From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 1 00:05:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 23:05:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Testing the TR3 wiper motor In-Reply-To: <4CC8CD8D66B944CF8B61CE63ED2DEC0B@sniffer> Message-ID: <20090301070514.OVYR28844.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > My question is how can I run the motor for a few minutes to > be sure everything is OK. I don't seem to be able to find > the right combination of connections and the manual is no help. The motor should run continuously if you apply power between terminals 1 and 2. Terminal 2 is normally the feed from the ignition switch (green wire), while the wiper switch grounds terminal 1 to make the motor run. Applying power between terminal 2 and the motor housing (or E terminal) should make the motor run to it's parked position and stop. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 1 00:13:16 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 23:13:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 In-Reply-To: <808FEEA107E14761992BBB8F87A863FB@sniffer> Message-ID: <20090301071316.TQAZ8036.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > OK guys, how does this help me get my TR3 back on the road???? By motivating you to get off your asset and back out to the garage ! Randall From AA00727 at aol.com Sun Mar 1 00:25:02 2009 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 02:25:02 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 102/ Unfit content for this or any other list! Message-ID: Why is it always the very misnamed "Liberals" who are wishing a trip to hell for anyone with a view that differs from their own? If this gentleman, and I use the term strictly in a generic sense, is not removed from the list then please remove me! Sincerely Gary Blihovde _tartanredmgb at gmail.com_ (mailto:tartanredmgb at gmail.com) **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Mar 1 01:32:21 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 01:32:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 102/ Unfit content for this or any other list! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49AA4815.6080200@dfn.com> AA00727 at aol.com wrote: > Why is it always the very misnamed "Liberals" who are wishing a trip to hell > for anyone with a view that differs from their own? > > If this gentleman, and I use the term strictly in a generic sense, is not > removed from the list then please remove me! > > Sincerely > Gary Blihovde > > Uh, Gary, if you actually read the posts, you'd see that you have to remove yourself from the list. And, I see you're showing your immense tolerance by first demanding that someone else be removed because they've upset your delicate sensibilities. Otherwise, you'll just whine until someone else does for you what you ought to be doing yourself... i.e., removing yourself from this list. My recommendation is (strictly for your peace of mind, of course) that you immediately and forthwith unsubscribe by following the very simple instructions provided at this link, which is appended to each and every email you receive: http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs By doing so, you will be thoroughly and completely shielded from viewpoints differing from your own, thus, absolutely protecting yourself from a bitter and hostile outside world that may, on occasion, collide with your own self-importance.... Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Mar 1 07:36:56 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 09:36:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Paul Harvey Message-ID: <200903010936.56343.yellowtr@adelphia.net> All, Please don't make this list a political venting list! I left the Brit Iron Motorcycle list many years ago because over 50% of the posts were about this or that political view. If someone makes a post like the one about Mr. Harvey, and you don't agree, send the poster a reply and keep your politics to yourself and OFF this list! There are many blogs, forums, etc. where you can vent if you must. For me, I am hoping for an early spring so I can get back in the garage and make some progress on my 72 6 project. I have just about ran out of stuff I can do in the cellar! Yesterday, I started to clean my tool chest! Eventhough it is March, the temp for Monday will only reach a high of 19! Bob From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Mar 1 08:17:36 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 15:17:36 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 102/ Unfit content for this or any other list! References: <49AA4815.6080200@dfn.com> Message-ID: <2C6839D542A44306B90EBB2FB7E41224@Bevan> Oh, isn't the English language sometimes so eloquent? I do wish I'd seen the previous posts and then I'd know what has caused so much distress. Okay, perhaps not Triumph related but sometimes it's so nice to be able to move to the fringes of other issues. Jonmac > By doing so, you will be thoroughly and completely shielded from viewpoints differing from your > own, thus, absolutely protecting yourself from a bitter and hostile outside world that may, on > occasion, collide with your own self-importance.... From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Mar 1 08:29:42 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 10:29:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Paul Harvey References: <200903010936.56343.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Thanks, well said and I agree. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 9:36 AM Subject: [TR] Paul Harvey > All, > > Please don't make this list a political venting list! > > I left the Brit Iron Motorcycle list many years ago because over 50% of > the > posts were about this or that political view. > > If someone makes a post like the one about Mr. Harvey, and you don't > agree, > send the poster a reply and keep your politics to yourself and OFF this > list! > > There are many blogs, forums, etc. where you can vent if you must. > > For me, I am hoping for an early spring so I can get back in the garage > and > make some progress on my 72 6 project. > > I have just about ran out of stuff I can do in the cellar! > > Yesterday, I started to clean my tool chest! > > Eventhough it is March, the temp for Monday will only reach a high of 19! > > Bob From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Mar 1 08:37:21 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 08:37:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Paul Harvey In-Reply-To: <200903010936.56343.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200903010936.56343.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <2C3EB81031E945589A32AE7844B73912@JimofficePC> I feel for you east coast guys! Yesterday it was in the low 80's and I worked on the TR250 almost all day with both garage doors open the whole time! Of course in August when it is 110 it is a different story, but we have to take advantage while we can! Regards, Jim Jim Bauder '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 7:37 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Paul Harvey All, Please don't make this list a political venting list! I left the Brit Iron Motorcycle list many years ago because over 50% of the posts were about this or that political view. If someone makes a post like the one about Mr. Harvey, and you don't agree, send the poster a reply and keep your politics to yourself and OFF this list! There are many blogs, forums, etc. where you can vent if you must. For me, I am hoping for an early spring so I can get back in the garage and make some progress on my 72 6 project. I have just about ran out of stuff I can do in the cellar! Yesterday, I started to clean my tool chest! Eventhough it is March, the temp for Monday will only reach a high of 19! Bob Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Mar 1 08:47:31 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 15:47:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Route, TR3A In-Reply-To: <200903010936.56343.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <586736035.2284031235922451810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> This having a garage thing is pretty cool.B Have been able to actually do stuff over the winter, like install the new nylon silentblocs, replace the rubber boots on the ball joints, pack the wheel bearings outer and (thank you Randall) inner, restore and install an original OD switch (thank you TeriAnn and Randall), and more.B Will be installing sealer plates to the firewall in a few weeks, so this season will be driving to work without getting sand on my pants! But next up is to pull the speedometer cable because I'd like to have the speedometer needle stop wobbling plus/minus 10 miles per hour on the road.B Two fixes come to mind.B One, pull the cable and grease the inside.B What's in there now is a light graphite that came out of a bottle in liquid form.B The other fix is to re-route the cable to reduce the angle of the bends as much as possible.B I probably won't have a problem mapping out a better route for the cable, but thought I'd check on two things with you all. 1)B Since I've had this wildly fluctuating speedometer (even after rebuild by Mo-Ma), I assume the cable has been hanging up for three years now.B Does it seem likely that the cable is buggered up inside and should be replaced, since I'm going to all the work of removing and reinstalling it (and don't want to have to repeat it).B And 2) Does anybody have a trick for routing the OD cable?B For instance, is there supposed to be a 90 degree elbow off the transmission, something like that? What a difference a roof makes in winter! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Mar 1 08:49:01 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 10:49:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge References: <230650FC9D1E481082D13EE1A075E10F@fred8kwiskhcfu> <003801c99a1d$9c7433c0$690a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: <94B336BBBCB848A68DE18ADEEB64FDE2@fred8kwiskhcfu> Thats fine for you ED, I posted that to the list as a good warning to all T/R owners that you were not dealing with Mr. Nissonger or any of his pricing ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Oot" To: "FRED E THOMAS" Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 10:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge >I just had mine rebuilt by Nissonger. Beautiful job. Looks like new. $140 >and had it back in under 2 weeks. Last I heard Mo-Ma was backed up for >months. > > I have nothing but good words for Nissonger. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "FRED E THOMAS" > To: ; "triumphs" > Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 10:38 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge > > >> Dve, go the Mo-Ma route, Nissonger sold out a few years back and retired, >> the new owners have more than doubled his and the industry pricing for >> repairs and certainly not worth the difference, best advice is stay away >> from them. >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: >> To: >> Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 8:02 AM >> Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge >> >> >>> This is now getting annoying. First my ammeter gave up on me and works >>> intermittently which indicates, to me, a bad connection in the gauge. >>> Now my >>> temp gauge suddenly stopped working. I don't think it is the gauge >>> because when >>> the temp under the dash goes over 90 degrees the gauge records it. (I >>> am in >>> Florida). Can these capillary tubes be repaired? >>> >>> David Lylis >>> 69 TR6 CC26160L >>> 60 TR3A TS74461LO >>> **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars >>> updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. >>> (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>> http://www.vtr.org >>> >>> >>> Triumphs at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >>> >>> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Mar 1 09:03:05 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 11:03:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Paul Harvey In-Reply-To: <200903010936.56343.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Boy I wish I had a cellar! I bet it's nice and warm isn't it... I remember warm. It was like it was just yesturday. Sigh..... We go to daylight savings soon. That's a start. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A (getting painted this summer come hell or high water) http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 9:37 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Paul Harvey All, Please don't make this list a political venting list! I left the Brit Iron Motorcycle list many years ago because over 50% of the posts were about this or that political view. If someone makes a post like the one about Mr. Harvey, and you don't agree, send the poster a reply and keep your politics to yourself and OFF this list! There are many blogs, forums, etc. where you can vent if you must. For me, I am hoping for an early spring so I can get back in the garage and make some progress on my 72 6 project. I have just about ran out of stuff I can do in the cellar! Yesterday, I started to clean my tool chest! Eventhough it is March, the temp for Monday will only reach a high of 19! Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as dconnitt at fuse.net http://www.team.net/archive From fishplate at charter.net Sun Mar 1 09:12:08 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 11:12:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 In-Reply-To: <808FEEA107E14761992BBB8F87A863FB@sniffer> References: <49AA0358.3080500@greenheart.com> <808FEEA107E14761992BBB8F87A863FB@sniffer> Message-ID: <20090301161226.CPGJ21265.mta11.charter.net@imp10> At 12:22 AM 3/1/2009, wbeech wrote: >OK guys, how does this help me get my TR3 back on the road???? An oil change with Vitriol 20-50? From cm.sherman at verizon.net Sun Mar 1 09:31:00 2009 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 11:31:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph in NYTimes... Mercury De Soto The Winner? Message-ID: <74E3B4BD2B5746EFA41A48DFD1F5C6E8@DellXPS720> Well go figure... despite a Call-to-Action to over 5,000 Triumph enthusiasts (VTR, 6-pack and ITTR), apparently furniture maker Steve Heller's custom 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis sedan was voted Car of the Year (1). It was built of parts from 11 donor cars with welded body panels. He received nearly 1,000 of the 6,392 total votes (2). Without sounding cynical, I am surprised considering I so many friends, family and List members claimed to vote, but if we it was to be fair it would have been regulated by someone in the insurance, banking or auto industry (LOL). Seriousily, something funny went on here, but little anybody can do... "the people have voted" - who says they have to have good taste! Anyways, sorry about the rant, and a thank you for those who did support our Marque. Corey Sherman (1) NY Times Article Winner http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/22/automobiles/collectibles/22MARQUIS.html (2) NYTimes Classics and Conversation Pieces Published: February 20, 2009 http://tinyurl.com/akru65 (3) Read the Autoblog to see reader's comments: http://tinyurl.com/c52opo From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Mar 1 10:16:20 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 12:16:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 fender beading In-Reply-To: References: <200903010936.56343.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <92CB588F0A514F28891C66E0B0500682@DCH6RFC1> List: does the TR250 have fender beading? I didn't think so, but it is listed (part #s 854-120, 854-180, etc ) on the Moss web site. Andrew Uprichard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 1 10:25:53 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 09:25:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Route, TR3A In-Reply-To: <586736035.2284031235922451810.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090301172554.MVJA20000.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > But next up is to pull the speedometer cable because I'd like > to have the speedometer needle stop wobbling plus/minus 10 > miles per hour on the road. One potential problem is if the end of the inner cable protrudes too far at the speedo end. It can push against the mechanism and cause it to bind. An easy test is to loosen the nut and take a short test drive. If that improves the 'wobble', you may need to shorten the cable a bit. Usually, there is a plastic sleeve that can be slid up the inner cable to effect the change. > Does it seem likely that the cable > is buggered up inside and should be replaced, since I'm going > to all the work of removing and reinstalling it (and don't > want to have to repeat it). Personally I would inspect it first. Slide the inner cable out, clean it, look for any bright spots, wear or delamination. But yeah, it's probably safest to just replace it and hope your new one isn't defective. > 2) Does anybody have a trick for routing the OD cable?B For > instance, is there supposed to be a 90 degree elbow off the > transmission, something like that? The factory setup did not use an angle drive. If you want to try converting, you'll also need a shorter cable to go with it. The factory cable routing did make fairly gentle curves, I'm not sure the angle drive would improve that any. It should come off the OD, go fairly straight through the handbrake boot and the hole in the floor behind the handbrake lever. I have a piece of heater hose slid over it at that point, to reduce abrasion against the edge of the hole in the floor. Then it swings out all the way against the frame rail (where I think there should be a clip), curves up the face of the firewall and crosses over the body on the ledge in front of the battery. Should be a clamp on that ledge, to hold it in place. Then the sharpest curve is to turn and go through the firewall, and straight on to the speedo head. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 1 10:27:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 09:27:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Paul Harvey In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090301172755.JFKL15930.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Thanks, well said and I agree. Ditto. Randall From wbmcleod at gmail.com Sun Mar 1 10:37:51 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (Bill McLeod) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 10:37:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR250 fender beading In-Reply-To: <92CB588F0A514F28891C66E0B0500682@DCH6RFC1> References: <200903010936.56343.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <92CB588F0A514F28891C66E0B0500682@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <49AAC7EF.2020105@gmail.com> The 250 has beading, the same as the 4's, but the 250 beading is painted the car color. Regards, Bill Andrew Uprichard wrote: > List: does the TR250 have fender beading? I didn't think so, but it is > listed (part #s 854-120, 854-180, etc ) on the Moss web site. > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Mar 1 10:54:06 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 12:54:06 EST Subject: [TR] TR250 fender beading Message-ID: In a message dated 3/1/2009 12:36:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: List: does the TR250 have fender beading? I didn't think so, but it is listed (part #s 854-120, 854-180, etc ) on the Moss web site. Yes, and it should be painted body color as original. Darrell **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004) From jmitch at snet.net Sun Mar 1 11:01:15 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 13:01:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph in NYTimes... Mercury De Soto The Winner? In-Reply-To: <74E3B4BD2B5746EFA41A48DFD1F5C6E8@DellXPS720> References: <74E3B4BD2B5746EFA41A48DFD1F5C6E8@DellXPS720> Message-ID: <49AACD6B.8090703@snet.net> I'd sell that Italia if it can't beat a DeSoto. I've got a few extra bucks I could give you:) John Mitchell Corey Sherman wrote: > Well go figure... > > despite a Call-to-Action to over 5,000 Triumph enthusiasts (VTR, 6-pack and > ITTR), apparently furniture maker Steve Heller's custom 1998 Mercury Grand > Marquis sedan was voted Car of the Year (1). > > It was built of parts from 11 donor cars with welded body panels. He > received nearly 1,000 of the 6,392 total votes (2). > > Without sounding cynical, I am surprised considering I so many friends, > family and List members claimed to vote, but if we it was to be fair it > would have been regulated by someone in the insurance, banking or auto > industry (LOL). Seriousily, something funny went on here, but little anybody > can do... "the people have voted" - who says they have to have good taste! > > Anyways, sorry about the rant, and a thank you for those who did support our > Marque. > Corey Sherman > > > > (1) NY Times Article Winner > http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/22/automobiles/collectibles/22MARQUIS.html > > > (2) NYTimes Classics and Conversation Pieces Published: February 20, 2009 > http://tinyurl.com/akru65 > > > (3) Read the Autoblog to see reader's comments: > http://tinyurl.com/c52opo > > _______________________________________________ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 1 13:04:36 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 14:04:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge References: <49A9452D.8000200@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00a901c99aa9$0b3a9930$6f03a8c0@ranteer.local> i sent them some gages a while back. after not hearing from them for a while, i called them. they really weren't interested in my business and at least sent them back no charge. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Ferguson" To: Cc: Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 8:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge > Last I heard, though I've been away for a while, Mo-Ma in Albuquerque > does a good job restoring these (including the cap tube). Others can > chime in if they know better, or have had bad experiences with them. I > haven't needed a gauge rebuild so I have no first hand experience with > these folks. And NFI. > Searching for Mo-Ma gets lots of Museum of Modern Art hits :) but I > finally found contact info... > Mo Ma Manufacturing - instrument repair > 13211 Second Street. NW > Albuquerque, NM 87102 > (505) 766-6661 > momamn at quest.net > DLylis at aol.com wrote: From banc8004 at comcast.net Sun Mar 1 13:43:47 2009 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 15:43:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph in NYTimes... Mercury De Soto The Winner? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <517963F5-FFFA-4777-84B6-72815FBE1CA6@comcast.net> Holy Crap Corey! I can't believe anyone could vote for that tat, bar him and his mother. It's a migraine on wheels. It reminds me of the fake 'monsters' that turn up now and again . While you may not have the NY Times rosette, at least you get to drive away in a very classy, pretty motor car. Brian From AA00727 at aol.com Sun Mar 1 14:42:39 2009 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 16:42:39 EST Subject: [TR] My Apologies Message-ID: In responding to what I perceived as ungracious and odious remarks about the late Mr. Harvey and the late President Reagan, which I felt were inappropriate for this forum, I find that I have only added to the discord, not to useful discourse. I'd had a very long day but that's not a good excuse. I acknowledge that my abrupt reaction and abdication of restraint was an aberration in my behavior that has resulted in my abetting the abeyance of FOT standards and I wish to abrogate my abrasive remarks. Please accept my abject apology and I hope this entire episode will be abbreviated / aborted! With your accord, I affirm that I will abstain from any further absurd, abusive and adolescent abasement. I hope we will all be accreted by our active ardor for all things Triumph, so we can avoid further acerbity and share the accumulated knowledge available here. As an addendum, I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just trying to lighten up a little. The apology is sincere and I avow that I will not allow myself to be drawn into future online altercations. (sorry, I just can't seem to stop) I have received a lot of good advice, useful information, and entertainment from a lot of really nice people on this site. I rarely contribute anything but questions as I don't have the vast knowledge of all things Triumph that so many others on this site graciously share. I have watched as some discussions here and on other sites wandered way off topic and it isn't too much of a problem as long as it stays friendly and within the bounds of common courtesy and respect. This site has always stayed "on topic" to a greater extent than many others and real enmity has been rare. I really hope it stays that way. Sincerely, Gary Blihovde **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Mar 1 14:50:54 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 16:50:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 fender beads In-Reply-To: <00a901c99aa9$0b3a9930$6f03a8c0@ranteer.local> References: <49A9452D.8000200@comcast.net> <00a901c99aa9$0b3a9930$6f03a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <34E4A709A6874509A2F0C8A6C2D21383@DCH6RFC1> Thanks for all the replies. The guy I bought the car from owned it from new and swore it was original. But no fender beading. Andrew From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Mar 1 15:17:54 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 22:17:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge In-Reply-To: <00a901c99aa9$0b3a9930$6f03a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <863822390.2422081235945874978.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Similar experience.B After an initial complete guage time frame stretched to twice as long, they informed me politely and honestly that they moved long-standing customers like professional restorers ahead of one-timers like me on the to-do list.B Eventually, they charged me over $700 and didn't even paint the needles. Your experience may vary and all that.B But I'll never use someone who doesn't value me as a customer again.B And that's the only vendor who, during a complete TR3A ground-up restoration, I would say that about.B For a newbie like me to go from a rusted out hulk to a totally restored daily driver, it can only be because of all the great business people and companies there are out there in this hobby.B >i sent them some gages a while back. B after not hearing from them for a >while, i called them. B they really weren't interested in my business and at l>east sent them back no charge. > >B Last B I heard, though I've been away for a while, Mo-Ma in Albuquerque > B > does B a B good job restoring these (including the cap tube). Others can From agraham at execulink.com Sun Mar 1 15:43:49 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 17:43:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] BRG search Message-ID: <200903012251.n21MpS06008879@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello List: Still trying to track down some colour codes for a dark BRG. Came across a photo spread of the Ken Richardson TR2 OVC 276 rally car restoration . The car is done in a great looking period dark BRG. Exactly what I am looking for. Anyone know any details about the restoration of this historic TR2? Any leads where I can track down any information on this car? Have tried various Google searches, but no luck. Thanks for any help. Angelo Graham From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 1 16:26:33 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 18:26:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] My Apologies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gary....cool.....you used about 50 "A" words and most were only used once. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of AA00727 at aol.com Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 4:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] My Apologies In responding to what I perceived as ungracious and odious remarks about the late Mr. Harvey and the late President Reagan, which I felt were inappropriate for this forum, I find that I have only added to the discord, not to useful discourse. I'd had a very long day but that's not a good excuse. I acknowledge that my abrupt reaction and abdication of restraint was an aberration in my behavior that has resulted in my abetting the abeyance of FOT standards and I wish to abrogate my abrasive remarks. Please accept my abject apology and I hope this entire episode will be abbreviated / aborted! With your accord, I affirm that I will abstain from any further absurd, abusive and adolescent abasement. I hope we will all be accreted by our active ardor for all things Triumph, so we can avoid further acerbity and share the accumulated knowledge available here. As an addendum, I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just trying to lighten up a little. The apology is sincere and I avow that I will not allow myself to be drawn into future online altercations. (sorry, I just can't seem to stop) I have received a lot of good advice, useful information, and entertainment from a lot of really nice people on this site. I rarely contribute anything but questions as I don't have the vast knowledge of all things Triumph that so many others on this site graciously share. I have watched as some discussions here and on other sites wandered way off topic and it isn't too much of a problem as long as it stays friendly and within the bounds of common courtesy and respect. This site has always stayed "on topic" to a greater extent than many others and real enmity has been rare. I really hope it stays that way. Sincerely, Gary Blihovde **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From tr3a at comcast.net Sun Mar 1 16:50:26 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 18:50:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] My Apologies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49AB1F42.8070107@comcast.net> Awesome. (Sorry, couldn't resist.) Bob Danielson wrote: Gary....cool.....you used about 50 "A" words and most were only used once. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Mar 1 17:34:51 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 19:34:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] My Apologies In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49AAE35B.7205.1C56E54B@localhost> On 1 Mar 2009 at 16:42, AA00727 at aol.com wrote: > Please accept my abject apology and I hope this entire > episode will be abbreviated / aborted! Gary, if you really want your apology to be effective you must issue a written statement. It must contain only a passive expression that perceptions can be deceiving, that you regret any unpleasantness it may have caused to your teammates and those around you, that you were young and misguided, that your cousin put you up to it, that you paid your taxes with TurboTax, and that you didn't realize it would cost so many votes. You must not say you will never do it again because that implies you did it the first time. And never lie to Congress. They don't like that. Just trying to help. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Mar 1 17:44:36 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 19:44:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] My Apologies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49AB2BF4.8090100@earthlink.net> Considering what you were responding to, it isn't you who should be apologizing. Joe AA00727 at aol.com wrote: > In responding to what I perceived as ungracious and odious remarks about the > late Mr. Harvey and the late President Reagan, which I felt were > inappropriate for this forum, I find that I have only added to the discord, not to > useful discourse. I'd had a very long day but that's not a good excuse. > > I acknowledge that my abrupt reaction and abdication of restraint was an > aberration in my behavior that has resulted in my abetting the abeyance of FOT > standards and I wish to abrogate my abrasive remarks. Please accept my abject > apology and I hope this entire episode will be abbreviated / aborted! With > your accord, I affirm that I will abstain from any further absurd, abusive and > adolescent abasement. I hope we will all be accreted by our active ardor for > all things Triumph, so we can avoid further acerbity and share the > accumulated knowledge available here. > > As an addendum, I'm not trying to be a smart ass, just trying to lighten up > a little. > > The apology is sincere and I avow that I will not allow myself to be drawn > into future online altercations. (sorry, I just can't seem to stop) > > I have received a lot of good advice, useful information, and > entertainment from a lot of really nice people on this site. I rarely contribute anything > but questions as I don't have the vast knowledge of all things Triumph that > so many others on this site graciously share. I have watched as some > discussions here and on other sites wandered way off topic and it isn't too much of > a problem as long as it stays friendly and within the bounds of common > courtesy and respect. This site has always stayed "on topic" to a greater extent > than many others and real enmity has been rare. I really hope it stays that way. > > Sincerely, > > Gary Blihovde > **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars > updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. > (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Mar 1 17:43:35 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 19:43:35 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge Message-ID: In a message dated 3/1/2009 2:19:49 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Similar experience.B After an initial complete guage time frame stretched to twice as long, they informed me politely and honestly that they moved long-standing customers like professional restorers ahead of one-timers like me on the to-do list.B Eventually, they charged me over $700 and didn't even paint the needles. Margaret at Mo-Ma does an awful lot of work for many cars which go to Pebble Beach. That is always a big source of pressure for her because those cars just have to be there. Mike Moore From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sun Mar 1 17:49:33 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 16:49:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4A '67 Restoration Pics Message-ID: <51817.43184.qm@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> --- On Mon, 3/2/09, P Caffrey wrote: From: P Caffrey Subject: TR4A '67 Restoration Pics To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, March 2, 2009, 12:23 AM Hi Everyone, For my part in abetting the List toward things not TR (by making a comment about Paul Harvey), I'd like to make amends by showing you some pictures I took recently of my TR restoration being done at a garage outside of Sacramento, CA. (Please just delete if not interested.) They are doing nice work at least to my untutored eye. They're going a bit slow but if it pays off with a quality job so be it....I really appreciate the generosity of the List in educating me on TRs. Sincerely, Pat [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of 560425-R1-018-7A_005.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of 560425-R1-024-10A_008.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of 560425-R1-028-12A_010.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of 560425-R1-034-15A_013.jpg] From wbeech at flash.net Sun Mar 1 18:10:51 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 18:10:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] BRG search In-Reply-To: <200903012251.n21MpS06008879@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200903012251.n21MpS06008879@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <335DEB9BE088426BA4EDF8A03A865293@sniffer> Angelo, You may have seen this one but here is a link to a French Triumph site that list most of the paint code. http://www.trregisterfrance.com/meca/paint.htm Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 3:44 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] BRG search Hello List: Still trying to track down some colour codes for a dark BRG. Came across a photo spread of the Ken Richardson TR2 OVC 276 rally car restoration . The car is done in a great looking period dark BRG. Exactly what I am looking for. Anyone know any details about the restoration of this historic TR2? Any leads where I can track down any information on this car? Have tried various Google searches, but no luck. Thanks for any help. Angelo Graham This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Sun Mar 1 18:40:45 2009 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 17:40:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 In-Reply-To: References: <49AA0358.3080500@greenheart.com> Message-ID: I'd wish to apologize for any hurt feelings from my earlier posting. I found out I may lose my job and this has put me in bad spirits. I hope that all on this list will stay on it, and maybe my rant can act as an example of what not to post on a car list. Sorry . . . On 2/28/09, tartanredmgb at gmail.com wrote: > > Great one gone? Hardly. Good riddance. > His veiled right-wing propaganda was poison for America's radio listeners. > He can party with Reagan in hell. These are the people that brought this > country and the world into another Great Depression. From chandler.rick at comcast.net Sun Mar 1 19:13:51 2009 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 18:13:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Route, TR3A Message-ID: The speedo and tach cables have pressed square cross-section ends that are nominally 0.125" on each side. The Moss replacements are all oversized by more than 0.010", and do not fit completely into the transmission recepticle; the corresponding receptacle in the speedo seems to be oversized as well and poses less of a problem. The solution is to CAREFULLY grind the square ends down to their specified dimension of 1/8" on a side. The properly sized end will then enter smoothly and completely into the transmission. Forcing the unground ends into the transmission and then screwing on the endcap will compress the cable interior and will result in fluctuating speedo (or tach) readings, and eventually failure of the speedo. Rick in Seattle 1960 TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From jmitch at snet.net Sun Mar 1 19:25:08 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 21:25:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] BRG search In-Reply-To: <335DEB9BE088426BA4EDF8A03A865293@sniffer> References: <200903012251.n21MpS06008879@smtp2.execulink.net> <335DEB9BE088426BA4EDF8A03A865293@sniffer> Message-ID: <49AB4384.4070405@snet.net> I have a 76 TR6 which had a very dark BRG in that year. My body shop matched it to Dupont Chromabase GS480K That's a 2 stage polyurethane paint. It's also important to know what clear is used as it effects the final color. My painter had to redo a door I F'd up and it didn't match even though he used the original batch of paint. He finally realized he'd used a different clear. Once he seshot with the right clear, all was perfect. If you need pictures, I can send some. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag wbeech wrote: > Angelo, > You may have seen this one but here is a link to a French Triumph site that > list most of the paint code. > http://www.trregisterfrance.com/meca/paint.htm > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham > Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 3:44 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] BRG search > > Hello List: > Still trying to track down some colour codes for a dark BRG. Came across a > photo spread of the Ken Richardson TR2 OVC 276 rally car restoration . The > car is done in a great looking period dark BRG. > Exactly what I am looking for. > Anyone know any details about the restoration of this historic TR2? > Any leads where I can track down any information on this car? Have tried > various Google searches, but no luck. > Thanks for any help. > Angelo Graham > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 1 19:27:46 2009 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 18:27:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 Message-ID: <21048.15509.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I think I have a Crane. Is that what you have? --- On Sun, 3/1/09, oliver wrote: From: oliver Subject: Re: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 To: "Bryan Loy" Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 1:44 PM my elec ig came with a really nice trouble shooting guide. do you have that? do you need me to scan mine and send it to you? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan Loy" To: Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 4:38 PM Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 > After an extended hiatus from driving the 6, I found today that I had no fire. Battery is good, starter is turning the engine, but getting no spark. I converted to electronic ignition when I rebuilt the engine 6-7 years ago. What is the life span of these systems? What would be my recommended course of action? Thanks in advance, > Bryan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Mar 1 22:59:00 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 01 Mar 2009 21:59:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph in NYTimes... Mercury De Soto The Winner? References: <74E3B4BD2B5746EFA41A48DFD1F5C6E8@DellXPS720> Message-ID: <00de01c99afb$fc9790b0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Sorry, you lost you got my vote. That "Marquis" is gross! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Corey Sherman" To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2009 8:31 AM Subject: [6pack] Triumph in NYTimes... Mercury De Soto The Winner? > Well go figure... > > despite a Call-to-Action to over 5,000 Triumph enthusiasts (VTR, 6-pack and > ITTR), apparently furniture maker Steve Heller's custom 1998 Mercury Grand > Marquis sedan was voted Car of the Year (1). > > It was built of parts from 11 donor cars with welded body panels. He > received nearly 1,000 of the 6,392 total votes (2). > > Without sounding cynical, I am surprised considering I so many friends, > family and List members claimed to vote, but if we it was to be fair it > would have been regulated by someone in the insurance, banking or auto > industry (LOL). Seriousily, something funny went on here, but little anybody > can do... "the people have voted" - who says they have to have good taste! > > Anyways, sorry about the rant, and a thank you for those who did support our > Marque. > Corey Sherman > > > > (1) NY Times Article Winner > http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/22/automobiles/collectibles/22MARQUIS.html > > > (2) NYTimes Classics and Conversation Pieces Published: February 20, 2009 > http://tinyurl.com/akru65 > > > (3) Read the Autoblog to see reader's comments: > http://tinyurl.com/c52opo > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) > Database version: 5.11860 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11860 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From DLylis at aol.com Sun Mar 1 20:12:18 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 22:12:18 EST Subject: [TR] My Apologies Message-ID: In a message dated 3/1/2009 5:18:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, AA00727 at aol.com writes: Please accept my abject apology and I hope this entire episode will be abbreviated / aborted! With your accord, I affirm that I will abstain from any further absurd, abusive and adolescent abasement. I hope we will all be accreted by our active ardor for all things Triumph, so we can avoid further acerbity and share the accumulated knowledge available here. Your alliterative apology accepted. The use of a vowel notwithstanding. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 1 20:49:35 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 19:49:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4A '67 Restoration Pics In-Reply-To: <51817.43184.qm@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090302034935.UEHQ15930.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I'd like to make amends > by showing you some pictures I took recently of my TR > restoration Unfortunately, Pat, you cannot send photos (or any attachment) through the list. You'll need to post them somewhere else, like Photobucket http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/ or the Team.Net photo gallery http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-galleries.php and send links to the list. Randall From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sun Mar 1 22:44:38 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 21:44:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4A '67 Resto Pics Message-ID: <231255.81338.qm@web59704.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi All, Thought I'd try to send the pics again... Pat http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/560425-R1-018-7A_005-1.jpg http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/560425-R1-034-15A_013.jpg http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/560425-R1-028-12A_010.jpg http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/560425-R1-024-10A_008.jpg From jgillis at tcd.ie Mon Mar 2 02:58:41 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 09:58:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] Trim Q Message-ID: <1235987921.49abadd12468c@mymail.tcd.ie> Good morning all, TR2 Q I was engaging in a little bit of acrobatics yesterday, namely fitting the carpet in the side wall of the foot well, Im sure it has an official name?, A post door seal (the big fat material covered one) and the hockey stick. The carpet piece supplied had a strip of trim material along the edge that lined with the door opening, so I guessed this wraps around the lip and is stuck in place. On top of this one then sticks the fat door seal using the excess material from its trimming, and finally the hockey stick is screwed in position. If the above is correct, is it only contact adhesive used to hold the carpet trim edge and the door seal in position, as the screws from the hockey stick come nowhere near catching the former. It seems a big ask with the door constantly putting the seal under pressure as it is slammed shut. Regards John 1954 TR2 (long door) From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Mar 2 06:35:35 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 08:35:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: <380-22009312133535376@M2W015.mail2web.com> Well listers, we secured our hotel for Triumphest/VTR (better hurry,rooms are going fast), but are wondering about the rules for the VTR Concours. We haven't filled out the form yet because of a few items in question We thought we would try this venue since it would be the first time we would be able to attend. We have what we think is a fairly decent car for this year, that should do fair (at least we think), but would we be dinged for the 165/70 tires (instead of 155s) on chrome spoke (vs. painted) rims, Chrome plated air cleaner, Lecarra steering wheel, alloy valve cover, or overdrive on a car that originally didnt have one? Some of these items could be changed relatively easily but others (like the overdrive or wheels) would be expensive and require a lot of work Something I'm not really willing to do for only one judging event - So how heavy handed are the rules?? Would this be considered a modified?? Certainly many (if not all) of these things were considered period aftermarket items are those OK? Anyway, we are looking forward to the event, but we were really QUITE disappointed that we couldnt book only three days at the Embassy Hotel. If you wanted four that was available, but we are not able to take that much time off  three was stretching it(not to mention the expense)! Not pointing fingers, or trying to start a flame war or anything, but I think that a lot of folks will be in the same situation, and its a shame that they wont be able to stay at the hotel the event is at simply because the hotel requires a four night stay! In the twenty or more years that I have been attending Triumphest, I have never had a problem securing rooms for two or three nights, and we have NEVER reserved rooms this early. But apparently, this time was different! So well be staying at the overflow Best Western, which by the way is a bit cheaper oh well, at any rate, hope to see a lot of you there! Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 2 07:30:26 2009 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 06:30:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 Message-ID: <576274.50605.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many thanks for that information. I must have a Pertronix, since I do not have anything besides what's under the coil. The trouble shooting guide would be a wonderful thing to have, if that offer for a copy still stands. Thanks in advance, Bryan --- On Sun, 3/1/09, Michael Porter wrote: From: Michael Porter Subject: Re: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 To: "Bryan Loy" Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 8:45 PM Bryan Loy wrote: > I think I have a Crane. Is that what you have? > > From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 2 08:13:34 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 09:13:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 References: <576274.50605.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002101c99b49$ad488a20$6f03a8c0@ranteer.local> i just scanned in the installation and trouble shooting pages that came with my pertronix for a list member. if anyone else would like a copy please contact me offline and i'll forward you a copy as well. From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Mon Mar 2 10:18:37 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 12:18:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <380-22009312133535376@M2W015.mail2web.com> References: <380-22009312133535376@M2W015.mail2web.com> Message-ID: On Mar 2, 2009, at 8:35 AM, v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote: > Well listers, we secured our hotel for Triumphest/VTR (better > hurry,rooms > are going fast), but are wondering about the rules for the VTR > Concours. We > haven't filled out the form yet because of a few items in question Hi Barry, It's probably best if I ask Darrell Floyd, VTR's Chief Judge, to give you some specifics about your questions, but I can answer some of your more general questions. In general the judging for VTR concours "stock" is judged to a showroom standard. In other words, the judges are looking for cars that appear as these cars would have on delivery. Exceptions are made for safety improvements. There are several "modified" classes that judge the vehicle on how well the modification was completed. Darrell can elaborate on each of these if you like. The best source for information is the link under the "Features" tab of www.vtr.org, then click "Competition Rules". Everything is there and your questions will likely be answered. Documents include "Concours Rules", "Concours Judging Guidelines", and there is also a PDF of the "Concours Judging Form." You do need to be a member of VTR to access these documents. As to your disappointment with the hotel requiring four nights, that is for the block rate of $149 which is sold out. You can register OUTSIDE of the block at a Triple-A rate of $155 night for as many or as few nights as you like. I know because I just did... thanks for the reminder to get that done! As for your never having to reserve this early, I feel your pain. But on the other hand, when my club, the Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club, hosted VTR's NATC (North American Triumph Challenge) last year, we also had people registering early. I will tell you though that many people reserve "just in case" they will attend and then cancel a week or two ahead of time when they decide for whatever reason they are not going. The bummer about that is that the room those people had reserved, and then cancel, go into regular room inventory and ARE NOT available at the block price. Not a big deal this year since the Triple-A rate and the block rate are only $6 apart, but a HUGE deal last year when we had a block rate of $99 and the Triple-A rate was $179 at the Marriott. Those folks who cancelled last minute cost other potential attendees some very inexpensive rooms. Plus, it just creates havoc in the host club's planning. In any case, this year's gathering should be a blast, I'm looking forward to the first ever combined Triumphest/NATC. Feel free to contact me either on list or off with additional questions or comments. Cheers, Blake J. Discher, President VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER http://www.vtr.org From pethier at comcast.net Mon Mar 2 10:40:44 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 17:40:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6, and pertronix scans In-Reply-To: <002101c99b49$ad488a20$6f03a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <156893815.2092841236015644760.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "oliver" wrote: > i just scanned in the installation and trouble shooting pages that > came with > my pertronix for a list member. if anyone else would like a copy > please > contact me offline and i'll forward you a copy as well. For the older cars, I have scanned the POSITIVE-GROUND instructions for the positive-ground version of the Pertronix. They are at my Flickr account. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 2 11:56:44 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 10:56:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] FYI Herald and Vitesse windscreens available in the USA Message-ID: <0a1c01c99b68$a6cb1180$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Thought I would pass this along, JIC someone is looking for a windscreen and missed the announcement on the Herald/Vitesse lists. If you need one, now is the time to act ! -- Randall -----Original Message----- From: richardtankel [mailto:richardt at prosourceglassintl.com] Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 9:41 AM To: 'Randall' Subject: RE: [triumph_vitesse] Re: [triumph_herald] Front windscreens - Again Randall: Hi, I have some good news for you hopefully. We are importing glass from the UK this month that will arrive by early April, possibly sooner. There are Herald/ Vitesse clear new windshields available. I know these are aftermarket not Triplex at this price. The quality is good as we import glass for all exotics from this manufacturer as well. The price for 1 or 2 is $275 ea. There is a $25 crate fee + truck freight. Let me know if going to CA the truck freight is running approx $185 whether you buy 1, 2 or a few. We can discount further if there is interest in a group purchase. Let me know soon as we will bring in a couple for our own stock. Once these are arrive and go on Ebay they will be priced $325 individually. Hopefully this will be a savings ordering in advance. Thanks, Richard ProSource Glass International Toll Free:877-345-2800 978-975-5400 Fax: 978-975-5300 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 2 12:10:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 11:10:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6, and pertronix scans In-Reply-To: <156893815.2092841236015644760.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <002101c99b49$ad488a20$6f03a8c0@ranteer.local> <156893815.2092841236015644760.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0a2301c99b6a$97f0d030$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Or, you could always just get them from Pertronix: http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/default.aspx -- Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Mar 2 12:07:59 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 14:07:59 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: Barry, VTR Judges are instructed to allow the next size up, 165 tires as stock on Spitfires since the 155's are extremely hard to find. 165's are also allowed on TR2's & TR3's for the same reason. Chrome wire wheels are considered period equipment since they were available from dealers. The wheels should have the correct number of spokes for the model with the following exception: TR2's & TR3's are allowed 60 spokes instead of 48 for safety reasons. Overdrive on a non-overdrive Triumph is allowed since one could buy an overdrive conversion kit from the dealer. The rest of the items you mentioned would receive deduction if you were showing your Spitfire in Showroom stock. If you were showing in Modified (Touring or Prepared) no deductions would be taken for originality and the items would be judged for quality only. One possible exception could be the steering wheel if you could document it as a period piece. Not sure about the Lecarra. Hope this Helps, Feel free to contact me off list for any other questions. Cheers, Darrell Floyd VTR Chief Judge 70 Spitfire MK3 Modified Prepared 76 Spitfire 1500 Showroom Stock In a message dated 3/2/2009 8:36:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: We thought we would try this venue since it would be the first time we would be able to attend. We have what we think is a fairly decent car for this year, that should do fair (at least we think), but would we be dinged for the 165/70 tires (instead of 155s) on chrome spoke (vs. painted) rims, Chrome plated air cleaner, Lecarra steering wheel, alloy valve cover, or overdrive on a car that originally didnt have one? Some of these items could be changed relatively easily but others (like the overdrive or wheels) would be expensive and require a lot of work Something I'm not really willing to do for only one judging event - So how heavy handed are the rules?? Would this be considered a modified?? Certainly many (if not all) of these things were considered period aftermarket items are those OK? **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From pethier at comcast.net Mon Mar 2 12:27:39 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 19:27:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6, and pertronix scans In-Reply-To: <0a2301c99b6a$97f0d030$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <2012844754.2154951236022059557.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Randall" wrote: > Or, you could always just get them from Pertronix: > http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/default.aspx > > > -- Randall Where were you when Paul was looking? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From dkspence at telus.net Mon Mar 2 12:44:47 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 12:44:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Route, TR3A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <81596535-CF07-44E6-B206-85810EA717BA@telus.net> BETTER THAN ATTEMPTING TO GRIND THESE DOWM, TAKE THE CABLE TO A SHOP THAT SERVICES TACHS SPEEDOS ETC FOR LARGE TRUCKS. THEY WILL HAVE THE EQUIPMENT TO RE COMPRESS THE ENDS TO THE PROPER DIMENSION.. oops not shouting... On 2-Mar-09, at 10:41 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Route, TR3A > > > The speedo and tach cables have pressed square cross-section ends > that are > nominally 0.125" on each side. The Moss replacements are all > oversized by > more than 0.010", and do not fit completely into the transmission > recepticle; the corresponding receptacle in the speedo seems to be > oversized > as well and poses less of a problem. The solution is to CAREFULLY > grind the > square ends down to their specified dimension of 1/8" on a side. The > properly sized end will then enter smoothly and completely into the > transmission. Forcing the unground ends into the transmission and then > screwing on the endcap will compress the cable interior and will > result in > fluctuating speedo (or tach) readings, and eventually failure of > the speedo. From trlist01 at canleyworks.com Mon Mar 2 13:04:28 2009 From: trlist01 at canleyworks.com (Mark Gendron) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 12:04:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] FS: 1954 TR2 project (Seattle) In-Reply-To: <000f01c98629$84497ec0$0400a8c0@toadstool2> Message-ID: <009701c99b72$193a2db0$0400a8c0@toadstool2> Last month I posted information about my TR2 project, for which I am seeking a new home. I now have some photos posted, and you can find them here: http://gallery.canleyworks.com/v/tr2_for_sale/ I hope to finish photographing the interior this week. Thanks! -Mark 1954 TR2 TS2571L(o) From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 2 13:18:11 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 15:18:11 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/2/2009 7:36:40 AM Central Standard Time, v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: > > We thought we would try this venue since it would be the first time we > would be able to attend. We have what we think is a fairly decent car for > this year, that should do fair (at least we think), but would we be dinged > for the 165/70 tires (instead of 155s) on chrome spoke (vs. painted) rims, > Chrome plated air cleaner, Lecarra steering wheel, alloy valve cover, or > overdrive on a car that originally didnt have one? Some of these items > could be changed relatively easily but others (like the overdrive or > wheels) would be expensive and require a lot of work Something I'm not > really willing to do for only one judging event - So how heavy handed are > the rules?? Would this be considered a modified?? > We are pretty easy in most respects. for example, if your car is painted a correct color for your model car, no problem. The fact that your car was originally another color matters not. The same is true for tire sizes, too. If the factory, or the dealer offered upsized tires you are allowed upsized tires even if your particular car was not so equipped. Period accessories and after market parts such as your Lecarra steering wheel are not a problem as long as it is indeed a period accessory. Chrome plated engine parts may be considered over-restoration but there are no deducts for over-restoration. Consider a hypothetical situation with two cars parked side by side. One has a valve cover painted just like the factory and the other has a powdercoat of Argent silver and a clear coat. Both cars will receive no deduct points. The new modified classes are divided into two basic categories: Touring is for cars that have been modified in a manner that does not effect how the car feels to drive. These are such changes as alternators, electric fans, electric fuel pumps, things that make the car more reliable and suitable for driving (which VTR encourages). Performance is for cars that have been modified to improve the driving experience but are still street legal (note, there has always been and will always be a class for race cars). This class allows for headers, different wheels and tires and a number of other changes. Full details are at the website as Blake pointed out and the guidelines are pretty detailed as to what is and is not allowed so I won't belabor the issue much more. But Darrell and the concours committee will determine which class a car will fall into based on these guidelines but owners who have referred to these guidelines will know where they will fall in most cases. But in your case I don't see anything that will bump you into the modified classes. Your changes are rather typical in regular concours. If you have any other questions after reading the guidelines let us know. Dave From pcaffrey at ymail.com Mon Mar 2 13:29:47 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 12:29:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4A '67 Resto Pics Message-ID: <16800.35344.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi Tom, Several folks have made the same observation from the List....Randall informed me that I probably have a TR6 fuel pump (bowl up, not hanging). The pump was replaced many years ago. (Thanks Randall for the link to send the pics.) Pat --- On Mon, 3/2/09, THOMAS FANSHER wrote: From: THOMAS FANSHER Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A '67 Resto Pics To: pcaffrey at ymail.com Date: Monday, March 2, 2009, 7:56 PM Like the pictures a lot. Thanks for sending them. Is the fuel pump upside down? The bowl should hang down.... just my 2 cents worth. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "P Caffrey" To: Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 12:44 AM Subject: [TR] TR4A '67 Resto Pics > Hi All, > Thought I'd try to send the pics again... > Pat > > http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/560425-R1-018-7A_005-1.jpg > http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/560425-R1-034-15A_013.jpg > http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/560425-R1-028-12A_010.jpg > http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/560425-R1-024-10A_008.jpg > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 2 14:13:00 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 13:13:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0a7201c99b7b$ac5d2d00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > for example, if your car is painted > a correct color for your model car, no problem. > Chrome plated engine parts may be considered over-restoration > and the other has a powdercoat of Argent silver and a clear coat. > Both cars will receive no deduct points. I'm confused. Is there some rationale as to why the body must be a color offered by the factory (when dealers were known to respray them); but engine parts can have a finish never offered by the factory? Randall From DLylis at aol.com Mon Mar 2 16:51:25 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 18:51:25 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph in NYTimes... Mercury De Soto The Winner? Message-ID: I watched the slide show and IMHO this guy deserves to win something! If you haven't, watch it. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 2 16:54:41 2009 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 15:54:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 Message-ID: <171488.49192.qm@web37608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> i'm sure that it will help, many thanks to you and to all who came to my aid Bryan --- On Mon, 3/2/09, oliver wrote: From: oliver Subject: Re: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 To: triumphs at autox.team.net, "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Monday, March 2, 2009, 9:13 AM i just scanned in the installation and trouble shooting pages that came with my pertronix for a list member. if anyone else would like a copy please contact me offline and i'll forward you a copy as well. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as paradise.712002 at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Mar 2 17:29:50 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 00:29:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] My Apologies In-Reply-To: <49AAE35B.7205.1C56E54B@localhost> Message-ID: <1468073906.2964781236040190106.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >> Please accept my abject apology and I hope this entire >> episode B will be abbreviated / aborted! >Gary, if you really want your apology to be effective you must issue >a written statement. B It must contain only a passive expression that >perceptions can be deceiving, that you regret any unpleasantness it >may have caused to your teammates and those around you, that you were >young and misguided, that your cousin put you up to it, that you paid >your taxes with TurboTax, and that you didn't realize it would cost >so many votes. B You must not say you will never do it again because t>hat implies you did it the first time. B And never lie to Congress. B >They don't like that. Uh huh.B You just say, "Mistakes were made.B People died.B Apologies were given."B What more can any reasonable person expect???? From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Mar 2 17:36:03 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 00:36:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Route, TR3A In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1238166384.2967711236040563544.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >The speedo and tach cables have pressed square cross-section ends that are >nominally 0.125" on each side. The Moss replacements are all oversized by >more than 0.010", and do not fit completely into the transmission >recepticle; the corresponding receptacle in the speedo seems to be oversized >as well and poses less of a problem. The solution is to CAREFULLY grind the >square ends down to their specified dimension of 1/8" on a side. The >properly sized end will then enter smoothly and completely into the >transmission. Forcing the unground ends into the transmission and then >screwing on the endcap will compress the cable interior and will result in >fluctuating speedo (or tach) readings, and eventually failure of the speedo. Margaret at Mo-Ma did mention that I needed to grind the end of the cable off, so it wasn't too long.B Didn't mention aboutB this, though.B B I can give it a try. Thanks, Rick. Terry B From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Mar 2 17:47:24 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 19:47:24 EST Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Route, TR3A Message-ID: In a message dated 3/2/2009 4:36:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: The speedo and tach cables have pressed square cross-section ends that are >nominally 0.125" on each side. The Moss replacements are all oversized by >more than 0.010", and do not fit completely into the transmission >recepticle; the corresponding receptacle in the speedo seems to be oversized >as well and poses less of a problem. The solution is to CAREFULLY grind the >square ends down to their specified dimension of 1/8" on a side. The >properly sized end will then enter smoothly and completely into the >transmission. Forcing the unground ends into the transmission and then >screwing on the endcap will compress the cable interior and will result in >fluctuating speedo (or tach) readings, and eventually failure of the speedo. Margaret at Mo-Ma did mention that I needed to grind the end of the cable off, so it wasn't too long.B Didn't mention aboutB this, though.B B I can give it a try. Thanks, Rick. There is apparentally only one mfgr of all the speedo cables we get here in the US. Margaret has seen failures of her rebuilt speedos because the inner portion was too long. The new cables were being made too long. They should be 3/8 (Check this-I think its 3/8 -but its in my shop manual). She campaigned with all the suppliers to get the cables made correctly until she finally cornered the manufacturer. She told him about all the speedos and tachs which were getting broken because the inner portion was too long. He laughed and told her she shouldn't complain, it was good for her business. I used a grinding wheel to shorten mine, then a fine file to dress the edge. Mike Moore From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon Mar 2 18:10:50 2009 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 17:10:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Trim Q In-Reply-To: <1235987921.49abadd12468c@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1235987921.49abadd12468c@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: Hi John - When I took the old carpeting out of my "2", the door seal was attached with carpet tacks pounded into the metal, and then the carpeting was glued over the top of the door seals. I reinstalled the same way. It seems to be holding; although, I am very careful getting in and out. I try not to drag my foot across the door seal. Does this help? David Gunn TS 3388L 1954 TR2 Long Door Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Contacts: Organize your contact list. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/marcusatmicrosoft.spaces.live.com-Blog-cn s!503D1D86EBB2B53C!2285.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_UGC_Contacts_032009 From wbeech at flash.net Mon Mar 2 23:49:31 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 23:49:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] FW: Response to contact Message-ID: <66231FFAB3AF4875B20B9CFA5ACBE338@sniffer> Not sure if you all have seen this but here is an outfit that is clearing out a warehouse full of NOS Lucas products. It looks like they are not too sure what they all go to but they are putting the Lucas part numbers on all their descriptions. http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/maxwellthomasenterprises NFI, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Mar 3 06:14:05 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 08:14:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <0a7201c99b7b$ac5d2d00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <0a7201c99b7b$ac5d2d00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <8CB6A1910779B11-1188-2058@webmail-dx09.sysops.aol.com> As Darrell pointed out, chrome plated parts, when not offered from the factory or by the dealer, constitute a point deduct.? I stand corrected.? That is why he is the Chief Judge and I am a the flunkie.? But some cars were offered with chrome valve covers.? TR3's for example.? So a TR3 sporting a chrome valve cover is perfectly fine. The bottom line is we don't judge your car based on how "IT" was delivered but how a representative car of that series could have been delivered? from the dealer.? So if you repaint your Apple Green TR3 a different color offered on TR3's, no problem.? And it doesn't have to be lacquer paint either.? Enamel is fine.? Base coat/clear coat is fine.? Powder coat is fine.? Just don't paint it Metal Flake Fluorescent Orange. Dave ? I'm confused. Is there some rationale as to why the body must be a color offered by the factory (when dealers were known to respray them); but engine parts can have a finish never offered by the factory? -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 2 Mar 2009 3:13 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info > for example, if your car is painted > a correct color for your model car, no problem. > Chrome plated engine parts may be considered over-restoration > and the other has a powdercoat of Argent silver and a clear coat. > Both cars will receive no deduct points. I'm confused. Is there some rationale as to why the body must be a color offered by the factory (when dealers were known to respray them); but engine parts can have a finish never offered by the factory? Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as dave1massey at cs.com http://www.team.net/archive ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Mar 3 08:34:48 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 10:34:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <8CB6A1910779B11-1188-2058@webmail-dx09.sysops.aol.com> References: <0a7201c99b7b$ac5d2d00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <8CB6A1910779B11-1188-2058@webmail-dx09.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CB6A2CB8BC47BC-153C-5F5@FWM-D31.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: dave1massey at cs.com As Darrell pointed out, chrome plated parts, when not offered from the factory or by the dealer, constitute a point deduct.? I stand corrected.? That is why he is the Chief Judge and I am a the flunkie.? But some cars were offered with chrome valve covers.? TR3's for example.? So a TR3 sporting a chrome valve cover is perfectly fine. ==AM== Dave, I'm not entirely sure whether you are right or Darrell is right. However, to me, this section of the Concours Rules, as revised July 19, 2006, seems pretty clear: "3.6.1 PERIOD ACCESSORIES: Accessories which were available to the owner during the period when the car was current shall not be a cause for a deduction and shall not be considered modifications. This includes modern radios if installed in a period mount." So if you got yourself chrome air cleaners from Wilco or (gasp) MG Mitten (hey, despite the name, they used to have a Triumph 10 wagon featured in their ads), or an alloy valve cover from Vilem B. Haan (spelling?), or grille guards from American Carry-All Products (AMCO) or even fuzzy dice from J.C. Whitney ?back when your car was six months old, then it's ok (so long as the accessory can be documented as "period"). I honestly don't know how far back the Lecarra steering wheels go. ;-) Then there's "3.6.2 REPLACEMENT PARTS: Replacement and/or reproduction parts abound for Triumphs. No deduction shall be taken for replacement parts unless they differ significantly in appearance or material from the original. In such case the deduction shall be one-half of the deduction that would be taken if the part were missing." I've seen this in recent years "reinterpreted" to mean that there would be a deduction for stainless steel exhaust systems, even if all pieces are to the original design and shape, since somehow "stainless" differs significantly in material from "mild steel"? Seems to me that a crafty competitor could throw a coat of gloss black on the whole system, and no one would know.... (Makes me kinda wonder if Burgess silencers are more original than Harmo silencers...or is it the other way 'round? :-) --Andy Mace From allegrorover at mac.com Tue Mar 3 09:55:25 2009 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 09:55:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <8CB6A2CB8BC47BC-153C-5F5@FWM-D31.sysops.aol.com> References: <0a7201c99b7b$ac5d2d00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <8CB6A1910779B11-1188-2058@webmail-dx09.sysops.aol.com> <8CB6A2CB8BC47BC-153C-5F5@FWM-D31.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <66EA84E8-F781-4086-AE65-341FAE0A8DD4@mac.com> I'm having trouble understanding all of this discussion on the judging process. One cannot get a readout of what were the point deductions until after the event is over and that is done by contacting the Chief Judge, and asking for a copy. So the end result is, your judged you get your award based on that unbiased judging then you can ask what was wrong, so if points were deducted it's too late to question it or have it corrected The discussion on the modified cars is unclear to me as well. It appears that all cars that are in that class are judged together whether it is a 3, 4 , or whatever, even if there were enough cars of the same type to make up a class, three I believe. I have competed in two nationals and even though I believe I did well, I wasn't clear on the judging standards or results. I know I can go to the VTR and read the rules but that doesn't clarify what you were deducted points for at the event. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From chandler.rick at comcast.net Tue Mar 3 10:19:57 2009 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 09:19:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] Speedo and Tach Cable Problems, Part 2 Message-ID: Yesterday, Mike wrote "There is apparentally only one mfgr of all the speedo cables we get here in the US. Margaret has seen failures of her rebuilt speedos because the inner portion was too long. The new cables were being made too long. They should be 3/8 (Check this-I think its 3/8 -but its in my shop manual). She campaigned with all the suppliers to get the cables made correctly until she finally cornered the manufacturer. She told him about all the speedos and tachs which were getting broken because the inner portion was too long. He laughed and told her she shouldn't complain, it was good for her business. I used a grinding wheel to shorten mine, then a fine file to dress the edge. Mike Moore" Mike, With all respect to Margaret and the folks at MOMA, the free length of the cables (differential length between inner and outer components) is not the problem. When I first tried to solve this problem last year, after smoking my tach using a new Moss cable, I realized that the inner cable was compressed and simply ground off the length to make it work. The result was an unraveled cable at the ground-off end. I made a 0.125" square cross-section pig and inserted it into the dizzy (I was addressing the tach problem at the time) and found that it inserted an inch or so, more than enough to accommodate the entire pressed end of the cable. At this point my mental light-bulb finally illuminated (it's a bit dimmer these days and it takes me longer to arrive at the obvious) and I mic'ed the cable ends to find the root problem in the oversized cross-section dimensions. I'm belaboring this point a bit because the manufacturer of the cable knows perfectly well that the cable, from a free-length point of view, is in spec. Attempting to fix the cable thickness problem by lopping off several mm of free length is a kluge that will ultimately fail, and does nor force the manufacturer to fix the true dimension problem. I applied the same technique to a new speedo cable and was gratified to find that the persistent +/- 5 mph wobble in the speedo disappeared. It's now as steady as the speedo in my Dodge pickup (Dodge pickups are our gold standard, right?) Rick in Seattle 1960 TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 3 10:58:56 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 09:58:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] Speedo and Tach Cable Problems, Part 2 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0c0c01c99c29$b98d09b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I realized that the inner cable was > compressed and simply ground off the length to make it work. The result > was > an unraveled cable at the ground-off end. FWIW, most auto parts stores sell a 'universal' inner cable that is designed to be cut to length. To avoid unraveling, it comes with a solid metal terminator that crimps over the cut end, and has the square drive for the speedo/tach head. > I made a 0.125" square > cross-section pig and inserted it into the dizzy (I was addressing the > tach > problem at the time) and found that it inserted an inch or so, more than > enough to accommodate the entire pressed end of the cable. Worth pointing out, perhaps, that the dizzy/gearbox end is not normally what sets how far the other end of the cable protrudes. As I mentioned before, there is a sleeve inside the cable at the speedo/tach end that should control how much the end protrudes into the gauge. Otherwise, the inner cable can slide down into all that excess clearance, and miss the head mechanism entirely. And the excess clearance is needed, because the length of the outer cable changes depending on how it is bent (more than the inner cable does). Also, there are also at least two different 'standard' sizes for the square ends. The Volvo J-type OD I bought has a gear with a smaller internal square than the original Triumph gears do. None of my cables or angle drives will mate with the Volvo gear, even though they work fine with Triumph gears. Randall From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Mar 3 11:24:51 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 13:24:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info References: <0a7201c99b7b$ac5d2d00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <8CB6A1910779B11-1188-2058@webmail-dx09.sysops.aol.com> <8CB6A2CB8BC47BC-153C-5F5@FWM-D31.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <24EB89CC2F7D4E089921C0154D60826E@fred8kwiskhcfu> I remember judging in the "Nationals" a few years ago down in Florida, on a flat bed truck is a 100% frame up that had just been finished that day/or night before, it was "Blue" and I mean blue everyplace you could see, manifolds,carbs, shock towers, you name it and it was blue, needless to say the car received a very low score and the owner was slightly upset, no judge is allowed to discuss scoring with the owner, that is the chiefs job, well I pointed out a very big man standing near by and said that is the "Chief" of the "SH#T COMMITTEE" and you need to talk with him, he tapped the big man on the should and said I want to talk with you about this "SH#T Committee you are in charge of, they both realized what he had said and broke up laughing, case closed, great show fine people and really fine T/Rs. "FT" From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 11:57:48 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 13:57:48 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 10:35:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: So if you got yourself chrome air cleaners from Wilco or (gasp) MG Mitten (hey, despite the name, they used to have a Triumph 10 wagon featured in their ads), or an alloy valve cover from Vilem B. Haan (spelling?), or grille guards from American Carry-All Products (AMCO) or even fuzzy dice from J.C. Whitney ?back when your car was six months old, then it's ok (so long as the accessory can be documented as "period"). I honestly don't know how far back the Lecarra steering wheels go. ;-) Hey Andy, Technically you are correct. I have never seen the chrome air cleaners, the only period alloy valve cover is the factory optional TR3 one that is way cool and allowed but if there were more and it can be documented as period then I would be OK with it. I have an Amco grille guard on my Showroom Stock TR3B along with those really hard to find little Amco rear bumper add on's that wrap around the rear wings, remember those? How do you document? A period ad would do and sometimes the judges are instructed to take the owners word for it. That being said we would exclude any parts obviously new reproduction stock and made in Taiwan. BTW, with another club I was once told that if I presented my TR4 with those American Racing Silverstone Mags on it in Concours one more time it would be judged like it had no wheels on it at all. No Kidding another participant was whining about it big time! What did I do? I documented those wheels as period equipment and got the club to change their rules. That process is certainly available to any VTR member. I've seen this in recent years "reinterpreted" to mean that there would be a deduction for stainless steel exhaust systems Just for clarity you are partly correct, however starting with the NATC in Texas we are now allowing stainless steel exhaust systems. I changed this in part due to popular demand but primarily since some models no longer have mild steel systems available anywhere. Sort of like the tire size rules. BTW this rule was not reinterpreted during my watch. It was that way since I started judging in the 1990 NATC in Boulder, CO. so I would dispute the "recent years claim." I even suffered this deduction on my TR6 in Cincinnati, I forget the year but it was way back. What did I do? I changed back to mild steel. I guess that doesn't get me anything now, Huh? Also the following rule plays a roll too in this discussion. As before it spells out the appropriate deduction as being one half of the full allowable deduction of a missing part. So if an air cleaner is worth 3 pts. a judge should deduct 1.5 pts. for authenticity if it has been chrome plated. Regards, Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 3 12:20:09 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 11:20:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0c2501c99c35$11d2fed0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > or even fuzzy > dice > from J.C. Whitney > ?back when your car was six months old, This sounds like the beginning of a new award to me. We used to have the "JC Whitney" award for the most gadgets; now that JCW is no more we should make it the "period correct" JCW award BTW, I came across a web site that claims LeCarra was started by Dick and Roy Ostein from San Diego, California; sometime after they joined the military in 1976 and got stationed in France. So I don't think the LeCarra wheels can be "period correct" for any but the very last few years of Triumphs. That link is http://www.superchevy.com/technical/additionaltech_perfdir/shoptour/0104sc_l ecarra/index.html but for some reason it's grayed out when I look at it with IE. I had to examine the source in text mode to read it. Randall From brad.kahler at 141.com Tue Mar 3 12:20:28 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 19:20:28 GMT Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: <20090303122008.SM03352@[166.70.182.40]> > Also the following rule plays a roll too in this discussion. As before it > spells out the appropriate deduction as being one half of the full allowable > deduction of a missing part. So if an air cleaner is worth 3 pts. a judge > should deduct 1.5 pts. for authenticity if it has been chrome plated. Andy, remember that rolling chassis TR4 with the factory rebuilt engine I bought from you years ago? It had chrome air cleaners on the carbs. At that time we discussed whether they might have been equiped at the factory, if so wouldn't that mean chrome air cleaners on TR4s would be acceptable in concours judging? Just wondering! Brad From spitlist at cox.net Tue Mar 3 12:27:45 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 12:27:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <0c2501c99c35$11d2fed0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <0c2501c99c35$11d2fed0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: What do you mean, "JCW is no more"? They are still alive and kicking last I checked! http://www.jcwhitney.com/Auto-Parts/10101.jcw Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 12:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info > or even fuzzy > dice > from J.C. Whitney > ?back when your car was six months old, This sounds like the beginning of a new award to me. We used to have the "JC Whitney" award for the most gadgets; now that JCW is no more we should make it the "period correct" JCW award BTW, I came across a web site that claims LeCarra was started by Dick and Roy Ostein from San Diego, California; sometime after they joined the military in 1976 and got stationed in France. So I don't think the LeCarra wheels can be "period correct" for any but the very last few years of Triumphs. That link is http://www.superchevy.com/technical/additionaltech_perfdir/shoptour/0104sc_l ecarra/index.html but for some reason it's grayed out when I look at it with IE. I had to examine the source in text mode to read it. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 3 12:39:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 11:39:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: <0c2501c99c35$11d2fed0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <0c2c01c99c37$cb448710$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Oops, my mistake! Apologies to all. I was thinking of Warshawsky's, which used to be the same thing as JCW. Roy Warshawsky died in 1997, and his family eventually sold the business to a bunch of investment bankers. http://www.riversidecompany.com/ The JCW name lives on, but that huge, crowded store with the worn wooden floors on State St. is gone. -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry > Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 11:28 AM > To: 'Randall'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info > > What do you mean, "JCW is no more"? They are still alive and kicking last > I > checked! > > http://www.jcwhitney.com/Auto-Parts/10101.jcw > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 12:20 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info > > > or even fuzzy > > dice > > from J.C. Whitney > > ?back when your car was six months old, > > This sounds like the beginning of a new award to me. We used to have the > "JC Whitney" award for the most gadgets; now that JCW is no more we should > make it the "period correct" JCW award > > BTW, I came across a web site that claims LeCarra was started by Dick and > Roy Ostein from San Diego, California; sometime after they joined the > military in 1976 and got stationed in France. So I don't think the > LeCarra > wheels can be "period correct" for any but the very last few years of > Triumphs. > > That link is > http://www.superchevy.com/technical/additionaltech_perfdir/shoptour/0104sc > _l > ecarra/index.html > but for some reason it's grayed out when I look at it with IE. I had to > examine the source in text mode to read it. > > Randall > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr3driver at ca.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From trlist01 at canleyworks.com Tue Mar 3 12:48:20 2009 From: trlist01 at canleyworks.com (Mark Gendron) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 11:48:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] FS: 1954 TR2 project (Seattle) Message-ID: <005501c99c39$029d9340$0400a8c0@toadstool2> Several people have requested more information, Which I have posted here: http://www.canleyworks.com/triumph/tr2_for_sale/ I will expand and update this information as time permits. Thank you -Mark Gendron > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark Gendron [mailto:trlist01 at canleyworks.com] > Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 12:04 PM > > Last month I posted information about my TR2 project, > for which I am seeking a new home. I now have some > photos posted, and you can find them here: > > http://gallery.canleyworks.com/v/tr2_for_sale/ > > I hope to finish photographing the interior this week. > > Thanks! > -Mark > > 1954 TR2 TS2571L(o) From emanteno at gmail.com Tue Mar 3 12:54:13 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 13:54:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <0c2c01c99c37$cb448710$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <0c2501c99c35$11d2fed0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <0c2c01c99c37$cb448710$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <354a1780903031154u4e74f4b0p5f1e7b8a964c217c@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 1:39 PM, Randall wrote: > > > The JCW name lives on, but that huge, crowded store with the worn wooden > floors on State St. is gone. Replaced by a giant warehouse just off of Interstate 80 near LaSalle, Illinos. As an aside, LaSalle is where the first North American TRiumph Challenge took place in 1976, only about 20 miles or so from TRiumph, IL. So now this conversation has gone full circle. ;-) Irv Korey (event chair, NATC I) 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Mar 3 12:58:41 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 14:58:41 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 10:55:49 AM Central Standard Time, allegrorover at mac.com writes: > I'm having trouble understanding all of this discussion on the judging > process. > One cannot get a readout of what were the point deductions until after > the event is over and that is done by contacting the Chief Judge, and > asking for a copy. > So the end result is, your judged you get your award based on that > unbiased judging then you can ask what was wrong, so if points were > deducted it's too late to question it or have it corrected > The discussion on the modified cars is unclear to me as well. > It appears that all cars that are in that class are judged together > whether it is a 3, 4 , or whatever, even if there were enough cars of > the same type to make up a class, three I believe. > I have competed in two nationals and even though I believe I did well, > I wasn't clear on the judging standards or results. > I know I can go to the VTR and read the rules but that doesn't clarify > what you were deducted points for at the event. > There are good reasons for all of this. Remember that this is a volunteer operation. The judges are all volunteers and give up a couple of precious convention hours to provide this service "free of charge." We could hire professional concours judges but that would mean charging extra $'s for the concours experience. Instead we use volunteers and avoid that extra expense. And the quickest way to loose volunteers is to let car owners lay into a judge for some perceived unjustified deduction. BTDT. Since we use volunteers they are not as well trained as professionals would be. But since all cars are judged by the same team it is reasonable to expect that they will reliably choose the top three cars correctly. And since the points don't transfer to any other competitions (unlike professional concours judging) the actual points don't matter. So, how do you know what areas to address when preparing the car? The best way is to volunteer as a judge. After judging one class you will know what judges look for and it will become obvious. (It's never too soon to recruit judges, eh Darrell?) Dave From wbeech at flash.net Tue Mar 3 13:03:08 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 13:03:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing the wiper motor In-Reply-To: <4CC8CD8D66B944CF8B61CE63ED2DEC0B@sniffer> References: <4CC8CD8D66B944CF8B61CE63ED2DEC0B@sniffer> Message-ID: I disassembled/cleaned/re-assembled the wiper motor and gearbox for my '58 TR3A. When I touched the hot wire to one of the poles, I am still pos ground, the motor ran a few seconds then stopped. Of course, this is what it is supposed to do when it is turned off and goes to the rest position. My question is: What connections do I use to run the motor for a few minutes to be sure everything is OK. I don't seem to be able to find the right combination and the manual is no help. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" ______________________________________________ From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 13:04:49 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 15:04:49 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: Whoops, This is the Rule that was supposed to follow so the previous statement may make sense now. "Also the following rule plays a roll too in this discussion. As before it spells out the appropriate deduction as being one half of the full allowable deduction of a missing part. So if an air cleaner is worth 3 pts. a judge should deduct 1.5 pts. for authenticity if it has been chrome plated." 3.6.5 OVER-RESTORATION: It is the responsibility of the team leaders to report to the Chief Judge any car which they feel to be over-restored. Examples of over- restoration are as follows: Too much chrome Leather where it shouldn't be Wool carpet where it shouldn't be Etc. The Chief Judge, in conference with the team leader, shall determine if the car is in fact over-restored. If such is the case the car shall be moved to the modified class and judged accordingly. The Chief Judge may seek any advice deemed appropriate in reaching this decision. If only portions, and not the entire car, is judged to be over restored, then the over-restored items or parts shall receive one-half the deduction of a missing item or part. Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Mar 3 13:32:59 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 15:32:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <20090303122008.SM03352@[166.70.182.40]> References: <20090303122008.SM03352@[166.70.182.40]> Message-ID: <8CB6A56609DBCEE-12D8-96D@FWM-D31.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Brad Kahler > Also the following rule plays a roll too in this discussion. As before it > spells out the appropriate deduction as being one half of the full allowable > deduction of a missing part. So if an air cleaner is worth 3 pts. a judge > should deduct 1.5 pts. for authenticity if it has been chrome plated. Andy, remember that rolling chassis TR4 with the factory rebuilt engine I bought from you years ago? It had chrome air cleaners on the carbs. At that time we discussed whether they might have been equiped at the factory, if so wouldn't that mean chrome air cleaners on TR4s would be acceptable in concours judging? Just wondering! ==AM== Good point, Brad; I'd almost forgotten about those air cleaners! We may never know...unless someone else here on the list has heard of or seen chromed early TR4 AC air cleaners. They're the only ones I ever remember seeing. But who knows the source? By the time you got the chassis, there wasn't much to look at. But that car was a very well-equipped car when new: wire wheels, Michelin X radials and factory overdrive. For all I know, it might have been an Auto Show display car.... --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 3 13:39:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 12:39:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Testing the wiper motor In-Reply-To: References: <4CC8CD8D66B944CF8B61CE63ED2DEC0B@sniffer> Message-ID: <0c4f01c99c40$17140dc0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My question is: What connections do I use to run the motor for a few > minutes to be sure everything is OK. I don't seem to be able to find the > right combination and the manual is no help. Bill, did you not get my reply last Saturday? If making the connection to terminals 1 and 2 does not make the motor run continuously, then there is something wrong with your motor. Terminal 2 normally gets power from the green wire (regardless of positive or negative ground); while Terminal 1 gets grounded by the switch (black/green wire) to make the motor run continuously. The internal park switch connects terminal 1 to ground until the motor is in it's "parked" position. This is assuming you have the correct motor for a 58 TR3A. Earlier TR2-3 used a different motor without a park switch; but it should still run continuously with power applied between the two terminals. Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Mar 3 13:40:13 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 15:40:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB6A5762723B5C-12D8-A13@FWM-D31.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: TR250Driver at aol.com Hey Andy, Technically you are correct. I have never seen the chrome air cleaners, the only period alloy valve cover is the factory optional TR3 one that is way cool and allowed but if there were more and it can be documented as period then I would be OK with it. I have an Amco grille guard on my Showroom Stock TR3B along with those really hard to find little Amco rear bumper add on's that wrap around the rear wings, remember those? ==AM== Loved those guards...sorta like nerf bars! Oh, and notwithstanding Brad's and my sidebar on chromed original early TR4 AC air cleaners, I was alluding more to aftermarket ones (like the ones with "SU" on them) rather than a chromed factory air cleaner. ==AM== BTW, with another club I was once told that if I presented my TR4 with those American Racing Silverstone Mags on it in Concours one more time it would be judged like it had no wheels on it at all. No Kidding another participant was whining about it big time! What did I do? I documented those wheels as period equipment and got the club to change their rules. That process is certainly available to any VTR member. ==AM== Glad you were able to straighten out that other club! I'm surprised that anyone would have been unaware of the availability of the Silverstones! ==AM== Just for clarity you are partly correct, however starting with the NATC in Texas we are now allowing stainless steel exhaust systems. I changed this in part due to popular demand but primarily since some models no longer have mild steel systems available anywhere. Sort of like the tire size rules. BTW this rule was not reinterpreted during my watch. It was that way since I started judging in the 1990 NATC in Boulder, CO. so I would dispute the "recent years claim." I even suffered this deduction on my TR6 in Cincinnati, I forget the year but it was way back. What did I do? I changed back to mild steel. I guess that doesn't get me anything now, Huh? ==AM== I happened across the statement in an issue of TVT; don't remember which one, but it was just pre-number 100...so maybe four years ago? ==AM== --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 13:42:46 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 15:42:46 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 3:15:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: (It's never too soon to recruit judges, eh Darrell?) For Sure, So if any of you "Good Ole Buddies" want to give it a try please don't be bashful. One change being made this year that is going to help is that the judged Concours will be conducted on Friday morning. Now I can have time to pour over the score sheets and look for mistakes before the final results are needed. The fact is that I do find some mistakes when I go over them at home and occasionally I will change some point totals. It will be nice to be able to go to a team captain and say that "your category judge should have only deducted 1.5 pts. for that chrome air cleaner not the full 3 pts. do you agree?" Plus I will be able to go back to a car and inspect it myself with the team captain if any controversial deductions are present. We may or may not have to consult with the owners to clear things up. I am looking forward to that. Cheers, Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 14:02:41 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 16:02:41 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 3:41:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: I happened across the statement in an issue of TVT; don't remember which one, but it was just pre-number 100...so maybe four years ago? Yeah Andy, OK, that sounds like something I would say, using the excuse that stainless was a difference in material. Honest Injun I was just trying to be consistent with what had happened in the past as I knew it. I was really pissed when I was whammed by a lot for my brand new stainless system on the TR6. It cost me first place. That was back in the days when there really were no guidelines for point deductions and you got your scoresheets back at the banquet. There was dang near a riot outside the banquet room as we all poured over our score sheets. A bunch of us got nailed for radios. I even got nailed for no shoulder harnesses in a 71 car. A big deduction for a very small and fresh oil leak from my oil pressure line. I will never forget it. Soon after George Rabey wrote the Concours Rules which I have kept intact for the most part. Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Mar 3 14:09:21 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 16:09:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Now I can have time to pour over the score sheets and look for mistakes before the final results are needed. Hmmmm... Exactly what are you going to pour over the score sheets? The owners might not want them afterwards. Or do you mean "pore over"? From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Mar 3 14:31:35 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 16:31:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info References: Message-ID: <677A6E56F2FB457FA4732CC125707E04@fred8kwiskhcfu> The owners are not allowed to even look at the score sheets, much less have them. "FT" ========================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Herrera" To: ; ; "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 4:09 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info > Now I can have time to pour over the score sheets and look for mistakes > before the final results are needed. > > > > Hmmmm... Exactly what are you going to pour over the score sheets? The > owners > might not want them afterwards. > > > > Or do you mean "pore over"? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 14:44:37 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 16:44:37 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 4:09:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: Or do you mean "pore over"? YES **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Mar 3 14:53:38 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 13:53:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <677A6E56F2FB457FA4732CC125707E04@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <677A6E56F2FB457FA4732CC125707E04@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: Fred is correct, or at least that is the iron bound rule used by SCCA Judges, at true Concours d'Elegance events. >The owners are not allowed to even look at the score sheets, much >less have them. "FT" >========================================================================================================== -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 14:57:56 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 16:57:56 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 4:32:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: The owners are not allowed to even look at the score sheets, much less have them. That is a correct statement Fred What they now get at the banquet is a Summary Score. I will see if I can get it posted on the VTR Website. It will tell the owners how did in each of the four categories by listing the total deductions for each and a total overall score. For detail of components that received deductions an owner can contact me after the convention. I will then provide a detailed analysis of the components that received deductions and the reason stated of the form. I do not provide the amount of points deducted for any individual component and under no circumstances do I provide the actual scoresheets to any owners in accordance to VTR Rule. I keep all those on file and if I see a repeat car being entered in Concours I bring the previous scoresheet to the Convention as a reference to the team captains and myself. Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Mar 3 15:01:17 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 17:01:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Testing the wiper motor Message-ID: <20090303170117.CAR82271@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Bill B wrote: > the motor ran a few seconds then stopped. Of course, > this is what it is supposed to do when it is turned off No, this is what it is supposed to do when it is raining. Try it again on a dry day. -- Jim Muller just trying to help From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Mar 3 15:13:25 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 17:13:25 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 2:42:46 PM Central Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > One change being made this year that is going to help is that the judged > Concours will be conducted on Friday morning. The sooner the better, in my opinion. The VTR policy is that any damage or dirt accumulated after leaving home for the VTR will be considered as not there (i.e., no deduct points) concours participants tend to avoid using their cars before the concours event. The Austin Healey group (at least Central/East coast club if not the Pacific coast club) holds their concours on the first or second day meaning the drivers can enjoy the rest of the events without concern of how stone chips might effect their concours score. Hint hint. Dave From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 15:56:22 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 17:56:22 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 5:17:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: The Austin Healey group (at least Central/East coast club if not the Pacific coast club) holds their concours on the first or second day meaning the drivers can enjoy the rest of the events without concern of how stone chips might effect their concours score. Dave, I have heard of that. I believe the Porsche club does the same thing. Get them out early and get them judged so the fun can begin. It's a bitch getting deductions for rubber shavings in you rear wheel wells after the autox. Did you do that in Minnesota to my TR8? Just curious if I could milk some info out of the TR7 & 8 Team Captain that year. I know I got docked for the stainless exhaust for I told you to do it. Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 16:44:28 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 18:44:28 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 11:55:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, allegrorover at mac.com writes: The discussion on the modified cars is unclear to me as well. It appears that all cars that are in that class are judged together whether it is a 3, 4 , or whatever, even if there were enough cars of the same type to make up a class, three I believe. Tony, The Modified class is split into two groups now, Touring & Prepared. All models are grouped together in class. Further breakdowns may occur according to the pre registered numbers but not necessarily in accordance to the Showroom Stock rule of three or more. I.E. Three Heralds pre registered get their own class. We split the Modified Touring class in Valley Forge into two groups; 1954 to 1968 & 1969 on. In Michigan we split them even further but I do not recall the exact method. Bottom line is that if you pre register and actually show up, VTR will accomidate the numbers and award throphies accordingly. Darrell **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219957551x1201325337/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Mar 3 16:49:49 2009 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 18:49:49 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 5:14:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: concours participants tend to avoid using their cars before the concours event. hmm.... I've never done that. Cheers, Jack Mc **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 3 17:20:15 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 19:20:15 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/3/2009 6:49:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, McGaheyRx writes: hmm.... I've never done that. Cheers, Jack Mc Yeah Jack, You just get up at 6 am on the morning of the show like all us other diehards and clean your butt off till it's time for the judges breakfast then after that's done you go back out to clean some more. No problem as Ivan Love once told me: Every hour of driving equals two hours of cleaning. You know we are all kind of slipping too, Huh? I don't see Don Elliot out there at the crack of dawn removing his grille on his TR3A just to clean the bugs off his radiator gathered during the 1000 mile trip from Canada to the NATC. Black car too, what a bummer to prepare. But you know he always managed to do it. His partner Bill Gray also with a Black TR3A was always the first guy out. I once proclaimed I would never be out cleaned by anyone. Those days are long gone for me, but it is my hope that some of you will get into it. That's why we prepare to judge your Triumphs. Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Mar 3 17:47:58 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 16:47:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Actually AnnaBelle and I make it a practice to drive the TR6 to the event, participate in the Event Drive and then drive home (hopefully). Our goal is for a podium finish, and if not, then we had a really good parking place. So far She (AnnaBelle presents her car) has had several podium finishes, including 1st in class. >In a message dated 3/3/2009 5:14:03 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, >Dave1massey at cs.com writes: > >concours participants tend to avoid using their cars >before the concours event. -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 3 18:10:18 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 17:10:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] FS: TR3A project in Monrovia, CA listed on Craigslist Message-ID: <0cb801c99c65$fe8d68c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> I've forgotten who it was looking for a TR3 project, so I'm bombing the list instead. I know nothing else about the car except what is listed. However I go near Monrovia on most weekends, so I could perhaps stop for a look if someone is serious about buying it. Can't believe it runs very well with #4 sparkplug missing, and I don't see a left rear tire either. Caveat Emptor. -- Randall From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Mar 3 17:23:54 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 17:23:54 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090303172354.1eb7576a@pop.west.cox.net> Geez guys, your scaring me...I was going to drive the GT6 from here in San Diego to the event, participate in the concours, have fun, then drive home. While my paint is pretty good, it's not perfect. Heck I drive this car and it has some road nicks on the front especially along the lower valance. If you get dinged for road debris (rubber in the wheel wells etc) then I would be sunk!! :-) The suspension pieces have road nicks and some dirt from years of driving. they aren't particularly bad, but certainly not perfect showroom pieces. The shocks, while Konis and period correct if I read things right, are still orange, but road worn -- I repainted the car, but that was 20 some years ago - if it has to be showroom new and spotless underneath and out I'll never make it!! Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From tr3a at comcast.net Tue Mar 3 18:28:57 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Tue, 03 Mar 2009 20:28:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090303172354.1eb7576a@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090303172354.1eb7576a@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <49ADD959.6050406@comcast.net> You have to go anyway, Barry! Just to thumb your nose at the trailer queens! :) Barry Schwartz wrote: Geez guys, your scaring me...I was going to drive the GT6 from here in San Diego to the event, participate in the concours, have fun, then drive home. While my paint is pretty good, it's not perfect. Heck I drive this car and it has some road nicks on the front especially along the lower valance. If you get dinged for road debris (rubber in the wheel wells etc) then I would be sunk!! :-) The suspension pieces have road nicks and some dirt from years of driving. they aren't particularly bad, but certainly not perfect showroom pieces. The shocks, while Konis and period correct if I read things right, are still orange, but road worn -- I repainted the car, but that was 20 some years ago - if it has to be showroom new and spotless underneath and out I'll never make it!! Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 3 18:46:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 17:46:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <49ADD959.6050406@comcast.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090303172354.1eb7576a@pop.west.cox.net> <49ADD959.6050406@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0cd101c99c6b$0f5c22e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > if it has to be showroom new and > spotless > underneath and out I'll never make it!! Sounds like a perfect candidate for the FUNcours then! We love cars that are driven. They're more interesting than a trailer queen, any day of the week. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 3 18:48:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 17:48:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] FS: TR3A project in Monrovia, CA listed on Craigslist - the link would help! Message-ID: <0cd201c99c6b$57741970$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> I've forgotten who it was looking for a TR3 project, so I'm bombing the list instead. I know nothing else about the car except what is listed. However I go near Monrovia on most weekends, so I could perhaps stop for a look if someone is serious about buying it. Can't believe it runs very well with #4 sparkplug missing, and I don't see a left rear tire either. Caveat Emptor. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/cto/1054528076.html -- Randall From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Tue Mar 3 20:26:01 2009 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2009 19:26:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <0cd101c99c6b$0f5c22e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <3.0.4.16.20090303172354.1eb7576a@pop.west.cox.net> <49ADD959.6050406@comcast.net> <0cd101c99c6b$0f5c22e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000c01c99c78$f21aa1d0$d64fe570$@rr.com> Yeah, I agree, Randall. Maybe we'll get more Funcours converts after the San Luis Obispo event. I have standard insurance on my car because I can't stay inside the 5000 mile rule. But it looks good, runs fast and can listen to ZZ Top with the top down. And it leaves it's mark wherever I go. I'll be very interested to see the trailer queens, but for my money I'll look at the "character" cars with more interest. Maybe Obama is right in one regards, it's time for a change!!! Johnnie '67 TR4A Multiple Golds in Funcours and Autocrosses -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2009 5:47 PM Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info > if it has to be showroom new and > spotless > underneath and out I'll never make it!! Sounds like a perfect candidate for the FUNcours then! We love cars that are driven. They're more interesting than a trailer queen, any day of the week. -- Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pdonnel1 at san.rr.com http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Tue Mar 3 21:09:23 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 04:09:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <000c01c99c78$f21aa1d0$d64fe570$@rr.com> Message-ID: <1298260219.2909811236139763738.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "John & Pat Donnelly" wrote: > I'll be very interested to see the trailer queens, but for my money > I'll > look at the "character" cars with more interest. You want character? Our TR4 will show you plenty of it. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From ashleys at kinect.co.nz Wed Mar 4 00:28:14 2009 From: ashleys at kinect.co.nz (ashley southgate) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 20:28:14 +1300 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: testing new laptop Ashley From ashleys at kinect.co.nz Wed Mar 4 00:42:41 2009 From: ashleys at kinect.co.nz (ashley southgate) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 20:42:41 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR3-3A-3B Lever Tie Rod Message-ID: <181E0CFDFA1C4C5D8684CC9B7DDF52DD@AshleysPC> Hi! Can someone with spare stock of lever tie rods RH 106576 and LH 106575 that bolts to vertile link please contact me,i need a couple of sets. Regards Ashley From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Mar 4 00:45:04 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 07:45:04 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info References: Message-ID: <4D9B072F8FFF420F89641117F0325274@Bevan> Hi, Darrell > You just get up at 6 am on the morning of the show like all us other > diehards and clean your butt off till it's time for the judges breakfast then after > that's done you go back out to clean some more. Ivan Love once > told me: Every hour of driving equals two hours of cleaning. Ye Gods! I was planning on entering the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Stag (just for fun - or isn't that allowed?) in for the Charles Macartney Driver Award. My only grounds are that I think the car could demonstrate evidence of recent use. Mind you, I would have absolutely no expectation of even getting a place so it would be just for fun. But having read this, I suspect I'd be completely barred anyway. After the better part of 10,000 miles over three months, I'd have to start cleaning now!!! Better by far, to park the car somewhere inconspicuous and let it enjoy all the bugs that committed suicide on it during the trip. Methinks that all Triumphs without exception since the dawn of time have done that. Jonmac From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 4 05:51:07 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 04 Mar 2009 07:51:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB6ADF056D334A-28C-1D17@WEBMAIL-MB09.sysops.aol.com> If you are talking about Red Wing, I have no recollection of what class I judged.? At Hudson I judged Spitfires. Hmm.? The further back I go the better the recollection.? What could that mean? Dave I have heard of that.? I believe the Porsche club does the same thing. Get them out early and get them judged so the fun can begin.? It's a bitch getting deductions for rubber shavings in you rear wheel wells after the autox.?? Did you do that in Minnesota to my TR8?? Just curious if I could milk some info out of the TR7 & 8 Team Captain that year.? I know I got docked for the stainless exhaust for I told you to do it. ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 4 06:01:14 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 04 Mar 2009 08:01:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <49ADBA4C.6010105@dfn.com> References: <49ADBA4C.6010105@dfn.com> Message-ID: <8CB6AE06EF156FA-28C-1D86@WEBMAIL-MB09.sysops.aol.com> Hmmm.? Good point.? That doesn't prohibit removing a contender from consideration if he fails to follow through on the requirement but that doesn't prevent the judging of cars that ultimately do not qualify for this reason.? But when you consider just how low the bar is (the funkahna qualifies) that is not likely to be violated on a frequent basis. But some accounting mechanism needs to be set up to follow up on this.? Perhaps the team captains will do the verification and report back to the Chief Judge.? And the concours participant is encouraged, requested, required to check in with the team captain. Thanks for bringing it up. Dave The sooner the better, in my opinion. The VTR policy is that any damage or dirt accumulated after leaving home for the VTR will be considered as not there (i.e., no deduct points) concours participants tend to avoid using their cars before the concours event. The Austin Healey group (at least Central/East coast club if not the Pacific coast club) holds their concours on the first or second day meaning the drivers can enjoy the rest of the events without concern of how stone chips might effect their concours score. Hint hint. Doesn't that procedure sort of fly in the face of the present requirement to participate in some number of moving events in order to qualify for concours? ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From peterara at msn.com Wed Mar 4 06:03:43 2009 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 05:03:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] triumphest/VTR Message-ID: In all this talk of concours don't forget that there will also be a funcours which will be much less strict. This is the tradition of Triumphest - have fun. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 4 06:17:01 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 04 Mar 2009 08:17:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB6AE2A37C106A-28C-1E6F@WEBMAIL-MB09.sysops.aol.com> Bill, you are our prototype Triumph owner.? As is HVDP.? And Don Elliot (mentioned in Darrell's post).? Jack and Darrell, on the other hand trailer to the events.? They both drive with great panache and enthusiasm when they are there but then trailer back home.? There should be a special prize for those who drive to and from the event.? (But then, Herman would win it every year) Dave (Making plans to drive the 2000 miles to San Luis Obispo) P.S.? Darrel, Jack, just kidding. Actually AnnaBelle and I make it a practice to drive the TR6 to the event, participate in the Event Drive and then drive home (hopefully). Our goal is for a podium finish, and if not, then we had a really good parking place.? So far She (AnnaBelle presents her car) has had several podium finishes, including 1st in class.? ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From trmarty at hotmail.com Wed Mar 4 07:08:12 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 09:08:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: <8CB6AE2A37C106A-28C-1E6F@WEBMAIL-MB09.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB6AE2A37C106A-28C-1E6F@WEBMAIL-MB09.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Dang, I must be doing something wrong. I trailer my cars to these events but for some reason I'm always asked to park around back. I even wash them before I leave home......sometimes. The good news is the cars I park next to usually score higher than they normally would:) Marty > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 08:17:01 -0500 > From: dave1massey at cs.com > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info > > Bill, you are our prototype Triumph owner.? As is HVDP.? And Don Elliot (mentioned in Darrell's post).? Jack and Darrell, on the other hand trailer to the events.? They both drive with great panache and enthusiasm when they are there but then trailer back home.? There should be a special prize for those who drive to and from the event.? (But then, Herman would win it every year) > > Dave (Making plans to drive the 2000 miles to San Luis Obispo) > > P.S.? Darrel, Jack, just kidding. > > > > Actually AnnaBelle and I make it a practice to drive the TR6 to the > event, participate in the Event Drive and then drive home > (hopefully). Our goal is for a podium finish, and if not, then we > had a really good parking place.? > > So far She (AnnaBelle presents her car) has had several podium > finishes, including 1st in class.? > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Contacts: Organize your contact list. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/marcusatmicrosoft.spaces.live.com-Blog-cn s!503D1D86EBB2B53C!2285.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_UGC_Contacts_032009 From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Wed Mar 4 08:19:42 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 10:19:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info In-Reply-To: References: <8CB6AE2A37C106A-28C-1E6F@WEBMAIL-MB09.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <37CD3A23-CF73-4479-81F4-C5D402272887@blakedischer.com> If I drive out, it'll be in my TR6 which I'd normally enter in People's Choice. (She's no concours car, maybe a 7-1/2 on a 10-point scale; a "10-footer" on the stand-this-far-away scale.) This year, the Funcours is replacing the People's Choice category. When I went to Triumphest a couple years ago in Laughlin, NV, I thought it was very cool how each entrant, in front of their car, had the blanket with "stuff" pertaining to their car. So I've got to get crackin' on what I can put together for my display. Something new, and something that should be fun to put together. BTW, there are several Special Awards that some listers may not be aware of. Details here: http://vtr.org/faq/index.shtml#q3.1 One other thought, this might be the first year that Herman does NOT win the long-distance award! Cheers, Blake Discher, Detroit From dncullig at us.ibm.com Wed Mar 4 12:30:27 2009 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 14:30:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: >There should be a special prize for those >who drive to and from the event. I believe a Jag club tried this years ago. They gave it up when it was determined (after the fact) that the award winner had trailered his car to within 20 miles of the event and then claimed he'd driven hundreds of miles (what some people will do for a $10 trophy!). >Every hour of driving equals two hours of cleaning No one cleaned a car like Jim Holewka from NJTA. He'd drive one of his TR6s to the event, thoroughly thrash it and then put it up on jackstands in the hotel parking lot and spend hours cleaning it inside and out. And he has the trophies to prove it can be done. >Herman would win it every year. If there's a Long Distance Award this year, I'm guessing it will be hard to beat a Stag driven by a Mr. Macartney. Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From bob at texmog.com Wed Mar 4 12:43:48 2009 From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 13:43:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 Message-ID: <41A004341B3C4CA8B97D312BCA77B85D@CARROOM> I'm missing some of the nuts for the head studs on the engine I am building ( with the much appreciated help of many on this list). I have some Grade 8 nuts that I was planning on using but after reading Uncle Jacks Engine Rebuilding Tips I see where he recommends the use of 'Hardened and Ground' washers. Which got me to wondering if Grade 8 nuts also not be appropriate. So the question do I use Grade 8 nuts with the old washers, new grade 8 washers and nuts or find someone who can supply hardened nuts and washers? Also if I have to get new nuts any recommendations? NWBP does not carry them. Thanks in advance for any help Bob Nogueira From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Mar 4 12:38:30 2009 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 14:38:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Once again this august list, and resulting archive, proves a wealth of information. Late last year, my brake master cylinder seals failed and distributed DOT 4 around the mounting bracket and driver's side engine bay and firewall. The paint turned to a putty-like consistency and could be easily scraped to bare metal. I decided to take the winter 'off' regards the TR4, and have only now attended to this issue. With the paint replaced, I rebuilt my master cylinders and read up the DOT 5 switchover posts from the archive. Why switch to DOT 5? It is benign to paint, its now readily available. It costs slightly more initially, but as it doesn't soak up water, it need not be replaced every three years or so (so is actually cheaper than DOT 4, I think). On switching to DOT 5, we have two schools of thought: One advises to replaces everything rubber, clean all lines with a particular solvent, blow out solvent with dry air, then introduce DOT 5 after this thorough rebuild. The solvent is available from pharmacies (Methyl alcohol, as I recall). The other suggests removing and DOT 4 from the master cylinder by syringe (if this is not a master cylinder rebuild, and just a switch over), and pour in DOT 5, then bleed until clean, clear DOT 5 appears at the bleed nipple at each wheel. I opted for the latter of these, so I hope to have as much success as many of you have enjoyed. There was some conflicting information about bleeding wheel sequence. Many start at the left rear, then right rear, left front, right front. There was, in the archive, a Triumph service note that stated this was the correct sequence for cars with drum brakes on the front. It also stated that cars with discs on the front should be bled starting with the front left wheel, but made no mention of the subsequent sequence. I cannot work out why there would be a change in sequence with discs. Many cautioned about DOT 5 bubbles when pouring. I half expected this to behave like a shaken can of coke, but if you pour slowly there is no problem. If you pour in a way that creates bubbles, they can apparently take some time to disappear. Thanks to all those whose experiences populate the archive. Brian TR4, CT 14455-L 1962 Valley Forge, PA From DLylis at aol.com Wed Mar 4 12:49:11 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 14:49:11 EST Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2009 2:39:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com writes: There was some conflicting information about bleeding wheel sequence. Many start at the left rear, then right rear, left front, right front. There was, in the archive, a Triumph service note that stated this was the correct sequence for cars with drum brakes on the front. It also stated that cars with discs on the front should be bled starting with the front left wheel, but made no mention of the subsequent sequence. I cannot work out why there would be a change in sequence with discs. I am not the best mechanic, but can hold my own. All my life (and it is getting longer every day) I have bled brakes on the principal that you bleed the longest run of brake line first and move toward the shortest. On a TR 3 - 4 that would be left rear, right rear, left front, right front, as the junction of brake lines is on the right side of the car. On a TR6 that would be right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I don't know why the type of brakes would make a difference. I am also aware that some think sequence does not matter. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) From DLylis at aol.com Wed Mar 4 12:50:42 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 14:50:42 EST Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2009 2:38:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, bob at texmog.com writes: I'm missing some of the nuts for the head studs on the engine I am building ( with the much appreciated help of many on this list). Hey, we had nothing to do with you losing your nuts! (wink) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) From wbeech at flash.net Wed Mar 4 12:53:16 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 12:53:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 In-Reply-To: <41A004341B3C4CA8B97D312BCA77B85D@CARROOM> References: <41A004341B3C4CA8B97D312BCA77B85D@CARROOM> Message-ID: <3638A35A66FA45D48038E290FCCB2613@sniffer> I haven't looked yet but try McMasters-Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bob at texmog.com Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 12:44 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 I'm missing some of the nuts for the head studs on the engine I am building ( with the much appreciated help of many on this list). I have some Grade 8 nuts that I was planning on using but after reading Uncle Jacks Engine Rebuilding Tips I see where he recommends the use of 'Hardened and Ground' washers. Which got me to wondering if Grade 8 nuts also not be appropriate. So the question do I use Grade 8 nuts with the old washers, new grade 8 washers and nuts or find someone who can supply hardened nuts and washers? Also if I have to get new nuts any recommendations? NWBP does not carry them. Thanks in advance for any help Bob Nogueira This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Wed Mar 4 12:52:00 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 14:52:00 EST Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 Message-ID: I should have read on! I think I got my washers from Moss. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 4 13:01:11 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 12:01:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 In-Reply-To: <41A004341B3C4CA8B97D312BCA77B85D@CARROOM> References: <41A004341B3C4CA8B97D312BCA77B85D@CARROOM> Message-ID: <0dc301c99d03$f8197350$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > So the question do I use Grade 8 nuts with the old washers, new grade 8 > washers and nuts or find someone who can supply hardened nuts and washers? I reuse the old washers if they are in good shape, otherwise I use some hardened washers that I found at McMaster-Carr. Note that the washers are a special size, with both smaller inside diameter and smaller outside diameter than common 1/2" washers. The ones I have from MMC were correct id (billed as 12mm IIRC), and only slightly larger od. Unfortunately, they did not carry them the last time I checked. Even the factory washers weren't really hard enough, IMO, which is how they get chewed up so badly. The forces on those studs are tremendous, and the washers have relatively little contact area, so soft washers actually crush and lose tension. I believe the ones that uncle jack suggested are actually harder than Grade 8. > Also if I have to get new nuts any recommendations? NWBP does not carry > them. I got mine from British Frame and Engine. However they sell extra-tall nuts that are visibly different than the original ones. Look better to my eye, but a Concours judge might not agree. http://www.britishframeandengine.com/parts1.html Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Mar 4 13:05:07 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 15:05:07 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2009 2:35:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, dncullig at us.ibm.com writes: No one cleaned a car like Jim Holewka from NJTA. He'd drive one of his TR6s to the event, thoroughly thrash it and then put it up on jackstands in the hotel parking lot and spend hours cleaning it inside and out. And he has the trophies to prove it can be done Dennis, Yes it was always a pleasure to lose to Jimmy and his Royal Blue 69 TR6 which I did quite often. Even more fun was the bottomless cooler of Newcastles in the parking lot the nite the Concours. Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 4 13:34:45 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 15:34:45 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphest/VTR info Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2009 8:08:31 AM Central Standard Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > Dang, I must be doing something wrong. I trailer my cars to these events > but > for some reason I'm always asked to park around back. I even wash them > before > I leave home......sometimes. The good news is the cars I park next to > usually > score higher than they normally would:) > Sure, Marty, but none of them are as fast as you. ;-) Dave From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Mar 4 16:15:56 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 23:15:56 -0000 Subject: [TR] Charles Macartney Daily Driver Award question References: <66FEFB2F-EF49-4215-8AFF-50F6B3B6100D@vtr.org> Message-ID: Blake *Very* important sematics here that I need to clarify to avoid carefully veiled mutterings and whispered criticisms of 'jumping on bandwagons.' You wrote: Jonmac's post on the Triumph forum about entering his 10,000-mile Stag in the CMDDA competition got me to thinking... I'm sure that was an unintended oversight - but the record must be put straight without further delay. The Stag is not, has not been and will not be *my* car, I'll only be driving it. Merely in order to comply with Federal and State laws, "uncle jack" (in memory of Jack Drews) is/will be titled in Joe Pawlak's name because we can't title it jointly in the names of all those fabulous people who pledged over $6500 to buy it! Neither can we title it to additionally include all the others at Illinois Sports Owners Assoc (under Joe Pawlak's watchful eye), who gave up valuable driving time last summer to work on it. Furthermore, it intrinsically belongs (in lots of small pieces) to all the people who contributed to its initial puirchase and rebuild and later financing. I'm sure you'll understand that I feel obligated to make this perhaps rather semantic declaration but if it wasn't for so many people being so generous and supportive in so many ways, this whole event just wouldn't have happened at all. For my part, I'll have the time of my life undertaking this forthcoming Drive of a Lifetime - but I'm also very mindful of the heavy responsibility on my shoulders of getting it there in one piece for others to (hopefully) admire. The thought of entering it for the CMDDA was merely to acknowledge all that support and for absolutely no other motive that could even remotely be billed as self-gratification on my part. Cheers, Jonmac From tom628 at verizon.net Wed Mar 4 20:43:01 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Wed, 04 Mar 2009 22:43:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif References: Message-ID: <572F7D22E11A45FA8876B114B71DF273@Toms> Aren't the front and rear brake circuits in the TR6 separate systems, isolated from each other with separate MC chambers? If so, I'd think you could start at either front or rear. Unless I'm missing something. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 2:49 PM Subject: Re: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif > In a message dated 3/4/2009 2:39:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com writes: > > There was some conflicting information about bleeding wheel sequence. > Many > start at the left rear, then right rear, left front, right front. There > was, in the archive, a Triumph service note that stated this was the > correct sequence for cars with drum brakes on the front. It also stated > that cars with discs on the front should be bled starting with the front > left wheel, but made no mention of the subsequent sequence. I cannot work > out why there would be a change in sequence with discs. > > > > I am not the best mechanic, but can hold my own. All my life (and it is > getting longer every day) I have bled brakes on the principal that you > bleed the > longest run of brake line first and move toward the shortest. On a TR > 3 - 4 > that would be left rear, right rear, left front, right front, as the > junction of brake lines is on the right side of the car. On a TR6 that > would be > right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I don't know why the > type of > brakes would make a difference. I am also aware that some think sequence > does > not matter. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 4 21:24:32 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 20:24:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: <572F7D22E11A45FA8876B114B71DF273@Toms> Message-ID: <20090305042433.HFVM28145.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Aren't the front and rear brake circuits in the TR6 separate > systems, isolated from each other with separate MC chambers? > If so, I'd think you could start at either front or rear. > Unless I'm missing something. Possibly that the OP has a TR4 ? Randall From tom628 at verizon.net Wed Mar 4 21:57:10 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Wed, 04 Mar 2009 23:57:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif References: <20090305042433.HFVM28145.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <2CF98EEF8D324E44BA8A4AD06E3FBF54@Toms> You're right Randall. I guess I was addressing the inclusion of the TR6 by Dave. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'TR List'" Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 11:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif >> Aren't the front and rear brake circuits in the TR6 separate >> systems, isolated from each other with separate MC chambers? >> If so, I'd think you could start at either front or rear. >> Unless I'm missing something. > > Possibly that the OP has a TR4 ? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 4 22:24:51 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 21:24:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: <2CF98EEF8D324E44BA8A4AD06E3FBF54@Toms> Message-ID: <20090305052451.WOB15930.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> FWIW, my TR6 workshop manual says, in effect, that you can do either front or rear first, starting with the wheel that is farthest from the MC. Well, actually what it says is to do only the side that has been opened, but it amounts to the same thing. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Thu Mar 5 06:23:40 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 08:23:40 EST Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 3/4/2009 10:43:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tom628 at verizon.net writes: Aren't the front and rear brake circuits in the TR6 separate systems, isolated from each other with separate MC chambers? If so, I'd think you could start at either front or rear. Unless I'm missing something. Tom, You are right, however you failed to account for the Old Dog, New Tricks factor. David David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Mar 5 07:53:35 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 14:53:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 In-Reply-To: <41A004341B3C4CA8B97D312BCA77B85D@CARROOM> References: <41A004341B3C4CA8B97D312BCA77B85D@CARROOM> Message-ID: You may be able to get the hardened and ground washers at you LFAPS. They are usedon Chevy 350 heads. Best regards, Tom > From: bob at texmog.com > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2009 13:43:48 -0600 > Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 > > I'm missing some of the nuts for the head studs on the engine I am building > ( with the much appreciated help of many on this list). I have some Grade 8 > nuts that I was planning on using but after reading Uncle Jacks Engine > Rebuilding Tips I see where he recommends the use of 'Hardened and Ground' > washers. Which got me to wondering if Grade 8 nuts also not be appropriate. > So the question do I use Grade 8 nuts with the old washers, new grade 8 > washers and nuts or find someone who can supply hardened nuts and washers? > > Also if I have to get new nuts any recommendations? NWBP does not carry > them. > > Thanks in advance for any help > > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Contacts: Organize your contact list. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/marcusatmicrosoft.spaces.live.com-Blog-cn s!503D1D86EBB2B53C!2285.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_UGC_Contacts_032009 From wbmcleod at gmail.com Thu Mar 5 10:35:25 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (Bill McLeod) Date: Thu, 05 Mar 2009 10:35:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spridgets] It's that time again In-Reply-To: <617971791.20090305090803@pacifier.com> References: <617971791.20090305090803@pacifier.com> Message-ID: <49B00D5D.2090808@gmail.com> Speaking of that time again.... It's about time we sent the Fat Chance Garage some money so Mark can have a little cover for all the hours and all the money he spends running this and other lists. Bill M Bill L wrote: > Hello Spridgets, > > Daylight savings time changes this weekend. That means it's > been 6 months since the last time all the ZERKS in our cars > were lubed. Time to get out the grease gun and hit the > fittings. > > > just a friendly reminder. > > Also, .. ya'll may have heard it, but... > > I want to die in my sleep like my Grampa, not screaming in > terror like the passengers in his car. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Mar 5 11:12:54 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 10:12:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 Message-ID: <296136.72726.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I used extra thick nuts purchased from British Frame & Engine that were 50% thicker than the originals. He claimed they hold better torque without stretching threads. It worked for me. Bill in Tehachapi Subject: [TR] Nuts for the Head Studs TR-3 To: Message-ID: <41A004341B3C4CA8B97D312BCA77B85D at CARROOM> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I'm missing some of the nuts for the head studs on the engine I am building ( with the much appreciated help of many on this list). I have some Grade 8 nuts that I was planning on using but after reading Uncle Jacks Engine Rebuilding Tips I see where he recommends the use of 'Hardened and Ground' washers. Which got me to wondering if Grade 8 nuts also not be appropriate. So the question do I use Grade 8 nuts with the old washers, new grade 8 washers and nuts or find someone who can supply hardened nuts and washers? Also if I have to get new nuts any recommendations? NWBP does not carry them. Thanks in advance for any help Bob Nogueira From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Mar 5 14:49:18 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 15:49:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spridgets] It's that time again In-Reply-To: <49B00D5D.2090808@gmail.com> References: <617971791.20090305090803@pacifier.com> <49B00D5D.2090808@gmail.com> Message-ID: Done Thanks for the reminder. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2009 10:35:25 -0700 > From: wbmcleod at gmail.com > To: spridgets at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] [Spridgets] It's that time again > > Speaking of that time again.... > It's about time we sent the Fat Chance Garage some money so Mark can > have a little cover for all the hours and all the money he spends > running this and other lists. > Bill M > > Bill L wrote: > > Hello Spridgets, > > > > Daylight savings time changes this weekend. That means it's > > been 6 months since the last time all the ZERKS in our cars > > were lubed. Time to get out the grease gun and hit the > > fittings. > > > > > > just a friendly reminder. > > > > Also, .. ya'll may have heard it, but... > > > > I want to die in my sleep like my Grampa, not screaming in > > terror like the passengers in his car. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Mar 5 17:52:41 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 05 Mar 2009 19:52:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif References: Message-ID: Hey, that's nothing Dave. I still get in my fuel injected Dakota, and can't stop myself from depressing the accelerator before starting from cold, in order to set the non-existent automatic choke. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: tom628 at verizon.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 8:23 AM Subject: Re: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif In a message dated 3/4/2009 10:43:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tom628 at verizon.net writes: Aren't the front and rear brake circuits in the TR6 separate systems, isolated from each other with separate MC chambers? If so, I'd think you could start at either front or rear. Unless I'm missing something. Tom, You are right, however you failed to account for the Old Dog, New Tricks factor. David David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Mar 5 19:49:21 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 05 Mar 2009 21:49:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] DOT 5 Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49B048E1.15561.116AD59B@localhost> On 5 Mar 2009 at 19:52, Tom Note wrote: > I still get in my fuel injected Dakota, and can't stop myself > from depressing the accelerator before starting from cold, in > order to set the non-existent automatic choke. When I got my Spitfire it took me a long time to stop pumping the non- existent accelerator pump as an aid to cold-weather starting. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Mar 5 21:48:33 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 05 Mar 2009 20:48:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] Car Habits (was DOT 5 Brake Fluif) In-Reply-To: <49B048E1.15561.116AD59B@localhost> References: <49B048E1.15561.116AD59B@localhost> Message-ID: <49B0AB21.7030605@comcast.net> My daily driver is an old diesel Isuzu Trooper. In the rare instances that I drive my wifes gas Volvo, I find myself waiting for the non-existent glow plugs to preheat. Jim Muller wrote: > On 5 Mar 2009 at 19:52, Tom Note wrote: > > >> I still get in my fuel injected Dakota, and can't stop myself >> from depressing the accelerator before starting from cold, in >> order to set the non-existent automatic choke. >> > > When I got my Spitfire it took me a long time to stop pumping the non- > existent accelerator pump as an aid to cold-weather starting. From roggez at bigpond.net.au Thu Mar 5 23:20:27 2009 From: roggez at bigpond.net.au (David Rogers) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2009 17:20:27 +1100 Subject: [TR] Bleeding Sequence Message-ID: David, I would add the rider to your sequence, which in principle is spot on, that the order depends on where the brake lines are routed and whether it is a right hand drive car or a left hand drive model. The brake master cylinders and distribution block on RHD TR4 and TR6 models are on the right side! As with many posts on the Digest, we right handers, (albeit probably fewer in number) sometimes grimace at the left-centric replies on many subjects. A good example is the frequent reference to drivers side and passenger side when discussing fixes, which to a world wide readership, can be a tad confusing! At least we all have left and right hand sides of all our cars, which don't change!! No flame or criticism intended! Cheers, Dave Rogers Canberra, Australia From mathews at uga.edu Fri Mar 6 04:58:58 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 06 Mar 2009 06:58:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1935 leyland Diesel Truck Video Message-ID: <49B11002.10006@uga.edu> YOu might find this a little entertaining. http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/35732-massive-engines-diesel-engine-evolution-video.htm Doug From DLylis at aol.com Fri Mar 6 06:14:08 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2009 08:14:08 EST Subject: [TR] Bleeding Sequence Message-ID: Point well taken. My view of drivers/passenger side is the result of trauma I encountered while riding with my friend in Nairobi, Kenya. As we are rocketing through the city in his RHD Jetta (appropriately named), observing local traffic law (s) which is that a red light is a mere suggestion that danger may lurk ahead, I pounded a dent in the floorboard with my right foot. Forgive me. I will work on it. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Mar 6 09:40:15 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2009 09:40:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bleeding Sequence In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0903060840p271aaf5bw182d33a2dc7e5fb0@mail.gmail.com> On Thu, Mar 5, 2009 at 11:20 PM, David Rogers wrote: > ... The brake master cylinders and distribution block on RHD TR4 and TR6 > models are on the right side!... But the distribution 'block' (front and rear) on a TR4 is on the right side even if it is a LHD car... i.e. the sequence is unaffected by the handedness (is that a word?). Geo From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Mar 6 16:56:35 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2009 15:56:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Movie Sighting Message-ID: <101296.85664.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> My wife made me watch a romantic comedy on her birthday. It was "A Guide for the Married Man" with Walter Matthau. I put a smile on my face and an arm around my wife for this corny 60's movie. Anyway, at the beginning of the movie there is an aerial shot of a blue TR3 with hood up going through the intersection. Later, it show a guy cheating on his wife and using an MG TF as his car. Another scene had a Morris Minor convertible and yet another had a red Sunbeam Alpine in the background. The movie was about male mid-life crisis. I was contemplating whether the Brit cars were included in the movie because they represent male freedom or whether the movie was just filmed in SoCal where there just happened to be a lot of LBC's in the background. Bill in Tehachapi From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Mar 6 16:59:37 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2009 15:59:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] WTB TR6 OD Trans without OD Message-ID: <87750.61058.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Awhile back someone said they had an extra overdrive transmission for a TR6 with J-type OD. I have the J-type OD, but am looking for the matching box and shaft. Does someone have the 4 speed OD box w/o the OD that they could part with at a good price? TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA From tr3a at comcast.net Fri Mar 6 17:00:35 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Fri, 06 Mar 2009 19:00:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Movie Sighting In-Reply-To: <101296.85664.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <101296.85664.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49B1B923.8070005@comcast.net> Who cares about all that stuff? It had Inger Stevens!! Oh, and..."Deny, deny, deny!" William Brewer wrote: My wife made me watch a romantic comedy on her birthday. It was "A Guide f or the Married Man" with Walter Matthau. I put a smile on my face and an arm ar ound my wife for this corny 60's movie. Anyway, at the beginning of the movie t here is an aerial shot of a blue TR3 with hood up going through the intersectio n. Later, it show a guy cheating on his wife and using an MG TF as his car. Ano ther scene had a Morris Minor convertible and yet another had a red Sunbeam Alp ine in the background. The movie was about male mid-life crisis. I was contempl ating whether the Brit cars were included in the movie because they represent m ale freedom or whether the movie was just filmed in SoCal where there just happ ened to be a lot of LBC's in the background. Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From lee at automate-it.com Fri Mar 6 18:34:01 2009 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2009 19:34:01 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Movie Sighting In-Reply-To: <49B1B923.8070005@comcast.net> References: <101296.85664.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <49B1B923.8070005@comcast.net> Message-ID: <55160.98.200.63.37.1236389641.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> > Who cares about all that stuff? It had Inger Stevens!! So you probably liked it because of this: ??? http://www.automate-it.com/photos/IngerStevens.jpg > William Brewer wrote: > > My wife made me watch a romantic comedy on her birthday. It was "A Guide > f > or the Married Man" with Walter Matthau. I put a smile on my face and an arm > ar > ound my wife for this corny 60's movie. ... From mathews at uga.edu Fri Mar 6 18:41:41 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 06 Mar 2009 20:41:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Movie Sighting In-Reply-To: <55160.98.200.63.37.1236389641.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <101296.85664.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <49B1B923.8070005@comcast.net> <55160.98.200.63.37.1236389641.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <49B1D0D5.4090707@uga.edu> Darn, they go messing up a car movie by adding GIRLS! ;-) SHOW US THE MOTOR! Doug Lee Daniels wrote: >> Who cares about all that stuff? It had Inger Stevens!! >> > > So you probably liked it because of this: ??? > http://www.automate-it.com/photos/IngerStevens.jpg > > >> William Brewer wrote: >> >> My wife made me watch a romantic comedy on her birthday. It was "A Guide >> f >> or the Married Man" with Walter Matthau. I put a smile on my face and an arm >> ar >> ound my wife for this corny 60's movie. From tr3a at comcast.net Fri Mar 6 18:54:34 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Fri, 06 Mar 2009 20:54:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Movie Sighting In-Reply-To: <55160.98.200.63.37.1236389641.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <101296.85664.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <49B1B923.8070005@comcast.net> <55160.98.200.63.37.1236389641.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <49B1D3DA.40508@comcast.net> Sure beats Joey Bishop...or Matthau!!! Don't you think? :) Lee Daniels wrote: So you probably liked it because of this: ??? http://www.automate-it.com/photos/IngerStevens.jpg From pcaffrey at ymail.com Fri Mar 6 19:12:09 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2009 18:12:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 Movie Sighting In-Reply-To: <101296.85664.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <678655.73003.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I believe the Corvette was in full swing at this time in the 60s....Interesting that Brit cars were considered the ideal, as they should be....There is an undeniable image of elan (just learned the last word) and power about them.....Good man, Bill, for sitting through the movie to pass on the really important stuff about the cars...no kidding! Pat --- On Fri, 3/6/09, William Brewer wrote: From: William Brewer Subject: [TR] TR3 Movie Sighting To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Friday, March 6, 2009, 11:56 PM My wife made me watch a romantic comedy on her birthday. It was "A Guide for the Married Man" with Walter Matthau. I put a smile on my face and an arm around my wife for this corny 60's movie. Anyway, at the beginning of the movie there is an aerial shot of a blue TR3 with hood up going through the intersection. Later, it show a guy cheating on his wife and using an MG TF as his car. Another scene had a Morris Minor convertible and yet another had a red Sunbeam Alpine in the background. The movie was about male mid-life crisis. I was contemplating whether the Brit cars were included in the movie because they represent male freedom or whether the movie was just filmed in SoCal where there just happened to be a lot of LBC's in the background. Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Mar 7 16:20:35 2009 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2009 18:20:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRs at the movies In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <433A76C7-976B-41CE-A1D4-C1BA77663B8B@comcast.net> Speaking of TRs in movies, DirecTV has recently shown, and may again, the 1961 film "Goodbye Again" from the story "Aimez-vous Brahms?". The Anthony Perkins character woos the attractive, older, Ingrid Bergman. Set in Paris, its a poignant story. Throughout, Perkins' motor is a TR3. Its worth an idle hour just to see Bergman climbing in/out of a Triumph. Brian From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sat Mar 7 16:47:38 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2009 15:47:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4 Utube Message-ID: <466150.80497.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> This?video has probably been around....Fun to watch....See link below. Pat ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9VYBWqygEc&NR=1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Mar 8 05:30:24 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 12:30:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Utube In-Reply-To: <466150.80497.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <466150.80497.qm@web59709.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Love it. The move he put on the Healey reminds me of Parnelli Jones at the 1966 Times Grand Prix at Riverside Raceway. My parents had a dirt track car in the 50s and we raced against Parnelli at Ascott. At the Times Grand Prix he was having trouble getting by a slower car. So in turn 3 (I think) when the slower car dove ti the inside and blocked him he drove straight across the dirt on the inside of the turn making the pass. I of course was standing up in the stands screaming "Go Parnelli". Best regards, Tom Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2009 15:47:38 -0800 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4 Utube This video has probably been around....Fun to watch....See link below. Pat http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j9VYBWqygEc&NR=1 _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live? Contacts: Organize your contact list. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/marcusatmicrosoft.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!503D1D86EBB2B53C!2285.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_UGC_Contacts_032009 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Mar 8 09:05:12 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 09:05:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-6 fuel line Message-ID: <868313.60233.qm@web59410.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> List, I've had some rough running problems with my tr-6 that never got fixed last fall and am thinking it might be related to gas line crud ect.?since the car has been off the road for close to 3 years now.? ?I'm considering renewing the gas line from tank to fuel pump, cleaning the tank ect..? My question is to those who have gone through this before.? Upon removing the old line did you find that the line was truely cruddy and partially plugged?? Where did you find the most serious problem?? In general did you feel line replacement was really needed or overkill?? I'm assuming?problems might be?with the connectors between lines or??might also?be near the opening in the tank to the line??but just curious.? thanks! gary n? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Mar 8 09:45:45 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 08 Mar 2009 12:45:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive In-Reply-To: <8CB6A2CB8BC47BC-153C-5F5@FWM-D31.sysops.aol.com> References: <0a7201c99b7b$ac5d2d00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <8CB6A1910779B11-1188-2058@webmail-dx09.sysops.aol.com> <8CB6A2CB8BC47BC-153C-5F5@FWM-D31.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <666DE453352F4800A4EE49740E35BF2E@CarlPC> Wow - I just checked out the sight for John's upcoming stateside trip. The guys up in Chicago have made some major headway over the last month. Take a look at: http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/. Several of you are on this list - JOB WELL DONE. On another topic - have you thought about how much it will take for John to drive these 10,000 miles, stay overnight for roughly one-hundred nights, eat 300 meals, drink 600 cups of coffee (or whatever). Sure - much will be donated through the kind hearts of the Triumph community - but a lot will not be. To help support this trip - visit http://mysite.verizon.net/res10wape/ and take a look at the shirts/hats/visors that are available that will show your support of his endeavor. All proceeds go into the trip fund. Sometime later this week, we will be announcing how to purchase a rally board so that you can be a part of this historic event. BUT regardless - do check out the efforts of Tim, Irv, Joe and crew..... Carl From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Mar 8 10:13:20 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 17:13:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] two 2 trim q's Message-ID: <759A639E-22F1-456E-88BB-3BB936D8BEF1@tcd.ie> Hi all, Thanks for advice on the footwell trimming of my TR2, as a natural follow-on here are another 2 quick questions; what is the correct door seal along the sill, clearly not the covered tubes used on A and B posts. And has anybody used adhesive carpet tape in areas under little or no stress, such as the side of the footwells? Thanks in advance John 1954 TR2 (longdoor) at it since 1996! From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Mar 8 12:41:24 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 08 Mar 2009 15:41:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] On such a vernal day Message-ID: <49B3E724.21146.1F561D31@localhost> Happy DST day. I wonder why we call it daylight "saving" time, for today I awoke to find that I was already running an hour late, not having saved anything but lost an hour. On the other hand, today's temperatures being so vernal, I took to the garage and have successfully mated the GT6 gearbox up to the block. I am therefore rewarding myself with a glass of Dogfish Head IPA over lunch. (Ohmigosh, it's three thirty already, where did the time go?) The choice was to go motoring about topdown in the Spitfire or to mess about with tools in the garage. Tools may not be boats, but messing about with them has its own peculiar rewards. Next year though I shall ignore the most heinous component of the DST switchover and not bother to re-adjust all our clocks until after I have awakened naturally in the morning. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Mar 8 14:43:39 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 13:43:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] TransAmerica Drive Message-ID: Will there be a rendezvous point / points for Triumph folks who would like to caravan a piece with John ? -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Mar 8 15:14:21 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 22:14:21 -0000 Subject: [TR] UK soft top supplier Message-ID: <538BAD81FDA44185ACC975C6374F669E@Bevan> I was at Triumph Spares Day today and it was rather an anti-climax. Lots of people looking but it didn't appear as though too many were buying - and some great cars for sale, too. Are some cash-strapped enthusiasts being forced to sell their family silver? Near concours TR's are still being offered at ludicrously high prices though I have to say that a very tatty ex-California car that had just arrived back in the UK and offered at approx US$9,500 was stretching anyone's credibility. In summary, a fairly dull show. Apologies for bombing everyone but there's a supplier name on the tip of my tongue - but who it is, I can't remember. From time to time, many have mentioned a UK soft top supplier and spoken highly of prices, quality etc etc. Was having a long talk with a guy restoring a TS2000 series (short door TR2) who is after a vinyl top with one rear window. I'm not conversant with the names of too many TR trim suppliers and am turning to you all for your thoughts. Anyone got any ideas? Cheers - and thanks Jonmac From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Mar 8 15:15:10 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 18:15:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] two questions In-Reply-To: <759A639E-22F1-456E-88BB-3BB936D8BEF1@tcd.ie> References: <759A639E-22F1-456E-88BB-3BB936D8BEF1@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <951B94FE2AE54F90962D625F06A77C21@DCH6RFC1> List: I started stripping my rust-bucket TR250 today and noticed it had a radio with "triumph - gf - triumph" on the dial face. 1. Is there any value to this particular radio ? 2. Can anyone suggest how I might go about reconditioning it ? Thanks ! Andrew Uprichard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 8 15:39:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 14:39:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] two questions In-Reply-To: <951B94FE2AE54F90962D625F06A77C21@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <20090308223945.BTLA5856.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > 1. Is there any value to this particular radio ? Can't help there, except that they seem fairly common. They weren't actually made by Triumph; but rather by some radio company (like Motorola) under license to Triumph and supplied to US dealers for installation. > 2. Can anyone suggest how I might go about reconditioning it ? If you can get me the model number off the bottom, I might have electronic service information for it. You can even have your knobs & faceplate fitted with modern electronics (but its not cheap): http://www.radiosforoldcars.com/newradio0F.htm Lots of books and information on restoring old car radios, check your local library or Amazon. Or there are several places around that will do it for you. http://www.joesclassiccarradio.com/ NFI, these are just examples I Googled. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Sun Mar 8 15:51:00 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 22:51:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TransAmerica Drive In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <295242773.4721201236552660971.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Bill" wrote: > Will there be a rendezvous point / points for Triumph folks who would > > like to caravan a piece with John ? Certainly. I'm working on the Twin Cities plans now. I have to believe such plans are being formed all over the USA and Canada. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Mar 8 16:03:32 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 16:03:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-6 gas line Message-ID: <783757.66334.qm@web59401.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> thanks for the feedback!? I think it'll be worth my time to clean up the fuel line judging from reponses.? Since I've completed everything else in the fuel system might as well do this too! thanks everyone for feedback! garyn. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Mar 8 16:21:09 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 19:21:09 EDT Subject: [TR] UK soft top supplier Message-ID: Aldridges Trimming. Just make sure they don't FEDEX the top! Mike Moore -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sun Mar 8 16:49:02 2009 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 16:49:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TransAmerica Drive References: Message-ID: <056675F46F4C4E8E8242409C0FE856DA@Dell> Bill, The current plan as I know it is for John and company to spend some time in the Bay Area before cravaning down to San Luis Obisco for VTR/Triumphest. If you'd like to join up to go to the show, it could be a great caravan heading down, possibly for some stretches, along Pacific Coast Highway. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill" To: Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 2:43 PM Subject: [TR] TransAmerica Drive > Will there be a rendezvous point / points for Triumph folks who would like > to caravan a piece with John ? > -- > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake > it." - Henry Ford > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 > "Casper" > TS16765L > Wallace, CA > From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Mar 8 17:05:56 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 08 Mar 2009 20:05:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Welcome secondary effects Message-ID: <49B42524.19223.20484E2B@localhost> As I was leaning against a front tire and contemplating which bell housing bolt to put in next, I noticed a curious bright spot of shiny metal against the black of the tire tread. A few seconds of digging with needlenose pliers revealed a 3/4" long nail, sans head, worn away no doubt against the road surface, embedded in a high spot of the tread. No air escapes through the hole left behind when I removed it but I shall pay it close attention. Perhaps all the labor of pulling and disassembling and re-installing the GT6 gearbox was just Providence's way of getting me to notice the tire. A damned roundabout way of doing so but nevertheless I am grateful. One shouldn't overlook these small favors. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Mar 8 19:29:43 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 22:29:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] MPG for TR2, TR3 & TR4 Message-ID: <000f01c9a05e$ea749a50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I just watched a Youtube Video about the TR2-4 at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m81nKj2Ii7c&feature=related It stated that the gas milage for both TR2-3's were 34 mpg; while it was 24 mpg for the TR4. I'm guessing that some of the decrease in mpg were due to the change of SU to Stromberg carbuerators. I'm also guessing that 'primitive legaleese' cut back on boasting from 34 mpg to a more actual figure of 24 mpg. Are my guesses pretty true? Is there something I forgot to account for? I think someone on the list told me they got 36 mpg on their TR3! I forgot who it was, and I will promise to keep it a secret if they tell me again. I think they stated that they didn't want to be continually questioned as to their methods or boastings, etc. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Mar 8 20:52:39 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 08 Mar 2009 23:52:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] MPG for TR2, TR3 & TR4 In-Reply-To: <000f01c9a05e$ea749a50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <49B45A47.29428.2117DF70@localhost> On 8 Mar 2009 at 22:29, dorpaul wrote: > It stated that the gas milage for both TR2-3's were 34 mpg; while > it was 24 mpg for the TR4. I'm guessing that some of the decrease > in mpg were due to the change of SU to Stromberg carbuerators. > I'm also guessing that 'primitive legaleese' cut back on boasting > from 34 mpg to a more actual figure of 24 mpg. I can't speak directly to the TR2/3/4 question. I'm not sure about the carb difference either, but I wouldn't think it would make such a big difference, all other things being equal. However other things weren't necessarily equal. Different intake and exhaust headers, different cam settings, different compression could all affect mileage a lot if the engine produced more power by breathing better. I think you're right about the 'primitive legaleese' stuff. Back then there were no real standards for either mileage or power. The federal government didn't start defining such things tightly until much later, especially official city/highway mileage. It's been so long ago that I've forgotten whatever details I would have remembered anyway, but maybe someone else remembers when that started. In any case, it was after the TR3 and could have been about the time of the last TR4 (1967). The first emissions regs started in 1968, I think, though they were pretty soft. The Federal Highway Safety Act was 1968 too, I think. There could also have been a move in the auto industry or by SAE or insurance companies to standardize things. In other words, the supposed 10mpg difference between the 2/3 and the 4 may not have been real or so big. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 8 23:47:13 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2009 22:47:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] MPG for TR2, TR3 & TR4 In-Reply-To: <000f01c9a05e$ea749a50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20090309064710.LCOW7442.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > It stated that the gas milage for both TR2-3's were 34 mpg; > while it was 24 mpg for the TR4. I'm guessing that some of > the decrease in mpg were due to the change of SU to Stromberg > carbuerators. I doubt it. My first thought is "Where did those numbers come from?" and particularly, what size gallons were they using? Recall that the UK at that time was using Imperial gallons, which are some 20% larger than US gallons. If the first number was Imperial gallons while the second was US gallons, that would explain a lot of the difference right there. In 'Super Profile', Bill Piggott gives 32 mpg for the TR2 and 28 for the TR3, which makes sense to me as the TR3 had larger carburetors and other changes for more power. The fact that your source didn't bother to differentiate likely indicates that they weren't too careful in other ways as well. Then I would guess that the majority of the drop for the TR4 would be due to it's larger engine, larger body and higher weight. Worth noting as well that not all TR4s had Stromberg carbs; roughly half of them still had SU carbs, and later TR4As also had a different model of SU. Lots of intake, exhaust, camshaft and cylinder head changes going on as well. Randall From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Mon Mar 9 03:33:53 2009 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Robert Rochlin) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 10:33:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] radio reconditioning Message-ID: Hi Everyone, I had a 1968-74 vintage Triumph radio converted by Gary Tayman at Tayman Electrical. Really neat. the radio looks and works as original including lighting and tuning buttons ,but is now 4 channel stereo, much more powerful and has a plug for my ipod. Gary really knows his stuff and the turn around was only about 2 weeks. The tuning is a little cranky, but that is minor. If memory serves the conversion was about $400.00. Bob Rochlin72 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live? Groups: Create an online spot for your favorite groups to meet. http://windowslive.com/online/groups?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_groups_032009 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Mon Mar 9 03:36:24 2009 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 10:36:24 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumph Show - WAS: UK soft top supplier In-Reply-To: <538BAD81FDA44185ACC975C6374F669E@Bevan> Message-ID: <20090309113603.38D07187644@autox.team.net> > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney > > I was at Triumph Spares Day today and it was rather an anti-climax. Lots > of people looking but it didn't appear as though too many were buying That really doesn't match our experience of the day. We've traded at this show for the past eight years, business yesterday was very healthy, with our takings up 10% on the same show last year. Other traders I spoke to at the end of the day suggested they'd seen the same pattern. Cheers, Bill Davies. Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom http://www.rarebits4classics.co.uk From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Mar 9 04:35:48 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 11:35:48 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumph Show - WAS: UK soft top supplier References: <20090309113603.38D07187644@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <612E8DA2586E427896CC6AF79ACF91DF@Bevan> > That really doesn't match our experience of the day. We've traded at this > show for the past eight years, business yesterday was very healthy, with our > takings up 10% on the same show last year. Other traders I spoke to at the > end of the day suggested they'd seen the same pattern. Well, Bill - I'm delighted for you (and all the others) who did well! Obviously I must have been in the wrong place at the right time to have missed seeing everyone walking away with what they'd bought. One guy left a complete set of engine rebuild gaskets in the charity Spitfire, so I conclude he decided he didn't want them Cheers, john From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Mon Mar 9 04:43:31 2009 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Robert Rochlin) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 11:43:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: Hi Andrew,Gary's web site is taymanelectrical.com or a web search for Tayman electrical will get you there.Bob _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live? Groups: Create an online spot for your favorite groups to meet. http://windowslive.com/online/groups?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_groups_032009 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 9 07:47:37 2009 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 07:47:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] pertronix question(no fire in the hole-71 TR6 Message-ID: <672401.49728.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many thanks to those that replied w/sound advice to my questions about my pertronix not producing anything. I turned the key over, make sure everything was hot, tested my test light against the hot side of the battery to make sure I had a good ground on it, the hit both sides of the coil, and nada. Zip. I had my daughter turn the key over while I did the same, again w/no results. One thing I did notice, there is a bit of "wiggle" movement of the dist. when the engine is being cranked. Is this normal? I found one bolt that was loose and tightened it, but the movement is still there. I don't remember ever seeing this before. Any ideas? Thanks in advance, Bryan 19071 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 9 10:58:33 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 10:58:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] pertronix question(no fire in the hole-71 TR6 In-Reply-To: <672401.49728.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <672401.49728.qm@web37605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <186401c9a0e0$ac71afe0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > One thing I did notice, there is a bit of "wiggle" movement of the dist. > when the engine is being cranked. Is this normal? I found one bolt that > was loose and tightened it, but the movement is still there. I don't > remember ever seeing this before. Any ideas? Definitely not normal. Sounds like you may have a bent shaft, plus the body is loose for some reason. I'm not sure if this applies to a TR6, but I think it does. Where the adjustment clamp grabs the distributor body is just a lip of soft metal alloy (aka "pot metal"). Over-enthusiastic tightening of the clamp will break the lip, which is usually not obvious until it's disassembled. Once the lip is broken, the clamp will no longer hold the distributor body firmly in place. I've had some luck repairing the 4-cylinder version with epoxy. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Mar 9 14:46:37 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 21:46:37 -0000 Subject: [TR] TransAmerica Drive References: Message-ID: Bill Pugh wrote: > Will there be a rendezvous point / points for Triumph folks who would like to caravan a piece with > John ? Bill - and everyone else who might be interested. I will be delighted to see as many people as possible who want to take part in a 'caravan' and there is no need to restrict it to just Triumphs. Everyone has their preferred British marque and if we should more Healeys or MG than Triumphs at any given time, that won't worry me at all. This whole event is to raise money and if someone's preferred transport is an Abrahams tank - then so be it! Just don't expect me to cover the fuel cost. Where to join up for a 'caravan'? Have a look at the itinerary on www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk and if you want to join for as long or as briefly as you can, contact the nearest club where an event is being held to register your interest. I'm writing to them soon to advise how this can be co-ordinated. Cheers, Jonmac From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Mar 9 16:49:45 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 19:49:45 EDT Subject: [TR] TransAmerica Drive Message-ID: In a message dated 3/9/2009 5:47:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: This whole event is to raise money and if someone's preferred transport is an Abrahams tank - then so be it! Just don't expect me to cover the fuel cost. Where to join up for a 'caravan'? Have a look at the itinerary on www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk and if you want to join for as long or as briefly as you can Hey John, Would you be OK with one of those Helmet Cars as you call them? Since last I checked you are going north of Lake Erie, would you mind if I blasted up there in my 2001 Audi TT 225 Quattro Roadster? Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Mar 9 17:34:37 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Mon, 09 Mar 2009 17:34:37 Subject: [TR] 1970 GT6+ overdrive switch - Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090309173437.19571afa@pop.west.cox.net> Can anyone verify that the correct placement for the overdrive switch on my GT6+ is indeed on the right side of the column, with the lever in a downward pointing position - In my quest to restore the GT6 back to as near original condition as possible, I am re-installing the column mounted overdrive switch as it would have come from the factory, replacing the knob mounted on that I installed - Don't know if I'll really like it, but I can always put it back after the VTR/Triumphest Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Mar 9 20:01:23 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 23:01:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 taillight pads Message-ID: <003901c9a12c$7f4c7580$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, What is the difference in the TR3 taillight pads sold by 512classics on ebay shown at From spitlist at cox.net Mon Mar 9 23:19:05 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2009 23:19:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking to buy Early Spit Message-ID: I have an acquaintance who is looking for an early Spitfire that is running and ready to drive. It does not have to be a show car but a driver that can be tinkered with while driving. He wants one that is 1967 or earlier because of emissions issues where he lives. He will travel to one of the following states to purchase: Nevada, California, Arizona, New Mexico, Oregon, Washington, Utah, Colorado. If anyone has something that fits these requirements, Let me know and I will pass on your information. I have no financial interest in this transaction. Regards, Joe Curry From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Mar 10 04:04:06 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 07:04:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking to buy Early Spit In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49B610E6.1799.27C93A75@localhost> On 9 Mar 2009 at 23:19, Joe Curry wrote: > It does not have to be a show car but a driver that can be > tinkered with while driving. And does he intend to use his cell phone too? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From WCA09 at aol.com Tue Mar 10 05:19:01 2009 From: WCA09 at aol.com (WCA09 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 08:19:01 EDT Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins Message-ID: Hello, all. I'm down to the frame in my TR3A restoration (tub off). And, as predicted by those well versed in the art, the front attachment pins for the rear leaf springs are rusted solid in the frame. Suggestions, please, on how to remove them. What's worked for you? Heat, gear puller, hydraulics, drill them out (ugh!) ? The bolts appear to be in pretty good shape, so I suppose I could just leave them as is. But the remote possibility that I might need to remove them in the future, with the body in place, makes me want to free them up. So, please, suggestions appreciated! Thanks in advance, Bill **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219671244x1201345076/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Mar 10 05:53:36 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 08:53:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins Message-ID: In a message dated 3/10/2009 7:19:34 AM Central Daylight Time, WCA09 at aol.com writes: > Hello, all. I'm down to the frame in my TR3A restoration (tub off). And, > as predicted by those well versed in the art, the front attachment pins for > the rear leaf springs are rusted solid in the frame. Suggestions, please, on > how to remove them. What's worked for you? Heat, gear puller, hydraulics, > drill them out (ugh!) ? > > The bolts appear to be in pretty good shape, so I suppose I could just > leave them as is. But the remote possibility that I might need to remove them in > the future, with the body in place, makes me want to free them up. So, > please, suggestions appreciated! > > I would try a good penetrating oil such as Kroil or PB Blaster and time. I doubt heat would be effective as there is no good way to heat the main body of the assembly which is buried within the frame. And if the bolts are in good shape, as you say, then I'd opt for leaving them alone in lieu of drilling. Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Mar 10 06:06:10 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 13:06:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] TRs in the movies. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Watching a documentary on the Mili Miglia race in Italy yesterday there were several shots of TRs participating in the race. The race is restricted to cars built from 1927 to 1957 so the TRs were in a lot of good company. This documentary is playing on the HD Theater channel and is rerun in several time slots. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live?: Life without walls. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_allup_1a_explore_032009 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 10 06:37:44 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 06:37:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090310133742.PYDF7442.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > And, as predicted by those well versed in the > art, the front attachment pins for the rear leaf springs are > rusted solid in the frame. Suggestions, please, on how to > remove them. What's worked for you? Heat, gear puller, > hydraulics, drill them out (ugh!) ? Mine came out using a jury-rigged puller that engaged with the threaded hole in the pin. But that was a California car, and a long time ago, so YMMV. I would probably put a puller on both of them (threaded rod, length of pipe, etc.) and pull it down good and tight (but not quite tight enough to break ); then leave it that way while occasionally dosing them with PB Blaster and banging on the other end with a BFH (to theoretically cause vibration to help the PBB penetrate). Wouldn't hurt to heat the pin good and hot then cool it with candle wax or PBB either. But I'm pretty sure that eventually I'd get frustrated and start drilling. More force won't be the answer, because you'll wind up just pulling the tube out of the frame and having to repair that. (Which may be where you wind up anyway.) Or, just leave well enough alone; and resign yourself to lifting the body if you need to replace the springs in the future. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Tue Mar 10 07:14:00 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 10:14:00 EDT Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins Message-ID: I had one stuck one and the pin was in very good shape so I opted to leave well enough alone. After having done that, a lister posted an ingenious device for removing the pins with end pressure. Apparently it takes lots of Kroil, some heat, a big wrench, and some time. I will send the sketch directly to you as I think that the attachment will be stripped out if I post on the list. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Mar 10 10:33:12 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 10:33:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] front spring bold Message-ID: <348539.34053.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I remember putting threaded into the bolt........then putting a pip over the rod and bolt...........then using a nut on the threaded rod tightening it down against the pipe............which pulled the bolt? out.? worked great on one bolt.? the other was much more stubborn. had to use that contraption with an added puller of some kind (i forget what kind)lol.? which pulled against the frame.? even then it started bending a flange on the frame........eventuallly i did get that reinforced and continued the pressure.? It eventually came out but I had ruined the bolt.? I also found I had to buy a hardened steel threaded rod.? Conventional steel threaded rod just stripped right away although it did work on the initial easier to pull bolt. The job takes some creativity and tinkering/experimentation.? Walking away spending time thinking before you fall asleep at night is also a good plan.LOL? I'm also doing a tr-3 frame up.? Good luck and it'll be fun exchanging information!! gary n. P.S.? I've done lots of cutting and welding/patching on the back clip body tub and going off for sand blasting tommorrow.? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Mar 10 10:35:15 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 10:35:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 in the movies Message-ID: <785572.83917.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Tom, Do you remember the name of that documentary?? I'm hoping its on the Netflix list and I could order it from there.? Sounds like a great video. thanks! gary n. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 10 11:02:30 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:02:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins In-Reply-To: <1907215254.6648291236696075741.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <20090310133742.PYDF7442.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> <1907215254.6648291236696075741.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1b2301c9a1aa$61f5c9e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > and we tried for hours to coerce these pins out. In case I wasn't clear before, by "occasionally dosing", I meant application once or twice a day, for weeks. PB Blaster does seem to eventually penetrate even solid rust, but it does NOT work instantly. I have had things come loose after a solid month of soaking. Patience does pay off, sometimes. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 10 11:17:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:17:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins In-Reply-To: <20090310133742.PYDF7442.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090310133742.PYDF7442.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <1b2701c9a1ac$7fb8e3c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Mine came out using a jury-rigged puller that engaged with the threaded > hole > in the pin. But that was a California car, and a long time ago, so YMMV. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention : If the spring isn't loose on the pin (mine were), you should probably start by cutting through the end of the spring bushing and the pin, between the spring and the frame. That doesn't appear to be an issue for Bill (the OP), so this is just a suggestion for others that may read the archives. I've also been told by a ex-dealer mechanic that they used to just cut a hole in the bodywork so they could pound on the outer end of the pin. Afterwards, they just stuck a chromed plug in the hole and left it that way! -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 10 11:20:57 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 11:20:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking to buy Early Spit In-Reply-To: <49B610E6.1799.27C93A75@localhost> References: <49B610E6.1799.27C93A75@localhost> Message-ID: <1b2801c9a1ac$f5a88a40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > On 9 Mar 2009 at 23:19, Joe Curry wrote: > > > It does not have to be a show car but a driver that can be > > tinkered with while driving. Jim Muller replied: > > And does he intend to use his cell phone too? Not while tinkering on the car, I hope! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 10 12:20:00 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 12:20:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 taillight pads In-Reply-To: <003901c9a12c$7f4c7580$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003901c9a12c$7f4c7580$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <1b4701c9a1b5$35e4a820$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What is the difference in the TR3 taillight pads sold by 512classics on > ebay > and those sold by Moss? I have no direct experience with either; so there may be a real difference in the pads. But the difference in price is only 50 cents per each. That could easily be just that one vendor updated their price to reflect the spike in world oil prices last year (synthetic rubber being made from petroleum) while the other did not. Moss' price is still the same as it was in 2000... However, I will vouch that the ones I just installed from TRF ($2.99 each, between the Moss and Sports & Classics prices) appear to be top quality. How long they will hold up in SoCA smog is a different question. -- Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Mar 10 12:54:06 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 15:54:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins Message-ID: In a message dated 3/10/2009 11:18:04 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: I've also been told by a ex-dealer mechanic that they used to just cut a hole in the bodywork so they could pound on the outer end of the pin. Afterwards, they just stuck a chromed plug in the hole and left it that way! -- Randall When you remove the "slipper shaped" portion of the gravel shield, and drilla hole abutinthe center of that, you can use a fairly large diameter punch (it has to be large so as not to expand the bottom of the bolt) and strike it with a sledge hammer. I think I even use a piece of 2x10 with a hole drilled in it to protect the body should I miss. I did not weld up the hole, and I did not use a plug. The slipper piece covers it up just fine. Mike Moore 59TR3A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Tue Mar 10 19:07:09 2009 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 19:07:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Speed Sensor That Adapts to TR4 Trannys Message-ID: <000001c9a1ee$1601e0c0$4205a240$@rr.com> Hi Folks, I've been looking around, but haven't had much luck, in finding a speed sensor that adapts to the speedo cable output at the tranny. Does anybody know of an application that might work? I've been through NAPA's catalog with no success. I haven't tried the local speedo shops but I'm sure there's something out there. Any ideas? Thanks! Johnnie '67 TR4A Trying to install a cruise control without using magnets on the drive shaft. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rbtr3a at cox.net Tue Mar 10 19:32:10 2009 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 02:32:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <61035098-1236738737-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1095758769-@bxe1051.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Bill over the years I have had success removing stubborn pins that have rusted in place by soaking them in a penetrating oil. After they have soaked for a while I would use my air chisel with a round punch attachment. This combo has been very successful for me at driving out the rusted pins. Ronnie Babbitt Sent from my BlackBerry? smartphone with SprintSpeed -----Original Message----- From: WCA09 at aol.com Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 08:19:01 To: Subject: [TR] Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as rbtr3a at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Mar 11 05:44:47 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 12:44:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] Speed Sensor That Adapts to TR4 Trannys In-Reply-To: <000001c9a1ee$1601e0c0$4205a240$@rr.com> References: <000001c9a1ee$1601e0c0$4205a240$@rr.com> Message-ID: Try the speedo shops they are the experts. Best regards, Tom From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2009 19:07:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Speed Sensor That Adapts to TR4 Trannys Hi Folks, I?ve been looking around, but haven?t had much luck, in finding a speed sensor that adapts to the speedo cable output at the tranny. Does anybody know of an application that might work? I?ve been through NAPA?s catalog with no success. I haven?t tried the local speedo shops but I?m sure there?s something out there. Any ideas? Thanks! Johnnie ?67 TR4A Trying to install a cruise control without using magnets on the drive shaft. _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live?: Life without walls. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_allup_1a_explore_032009 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From DLylis at aol.com Wed Mar 11 10:13:32 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 13:13:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Speed Sensor That Adapts to TR4 Trannys Message-ID: Look up a sending unit for an electronic speedo. I was researching using an electronic speedo in my TR and I am almost sure that Summit has a sensor that does not use a magnet. You point it at the bolts on your prop shaft output at the rear of the tranny. Pretty sure but its been a while. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Wed Mar 11 11:15:10 2009 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 11:15:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Selling my 67 4A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The time has come to where I need to sell my 67 TR4A and I thought I'd post it here before I post on eBay. After a 3 year complete frame off restoration I won first in class last summer at the Portland ABFM. There is too much to list here, but know that every inch of this car has been rebuilt or replaced and is better than new. If you are interested please email me directly at binduni (at) roadrunner (dot) com or call me at 208-691-7371. I will get some pictures posted soon. I'm looking to get $20K for my LBC. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Mar 11 15:00:42 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 15:00:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Speed Sensor That Adapts to TR4 Trannys In-Reply-To: <000001c9a1ee$1601e0c0$4205a240$@rr.com> References: <000001c9a1ee$1601e0c0$4205a240$@rr.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903111500p66b3db21q3f48e948e8b922e5@mail.gmail.com> A local TR4 owner did a cruise control on a TR4 using a unit from (I think) a Ford. Unit was under the bonnet, speedo cable (shortened) went in one side and a second short cable came out the other side and went to the speedometer. Or -- are there not some CC units that operate off of the coil? OTOH -- why not use the magnets? I've had one of those Audiovox units in use for about 20 years w/o any problem. Geo On Tue, Mar 10, 2009 at 7:07 PM, John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > ...a speed sensor that adapts to the speedo cable output at the > tranny...Trying to install a cruise control without using magnets on the > drive shaft. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From agraham at execulink.com Wed Mar 11 18:28:56 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 21:28:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Soft top & yellow windows Message-ID: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net> Hello List: Is there any treatment for yellowed plastic windows on the soft-top? I have been told that the scratches can be buffed out, but what about the yellow of age? Any treatment? Thanks in advance for any help. Angelo Graham From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Wed Mar 11 18:34:45 2009 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 21:34:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Soft top & yellow windows In-Reply-To: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net> References: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20090311213351.043875e0@216.7.163.243> Angelo, I used Novus 2 and 1 on my plastic windows and it took the discoloration out with no issues. Good luck! - Aldwyn At 09:28 PM 3/11/2009, Angelo Graham wrote: >Hello List: >Is there any treatment for yellowed plastic windows on the soft-top? I >have been told that the scratches can be buffed out, but what about the >yellow of age? Any treatment? >Thanks in advance for any help. > >Angelo Graham From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed Mar 11 20:54:01 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2009 23:54:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Leaf Spring Front Attachment Pins References: <20090310133742.PYDF7442.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall><1907215254.6648291236696075741.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1b2301c9a1aa$61f5c9e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <472CDCF0F1AB4454A627C1DD9FA10CC3@Edscomputer> List, 3 Triumph guys can remove all the body bolts, lift the rear sufficiently to remove the springs, replace the springs (both), bolt down the body and have pizza and beer between 7 a.m. and 2 p.m. I watched, took pictures, went for the pizza and helped drink the beer. Ed Woods From tr6driver at earthlink.net Thu Mar 12 06:22:08 2009 From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 09:22:08 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] TR6 Air conditioning? Message-ID: <22631916.1236864128304.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I apologize if this has been covered, but I haven't been on the list recently. Anyone have any experience with these folks? They have a nice-looking TR6 a/c system... Thanks! Jamie Palmer '73 TR6 From tr6parts at charter.net Thu Mar 12 09:36:30 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 12:36:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Air conditioning? References: <22631916.1236864128304.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <75BE49403DD440AF92FF940C409984BE@Alan> Looks like they have remolded the original interior ac parts. I been to the place when I used to live near Tampa, at the time they did not have this system. They do a lot of retro fittings, Mustangs and such. What I don't see in the system is what holds the compressor in place and the pulley that runs it. And does it require, like the original cutting a hole in the engine bay , so the blower motor has clearence. Nice to know that they are doing it. Maybe they'll sell parts to fix old units. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jamie Palmer" To: Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 9:22 AM Subject: [TR] TR6 Air conditioning? >I apologize if this has been covered, but I haven't been on the list >recently. Anyone have any experience with these folks? > > They have a nice-looking TR6 a/c system... > > Thanks! > > Jamie Palmer > '73 TR6 > _______________________________________________ From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 12 09:48:57 2009 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 09:48:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] A Type Overdrive Cone Clutch Message-ID: <332939.88007.qm@web80401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Anyone know of a vendor that can reline the two friction areas on the "sliding member" [cone clutch] of an A Type Overdrive? brgds, Jay Wheaton Illinois -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6parts at charter.net Thu Mar 12 10:08:51 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 13:08:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Air conditioning? References: <22631916.1236864128304.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <75BE49403DD440AF92FF940C409984BE@Alan> Message-ID: <083399C004F34EF7B676BC58A7C52A90@Alan> I just got a response from British AC, and it does not require cutting the hole, since they lowered the blower. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Salvatore" To: "Jamie Palmer" ; Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 12:36 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Air conditioning? > Looks like they have remolded the original interior ac parts. > I been to the place when I used to live near Tampa, at the time they did > not have this system. They do a lot of retro fittings, Mustangs and such. > What I don't see in the system is what holds the compressor in place and > the pulley that runs it. And does it require, like the original cutting a > hole in the engine bay , so the blower motor has clearence. > Nice to know that they are doing it. > Maybe they'll sell parts to fix old units. > > Al > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jamie Palmer" > To: > Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 9:22 AM > Subject: [TR] TR6 Air conditioning? > > >>I apologize if this has been covered, but I haven't been on the list >>recently. Anyone have any experience with these folks? >> >> They have a nice-looking TR6 a/c system... >> >> Thanks! >> >> Jamie Palmer >> '73 TR6 >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 12 10:26:27 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 10:26:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] A Type Overdrive Cone Clutch In-Reply-To: <332939.88007.qm@web80401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <332939.88007.qm@web80401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1f8101c9a337$ad67ce80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Anyone know of a vendor that can reline the two friction areas on the > "sliding member" [cone clutch] of an A Type Overdrive? I'd ask these guys: http://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/ -- Randall From tr3a at comcast.net Thu Mar 12 11:06:56 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 14:06:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] A Type Overdrive Cone Clutch In-Reply-To: <332939.88007.qm@web80401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <332939.88007.qm@web80401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49B94F40.7020203@comcast.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Thu Mar 12 12:08:10 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 15:08:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] A Type Overdrive Cone Clutch Message-ID: > Anyone know of a vendor that can reline the two friction areas on > the "sliding member" [cone clutch] of an A Type Overdrive? > Quantumechanics, bottom of page, http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=18 Allen From wquincy at cox.net Thu Mar 12 12:22:54 2009 From: wquincy at cox.net (William Quincy) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 14:22:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] slow overdrive Message-ID: <5D8A230B-4F89-4361-9632-976C08FC680B@cox.net> Greetings Listers, As soon as my wife releases me from kitchen remodeling duty. I hope to address a problem with the A type overdrive in my TR3A. Rebuilt last winter, with 700 miles accrued over last summer, the overdrive engages slowly, 6 seconds when cold 3 seconds when hot using gear oil or, 3 seconds and 3 seconds using valvoline racing oil 20/50. Disengages instantly. Is this indicative of anything specific. Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Mar 12 13:54:53 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 16:54:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] slow overdrive Message-ID: <20090312165453.CBK61774@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Bill Quincy asked: > overdrive engages slowly, 6 seconds when cold 3 seconds > when hot using gear oil or, 3 seconds and 3 seconds using > valvoline racing oil 20/50. Disengages instantly. Is this > indicative of anything specific. Low oil (or if you prefer, low oik) would be my guess. -- Jim Muller From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 12 14:17:31 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 17:17:31 EDT Subject: [TR] slow overdrive Message-ID: In a message dated 3/12/2009 3:13:05 PM Central Daylight Time, wquincy at cox.net writes: > I hope to > address a problem with the A type overdrive in my TR3A. > Rebuilt last winter, with 700 miles accrued over last summer, the > overdrive engages slowly, 6 seconds when cold 3 seconds when hot > using gear oil or, 3 seconds and 3 seconds using valvoline racing oil > 20/50. > Disengages instantly. Is this indicative of anything specific. > If you are lucky it is merely and adjustment. The solenoid may be just barely lifting the rod. If you read the manual it tells you to set the adjustment using a drill bit in the hole in the lever. Don't believe it. It may have worked when the units were new but it frequently leaves you with a misadjusted solenoid. Try adding a bit more stroke to the adjustment. You may have to set it by trial and error. This is by far the easiest potential fix so try it first before tearing into the filter screen or any other possible cause. Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 12 15:09:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 15:09:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] slow overdrive In-Reply-To: <5D8A230B-4F89-4361-9632-976C08FC680B@cox.net> References: <5D8A230B-4F89-4361-9632-976C08FC680B@cox.net> Message-ID: <200801c9a35f$421f06c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Is this indicative of anything specific. While there are lots of things that could cause that, Bill, my first thought would be to check the solenoid adjustment. The "pin through the lever" method given in all the books does not always work, and misadjustment can cause slow engagement. A quick test of this theory would be to drive the car at relatively low speed and away from traffic with the tunnel out, so you can engage the OD by pushing directly on the lever (with the hole in it). If that makes it engage promptly, then the adjustment is the issue. The alternate method of adjusting the solenoid involves removing the plug above the operating valve, and measuring how far the ball moves when the solenoid is held at the top of its travel. Unfortunately there is no clear consensus on how far the ball should move for a Triumph, but I am inclined to follow the Healey recommendation of 1/32". More info at http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD4/AOD4.htm (near the bottom) While you are in there, inspect the ball itself for any signs of corrosion, wear or damage. If it is not absolutely perfect, replace it. Beyond that; my next step would be to get a pressure gauge and see what it had to tell me. Low pressure for whatever reason could also cause slow shifts. Somewhere on the web there is an article by Del Border showing one fix for low oil pressure. Let me know if you would like a copy via email. -- Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Mar 12 16:11:03 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 19:11:03 EDT Subject: [TR] slow overdrive Message-ID: In a message dated 3/12/2009 4:13:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wquincy at cox.net writes: Disengages instantly. Is this indicative of anything specific. Bill, I had one of these in my 62 TR4 when I first purchased it. Slow to engage as you have described. When it was rebuilt blue silicone gasket sealer was used. This is a bad thing for OD's. I sold that gearbox off, as is, and purchased another one. I heard later that even after a rebuild that gearbox was still problematic. Sorry probably worst case. Darrell **************Need a job? Find employment help in your area. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000005) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From markvaden at gmail.com Thu Mar 12 22:02:44 2009 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2009 22:02:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Race Videos References: <97169BC0-64FA-4A9A-BC02-C5DE32936AD4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8E04492D-0875-41FD-8B98-027608208175@gmail.com> Hi, My friend Randy Zoller (Heritage Motorsports) was nice enough to give me a little cyberspace on his web page to post videos and pictures. I posted some video taken with my ChaseCam. Some of the quality is not as good as it should be since I mounted the camera to the plastic windscreen, and it's bouncing all over the place. I also use a RacePak G2X datalogger, and overlay the data on the video. My car broke at the last event, so I lent the camera to Steve Belfer, and we used a different mount, and his video came out great, although we ran out of space on the camera, and we missed his last effort at passing Paul Konkle (yellow mg). Check out the video at http://www.britishheritagemotorsports.com/tri_hard_racing_files/racing_videos.html > I figure people who are still snowed in will be stoked to see some > west coast racing. > > -Mark From kmbeam at comcast.net Fri Mar 13 03:26:45 2009 From: kmbeam at comcast.net (kmbeam at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 10:26:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Empty 28 foot enclosed trailer, VA to WA departing 28/29 Mar Message-ID: <1715467416.10421236940005372.JavaMail.root@sz0099a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I have a good friend departing Richmond, VA for Washington State on 28 or 29 March and returning before Easter. ? He will drive a 2007 Chevy dually pulling an empty 28 foot enclosed Haulmark Trailer - weight/power is not an issue. ? He is an Army Major who commanded a helicopter troop in Afghanistan in 07/08 - his reliability is not an issue. ? His trailer has a winch so he can handle cars that are not running (I know, ? that NEVER happens to OUR cars). He has the ability to secure just about any load. ? He is returning with a vehicle but will be able to haul some other items such as engine blocks, axles, furniture, etcetera. Please contact Lee at hyders4 at yahoo.com to coordinate. NFI here ? just trying to help those who enjoy our hobby and a good man. Kevin Beam 57 TR3 70 Spitfire 81 TR8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 13 11:24:49 2009 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 11:24:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] slow overdrive ( Oil Pressure Gauge ) Message-ID: <281063.37409.qm@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> "Beyond that; my next step would be to get a pressure gauge and see what it had to tell me.? Low pressure for whatever reason could also cause slow shifts.?" Bill, If it comes to it, after you've done the easy things, I produce and sell an Oil Pressure Gauge Set for the A Type Overdrive (+ D, J, LH Types). For detail see: http://tinyurl.com/505s brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri Mar 13 15:11:38 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 15:11:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] side screen re-building Message-ID: <53597.80199.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I don't see too much information on side-screen re-building.? Anyone tried it and how did it go?? Any good sources for information and possibly step by step help? thanks gary n. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Mar 13 16:32:43 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 23:32:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] A Type OD Notched Drain Plug Tool In-Reply-To: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net> Message-ID: <845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I've avoided draining the OD oil, cleaning the filter, and replacing with new oil.? So...the notched OD drain plug requires a special tool.? I don't want to have to fabricate something if these are available relatively inexpensively anywhere.? Just don't see one in the Moss catalog.? ...Or, is there a generic workaround using some common tool device that won't bugger up the brass plug?? It's over $80 to replace, which would make it a (money) drain plug. Heh heh. Oh, by the way, how do you clean the filter.? Gas okay? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Mar 13 16:40:54 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 23:40:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Quantum Mechanics In-Reply-To: <49B94F40.7020203@comcast.net> Message-ID: <199166135.7781101236987654019.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Never used this guy, but istr that John Esposito of Quantum Mechanics Ltd. in Monroe, Connecticut has a good reputation. I know he works on Laycock overdrives. > http://www.quantumechanics.com/ >If he has fallen out of favor - who knows, I've been away for a while - perhaps someone else can chime in here. He might at least be able to steer you to someone a bit >closer. I'm sold on these guys.? I sent them two front brake calipers that had sat for 30 years.? Trying to get the bleeder screw out myself, I buggered it up something fierce, breaking off not one, but TWO easy-outs inside the hole.? (I never liked easy-outs, like them less now.)? Quantum Mechanics sent them back perfect and with no extra charge.? Almost as considerate as my not charging my wife's brothers extra money 6 months after we got married.? ...But that's another story. NFI :o) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Mar 13 16:47:09 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 23:47:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Seat Rails In-Reply-To: <200801c9a35f$421f06c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1787506685.7782891236988029924.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> When I rebuilt the car, I sourced two pair of used seat rails that had already been painted, installed them, and have driven on them for several years now.? Pulling up the seats and carpet this winter (oh, a garage!), I found they were already filming with rust. I've removed them, electric bench-brushed them, and have painted them again, this time with POR-15.? Question:? what's the thought about taking a piece of bicycle inner tube and separating the seat rail from the floor pan.? The POR-15 ought to do it for the rails, but I haven't thus treated the floor pans. Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A New Hampshire -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Mar 13 16:58:13 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 16:58:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Seat Rails In-Reply-To: <1787506685.7782891236988029924.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090313195813.ZN0MK.2552888.root@mp20> I don't know about TR3's , but the TR6 had a metal spacer between the seat rails and the carpet to help keep them out of water that gets in the compartment. I imagine the TR3 had something similar when new. Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ---- terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > > > When I rebuilt the car, I sourced two pair of used seat rails that had already been painted, installed them, and have driven on them for several years now.? Pulling up the seats and carpet this winter (oh, a garage!), I found they were already filming with rust. > > > > I've removed them, electric bench-brushed them, and have painted them again, this time with POR-15.? > > > > Question:? what's the thought about taking a piece of bicycle inner tube and separating the seat rail from the floor pan.? The POR-15 ought to do it for the rails, but I haven't thus treated the floor pans. > > > > Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A > > New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 13 17:07:34 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 17:07:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] A Type OD Notched Drain Plug Tool In-Reply-To: <845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net> <845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <026f01c9a438$e0ab8230$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > So...the notched OD drain plug requires a special tool. I don't want to > have to fabricate something if these are available relatively > inexpensively anywhere. Harbor Freight used to have a tool that worked, but I was not able to find it in their catalog or on the web site the last time I looked. Years ago I made my own from a length of flat iron maybe 1" by 1/8" by 36" from the local hardware store plus a couple of 1/4" diameter bolts & nuts that I had laying around. Measure the plug and drill the bar to match the slots in the plug, then insert the bolts & secure them with nuts. ISTR I ground the sides of the bolts smooth, but don't recall if it was necessary to make them fit into the slots or not. It was not entirely satisfactory, but worked well enough that I never did get around to milling notches into a large, cheap socket. Hmm, come to think of it, I should look for a suitable socket next time I go to the swap meet ... But my current A-type is the older style with the hex plug instead of the notches, so I don't really need the tool now. > ...Or, > is there a generic workaround using some common tool device that won't > bugger up the brass plug? I see a tool at MMC similar to the one HF used to sell. But I cannot vouch for how well it works. http://www.mcmaster.com/#5471a13/=znm5h > Oh, by the way, how do you clean the filter. Gas okay? IMO compressed air or spray carb/brake cleaner would work better. It's just a screen, so if it has caught anything, it will be fairly large. Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Mar 13 17:24:28 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 19:24:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] A Type OD Notched Drain Plug Tool In-Reply-To: <845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westch ester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net> <845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090314012338.748E5187655@autox.team.net> For the OD, I just use a big *ss pipe wrench. It hasn't buggered it up, surprisingly. After finding pieces of overdrive in the screen a couple of years ago, I pull it after every racing season. - Tony Drews At 06:32 PM 3/13/2009, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >I've avoided draining the OD oil, cleaning the filter, and replacing >with new oil. > > > >So...the notched OD drain plug requires a special tool. I don't >want to have to fabricate something if these are available >relatively inexpensively anywhere. Just don't see one in the Moss >catalog. ...Or, is there a generic workaround using some common >tool device that won't bugger up the brass plug? It's over $80 to >replace, which would make it a (money) drain plug. > > > >Heh heh. > > > >Oh, by the way, how do you clean the filter. Gas okay? > > > >Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > >New Hampshire >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Fri Mar 13 17:52:40 2009 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 20:52:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] A Type OD Notched Drain Plug Tool In-Reply-To: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net><845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <20090314012338.748E5187655@autox.team.net> References: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net><845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <20090314012338.748E5187655@autox.team.net> Message-ID: One is for sale on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/cuu3of From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Mar 13 18:59:36 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2009 18:59:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Seat Rails In-Reply-To: <1787506685.7782891236988029924.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <200801c9a35f$421f06c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <1787506685.7782891236988029924.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903131859t5488ba17t37b28dc6bd3ccd20@mail.gmail.com> FWIW -- I slit my carpets so they can be put in and removed w/o removing the seat rails. Makes it much quicker to remove the carpet for drying in the 'unlikely event of a water landing'. Have never had rust on the rails but that may be Arizona + they are lightly lubed with Lubriplate. Geo On Fri, Mar 13, 2009 at 4:47 PM, wrote: > When I rebuilt the car, I sourced two pair of used seat rails that had > already been painted, installed them, and have driven on them for several > years now. Pulling up the seats and carpet this winter (oh, a garage!), I > found they were already filming with rust. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Sat Mar 14 11:29:06 2009 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 14:29:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil drain plug wrench Message-ID: Terry, I used an oil filter wrench; worked like a charm. Cost me nothing as it was already hanging on the wall. Jim =============== So...the notched OD drain plug requires a special tool.? I don't want to have to fabricate something if these are available relatively inexpensively anywhere.? Just don't see one in the Moss catalog.? ...Or, is there a generic workaround using some common tool device that won't bugger up the brass plug?? It's over $80 to replace, which would make it a (money) drain plug. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A From trglory at verizon.net Sat Mar 14 11:51:54 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Jos Laurito) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 14:51:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Reliability check Message-ID: Are there any list members living in England that have any knowledge of Watford Classic Cars in St. Albans, Herts? I am considering making a purchase from them, but would like to check their credibility with locals prior to sending big bucks across the ocean. Thanks for your recommendations. Joe From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com Sat Mar 14 12:10:06 2009 From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 15:10:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Reliability check In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106E41A14C6@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Hi Joe, I'm not across the pond, but I bought a set of their Minilite replicas on eBay late last year (eBay store name is "MGBreakers") for my Spit. I ordered them on a Friday evening, had them Wednesday morning on my doorstep here in PA. Very positive experience here, well packed and delivered quickly. Right now they have a Mountney semi-dished wheel for the Spit for about $150 USD delivered. I'm really tempted.... Jim NASS #302 NASS Club Secretary '75 Spitfire 1500 w/OD www.littlebluespitfire.com York, PA Are there any list members living in England that have any knowledge of Watford Classic Cars in St. Albans, Herts? I am considering making a purchase from them, but would like to check their credibility with locals prior to sending big bucks across the ocean. Thanks for your recommendations. Joe The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Mar 14 15:01:56 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 22:01:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Bulkhead Sealer Plate Fasteners Message-ID: <1811176811.8006481237068116609.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Went to install the bulkhead sealer plates behind the wheels of the TR3A.B The body guy must have filledB in any holes, and any cage nuts also long gone.B I thought I would drill holes through the plates and the lip on the bulkhead where appropriate, but I can't use a regular bolt and nut system because there's no room to get behind the plate to put the nut on.B So I wondered which alternative type fastener to get.B The butterfly (drywall) type would have to be small to fit throug the hole.B A sheet metal hex bolt could work and is where I'm leaning.B Also could get one of those plastic inserts for the hole and thread a screw into that to hold the two together. Any thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Mar 14 15:56:44 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 22:56:44 -0000 Subject: [TR] Reliability check References: Message-ID: > Are there any list members living in England that have any knowledge of > Watford Classic Cars in St. Albans, Herts? I am considering making a > purchase from them, but would like to check their credibility with locals > prior to sending big bucks across the ocean. Thanks for your > recommendations. Can't give you any recommendations Joe as I've never dealt with them myself but they've been in existence for quite a while. If I can offer any off-list help on tips to safeguard your money in exchange for what you need to buy, just ask Jonmac From DLylis at aol.com Sat Mar 14 16:03:08 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 19:03:08 EDT Subject: [TR] Bulkhead Sealer Plate Fasteners Message-ID: There are such things as rivet nuts that will leave you with a threaded hole. Probably preferable to any general hardware store solution. Try this _http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivet-nuts/=105ddx_ (http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivet-nuts/=105ddx) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000002) From roggez at bigpond.net.au Sat Mar 14 18:56:02 2009 From: roggez at bigpond.net.au (David Rogers) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 12:56:02 +1100 Subject: [TR] Approximate Build Date Message-ID: <16DE5AE5-4E5E-47BF-BCB5-41128B7BE6B1@bigpond.net.au> A friend has just acquired a 1963 TR4, Commission No CT23515. From Piggott's data, that would put the build date around mid-1963. Without having to go the BMHT route, does anyone have a car with a Comm No within say, 20/30 either side and they know the build date? He only wants to know the approximate date at this stage. Rather than bomb the list, a reply off list would be great. TIA Dave Rogers Canberra From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Mar 14 19:13:23 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 19:13:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Approximate Build Date In-Reply-To: <16DE5AE5-4E5E-47BF-BCB5-41128B7BE6B1@bigpond.net.au> References: <16DE5AE5-4E5E-47BF-BCB5-41128B7BE6B1@bigpond.net.au> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903141913t17252308q16480f6f105ace3c@mail.gmail.com> On the Triumph Registry the closest one is CT23641O built 25 June 1963 and also sent to the antipodes (in NSW): http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/TR4/index.htm On Sat, Mar 14, 2009 at 6:56 PM, David Rogers wrote: > A friend has just acquired a 1963 TR4, Commission No CT23515. From > Piggott's data, that would put the build date around mid-1963.... From wbeech at flash.net Sat Mar 14 20:09:27 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 21:09:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] Bulkhead Sealer Plate Fasteners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <295471AD93864BFBA22CA7FB1A47F17B@sniffer> Terry, You could mark the hole locations with the plates, drill a hole and pop-rivet the caged nuts into place on the back side of the lip. Had to do one on mine like this, I'll never tell where. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 5:03 PM To: terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Bulkhead Sealer Plate Fasteners There are such things as rivet nuts that will leave you with a threaded hole. Probably preferable to any general hardware store solution. Try this _http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivet-nuts/=105ddx_ (http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivet-nuts/=105ddx) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare0000000 2) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Mar 15 05:54:23 2009 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 08:54:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] A Type OD Notched Drain Plug Tool In-Reply-To: <845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <200903120128.n2C1SuCr014685@smtp1.execulink.net> <845238590.7778951236987163690.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6fa72a770903150554s118270b9v9025b6152e87565f@mail.gmail.com> Be careful! - The first time I did mine - the Nut was stuck. I used the big pipe wrench method and it would not budge. I added a pipe on the handle of the pipe wrench (read this as less control over the pipe wrench) and tried again. No luck. I grabbed the frame rail with one hand and really pulled on the wrench - the pipe wrench came off the trans plug and my other hand slid up the frame rail and nicely sliced 3 fingers to the bone. Since the entire underside of my TR4 is covered with oil and sand, that apparently kept the frame from rusting over the years. It took me a good hour to pick all the sand out of the cuts, mostly due to me getting woozy and having to sit down every couple of minutes. Apparently I'm a wimp when it comes to cleaning my own wounds and watchig bones and parts as I verified the operation of my finger parts. I was tougher and more stupid then - Today - it would be a trip to the doctor. I had no business doctoring up that myself. A good solid week later, I tried it again with the pipe wrench and was sucessful took me and a buddy - mostly brass colored dust (which explains no synchro on 1st or 2nd gear) and no chunks. I also have put in one of those magnetic drain plugs and so far not really picked up much of anything. Good luck! From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Mar 15 06:07:58 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 13:07:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] A Type OD Notched Drain Plug Tool In-Reply-To: <1078850575.8104801237122208642.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1104959698.8105631237122478488.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >I grabbed the frame rail with one hand and really pulled on the wrench - the pipe wrench came off the trans plugB and my other hand slid up the frame rail and nicely sliced 3 >fingers to the bone.B Since the entire underside of my TR4 is covered with oil and sand, that apparently kept the frame from rusting over the years. >It took me a good hour to pick all the sand out of the cuts,B mostly due to me getting woozy and having to sit down every couple of minutes. Apparently I'm a wimp when it >comes to cleaning my own wounds and watchig bones and parts as IB verified the operation of my finger parts.B I was tougher and more stupid thenB - Today - it would be a trip >to the doctor.B I had no business doctoring up that myself. Thanks, Chris.B Had a similar bone-slicing experience with a Datsun 2000 Roadster gas tank and a trip to the Emergency Room where a distracted doctor kept pausing in the middle of his stitches to renew a rant about people on Medicaid using Emergency Rooms instead of a primary care physician.B Meanwhile, my son who was four back then, was scooting delightedly around the area turning every knob he could find, lifting the lid on the bio-waste bucket, and snooping in on the patient behind the next curtain.B The doctor could have opined that the moon was bleu cheese yogart and I would have nodded my head somberly in agreement. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Mar 15 06:41:40 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 13:41:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Bulkhead Sealer Plate Fasteners In-Reply-To: <1811176811.8006481237068116609.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1811176811.8006481237068116609.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: There is a sheet metal device known as "Threadserts" you can use to establish new nuts for the bulkhead plates. Threadserts are aluminum tubes with thrteads on half of the inside. You place them into a drilled hole and a little lip at the top end catches the sheet metal. Then you screw a bolt into them throud an over sized nut and thightem the bolt. That tightening collapses the thread section into the top of the threadsert and ceases it to the sheet metal. You can find them at industrial hardware stores and maybe at local consumer hardware stores. Best regards, Tom > Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 22:01:56 +0000 > From: terryrs at comcast.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Bulkhead Sealer Plate Fasteners > > Went to install the bulkhead sealer plates behind the wheels of the TR3A.B > The body guy must have filledB in any holes, and any cage nuts also long > gone.B > > > > I thought I would drill holes through the plates and the lip on the bulkhead > where appropriate, but I can't use a regular bolt and nut system because > there's no room to get behind the plate to put the nut on.B So I wondered > which alternative type fastener to get.B The butterfly (drywall) type would > have to be small to fit throug the hole.B A sheet metal hex bolt could work > and is where I'm leaning.B Also could get one of those plastic inserts for > the hole and thread a screw into that to hold the two together. > > > > Any thoughts? > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_032009 From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Mar 15 10:20:03 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 17:20:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Cleaning before Painting Message-ID: <1844934362.8169651237137603670.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Anybody ever use engine degreaser to prep wire wheels before going to a commercial car wash for a power spray?B Then on to spray paint? Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca Sun Mar 15 13:26:41 2009 From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 14:26:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Bulkhead Sealer Plate Fasteners Message-ID: <49BD6481.9020207@shaw.ca> Rivet nuts, "riv-nut", "nut-serts", and "Threadserts" are all basically the same product. I have used these a lot in a previous job, here are some tips on using them. First off they come in steel and aluminum. The steel ones usually have a lip on the insert that stops the insert from pushing through the hole it's installed in. These are the most reliable inserts but you end up with what looks like a washer on the surface of your mounting hole. These wouldn't work well for the bulkhead plates because you wouldn't get a flush fit to the fire wall. The aluminum ones come with and with out the outer lip. You would want to use the ones without the lip for this application. The ones without the lip are the trickiest to install. The holes have to be exactly the right size, too small and the insert can't be pulled in tight enough and the center threaded part will eventually come loose from the outer collar, too large and the outer collar will spin in the hole just like a rusty old caged nut. For long term reliability you should always put some red or green Loctite on the outside of insert before installing it the hole, this reduces the odds of them coming loose. With the aluminum ones if they will be exposed to the weather it's important to use anti-seize on the bolts or the galvanic reaction between the dissimilar metals will seize the bolt in the insert. And just like welding it's a good idea to practice first on a similar piece of scrap sheet metal to get your technique down before start on your car. My $0.02 Doug Hamilton 1960 TR3A 1963 Fiat Cabriolet > Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2009 22:01:56 +0000 (UTC) > From: terryrs at comcast.net > Subject: [TR] Bulkhead Sealer Plate Fasteners > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > <1811176811.8006481237068116609.JavaMail.root at sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Went to install the bulkhead sealer plates behind the wheels of the TR3A.B > The body guy must have filledB in any holes, and any cage nuts also long > gone.B > > > > I thought I would drill holes through the plates and the lip on the bulkhead > where appropriate, but I can't use a regular bolt and nut system because > there's no room to get behind the plate to put the nut on.B So I wondered > which alternative type fastener to get.B The butterfly (drywall) type would > have to be small to fit throug the hole.B A sheet metal hex bolt could work > and is where I'm leaning.B Also could get one of those plastic inserts for > the hole and thread a screw into that to hold the two together. > > > > Any thoughts? > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire From carlsereda at aol.com Sun Mar 15 13:40:15 2009 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 13:40:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 125 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <0ED675B1.6524.4EBC.8EFD.CC9352467FF2@aol.com> TR4 CT22326L Build date: 29 April 1963. Carl - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - A friend has just acquired a 1963 TR4, Commission No CT23515 - does anyone have a car with a Comm No either side and they know the build date? From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Mar 15 15:23:59 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 15:23:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Cleaning before Painting In-Reply-To: <1844934362.8169651237137603670.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1844934362.8169651237137603670.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903151523p7f90ce39lc859da76f17a6a3e@mail.gmail.com> I would use one of the aerosol preps to do the final clean before painting. The one I happen to have is called 'Total Prep', Prepsol may be another. I would be concerned that a degreaser would get the heavy stuff off but leave a film of something on there. On Sun, Mar 15, 2009 at 10:20 AM, wrote: > Anybody ever use engine degreaser to prep wire wheels before going to a > commercial car wash for a power spray?B Then on to spray paint? From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 15 22:43:43 2009 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2009 22:43:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [Healeys] A Type Overdrive Cone Clutch References: <670081.47414.qm@web31506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <647508.83474.qm@web80405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Greetings Joe, Last week I sent a core over to Fort Wayne Clutch (Indiana) and they've sent photos to several of their friction material suppliers. I expect to hear from them in a week or so if they can or can't do the job. I'll let you know. brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 ________________________________ From: jomar healey To: healeys at autox.team.net; Jay Holekamp Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 4:37:40 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Type Overdrive Cone Clutch Jay I found this place in NJ. http://www.industrialbrakeclutch.com/relining.htm I need the same thing for my '53 overdrive. Please let me know how they workout since I'm don't have mine out of the car yet. Joe BN1 #923 Coronet Cream BN2 100M BJ8 "The Blue Baby" per wife and kid --- On Thu, 3/12/09, Jay Holekamp wrote: From: Jay Holekamp Subject: [Healeys] A Type Overdrive Cone Clutch To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Thursday, March 12, 2009, 12:48 PM Anyone know of a vendor that can reline the two friction areas on the "sliding member" [cone clutch] of an A Type Overdrive? brgds, Jay Wheaton Illinois _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys You are subscribed as ah53 at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From trlist01 at canleyworks.com Mon Mar 16 08:46:44 2009 From: trlist01 at canleyworks.com (Mark Gendron) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 08:46:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] FS: 1954 TR2 project (Seattle) In-Reply-To: <000f01c98629$84497ec0$0400a8c0@toadstool2> Message-ID: <000801c9a64e$6fe04b40$0400a8c0@toadstool2> My TR2 (TS2571L) has found a new home. Thanks to everyone who responded and showed an interest in this vehicle! -Mark Gendron TR-less (formerly TS2571L) :-( From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 16 11:53:19 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2009 11:53:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] FS: 1954 TR2 project (Seattle) In-Reply-To: <000801c9a64e$6fe04b40$0400a8c0@toadstool2> References: <000f01c98629$84497ec0$0400a8c0@toadstool2> <000801c9a64e$6fe04b40$0400a8c0@toadstool2> Message-ID: <081a01c9a668$7ac96b80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My TR2 (TS2571L) has found a new home. Did you tell the new owner about Team.Net? -- Randall From DLylis at aol.com Tue Mar 17 07:38:51 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 10:38:51 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure Message-ID: My (formerly) newly rebuilt 3A motor has excellent oil pressure. My gauge read 65 lbs at idle upon startup and ran about 80 lbs driving. Warm motor idle was at 50 lbs. Twice now, the pressure has dropped to 20 -30 at idle and shutting off the car and waiting returns it to the previous readings. The driving pressure is as before. Stuck pressure relief, you say. I agree, so it removed it and cleaned it and all seemed well. Something odd happened, however, which is counter intuitive. Now, as the motor warms up to operating temp, the pressure increases to 70 at idle and 85 driving. I questioned the gauge so I changed it for a SunPro and I get the same readings. I have a spin on adapter and an oil cooler on this car. I know the pressure is high and intend to adjust the pressure relief once I see what makes sense here. Thoughts? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Mar 17 07:50:17 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 09:50:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090317154937.BD4F018765B@autox.team.net> Sounds like when you cleaned it you ended up with it set a little higher. I'd back it off a bit. - Tony At 09:38 AM 3/17/2009, DLylis at aol.com wrote: >My (formerly) newly rebuilt 3A motor has excellent oil pressure. My gauge >read 65 lbs at idle upon startup and ran about 80 lbs driving. Warm motor >idle was at 50 lbs. Twice now, the pressure has dropped to 20 -30 at >idle and >shutting off the car and waiting returns it to the previous readings. The >driving pressure is as before. Stuck pressure relief, you say. >I agree, so it >removed it and cleaned it and all seemed well. Something >odd happened, however, >which is counter intuitive. Now, as the motor warms up to operating temp, >the pressure increases to 70 at idle and 85 driving. I >questioned the gauge >so I changed it for a SunPro and I get the same readings. I have a spin on >adapter and an oil cooler on this car. >I know the pressure is high and intend to adjust the pressure relief once I >see what makes sense here. > >Thoughts? > >David Lylis >69 TR6 CC26160L >60 TR3A TS74461LO >**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under >$10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From jgillis at tcd.ie Tue Mar 17 08:30:30 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 15:30:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Paper TR2 Parts Message-ID: I have never heard mention or seen in any catalogue the strange material that looks like a stick of twisted paper that sits in a channel behind the B post and is held in place my tabs from the bodywork. Its function (i guess) is to to hold the forward line of screws of the side trim panel and door rear seal. Why did Triumph choose this material, when a slip of wood would surely be more effective, particularly as there is timber-work in the car anyway. I have replaced mine, as "the paper" no longer held the screws, with a slip of softwood. Anyone know what it actually is? Curious John 1954 TR2 (longdoor Irish car) From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Mar 17 08:34:04 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 15:34:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Paper TR2 Parts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <95894882.1447021237304044848.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> John: Can't answer the question abouty "the paper", ( I have done the same), but I do want to know why you consider your car Irish.B Is it just because we're all Irish today ? Andrew Uprichard (Irish - born there) ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gillis" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 11:30:30 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [TR] Paper TR2 Parts I have never heard mention or seen in any catalogue the strange B material that looks like a stick of twisted paper that sits in a B channel behind the B post and is held in place my tabs from the B bodywork. Its function (i guess) is to to hold the forward line of B screws of the side trim panel and door rear seal. Why did Triumph B choose this material, when a slip of wood would surely be more B effective, particularly as there is timber-work in the car anyway. I B have replaced mine, as "the paper" no longer held the screws, with a B slip of softwood. Anyone know what it actually is? Curious John 1954 TR2 (longdoor Irish car) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Tue Mar 17 12:25:29 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 15:25:29 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure Message-ID: Tony, I am befuddled by the increase in pressure as the oil warms. I was not too keen on backing the pressure off a false reading, but now I have two gauges that tell me the same thing. I am going to adjust it back a bit. Any hint as to why this is happening, or should I just be thankful for good oil pressure and move on? David David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Mar 17 13:57:30 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 13:57:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Happy Build-day TS46461L Message-ID: <7bb181af0903171357s4f321ce0u6e12bca7367d9de3@mail.gmail.com> People celebrate birthdays so I suppose cars can have Build-days? The reference to St Patrick's day reminded me that Fred's TR3A is 50 years old today. Congratulations to both of them! Geo From dbh at hamengr.com Tue Mar 17 14:49:31 2009 From: dbh at hamengr.com (David B Hammond) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 14:49:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine building tips References: <20090228221710.C8AEC187647@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I was hoping that someone had some clips that go in the firewall of tr2's and earley tr3's. They are the clips that go in a round hole on the firewall and screws attach the solonoid, steering columne gromet and blanking plate, the fuse box, regulator, etc. I need six of the clips at least. Also, I am looking for the chrome rings for a early tr2 tail light housing. If you dont have the new, which I am not expecting, maybe used parts? thanks, Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 17 15:36:55 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 15:36:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine building tips In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090317223656.HFWH28145.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I was hoping that someone had some clips that go in the > firewall of tr2's and earley tr3's. They are the clips that > go in a round hole on the firewall and screws attach the > solonoid, steering columne gromet and blanking plate, the > fuse box, regulator, etc. I need six of the clips at least. I believe that would be P/N FC2805. TRF shows them in stock, assuming I didn't get the last of them Sorry, can't help with the tail lamp. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Mar 17 16:50:58 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 23:50:58 -0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Authentic LBC smells References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795752E00F12@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <65a0cf8b7827d.49bff117@wright.edu> Message-ID: <040DFB41D2F04FCBBA87DC96747E533A@Bevan> The smell many enthusiasts *ought* to have inside Triumphs that use the fibreboard instrument panels and transmission covers, should be that of wet, raw fish. I well remember seeing those componets being made at a firm called Prestfibre near London. The raw ingredients comprised water, chopped carboard and sawdust to which a substantial amount of fish glue was added as a setting agent. The moulds to make them were made of perforated steel sheet (a male and female version) between which the 'slop' was sandwiched and then baked for about 30 minutes. The whole factory stank of fish, the outside air for about 200 yards stank of fish - and Heralds that leaked, as many did, also stank of fish as well. So if you seek a genuine Triumph LBC smell, never go anywhere without a raw fish somewhere in the cockpit. Do the Concours Judges have this piece of information to ensure cars are truly 'original'? Jonmac From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Mar 17 17:29:48 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 20:29:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49C0083C.16992.19460810@localhost> On 17 Mar 2009 at 15:25, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > I am befuddled by the increase in pressure as the oil warms. I confess to knowing little of the TR oik filter, gauge pickup, and relief valve (if any) arrangement. And I just barely remember the details of the original post. However this is such an intriguing puzzle that it tripped my how-does-it-work glands. I can hypothesize two mechanisms for this behavior. The least likely is that you are running a peculiar oik, something with a viscosity rating of maybe 3w90. It just gets thicker as it gets warmer! Then again, maybe not. Try this. Suppose the oik pump, positive displacement of course, feeds into a journal which has two exit orifices. One is a pressure relief valve which dumps oik back to the sump. The other is the main lubrication route to the bearings, etc. Suppose too that the pressure gauge sensor is downstream from this second orifice. Cold oik would force the pressure relief valve open more. This means the pump is effectively not positive displacement any further downstream. The pressure downstream from the main journal and detected by the gauge would be a sort of equilibrium of the volume coming through the orifice and leaving for the bearings. An electrical analogy would be that of voltage drop along a circuit which contains two resistors with a voltmeter attached to sense the voltage between them. It is different from electricity in the sense that as more oik goes through the orifice the pressure on the opposite side goes up. If the relief valve opens too much, then less oik goes through the main lubrication orifice, and could show lower pressure behind it, especially if there wasn't much viscous "resistance" from the remaining route to the bearings. Other arrangements could possibly be made to produce a similar result but this is the easiest for me to visualize. I would start by checking the relief valve behavior. But what do I know? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Tue Mar 17 17:25:12 2009 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 17:25:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure References: Message-ID: <2397EF6C586E4A718B8A3A24045E5F09@Dell> Just a thought, but as I recall, there are some washers/gaskets of some type, fiber, if I remember correctly that go on the pressure relief valve. If you don't get those back on the same way, it may change the adjustment. Sorry abouot the lack of specificity, I just remember trying to replace those for some reason when I took mine out to clean. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 12:25 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A oil pressure > Tony, > I am befuddled by the increase in pressure as the oil warms. I was not > too > keen on backing the pressure off a false reading, but now I have two > gauges > that tell me the same thing. I am going to adjust it back a bit. > Any hint as to why this is happening, or should I just be thankful for > good > oil pressure and move on? > > David From Loumetelko at aol.com Tue Mar 17 17:52:48 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 20:52:48 EDT Subject: [TR] early TR2 parts Message-ID: In a message dated 3/17/2009 5:39:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, dbh at hamengr.com writes: I was hoping that someone had some clips that go in the firewall of tr2's and earley tr3's. They are the clips that go in a round hole on the firewall and screws attach the solonoid, steering columne gromet and blanking plate, the fuse box, regulator, etc. I need six of the clips at least. Also, I am looking for the chrome rings for a early tr2 tail light housing. If you dont have the new, which I am not expecting, maybe used parts? Mike You will have better luck finding "baby" Tenax snaps than in finding new or even used chrome surrounds for a pre TS1301 tail light. To my knowledge very good reproductions are available only from either Tom Householder in Lancaster, Ohio - _trhouse at greenapple.com_ (mailto:trhouse at greenapple.com) or from John Saunders in the UK - _johnmsaunders at hotmail.com_ (mailto:johnmsaunders at hotmail.com) . While at either gentleman's place you can ask for the clips. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Mar 17 18:04:23 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 20:04:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090318020345.4FC3F18787D@autox.team.net> From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Mar 17 18:20:46 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 20:20:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure In-Reply-To: <20090318020345.4FC3F18787D@autox.team.net> References: <20090318020345.4FC3F18787D@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20090318022007.7AE31187888@autox.team.net> This really said: I missed the detail about it going up as the motor warms up. It sounded like you were seeing 65 idle 80 at speed (50 at idle hot, but had some worrying drops) and now you're seeing 70 at idle and 85 at speed. I missed the "as the motor warms up to operating temp, the pressure increases" piece. What is it before increasing? I don't recall ever seeing the pressure go UP as the oil got hotter, and struggle to come up with a reason why that would happen. - Tony I must have had some HTML in it... At 08:04 PM 3/17/2009, Tony Drews wrote: >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Mar 17 20:26:45 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2009 23:26:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Happy Build-day TS46461L References: <7bb181af0903171357s4f321ce0u6e12bca7367d9de3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <31C86C833A7B4F25B628176A4B2AB850@fred8kwiskhcfu> Many Thanks George, I took her out for lunch (top up), just a very nice birthday here in N. Virginia for a 50th birthday. "FT" ========================================================================================================= ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "TR List" Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 4:57 PM Subject: [TR] Happy Build-day TS46461L > People celebrate birthdays so I suppose cars can have Build-days? > > The reference to St Patrick's day reminded me that Fred's TR3A is 50 years > old today. Congratulations to both of them! > > Geo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Tue Mar 17 20:33:26 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 03:33:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Portland OR Triumph Trans-America Plans? In-Reply-To: <727829168.8691541237347163158.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <676363467.8691891237347206793.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> triumphs at autox.team.net Portland OR Triumph Trans-America Plans? I'd like to know what kind of schedule and plans you have for the reception you are giving John MacCartney. Please reply directly to me at pethier at comcast.net. ADthanksVANCE. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From pethier at comcast.net Tue Mar 17 20:34:37 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 03:34:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] San Francisco CA Triumph Trans-America Plans? Message-ID: <759167583.8692281237347277506.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> triumphs at autox.team.net San Francisco CA Triumph Trans-America Plans? I'd like to know what kind of schedule and plans you have for the reception you are giving John MacCartney. Please reply directly to me at pethier at comcast.net. ADthanksVANCE. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From pethier at comcast.net Tue Mar 17 20:37:30 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 03:37:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Des Moines IA Triumph Trans-America Plans? In-Reply-To: <423616608.8692651237347366510.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2089265133.8693121237347450861.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> triumphs at autox.team.net Des Moines IA Triumph Trans-America Plans? I'd like to know what kind of schedule and plans you have for the reception you are giving John MacCartney. Please reply directly to me at pethier at comcast.net. ADthanksVANCE. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From jmaneke at centurytel.net Tue Mar 17 22:08:09 2009 From: jmaneke at centurytel.net (John R Maneke) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 01:08:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil problem Message-ID: <20090318010809.u5r0dflfnj4ks8w4@webmail2.centurytel.net> I have a rebuilt tr250 motor that is using a lot of oil. Can anyone tell me what the readings should be on a compression gauge? Not sure whether it's the rings or the valve guides but something is wrong. There is enough oil coming from the rocker arm cover to saturate the air filter that is nearest to the hose. Any ideas? Haven't checked the compression yet but plan on buying a gauge tomorrow. John Maneke From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 18 05:33:37 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 08:33:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Engine building tips In-Reply-To: References: <20090228221710.C8AEC187647@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CB75DCE4F6416D-780-22BE@FWM-D40.sysops.aol.com> Me, too.? Please post responses to the list. Dave Massey 57 TR3 I was hoping that someone had some clips that go in the firewall of tr2's and earley tr3's. They are the clips that go in a round hole on the firewall and screws attach the solonoid, steering columne gromet and blanking plate, the fuse box, regulator, etc. I need six of the clips at least.? ? Also, I am looking for the chrome rings for a early tr2 tail light housing. If you dont have the new, which I am not expecting, maybe used parts?? ? thanks, Mike? ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From jmaneke at centurytel.net Wed Mar 18 08:08:47 2009 From: jmaneke at centurytel.net (John R Maneke) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 11:08:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil problem Message-ID: <20090318110847.sgdqinp29e2sc088@webmail2.centurytel.net> Yes I do have roller rockers. Is this a common problem with them? I had an aftermarket aluminium valve cover on for a while but it shed oil even quicker than the factory cover , so I put the factory cover back on since it has an internal baffle. There is a hose that goes from the valve cover to the canister that holds two filters. The hose is not centered and is much closer to one of the filters than the other. This is the filter that is being coated with oil. Should I put in an oil separator from Goodparts to correct this or is there something else that I can do? Is this normal? John Maneke Quoting Craig : > John do a leak down test. This way you will know what problem really is and > how to fix it. > I it running roller rockers if not how do you get oil all over the air > filters? > > Craig From DLylis at aol.com Wed Mar 18 08:34:08 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 11:34:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure Message-ID: Tony, Is it possible that in removing the oil pressure gauge the line drained back. I did not "bleed" the line when I reinstalled the gauge and there is now air between the pressure reading mechanism and the oil in the line. I have substituted a nylon line through which you can see that this is the case when I put in the substitute gauge. As air is compressible and oil is not, might that account for a pressure read increase of 5 lbs as I drive the car? I drove about 50 miles this morning and confirmed that I am now seeing 70lbs at idle of 950 rpm (BPNW 270 cam) and 80 lbs at speed until running for a while and then it goes to 75 and 85. I know I need to turn it down. I used to idle at 600 but BPNW said to turn it up to 950 as my plugs seemed to be loading with fuel when idling at a light if I did not punch the throttle occasionally. It is good at 950. Thanks David David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From hdrider570 at att.net Wed Mar 18 12:23:10 2009 From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 12:23:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure References: Message-ID: I had the same proplems witha TR4. It was a worn out relief spring. I changed the spring out for a new one and everything is normal now. I think that the proplem is that the rate of the spring, once worn, is not progressive so once it starts to move it opens too wide. Edward Hamer Petaluma Ca From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Mar 18 15:20:56 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 22:20:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Paper TR2 Parts In-Reply-To: <95894882.1447021237304044848.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1533545361.9690211237414856688.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Can't answer the question abouty "the paper", ( I have done the same), but I >do want to know why you consider your car Irish. Uh, John, I can answer that.B It's pretty clearly because the car is powerful and exceptionally good looking, with style, grace and speed. Terry Smith, Roots in County Cork. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Mar 18 15:35:57 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 15:35:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0903181535q59e73061jd757178999a7c2d6@mail.gmail.com> On Wed, Mar 18, 2009 at 8:34 AM, wrote: > Is it possible that in removing the oil pressure gauge the line drained > back. I did not "bleed" the line when I reinstalled the gauge and there is > now > air between the pressure reading mechanism and the oil in the line. FWIW, I have never bled that line when re-connecting and have had no strange readings. I suppose it has air in it and yes air is compressible but pressure is pressure and the gauge seems to read fine. I would look elsewhere for the problem. Geo From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Mar 18 19:07:54 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 21:07:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090319030656.C4FF918764C@autox.team.net> From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Mar 18 19:48:16 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 21:48:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure In-Reply-To: <20090319030656.C4FF918764C@autox.team.net> References: <20090319030656.C4FF918764C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20090319034717.7E8A5187652@autox.team.net> Good grief. It really said: It's not air in the line, I never bleed the oil pressure line and the reading is fine. The air volume will change with pressure, but it will pass the pressure along just the same. - Tony At 09:07 PM 3/18/2009, Tony Drews wrote: >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Wed Mar 18 21:04:58 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2009 22:04:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] Paper TR2 Parts In-Reply-To: <1533545361.9690211237414856688.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <95894882.1447021237304044848.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1533545361.9690211237414856688.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20450BF9882749CBAC3876ED15634407@sniffer> Terry, Co. Cork? Isn't that were the Donkey Sanctuary is? Reminds me of my TR3 for sure. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 4:21 PM To: auprichard at comcast.net Cc: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Paper TR2 Parts >Can't answer the question abouty "the paper", ( I have done the same), >but I do want to know why you consider your car Irish. Uh, John, I can answer that.B It's pretty clearly because the car is powerful and exceptionally good looking, with style, grace and speed. Terry Smith, Roots in County Cork. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From jgillis at tcd.ie Thu Mar 19 02:08:32 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 09:08:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 paper parts and Irish Message-ID: As there has been no response to the actual question but a few queries as to what I mean by "Irish car" I have pasted below a reply I sent to Richard on the matter. Hi Andrew, I do like to throw the old Irish thing in every now and then, particularly today. I say Irish because so many of the classic cars in general over here are imported from the UK as classic cars, they are issued a special registration number, and so it is obvious when you spot them at shows which have been recently brought in and which were sold or indeed assembled here from new. There are so many of the "new imports" here that genuine Irish cars fetch a premium at auction or sale. Regards and happy Paddies Day John From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Mar 19 02:54:52 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 09:54:52 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure References: <49C0083C.16992.19460810@localhost> Message-ID: <0BB305DBAD494B60998C5C557DB19BBE@Bevan> Jim Muller wrote: > I confess to knowing little of the TR oik filter Hey, this has to be the 'twin' to fluif!!!!! Looks like Webster doesn't recognise 'oik' . But in UK slang, the Cambridge and Oxford dictionaries respectively describe the term 'oik' as "an uncouth or obnoxious person" and "a rude and unpleasant male from a low social class." With those descriptions in mind, I suppose those who disparage Fram might classify it as an 'oik' filter? Jonmac From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 19 05:14:11 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 08:14:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure In-Reply-To: <0BB305DBAD494B60998C5C557DB19BBE@Bevan> References: <49C0083C.16992.19460810@localhost> <0BB305DBAD494B60998C5C557DB19BBE@Bevan> Message-ID: <8CB76A358DF0AF9-16B4-2294@WEBMAIL-MY39.sysops.aol.com> Although I trust that Jim is, in person, a gentleman the dignified fellow, I also believe that "oik" is exactly the persona he is trying to portray here on the list. Dave Jim Muller wrote:? > I confess to knowing little of the TR oik filter? ? Hey, this has to be the 'twin' to fluif!!!!!? Looks like Webster doesn't recognise 'oik' . But in UK slang, the Cambridge and Oxford dictionaries respectively describe the term 'oik' as "an uncouth or obnoxious person" and "a rude and unpleasant male from a low social class." With those descriptions in mind, I suppose those who disparage Fram might classify it as an 'oik' filter?? ? Jonmac _______________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Mar 19 07:52:40 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 10:52:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] pressure of various sorts Message-ID: <20090319105240.CBX94885@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Re "the TR oik filter?" Jonmac wrote: > Hey, this has to be the 'twin' to fluif!!!!!? Indeed I used the term intentionally a few weeks ago as a parallel to fluif. Though it may be called a twin to "fluif" it is decidedly not identical, "fluif" being of so much more substance, a word with more gravitas. > But in UK slang, the Cambridge and Oxford dictionaries > respectively describe the term 'oik' as "an uncouth or > obnoxious person" and... To this, Dave M replied: > Although I trust that Jim is, in person, a gentleman the > dignified fellow, I also believe that "oik" is exactly the > persona he is trying to portray here on the list. He! I thank you for the "trust" part and I feel compelled to point out that one could read many interpretations into the "belief" part! I would not dream of portraying anyone else here as uncouth or obnoxious. People may form their own opinions as to whether I portray myself that way; it is surely not intentional. More to the point, I am always amazed at the variations in slang between the two people separated by a common language. Profanity is the most dangerous of the shifting ground. Words in common usage in the US, used even as names, words with no taboo component whatsoever, are (apparently) forbidden in civil society across the Pond. Yet I have heard dialog on British TV which would result in serious fines from the FCC here in the US. What's a --- person to do? I frequent neither the OED nor the CED; I have visited London and Oxford and a few points in between but not Cambridge. One cannot navigate without a point of reference. As for LBC content, the --- driveshaft flange on the GT6 will be -------- soon, then I just have to --- -- the -----, put the --- in and install the ---, and with --- it --- be ready to --- before -- ------- ---- --- hot. -- (oh, sorry, make that ---) Jim Muller, trying to be civil From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 19 08:01:21 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 08:01:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] pressure of various sorts In-Reply-To: <20090319105240.CBX94885@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20090319105240.CBX94885@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <0db401c9a8a3$91752940$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Jim Muller, trying to be civil Thanks, Jim, best laugh I've had all day! You're a ---. Randall From eoot at citlink.net Thu Mar 19 08:13:47 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 11:13:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wheel/suspension movement Message-ID: <004701c9a8a5$4dc276b0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> All Need some thoughts on this: TR3 Every time I remount the wheels I always grab top and bottom and test for any movement. Did the right side, no movement. Did the left side and got a little movement. Thinking it to be the wheel bearing, I pulled things apart, tightened the castle nut one flat and put it back together. Still movement. I then took the wheel back off, grabbed the end of the extension and pulled up. The whole unit appears to move a tad. For example, when I do this I see the top of the vertical link move where it connects to the ball joint. As far as I can tell the ball joint arm (I know my terminology leaves something for the imagination) moves as well so I don't think it to be the ball joint. I'm just speculating here. When I look at the whole design of things, I'm not exactly sure what should prevent this movement from happening. Can you enlighten me? If this movement is OK, why none on the other side? Any thoughts, comments, suggestions are always appreciated. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 19 09:11:29 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 09:11:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel/suspension movement In-Reply-To: <004701c9a8a5$4dc276b0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> References: <004701c9a8a5$4dc276b0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: <0dc101c9a8ad$5d479270$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The whole unit appears to move a tad. For example, when I do this I see > the > top of the vertical link move where it connects to the ball joint. Usually, that indicates a bad ball joint. > As far as > I can tell the ball joint arm (I know my terminology leaves something for > the imagination) moves as well so I don't think it to be the ball joint. I'm sorry, Ed, I don't know whether you are referring to what the book calls the "wishbone arms" (which link the ball joint to the inner pivot on the frame); or the tapered peg that connects the ball joint to the vertical link. > When I look at the whole design of things, I'm not exactly sure what > should prevent this movement from happening. Let's use the Moss diagram at http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29136 The body of the ball joint (10) should be fastened solidly to the wishbone arms (8 & 9) (commonly called A-arms on this side of the pond), while the tapered peg (lower part of 10) should be fastened solidly to the vertical link (32). The joint should allow the peg to twist and turn (so the suspension can move), but NOT to move sideways. If the connections are tight and you can see lateral movement, the ball joint is bad and should be replaced. With enough force applied, some small movement at the rubber bushings (2) is normal. But if you can see movement with only hand pressure applied, the bushings are bad and should be replaced. This is by far the most common problem in my experience. Hopefully current supply is made of sterner stuff, but the ones I used to get would start to fail in less than a year. That was the primary reason I converted to Nylatron instead of rubber. Randall From eoot at citlink.net Thu Mar 19 10:24:40 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 13:24:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wheel/suspension movement References: <004701c9a8a5$4dc276b0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> <0dc101c9a8ad$5d479270$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <006701c9a8b7$968ca110$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Thanks Randall. Yes I was referring to the tapered peg of the ball joint. The connection between the VL and the peg appears tight. I can see that connection, including the BY peg move slightly toward the car when I lift on the wheel extension. I don not see any movement above that point at either where the BJ connects to the upper A or at the fulcrum bushings. Never the less, if these are the likely causes, it would appear I am back to pulling things apart....and I didn't even get a chance to check out the results of my steering box rebuild and silent bloc replacement. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 12:11 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel/suspension movement >> The whole unit appears to move a tad. For example, when I do this I see >> the >> top of the vertical link move where it connects to the ball joint. > > Usually, that indicates a bad ball joint. > >> As far as >> I can tell the ball joint arm (I know my terminology leaves something for >> the imagination) moves as well so I don't think it to be the ball joint. > > I'm sorry, Ed, I don't know whether you are referring to what the book > calls > the "wishbone arms" (which link the ball joint to the inner pivot on the > frame); or the tapered peg that connects the ball joint to the vertical > link. > >> When I look at the whole design of things, I'm not exactly sure what >> should prevent this movement from happening. > > Let's use the Moss diagram at > http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29136 > > The body of the ball joint (10) should be fastened solidly to the wishbone > arms (8 & 9) (commonly called A-arms on this side of the pond), while the > tapered peg (lower part of 10) should be fastened solidly to the vertical > link (32). The joint should allow the peg to twist and turn (so the > suspension can move), but NOT to move sideways. If the connections are > tight and you can see lateral movement, the ball joint is bad and should > be > replaced. > > With enough force applied, some small movement at the rubber bushings (2) > is > normal. But if you can see movement with only hand pressure applied, the > bushings are bad and should be replaced. This is by far the most common > problem in my experience. Hopefully current supply is made of sterner > stuff, but the ones I used to get would start to fail in less than a year. > > That was the primary reason I converted to Nylatron instead of rubber. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 19 11:04:04 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 11:04:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel/suspension movement In-Reply-To: <006701c9a8b7$968ca110$650a0a0a@MyComputski> References: <004701c9a8a5$4dc276b0$650a0a0a@MyComputski><0dc101c9a8ad$5d479270$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <006701c9a8b7$968ca110$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: <000c01c9a8bd$179d4d40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Never the less, if these are the likely causes, it would appear I am back > to pulling things apart....and I didn't even get a chance to check out the > results of my steering box rebuild and silent bloc replacement. The good news is that the ball joint is relatively easy to change; you don't need to compress the spring or remove the shock, etc. I think it can even be done without dismounting the brake caliper, tho I'm not certain of that point. ISTR I removed it as well, but without disconnecting the brake line so it's just two bolts (and a piece of wire to support it while you work). Undo the nut that locks the BJ to the A-arms, and pry/tap it out. Depending on the state of your rebound stop, you may need to use a jack to lift under the spring pan, to get room to remove the nut. Then swing the VL around (may need to turn the steering wheel) so you can remove the nut that locks it to the BJ peg. Use your favorite method to remove the tapered peg. I've had good luck with the 3-finger style puller, but the BFH method works too. Reassembly is the reverse The BJ should be held reasonably square to the A-arms while you tighten the nut, until the splines grab and hold. Of course it's up to you if you want to do a full suspension rebuild instead of just changing the BJ. If so, I prefer to start by removing the caliper, shock & spring pan. But it's a lot quicker to just replace the BJ. Randall From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Mar 19 11:19:51 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 11:19:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear Shock mount details--TR4A ~ 6 Message-ID: <24199D74BE9E45229CE8C3E67ABD8AD9@JimofficePC> I am replacing the tubular shock mounts on my TR250. I want to avoid the possibility of frame cracks as reported by the FOT recently. However, as I removed the stock Armstrong Lever Shocks 3 or 4 years ago, I have forgotten exactly how they were mounted to the chassis. The parts book shows that the bolts use only a 'special' flat washer. They are available from Moss and I purchased a set. They appear to be a smaller than standard diameter hardened flat washer. In the past I have usually used lock washers in this type of application. Do any of you folks on the list have any strong opinions on what is best for mounting these lever arm shocks? Thanks in advance, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 From jmaneke at centurytel.net Thu Mar 19 12:44:16 2009 From: jmaneke at centurytel.net (John Maneke) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 15:44:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil problem Message-ID: <20090319154416.qlshcp46v0e8404c@webmail2.centurytel.net> No I am located about 50 miles west of St.Louis, Mo. I plan on calling Richard to talk to him about this problem since most of the parts are already from him. Thanks for the info. John Quoting Craig : > I don't have roller rockers because of all the little problem everybody has > with them. > The first one is the oil feed line it puts too much oil in the valve cover > and not enough where it's needed. > If I was you and sent that much for roller rockers I'd call Richard or TSI > to get some help and work your way thru. > Don't go buying everything out there until you know what's wrong. And I'm > surprise Randall hasn't jumped in on this > > Craig > Also: are you on east coast? From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Mar 19 13:23:11 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 16:23:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Shock mount details--TR4A ~ 6 In-Reply-To: <24199D74BE9E45229CE8C3E67ABD8AD9@JimofficePC> References: <24199D74BE9E45229CE8C3E67ABD8AD9@JimofficePC> Message-ID: Jim, First off........nice job with Master's harness. I wish I had thought of that cable wrap that you used. Very slick. As to the shock issue, I assume you're referring to the Blind Moose or BPNW conversion that utilizes the stock lever shock mount and can crack that mount over time. This was recently discussed at length in the 6-Pack Forum after one member experienced the failure. I had just ordered the Blind Moose conversion which was originally developed by Herman Van Den Akker of 5 speed Toyota conversion fame. I ended up having a long phone call with Herman who has seen the failure but only in cars that HAD NOT added the reinforcing bracket. It's a pretty simple fix that I documented here: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BlindMoose.htm I don't think anyone puts more miles on a Triumph than Herman and Helena do and his mounts have held up fine with the brace. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Bauder Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 2:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rear Shock mount details--TR4A ~ 6 I am replacing the tubular shock mounts on my TR250. I want to avoid the possibility of frame cracks as reported by the FOT recently. However, as I removed the stock Armstrong Lever Shocks 3 or 4 years ago, I have forgotten exactly how they were mounted to the chassis. The parts book shows that the bolts use only a 'special' flat washer. They are available from Moss and I purchased a set. They appear to be a smaller than standard diameter hardened flat washer. In the past I have usually used lock washers in this type of application. Do any of you folks on the list have any strong opinions on what is best for mounting these lever arm shocks? Thanks in advance, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Thu Mar 19 14:12:21 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 17:12:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wheel/suspension movement Message-ID: <5099591A-8710-48C2-B8B1-215959716689@mgcarclub.com> > Every time I remount the wheels I always grab top and bottom and > test for any > movement. Did the right side, no movement. Did the left side and > got a little > movement. Thinking it to be the wheel bearing, I pulled things apart, > tightened the castle nut one flat and put it back together. Still > movement. When I encountered similar play in the wheel, it turned out to be a worn stub axle, primarily at the inner bearing. The inner bearing race "works" up and down on the axle and after 30, 40 or 50 years the under side of the axle wears a couple thousandths. Check the underside of the stub axle for a ridge where the bearings would be. Your play may prove to be elsewhere but this was my recent experience. Allen Hess '62 TR4 From agraham at execulink.com Thu Mar 19 15:36:56 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 18:36:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 Message-ID: <200903192236.n2JMasPQ032628@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello List: Wondering what others have used to replace the horse-hair (?) pads used under the TR2/3 gas tanks? Are there pads under both levels of the tank, or just under the wider section immediately behind the seats. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 19 15:54:05 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 15:54:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 In-Reply-To: <200903192236.n2JMasPQ032628@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200903192236.n2JMasPQ032628@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <009001c9a8e5$9b7e4290$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Wondering what others have used to replace the horse-hair (?) pads > used under the TR2/3 gas tanks? I used ordinary wool felt. At the time, it was sold in the local hardware store, but today you'd probably have to order from MMC or somebody. > Are there pads under both levels of > the tank, or just under the wider section immediately behind the seats. Sorry, it's been too long, I don't recall which way was which now. And possibly it depends on which tank you have (there were at least 3 different tanks that ISTR didn't directly interchange). But as I recall, the lowest part of the tank hung in space while there was a "shelf" of sorts where the weight was supported. That shelf (and under the straps of course) is the only place I used felt. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Thu Mar 19 15:58:00 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 18:58:00 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A front suspension geometry Message-ID: I came across the following article from Classic Motorsports _http://classicmotorsports.net/articles/turn-triumph-turn/_ (http://classicmotorsports.net/articles/turn-triumph-turn/) . This interests me as my TR has the capability of cruising at highway speeds with the new cam and OD and its apparent love of 3000 - 4000 rpms. (4.10 differential). With zero caster and a -hair of camber one might want to pay very close attention while cruising. I am running 185 HR 15 Vredesteins and I can't help but think that these improvements that Tim Suddard suggests will make highway trips more comfortable. Switching to TR6 upper arms and ball joint confuses me a bit though. If you use the TR6 setup and shim the ball joint to the rear as is suggested for positive caster, won't you cause binding in the upper fulchrum pin to upper arm joint? It would seem to me that you would need to machine of some of the rear of the ball joint upper block where it connects to the upper arms and then shim the forward area to move the axis of the ball joint to the rear and therefore tip the vertical link to the rear resulting in positive caster. Simply shimming would spread the upper arms apart more than is stock, and that does not seem like a good thing. Am I missing something? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Mar 19 16:10:53 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 18:10:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil pressure References: <49C0083C.16992.19460810@localhost> <0BB305DBAD494B60998C5C557DB19BBE@Bevan> Message-ID: <4336BE5F42884A22A60FE21DF9F236C8@mikeslaptop> When I look around at all my fellow members, I am comforted by the fact that the "oik" filter is apparently doing its job. Mike > Looks like Webster doesn't recognise 'oik' . But in UK slang, the > Cambridge and Oxford dictionaries respectively describe the term 'oik' as > "an uncouth or obnoxious person" and "a rude and unpleasant male from a > low social class." From rx74evr at mchsi.com Thu Mar 19 16:17:03 2009 From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 18:17:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] (NON-TR) Anyone have Carfax Access right now? Message-ID: Hello all! Wondering if anyone has carfax access right now that could run a report for me? Email me back off the list if you can help. Thanks! Paul Seedoff From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 19 16:40:25 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 16:40:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A front suspension geometry In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <009401c9a8ec$144eb320$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I am running 185 HR 15 Vredesteins and I can't help but think that these > improvements that Tim Suddard suggests will make highway trips more > comfortable. Modifications that are quite suitable for a race car that is torn down and rebuilt in just a few hundred miles may not always be suitable for the street. Also, both negative camber and positive caster are going to increase steering effort, which is not my idea of "more comfortable". > Am I missing something? I think so. Moving the upper pivot point will also put the lower trunnion in a bind. I'm sure Tim forgot to mention converting to the later TR4 trunnions, which have 3 degrees of caster built into them. If they are significantly worn, then you can probably get another few degrees before they start to bind. Just a WAG, but I'll bet his camber adjustment included using rod end bearings instead of the upper bushings. My TR3A seemed plenty stable at speeds over 100 mph; I'm not convinced that adding caster is going to help that any. More negative camber probably would help, with tire wear if nothing else (my 205/55 tires did tend to wear out first along the outer third of the tire), but I never got around to trying it. Tire wear has never been a major concern for me ... wearing out a pair of tires means I get to try something new! Randall From don at napanet.net Thu Mar 19 19:17:37 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 18:17:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] unusual machine Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090319181716.0389e6d8@pop.napanet.net> Subject: A car buddy sent this to me. Very interesting- worth a look. What do you think of this? Here's a new unbelievable copy machine. The old machinists never would have believed this product. http://widgets.nbc.com/o/47f1317f105123ad/49930a9fc57c735f/47fe70d4555df05a/9b5b999b/-cpid/ba4377d3bfd6c Don Scott 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT 1991 Miata BRG 1962 TR4 (seeking) No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.15/2003 - Release Date: 03/15/2009 2:07 PM From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 19 18:56:13 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 19:56:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 In-Reply-To: <200903192236.n2JMasPQ032628@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200903192236.n2JMasPQ032628@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: Angelo, The Triumph Parts book describes them as Felt, but they do feel a bit heavier than that. Moss sells the four pieces, 2-strap and 2-under-tank for $17.45, part number is 849-320. TRF only show to carry one of the under-tank pieces. As the book calls out two under tank pads, 107561 & 107562, I would say that you need one under each level. As a follow up question, has anyone found a suitable, or superior, substitute material for these from a convenient local source? I was think that I might use cork when I get to the tank installation point of my project. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 4:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 Hello List: Wondering what others have used to replace the horse-hair (?) pads used under the TR2/3 gas tanks? Are there pads under both levels of the tank, or just under the wider section immediately behind the seats. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From goh62agan at verizon.net Thu Mar 19 19:23:07 2009 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 22:23:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring ignition Message-ID: List, It's starting to get ugly. I'm working on the wiring under the dash and I need help. My original ignition switch went missing. The replacement switch from eBay has me confused. The switch has Three terminals, one single prong and Two double prongs. My question is: which wires go where? The terminals are numbered 1(single prong),2&3, if that helps. Do I even have the correct switch? My next question is about the voltage stabilizer, but I'll save that for later (something about polarity). Thanks. Gary O From pcaffrey at ymail.com Thu Mar 19 19:39:19 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 19:39:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] unusual machine Message-ID: <181030.5482.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I like it, Don....Heard a similar principle applied to cam shafts. We can get better shafts through imaging -- more efficient and no stem cell experimentation involved. Pat --- On Fri, 3/20/09, don wrote: From: don Subject: [TR] unusual machine To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Friday, March 20, 2009, 2:17 AM Subject: A car buddy sent this to me. Very interesting- worth a look. What do you think of this? Here's a new unbelievable copy machine. The old machinists never would have believed this product. http://widgets.nbc.com/o/47f1317f105123ad/49930a9fc57c735f/47fe70d4555df05a/9b5b999b/-cpid/ba4377d3bfd6c Don Scott 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT 1991 Miata BRG 1962 TR4 (seeking) No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.15/2003 - Release Date: 03/15/2009 2:07 PM This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 19 19:43:33 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 19:43:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring ignition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090320024333.OYM6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > My original ignition switch went > missing. The replacement switch from eBay has me confused. > The switch has Three terminals, one single prong and Two > double prongs. My question is: > which wires go where? The terminals are numbered 1(single > prong),2&3, if that helps. Do I even have the correct switch? It likely is the wrong switch (my diagram shows 4 terminals) but chances are that you can use it if you don't care about the original "accessory" position. First some simple tests. You'll need some way of checking continuity which can be a DMM, ohmmeter, powered test light or even an unpowered light plus your car battery. Turn it off and check that there is no continuity between any of the three terminals. Turn it on and find the two terminals that have continuity (most likely 1 & 2). Then hold it in the start position and check for continuity between all the terminals. If that works, connect the brown/blue wire to terminal 1. White wire and (light) green go to terminal 2 (assuming 1 & 2 had continuity in the 'on' position). White/red goes to terminal 3 (the one that was open in the 'on' position). > My next question is about the voltage stabilizer, but I'll > save that for later (something about polarity). The original stabilizer doesn't care about battery polarity, but the solid state aftermarket replacements will generally only work if you convert to negative ground. Hopefully they are protected against reverse polarity, but I wouldn't want to bet on it Randall From tdskip at yahoo.com Thu Mar 19 19:58:50 2009 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 19:58:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 Message-ID: <240637.69962.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Wouldn't a non-absorbent material be best? (not taking issue with the info your provided Angelo) ------------------------ Angelo, The Triumph Parts book describes them as Felt, but they do feel a bit heavier than that. Moss sells the four pieces, 2-strap and 2-under-tank for $17.45, part number is 849-320. TRF only show to carry one of the under-tank pieces. As the book calls out two under tank pads, 107561 & 107562, I would say that you need one under each level. As a follow up question, has anyone found a suitable, or superior, substitute material for these from a convenient local source? I was think that I might use cork when I get to the tank installation point of my project. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wbeech at flash.net Thu Mar 19 20:17:18 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 21:17:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 In-Reply-To: <240637.69962.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> References: <240637.69962.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <57D625726C504D20AEC47D903E67E228@sniffer> Indeed, that why I was thinking cork instead of felt. I am also going to check at the local fabric store as there are some heavy-duty 100% polyester interfacing materials that might work well too. BB -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Deutsch Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 8:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 Wouldn't a non-absorbent material be best? (not taking issue with the info your provided Angelo) ------------------------ Angelo, The Triumph Parts book describes them as Felt, but they do feel a bit heavier than that. Moss sells the four pieces, 2-strap and 2-under-tank for $17.45, part number is 849-320. TRF only show to carry one of the under-tank pieces. As the book calls out two under tank pads, 107561 & 107562, I would say that you need one under each level. As a follow up question, has anyone found a suitable, or superior, substitute material for these from a convenient local source? I was think that I might use cork when I get to the tank installation point of my project. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Mar 19 20:24:51 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 23:24:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 References: <200903192236.n2JMasPQ032628@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <639E780B0ABA4718B9CA2B91A4C419F1@Edscomputer> List, The absorbent felt had caused a number of tanks I'd seen to rust through, so when it came time to reinstall mine, I used a couple of strips of old inner tube on each side. That was 15 years ago. Ed Woods From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 19 21:05:45 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 23:05:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 References: <240637.69962.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> <57D625726C504D20AEC47D903E67E228@sniffer> Message-ID: <003201c9a911$5046b880$6515a8c0@ranteer.local> when i redid another car (67 datsun roadster) there were a bunch of places the factory used horse hair or somesuch between the body and the frame. it was an equally bad idea in terms of rust. other people had gone to a sports/camping store, and purchased a closed cell foam pad, completely waterproof. that's what i used. ----- Original Message ----- From: "wbeech" To: "'Tom Deutsch'" ; Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 10:17 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 > Indeed, that why I was thinking cork instead of felt. I am also going to > check at the local fabric store as there are some heavy-duty 100% > polyester > interfacing materials that might work well too. > > BB > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Deutsch > Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2009 8:59 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 > > Wouldn't a non-absorbent material be best? > > (not taking issue with the info your provided Angelo) > > > > ------------------------ > > Angelo, > The Triumph Parts book describes them as Felt, but they do feel a bit > heavier than that. Moss sells the four pieces, 2-strap and 2-under-tank > for > $17.45, part number is 849-320. TRF only show to carry one of the > under-tank pieces. > > As the book calls out two under tank pads, 107561 & 107562, I would say > that > you need one under each level. > > As a follow up question, has anyone found a suitable, or superior, > substitute material for these from a convenient local source? I was > think > that I might use cork when I get to the tank installation point of my > project. > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 19 21:41:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 21:41:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 In-Reply-To: <240637.69962.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090320044159.CDCL6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Wouldn't a non-absorbent material be best? My personal experience is "no". I've had several TR3/A tanks out (including a rather rusty Midwest car), and they had more rust where the felt/horsehair was not, than where it was. Two of the tanks were rotted through on the bottom, no doubt from water in the fuel, but not where the felt was. But a friend's TR6 tank appeared to be mounted on something similar to Styrofoam, and was heavily rusted where water (most likely condensation) had managed to get between the foam and tank, and then had no way out. The area was even still damp to the touch, although my friend knew for a fact the car had not gotten rained on for several years at least. Anyway, even that Indiana TR3A that I put felt into back in 1974 or so is still holding it's fuel, so it must not be rusting very badly. Wish I could say the same for the rest of the car! Randall From jgillis at tcd.ie Fri Mar 20 02:35:33 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 09:35:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Tank Pads Message-ID: <1237541733.49c3636503f63@mymail.tcd.ie> Angelo, On re-building my Tr2 I used a material I have access to in work, but I believe is easily found. It is called Polyzote and is an archival expanded foam, this worked very well and will not mop up moisture in the air or spills in teh car. John (1954 TR2) From lherault at bu.edu Fri Mar 20 06:15:01 2009 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 09:15:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A front suspension geometry In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001201c9a95d$e077a580$78d6299b@ad.bu.edu> It's been a long time since I've driven a TR3 but I used to regularly take my '58 on the highway (rt 95) in 1968 at and above the speed limit. I remember once bringing it up to 100 mph (I had to see if an unrestored 10 year old car could still do it) with no problem. I think it had bias ply tires. No, I didn't do it regularly and wouldn't do it today. Besides, if you have a 3, and you are not racing it on a track, where would you go 100? Don't modify a great old car to make it almost a new car. Get the new car and keep the old one old. Although I have only one vintage car, a '73 TR6, I have over 25 antique phonographs. They are spring wound motors and acoustic play back. So why don't I replace the springs with an electric motor and then put a nice light stereo pick up in place of the tone arm and steel needle reproducer? It would be easy enough to make one fit. Ron L (ducking for cover) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Mar 20 07:34:16 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 14:34:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 In-Reply-To: <200903192236.n2JMasPQ032628@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200903192236.n2JMasPQ032628@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: I went to the local carpet store and got a felt carpet pad. It was about a 1/4 inch thick, is very compacted, and can be cut to any dimension you wish. Best regards, Tom > Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2009 18:36:56 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > From: agraham at execulink.com > Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 > > Hello List: > Wondering what others have used to replace the horse-hair (?) pads > used under the TR2/3 gas tanks? Are there pads under both levels of > the tank, or just under the wider section immediately behind the seats. > Thanks for any help with this. > Angelo Graham > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_032009 From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Mar 20 16:01:13 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 23:01:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs In-Reply-To: <000c01c9a8bd$179d4d40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <14882812.10618141237590073067.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I have the original switches in my TR3A.B Issue I have is the way the original knobs were attached to the switches by this kind of spring thingie. Heh heh....B Bet I have the List engineers tingling on THAT term, eh!!!!! Anyway, you know what I mean (I hope). So...during the restoration several years ago, the old switches' spring knob holders were shot, so I drilled completely through the new replacement knobs, tapped the holes in the switch shafts, and installed dinky inset allen screws to hold the knobs onto the switches. Worked fine until I pulled the control panel out again this winter, and had to literally smash the knobs to get them off. What would be a betterB long term solution?B I'm thinking replacement knobs with built in inset screws to clamp onto the shaft.B Anybody know where to source these?B ...Or, is there a way to replace those spring thingies that go on the shaft? Hopelessly inadequate as an engineer, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Mar 20 16:15:04 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 23:15:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Gas tank pads -TR2/3 In-Reply-To: <20090320044159.CDCL6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <899241189.10621441237590904683.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> > Wouldn't a non-absorbent material be best? What I did with my tank, once I soaped, cleaned, tested, and ensured it was solid, was paint it with POR-15, then rested it on a bicycle innner tube cut to proper lengths.B With that kind of prep on the outside, the only thing you should have to worry about is water on the inside. At least, in theory. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 20 16:44:58 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 16:44:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs In-Reply-To: <14882812.10618141237590073067.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <000c01c9a8bd$179d4d40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <14882812.10618141237590073067.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <004301c9a9b5$e1dbc160$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Worked fine until I pulled the control panel out again this winter, and > had to > literally smash the knobs to get them off. So, why couldn't you remove the setscrews? Closest thing I've done is a vent pull knob, that wound up with a Allen head setscrew that went through the original knob hole and a small piece of aluminum, to bear on the bicycle spoke I used as the operating shaft. Worked so well I forgot all about it, until I had to remove it a few months back. Once I remembered the setscrew, I just backed it out and pulled the whole thing off the bicycle spoke. > What would be a betterB long term solution? What about replacement switches? :^) > B I'm thinking replacement knobs > with built in inset screws to clamp onto the shaft.B Anybody know where > to source these? IMO you are unlikely to come up with anything that even faintly resembles the originals. The original knobs are simply too thin in that area to carry threads. > B ...Or, is there a way to replace those spring thingies > that go > on the shaft? I've wondered the same thing, but it doesn't look practical to me. What you might be able to do is tap the existing hole in the switch shaft, and ream the existing hole in the knob a bit oversize. Then push the knob into place and install a short Allen head set screw (maybe 6-32 by 3/16" long) through the knob and thread into the shaft. Maybe with a dab of blue Loctite to keep it from backing out. You can tighten it lightly against the other side of the knob, but not too much or you'll crack the knob. Randall From mrv8q at aim.com Fri Mar 20 20:34:47 2009 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2009 23:34:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs In-Reply-To: <004301c9a9b5$e1dbc160$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000c01c9a8bd$179d4d40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><14882812.10618141237590073067.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <004301c9a9b5$e1dbc160$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <8CB77ED1E1D0B27-508-210D@webmail-de14.sysops.aol.com> On a semi-related topic, someone on this list 5 years ago recommended a white crayon for the lettering on the knob face. It's worked perfectly; looks as nice and white now as it did 5 years ago..... Best, Kevin Browne From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Mar 20 21:40:36 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 00:40:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs References: <000c01c9a8bd$179d4d40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><14882812.10618141237590073067.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <004301c9a9b5$e1dbc160$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <8CB77ED1E1D0B27-508-210D@webmail-de14.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: "White-Out" as used for mistakes while typing. "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 11:34 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs > On a semi-related topic, someone on this list 5 years ago recommended a > white > > crayon for the lettering on the knob face. It's worked perfectly; looks as > nice and white > > now as it did 5 years ago..... > > Best, Kevin Browne > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Fri Mar 20 21:57:43 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 04:57:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <523816053.10067041237611463247.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "fred thomas" wrote: > "White-Out" as used for mistakes while typing. "FT" Invented by Mike Nesmith's mother. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From DLylis at aol.com Sat Mar 21 05:51:35 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 08:51:35 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs Message-ID: I don't get it. Is this a Monkees joke, or true? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From goh62agan at verizon.net Sat Mar 21 05:56:41 2009 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 08:56:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring ignition In-Reply-To: <20090320024333.OYM6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090320024333.OYM6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: OK , I thought I could figure this out but I should have known better. How hard can it be ? I have the wiring diagram. Just plug in the wires , right? The problem with connecting" the" Brown/blue wire to the no. 1 terminal is that there are three brown/blue wires to choose from. Which two attach to the ignition and where does the third brown/blue wire go? The wiring diagram I have shows one brown/blue wire coming from the lighting switch and one coming from the generator control box. Where does the third brown/blue wire come from and what does it connect to? I'm going to have to trace all these wires aren't I? And I'm just getting started here. Yikes! Also how do you know when a good voltage stabilizer goes bad? TIA again. Gary O On Mar 19, 2009, at 10:43 PM, Randall wrote: > > >> My original ignition switch went >> missing. The replacement switch from eBay has me confused. >> The switch has Three terminals, one single prong and Two >> double prongs. My question is: >> which wires go where? The terminals are numbered 1(single >> prong),2&3, if that helps. Do I even have the correct switch? > > It likely is the wrong switch (my diagram shows 4 terminals) but > chances are > that you can use it if you don't care about the original "accessory" > position. > > First some simple tests. You'll need some way of checking continuity > which > can be a DMM, ohmmeter, powered test light or even an unpowered light > plus > your car battery. Turn it off and check that there is no continuity > between > any of the three terminals. Turn it on and find the two terminals > that have > continuity (most likely 1 & 2). Then hold it in the start position and > check for continuity between all the terminals. > > If that works, connect the brown/blue wire to terminal 1. White wire > and > (light) green go to terminal 2 (assuming 1 & 2 had continuity in the > 'on' > position). White/red goes to terminal 3 (the one that was open in the > 'on' > position). > >> My next question is about the voltage stabilizer, but I'll >> save that for later (something about polarity). > > The original stabilizer doesn't care about battery polarity, but the > solid > state aftermarket replacements will generally only work if you convert > to > negative ground. Hopefully they are protected against reverse > polarity, but > I wouldn't want to bet on it > > Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Mar 21 06:54:22 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 09:54:22 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs Message-ID: In a message dated 3/21/2009 7:49:30 AM Central Daylight Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > I don't get it. Is this a Monkees joke, or true? > > David Lylis > Many references indicate that it is true. For example: http://inventors.about.com/od/lstartinventions/a/liquid_paper.htm Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Mar 21 07:08:49 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 10:08:49 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring ignition Message-ID: In a message dated 3/21/2009 7:52:50 AM Central Daylight Time, goh62agan at verizon.net writes: > OK , I thought I could figure this out but I should have known better. > How hard can it be ? I have the wiring diagram. Just plug in the wires > , right? > The problem with connecting" the" Brown/blue wire to the no. 1 terminal > is that there are three brown/blue wires to choose from. Which two > attach to the ignition and where does the third brown/blue wire go? > The wiring diagram I have shows one brown/blue wire coming from the > lighting switch and one coming from the generator control box. Where > does the third brown/blue wire come from and what does it connect to? > I'm going to have to trace all these wires aren't I? And I'm just > getting started here. Yikes! Also how do you know when a good voltage > stabilizer goes bad? TIA again. > Gary O > I don't have a wiring diagram in fron of me but there should be one of those wires on the ammeter. Whether it is that wire or not is what I am unsure of. The symptoms of a bad voltage stabilizer are subtle. Many folks run for years with a bad one without realizing it. What you will see is the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge will read about 25% high. Another symptom is the readings will drop at idle and come back up at speed. Since the fuel gauge is notoriously inaccurate, that is not a reliable indication but if the temp seems a bit high but not in the red but drops down at idle (especially with the lights on) you probably have a bad stabilizer. Your next question is probably "How do I test this off of the car?" Step one: identify the input and output terminals. Step two: connect battery voltage to the input pin and the case. Step three: monitor the output pin with a test light. The test light should switch ON and OFF at a rate of around once a second. If it stays on continuously you need a new stabilizer. Note: The OE stabilizers are not polarity sensitive and will work on negative or positive ground systems. Some of the new replacements use an electronic voltage regulator circuits which are polarity sensitive and will either not work with the wrong polarity or will sustain damage with the wrong polarity. They will also not work as described above. The output is not switched on and off but will be a constant 10V. If think you have one of these you will need to test it with a volt meter. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 21 07:46:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 07:46:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring ignition In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090321144646.HLEA6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Where does the third brown/blue wire come from > and what does it connect to? I don't know. But one way forward is to check that none of them are touching ground, and then connect the battery temporarily. Use a test lamp or voltmeter to discover which brown/blue is hot. That wire will have to go to the ignition switch. If you want, you can connect it now and check the rest of the ignition, as just that wire is enough to allow the engine to run, gauges to come up, etc. Then use your test lamp (better than a voltmeter for this test) between the hot wire and each of the other NU wires. Should be no light. Turn on the headlight switch, check again. The wire that now lights your test lamp is the wire to the headlight switch and needs to be joined to the hot wire in some fashion. Then leave the third one disconnected until you find something that doesn't work. That will tell you more about where it should go. One possibility might be that some DPO has installed the wrong wiring harness and the extra NU is simply extra. Even the diagram in my TR4 owner's manual only shows 2 NU wires. > Also how do you know when > a good voltage stabilizer goes bad? Assuming it's an original type and off the car, my first check would be for continuity between the B and I terminals. No continuity means a defective unit. Then apply 12-15v across the case and the B terminal and connect a test lamp from I to the case. The test lamp should start flashing on and off after a few moments. If so, I would say it works well enough, and install it on the car. If it is already installed on the car (and wired), a quick test is to connect a test lamp or voltmeter across one of the gauge senders. Turn the key on and wait a few moments. If the lamp starts flashing on and off (voltmeter goes between 12v and 0v), the stabilizer is working. There is another test you can do to check the "stabilizer"s calibration, but IMO it's more of a pain than it's worth. These gauges were never all that accurate to begin with, so if it's off a bit, that will be "as original". If you want to improve the accuracy of the gauges, then calibrate them while using your particular stabilizer in the circuit. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Mar 21 08:23:41 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 09:23:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs In-Reply-To: <523816053.10067041237611463247.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <523816053.10067041237611463247.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4FD17898F065454EB3DAC136EE2A16DD@sniffer> I think you are thinking of a pen that goes by the trade name DecoColor and is manufactured by Marvy. It has a nice fine point for writing in the depressed lettered areas of the knobs. I think I got mine at Michaels or JoAnn's for about $2. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Friday, March 20, 2009 10:58 PM To: fred thomas Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs ----- "fred thomas" wrote: > "White-Out" as used for mistakes while typing. "FT" Invented by Mike Nesmith's mother. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Mar 21 09:17:22 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 09:17:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs In-Reply-To: <4FD17898F065454EB3DAC136EE2A16DD@sniffer> References: <523816053.10067041237611463247.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.c omcast.net> <4FD17898F065454EB3DAC136EE2A16DD@sniffer> Message-ID: There was an article in the TRA magazine on this subject. Simply paint the knob with white enamel paint ... wait 60 seconds, then wipe off with Hydraulic Fluif ... leaves the enamel in the letters and shines the rest of the knob. It works . >I think you are thinking of a pen that goes by the trade name DecoColor and >is manufactured by Marvy. It has a nice fine point for writing in the >depressed lettered areas of the knobs. I think I got mine at Michaels or >JoAnn's for about $2. > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From info at classictradespace.com Sat Mar 21 10:21:29 2009 From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 17:21:29 -0000 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <67BBB8E1A6AF49B2BDF369F1ED920D7B@bunce> new to the list and just testing things, not sure how to send a message to the group. hopefully this works. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 21 10:30:30 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 10:30:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: <67BBB8E1A6AF49B2BDF369F1ED920D7B@bunce> Message-ID: <20090321173031.KXTG6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > new to the list and just testing things, not sure how to send > a message to the group. hopefully this works. Looks good, and welcome to the list. An introduction would be nice, maybe a name and what Triumphs you own or might own in the future. Randall 59 TR3A TS39781LO (now totaled :( 56 TR3 TS13571L next project 71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild 71 Stag LE2013LBW daily driver wanna be 57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly 2000 miles away From pete_groh at yahoo.com Sat Mar 21 11:03:06 2009 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 11:03:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Early TR dealership banner, free vendor space TRA 2009 06/19 Friday Message-ID: <49175.77505.qm@web36806.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Triumph car owners may like this photo of a early Dearlership banner. Joel Rosen is the owner; member of the MasonDixon TRA local club. Our chapter is the host for this year event in Charles Town WV. If you have a TR related item or any British car part, dealership items, poster, NOS, lucas, girling parts; etc. may want to set up for the day (FREE). TR2 red banner Message & Forums [IMG]http://i43.tinypic.com/244ns5g.jpg[/IMG] For direct link for layout http://i43.tinypic.com/244ns5g.jpg Also a request on my part, if you are a member of a local Triumph car club or any British car club, can you advise me of the web master e-mail address? Or you can post the event on my behalf. I like to post the event off British Trade web pages, car club sites, or printed newsletters. http://www.triumphregister.com/TRA2009.html Note, will have other TR's awards on displayed based on a Minimum of 6 pre-registrants per class. (Model) Pete Groh (KeyGuy) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Mar 21 15:16:24 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 15:16:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs In-Reply-To: References: <4FD17898F065454EB3DAC136EE2A16DD@sniffer> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903211516g68524e28rd2c5a3d5bff08f6d@mail.gmail.com> (Apologies to Terry who just wanted to get his knobs secured) but another letter treatment is Titanium white artists' acrylic paint applied as Bill P descibes, though it can be removed with water before it is completely dry. From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Mar 21 15:33:16 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 18:33:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Today's seismic event Message-ID: <49C532EC.31877.9BEA69D@localhost> For a few moments this afternoon the walls of Waltham shook to the thunder of a mighty Triumph 2-liter six. Witnesses said the sound was accompanied by the flash of a red GT6 motoring sedately around the block under its own power, exercising all four gears, having first exercised reverse by backing out of the garage. The event organizer was given a brief scare when, after ignition was first achieved following the car's long winter's nap, the engine rev'ed itself much higher than expected. Investigation showed that a throttle return spring had inadvertently become unattached. No further problems were encountered and the remaining activites proceeded as planned. Today was a cold but otherwise excellent day. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Mar 21 17:36:56 2009 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 20:36:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Switch Knobs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7D159B95-DDEE-427C-A369-32322DAF8DC8@comcast.net> If you opt to cosmetically refurbish your knobs, here is an easy-to- follow picture thread. You may find ebay has original knobs in decent condition now and again. http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/267328-dash-knob-refurbish-how.html There are a couple of original knobs/switches now, and here is a newly made set: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-DASHBOARD-KNOB-SET-DASH-KNOB-SET_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem200311027127QQitemZ200311027127QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_500wt_1333 Cheers, Brian From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sat Mar 21 18:11:08 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 21:11:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Frozen Message-ID: <16CD96882880484EBDC7C823DE736A31@Scott> I got around to bleeding the brakes on the 59 TR3 today with the help of a friend. After getting all air out, we tested the brakes and all were fine except the right rear brake is frozen up. You cannot move the drum. I tried backing off the adjuster but this did no good. Any thoughts on what could cause this and the best way to go about correcting it. I tried a rubber mallet, but this did not "free" the shoes. I tried pulling the drum off, but it does not move. I have not gotten aggressive such as using a drift on the back lip of the drum. Everything is new and rebuilt. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 21 18:24:00 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 18:24:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Frozen In-Reply-To: <16CD96882880484EBDC7C823DE736A31@Scott> Message-ID: <20090322012359.VGON22116.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > the right rear brake is > frozen up. You cannot move the drum. Some things to try : 1) Make sure the handbrake cable is slack. Any doubt, disconnect it. 2) Smack the flat outer rim of the drum (not the ridge that sticks up but the cylindrical flat surface) hard with a BFH. Work all around the drum, 3 or 4 times. This has always worked for me (since I've started trying it), and I've never broken a drum doing it. The concept is that you want to hit the drum hard enough to bend it a little (it will spring back afterwards). 3) Working behind the drum, use a brass hammer to drive the slave cylinder first one way then the other in it's slot. If the slave piston is what's stuck, this may force it to retract enough to get the drum off. 4) If you have the 10" brakes with no hold down nail, unbolting the two nuts that hold the adjuster to the backplate might let you pull the drum away. Randall From adcronin at ameritech.net Sat Mar 21 18:39:32 2009 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 18:39:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Corrosion Cells Message-ID: <125482.56274.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Came across the following information in an old book (Rust and Rot) and thought some on the lists might find it of use........ "there are two parts to a corrosion cell, the cathode (stays intact) and the anode (corrodes). In the list of metals below, the greater the distance apart, the greater the corrosive forces..." AL is a special case due to its protective oxidation coating. Carbon Silver 18/8 Stainless Steel Monel metal Bronze Brass Nickel Tin Lead Lead/tin solder Cast iron Wrought steel Mild steel Cadmium Impure Aluminum Pure AL Zinc Magnesium alloy Magnesium (Zinc is a good in-between isolator for dis-similar metals) From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Sat Mar 21 19:30:51 2009 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2009 22:30:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Fuel Pump Gasket for Sediment Bowl Message-ID: <20090322023051.PMHA6.370252.root@hrndva-web11-z01> I decided today that it was time to remove and clean the sediment bowl on my TR4 fuel pump. Something I was not counting on was that the rubber gasket for the sediment bowl was crumbling apart. After just putting everything back together after replacing connecting rod bearings, it looks as if I won't be enjoying the warm weather tomorrow. So I head for the Moss catalog to order a new gasket. I find that they only sell a gasket for the original AC pump. I installed one of the replacement pumps a few years ago. I'm now thinking about cutting my own gasket. What I need to know is where I can get the right type of gasket material. Paul 61 TR4 From goh62agan at verizon.net Sun Mar 22 05:26:35 2009 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 08:26:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring ignition In-Reply-To: <20090321144646.HLEA6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090321144646.HLEA6142.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <635eea0819e0e35af048db831bff484a@verizon.net> On Mar 21, 2009, at 10:46 AM, Randall wrote: >> Where does the third brown/blue wire come from >> and what does it connect to? > > I don't know. But one way forward is to check that none of them are > touching ground, and then connect the battery temporarily. OK, first I need to buy a battery (what size?). > Use a test lamp > or voltmeter to discover which brown/blue is hot. That wire will have > to go > to the ignition switch. Let's hope only one wire is hot. > Then use your test lamp (better than a voltmeter for this test) > between the > hot wire and each of the other NU wires. Should be no light. Turn on > the > headlight switch, check again. OK , I need to buy one of these (headlight switch) as mine is missing. > > One possibility might be that some DPO has installed the wrong wiring > harness and the extra > NU is simply extra. Even the diagram in my TR4 owner's manual only > shows 2 > NU wires. Maybe, but Both my original and replacement wiring harnesses are the same. They have three brown/blue wires. Surely someone else must have this same setup. > >> Also how do you know when >> a good voltage stabilizer goes bad? > > Criminal record? Thanks, Gary O > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as goh62agan at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Mar 22 08:06:34 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 11:06:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Fuel Pump Gasket for Sediment Bowl References: <20090322023051.PMHA6.370252.root@hrndva-web11-z01> Message-ID: I made one out of cork but "gas tolerant rubber" would work, too. Tom Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Fuel Pump Gasket for Sediment Bowl >I decided today that it was time to remove and clean the sediment bowl on >my TR4 fuel pump. Something I was not counting on was that the rubber >gasket for the sediment bowl was crumbling apart. After just putting >everything back together after replacing connecting rod bearings, it looks >as if I won't be enjoying the warm weather tomorrow. So I head for the >Moss catalog to order a new gasket. I find that they only sell a gasket >for the original AC pump. I installed one of the replacement pumps a few >years ago. I'm now thinking about cutting my own gasket. What I need to >know is where I can get the right type of gasket material. > > Paul > 61 TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 22 08:59:07 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 08:59:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 wiring ignition In-Reply-To: <635eea0819e0e35af048db831bff484a@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20090322155906.CVUL133.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > OK, first I need to buy a battery (what size?). I'll let someone else field that one. For my TR3 project, I just bought the cheapest top terminal battery at Wally World; which seems to work just fine but was so small I had to shorten the hold-down clamps. Of course it may not be up to the job in cold weather, but I don't expect that to be a problem for me. > OK , I need to buy one of these (headlight switch) as mine is missing. Hmm. Any chance the 'extra' brown/blue is the one to the headlight switch? I would not have thought it would run back into the harness for such a short distance; but I'm just going by the documentation I have, don't have an actual TR4 to check. Randall From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Mar 22 09:41:12 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 09:41:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Today's seismic event In-Reply-To: <49C532EC.31877.9BEA69D@localhost> References: <49C532EC.31877.9BEA69D@localhost> Message-ID: <15786A37DB5E498193974BCD130ADD75@JimofficePC> Whoo Whoo! Bravo!! Of course I went to a car show yesterday afternoon with about 500 other cars of various marques, styles, and stages of restoration, the weather was in the low 80s!! Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Saturday, March 21, 2009 3:33 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Today's seismic event For a few moments this afternoon the walls of Waltham shook to the thunder of a mighty Triumph 2-liter six. Witnesses said the sound was accompanied by the flash of a red GT6 motoring sedately around the block under its own power, exercising all four gears, having first exercised reverse by backing out of the garage. The event organizer was given a brief scare when, after ignition was first achieved following the car's long winter's nap, the engine rev'ed itself much higher than expected. Investigation showed that a throttle return spring had inadvertently become unattached. No further problems were encountered and the remaining activites proceeded as planned. Today was a cold but otherwise excellent day. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From thomas309 at aol.com Sun Mar 22 13:10:08 2009 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 16:10:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 250 FS, NFI - NY State Message-ID: _http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/1086389039.html_ (http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/cto/1086389039.html) **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220685763x1201394209/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DMarchfooterNO62) From ashleys at kinect.co.nz Sun Mar 22 13:41:50 2009 From: ashleys at kinect.co.nz (Ashley Southgate) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 09:41:50 +1300 Subject: [TR] How to unsubscribe Message-ID: <0AAE9CAB68BA4DC8B8A7ABE70BFD7AE2@customerr1g0ss> Hi! Can any one help Ashley. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Mar 22 13:57:33 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 13:57:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] How to unsubscribe In-Reply-To: <0AAE9CAB68BA4DC8B8A7ABE70BFD7AE2@customerr1g0ss> Message-ID: <20090322205733.JKJJ133.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Subject: [TR] How to unsubscribe Was it something we said? > Hi! Can any one help Click on this link, found at the bottom of every message: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs Near the bottom of that page, you should see a button labeled "unsubscribe or edit options". Click it to get the unsubscribe page. Fill in your email address & password, then click 'Unsubscribe'. That will send you an email message with further instructions (which amount to simply clicking 'Reply' and 'Send' in your email program). If you don't remember your password, you'll need to first click on the button at the very bottom of the page, which will send you an email with a password reminder. HTH Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Mar 22 14:43:32 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 16:43:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] How to unsubscribe In-Reply-To: <0AAE9CAB68BA4DC8B8A7ABE70BFD7AE2@customerr1g0ss> References: <0AAE9CAB68BA4DC8B8A7ABE70BFD7AE2@customerr1g0ss> Message-ID: click on the autox link at the bottom of every email sent from this forum. It will take you to a page that will allow you to unsubscribe. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: ashleys at kinect.co.nz > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 09:41:50 +1300 > Subject: [TR] How to unsubscribe > > Hi! Can any one help > > Ashley. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Mar 22 16:01:49 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 16:01:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Fuel Pump Gasket for Sediment Bowl In-Reply-To: <20090322023051.PMHA6.370252.root@hrndva-web11-z01> References: <20090322023051.PMHA6.370252.root@hrndva-web11-z01> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903221601m581a0197t3f69c6979172281@mail.gmail.com> I, too, use homemade cork gaskets. Just use the glass bowl to draw the outer diameter then sort through your shot glass collection for a suitable size for the ID. As I recall I used 1/16" cork because that is what I had but used 2 thicknesses (i.e. 2 gaskets stacked) to make it cushiony enough to get a good seal w/o excessive tightening. I also used some Blue Hylomar on the gasket for good measure. Geo On Sat, Mar 21, 2009 at 7:30 PM, wrote: > What I need to know is where I can get the right type of gasket material. > > Paul > 61 TR4 From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Sun Mar 22 16:11:23 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 19:11:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Fuel Pump Gasket for Sediment Bowl Message-ID: NAPA has them and the screen and bowl. (they did a year ago). I should have the part numbers but I can't find them. You can start by looking on line. Allen From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Sun Mar 22 16:18:50 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 22 Mar 2009 19:18:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Replacement Fuel Pump Gasket for Sediment Bowl Message-ID: <4E9304FD-7B91-4DEF-A3B6-74AF509549E0@mgcarclub.com> Found it: There are two gaskets: BK7309506, BK7309510 glass bowl: BK7309509 screen: BK7302373 wire bail to hold the bowl: BK7309508, BK7309512 NAPA has them and the screen and bowl. (they did a year ago). I should have the part numbers but I can't find them. You can start by looking on line. Allen From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Mar 23 07:17:42 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 14:17:42 GMT Subject: [TR] VIR route planning Message-ID: <20090323081796.SM07376@[166.70.182.40]> We're planning our travel route from Richmond KY to VIR and I'm wondering if anyone has been on highway 58B between Danville and Hillsville (close to I-77)B in VA.B It appears to be somewhat of a twistyB 2-lane highway.B Not sure if I would enjoy driving our 31' motorhome pulling the race car on a road like that. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Brad From brad.kahler at 141.com Mon Mar 23 07:23:48 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 14:23:48 GMT Subject: [TR] [Fot] VIR route planning Message-ID: <200903230823648.SM07376@[166.70.182.40]> Not sure how the 58B got there but it should have read highway 58. Brad -----Original Message----- From: "Brad Kahler" Sent 3/23/2009 8:16:29 AM To: "fot" Subject: [Fot] VIR route planningWe're planning our travel route from Richmond KY to VIR and I'm wondering if anyone has been on highway 58B between Danville and Hillsville (close to I-77)B in VA.B It appears to be somewhat of a twistyB 2-lane highway.B Not sure if I would enjoy driving our 31' motorhome pulling the race car on a road like that. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Brad Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Mon Mar 23 09:07:13 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 12:07:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] VIR route planning In-Reply-To: <20090323081796.SM07376@[166.70.182.40]> References: <20090323081796.SM07376@[166.70.182.40]> Message-ID: > We're planning our travel route from Richmond KY to VIR and I'm wondering if > anyone has been on highway 58B between Danville and Hillsville (close to > I-77)B in VA.B It appears to be somewhat of a twistyB 2-lane highway.B Not > sure if I would enjoy driving our 31' motorhome pulling the race car on a road > like that. > Any input would be greatly appreciated. > Brad It's a long rough road from Lynchburg to Danville. And a-lyin' on a three-mile grade. From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Mar 23 14:05:02 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 17:05:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire wheels In-Reply-To: <20090322205733.JKJJ133.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <0AAE9CAB68BA4DC8B8A7ABE70BFD7AE2@customerr1g0ss> <20090322205733.JKJJ133.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <180CE55FB924448980ADD94F8117BA67@DCH6RFC1> List: About 6 months ago a friend bought a grubby E-type jaguar with wire wheels. I went to see him today - he has now got the car going and we went for a drive. The amazing thing was the wheels look like they were re-chromed - just beautiful. Turns out he filled his portable sandblaster with baking soda and simply blasted them clean. Honestly - these wheels were beautiful. Made me think I should give it a shot with my ageing wire wheels. But before I do, has anyone ever heard of this ? Andrew Uprichard From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Mar 23 14:24:18 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 21:24:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wire wheels In-Reply-To: <180CE55FB924448980ADD94F8117BA67@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <1728160791.356321237843458990.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> A couple of years ago I had the engine compartment of the TR3A soda blasted and it worked great. There are some concerns about removing the excess powder from cracks and crevices, but this should not be an issue for wire wheels. I'd wear a really good face mask. Tom 60&61 TR3A's, 62 TR4, 73 Stag ----- Original Message ----- From: Andrew Uprichard To: 'Triumphs' Sent: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 21:05:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wire wheels List: About 6 months ago a friend bought a grubby E-type jaguar with wire wheels. I went to see him today - he has now got the car going and we went for a drive. The amazing thing was the wheels look like they were re-chromed - just beautiful. Turns out he filled his portable sandblaster with baking soda and simply blasted them clean. Honestly - these wheels were beautiful. Made me think I should give it a shot with my ageing wire wheels. But before I do, has anyone ever heard of this ? Andrew Uprichard From pryner at verizon.net Mon Mar 23 14:25:33 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 17:25:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire wheels In-Reply-To: <180CE55FB924448980ADD94F8117BA67@DCH6RFC1> References: <0AAE9CAB68BA4DC8B8A7ABE70BFD7AE2@customerr1g0ss> <20090322205733.JKJJ133.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> <180CE55FB924448980ADD94F8117BA67@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <540A8792E1814ED9BD0B9DBF3B0C213A@PetePC> Andrew, Baking soda blasting has been around a few years. My understanding is that you have to have a kit installed on your sandblaster for the baking soda to work. It is a good media to take paint off of body parts because it doesn't hurt the chrome or glass, doesn't heat up like sand so there is no problem with the metal warping and it is environmentally friendly. I have a blaster from HF and plan to get the baking soda kit which is less than $100 do my LBC fenders and doors. There are also companies that specialize in baking soda blasting. I was unaware that it would clean wire wheels. Where they chrome or did he remove the paint from painted ones? Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: "'Triumphs'" Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 5:05 PM Subject: [TR] Wire wheels > List: > > About 6 months ago a friend bought a grubby E-type jaguar with wire > wheels. > I went to see him today - he has now got the car going and we went for a > drive. The amazing thing was the wheels look like they were re-chromed - > just beautiful. > > Turns out he filled his portable sandblaster with baking soda and simply > blasted them clean. Honestly - these wheels were beautiful. Made me > think > I should give it a shot with my ageing wire wheels. > > But before I do, has anyone ever heard of this ? > > Andrew Uprichard From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Mar 23 15:17:41 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 18:17:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire wheels In-Reply-To: <540A8792E1814ED9BD0B9DBF3B0C213A@PetePC> References: <0AAE9CAB68BA4DC8B8A7ABE70BFD7AE2@customerr1g0ss> <20090322205733.JKJJ133.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> <180CE55FB924448980ADD94F8117BA67@DCH6RFC1> <540A8792E1814ED9BD0B9DBF3B0C213A@PetePC> Message-ID: <8686A64FC65F42648A9C549631707364@DCH6RFC1> No - they were chrome. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: Peter Ryner [mailto:pryner at verizon.net] Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 5:26 PM To: Andrew Uprichard; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Wire wheels Andrew, Baking soda blasting has been around a few years. My understanding is that you have to have a kit installed on your sandblaster for the baking soda to work. It is a good media to take paint off of body parts because it doesn't hurt the chrome or glass, doesn't heat up like sand so there is no problem with the metal warping and it is environmentally friendly. I have a blaster from HF and plan to get the baking soda kit which is less than $100 do my LBC fenders and doors. There are also companies that specialize in baking soda blasting. I was unaware that it would clean wire wheels. Where they chrome or did he remove the paint from painted ones? Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: "'Triumphs'" Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 5:05 PM Subject: [TR] Wire wheels > List: > > About 6 months ago a friend bought a grubby E-type jaguar with wire > wheels. > I went to see him today - he has now got the car going and we went for a > drive. The amazing thing was the wheels look like they were re-chromed - > just beautiful. > > Turns out he filled his portable sandblaster with baking soda and simply > blasted them clean. Honestly - these wheels were beautiful. Made me > think > I should give it a shot with my ageing wire wheels. > > But before I do, has anyone ever heard of this ? > > Andrew Uprichard From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Mar 23 16:16:44 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:16:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear wing clamp? Message-ID: <199311.81356.qm@web59406.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm working on initial fitment of the rear wings and in purchasing cage nuts ect. I found that TRF was selling a rear "clamp" for the rear wings. It's a fairly heavy piece of metal approx. 3 inches long with a cage nut welded to it. The end opposite of the caged nut is bent 90 degrees but the bent out part is only about 1/4 inch. I can't figure out where or how they go. Anyone have any ideas? gary n. From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Mar 23 16:23:06 2009 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 19:23:06 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A Front Fender Needed Message-ID: A friend has given up hope of repairing the damaged right front fender of his TR4A and is now looking for a good used one. I'm assuming the same fender from a TR4 thru TR250 would fit. Does anyone know of an available fender? While he could repair the hood (rotted in front) he might prefer to replace it, too. Thanks for any help! We're in Upstate New York. George Haynes ************** Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From mmoore8425 at aol.com Mon Mar 23 16:43:20 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 16:43:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear wing clamp? In-Reply-To: <199311.81356.qm@web59406.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <199311.81356.qm@web59406.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <99AF9C2E-9682-4F24-A242-487696E20046@aol.com> Gary, as i recall it's to hold the upper most rear most corner of the fender on. Mike Moore TS 41723LO On Mar 23, 2009, at 4:16 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm working on initial fitment of the rear wings and in purchasing > cage nuts > ect. I found that TRF was selling a rear "clamp" for the rear > wings. It's a > fairly heavy piece of metal approx. 3 inches long with a cage nut > welded to > it. The end opposite of the caged nut is bent 90 degrees but the > bent out > part is only about 1/4 inch. I can't figure out where or how they go. > Anyone have any ideas? > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 23 20:40:30 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 22:40:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches Message-ID: <000901c9ac32$4a0147f0$6515a8c0@ranteer.local> strictly for those of you who either live there or btdt we are going to be in philadelphia, and then newton NJ (family cemetary) this summer - june - and we're looking for a family beach for a few days. did the ventnor thing before (and saw Lucy), and am looking for a nice family beach farther north. anyone have a recommendation? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 23 19:59:03 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 19:59:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr-3 rear wing clamp? In-Reply-To: <99AF9C2E-9682-4F24-A242-487696E20046@aol.com> Message-ID: <0c8401c9ac2c$7e82ce50$b800000a@jdnet.deere.com> > Gary, as i recall it's to hold the upper most rear most corner of the > fender on. Exactly right. The rearmost bolt in the trunk lid drip rail goes into the caged nut, and the angled tip holds the top rear corner of the fender to the body. Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Mar 24 00:01:53 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 01:01:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758A89346@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C686@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758A89346@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: List, What should one expect to pay for a good condition 4 speed TR6 transmission these days? Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 23, 2009, at 9:30 AM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Mike: > > Not only did you add big $$ to the value of your car, you can impress > everyone by saying that you installed it yourself! And the cruising > RPM makes > top down driving even better. > Now, if I could just find a 100HP additive, and put it in my > crankcase motor > oil. What a rush! > > Vance > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > ] On > Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael > Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2009 9:50 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD Test Run > > This past week I finished wiring the J-Type OD I installed in my > 69. I > couldn't wait any longer, so Thursday evening with a few minutes of > daylight > remaining, I bolted the driver's seat in with two bolts and sans a > seat belt > I > ventured out onto our local back road for a test drive. I was just > amazed > all > the gears actually worked, let alone the OD. I must say, it was a > long > one-second wait when I hit the OD lever. What a sweet feeling. I'm > sure I > was grinning ear to ear. > > Mike > > Corvallis, OR > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net Tue Mar 24 05:37:07 2009 From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net (fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 12:37:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: <314020637.588751237898222519.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1683147612.588801237898227665.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Oliver, It depends what you're looking for, and how much further north.B Sandy Hook and Island Beach State Park are both nice but get very crowded.B Sea Bright and Monmouth Beach are also nice and less crowded.B None of those 4 have much else going on.B If you also want entertainment, Seaside Heights is usually very crowded but good for teens and has a large boardwalk with rides, foods and entertainment.B Point Pleasant Beach is also nice and has a boardwalk, food and entertainment but is better for younger kids.B Personally, my whole family prefers Wildwood Crest, but that's the wrong direction. Tom FitzGibbon Fanwood NJ '67 Spitfire MkII ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: triumphs at autox.team.net, "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 11:40:30 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches strictly for those of you who either live there or btdt we are going to be in philadelphia, and then newton NJ (family cemetary) this summer - june - and we're looking for a family beach for a few days. B did the ventnor thing before (and saw Lucy), and am looking for a nice family beach farther north. anyone have a recommendation? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Mar 24 07:58:18 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 14:58:18 -0000 Subject: [TR] 'Slightly' off topic request Message-ID: <08474AF0F2EB455FA26AF9C1DD12B248@Bevan> Hi, Everyone The Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive draws ever closer and I'm now into trying to sort out comms (communications). While the car is going to be fitted with an Air-Trak system for people to see where I am at any given time, there's also the important issue of 'keeping in touch.' This can be sorted by having a cellphone in the car. Thing is, my own cellphone is a contract type and the contract expires while I'm away. The additional difficulty is that while its a Tri-Band unit, if anyone wants to call me or I want to call them, the costs will be horrendous. To contact me, you'd have to dial a UK number to reach me (even though I might just be down the road) and similarly, my calls to you would also be routed via the local airtime provider to the UK and then back again. I discovered this very much to my cost when at Watkins Glen last September. So my request is this. Does anyone have or know of someone who has a Pre-Pay / Pay As You Go cellphone that originates in the US/Canada they would be prepared to loan or donate to the cause ? While I don't know of all the US/Canadian airtime providers, moseying around the web suggests that Verizon has the most comprehensive coverage - but I'm more than happy to be guided on that issue. I know that Pre-Paid is a costlier route to take in comparison to a contract agreement, but as my stay is only going to be a maximum of four months at the most, it seems pointless. I'm also a bit reluctant to use an additional phone that could be on someone else's contract from the simple perspective of meeting my share of the costs. Therefore, keeping to a pre-pay concept seems the simplest and best way to go. Of course, if anyone knows an airtime provider who would be willing to supply a cellphone with a goodly dollop of free airtime to get me going, we'd be delighted to accept the offer in return for a prominently displayed decal on the Stag. Please be aware that there are already indications of radio and TV networks wanting to contact me, so an in-car phone isn't simply so that SWMBO can keep an eye on me! Any offers, please contact me off list Cheers - Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From fishplate at charter.net Tue Mar 24 09:48:47 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 12:48:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090324124847.NNDVA.46650.root@mp05> ---- Bud Rolofson wrote: > List, > > What should one expect to pay for a good condition 4 speed TR6 > transmission these days? Depends. Are you selling it to me, or buying it from me? I've always used eBay completed auctions to get an idea of whatt hings are worth... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From spitlist at cox.net Tue Mar 24 10:39:30 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 10:39:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? In-Reply-To: <20090324124847.NNDVA.46650.root@mp05> References: <20090324124847.NNDVA.46650.root@mp05> Message-ID: <01174C7E455D40CA9FFF0052C6A7F199@joepentiumnew> Me Too, but in my case, I take the sold price and reduce it by 25 percent! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fishplate at charter.net Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 9:49 AM To: Bud Rolofson; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission? ---- Bud Rolofson wrote: > List, > > What should one expect to pay for a good condition 4 speed TR6 > transmission these days? Depends. Are you selling it to me, or buying it from me? I've always used eBay completed auctions to get an idea of whatt hings are worth... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 24 10:47:46 2009 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 10:47:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Front Fender Needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <564CF33647324DDDB744969E9F26D31C@Gateway1> George, Technically, a TR4 front fender will *fit* a 4A or 250, but it will be missing the mounting holes for the turn signal and the chrome strip. The 4 fender was plain Jane. Brian 67 TR4A, finished and for sale ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2009 19:23:06 EDT From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Subject: [TR] TR4A Front Fender Needed To: triumphs at autox.team.net, DiceyNW at aol.com Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" A friend has given up hope of repairing the damaged right front fender of his TR4A and is now looking for a good used one. I'm assuming the same fender from a TR4 thru TR250 would fit. Does anyone know of an available fender? While he could repair the hood (rotted in front) he might prefer to replace it, too. Thanks for any help! We're in Upstate New York. George Haynes From mmoore8425 at aol.com Tue Mar 24 11:13:20 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 11:13:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? In-Reply-To: <01174C7E455D40CA9FFF0052C6A7F199@joepentiumnew> References: <20090324124847.NNDVA.46650.root@mp05> <01174C7E455D40CA9FFF0052C6A7F199@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <9950C39C-2881-4F4B-8DFC-14D29EE53CA0@aol.com> I recently asked Hermn van den Akker, who used to repair them because I have a very low mileage non-OD one to sell. He thought 400 to 500 was a fair and friendly price price. Mike Moore . On Mar 24, 2009, at 10:39 AM, Joe Curry wrote: > Me Too, but in my case, I take the sold price and reduce it by 25 > percent! > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fishplate at charter.net > Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 9:49 AM > To: Bud Rolofson; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission? > > ---- Bud Rolofson wrote: >> List, >> >> What should one expect to pay for a good condition 4 speed TR6 >> transmission these days? > > Depends. Are you selling it to me, or buying it from me? > > I've always used eBay completed auctions to get an idea of whatt > hings are > worth... > > Jeff Scarbrough > Corrosion Acres, Ga. > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Tue Mar 24 11:14:47 2009 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 14:14:47 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 137 Message-ID: Brian, I thought the fenders were interchangeabve, with the holes being the only difference. Holes can always be added or eliminated as required. Thanks for the note. George ************** Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From rx74evr at mchsi.com Tue Mar 24 11:51:26 2009 From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 13:51:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? References: <20090324124847.NNDVA.46650.root@mp05><01174C7E455D40CA9FFF0052C6A7F199@joepentiumnew> <9950C39C-2881-4F4B-8DFC-14D29EE53CA0@aol.com> Message-ID: Nobody will pay that kind of money for a used tranny anymore (if they ever did?), I just sold a 50,000 original mile perfectly good late TR6 tranny on ebay for $80.00 plus shipping. The market is not there anymore unfortunately.... Paul S ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Moore" To: "Joe Curry" Cc: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 1:13 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission? >I recently asked Hermn van den Akker, who used to repair them because I >have a very low mileage non-OD one to sell. He thought 400 to 500 was a >fair and friendly price price. > > Mike Moore . > On Mar 24, 2009, at 10:39 AM, Joe Curry wrote: From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 16:46:39 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 16:46:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? In-Reply-To: References: <20090324124847.NNDVA.46650.root@mp05> <01174C7E455D40CA9FFF0052C6A7F199@joepentiumnew> <9950C39C-2881-4F4B-8DFC-14D29EE53CA0@aol.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903241646p5b34b584vaf6785b35f4e5f40@mail.gmail.com> I'd have to agree with Paul. When I put an OD in the TR4 I would have gotten $75 (net of shipping) for sending back my perfectly fine non-OD box. I kept it against the day it may be needed in the TR3A but consider it almost worthless to anyone else unless they are in a position to pick it up. On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 11:51 AM, wrote: > Nobody will pay that kind of money for a used tranny anymore (if they ever > did?), I just sold a 50,000 original mile perfectly good late TR6 tranny on > ebay for $80.00 plus shipping. The market is not there anymore > unfortunately.... From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Mar 24 16:51:16 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 19:51:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? References: <20090324124847.NNDVA.46650.root@mp05><01174C7E455D40CA9FFF0052C6A7F199@joepentiumnew><9950C39C-2881-4F4B-8DFC-14D29EE53CA0@aol.com> <7bb181af0903241646p5b34b584vaf6785b35f4e5f40@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: What I find interesting is that good individual gears and or syncro hubs can sell for more money than a complete box. Buy a box for a couple hundred and have all the spares you'll need. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "TR List" Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 7:46 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 transmission? > I'd have to agree with Paul. When I put an OD in the TR4 I would have > gotten $75 (net of shipping) for sending back my perfectly fine non-OD > box. > I kept it against the day it may be needed in the TR3A but consider it > almost worthless to anyone else unless they are in a position to pick it > up. > > On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 11:51 AM, wrote: > >> Nobody will pay that kind of money for a used tranny anymore (if they >> ever >> did?), I just sold a 50,000 original mile perfectly good late TR6 tranny >> on >> ebay for $80.00 plus shipping. The market is not there anymore >> unfortunately.... From DLylis at aol.com Tue Mar 24 17:03:19 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 20:03:19 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? Message-ID: In a message dated 3/24/2009 7:51:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jerryvv at roadrunner.com writes: What I find interesting is that good individual gears and or syncro hubs can sell for more money than a complete box. That is true for your car as well. The sum of the parts is greater than the car as a whole. Want to maximize the ROI on your LBC? Take it apart! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From dwillner at ptd.net Tue Mar 24 17:44:24 2009 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 20:44:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches References: <1683147612.588801237898227665.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <001501c9ace2$d8b840b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> I second Wildwood Crest as the best in NJ, worth the extra ride...been going there for 20 years....it's a huge beach, fairly uncrowded, lots of activities, free beaches, and near the Wildwood boardwalk, great for kids....Just a little north of Cape May which is the epitome of a Victorian beach town with beautiful inns, B&Bs and some excellent shops for the wives... Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "oliver" Cc: ; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 8:37 AM Subject: Re: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches > Oliver, > > > > It depends what you're looking for, and how much further north.B Sandy > Hook > and Island Beach State Park are both nice but get very crowded.B Sea > Bright > and Monmouth Beach are also nice and less crowded.B None of those 4 have > much > else going on.B If you also want entertainment, Seaside Heights is > usually > very crowded but good for teens and has a large boardwalk with rides, > foods > and entertainment.B Point Pleasant Beach is also nice and has a > boardwalk, > food and entertainment but is better for younger kids.B Personally, my > whole > family prefers Wildwood Crest, but that's the wrong direction. > > > > Tom FitzGibbon > > Fanwood NJ > > '67 Spitfire MkII > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "oliver" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net, "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Monday, March 23, 2009 11:40:30 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches > > strictly for those of you who either live there or btdt > > we are going to be in philadelphia, and then newton NJ (family cemetary) > this > summer - june - and we're looking for a family beach for a few days. B did > the > ventnor thing before (and saw Lucy), and am looking for a nice family > beach > farther north. From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Mar 24 18:15:09 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 21:15:09 EDT Subject: [TR] 60 spoke wires + Redlines offered Message-ID: HI, I have 5 painted, 60 spoke wires with Michelin Redlines mounted taking up space in the garage. Four of the wheels are Dayton Brand and I believe one that I used as a spare is an original. The four tires on the Dayton's are used reproduction Michelins not worn out but at least 8 years old. I will sell them big time cheap but you must pick them up in Akron, OH or convince me to ship them by truck, etc to you. Ran them on my TR250 for years but now I have a restored car and a new set of wheels and redline tires. If interested please contact me off List, Darrell **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Mar 24 18:22:43 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 18:22:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: <001501c9ace2$d8b840b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> References: <1683147612.588801237898227665.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <001501c9ace2$d8b840b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903241822i74f80942h4903df614341bd2d@mail.gmail.com> I have never been to the east coast but I was under the impression that California has 'beaches' and Jersey has 'shores'. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 24 16:16:32 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2009 18:16:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <01e201c9acd6$922d2220$b800000a@jdnet.deere.com> > What should one expect to pay for a good condition 4 speed TR6 > transmission these days? What guarantee of "good condition"? If you install it and find it's a bunch of junk, will they pay you to do the R&R again? Just something to think about; no idea what it's actually worth. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Mar 24 21:39:23 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 00:39:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0903241822i74f80942h4903df614341bd2d@mail.gmail.com> References: <001501c9ace2$d8b840b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Message-ID: <49C97D3B.9866.7B21DAB@localhost> On 24 Mar 2009 at 18:22, Geo Hahn wrote: > I have never been to the east coast but I was under the impression > that California has 'beaches' and Jersey has 'shores'. Well, I wouldn't know about New Jersey but back home in Virginia we had beaches. Sometimes I wonder where left-coasters get their ideas of the right coast. If they'd built Denver on the Presidential Range in central New Hampshire it would be 1000ft above tree line. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 25 05:38:26 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 08:38:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0903241822i74f80942h4903df614341bd2d@mail.gmail.com> References: <1683147612.588801237898227665.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><001501c9ace2$d8b840b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> <7bb181af0903241822i74f80942h4903df614341bd2d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CB7B5DBA42F827-D1C-443@webmail-de19.sysops.aol.com> I haven't spent much time on either coast but what I have seen indicates that the California beaches are small pockets of sand stuck in between rocky outcroppings with cold, algae infested water where the beaches on the east coast are vast expanses of white sand with warm, clear water lapping along the shore line.? And the ones in Florida are full of New Yorkers. But what do I know, I prefer the mountains OTOH this might just be a semantic question. Dave ;-) -----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn I have never been to the east coast but I was under the impression that California has 'beaches' and Jersey has 'shores'. ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net Wed Mar 25 07:04:56 2009 From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net (fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 14:04:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: <1511374528.1174831237989798659.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2005013794.1175611237989896102.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> A common misconception.B New Jersey has plenty of beaches, butB they're all B at the Shore.B ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "TR List" Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 9:22:43 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches I have never been to the east coast but I was under the impression that California has 'beaches' and Jersey has 'shores'. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From dwillner at ptd.net Wed Mar 25 07:54:58 2009 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:54:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches References: <2005013794.1175611237989896102.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <000901c9ad59$ab31ec00$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Growing up in north Joisey "down da shore" is the correct term, I've used it hundreds of times (as well as most Joiysians) Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA (transplanted, no "shores") 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Geo Hahn" Cc: "TR List" Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:04 AM Subject: Re: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches >A common misconception.B New Jersey has plenty of beaches, butB they're >all > B at the Shore.B > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Geo Hahn" > To: "TR List" > Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 9:22:43 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches > > I have never been to the east coast but I was under the impression that > California has 'beaches' and Jersey has 'shores'. > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dwillner at ptd.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Harrymague at aol.com Wed Mar 25 09:36:28 2009 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 12:36:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source Message-ID: Hi All. I bought one of the RetroSound radios for my TR6. I originally wanted to just use the normal radio power lead. My problem is that is needs a constant 12V power source to work. Anybody have a good idea where to tap to get the 12V that won't be seen????? Thanks in advance. Harry Mague 74 TR6 CF16623U Beavercreek Ohio **************Great Deals on Dell 15" Laptops - Starting at $479 (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220635228x1201407499/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doub leclick.net%2Fclk%3B213153654%3B34689672%3Bo) From wbeech at flash.net Wed Mar 25 09:43:01 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 10:43:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <99B9ADD1416C46599CA7E37A1E52AE25@sniffer> Do you have a spot in your fusebox that could give you a fused link, for safety, and the constant power that you need? If not, maybe your headlight or ignition switch lead. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harrymague at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 10:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source Hi All. I bought one of the RetroSound radios for my TR6. I originally wanted to just use the normal radio power lead. My problem is that is needs a constant 12V power source to work. Anybody have a good idea where to tap to get the 12V that won't be seen????? Thanks in advance. Harry Mague 74 TR6 CF16623U Beavercreek Ohio **************Great Deals on Dell 15" Laptops - Starting at $479 (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220635228x1201407499/aol?redir=htt p:%2F%2Fad.doub leclick.net%2Fclk%3B213153654%3B34689672%3Bo) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 25 10:29:00 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 13:29:00 EDT Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source Message-ID: In a message dated 3/25/2009 11:37:15 AM Central Daylight Time, Harrymague at aol.com writes: > Hi All. I bought one of the RetroSound radios for my TR6. I originally > wanted to just use the normal radio power lead. My problem is that is > needs a > constant 12V power source to work. Anybody have a good idea where to tap > to > get the 12V that won't be seen????? Thanks in advance. > Since you have a 74 you have the power tap on the battery cable. There are three brown wires attached to it leaving one tab available four your radio. But you will need a 3/8 QC push on connector which are kind of hard to find. But that is the best spot for a high power amp. One of those brown wires goes to the fuse block where it feeds the purple wire circuit (fused). There might be a spare 1/4 in tab on the fuse block that you can use. Be sure and fuse it with the manufacturer's recommended fuse. Dave From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Mar 25 13:09:23 2009 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 13:09:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Transmission In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <53084.78865.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I agree with those who say that a used 4-speed is worth no more than $100 tops. When I switched to a 5-speed TR6 in 2007 I gave away my old transmission (via a posting on this list) to whoever would come and get it, and was happy to do so. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Mar 25 13:55:39 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 16:55:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Transmission In-Reply-To: <53084.78865.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <53084.78865.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 25 Mar 2009, Joe Merone wrote: > I agree with those who say that a used 4-speed is worth no more than $100 > tops. When I switched to a 5-speed TR6 in 2007 I gave away my old > transmission (via a posting on this list) to whoever would come and get it, > and was happy to do so. If you're in the Boston area and you want to give away any TR6 trannies, feel free to drop me a line. I pick-up. :-) Boston is defined as within 120 miles or so as the crow flies. > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF18928 rml TR6's --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Mar 25 14:36:52 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 17:36:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: <8CB7B5DBA42F827-D1C-443@webmail-de19.sysops.aol.com> References: <1683147612.588801237898227665.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><001501c9ace2$d8b840b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> <7bb181af0903241822i74f80942h4903df614341bd2d@mail.gmail.com> <8CB7B5DBA42F827-D1C-443@webmail-de19.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <49CAA3F4.208@comcast.net> From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Mar 25 14:38:56 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 17:38:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: <8CB7B5DBA42F827-D1C-443@webmail-de19.sysops.aol.com> References: <1683147612.588801237898227665.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><001501c9ace2$d8b840b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> <7bb181af0903241822i74f80942h4903df614341bd2d@mail.gmail.com> <8CB7B5DBA42F827-D1C-443@webmail-de19.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <49CAA470.4030201@comcast.net> From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 25 15:41:04 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 17:41:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <013101c9ad9a$c86e7220$f600000a@jdnet.deere.com> Dave Massey wrote: > Since you have a 74 you have the power tap on the battery cable. There > are > three brown wires attached to it leaving one tab available four your > radio. My memory is fuzzy, but isn't at least one of those tabs 1/4" instead of 3/8"? If so, you can find a "splitter" at any store that carries car stereos to allow another wire to be attached. > But you will need a 3/8 QC push on connector which are kind of hard to > find. True, but they can be found. Here's one source: http://tinyurl.com/c8u5n8 > Be sure and fuse it with the manufacturer's recommended fuse. And preferably as close to where you tap power as possible. The wire up to that fuse is totally unprotected, so if it shorts you WILL have an electrical meltdown and possibly fire. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 25 15:47:44 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 18:47:44 EDT Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches Message-ID: In a message dated 3/25/2009 4:37:07 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: > But wait just a minute here...you're in Missouri and prefer the mountains? > Bit of a hike, ain't it? :) > It's a hike to real mountains or real beaches, either way. But we have the Ozarks and some really nice roads there. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Mar 25 15:54:34 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 18:54:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source Message-ID: In a message dated 3/25/2009 5:41:19 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Dave Massey wrote: > > >Since you have a 74 you have the power tap on the battery cable. There > >are > >three brown wires attached to it leaving one tab available four your > >radio. > > My memory is fuzzy, but isn't at least one of those tabs 1/4" instead of > 3/8"? If so, you can find a "splitter" at any store that carries car > stereos to allow another wire to be attached. I never noticed any of them being any different from the other three. If there was one that was 1.4 inch I would have thought they would use that one for the alternator sense wire but it is a 3/8's too. > > >But you will need a 3/8 QC push on connector which are kind of hard to > >find. > > True, but they can be found. Here's one source: > http://tinyurl.com/c8u5n8 I did say kind of. But they are not as readily available as the 1/4 kind which can be had at most any hardware store, Radio Shack and Wal Mart. In some places you can buy just one. I'll have to check the connector kit I got from Horrible Freight, it might have on. > > >Be sure and fuse it with the manufacturer's recommended fuse. > > And preferably as close to where you tap power as possible. The wire up to > that fuse is totally unprotected, so if it shorts you WILL have an > electrical meltdown and possibly fire. Which is true of all the brown wires. But then, I don't know I would design a harness with unfused runs like this. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 25 16:25:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 18:25:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <015c01c9ada1$074804b0$f600000a@jdnet.deere.com> > It's a hike to real mountains or real beaches, either way. But we have > the > Ozarks and some really nice roads there. Any specific recommendations? I'm hoping to get to see the Ozark mountains again in a few weeks (just passing through, unfortunately not in a Triumph), and might swing over by Bagnell dam if there is time. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 25 16:25:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 18:25:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <015d01c9ada1$075fd270$f600000a@jdnet.deere.com> > I did say kind of. But they are not as readily available as the 1/4 kind > which can be had at most any hardware store, Radio Shack and Wal Mart. Yes, of course. I was just saying it wasn't hopeless. > In some places you can buy just one. Here's a partial list of places that at least might have them in stock. Two of these stores are near me, and they have them: http://www.philmore-datak.com/stock.html > I'll have to check the connector kit I got > from > Horrible Freight, it might have on. The one I peeked at in the store did not. > Which is true of all the brown wires. But then, I don't know I would > design > a harness with unfused runs like this. I _know_ I wouldn't! At least the TR6 makes some sense as they were always very minimalist with fuses in the TR2-6; more or less in keeping with their position as "cheap" sports cars. But the Stag has a dozen fuse holders, some of which aren't even used, and they still ran that unfused brown wire all over the place, including through the adjustable steering column and over a sharp edge. Apparently the feeling was that it was better to have a fire than to chance having your headlights go out unexpectedly (due to fuse failure). Having tried it both ways, I'm not sure they were wrong. Shame no one told them about fusible links. Hmm, I wonder, is it possible that Lucas did not make fusible links? Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Mar 25 16:56:40 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 23:56:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Heater Motor In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1656854356.1399681238025400894.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I rebuilt the heater motor several years ago.B This fall, it stopped working.B Taking it apart tonight (Man, I LOVE a garage!), I found corrision.B Not debilitating, but nasty nonetheless.B Now, I'm going down the road of sanding the copper parts and this time putting dialetric on them to keep the rust from coming back insofar as possible.B And I'm going to replace the brush springs and coat them with dialectric to keep them from softening with corrosion over the years too. But just for curiosity's sake, ISTR that electrical contact cleaner is not a good idea for these old motors, as it eats the whatchmacallit stuff that holds the wiring together?B Is there a spray that might work on these old things that can make the corrosion deposits a bit easier to clean up?B Doubt it, but thought to ask.B This, despite the fact that that my wife thinks men do not ask directions.... TerrySmith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Mar 25 17:18:02 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 20:18:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Transmission In-Reply-To: References: <53084.78865.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49CA917A.7536.BE931A0@localhost> On 25 Mar 2009 at 16:55, Robert Lang wrote: > Boston is defined as within 120 miles or so as the crow flies. Boston? Surely you realize that not not even crows can travel in straight lines here. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Mar 25 20:53:43 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2009 22:53:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Heater Motor In-Reply-To: <1656854356.1399681238025400894.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1656854356.1399681238025400894.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <020901c9adc6$75c19300$f600000a@jdnet.deere.com> > Is there a spray that might work on these old > things > that can make the corrosion deposits a bit easier to clean up?B There are purpose-made products that are not supposed to harm the old lacquer, but I don't have any experiences with them. Eg, http://tinyurl.com/dj58x9 IMO the safe thing to do is clean up the brush and commutator area, but keep any kind of solvents (or sharp objects) away from the windings. The electrons aren't that picky. Oh, and "contact cleaner" is NOT appropriate for brushes or commutators either. It's designed to leave an oily film behind, which is suitable for hand-operated sliding contacts, but not powered commutators. Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Mar 25 23:32:08 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 00:32:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission? In-Reply-To: <01e201c9acd6$922d2220$b800000a@jdnet.deere.com> References: <01e201c9acd6$922d2220$b800000a@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <8C85B75F-CD44-43AB-8DE9-0AFFE469D527@comcast.net> Thanks to all who chipped in on this question. There's been a wide range of prices and opinions offered as might be expected given the vagueness of the question. I was looking to sell the 4 speed transmission that came with my TR6 and had purportedly been rebuilt as the same time as the engine in early 1997. I replaced it with an OD transmission from my rustbucket TR6 parts car in 1998 so it didn't have a lot of miles on it as far as I knew and it was a good old rock solid TR6 transmission that had synchros good enough to up shift with out the clutch. The range was from: give it away to $450 by the way. But the comments about the parts in the tranny that are apparently made of "unobtanium" carried the day. Being a pack rat anyhow I was just looking for an excuse to hold on to the tranny so I guess i will keep it for the various parts that a few people ( such as Berry below) mentioned that are not available in the catalogs. Thanks Bud Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 26 05:01:11 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 08:01:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] very OT - New Jersey Beaches In-Reply-To: <015c01c9ada1$074804b0$f600000a@jdnet.deere.com> References: <015c01c9ada1$074804b0$f600000a@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <8CB7C21B07AEFCE-11BC-3E10@webmail-mf11.sysops.aol.com> Highway 160 which crosses the state just north of the border with Arkansas is an interesting drive.? Highway 19 from 160 north to I-70 is a fun road, too and it goes through Hermann, MO which was a hot spot of German sympathizers during WWII.? Hermann has some interesting architecture and a couple of pretty good wineries. Highway 94 from Jefferson City to Weldon Springs is scenic and? follows the Missouri River so it winds around and changes grade frequently but it does get congested east of Augusta so a diversion to Defiance and Daniel Boone's home (not the one in Pennsylvania but the his later home). Onondogoa Cave is one of the prettier caves in the country and certainly much better than Meramec Caverns which is near by. Personally, I eschew Lake of the Ozarks so I can't help much with Bagnell Dam. There are other interesting drives around here, some of which involve ferry rides across the Mississippi if you are interested. Dave Any specific recommendations? I'm hoping to get to see the Ozark mountains again in a few weeks (just passing through, unfortunately not in a Triumph), and might swing over by Bagnell dam if there is time. ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 26 05:04:17 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 08:04:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source In-Reply-To: <015d01c9ada1$075fd270$f600000a@jdnet.deere.com> References: <015d01c9ada1$075fd270$f600000a@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <8CB7C221F32519E-11BC-3E30@webmail-mf11.sysops.aol.com> Apparently the feeling was that it was better to have a fire than to chance having your headlights go out unexpectedly (due to fuse failure). Having tried it both ways, I'm not sure they were wrong. Shame no one told them about fusible links. Hmm, I wonder, is it possible that Lucas did not make fusible links? I thought the whole run was a fusible link.? ;-) Dave ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From rene.p.remond at wanadoo.fr Thu Mar 26 08:36:36 2009 From: rene.p.remond at wanadoo.fr (Rene REMOND) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 16:36:36 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR3A history ? Message-ID: <0B1BC0F0E08E48D2AF69766AE919917F@nom641695c7437> Hi I am writing from France on the help of Andy Graybeal of the TTSCC of California. I have purchased a 1958 TR3A (TS30265L) in Palo Alto and export it in France where it is now, in Normandie. I try to reconstitue its history. Always with the last registration card and the TTSCC i have got an email contact with the previous owner , Mr Ishimoto, who sent me all papers about the TR. He also told me how he purchased the car in 1981 and gave me the name of the owner at this time, a youg girl named Cindy Johnson. I have spent 8 months and many hours behind my PC but at last one week ago i have identified this lady (who is now married with another name of course) and she sent me an email in which she say that she don't remember the name of the previous owner. She have own this car only 2 years. The californian importator of 1958 is no longer, so do you think that it will be able to have other informations about the TR during the period 1958-1980 ???? I have try the CDMV without success ! Thank in advance Reni REMOND FRANCE [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P8300118.JPG] From don at napanet.net Thu Mar 26 10:35:19 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don at napanet.net) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 09:35:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out In-Reply-To: <0B1BC0F0E08E48D2AF69766AE919917F@nom641695c7437> References: <0B1BC0F0E08E48D2AF69766AE919917F@nom641695c7437> Message-ID: <1238088919.49cbbcd7e411d@webmail.napanet.net> Just read the posting from the fellow in France trying to get the history of his CA TR3. I wonder how many of our treasured and loved old British cars have been shipped to other countries. It's no wonder that our hobby is struggling here. The British sports car hobby was huge in the US back in the day. I posted once to the MG list that it would be nice if we had a sort of trust of some kind that kept the remaining cars here in the US. I got hate emails from Europe and Australia saying "no fair, you guys got all the cars when they were new, and it's only fair that they go elsewhere now." My old MGA is in France; my first TR8 went to Germany; second TR8 to Canada; my MGBs are in various European countries. Oh well. Don Scott 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT 1991 Miata BRG 1962 TR4 (seeking) From info at classictradespace.com Thu Mar 26 10:52:10 2009 From: info at classictradespace.com (classic trade space) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 17:52:10 -0000 Subject: [TR] project car Message-ID: <48E3ED40536C4A05BEEE1004F9BFD8A4@bunce> looking for a good Triumph project car if anyone has any available. Dont really mind what model but would like either a TR2,3,4 or 250. Doesnt have to be complete but would like a good solid roller if possible, my friend is also looking for a decent driver . Thanks. From pethier at comcast.net Thu Mar 26 11:13:40 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 18:13:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] project car In-Reply-To: <48E3ED40536C4A05BEEE1004F9BFD8A4@bunce> Message-ID: <1119394567.2052851238091220622.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Location? Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "classic trade space" wrote: > From: "classic trade space" > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:52:10 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] project car > > looking for a good Triumph project car if anyone has any available. > Dont > really mind what model but would like either a TR2,3,4 or 250. Doesnt > have to > be complete but would like a good solid roller if possible, my friend > is also > looking for a decent driver . > > Thanks. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From nwolf at u.washington.edu Thu Mar 26 11:32:52 2009 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 11:32:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out Message-ID: Yeah, and my previous TR4 ended up in Denmark. On the plus side, it's highly likely that the cars will be well taken care of and adored, because it's no small investment to get them there. The best response is to ship more Dolomite Sprints over here. Perhaps we could require a 1:1 trade. =) -Nick '62 TR4 Seattle >Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 09:35:19 -0800 >From: don at napanet.net > >Just read the posting from the fellow in France trying to get the history of >his CA TR3. I wonder how many of our treasured and loved old British cars >have been shipped to other countries. It's no wonder that our hobby is >struggling here. The British sports car hobby was huge in the US back in the >day. > >I posted once to the MG list that it would be nice if we had a sort of trust >of some kind that kept the remaining cars here in the US. I got hate emails >from Europe and Australia saying "no fair, you guys got all the cars when >they were new, and it's only fair that they go elsewhere now." > >My old MGA is in France; my first TR8 went to Germany; second TR8 to Canada; >my MGBs are in various European countries. Oh well. > >Don Scott >1962 MGA Mk II >1973 MGB GT >1991 Miata BRG >1962 TR4 (seeking) From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Mar 26 12:15:22 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:15:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] clutch hydraulics query Message-ID: <20090326151522.CCM94506@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> I drove my GT6 in to work this morning. I'm happy to report that the gearbox worked just fine. I must report unhappily that the clutch is more needy, which is to say less clutchy. It's a problem I've wrestled with before. As I'm driving it seems to build pressure in the hydraulics so that eventually the clutch slips. The quick fix is to crack open the nut where the line goes into the master cylinder, allowing a teaspoon or so of clutch fluif, which is to say brake fluif to escape. It did this a few days ago on a brief drive. It did it again this morning while I was tooling down the highway. A common condition for most occasions that I recall is that it was cold when I started out. And I suspect that if I mash the pedal down too hard it can bring on this condition. Or least not mashing it hard seemed to have avoided it for a long time. I'd suspect a sticky slave cylinder except that this morning it seemed to have come on when I wasn't using the clutch at all. At least not that I recall. Okay, maybe once. An alternate stickiness factor could be the clutch arm scraping against the tunnel cover. I can check it but it's one of those space-age plastic covers with no dangling insulation underneath, so I doubt this possibility. It really seems to correlate to heat. So the question: Is there evidence to suggest that brake fluif expands noticeably with moderate heat? (It isn't getting especially hot.) Perhaps older fluif that might have absorbed water sitting even in an opened once but tightly sealed container? Of course, the obvious fix is just to purchase new cylinders, clear out the line, then use DOT5. Spitbits lists the SC at about $50, the MC OEM for about $150 and MC repro for about $65, IIRC. tanks, Jim Muller '70 GT6+ '80 Spitfire From triumphworks at gmail.com Thu Mar 26 12:24:54 2009 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:24:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out In-Reply-To: <1238088919.49cbbcd7e411d@webmail.napanet.net> References: <0B1BC0F0E08E48D2AF69766AE919917F@nom641695c7437> <1238088919.49cbbcd7e411d@webmail.napanet.net> Message-ID: Hi Don, The Europeans are right, the vast majority 80 to 85 percent of TRs went abroad for export markets to earn hard currency and get their economy out of their post-WWII credit crunch. John Macartney jump in here if you disagree. Way too many LBCs received shoddy love during their American lifetimes and ended up in the scrap heap and presser. Add the strong Euro and until recently very strong pound sterling and very weak dollar and it was a golden opportunity to buy LBCs from where supply was plentiful, here. It also opened a very good window for US sellers or Euro dealers/buyers wanting to arbitrage a good flip sale. I agree with Nick, the cars will get lots of love, care and be right at home. I, too, would welcome more Dolomites and other Triumph saloon cars, Heralds, etc. Alain On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 1:35 PM, wrote: > Just read the posting from the fellow in France trying to get the history of his > CA TR3. I wonder how many of our treasured and loved old British cars have > been shipped to other countries. It's no wonder that our hobby is struggling > here. The British sports car hobby was huge in the US back in the day. > > I posted once to the MG list that it would be nice if we had a sort of trust of > some kind that kept the remaining cars here in the US. I got hate emails from > Europe and Australia saying "no fair, you guys got all the cars when they were > new, and it's only fair that they go elsewhere now." > > My old MGA is in France; my first TR8 went to Germany; second TR8 to Canada; my > MGBs are in various European countries. Oh well. > > Don Scott > 1962 MGA Mk II > 1973 MGB GT > 1991 Miata BRG > 1962 TR4 (seeking) > _______________________________________________ -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From spitlist at cox.net Thu Mar 26 12:27:44 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 12:27:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] clutch hydraulics query In-Reply-To: <20090326151522.CCM94506@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20090326151522.CCM94506@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <54D22FA10BB14E2890ECB6A7229E594C@joepentiumnew> I had this problem with the front brake cylinder on Tiny Tim after I installed the Tilton balance bar. What was happening was the piston was not being allowed to come far enough forward to relieve the pressure in the line. As a result, after a few cycles of braking, the pressure would build up and lock the pads to the rotors. Cracking the bleed valve was enough to reset the system, but redoing the push rod on the master cylinder was required to fix the problem. Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 12:15 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; Spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [Spits] clutch hydraulics query I drove my GT6 in to work this morning. I'm happy to report that the gearbox worked just fine. I must report unhappily that the clutch is more needy, which is to say less clutchy. It's a problem I've wrestled with before. As I'm driving it seems to build pressure in the hydraulics so that eventually the clutch slips. The quick fix is to crack open the nut where the line goes into the master cylinder, allowing a teaspoon or so of clutch fluif, which is to say brake fluif to escape. It did this a few days ago on a brief drive. It did it again this morning while I was tooling down the highway. A common condition for most occasions that I recall is that it was cold when I started out. And I suspect that if I mash the pedal down too hard it can bring on this condition. Or least not mashing it hard seemed to have avoided it for a long time. I'd suspect a sticky slave cylinder except that this morning it seemed to have come on when I wasn't using the clutch at all. At least not that I recall. Okay, maybe once. An alternate stickiness factor could be the clutch arm scraping against the tunnel cover. I can check it but it's one of those space-age plastic covers with no dangling insulation underneath, so I doubt this possibility. It really seems to correlate to heat. So the question: Is there evidence to suggest that brake fluif expands noticeably with moderate heat? (It isn't getting especially hot.) Perhaps older fluif that might have absorbed water sitting even in an opened once but tightly sealed container? Of course, the obvious fix is just to purchase new cylinders, clear out the line, then use DOT5. Spitbits lists the SC at about $50, the MC OEM for about $150 and MC repro for about $65, IIRC. tanks, Jim Muller '70 GT6+ '80 Spitfire Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 26 12:36:32 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:36:32 EDT Subject: [TR] clutch hydraulics query Message-ID: In a message dated 3/26/2009 2:18:15 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > I'd suspect a sticky slave cylinder except that this morning it seemed to > have come on when I wasn't using the clutch at all. At least not that I > recall. Okay, maybe once. An alternate stickiness factor could be the clutch arm > scraping against the tunnel cover. I can check it but it's one of those > space-age plastic covers with no dangling insulation underneath, so I doubt this > possibility. It really seems to correlate to heat. > > So the question: Is there evidence to suggest that brake fluif expands > noticeably with moderate heat? (It isn't getting especially hot.) Perhaps older > fluif that might have absorbed water sitting even in an opened once but > tightly sealed container? > I suspect the master cylinder. Perhaps it is as Joe says and the piston is not returning completely. Or the little cup on the spring on the end that opens the port to the reservoir allowing the excess fluif to return as things heat up became detached from the piston. Cheers Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Mar 26 12:40:56 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:40:56 EDT Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out Message-ID: In a message dated 3/26/2009 12:08:14 PM Central Daylight Time, don at napanet.net writes: > Just read the posting from the fellow in France trying to get the history > of his > CA TR3. I wonder how many of our treasured and loved old British cars have > been shipped to other countries. It's no wonder that our hobby is > struggling > here. The British sports car hobby was huge in the US back in the day. > > I doubt the hobby is struggling from lack of cars. Just look at the wrecking yards. Hardly a month goes by without somebody offering up a still born restoration project for sale, cheap. The single best thing that would support the hobby is a stronger demand for these cars and the resulting higher retail they would command as a result. Dave From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Mar 26 12:49:13 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 12:49:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0903261249y4a30331aq49ea9af10013685b@mail.gmail.com> One reason our hobby may be on the decline in the US is that the typical age of an American British car enhusiast goes up year by year whilst (as any mortality table will show) the numbers go down. I suppose I take a global view here -- any TR (or other cherished vehicle) saved/preserved/enjoyed is good whether it stays in the US or moves to Timbuktu. Geo From DLylis at aol.com Thu Mar 26 14:12:43 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 17:12:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out Message-ID: In a message dated 3/26/2009 3:49:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes: I suppose I take a global view here -- any TR (or other cherished vehicle) saved/preserved/enjoyed is good whether it stays in the US or moves to Timbuktu. I am not sure that the Auburn, Dusenberg, Pierce Arrow community would agree as there was a time when the overseas oil guys were buying these cars for stupid money (its only money, right) as ways to flaunt their wealth. The fear, naturally, is when the next symbol of gluttony comes along, these will no longer be attractive and far out of the reach of those who really care about them. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make meals for Under $10. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 26 14:33:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 17:33:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Spits] clutch hydraulics query In-Reply-To: <54D22FA10BB14E2890ECB6A7229E594C@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <20090326213302.V205O.13070.root@cdptpa-web08-z01> ---- Joe Curry wrote: > I had this problem with the front brake cylinder on Tiny Tim after I > installed the Tilton balance bar. What was happening was the piston was not > being allowed to come far enough forward to relieve the pressure in the > line. As a result, after a few cycles of braking, the pressure would build > up and lock the pads to the rotors. > > Cracking the bleed valve was enough to reset the system, but redoing the > push rod on the master cylinder was required to fix the problem. Yes, exactly. I've heard similar complaints, and causes, from others. If you are sure that the pedal/pushrod is not holding the MC piston slightly depressed (which could be as simple as a missing return spring on the pedal or a slightly too stiff pivot); then the next place to look would be the return spring inside the MC (which has been known to break on occasion, mine came out in 4 pieces); and the link between the MC piston and the foot valve inside the MC. There are different styles of links, and I'm not sure which would be found on a GT6. But there are several ways for it to go wrong and not pull the foot valve open when the MC piston is fully out. Even dry brake fluid will expand with heat enough to be a problem, if the foot valve remains closed. Randall From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Thu Mar 26 14:39:32 2009 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:39:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Sad news- Keith Bryson Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB15FBBA@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Dear List- There is sad news in the Triumph world from Bowling Green, KY today. Keith Bryson, a long time Triumph enthuasist from Bowling Green died in a airplane crash late last night near Lexington, KY. Keith owned a beautiful TR 250 that won best of show a few years back at 6Pack. He also had a Stag and low mileage Jaguar XJ6. Keith and I traveled to many TRF Summer Party's over the years and he truly loved the british car people he met, which would include many on this List. Godspeed Keith- Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Mar 26 14:42:24 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (tr3driver at ca.rr.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 17:42:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090326214224.3FG4Z.13172.root@cdptpa-web08-z01> > Way too many LBCs received shoddy love during their American lifetimes > and ended up in the scrap heap and presser. Hmm, now there's an interesting assertion. I wonder how the percentages compare, of cars shipped to North America that have been scrapped; to those shipped to the UK and Europe. Of course, one would have to factor in the steady flow of prime condition cars back over the pond, which has been going on for at least the past 25 years. Personally, I would guess that gentler climate and lack of MOT in most areas means that the survival rate is somewhat higher over here. Certainly most of the TRs that I have owned would have been crushed if they had to pass the MOT. Randall From triumphworks at gmail.com Thu Mar 26 14:55:10 2009 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 17:55:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cardiff University group studying LBC ownership motivations for buying/owning LBCs - your input welcomed Message-ID: I was contacted by a group of Cardiff University business school students working on a project on the LBC market for TRs, MGs, Healeys and Morgans. They are interested in learning more about the motivations for buying and owning an LBC. Below are their brainstorming efforts. They are working on a project to help the hobby and I offered to poll our Triumph Team Net on their behalf. Any help you can offer will be much appreciated I am sure by their group and I will forward and relay results to the group or anyone interested. Alain ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- *Motivations for why you bought your LBC*: 1) *recapture youth* - pertains mostly to customers who came of driving age from 1945 to 1982 when cars were made. So a driver in 1982 at age 18 was born in 1964 - is now age 45 years old, so the recapture youth segment (it was first or second car in their driving life) may apply to the 45 years old and up market. 2) *family memories* - father, mother or family member drove the cars in the 1960s, 70s, 80s and 90s and I would like one of those cool cars - ages 25 to 45 years old. People born beyond 1965 may fall into this segment. 3) *like to work on simple classic British cars* - Healeys, MGs, Triumphs, Morgans and early Jaguars are all basic cars, easy to work on and attract groups from 30 to 90 years olds who like to work on their cars. 4) *avoid British car taxes* - MOT - this is a motivation in the UK, but is not a motivation in the US as car insurance is about the same for classic or non-classic cars -- if used everyday. Classic car insurance is cheaper than regular car insurance in both countries, but in the US, you can only drive 2,500 to 3,000 miles a year with classic insurance, not a practical solution with the large commuting distances often traveled. 5) *fun relatively affordable weekend, sunny day, summer car* - classic Brit cars appeal to men and women who have enough disposable income to afford a second car for sunny, summer driving. LBCs are luxury toy that doesn't cost as much as a Lotus, Ferrari, Lambo, Maserati or higher-end second-hand sports cars. 6) *inherited cars* - cars are increasingly being acquired and passed on to sons, daughters, nieces and nephews as family heirlooms. Fathers, mother, aunts and uncles may try to interest their kids, etc., in enjoying, keeping and enjoying the British classic car experience. 7) *British classic car experience* - friendships from classic car clubs (the non-car experience), the social networking side of the classic British motoring experience. The picnics, dinner, luncheons, pub meetups, driving tours, trips to chateaux, lakes, wineries, etc. This is a key motivation for the owner and co-owners who often happen to girlfriends, wives/spouses. -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From team.net at daveola.com Thu Mar 26 15:14:07 2009 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:14:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cardiff University group studying LBC ownership In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > I was contacted by a group of Cardiff University business school students > working on a project on the LBC market for TRs, MGs, Healeys and Morgans. > > They are interested in learning more about the motivations for buying and > owning an LBC. > > Below are their brainstorming efforts... Wow, I knew I was a strange cat, but *none* of those apply to me at all. How about: 8) Saw the car, fell in love with a thing of beauty, started driving it and fell further in love with the visceral experience. Bought my first TR3A when I was 17 and the car was almost 30. Drove it every day (that it ran), had never seen one outside of a book and had/have never joined a Brit Car club, never had a family member or friend with one. (In fact, my family tried to talk me out of buying the little british "death trap") Truth be told, at the time I bought the TR3A which was my second choice because I couldn't afford my first choice, the Jag E-Type. I've learned better since then. Someday when I'm loaded with money to burn I'll still get a Jag, but it'll then take second place to my Triumph. :) Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From wbmcleod at gmail.com Thu Mar 26 15:28:17 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (Bill McLeod) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:28:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Frame / Parts to give away Message-ID: <49CC0181.9050002@gmail.com> I have a live axle TR4A Frame (no IRS) left in my shop from dismantling a really bad car (never should have bought it!). There are some minor rust holes in the rear diagonals, but most of it is good and straight with only surface rust. If someone wants to pay the shipping (probably Greyhound) we will be happy to cut off pieces and send them, before it goes to the scrap yard. First come, first served! Thanks, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson, AZ From hdrider570 at att.net Thu Mar 26 16:30:29 2009 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 16:30:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] ref: clutch hydraulics query Message-ID: <684958.4889.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> had a similar proplem on a TR4. It was a bad flex line. The inner lining was colasping and not letting the fluid return fully. Every time you used it it built up a little more pressure. Cracking the bleed valve would release the pressure and start the cycle all over again. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Mar 26 20:27:40 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 19:27:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sad news- Keith Bryson References: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB15FBBA@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Message-ID: <023601c9ae8b$fc930330$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> http://www.kentucky.com/211/story/739722.html ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Thornton" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: "triumphs" Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 1:39 PM Subject: [6pack] Sad news- Keith Bryson > Dear List- > > > There is sad news in the Triumph world from Bowling Green, KY today. > > Keith Bryson, a long time Triumph enthuasist from Bowling Green died in > a airplane crash late last night near Lexington, KY. Keith owned a > beautiful TR 250 that won best of show a few years back at 6Pack. He > also had a Stag and low mileage Jaguar XJ6. > > Keith and I traveled to many TRF Summer Party's over the years and he > truly loved the british car people he met, which would include many on > this List. > > Godspeed Keith- > > > Steve Thornton > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) > Database version: 5.12050 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12050 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From emanteno at gmail.com Thu Mar 26 16:43:24 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 18:43:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cardiff University group studying LBC ownership motivations for buying/owning LBCs - your input welcomed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <354a1780903261643n693dddem9bee983bb7efed92@mail.gmail.com> On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 4:55 PM, Alain wrote: > Any help you can offer will be much appreciated I am sure by their group > and > I will forward and relay results to the group or anyone interested. > > Alain > > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > *Motivations for why you bought your LBC*: > 1) *recapture youth* - When I bought mine, I was 23 and had no need to recapture my youth. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From Harrymague at aol.com Thu Mar 26 17:07:42 2009 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 20:07:42 EDT Subject: [TR] Radio Constant Power Source Message-ID: Thanks to all that replied to my question. I finally decided to tap the hot line to the glove compartment light. Worked just fine. Thanks again. Harry Mague 74 TR6 **************Great Deals on Dell 15" Laptops - Starting at $479 (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219799606x1201361003/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doub leclick.net%2Fclk%3B213153745%3B34689725%3Bo) From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Mar 26 18:04:23 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 21:04:23 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sad news- Keith Bryson Message-ID: In a message dated 3/26/2009 5:40:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com writes: Godspeed Keith- Steve, For sure, tears are in my eyes for our good friend Keith. He was a fine Kentucky gentleman that will forever be in my memories of Triumph travels during the last decade or so. Darrell **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From don at napanet.net Thu Mar 26 19:52:22 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 18:52:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0903261249y4a30331aq49ea9af10013685b@mail.gmail.co m> References: <7bb181af0903261249y4a30331aq49ea9af10013685b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090326184957.033ad028@pop.napanet.net> True, we are getting old! However, the guys that are into muscle cars and hot rods are old too, but that segment of the car hobby seems to be thriving. Don At 11:49 AM 03/26/2009, Geo Hahn wrote: >One reason our hobby may be on the decline in the US is that the typical age >of an American British car enhusiast goes up year by year whilst (as any >mortality table will show) the numbers go down. > >I suppose I take a global view here -- any TR (or other cherished vehicle) >saved/preserved/enjoyed is good whether it stays in the US or moves to >Timbuktu. > >Geo >_______ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.23/2016 - Release Date: 03/21/2009 5:58 PM From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Thu Mar 26 19:04:01 2009 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 20:04:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sad news- Keith Bryson, correct info Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB15FBC4@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> All- Unfortunately, Keith was the pilot. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY ________________________________ From: Richard Seaton [mailto:rsh17 at msn.com] Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 6:39 PM To: gsfuqua1 at aol.com; Steve Thornton; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Sad news- Keith Bryson, correct info Bad information and according to todays Bowlong Green newpaper we have good news, Bryson was not on the plane only the pilot. http://www.bgdailynews.com/articles/2009/03/26/news/news3.txt Richard Seaton RSH17 at msn.com > From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com > Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 18:06:04 -0400 > To: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com; 6pack at autox.team.net > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Sad news- Keith Bryson > > Steve, that is indeed VERY sad news. I was at the 6-pack Trials when Keith > won Best of Show. He and I exchanged many e-mails as I worked on my TR 250 to > try to get it up to Keith's level. He was always kind and generous with his > time and suggestions. Truly an asset to the Triumph Family which will be > greatly missed. > > Cheers to ALL and especially Keith! > > Gary Fuqua > Classic Sports Cars > Branson, MO > **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or > less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rsh17 at msn.com ________________________________ Windows Live(tm) SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage. Check it out. Internal Virus Database is out of date. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.233 / Virus Database: 270.10.18/1937 - Release Date: 02/06/09 11:31:00 From pethier at comcast.net Thu Mar 26 19:47:47 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 02:47:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Cars shipped out In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090326184957.033ad028@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <2034831618.2281591238122067208.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "don" wrote: > True, we are getting old! However, the guys that are into muscle cars > and > hot rods are old too, but that segment of the car hobby seems to be > thriving. > Don Although we are still a microscopic minority, I have noticed that in the last decade and a half that the number of Britcars at the huge (12,000 cars, all ostensibly pre-1965) Back to the Fifties Weekend in Minnesota has increased dramatically. Jags, Triumphs, MGs and Healeys are popping up all over amongst the herds of '57 Chevies and hi-boys. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Mar 26 19:47:43 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 22:47:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cardiff University group studying LBC ownership motivations for buying/owning LBCs - your input welcomed In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49CC060F.8793.11988E90@localhost> On 26 Mar 2009 at 17:55, Alain asked: > *Motivations for why you bought your LBC*: > 1) *recapture youth* Nope. As far as I know I never lost mine. > 2) *family memories* Not a chance. None whatsoever. They tolerated but never understood. > 3) *like to work on simple classic British cars* Sure, I like working on them, but any old Chevy or Ford of the same vintage would be easy to work on too. Could've saved a lot of money by working on someone else's car if that's what I wanted to do. > 4) *avoid British car taxes* Not a chance. > 5) *fun relatively affordable weekend, sunny day, summer car* Well, that's sort've accurate but not complete. A sports car can be a great source of fun, even as one's only vehicle, and LBC's are usually a less expensive option. But so could be an original VW beetle. Or a '56 Chevy. Or a Jeep CJ5. But even less expensive would be simply renting a Dodge Neon for the occasional outing to the country if that's what one wants to do. > 6) *inherited cars* Not a chance. I do wish I had my grandfather's DeSoto. Now there was a car with style, two-tone gray, interesting lines, and a turn signal with a distinctive blink-BLINK, blink-BLINK, blink-BLINK sound. Probably drove like a tank though. > 7) *British classic car experience* Uhhh, really? Maybe some people buy an LBC so they can hang out with the car guys, go to the meetings and stuff. Going to events can be fun, but it's a small fraction of the time an LBC absorbs. The social networking adds to the experience but it isn't the motive. > The picnics, dinner, luncheons, pub meetups, driving > tours, trips to chateaux, lakes, wineries, etc. Where do I sign up? Lemme' check my calendar...what happening next November? > This is a key motivation for the owner and co-owners who often > happen to girlfriends, wives/spouses. All the good stuff happens to girlfriends, wives, spouses. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 26 20:28:37 2009 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2009 22:28:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cardiff University group studying LBC ownership motivations for buying/owning LBCs - your input welcomed In-Reply-To: <354a1780903261643n693dddem9bee983bb7efed92@mail.gmail.com> References: <354a1780903261643n693dddem9bee983bb7efed92@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <235B7FCD-1AD0-47C3-93BD-A16D8027AB82@sbcglobal.net> I don't think I fit into any of their categories either. I bought my spitfire when I was 24. I was looking for a convertible that I could afford, MG's, TR6's and Fiat's were all out of my price range. My 1st car in high school was a VW Karmann Ghia and I think I have always wanted to drive a small convertible, maybe it is because of the time my dad took me to races at mid america raceway in the late 70's and seeing spitfires racing along side VW rabbits and MG midgets. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO http://web.me.com/bobberger/Site/Photos/Photos.html On Mar 26, 2009, at 6:43 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > On Thu, Mar 26, 2009 at 4:55 PM, Alain wrote: > > >> Any help you can offer will be much appreciated I am sure by their >> group >> and >> I will forward and relay results to the group or anyone interested. >> >> Alain >> >> >> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> *Motivations for why you bought your LBC*: >> 1) *recapture youth* - > > > > When I bought mine, I was 23 and had no need to recapture my youth. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as bberger720 at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Fri Mar 27 07:09:33 2009 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (dixie4.wales at virgin.net) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 14:09:33 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] Cardiff University group studying LBC ownership motivations for buying/owning LBCs - your input welcomed Message-ID: <1897954500.5114.1238162973452.JavaMail.mail@webmail02> From L1J1S at aol.com Fri Mar 27 16:42:53 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 19:42:53 EDT Subject: [TR] judson suoercharger tr3 Message-ID: list, does anyone have a interest in a tr3 judson supercharger please contact me. larry schwartz **************Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web. Try the new Email Toolbar now! (http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown00000027) From banjonut at verizon.net Fri Mar 27 21:48:52 2009 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 21:48:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Clutch Bolt Torque needed Message-ID: <65B15409428446CBB7C4F56431F690A0@HAMPC> I've looked in a couple of books and can't find the torque spec for the clutch pressure plate bolts (6 bolts going to flywheel) for my TR3-A. Can anybody tell me what it is? Thanks, Steve Ball Lompoc CA Proving every day, there IS no such thing as a FREE car! '60 TR3A TS68164L email: banjonut at verizon.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Mar 27 23:01:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2009 23:01:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Clutch Bolt Torque needed In-Reply-To: <65B15409428446CBB7C4F56431F690A0@HAMPC> Message-ID: <20090328060200.RLRL5830.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I've looked in a couple of books and can't find the torque > spec for the clutch pressure plate bolts (6 bolts going to > flywheel) for my TR3-A. > Can anybody tell me what it is? 20 ft lb. In the workshop manual/Bentley; page A13/76 "clutch attachment". Randall From banjonut at verizon.net Sat Mar 28 00:28:55 2009 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 00:28:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Torque Specs for Clutch Message-ID: <31E6F2729F3E4364B09A29F932C9EEBA@HAMPC> Thanks to several folks who answered the question about torque specs for Clutch-to-Flywheel bolts...seems like 20 ft-lbs is the required torque. Hope the list has a nice weekend. Steve From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Mar 28 05:40:40 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 08:40:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR8 lube Message-ID: What are the masses running for diff lube in your TR8's these days? Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_032009 From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Mar 28 10:11:31 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 10:11:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil Leak Message-ID: Surprisingly I have an oil leak on the TR3 ... OK joke over ... a little advice needed: Is it possible to replace the timing cover oil seal without removing the apron, radiator? Is it possible that using a speedy sleeve would fix the problem without replacing the seal? I have never used a speedy seal ... any words of wisdom on how they are installed? I have no mechanical fan, narrow fan belt kit installed, including crank dampener. Thanks for your inputs ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Mar 28 14:10:30 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 14:10:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil Leak In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090328211030.JKRE17102.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Is it possible to replace the timing cover oil seal > without removing the apron, radiator? Yes, I have done it. But my car also had no extension for the original fan; it might be harder if the extension is still in place. You have to be able to get that center bolt out; and with the extension the bolt is about 8" long. Without the extension, my bolt is only around 2". > Is it possible that using a speedy sleeve would fix the > problem without replacing the seal? It is marginally possible; but IMO if you've gone that far you might as well pop the cover off and change the seal. Check the timing chain tensioner while you're in there, mine was broken. > I have never used a speedy seal ... any words of wisdom on how > they are installed? It will come with an installation tool. Clean the surface with solvent, then compare the sleeve to the mark where the old seal rode on the hub. If necessary, make a mark so you know how far to drive the sleeve on. (The one I got was long enough that I just drove it on all the way, but ISTR I later found that their book recommends a shorter sleeve.) I like to smear some Loctite on the hub where the sleeve will sit; which really isn't necessary. Set the hub face down on the bench, slide the installation tool over the sleeve then position both of them with the tapered side of the sleeve against the tip of the hub. Bang on the tool with a hammer (not hard, but more than a tap) to drive the seal onto the hub. It expands very slightly as you drive (which is what locks it in place). Then use tin snips or similar (ISTR I used a Dremel with a cutoff blade since it was handy) to make a small cut in the flange, and use pliers to tear the flange away. It doesn't absolutely have to be removed if it won't interfere with anything, but I didn't want to take the chance. There are general instructions available from CR on the web, including at http://tinyurl.com/clxvdy Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Mar 28 14:27:10 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 17:27:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] only GL-4? Message-ID: <005901c9afeb$f504d600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I found a SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil for API Service GL-5, GL-4 and GL-3 for less than $5 a quart. However, is it necessary for me to find it for only "GL-4" service for it to be used in my rear axle/ non-OD transmission? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Mar 28 15:48:26 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 18:48:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] only GL-4? In-Reply-To: <005901c9afeb$f504d600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <005901c9afeb$f504d600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200903281848.27211.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 28 March 2009 17:27:10 dorpaul wrote: > I found a SAE 80W-90 Gear Oil for API Service GL-5, GL-4 and GL-3 for less > than $5 a quart. However, is it necessary for me to find it for only > "GL-4" service for it to be used in my rear axle/ non-OD transmission? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 Paul, I would go with a straight GL-4. GL-5 is not good for brass/copper bushings in your transmission. I picked up a gallon of straight GL-4 at Napa for about 20$. Bob From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Mar 28 16:36:54 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 23:36:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Heater Fan In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1262527853.1100811238283414167.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Had the heater out for repair.B The motor brushes were okay, but the springs wereB rusted through.B Hopscotched to every hardware store in the area until I finally found some 1/4" by 1/4" brushes.B Springs were too long so I snipped them to size.B Bench tested the heater motor with the fan installed by hooking it up to a battery charger.B Hmmmm. Although I had to give it a finger twist to get it moving, it started right up, whirred up to speed, and ran smoothly after a few heatbeats.B But even when it was going as well as it was going to, and probably ever did new, it still wasn't moving much air against my palm.B I tweaked the blades to increase the pitch, but didn't get much appreciably better.B Oh well, it'll be better than the no-heater I had last fall when winter creeps upon its petty pace.B But has anyone been able to supercharge these original heater motors or replace them with something more modern, without replacing the heater as a whole?B I'm almost thinking that some kind of small modern motor with a fabricated adapter would pump out volumes more air. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Sat Mar 28 17:01:47 2009 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Robert Rochlin) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 00:01:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] New Top Installation Message-ID: Hi All, I got a Robbbins Sunfast top from TRF. Rebuilt the frame and started to reassemble the top a couple of days ago. The Sunfast top seems to be of excellent quality and the top frame is straight, but when I fit the top it seems to not fit very well. When the side windows and the section of top between the side and rear windows is tensioned the rear window is slack, not nice and tight. The section of top between the rear and main bow is also slack. I've only gotten as far as installing the rear stiffener and I' m sure I did that correctly. I didn't want to proceed unless I'm sure it's not a problem with the top. It seems as if the top doesn't fit correctly, but I'm a novice at this top fitting stuff. The top that came off fit perfectly. I don't get it. I'm hoping someone else has had anyone had the same experience installing a Sunfast top and can offer some guidance. As a last resort I'll take it to a Robbins recommended installer, and let them have a look at it. Thanks. Bob Rochlin 72' TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Internet Explorer 8  Get your Hotmail Accelerated. Download free! http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/141323790/direct/01/ From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat Mar 28 18:33:11 2009 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 18:33:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Heater Fan References: <1262527853.1100811238283414167.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I replaced the heater fan motor with one meant for a 1971-1978 Freightliner truck, Karquest # HTR 20892. It is the same size as the original Triumph fan motor. The problem is that the mounting is at the wrong end so some brackets have to be fabricated to attach it into the heater core. There may be many ways to do this, but here is one that works. I used 1/8 inch by 1-1/8 inch steel stock. I cut 2 lengths 3 = to 4 inches, enough to be able to put a bend in either end and leave 3 = to 3 > inch straight run which is the length of the motor. I drilled holes in each of the bends to receive the mounting bolts and a large hole at the bottom to pass the wires through due to the unfortunate placement of the mounting studs relative to the wire connections. I have pictures I can sent you off list if you are interested. Bob > Oh well, it'll be better than the no-heater I had last fall when winter > creeps > upon its petty pace.B But has anyone been able to supercharge these > original > heater motors or replace them with something more modern, without > replacing > the heater as a whole?B I'm almost thinking that some kind of small > modern > motor with a fabricated adapter would pump out volumes more air. > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as kinderlehrer at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From triumphs at consolidated.net Sat Mar 28 20:21:58 2009 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2009 22:21:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Flywheel Message-ID: <001201c9b01d$84ee4e00$8ecaea00$@net> Probably the worst movie I have ever set through. Even the nice TR3 could not save this dog! Ken Gano From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Mar 29 11:51:57 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 11:51:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil Leak References: Message-ID: I am happy to report that you can change the tiiming cover oil seal without removing the front apron and radiator ... PROVIDED ... you have removed the stock mechanical fan and/or installed the narrow belt conversion. The TR3 uses the stock oil seal and doss NOT leak ... so far ... It is much easier if there are two persons doing the work, my Son was up for the weekend and we did the project in about 4 hours. Casper (the TR3) now only leaks small amounts in the usual places ... ;-) >My narrow belt crank pulley uses a non-stock oil seal. Found that >one out the hard way. It is possible to change in a TR-4 without >removing radiator (I'm pretty sure, my rad is different), not sure >about a 3. If you have the same issue, seals can be sourced locally >- OD is 2 1/2" if memory serves. Measure the seal surface diameter >on the pulley and take dimensions to the local bearing supply house, >they should be able to look it up. Mine is 1 9/16" pulley surface >diameter. Leaks like a freakin' sieve with the stock seal! > >Had to take the rack and pinion loose to make room, don't remember >if I had to take out the cross brace. I know the 3's steering is >different, not sure if that interferes. > >- Tony > >At 12:11 PM 3/28/2009, you wrote: >>Surprisingly I have an oil leak on the TR3 ... OK joke over ... a >>little advice needed: >> Is it possible to replace the timing cover oil seal without >>removing the apron, radiator? >> Is it possible that using a speedy sleeve would fix the >>problem without replacing the seal? I >>have never used a speedy seal ... any words of wisdom on how they >>are installed? >> I have no mechanical fan, narrow fan belt kit installed, >>including crank dampener. >> >>Thanks for your inputs ... >>-- >>"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people >>undertake it." - Henry Ford >>Bill Pugh >>1957 TR3 >>"Casper" >>TS16765L >>Wallace, CA -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh anabil007 at comcast.net Wallace, CA From don at napanet.net Sun Mar 29 14:22:12 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 13:22:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumph World magazine Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090329130926.0415a200@pop.napanet.net> Hello TR List, Yesterday, I was browsing a book store in Capitola CA, and came across the March copy of Triumph World magazine. I am a magazine nut, with R&Ts back to late 1940s, Life magazines of the '30s and '40s, was even the Practical Classics US subscription agent for awhile back in the 1980s. In this issue there were specialist ads, auction info, TR history, TR events, classified ads, article on VTR in the US, article on TR7 restoration, article on installing power steering on a TR6. With the poor exchange rate of US$ to UK#, buying British magazines is a bit of a stretch. However, they have advertised a promotion of one year subscription for #36 to USA. The offer expires 31 Match 2009. It's still not cheap, but I'm gonna subscribe. Don Scott Calistoga 1962 MGA Mk II 1991 Miata BRG 1973 MGB GT 1962 TR4 (seeking) http://www.triumph-world.co.uk/ -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.31/2028 - Release Date: 03/28/2009 7:16 AM From don at napanet.net Sun Mar 29 14:24:31 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 13:24:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumph World magazine Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090329132400.03404c48@pop.napanet.net> oops should read The offer expires 31 March 2009. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.31/2028 - Release Date: 03/28/2009 7:16 AM From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Mar 29 15:26:59 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 22:26:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Gasoline goop In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1112235953.1335091238365619583.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> To date I've used Hylomar forB all gaskets that sees oil or gasoline.B Works perfect.B However, am now fabricating a flange to adapt a modern Sunpro fuel tank sending unit to the TR3A tank.B The original rubber-type gasket under the sending unit will be re-used and will be fine.B But because the screw holes on the Sunpro sending unit are a bit off kilter, I'll be putting a Plexiglass cover on top in order to seal off the top end.B To seal the top, I've made up a carburetor-paper-type gasket.B I'm sure Hylomar will probably work fine.B The paper is going on a flat surface of the Sunpro sender, and will be held in place by a flat surface of the Plexiglass.B Nevertheless, while I know silicone is out of the question, does anybody know if there is something that fills gaps a bit better than Hylomar, yet is impervious to gas?B ...Short of those putty sticks that one must knead and mold? Doubt it, but thought I'd ask. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New HampshireB ( From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Mar 29 16:11:19 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 19:11:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph World magazine In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090329130926.0415a200@pop.napanet.net> References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090329130926.0415a200@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <200903291911.19542.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 29 March 2009 17:22:12 don wrote: > Hello TR List, > > Yesterday, I was browsing a book store in Capitola CA, and came across the > March copy of Triumph World magazine. I am a magazine nut, with R&Ts back > to late 1940s, Life magazines of the '30s and '40s, was even the Practical > Classics US subscription agent for awhile back in the 1980s. > > In this issue there were specialist ads, auction info, TR history, TR > events, classified ads, article on VTR in the US, article on TR7 > restoration, article on installing power steering on a TR6. > > With the poor exchange rate of US$ to UK#, buying British magazines is a > bit of a stretch. However, they have advertised a promotion of one year > subscription for #36 to USA. The offer expires 31 Match 2009. It's still > not cheap, but I'm gonna subscribe. > > Don Scott > Calistoga > 1962 MGA Mk II > 1991 Miata BRG > 1973 MGB GT > 1962 TR4 (seeking) > > > http://www.triumph-world.co.uk/ > Don, My wife picked up that exact copy at a Barns & Noble in Clearwater Fl a few weeks ago for the plane ride home. Good reading to pass the time from Tampa to Albany. But with hectic schedule, don't have much time for magazines these days. I am lucky if I get to read the VTR publication. Bob From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Mar 29 16:47:42 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 16:47:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gasoline goop In-Reply-To: <1112235953.1335091238365619583.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1112235953.1335091238365619583.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903291647h2fbd60te048700ce34b557@mail.gmail.com> FWIW -- when I replaced the stock sender I made a new gasket from cork and used Hylomar. You might find 1/16" cork (w/Hylomar) conforms better than the paper you describe if the surfaces are not exactly perfect. Geo On Sun, Mar 29, 2009 at 3:26 PM, wrote: > ...does anybody know > if there is something that fills gaps a bit better than Hylomar, yet is > impervious to gas? From spitfire at freebacon.net Sun Mar 29 16:56:48 2009 From: spitfire at freebacon.net (Mike Welch) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 17:56:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph World magazine In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090329130926.0415a200@pop.napanet.net> References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090329130926.0415a200@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <8265497D21CF42ED82CB7A958B38A3A7@Spike> I only see the regular 1 year for #42 GBP, which is about $60 US. Do they give a special link or promo code for the #36 price? Mike Welch '69 Triumph Spitfire MkIII (2) ----- Original Message ----- From: "don" To: Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 3:22 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph World magazine > Hello TR List, > > Yesterday, I was browsing a book store in Capitola CA, and came across the > March copy of Triumph World magazine. I am a magazine nut, with R&Ts back > to late 1940s, Life magazines of the '30s and '40s, was even the Practical > Classics US subscription agent for awhile back in the 1980s. > > In this issue there were specialist ads, auction info, TR history, TR > events, classified ads, article on VTR in the US, article on TR7 > restoration, article on installing power steering on a TR6. > > With the poor exchange rate of US$ to UK#, buying British magazines is a > bit of a stretch. However, they have advertised a promotion of one year > subscription for #36 to USA. The offer expires 31 Match 2009. It's still > not cheap, but I'm gonna subscribe. > > Don Scott > Calistoga > 1962 MGA Mk II > 1991 Miata BRG > 1973 MGB GT > 1962 TR4 (seeking) > > > http://www.triumph-world.co.uk/ > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.557 / Virus Database: 270.11.31/2028 - Release Date: > 03/28/2009 > 7:16 AM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitfire at freebacon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sun Mar 29 20:22:30 2009 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2009 20:22:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Looking for 1954 TR2 Message-ID: <49D03AF6.6000905@greenheart.com> Hello all.... I'm looking for a barn-find type long door TR2.... It should be the sort of old beater that's tired enough to bring the price to something less than $5K, but it's vital that it's a sun-belt TR.. low rust. The future of the car would be 1/2 donor for a current long door TR2 project, but a possible vintage racer for the core vehicle. So it would be a win-win. In the short term, it may yield some vital organs (misc. parts) for one car, and in the future, it would be brought back to life itself. So low price, low rust.... They're out there somewhere. I always seem to find them a few weeks after they were sold to someone else! : ) If you know of a vehicle like this, sitting around somewhere, please help me to make contact with the owner. --Justin From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net Mon Mar 30 07:19:00 2009 From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 10:19:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: Does anyone know the correct green color for the oil filter canister on a TR3A? TIA Fred TS 57038 From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Mon Mar 30 07:29:04 2009 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 09:29:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <41E5F1D93FAA4F2E96FEC563BDF7A4B7@aitinc.local> Duplicolor Detriot Diesel Alpine green is fairly close (DE 1618). It is commonly available as an engine paint so it will withstand the engine operating temperatures. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frederick M Light" To: Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 9:19 AM Subject: [TR] (no subject) > Does anyone know the correct green color for the oil filter canister on a > TR3A? > > TIA > > Fred TS 57038 > _______________________________________________ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Mar 30 08:28:43 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 08:28:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <41E5F1D93FAA4F2E96FEC563BDF7A4B7@aitinc.local> References: <41E5F1D93FAA4F2E96FEC563BDF7A4B7@aitinc.local> Message-ID: <7bb181af0903300828m3e3b298vf374f7190cfba79@mail.gmail.com> This might help... http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/oil%20filter%20canister.JPG Take a buck out of your wallet to color-adjust the pic for your monitor. On Mon, Mar 30, 2009 at 7:29 AM, Terry Geiger wrote: > Duplicolor Detriot Diesel Alpine green is fairly close (DE 1618). That is what I use to paint the spin-ons I use so they don't look too cheesy: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Oil%20Filters.JPG From L1J1S at aol.com Mon Mar 30 08:53:07 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 11:53:07 EDT Subject: [TR] tr subject- paint Message-ID: hello, list, i am working on a special project and i would like to know where i can go to have the color of my car to have high temp paint to paint the engine. i want the engine to match the color of the car. larry schwartz **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220439616x1201372437/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 30 11:24:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 11:24:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cardiff University group studying LBC ownership In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08d101c9b164$b3abda80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Wow, I knew I was a strange cat, but *none* of those apply to me at all. I'd say you're not so strange, since your description applies perfectly to me. Except that I was 18 or 19 and rather than trying to talk me out of it, my Dad actually bought the car (and still has it). And that my first choice was an AC Cobra rather than a Jag Randall From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Mar 30 11:26:47 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 14:26:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) References: Message-ID: <2B6FF38311FF43AFBD7FF14487247523@fred8kwiskhcfu> I've always used 1955 Ford ="turquoise", also on T-Birds- "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Frederick M Light" To: Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 10:19 AM Subject: [TR] (no subject) > Does anyone know the correct green color for the oil filter canister on a > TR3A? > > TIA > > Fred TS 57038 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Mar 30 12:15:22 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 12:15:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Acrylic Lacquer Paint Sources Message-ID: <294118.21665.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I need to paint a replacement fender on a 1974 TR6 that I have. The color is Mallard Blue (or green). I believe that acrylic lacquer sales in California have been banned by the EPA. I see a store on Ebay advertising lacquer in San Diego and am not sure how they get around this. I have been told that some stores would still sell it if you signed a form stating that you weren't using it on a car. Is acrylic lacquer legal in other states like AZ or Nevada? I've heard that it is also illegal to ship it in to California if you buy it out of state. If it is still available in adjacent states I might pick up a gallon next time I visit. I believe CA requires all auto paints to be water based now. It seems unnatural on a TR... Any ideas on finding lacquer? TIA Bill Brewer -Tehachapi, CA From moira.secrest at verizon.net Mon Mar 30 12:50:11 2009 From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 15:50:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean Message-ID: What are some of the suspects for a Stromberg running too lean? One of mine is on my GT6-3, and I don't understand why. All the sources of air that I can think of are accounted for, throttle shafts are rebuilt, and diaphragms are OK. And yeah the car runs like a pig up until about 2k rpm because I can't get the mixture right, the one adjuster is all the way rich. Hmm. -- Martin Secrest 73 GT6-3 72 TR6 Arlington, VA From spitlist at cox.net Mon Mar 30 12:58:41 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 12:58:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Acrylic Lacquer Paint Sources In-Reply-To: <294118.21665.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <294118.21665.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5ADC3C5BC13C40D590509051456830A6@joepentiumnew> Bill, I think that your car was painted originally with Acrylic enamel not laquer. I don't know if that makes a difference in CA or not but Acrylic enamel is still available in many places (including AZ). It was nitrocellulose laquer that has been banned. That was the stuff that was responsible for all those neat candy colors and so forth back in the 50's and 60's. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 12:15 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Acrylic Lacquer Paint Sources I need to paint a replacement fender on a 1974 TR6 that I have. The color is Mallard Blue (or green). I believe that acrylic lacquer sales in California have been banned by the EPA. I see a store on Ebay advertising lacquer in San Diego and am not sure how they get around this. I have been told that some stores would still sell it if you signed a form stating that you weren't using it on a car. Is acrylic lacquer legal in other states like AZ or Nevada? I've heard that it is also illegal to ship it in to California if you buy it out of state. If it is still available in adjacent states I might pick up a gallon next time I visit. I believe CA requires all auto paints to be water based now. It seems unnatural on a TR... Any ideas on finding lacquer? TIA Bill Brewer -Tehachapi, CA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Mar 30 13:34:54 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 16:34:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean Message-ID: <20090330163454.CCU10403@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> M. Secrest asked: > What are some of the suspects for a Stromberg running too > lean?...And yeah the car runs like a pig up until about 2k > rpm because I can'tget the mixture right, the one adjuster > is all the way rich. The fact that "one adjuster is all the way rich" is very suspicious. A first thought is to check all the electrical components of your carbs, since 90% of all carb problems are electrical. Make sure the timing is okay at idle and advances noticeably up through at least 3000rpm. Also if you're setting timing with a vacuum retard in place make sure it is neither stuck nor leaking. Check that the carb dashpot springs aren't broken or deformed. (Can you get to the springs easily on a Z-S? I haven't looked at a Z-S in a long time.) One final note, I've found that the traditional techniques for setting mixture and carb balance don't work like they are supposed to until you get them reasonably close and balanced. If one is opening much more than the other, trying to balance them is a futile exercise. Jim Muller '70 GT6 with SU's From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Mar 30 13:41:51 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 16:41:51 EDT Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean Message-ID: Martin, A couple of questions......is this a stock motor or has it been rebuilt with engine mods like shaved head, faster camshaft, combustion chamber profiling, etc? I think the GT6 Mark 3 has later type ZS carbs with adjustable needles like the later TR6 ZS carbs - are you turning the needle in the correct direction to increase richness (turn clockwise to enrichen; counterclockwise to lean). If you've modified your motor for higher performance, there's a good chance that the stock needles are not capable of providing enough of a fuel charge to satisfy the increased compression, cam timing, etc. The solution to that symptom is richer needles. But, maybe the carb with the problem has a bad/worn needle.....take the damper piston and needle out and make sure the needle looks okay. Double check the diaphragm for proper fit and no hidden cracks. Is the piston moving up freely without binding? Are you using the correct weight oil in the damper chambers? There's a lot of narrative on which oil to use in these dampers...I prefer ATF but whatever you use will be useless if the damper piston doesn't move freely! Good luck, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 3/30/2009 3:50:48 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, moira.secrest at verizon.net writes: And yeah the car runs like a pig up until about 2k rpm because I can't get the mixture right, the one adjuster is all the way rich. **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220439616x1201372437/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Mar 30 13:47:44 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 16:47:44 EDT Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean Message-ID: In a message dated 3/30/2009 2:50:36 PM Central Daylight Time, moira.secrest at verizon.net writes: > What are some of the suspects for a Stromberg running too lean? One of > mine > is on my GT6-3, and I don't understand why. All the sources of air that I > can > think of are accounted for, throttle shafts are rebuilt, and diaphragms are > OK. And yeah the car runs like a pig up until about 2k rpm because I can't > get the mixture right, the one adjuster is all the way rich. Hmm. > Is this a recent occurrence or has it always been like this? In other words did somebody do something to cause this or did it crop up on its own? Possible causes are torn diaghram (you checked that), improper piston/diaghram assembly (causing the piston orientation to be wrong), low float level in the float chamber, vacuum leak (check the brake booster, too), sticking piston (it should drop all the way down under its own weight). Let us know if any of these work. Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Mar 30 14:11:42 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 17:11:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean Message-ID: <20090330171142.CCU18462@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Something someone else replied prompted another thought. If this is a problem that came on suddenly, especially after the car has been parked through the winter, check that both dashpots are moving freely, not stuck. I once found the GT6 suddenly not running well at all, and the problem turned out to be that one of the dashpots had become stuck. I suppose it might have been due to dried gas but I never figured it out for sure. Jim Muller From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 30 15:20:10 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 15:20:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <093c01c9b185$b0e78760$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What are some of the suspects for a Stromberg running too lean Do you have power brakes? If so, I would be wondering about the brake booster. Or anything else that runs from manifold vacuum. A 73 would probably also have vacuum retard, which might be leaking. Exhaust leaks can sometimes make the mixture go lean. And I'd run the valves once, just in case. -- Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Mar 30 15:25:27 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 22:25:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Hylomar In-Reply-To: <763265319.1814311238451786202.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3563230.1815561238451927136.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Have cruised the local options, and Hylomar is on no one's shelf.B I could find "Super '300' Form-a-Gasket" sealant by Permatex. Opened it, looks a bit the same.B Is Hylomar getting hard to find or is that a local issue.B Is Super 300 anything close? Bit of a sticky wicket about how to make the wicket sticky, eh? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Mar 30 15:47:41 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 15:47:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hylomar In-Reply-To: <3563230.1815561238451927136.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <763265319.1814311238451786202.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <3563230.1815561238451927136.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <094101c9b189$88e73720$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Is Hylomar getting hard to find or is that a local issue. Little of both, maybe. Permatex was distributing it in the US, so every corner store that carried Permatex products had it for awhile. But Permatex quit doing that, and it appears that most stores dropped it. Even K-mart had it for awhile, now I only see it at Harbor Freight. > B Is Super 300 > anything close? I've never tried Super 300, but from the MSDS I would say no. It looks to be closer to Permatex #3 Aviation Form-A-Gasket, which in spite of the "non-hardening" label, in fact sets up like rock over time. I have literally used a hammer & chisel to remove it. I still use #3 in some places, but not where I expect easy removal in the future. Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Mar 30 16:28:39 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 19:28:39 EDT Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean Message-ID: In a message dated 3/30/2009 3:50:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, moira.secrest at verizon.net writes: And yeah the car runs like a pig up until about 2k rpm because I can't get the mixture right, the one adjuster is all the way rich. Hmm. Most carburetor problems are electrical. Darrell **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From jhassall at blacksburg.net Mon Mar 30 19:24:38 2009 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 21:24:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hylomar In-Reply-To: <3563230.1815561238451927136.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westches ter.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <763265319.1814311238451786202.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <3563230.1815561238451927136.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <0KHC002BQJTRC5FM@vms173007.mailsrvcs.net> At 05:25 PM 3/30/2009, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >Have cruised the local options, and Hylomar is on no one's shelf.B I could >find "Super '300' Form-a-Gasket" sealant by Permatex. > >[...snip...] > >Is Hylomar getting hard to find or is that a local issue.B Is Super 300 >anything close? Since the question was asked..... I have about 6 tubes of Hylomar HPF (the real stuff) if anyone's interested. jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 96% finished, 90% to go From L1J1S at aol.com Mon Mar 30 18:28:33 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 21:28:33 EDT Subject: [TR] who running judson supercharger Message-ID: list, i am trying to gather a list of those who are running a judson supercharger in their car(s). i, for one am running a judson in my 1960 tr3-a. all leads would be helpful also. larry schwartz **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220439616x1201372437/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From tom628 at verizon.net Mon Mar 30 19:25:03 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 22:25:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean References: Message-ID: Martin: 1. Do the plugs served by the "all the way rich" carb look any different than those associated with the other carb? 2. Do the symptoms get any worse if you crank the adjustment back in the lean direction? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "M. Secrest" To: Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 3:50 PM Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean > What are some of the suspects for a Stromberg running too lean? One of > mine > is on my GT6-3, and I don't understand why. All the sources of air that I > can > think of are accounted for, throttle shafts are rebuilt, and diaphragms > are > OK. And yeah the car runs like a pig up until about 2k rpm because I > can't > get the mixture right, the one adjuster is all the way rich. Hmm. > > -- > Martin Secrest > 73 GT6-3 > 72 TR6 > Arlington, VA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jmitch at snet.net Mon Mar 30 19:30:57 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 22:30:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49D18061.1060009@snet.net> Check to make sure the temperature compensator is seating completely when cold, or try blocking it completely with a piece of cardboard and see if there's any difference. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag M. Secrest wrote: > What are some of the suspects for a Stromberg running too lean? One of mine > is on my GT6-3, and I don't understand why. All the sources of air that I can > think of are accounted for, throttle shafts are rebuilt, and diaphragms are > OK. And yeah the car runs like a pig up until about 2k rpm because I can't > get the mixture right, the one adjuster is all the way rich. Hmm. > > -- > Martin Secrest > 73 GT6-3 > 72 TR6 > Arlington, VA From emanteno at gmail.com Tue Mar 31 04:24:16 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 06:24:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <354a1780903310424v7bf71a20jebf4df606d5d6d3d@mail.gmail.com> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "M. Secrest" > > To: > Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 3:50 PM > Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean > > > What are some of the suspects for a Stromberg running too lean? One of >> mine >> is on my GT6-3, and I don't understand why. All the sources of air that I >> can >> think of are accounted for, throttle shafts are rebuilt, and diaphragms >> are >> OK. And yeah the car runs like a pig up until about 2k rpm because I >> can't >> get the mixture right, the one adjuster is all the way rich. Hmm. >> > Martin, Have you checked the float levels? If you have and mentioned it, I apologize but I didn't see the floats mentioned. I was taught in my club's carb clinics that the float level is the coarse mixture adjustment and the needle is the fine mixture adjustment on the Strombergs. If the float level is wrong, perhaps the mixture is now too lean and out of the range where the needle adjustment can compensate? Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From peterara at msn.com Tue Mar 31 04:56:58 2009 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 04:56:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] hylomar Message-ID: Moss carries real Hylomar. It is packaged by an intermediary company, but they assure me that it is the real original medium blue Hylomar. 221-556, $10.95 for a 1.5 ounce tube. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Mar 31 05:14:55 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 08:14:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Hylomar Message-ID: In a message dated 3/30/2009 5:25:39 PM Central Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: > Is Hylomar getting hard to find or is that a local issue. I stopped by my local parts supplier and was told that Hylomar was sold to a British company and hence the distribution network went away. But Moss carries it (Thanks Peter) so toss in a tube on your next Moss order. Dave From Mark.Evans at Anheuser-Busch.com Tue Mar 31 05:23:41 2009 From: Mark.Evans at Anheuser-Busch.com (Evans, Mark CVB Info Systems) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 08:23:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stub Axle TR2-6 Message-ID: Does anyone have any suggested home garage methods for removing a stub axle from the vertical link on the TR2-6? This is a TR4A. I have new stub axles but would prefer not to bludgeon the old ones beyond use with a BFH. Mark A. Evans 1966 TR4A IRS CTC63970 LO Acworth, Georgia - USA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------- Anheuser-Busch InBev Email Disclaimer www.ab-inbev.com From DLylis at aol.com Tue Mar 31 06:00:43 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 09:00:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Z-S Too Lean Message-ID: In a message dated 3/30/2009 10:54:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jmitch at snet.net writes: Check to make sure the temperature compensator is seating completely when cold, or try blocking it completely with a piece of cardboard and see if there's any difference. Don't forget the bypass, as well. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From lee at automate-it.com Tue Mar 31 07:26:35 2009 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 09:26:35 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Hylomar In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2306.192.246.38.159.1238509595.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> >> Is Hylomar getting hard to find or is that a local issue. Harbor Freight carries "Hylomar's Universal Blue" in a 35ml (~1 oz) tube for $3.99. The photo (see url below) shows a tube with the Hylomar brand name on it. I'm not that familiar with the various Hylomar products - is this the "good stuff"? http://tinyurl.com/d8grka I actually prefer these smaller tubes, 'cause I never seem to use much of the large ones before they get lost or the tubes crack, dry out, etc. - Lee From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Mar 31 07:42:53 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 09:42:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stub Axle TR2-6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090331154232.81DF1187645@autox.team.net> Here's the instructions that Jack wrote about this for the HD spindle kit: "Remove the old spindle. This is usually (but not always) pretty easy and can be done on the car. Remove the bolts that hold the upper ball joint in place, swing the upright down and onto a wood block, for example, screw the inner nut to the end of the threads, and hit the end of the stub axle HARD. The old stub axle usually falls out." You screw the nut to the end of the threads to protect the end of the axle from mushrooming. I pretty much followed this method, but I'm not sure how good the threads are on the ones that came out of my car - but I didn't intend to re-use them anyway. - Tony At 07:23 AM 3/31/2009, Evans, Mark CVB Info Systems wrote: >Does anyone have any suggested home garage methods for removing a stub axle >from >the vertical link on the TR2-6? This is a TR4A. I have new stub axles but >would >prefer not to bludgeon the old ones beyond use with a BFH. > >Mark A. Evans > >1966 TR4A IRS CTC63970 LO >Acworth, Georgia - USA > > > >----------------------------------------------------------------------------- >----------------------------------------------------------------------------- >----------------------------------------------------------------------------- >------------------------------------------------- >Anheuser-Busch InBev Email Disclaimer www.ab-inbev.com >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Mar 31 08:26:53 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 08:26:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stub Axle TR2-6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090331152653.MHMI28081.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does anyone have any suggested home garage methods for > removing a stub axle from the vertical link on the TR2-6? > This is a TR4A. I have new stub axles but would prefer not to > bludgeon the old ones beyond use with a BFH. I did it, once, by stacking up pieces of pipe & washers, and using a Grade 8 nut on the end as a puller. Tightened it until I thought it likely to strip the threads, then rapped smartly on the other end with a BFH (and a nut to protect the threads). It worked, but I would not particularly recommend it. Better IMO to strip the VL and take it to someone with a proper press. I have my own now, but in years past I have found that most full line auto parts stores have one in the back and will either do the job for not much money, or in some cases let you do it yourself for goodwill. If your FLAPS doesn't have one, try an automotive machine shop. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Mar 31 10:58:02 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 18:58:02 +0100 Subject: [TR] Hylomar References: <2306.192.246.38.159.1238509595.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <2C52490612634FA38F20B1BD9FE23DA3@Bevan> Ye gods, what a hullaballoo about Hylomar. Anyone would think it was the loss of the Holy Grail! Guys, aren't any of you aware that you have some listers resident in the UK, where Hylomar is freely available? So, I'll pose the question: I'm willing to obtain Hylomar for everyone - *providing* someone offers to act as an onward shipper. To do this, I'm willing to obtain prices for Hylomar in its various sizes in the UK, place an order for everyone's needs and then ship it over to whoever is willing to post on the packets. It's up to you Jonmac From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Mar 31 11:12:25 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 19:12:25 +0100 Subject: [TR] Hylomar revisited Message-ID: Further to my last post, I omitted to mention that I do not see my offer as an opportunity to make any financial gain. I wouldn't want anyone to think they might find themselves getting shafted. Jonmac From trglory at verizon.net Tue Mar 31 11:49:08 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Jos Laurito) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 14:49:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Heater control valve Message-ID: <0344AA0487B64B3E9D4F2DA21233EA77@newbox> Just curious......will a TR6 heater control valve fit the TR3a? Joe From trglory at verizon.net Tue Mar 31 12:26:13 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 15:26:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Heater control valve Message-ID: <6D1E387DD6C1468AAFA3D3A9A6DCB023@newbox> Just curious......will a TR6 heater control valve fit the TR3a? Joe From wensley_tr at comcast.net Tue Mar 31 12:55:09 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 15:55:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Heater control valve In-Reply-To: <0344AA0487B64B3E9D4F2DA21233EA77@newbox> References: <0344AA0487B64B3E9D4F2DA21233EA77@newbox> Message-ID: <003301c9b23a$98b8e070$ca2aa150$@net> Joe Save some money go down to your local parts store get a heater control valve that fits a 1979 VW Rabbit Diesel. It's made out ABS plastic and stainless steel. Also it looks almost the same and it works better. Craig If you don't buy it just look and see what I mean -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jos Laurito Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2009 2:49 PM To: Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Heater control valve Just curious......will a TR6 heater control valve fit the TR3a? Joe This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Mar 31 16:00:55 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 23:00:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Hylomar revisited In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1768867668.2340341238540455456.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Further to my last post, I omitted to mention that I do not see my offer as an opportunity to make >any financial gain. I wouldn't want anyone to think they might find themselves getting shafted. >Jonmac Wait, you mean to say you can use Hylomar on anything EXCEPT a shaft?B ...What's wrong with shaft gaskets?B Whoops.B Maybe a shaft doesn't come with a gasket.B Come to think of it, I can't remember a shaft I've ever been the happy beneficiary of that came with the consideration of a comfortable seal.B Mayhaps I have been the recipient of incommodious shafts in the past?B Or perhaps as Freud once did not say,B "Sometimes a shaft is just a shaft." In seriousness, I have to cobble together my homemade gas tank fuel sender flange tomorrow.B Am going to try some VersaChem Prime Seal Type 3 Aviation gasket sealant I found at VIP tonight.B If I get a leak or a smell, I'll pull it all apart and start over with some Hylomar from one of the sources listed in replies.B Frankly, now I'm curious. As ever, thank you all, Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Mar 31 16:27:06 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 19:27:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 at Tradition Golf Message-ID: <0802BD5C2CFD42519467082A3DF8487B@BOBSNEWPC> Anybody on the Mail List have their red TR6 at the Tradition Gold Course in Wallingford CT today? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From racegt6 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 31 20:17:28 2009 From: racegt6 at yahoo.com (Charlie Schlismann) Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2009 20:17:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Hylomar Message-ID: <365123.79697.qm@web30803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> -- On Mon, 3/30/09, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >> Have cruised the local options, and > Hylomar is on no one's shelf.B Pegasus carries a Hylomar: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=2867 Is this what you're looking for? Too, I've used the Wellseal w/ok results. Pegasus carries that as well. Not the cheapest source, but one day delivery to me in suburban Chicago. Good luck, Charlie