[TR] TR4 wiring ignition

Dave1massey at cs.com Dave1massey at cs.com
Sat Mar 21 07:08:49 MST 2009


In a message dated 3/21/2009 7:52:50 AM Central Daylight Time, 
goh62agan at verizon.net writes: 
> OK , I thought I could figure this out but I should have known better.  
> How hard can it be ?  I have the wiring diagram. Just plug in the wires 
> , right?
> The problem with connecting" the" Brown/blue wire to the no. 1 terminal 
> is that there are three brown/blue wires to choose from. Which two 
> attach to the ignition and where does the third brown/blue wire go?
> The  wiring diagram I have shows one brown/blue wire coming from the 
> lighting switch and one coming from the generator control box. Where 
> does the third brown/blue wire come from and what does it connect to? 
> I'm going to have to trace all these wires aren't I? And I'm just 
> getting started here.  Yikes!  Also how do you know when a good voltage 
> stabilizer goes bad? TIA again.
> Gary O
> 
I don't have a wiring diagram in fron of me but there should be one of those 
wires on the ammeter.  Whether it is that wire or not is what I am unsure of.

The symptoms of a bad voltage stabilizer are subtle.  Many folks run for 
years with a bad one without realizing it.  What you will see is the temperature 
gauge and the fuel gauge will read about 25% high.  Another symptom is the 
readings will drop at idle and come back up at speed.  Since the fuel gauge is 
notoriously inaccurate, that is not a reliable indication but if the temp seems a 
bit high but not in the red but drops down at idle (especially with the 
lights on) you probably have a bad stabilizer.

Your next question is probably "How do I test this off of the car?"  Step 
one: identify the input and output terminals.  Step two: connect battery voltage 
to the input pin and the case.  Step three: monitor the output pin with a test 
light.  The test light should switch ON and OFF at a rate of around once a 
second.  If it stays on continuously you need a new stabilizer.

Note: The OE stabilizers are not polarity sensitive and will work on negative 
or positive ground systems.  Some of the new replacements use an electronic 
voltage regulator circuits which are polarity sensitive and will either not 
work with the wrong polarity or will sustain damage with the wrong polarity.  
They will also not work as described above.  The output is not switched on and 
off but will be a constant 10V.  If think you have one of these you will need to 
test it with a volt meter.

Dave


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