May 19 18:14:46 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 20:14:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <FFF32F80C2544AA990C0377F739E6501@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <ce9.554dcbcf.37448189@aol.com>
	<21E3EBB3-C982-4FBF-A5B7-CFC25A299F57@comcast.net>
	<FFF32F80C2544AA990C0377F739E6501@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <A03F0231-FC8E-4C97-9D94-AC7F61FDB077@comcast.net>

Yup. '47 was a good year, I guess!

As for "...muscle car was a '70 Camaro, 6 cyl...", I think that may  
win the "Oxymoron of the Week" award. :)

As for identifying every car on the road, it was easy then! Now, they  
all look alike!

On May 19, 2009, at 7:58 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:

>
> Michael,
> If you were 13 in 1960 then we were born the same year, 1947, and even
> though I could identify every car on the road down to year, make and  
> model,
> I could never get into "American Muscle Cars" either. My sister was  
> 4 years
> older and had a '61 Impala convertible but my high school grades  
> didn't
> warrant me being allowed to get a car! She was the over-achiever in  
> the
> family. A lot of my friends had muscle cars so I had tons of shotgun  
> seat
> time in them. It wasn't until college that I finally got my very own  
> first
> car, a '61 Sprite, followed a year later by a '64 red Healey. The  
> closest I
> ever came to a muscle car was a '70 Camaro, 6 cyl 4 speed that my  
> wife and I
> bought after the Healey was sold and we got married. Ahhh.....the  
> good old
> days :-)
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Ferguson
> Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 6:15 PM
> To: Chip19474 at aol.com
> Cc: Triumph List
> Subject: Re: [TR] A blast from the past
>
> It's funny, but I never could get into those monsters of the 50's  
> and 60's.
> My first car, in 1967, was a '61 TR3A which, of course, would fit in  
> the
> trunk of a domestic! Even now, I like them only for the nostalgia  
> value...
> damn, they were big!!
>
> Still, in 1960 when I was 13, I swore that when I was old enough to  
> get a
> car, it was going to be a 1960 Impala, a red one. Never happened,  
> but hey...
> I had my '3! :)
>
> On May 19, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:
>
>> Absolutely David......American 50's and '60's vehicles were all about
>> style and power.  September television shows were highly  
>> anticipated -
>> not  for
>> the show but for the introduction of "next year's models"!  Pretty
>> girls
>> always highlighted the new low look or the windswept tail  
>> fins......no
>> worry about fuel mileage standards, quality control was just a  
>> glance,
>> tailpipe emissons were off the map by today's specs, and safety - nah
>> - with all that steel, who needs safety features!!  Funny, a TR3  
>> still
>> looks as small against an Escalade today as it did against my  
>> father's
>> Buick Estate Wagon....ahhh, those were the years:)
>>
>> Chip Krout
>> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
>> Skippack, PA
>> 1976 TR6  CF57822U

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue May 19 19:35:47 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 21:35:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
Message-ID: <bcd.50108021.3744b873@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/19/2009 7:58:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

If you  were 13 in 1960 then we were born the same year


I was 10 IN 1960.  By 1966 on my birthday I had a Ford Galixie 500 to  tool 
around town.  That was followed by a Dodge Coronet 383 with a Hurst 4  
speed which I dragged about town until I was arrested enough to dang near loose  
my license, lucky I was not killed for a few of my friends were. What 
followed  was a Dodge Barracuda, my first new car, married by then so dragging 
was not the  order of the day. Then in 1980 my first Triumph, a Spitfire  1500 
project from a junk yard and the rest may be history.
Darrell
 
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823248x1201398651/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
Excfooter51609NO62)

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Tue May 19 19:54:46 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 18:54:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <4A12E3F9.4010806@uga.edu>
References: <4A12E3F9.4010806@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <563881.26255.qm@web59714.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Doug,
Thanks for the look at those classic American cars....I think Winston
Churchill was asked what he thought of American culture, post WW2,  and he
remarked, "That would be a good idea" -- as though America has no culture. 
But we do!

I find these American cars from the 50s, 60s and earlier,
absolutely beautiful.  My 51' Chevy was a joy to drive....

Of course, most on
this List are bias -- We enjoy our TRs.
Pat


________________________________
From: Doug Mathews <mathews at uga.edu>
To: Triumph Mail List
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 9:53:13 AM
Subject: [TR]
A blast from the past

If you like cars, you will enjoy this...
http://www.billsretroworld.com/cars.htm
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www..team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue May 19 20:03:50 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 22:03:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <563881.26255.qm@web59714.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <4A12E3F9.4010806@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <4A132CC6.3886.165EA6A4@localhost>

On 19 May 2009 at 18:54, P Caffrey wrote:

> Of course, most on
> this List are bias -- We enjoy our TRs.

I absolutely loved driving my two Fiats.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tartanredmgb at gmail.com  Tue May 19 20:08:23 2009
From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 19:08:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] anyone near Cheyenne WY?
Message-ID: <b6464ee40905191908u1a7a6955jddf7fe771fe5fbfb@mail.gmail.com>

In my never ending search for an old Triumph, I've located one in Cheyenne.
Trouble is I'm a long ways from there.  Is there anyone on the list that
lives there, or knows of a British car shop or hobbyist in Cheyenne?
Thanks!

From jat1127 at hotmail.com  Tue May 19 20:35:37 2009
From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 22:35:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ebay TR4  ???
Message-ID: <BLU139-W217C811A9594DF0FD40F51B5580@phx.gbl>

Listers,



 Does anyone on the list know anything about  Ebay 280347856144? It is a white
TR4

CHEERS
John

John Taylor
Greenfield, Ma
Gloucester, Ma
USA.

* ALWAYS BE SAFE *

Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first.






_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 20 00:08:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 23:08:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ebay TR4  ???
In-Reply-To: <BLU139-W217C811A9594DF0FD40F51B5580@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090520060821267.TIQT15274@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

>  Does anyone on the list know anything about  Ebay 
> 280347856144? It is a white
> TR4

Well, I know it's not a TR4.  Looks like a reasonably clean TR4A but of
course there is no substitute for inspection in person.  Photos don't show
things like the piston & synchro rings being shot; brakes that only work on
3 wheels and so on.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed May 20 08:59:05 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 10:59:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] clutch input needed
Message-ID: <c1a.5ae9de6c.374574b9@aol.com>

I would like some input from the list on a clutch issue.  When my TR3A
runs at 170 - 185 degrees the clutch works fine.  When the temp goes to 185
-
190 from sitting in traffic the clutch does not fully disengage as
determined  by a stiffer shift in forward gears and a grind going into
reverse.  1500
 miles on new thrust washers and I have changed over to Dot5 fluid.  The
rubber part of the clutch line is changed to stainless.  Newly rebuilt
tranny with new synchros.  I have pulled the return spring from the slave  to
check for play and all seems to be in order there.  This seems odd that  it
is
temperature related.

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs
full line of laptops.
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434
3%3Bf)

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Wed May 20 09:25:51 2009
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 10:25:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tools
In-Reply-To: <8CBA4B6A9907CD8-15C-37B5@WEBMAIL-DY34.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090507135701.CFY55923@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><A456E24994E54EF08578F6D6AC66CB49@Meislaptop><7B920AD6ADE74F2B8AC332A1946F695C@BobPC>
	<921701585-1242474978-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-803688726-@bxe1061.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<8CBA4B6A9907CD8-15C-37B5@WEBMAIL-DY34.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT109-W44D776CB5A6F2A4B49B39ABA580@phx.gbl>

I believe the main manufacturing plant, along with the R&D and management are
up here in Canukia (Research in Motion who produce the BlackBerry being a
Canadian company and all), with additional assembly plants in Mexico and
Hungary. Of course like every other complex manufactured article, there are
component bits and pieces (chips, batteries, etc.) from all over the world in
there.


cheers

Scott

> Not trying to make any statements; rather, I'm curious. Where was your
BlackBerry made?
>
> --Andy Mace
>

_________________________________________________________________
Internet explorer 8 lets you browse the web faster.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9655582

From cofrog at q.com  Wed May 20 09:36:46 2009
From: cofrog at q.com (Dan Forgey)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 15:36:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] My Final Shot
Message-ID: <SNT105-W622A694740A7634BFBF469D4580@phx.gbl>

I ruined a 205-60-15 Hoosier Speedster last weekend.  The other three are
about half worn.   I went fishing (without bait) earlier this week to the list
hunting for a good used tire to replace the trashed one.



I have used all the suggestions I received to find one without success and am
trying this final time to see if I can score a good used speedster.  Or does
anyone need three of these (LOL).



Thanks,



Dan Forgey

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Wed May 20 09:49:40 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 09:49:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] anyone near Cheyenne WY?
In-Reply-To: <b6464ee40905191908u1a7a6955jddf7fe771fe5fbfb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <b6464ee40905191908u1a7a6955jddf7fe771fe5fbfb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A142694.2070605@tscusa.org>

Hi tartanredmbg dude,

I live in Colorado about 70 miles from Cheyenne.  Takes me about an 
hour.  So I could be convinced to take a drive in my Stag with the top 
down to go have a look.

There are other enthusiasts closer in Fort Collins - Norther British Car 
Club, maybe we could all make a Triumph convoy (Shawn and Paul interested?)

Let me know the details off list to stagbytriumph at tscusa.org

Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!



tartanredmgb at gmail.com wrote:
> In my never ending search for an old Triumph, I've located one in Cheyenne.
> Trouble is I'm a long ways from there.  Is there anyone on the list that
> lives there, or knows of a British car shop or hobbyist in Cheyenne?
> Thanks!

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed May 20 09:52:14 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 11:52:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
Message-ID: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>

Listers:
Attended my first British show of the season this past Sunday in Columbus,
Ohio and on the way back home (3 hour drive) I wondered what do you look
for  before your cast your vote in Participant Choice shows?  With a line of
say  a dozen TR6s, what determines your preference?

Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!  Being  a
confirmed Concours freak, I look for "correctness" and the last thing is the
owners name on the placard to refrain from "friends" voting.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD


**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs
full line of laptops.
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434
3%3Bf)

From trglory at verizon.net  Wed May 20 10:15:44 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 12:15:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5AB2C7BDD23F4FE2914277EFA4C79BFE@newbox>

Lou;

Participants' Choice shows are all about eye candy. Don't look for anything,
just vote for the one you like best. If you want "correctness" go to a
Concourse show.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 11:52 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] vote criterion

Listers:
Attended my first British show of the season this past Sunday in Columbus,
Ohio and on the way back home (3 hour drive) I wondered what do you look
for  before your cast your vote in Participant Choice shows?  With a line of
say  a dozen TR6s, what determines your preference?

Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!  Being  a
confirmed Concours freak, I look for "correctness" and the last thing is the
owners name on the placard to refrain from "friends" voting.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com  Wed May 20 10:31:50 2009
From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 09:31:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Woodland, CA British Car Show Pictures
Message-ID: <BLU147-W21FA9A1E99E2B3B0FB973FDD580@phx.gbl>

Hi All - As promised, I have posted pictures from the British Car Show at
Woodland, CA last Sunday.  They are at:



http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157618394336944/detail/



I don't mean to brag, but I have won 1st place (participant's choice) in both
the Chico and Woodland shows.  The class in the Chico show was TR2-4A, and the
class at the Woodland show was TR2-3B.



(Lou - Please note that the bonnet and boot are both up!!)



Woodland is about 1 1/2 - 2 hours from my home, and the temperature was
projected to exceed 105F.  Needless to say, I was a little worried about
overheating.  The trip down was wonderful.  I left at 6AM, and drove past rice
fields and orchards, and reveled in the coolness.  The temp gauge stayed right
at 185.  On the return trip, I left Woodland at about 3PM - the hottest part
of the day.  While I sweltered, the car performed wonderfully.  At speed,
about 60-65 MPH, the temp hovered a little over 185.  When I had to stop or
slow down in the small towns, it never went over about 207.  I was very
pleasantly surprised.



For those who are curious, I am completely stock.  I have a stock radiator and
a stock 4 bladed fan.  I use a 50/50 coolant mixture, and have never added any
additives.  When I first started redoing the car, I took the radiator into a
radiator shop, and had them clean it out.  I also flushed the engine as best I
could.  Maybe it is because of the narrow mouth on the TR2?



I just want to thank all of you for all of the help that you have given me.
While I am primarily a "lurker", I have a file drawer in my shop full of
printed e-mail responses to questions.  You guys are wonderful.



Enjoy the pictures.



BTW, I will be at the Triumphest/VTR in San Luis Obispo in October.



David Gunn

1954 TR2 Coupe (for now)

TS3388L

Chico, CA



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. goes with you.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_
Mobile1_052009

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 20 10:58:48 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 16:58:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Ebay TR4  ???
In-Reply-To: <1845992363.11827351242838533122.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1184849430.11829551242838728127.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I sent a note to the seller pointing out that the car was a TR4A.  His response, in its entirety:

"so what"

Guess we know how much he knows and cares about Triumphs.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: "john taylor" <jat1127 at hotmail.com>, "Triumphs at Autox.team.net daily digest" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 1:08:21 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Ebay TR4  ???
>
> >  Does anyone on the list know anything about  Ebay 
> > 280347856144? It is a white
> > TR4
> 
> Well, I know it's not a TR4.  Looks like a reasonably clean TR4A but
> of
> course there is no substitute for inspection in person.  Photos don't
> show
> things like the piston & synchro rings being shot; brakes that only
> work on
> 3 wheels and so on.
> 
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From trglory at verizon.net  Wed May 20 11:01:29 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 13:01:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Woodland, CA British Car Show Pictures
In-Reply-To: <BLU147-W21FA9A1E99E2B3B0FB973FDD580@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E6B733349D04428589033ECD17DE6159@newbox>

Dave;

I am an East Coaster but attended the Woodland show a few years ago while
visiting in the Sacramento area (it was in Dixon then but I'm guessing it
was the same one). I was very impressed by the organization of the show and
the quality of the cars participating. Congratulations on your win.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Gunn
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 12:32 PM
To: triumph list
Subject: [TR] Woodland, CA British Car Show Pictures

Hi All - As promised, I have posted pictures from the British Car Show at
Woodland, CA last Sunday.  They are at:



http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157618394336944/detail/


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 20 11:02:22 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 10:02:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D18EEF0B19A04775A243891508309387@jdnet.deere.com>

> Attended my first British show of the season this past Sunday in Columbus,
> Ohio and on the way back home (3 hour drive) I wondered what do you look
> for  before your cast your vote in Participant Choice shows?  With a line
> of
> say  a dozen TR6s, what determines your preference?

IMO, the whole idea of "Participant's Choice" awards is personal opinion of
the participants.  If you favor strict "by the book" originality, that's
just fine.  You vote your opinion, and I'll vote mine.

Consistent with my feeling that the proper way to enjoy these cars is to
drive them; I tend to favor cars that look "driven" rather than immaculate.
In general, I don't like "bling" (like badges), but I do like modifications
that improve functionality in modern traffic (in my opinion, of course).
For example, I consider the original tires to be totally inadequate for
modern traffic, so modern tires and/or wheels are a plus for me. Beyond
that, it's just things like which color combinations "work" for me.  I don't
like red and tend to favor blue or green (oddly enough, all my Triumphs are
either blue or green <G>).

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 20 11:16:27 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 10:16:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] clutch input needed
In-Reply-To: <c1a.5ae9de6c.374574b9@aol.com>
References: <c1a.5ae9de6c.374574b9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0FC21A6A03444142B3806E382C058656@jdnet.deere.com>

> When the temp goes to 185 -
> 190 from sitting in traffic the clutch does not fully disengage

David,

Does the engagement point of the pedal also go lower?  That is, when taking
off from a stop, is the pedal closer to the floor when the clutch engages?

Also, is that point really close to the floor?

If the answer to both is "no", I would look for a warped clutch disc or a
dragging pilot bearing, or missing alignment dowels.

-- Randall 

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed May 20 11:30:58 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 13:30:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] Woodland, CA British Car Show Pictures
Message-ID: <d62.35b7f5ae.37459852@aol.com>

I don't mean to brag, but I have won 1st place  (participant's choice) in
both
the Chico and Woodland shows.  The class  in the Chico show was TR2-4A, and
the
class at the Woodland show was  TR2-3B.



(Lou - Please note that the bonnet and boot are both  up!!)


David:
Tried to tell you several years ago when you started on the Long Door
project that your day would come!  Congratulations!  Knock 'em dead  at
Triumphest / VTR

Lou Metelko
Auburn,  Indiana













_________________________________________________________________

**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs
full line of laptops.
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434
3%3Bf)

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed May 20 11:35:06 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 10:35:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0EB84B80FB8D49C390C7C52E1638AD60@joepentiumnew>

Lou,
I always look at all the cars in the grouping and see which ones catch my
eye.  Then I go back over those cars more carefully to pick out the
particular one I like best.  No real criteria, just what appears most
m\pleasing to me.

I too do not vote for cars with bonnets closed, not because of concours
issues but because I know that is a sign they are hiding something.

JOe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 8:52 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] vote criterion

Listers:
Attended my first British show of the season this past Sunday in Columbus,
Ohio and on the way back home (3 hour drive) I wondered what do you look
for  before your cast your vote in Participant Choice shows?  With a line of
say  a dozen TR6s, what determines your preference?

Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!  Being  a
confirmed Concours freak, I look for "correctness" and the last thing is the
owners name on the placard to refrain from "friends" voting.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD

From lee at automate-it.com  Wed May 20 11:55:13 2009
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 12:55:13 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] photo from British Car Show, Woodland - great shot!
Message-ID: <1245.192.246.38.159.1242842113.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

What a great shot!

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/3541699048/in/set-72157618394336944/

thanks for the laugh...

From don at napanet.net  Wed May 20 12:40:18 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 11:40:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] photo from British Car Show, Woodland - great shot!
In-Reply-To: <1245.192.246.38.159.1242842113.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <1245.192.246.38.159.1242842113.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <1242844818.4a144e920e72b@webmail.napanet.net>

It's a ceramic dog!  So wasn't too difficult to catch in the act.




Quoting Lee Daniels <lee at automate-it.com>:

> What a great shot!
> 
>   http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/3541699048/in/set-72157618394336944/
> 
> thanks for the laugh...
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as don at napanet.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed May 20 12:17:04 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 14:17:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
Message-ID: <c2e.53d75134.3745a320@cs.com>

In a message dated 5/20/2009 10:52:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
Loumetelko at aol.com writes: 
> Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!  Being  a
> confirmed Concours freak, I look for "correctness" and the last thing is 
> the
> owners name on the placard to refrain from "friends" voting.
> 

I don't vote for cars which have closed bonnets, either.  If it ain't open 
there must be a reason.  In concours the thing that makes the difference 
between the winners and the runners-up is engine bay and undercarriage 
preparation.  I use the same criteria in Pop Choice.

And anything but an originality freak so I don't care for correctness but I 
do look for execution, finish and maintenance.  If someone has engineered 
his own "something" and done an admirable job of it, it will garner points 
with me.

I once schmoozed and lobbied and wound up winning a second place when I 
really deserved a third.  I felt remorse after that so I don't engage in that 
kind of activity anymore.  

Dave

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed May 20 12:33:10 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 11:33:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] rockland county
Message-ID: <649980.21301.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just wondering is there anyone in this group in the rockland co area ,amazing how there are no british cars in the area anymore

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Wed May 20 12:34:35 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 11:34:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1242842401.28739.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1242842401.28739.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <A6F2B55A0ACE46BFA5A5CABEEBD5194D@Gateway1>

Lou,

Yep, I agree. Bonnet must be open at least to even consider giving my vote.
I also like to see the boot open too, but not necessary. The thing that I
really like to see are pictures / write up about the car's history,
restoration, use, etc. Whenever I showed my 4A I had a photo album of the
before, during, and after restoration process, and a write up about how my
family helped me restore it and enjoys riding in it as often as possible.
This was always a conversion starter with viewers and I really enjoyed
talking about my TR!

Brian

------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 11:52:14 EDT
From: Loumetelko at aol.com
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Listers:
Attended my first British show of the season this past Sunday in Columbus,
Ohio and on the way back home (3 hour drive) I wondered what do you look
for  before your cast your vote in Participant Choice shows?  With a line of
say  a dozen TR6s, what determines your preference?

Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!  Being  a
confirmed Concours freak, I look for "correctness" and the last thing is the
owners name on the placard to refrain from "friends" voting.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 20 12:37:33 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 18:37:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Woodland, CA British Car Show Pictures
In-Reply-To: <d62.35b7f5ae.37459852@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1464095063.11884331242844653439.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> David:
> Tried to tell you several years ago when you started on the Long Door
> project that your day would come!  Congratulations!  Knock 'em dead 
> at
> Triumphest / VTR
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn,  Indiana

TR44SUE and I will be watching from our last-place in the Funcours. :-)

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 20 12:39:08 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 18:39:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] rockland county
In-Reply-To: <649980.21301.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1609370696.11885171242844748174.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Where the heck is Rockland County?

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "john doe" <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: "john doe" <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 1:33:10 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] rockland county
>
> just wondering is there anyone in this group in the rockland co area
> ,amazing how there are no british cars in the area anymore
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed May 20 12:41:03 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 11:41:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <0EB84B80FB8D49C390C7C52E1638AD60@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <20090520144103.4SPEZ.3019747.root@mp18>

> Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!

> I too do not vote for cars with bonnets closed, not because of concours
> issues but because I know that is a sign they are hiding something.

When I go to car shows (which are more general in nature than our marque-specific shows) I hate to see cars with the bonnet/hod open.  To me, the car is art, and while one engine looks pretty much the same as the next, the beauty is in the lines of the car - which are spoiled by open bonnets, boots, etc.

I will be happy to open any cover for anyone who wants to see what's underneath, but when I show my car, it's as nature and Karmann and Michelotti intended...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From jimbpps at cox.net  Wed May 20 12:44:37 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 11:44:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D793705125F847CA9AF28190FEE78306@JimofficePC>

My process on Participants Choice car shows is to do a walk through of each
class, then go back and go over the cars that caught my eye. I become more
critical at that point and I look to see if the owner actually cleaned and
prepared the car, after all this is a Car Show, so the cars should be
detailed,
cleaned and displayed so as to show case the car in its best light. There is
no
excuse for dirt and/or dust on the paint or chrome, smudges on the
windshield,
filthy carpets, messy/dirty boot or soil and dust anywhere on the car that
could
have easily been removed. I also eliminate any car that has the boot and/or
bonnet closed.

Just my two cents, polished and dusted!

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 8:52 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] vote criterion

Listers:
Attended my first British show of the season this past Sunday in Columbus,
Ohio
and on the way back home (3 hour drive) I wondered what do you look for
before
your cast your vote in Participant Choice shows?  With a line of say  a dozen
TR6s, what determines your preference?

Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!  Being  a
confirmed Concours freak, I look for "correctness" and the last thing is the
owners name on the placard to refrain from "friends" voting.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD


**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs
full line of laptops.
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434
3%3Bf)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed May 20 12:51:55 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 14:51:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] clutch input needed
Message-ID: <bbe.4bddedd3.3745ab4b@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/20/2009 1:22:28 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

"Does  the engagement point of the pedal also go lower?  That is, when
taking
off from a stop, is the pedal closer to the floor when the clutch  engages?

Also, is that point really close to the  floor?"


Actually the disengagement point seems to go closer to the floor (trying to
 push the pedal through the floor) but the engagement point does not seem
to be  closer to the floor coming back up.

"If the answer to both is "no", I would look for a warped  clutch disc or a
dragging pilot bearing, or missing alignment  dowels."

Alignment dowels are absolutely there.  I like the warped disc  theory.
Will it warp upon being overheated and then return to its original  shape
when
cool?  I did not replace the pressure plate or disc when I had  the
motor/tranny out as they looked to be serviceable for quite some time.

I put in a "modern" rear seal and the %^&*# thing is leaking so I am  going
to pull the tranny anyway.  I have gotten quite good at it over the  years!

Thanks





David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs
full line of laptops.
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434
3%3Bf)

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed May 20 13:13:12 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 19:13:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <20090520144103.4SPEZ.3019747.root@mp18>
Message-ID: <1557220410.11902801242846792221.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- fishplate at charter.net wrote:

> When I go to car shows (which are more general in nature than our
> marque-specific shows) I hate to see cars with the bonnet/hod open. 
> To me, the car is art, and while one engine looks pretty much the same
> as the next, the beauty is in the lines of the car - which are spoiled
> by open bonnets, boots, etc.

Oh, good.  It's not just me.

And not just because my engines are not cleaned with a toothbrush.  

The Seven is very tidy and attractive in the office, but when I show it, it will have the bonnet affixed so it looks like a complete car.  For another thing, the darn thing could blow away if not tied down somehow...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 20 13:27:53 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 15:27:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1999D1956533474CBE2B9E31979A604E@BOBSNEWPC>

Correctness is the last thing I look for at a "participant's show".  As far
as I'm concerned, that's reserved for the concours judged events. I too will
not vote for a car with the hood/bonnet closed. I tend to shy away from
trailer queens as our cars were meant to be driven and I don't see the point
of owning one to just admire it sitting in the garage.....unless it's a car
of historical significance......which are few and far between. 

I look for cars that the owner has taken great pride in doing quality work
on, be it maintaining originality or putting in some real cool
modifications. I had to laugh at one show where a guy with his voting pad
was checking the panel alignment on my car! I'm sure I didn't get his
vote......especially if he looked in my engine bay ;-)

I don't understand the "name on the placard" comment because whether my name
is there or not, all my Triumph friends know my car just like I'm sure your
friends know your car. And friend or not I expect them to vote for whatever
car they like best. That's the point of the show. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 11:52 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] vote criterion

Listers:
Attended my first British show of the season this past Sunday in Columbus,
Ohio and on the way back home (3 hour drive) I wondered what do you look for
before your cast your vote in Participant Choice shows?  With a line of say
a dozen TR6s, what determines your preference?

Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!  Being  a
confirmed Concours freak, I look for "correctness" and the last thing is the
owners name on the placard to refrain from "friends" voting.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
54 TR2LD

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed May 20 13:44:24 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 12:44:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <1999D1956533474CBE2B9E31979A604E@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
	<1999D1956533474CBE2B9E31979A604E@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <C9AF3B1A0F204C0F9DF76AB1B4618F50@joepentiumnew>

Bob,
The "Name On the Card"  thing is a good idea for bringing people together.
At events where people from wide areas accumulate, it is likely that people
who have never seen your car but recognize your name want to meet you to put
a face with your name.  

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 12:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] vote criterion

Correctness is the last thing I look for at a "participant's show".  As far
as I'm concerned, that's reserved for the concours judged events. I too will
not vote for a car with the hood/bonnet closed. I tend to shy away from
trailer queens as our cars were meant to be driven and I don't see the point
of owning one to just admire it sitting in the garage.....unless it's a car
of historical significance......which are few and far between. 

I look for cars that the owner has taken great pride in doing quality work
on, be it maintaining originality or putting in some real cool
modifications. I had to laugh at one show where a guy with his voting pad
was checking the panel alignment on my car! I'm sure I didn't get his
vote......especially if he looked in my engine bay ;-)

I don't understand the "name on the placard" comment because whether my name
is there or not, all my Triumph friends know my car just like I'm sure your
friends know your car. And friend or not I expect them to vote for whatever
car they like best. That's the point of the show. 

From allegrorover at mac.com  Wed May 20 14:16:47 2009
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 16:16:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Chromers in Penn
Message-ID: <9148A633-4516-4DA8-BA0C-66891381CAE5@mac.com>

List
Does anyone have the name and telephone number of the chrome shop in  
Pennsylvania that I have seen recommended on this list before???
I used to have it on my computer but that was a unit that died and I  
have lost the info.
TIA

Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From trglory at verizon.net  Wed May 20 14:32:38 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 16:32:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Chromers in Penn
In-Reply-To: <9148A633-4516-4DA8-BA0C-66891381CAE5@mac.com>
Message-ID: <DC757B49F67B40FA96712EFAB6009AB6@newbox>

Librandi's Plating, Middletown PA 717-944-9442
www.carchrome.com


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 4:17 PM
To: email list
Subject: [TR] Chromers in Penn

List
Does anyone have the name and telephone number of the chrome shop in  
Pennsylvania that I have seen recommended on this list before???
I used to have it on my computer but that was a unit that died and I  
have lost the info.
TIA

Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as trglory at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Wed May 20 14:49:34 2009
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 16:49:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] Woodland, CA British Car Show Pictures
Message-ID: <d20.50382345.3745c6de@aol.com>

David,
Great pictures and a nice car. The red wheels and hardtop give it a real
"vintage" look.
There's an interesting variety of LBCs that we don't often see in my  area.
Eric 71 TR6
**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs
full line of laptops.
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434
3%3Bf)

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Wed May 20 14:51:20 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 08:51:20 +1200
Subject: [TR] Old cars....
Message-ID: <CFE10858BD7A4CE68B204630368BFD0F@DRESANPC>

Hi...don't want to dwell on old cars, but down here in New Zealand things were
a bit different. I'm a '46er, and was always a petrolhead. Loved to look
through Popular Mechanic mags at the library, especially at the cars section.
My first car was a 1938 Vauxhall!! Progressed a bit since then, now have a '25
Chrysler Brougham, a '70 MGBGT, and nearly finished an '65 ex- Canadian 4A.
Have two "modern" Mitsi's as well. Could talk for hours, BUT......Best
Regards.....Trev. H...Feilding, New Zealand

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed May 20 14:55:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 13:55:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <1999D1956533474CBE2B9E31979A604E@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
	<1999D1956533474CBE2B9E31979A604E@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <A8298736D23843D58D20E36EAE0A2A3E@jdnet.deere.com>

> just like I'm sure your
> friends know your car.

I feel like I've got lots of friends on this list; but I wouldn't know their
cars nor, I suspect, would they know mine.  But I agree, I wouldn't use that
as a consideration for voting.

-- Randall 

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Wed May 20 14:59:56 2009
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 16:59:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
Message-ID: <c05.5fdf710e.3745c94c@aol.com>

Lou,

I know you've already gotten plenty of opinions on how to vote at PC shows.
 Someone else has already said "whatever catches your eye", which is how I
usually vote. Once I was at a show where there were only 2 cars of a
particular  Triumph model in the class. One was all shiny and better than new
looking. It  was really beautiful. The other was nice, but a little tired
looking. I asked  the older gentleman standing nearby if the second car was
his.
Yes, he replied.  He'd bought it new in the 1960s and it now had 65K miles on
it. That got my  vote. My son and I frequently like to vote for a car with
a good "story" behind  it.

Eric L.
71 TR6
**************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellbs
full line of laptops.
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http
:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434
3%3Bf)

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed May 20 15:07:32 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 14:07:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <A8298736D23843D58D20E36EAE0A2A3E@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
	<1999D1956533474CBE2B9E31979A604E@BOBSNEWPC>
	<A8298736D23843D58D20E36EAE0A2A3E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905201407t4b8d5897qd030f03fea191a95@mail.gmail.com>

My method is much simpler... I just hand the ballot to my wife.

Oh, she is real picky and wants to see under the bonnet too.  Likes to walk
every row twice before deciding.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed May 20 15:12:09 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 14:12:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Old cars....
In-Reply-To: <CFE10858BD7A4CE68B204630368BFD0F@DRESANPC>
References: <CFE10858BD7A4CE68B204630368BFD0F@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905201412y2e4a175ctf22c895dcb116fd7@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, May 20, 2009 at 1:51 PM, T S Hardy <t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz> wrote:

> ...Loved to look through Popular Mechanic mags at the library...


Those are the guys who promised we'd all have flying cars by the time I got
my license.  I'm still waiting.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed May 20 15:19:47 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 14:19:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Ebay TR4 ???
In-Reply-To: <1184849430.11829551242838728127.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1845992363.11827351242838533122.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<1184849430.11829551242838728127.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905201419lc8b2736i511d4cf628db507@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, May 20, 2009 at 9:58 AM, <pethier at comcast.net> wrote:

> "so what"
>
> Guess we know how much he knows and cares about Triumphs.


I believe I have seen other Triumphs move through this dealer.  He picks up
cars on eBay (in the examples I recall) that are not bidded up to their
potential then re-lists on eBay to sell higher.

Nothing wrong with that but not necessarily someone who knows and loves what
he is offerring.

Geo

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 20 15:40:19 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 17:40:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <C9AF3B1A0F204C0F9DF76AB1B4618F50@joepentiumnew>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
	<1999D1956533474CBE2B9E31979A604E@BOBSNEWPC>
	<C9AF3B1A0F204C0F9DF76AB1B4618F50@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <92BD07F0814A42E1B97644EFB0DCB37F@BOBSNEWPC>

Ohhh....OK.... We want the name on the card so people can get to know you.
Actually I've never been to a show that didn't have my name on the card. I
always look at names to try and find guys from the Mail Lists, 6-Pack and
BCF. I still nave my official Joe Curry Mail List window sticker!


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Curry [mailto:spitlist at cox.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 3:44 PM
To: 'Bob Danielson'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] vote criterion

Bob,
The "Name On the Card"  thing is a good idea for bringing people together.
At events where people from wide areas accumulate, it is likely that people
who have never seen your car but recognize your name want to meet you to put
a face with your name.  

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 12:28 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] vote criterion

Correctness is the last thing I look for at a "participant's show".  As far
as I'm concerned, that's reserved for the concours judged events. I too will
not vote for a car with the hood/bonnet closed. I tend to shy away from
trailer queens as our cars were meant to be driven and I don't see the point
of owning one to just admire it sitting in the garage.....unless it's a car
of historical significance......which are few and far between. 

I look for cars that the owner has taken great pride in doing quality work
on, be it maintaining originality or putting in some real cool
modifications. I had to laugh at one show where a guy with his voting pad
was checking the panel alignment on my car! I'm sure I didn't get his
vote......especially if he looked in my engine bay ;-)

I don't understand the "name on the placard" comment because whether my name
is there or not, all my Triumph friends know my car just like I'm sure your
friends know your car. And friend or not I expect them to vote for whatever
car they like best. That's the point of the show. 

From mdporter at dfn.com  Wed May 20 16:33:21 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 16:33:21 -0600
Subject: [TR] Old cars....
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905201412y2e4a175ctf22c895dcb116fd7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CFE10858BD7A4CE68B204630368BFD0F@DRESANPC>
	<7bb181af0905201412y2e4a175ctf22c895dcb116fd7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A148531.1010000@dfn.com>

Geo Hahn wrote:
> On Wed, May 20, 2009 at 1:51 PM, T S Hardy <t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz> wrote:
>
>   
>> ...Loved to look through Popular Mechanic mags at the library...
>>     
>
>
> Those are the guys who promised we'd all have flying cars by the time I got
> my license.  I'm still waiting.
>
>   

Yet another person who lives in a state without a drunk driving 
problem....  :)


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From lee at automate-it.com  Wed May 20 17:29:15 2009
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 18:29:15 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] photo from British Car Show, Woodland - great shot!
In-Reply-To: <1242844818.4a144e920e72b@webmail.napanet.net>
References: <1245.192.246.38.159.1242842113.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
	<1242844818.4a144e920e72b@webmail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <4363.74.95.210.211.1242862155.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

> It's a ceramic dog!  So wasn't too difficult to catch in the act.

Cool! If they don't eat too much, I'll have to see about getting one of those...


> Quoting Lee Daniels <lee at automate-it.com>:
>
>> What a great shot!
>>
>>   http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/3541699048/in/set-72157618394336944/
>>
>> thanks for the laugh...

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed May 20 21:55:41 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 23:55:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <5AB2C7BDD23F4FE2914277EFA4C79BFE@newbox>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A14987D.5726.1BEB697C@localhost>

On 20 May 2009 at 12:15, Joe Laurito wrote:

> Participants' Choice shows are all about eye candy. Don't look
> for anything, just vote for the one you like best. If you want
> "correctness" go to a Concourse show.

The few times I've ever been to a show and voted for a Participants' 
(or Peoples') Choice I preferred cars which looked driven.  If (for 
example) the exhaust header is still factory-fresh with no sign of 
ever having been heated beyond room temperature or if there is no 
road dirt anywhere under the bonnet, I figure it isn't be used as a 
Triumph should be used.  But that's just my opinion.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed May 20 22:01:00 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 00:01:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <0EB84B80FB8D49C390C7C52E1638AD60@joepentiumnew>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A1499BC.5992.1BF04AF0@localhost>

On 20 May 2009 at 10:35, Joe Curry wrote:

> I too do not vote for cars with bonnets closed, not because of concours
> issues but because I know that is a sign they are hiding something.

But surely, Joe, you must realize that a Spitfire or GT6 looks better 
with the bonnet closed, and that when it is open it hides dings, 
scratches, rust on the bonnet's leading edge or on the front bumper, 
and that no one can see the triumphs at autox.team.net badge on the 
grill, nor even the grill itself.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Wed May 20 22:40:18 2009
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 00:40:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
Message-ID: <d26.2fa7c488.37463532@aol.com>

I was not in America in the 1950's 60's or 70's. but I was in love with 
America. 
WW2 rationing continued for a little while into the 50's in England. And 
the 60's where still recovery years with union strife and a struggle to make 
ends meet. but a fine country.
The 50's in America especially seemed so wonderful, peace, great cars, 
every one was middle class, smiled a lot, and lived well.
Hollywood, hot rods, great big winged cars, drive in's all led to my 
addiction. Especially for a kid from the slums of Liverpool.
and after 15 years of trying I finally won my visa in a lottery.
Its not the 50's any more. I missed that, I got here too late. but I still 
found a great place in southern California, and my new country has been 
wonderfully kind, gracious and allowed me some limited prosperity.
you are a strange bunch at times, but so much like us English, that i cant 
help but love you all
Frank
**************Huge savings on HDTVs from Dell.com! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221836042x1201399880/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.ne
t%2Fclk%3B215073686%3B37034322%3Bb)

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed May 20 23:00:26 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 22:00:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <4A1499BC.5992.1BF04AF0@localhost>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com> <4A1499BC.5992.1BF04AF0@localhost>
Message-ID: <09B147A87BF745488BF37BBE8AF7B4A1@joepentiumnew>

Absolutely!  And I am sure that if asked, anyone would close the bonnet (as
I did on Tiny Tim at the Dallas VTR) when asked.

I has a bad experience at the Portland ABFM a few years back with a girl who
had a well finished Mk3 Spit.  It was beautiful inside and out but she
refused to open the bonnet.  Turns out that she had spend countless bucks on
the leather interior and paint & body work but neglected totally the engine
compartment.  She did NOT get my vote.

Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 9:01 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] vote criterion

On 20 May 2009 at 10:35, Joe Curry wrote:

> I too do not vote for cars with bonnets closed, not because of concours
> issues but because I know that is a sign they are hiding something.

But surely, Joe, you must realize that a Spitfire or GT6 looks better 
with the bonnet closed, and that when it is open it hides dings, 
scratches, rust on the bonnet's leading edge or on the front bumper, 
and that no one can see the triumphs at autox.team.net badge on the 
grill, nor even the grill itself.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu May 21 00:28:00 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 06:28:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] Woodland, CA British Car Show Pictures
In-Reply-To: <BLU147-W21FA9A1E99E2B3B0FB973FDD580@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU147-W21FA9A1E99E2B3B0FB973FDD580@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W28C4FE16B95934528C91C6E5590@phx.gbl>

Thanks for the photos.  If you recall what was the Lime green Sprite Bugeye
running for a power plant?

Best regards,
Tom





_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
l_WhatsNew1_052009

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu May 21 05:49:08 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 12:49:08 +0100
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
References: <d26.2fa7c488.37463532@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20CF4B6DB6DA4BFBAEE1035E53296AEE@John>

Frank wrote:
but I still
> found a great place in southern California, and my new country has been
> wonderfully kind, gracious and allowed me some limited prosperity.
> you are a strange bunch at times, but so much like us English, that i cant
> help but love you all

And for those listers who don't understand "us Brits" because we drive on the wrong side of the 
road, drink warm beer, talk with an oddball accent and (used to make) funny little cars, what Frank 
said of you is indeed a compliment. And it's one of the reasons why I'm so looking forward to 
traversing your continent later this summer in the Triumph Trans-AmeiCan Stag - US Embassy in London 
and my visa permitting :)

Jonmac 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu May 21 05:57:42 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 07:57:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <d26.2fa7c488.37463532@aol.com>
References: <d26.2fa7c488.37463532@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CBA8227B4E855C-1080-39F@WEBMAIL-DC04.sysops.aol.com>

I was not in America in the 1950's 60's or 70's. but I was in love with 
America. 
WW2 rationing continued for a little while into the 50's in England. And 
the 60's where still recovery years with union strife and a struggle to make 
ends meet. but a fine country.
The 50's in America especially seemed so wonderful, peace, great cars, 
every one was middle class, smiled a lot, and lived well.
Hollywood, hot rods, great big winged cars, drive in's all led to my 
addiction. Especially for a kid from the slums of Liverpool.
and after 15 years of trying I finally won my visa in a lottery.
Its not the 50's any more. I missed that, I got here too late. but I still 
found a great place in southern California, and my new country has been 
wonderfully kind, gracious and allowed me some limited prosperity.
you are a strange bunch at times, but so much like us English, that i cant 
help but love you all



 

Aw, shucks.? (blush)

I think a common language helps.? That and the historical ties and also the fact that Brits have been emigrating to the US pretty much ever since the revolution.? But when you consider that immigrants are a self-select group of motivated individuals this has been a good thing for the US.

Welcome and glad you like it here.

Dave


________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Thu May 21 08:41:28 2009
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 14:41:28 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Rockland County
Message-ID: <f833eb4716736.4a156818@optonline.net>

  For he who asked, Rockland County is is Southeastern NY, right on the border with New Jersey.  And if John Doe looks one county north (Orange County), he will find a thriving, 80-member British Car club called The Brits of the Hudson (see our website www.britsofthehudson.org). We often venture into Rockland County and points south and are the only multi-marque British club between Albany and NJ.
Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu May 21 09:22:46 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 15:22:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] spin on filter adaptor
Message-ID: <1702384406.12793441242919366176.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

hi guys,



a local guy made this video.B  if you have a adaptor, you may wish to check
it.B  and, btw , it is the manufacturer's problem not the supplier's whether
victoria british , moss, or any other. B B  the shop involved said they had no
idea who that manufacturer is and no idea how to contact him.B  perhaps our
friends at moss can check it out for us?B 

remember, you should check the piece after installation. that is YOUR
responsibility.

our club just had an engine failure due to this problem.


http :// www . youtube . com/watch? v=6ltnlg011Kk


best,

ray

B 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu May 21 09:26:11 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 08:26:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <20CF4B6DB6DA4BFBAEE1035E53296AEE@John>
References: <d26.2fa7c488.37463532@aol.com>
	<20CF4B6DB6DA4BFBAEE1035E53296AEE@John>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905210826racf0ecj8be4eabf57f44cbc@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 4:49 AM, John Macartney wrote:

> ...And for those listers who don't understand "us Brits"
>

I once heard story from a Brit visiting the US for the first time.  Arriving
at his hotel he discovered he had forgotten to bring toothpaste.  Went into
a drug store (chemist) and asked for a tube of it.  The one the clerk handed
him was marked 'Large'.

He said "Oh I'm only visiting here a short while, I just need a small tube".

The clerk said "That's it.  There's 'Large', 'Family' and 'Giant'.  Large is
the smallest we've got."

He said that phrase stuck with him as he travelled our country -- "Large is
the smallest we've got".

Certainly most of the US cars of the 50s were designed with that thought.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu May 21 09:44:18 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 11:44:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] the lists
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF6DBD5B1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <660688242-1242912433-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-126100276-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF6DBD5B1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <6B989D28973D4F73BA0A6A00D9BB6285@BOBSNEWPC>

Mark told us a couple of weeks ago that he was having trouble with his ISP
blocking mail as spam and he was moving to another ISP which would help.
Since the move I've seen an increase in mail but nothing to the point of
where it was 5 years ago. So......I bet Stan hit the nail on the head that
the TR6 gang is focusing on the 6-Pack Forum and all models may be over in
BCF. I know that I spend too much time in the 6-Pack Forum for the past two
years. The biggest advantage is the ability to post pictures to show a
problem or explain a fix. 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:46 AM
To: lfm614 at aol.com; John Summers; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] the lists

There are several reasons why we see replies but not the original, sometimes
because people respond out of band and sometimes because people copy one
list and the responder adds the 6-pack because they see that the topic would
be of interest or could use a wider discussion.

Re traffic, I think perhaps much of what we used to see where moved to the
6-pack forum which is very active and which doesn't have the size
restrictions and attachment limitations that the autox mailer imposes and
supports embedded images so all that is left here in ascii land is us
dinosaurs.

If you haven't done so already I would encourage folks to sign up.

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack//index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:25 AM
To: John Summers; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] the lists

No, I have noticed that too but thought it was me.

A lot of times I get a reply but never got the question so maybe there are
some technical issues.

Lou
------Original Message------
From: John Summers
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: May 21, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: [6pack] the lists

Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the Triumphs
list, or is traffic way down for the past few months?  Is it the economy, or
just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
John Summers'74 TR 6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu May 21 11:30:09 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:30:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Old cars....
In-Reply-To: <4A148531.1010000@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <824010763.12854511242927009317.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

hey, what happened to my saucer? i left it parked for 10 minutes in roswell,
and when i came back after shopping for another aluminum foil suit, it was
gone!?!?!?

the flying car guy has been investigated for fraud, sued and still is trying
to use the mockup to attract more money.B  bogus.

and can you imagine 5000 people - without guard rails - flying while
texting??B B B 

ray



----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
Cc: "TR List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 5:33:21 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Old cars....

Geo Hahn wrote:
> On Wed, May 20, 2009 at 1:51 PM, T S Hardy <t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz> wrote:
>
> B 
>> ...Loved to look through Popular Mechanic mags at the library...
>> B  B 
>
>
> Those are the guys who promised we'd all have flying cars by the time I got
> my license. B I'm still waiting.
>
> B 

Yet another person who lives in a state without a drunk driving
problem.... B :)


Cheers.

--


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
distance....
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu May 21 11:45:10 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:45:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <1557220410.11902801242846792221.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <308719771.12862191242927910829.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

so, if the car has an mg engine under the closed hood, it would OK?B 

displayed properly, the car should have the hood open, top up, boot open.
sometimes, the car is displayed with the top up, closed boot - which is opened
at the judges request.

what you describe is called a "shine and show".B  usually, this is a mixed
make and national origin type show.

best,

ray



----- Original Message -----
From: pethier at comcast.net
To: fishplate at charter.net
Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 2:13:12 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion

----- fishplate at charter.net wrote:

> When I go to car shows (which are more general in nature than our
> marque-specific shows) I hate to see cars with the bonnet/hod open.
> To me, the car is art, and while one engine looks pretty much the same
> as the next, the beauty is in the lines of the car - which are spoiled
> by open bonnets, boots, etc.

Oh, good. B It's not just me.

And not just because my engines are not cleaned with a toothbrush. B 

The Seven is very tidy and attractive in the office, but when I show it, it
will have the bonnet affixed so it looks like a complete car. B For another
thing, the darn thing could blow away if not tied down somehow...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L B  1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban B 1994 Miata C-package B 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums B  http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
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From carlsereda at aol.com  Thu May 21 12:01:32 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 11:01:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] eBay TR4A
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2373.1242906550.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <960FA5C6.5D7B.4E6C.8D51.0ED287EDA116@aol.com>

John,
I see remnants of passenger side front-end damage that's been repaired (see
hinge/fender well area inside engine bay. I see a rare 6-bladed metal
'tropical' radiator fan blade (installed backwards). I see new fuel pipe path,
a 'rubber instead of steel' distributor advance hose, the distributor is
installed one tooth off (rotated), 1 aftermarket horn, bonnet nose looks
turned down a bit (typical front end damage that's hard to cure), and possible
driver rear end damage repair (see where spare tire cover strap snap is on
left - compared to right, and trunk lid alignment.
Looks like car got a respray - everything else looks very original.
I'd say it looks like a good car, the nose being turned down the most
difficult item to fix (if it is not an optical illusion in the photo. And I
agree with Randall about checking out the mechanical issues.. 
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Does anyone on the list know anything about Ebay 280347856144? It is a white
TR4  CHEERS  John

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu May 21 15:13:39 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:13:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] eBay TR4A
References: <960FA5C6.5D7B.4E6C.8D51.0ED287EDA116@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7DF556BADCAD4E148D7FE0825C44D191@Edscomputer>

Carl,

Good observation. I saw the car last year. It's definitely had a bump to the 
front, although my recollection is that the left side inner shows the result 
more than the right. Perhaps that's why there's no photo of the l/f inner. 
Didn't look at the back of the car that closely. Once I'd seen the front 
inners, I lost interest. Not a bad car, but, if I ever pass that way again, 
I want an accident free example. I'd be glad to take a look again if anyone 
on the List is interested.

Ed Woods

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu May 21 15:30:12 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:30:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
Message-ID: <c0b.5a304c9c.374721e4@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/20/2009 11:52:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Loumetelko at aol.com writes:

Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!   Being  a
confirmed Concours freak, I look for  "correctness"


 
Hey Lou,
Me Too!  I would certainly vote for your car for I know how hard it is  to 
restore a TR2 to anything approaching correctness. I know how much you  love 
your Triumph and I know that you think trailers are for boats, therefore  
you drive your TR2 while maintaining it to exacting original standards.  Much 
easier IMHO to restore and maintain those "anything goes  modified 
Triumphs" with modern parts.  I like to reward an owners  accomplishments and 
correct and still driven is the top of the  mountain for me.  
 
That being said, I will vote for a modified car too if no "correct cars"  
are present and worthy.  OK I confess, I will vote for a friend, I will  vote 
for a well know driver Triumph,  I will vote for a well know Triumph  
owner, I will vote for a Trailer Queen if it is obviously well done, I will vote  
for a Triumph with a good story behind it, sometimes I even vote for the 
second  place car since I already know which one will win class and yes I will 
vote for  my own car. Point is it all depends and I have no pre-conceived 
notion that only  one Triumph type is worthy of recognition.
We are all Family, even though there may be different strokes for different 
 folks,
Darrell



**************Huge savings on HDTVs from Dell.com! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221836042x1201399880/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.ne
t%2Fclk%3B215073686%3B37034322%3Bb)

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Thu May 21 16:14:16 2009
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:14:16 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2271.1242851598.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>

I want to weigh in on this as well.  It drives me nuts to see a line of TRs with their hoods and trunks agape (and tops up if following TVR scoring rules).  Sr. Michelotti did not sit down and put pen to paper thinking "This open sportscar will look really terrific with the hood and trunk open."  IMHO, its like judging beauty pagent contestants based X-rays (or other medical examinations ....).

> When I go to car shows (which are more general in nature than our
> marque-specific shows) I hate to see cars with the bonnet/hod open. 
> To me, the car is art, and while one engine looks pretty much the same
> as the next, the beauty is in the lines of the car - which are spoiled
> by open bonnets, boots, etc.

Dean Mericas
1965 TR4 (hood and trunk down, as they should be)
1974 2000 GTV

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu May 21 16:41:33 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 23:41:33 +0100
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
References: <20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>
Message-ID: <ECA2A52EF8FA4C59B9EC0A27DD6345F2@John>

When I see a row of highly polished cars with the bonnets and trunk lids open, I usually walk the 
other way thinking about dead sharks. Seems to me that most of the people displaying their cars want 
you to think that "this is how it looked when it left the factory and haven't I done a good job?" 
Truth of the matter is that yes, they've done a brilliant job in titivating and polishing but the 
finished result is diametrically opposite to how the engine bay or boot actually looked when the car 
did leave the factory.
But you try and tell them otherwise.
Each to their own, of course - but why is it that everyone is striving to re-create 'the factory 
look' when that factory look had a perpetual sameness and ordinariness about it? IMHO .....

Jonmac 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu May 21 18:25:59 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 00:25:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Radiator Duct
In-Reply-To: <20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>
Message-ID: <1203113192.12538701242951959483.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

When I rebuilt the 3A, I thought to stay ahead of the game. I purchased a
fiberboard radiator duct from one of the big 3, but read on the List these
tended to disintegrate over time. So, I spray painted the thing several times
with rubberized undercoating hoping to forestall that event.B  Alas, it was
apparently inevitable.



Anyone have a longer term (read "forever") solution making this out of another
material?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From jimbpps at cox.net  Thu May 21 19:05:42 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 18:05:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Radiator Duct
In-Reply-To: <1203113192.12538701242951959483.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>
	<1203113192.12538701242951959483.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <96B27EC907134EF198BC171FEE99BA20@JimofficePC>

I made a custom radiator shroud for my TR250 out of black ABS plastic sheet. It
is available in 1/8 and 3/16 inch thicknesses. Really works great! I didn't have
a pattern so had to free hand it but I imagine you could use your fiber board
one as a pattern. 

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 5:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Radiator Duct

When I rebuilt the 3A, I thought to stay ahead of the game. I purchased a
fiberboard radiator duct from one of the big 3, but read on the List these
tended to disintegrate over time. So, I spray painted the thing several times
with rubberized undercoating hoping to forestall that event.B  Alas, it was
apparently inevitable.



Anyone have a longer term (read "forever") solution making this out of another
material?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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From tr3a at comcast.net  Thu May 21 20:06:54 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:06:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Radiator Duct
In-Reply-To: <96B27EC907134EF198BC171FEE99BA20@JimofficePC>
References: <20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>
	<1203113192.12538701242951959483.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<96B27EC907134EF198BC171FEE99BA20@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <6C7E12E3-E37D-4BC1-B302-ACEFECC7DDEC@comcast.net>

I made one from a sheet of aluminum. That was before I had a bending  
brake so it's not very pretty. I knew I was about to start my  
restoration so I really didn't care what it looked like. Didn't even  
paint it. It worked well though. When my car starts to come together  
again (in the event that ever happens), I plan to fabricate a better  
one. Aluminum again I guess, or maybe steel. When you bend either,  
they stay bent. I've never worked with ABS.


On May 21, 2009, at 9:05 PM, Jim Bauder wrote:

> I made a custom radiator shroud for my TR250 out of black ABS  
> plastic sheet. It
> is available in 1/8 and 3/16 inch thicknesses. Really works great! I  
> didn't have
> a pattern so had to free hand it but I imagine you could use your  
> fiber board
> one as a pattern.
>
> Jim
> Jim Bauder
> 480-309-9525
> '68 TR250 CD47L
> Scottsdale, AZ
> http://www.triumphowners.com/647
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
> ]
> On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
> Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 5:26 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Radiator Duct
>
> When I rebuilt the 3A, I thought to stay ahead of the game. I  
> purchased a
> fiberboard radiator duct from one of the big 3, but read on the List  
> these
> tended to disintegrate over time. So, I spray painted the thing  
> several times
> with rubberized undercoating hoping to forestall that event.B  Alas,  
> it was
> apparently inevitable.
>
> Anyone have a longer term (read "forever") solution making this out  
> of another
> material?
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
> New Hampshire

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Thu May 21 20:07:43 2009
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:07:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <ECA2A52EF8FA4C59B9EC0A27DD6345F2@John>
References: <20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>
	<ECA2A52EF8FA4C59B9EC0A27DD6345F2@John>
Message-ID: <BA7F9328B8C24385A87BE1F19EDBBEF3@bboffice>

John,
The same reasons we all search out and buy the cars of our youth, whether we
owned them or only dreamed of them.  If by some stretch of the imagination
we can, by restoring these cars back to their original factory appearance
(inside and out), we can vicariously be restored to our original and rugged
good looks.   I fully appreciate your position in that you lived with these
cars for much of your life and we just got them as beaters in out youth but
they were great beaters.  I hope you realize the envious position that you
are in having had full access as you did, for me this would been my
kid-in-the-candy-factory times two dream!

When I am driving my sidescreen, I am twenty again and life is good... You
can't do that with the bonnet & boot lid up in the air (although I did have
the bonnet come fully open on a friend's MGA at full speed on I-95 one
evening!)

My vote: Keep 'em closed and let's DRIVE!!

All the best,
B

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 4:42 PM
To: dmericas at austin.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion

When I see a row of highly polished cars with the bonnets and trunk lids
open, I usually walk the other way thinking about dead sharks. Seems to me
that most of the people displaying their cars want you to think that "this
is how it looked when it left the factory and haven't I done a good job?" 
Truth of the matter is that yes, they've done a brilliant job in titivating
and polishing but the finished result is diametrically opposite to how the
engine bay or boot actually looked when the car did leave the factory.
But you try and tell them otherwise.
Each to their own, of course - but why is it that everyone is striving to
re-create 'the factory look' when that factory look had a perpetual sameness
and ordinariness about it? IMHO .....

Jonmac
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May 21 20:09:09 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:09:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
Message-ID: <c2f.553421bb.37476345@aol.com>

On that note, I join a group each Sunday for coffee and to chat about  
cars.  Some are British, some are American, and once in a while an Italian  or 
Japanese.  I get such a laugh parking my 1960 TR3A next to my friend  Bill's 
1959 Cadillac convertible.  The brightwork on this car weighs as  much as my 
car!  What a monster!  I was around in 1959 and this car  just did not seem 
big then.
 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Huge savings on HDTVs from Dell.com! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221836042x1201399880/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.ne
t%2Fclk%3B215073686%3B37034322%3Bb)

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu May 21 20:15:58 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 21:15:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
References: <d26.2fa7c488.37463532@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200905212117873.SM03724@HomeOffLMMarr2>

As another English ex-pat, I second all that Frank says.  I arrived at the 
age of 23 in 1973 so have lived here for way more than half my life.  I love 
it.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <FGFO1 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 11:40 PM
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past


>I was not in America in the 1950's 60's or 70's. but I was in love with
> America.
> WW2 rationing continued for a little while into the 50's in England. And
> the 60's where still recovery years with union strife and a struggle to 
> make
> ends meet. but a fine country.
> The 50's in America especially seemed so wonderful, peace, great cars,
> every one was middle class, smiled a lot, and lived well.
> Hollywood, hot rods, great big winged cars, drive in's all led to my
> addiction. Especially for a kid from the slums of Liverpool.
> and after 15 years of trying I finally won my visa in a lottery.
> Its not the 50's any more. I missed that, I got here too late. but I still
> found a great place in southern California, and my new country has been
> wonderfully kind, gracious and allowed me some limited prosperity.
> you are a strange bunch at times, but so much like us English, that i cant
> help but love you all
> Frank

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Thu May 21 21:06:21 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:06:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] A blast from the past
In-Reply-To: <200905212117873.SM03724@HomeOffLMMarr2>
References: <d26.2fa7c488.37463532@aol.com>
	<200905212117873.SM03724@HomeOffLMMarr2>
Message-ID: <239374.10053.qm@web59715.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

As a native Californian, I was raised and exposed to the 50s and 60s American
cars as a teenager in the 1970s.  Went away to college and found that
some kids had TRs, mostly TR4s, and an engineering major had a 250 (don't know
if that means anything).  I absolutely fell for those cars.  Got home, sold my
51' Chevy for about $600 and bought a TR4A for about $1,100.  I never
regretted selling the Chevy, though it was a good car, but can't part with the
TR.
Pat




________________________________
From: Michael Marr
<mmarr at notwires.com>
To: FGFO1 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Thursday, May 21, 2009 7:15:58 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] A blast from the past

As
another English ex-pat, I second all that Frank says.  I arrived at the age of
23 in 1973 so have lived here for way more than half my life.  I love it.
Mike

----- Original Message ----- From: <FGFO1 at aol.com>
To:
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 11:40 PM
Subject: [TR]
A blast from the past


> I was not in America in the 1950's 60's or 70's. but
I was in love with
> America.
> WW2 rationing continued for a little while
into the 50's in England. And
> the 60's where still recovery years with union
strife and a struggle to make
> ends meet. but a fine country.
> The 50's in
America especially seemed so wonderful, peace, great cars,
> every one was
middle class, smiled a lot, and lived well.
> Hollywood, hot rods, great big
winged cars, drive in's all led to my
> addiction. Especially for a kid from
the slums of Liverpool.
> and after 15 years of trying I finally won my visa
in a lottery.
> Its not the 50's any more. I missed that, I got here too late.
but I still
> found a great place in southern California, and my new country
has been
> wonderfully kind, gracious and allowed me some limited prosperity.
> you are a strange bunch at times, but so much like us English, that i cant
>
help but love you all
> Frank
This list supported in part
by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as
pcaffrey at ymail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Thu May 21 21:13:49 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 23:13:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] spin on filter adaptor
References: <1702384406.12793441242919366176.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FC91A5E14FCB4DA99D1EB7E11FE06C1F@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Ray,
The correct link for this interesting video is:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ltnlg011Kk



From: <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 11:22 AM
Subject: [TR] spin on filter adaptor


> hi guys,
>
>
>
> a local guy made this video.B  if you have a adaptor, you may wish to 
> check
> it.B  and, btw , it is the manufacturer's problem not the supplier's 
> whether
> victoria british , moss, or any other. B B  the shop involved said they 
> had no
> idea who that manufacturer is and no idea how to contact him.B  perhaps 
> our
> friends at moss can check it out for us?B
>
> remember, you should check the piece after installation. that is YOUR
> responsibility.
>
> our club just had an engine failure due to this problem.
>
>
> http :// www . youtube . com/watch? v=6ltnlg011Kk
>
>
> best,
>
> ray
>
> B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu May 21 22:10:44 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 04:10:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] spin on filter adaptor
In-Reply-To: <1258321450.12531201242965290128.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <469237144.12532231242965444264.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I remember some alloy wheels like that.  To solve the problem, people put epoxy paint on the insides of the wheels before mounting tires.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net> wrote:

> From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
> To: spook01 at comcast.net, "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 10:13:49 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] spin on filter adaptor
>
> Ray,
> The correct link for this interesting video is:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ltnlg011Kk
> 
> 
> 
> From: <spook01 at comcast.net>
> To: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 11:22 AM
> Subject: [TR] spin on filter adaptor
> 
> 
> > hi guys,
> >
> >
> >
> > a local guy made this video.B  if you have a adaptor, you may wish
> to 
> > check
> > it.B  and, btw , it is the manufacturer's problem not the supplier's
> 
> > whether
> > victoria british , moss, or any other. B B  the shop involved said
> they 
> > had no
> > idea who that manufacturer is and no idea how to contact him.B 
> perhaps 
> > our
> > friends at moss can check it out for us?B
> >
> > remember, you should check the piece after installation. that is
> YOUR
> > responsibility.
> >
> > our club just had an engine failure due to this problem.
> >
> >
> > http :// www . youtube . com/watch? v=6ltnlg011Kk
> >
> >
> > best,
> >
> > ray
> >
> > B
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> > http://www.vtr.org
> >
> >
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> >
> > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Thu May 21 23:17:24 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 22:17:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR] TR3 distributor orientation
In-Reply-To: <798E5F1F-54A3-4A1A-A332-6DC107B6E727@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.1972.1242729596.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<798E5F1F-54A3-4A1A-A332-6DC107B6E727@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <4A163564.1070807@comcast.net>

I also put the cam back in the distributor with the rotor slot 180
degrees out. It only took a couple of minutes to pull the breaker plate
and flip it around the other way.

Mike

Allen Hess wrote:
> If you took the cam off the dist. shaft, I think you can put it on 180
> degrees off. (I think I did it once)
>
> Allen
>>
>> Anyway, found that the distributor dropped onto the oil pump shaft slot
>> in only one orientation. Looks like it should be able to mate up if it
>> is rotated 180 however it does not.
>>
>> The reason I ask is I appear to be 180 out when on TDC of the
>> compression stroke.
>>
>> I did disassemble the distributor to look at and lubricate the innards
>> and am wondering if I put something back together 180 out.

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Thu May 21 23:52:52 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 17:52:52 +1200
Subject: [TR] Wheels and Brakes.....
Message-ID: <B0E4E08ECD0140AB8461DE3E7A01B6BA@DRESANPC>

Hi Listers...
            With the finish of the restoration of my 4A, I'm looking at
different wheels, and am rapidly settling on alloys. In the Newsletter #242
was a link to a U-Tube article about the rescue of a TR6 that had drifted off
the road and was being rescued by a tow truck. Does anybldy know the owner of
the car please? It was sitting on a set of rather appealing wheels.  I'd like
to know more about them.
               Re the brakes.....I've got a booster to fit. Here's the
problem, as I see it. There is only one vacuum take-off from the manifold, and
that of course is taken by the breather. Any suggestions as to what I
could/should do please?
        Thanks in anticipation.....Trev. Hardy...Feilding; New Zealand;
                65 TR4A

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 22 00:56:40 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 23:56:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wheels and Brakes.....
In-Reply-To: <B0E4E08ECD0140AB8461DE3E7A01B6BA@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <20090522065640761.CYPC28835@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Here's the problem, as I see it. There is only one vacuum 
> take-off from the manifold, and that of course is taken by 
> the breather. Any suggestions as to what I could/should do please?

The manifold is relatively soft aluminum, so easy to drill and tap for
another fitting.  I've added several ports to my TR3A.

Randall

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Fri May 22 07:12:10 2009
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 09:12:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Radiator Duct
In-Reply-To: <1203113192.12538701242951959483.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>
	<1203113192.12538701242951959483.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <COL119-W46DFD65AD844344A05434BA5560@phx.gbl>

> Anyone have a longer term (read "forever") solution making this out of
another
> material?


I made one for the TR3 racecar from 2024-T3 aircraft aluminum alloy. It came
from Charlie Vogelsong at Dillsburg Aeroplane Works.

I laid the old shroud on the sheet and traced around it with a Sharpie, then
cut it out using a nibbler and aviation snips. I actually made it in three
pieces, held together with small bolts/fiber lock nuts.

After lots of filing, trial fitting, and bending, it came out beautifully. I
painted the front body color, but polished the back.



John H.

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri May 22 07:31:27 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:31:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Wheels and Brakes.....
In-Reply-To: <B0E4E08ECD0140AB8461DE3E7A01B6BA@DRESANPC>
References: <B0E4E08ECD0140AB8461DE3E7A01B6BA@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W1A4701E64541A975E0735E1560@phx.gbl>

Trev,



For those that are not on the digest, could you post the link?

I just looked at the archive and did not see a way to identify which posts
were in a digest mailing.


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 17:52:52 +1200
> From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Wheels and Brakes.....
>
> Hi Listers...
> With the finish of the restoration of my 4A, I'm looking at
> different wheels, and am rapidly settling on alloys. In the Newsletter #242
> was a link to a U-Tube article about the rescue of a TR6 that had drifted
off
> the road and was being rescued by a tow truck. Does anybldy know the owner
of
> the car please? It was sitting on a set of rather appealing wheels. I'd
like
> to know more about them.
> Re the brakes.....I've got a booster to fit. Here's the
> problem, as I see it. There is only one vacuum take-off from the manifold,
and
> that of course is taken by the breather. Any suggestions as to what I
> could/should do please?
> Thanks in anticipation.....Trev. Hardy...Feilding; New Zealand;
> 65 TR4A
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri May 22 08:24:08 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 15:24:08 +0100
Subject: [TR] Tangibly Triumph query
Message-ID: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>

Hi, Everyone

The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On 
arrival in Florida in late June, I plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go' cellphone - something cheap and 
cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in buying one from an ISP with the best 
possible coverage of the US and Canada. From my studies on the 'net of T-Mobile, Verizon and I think 
O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP offering better coverage than 
Verizon. Additionally, I'd be interested to know if any ISP retailers offer external antennas for 
cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc) still have many weak signal areas 
where the phone antenna itself won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless its hooked up to an 
external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking of the long stretches of road in 
rural areas and in the more mountainous areas - especially the Rockies. Thanks in advance - an 
enquiring mind needs to know.

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 22 08:37:22 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 07:37:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <c0b.5a304c9c.374721e4@aol.com>
References: <c0b.5a304c9c.374721e4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905220737u1888fb39m394f64138fbc61cb@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 2:30 PM, <TR250Driver at aol.com> wrote:

> ...OK I confess...


I guess I too have a bias -- at out local annual event that draws cars from
around the Southwest I do favor out-of-towners.  I just have to give an edge
to the guy who drove 300 miles to be at the show over the guy who drove 30
blocks.

At the event in Las Cruces NM a couple of years ago there were a group of
TRs that had been driven from Vancouver and were taking a year-long sojourn
to scenery and shows around the West.  Had started the previous Fall, stored
the cars and flew home in the mid-winter and flew back (with their wives
this time) to complete the loop and drive home to Canada.  Guys like that
will always get my vote.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 22 08:46:24 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 07:46:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>
References: <mailman.2271.1242851598.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<20090521221417.83KA5.178342.root@hrndva-web01-z02>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905220746h15229373s81ed90e0407fe14c@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 3:14 PM, <dmericas at austin.rr.com> wrote:
>... (and tops up if following TVR scoring rules).

Me too.  That's why years ago I decided to just take whatever points
deduction they hand out for not having the top erected on a beautiful sunny
day.

Plus, it seems the rally or fun-run usually follows immediately after the
show and no one puts the top down on a TR4 in anything close to 'immediate'.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 22 08:54:52 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 07:54:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wheels and Brakes.....
In-Reply-To: <20090522065640761.CYPC28835@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <B0E4E08ECD0140AB8461DE3E7A01B6BA@DRESANPC>
	<20090522065640761.CYPC28835@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905220754y72828a10qaefe5ad01778cb82@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 11:56 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> The manifold is relatively soft aluminum, so easy to drill and tap for
> another fitting.  I've added several ports to my TR3A.
>

And on the 4A I think there may be an angled boss on the manifold that I
have often seen used as the logical location for tapping in.  It's certainly
there and unused on a TR4 manifold.

Geo

From allegrorover at mac.com  Fri May 22 09:33:19 2009
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 11:33:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tangibly Triumph query
In-Reply-To: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
Message-ID: <4A0D67E5-1ACF-455A-BDBB-9265B9CCFBEE@mac.com>

Hi John,
Not sure if this will help but in my travels across the US in a RV, I  
have found that Verizon has never let me down, unless I am obviously  
in a canyon or completely surrounded by mountains, and then only if  
you have a sat phone would you get out of those areas.
I am not pushing Verizon, but we also use their wireless card for  
internet and that has been very reliable as well.
I don't know what options they have for pay as you go phone, but I  
would certainly ask about their service.
I have to go to their store today and I am willing to make some  
inquiries if you like.
I am in SE Georgia and we are looking forward to meeting you in  
Florida on your kick off.
Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri May 22 09:38:05 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 15:38:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905220746h15229373s81ed90e0407fe14c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2111252228.12644351243006685229.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:

> no one puts the top down on a TR4 in anything close to
> 'immediate'.

Bingo.

I could put the top down on the Miata, get the top/doors off the Seven and stowed, open the windows/moonroof on the Saturn AND open the windows on the Suburban in the time it takes to get the top off the TR4 and everything stowed.  

Phil "one-armed-paper-hanger" Ethier

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri May 22 12:54:43 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 11:54:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
Message-ID: <006601c9db0e$c5544870$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

We have cousins that are full-time living in an RV.
They have family on both coasts, north and south.
They use Verizon Wireless. They have a "minutes" type plan, I don't know if
that would make it any different.
They are happy with their services.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>; "6-Pack"
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:24 AM
Subject: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query


> Hi, Everyone
>
> The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the
Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On
> arrival in Florida in late June, I plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go'
cellphone - something cheap and
> cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in buying one
from an ISP with the best
> possible coverage of the US and Canada. From my studies on the 'net of
T-Mobile, Verizon and I think
> O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP
offering better coverage than
> Verizon. Additionally, I'd be interested to know if any ISP retailers
offer external antennas for
> cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc) still have
many weak signal areas
> where the phone antenna itself won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless
its hooked up to an
> external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking of the
long stretches of road in
> rural areas and in the more mountainous areas - especially the Rockies.
Thanks in advance - an
> enquiring mind needs to know.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
> Database version: 6.12450
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.12450
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri May 22 10:11:36 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 09:11:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905220737u1888fb39m394f64138fbc61cb@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c0b.5a304c9c.374721e4@aol.com>
	<7bb181af0905220737u1888fb39m394f64138fbc61cb@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B4160D6AA17240D5AF94708782859F6D@joepentiumnew>

Hey George,
In that group from BC, were there a couple of nice TR6's that each has a
beer can covering their coils?

If so, they do get around a bit.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:37 AM
To: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] vote criterion

On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 2:30 PM, <TR250Driver at aol.com> wrote:

> ...OK I confess...


I guess I too have a bias -- at out local annual event that draws cars from
around the Southwest I do favor out-of-towners.  I just have to give an edge
to the guy who drove 300 miles to be at the show over the guy who drove 30
blocks.

At the event in Las Cruces NM a couple of years ago there were a group of
TRs that had been driven from Vancouver and were taking a year-long sojourn
to scenery and shows around the West.  Had started the previous Fall, stored
the cars and flew home in the mid-winter and flew back (with their wives
this time) to complete the loop and drive home to Canada.  Guys like that
will always get my vote.

Geo
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From spitlist at cox.net  Fri May 22 10:17:20 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 09:17:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <2111252228.12644351243006685229.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <7bb181af0905220746h15229373s81ed90e0407fe14c@mail.gmail.com>
	<2111252228.12644351243006685229.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <458DB3BD216445208F7BAA237471E3DC@joepentiumnew>

Just like the Mk1 and Mk2 Spits, the early TR4's require a building permit
in some states to put the top up, and a demolition permit to take it down.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 8:38 AM
To: Geo Hahn
Cc: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion

----- "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:

> no one puts the top down on a TR4 in anything close to
> 'immediate'.

Bingo.

I could put the top down on the Miata, get the top/doors off the Seven and
stowed, open the windows/moonroof on the Saturn AND open the windows on the
Suburban in the time it takes to get the top off the TR4 and everything
stowed.  

Phil "one-armed-paper-hanger" Ethier
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 22 10:46:43 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 09:46:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Cell-phone coverage in USA and Canada for
 charity tour?
In-Reply-To: <1622401393.12648191243007057149.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
	<1622401393.12648191243007057149.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <39110DE429C44DD2A5DCED64E460176D@jdnet.deere.com>

Curious, Jonmac's original post didn't show up for me.  I wonder if MJB's
ISP is still having problems?

Anyway, I agree that Verizon probably has the best coverage overall.
Certainly there are some places that they don't cover while others do (and I
think their advertisements are a bit optimistic), but they did seem to be
better overall than T-mobile (which I use now).

However, there remain significant portions of the US west where there is
simply no cell phone coverage, no matter which company or what antenna you
use.  Coverage along the Interstate highways appears to be fairly good, but
the same is not true for the old US highways and state highways.  We were
recently running around in New Mexico and Arizona (White Sands, Petrified
Forest, Canyon de Chelly, etc), where I'd say we lacked coverage more often
than we had it, sometimes even inside small towns.  And Colorado mountains
are even worse as I recall.

I've experimented a little with a small external omnidirectional antenna ...
I'd say it's helpful in areas where the coverage is marginal (eg helps hold
the connection when only one bar).  But I'm not sure it extends coverage
area enough to be worth the effort.  And those 'magic' things you stick
inside or on the back of the phone are worthless, IMO.

If you are really desperate for more range, a highly directional antenna (eg
Yagi array) with its own LNA and power amplifier is the only thing that will
really help.  But it needs to be pointed accurately at the tower you are
communicating with, which is impractical to say the least, from a moving
car.

However, a rooftop external antenna might provide enough benefit to be of
some use while driving.  Relocating the antenna outside the car is the main
benefit, but they can also be somewhat directional to the sides.
http://www.sb-systems.com/motorola-v60-cell-phone-antenna.html

If the intent is to communicate with your convoy, you might consider a
direct radio link, like the FRS walkie-talkies or the venerable Citizens
Band radios.

-- Randall 

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri May 22 12:01:34 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 14:01:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tangibly Triumph query
In-Reply-To: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
Message-ID: <4A16E87E.5000407@earthlink.net>

John,

For pay as go phones I personally use and like Tracfone.  No need for an 
external antenna here.  If you can get coverage an antenna won't help.  
 From what I've seen of your route I don't think you'll have a problem 
with coverage. 

Joe
> Hi, Everyone
>
> The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the 
> Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On arrival in Florida in late June, I 
> plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go' cellphone - something cheap and 
> cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in buying 
> one from an ISP with the best possible coverage of the US and Canada. 
> From my studies on the 'net of T-Mobile, Verizon and I think O2, 
> Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP 
> offering better coverage than Verizon. Additionally, I'd be interested 
> to know if any ISP retailers offer external antennas for cellphones. 
> Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc) still have many 
> weak signal areas where the phone antenna itself won't pull in a call 
> (or transmit) unless its hooked up to an external antenna. Does the 
> same apply across the pond? I'm thinking of the long stretches of road 
> in rural areas and in the more mountainous areas - especially the 
> Rockies. Thanks in advance - an enquiring mind needs to know.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Fri May 22 13:54:35 2009
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 12:54:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] voter criterion
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FF22C18@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Well, I just have to weigh in on this...
I tend to gravitate to the drivers.  You know the ones that are a little
worn, a little tired, but nicely cared for, driven regularly and show
it.
Guess I'm a little biased though - that's my daily driver
I have a soft spot for the car that is a little more used.

Peter - 1971 TR6 Daily Driver

From lherault at bu.edu  Fri May 22 14:04:44 2009
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 16:04:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] bonnet should go
Message-ID: <004e01c9db18$8ca5e470$6ed6299b@ad.bu.edu>

All this talk about bonnets has reminded me that I have a red TR 3 bonnet to
get rid of.  It's been in my garage since 1968 and I don't think I'll need
it.  It is slightly sprung and has a minor long dent in it from where it hit
the windshield when the previous owner forgot to fasten it down (Doh!)  It
would close but always had a gap in the front edge, about a half inch or so
at its widest, if I remember correctly.  It is in North Attleborough, MA.
Oh, yes, it is free for the taking, pick up only.  It was originally on my
1958 TR3.  I still miss it (although I can't say that in front of my TR-6)

Ron L

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May 22 14:37:33 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 13:37:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] voter criterion
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FF22C18@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0FF22C18@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c63cbcf76775@[192.168.2.2]>

And then this is some feedback I received after the Shriners Concours 
d'Elegance:


Yours is a good question but ultimately it's the overall point score that
makes the difference. Rosy is as pretty as ever but even a few Botox shots
can't fully mask her use. That said, it has been a puzzlement to me to try
and establish a "fair scoring method" for cars that are regularly driven vs
those that go from the garage to the trailer to the field and back again.


>Well, I just have to weigh in on this...
>I tend to gravitate to the drivers.  You know the ones that are a little
>worn, a little tired, but nicely cared for, driven regularly and show
>it.
>Guess I'm a little biased though - that's my daily driver
>I have a soft spot for the car that is a little more used.
>
>Peter - 1971 TR6 Daily Driver

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
anabil007 at comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From tr3a at comcast.net  Fri May 22 14:45:07 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 16:45:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tangibly Triumph query
In-Reply-To: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
Message-ID: <38B8463B-2E52-43EA-9A73-C5B30B0D68D1@comcast.net>

I have AT&T and am delighted with their service, but I don't travel a  
great deal so I can't say how good it is elsewhere. Sounds like the  
RVers are happy with Verizon.

Looks like they offer a prepaid option too. When I searched for this,  
they asked for a zip code so I used 60606 (Chicago - ISOC :) ).  
Apparently, plans and pricing can vary from one market to another.

http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/store/controller?item=prepayItem&action=viewPrepayOverview


On May 22, 2009, at 10:24 AM, John Macartney wrote:

> Hi, Everyone
>
> The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the  
> Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On arrival in Florida in late June, I  
> plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go' cellphone - something cheap and  
> cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in  
> buying one from an ISP with the best possible coverage of the US and  
> Canada. From my studies on the 'net of T-Mobile, Verizon and I think  
> O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP  
> offering better coverage than Verizon. Additionally, I'd be  
> interested to know if any ISP retailers offer external antennas for  
> cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc)  
> still have many weak signal areas where the phone antenna itself  
> won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless its hooked up to an  
> external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking  
> of the long stretches of road in rural areas and in the more  
> mountainous areas - especially the Rockies. Thanks in advance - an  
> enquiring mind needs to know.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation  
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri May 22 14:49:22 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 21:49:22 +0100
Subject: [TR] [Shop-talk] Cell-phone coverage in USA and Canada for
 charity tour?
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
	<1622401393.12648191243007057149.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<39110DE429C44DD2A5DCED64E460176D@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <124BD5643478433BA13D96458EAF3E66@John>

Thanks, friend.

> If the intent is to communicate with your convoy, you might consider a
> direct radio link, like the FRS walkie-talkies or the venerable Citizens
> Band radios.

There's going to be quite enough in the car anyway, without CB's :) The need is simply to be able to 
have contact with the various people who are kindly accommodating me - as well as them being able to 
call me. FWIW, the phone will go in its own cradle on the screen and I'll have a bluetooth thingie 
in my ear. I've got accustomed to this kind of set-up as cellphone use here and in Europe means 4 
points on your licence and a very substantial fine if the police see you with the cellphone held to 
your ear while driving the car. One of the few motoring laws which I feel are sensible.

JM 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 22 15:56:07 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 14:56:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <B4160D6AA17240D5AF94708782859F6D@joepentiumnew>
References: <c0b.5a304c9c.374721e4@aol.com>
	<7bb181af0905220737u1888fb39m394f64138fbc61cb@mail.gmail.com>
	<B4160D6AA17240D5AF94708782859F6D@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905221456h8fe1900h77498c3738442f24@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 9:11 AM, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:

> In that group from BC, were there a couple of nice TR6's that each has a
> beer can covering their coils?
>
> If so, they do get around a bit.


I do not recall.  Mainly I recollect the TR3A in the group that had a laptop
mounted by the driver for navigation.  An interesting juxtapositioning of
the old & new.

Geo

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Fri May 22 17:58:28 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 16:58:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>

Here's a question for the list: how many hours were put in to the
restoration of your car? Not the money but the hours. I phrase it that way
because some people do their own work, some have all done, and others chose
a hybrid. All are different costs and force different focus.
I know the time it takes is all dependent on the condition of the car to
begin with, so if you could give a rating (1-5) of your car to begin with
that would put it in to perspective. 
Let's say:
#5 "Rough". Needs total restoration.
#4 "Fair". Daily drivers.  
#3 "Good". Good Driver, nice "10 footer" 
#2 "Excellent". Could win a local or regional show. 
#1 "Concourse". No further explanation needed.

Let me start - my 67 4A was a "5" and I estimate I put in about 1500 hours
to bring it to a "2".

Yeah, I'm a data junkie, but if I get enough data points I can determine a
guideline and average. Maybe worth while to all of us!

Brian

From tr3a at comcast.net  Fri May 22 18:29:53 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 20:29:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
References: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
Message-ID: <9DCF74B8-B7B5-489E-9FC5-D7C6C717C65F@comcast.net>

Hours?! I haven't even kept track of YEARS!!

On May 22, 2009, at 7:58 PM, Brian Induni wrote:

> Here's a question for the list: how many hours were put in to the
> restoration of your car? Not the money but the hours. I phrase it  
> that way
> because some people do their own work, some have all done, and  
> others chose
> a hybrid. All are different costs and force different focus.
> I know the time it takes is all dependent on the condition of the  
> car to
> begin with, so if you could give a rating (1-5) of your car to begin  
> with
> that would put it in to perspective.
> Let's say:
> #5 "Rough". Needs total restoration.
> #4 "Fair". Daily drivers.
> #3 "Good". Good Driver, nice "10 footer"
> #2 "Excellent". Could win a local or regional show.
> #1 "Concourse". No further explanation needed.
>
> Let me start - my 67 4A was a "5" and I estimate I put in about 1500  
> hours
> to bring it to a "2".
>
> Yeah, I'm a data junkie, but if I get enough data points I can  
> determine a
> guideline and average. Maybe worth while to all of us!
>
> Brian
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pryner at verizon.net  Fri May 22 19:14:48 2009
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 21:14:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <9DCF74B8-B7B5-489E-9FC5-D7C6C717C65F@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
	<9DCF74B8-B7B5-489E-9FC5-D7C6C717C65F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8658EEC146E744AF9622D98DECF2341D@PetePC>

Years is right for me too.  I started my rating 5 TR3 to a frame off 
restoration while in the Air Force and it took over 10 years and three moves 
to complete.  I did an AH 3000 in record time of three years while stationed 
in Minot, ND, but the light was good until 11:00 in the summer.  It started 
as a 3-4 and was not a frame off restoration, but every body panel was off. 
I don't want to even try to guess the hours...........
Pete
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Ferguson" <tr3a at comcast.net>
To: <308gtsi at roadrunner.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 8:29 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] How long did it take?


> Hours?! I haven't even kept track of YEARS!!
>
> On May 22, 2009, at 7:58 PM, Brian Induni wrote:
>
>> Here's a question for the list: how many hours were put in to the
>> restoration of your car? Not the money but the hours. I phrase it  that 
>> way
>> because some people do their own work, some have all done, and  others 
>> chose
>> a hybrid. All are different costs and force different focus.
>> I know the time it takes is all dependent on the condition of the  car to
>> begin with, so if you could give a rating (1-5) of your car to begin 
>> with
>> that would put it in to perspective.
>> Let's say:
>> #5 "Rough". Needs total restoration.
>> #4 "Fair". Daily drivers.
>> #3 "Good". Good Driver, nice "10 footer"
>> #2 "Excellent". Could win a local or regional show.
>> #1 "Concourse". No further explanation needed.
>>
>> Let me start - my 67 4A was a "5" and I estimate I put in about 1500 
>> hours
>> to bring it to a "2".
>>
>> Yeah, I'm a data junkie, but if I get enough data points I can  determine 
>> a
>> guideline and average. Maybe worth while to all of us!
>>
>> Brian

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May 22 19:17:22 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 21:17:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] gear shift boot
Message-ID: <200905222117.23443.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,


I was moving the 3 back into the garage after rebuilding the MC and an oil 
change and filter and noticed the rubber shift boot is torn in the center. This 
boot is less than one year old! The last one lasted almost 25 years!

Has anyone out there in TR land replaced the rubber boot with a vinyl or 
leather setup similar to what is used on the TR6? Seems the way to go since 
the current rubber parts are made out of used you know what!

Bob

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri May 22 20:02:53 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 22:02:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query
In-Reply-To: <D39FCE41-C5B6-44D4-BCB1-6B757483A794@comcast.net>
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
	<D39FCE41-C5B6-44D4-BCB1-6B757483A794@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002401c9db4a$95a437c0$c0eca740$@net>

Verizon Is good in Maryland, DC and Northern Virginia to. 

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ashford Little
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 12:23 PM
To: John Macartney
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query

John,

Don't go withT-Mobile. Good service in service area, but once you get  
out of major metro areas then you may have nothing.  I've got AT&T,  
but I hear Verizon is the best.


Ashford Little
70tr6 at comcast.net



On May 22, 2009, at 10:24 AM, John Macartney wrote:

> Hi, Everyone
>
> The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the  
> Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On arrival in Florida in late June, I  
> plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go' cellphone - something cheap and  
> cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in  
> buying one from an ISP with the best possible coverage of the US and  
> Canada. From my studies on the 'net of T-Mobile, Verizon and I think  
> O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP  
> offering better coverage than Verizon. Additionally, I'd be  
> interested to know if any ISP retailers offer external antennas for  
> cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc)  
> still have many weak signal areas where the phone antenna itself  
> won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless its hooked up to an  
> external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking  
> of the long stretches of road in rural areas and in the more  
> mountainous areas - especially the Rockies. Thanks in advance - an  
> enquiring mind needs to know.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation  
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 70tr6 at comcast.net
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri May 22 20:18:48 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 22:18:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
References: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
Message-ID: <003101c9db4c$ceebff20$6cc3fd60$@net>

Years for me and it's still going (if I get it done I'll sale it and start
over)

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Induni
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:58 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?

Here's a question for the list: how many hours were put in to the
restoration of your car? Not the money but the hours. I phrase it that way
because some people do their own work, some have all done, and others chose
a hybrid. All are different costs and force different focus.
I know the time it takes is all dependent on the condition of the car to
begin with, so if you could give a rating (1-5) of your car to begin with
that would put it in to perspective. 
Let's say:
#5 "Rough". Needs total restoration.
#4 "Fair". Daily drivers.  
#3 "Good". Good Driver, nice "10 footer" 
#2 "Excellent". Could win a local or regional show. 
#1 "Concourse". No further explanation needed.

Let me start - my 67 4A was a "5" and I estimate I put in about 1500 hours
to bring it to a "2".

Yeah, I'm a data junkie, but if I get enough data points I can determine a
guideline and average. Maybe worth while to all of us!

Brian
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

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From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 22 20:22:08 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 19:22:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <8658EEC146E744AF9622D98DECF2341D@PetePC>
References: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
	<9DCF74B8-B7B5-489E-9FC5-D7C6C717C65F@comcast.net>
	<8658EEC146E744AF9622D98DECF2341D@PetePC>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905221922u1f6f2c15jf9181fcc93c8ec83@mail.gmail.com>

Years would be about right for me but if that includes each restoration then
the total would be about 20.

Shoot, the last time around the shop that did the final body work and paint
had it 16 months (est had been 4-6 weeks).

Counting the hours is just one step up from counting the dollars and you
*never* want to go there.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 22 20:24:44 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 19:24:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] gear shift boot
In-Reply-To: <200905222117.23443.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200905222117.23443.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905221924o5a42aad7i985eef5927928cbe@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 6:17 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> Has anyone out there in TR land replaced the rubber boot with a vinyl or
> leather setup similar to what is used on the TR6? Seems the way to go since
> the current rubber parts are made out of used you know what!


Seems like I see a leather boot on eBay that is listed as 'for a TR3' from
time to time.  But then I see a lot of things on eBay for TR3s that raise
serious doubts.

Last time I replaced the boot I bought 2 -- that may be the secret as the
replacement has lasted for about 7 years.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 22 20:29:55 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 19:29:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] gear shift boot
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905221924o5a42aad7i985eef5927928cbe@mail.gmail.com>
References: <200905222117.23443.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<7bb181af0905221924o5a42aad7i985eef5927928cbe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905221929s127d2f38he4970e9bbc8fe31f@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 7:24 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>  Seems like I see a leather boot on eBay that is listed as 'for a TR3'
> from time to time.  But then I see a lot of things on eBay for TR3s that
> raise serious doubts.
>

Por exemplo...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR6-BLACK-VINYL-SHIFT-BOOT-COVER-UK-MADE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ140728QQihZ001QQitemZ110392514636QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

(not leather) though a crafty soul could make one w/o much trouble I think.

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Fri May 22 21:23:37 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 20:23:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
References: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
Message-ID: <382383.51797.qm@web59708.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Brian,
This is a hard one....I got my TR4A '67 in 1977.  Took it to the
auto/body shop at the college I work at in the early 80s to get some body work
done and a paint job.  It was there for a full semester.  The supervised
students did a good job on the car.  They got some paint where it wasn't
suppose to go, but I cleaned that up (job cost about $100)....In the mid 80s,
I restored the interior of the car while off-contract from work.  I probably
spent 4 afternoons a week for 4 weeks stripping the interior of carpet,
scrapping the floorboards and repainting, removing the dashboard and having it
refinished; then, reinstalling carpet and dashboard with instruments,
etc....Now, the car is at a garage that is full service (does oil changes,
lubes, tune-ups,etc)  The garage takes few restoration projects as their
primary concern is day-to-day maintenance of everyday cars.  I'm having it
partially restored:  engine rebuild with 87mm pistons and mild street
 cam; Toyota tranny conversion installed; engine compartment cleaned and
repaired of corrosion; hydraulics and brakes tended to, etc.  They've had the
car since August last year.  They are slow but doing great work and they are a
full service garage -- not a specialty garage in restorations....How do I
calculate the time invested?  
Pat




________________________________
From:
Brian Induni <308gtsi at roadrunner.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Friday, May 22, 2009 4:58:28 PM
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?

Here's a
question for the list: how many hours were put in to the
restoration of your
car? Not the money but the hours. I phrase it that way
because some people do
their own work, some have all done, and others chose
a hybrid. All are
different costs and force different focus.
I know the time it takes is all
dependent on the condition of the car to
begin with, so if you could give a
rating (1-5) of your car to begin with
that would put it in to perspective.
Let's say:
#5 "Rough". Needs total restoration.
#4 "Fair". Daily drivers.  
#3
"Good". Good Driver, nice "10 footer" 
#2 "Excellent". Could win a local or
regional show. 
#1 "Concourse". No further explanation needed.

Let me start -
my 67 4A was a "5" and I estimate I put in about 1500 hours
to bring it to a
"2".

Yeah, I'm a data junkie, but if I get enough data points I can determine
a
guideline and average. Maybe worth while to all of us!

Brian
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as
pcaffrey at ymail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From allegrorover at mac.com  Fri May 22 21:35:28 2009
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 23:35:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] gear shift boot
In-Reply-To: <200905222117.23443.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200905222117.23443.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <7EB51749-CF59-4497-81A9-78D7FE0B3A30@mac.com>

I found the same thing on my 3A after my restoration, it turned out  
that I had installed the boot 180 out.
Got a new one and it's been good since.
Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat May 23 00:02:06 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 06:02:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905221922u1f6f2c15jf9181fcc93c8ec83@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
	<9DCF74B8-B7B5-489E-9FC5-D7C6C717C65F@comcast.net>
	<8658EEC146E744AF9622D98DECF2341D@PetePC> 
	<7bb181af0905221922u1f6f2c15jf9181fcc93c8ec83@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W41A6817BEDB63173594816E5570@phx.gbl>

I have done all the work myself with the exceptions of the sheet metal and
roll bar.  How about 40 years.

Best regards,
Tom





_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009

From mathews at uga.edu  Sat May 23 04:58:11 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 06:58:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Cell Phone Coverage
Message-ID: <4A17D6C3.5040008@uga.edu>

List,

I do a lot of cross country bicycling and I went with Verizon because of 
what looked like at the time, they had the most coast-to-coast coverage 
areas and I generally find some coverage available, even if it is 
roaming coverage.  Here are web references if anyone is interested:

*http://tinyurl.com/5u9722

http://reviews.cnet.com/cell-phone-buying-guide/

http://cellphones.lovetoknow.com/Cell_Phone_Service_Area_Comparison

*Good luck.

Doug *
*

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat May 23 04:59:43 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 06:59:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
Message-ID: <200905230659.44159.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 22 May 2009 07:58:28 pm Brian Induni wrote:
> Here's a question for the list: how many hours were put in to the
> restoration of your car? Not the money but the hours. I phrase it that way
> because some people do their own work, some have all done, and others chose
> a hybrid. All are different costs and force different focus.
> I know the time it takes is all dependent on the condition of the car to
> begin with, so if you could give a rating (1-5) of your car to begin with
> that would put it in to perspective.
> Let's say:
> #5 "Rough". Needs total restoration.
> #4 "Fair". Daily drivers.
> #3 "Good". Good Driver, nice "10 footer"
> #2 "Excellent". Could win a local or regional show.
> #1 "Concourse". No further explanation needed.
>
> Let me start - my 67 4A was a "5" and I estimate I put in about 1500 hours
> to bring it to a "2".
>
> Yeah, I'm a data junkie, but if I get enough data points I can determine a
> guideline and average. Maybe worth while to all of us!
>
> Brian
Brian,

When I did my 63 TR4 a few years back it took me about 2.5 years total.

It was a 5 for sure. Had only 1 front fender mounted and the front apron was 
damaged.

Figuring about 8 hours a day on most weekends that is about 2000 hours.

I did work most weekdays about 2 hours a day so that comes out to about 900 
hours so the total is 2900 hours.

This was a solid car but required a total body off frame restoration.

The engine work was done by a local machine shop. I did the disassembly and 
re-assembly. The transmission was checked out at a local shop and all I had to 
do was replace the front and rear seals.


I also did all the body work, sand blasting, painting etc.

The total hours could easily be more as I am not real sure about the total 
days, hours per day.

Bob

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat May 23 06:43:20 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 08:43:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
References: <mailman.5.1243015201.15422.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6C11E96FD00947B888850C7C4E2D9A25@Gateway1>
Message-ID: <v0j71b0095Bccag050j73r.@charter.net>

At 07:58 PM 5/22/2009, Brian Induni wrote:
>Here's a question for the list: how many hours were put in to the
>restoration of your car?

In this photo http://fishplate.org/vehicles/  only the TR6 has some 
"restoration" hours in it, as it has had the carpet and seat covers 
replaced.  Everything else is as new, and was kept up with good 
maintenance - it's been in the family since 1977.

The Spitfire has no "restoration" time on it, as I drive it daily, 
and it doesn't need restoration - what's there is what it is.  I'm 
afraid to drive the TR6, as evidenced by the huge dent on the other 
side of the Spitfire, where some incautious driver creased it...I 
would hate for that to happen to a 34 year old car with original paint...

Oh yeah, the Volvos are unrestored...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat May 23 08:13:30 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 10:13:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Racetorations Aluminum Sump windage tray Installation
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEHDFGAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

To all,
I recently bought a Racetorations Aluminum Sump and windage tray from a
local guy  who never installed the thing. It came with a separate pressed
aluminum windage tray that took a bit of adjusting to fit into the sump
correctly.
My question to anyone who has installed one of these is to ask if there is
any trick to getting the windage tray to stay in it's groove in the sump
while installing it? The engine is upside down on an engine stand. I think I
may have to rotate the engine but I just thought I would check with you guys
first.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Sat May 23 08:21:29 2009
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 08:21:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] Cell Phone Coverage
In-Reply-To: <4A17D6C3.5040008@uga.edu>
References: <4A17D6C3.5040008@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <7931C4AA910C42C9A7022D35F7F16694@ultimate7>

My experience is that it doesn't matter as much as you may think, at least
with a pay per minute plan.  Sprint and Verizon will Roam to each other as
will T-mobile and ATT.  So really when you get one, you are getting the
other along with it.  In fact on my old Sprint phone I could tell it to only
roam, never roam, or pick the best signal.

That said, I live in Utah, and while most major roads are very well covered,
there are places where no phone is going to get any signal.

Jeremiah

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Mathews
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 4:58 AM
To: 'Triumph Mail List'
Subject: [TR] Cell Phone Coverage

List,

I do a lot of cross country bicycling and I went with Verizon because of 
what looked like at the time, they had the most coast-to-coast coverage 
areas and I generally find some coverage available, even if it is 
roaming coverage.  Here are web references if anyone is interested:

*http://tinyurl.com/5u9722

http://reviews.cnet.com/cell-phone-buying-guide/

http://cellphones.lovetoknow.com/Cell_Phone_Service_Area_Comparison

*Good luck.

Doug *
*
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jeremiah at curryclan.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From ebartle at hbci.com  Sat May 23 10:14:17 2009
From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 11:14:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
Message-ID: <20090523111417.l0w4zpmk04k8wo08@mail.hbci.com>

   Does anyone have drawings to cut out a replacement seat platform for a TR3A?

   I have seen them on one of the lists I visit.

   Eric

From ebartle at hbci.com  Sat May 23 10:15:17 2009
From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 11:15:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grab Bar
Message-ID: <20090523111517.f3t1kl040cossgcg@mail.hbci.com>

   I need assistance installing the grab bar in my TR3A. It appears  
that if mounted it will block the glove box from opening.

   Eric

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat May 23 12:12:37 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 11:12:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
In-Reply-To: <20090523111417.l0w4zpmk04k8wo08@mail.hbci.com>
References: <20090523111417.l0w4zpmk04k8wo08@mail.hbci.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905231112t567f3410r2da8d316026a6d3c@mail.gmail.com>

In case you don't know... I think there were at least 2 styles, an earlier
with a more rounded front edge and corners and a later straighter
squared-off design.  Perhaps this change coincided with the change in the
sheet metal pressing for the rear area.

Geo

On Sat, May 23, 2009 at 9:14 AM, Eric Bartleson <ebartle at hbci.com> wrote:

>   Does anyone have drawings to cut out a replacement seat platform for a
> TR3A?
>
>   I have seen them on one of the lists I visit.
>
>   Eric

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat May 23 12:17:55 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 11:17:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grab Bar
In-Reply-To: <20090523111517.f3t1kl040cossgcg@mail.hbci.com>
References: <20090523111517.f3t1kl040cossgcg@mail.hbci.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905231117x21adbbbdx9ca472765aaf8d07@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, May 23, 2009 at 9:15 AM, Eric Bartleson <ebartle at hbci.com> wrote:

>   I need assistance installing the grab bar in my TR3A. It appears
> that if mounted it will block the glove box from opening.


Assuming you have the correct grab bar and that you have located the holes &
captive nuts in the scuttle then it owould seem the problem may be that the
sheet metal dash is mounted too high into the scuttle.

How much clearance do you have between the top of the cubby-box door and the
lower edge of the rail?  Should be about 3/8" (I think) when a
leather-covered rail is installed.

As I recall, there is some adjustment provided for (slotted holes?) in the
mounting of the dash.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat May 23 12:22:28 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 11:22:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wilson Motor Company, Washington, MO
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905231122w39b45277he0c051dc920c1d5f@mail.gmail.com>

Any listers with experience with Wilson Motor Company in Washington,
Missouri?

http://wilsonmotorco.com/

Off-list comments welcomed, thanks!

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 23 13:39:33 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 12:39:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905231112t567f3410r2da8d316026a6d3c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090523193933874.FWXJ9202@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> In case you don't know... I think there were at least 2 
> styles, an earlier with a more rounded front edge and corners 
> and a later straighter squared-off design.  Perhaps this 
> change coincided with the change in the sheet metal pressing 
> for the rear area.

I believe it did.  In addition, the mounting brackets changed to suit the
sheet metal change at (or about) TS60000.

Randall

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat May 23 14:13:19 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 16:13:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Racetorations Aluminum Sump windage tray Installation
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEHDFGAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEHDFGAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <E3104809456842B69B6A6558ECBC2227@CarlPC>

on a related subjected - any idea where to get a tray?  have the sump 
but....
or, how important is it for 'normal' driving.

Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Connitt" <dconnitt at fuse.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 10:13 AM
Subject: [TR] Racetorations Aluminum Sump windage tray Installation


> To all,
> I recently bought a Racetorations Aluminum Sump and windage tray from a
> local guy  who never installed the thing. It came with a separate pressed
> aluminum windage tray that took a bit of adjusting to fit into the sump
> correctly.
> My question to anyone who has installed one of these is to ask if there is
> any trick to getting the windage tray to stay in it's groove in the sump
> while installing it? The engine is upside down on an engine stand. I think 
> I
> may have to rotate the engine but I just thought I would check with you 
> guys
> first.
> Thanks,
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A
> http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat May 23 22:07:27 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 21:07:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] how long it takes
Message-ID: <489948.74053.qm@web59406.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

My tr-3 is plainly a #5 and I'm curious myself about how long it'll take. 
I've been keeping track of hours as closely as I can adn have not tallied them
up yet.  I'm sure it'll be more than 1500 hours.  I'm a newbie at much of the
work...........(well ok ALL of the work)lol  sooo i've been going slowly and
carefully.  I'll let everyone know when i'm done..............lol

gary n.

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun May 24 09:05:51 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 11:05:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] gear shift boot
References: <200905222117.23443.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<7bb181af0905221924o5a42aad7i985eef5927928cbe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <91E9064AC10C492BAAB6090641892D6B@Alan>

I sell a Leather gear shift boot for the TR6, it could possibly be used on 
the TR3.
The leather boot fits over the rubber boot. It does not replace it.

I also have one for the MGB, which may be more appropriate for the TR3, 
since it has a collar on it which is held down by the gear shift ring.
Al Salvatore

Photos at photobucket.
http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/gators/

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
To: "TR List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] gear shift boot


> On Fri, May 22, 2009 at 6:17 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone out there in TR land replaced the rubber boot with a vinyl or
>> leather setup similar to what is used on the TR6? Seems the way to go 
>> since
>> the current rubber parts are made out of used you know what!
>
>
> Seems like I see a leather boot on eBay that is listed as 'for a TR3' from
> time to time.  But then I see a lot of things on eBay for TR3s that raise
> serious doubts.
>
> Last time I replaced the boot I bought 2 -- that may be the secret as the
> replacement has lasted for about 7 years.
>
> Geo
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From team.net at daveola.com  Sun May 24 14:20:19 2009
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 13:20:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
In-Reply-To: <20090523111417.l0w4zpmk04k8wo08@mail.hbci.com>
Message-ID: <E1M8KFR-00075h-NU@dave.getdave.com>

Eric said:
> Does anyone have drawings to cut out a replacement seat platform for a TR3A?

Are you trying to replace a removed/damaged seat platform, or add
a seat platform to a TR3 that came without one?

I did the latter, and I put the info up at:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Backseat/

It has worked quite well, it also gives me rear speakers and a
small locked area in the back.  I don't have measurements because
I was just cutting everything to fit.

Dave


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
---------- "Beware of bugs in the above code;               ---------------
            I have only proved it correct, not tried it."   - Donald Knuth

From jimbpps at cox.net  Sun May 24 15:12:39 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 14:12:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
In-Reply-To: <E1M8KFR-00075h-NU@dave.getdave.com>
References: <20090523111417.l0w4zpmk04k8wo08@mail.hbci.com>
	<E1M8KFR-00075h-NU@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <3D53600D778A4716BFB3895105EB5B1D@JimofficePC>

Dave, That is really neat! I like the way it looks and works!

Jim 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Ljung Madison
Sent: Sunday, May 24, 2009 1:20 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans

Eric said:
> Does anyone have drawings to cut out a replacement seat platform for a TR3A?

Are you trying to replace a removed/damaged seat platform, or add a seat
platform to a TR3 that came without one?

I did the latter, and I put the info up at:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Backseat/

It has worked quite well, it also gives me rear speakers and a small locked area
in the back.  I don't have measurements because I was just cutting everything to
fit.

Dave


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
---------- "Beware of bugs in the above code;               ---------------
            I have only proved it correct, not tried it."   - Donald Knuth
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From trglory at verizon.net  Sun May 24 16:07:04 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2009 18:07:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
In-Reply-To: <20090523111417.l0w4zpmk04k8wo08@mail.hbci.com>
Message-ID: <50C3070321D54E93A032FFBABFFBE603@newbox>

Eric;

I have attached an article that I scanned from a very old TRA newsletter
which was written by Joe Richards. Because it was scanned, the pattern will
not be to scale but if you know how to change the size of PDFs you can get
it exact. All dimensions are there so you can cut the piece even with no
pattern. 

BTW, there were three different designs used on TR3s; plans for all are
included in the article. The list will not get the attachment so if anyone
else is interested, give a shout or find issue #64 of TRA newsletter.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Eric Bartleson
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2009 12:14 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans

   Does anyone have drawings to cut out a replacement seat platform for a
TR3A?

   I have seen them on one of the lists I visit.

   Eric

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Rear Seat Build.pdf]


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun May 24 22:35:02 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 00:35:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770905242135pf33e225qb7abe70146cfbeae@mail.gmail.com>

I tend to leave my bonnet closed.

my engine area is orignal, more or less.

my concern is that our cars (well I'd like to think so)  spend little time
with their bonnets up.

I like the look of my car iwth the bonnet down and most of the the time show
it that way so others can see how a real tr4 looks in the wild. To me you
can't get the real picture of what Triumphs look like with every hood up.
You gotta walk around it and say, wow I could see myself in this thing....

my car is definately a 10 footer if not more.

take care!

On Wed, May 20, 2009 at 11:52 AM, <Loumetelko at aol.com> wrote:

> Listers:
> Attended my first British show of the season this past Sunday in Columbus,
> Ohio and on the way back home (3 hour drive) I wondered what do you look
> for  before your cast your vote in Participant Choice shows?  With a line
> of
> say  a dozen TR6s, what determines your preference?
>
> Personally I will never vote for a car with the bonnet closed!  Being  a
> confirmed Concours freak, I look for "correctness" and the last thing is
> the
> owners name on the placard to refrain from "friends" voting.
>
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
> 54 TR2LD
>
>
> **************Dell Inspiron 15 Laptop: Now in 6 vibrant colors! Shop Dellb
> s
> full line of laptops.
> (
> http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222399266x1201456865/aol?redir=http
> :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net <http://2fad.doubleclick.net/>
> %2Fclk%3B215073777%3B3703434
> 3%3Bf)
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
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>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as ccsimonsen at gmail.com
>
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From thebujas at comcast.net  Mon May 25 00:06:39 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 01:06:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag Setback
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1243188001.24558.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIEEHFDGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

I wish I had better "bad" news to deliver.

The good news is that none of the three people in the car were injured.

The bad news is that the TTA Stag suffered a catastrophic gearbox failure
just after 7pm on Sunday evening on its third drive of the day.  The gearbox
case broke as it was being shifted from 3rd to neutral and before it could
be put in 4th. The remains of the gearbox and the overdrive fell to the
pavement, and then broke the exhaust and driveshaft as the 1st/2nd/3rd gear
cluster shaft dug into the pavement and launched the car over it.

A brief write-up and three photos are online at
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

We're already trying to find a solution for quickly replacing the gearbox
and exhaust.

Things were going so well today, too!

Tim Buja

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon May 25 06:22:24 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 08:22:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] vote criterion
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770905242135pf33e225qb7abe70146cfbeae@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c47.59292fbc.3745812e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A1A5540.16168.93627@localhost>

On 25 May 2009 at 0:35, Chris Simo wrote:

> my car is definately a 10 footer if not more.

"And I like less than half of you half as much as you deserve."

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From banc8004 at comcast.net  Mon May 25 07:45:33 2009
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 13:45:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Windage Tray
In-Reply-To: <986097812.12480101243258792057.JavaMail.root@sz0080a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <40525502.12481241243259133594.JavaMail.root@sz0080a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Carl: you can find a windage tray here:
http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Triumph.html

Here is what Crank Scrapers claim as benefits:



What are some of the benefits?

B7 Less rotating mass for the engine to accelerate because of the removed oil

B7 Less loss of power because of excessive drag caused by the windage cloud

B7 Helps reduce engine damaging oil-foaming

B7 Helps avoid oil starvation by keeping the oil in the pan during hard
braking and turning as well as during off-road driving

B7 Helps to cool critical engine parts by quickly returning heated oil to the
sump

B7 Helps to prevent the cylinder walls from being overloaded with oil

B7 Can help with fuel efficiency



Modern cars have them as standard. I think I read somewhere that you'll get 3
to 5 HP.




Scraper and baffle are around $250. Add $100 for teflon blades that bed in to
match your spinning bits perfectly.




...it is on my list of 'things to do...'




Cheers,




Brian

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Mon May 25 08:32:50 2009
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 07:32:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Overdrive wiring questions (A type)
Message-ID: <745453.48323.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all

I managed to find an od gearbox for my early TR6 and have completed the "mechanical" portion of the install.  Now comes the hard part (for me) - the wiring.  I've read everything that I could find on the internet including Mark Gibson's very helpful conversion notes but I have a few questions - some will seem obtuse but I want to get it right.  I purchased the installation kit from Quantum Mechanics so I have all the correct bits.  Now for my inane questions:

1.  The routing for the switch wiring isn't obvious to me.  Does the wire enter the column begind the light switch to come out of the bottom and run in the "tray"" underneath?

2. I've connected the upper"harness to the relay and fuse box and now need to route the harness back to the switch and the gearbox.  Is there a particular route for this?  I was thinking that I'd go around the back of the wiper motor and through the same grommet as either the oil line or speedometer cable.

3. That's another question - what is the correct routing for the speedometer cable?

I may have more ?s as the day wears on but this will get me well on my way!

Thanks for any help and insight that you can provide.

best wishes
Steve

From jimbpps at cox.net  Mon May 25 10:48:38 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 09:48:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] FW:  TR6 Overdrive wiring questions (A type)
Message-ID: <0A192A37B23D4EDAA32C8762083236F0@JimofficePC>

See my comments below:

Give me a call if you have any additional questions.

Jim
Jim Bauder
480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
http://www.triumphowners.com/647 



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Smith
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 7:33 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Overdrive wiring questions (A type)

Hi all

I managed to find an od gearbox for my early TR6 and have completed the
"mechanical" portion of the install.  Now comes the hard part (for me) - the
wiring.  I've read everything that I could find on the internet including Mark
Gibson's very helpful conversion notes but I have a few questions - some will
seem obtuse but I want to get it right.  I purchased the installation kit from
Quantum Mechanics so I have all the correct bits.  Now for my inane questions:

1.  The routing for the switch wiring isn't obvious to me.  Does the wire enter
the column begind the light switch to come out of the bottom and run in the
"tray"" underneath?------------Yes

2. I've connected the upper"harness to the relay and fuse box and now need to
route the harness back to the switch and the gearbox.  Is there a particular
route for this?  I was thinking that I'd go around the back of the wiper motor
and through the same grommet as either the oil line or speedometer
cable.---------That will work fine.

3. That's another question - what is the correct routing for the speedometer
cable? ----------Straight out through the original speedo cable grommet and hole
in the dash, then down through the hole with and a 2nd grommet in the angled
brace on the dash by the fuel pump, then over the top of the transmission and
into a 90 degree angle drive adaptor in to the O/D tail shaft. If you don't have
an angle adaptor yet, the one Moss sells is really a good one , pricey but a
good part!

I may have more ?s as the day wears on but this will get me well on my way!

Thanks for any help and insight that you can provide.

best wishes
Steve
Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon May 25 13:06:10 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 20:06:10 +0100
Subject: [TR] Heard on Sunday in UK at Standard-Triumph Marque Day
Message-ID: <101B2A277590491AB35E6EEAAE155FC5@John>

S-T Marque Day in the UK was the hottest day of the year, so far. Held at RAF Duxford - a branch of 
The Imperial War Museum - and near Cambridge.
Organisers said there were about 750 cars present. My wife and a friend were walking to buy 
ice-cream and overheard the following:

A little girl (about 3 years old) was walking along the serried ranks of gleaming cars with her 
Mummy.
"Mummy!!!! Look, there's another old Trump!!!"
"No darling, ssshhhh - you don't say trump. It's Triumph"

(For those of us divided by a common language, the use of 'trump' in the UK is the more polite term 
for flatulence)

So probably, if we'd all listened very carefully during the day, we might have *heard* the odd 
trump - but there's absolutely no doubt on another score and that was the number of Old Trumps 
driving them. I'm pleased to say I was one of them!

Jonmac

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Mon May 25 15:55:17 2009
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 17:55:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] pcv valve tr3 t4
Message-ID: <d0f.4b3edc5a.374c6dc5@aol.com>

Because of my home made Toyota transmission conversion, I am finding it 
easier to convert the motor to a closed system. I also like the idea better 
than the vent tube.
I have an inlet manifold from what I think is a TR4. It has a valve set 
into the bridge between the 2 carb mounting brackets. I think it may be moss 
part #397-680. its a one way valve, so it will let gas into the manifold but 
it wont let any back to the motor.
Does this constitute a PCV valve?
What else does the big assembly do (moss 360-630) that this little valve 
does not?
Oh yes, I do have the rocker box to match.
 
frank fisher
 
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823249x1201398664/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
ExcfooterNO62)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon May 25 17:12:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 16:12:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] pcv valve tr3 t4
In-Reply-To: <d0f.4b3edc5a.374c6dc5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090525231202868.OLYX11639@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> I think it may be moss part #397-680.

That doesn't appear to be a valid Moss number, Frank.  Perhaps you mean
379-680?  My catalog describes that as an "adapter".
http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29123#67

> What else does the big assembly do (moss 360-630) that this 
> little valve does not?

The big valve is a kind of pressure regulator; it limits how much of the
manifold vacuum can be applied to the crankcase.  It's also a flow
regulator, so limits how much air can be admitted to the manifold.  In
addition to being a check valve.

Note that for true "ventilation", you also need a fresh air intake for the
crankcase.  This should supply filtered air, and be fairly large diameter
(IMO the Triumph vented caps aren't large enough).  I'd say at least 3/4"
id, 1" would be better.  This is because the labyrinth rear seal is very
sensitive to positive pressure inside the crankcase, and at full throttle
(where blowby is greatest), there is no manifold vacuum to pull fumes
through the PCV valve.  For best emissions reduction, the fresh air intake
should also be arranged such that any fumes that do escape from it are
directed into the carb intake to still be burned.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon May 25 20:26:54 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 22:26:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heard on Sunday in UK at Standard-Triumph Marque Day
In-Reply-To: <101B2A277590491AB35E6EEAAE155FC5@John>
Message-ID: <4A1B1B2E.5032.13C47C@localhost>

On 25 May 2009 at 20:06, John Macartney wrote:

> So probably, if we'd all listened very carefully during the day,
> we might have *heard* the odd trump - but there's absolutely no
> doubt on another score and that was the number of Old Trumps
> driving them. I'm pleased to say I was one of them!

Giving you the kindness of the doubt, I'd suggest that perhaps we 
hear an enthusiastic exhaust note from a real TrIumph.

Sorry to hear about the Stag gearbox.  I had the misfortune to 
experience total gearbox failure in the GT6 once.  Not a pleasant 
thing, but at least it didn't fall out the bottom of the car.



-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 25 21:40:55 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (sumton at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 20:40:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <577385.73860.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

is anyone near San Lorenzo, CA between San Leandro and Hayward...south of
Oakland and across the bay from SF?  and willing to pick up a couple parts and
take them to nationals?  i would be willing to compensate you for your
time/travel. 
 
they won't fit in a tr but which would fit easily inside an suv or on a
trailer.

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Tue May 26 08:28:51 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 10:28:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
Message-ID: <d3e.3d264af0.374d56a3@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/26/2009 9:44:56 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

When I  see a row of highly polished cars with the bonnets and trunk lids 
open, I  usually walk the 
other way thinking about dead sharks
 
 
 
This has been a very enlightening thread for me. 
I like looking at cars with bonnets up - its intensely interesting to me to 
 see things like the TR6 with 6 motorcycle carbs on it at The VTR South 
Central  Regional and the TR4 with EFI running thru 2 SUs I saw at The  
Gathering.  I saw Richard Good's oil seperator on 2 or 3 different  TR6s at The 
South Central Regional - I'd never seen that before. There were  several TR6s 
with original AC systems - took a really close look at those to see  if they 
looked like mine and discovered they all had 1 part I'm missing. I  know 
these cars look like with the bonnets down - if they hadn't had them up, I  
would have missed seeing all this neat stuff and, in some cases might have  
missed the ensuing conversations with the owners - and I'm only talking about 2 
 shows in April!   Consequently, it would be very rare for me to  vote for 
a car with bonnet closed - I had no idea so many people (any, actually)  
felt otherwise.
Participants choice shows are great occasions for seeing cars, socializing  
and so on, but I think we've demonstrated that the awards are really 
popularity  contests that don't mean very much - since we all vote for what we 
like or what  strikes out fancy on that particular day.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc 
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377034x1201454326/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
MaystepsfooterNO62)

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue May 26 13:10:32 2009
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 15:10:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] electric motor Brush repair
In-Reply-To: <4A132CC6.3886.165EA6A4@localhost>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501D6D61E@mail.ex-centris.net>

My karcher pressure washer gave up the ghost. I discovered that the
little braided copper lead had broken off the carbon rod that forms one
of the motor brushes.

I can't seem to locate anybody selling the brushes, so I was wondering
if I could repair it. I bored a small hole 1/4" into the carbon and
inserted one end of the braid.

The question is; how do I attach the braid to the carbon rod? The
connection has to be somewhat solid and electrically conductive. I was
wondering about liquid solder.

Any experience out in list land?

Cheers,

Mark
1972 TR6

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Tue May 26 13:25:17 2009
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 15:25:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] Radiator Duct
Message-ID: <c89.48c1b748.374d9c1d@aol.com>

I once had a TR3 which had a nicely built sheet metal shroud. I  removed it 
because of all the ratteles.
 
Mike Moore 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue May 26 14:22:33 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 16:22:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
In-Reply-To: <50C3070321D54E93A032FFBABFFBE603@newbox>
References: <50C3070321D54E93A032FFBABFFBE603@newbox>
Message-ID: <FD1721E9939E4CCBB796B52EA3A8D9FD@CarlPC>

Could someone take a couple photos of the rear seat on a post-60000 TR3A/B? 
Joe sent me the article and the seat portion is well documented but there is 
no image of the seatback.

Thanks
Carl

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue May 26 15:08:30 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 14:08:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
In-Reply-To: <FD1721E9939E4CCBB796B52EA3A8D9FD@CarlPC>
References: <50C3070321D54E93A032FFBABFFBE603@newbox>
	<FD1721E9939E4CCBB796B52EA3A8D9FD@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <405B76B839994F428613D8E838730FF7@jdnet.deere.com>

> Joe sent me the article and the seat portion is well documented but there
> is no image of the seatback.

I think that's because the occasional seat did not include a back for the
3A.  The standard gas tank cover formed the back, when the occasional seat
was installed.  The separate back was only used on the TR3.

-- Randall 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue May 26 15:15:26 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 17:15:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans
In-Reply-To: <405B76B839994F428613D8E838730FF7@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <50C3070321D54E93A032FFBABFFBE603@newbox>
	<FD1721E9939E4CCBB796B52EA3A8D9FD@CarlPC>
	<405B76B839994F428613D8E838730FF7@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <00A821EC0F744F66B9FAF8303641F9D9@CarlPC>

Boy do I feel dumb...  been so long since I saw the seat I forgot completely 
that that was how it was....    sorry all.../

C



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Carl TR'" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 5:08 PM
Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Rear Seat Plans


>> Joe sent me the article and the seat portion is well documented but there
>> is no image of the seatback.
>
> I think that's because the occasional seat did not include a back for the
> 3A.  The standard gas tank cover formed the back, when the occasional seat
> was installed.  The separate back was only used on the TR3.
>
> -- Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue May 26 16:47:43 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 22:47:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] electric motor Brush repair
In-Reply-To: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501D6D61E@mail.ex-centris.net>
Message-ID: <1841885717.13956471243378063019.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I can't seem to locate anybody selling the brushes, so I was wondering
>if I could repair it. I bored a small hole 1/4" into the carbon and
>inserted one end of the braid.

>The question is; how do I attach the braid to the carbon rod? The
>connection has to be somewhat solid and electrically conductive. I was
>wondering about liquid solder.


Mark,



Not sure where you're located, but brushes are available in a wide variety of
sizes and styles at better hardware stores.B  Engineers are better at this and
will advise you better here than I, but it always seemed to me that brushes
were molded somehow around the lead.B  For the best results, I'd keep looking
locally, or even get on the manufacturer's website to see if you can't find
the exact part.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue May 26 18:57:30 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 20:57:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] electric motor Brush repair
In-Reply-To: <1841885717.13956471243378063019.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501D6D61E@mail.ex-centris.net>
	<1841885717.13956471243378063019.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770905261757p77b51262m213e3d41a9966467@mail.gmail.com>

I have on occasion bought brushes for a different motor and sanded them down
to fit....

Chris

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue May 26 20:32:07 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 22:32:07 -0400
Subject: [TR]  Bonnets, was Re: vote criterion
Message-ID: <87F225207C984622BE4730A39311DD37@BOBSNEWPC>

Jack......... I couldn't have said it better myself! I know what these cars
look like with their bonnets and trunks closed. A TR6 looks like every other
TR6 within its model year. Plus I can open the door to my garage and see my
car in that state anytime I desire to! At participant shows I want the
bonnet up so I can see what's been done under there and I prefer the
top/hood down so I can get a good look at the interior. I get my
upgrade/improvement ideas by looking at what other people have done. And,
like you, I've seen a real TR5 with FI, the first TR6 with TBI that got me
going on that upgrade, triple webers, triple Mikuni's, V-6 & V-8
conversions, Goorparts' good parts ;-), assorted aluminum radiators and fan
combination, as well as beautifully detailed 100% original engine bays. All
beautiful to look at in their own unique way. To me a line of LBCs all
buttoned up would be the most boring show possible and would probably turn
off the general public from ever attending another one of our shows. These
shows are as much for us as participants as they are for the general public
who may be viewing the cars for the first time or maybe to get ideas for
purchasing one. I would never have my car if the bonnet had been closed when
I saw it at a show. It was for sale and the interior was total trash, from
the dashboard to the crash pads and the seats. If the bonnet was closed I
would have kept on walking thinking that it was as ugly under there as it
was in the interior. BUT....the engine bay had just been beautifully
detailed while the engine was out for a rebuild. I had found my car.

Now.....a concurs judged event is a totally different animal, as well it
should be. Everything should be buttoned up tight in order to see things
like panel alignment, fit and finish or the hood/top and all those other
things that judges look for. But these events are usually part of a
participants event so lets not confuse the two and what's expected at each
one.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue May 26 20:46:08 2009
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 22:46:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] electric motor Brush repair
References: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501D6D61E@mail.ex-centris.net><1841885717.13956471243378063019.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<6fa72a770905261757p77b51262m213e3d41a9966467@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B514A3@mail.ex-centris.net>

Hi Chris:

Now there is a thought.

Oh how I yearn to blast off some mud from the underside of my Triumph...

There; I'm back on topic. !

Mark


________________________________

From: Chris Simo [mailto:ccsimonsen at gmail.com]
Sent: Tue 26/05/2009 8:57 PM
To: Mark Hooper
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] electric motor Brush repair


I have on occasion bought brushes for a different motor and sanded them down
to fit....

Chris

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue May 26 21:00:30 2009
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 23:00:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] electric motor Brush repair
References: <1841885717.13956471243378063019.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B514A4@mail.ex-centris.net>

Hi Terry:

There was a little metal bit molded into the carbon, but it was very small and
when I tried to uncover enough to solder to, it just came away in my hand.
As you say shops that do motor repair must have supplies. I went to a few
stores that sell sprayers, but they are only selling hoses and nozzles, not
internal parts.

Cheers,

Mark
Sent: Tue 26/05/2009 6:47 PM
To: Mark Hooper
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] electric motor Brush repair



>I can't seem to locate anybody selling the brushes, so I was wondering
>if I could repair it. I bored a small hole 1/4" into the carbon and
>inserted one end of the braid.

>The question is; how do I attach the braid to the carbon rod? The
>connection has to be somewhat solid and electrically conductive. I was
>wondering about liquid solder.


Mark,



Not sure where you're located, but brushes are available in a wide variety of
sizes and styles at better hardware stores.  Engineers are better at this and
will advise you better here than I, but it always seemed to me that brushes
were molded somehow around the lead.  For the best results, I'd keep looking
locally, or even get on the manufacturer's website to see if you can't find
the exact part.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Wed May 27 09:44:37 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 08:44:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
Message-ID: <91A5AA084D65404EA2101389877E4EF0@Gateway1>

Thanks to all who had input to my seemingly unanswerable question! Lots of
you said "years", and yes I spent nearly 3 years on my 67 TR4A, but when I
thought about the actual time spent, I estimated it was a few hours a day
(sometimes more sometimes none at all), added it all up and come up with my
rough figure of 1500 hours. And I believe the data shows that to be a pretty
decent estimate. 

 

So, if anyone else is a data junkie like me, all the input I received from
this list as well as other lists and friends tells me that to bring a TR
from a "5" to a "2" will take the average Joe about 1600 hours. Of course,
there are MANY extenuating factors like rust, accident damage, unavailable
parts, and general life occurrences. And just like building a house, much of
the progress is made early on in big brush strokes while the finish work
takes forever. The data shows that going from a "5" to a "4" takes roughly
100 hours, but from a "4" to a "3" takes 500 hours! The next couple of steps
take the same kind of big jumps.

 

As an interesting point, I had zero people tell me they brought their car to
a "1". That means people are actually driving their cars and not building
trailer queens! :-) 

 

If you have input but didn't want to publicize, send to me directly and I'll
aggregate in to the rest of the data. Send it to 308gtsi at roadrunner.com

 

Thanks again to all and I hope you find this data useful!

 

Brian

Looking for my next car project and marketing client.

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed May 27 15:52:55 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 14:52:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] wiper arms
Message-ID: <291105.25076.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

anyone have any late model wiper arms that they want to get rid of

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed May 27 17:09:11 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 16:09:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] wiper arms
In-Reply-To: <291105.25076.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <291105.25076.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905271609q430ae18ft5c34fb108e8d5e5f@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, May 27, 2009 at 2:52 PM, john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> anyone have any late model wiper arms that they want to get rid of
>

Mr Doe (I don't feel I know you well enough to call you John):

You might mention what car you have in mind.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed May 27 17:59:43 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 19:59:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] How long did it take?
In-Reply-To: <91A5AA084D65404EA2101389877E4EF0@Gateway1>
Message-ID: <4A1D9BAF.15495.9D9BB3B@localhost>

On 27 May 2009 at 8:44, Brian Induni wrote:

> but when I thought about the actual time spent, I estimated it
> was a few hours a day (sometimes more sometimes none at all),

I have never tried to "restore" a car but I've sure spent plenty of 
hours keeping them running and in a condition good enough for driving 
to be a pleasant experience.  Maybe I just aim for a 6.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 28 10:24:10 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 09:24:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Aero Kroil
In-Reply-To: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <67BEB200B731474DA475B0995E0AE71D@jdnet.deere.com>

Bob wrote :
> Well my order of the 16oz Aero Kroil came by UPS today and I am going to
> give it a try on my 6 project engine 

Just curious, Bob, how did your experiment turn out?  I've tried AeroKroil
in the past, but it didn't seem to work any better than PBB for me.

-- Randall 

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Thu May 28 10:51:42 2009
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 12:51:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Chromers in Penn
In-Reply-To: <DC757B49F67B40FA96712EFAB6009AB6@newbox>
References: <9148A633-4516-4DA8-BA0C-66891381CAE5@mac.com>
	<DC757B49F67B40FA96712EFAB6009AB6@newbox>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0905280951w6219f28bxeedf0702bba74059@mail.gmail.com>

Wishbone Classics' Kai Radicke recommends these shops near Philly if you
find Librandi's (great work) too expensive.
--------------------------------------------------------------
It depends on how large the item is.  The company I used to use was Martins
Metal Finishing on State Rd in Philadelphia, they're Level 2 chrome was
excellent value for the money.  Level 1 was if you were restoring a Bugatti
or something, I couldn't tell the difference visually.  I've tried reaching
Martin's a few times and haven't had success... but these used to be the
go-to guys for top notchchrome in the Philadelphia area.

Martin's Metal Specialties?
7327 State Rd
Philadelphia, PA
(215) 331-5565?

For small items, try Revel Capewell in Norristown, PA.  I don't think his
tanks are big enough to do a bumper, but ask as I don't remember.  The guy's
name is Nick.

303 W. Oak St.
Norristown, PA 19401 map
Phone: 610-272-8075

Capewell does a great job with zinc plating, one yellow zinc and one clear
zinc.  Does a nice job, prices are reasonable and usually quick turn around.
 He does all sorts of other plating as well.

Kai

On Wed, May 20, 2009 at 4:32 PM, Joe Laurito <trglory at verizon.net> wrote:

> Librandi's Plating, Middletown PA 717-944-9442
> www.carchrome.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio
> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 4:17 PM
> To: email list
> Subject: [TR] Chromers in Penn
>
> List
> Does anyone have the name and telephone number of the chrome shop in
> Pennsylvania that I have seen recommended on this list before???
> I used to have it on my computer but that was a unit that died and I
> have lost the info.
> TIA
>
> Tony Cascio
> 58 TR3A
> TS27093L
> allegrorover at mac.com
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>


-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From geo at ohio.net  Thu May 28 11:16:38 2009
From: geo at ohio.net (Geo)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 13:16:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] 73 gt-6 diagram
References: <9148A633-4516-4DA8-BA0C-66891381CAE5@mac.com><DC757B49F67B40FA96712EFAB6009AB6@newbox>
	<a11dceec0905280951w6219f28bxeedf0702bba74059@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C19860D581394C3BBC73C0CA5116D25A@Medina.local>

hey all

anyone have an improved 1973 gt-6 wiring diagram. seem to remember a 
colorized digital version i could print out bigger :). particularly 
interested in wiring up an od trans in a non od car
thanks geo. 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu May 28 18:24:53 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 20:24:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aero Kroil
In-Reply-To: <67BEB200B731474DA475B0995E0AE71D@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<67BEB200B731474DA475B0995E0AE71D@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <200905282024.53817.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 28 May 2009 12:24:10 pm Randall wrote:
> Bob wrote :
> > Well my order of the 16oz Aero Kroil came by UPS today and I am going to
> > give it a try on my 6 project engine
>
> Just curious, Bob, how did your experiment turn out?  I've tried AeroKroil
> in the past, but it didn't seem to work any better than PBB for me.
>
> -- Randall


Randall,

To be honest I am not sure if it is better than PB blaster.

Neither PB or AK was able to allow the broken studs to be removed from my 6 
exhaust manifold by applying, using a propane torch and vice grips.

What I ended up doing was to weld a nut on to the stub of each stud. Then I 
used my butterfly impact wrench on low setting first then up a notch while 
heating the manifold with a Oxy Acetelene torch and I used some wax also. 
After moving the torque setting to about 5 the broken stud started to move.


The 2nd one required a setting of 6 but it did come out.

The wax, welding and torch were all suggested by list members if the PB 
blaster and AK did not do the job.

And I thank the list for their ideas.


I think with this problem it was the wax, heat and the impact action of the 
butterfly wrench that saved the day.

But I did use it on all the external engine nuts, bolts etc and everything 
came off just great.

Is it better?  More testing needed I guess.

But now I have 2 cans of AK and a can of PB. And with nothing to remove since 
I just removed the last bolt from the engine a week ago and that was the last 
one!

Bob

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Thu May 28 18:51:54 2009
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 20:51:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aero Kroil
In-Reply-To: <200905282024.53817.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<67BEB200B731474DA475B0995E0AE71D@jdnet.deere.com>
	<200905282024.53817.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4A1F31AA.7080800@bright.net>

Bob and list, the best solvent/bolt loosener/whateveryouwanttocallit is 
MOPAR heat riser solvent. The older 6 or straight 8 cylinder cars, say 
up to the early '60', had heat risers in the exhaust manifold. This was 
a flap type valve that was open when cold and closed , bimetallic strip, 
when the engine warmed up. This gave better cold start up running by 
heating the intake manifold.  Cold cast iron going to hot generate 
moisture which would rust the heat riser flap closed.  MOPAR heat riser 
solvent would free these up.  If the solvent didn't work, it was torch 
time.  Problem is, no longer available.  Try to find an old time 
Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth dealer and see if they have any on a dusty back 
shelf.  Ted (who guards his very well)



Bob wrote:
> On Thursday 28 May 2009 12:24:10 pm Randall wrote:
>   
>> Bob wrote :
>>     
>>> Well my order of the 16oz Aero Kroil came by UPS today and I am going to
>>> give it a try on my 6 project engine
>>>       
>> Just curious, Bob, how did your experiment turn out?  I've tried AeroKroil
>> in the past, but it didn't seem to work any better than PBB for me.
>>
>> -- Randall
>>     
>
>
> Randall,
>
> To be honest I am not sure if it is better than PB blaster.
>
> Neither PB or AK was able to allow the broken studs to be removed from my 6 
> exhaust manifold by applying, using a propane torch and vice grips.
>
> What I ended up doing was to weld a nut on to the stub of each stud. Then I 
> used my butterfly impact wrench on low setting first then up a notch while 
> heating the manifold with a Oxy Acetelene torch and I used some wax also. 
> After moving the torque setting to about 5 the broken stud started to move.
>
>
> The 2nd one required a setting of 6 but it did come out.
>
> The wax, welding and torch were all suggested by list members if the PB 
> blaster and AK did not do the job.
>
> And I thank the list for their ideas.
>
>
> I think with this problem it was the wax, heat and the impact action of the 
> butterfly wrench that saved the day.
>
> But I did use it on all the external engine nuts, bolts etc and everything 
> came off just great.
>
> Is it better?  More testing needed I guess.
>
> But now I have 2 cans of AK and a can of PB. And with nothing to remove since 
> I just removed the last bolt from the engine a week ago and that was the last 
> one!
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
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18:09:00

From goh62agan at verizon.net  Thu May 28 20:02:00 2009
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 22:02:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring
Message-ID: <40df4f50d52a0eddc76514ba46f75e78@verizon.net>

List,
Please bear with me . I am continuing on with my wiring . This is not 
my strong suit and I am making this a lot harder than it has to be.  
TIA.
1) My fuse box disintegrated.  Should I use an original type 
replacement or is there an advantage to using an upgraded blade type? 
If I upgrade what exactly do I need? Know any sources for these?
2) There are two wires that come out of the heater box. Does one go 
directly to the switch and the other to a ground?  There are three 
prongs on the blower switch, what are the other two prongs for?
Gary O

From don at napanet.net  Thu May 28 21:42:20 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 20:42:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Preserved Spitfire on CL in SF
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090528203756.035146d8@pop.napanet.net>

Unusually nice old Spitfire.  Not many left that are preserved in this 
condition . . .

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/1193601555.html




____________________________________


Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1962 MGA Mk II
2001 Miata BRG
1973 MGB GT
1962 TR4 (seeking) 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu May 28 21:43:07 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 20:43:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring
In-Reply-To: <40df4f50d52a0eddc76514ba46f75e78@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <20090529034306972.JVLS15569@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> 1) My fuse box disintegrated.  Should I use an original type 
> replacement or is there an advantage to using an upgraded blade type? 

IMO, an original style in good condition is perfectly adequate.  The main
advantage of 'blade' type fuses is that they are small and cheap.

> If I upgrade what exactly do I need? Know any sources for these?

If you really want blade type fuses, then something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330333247391
would work well.  But I have to say that, IMO, an electrical neophyte would
be better off sticking with the stock setup.  Note that your replacement
fuse block needs to have at least 2 inputs; many of the ones sold for stereo
installation and such only have a single input.

> 2) There are two wires that come out of the heater box. Does 
> one go directly to the switch and the other to a ground?  

Should be right.

> There are three prongs on the blower switch, what are the 
> other two prongs for?

One of the prongs should get a green wire that, according to the diagram I
have, comes from the voltage stabilizer on the back of the speedo and gets
power only when the ignition is on.  When the heater switch is turned on, it
connects the two prongs together to supply 12v to the heater motor.  No idea
what the other prong is, my book only shows two of them.  Likely it should
be left open.

Surest way to find out which is which is to use a ohmmeter (multimeter) or a
powered test light.  Look for the pair of terminals that are connected
together (less than 1 ohm or the light comes on) when the switch is 'On';
and not when it is 'Off'.

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu May 28 22:35:19 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:35:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Preserved Spitfire on CL in SF
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090528203756.035146d8@pop.napanet.net>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090528203756.035146d8@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <C6A84C2BCE6E4D6D999D0B018A8A3753@joepentiumnew>

I wonder if the "5-speed overdrive" is a typo.

JOe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of don
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 8:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Preserved Spitfire on CL in SF

Unusually nice old Spitfire.  Not many left that are preserved in this 
condition . . .

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/1193601555.html




____________________________________


Don Scott
Calistoga CA USA
1962 MGA Mk II
2001 Miata BRG
1973 MGB GT
1962 TR4 (seeking) 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat May 23 21:16:25 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 23:16:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] test
Message-ID: <64341C4A3ED04E6FBF94CC252ECF0BA0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>


From cak at dimebank.com  Fri May 29 12:09:31 2009
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 11:09:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring
Message-ID: <200905291809.n4TI9Vbd025107@moose.dimebank.com>

British Wiring (www.britishwiring.com) will sell you an original
style fusebox. They also have boxes for blade fuses, which are
cheaper and easier to find the Lucas glass fuses - but the smallest
one has four circuits rather than two. That's not entirely a bad thing.

In re your other questions ... if you don't have a schematic for your
car, please get one and learn to read it! It will provide much
more reliable and timely answers than questions to this list :-)
The workshop manual schematics are excellent.

Best,
chris

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Fri May 29 12:12:27 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 11:12:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Preserved Spitfire on CL in SF
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0905291112270.843@hymn34.u.washington.edu>

Yeah, that was a gorgeous car.  A '67 Mk II, black on black with black plates and overdrive, looked really clean, for $4800.  Must have sold instantly, because the ad is already gone.  Anybody on this list pick it up?
-Nick
'62-ish TR4

>Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 20:42:20 -0700
>From: don <don at napanet.net>
>
>Unusually nice old Spitfire.  Not many left that are preserved in this
>condition . . .
>
>http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/1193601555.html

From jmitch at snet.net  Fri May 29 15:25:37 2009
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 17:25:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Crossland oil filter
Message-ID: <4A2052D1.50706@snet.net>

   I installed a new Crossland canister type oil filter and I'm not sure 
I have it in right.  One side is wide open and the other has a hole the 
size of the center bolt.  I put the more closed side toward the block.  
Is this correct?  Thanks,  John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri May 29 16:24:31 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:24:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <662105274.15391101243635485010.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hello, everyone.

I have about 25,000 miles on my TR3A's Facet electric fuel pump.B  Thanks to
the Archives here, I was able to replace it from an aircraft company for
$39.95.B  That'sB about half the price I could find elsewhere. I bought a
second one for a spare.

Question, though.B  It doesn't seem that 25k miles, or even 50k miles for that
matter, are enough to get out of a fuel pump.B Then again, it's a cheap,
compact little pump that is reliable until, well, until it quits.

Hmmmm.B What's wrong with that statement?

Any new alternatives out there for electric fuel pumps for up to 4#'s of
pressure that are cheap yet reliable?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri May 29 16:40:41 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 18:40:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.west
	chester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <662105274.15391101243635485010.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <xagU1b00D5Bccag05agUlv.@charter.net>

At 06:24 PM 5/29/2009, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

>Question, though.B  It doesn't seem that 25k miles, or even 50k miles for that
>matter, are enough to get out of a fuel pump.

Did you install the Facet filter ahead of the pump, and change it regularly?


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri May 29 16:48:54 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:48:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <xagU1b00D5Bccag05agUlv.@charter.net>
Message-ID: <649360440.15399971243637334156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Thanks, Jeff.B That's interesting.B Installation instructions don't say
anything about putting a fuel filter in.B 



In this case, I'm not sure that's the culprit anyway. I have a new tank and
pretty clean gas.



Terry




>Did you install the Facet filter ahead of the pump, and change it regularly?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri May 29 16:58:25 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 15:58:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <662105274.15391101243635485010.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <52CEBF29E4904847932A67AE5282BABF@jdnet.deere.com>

> Question, though.B  It doesn't seem that 25k miles, or even 50k miles for
> that
> matter, are enough to get out of a fuel pump.

I've seen a comment somewhere that indicates some of the older Facet pumps
were not compatible with ethanol.  Maybe it was on the AS site?

At any rate, I don't know of a better pump that doesn't require an external
regulator (and cost more).  I believe the Facet design has also changed in
the last decade or two, to use a more reliable transistor.

-- Randall 

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri May 29 18:20:34 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 17:20:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wildcat -- eBay links for a slow afternoon
Message-ID: <7bb181af0905291720l43a4ef31lc73a3b462f9780ee@mail.gmail.com>

There is a built up TR3 model that has been on eBay forever, showing up in
my searches from time to time.  I always thought it was put together by some
disturbed child who probably went on to become a serial killer or perhaps a
congressman:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-TRIUMPH-Built-Painted-MODEL_W0QQitemZ190083339734QQihZ009QQcategoryZ2585QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

Turns out I was quite mistaken as this was actually a kit offered by Aurora:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Aurora-Triumph-Wildcat-TR3-Roadster-Model_W0QQitemZ300317298479QQihZ020QQcategoryZ2585QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

What were they thinking?  This must have been the low water mark for respect
for the TR3.

Still, it's a Triumph model that I do not have in my collection.

Geo

From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri May 29 18:40:30 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 19:40:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <662105274.15391101243635485010.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <354a1780905291740n67f857a5qcd6df76d523e8fc6@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 5:24 PM, <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:


> Any new alternatives out there for electric fuel pumps for up to 4#'s of
> pressure that are cheap yet reliable?



FWIW, I have had the same Facet in my TR6 since 1995. I also carry a spare,
but I haven't needed it yet. Before I went to the Facet, I used interrupter
style electric fuel pumps. The diaphragms in those pumps did not get along
with the oxygenated fuels that were available. The Facet, both the one in my
car and the spare, claim to be compatible with all fuels.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri May 29 19:17:48 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 18:17:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wildcat -- eBay links for a slow afternoon
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0905291720l43a4ef31lc73a3b462f9780ee@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7bb181af0905291720l43a4ef31lc73a3b462f9780ee@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <197D4844F3B04CE782959A194FE23577@joepentiumnew>

Is there no end to the crap that some people try to enload on EBAY?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 5:21 PM
To: TR List
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wildcat -- eBay links for a slow afternoon

There is a built up TR3 model that has been on eBay forever, showing up in
my searches from time to time.  I always thought it was put together by some
disturbed child who probably went on to become a serial killer or perhaps a
congressman:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-TRIUMPH-Built-Painted-MODEL_W0QQitemZ19008333973
4QQihZ009QQcategoryZ2585QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638
Q2em118Q2el1247

Turns out I was quite mistaken as this was actually a kit offered by Aurora:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Aurora-Triumph-Wildcat-TR3-Roadster-Model_W0QQit
emZ300317298479QQihZ020QQcategoryZ2585QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

What were they thinking?  This must have been the low water mark for respect
for the TR3.

Still, it's a Triumph model that I do not have in my collection.

Geo
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri May 29 20:12:22 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:12:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <649360440.15399971243637334156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westc
	hester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <xagU1b00D5Bccag05agUlv.@charter.net>
	<649360440.15399971243637334156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <xeC21b00Y5Bccag05eC2yE.@charter.net>

At 06:48 PM 5/29/2009, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

>Thanks, Jeff. That's interesting. Installation instructions don't 
>say anything about putting a fuel filter in.

I bought my 40105 from Aircraft 
Spruce...  <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php>

The instructions that came with the pump mention that a #479735 
filter is required...I knew to order that when I got the pump, but I 
can't remember how I knew.  I recall either on the ordering page, or 
somewhere in the fine print, that the warranty would be void if you 
didn't put in their filter.

Could be a piece of grit got caught in there?  I don't know how 
susceptible they are to that kind of stuff.  Mine is in-line, but not 
operating as a rule.  So far, the filter hasn't clogged that I can tell.

Cheers,
Jeff

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat May 30 07:20:31 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 13:20:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <xeC21b00Y5Bccag05eC2yE.@charter.net>
Message-ID: <1747094407.15512071243689631931.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>The instructions that came with the pump mention that a #479735
>filter is required...I knew to order that when I got the pump, but I
>can't remember how I knew. B I recall either on the ordering page, or
>somewhere in the fine print, that the warranty would be void if you
>didn't put in their filter.


Jeff, you are absolutely right.B I checked my instructions again, and there it
is.B Guess I need to get me one of them doodads!



Thanks, Jeff.



BTW, Aircraft Spruce is where I got mine too.



Terry

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 30 07:31:28 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 06:31:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1747094407.15512071243689631931.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090530133127972.XTKN15569@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> >The instructions that came with the pump mention that a 
> #479735 filter 
> >is required...I knew to order that when I got the pump, 

There is a suitable filter available at any FLAPS.  I don't know the
application offhand, but it's a common Ford part with NPT threads on one end
and a hose barb on the other.

Since it is a paper element filter, it should be replaced periodically.
Otherwise, over time, the paper swells and restricts fuel flow.

Randall

From rjones at wfeca.net  Sat May 30 09:27:54 2009
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Bob Jones)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 10:27:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem
Message-ID: <804801411D4A48B6B632E766B92DE147@BobPC>

Folks I have an electrical problem and would appreciate some advice.

It is in the driving light-instrument light circuit.  When I turn my driving 
lights on, the fuse(or the fuse holders for that circuit) get very hot and 
then the fuse blows if you leave it on long enough.  I have disconnected all 
of the driving lights but it still does it.  The instrument lights don't 
seem to be getting hot.  I changed out the light switch and it didn't make 
any difference.

Any ideas?

Bob 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat May 30 09:38:48 2009
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 11:38:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
References: <20090530133127972.XTKN15569@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <027401c9e13c$baaf5570$6401a8c0@STATION6>

AutoZone carries a similar filter that matches up nicely with the facet.
Alex

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 9:31 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump


>> >The instructions that came with the pump mention that a
>> #479735 filter
>> >is required...I knew to order that when I got the pump,
>
> There is a suitable filter available at any FLAPS.  I don't know the
> application offhand, but it's a common Ford part with NPT threads on one 
> end
> and a hose barb on the other.
>
> Since it is a paper element filter, it should be replaced periodically.
> Otherwise, over time, the paper swells and restricts fuel flow.
>
> Randall

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat May 30 09:40:47 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 09:40:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] test
Message-ID: <4A21537F.6090305@tscusa.org>

Test ping on option change

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat May 30 10:54:51 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 09:54:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <804801411D4A48B6B632E766B92DE147@BobPC>
References: <804801411D4A48B6B632E766B92DE147@BobPC>
Message-ID: <1C8C6C83BD834EE2AECAD766729C02CF@joepentiumnew>

Sounds like there is a short to ground somewhere in the circuit.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Jones
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 8:28 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem

Folks I have an electrical problem and would appreciate some advice.

It is in the driving light-instrument light circuit.  When I turn my driving

lights on, the fuse(or the fuse holders for that circuit) get very hot and 
then the fuse blows if you leave it on long enough.  I have disconnected all

of the driving lights but it still does it.  The instrument lights don't 
seem to be getting hot.  I changed out the light switch and it didn't make 
any difference.

Any ideas?

Bob 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

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From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Sat May 30 11:02:14 2009
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 13:02:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <662105274.15391101243635485010.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <COL119-W60F198AD92CE4D987FE826A54E0@phx.gbl>

> I have about 25,000 miles on my TR3A's Facet electric fuel pump.B Thanks to
> the Archives here, I was able to replace it from an aircraft company for
> $39.95.B That'sB about half the price I could find elsewhere.



A rare example of an aircraft part that is cheaper than an auto part.



John H.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat May 30 11:08:56 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 13:08:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1747094407.15512071243689631931.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <xeC21b00Y5Bccag05eC2yE.@charter.net>
	<1747094407.15512071243689631931.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W6D4947CBCA62231743B43BA4E0@phx.gbl>

Hmmmm, those look just like the elcheapo ones I purchased at autozone a few
years ago. Are the Facets different or is it just a different sticker?  I am
getting ready to buy a spare for Evelyn's TR8 to take to TRA just in case and
I'll order a Facet if it's better.

Marty

> Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 13:20:31 +0000
> From: terryrs at comcast.net
> To: fishplate at charter.net
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
>
> >The instructions that came with the pump mention that a #479735
> >filter is required...I knew to order that when I got the pump, but I
> >can't remember how I knew. B I recall either on the ordering page, or
> >somewhere in the fine print, that the warranty would be void if you
> >didn't put in their filter.
>
>
> Jeff, you are absolutely right.B I checked my instructions again, and there
it
> is.B Guess I need to get me one of them doodads!
>
>
>
> Thanks, Jeff.
>
>
>
> BTW, Aircraft Spruce is where I got mine too.
>
>
>
> Terry
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com
>
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From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat May 30 12:45:31 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 14:45:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem
References: <804801411D4A48B6B632E766B92DE147@BobPC>
Message-ID: <D306764E2D2E444EB874EF70394033E2@Alan>

You don't say what kind of car it is.
I recently was blowing fuses to my running lights.
The problem was I had pinched the wire for the console lights when I 
reinstalled the console, in my TR6.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 11:27 AM
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem


> Folks I have an electrical problem and would appreciate some advice.
>
> It is in the driving light-instrument light circuit.  When I turn my 
> driving lights on, the fuse(or the fuse holders for that circuit) get very 
> hot and then the fuse blows if you leave it on long enough.  I have 
> disconnected all of the driving lights but it still does it.  The 
> instrument lights don't seem to be getting hot.  I changed out the light 
> switch and it didn't make any difference.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Bob _______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 30 15:11:33 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 14:11:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W6D4947CBCA62231743B43BA4E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090530211135730.UBCF5991@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Hmmmm, those look just like the elcheapo ones I purchased at 
> autozone a few years ago. Are the Facets different or is it 
> just a different sticker?  

NO idea if they are really better or not.  But I picked up one of the clones
on eBay a few years ago, that looked identical in the photo.  Seen up close,
the build quality appears significantly worse than a genuine Facet.

But since it was only a backup spare anyway, I've not tried it beyond a
simple brief bench test.

Purolator of course now belongs to the same parent as Facet, so Purolator
pumps ARE the same thing.
http://www.facet-purolator.com/index.php

Randall

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Sat May 30 16:40:08 2009
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 18:40:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spit: 2 dumb discoveries, 1 to go?
Message-ID: <web-47856519@mail.presby.edu>

It has taken me 21 years to find the reason that I have 
never been able to put more than 7 gallons of gas in my 
Spitfire's tank.  I had imagined all kinds of things that 
might be in the tank taking up space, but I never thought 
it might just be 3 gallons of gas.  The take up fuel pipe 
was 2 inches above bottom (duh)!

Another problem that has plagued me for a couple of years 
is periodic engine dying; instantaneous with no warning 
when it happens.  It always seemed that fiddling with the 
electronic ignition amplifier module eventually got it 
running, and I spent all kinds of time trying to make sure 
it stayed properly grounded.  Turns out that the (nearby) 
wire through the firewall to the anti-run-on valve was 
rubbed bare and sometimes grounding out.

Now for the problem where I haven't yet had the "duh, oh 
sh_t" moment.  I need help.  I put in rebuilt brake 
calipers a couple of years ago along with new flexible 
hoses.  Car has since pulled to the right UNTIL the brakes 
are applied; dragging I figured.  Measured rotor runout 
with dial gauge, but it wasn't excessive.  Bled lines 
again with EZ-bleed but no change.  Decided to take 
calipers off the wheels but leave them attached 
hydraulically for a little drive to see if the pulling 
persisted.  I put blocks of wood between the pistons on 
the calipers and wired the units to the frame so they 
wouldn't fall out.  But one of the blocks did fall out and 
I blew a piston all the way out while sitting in the 
garage.  The piston was still sitting in the caliper, but 
brake fluid was everywhere.  So I put it back and rebled 
the lines.  At that point the brake pedal would go to the 
floor with no resistance.  Did the bleeding again.  Same 
problem.  There was no leaking of fluid at any of the 4 
wheels.  So I got out a new master cylinder seal kit and 
put in the seals.  Everything seemed fine on the bench. 
 Installed the mc, filled it (did not bench bleed it) and 
bled the brakes with my wife pushing the pedal.  It took 
forever.  Afterward, no pedal resistance.  Rebled with the 
EZ-bleed, but still no resistance.  There is no leaking. 
 Adjusted REAR brakes, but no change.  The pressure 
differential warning switch is working as it should I 
think.  Despite blowing out a piston earlier, the brake 
light comes on only at startup and goes off after that. 
 That means both front and back systems should be okay, 
right?  I am at a total loss now and frustrated beyond 
belief.  I WANTED TO BE ON THE ROAD BY NOW!  At this 
point, I'd be happy to have brakes that drag again.  Does 
anybody have any ideas?

Thanks,

Tim
1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6

From llst at shaw.ca  Sat May 30 16:48:07 2009
From: llst at shaw.ca (LT)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 15:48:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 distributor orientation
Message-ID: <4A21B7A7.1090409@shaw.ca>

Thanks Randall, Allen and Michael for the ideas on the 180 out of sync distributor

It was me reassembling the cam in the wrong orientation.

Put everything together and was ready to try starting the car when a pressure test on the cooling system revealed water coming out of the # 8 cylinder head bolt opening.

I will start a new thread on this one.

Larry

From llst at shaw.ca  Sat May 30 17:30:35 2009
From: llst at shaw.ca (LT)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 16:30:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 engine  water from # 8 head bolt opening
Message-ID: <4A21C19B.60501@shaw.ca>

Removed and replaced the head gasket from the engine as I was 
experiencing white fog from the car that I had purchased last year.
Suspected it was #1 cylinder as I had seen some steam come out when I 
pulled the plug.

Finished the assembly today and while doing a pressure test on the 
cooling system noticed that water was seeping out from between the 
cylinder head nut/washer and the top of the cylinder head on the #8 bolt 
(front left).

I had reinstalled the lock washers that the previous rebuild had used 
even though I had read that one should only use flat washers. (many 
articles indicate a lock washer works as well as a flat washer so ???)

Decided to torque down the head a bit more to 120 # but this resulted in 
the #8 head bolt thread stripping at the nut. (A bit of relief when I 
pulled the bolt out)

I had used copper coat spray on the head gasket; at least four dressings 
of it.

Could not see any out of place water marks on the old gasket.

Anybody have any thoughts on this one?

Larry

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat May 30 19:05:43 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 21:05:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spit: 2 dumb discoveries, 1 to go?
Message-ID: <4A219FA7.22628.1989342B@localhost>

I sent this before but it probably got stopped by the size filter.  
So here is part one:

On 30 May 2009 at 18:40, Tim Gaines wrote:

> ...Car has since pulled to the right UNTIL the brakes 
> are applied; dragging I figured... Bled lines 
> again with EZ-bleed but no change.

At first glance it doesn't sound like brakes, but do keep reading!  
In the meantime, is your front suspension okay?  And the rear too?

> Decided to take calipers off the wheels but leave them attached 
> hydraulically for a little drive to see if the pulling persisted.

Wow.  I've done some dumb things in my life but I don't think I've 
ever intentionally driven with the brakes detached.  Not that I'm 
passing judgment or anything, mind you...

> ... So I put it back and rebled the lines.  At that point the
> brake pedal would go to the floor with no resistance... There
> was no leaking of fluid at any of the 4 wheels.

Are you SURE there is no leaking?  And the fluif level in the MC is 
not going down?  Then your MC isn't generating any pressure in the 
line, or you still have so much air in the line that compressing the 
air offers no change in how it feels.

When you bleed the brakes, do you see fluif come out??  On all four 
wheels?
-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat May 30 19:05:43 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 21:05:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spit: 2 dumb discoveries, 1 to go?
Message-ID: <4A219FA7.24417.198933BE@localhost>

And here is part two:

> So I got out a new master cylinder seal kit and put in the seals.
> ...Installed the mc, filled it (did not bench bleed it) and bled
> the brakes with my wife pushing the pedal.  It took forever.

That just ain't right.  It shouldn't take forever.  It shouldn't take
long at all.  Are you really getting fluif out of each wheel's SC?  
If you are sure the system has fluif instead of air, then your MC 
isn't sealing, isn't generating any pressure.  Jack up one wheel (at 
least) and have someone or a length of wood depress the brake pedal.  

Does the jacked-up wheel turn at all?  Are you sure you don't have a 
leak?  Maybe a hose is leaking and squirting fluif where you can't 
see it?


> Despite blowing out a piston earlier, the brake light comes on
> only at startup and goes off after that.

I would have thought the brake light *should* have come on.

> That means both front and back systems should be okay, right?

No.  If one system (i.e front or rear) lost pressure and the other 
didn't, the PWDA should have come on.  A stuck PDWA piston or a 
disconnected wire will make the warning non-functional.  The light 
comes on at start-up only because it also comes on with the oil 
pressure warning light.  That simply proves that the bulb is okay, 
not that the warning system is functioning.

I'm starting to get an idea...  When you bleed the brakes, do you see
fluif coming out of the nipple on each wheel?  You may have one or 
more flexible hoses with a tear inside that is preventing fluif from 
moving.  It could have been keeping the pressure on for a wheel or 
two, which would have explained the pulling.  (I wonder how easily 
the car rolled when the brakes weren't applied.  I bet it didn't roll
easily.)  Now that you are trying to re-bleed the system out of 
necessity, the same problem(s) could keep fluif from moving into the 
system, i.e. keep air from moving out of it.  You step on the pedal 
but nothing in the system moves.  So the air remains.  It is hard to 
imagine that both front and rear systems developed a problem like 
this together, but coincidences do occur except in TV cop shows.  Or 
instead of the flexible hoses you have have gummed up metal lines 
such that both front and rear are jammed.

Re-bleed the system and check that fluif actually comes out.  If you 
see fluif, then the problem is that the MC is still leaking 
internally, perhaps both front and rear.  If you don't see fluif, 
disconnect the flexible hose from the metal line at each wheel (one 
at a time, of course).  Have your wife step on the brake pedal 
several times (not so much that it will empty the MC) while you watch
the free end.  If the problem was inside a flexible hose you should 
now see fluif come out.  Perhaps this will blow out any obstruction.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 30 20:01:04 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 19:01:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 engine  water from # 8 head bolt opening
In-Reply-To: <4A21C19B.60501@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <20090531020103921.LLTA15569@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Anybody have any thoughts on this one?

Did you check the surface of the head & block for flatness?  If so, it
sounds like a cracked head to me.

However, now that they've been overtorqued, I'd also inspect all the studs
for thread distortion.  Clean the threads then spin a new hardware store nut
down them.  If it binds about 2/3 of the way down, discard that stud.

I'd also pitch the lockwashers, and find the proper hardened flat washers
(not hardware store stuff).  The lock washers will both screw up the torque
reading, and damage the surface of the head.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat May 30 20:19:44 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 19:19:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spit: 2 dumb discoveries, 1 to go?
In-Reply-To: <web-47856519@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <20090531021944254.LTKN15569@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Despite blowing out a piston earlier, the brake light comes 
> on only at startup and goes off after that. 

IMO that means the PDWA is not working, in addition to your other problems.
The shuttle should have gone to one extreme when you blow out a caliper
piston, and then stayed there.  While it is possible to move it back to
center by carefully bleeding just a bit of fluid from the other side while
both sides are under pressure, it's most unlikely IMO that you would have
done that by accident.  Normally you have to remove the switch and
mechanically push the shuttle back to center after an 'incident'; and the
light stays permanently on until you do that (or disconnect it).

> Does anybody have any ideas?

All I can make out is that you must still have a big lump of air in the
system, possibly in the MC itself.  I would start by bleeding right at the
MC fitting : Have your wife depress and hold the brake pedal while you
loosen and tighten the fitting; then release the pedal and try again.
Continue this until you get no more bubbles.  Then bleed each wheel using
the same method (pedal down first, then open valve, then close valve, then
release pedal).

IMO the pulling probably indicated something wrong in the suspension, rather
than the brakes.  If a brake was dragging that badly, you should be able to
tell easily by trying to turn the wheel with it jacked up.  It takes a bunch
of drag to introduce much pull, if the suspension is in good shape.
However, a bad bushing or whatever can cause the alignment (either front or
rear) to change significantly when the brakes are applied.

On my TR3A with the horrible pull, it turned out that one of the suspension
mounting points was pulled out of the frame.  Two different alignment shops
failed to notice that ...

Randall

From ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com  Sun May 31 08:03:51 2009
From: ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com (Ralph Steinberg)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 10:03:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun
Message-ID: <006801c9e1f8$a0a337c0$e1e9a740$@com>

It is the last day of May, tomorrow is the last day you can post your entry
to the PVGPA Historic races at BeaveRun and still get the discount! In
today's world it is probably the best deal in Vintage Racing! If you opt for
the full 3 day package you will get more driving time than you may have
tires for! We have all sorts of things planned from our included trackside
reception on Friday to the optional race dinner on Saturday. On Friday the
kart track will be open and we are working on having that open all weekend.
If we can entice enough mini's to come out and play we have a separate race
for them. Since we offer full refunds there is no reason not to send in your
check today. (remember it is made out to PVGPA and so a portion of it is tax
deductable - how much is between you, your accountant and God) OUR REFUND
POLICY IS THUS - IF YOU DO NOT PUT A WHEEL ON THE TRACK ON Friday OR
SATURDAY YOU GET YOUR ENTIRE REFUND. IF YOU PACK UP FRIDAY NIGHT AND GO DO
NOT PARTICIPATE IN ANY MORE ACTIVITIES WE WILL REFUND THE RACE WEEKEND
PORTION - IF YOU WANT TO HANG AROUND FOR THE WEEKEND BUT YOUR CAR HAS DIED
BEFORE THE FIRST SESSION ON SATURDAY WE WILL REFUND JUST YOUR ENTRY FEE.


 

 We are planning a big Trans-Am race so we really want to see all of the
classic sedans out there. At this particular race we have a spot for a
number of cars that are not normally seen at VRG events. One that comes to
mind is air cooled Super VEE.

 Great racing, great fun, and great charities that your entry fees are going
to. A perfect summer weekend!

 

 For more information forms, links, etc please go to www.cloverleaf-auto.com
and click the vintage racing link - click the BeaveRun link next and you
should find all you need there or a link to where ever you may want to go -
VRG, PVGPA, etc

 

 Thanks and I expect to see you there

Ralph Steinberg

 PVGPA Director of Competition BeaveRun Historics

From rjones at wfeca.net  Sun May 31 10:48:26 2009
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Bob Jones)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 11:48:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <804801411D4A48B6B632E766B92DE147@BobPC>
References: <804801411D4A48B6B632E766B92DE147@BobPC>
Message-ID: <A1D0D2FC9C344F46854A26B8D4EF1CEA@BobPC>

Update and Request for Ideas:
The car is a 1974 TR6.  I first disconnected the rear wiring harness to see 
if the problem was in that part of the circuit.  Fuse posts still get hot. 
Then I disconnected the front driving lights.  No change.  That left only 
the instrument panel lights on the circuit.  Partially removed the dash and 
disconnected all panel lights.  At this point I don't believe there is 
supposed to be any draw on the entire circuit.  With the light switched 
turned on to driving light position or headlight position, posts are still 
getting hot.  I have examined the harness on both sides of the post and 
cannot see any pinched wires.  I have not removed the wrapping tape yet as 
that is such a job.  Any ideas?  Should the circuit still be drawing power 
with all the lights in the circuit disconnected?

Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: 05/30/2009 10:27 AM
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem


> Folks I have an electrical problem and would appreciate some advice.
>
> It is in the driving light-instrument light circuit.  When I turn my 
> driving lights on, the fuse(or the fuse holders for that circuit) get very 
> hot and then the fuse blows if you leave it on long enough.  I have 
> disconnected all of the driving lights but it still does it.  The 
> instrument lights don't seem to be getting hot.  I changed out the light 
> switch and it didn't make any difference.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Bob _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rjones at wfeca.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 31 11:05:28 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 10:05:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <A1D0D2FC9C344F46854A26B8D4EF1CEA@BobPC>
Message-ID: <20090531170531405.IBPT5991@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

Bob,

To me, "driving" lights are auxiliary add-ons.  I think you must be talking
about "head" lights.

No, there should be no draw, certainly not enough to get the fuse hot, with
all the lights disconnected.  You must have a short somewhere.  As already
mentioned, the dash harness wires can easily get pinched as they run to many
places (and I believe in some cases aren't even used).  Also, I think the
front marker lights are on that circuit as well, so the short might be in
the wires to them or even inside the lamp.

One trick that might be helpful : a handheld magnetic compass should deflect
when it comes close to a wire carrying DC current, as the wire generates a
tiny magnetic field.  Also, if you let it sit with current flowing for
awhile, you may be able to feel the warm wire.  (But not long enough to
significantly overheat the fuse block and/or blow the fuse, of course.)

Randall

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Sun May 31 11:59:50 2009
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 13:59:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spit: 3 dumb discoveries
In-Reply-To: <web-47856519@mail.presby.edu>
References: <web-47856519@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <web-47871928@mail.presby.edu>

Thanks for the good suggestions on my brake problems.  I 
had the "duh" experience while thinking about some of the 
possibilities mentioned by listers late last night.  I 
just tried it out, and now I have good hard pedal 
pressure.  This one really has me kicking myself, and I'm 
embarrassed to confess my stupidity.  I had put the 
caliper assemblies on their sides on the frame and then 
tried to bleed them in that position.  It never dawned on 
me that I couldn't accomplish that without having the 
nipple at the highest point, EVEN THOUGH I KNOW THAT! 
 Maybe senility is here for me.  The bleeding process took 
5 minutes after remounting the calipers.

I still have to deal with the car pulling, but I'm 
thinking that may not be brakes after getting some advice 
from a couple on the list.  And then there is the PDWA 
which should have closed off the front lines when I lost 
pressure there, so I'm not out of the woods yet.

Thanks again,
Tim

On Sat, 30 May 2009 18:40:08 -0400
  "Tim Gaines" <mtgaines at mail.presby.edu> wrote:

> Now for the problem where I haven't yet had the "duh, oh 
>sh_t" moment.  I need help.  I put in rebuilt brake 
>calipers a couple of years ago along with new flexible 
>hoses.  Car has since pulled to the right UNTIL the 
>brakes are applied; dragging I figured.  Measured rotor 
>runout with dial gauge, but it wasn't excessive.  Bled 
>lines again with EZ-bleed but no change.  Decided to take 
>calipers off the wheels but leave them attached 
>hydraulically for a little drive to see if the pulling 
>persisted.  I put blocks of wood between the pistons on 
>the calipers and wired the units to the frame so they 
>wouldn't fall out.  But one of the blocks did fall out 
>and I blew a piston all the way out while sitting in the 
>garage.  The piston was still sitting in the caliper, but 
>brake fluid was everywhere.  So I put it back and rebled 
>the lines.  At that point the brake pedal would go to the 
>floor with no resistance.  Did the bleeding again.  Same 
>problem.  There was no leaking of fluid at any of the 4 
>wheels.  So I got out a new master cylinder seal kit and 
>put in the seals.  Everything seemed fine on the bench. 
>Installed the mc, filled it (did not bench bleed it) and 
> bled the brakes with my wife pushing the pedal.  It took 
>forever.  Afterward, no pedal resistance.  Rebled with 
>the EZ-bleed, but still no resistance.  There is no 
>leaking. Adjusted REAR brakes, but no change.  The 
>pressure 
> differential warning switch is working as it should I 
>think.  Despite blowing out a piston earlier, the brake 
>light comes on only at startup and goes off after that. 
>That means both front and back systems should be okay, 
> right?  I am at a total loss now and frustrated beyond 
>belief.  I WANTED TO BE ON THE ROAD BY NOW!  At this 
>point, I'd be happy to have brakes that drag again.  Does 
>anybody have any ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> 1980 Spitfire
> 1974 TR6

From tom.wags at gmail.com  Sun May 31 14:42:52 2009
From: tom.wags at gmail.com (Tom Wagner)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 15:42:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Problems
Message-ID: <4e74fbc30905311342m3ed526c7kbfb8f01ab2b3db1e@mail.gmail.com>

The List:

I have a 72 TR6 that recently had problems with the PDWA Switch where
by I needed to remove it and in doing so also need to take out the
lines from the master cylinder.

After putting it all back together with new silicone fluid and speed
bleeders in the calipers and drums,  I am having problems getting it
to bleed.  The furthest rear cylinder(Right Rear) I can get fluid to
come out just fine, but not on the other three.  In further
investigation, every time my assistant(wife) presses the pedal to get
the fluid down the line, I notice that there are air bubbles coming
out of the reservoir for the front part of the system.

I have 2 chambers in the master cylinder(in front of the Servo), as
one goes to the rear and one goes to the front brakes.

So my question is with both front bleeders open is there a way to
force the fluid down the line to force all the air out of the lines,
or will it have an effect on the rear ones if I did that???

Thanks for the help in advance.

-- 
Tom Wagner
72 TR 6
67 MGB
Gravette, AR 72736

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun May 31 14:45:50 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 14:45:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <A1D0D2FC9C344F46854A26B8D4EF1CEA@BobPC>
References: <804801411D4A48B6B632E766B92DE147@BobPC>
	<A1D0D2FC9C344F46854A26B8D4EF1CEA@BobPC>
Message-ID: <5A158144E35844BBA24DD7AE4710B320@bboffice>

Bob,
How about starting at the fuse block and working out?  Sure does sound like
a pinched wire somewhere.
Bill  

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Jones
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 10:48 AM
To: Bob Jones; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Electrical problem

Update and Request for Ideas:
The car is a 1974 TR6.  I first disconnected the rear wiring harness to see
if the problem was in that part of the circuit.  Fuse posts still get hot. 
Then I disconnected the front driving lights.  No change.  That left only
the instrument panel lights on the circuit.  Partially removed the dash and
disconnected all panel lights.  At this point I don't believe there is
supposed to be any draw on the entire circuit.  With the light switched
turned on to driving light position or headlight position, posts are still
getting hot.  I have examined the harness on both sides of the post and
cannot see any pinched wires.  I have not removed the wrapping tape yet as
that is such a job.  Any ideas?  Should the circuit still be drawing power
with all the lights in the circuit disconnected?

Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Jones" <rjones at wfeca.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: 05/30/2009 10:27 AM
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem


> Folks I have an electrical problem and would appreciate some advice.
>
> It is in the driving light-instrument light circuit.  When I turn my 
> driving lights on, the fuse(or the fuse holders for that circuit) get very

> hot and then the fuse blows if you leave it on long enough.  I have 
> disconnected all of the driving lights but it still does it.  The 
> instrument lights don't seem to be getting hot.  I changed out the light 
> switch and it didn't make any difference.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Bob _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rjones at wfeca.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 31 16:06:28 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 15:06:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spit: 3 dumb discoveries
In-Reply-To: <web-47871928@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <20090531220640465.OYKE5991@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> And then there is the PDWA which should 
> have closed off the front lines when I lost pressure there, 

Actually, no.  It doesn't try to close off anything; only light the light.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 31 16:18:42 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 15:18:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Problems
In-Reply-To: <4e74fbc30905311342m3ed526c7kbfb8f01ab2b3db1e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090531221846582.PGJK5991@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> The furthest rear 
> cylinder(Right Rear) I can get fluid to come out just fine, 
> but not on the other three.

This sounds serious; like there is a line blocked.  Both rear brakes are
supposed to be fed by the same lines, so if one has pressure, the other
should have pressure as well.

The front brakes not working might just mean you need to bleed the MC; try
loosening the fitting to the front brakes (which as I recall is towards the
rear of the MC) and see if you can bleed some air out at that point.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun May 31 17:00:54 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 19:00:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bleeding Problems
In-Reply-To: <20090531221846582.PGJK5991@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <4e74fbc30905311342m3ed526c7kbfb8f01ab2b3db1e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A22D3E6.3953.52F16@localhost>

On 31 May 2009 at 15:18, Randall wrote:

> This sounds serious; like there is a line blocked.  Both rear brakes are
> supposed to be fed by the same lines, so if one has pressure, the other
> should have pressure as well.

Possibly a steel line got pinched?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun May 31 17:18:27 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (tony at tonydrews.com)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 18:18:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 engine  water from # 8 head bolt opening
In-Reply-To: <4A21C19B.60501@shaw.ca>
References: <4A21C19B.60501@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <20090531181827.lgeoq96ogsoskgc0@www.tonydrews.com>

Many times this is caused by a crack in the block in the stud hole.
The manifold side rear one seems most prone to that.

As Randall said, don't use lockwashers, use good hardened washers.  I
like the ARP head stud kit myself, but that's for a racing application.

- Tony Drews

Quoting LT <llst at shaw.ca>:

> Removed and replaced the head gasket from the engine as I was
> experiencing white fog from the car that I had purchased last year.
> Suspected it was #1 cylinder as I had seen some steam come out when I
> pulled the plug.
>
> Finished the assembly today and while doing a pressure test on the
> cooling system noticed that water was seeping out from between the
> cylinder head nut/washer and the top of the cylinder head on the #8
> bolt (front left).
>
> I had reinstalled the lock washers that the previous rebuild had used
> even though I had read that one should only use flat washers. (many
> articles indicate a lock washer works as well as a flat washer so ???)
>
> Decided to torque down the head a bit more to 120 # but this resulted
> in the #8 head bolt thread stripping at the nut. (A bit of relief when
> I pulled the bolt out)
>
> I had used copper coat spray on the head gasket; at least four
> dressings of it.
>
> Could not see any out of place water marks on the old gasket.
>
> Anybody have any thoughts on this one?
>
> Larry

From thebujas at comcast.net  Sun May 31 22:07:13 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 23:07:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag status as of May 31
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIMEJODGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

I've updated the TTA website with news and pictures about our build progress
and "uncle jack"'s public debut on Sunday.
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this gallant and successful effort to
recover from the catastrophic failure of only one week ago.  We could not
have done this without your help.

Tim Buja - Rockford, IL

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun May 31 22:25:12 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 04:25:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] question on top bit
Message-ID: <994170679.2209141243830312759.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

hi,

one of the metal hooks on the top of the windshield frame (the one that hooks
to the top) is missing.B B how can i replace it?

thanks in advance, guys.

rayB 

From thebujas at comcast.net  Sun May 31 22:35:46 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 23:35:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Electrical problem
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1243792803.6653.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIEEJPDGAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

Randall wrote:
> One trick that might be helpful : a handheld magnetic compass should
> deflect when it comes close to a wire carrying DC current, as the wire
> generates a tiny magnetic field.  Also, if you let it sit with current
> flowing for awhile, you may be able to feel the warm wire.  (But not
> long enough to significantly overheat the fuse block and/or blow the
> fuse, of course.)

I like to use a sealed beam headlight for finding wiring faults.  Get some
good test leads with strong clips, connect the terminals of the sealed beam
(high or low beam) across the fuse clips and look for the fault.  The light
may illuminate dimly for actual load current through lights, fan motors,
etc.  When the light comes on at full brightness, you've found the area with
the fault, and when you've isolated the faulted section of the harness, the
light will dim or go out.  The bulb filament will limit any fault current to
(approximately) 60 watts / 12 volts = 5 amps so there's no risk of blowing
fuses or damaging your wiring or fuse block during the fault finding
process.

You can also clip the high and low beam terminals together to allow higher
fault current.  This could give you up to 9 or 10 amps of fault current in
case your compass is not sensitive enough.  The reduced resistance with both
filaments in parallel will allow more load current and may allow the
flashers to flash and fan or wiper motors to turn.

Tim Buja

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun May 31 22:51:06 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 21:51:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] question on top bit
In-Reply-To: <994170679.2209141243830312759.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090601045106812.GNVL27612@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> one of the metal hooks on the top of the windshield frame 
> (the one that hooks to the top) is missing.B B how can i replace it?

Normally, they just screw in.  However, if the threads are damaged, I'm not
sure what options are available without having to disassemble the frame.  

One possibility _might_ be TRF P/N 553837, which is a Tenax peg that goes
all the way through and has a head on the other side.  But you'd have to
drill some holes mighty carefully to avoid cracking the glass, and I still
don't know if it can be installed with the glass in place.

If you find a solution, please share it.  I have one hole with stripped
threads on my project TR3.

Randall