From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Jun 1 02:05:28 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 09:05:28 +0100 Subject: [TR] TTA Stag status as of May 31 References: Message-ID: <66D70FDB1ABA44BFBBEA3325E7D7CF4D@John> Tim Buja wrote: > I've updated the TTA website with news and pictures about our build progress > and "uncle jack"'s public debut on Sunday. > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ > Thanks to everyone who contributed to this gallant and successful effort to > recover from the catastrophic failure of only one week ago. We could not > have done this without your help. In a world that is overloaded with cliche, the events of the last week - starting last Sunday - and the stresses since then, all go to prove what really can be achieved with "absolute teamwork." I am truly and utterly amazed that in less than seven days, the replacements for all the damaged parts were located, shipped to where they were needed and then brought together into a whole. This achievement is, by any standards, utterly staggering and a tribute to everyone who played their part to overcome the misfortune. I call you guys the "Works Team" because unlike a works team, you didn't have a truck full of parts on your doorstep. However, you all pulled together against the most daunting odds and carried out work that a Works Team would be proud to be associated with. I salute you all with admiration, gratitude and complete amazement at what you achieved in the time you had at your disposal. Thank you, SO much. "uncle jack" looks superb and I do so hope that members of the Triumph racing fraternity in the US and Canada take time out to see what was achieved by all of you. I'm confident as well that Jack Drews would have approved to see his name associated with your handiwork. There is a whole lot more to say about this overall restoration - but it'll have to wait until I get the opportunity of saying it face to face with a raft of other people. You guys achieved the impossible and though it did take a few days longer, you performed a miracle too. Well done! John Macartney From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jun 1 05:36:34 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 07:36:34 EDT Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: test David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377040x1201454360/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Mon Jun 1 07:54:43 2009 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 06:54:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Useful info...penetrating oils and their effectiveness Message-ID: <852063.16156.qm@web80804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Triumphant ones, I received this from a friend of mine and thought I'd pass it along to the list. Someone last week was talking about trying to get bolts loose. Something we all have a problem with. Doug ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------- The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid! Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce None ................. 516 pounds . WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75 ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10 The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)." From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jun 1 08:13:18 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 14:13:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Thank Victoria British for donation to the Charity Tour In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <144596524.15830631243865598560.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> If any of you are calling Vicky Brit for parts, please mention to them how much the British-car community appreciates the donation made by Susan Berkowicz, the Marketing Director of Victoria British. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Ann and Tim Buja" wrote: > From: "Ann and Tim Buja" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 11:07:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] TTA Stag status as of May 31 > > I've updated the TTA website with news and pictures about our build > progress > and "uncle jack"'s public debut on Sunday. > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ > > Thanks to everyone who contributed to this gallant and successful > effort to > recover from the catastrophic failure of only one week ago. We could > not > have done this without your help. > > Tim Buja - Rockford, IL From jimbpps at cox.net Mon Jun 1 08:24:21 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 07:24:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thank Victoria British for donation to the Charity Tour In-Reply-To: <144596524.15830631243865598560.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <144596524.15830631243865598560.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: AMEN to that!! Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 7:13 AM To: british-cars at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Thank Victoria British for donation to the Charity Tour If any of you are calling Vicky Brit for parts, please mention to them how much the British-car community appreciates the donation made by Susan Berkowicz, the Marketing Director of Victoria British. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Ann and Tim Buja" wrote: > From: "Ann and Tim Buja" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 11:07:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] TTA Stag status as of May 31 > > I've updated the TTA website with news and pictures about our build > progress and "uncle jack"'s public debut on Sunday. > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ > > Thanks to everyone who contributed to this gallant and successful > effort to recover from the catastrophic failure of only one week ago. > We could not have done this without your help. > > Tim Buja - Rockford, IL Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Jun 1 08:55:54 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 15:55:54 +0100 Subject: [TR] Thank Victoria British for donation to the Charity Tour References: <144596524.15830631243865598560.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <3D52413303CF4CBB90D9A6F53C53D3CE@John> I'll drink to that! And how ! Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 3:13 PM Subject: [TR] Thank Victoria British for donation to the Charity Tour > If any of you are calling Vicky Brit for parts, please mention to them how much the British-car > community appreciates the donation made by Susan Berkowicz, the Marketing Director of Victoria > British. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > > ----- "Ann and Tim Buja" wrote: > >> From: "Ann and Tim Buja" >> To: triumphs at autox.team.net >> Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 11:07:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central >> Subject: [TR] TTA Stag status as of May 31 >> >> I've updated the TTA website with news and pictures about our build >> progress >> and "uncle jack"'s public debut on Sunday. >> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ >> >> Thanks to everyone who contributed to this gallant and successful >> effort to >> recover from the catastrophic failure of only one week ago. We could >> not >> have done this without your help. >> >> Tim Buja - Rockford, IL > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 1 10:45:49 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 12:45:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] w/s corner brackets Message-ID: Hello list, hopefully I'm over my computer problems... I'm taking inventory of my windshield parts which are all uninstalled since the original w/s is cracked on my TR3a. The cracked glass has yet to be taken out of the old w/s frame. Are the 2 corner brackets (Moss shows them as #802-675) within the w/s frame? I doubt they need replacing. I don't see them in my parts collection. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3a Corrosion Acres +2 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 1 11:10:34 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 10:10:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] w/s corner brackets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2C0CC2ECBF68459E9AA8EA1BF18A5555@jdnet.deere.com> > Are the 2 corner brackets (Moss shows them as > #802-675) within the w/s frame? Yup, they hide inside the frame; you won't see them until you start to take it apart. The screw heads can be seen through the slots in the bottom and sides of the frame; there are clearance holes so the screws can be removed. Randall From nwolf at u.washington.edu Mon Jun 1 11:14:17 2009 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 10:14:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Anyone available to check out a car in SW Ohio? Message-ID: Listers, I find myself interested in a TR4 for sale in southwestern Ohio (in Piqua, which is north of Dayton). Is there anyone in the area who would be willing to check it out for me? I am happy to compensate you for the service, or make a donation to the list, or both. Thanks! -Nick Seattle, WA '62-ish TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 1 13:10:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 12:10:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Useful info...penetrating oils and their effectiveness In-Reply-To: <852063.16156.qm@web80804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <852063.16156.qm@web80804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: That is interesting info Doug (reminds me I need to resubscribe to MW). However I have to say that it does not match my own real world experience. In particular, I find that PB Blaster works far better than Liquid Wrench; very similar to Kano Kroil. And ATF/acetone works about the same as WD-40, for me (which is to say you might as well spit on it). It does make pretty smoke when you set it on fire though; after you've given up on more plebian methods and broken out the flaming wrench -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Mitchell > Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 6:55 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Useful info...penetrating oils and their effectiveness > > Triumphant ones, > > I received this from a friend of mine and thought I'd pass > it along to the list. > Someone last week was talking about trying to get bolts > loose. Something > we all have a problem with. > > Doug > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > --- > --------------------------------------- > > The April/May 2007 edition of > Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating > oils where they measured the > force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy > the issue if you want to see > how they did the test. The results reported were > interesting. The lower the > number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results > for simple acetone and > tranny fluid! > > Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce > None > ................. 516 pounds . > WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 > PB > Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 > Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 > Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75 > ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10 > The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)." > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr3driver at ca.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 1 13:22:05 2009 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 12:22:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Government Motors Message-ID: <829111.94707.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Well, GM just became our version of British Leyland today and we all know what a quality manufacturer BL was. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 1 13:31:35 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 15:31:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Windshield Job References: <2C0CC2ECBF68459E9AA8EA1BF18A5555@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1713B8A584F04775B42E71A2CEF02F3C@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Thanks Randall, to everyone, Is there anything else that I should know (or order) before I take my old w/s to a classic car W/S shop (I think I want this done professionally, isn't this a good idea?). Also, any special instructions that I should give to the Professional? Although it's not original, I'm replacing the cracked glass with a new tinted version that's only 1/4" thick- Is this the thickness of the original? It's FYG Brand, made in China but was ordered from www.prosourceglassintl.com. Thanks, Paul 60 TR3a --- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 1:10 PM Subject: Re: [TR] w/s corner brackets >> Are the 2 corner brackets (Moss shows them as >> #802-675) within the w/s frame? > > Yup, they hide inside the frame; you won't see them until you start to > take > it apart. The screw heads can be seen through the slots in the bottom and > sides of the frame; there are clearance holes so the screws can be > removed. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From trglory at verizon.net Mon Jun 1 14:19:37 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 16:19:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Government Motors In-Reply-To: <829111.94707.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6079AC5416C74F97870B61BB4B8A1FC3@newbox> I wonder how the workers at Ford are going to take it when they finally figure out that they are being represented at the bargaining table by the owners of GM & Chrysler. Grab your ankles, boys!!!! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kurt Johnson Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 3:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Government Motors Well, GM just became our version of British Leyland today and we all know what a quality manufacturer BL was. _______________________________________________ [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Jun 1 15:18:41 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 22:18:41 +0100 Subject: [TR] The Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive Stag is effectively READY!!! Message-ID: <579A2DE3824E4A8383E49EBE280708CF@John> There's an old saying, "the impossible we can do now - miracles take a little longer. If you haven't been following developments over the last week or so - or didn't hear what happened, it may come as a surprise to know that a great deal has taken place on both sides of the 'big pond' - but especially in the States. And the States side of things *definitely* wasn't planned! A miracle has truly been worked by the ISOA team under Joe Pawlak following a disastrous gearbox failure on 24th May. Thanks in no small measure to many enthusiasts across the North American continent - and especially to those in the corridors of power at Victoria British who responded to an urgent need in incredible style. My very sincere and heartfelt thanks to everyone who truly made everything a veritable miracle. This is a manifestation of true teamwork, the like of which I have never previously seen or known. The website is updated with pix of the Unveiling Ceremony in Hampshire, Illinois on Sunday afternoon. Go have a look and see what ISOA has managed to achieve in 66 weekends of unmitigating slog - and probably a good many weekday nights as well. You guys are AMAZING! Also, the website now has a new page for a *different* type of Memorabilia and Regalia. Have a look at that too! John Macartney Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jun 1 16:43:13 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 18:43:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] question on top bit In-Reply-To: <994170679.2209141243830312759.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <994170679.2209141243830312759.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <200906011843.13725.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 01 June 2009 12:25:12 am spook01 at comcast.net wrote: > hi, > > one of the metal hooks on the top of the windshield frame (the one that > hooks to the top) is missing.B B how can i replace it? > > thanks in advance, guys. > > rayB Ray, I dont think this answer will help but if you are talking about a TR4, I fabricated a new hook and brazed it on with my torch. Now this car was in a full body off frame restoration at the time and the windshield was off the car and glass/rubber removed. I have no idea of how to fix a driver. Bob From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Jun 1 18:27:01 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 17:27:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] w/s corner brackets In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A2471D5.2090602@comcast.net> Paul, Here is my recent experience with the corner brackets: I only got two or three of the corner bracket screws out successfully even after days of soaking with PBblaster and the use of an impact driver. The remaining screws had to be drilled out. The two corner brackets were a rusty mess but cleaned up fairly well in the bead blaster. I managed to clean the screw remains out of the holes with a tap and gave them a good coating of cold galvanizing compound to see if I could slow down the future formation of rust. >From one of the previous emails, it likes like I should have used ATF=Acetone mix rather then PBblaster. I haven't tried re-installing the glass yet. But I have read some threads covering struggles with the glazing strip. It should be interesting. Hope this helps. Mike dorpaul wrote: > Hello list, hopefully I'm over my computer problems... > > I'm taking inventory of my windshield parts which are all uninstalled since > the original w/s is cracked on my TR3a. The cracked glass has yet to be taken > out of the old w/s frame. Are the 2 corner brackets (Moss shows them as > #802-675) within the w/s frame? I doubt they need replacing. I don't see > them in my parts collection. From nwolf at u.washington.edu Mon Jun 1 17:47:58 2009 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 16:47:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Anyone available to check out a car in SW Ohio? Message-ID: Hi everybody Thanks for the responses! I have someone (Ted Schumacher) lined up to look at the car. Cheers. -Nick ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 10:14:17 -0700 (PDT) From: nwolf at u.washington.edu Subject: Anyone available to check out a car in SW Ohio? Listers, I find myself interested in a TR4 for sale in southwestern Ohio (in Piqua, which is north of Dayton). Is there anyone in the area who would be willing to check it out for me? I am happy to compensate you for the service, or make a donation to the list, or both. Thanks! -Nick Seattle, WA '62-ish TR4 From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 1 18:49:15 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 00:49:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] question on top bit In-Reply-To: <458132387.16345141243903666173.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1245448623.16345751243903755824.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >One possibility _might_ be TRF P/N 553837, which is a Tenax peg that goes >all the way through and has a head on the other side. B But you'd have to >drill some holes mighty carefully to avoid cracking the glass, and I still >don't know if it can be installed with the glass in place. I did do this myself on the top left peg on my 3A.B Have a countersunk screw receptacle on the cockpit side, so it matches quite naturally with the chrome frame.B Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Jun 1 19:04:11 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 18:04:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] question on top bit In-Reply-To: <200906011843.13725.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <994170679.2209141243830312759.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <200906011843.13725.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906011804s7bc561d9ue1baeeb16cf09f4@mail.gmail.com> On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 3:43 PM, Bob wrote: ...if you are talking about a TR4, I fabricated a new hook and brazed it on... This was what I thought of when the question was asked (can't recall what car Larry has). FWIW -- I never use that hook, but then I live in a rather dry place. I mention that in case he is wanting it in place just for appearances sake as it might give him some other options for attaching it. Geo From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Jun 1 19:17:19 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 21:17:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wedge question Message-ID: Getting started on replacing the rear axle bearings on Evelyn's TR8. From what I can decipher in the manual it looks like I just need to remove the four nuts holding the retaining plated on to the backing plates and pull the axles. They aren't jumping out in my hand. Is that all there is to it or do I need to get into the diff? Not used to working on these new fangled solid axle Triumphs:) Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009 From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jun 1 19:44:31 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 21:44:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Useful info...penetrating oils and their effectiveness In-Reply-To: <852063.16156.qm@web80804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A244BBF.13191.5C15A29@localhost> On 1 Jun 2009 at 6:54, Doug Mitchell wrote: > The April/May 2007 edition of > Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating > oils where they measured the > force required to loosen rusty test devices... One must wonder how varied the "rusty test devices" would have been with no oil. Too bad they didn't measure, say, 20 such thingys with none. It might have shown just as much variation. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Jun 1 19:47:11 2009 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 18:47:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] question on top bit References: <20090601045106812.GNVL27612@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: I had the same problem, actually, the hole had gotten enlarged a bit. I used threaded insert (I got a kit from JCWhitney called a "nutter" but they are available elsewhere. It works a lot like a pop rivet.) It has been holding fine for many years. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'triumphs'" Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 9:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] question on top bit >> one of the metal hooks on the top of the windshield frame >> (the one that hooks to the top) is missing.B B how can i replace it? > > Normally, they just screw in. However, if the threads are damaged, I'm > not > sure what options are available without having to disassemble the frame. > > One possibility _might_ be TRF P/N 553837, which is a Tenax peg that goes > all the way through and has a head on the other side. But you'd have to > drill some holes mighty carefully to avoid cracking the glass, and I still > don't know if it can be installed with the glass in place. > > If you find a solution, please share it. I have one hole with stripped > threads on my project TR3. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Jun 1 22:16:09 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Mon, 1 Jun 2009 23:16:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Government Motors References: <6079AC5416C74F97870B61BB4B8A1FC3@newbox> Message-ID: don't worry guys, everythings under control because their defacto ceo has a plan that sounds a bit like Leyland's. build what folks don't want in the least efficient way possible with massive government subsidies. problem solved!! best, Ray "Everyone wants to live at the expense of the state. They forget that the state lives at the expense of everyone." --French economist, statesman and author Frederic Bastiat (1801-1850) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Laurito" To: Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 3:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Government Motors >I wonder how the workers at Ford are going to take it when they finally > figure out that they are being represented at the bargaining table by the > owners of GM & Chrysler. Grab your ankles, boys!!!! > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kurt Johnson > Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 3:22 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Government Motors > > Well, GM just became our version of British Leyland today and we all know > what a quality manufacturer BL was. > _______________________________________________ > > > [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried > to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send > plain text.] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jun 1 23:13:54 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 05:13:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] The Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive Stag is effectively READY!!! In-Reply-To: <579A2DE3824E4A8383E49EBE280708CF@John> References: <579A2DE3824E4A8383E49EBE280708CF@John> Message-ID: Looking at the photos of the Stag I see a gauge under the dash near the top of the brake pedal. What is it for? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail.. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_QuickAdd1_052009 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Jun 2 01:33:57 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 08:33:57 +0100 Subject: [TR] The Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive Stag is effectively READY!!! References: <579A2DE3824E4A8383E49EBE280708CF@John> Message-ID: I'm assuming its the oil pressure gauge I requested of Joe Pawlak and the team. He had one unused and it saved buying a combi instrument - as found on all the Coventry prepared competition cars. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 6:13 AM Subject: Re: [TR] The Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive Stag is effectively READY!!! > Looking at the photos of the Stag I see a gauge under the dash near the top > of the brake pedal. What is it for? > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail.. > http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria > l_QuickAdd1_052009 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Jun 2 03:42:48 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 05:42:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Useful info...penetrating oils and their effectiveness References: <852063.16156.qm@web80804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001801c9e366$7db60520$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> The atf and acetone mixture seperates quickly. To make it work, you've got to constantly shake the applicator bottle. Its effectiveness was not at all remarkable in my experience. I've wondered which Liquid Wrench was used, as there are several formulations. I've been very pleased with the "with Teflon" version. It's every bit as good as Kano's Silikroil. It's top claim to fame, imo, is the ability to keep a broken free nut or bolt spinning. Many others, like PB Blaster, will do nothing once the fitting is broken free, letting it rejam with the rust in the threads. Silikroil, Liquid Wrench with Teflon, and a few others do a good job of keeping the parts moving freely once they are broken free. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Mitchell" To: Sent: Monday, June 01, 2009 9:54 AM Subject: [TR] Useful info...penetrating oils and their effectiveness > Triumphant ones, > > I received this from a friend of mine and thought I'd pass > it along to the list. > Someone last week was talking about trying to get bolts > loose. Something > we all have a problem with. > > Doug > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > --------------------------------------- > > The April/May 2007 edition of > Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating > oils where they measured the > force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy > the issue if you want to see > how they did the test. The results reported were > interesting. The lower the > number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results > for simple acetone and > tranny fluid! > > Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce > None > ................. 516 pounds . > WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25 > PB > Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35 > Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21 > Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75 > ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10 > The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)." > _______________________________________________ From elangtr4 at aol.com Tue Jun 2 05:52:37 2009 From: elangtr4 at aol.com (elangtr4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 07:52:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 tires Message-ID: <8CBB18FC20FA738-136C-1D61@WEBMAIL-DF06.sysops.aol.com> Listers, I'm in the market for new tires for my TR6. Right now I'm running BFGoodrich Touring TA in size 205/70-15 and have been satisfied with them, but I'm pretty sure these are NLA. I'm not an autocrosser, but I have used my car for long trips. Any suggestions? Eric L. 71 TR6? From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jun 2 06:01:54 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 07:01:54 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 tires Message-ID: <734337266.93601.1243944115027.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> From k8stoy at optonline.net Tue Jun 2 06:26:36 2009 From: k8stoy at optonline.net (k8stoy at optonline.net) Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 12:26:36 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] TR6 tires In-Reply-To: <8CBB18FC20FA738-136C-1D61@WEBMAIL-DF06.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CBB18FC20FA738-136C-1D61@WEBMAIL-DF06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Hey Eric, I have the Bridgestone Turanzas on my TR6, for a few years now. I've done several long trips and I've autocrossed it a few times too, plus alot of local very spirited driving, and I'm really happy with them. Kind Regards, Kate Hurney LI NY 76 TR6 76 Spitfire ----- Original Message ----- From: elangtr4 at aol.com Date: Tuesday, June 2, 2009 7:58 am Subject: [TR] TR6 tires To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Listers, > I'm in the market for new tires for my TR6. Right now I'm > running BFGoodrich Touring TA in size 205/70-15 and have been > satisfied with them, but I'm pretty sure these are NLA. I'm not > an autocrosser, but I have used my car for long trips. Any > suggestions?Eric L. > 71 TR6? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as k8stoy at optonline.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Tue Jun 2 07:38:00 2009 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 09:38:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1980 Spit: vacuum retard Message-ID: Has anyone ever been able to repair a vacuum advance or retard unit. They seem to be just about impossible to find anywhere, but I wonder if a repair is possible. It looks like it might be hard to actually get to the diaphram without tearing things up, but since it doesn't work anyway . . . Tim Gaines 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 Received: from [65.12.112.84] (account mtgaines at mail.presby.edu) by mail.presby.edu (CommuniGate Pro WEBUSER 5.2.7) with HTTP id 47914248 for triumphs at autox.team.ne; Mon, 01 Jun 2009 23:26:07 -0400 From: "Tim Gaines" Subject: 1980 Spit: vacuum retard To: triumphs at autox.team.ne X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro WebUser v5.2.7 Date: Mon, 01 Jun 2009 23:26:07 -0400 Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8;format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Has anyone ever been able to repair a vacuum advance or retard unit. They seem to be just about impossible to find anywhere, but I wonder if a repair is possible. It looks like it might be hard to actually get to the diaphram without tearing things up, but since it doesn't work anyway . . . Tim Gaines 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 From rjones at wfeca.net Tue Jun 2 08:10:10 2009 From: rjones at wfeca.net (Bob Jones) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 09:10:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wiring Message-ID: Do any of you have any experience with wiring harnesses from British Wiring in Penn.? Any harness recommendations? Thanks Bob From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Jun 2 08:20:05 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 10:20:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1980 Spit: vacuum retard References: Message-ID: <000601c9e38d$3aaeadf0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> I've done it. Not sure how worthwhile it was, but I did it. The diaphram itself can be patched or replaced. I like that super goo that's in the yellow tube. Can't recall the name off hand, but you can get it at parts stores and Walmart. It bonds to rubber and is gasoline impervious. Sealing the shaft is harder. I've done it with foil wraps, but that doesn't last long. O-rings work also, but they didn't last long either. One could fairly easily machine a sleeve, or get one from a hobby store. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Gaines" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 9:38 AM Subject: [TR] 1980 Spit: vacuum retard > Has anyone ever been able to repair a vacuum advance or > retard unit. They seem to be just about impossible to find > anywhere, but I wonder if a repair is possible. It looks > like it might be hard to actually get to the diaphram > without tearing things up, but since it doesn't work > anyway . . . From hdrider570 at att.net Tue Jun 2 08:25:29 2009 From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 07:25:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Wedge question Message-ID: <981357.35076.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I just did the bearings on one of my TR7's. The axle needs to be tapped out. I used a slide hammer with a lug adapter but the repair manual talks about remounting the brake drum backwards and hitting it with a rubber mallet. The bearings will need a press as the retaining rings need 3 tons of force to seat correctly. They recommend drilling the old retainers across in a line to weaken them and then splitting with a cold chisel. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 2 08:30:55 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 08:30:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <956CDA18297643B0BFC992E72B9BC832@bboffice> I think they are the folks I contacted for my TR3, if they carry harnesses from Auto Sparks in Nottingham then they are. Just finished installation last week, a good looking harness that installed with a very minimum of effort. Many thanks to Frank, FGFO1 at aol.com, for supplying a large format diagram that made life much easier during the process. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Jones Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 8:10 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wiring Do any of you have any experience with wiring harnesses from British Wiring in Penn.? Any harness recommendations? Thanks Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Jun 2 08:40:11 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 07:40:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <608075.65971.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just a question on purchased body panels. During welding in my new floors (tr-3) I've been grinding off portions to make solid welds. During grinding I've noticed a reddish color below the black paint before I get down to shiny steel. It/s slight and barely visible but there. I'm assuming this might be a protective layer of a rust prohibitive they put on the steel before painting. hopefully its not rust. anyone else had this experience? or information? gary n From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 2 10:25:03 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 09:25:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] interior Message-ID: <724440.12915.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> has anyone bought interior panels from vb for a tr6 the ones that they say are made in england From trglory at verizon.net Tue Jun 2 10:46:28 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 02 Jun 2009 12:46:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wiring In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Bob; I put one of their harnesses in my TR3 resto and it was perfect in every way. But I wanted to upgrade the car during the rebuild, so I installed an alternator kit which I also bought from them. The nice thing is that they have a full catalog of connectors, fasteners, British color coded wire, etc. available, and so the non-standard bits are consistent in appearance with the rest of the car. I have found that they are good people to deal with. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Jones Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 10:10 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wiring Do any of you have any experience with wiring harnesses from British Wiring in Penn.? Any harness recommendations? Thanks Bob [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 2 11:34:10 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 10:34:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1980 Spit: vacuum retard In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Has anyone ever been able to repair a vacuum advance or > retard unit. I had my TR3A advance unit professionally rebuilt a few years ago. Wasn't cheap, but came back looking and working like new, including the funky threads on the vacuum fitting. You might enquire at your local independent or NAPA auto parts store. Or I believe Clark's Discount Auto Parts in Bellflower, CA can still do it. (The place I used before is no longer in business; owner decided there was more money in computer software ) Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 2 12:40:10 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 11:40:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wedge question In-Reply-To: <981357.35076.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <981357.35076.qm@web83813.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <93718677D7A14273AD75F9016FC851BA@jdnet.deere.com> > I used a slide hammer with a lug adapter Which is a common tool for American cars. Should be available to borrow at your local Kragen/O'Reilly (etc) store. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 2 12:43:19 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 11:43:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] question on top bit In-Reply-To: <200906011843.13725.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <994170679.2209141243830312759.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <200906011843.13725.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <8DA466F58F174B18BC43097707CE499B@jdnet.deere.com> > Ray, > > I dont think this answer will help but if you are talking about a TR4, Ack! My mistake, somehow I thought he was asking about a TR2-3. My apologies! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 2 12:55:25 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 11:55:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Windshield Job In-Reply-To: <1713B8A584F04775B42E71A2CEF02F3C@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <2C0CC2ECBF68459E9AA8EA1BF18A5555@jdnet.deere.com> <1713B8A584F04775B42E71A2CEF02F3C@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8B774446C54743259BDD6B6BB80B7FCA@jdnet.deere.com> > Is there anything else that I should know (or order) before I take my old > w/s to a classic car W/S shop (I think I want this done professionally, > isn't this a good idea?). Also, any special instructions that I should > give > to the Professional? I took mine to an ordinary auto glass shop many years ago, and it worked out great for me. Just handed them the old assembly (less stanchions & tenons, etc.) and let them disassemble (so they could see how it went together) and reassemble with new glass. I first asked if they could supply the glass; then gave them mine after they said "No". The shop supplied the correct material to go between the frame and glass. I believe they have different filler thicknesses, to accommodate variations in glass thickness. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 2 14:21:35 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 16:21:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob, In my opinion the best harness on the market is made by Advance Auto Wire (http://www.advanceautowire.com/) but it is by no means an "original" harness. It does away with all of the stock fuses and relays and replaces them with a heavy duty power block consisting of 7 relays and 8 fuses. Every piece of wire is at least a gauge up from standard. It basically brings our cars up to modern wiring standards. After the death of the previous owner, Mike Masters, Steve Carrick obtained the business and is about all caught up with back orders. I have one of the early TR6 harnesses in my car and I haven't had a single electrical problem or blown fuse in 4 years now. My installation is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_1.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Jones Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 10:10 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wiring Do any of you have any experience with wiring harnesses from British Wiring in Penn.? Any harness recommendations? Thanks Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 2 14:25:07 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 16:25:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wiring In-Reply-To: <956CDA18297643B0BFC992E72B9BC832@bboffice> References: <956CDA18297643B0BFC992E72B9BC832@bboffice> Message-ID: <19038675CDF34B4A83E59636F67064FC@BOBSNEWPC> Bill, I actually have a picture of Frank's wiring diagram on my site http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm It's in full color and looks to be about the size of a TR3 trunk. It's about 1/2 down the page that shows a few of the parts that Frank makes. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 10:31 AM To: 'Bob Jones'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Wiring I think they are the folks I contacted for my TR3, if they carry harnesses from Auto Sparks in Nottingham then they are. Just finished installation last week, a good looking harness that installed with a very minimum of effort. Many thanks to Frank, FGFO1 at aol.com, for supplying a large format diagram that made life much easier during the process. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Jones Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 8:10 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wiring Do any of you have any experience with wiring harnesses from British Wiring in Penn.? Any harness recommendations? Thanks Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From 60TR3A at cox.net Tue Jun 2 16:25:54 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 15:25:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <54F1986D-2BEF-4C65-B60E-3881D3369CEB@cox.net> I concur with Bob's conclusion! And while it is not exactly original (it has the basically correct color codes} but the wires are heavier! But when you wrap it it is really hard to tell the difference. And the heavy wire makes the lights all bright!!! Even if you decide to stay with a more traditional wire system, go to his web site & download the current flow diagram for instant recognition of what wire does what. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ On 2 Jun, 2009, at 1:21 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > Bob, > In my opinion the best harness on the market is made by Advance Auto > Wire > (http://www.advanceautowire.com/) but it is by no means an "original" > harness. It does away with all of the stock fuses and relays and > replaces > them with a heavy duty power block consisting of 7 relays and 8 > fuses. Every > piece of wire is at least a gauge up from standard. It basically > brings our > cars up to modern wiring standards. After the death of the previous > owner, > Mike Masters, Steve Carrick obtained the business and is about all > caught up > with back orders. I have one of the early TR6 harnesses in my car > and I > haven't had a single electrical problem or blown fuse in 4 years > now. My > installation is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_1.htm > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jeremiah at curryclan.net Tue Jun 2 19:35:05 2009 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 19:35:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] hi-beam questions. Message-ID: Recent mail has made me question something Looking at the wiring diagrams I have seen, they show a high-beam indicator light. My car has a "main-beam" indicator light. Is the main beam the high beam or the low beam? I would think low beam Thanks, Jeremiah From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jun 2 19:48:46 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 18:48:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] hi-beam questions. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It has always been my understanding that the Main Beam is the Bright or high beam setting. The alternative is dipped beam. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry Sent: Tuesday, June 02, 2009 6:35 PM To: 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: [TR] hi-beam questions. Recent mail has made me question something Looking at the wiring diagrams I have seen, they show a high-beam indicator light. My car has a "main-beam" indicator light. Is the main beam the high beam or the low beam? I would think low beam Thanks, Jeremiah This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Jun 2 19:49:37 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 18:49:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] hi-beam questions. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0906021849l2cdbd7e9q923d4b3fc3e79f0d@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 6:35 PM, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > Looking at the wiring diagrams I have seen, they show a high-beam indicator > light. My car has a "main-beam" indicator light. Is the main beam the > high > beam or the low beam? I would think low beam I believe BritCar 'Main Beam' = US "High Beam'. Geo From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Jun 2 19:57:36 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 01:57:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] hi-beam questions. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1614662674.409911243994256043.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Looking at the wiring diagrams I have seen, they show a high-beam indicator >light. B My car has a "main-beam" indicator light. B Is the main beam the high >beam or the low beam? B I would think low beam The beam indicator light is to let you know the high beams areB on. Not sure why the call it "main," though. Terry Smith, New Hampshire B From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 2 06:00:21 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 08:00:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] broken-off windshield mounting bolts References: <4A2471D5.2090602@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8C41CDCCF0D742CB96E35411788DF9FD@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I'm looking at removing both of the broken-off windshield mounting bolts (that hold the w/s stanchion to the body). Any suggestions beyond PBblaster? Somebody said to use ATF (surely not automatic trans fluid?)... I've never had success using a 'Back-Me-Out' Drill Bit? Any ideas? > From one of the previous emails, it likes like I should have used > ATF=Acetone mix rather then PBblaster. > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jun 2 22:08:27 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 00:08:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1980 Spit: vacuum retard In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4A25BEFB.23448.B6B798B@localhost> On 2 Jun 2009 at 9:38, Tim Gaines wrote: > Has anyone ever been able to repair a vacuum advance or > retard unit. Nope, but I'm not sure it's worth the trouble. Well, if it is rigged to produce a retard at idle then it is part of the emissions system, so that's a reason, more or less. But without the rest of the system in place the effect is minimal. When my '80 Spitfire's air pump seized a long time ago I disconnected everything, then ran it through state inspection with the vacuum retard hooked up and not hooked up. It was marginally cleaner with the retard, so I left it in place. But it was not so much dirtier that I would have worried about it if the diaphram was broken. If the diaphram provides advance via manifold vacuum, it is for extra power at part throttle, sort of. More specifically, it advances the ignition a bit when the intake air charge is less dense due to the throttle being not open fully. This give you more power at part throttle, but it isn't really necessary because if you want more power you can always just open the throttle further. When the throttle is fully open you have no vacuum advance at all, i.e. the same as if it was disconected. So what's the point? It gives you marginally better fuel mileage at part throttle. Does that matter in a Spitfire? Well, of course, but not so much as for a heavier car with a bigger engine. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jun 2 23:07:32 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 05:07:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] broken-off windshield mounting bolts In-Reply-To: <8C41CDCCF0D742CB96E35411788DF9FD@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <4A2471D5.2090602@comcast.net> <8C41CDCCF0D742CB96E35411788DF9FD@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: The fasteners that hold the windshield to the body on my 1960 TR3A are dzuz fasteners not bolts. If you have broken the heads off of your dzuz fasteners you may be able to remove the remaining part be getting it to make a quarter turn counter clockwise. Try drilling a hole through the remnant and driving in a piece of square stock that you can turn with a wrench. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail.. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_QuickAdd_062009 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 3 00:21:13 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 23:21:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1980 Spit: vacuum retard In-Reply-To: <4A25BEFB.23448.B6B798B@localhost> Message-ID: <20090603062113436.SGRT14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > It gives you > marginally better fuel mileage at part throttle. Does that > matter in a Spitfire? Well, of course, but not so much as > for a heavier car with a bigger engine. Even if you start at 30 mpg, a 10% saving can be significant if you drive very much. At 10k miles per year and $2.50/gallon; going from an average of 30 mpg to 33 mpg would save you about $75/year. Pretty good return for something that also reduces CO2 emission. It also seems to me that having a working vacuum advance makes the engine more responsive at part throttle. It's a subtle effect to be sure; but several times now (on different cars), I've thought the engine seemed sluggish only to find that the vacuum advance was not working. But I agree with Jim, I wouldn't bother with vacuum retard. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jun 3 03:20:24 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 10:20:24 +0100 Subject: [TR] hi-beam questions. References: <1614662674.409911243994256043.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2783F715F6D84A669864EA7B5B8DAB35@John> Terry Smith wrote: > The beam indicator light is to let you know the high beams areB on. > Not sure why the call it "main," though. Another British application of language usage. Pre-1939, the majority of cars had different headlight functions than today. The left hand lamp had one filament that was 'dipped' using an electro-magnetic reflector in the lamp itself. Hence the name 'dip switch.' When operated, the dip switch dipped the LH beam and extinguished the RH 'main' beam - so the car was running only with one lamp on the LH side. The term 'high beam,' was only applied where the light emitted from the lamps was too high and illuminated trees and buildings rather than the road ahead. Worth mentioning too, that the light 'spread' of these now ancient lamps was limited in the extreme. They were truly 'beams' rather than the blanket of light we know today. Jonmac From rjoles at gmail.com Wed Jun 3 09:16:36 2009 From: rjoles at gmail.com (Randy Joles) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 11:16:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Not Enough Time Message-ID: Hello All, I've been away from the computer for a few days. My wonderful wife passed on a week ago. She had been fighting spreading colon cancer for the last 2 1/2 years. She was a great inspiration to everyone she came into contact with. We were lucky in that she was able to be home for her last three weeks, and I felt honored that I was with her when she passed over. I never imagined that I would be lucky enough to find someone like her. She went along to car-shows, car-swap meets, etc. Her last gift to me was my 10 car garage and 6000 sqft shop building. She also got her absolute dream house, but she was diagnosed before it was finished - so she never really got to enjoy it I'm back at work 1/2 days for now, and I'll get back to full-time as soon as I'm able. It just seems so unfair that a wonderful person like Terri only got 44 years, when grouchy old men like me seem to go on forever. If you feel so inclined, the next time you see a classic or antique car on the road, please give Terri a quick thought so that she knows that she isn't forgotton. Thanks, Randy Joles From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jun 3 10:01:29 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 12:01:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help with steering part, dimensions needed Message-ID: <380-2200963316129301@M2W018.mail2web.com> Listers, I am in a bit of a quandary. In my quest to restore my 1970 GT6+ to its almost showroom/as it left the dealer condition for Triumphest/VTR, I need a bit of assistance. I have managed to find an original steering wheel and mounting boss/hub to replace the Lecarra for the show (apparently the hub/boss has no separate part number, but is part of 160038 steering wheel and pad assy for those so inclined) but it has somehow lost a crucial piece. The part I am referring to is a small, pressed on metal flanged ring, pressed onto the central casting of the hub that the horn button mounts into. This flanged piece secures the mounting pad to the assy when you press the pad over the flange. Now, I can make a new flanged piece, but I need the dimension from the top edge of the casting it's pressed on to, to the top edge of the flange as installed on the hub. Also the outer diameter of the flange itself. If anybody has a hub/boss lying around, or a column without the pad and horn button mounted, that could take a couple of measurements for me I would really appreciate it  any pre 76 Spitfire/GT6 or TR6 should be the same as far as this part is concerned  Thanks - -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint From geo at ohio.net Wed Jun 3 10:28:23 2009 From: geo at ohio.net (Geo) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 12:28:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help with steering part, dimensions needed References: <380-2200963316129301@M2W018.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <1E749F1CD4E84CCC93391EF8893BC171@Medina.local> duct tape it.....just kidding i probably have one of these layin around let me look.... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 12:01 PM Subject: [TR] Help with steering part, dimensions needed > Listers, I am in a bit of a quandary. In my quest to restore my 1970 GT6+ > to its almost showroom/as it left the dealer condition for > Triumphest/VTR, > I need a bit of assistance. > I have managed to find an original steering wheel and mounting boss/hub to > replace the Lecarra for the show (apparently the hub/boss has no separate > part number, but is part of 160038 steering wheel and pad assy for those > so > inclined) but it has somehow lost a crucial piece. The part I am > referring > to is a small, pressed on metal flanged ring, pressed onto the central > casting of the hub that the horn button mounts into. This flanged piece > secures the mounting pad to the assy when you press the pad over the > flange. Now, I can make a new flanged piece, but I need the dimension from > the top edge of the casting it's pressed on to, to the top edge of the > flange as installed on the hub. Also the outer diameter of the flange > itself. If anybody has a hub/boss lying around, or a column without the > pad and horn button mounted, that could take a couple of measurements for > me I would really appreciate it  any pre 76 Spitfire/GT6 or TR6 should be > the same as far as this part is concerned  > > Thanks - > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web.com  What can On Demand Business Solutions do for you? > http://link.mail2web.com/Business/SharePoint > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as geo at ohio.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jun 3 11:07:17 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 17:07:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Not Enough Time In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <931146037.141171244048837905.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I'm sorry for your trouble. I can't begin to fully appreciate your loss. Keep on living as she would want you to do. Her memory will never die. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 3 11:15:51 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:15:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans America Drive, Stand ... Part 1 Message-ID: <4A26AFC7.5030409@tscusa.org> All, I am not sure it the original email was too long because I have not seen it in the main 4 archives. So I split it in two parts .... By now many of you have been following our latest trials and tribulations of the STTAG, a.k.a. Uncle Jack. and the Triumph Trans America Charity Drive 2009. Well a lot has transpired since the transmission exploded Sunday 24 May 2009. Replacement transmission was generously sourced by Duncan Wood of Red River Triumphs, the rebuild kits supplied by John Esposito of Quantum Mechanics, the OD setup supplied by myself., shipping by Steve Yott of ISOA. Upon timely arrival of all the components at the ISOA rebuilding destination, a quick inspection showed a mouse hole in the side of the OD shipping box - yep, the replacement main shaft had vanished from the box!!! Through another showing of extreme support for this cause and generosity, a new J type OD main shaft, pump cam, clips and such were sourced at Victoria British and provided free of charge by Susan Berkowitz of Victoria British, packed up and shipped FedEx Saturday delivery. By now we have all seen it miracles the ISOA STTAG team will work with this new pile of parts, the results are spectacular! (see part 2) -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Coordinator Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield, and the occasional smell of manure! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 3 11:17:22 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 11:17:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans America Drive, Part 2 ... and be counted for Uncle Jack!! Message-ID: <4A26B022.6030501@tscusa.org> part 2 So ... Now is the time to stand up and be counted. So, are you a Friend of Triumph , Triumph enthusiast, or one of the believers in this Trans American Charity Drive and cause, waiting to see Uncle Jack hit the highway in Florida and finish in San Luis Obispo? Want to prove the nay sayers WRONG!!! The way points and stopovers of this route are pretty much defined, one or two may be added. However the routes in between each host club are wide open and up to the host clubs to decide for John. These clubs should be talking with each neighbor host club for meeting with John at the midpoint between their club and the departing host club, and caravaning with John to the midpoint toward the next host club. One car or two hundred, bring them all to meet John from the previous club and see him off to the next club. Contact your Governor, local media and let them know what this drive is all about. I know times are tough for all of us, but this drive needs ALL of our help to arrive safely at Triumphest / NATC 2009 in San Luis Obispo. John Macartney has invested a huge amount of his own personal funds to make this drive and provide necessary parts for the STTAG. ISOA has invested a bunch of time and money into this restoration taking the full restoration on themselves. ISOA for one could sure use your support. Send them a few bucks and and tell them "thank you for your hard work over the past 14 months!" http://www.snic-braaapp.org/iapply.pdf Please become informed about the host clubs along John's route, talk to John at one of the stop overs and put some cash in his hand and say "Thank you John Macartney for promoting awareness for this terrible affliction - PTSD" and visit http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ and stay updated with regular emails - sign up at http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/mailman/listinfo/triumphtrans-americainfo_triumphtransamerica.org.uk Caravan along with the STTAG, pick up a meal or a tank of gas for John, or send in a charitable donation of your own directly to one of the selected PTSD / Trauma charities or organizations. Get your local club involved in identifying your own local PTSD charity and aid organizations, and VA hospitals. DO IT!! See you in Florida, all along the routes, and San Luis Obispo for Triumphest / NATC 2009!! -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Coordinator Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield, and the occasional smell of manure! From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jun 3 12:01:54 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 14:01:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: Hey Guys, Is anyone out there? I have been in the dark with no posts since 5/26. I miss you guys. Is it my AOL? Darrell **************Shop Inspiron, Studio and XPS Laptops at Dell.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222616459x1201464730/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.d oubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215218145%3B37264238%3Bd) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 3 12:39:13 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 12:39:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] Message-ID: <4A26C351.8000408@tscusa.org> -------- Original Message -------- Glenn, Can you see if we can get a club to donate a complete tool kit for the car. This would be tools suitable for maintenance of a british car. fairly compact and has the bits needed to facilitate any repairs. I would also like to have a carb synchronizer and a mixture adjustment tool added to the mix. I would like this before the trip to Florida. -- Joe Pawlak VI DataPrint Burlington Illinois 847/683-9683 joe at vidataprint.com Greetings All Now the the TTA STTAG is in perfect form again and looking absolutely marvelous, we are in need of a suitable toolkit for the boot. If any clubs wish to support this drive by assembling a quality tool kit, Please contact me directly 303-665-6040 mailbox #5 stagbytriumph at tscusa.org -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Coordinator The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Wed Jun 3 12:40:01 2009 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 13:40:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We're still here. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO NASS #627 http://web.me.com/bobberger/Site/Photos/Photos.html On Jun 3, 2009, at 1:01 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Hey Guys, > Is anyone out there? I have been in the dark with no posts since > 5/26. I > miss you guys. Is it my AOL? > Darrell > > **************Shop Inspiron, Studio and XPS Laptops at Dell.com > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222616459x1201464730/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.d > oubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215218145%3B37264238%3Bd) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Wed Jun 3 12:51:59 2009 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 14:51:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1980 Spit: vacuum retard In-Reply-To: <4A25BEFB.23448.B6B798B@localhost> References: <4A25BEFB.23448.B6B798B@localhost> Message-ID: My Spit distributor has the vacuum retard unit, and you are probably right about too much bother to try fixing it. The emissions stuff is long gone, and it idles nicely already at a steady 850 rpm. However, when I got my 1974 TR6, also with the retard unit, I couldn't get a nice, low, steady idle until I reconnected the unit. It really makes a difference on that car. I was surprised because many on the list advised leaving it disconnected. The rest of the story is that I have 1980 Spit parts car, also with a busted vacuum unit. That car was a lucky find, built two weeks after mine, cheap, and sitting just 50 miles away. Anyway, I may try to get into one of the units just to see what's what. Tim 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 At 12:08 AM -0400 6/3/09, Jim Muller wrote: >On 2 Jun 2009 at 9:38, Tim Gaines wrote: > >> Has anyone ever been able to repair a vacuum advance or >> retard unit. > >Nope, but I'm not sure it's worth the trouble. Well, if it is rigged >to produce a retard at idle then it is part of the emissions system, >so that's a reason, more or less. But without the rest of the system >in place the effect is minimal. When my '80 Spitfire's air pump >seized a long time ago I disconnected everything, then ran it through >state inspection with the vacuum retard hooked up and not hooked up. >It was marginally cleaner with the retard, so I left it in place. >But it was not so much dirtier that I would have worried about it if >the diaphram was broken. > >If the diaphram provides advance via manifold vacuum, it is for extra >power at part throttle, sort of. More specifically, it advances the >ignition a bit when the intake air charge is less dense due to the >throttle being not open fully. This give you more power at part >throttle, but it isn't really necessary because if you want more >power you can always just open the throttle further. When the >throttle is fully open you have no vacuum advance at all, i.e. the >same as if it was disconected. So what's the point? It gives you >marginally better fuel mileage at part throttle. Does that matter in >a Spitfire? Well, of course, but not so much as for a heavier car >with a bigger engine. > > >-- >Jim Muller >jimmuller at rcn.com >'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as mtgaines at mail.presby.edu > >http://www.team.net/archive From ms6453 at optonline.net Wed Jun 3 12:25:07 2009 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 14:25:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <56305DF37379419B8157D2800C8AA820@marcydesk> Still here. I think many listers post directly on the 6Pack forum lately. That may account for the light traffic. The forum allows you to post pics as well. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 2:01 PM Subject: [6pack] Test > Hey Guys, > Is anyone out there? I have been in the dark with no posts since 5/26. > I > miss you guys. Is it my AOL? > Darrell > > **************Shop Inspiron, Studio and XPS Laptops at Dell.com > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222616459x1201464730/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.d > oubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215218145%3B37264238%3Bd) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as ms6453 at optonline.net > _______ Mitch Seff Brite Do-it best Hardware Locksmiths-Industrial supply 112-15 Jamaica Ave 718-849-8121 Fax 718-849-8567 www.brite.doitbest.com brithard at optonline.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 3 13:44:16 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 12:44:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1980 Spit: vacuum retard In-Reply-To: References: <4A25BEFB.23448.B6B798B@localhost> Message-ID: <8838498AAE464CC8AD50545A51F8DA93@jdnet.deere.com> > However, > when I got my 1974 TR6, also with the retard unit, I couldn't get a > nice, low, steady idle until I reconnected the unit. Hopefully this isn't too obvious for words, Tim. With the 73 Stag motor, I had to bend the clips that operate the float bowl vent valves to get the idle down without the vacuum retard. They were nominally adjustable, but the adjustment didn't have enough range. -- Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jun 3 13:50:54 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 20:50:54 +0100 Subject: [TR] Not Enough Time References: Message-ID: <7684746AC06E4381AADC1B6A5DB19F3F@John> Randy In the midst of all the daily pressures that surround so many of us, there is always time to write to someone who has lost someone so precious as Terri obviously was to you. I am confident everyone who read your post was immediately able to understand, if not actually identify through personal knowledge - of the gaping, unfillable hole that is currently in your life. Nothing except time, grieving and going through the whole sad process will foreshorten things for you to one day re-emerge into this tragic and unkind world - but to progressively know happiness again in whatever form it takes. A long time ago, there was a singing group from Australia called The Seekers. One of their songs, "Colours of my Life" seems appropriate in a strange sort of way. One of the lines was "I'll be shedding black and grey, to take on red and blue" Sadly, my friend, you'll be finding yourself in the black and grey for a while - but never stop looking for the red, blue, yellow and green - for they will surely come to you, given time. I am sure you are presently in the thoughts and prayers of many on this list, as Terri is as well. Jonmac From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jun 3 13:54:13 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 15:54:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: In a message dated 6/3/2009 3:43:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, forzion at maine.rr.com writes: May also that be many listers are out enjoying the fruit of their labors over the winter! It's crusing time! Thanks Guys, I have received several responses from all three lists so evidently I can post to the lists but I am not receiving any list posts, just off list posts. Does anyone out there have AOL with normal List function? None of the response so far are AOL customers that I can tell. My spam folder was blocking a few List posts before this total crash. Nothing going in there now. Darrell Going to be cruising in the TR3B in a few short weeks @ the TRA National Meeting in Maryland! **************Shop Inspiron, Studio and XPS Laptops at Dell.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222616459x1201464730/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.d oubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215218145%3B37264238%3Bd) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 3 14:02:58 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 14:02:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Test In-Reply-To: <56305DF37379419B8157D2800C8AA820@marcydesk> References: <56305DF37379419B8157D2800C8AA820@marcydesk> Message-ID: <4A26D6F2.8070809@tscusa.org> Gents, My posts do not seem to be getting through to the Triumph and TR8 list, but are getting posted on the 6 pack and Spits. Same server and list software, same common registration details and options, but different posting results. Not quite sure what is up with that. Mark? Glenn Mitch wrote: > Still here. I think many listers post directly on the 6Pack forum > lately. That may account for the light traffic. The forum allows you > to post pics as well. > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; > > Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 2:01 PM > Subject: [6pack] Test > > >> Hey Guys, >> Is anyone out there? I have been in the dark with no posts since >> 5/26. I >> miss you guys. Is it my AOL? >> Darrell >> > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jun 3 14:10:19 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 16:10:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help with steering part, dimensions needed (solved thanks) Message-ID: <380-22009633201019312@M2W024.mail2web.com> Thanks guys/gals Part made, problem solved - now to the next challenge, installing the vent window seals! Barry Schwartz San DIego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From wensley_tr at comcast.net Wed Jun 3 14:34:13 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 16:34:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003401c9e48a$a88db9d0$f9a92d70$@net> You may need some help....That be WEST VIRGINIA -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 3:54 PM To: forzion at maine.rr.com; spitfires at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Test In a message dated 6/3/2009 3:43:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, forzion at maine.rr.com writes: May also that be many listers are out enjoying the fruit of their labors over the winter! It's crusing time! Thanks Guys, I have received several responses from all three lists so evidently I can post to the lists but I am not receiving any list posts, just off list posts. Does anyone out there have AOL with normal List function? None of the response so far are AOL customers that I can tell. My spam folder was blocking a few List posts before this total crash. Nothing going in there now. Darrell Going to be cruising in the TR3B in a few short weeks @ the TRA National Meeting in Maryland! **************Shop Inspiron, Studio and XPS Laptops at Dell.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222616459x1201464730/aol?redir=htt p:%2F%2Fad.d oubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215218145%3B37264238%3Bd) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jun 3 14:43:06 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 20:43:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Test In-Reply-To: <4A26D6F2.8070809@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <90622848.248901244061786053.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > From: "Glenn A. Merrell" > To: "Mitch" > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net, spitfires at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, "Mark J. Bradakis" > Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2009 3:02:58 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Test > > My posts do not seem to be getting through to the Triumph and TR8 > list, > but are getting posted on the 6 pack and Spits. Apparently not so. I do not believe I am subscribed to those other lists, so I assume I got this through triumphs. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jun 3 15:02:18 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 21:02:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] In-Reply-To: <4A26C351.8000408@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I'll send a hundred bucks in the name of the Minnesota Triumphs towards your tool kit, with a challenge to all other Triumph Clubs who have not been building this car to match it. I think we should let Joe, with his Stag knowledge, pick out the tools . Joe, send me private mail with a PayPal address for you and I will shoot you the loot today. Somebody repost this to all the other Triumph lists. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Glenn A. Merrell" wrote: > From: "Glenn A. Merrell" > To: "Triumph Triumph list" , "Spitfires Mail List Members" , > "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "TR8 Mail List Members" , "TR7" > Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2009 1:39:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] > > -------- Original Message -------- > > Glenn, > > Can you see if we can get a club to donate a complete tool kit for the > > car. This would be tools suitable for maintenance of a british car. > fairly compact and has the bits needed to facilitate any repairs. I > would also like to have a carb synchronizer and a mixture adjustment > tool added to the mix. I would like this before the trip to Florida. > > -- > Joe Pawlak > VI DataPrint > Burlington Illinois > 847/683-9683 > joe at vidataprint.com > > > Greetings All > > Now the the TTA STTAG is in perfect form again and looking absolutely > marvelous, > we are in need of a suitable toolkit for the boot. > > If any clubs wish to support this drive by assembling a quality tool > kit, > Please contact me directly > > 303-665-6040 mailbox #5 > stagbytriumph at tscusa.org > > -- > Glenn A. Merrell > TTA North American Coordinator > The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, > dead bugs on the windshield! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Jun 3 15:42:57 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 17:42:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I'll do the same for the Central Florida VTR.... let me know the paypal address Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: "Triumph Triumph list" ; Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 5:02 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] > I'll send a hundred bucks in the name of the Minnesota Triumphs towards > your tool kit, with a challenge to all other Triumph Clubs who have not > been building this car to match it. > > I think we should let Joe, with his Stag knowledge, pick out the tools . > Joe, send me private mail with a PayPal address for you and I will shoot > you the loot today. > > Somebody repost this to all the other Triumph lists. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > > ----- "Glenn A. Merrell" wrote: > >> From: "Glenn A. Merrell" >> To: "Triumph Triumph list" , "Spitfires Mail >> List Members" , >> "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "TR8 Mail List Members" >> , "TR7" >> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2009 1:39:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central >> Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] >> >> -------- Original Message -------- >> >> Glenn, >> >> Can you see if we can get a club to donate a complete tool kit for the >> >> car. This would be tools suitable for maintenance of a british car. >> fairly compact and has the bits needed to facilitate any repairs. I >> would also like to have a carb synchronizer and a mixture adjustment >> tool added to the mix. I would like this before the trip to Florida. >> >> -- >> Joe Pawlak >> VI DataPrint >> Burlington Illinois >> 847/683-9683 From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Jun 3 16:39:20 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 17:39:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Test References: <56305DF37379419B8157D2800C8AA820@marcydesk> <4A26D6F2.8070809@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <464E5AF42B7E46A8BAA4F5925D700C61@KARL> I've seen plenty of your posts on the Triumphs list lately. Maybe they're not getting back to you, but they seem to be getting out. > Gents, > > My posts do not seem to be getting through to the Triumph and TR8 list, > but are getting posted on the 6 pack and Spits. > Same server and list software, same common registration details and > options, but different posting results. > > Not quite sure what is up with that. Mark? > > Glenn From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Jun 3 17:17:28 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 16:17:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] float bowl vent.......randall? Message-ID: <943732.18929.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm a little slow catching on! I've been having problems getting good idle also (along with other problems) but am interested in hearing more about the clips on the float bowl vent valves. are those inside the float bowl? I think i have my floats set right.............are these differant than setting float level? thanks gary n From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 3 18:38:41 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 17:38:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] float bowl vent.......randall? In-Reply-To: <943732.18929.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <943732.18929.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <116AB2ADFA6C42E9AF6CB2C281C6183B@jdnet.deere.com> > am interested in hearing more about > the > clips on the float bowl vent valves. are those inside the float bowl? I > think i have my floats set right.............are these differant than > setting float level? Yup, the lever that operates the vent is outside the carb; and is different than adjusting the float level. Apparently there were at least two variations, as the one that Nelson shows on the Buckeye Triumphs site http://tinyurl.com/qn8yzw is different than the one on my 73 Stag and in the factory emissions manual. http://tinyurl.com/p6t2qk In the second photo, the clip is that black band visible behind the adjustment screw. I removed the screw entirely, then slid the clip off and bent it with my fingers. What the valve does is close the bowl vent connection to the air cleaner and open it to the carbon canister, when the throttle is closed. This both helps ensure that any fumes are directed to the carbon canister when the engine is turned off; and makes the anti-runon solenoid work. (The ARS applies vacuum to the float bowls through that valve, to stop fuel going into the engine.) Strange idle problems have also been caused by the vent valve being sticky or stuck, so also check that it moves freely. -- Randall From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz Wed Jun 3 19:31:30 2009 From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy) Date: Thu, 04 Jun 2009 13:31:30 +1200 Subject: [TR] Condolences....TTA Stag... Message-ID: Hi Listers... Down here in Feilding, New Zealand, it is a long way from all the action over there in the good old U.S.A......I enjoy reading the mail on this site, and have drawn solutions to some problems, so all good. I would like to express my heartfelt sympathy to Randy on the loss of his wife. Randy you are obviously grieving real hard at the moment, I had a mate who lost his wife very suddenly a number of years ago, and it was real hard to see the agony that Tom went through. He would come and visit almost every second night for a long time, but gradually those visits ceased, and Tom was able to move on. I guess it seems like Hell, but hang in there Randy, it will get better. Another mate of mine has recently lost his wife, and slowly he's picking up the pieces as well. The other topic is the TTA Stag. How the hell did such a catastrophic disaster happen? Never seen that before, and would certainly not like to see it again! Good to hear that the rest of the Triumph community over there is pitching in to help this worthy cause. Good luck everybody on this mighty journey. Would love to be there to be part of it....... Best Regards..... Trev. Hardy 65TR4A; ex Stag; ex 2500TC owner! I learnt to drive in a Herald! From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jun 3 19:55:08 2009 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 18:55:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] need 1x23 no good input shaft fro alignment tool Message-ID: <8cbd782d0906031855s43bfa03dnfe0c509be7409c45@mail.gmail.com> Anybody have a no good 23x1 [spit?] input shaft or clutch alignment tool they would part with? Tired of my method of installing my dual disk Quarter Master clutch pack [I put the pack on the tranny shaft, install the tranny, then align and tighten the clutch bolts to the flywheel using a2" hole I drilled in the bottom of the case. -- Chuck Arnold From peterschop at gmail.com Wed Jun 3 20:23:42 2009 From: peterschop at gmail.com (Peter Schoppelry) Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 21:23:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: I also have not received any mail from 6pack or the Triumph list since May 26th with my AOL account either. On the 26th, I received six digests from the 6pack and seven from the Triumph list, then nothing. I have checked my AOL spam folder and the mail was not there. It just did not come through. I had to sign up with my gmail account to continue receiving the list. What is up with AOL and the list? I have been using the AOL account for many years and receive all my mail with it but now have go to another email server to receive my TR list. Peter Schoppelry > > Message: 8 > Date: Wed, 3 Jun 2009 15:54:13 EDT > From: TR250Driver at aol.com > Subject: Re: [TR] Test > To: forzion at maine.rr.com, spitfires at autox.team.net, > 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > In a message dated 6/3/2009 3:43:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > forzion at maine.rr.com writes: > > May also that be many listers are out enjoying the > fruit of their labors over the winter! It's crusing > time! > > > Thanks Guys, > I have received several responses from all three lists so evidently I can > post to the lists but I am not receiving any list posts, just off list > posts. Does anyone out there have AOL with normal List function? None of > the > response so far are AOL customers that I can tell. My spam folder was > blocking a few List posts before this total crash. Nothing going in there > now. > Darrell > Going to be cruising in the TR3B in a few short weeks @ the TRA National > Meeting in Maryland! From tom628 at verizon.net Wed Jun 3 21:33:54 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Wed, 03 Jun 2009 23:33:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Not Enough Time References: Message-ID: Randy: I'm so sorry to learn of your loss. I lost my beautiful wife to cancer also, 11 years ago, shortly after we were to begin our retirement fun together. I was going to try to express my sympathy and hopes for you, but I read Jonmac's message, and he expresses so eloquently what I believe we all feel, that i'll just say that I'll keep you and your wife in my thoughts and prayers. Tom Note ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Joles" To: Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 11:16 AM Subject: [TR] Not Enough Time > Hello All, > I've been away from the computer for a few days. My wonderful wife > passed on a week ago. She had been fighting spreading colon cancer for > the > last 2 1/2 years. She was a great inspiration to everyone she came into > contact with. We were lucky in that she was able to be home for her last > three weeks, and I felt honored that I was with her when she passed over. > I > never imagined that I would be lucky enough to find someone like her. She > went along to car-shows, car-swap meets, etc. Her last gift to me was my > 10 > car garage and 6000 sqft shop building. She also got her absolute dream > house, but she was diagnosed before it was finished - so she never really > got to enjoy it > I'm back at work 1/2 days for now, and I'll get back to full-time as > soon as I'm able. It just seems so unfair that a wonderful person like > Terri only got 44 years, when grouchy old men like me seem to go on > forever. > If you feel so inclined, the next time you see a classic or antique > car > on the road, please give Terri a quick thought so that she knows that she > isn't forgotton. > > Thanks, > Randy Joles > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jun 3 23:52:31 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 06:52:31 +0100 Subject: [TR] List messages getting through - TEST Message-ID: <78741F6D94BA43A2811558E8BB0E86FB@John> Something, somewhere seems to be wobbling. I understood MJB was doing some essential maintenance recently? What I've noticed is messages I used to post to the lists don't come back to me as before. Thought that was something Mark might have done to reduce 'clutter.'? There again, messages are still being received but the volume seems to be down a lot on some months ago. I put that down to the weather and people being out enjoying themselves - but now I'm not so sure. All my email is read using MS Outlook and its getting to be a pain to go on-line and check to see if my ISP is junking stuff it thinks could be spam - as well as checking filters Jonmac From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 4 00:25:20 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 00:25:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] List messages getting through - TEST In-Reply-To: <78741F6D94BA43A2811558E8BB0E86FB@John> References: <78741F6D94BA43A2811558E8BB0E86FB@John> Message-ID: Don't know what the problem is John, but I have it too. Although my posts do all seem to get back to me, some of the posts from the list never come to me. I can go to the Digest/Archives and see them but have no idea as to why some posters to the list never show up in my. I too us MS Outlook. B Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 11:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] List messages getting through - TEST Something, somewhere seems to be wobbling. I understood MJB was doing some essential maintenance recently? What I've noticed is messages I used to post to the lists don't come back to me as before. Thought that was something Mark might have done to reduce 'clutter.'? There again, messages are still being received but the volume seems to be down a lot on some months ago. I put that down to the weather and people being out enjoying themselves - but now I'm not so sure. All my email is read using MS Outlook and its getting to be a pain to go on-line and check to see if my ISP is junking stuff it thinks could be spam - as well as checking filters Jonmac This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Thu Jun 4 04:43:32 2009 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 03:43:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR 7 for sale - Southeast Michigan Message-ID: <194529.90147.qm@web80802.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Triumphant ones, A co-worker has a TR 7 for sale. 1976, coupe. Sun roof, runs, has been repainted. $2300 obo 734-223-2122 I have no further info, and have no financial involvement, Nor do I have any place to store another car. Plus, my wife would kill me if I even suggested getting another car. Doug -- dmitchel at sbcglobal.net 1973 Spitfire 1500 1973 Stag From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jun 4 08:35:05 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 10:35:05 EDT Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: test David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Limited Time Offers: Save big on popular laptops at Dell (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221354145x1201369495/aol?redir=http:%2F %2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215221161%3B37268813%3By) From aribert at c3net.net Thu Jun 4 10:23:00 2009 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 12:23:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Several Team Net "mail list"questions Message-ID: 1. How does one know if a posting is too long - does one get an error message? I have been trying to send a mesage for the past two weeks with no success (thinking that there was an issue with my ISP) and it suddenly dawned on my that maybe the message is a bit too long. 2. How does one sign up to be able to post from an alternative e-mail address - I have done this once in the past but seem to unable to do so at the moment. I do not see this option when going to http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/..... TIA, Off in digest land awaiting your response (so that I can ask you all questions about my overtemp GT6). From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 4 11:07:36 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 10:07:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Several Team Net "mail list"questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <142EF12E2F254D119BCBC0828D331DE3@jdnet.deere.com> > 1. How does one know if a posting is too long - does one get an error > message? Nope, it just "falls on the floor". Sometimes the janitor will pick it out of the sweepings and pass it along, but most often it gets lost when the bit bucket is emptied. The limit is fairly low, I think around 1000 characters. > 2. How does one sign up to be able to post from an alternative e-mail > address There may be other ways, but the only permanent one I know is to subscribe your alternate address; and then mark it to not receive posts (assuming you don't want two copies). However, if it's just a temporary thing, then you can just change your list address on the options page. Of course that means the posts will also go to your new address. -- Randall From aribert at c3net.net Thu Jun 4 13:05:53 2009 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 15:05:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] GT6 overtemp issue Was: Evans NPG+ Message-ID: <4beb4e6832ee4f9d9a8e044d0682f062.squirrel@server6.glis.net> 5th attempt at posting - sent this message a week ago Friday and a couple of times last week but it never posted - oversize message? On two weeks ago Monday I posted a question about NPG+, with respect to my overtemp GT6 A number of you posted suggestions that something basic such as a stuck thermostat or voltage stabilizer might be bad. Coolant level OK. Two years since last coolant flush & change - coolant was not discolored or silty at the time. Last Sun, I tried to get the car to begin to boil over so that I could see if there was correlation to the water temp gage. Engine fired up and within the first minute, the aluminum T-stat cover was becoming warm (but not the radiator inlet). This leads me to think that the T-stat is not stuck open. Over a span of 10 minutes, the water temp climbed so that the needle of the gage was just touching the red zone. Measured water temp at the junction of the upper rad hose to rad was 195 to 200 F (K-type T-couple). Eventually temp rose to 214F. Shut engine off and temp rose up to 222 within 1 minute, gurgling at the rad cap and began to trickle coolant. After cooldown, I tested the coolant for boilover rating (my current mix shows to be good to 262F). I have never used a stop leak type of product in this car. At 222F, the coolant should not have boiled over. With a 16 lb cap, the coolant should not trickle out. At 35 to 40 mph the wind rush should cause the water temp to drop down to near the 160F T-stat rating. Slightly frustrated. Suggestions please. Off in digest land. From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 4 13:13:56 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 19:13:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1602369617.657471244142836121.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> All right! Let's keep it rolling! Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "THOMAS FANSHER" wrote: > From: "THOMAS FANSHER" > To: pethier at comcast.net, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org > Cc: "Triumph Triumph list" , StagByTriumph at tscusa.org > Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2009 4:42:57 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] > > I'll do the same for the Central Florida VTR.... > let me know the paypal address > Tom > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Cc: "Triumph Triumph list" ; > > Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 5:02 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA > Stag] > > > > I'll send a hundred bucks in the name of the Minnesota Triumphs > towards > > your tool kit, with a challenge to all other Triumph Clubs who have > not > > been building this car to match it. > > > > I think we should let Joe, with his Stag knowledge, pick out the > tools . > > Joe, send me private mail with a PayPal address for you and I will > shoot > > you the loot today. > > > > Somebody repost this to all the other Triumph lists. > > > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > > > > ----- "Glenn A. Merrell" wrote: > > > >> From: "Glenn A. Merrell" > >> To: "Triumph Triumph list" , "Spitfires > Mail > >> List Members" , > >> "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "TR8 Mail List Members" > >> , "TR7" > >> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2009 1:39:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada > Central > >> Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA > Stag] > >> > >> -------- Original Message -------- > >> > >> Glenn, > >> > >> Can you see if we can get a club to donate a complete tool kit for > the > >> > >> car. This would be tools suitable for maintenance of a british > car. > >> fairly compact and has the bits needed to facilitate any repairs. > I > >> would also like to have a carb synchronizer and a mixture > adjustment > >> tool added to the mix. I would like this before the trip to > Florida. > >> > >> -- > >> Joe Pawlak > >> VI DataPrint > >> Burlington Illinois > >> 847/683-9683 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jun 4 19:04:36 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 21:04:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Several Team Net "mail list"questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6F3BD823E3C74914999105A349B54D2D@BOBSNEWPC> Unfortunately the only way you know is that it never appears....or at least mine never do. A bounce back would be nice so you could go and edit it. It just goes into limbo I guess. The allowed size is also a bit of a mystery.......I mean how are we supposed to know the size of what we're typing? Both Triumph and 6-Pack mail volumes seem to be down with posts to the 6-Pack & BCF Forums seem to be climbing. I'm also finding more and more Mail List guys showing up in the Forums. No stats to support it but that's my perception lately. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of aribert at c3net.net Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2009 12:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Several Team Net "mail list"questions 1. How does one know if a posting is too long - does one get an error message? I have been trying to send a mesage for the past two weeks with no success (thinking that there was an issue with my ISP) and it suddenly dawned on my that maybe the message is a bit too long. 2. How does one sign up to be able to post from an alternative e-mail address - I have done this once in the past but seem to unable to do so at the moment. I do not see this option when going to http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/..... TIA, Off in digest land awaiting your response (so that I can ask you all questions about my overtemp GT6). From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jun 4 20:42:24 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 19:42:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] float valve randall Message-ID: <356320.31009.qm@web59408.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> thanks randall..............very helpful and I'll be doing a thorough check of that.! gary n. From k8stoy at optonline.net Thu Jun 4 22:55:01 2009 From: k8stoy at optonline.net (k8stoy at optonline.net) Date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 04:55:01 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] In-Reply-To: References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: The Long Island Triumph Association will also contribute $100., so please send me the Pay Pal address, too. Kate Hurney LITA Treasurer ----- Original Message ----- From: THOMAS FANSHER Date: Wednesday, June 3, 2009 6:11 pm Subject: Re: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the TTA Stag] To: pethier at comcast.net, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Cc: Triumph Triumph list , StagByTriumph at tscusa.org > I'll do the same for the Central Florida VTR.... > let me know the paypal address > Tom > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Cc: "Triumph Triumph list" ; > > Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 5:02 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to the > TTA Stag] > > > > I'll send a hundred bucks in the name of the Minnesota > Triumphs towards > > your tool kit, with a challenge to all other Triumph Clubs who > have not > > been building this car to match it. > > > > I think we should let Joe, with his Stag knowledge, pick out > the tools . > > Joe, send me private mail with a PayPal address for you and I > will shoot > > you the loot today. > > > > Somebody repost this to all the other Triumph lists. > > > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier> > > ----- "Glenn A. Merrell" wrote: > > > >> From: "Glenn A. Merrell" > >> To: "Triumph Triumph list" , > "Spitfires Mail > >> List Members" , > >> "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "TR8 Mail List Members" > >> , "TR7" > >> Sent: Wednesday, June 3, 2009 1:39:13 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada > Central>> Subject: [TR] [Fwd: solicitations from other clubs to > the TTA Stag] > >> > >> -------- Original Message -------- > >> > >> Glenn, > >> > >> Can you see if we can get a club to donate a complete tool > kit for the > >> > >> car. This would be tools suitable for maintenance of a > british car. > >> fairly compact and has the bits needed to facilitate any > repairs. I > >> would also like to have a carb synchronizer and a mixture > adjustment>> tool added to the mix. I would like this before the > trip to Florida. > >> > >> -- > >> Joe Pawlak > >> VI DataPrint > >> Burlington Illinois > >> 847/683-9683 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as k8stoy at optonline.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Jun 5 05:50:00 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 07:50:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Body Question In-Reply-To: References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Is there anyone who has a TR3 that doesn't have the side cappings installed? I have a question whether the top 'corner' of the body is folded over or not. Boy is that a hard place to describe. At the top, underneath what I believe is called the elbow capping where it joins with short aluminum capping piecce. On one side of the car it is folded over - on the other it is more upright, creating a rather sharp edging. Images sent directly to me would be helpful for the body shop. Thanks a bunch Carl From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 5 11:19:52 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 10:19:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Body Question In-Reply-To: References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <40B418070CAA46F6B41C52D5C89E871A@jdnet.deere.com> > On one side of the car it is folded over - on the other > it > is more upright, creating a rather sharp edging. Carl, on TS13571L both sides are folded over. I checked this morning, but didn't have time to take pictures; possibly I could get some tonight. ISTR that TS39781LO is more like you describe, one side folded almost to right angles, and the other side only bent a little. I'm guessing that the original factory workers just gave them a swipe with a hammer, and didn't particularly worry about the angle as long as the dog leg capping fit in place. -- Randall From pryner at verizon.net Fri Jun 5 14:32:48 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 15:32:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> I'm in Indaiana visiting my son and his family. We were driving through Ellettsville and saw this. Although the paint was very nice, I wasn't too impressed with the rest of the car. I was told that the car was basically wasted so it wasn't a big loss to the restoration community. To each his own......... Pete http://picasaweb.google.com/pryner/TR3Seen# From tr3a at comcast.net Fri Jun 5 15:20:33 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 17:20:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> Message-ID: <092CFCE6-2317-486A-B1C7-2135798B9FB3@comcast.net> I hope they did the rack & pinion swap! :^) On Jun 5, 2009, at 4:32 PM, Peter Ryner wrote: > I'm in Indaiana visiting my son and his family. We were driving > through Ellettsville and saw this. Although the paint was very > nice, I wasn't too impressed with the rest of the car. I was told > that the car was basically wasted so it wasn't a big loss to the > restoration community. To each his own......... > Pete > > http://picasaweb.google.com/pryner/TR3Seen# From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Jun 5 15:21:32 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 14:21:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906051421k53587f68l5679587fbd65e1ea@mail.gmail.com> On Fri, Jun 5, 2009 at 1:32 PM, Peter Ryner wrote: > I'm in Indaiana visiting my son and his family. We were driving through > Ellettsville and saw this. Ooooh, that is sooo Southern Indiana (went to school in Bloomington and lived Southern Indiana for 25 years, so I can say that). I recall a model version of a similar TR3 in the Triumphest model contest some years back. As I recall it was a Monster TR3 driving over a row of crumples MGBs! Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 5 16:53:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 15:53:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> Message-ID: Oh NO! I must've lived too long in Hoosierland ... I kinda like it! -- Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Jun 5 17:56:08 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 19:56:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> Message-ID: <0D86306158FA44F1B49DAC24E2DAFBED@CarlPC> I do too. the rear deck/back end change is well done. Also like side paint/decal. reminiscent of the early corvettes but nice touch. I wonder what is under the hood. Modified class? C ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Friday, June 05, 2009 6:53 PM Subject: Re: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 > Oh NO! > > I must've lived too long in Hoosierland ... I kinda like it! > > -- Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri Jun 5 17:57:59 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 19:57:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Body Question In-Reply-To: <40B418070CAA46F6B41C52D5C89E871A@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <40B418070CAA46F6B41C52D5C89E871A@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <278D7D42AEDA4C7AA7FC41B83E1F0A85@CarlPC> thanks to all for the response. went by the shop today and contrary to my instructions they straightened both sides... argh. I am taking the elbow piece over tomorrow to see what needs to be done. Afraid to have them bent back due to weakening. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Carl TR'" ; Sent: Friday, June 05, 2009 1:19 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Body Question >> On one side of the car it is folded over - on the other >> it >> is more upright, creating a rather sharp edging. > > Carl, on TS13571L both sides are folded over. I checked this morning, but > didn't have time to take pictures; possibly I could get some tonight. > > ISTR that TS39781LO is more like you describe, one side folded almost to > right angles, and the other side only bent a little. I'm guessing that > the > original factory workers just gave them a swipe with a hammer, and didn't > particularly worry about the angle as long as the dog leg capping fit in > place. > > -- Randall From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Jun 5 20:30:07 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 22:30:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> Message-ID: <001b01c9e64e$b534e530$1f9eaf90$@net> I bet there's some Purists' flipping out now. Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, June 05, 2009 6:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 Oh NO! I must've lived too long in Hoosierland ... I kinda like it! -- Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Jun 5 21:38:33 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 20:38:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> Message-ID: <4A29E4B9.6080307@comcast.net> Do a search in Youtube for TR3's and it will pop up (sorry I don't have links handy). There is a multi-part series posted there that covers the 4wd conversion. Pretty Strange! Mike Peter Ryner wrote: > I'm in Indaiana visiting my son and his family. We were driving > through Ellettsville and saw this. Although the paint was very nice, > I wasn't too impressed with the rest of the car. I was told that the > car was basically wasted so it wasn't a big loss to the restoration > community. To each his own......... > Pete From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Jun 5 21:41:36 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 05 Jun 2009 20:41:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Body Question In-Reply-To: <40B418070CAA46F6B41C52D5C89E871A@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <40B418070CAA46F6B41C52D5C89E871A@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <4A29E570.8040209@comcast.net> Both corners are bent inward on TS11544L. I always wondered if they were that way from the factory! I didn't straighten them as I figured the cappings would cover them up. Mike >> On one side of the car it is folded over - on the other >> it >> is more upright, creating a rather sharp edging. >> > > Carl, on TS13571L both sides are folded over. I checked this morning, but > didn't have time to take pictures; possibly I could get some tonight. > > ISTR that TS39781LO is more like you describe, one side folded almost to > right angles, and the other side only bent a little. I'm guessing that the > original factory workers just gave them a swipe with a hammer, and didn't > particularly worry about the angle as long as the dog leg capping fit in > place. > > -- Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Jun 5 21:18:35 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 22:18:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: <4A29E4B9.6080307@comcast.net> References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> <4A29E4B9.6080307@comcast.net> Message-ID: here ya go... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f9QIalMoIM Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 20:38:33 -0700 > From: mlang99 at comcast.net > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 > > Do a search in Youtube for TR3's and it will pop up (sorry I don't have > links handy). There is a multi-part series posted there that covers the > 4wd conversion. > > Pretty Strange! > > Mike > > Peter Ryner wrote: > > I'm in Indaiana visiting my son and his family. We were driving > > through Ellettsville and saw this. Although the paint was very nice, > > I wasn't too impressed with the rest of the car. I was told that the > > car was basically wasted so it wasn't a big loss to the restoration > > community. To each his own......... > > Pete > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3a at comcast.net Fri Jun 5 21:28:33 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Fri, 5 Jun 2009 23:28:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] You gotta see this TR3 In-Reply-To: <4A29E4B9.6080307@comcast.net> References: <1992336834.259531244062938978.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <26FB156B1D634E9AB7537103A4D09AA5@PetePC> <4A29E4B9.6080307@comcast.net> Message-ID: <77771DC5-664B-486F-A53B-FDC465511E1D@comcast.net> All I could find was this... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f9QIalMoIM It's about 10 minutes long and is a series of stills from a serious basket case (though I've seen worse... haven't I, Andy?) to the finished product. I highly recommend turning your speakers OFF as the background "music" truly must be the most hideous ever performed. As Pete said... to each his own. On Jun 5, 2009, at 11:38 PM, Michael Lang wrote: > Do a search in Youtube for TR3's and it will pop up (sorry I don't > have > links handy). There is a multi-part series posted there that covers > the > 4wd conversion. > > Pretty Strange! > > Mike > > Peter Ryner wrote: >> I'm in Indaiana visiting my son and his family. We were driving >> through Ellettsville and saw this. Although the paint was very nice, >> I wasn't too impressed with the rest of the car. I was told that the >> car was basically wasted so it wasn't a big loss to the restoration >> community. To each his own......... >> Pete From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Jun 6 06:41:12 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 12:41:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 10 In-Reply-To: <20090418162630524.ZWBT27147.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <884199749.1324531244292072488.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Have no idea if this guy still has the car.B Seems low enough priced for the apparent condition.B Never saw this kind of Triumph before.B Are they common? http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1169827728.html Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Sat Jun 6 08:06:07 2009 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 07:06:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Thread size for TR6 instruments? Message-ID: <401856.36123.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi all I hit a sped bump putting my gauges back in my car this morning. About half of the knurled nuts won't thread back on so either they were cross threaded previously (or I just cross threaded them!) or some are a different thread and I've mixed them up. Is it possible that some are UNF and some are other (BSF or Whitworth)? If that isn't the case I can run a die down the posts - it appears to be 8-32, can someone conform this for me before I ruin my instruments? Thanks as alweays for all the help & advice as I bring this thing back to life. Steve 1969 TR6 CC25805 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Jun 6 08:21:07 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 15:21:07 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR 10 References: <884199749.1324531244292072488.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <25B89D3804AF4CDCA9575BCE76CE8CF6@John> Not common in the US or Canada. It was imported but regarded as too small and too slow. Probably too expensive as well. It was essentially built for the UK and known there, as well as all other markets where it was sold as the Standard Ten. This one had a 948cc engine (as the early Herald) while another, the Standard 8 had the same power unit but 803cc. This looks a nice one - except for the fact the engine's the wrong colour. It should be gold metallic and not BMC Olive Green. It also appears to have the little known accesory panel to the left of the speedo for two instruments off the TR range. Any two of oil pressure, ammeter or coolant temp. Price would seem to reflect what others like it in the same condition are being sold for in the UK. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2009 1:41 PM Subject: [TR] TR 10 > Have no idea if this guy still has the car.B Seems low enough priced for the > apparent condition.B Never saw this kind of Triumph before.B Are they > common? > > > http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1169827728.html > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 6 08:59:57 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 07:59:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thread size for TR6 instruments? In-Reply-To: <401856.36123.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090606145957628.QSQ14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Is it possible that some are UNF and some are other (BSF or > Whitworth)? If that isn't the case I can run a die down the > posts - it appears to be 8-32, can someone conform this for > me before I ruin my instruments? I've no idea about TR6 gauges; but FWIW the original TR3/A gauges have funny metric threads on the studs. I keep meaning to order taps & dies to fit; but I always seem to get by with wire-brushing the studs. The taps & dies are available individually, but not in any set I've looked at. Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jun 6 10:16:49 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 11:16:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 10 References: <884199749.1324531244292072488.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: they were at one time. we owned one from new, and it became my first car. low powered, slow, but very dependable. and this was darn important in high school. unfortunatly, the chicks went to guys with tr3 and 4's.....you had to work hard with a tr10!! best, Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2009 7:41 AM Subject: [TR] TR 10 > Have no idea if this guy still has the car.B Seems low enough priced for > the > apparent condition.B Never saw this kind of Triumph before.B Are they > common? > > > http://nh.craigslist.org/cto/1169827728.html > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Jun 6 10:48:29 2009 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 12:48:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Thread size for TR6 instruments? Message-ID: <61164.1244306909549.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi Steve, I have just tested some knurled instrument nuts with my tap set. I think you will find those threads to be M4 x .7, one of the places there are metric threads on our triumphs. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN -----Original Message----- >From: Steve Smith >Sent: Jun 6, 2009 10:06 AM >To: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: [TR] Thread size for TR6 instruments? > >Hi all > >I hit a sped bump putting my gauges back in my car this morning. About half of the knurled nuts won't thread back on so either they were cross threaded previously (or I just cross threaded them!) or some are a different thread and I've mixed them up. > >Is it possible that some are UNF and some are other (BSF or Whitworth)? If that isn't the case I can run a die down the posts - it appears to be 8-32, can someone conform this for me before I ruin my instruments? > >Thanks as alweays for all the help & advice as I bring this thing back to life. > >Steve > >1969 TR6 CC25805 >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as ggelhar at earthlink.net > >http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Jun 6 12:38:32 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 11:38:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 4x4 tr-3 Message-ID: <759981.93107.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Don't know about others but my present project was in much worst shape than the 3 they turned into a 4x4. LOL oh well whatever! at least this tr-3 will get the triumph name out to those who probably have no idea what a triumph was . gary n From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Jun 6 12:43:36 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 11:43:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] idle and running troubles Message-ID: <401607.20585.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just a note here for some possible ideas. I'm having trouble getting my tr-6 to run right since overhaul. At present won't idle and seems to run well without miss at high rpm's. I finally took it to local mechanic familiar with old cars's and zenith carbs. fuel pump is putting out around 2 lbs. valves set ok............no vacum leaks. However one piston on carbs doesn't raise as high as other.........(engine off). any quick and dirty ideas? gary n. From twr at frii.com Sat Jun 6 17:41:57 2009 From: twr at frii.com (todd Richmond) Date: Sat, 06 Jun 2009 17:41:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal Message-ID: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> Hi, My son and I are scratching our heads trying to figure out how to get the double valve springs removed off a TR3. I've got a spring compression tool, and I've been able to compress the outer spring. At that point I was expecting to be able to release the cotter pieces and/or the collar, but it doesn't seem to be quite that easy. I would appreciate any help on how to do this. Google has failed me, and I'm a real newbie at this part. :) Thanks, Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Jun 6 18:22:47 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 06 Jun 2009 19:22:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <20090607002300.E195E1879A7@autox.team.net> The compressor should push down on the retainer which will compress both springs. You may need to give it a rap with a hammer (rubber) to break it loose from the collar pieces. When compressed enough you should be able to remove each half of the retaining collar, then release the pressure on the springs. Pictures here: http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0182.JPG http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0183.JPG They are near the bottom of this page: http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/2007-8RebuildP2.htm - Tony Drews At 06:41 PM 6/6/2009, todd Richmond wrote: >Hi, > >My son and I are scratching our heads trying to figure out how to get >the >double valve springs removed off a TR3. > >I've got a spring compression tool, and I've been able to compress the >outer spring. At that point I was expecting to be able to release the >cotter >pieces and/or the collar, but it doesn't seem to be quite that easy. > >I would appreciate any help on how to do this. Google has failed me, >and >I'm a real newbie at this part. :) > >Thanks, > >Todd Richmond >Fort Collins, Colorado >1959 TR3A TS54425L >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From twr at frii.com Sat Jun 6 21:31:01 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Sat, 06 Jun 2009 21:31:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <20090607005550.1F5C1E0456@ma106.mailarmory.com> References: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090607005550.1F5C1E0456@ma106.mailarmory.com> Message-ID: <1244345461.3517.38.camel@localhost.localdomain> Excellent! That worked perfectly. I had tried that before but I was missing the "rap with a hammer" part. This engine is in pretty rough shape, and often needs lots of coersion. Thanks Tony! Speaking of coersion, any recommendations on how to remove a very stuck valve? Thanks! Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L On Sat, 2009-06-06 at 19:22 -0500, Tony Drews wrote: > The compressor should push down on the retainer which will compress > both springs. You may need to give it a rap with a hammer (rubber) > to break it loose from the collar pieces. When compressed enough you > should be able to remove each half of the retaining collar, then > release the pressure on the springs. > > Pictures here: > http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0182.JPG > http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/DSCN0183.JPG > > They are near the bottom of this page: > http://www.tonydrews.com/2007-8Rebuild/2007-8RebuildP2.htm > > - Tony Drews > > At 06:41 PM 6/6/2009, todd Richmond wrote: > >Hi, > > > >My son and I are scratching our heads trying to figure out how to get > >the > >double valve springs removed off a TR3. > > > >I've got a spring compression tool, and I've been able to compress the > >outer spring. At that point I was expecting to be able to release the > >cotter > >pieces and/or the collar, but it doesn't seem to be quite that easy. > > > >I would appreciate any help on how to do this. Google has failed me, > >and > >I'm a real newbie at this part. :) > > > >Thanks, > > > >Todd Richmond > >Fort Collins, Colorado > >1959 TR3A TS54425L > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > >http://www.vtr.org > > > > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > > > >http://www.team.net/archive From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Sat Jun 6 21:31:48 2009 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Sat, 06 Jun 2009 23:31:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] idle and running troubles In-Reply-To: <401607.20585.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <401607.20585.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20090606232953.042f2bd8@216.7.163.243> Gary, Did you get new needles for the carbs during your overhaul? I bought a carb rebuild kit from Moss, and the needles were both different sizes, and way to fat... I couldnt idle without choke and it ran rough when they were in. Might want to put your old needles back in if you have them (and if you replaced them). - Aldwyn At 02:43 PM 6/6/2009, Gary Nafziger wrote: >Just a note here for some possible ideas. I'm having trouble getting my tr-6 >to run right since overhaul. At present won't idle and seems to run well >without miss at high rpm's. I finally took it to local mechanic familiar with >old cars's and zenith carbs. fuel pump is putting out around 2 lbs. valves >set ok............no vacum leaks. However one piston on carbs doesn't raise >as high as other.........(engine off). any quick and dirty ideas? > >gary n. >_ From patton at suscom-maine.net Sat Jun 6 21:53:04 2009 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton) Date: Sat, 06 Jun 2009 23:53:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <4A2B39A0.50100@suscom-maine.net> Todd, The fastest way is to lay the head on a bench, put a thin block of wood (like a scrap of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood) in the combustion chamber against the valve head. Find a deep socket with the same outside diameter as the spring cap. Place the socket on the spring cap hit it with a hammer and the keepers will pop out. You can do the entire head in about three minutes. The reverse doesn't work for reassembly, you will need your spring compressor. Rick Patton pattonmachine.com 75 TR6sci 74 TVR 2500M todd Richmond wrote: > Hi, > > My son and I are scratching our heads trying to figure out how to get > the > double valve springs removed off a TR3. > > I've got a spring compression tool, and I've been able to compress the > outer spring. At that point I was expecting to be able to release the > cotter > pieces and/or the collar, but it doesn't seem to be quite that easy. > > I would appreciate any help on how to do this. Google has failed me, > and > I'm a real newbie at this part. :) > > Thanks, > > Todd Richmond > Fort Collins, Colorado > 1959 TR3A TS54425L From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Jun 6 22:07:15 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 06 Jun 2009 23:07:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <1244345461.3517.38.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090607005550.1F5C1E0456@ma106.mailarmory.com> <1244345461.3517.38.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <20090607040730.03A8D187A42@autox.team.net> From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 6 22:22:24 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 21:22:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <1244345461.3517.38.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <20090607042223121.MRST2045@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> > Speaking of coersion, any recommendations on how to remove a > very stuck valve? Assuming you mean the keepers are stuck, set the head down on the bench with the combustion chamber down and a big nut under the valve head. Short length of 3/4" water pipe, and a 2 or 3 smart raps with a BFH will usually not just loosen the keepers but pop them out entirely. Randall From twr at frii.com Sat Jun 6 22:25:08 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Sat, 06 Jun 2009 22:25:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <20090607040725.6D044E0423@ma101.mailarmory.com> References: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090607005550.1F5C1E0456@ma106.mailarmory.com> <1244345461.3517.38.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090607040725.6D044E0423@ma101.mailarmory.com> Message-ID: <1244348708.3517.43.camel@localhost.localdomain> Yes, it is totally stuck. I will try your suggestions. Maybe I can tap it back down and it will free up a bit so that I can grind it down a bit. The only other thing I can think of is to use a punch. Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L On Sat, 2009-06-06 at 23:07 -0500, Tony Drews wrote: > Is it stuck like it totally won't move in the guide? Or, does it come > out a ways and then get stuck? If it's the latter, the end has > mushroomed. Assuming you don't want to re-use the valve (hint, you > DON'T want to re-use the valve!), you could push it back in to place > and grind around a bit on the tip where the rocker arm rested. I > would grind on the sides of the protruding end of the valve - it > shouldn't take much. > > If it's totally stuck, I don't have a great suggestion. Maybe Kroil / > BP Blaster / WD-40, let it sit for a while, try some heat and lightly > tap with a hammer, but that's just a guess. > > - Tony Drews > > At 10:31 PM 6/6/2009, Todd Richmond wrote: > > > > > Excellent! That worked perfectly. I had tried that before but I > > was missing the "rap with > > a hammer" part. This engine is in pretty rough shape, and often > > needs lots of coersion. > > Thanks Tony! > > > > Speaking of coersion, any recommendations on how to remove a very > > stuck valve? > > > > Thanks! > > > > Todd Richmond > > Fort Collins, Colorado > > 1959 TR3A TS54425L From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sun Jun 7 09:10:41 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 11:10:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thread size for TR6 instruments? References: <61164.1244306909549.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <2176E2AD1A4C44A68DCF6D0258274C47@D1TG6Y71> My guess is that the threads are BA (British Association). A very popular thread form for instrument makers in the UK. If a 4mm die will run down the thread, than I'd guess it is 4BA (0.1417" dia and 38.5 TPI - 4mm is 0.1575" dia and a thread pitch of 0.7mm will give 36.3 TPI ... pretty close!). McMaster carries BA stuff I believe, but probably not the knurled nuts. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Gelhar" To: "Steve Smith" ; Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2009 12:48 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Thread size for TR6 instruments? > Hi Steve, > > I have just tested some knurled instrument nuts with my tap set. I think > you will find those threads to be M4 x .7, one of the places there are > metric threads on our triumphs. > > Greg Gelhar > 1973 TR6 > 1980 TR8 > Osseo, MN > > -----Original Message----- >>From: Steve Smith >>Sent: Jun 6, 2009 10:06 AM >>To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>Subject: [TR] Thread size for TR6 instruments? >> >>Hi all >> >>I hit a sped bump putting my gauges back in my car this morning. About >>half of the knurled nuts won't thread back on so either they were cross >>threaded previously (or I just cross threaded them!) or some are a >>different thread and I've mixed them up. >> >>Is it possible that some are UNF and some are other (BSF or Whitworth)? >>If that isn't the case I can run a die down the posts - it appears to be >>8-32, can someone conform this for me before I ruin my instruments? >> >>Thanks as alweays for all the help & advice as I bring this thing back to >>life. >> >>Steve >> >>1969 TR6 CC25805 From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Jun 7 09:52:18 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 10:52:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Its got to go... Message-ID: <37D61703ADC0469693F1CA999C93A796@trigeni.com> Listers: I am selling my 2000 Jag XK8 convertible. It is in exceptionally clean condition with fewer than 61,000 miles on it. Contact me off-list if you have any interest in it. Michael Marr 1960 TR3A 2000 Jag XK8 Plainfield, IL From dkspence at telus.net Sun Jun 7 12:44:22 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 12:44:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] 4x4 TR3 want to do your own? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6733AA77-8461-4F0C-A1E2-05EA8982FF24@telus.net> If you are inspired to "do one yourself" here's a link to a starter car. NFI etc. http://tinyurl.com/ms252y From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 7 12:44:44 2009 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 13:44:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 for sale Message-ID: Triumphistae- In case any listers are looking to add to their TR3 inventory, I have reluctantly listed mine on EBay [#190313097476] to raise funds to restore a 12,444 mile TR4. Contact me off list if you have any questions. Bob Streepy From bjzwissler at gmail.com Sun Jun 7 13:07:52 2009 From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler) Date: Sun, 07 Jun 2009 15:07:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] idle and running troubles Message-ID: <4A2C1008.1020907@gmail.com> Gary, Not sure that the piston failing to travel all the up would cause idle problems. The pistons are usually sitting at the bottom of their travel during idling. Assuming the float and jets are set about right, I'd check for an air leak that's letting air in without going through the carbs. I had a similar problem and it was the PCV system letting too much air in. Could also be an intake leak or any gasket/seal that has manifold vacuum applied. Ben..... Ben Zwissler bjzwissler at gmail.com Columbus, IN 1966 Triumph TR4A 1973 MG Midget 1980 Triumph TR8 2007 Mazda RX8 2002 Yamaha FZ1 2003 Honda ST1300 Date: Sat, 6 Jun 2009 11:43:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Nafziger Subject: [TR] idle and running troubles To:triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID:<401607.20585.qm at web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Just a note here for some possible ideas. I'm having trouble getting my tr-6 to run right since overhaul. At present won't idle and seems to run well without miss at high rpm's. I finally took it to local mechanic familiar with old cars's and zenith carbs. fuel pump is putting out around 2 lbs. valves set ok............no vacum leaks. However one piston on carbs doesn't raise as high as other.........(engine off). any quick and dirty ideas? gary n. From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Jun 7 17:17:01 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 07 Jun 2009 16:17:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Twisted Windscreen Stanchion Message-ID: <4A2C4A6D.5060106@comcast.net> I installed the windscreen on my TR3 for the first time today. The front end of the drivers side stanchion sticks out about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from the mount. I can push it in and latch the Dzus fastener but it makes me a little nervous since it is torquing the drivers side of the windscreen frame. The windscreen also doesn't quite sit even in height above the scuttle from the passenger side to the drivers side. The Drivers side sits about 3/8 of an inch higher. The car didn't appear to ever have any scuttle related damage when I stripped it down and the wood support pieces fit well from the underside. Is this a common problem? What's the best way to correct for it? Thanks, Mike TS11544L From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Jun 7 17:31:15 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 18:31:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] 4x4 TR3 want to do your own? In-Reply-To: <6733AA77-8461-4F0C-A1E2-05EA8982FF24@telus.net> References: <6733AA77-8461-4F0C-A1E2-05EA8982FF24@telus.net> Message-ID: The owner said "There is no doubt when you see the modifications that the car was raced...". What modifications is he talking about? The numbers on the doors? Is he implying that the brakes have been modified? Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: dkspence at telus.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 12:44:22 -0600 > Subject: Re: [TR] 4x4 TR3 want to do your own? > > If you are inspired to "do one yourself" here's a link to a starter > car. NFI etc. > > http://tinyurl.com/ms252y > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Jun 7 17:37:17 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 19:37:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Twisted Windscreen Stanchion In-Reply-To: <4A2C4A6D.5060106@comcast.net> References: <4A2C4A6D.5060106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6E95C83784B9429DBE47B68002AA0282@DCH6RFC1> Assuming the scuttle is painted and you don't want to mess with it, I'd suggest getting your hands on another windscreen +/- stanchions to see if yours is indeed twisted. This happened to me and I got a second one which fit fine. They aren't hard to find - let me know if you need help. Another trick I tried last week when I fitted the windscreen on the newly painted car was to loosen the three screws connecting the stanchions to the windscreen so there was a little more flexibility in the pieces before tightening the Dzus's down. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Lang Sent: Sunday, June 07, 2009 7:17 PM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] Twisted Windscreen Stanchion I installed the windscreen on my TR3 for the first time today. The front end of the drivers side stanchion sticks out about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from the mount. I can push it in and latch the Dzus fastener but it makes me a little nervous since it is torquing the drivers side of the windscreen frame. The windscreen also doesn't quite sit even in height above the scuttle from the passenger side to the drivers side. The Drivers side sits about 3/8 of an inch higher. The car didn't appear to ever have any scuttle related damage when I stripped it down and the wood support pieces fit well from the underside. Is this a common problem? What's the best way to correct for it? Thanks, Mike TS11544L This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Jun 7 17:45:28 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 19:45:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Radiator temperature In-Reply-To: <4A2C4A6D.5060106@comcast.net> References: <4A2C4A6D.5060106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2ABCA667CB37497B871CF3E7C96AF6B8@DCH6RFC1> List: I recently got an infra-red thermometer as my TR3 was tending to overheat and I had reason to believe it had an original radiator. The good news was the gauge was reading correctly. With the engine idling and the electric fan on, it was 195 degrees at the top of the radiator and the same on the gauge. But what delta should one expect from top to bottom of the radiator? According to my thermometer, it was 100 degrees cooler at the bottom, which I thought was an excessive gradient. Radiator gummed up at the bottom or an incredibly effective electric fan? Andrew Uprichard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 7 18:32:12 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 17:32:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator temperature In-Reply-To: <2ABCA667CB37497B871CF3E7C96AF6B8@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <20090608003212809.FDZO28090@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > Radiator gummed up at the bottom or an incredibly effective > electric fan? First question, what temperature does your thermostat actually open? The high gradient would seem to indicate lack of flow through the radiator for some reason; which could be anything from thermostat closed to radiator clogged to water pump ineffective. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 7 18:36:51 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 17:36:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Twisted Windscreen Stanchion In-Reply-To: <4A2C4A6D.5060106@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090608003651602.ECFA14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > I installed the windscreen on my TR3 for the first time > today. The front end of the drivers side stanchion sticks out > about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from the mount. Mine have pretty much all been like that; on the project TR3 they stick out on both sides. I haven't worried about it; and so far the only windshield that ever broke for me was on the car where I didn't install the buffer at the rear view mirror. Sorry, can't help with the other problem. Mine seem fairly even, but I've never bothered to measure. I figure the reason for that great big rubber gasket is because there was a lot of variation in scuttle shape even when new. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Jun 7 18:41:37 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 17:41:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator temperature In-Reply-To: <2ABCA667CB37497B871CF3E7C96AF6B8@DCH6RFC1> References: <4A2C4A6D.5060106@comcast.net> <2ABCA667CB37497B871CF3E7C96AF6B8@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906071741p195d456clbefdb1a793af3e37@mail.gmail.com> On Sun, Jun 7, 2009 at 4:45 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > ...But what delta should one expect from top to bottom > of the radiator? According to my thermometer, it was 100 degrees cooler at > the bottom, which I thought was an excessive gradient. I agree (assuming the outside temperature wasn't -40). I see about a 20 degree drop (185 vs 165) on my '59 under similar circumstances. Geo From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Jun 7 20:14:05 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 07 Jun 2009 19:14:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Twisted Windscreen Stanchion In-Reply-To: <20090608003651602.ECFA14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> References: <20090608003651602.ECFA14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <4A2C73ED.9090907@comcast.net> I pulled it apart again and carefully examined all of the pieces. The stanchion plate on the drivers side was interfering with the notched clearance area that it is supposed to nest in. This pivoted the front of the stanchion out. I filed a couple of the holes in the plate a little oblong and now it's much better. It still sticks out a little but not so much that I am afraid of breaking the windscreen. When looking at the height difference from left to right, I also wonder if this isn't just part of being a coach works built body. There sure is a lot of opportunities for leaks in the sandwich of stanchion, stanchion pate, and windscreen frame. I am tempted to put a thin bead of silicone sealer in there to seal them up. I guess that's what I get for living in Oregon. Thanks, Mike Randall wrote: >> I installed the windscreen on my TR3 for the first time >> today. The front end of the drivers side stanchion sticks out >> about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch from the mount. >> > > Mine have pretty much all been like that; on the project TR3 they stick out > on both sides. I haven't worried about it; and so far the only windshield > that ever broke for me was on the car where I didn't install the buffer at > the rear view mirror. > > Sorry, can't help with the other problem. Mine seem fairly even, but I've > never bothered to measure. I figure the reason for that great big rubber > gasket is because there was a lot of variation in scuttle shape even when > new. > > Randall From Harrymague at aol.com Sun Jun 7 19:52:54 2009 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 21:52:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Problem with Triumph List Message-ID: Is there a problem with the triumph list????? I have stopped getting any triumph emails. Thanks Harry Mague **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377042x1201454362/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Jun 7 21:41:15 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 7 Jun 2009 23:41:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Glass installation Message-ID: I am also working with my TR3's windshield For some reason, I thought I had read on this list that it might be best if a proffesional glass shop install ones Windshield. Is this really a tricky job? I mean, I'll get the glazing, brackets, etc. I mean how tricky can windshield glass-installation-in-a-frame be? Can I do this myself? Thanks, Paul From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Jun 7 23:52:14 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 07 Jun 2009 22:52:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Glass installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A2CA70E.3090805@comcast.net> Hi Paul, I just installed the glass in mine this afternoon. It is the first time that I have ever done it, but it went very smoothly. Based on my web research, the first thing that I did was to trial fit the glass in the frame without the glazing strip. I had to bend the frame a little (1/32") in a couple of spots to match the curve of the glass. I have heard that forcing it into an improperly curved frame can cause it to crack. Installing the glass was a family project at the kitchen table. It took all four of us. My wife held one and of the top part of the frame and my son held the other end. It was positioned up side down so that the glass could be slide down into it. My daughter centered the glazing strip as I slid the glass into the frame. My wife and son pushed down on the glass while I positioned the bottom portion of the frame and screwed it in place. I used the rubber glazing strip that can be purchased from TRF. Beware when you install the bottom T shaped seal strip that goes between the windscreen frame and the scuttle. It is slightly angled. Based on common sense, I angled it towards the front of the vehicle. This is wrong. When I installed the windscreen on the body, there was a gap between the seal and the scuttle. It should be angled back towards the passenger compartment so that it presses down against the scuttle. In fact, the second time I was installing it, I found the word "Rear" molded into one side of it. Beware of the stanchion screw lengths. I bought new screws from TRF, but found the middle screws were too long. I had to file them down shorter so that they wouldn't bottom against the glass and crack it. I hope all of this information helps. Good luck! Mike dorpaul wrote: > I am also working with my TR3's windshield > > For some reason, I thought I had read on this list that it might be best if a > proffesional glass shop install ones Windshield. Is this really a tricky > job? > > I mean, I'll get the glazing, brackets, etc. I mean how tricky can windshield > glass-installation-in-a-frame be? Can I do this myself? > > Thanks, Paul From sportycars at britishcarweek.org Mon Jun 8 04:27:31 2009 From: sportycars at britishcarweek.org (sportycars at britishcarweek.org) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 06:27:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Any Listers in Two Rivers Wisconsin? Message-ID: <02989B7B209A476987431C32DB5F7640@grandb59e83be9> Hello, I'm interested in a Triumph in the Two Rivers, Wisconsin area, and would like to know if there are any listers in that area that might be able to lend me their eyes for a vehicle check. I mostly need to verify that it is what it is supposed to be according to sellers description..... You can contact me off list. Thanks! Scott Helms From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Mon Jun 8 10:57:19 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 12:57:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 CWP on eBay (NFI) References: <9de671280906080849h50bb24b3x4d0115662cb8eab4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4762407C9E974AC9AF8FCA8767EB83A2@D1TG6Y71> A while ago, someone had asked about getting a 3.45:1 CWP for a US based TR6 to repace the 3.7 standard over here. I noticed that there is a used one on eBay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140325568326&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123 NFI Tony Gordon From tr250driver at gmail.com Mon Jun 8 12:19:43 2009 From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 14:19:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: <9de671280906081119w3e4c99e8m47aadd85151e1a0a@mail.gmail.com> Testing Gmail to see what happens. Darrell From twr at frii.com Mon Jun 8 12:39:10 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Mon, 08 Jun 2009 12:39:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <1244348708.3517.43.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090607005550.1F5C1E0456@ma106.mailarmory.com> <1244345461.3517.38.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090607040725.6D044E0423@ma101.mailarmory.com> <1244348708.3517.43.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <1244486350.3517.51.camel@localhost.localdomain> Thanks to everyone who helped me get my valve springs off and my stuck valve removed. I'll be taking the head to the shop tomorrow. My next question is in regard to the valve springs themselves. They look okay, but how can you tell if they need to be replaced? I don't really know the history of the car, but it is obvious that the engine has been rebuilt at least once (by virtue of the fact that the intake valves for cylinders 1-3 had 3 springs each, and 2 spring each for the exhaust valves, while for cylinder 4 the opposite was true!). Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 8 13:03:45 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 12:03:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <1244486350.3517.51.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain><20090607005550.1F5C1E0456@ma106.mailarmory.com><1244345461.3517.38.camel@localhost.localdomain><20090607040725.6D044E0423@ma101.mailarmory.com><1244348708.3517.43.camel@localhost.localdomain> <1244486350.3517.51.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <369F4117EC724D99AF82183AAF2D0CFE@jdnet.deere.com> > My next question is in regard to the valve springs themselves. They > look okay, > but how can you tell if they need to be replaced? Only way to be certain is check how much force it takes to compress them to installed length. One way to do this is with a bathroom scale, a drill press and a ruler (if you happen to have those things available and trust your bathroom scale to be accurate). Or the shop doing the head should have the equipment handy. Or, just replace them. They get tired with age even if the engine hasn't been run. PS, I assume you know that the triple springs belong on the exhaust along with the pedestals; and that most replacement sets only have two springs per valve. -- Randall From tr250driver at gmail.com Mon Jun 8 13:13:33 2009 From: tr250driver at gmail.com (darrell floyd) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 15:13:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Problem with Triumph List In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9de671280906081213j24d469dehc14ddacc6ad5c1a3@mail.gmail.com> Yes Harry, I am having problems with the List Too. It seems to be related to Listers with AOL email. I am trying to get back with gmail. Darrell On Sun, Jun 7, 2009 at 9:52 PM, wrote: > Is there a problem with the triumph list????? I have stopped getting any > triumph emails. Thanks > Harry Mague > **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy > Steps! > ( > http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377042x1201454362/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun > eExcfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr250driver at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From agraham at execulink.com Mon Jun 8 13:23:11 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Mon, 08 Jun 2009 15:23:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Nylon lube Message-ID: <200906081922.n58JMr6R022374@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello Listers: Asking about a lube for nylon "bearings" that will not harden and crud up the works. Reassembling the foot throttle cross shaft on my TR2 and wanted something to put around the nylon button bearing at each end of the shaft that would keep things moving smoothly with a bit of lubrication. Realize that nylon bearings are not supposed to need too much goop, but thought a little wouldn't hurt. Thanks for any help you can provide. Angelo Graham From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jun 8 17:27:40 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 19:27:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Nylon lube In-Reply-To: <200906081922.n58JMr6R022374@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200906081922.n58JMr6R022374@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <200906081927.40695.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 08 June 2009 03:23:11 pm Angelo Graham wrote: > Hello Listers: > Asking about a lube for nylon "bearings" that will not harden and > crud up the works. Reassembling the foot throttle cross shaft on my > TR2 and wanted something to put around the nylon button bearing at > each end of the shaft that would keep things moving smoothly with a > bit of lubrication. Realize that nylon bearings are not supposed to > need too much goop, but thought a little wouldn't hurt. > Thanks for any help you can provide. > > Angelo Graham Angelo, I just finished installing the front and rear suspensions on my TR6 project and I used silicone grease for all the bushings. It will not only lube but keep the water out. Bob From dkspence at telus.net Mon Jun 8 18:44:09 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 18:44:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] ] 4x4 TR3 want to do your own? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rich I haven't seen the car but apparently the front apron has been modified as have the inner fenders so that the front fenders can be removed, inner and outer, by removing only two bolts each. Call him and ask if you're interested. On 8-Jun-09, at 4:27 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] 4x4 TR3 want to do your own? > > > The owner said "There is no doubt when you see the modifications > that the car > was raced...". > > > > What modifications is he talking about? > > The numbers on the doors? > > Is he implying that the brakes have been modified? > > > > Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA From twr at frii.com Mon Jun 8 20:06:43 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Mon, 08 Jun 2009 20:06:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] connection rod bearings Message-ID: <1244513203.3517.57.camel@localhost.localdomain> What is the thickness of the standard size big end connecting rod bearings? The bearings I have now measure about 0.0746" and I'm trying to figure out what size they were. I'm betting they are over- sized since this engine seems to have been rebuilt at least once. Thanks, Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L From twr at frii.com Mon Jun 8 20:12:54 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Mon, 08 Jun 2009 20:12:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <369F4117EC724D99AF82183AAF2D0CFE@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1244331717.3517.33.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090607005550.1F5C1E0456@ma106.mailarmory.com> <1244345461.3517.38.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090607040725.6D044E0423@ma101.mailarmory.com> <1244348708.3517.43.camel@localhost.localdomain> <1244486350.3517.51.camel@localhost.localdomain> <369F4117EC724D99AF82183AAF2D0CFE@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1244513574.3517.63.camel@localhost.localdomain> Thanks Randall. Is there somewhere I can look up how many pounds pressure relates to how much compression movement? >PS, I assume you know that the triple springs belong >on the exhaust along with the pedestals; and that most >replacement sets only have two springs per valve. Yes. I actually said that backwards (3 exhaust valves had the 3 springs, but one set was backwards). In any case, it's a sure sign that the engine has been mucked with before. :) Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L On Mon, 2009-06-08 at 12:03 -0700, Randall wrote: > > My next question is in regard to the valve springs themselves. They > > look okay, > > but how can you tell if they need to be replaced? > > Only way to be certain is check how much force it takes to compress them to > installed length. One way to do this is with a bathroom scale, a drill > press and a ruler (if you happen to have those things available and trust > your bathroom scale to be accurate). Or the shop doing the head should have > the equipment handy. > > Or, just replace them. They get tired with age even if the engine hasn't > been run. > > PS, I assume you know that the triple springs belong on the exhaust along > with the pedestals; and that most replacement sets only have two springs per > valve. > > -- Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon Jun 8 20:39:31 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 21:39:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] ] 4x4 TR3 want to do your own? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: just curious... Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: dkspence at telus.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 18:44:09 -0600 > Subject: [TR] ] 4x4 TR3 want to do your own? > > Rich > I haven't seen the car but apparently the front apron has been > modified as have the inner fenders so that the front fenders can be > removed, inner and outer, by removing only two bolts each. Call him > and ask if you're interested. > > > > On 8-Jun-09, at 4:27 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > > Subject: Re: [TR] 4x4 TR3 want to do your own? > > > > > > The owner said "There is no doubt when you see the modifications > > that the car > > was raced...". > > > > > > > > What modifications is he talking about? > > > > The numbers on the doors? > > > > Is he implying that the brakes have been modified? > > > > > > > > Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 8 20:57:19 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 22:57:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] my new windshield is too thin! Message-ID: Today, while removing my old windshield I made a shocking discovery! My new windshield, which I ordered from ProSource Glass, is only 3/16ths" thick. However, the original windshield was 1/4" thick. It's been several years since this windshield was ordered. What can I do? I also measured the old, original rubber encasing for the glass (glazing?). It is 1/16" thick on each side. I suppose the new one from Moss is the same thickness as the original. Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Jun 8 21:19:37 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 23:19:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Let loose the flood... References: <943732.18929.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <116AB2ADFA6C42E9AF6CB2C281C6183B@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: So after many years of hearing about gas in the sump, I seem to be experiencing the joys myself. I filled my TR6's tank before putting it away last week. I fired it up today and noticed a definite want of willingness to stay running at idle. Headed down the road. bitching about being a quarter tank down after only 10 miles from fillup. After a km or so the engine stalled out after running very rough at idle kept only going with foot on gas. I noticed the oil pressure was low. Just could not restart the machine, so came back home on a float. (Thank heavens for CAA.) This evening I filled the dashpots and the car fired right up. Still lousy idle, but seemingly better than today. Still had rotten oil pressure (normally 75-100 cold). On a strange whim I checked the oil level expecting to find no oil. Instead the stick measured 2 inches over full ! Seemingly oil or gas on top and a level line about half way up. I installed a set of triple strombergs last season, but did not get around to putting in the fuel filter. So, I assume that some grit left a carb bowl leaking. I recall that, with a full tank, the TR6 has the carbs below the fuel level. I think I'm a bit lucky not to have blown myself to bits. I was about 100 feet from the highway entrance. At 3000 rpm with a sump massively overfilled with gas, the conditions under the bonnet would have been quite close to a fuel-air bomb. I guess it's safer than it sounds as this must have been quite a common occurance at one time. Is there a process here? Just drain the sump and re-fill? Can I just pop the bowls off and, catching the needle valves, hope the grit will wash out with some pump levering? Cheers, Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net Mon Jun 8 21:30:01 2009 From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 23:30:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Let loose the flood... In-Reply-To: References: <943732.18929.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><116AB2ADFA6C42E9AF6CB2C281C6183B@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1AA8F902445D4E40AB224FA5D3854FDB@TomandWendyPC> When this happened to me, the culprit was a torn diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump which allowed the gas to drain directly into the engine. Simple draining and replacing the oil and filter were all that were needed to get my oil pressure back, and I replaced the pump with an electric one to avoid a repeat performance. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" To: Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 11:19 PM Subject: [TR] Let loose the flood... > So after many years of hearing about gas in the sump, I seem to be > experiencing the joys myself. > > I filled my TR6's tank before putting it away last week. I fired it up > today > and noticed a definite want of willingness to stay running at idle. Headed > down the road. bitching about being a quarter tank down after only 10 > miles > from fillup. After a km or so the engine stalled out after running very > rough > at idle kept only going with foot on gas. I noticed the oil pressure was > low. > Just could not restart the machine, so came back home on a float. (Thank > heavens for CAA.) > > This evening I filled the dashpots and the car fired right up. Still lousy > idle, but seemingly better than today. Still had rotten oil pressure > (normally > 75-100 cold). On a strange whim I checked the oil level expecting to find > no > oil. Instead the stick measured 2 inches over full ! Seemingly oil or gas > on > top and a level line about half way up. > > I installed a set of triple strombergs last season, but did not get around > to > putting in the fuel filter. So, I assume that some grit left a carb bowl > leaking. I recall that, with a full tank, the TR6 has the carbs below the > fuel > level. I think I'm a bit lucky not to have blown myself to bits. I was > about > 100 feet from the highway entrance. At 3000 rpm with a sump massively > overfilled with gas, the conditions under the bonnet would have been quite > close to a fuel-air bomb. I guess it's safer than it sounds as this must > have > been quite a common occurance at one time. > > Is there a process here? Just drain the sump and re-fill? Can I just pop > the > bowls off and, catching the needle valves, hope the grit will wash out > with > some pump levering? > > Cheers, > > Mark Hooper > 1972 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 8 21:53:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 20:53:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <1244513574.3517.63.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <20090609035351629.QDF16114@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > Thanks Randall. Is there somewhere I can look up how many > pounds pressure relates to how much compression movement? The workshop manual has valve spring data. I've attached a scan of the page (which of course won't go through the list). If anyone else wants a copy, let me know. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of TR3 valve springs.pdf] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 8 22:11:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 21:11:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] connection rod bearings In-Reply-To: <1244513203.3517.57.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <20090609041151768.VDCE14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > What is the thickness of the standard size big end connecting > rod bearings? Crunching the numbers in the workshop manual, I get .072". Likely you are measuring a bit more because of the curvature. Crankpin diameter is kind of critical, I strongly suggest that you get the tool (micrometer) necessary to measure it accurately. That will tell you whether it needs to be ground or not, and what size bearings to buy. Enco has a 0-3" set on sale at the moment for $46; or just the 2-3" for $23. Bunch cheaper than a rebuild gone wrong because you didn't measure ! Also, a workshop manual is kind of essential. Tatty originals can sometimes be found for under $50 on eBay; CD copies (with a lot of other stuff as well) for under $20. There's even a rather shop-worn copy of the Haynes manual on there at the moment, with a Buy-It-Now of under $6 with shipping! Quite a deal, considering how much they sell for new. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380088279155 Randall From elangtr4 at aol.com Tue Jun 9 05:41:10 2009 From: elangtr4 at aol.com (elangtr4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 07:41:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] missing? Message-ID: <8CBB70E51CA1762-12F0-2A87@webmail-me10.sysops.aol.com> Listers, I'm on digest mode and usually receive one or two emails a day, but I haven't received anything since May 26? Anyone know what's up? Eric L. 71 TR6 From tr6parts at charter.net Tue Jun 9 06:13:30 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 8:13:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] missing? In-Reply-To: <8CBB70E51CA1762-12F0-2A87@webmail-me10.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20090609081330.N5TE0.4069062.root@mp19> AOL seems to be the problem for aol users. ---- elangtr4 at aol.com wrote: > Listers, > I'm on digest mode and usually receive one or two emails a day, but I haven't received anything since May 26? Anyone know what's up? > Eric L. > 71 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 9 06:36:27 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 08:36:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] missing? In-Reply-To: <8CBB70E51CA1762-12F0-2A87@webmail-me10.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CBB70E51CA1762-12F0-2A87@webmail-me10.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4A2E574B.4020201@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> AOL appears to be identifying all autox.team.net mail as spam and isn't allowing it. You mail appears on the List just fine so you're a valid List member. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org elangtr4 at aol.com wrote: > Listers, > I'm on digest mode and usually receive one or two emails a day, but I haven't received anything since May 26? Anyone know what's up? > Eric L. > 71 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > http://www.team.net/archive From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue Jun 9 08:25:15 2009 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 14:25:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <1213824887.2364931244557231386.JavaMail.root@sz0080a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2064335667.2367701244557515824.JavaMail.root@sz0080a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Todd, Given you have a head with issues -- not you, the car B ;^) -- I would strongly suggest that you replace the valve springs, as Randall suggested. If everything else about the head is to be gone over - maybe new seats, new valves, 3-angle grind etc. it would be an imprudent economy to reuse uncertain springs. A set is around $50, IIRC. Moss supplies triple or double exhaust valve spring sets. Maybe the bathroom scale assessment is feasible. I wouldn't rely on it personally, for the sake of $50. With the aggravation of taking the head off again to fix a broken spring, well let's just say I'd pay $50 to not have to do it again. Even if a spring doesn't break, lazy springs mean lazy valve closings. This is probably not a problem at idle, but at 3000 rpm those springs are closing each valve 25 times a second. Tired springs would be detrimental, wouldn't you think? Brian From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Jun 9 14:18:02 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 21:18:02 +0100 Subject: [TR] Sony DCR-SR33 Handycam References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74012929BE@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: <3AFE9AEC0EE147249732762F2B9433FA@John> Can anyone provide feedback on this camera (or similar model) with regard to windnoise? Planning on mounting it in the TTACD Stag on a special bracket at the base of the windshield. Reason: anticipate good forward view with minimal windnoise. Is this a vain hope? Jonmac From Harrymague at aol.com Tue Jun 9 14:24:17 2009 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 16:24:17 EDT Subject: [TR] AOL and Forum Problem Message-ID: Thnaks everyone for the info. I turned off the spam filter but I am still not receiving any emails. Does anybody know what I have to do with AOL to get them to let the emails thru???? Just in case, could somebody give the web address so I can check my subsription??? Thanks Harry Mague **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322977x1201367197/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd= JunestepsfooterNO62) From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jun 9 15:02:25 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 16:02:25 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] AOL and Forum Problem Message-ID: <1884671126.2087980.1244581345490.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net> From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Tue Jun 9 15:52:09 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 17:52:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Let loose the flood... In-Reply-To: <1AA8F902445D4E40AB224FA5D3854FDB@TomandWendyPC> Message-ID: Hi Tom: Hmmmm, something to check... I replaced the pump diaphragm a year or two back. Perhaps I did not do such a great job, or "shock!" the new parts are less well made than the originals that lasted 35 years. Cheers, Mark -----Original Message----- From: Tom Walling & Wendy Rose [mailto:pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net] Sent: June 8, 2009 11:30 PM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Let loose the flood... When this happened to me, the culprit was a torn diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump which allowed the gas to drain directly into the engine. Simple draining and replacing the oil and filter were all that were needed to get my oil pressure back, and I replaced the pump with an electric one to avoid a repeat performance. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" To: Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 11:19 PM Subject: [TR] Let loose the flood... > So after many years of hearing about gas in the sump, I seem to be > experiencing the joys myself. > > I filled my TR6's tank before putting it away last week. I fired it up > today > and noticed a definite want of willingness to stay running at idle. Headed > down the road. bitching about being a quarter tank down after only 10 > miles > from fillup. After a km or so the engine stalled out after running very > rough > at idle kept only going with foot on gas. I noticed the oil pressure was > low. > Just could not restart the machine, so came back home on a float. (Thank > heavens for CAA.) > > This evening I filled the dashpots and the car fired right up. Still lousy > idle, but seemingly better than today. Still had rotten oil pressure > (normally > 75-100 cold). On a strange whim I checked the oil level expecting to find > no > oil. Instead the stick measured 2 inches over full ! Seemingly oil or gas > on > top and a level line about half way up. > > I installed a set of triple strombergs last season, but did not get around > to > putting in the fuel filter. So, I assume that some grit left a carb bowl > leaking. I recall that, with a full tank, the TR6 has the carbs below the > fuel > level. I think I'm a bit lucky not to have blown myself to bits. I was > about > 100 feet from the highway entrance. At 3000 rpm with a sump massively > overfilled with gas, the conditions under the bonnet would have been quite > close to a fuel-air bomb. I guess it's safer than it sounds as this must > have > been quite a common occurance at one time. > > Is there a process here? Just drain the sump and re-fill? Can I just pop > the > bowls off and, catching the needle valves, hope the grit will wash out > with > some pump levering? > > Cheers, > > Mark Hooper > 1972 TR6 From twr at frii.com Tue Jun 9 17:42:04 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 17:42:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <20090609035351629.QDF16114@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> References: <20090609035351629.QDF16114@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <1244590924.3517.67.camel@localhost.localdomain> Thanks Randall. That was what I needed. I actually do have an old copy of the workshop manual, but I didn't realize that data was in there. Sorry. I'll try to do better due diligence next time. I'm still learning about all this stuff, but my 15 year-old son and I are having a ton of fun! Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L On Mon, 2009-06-08 at 20:53 -0700, Randall wrote: > > Thanks Randall. Is there somewhere I can look up how many > > pounds pressure relates to how much compression movement? > > The workshop manual has valve spring data. I've attached a scan of the page > (which of course won't go through the list). > > If anyone else wants a copy, let me know. > > Randall From twr at frii.com Tue Jun 9 18:00:12 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 18:00:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] connection rod bearings In-Reply-To: <20090609041151768.VDCE14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> References: <20090609041151768.VDCE14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <1244592013.3517.81.camel@localhost.localdomain> Randall, > Crunching the numbers in the workshop manual, I get .072". Likely you are > measuring a bit more because of the curvature. Hmmm. Okay, I have the manual, but I don't see how you did the calculation. I see crankpin diameter, bearing internal diameter, and bearing diametrical clearance, but not something that tells me the internal diameter of the rod (without the bearing in place). I seem to be missing something . . . ? > Crankpin diameter is kind of critical, I strongly suggest that you get the > tool (micrometer) necessary to measure it accurately. That will tell you > whether it needs to be ground or not, and what size bearings to buy. Enco > has a 0-3" set on sale at the moment for $46; or just the 2-3" for $23. > Bunch cheaper than a rebuild gone wrong because you didn't measure ! I have a micrometer set, but unfortunately the block and crankshaft are already at the machinists, so I couldn't take the measurement. I was trying to figure out what size bearing was used last time. I suspect they are already undersized. In any case, I took rods and the head and everything else over to the machinists today. So, with his help I should be able to get it all sorted out. Thanks again. Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L From twr at frii.com Tue Jun 9 18:05:55 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 18:05:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] connection rod bearings In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0906091450v17bd1e04lbd36a05803852da1@mail.gmail.com> References: <1244513203.3517.57.camel@localhost.localdomain> <20090609041151768.VDCE14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> <7bb181af0906091450v17bd1e04lbd36a05803852da1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <1244592355.3517.88.camel@localhost.localdomain> Wow, Geo. That's quite considerate of you to offer it to me. But don't trouble yourself over it. I already have a workshop manual -- I just need to learn how to use it! :b Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L On Tue, 2009-06-09 at 14:50 -0700, Geo Hahn wrote: > On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 9:11 PM, Randall wrote: > There's even a rather shop-worn copy of the Haynes manual on > there at the > moment, with a Buy-It-Now of under $6 with shipping! Quite a > deal, > considering how much they sell for new. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380088279155 > > Todd -- > > I saw Randall's post and bought the manual mentioned. It has been > suggested I should have waited until you had a chance to buy it. So, > to be fair, if you need a manual and wanted to buy this one I will > sell it to you for what it would have cost you thru eBay. > > Will take awhile to arrive as it is being shipped slow boat (media > mail) but please let me know right away if you want it. > > It is possible that I can get the seller to send it to you, else I > will absorb the cost of the remailing. > > Geo From twr at frii.com Tue Jun 9 18:12:27 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 18:12:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] Valve spring removal In-Reply-To: <2064335667.2367701244557515824.JavaMail.root@sz0080a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2064335667.2367701244557515824.JavaMail.root@sz0080a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1244592747.3517.96.camel@localhost.localdomain> Brian, Very good points. I've already bought new pistons, liners, valves, valve guides, timing chain, and a bunch of other stuff. It's likely I'll need a new camshaft before I'm done as well. I was just hoping there would be something I didn't HAVE to buy. :) I've taken everything over to the machine shop now, and have asked him to assess the springs, among other things. We'll just have to see. The good thing is that at least the crankshaft appears to be okay. Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L On Tue, 2009-06-09 at 14:25 +0000, banc8004 at comcast.net wrote: > Todd, > > > Given you have a head with issues -- not you, the car B ;^) -- I would > strongly suggest that you replace the valve springs, as Randall suggested. If > everything else about the head is to be gone over - maybe new seats, new > valves, 3-angle grind etc. it would be an imprudent economy to reuse uncertain > springs. A set is around $50, IIRC. Moss supplies triple or double exhaust > valve spring sets. > > > Maybe the bathroom scale assessment is feasible. I wouldn't rely on it > personally, for the sake of $50. With the aggravation of taking the head off > again to fix a broken spring, well let's just say I'd pay $50 to not have to > do it again. Even if a spring doesn't break, lazy springs mean lazy valve > closings. This is probably not a problem at idle, but at 3000 rpm those > springs are closing each valve 25 times a second. Tired springs would be > detrimental, wouldn't you think? > > > Brian > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as twr at frii.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tdskip at yahoo.com Tue Jun 9 20:24:06 2009 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 19:24:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR7 13 blade fan upgrade for TR4 Message-ID: <54277.35356.qm@web55607.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Hi guys - anyone know of a write up on how to do this conversion? Thanks Tom From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 9 20:32:55 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 09 Jun 2009 22:32:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] AOL and Forum Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A2F1B57.4070404@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Your subscription is fine given the fact that we're getting your posts. The problem is with AOL. It's not your personal spam folder. AOL has blocked the messages before they ever make it to the folder. Unless someone is willing to fight AOL to open up the mail pipeline, you're probably SOL. Next up..... I'll get banned for even saying that! LOL... Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org Harrymague at aol.com wrote: > Thnaks everyone for the info. I turned off the spam filter but I am still > not receiving any emails. Does anybody know what I have to do with AOL to > get them to let the emails thru???? Just in case, could somebody give the > web address so I can check my subsription??? > > Thanks > > Harry Mague > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322977x1201367197/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd= > JunestepsfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 9 21:26:04 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2009 20:26:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] connection rod bearings In-Reply-To: <1244592013.3517.81.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <20090610032604764.GEJO14139@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Hmmm. Okay, I have the manual, but I don't see how you did > the calculation. I see crankpin diameter, bearing internal > diameter, and bearing diametrical clearance, but not > something that tells me the internal diameter of the rod > (without the bearing in place). I seem to be missing > something . . . ? Page B1 (or page 85 of the Bentley), under "Big End", "Internal diameter of bearing housing" is listed as 2.2327" to 2.2335". "Bearing internal diameter" is 2.0882" to 2.0895". Subtract one from the other and divide by two (as there are two thicknesses of bearing insert). > I was trying to figure out what size > bearing was used last time. As a rule, undersize bearings have the undersize stamped on them. So if they were .010" undersize, I would expect to find 010 on the back of the bearing shell. Guess I just assumed that, if you had the tools, you would have measured the crank before turning it over to your machinist. But I don't suppose there is any reason you have to, if you trust him to never make a mistake. Even though the book says undersize bearings are available to .040" (and I think .030" are, in fact, available), I don't like to go beyond .020" (based on advice from people like Ken Gillanders and Greg Solow). So if a crank were ground to .020" and worn enough to need it again, I'd go looking for another one. Also, to me, having the crank ground is something that is done only if absolutely necessary. If it's within range and not too badly scored, I put it back as-is. Since I've pulled apart a fair number of engines that have clearly been worked on before, but have standard size cranks, I have to believe that is fairly common. Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jun 9 23:05:39 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 05:05:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] AOL and Forum Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To correct the AOL problem switch to Thunderbird and Firefox. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial _Storage_062009 From triumphstag at gmail.com Wed Jun 10 08:35:21 2009 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 07:35:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adding oil pressure gauge Message-ID: I'm adding an oil pressure gauge to the Stag. I'd like to know what material of flex pipe I should use as the pipe will run very close to the exhaust manifold. The oil pressure on the stag does not run much above 50-60 PSI Someone mentioned to use a steel tube to a point away from the manifold and then branch off using flex pipe. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks, Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Jun 10 10:13:02 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 12:13:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding oil pressure gauge Message-ID: <380-22009631016132930@M2W029.mail2web.com> I used copper tubing. When using copper (or steel like brake line for that matter) you must put strain relief coils in the line to prevent stress breakage from vibration, engine movement, etc. What I did was at the junction where the tube exits the sender, I have two 1 inch coils (like a spring), and at the gauge end I have the same. I've had it that way for over 20 years without incident! With steel braided of course, this would not apply The GT6 uses this coil relief in the clutch line from the master to the slave. There is no flexible hose, just a couple of coils in the hard line! Works great, and no danger of a hose failure or collapse. Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA Original Message: ----------------- From: sujit roy triumphstag at gmail.com Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 07:35:21 -0700 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Adding oil pressure gauge I'm adding an oil pressure gauge to the Stag. I'd like to know what material of flex pipe I should use as the pipe will run very close to the exhaust manifold. The oil pressure on the stag does not run much above 50-60 PSI Someone mentioned to use a steel tube to a point away from the manifold and then branch off using flex pipe. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks, Sujit -- Sujit Roy, Realtor Keller Williams Realty, Cupertino, CA (408) 839-8359 roysrealty.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as v6spitfireguy at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://link.mail2web.com/mail2web From jmitch at snet.net Wed Jun 10 10:16:37 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 12:16:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Adding oil pressure gauge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A2FDC65.1090306@snet.net> Try Ted Schumacher at TSI. I bought a braided stainless oil pressure line from him for my TR6. John Mitchell sujit roy wrote: > I'm adding an oil pressure gauge to the Stag. I'd like to know what material > of flex pipe I should use as the pipe will run very close to the exhaust > manifold. The oil pressure on the stag does not run much above 50-60 PSI > Someone mentioned to use a steel tube to a point away from the manifold and > then branch off using flex pipe. > Any suggestions welcome. > > > Thanks, Sujit From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jun 10 10:53:58 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 17:53:58 +0100 Subject: [TR] Adding oil pressure gauge References: <4A2FDC65.1090306@snet.net> Message-ID: <6B4F5E99518C4E739D74C9277DFF216B@John> Ted Schumacher and his wife have just spent two days of their vacation with us in the UK - and while they were here, I saw that braided line. Usual NFI caveat and I'm not on commission - but the line sure looks ideal for the purpose. I'd buy one from Ted if I needed it. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Mitchell" To: "sujit roy" Cc: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 5:16 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Adding oil pressure gauge > Try Ted Schumacher at TSI. I bought a braided stainless oil pressure line from him for my TR6. > John Mitchell > > sujit roy wrote: >> I'm adding an oil pressure gauge to the Stag. I'd like to know what material >> of flex pipe I should use as the pipe will run very close to the exhaust >> manifold. The oil pressure on the stag does not run much above 50-60 PSI >> Someone mentioned to use a steel tube to a point away from the manifold and >> then branch off using flex pipe. >> Any suggestions welcome. >> >> >> Thanks, Sujit > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From cole.jw at comcast.net Wed Jun 10 12:48:02 2009 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (cole.jw at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 18:48:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Trailing Arm Crossmembers R&R In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1844530000.2703071244659682182.JavaMail.root@sz0078a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Good day all, My 1972 TR6 has been sitting in the body shop since last October, waiting for corrections to paint work that was done incorrectly. While it was there, I decided it might be nice to have the crossmembers that the rear trailing arms are attached to, replaced with new ones. I bought the new parts and took them to the shop a couple of months ago. Finally, I get the estimate today, to remove and replace the crossmembers that I provided. The shop wants $1600 and says it will take all week to do. I have spent quite a bit of time under that car in the years that I have had it and it just didn't look that tough. Am I missing something or are they trying to float their entire business on my one job? They made no mention of lifting the body away from the frame in any way to complete the task. I own my own welder and have done frame work before. Should I just do it myself, or is it really a $1600 all-week job? Jerry From emanteno at gmail.com Wed Jun 10 13:01:39 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 14:01:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Trailing Arm Crossmembers R&R In-Reply-To: <1844530000.2703071244659682182.JavaMail.root@sz0078a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1844530000.2703071244659682182.JavaMail.root@sz0078a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <354a1780906101201r350039d9q18a2edfcc1076800@mail.gmail.com> On Wed, Jun 10, 2009 at 1:48 PM, wrote: > > Am I missing something or are they trying to float their entire business on > my one job? After having seen this done 2 or 3 times by guys in my club who have done this at home, I think you are this shop's stimulus package. Good luck, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From hdrider570 at att.net Wed Jun 10 13:19:29 2009 From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 12:19:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR7 13 blade fan upgrade for TR4 References: Message-ID: <594462CBE5064B7C874BACFFBD9090C5@Q> First off I would not use a TR7 fan as the mounting holes are too far apart to be easily converted. There is a red 13 blade TR6 fan that you can use or the Yellow TR4A fan which is readily available from the big three. I used a yellow fan on my TR4 and am very happy. The temp will just touch 190 stopped in traffic on a plus 90 degree day. The trick for me was the swapping of the stock TR4 fan extension for a TR3 one. The TR3 extension is about 3/4" shorter which allows the new plastic fan to be mounted in it's normal orientation. Without it you have to mount the fan backwards to have enough free space between the blades and the back of the radiator. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Jun 10 14:59:52 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 16:59:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: 1972 TR6 Trailing Arm Crossmembers R&R Message-ID: <286030BF074B47E8A3176FA165995262@Alan> >I would say its the time and labor factor. > The body has to come off the frame or you have to cut holes in the floor > above where your going to piece in the frame. You have to be able to weld the top. > Guys that do this at home already have the body off the frame. > It seems to be in line with what others would charge. > http://www.triumphworks.com/tr6_chassis_frame_tr6_chassis_fr.htm > > Cheers > Al > www.triumphowners.com/1195 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Wednesday, June 10, 2009 2:48 PM > Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Trailing Arm Crossmembers R&R > > >> Good day all, >> >> My 1972 TR6 has been sitting in the body shop since last October, waiting >> for corrections to paint work that was done incorrectly. While it was >> there, I decided it might be nice to have the crossmembers that the rear >> trailing arms are attached to, replaced with new ones. >> >> I bought the new parts and took them to the shop a couple of months ago. >> Finally, I get the estimate today, to remove and replace the crossmembers >> that I provided. The shop wants $1600 and says it will take all week to >> do. I have spent quite a bit of time under that car in the years that I >> have had it and it just didn't look that tough. Am I missing something or >> are they trying to float their entire business on my one job? They made >> no mention of lifting the body away from the frame in any way to complete >> the task. >> >> I own my own welder and have done frame work before. Should I just do it >> myself, or is it really a $1600 all-week job? >> >> Jerry From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Jun 10 17:39:12 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 16:39:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] compression differance Message-ID: <637353.10171.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just a question here for some thoughts from people with more experience. While in the shop getting tuned for the driving season after an overhaul my mechanic measured the compression on each cylinder (tr-6). He found two cylinders with 20lbs differance from the others. This is a newly overhauled engine which I assembled.......(which might be the problem? LOL) anyway.........i've only got around 300 miles on the engine. Could it be that the engine needs more time and miles to get the pistons/ rings to seat? Or is it valves? or is it more? lol thanks in advance! gary n. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jun 10 18:00:02 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 20:00:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] compression differance In-Reply-To: <637353.10171.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <637353.10171.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200906102000.02807.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 10 June 2009 07:39:12 pm Gary Nafziger wrote: > Just a question here for some thoughts from people with more experience. > While in the shop getting tuned for the driving season after an overhaul my > mechanic measured the compression on each cylinder (tr-6). He found two > cylinders with 20lbs differance from the others. This is a newly > overhauled engine which I assembled.......(which might be the problem? LOL) > anyway.........i've only got around 300 miles on the engine. Could it be > that the engine needs more time and miles to get the pistons/ rings to > seat? Or is it valves? or is it more? lol > > thanks in advance! > > gary n. Gary, Since I am a TR6 NEWBE (FNG for all you military types) I dont know if this applies to the 6, but on the 3 and 4 engines the manual says to re-torque the head after break in. Also re torque the rockers and then check the valves. Maybe it is the same for the 6? Just a guess but any knowledge you cull from this query will be used on my 6 engine rebuild which is currently in progress. Bob From ms6453 at optonline.net Wed Jun 10 18:20:46 2009 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 20:20:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] compression differance In-Reply-To: <637353.10171.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <637353.10171.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A304DDE.20806@optonline.net> Hey Gary, I think you have to give the motor more time for break-in. What oil are you using? Keep away from Synthetics during break-in. Re-check valve lash, timing & re-torque the head. Check the compression again at 700 miles. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 10 18:56:21 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 17:56:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] compression differance In-Reply-To: <637353.10171.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090611005621895.SORA16114@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > Could it be that the engine needs more time and > miles to get the pistons/ rings to seat? Or is it valves? One time-honored test is to squirt a small amount of oil into each cylinder just before checking compression on that cylinder. If the reading goes up a lot, the problem was rings. If it only rises a little, the problem is something else. Another is to pressurize each cylinder with compressed air and see where the air goes. How long rings take to seat depends a lot on how good the surfaces were to begin with ... certainly wouldn't hurt to put another 1000 miles on it and see what happens. Given all the fuss over ZDDP in oil, it also wouldn't hurt to check valve lift. Of course your mechanic should have already checked lash, before doing the compression check. Did he know the right lash for whatever cam you used? Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Jun 10 21:23:29 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 10 Jun 2009 23:23:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] compression differance In-Reply-To: <637353.10171.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A304071.7091.34751FB6@localhost> On 10 Jun 2009 at 16:39, Gary Nafziger wrote: > He found two cylinders with 20lbs differance from the others. You got some good answers but I'll throw out one other point usually made in discussions on this subject. A 20lb difference isn't really all that much. Also the observed compression depends on how well the valve clearances are set. I guess that's two points. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jeffn at msystech.com Wed Jun 10 22:35:17 2009 From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 00:35:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thanks to Tom at TRF In-Reply-To: <4A304071.7091.34751FB6@localhost> References: <4A304071.7091.34751FB6@localhost> Message-ID: <900B9382DE87491D8DFF0C460297CE9E@pistol> This is quick note to thank Tom who works at TRF. I bought the seal for outer cover for my 72 TR6 transsmision. During installation of the seal, I completety screwed up the seal by trying to press it in. I called TRF and asked for options. Since I was in a hurry to get the trans back together, I didn't want to send my cover to them, have them press in the seal, followed by having to send the two components back to me. Well, I spoke to Tom, at length, who volunteered to to find a used front transmission cover (they are no longer available as new), press in the seal and ship it to me. No, the cost was very reasonable. I recieved the part the next day. I called him to ask additional questions conercning the proper procedure to bolt on the front cover to the trans. He couldn't have been more friendly, patient and technicaly skilled. I thought I 'd share this positive experience since we sometime have a propensity only to bash the Big Three. Sure, there are times when they are out of stock of a part we need immediately and that feeling tends to dampen the positive. Thanks, Jeff Nathanson '76 TR6 From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jun 11 05:58:51 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 04:58:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] compression differance Message-ID: <340922.78017.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> thanks everyone again!! I'm enuf of a newbie to really start worrying about things and the listers always have good ideas and calm me down a lot!! this place is priceless. lol gary n. From CNicholls at geico.com Thu Jun 11 06:44:02 2009 From: CNicholls at geico.com (Nicholls, Craig) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 08:44:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] New soft top Message-ID: List, Well, I finally gave up being able to post to the list on my Verizon account. All my emails to the list end up posting on the site as blank, with none of my note intact. The issue with posting is not limited to AOL email folks, it is impacting others. I sent 2 emails to the webmaster but never received a response. My question, I finally caught the fantastic soft top that TRF is selling for the TR6 HP2220 at: http://www.zeni.net/trf/specials6.16/18.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050 . With a recent sale, discount and $50 back from Charles I was able to get it for $500. My plan is to have the soft top installed next winter. I contacted TRF and ask what would be the best way to store the top until the end of the year and their response was "I would not keep it in the box so the plastic windows don't get a permanent crease". No kidding. Currently, I have the top laid out like it would be if you were ready to fold it down. I left the tissue paper in between all the plastic window parts, and the window parts are all flat. Does the list think this will be ok, or do you think I should build something to lay it on so that it sits in the shape it would be when installed? Any advice is appreciated. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 ==================== This email/fax message is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution of this email/fax is prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please destroy all paper and electronic copies of the original message. From kinneyjr at msn.com Thu Jun 11 06:53:45 2009 From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 08:53:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Recommended Paint Shop near Baltimore, MD? Message-ID: I've got a factory hardtop that I want to restore and put on my 4A. Does any one in the Baltimore area work with a reputable paint and body shop? I am considering all of my options, including putting it in primer myself and taking it to Maaco, but I would like to see if there is a TR- or old car-friendly shop nearby so I can do a cost and time comparison. Thanks in advance, Jeremy Kinney _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009 From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Thu Jun 11 08:45:32 2009 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 07:45:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Balancing Message-ID: <632856.61893.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> List Members Are you able to find places to properly balance wire wheels in your area? I have searched all over Tulsa, OK and nobody in town has the correct hardware to properly mount the spline drive wheels on their spin balancers. I even spoke with Hunter (large mfg of balancing equipement) and they aren't familiar with what is needed. What are my options? Thanks, Chad in Tulsa From opposumking at verizon.net Thu Jun 11 09:29:21 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 11:29:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Balancing References: <632856.61893.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000501c9eaa9$64d0fc00$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> What about a motorcycle shop? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 11 09:35:22 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 08:35:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Balancing In-Reply-To: <632856.61893.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <632856.61893.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6EB5E622DE1A4C76A8E52324C9E14147@jdnet.deere.com> > I have searched all over Tulsa, OK and nobody in town has the > correct hardware to properly mount the spline drive wheels on their spin > balancers. Chad, you have the correct hardware ... it's called a spline adapter. Just take off one of your adapters and let the shop mount it to their machine. Here's an article showing that Hendrix Wire Wheel in Greensboro, NC does it that way: http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/hendrix3.pdf However, the fellow at Valley Wire Wheel Service in Van Nuys, CA does have the cones to mount wire wheels directly onto his machine. I don't know where he got them, though. He has a lot of other fairly rare wire wheel equipment (eg machine to make spokes) so that may apply to his balancer as well. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 11 10:03:18 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 09:03:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Balancing In-Reply-To: <6EB5E622DE1A4C76A8E52324C9E14147@jdnet.deere.com> References: <632856.61893.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <6EB5E622DE1A4C76A8E52324C9E14147@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > He has a lot of other fairly rare wire wheel > equipment (eg machine to make spokes) so that may apply to his balancer as > well. Come to think of it, those cones must not be all that rare. The second tire store I tried in Davenport, IA (on the way to VTR 2005) also had them; along with the proper equipment to mount tires on wire rims. Can't think of the name, but the folks at the Firestone tire store sent me there. Might have been Quad City Tire, as I recall they were just a few blocks away from the Firestone store and I had just crossed the river when I found them. -- Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Jun 11 10:50:44 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 09:50:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wire Wheel Balancing In-Reply-To: <632856.61893.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <632856.61893.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Find an old tire shop, not a chain type, with old guys doing the work, show them the diagram in the Moss Catalog and ask if they can do it that way ... > > >Are you able to find places to properly balance wire wheels in >your area? > >I have searched all over Tulsa, OK and nobody in town has the >correct hardware to properly mount the spline drive wheels on their spin >balancers. I even spoke with Hunter (large mfg of balancing equipement) and >they aren't familiar with what is needed. > >What are my options? > >Thanks, > >Chad >in Tulsa -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 11 11:04:08 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 10:04:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] New soft top In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <57C78D78B81C4A05B37128FC12395364@jdnet.deere.com> > All my emails to the list end up posting on the site as blank, > with none of my note intact. That seems to be a different problem than the AOL problem. The AOL folk are able to post and the rest of us can read their posts; they just can't receive list traffic. Your problem would appear to be something like Verizon is always sending in HTML or RTF format, rather than the plain text that the list requires. > I left the tissue paper in between all the plastic window > parts, and the window parts are all flat. IMO that should be enough. The vinyl will flatten out later; it's just the plastic window that has a problem with being folded. -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Jun 11 11:33:38 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 12:33:38 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Test for plain text Message-ID: <287290941.2167482.1244741618826.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> Test From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu Jun 11 12:40:52 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 13:40:52 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Test for plain text - THANKS RANDALL Message-ID: <1151392827.2171576.1244745652599.JavaMail.root@vms181.mailsrvcs.net> For the benefit of the list, Randall has once again come to my rescue. When Verizon released their newest web interface it uses RTF formatting, not plain text. We can now all concentrate on the AOL issue, Randall, you are the man. Craig Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 On Jun 11, 2009, Randall wrote: Sometimes the magic works ! -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of thenicholls at verizon.net > Sent: Thursday, June 11, 2009 10:34 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Test for plain text > > Test > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr3driver at ca.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From agraham at execulink.com Thu Jun 11 13:42:55 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 15:42:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Facet fuel pump - verify. Message-ID: <200906111942.n5BJgqT0011851@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello List: Attempting to source a Facet pump for my TR2 and would like to verify the pump I need. Going back over the messages of a couple of weeks ago, it seems the application for a TR is a model 40105. Do I have this right?? What about the filter? Should you go with the Facet or a suitable one from a FLAPS?? Thanks in advance for setting me straight on this one. Angelo Graham From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 11 15:48:15 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 14:48:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Facet fuel pump - verify. In-Reply-To: <200906111942.n5BJgqT0011851@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200906111942.n5BJgqT0011851@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <861F5358BEB545CA92E66CCFFF0C826A@jdnet.deere.com> > Attempting to source a Facet pump for my TR2 and would like to verify > the pump I need. Going back over the messages of a couple of weeks > ago, it seems the application for a TR is a model 40105. Do I have this > right?? That's it. > What about the filter? Should you go with the Facet or a suitable one > from a FLAPS?? IMO the local one will work fine. However if you get the pump from Aircraft Spruce (which is the cheapest source I know of), they also have the filter at a fair price. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php -- Randall From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Jun 11 16:59:36 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Thu, 11 Jun 2009 18:59:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Yet another puzzling (GT6) cooling system question Message-ID: <380-220096411225936930@M2W038.mail2web.com> Just to get the brain going, I offer up the following... In replacing all the coolant hoses on the GT6+ in preparation for Triumphest this year, I have developed a question as to why the cooling system was designed the way it was. Not that I am going to change anything, just a lingering question  and no real answer at least that I can see. The system basically takes the radiator water from the lower radiator hose, on the right side of the lower radiator tank into the pump, through the block in a conventional manner, but this is where it is unique, and to me, somewhat puzzling. One really has to look at the system closely to see what I am talking about here. In the stock system, AFTER the water leaves the thermostat and enters the thermostat housing it has two choices, both of which go to the same place, and therein lies the quandary as I see it. One choice for the water is to exit via the thermostat, then enter the thermostat housing, exiting via the left larger opening, into the top radiator hose, then into the upper tank on the almost left side of the radiator (just off of center) . Nothing special there. The other path is again, exit the thermostat into the thermostat housing, then off to the right into a smaller, approx 3/4 inch hose, (which is also called a top hose) which also enters the upper tank via the filler neck, just below the radiator cap, about two inches to the right of where the top hose enters. Essentially the same place as far as the system is concerned, the upper tank that the upper hose exit into. Does anybody have a decent explanation as to why anybody would design the system this way? I can see no real reason for this bypass hose. It doesnt bypass anything. It is basically a smaller upper radiator hose. Both ends start and end at basically the same place in the system. Any good reasons that I am missing as to why it was done that way, other than to add the cost of another hose??? Remember, look at an actual system to see what I am talking about  Youll see that the upper hose, and the bypass hose are just parallel hoses going to and from the same place! Just an observation, obviously too much time on my hands and just wondering what is going on here that I am missing!! As a side note, the Vitesse, which uses the same engine, does NOT have this smaller top hoseHummmm Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com  Enhanced email for the mobile individual based on Microsoft. Exchange - http://link.mail2web.com/Personal/EnhancedEmail From agmarshall at hotmail.com Fri Jun 12 02:54:11 2009 From: agmarshall at hotmail.com (Austin Marshall) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 01:54:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: Dear friend: What are u doing these days?I am going to recommend a Eshop to you.Yesterday I found a web of a large trading company from China,which is an agent of all the well-known digital product factories,and facing to both wholesalers,retailsalers,and personal customer all over the world. They export all kinds of digital products and offer really competitive and reasonable price and high quality goods for their clients,so i think you will make a big profit if you did business with them.And they promise they will provide the best after-sales-service.If you are interested to do business with them,in my opinion, you can make a trial order to test that. Their Web address: www.shop-2009.com Regards! _________________________________________________________________ Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC thats right for you. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290 From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Jun 12 05:20:30 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 07:20:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] skinny windshield? Message-ID: <1F26C8F937F24BA9B10E79B0C7B83848@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I went by the Auto Glass Co. and the guy gave me enuf glazing strip to do my windshield- but it maybe for 1/4" thick glass (my windshield came from www.prosourceglassintl.com and is tinted but is only 3/16" thick). It's a 'loose-snug' fit (something that rain will seep through). So I'm searching for something less than 1/16" thick to make it a 'tight fit'. Maybe a film or tape that's 1/32" thick- (my calculus didn't cover fractional/decimal conversion). Any ideas? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 12 10:17:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 09:17:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090612161744396.FOIP22702@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> Austin Marshall Sent: > > Dear friend: That's a bad case of worms you got there, Austin. You should get that treated! Randall From skip47 at clearwire.net Fri Jun 12 11:27:01 2009 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 10:27:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: Test in plain text; will I see myownself's message actually posted, for the first time in months? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 12 12:15:32 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 11:15:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] skinny windshield? In-Reply-To: <1F26C8F937F24BA9B10E79B0C7B83848@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <1F26C8F937F24BA9B10E79B0C7B83848@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <01B927B636D9412580FF8F0698343AC3@jdnet.deere.com> > It's a > 'loose-snug' fit (something that rain will seep through). So I'm > searching > for something less than 1/16" thick to make it a 'tight fit'. Maybe a > film or > tape that's 1/32" thick- Paul, I suspect it would be MUCH better to find a thicker glazing strip, rather than trying to double up with the strip you have plus a thinner one. Go back to the "Auto Glass Co" and tell them your problem, they almost certainly have a thicker glazing strip available. Another question perhaps worth investigating : Is your new windshield actually laminated safety glass, as required by US law? Being thinner makes me wonder if perhaps it is tempered glass, which is AFAIK forbidden as windshield in the US. -- Randall From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Fri Jun 12 12:21:54 2009 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 11:21:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Facet fuel pump Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F1003AC13@kb1.mossmotors.com> I would say use a 40104 Facet. It has a pressure rating of 1-1/2 to 3 pounds, where a 40105 has a 2-1/2 to 4-1/2. Also the 40104 is what is recommended for TR's by Facet. As far as a filter, the Facet fits the pump, filters to 74 microns, and is also the recommended unit - don't go too cheap on a filter. Most pump failures are because of small grit in them. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Jun 12 14:39:03 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 15:39:03 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: <10400773.1125924.1244839143964.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 12 15:31:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 14:31:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] New "hot" street cam for TR2-4A Message-ID: I've been trying to talk Larry Young (no relation) into making a "hot street" cam for the TR2-4 ever since I started hearing about how well his cams do on the track. He has now agreed that if he gets four firm orders, he will cut a master and make some cams. Check out the testimonials at http://www.tildentechnologies.com/testomonials.html for some idea of how successful his first TR racing cam has been. There is also a huge amount of information on the web site about cam design, including some new algorithms that Larry has developed and incorporated in computer software. http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Technical/CamPerformance.html I don't claim to understand all the technical stuff, but with comments like that from "uncle jack" and Tony, I want one! I've already made a commitment to Larry, so we only need 3 more ... if you have any questions or would like to get in line, please contact Larry at cartravel at pobox.com No financial interest, other than the more people that sign up, the less I'll have to pay -- Randall From skip47 at clearwire.net Fri Jun 12 15:51:13 2009 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 14:51:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test References: <10400773.1125924.1244839143964.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Well, we're halfway there. I see by your response that I'm sending ok, but I never got a copy in my own email. I'll wait a while, I've seen many answers to other emails before seeing the questions show up.... Thanks to you and all the others that came to my rescue! Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: skip47 at clearwire.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 1:39 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Test Yes you will, got my first one out there yesterday, hope my post helped you and others. Craig Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 On Jun 12, 2009, Skip Gurnee wrote: Test in plain text; will I see myownself's message actually posted, for the first time in months? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Jun 12 18:05:09 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 20:05:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] skinny windshield? References: <1F26C8F937F24BA9B10E79B0C7B83848@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <3C036D61327645C8A46B4F299FC5EB77@DCS78M81> When I had my windshield redone back in 1972, it had a tape that looked and felt and acted a whole lot like black electrical tape. Before the Valley Forge VTR I had redone the 3 and from British Victoria gotten some glazing tape that was much thicker than the TRF product that I used the second time, you might try them - or try Moss's. There was (at least at that time) some variation in thickness and I suppose they are returnable. Hope this helps Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Friday, June 12, 2009 7:20 AM Subject: [TR] skinny windshield? >I went by the Auto Glass Co. and the guy gave me enuf glazing strip to do >my > windshield- but it maybe for 1/4" thick glass (my windshield came from > www.prosourceglassintl.com and is tinted but is only 3/16" thick). It's a > 'loose-snug' fit (something that rain will seep through). So I'm > searching > for something less than 1/16" thick to make it a 'tight fit'. Maybe a > film or > tape that's 1/32" thick- (my calculus didn't cover fractional/decimal > conversion). Any ideas? > > Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jun 12 19:50:11 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 19:50:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] Let loose the flood...New questions: In-Reply-To: <1AA8F902445D4E40AB224FA5D3854FDB@TomandWendyPC> References: <943732.18929.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><116AB2ADFA6C42E9AF6CB2C281C6183B@jdnet.deere.com> <1AA8F902445D4E40AB224FA5D3854FDB@TomandWendyPC> Message-ID: <18F9DB28CC6947AE81EECFF153E14106@bboffice> Thanks guys, I guess my fuel pump must be on this thread as well, today it started leaking like a sieve through the little vent hole. I suppose misery loves company. Looks like it is re-build time, but I have two questions: 1. Can you replace everything 'in situ' except the pump-to-block gasket? I am not sure that I can even get the pump off with the tight clearance against the inner wing. 2. I notice that a rebuild kit from Moss is about $19 while the kit from TRF is $36. What is the difference, can someone offer a recommendation? Thank to all, Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Walling & Wendy Rose Sent: Monday, June 08, 2009 9:30 PM To: Mark Hooper; triumphs at autox.team.net When this happened to me, the culprit was a torn diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump which allowed the gas to drain directly into the engine. Simple draining and replacing the oil and filter were all that were needed to get my oil pressure back, and I replaced the pump with an electric one to avoid a repeat performance. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 12 20:06:12 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 19:06:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Let loose the flood...New questions: In-Reply-To: <18F9DB28CC6947AE81EECFF153E14106@bboffice> References: <943732.18929.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><116AB2ADFA6C42E9AF6CB2C281C6183B@jdnet.deere.com><1AA8F902445D4E40AB224FA5D3854FDB@TomandWendyPC> <18F9DB28CC6947AE81EECFF153E14106@bboffice> Message-ID: <645EA3E2305340BC94910A79D9F4C757@jdnet.deere.com> > 1. Can you replace everything 'in situ' except the pump-to-block gasket? I believe so, but I would recommend taking it off anyway. Unless you've made other modifications in the area, it's not that bad; provided you have the right tools. http://www.jmwagnersales.com/fpit.html > What is the difference, can someone offer a recommendation? I'm not sure about the kit from Moss. But I recently installed one from TRF and was very impressed. It includes some things that were not in the last kit I bought, including a new screen for the sediment bowl, and the seal underneath the diaphragm (which helps prevent gasoline in the oil when the seal fails). TRF apparently kits these things themselves. Of course, the most important part is whether the diaphragm will stand up to ethanol in our fuel or not. I believe some of the older kits (even genuine SU kits) would not. -- Randall From wmpless at iprimus.ca Fri Jun 12 20:40:17 2009 From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 22:40:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Message from Cosmo Kramer Message-ID: <4A331191.7060708@iprimus.ca> Cosmo has asked me to send to you the following: Hi list! Please E-mail your replies to: Cosmo Kramer TR4A2712 at yahoo.com or phone me at: 1-716-438-3769 & I will get your phone # & call you right back because it's just a 'local phone call for me. Glenn A. Merrell" & Blake Discher Please phone me. It is inreguard to the VTR & the Drive across America. Thanks TRIUMPHer's, -Cosmo Kramer From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri Jun 12 21:07:28 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 12 Jun 2009 22:07:28 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Let loose the flood...New questions: Message-ID: <1240276205.2413950.1244862448888.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net> Just one other opinion, I had TRF rebuild my AC fuel pump from my 72 TR6, came back brand new in less than 5 days for $90. Very satisfied, they even included the gasket for the installation. Craig Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 On Jun 12, 2009, Randall wrote: > 1. Can you replace everything 'in situ' except the pump-to-block gasket? I believe so, but I would recommend taking it off anyway. Unless you've made other modifications in the area, it's not that bad; provided you have the right tools. http://www.jmwagnersales.com/fpit.html > What is the difference, can someone offer a recommendation? I'm not sure about the kit from Moss. But I recently installed one from TRF and was very impressed. It includes some things that were not in the last kit I bought, including a new screen for the sediment bowl, and the seal underneath the diaphragm (which helps prevent gasoline in the oil when the seal fails). TRF apparently kits these things themselves. Of course, the most important part is whether the diaphragm will stand up to ethanol in our fuel or not. I believe some of the older kits (even genuine SU kits) would not. -- Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sat Jun 13 13:03:05 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 15:03:05 EDT Subject: [TR] No Mail Message-ID: All, It has bee a couple of weeks since I received anything from either the Triumph list or the 6-Pack list. Anyone else having the same issues? I am on AOL. TIA Sam Clark **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377049x1201454365/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd= JunestepsfooterNO62) From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Jun 13 14:27:19 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 13:27:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] No Mail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sam, It has been reported to the list that for some reason AOL is blocking incoming traffic from the TR List! As far as I know, no one has been able to get AOL to correct their 'filter' or whatever they are using. Mark has not mentioned any action he has or is taking, Good Luck! Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 12:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] No Mail All, It has bee a couple of weeks since I received anything from either the Triumph list or the 6-Pack list. Anyone else having the same issues? I am on AOL. TIA Sam Clark **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377049x1201454365/aol?redir=http:// www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd= JunestepsfooterNO62) Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Jun 13 18:52:19 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 17:52:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] No Mail References: Message-ID: <000801c9ec8a$6001c320$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com> I received your post. There have been complaints from AOL users. You should be getting more responses from those in the know on the list. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 12:03 PM Subject: [6pack] No Mail > All, > It has bee a couple of weeks since I received anything from either the > Triumph list or the 6-Pack list. Anyone else having the same issues? I am on > AOL. > TIA > > Sam Clark > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377049x1201454365/aol?redir=htt p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd= > JunestepsfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441) > Database version: 6.12600 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441) Database version: 6.12600 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jun 13 18:16:34 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 17:16:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test Drive! Clutch Problems Message-ID: <4A344162.50806@comcast.net> After 7 years of restoration work, I finally started the engine on my TR3 today. I let it run at 2k rpm for a half hour to break in the cam and then took it for a short ride up the driveway and back (1/2 mile). No fenders, bonnet, boot lid, doors, or transmission tunnel. What a rattle trap with all of the loose cage nuts floating around in their cages. What a torquey little engine! I had a blast and can't wait to finish assembling it. I ran into one problem. The clutch is very slow to release. It takes about three seconds from the time that I press on the clutch pedal until the load is removed from the engine. Since I have no transmission tunnel installed, I can watch the release level as I press on the clutch. I get full travel out of it immediately but the clutch doesn't actually disengage until about thee seconds later. No additional movement of the clutch lever occurs over the three second period. I can pump the pedal and gain additional travel, but it still doesn't change the amount of time that it takes for the clutch to release. Does the mechanism in pressure plates get sticky? I pulled this clutch assembly out of my parts car. It had a rebuild tag by Borg&Beck from 1978. It must have been installed shortly before the car was taken off the road because it was nice and clean and had no significant wear. I has been sitting around for decades. All the other parts - master cylinder, slave cylinder, flex hose and clutch lines are brand new. Thanks, Mike From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jun 13 20:11:03 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 20:11:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Test Drive! Clutch Problems In-Reply-To: <4A344162.50806@comcast.net> References: <4A344162.50806@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9600F0D7915F44329D4EAB2086B8EE75@bboffice> The clutch is very slow to release. It takes about three seconds from the time that I press on the clutch pedal until the load is removed... Congratulations Mike on your first ride, what a feeling! I would go back and re-bleed the clutch slave line, try the easiest thing first. Were the friction and pressure plates checked for true before you put them in. Then, it could be that there is just a lot of film/crud from sitting around for seven years and a little more use will resolve it. Good luck, Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Jun 13 21:25:07 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 20:25:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test Drive! Clutch Problems In-Reply-To: <4A344162.50806@comcast.net> References: <4A344162.50806@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906132025g14898262ub2f6b81f68ae52fd@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Jun 13, 2009 at 5:16 PM, Michael Lang wrote: > ...The clutch is very slow to release... You offer a very detailed account (with that cover off you can really see what's going on). I doubt more bleeding will help as what you describe suggests to me that the TOB is moving away from the fingers on the pressure plate immediately but that one or more of those fingers is slow to unspring. I have never heard of this happening this way but I did have one finger on my pressure plate fail. Shifting gradually became more difficult until finally the thing that the finger pivots in broke altogether: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/clutch1.JPG It is possible that yours will free up with use. If you have a 10-year-old around the house, give him 5 bucks to sit in the drivers seat for an hour working the clutch pedal up and down. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 13 21:58:19 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 20:58:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test Drive! Clutch Problems In-Reply-To: <4A344162.50806@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090614035820148.GAKJ16114@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > I can watch the release level as I press on the clutch. I get > full travel out of it immediately but the clutch doesn't actually > disengage until about thee seconds later. No additional movement of the > clutch lever occurs over the three second period. Sound to me like the friction plate must be binding to the input shaft, probably due to rust. Hopefully it will free up after driving awhile. But I don't think working the pedal without the engine running will help. Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jun 13 23:18:28 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 22:18:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test Drive! Clutch Problems In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0906132025g14898262ub2f6b81f68ae52fd@mail.gmail.com> References: <4A344162.50806@comcast.net> <7bb181af0906132025g14898262ub2f6b81f68ae52fd@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4A348824.8090703@comcast.net> > It is possible that yours will free up with use. If you have a > 10-year-old around the house, give him 5 bucks to sit in the drivers > seat for an hour working the clutch pedal up and down. > > Geo I like your solution! Problem is that I have a 12 year old daughter and I already wore her out on an hours worth of working the clutch and brake pedals up and down while bleeding both systems :-) I played with it a little more after I wrote the email and I also wonder if it will get better with some use. At one point, I was in neutral and it wouldn't release at all. I shut the engine off, put it in reverse and started the engine back up. The clutch let go as the engine started kind of like the disk was stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. It acted just like my old John Deere crawler tractor does after sitting all winter, only it had been sitting for 10 minutes. It seems to fit Randall's suggestion of the disk binding on the input shaft. I wouldn't image that rust is an issue as it hasn't been assembled long enough, but I am not sure if I tried the fit of the splines before I assembled the clutch. I think I will drive it a bit and see if it improves. Thanks for the suggestions. Mike From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jun 13 23:26:48 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 22:26:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Windscreen Buffer Message-ID: <4A348A18.9000104@comcast.net> Ok, I've got another question: Neither of my TR3's had the windscreen buffer or dash mounted rear view mirror when I get them. I ordered what I thought was going to be the rubber buffer and attaching bracket from TRF but only got a little molded piece of rubber. Does the rubber buffer attach directly to the mirror (that I don't currently have) or does it attach to some sort of metal bracket that mounts with the mirror? The various catalogs kind imply that there is a bracket but I didn't have any luck when I thought I was ordering one. Thanks, Mike From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Jun 13 22:39:54 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 21:39:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Windscreen Buffer In-Reply-To: <4A348A18.9000104@comcast.net> References: <4A348A18.9000104@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906132139g57eb590bn8d0a6cbfffa31851@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Jun 13, 2009 at 10:26 PM, Michael Lang wrote: > ...Does the rubber buffer attach to some sort of > metal bracket that mounts with the mirror? Yes. Item 45 in this picture: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29161 Geo From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jun 13 22:52:42 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 13 Jun 2009 22:52:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] Windscreen Buffer In-Reply-To: <4A348A18.9000104@comcast.net> References: <4A348A18.9000104@comcast.net> Message-ID: Mike, Yes, there is a bracket that holds the rubber buffer. I just put mine on today, after finishing the dash rail, it screws into the same holes with the mirror that you don't have. If you had ordered the bracket #602229 from TRF you would have received both pieces for about $11.99. Here is a picture I took today, if anyone else would like a copy off-line just let me know. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Lang Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 11:27 PM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] Windscreen Buffer Ok, I've got another question: Neither of my TR3's had the windscreen buffer or dash mounted rear view mirror when I get them. I ordered what I thought was going to be the rubber buffer and attaching bracket from TRF but only got a little molded piece of rubber. Does the rubber buffer attach directly to the mirror (that I don't currently have) or does it attach to some sort of metal bracket that mounts with the mirror? The various catalogs kind imply that there is a bracket but I didn't have any luck when I thought I was ordering one. Thanks, Mike This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Photo_061309_002.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Photo_061309_001.jpg] From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Sun Jun 14 06:05:03 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 08:05:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] No Mail In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2C88B4A0-713F-4D04-B1B9-65194E5C6F65@blakedischer.com> On Jun 13, 2009, at 3:03 PM, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > It has bee a couple of weeks since I received anything from either > the Triumph list or the 6-Pack list. Anyone else having the same > issues? I am on AOL. Hi Sam, I have received quite a few questions about this in my personal email since VTR supports the team.net lists. I have placed a post on the VTR Triumph Forum in which I speculate about what may be happening with regards to AOL. I've done a bit of research and have posted what I believe to be the cause and suggest a workaround that will ensure you continue to receive team.net postings. A direct link to the post: http://tiny.cc/FyS1a . The VTR Triumph Forum is free to all, non-members of VTR included. Cheers, Blake J. Discher, President VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Jun 14 08:01:46 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 10:01:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] THINGS THAT MIGHT LAST FOREVER"! Message-ID: <97BC6AC7DFD9447FB8F749773854111D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, My entry to start this thread off is: WINDSHIELD BRACKET BUFFER I'm gonna start a new thread entitled: "THINGS THAT MIGHT LAST FOREVER"! In order to qualify for this post tell us what's the been a item in your rebuild that DIDN'T NEED REBUILDING because it was as good as new. You can't just say, "The engine" unless: 1. every part of the item is stock original, and it looks and performs "as good as new", 2. it has never been rebuilt, taken apart completely, etc. Below is the reason for this thread: It's extra because I am gonna use the original! The reason for me ordering the extra buffer is because about 5 years ago TRF had a rubber sale and I thought that, "Gee, EVERYTHING rubber will need replacing on my 50 yo car!" But it turns out the old one is as good as new! Thanks, Paul From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jun 14 08:53:25 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 10:53:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] THINGS THAT MIGHT LAST FOREVER"! In-Reply-To: <97BC6AC7DFD9447FB8F749773854111D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <4A34D6A5.27662.465FD9DC@localhost> On 14 Jun 2009 at 10:01, dorpaul wrote: > tell us what's the been a item in your rebuild > that DIDN'T NEED REBUILDING because it was as good as new. Good subject, except for a few points. I've worked on or taken apart many things on my cars over the years only to discover that there was no real problem (or that the problem was elsewhere). The GT6 gearbox rebuild last year was a good example. I was looking for the source of a noise, worried about a bad bearing or tooth or something. Nothing looked untoward however so I put it back together mostly unchanged except for renewing some of the brass. Of course, it now shifts much better, has never yet crunched a gear (knock on wooden dashboard *! *!). So you see, the problem is that sometimes you take something apart, finds nothing in particular wrong, but use the opportunity to improve something. At the very least you buy peace of mind with your trouble. And then there it the matter of "as good as new". "New" wasn't necessarily all that good in the first place! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Jun 14 09:31:24 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 10:31:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] No Mail In-Reply-To: <2C88B4A0-713F-4D04-B1B9-65194E5C6F65@blakedischer.com> References: <2C88B4A0-713F-4D04-B1B9-65194E5C6F65@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <20090614153310.E1CB9187664@autox.team.net> Received a message from Mark Bradakis on another list indicating that he believes that the "AOL issue" has been resolved. The issue was that AOL uses reverse DNS to verify the e-mail sender, and Mark's new ISP didn't set up reverse DNS properly. That has been rectified. - Tony Drews At 07:05 AM 6/14/2009, Blake J. Discher wrote: >On Jun 13, 2009, at 3:03 PM, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: >>It has bee a couple of weeks since I received anything from either >>the Triumph list or the 6-Pack list. Anyone else having the same >>issues? I am on AOL. > > >Hi Sam, > >I have received quite a few questions about this in my personal email >since VTR supports the team.net lists. I have placed a post on the >VTR Triumph Forum in which I speculate about what may be happening >with regards to AOL. I've done a bit of research and have posted what >I believe to be the cause and suggest a workaround that will ensure >you continue to receive team.net postings. > >A direct link to the post: http://tiny.cc/FyS1a . The VTR Triumph >Forum is free to all, non-members of VTR included. > >Cheers, >Blake J. Discher, President >VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Jun 14 09:47:03 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 08:47:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution Message-ID: <405736.62365.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I bought a 1974 TR6 that was missing its front left fender. I see where the original antenna came out from the kick panel behind the left front fender. I have a straight rust free replacement fender without an antenna hole. Where on the fender did it mount? I am thinking about just going to the rear of the fender and cutting a hole. I really don't want to cut a hole out of such a nice panel. Are there alternative antenna's and mounting locations? For example: Back in the 70's, my sister dated some guy with an El Camino and he had kind of a whip antenna that was mounted on his rear bumper. It really looked bad-ass to me. TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From triumphs at consolidated.net Sun Jun 14 10:23:11 2009 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 11:23:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] RATCO frame Message-ID: <001701c9ed0c$69236e90$3b6a4bb0$@net> Does anyone have experience putting a new RATCO frame under an otherwise completed car? In particular, I am wondering about the total time involved and any suggestions as to sequencing the disassembly / reassembly. I just day dreaming for now, but a stock frame that looks a lot like Swiss cheese has me thinking. Thanks Ken Gano From lherault at bu.edu Sun Jun 14 10:58:47 2009 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 12:58:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fun with model T's/slow TR3 clutch Message-ID: I went to a nice event yesterday, called a "Culture Clash". It was a dual meeting of Cape Cod British car club members with the members of the local Model T club (can't remember their actual name) in Hanson MA. The weather was great, host Mark Vess had the perfect spot for the event and the food was great. The kicker was that driving home, as I crossed rt 152 in Plainville MA on my way to North Attleboro, I passed another Mimosa colored TR-6. The other owner and I exchanged surprised looks and a quick hello. Was that anyone on this list? On a side note, I remember that in very cold weather the clutch on my 58 TR3 was slow to return. In warmer weather it was fine. Oh how I miss that tired old 3. Ron L From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jun 14 11:40:41 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 17:40:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] THINGS THAT MIGHT LAST FOREVER"! In-Reply-To: <97BC6AC7DFD9447FB8F749773854111D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <1968302690.4080651245001241613.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >"THINGS THAT MIGHT LAST FOREVER"! B In >order to qualify for this post tell us what's the been a item in your rebuild >that DIDN'T NEED REBUILDING because it was as good as new.B B 1)B frame.B 2) differential 3) clutch 4) radiator Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jun 14 12:27:36 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 14:27:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution In-Reply-To: <405736.62365.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <405736.62365.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200906141427.37236.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 14 June 2009 11:47:03 am William Brewer wrote: > I bought a 1974 TR6 that was missing its front left fender. I see > where the original antenna came out from the kick panel behind the left > front fender. I have a straight rust free replacement fender without an > antenna hole. Where on the fender did it mount? I am thinking about just > going to the rear of the fender and cutting a hole. I really don't want to > cut a hole out of such a nice panel. Are there alternative antenna's and > mounting locations? For example: Back in the 70's, my sister dated some guy > with an El Camino and he had kind of a whip antenna that was mounted on his > rear bumper. It really looked bad-ass to me. TIA, > Bill in Tehachapi Bill, Not sure about the 74 but my 72 has a hole for the antenna just in front of the hole for the windshield on the top of the body, not on the fender. I have archived many 6 photos for reference and every one that has an antenna has it mounted in the same spot. Not sure of all these car years but always the same spot. I have never seen one mounted on the fender as of yet. Bob From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Jun 14 12:50:00 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 13:50:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution In-Reply-To: <200906141427.37236.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <405736.62365.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <200906141427.37236.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20090614185144.43701187E1B@autox.team.net> Here's kinda a shot of the antenna on a '73 TR-6... http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/2009_0509UncleJackTR60021.JPG Just as Bob describes. - Tony At 01:27 PM 6/14/2009, Bob wrote: >On Sunday 14 June 2009 11:47:03 am William Brewer wrote: > > I bought a 1974 TR6 that was missing its front left fender. I see > > where the original antenna came out from the kick panel behind the left > > front fender. I have a straight rust free replacement fender without an > > antenna hole. Where on the fender did it mount? I am thinking about just > > going to the rear of the fender and cutting a hole. I really don't want to > > cut a hole out of such a nice panel. Are there alternative antenna's and > > mounting locations? For example: Back in the 70's, my sister dated some guy > > with an El Camino and he had kind of a whip antenna that was mounted on his > > rear bumper. It really looked bad-ass to me. TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi >Bill, > >Not sure about the 74 but my 72 has a hole for the antenna just in front of >the hole for the windshield on the top of the body, not on the fender. I have >archived many 6 photos for reference and every one that has an antenna has it >mounted in the same spot. Not sure of all these car years but always the same >spot. > >I have never seen one mounted on the fender as of yet. > >Bob From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Jun 14 12:49:45 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 11:49:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Windscreen Buffer In-Reply-To: References: <4A348A18.9000104@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4A354649.4010804@comcast.net> Bill, Thanks for the picture. Now I know what I am missing. I just pulled my TRF invoice and I did indeed order #602229 for $11.99. I thought there should be a bracket in addition to the rubber buffer. It looks like I need to make a phone call on Monday and have them ship the missing piece. During the short drive that I took, the center of the windscreen sure did bounce up and down without it. Mike wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Mike, > > Yes, there is a bracket that holds the rubber buffer. I just put mine on > today, after finishing the dash rail, it screws into the same holes with the > mirror that you don't have. If you had ordered the bracket #602229 from TRF > you would have received both pieces for about $11.99. > > Here is a picture I took today, if anyone else would like a copy off-line > just let me know. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jun 14 16:12:21 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 18:12:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] RATCO frame In-Reply-To: <001701c9ed0c$69236e90$3b6a4bb0$@net> References: <001701c9ed0c$69236e90$3b6a4bb0$@net> Message-ID: <4A3575C5.7040202@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Ken, Jump onto the 6-Pack Forum (www.6-Pack.org)) and ask that question. I'm pretty sure that Jeff McGovern did just that over the winter. He lifted the body from the frame, transfered everything to a new Ratco frame and lowered the body onto the new frame. If it was Jeff who told me that at a show last Sunday, he said it wasn't that difficult a process. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org Ken Gano palm top wrote: > Does anyone have experience putting a new RATCO frame under an otherwise > completed car? In particular, I am wondering about the total time involved > and any suggestions as to sequencing the disassembly / reassembly. > > > > I just day dreaming for now, but a stock frame that looks a lot like Swiss > cheese has me thinking. > > > > Thanks > > > > Ken Gano > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Jun 14 16:20:43 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 18:20:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: Just checking status. Please delete. Darrell **************Choose the home loan that saves you the most $$$. Agents available at ditech.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221374924x1201371434/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fclk.atdmt.com%2FDEG%2Fgo%2F153724534%2Fdirect%2F0 1%2F) From emanteno at gmail.com Sun Jun 14 17:50:18 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 18:50:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution In-Reply-To: <20090614185144.43701187E1B@autox.team.net> References: <405736.62365.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <200906141427.37236.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <20090614185144.43701187E1B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <354a1780906141650g44794f77jea139096d671b646@mail.gmail.com> The antennas may have been dealer installed. I know my radio was, when I picked up my new 74 TR6 on Sept 20, 1974. My antenna is on the LF fender, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U On Sun, Jun 14, 2009 at 1:50 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > Here's kinda a shot of the antenna on a '73 TR-6... > http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/2009_0509UncleJackTR60021.JPG > Just as Bob describes. > > - Tony > > > At 01:27 PM 6/14/2009, Bob wrote: > >> On Sunday 14 June 2009 11:47:03 am William Brewer wrote: >> > I bought a 1974 TR6 that was missing its front left fender. I see >> > where the original antenna came out from the kick panel behind the left >> > front fender. I have a straight rust free replacement fender without an >> > antenna hole. Where on the fender did it mount? I am thinking about just >> > going to the rear of the fender and cutting a hole. I really don't want >> to >> > cut a hole out of such a nice panel. Are there alternative antenna's and >> > mounting locations? For example: Back in the 70's, my sister dated some >> guy >> > with an El Camino and he had kind of a whip antenna that was mounted on >> his >> > rear bumper. It really looked bad-ass to me. TIA, >> > Bill in Tehachapi >> Bill, >> >> Not sure about the 74 but my 72 has a hole for the antenna just in front >> of >> the hole for the windshield on the top of the body, not on the fender. I >> have >> archived many 6 photos for reference and every one that has an antenna has >> it >> mounted in the same spot. Not sure of all these car years but always the >> same >> spot. >> >> I have never seen one mounted on the fender as of yet. >> >> Bob >> > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as emanteno at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jmitch at snet.net Sun Jun 14 19:07:57 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 21:07:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution In-Reply-To: <354a1780906141650g44794f77jea139096d671b646@mail.gmail.com> References: <405736.62365.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <200906141427.37236.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <20090614185144.43701187E1B@autox.team.net> <354a1780906141650g44794f77jea139096d671b646@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4A359EED.8060109@snet.net> My 76 is also on the left front fender. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag Irv Korey wrote: > The antennas may have been dealer installed. I know my radio was, when I > picked up my new 74 TR6 on Sept 20, 1974. My antenna is on the LF fender, > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 > CF22767U > > On Sun, Jun 14, 2009 at 1:50 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > >> Here's kinda a shot of the antenna on a '73 TR-6... >> http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/2009_0509UncleJackTR60021.JPG >> Just as Bob describes. >> >> - Tony >> >> >> At 01:27 PM 6/14/2009, Bob wrote: >> >> >>> On Sunday 14 June 2009 11:47:03 am William Brewer wrote: >>> >>>> I bought a 1974 TR6 that was missing its front left fender. I see >>>> where the original antenna came out from the kick panel behind the left >>>> front fender. I have a straight rust free replacement fender without an >>>> antenna hole. Where on the fender did it mount? I am thinking about just >>>> going to the rear of the fender and cutting a hole. I really don't want From trdoctor at aol.com Sun Jun 14 19:38:45 2009 From: trdoctor at aol.com (trdoctor at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 21:38:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] No Mail In-Reply-To: <200906141133.5e94a351830c8@rly-dg08.mx.aol.com> References: <2C88B4A0-713F-4D04-B1B9-65194E5C6F65@blakedischer.com> <200906141133.5e94a351830c8@rly-dg08.mx.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CBBB7127FF9CD4-CCC-2CAB@webmail-da13.sysops.aol.com> Thanks.? I appreciate the feedback.? Hopefully this will be resolved soon. Sam and Carol Clark -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews To: Blake J. Discher ; TRDOCTOR at aol.com; Triumph List ; 6 Digest <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, Jun 14, 2009 10:31 am Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] No Mail Received a message from Mark Bradakis on another list indicating that he believes that the "AOL issue" has been resolved. The issue was that AOL uses reverse DNS to verify the e-mail sender, and Mark's new ISP didn't set up reverse DNS properly. That has been rectified.? ? - Tony Drews? ? At 07:05 AM 6/14/2009, Blake J. Discher wrote:? >On Jun 13, 2009, at 3:03 PM, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote:? >>It has bee a couple of weeks since I received anything from either? >>the Triumph list or the 6-Pack list. Anyone else having the same? >>issues? I am on AOL.? >? >? >Hi Sam,? >? >I have received quite a few questions about this in my personal email? >since VTR supports the team.net lists. I have placed a post on the? >VTR Triumph Forum in which I speculate about what may be happening? >with regards to AOL. I've done a bit of research and have posted what? >I believe to be the cause and suggest a workaround that will ensure? >you continue to receive team.net postings.? >? >A direct link to the post: http://tiny.cc/FyS1a . The VTR Triumph? >Forum is free to all, non-members of VTR included.? >? >Cheers,? >Blake J. Discher, President? >VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER? ? From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sun Jun 14 20:22:22 2009 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 19:22:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trans on Craiglist Message-ID: <4A35B05E.4070002@greenheart.com> I have no interest here, but I ran into this advertisement today. If this trans was rebuilt by Herman Van Den Akker as the advertisement says, you can be sure it was done right. So if anyone is looking for a trans, this might be a good buy. --Justin http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/pts/1220354961.html From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Jun 14 21:37:55 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2009 23:37:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] skinny windshield? FOLLOWUP References: <1F26C8F937F24BA9B10E79B0C7B83848@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <3C036D61327645C8A46B4F299FC5EB77@DCS78M81> Message-ID: The bottom part of this email contains a copy of the response I got back recently when I wrote the co. I bought the new, but thinner windshield from. Since I bought the w/s from him several years ago, I can understand his HESITATIONS. If I had to do it again, I'd proably go with one of the 'big three'. A w/s from one of the big three is not much different in cost, AND proably is thicker although I don't think the big three carry tinted windshields...right? (which looks cool, a FT says is useful). I went to a local glass shop and he provided me with a wider glazing...but it still was for the thicker w/s. What I did was to add two different type of black tape which (when added togather totaled slightly more than 1/16".) So far it looks okay, however, I think I dislike the lack of sturdiness which the original windshield had. I don't think my going from 1/4" to 3/16" is a favorable thing, but, still I press on. Someone said that Vicky Brit use to have a thicker glazing then TRF or Moss. Also the new tinted w/s is laminated properly, and is tempered as req. by law... it's just thinner! Paul ---------------------------------------------------------------- Paul: We have never had an issue with any of the FYG Brand not fitting properly. Have sold over 50 of these in the past 5 years. All the glass nowadays is 3/16" thickness, only the OEM was 1/4 inch. I can get the Triplex made in UK ones but they are more than double the price.. There are windshields made for the aftermarket that have been made too thick which will not fit in the frame properly but most glass today is thinner for cost reasons and lighter for weight reasons. I would think this fits well in there with 1/16th inch tolerance in these frames Richard ProSource Glass International Toll Free:877-345-2800 978-975-5400 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Jun 15 08:41:37 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 08:41:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] skinny windshield? FOLLOWUP In-Reply-To: References: <1F26C8F937F24BA9B10E79B0C7B83848@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <3C036D61327645C8A46B4F299FC5EB77@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <4A365DA1.8060804@tscusa.org> Paul, There is a company called TrimLok in California that makes rubber mounting strip in various configurations for both edges, the frame and the glass.. So you can order a length you need in whatever inside channel for the glass thickness and outside channel frame thickness you require. It will not accept the OE trim finisher, but it is much easier to install, comes with an easy to install locking trim chrome type finisher. WWW.TRIMLOK.COM Glenn Merrell TSC USA Chairman dorpaul wrote: > The bottom part of this email contains a copy of the response I got > back recently when I wrote the co. I bought the new, but thinner > windshield from. Since I bought the w/s from him several years ago, I > can understand his HESITATIONS. If I had to do it again, I'd proably > go with one of the 'big three'. > A w/s from one of the big three is not much different in cost, AND > proably is thicker although I don't think the big three carry tinted > windshields...right? (which looks cool, a FT says is useful). > I went to a local glass shop and he provided me with a > wider glazing...but it still was for the thicker w/s. > What I did was to add two different type of black tape which (when > added togather totaled slightly more than 1/16".) So far it looks > okay, however, I think I dislike the lack of sturdiness which the > original windshield had. > I don't think my going from 1/4" to 3/16" is a favorable thing, but, > still I press on. > Someone said that Vicky Brit use to have a thicker glazing then TRF > or Moss. Also the new tinted w/s is laminated properly, and is > tempered as req. by law... it's just thinner! > Paul > ---------------------------------------------------------------- > Paul: > We have never had an issue with any of the FYG Brand not fitting > properly. > Have sold over 50 of these in the past 5 years. All the glass nowadays is > 3/16" thickness, only the OEM was 1/4 inch. I can get the Triplex made > in UK > ones but they are more than double the price.. > > There are windshields made for the aftermarket that have been made too > thick > which will not fit in the frame properly but most glass today is > thinner for > cost reasons and lighter for weight reasons. > I would think this fits well in there with 1/16th inch tolerance in these > frames > Richard > > ProSource Glass International > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 15 08:55:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 07:55:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] skinny windshield? FOLLOWUP In-Reply-To: <4A365DA1.8060804@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <20090615145539872.TEUX26718@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> > It will not accept the OE trim finisher, but it is much easier to > install, comes with an easy to install locking trim chrome type finisher. Glenn, I think possibly you are thinking of the windshield arrangement found on the Stag and later TRs. Paul is working on a TR3A where the glass fits inside a chromed metal frame, rather than being held to the body with a thick rubber gasket. No 'finisher' required; and the mounting is simply a thin rubber strip that is folded over the edge of the glass where it is inserted into the frame. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 15 11:13:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 10:13:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] THINGS THAT MIGHT LAST FOREVER"! In-Reply-To: <97BC6AC7DFD9447FB8F749773854111D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <97BC6AC7DFD9447FB8F749773854111D@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <3460F4B5C6DA4D12907FFFD159205BE5@jdnet.deere.com> > But it turns out the old one is as good as new! Wasn't a TR, but I once changed rod bearings, main bearings and oil pump in an engine that turned out to have nothing worse wrong with it than a failed oil pressure sender. D'oh! It's good that your buffer has lasted so well, Paul. The original one on my TR3A rotted and broke many years ago, so I replaced it with a piece cut from a heater hose. Forgot all about that until I took the windshield off recently. -- Randall From jimbpps at cox.net Mon Jun 15 11:48:46 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 10:48:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution In-Reply-To: <20090614185144.43701187E1B@autox.team.net> References: <405736.62365.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><200906141427.37236.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <20090614185144.43701187E1B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <444C4C563E8444E699C65CFED638FF92@JimofficePC> That's where my TR250 antennae is mounted also! Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2009 11:50 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: William Brewer Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution Here's kinda a shot of the antenna on a '73 TR-6... http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/2009_0509UncleJackTR60021.JPG Just as Bob describes. - Tony At 01:27 PM 6/14/2009, Bob wrote: >On Sunday 14 June 2009 11:47:03 am William Brewer wrote: > > I bought a 1974 TR6 that was missing its front left fender. I > > see where the original antenna came out from the kick panel behind > > the left front fender. I have a straight rust free replacement > > fender without an antenna hole. Where on the fender did it mount? I > > am thinking about just going to the rear of the fender and cutting a > > hole. I really don't want to cut a hole out of such a nice panel. > > Are there alternative antenna's and mounting locations? For example: > > Back in the 70's, my sister dated some guy with an El Camino and he had kind of a whip antenna that was mounted on his > > rear bumper. It really looked bad-ass to me. TIA, > > Bill in Tehachapi >Bill, > >Not sure about the 74 but my 72 has a hole for the antenna just in >front of the hole for the windshield on the top of the body, not on the >fender. I have archived many 6 photos for reference and every one that >has an antenna has it mounted in the same spot. Not sure of all these >car years but always the same spot. > >I have never seen one mounted on the fender as of yet. > >Bob Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From dkspence at telus.net Mon Jun 15 13:10:44 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 13:10:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2F14FAA8-2A0B-48C2-9085-94B6B668C20F@telus.net> My 72 has a powered antennae mounted on the drivers side )LH) behind the cockpit, in the panel that forms the rear of the cockpit. This is any easy panel to cut a hole in as the surface is flat. The retracted antennae and mechanism are out of site and road debris in the compartment that contains the fuel tank. Easily accessible if necessary. I think it looks good here. The retractible is an anti vandalism feature as well as aesthetic. On 15-Jun-09, at 11:49 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > TR6 Antenna Location or alternate solution From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz Mon Jun 15 15:06:21 2009 From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 09:06:21 +1200 Subject: [TR] TR6 antenna\aerial Message-ID: <6EC980CA6E034174B035EBF441D5E44B@DRESANPC> Hi Listers.... My 4A has the aerial mounted on the front corner of the left rear mudguard (Fender). Looks good, and is well away from any interference from engine electrics. Cheers....Trev. 65 TR4A From banjonut at verizon.net Mon Jun 15 21:39:57 2009 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 20:39:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A Message-ID: <220932BB2DB94AA58DDA1438451BC63B@HAMPC> OK List...here's another weird one for you. I'm working on my '60 TR3A and I need new brackets that mount on the door-posts...both of my brackets were broken off decades ago. These are the brackets that the "Door Check Assy" (Moss PN 803-600) attaches to so the door doesn't open too far. There's one bracket on each door, and each one appears to be bent out of a single piece of metal, and welded to the door post from behind the fender (at least that's my guess). I'm thinking I might have to fabricate the parts myself. I have a photo of a supposed good bracket, but I am looking for more information before I tackle the fabrication job: 1. Does anyone know of a source for these parts? 2. Have any of you fabricated one, and if so, do you have a template I could copy? Thanks in advance, Steve Ball Lompoc Ca TS68164L Email: banjonut at verizon.net From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jun 15 22:37:00 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 22:37:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A In-Reply-To: <220932BB2DB94AA58DDA1438451BC63B@HAMPC> References: <220932BB2DB94AA58DDA1438451BC63B@HAMPC> Message-ID: <792D3C3B8E2141919FE23DB845EBE26B@bboffice> Steve, Andrew Prichard found one for me in a junkyard, I do not believe they are available new from any source. They do not look as it they would be too hard to make if you are handy at that sort of fabrication. Andrew, if you are still on the list, would you mind another trip to the junkyard? Another source that might be of service is: http://www.breakerlink.com/index.php courtesy of Fred Thomas Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ball Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 9:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A OK List...here's another weird one for you. I'm working on my '60 TR3A and I need new brackets that mount on the door-posts...both of my brackets were broken off decades ago. These are the brackets that the "Door Check Assy" (Moss PN 803-600) attaches to so the door doesn't open too far. There's one bracket on each door, and each one appears to be bent out of a single piece of metal, and welded to the door post from behind the fender (at least that's my guess). I'm thinking I might have to fabricate the parts myself. I have a photo of a supposed good bracket, but I am looking for more information before I tackle the fabrication job: 1. Does anyone know of a source for these parts? 2. Have any of you fabricated one, and if so, do you have a template I could copy? Thanks in advance, Steve Ball Lompoc Ca TS68164L Email: banjonut at verizon.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From mark at bradakis.com Tue Jun 16 01:59:27 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 01:59:27 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [TR] List Issues Message-ID: <20090616075927.6B6292E09F@bradakis.com> I believe that the issue of AOL folks not getting Team.Net email has been resolved. It was a side effect of moving to a new ISP and getting a new block of addresses. On a side note, if you appreciate what you get from my efforts and have not donated in a while, you might consider clicking on http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Jun 16 05:49:46 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 07:49:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A In-Reply-To: <792D3C3B8E2141919FE23DB845EBE26B@bboffice> References: <220932BB2DB94AA58DDA1438451BC63B@HAMPC> <792D3C3B8E2141919FE23DB845EBE26B@bboffice> Message-ID: <77FE2E4925BD48E3B45924359822E086@DCH6RFC1> The're all gone ! Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:37 AM To: 'Steve Ball'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A Steve, Andrew Prichard found one for me in a junkyard, I do not believe they are available new from any source. They do not look as it they would be too hard to make if you are handy at that sort of fabrication. Andrew, if you are still on the list, would you mind another trip to the junkyard? Another source that might be of service is: http://www.breakerlink.com/index.php courtesy of Fred Thomas Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ball Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 9:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A OK List...here's another weird one for you. I'm working on my '60 TR3A and I need new brackets that mount on the door-posts...both of my brackets were broken off decades ago. These are the brackets that the "Door Check Assy" (Moss PN 803-600) attaches to so the door doesn't open too far. There's one bracket on each door, and each one appears to be bent out of a single piece of metal, and welded to the door post from behind the fender (at least that's my guess). I'm thinking I might have to fabricate the parts myself. I have a photo of a supposed good bracket, but I am looking for more information before I tackle the fabrication job: 1. Does anyone know of a source for these parts? 2. Have any of you fabricated one, and if so, do you have a template I could copy? Thanks in advance, Steve Ball Lompoc Ca TS68164L Email: banjonut at verizon.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Jun 16 05:52:20 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 07:52:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A References: <220932BB2DB94AA58DDA1438451BC63B@HAMPC><792D3C3B8E2141919FE23DB845EBE26B@bboffice> <77FE2E4925BD48E3B45924359822E086@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <05E132B0A137480C88CA72C3EE578DB8@userb38463fba5> Try Scott Harper at Team Triumph Warren, OH 330-392-7176. One of the real good guys. Not too many left. He does not open before 10:30 AM, no Saturdays. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: ; "'Steve Ball'" ; Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 7:49 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A > The're all gone ! > > Andrew > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net > Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 12:37 AM > To: 'Steve Ball'; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A > > Steve, > > Andrew Prichard found one for me in a junkyard, I do not believe they are > available new from any source. They do not look as it they would be too > hard to make if you are handy at that sort of fabrication. Andrew, if you > are still on the list, would you mind another trip to the junkyard? > > Another source that might be of service is: > http://www.breakerlink.com/index.php courtesy of Fred Thomas > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Ball > Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 9:40 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Bracket for door post TR3A > > OK List...here's another weird one for you. I'm working on my '60 TR3A > and > I need new brackets that mount on the door-posts...both of my brackets > were > broken off decades ago. These are the brackets that the "Door Check Assy" > (Moss PN 803-600) attaches to so the door doesn't open too far. There's > one > bracket on each door, and each one appears to be bent out of a single > piece > of metal, and welded to the door post from behind the fender (at least > that's my guess). > > I'm thinking I might have to fabricate the parts myself. I have a photo > of > a supposed good bracket, but I am looking for more information before I > tackle the fabrication job: > 1. Does anyone know of a source for these parts? > 2. Have any of you fabricated one, and if so, do you have a template I > could copy? > > Thanks in advance, > > Steve Ball > Lompoc Ca > TS68164L From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Tue Jun 16 09:14:06 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 11:14:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] No Mail In-Reply-To: <20090614153310.E1CB9187664@autox.team.net> Message-ID: AOL was timing out eh? ;^) Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Drews Sent: June 14, 2009 11:31 AM To: Blake J. Discher; TRDOCTOR at aol.com; Triumph List; 6 Digest Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] No Mail Received a message from Mark Bradakis on another list indicating that he believes that the "AOL issue" has been resolved. The issue was that AOL uses reverse DNS to verify the e-mail sender, and Mark's new ISP didn't set up reverse DNS properly. That has been rectified. - Tony Drews At 07:05 AM 6/14/2009, Blake J. Discher wrote: >On Jun 13, 2009, at 3:03 PM, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: >>It has bee a couple of weeks since I received anything from either >>the Triumph list or the 6-Pack list. Anyone else having the same >>issues? I am on AOL. > > >Hi Sam, > >I have received quite a few questions about this in my personal email >since VTR supports the team.net lists. I have placed a post on the >VTR Triumph Forum in which I speculate about what may be happening >with regards to AOL. I've done a bit of research and have posted what >I believe to be the cause and suggest a workaround that will ensure >you continue to receive team.net postings. > >A direct link to the post: http://tiny.cc/FyS1a . The VTR Triumph >Forum is free to all, non-members of VTR included. > >Cheers, >Blake J. Discher, President >VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 16 14:26:18 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 13:26:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 refuses to start Message-ID: <389945.79312.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> don't know what happened but the car just won't start i checked for spark and it is alittle weak if i spray starter fluid in the carbs it turns over then dies out any suggestions the coil is new can it go bad how do i check it From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 16 14:36:33 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 13:36:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 refuses to start In-Reply-To: <389945.79312.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <389945.79312.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7F74008D77294E2E86C42976D346AB31@jdnet.deere.com> > don't know what happened but the car just won't start i checked for spark > and it is alittle weak if i spray starter fluid in the carbs it turns over > then dies out any suggestions the coil is new can it go bad how do i check > it If it's running on starter fluid, and then dies, the problem is almost certainly that it's not getting fuel. I'd start by pulling the fuel line at the carbs to see if fuel is getting that far; if so then the problem is likely stuck float valves or gunk in the jets. Somehow the latest changes in fuel composition have made it much more likely to clog things up. I had exactly the same problem on the lawnmower, and had to literally chip the hard, white deposits out of the jet. Carb cleaner wouldn't touch them. I've heard similar stories from others. -- Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jun 16 14:57:26 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 15:57:26 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 refuses to start Message-ID: <14057070.61616.1245185846815.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net> Article just release today from Moss in their newsletter: http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/Ethanol.html?utm_source=British174bs&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Emailer I have been putting Stabil in my tank every winter, it appears I am going to need to use it in the summer as well, or some of the suggestive additives from Moss. Hate additives. Hope this helps. Craig Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 On Jun 16, 2009, Randall wrote: > don't know what happened but the car just won't start i checked for spark > and it is alittle weak if i spray starter fluid in the carbs it turns over > then dies out any suggestions the coil is new can it go bad how do i check > it If it's running on starter fluid, and then dies, the problem is almost certainly that it's not getting fuel. I'd start by pulling the fuel line at the carbs to see if fuel is getting that far; if so then the problem is likely stuck float valves or gunk in the jets. Somehow the latest changes in fuel composition have made it much more likely to clog things up. I had exactly the same problem on the lawnmower, and had to literally chip the hard, white deposits out of the jet. Carb cleaner wouldn't touch them. I've heard similar stories from others. -- Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Tue Jun 16 15:11:19 2009 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 17:11:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod Message-ID: My 67 TR4A is not fitted with the stay rod that runs from the oil pan bolt to the clutch slave cylinder mounting hole. I assume it was discarded long ago by some mechanic as a matter of convenience. Is it safe to operate the car without the rod or am I risking some sort of catastrophic failure if I don't replace it? Thanks Glenn 67 TR4A CTC76828LO From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 16 15:37:56 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 14:37:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0992195BDA9F4B969E037C7A92BE7FE3@jdnet.deere.com> > Is it safe to operate the car > without the rod or am I risking some sort of catastrophic failure if I > don't replace it? Most likely it will be OK. However without that brace, there is a lot of bending force applied to the transmission flange; and I have seen one that was broken that way. Personally I would find or make a replacement for the brace. A little blacksmithing with a propane torch & BFH should be able to produce an adequate substitute from a length of hardware store threaded rod; if you can't source one otherwise. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 16 15:40:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 14:40:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 refuses to start In-Reply-To: <14057070.61616.1245185846815.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net> References: <14057070.61616.1245185846815.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: > Article just release today from Moss in their newsletter: > http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/Ethanol.html?utm_source=Briti > sh174bs&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Emailer In addition, Steve Hedke at British Pacific tells me that he has seen several cases of premature piston ring wear, that he attributes to the use of E10. We're talking brand new rings worn out in 10,000 miles. He recommends adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel as an upper cylinder lubricant. -- Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Jun 16 15:58:25 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 14:58:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: <0992195BDA9F4B969E037C7A92BE7FE3@jdnet.deere.com> References: <0992195BDA9F4B969E037C7A92BE7FE3@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906161458r5d7c02dbie98b8330bf7d5dfd@mail.gmail.com> I drove for almost 20 years without one just because I didn't know any better. No problem but added it when I realized the potential. They're about 17 bucks from the usual suspects. BTW -- the oil pan bolt that also holds that rod needs to be a bit longer than the others. Geo From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jun 16 18:59:13 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 19:59:13 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] tr6 refuses to start Message-ID: <11125517.85211.1245200353978.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net> Is he advising that for an original engine with 73000 miles on it? Craig Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 On Jun 16, 2009, Randall wrote: > Article just release today from Moss in their newsletter: > http://www.mossmotors.com/SiteGraphics/Pages/Ethanol.html?utm_source=Briti > sh174bs&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Emailer In addition, Steve Hedke at British Pacific tells me that he has seen several cases of premature piston ring wear, that he attributes to the use of E10. We're talking brand new rings worn out in 10,000 miles. He recommends adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel as an upper cylinder lubricant. -- Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Jun 16 21:15:14 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 22:15:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090617031541.79DFC187869@autox.team.net> I don't have one on my race TR-4 and have had no issues. So, it's not an URGENT addition. I think it's not a bad idea to have one, though. - Tony Drews At 04:11 PM 6/16/2009, Glenn Owen wrote: >My 67 TR4A is not fitted with the stay rod that runs from the oil pan bolt to >the clutch slave cylinder mounting hole. I assume it was discarded long ago by >some mechanic as a matter of convenience. Is it safe to operate the car >without the rod or am I risking some sort of catastrophic failure if I don't >replace it? >Thanks > >Glenn >67 TR4A CTC76828LO >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 16 21:54:31 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2009 20:54:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr6 refuses to start In-Reply-To: <11125517.85211.1245200353978.JavaMail.root@vms076.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <20090617035432327.GDRK26718@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> Randall wrote: > In addition, Steve Hedke at British Pacific tells me that he has seen > several cases of premature piston ring wear, that he attributes to the use > of E10. We're talking brand new rings worn out in 10,000 miles. He > recommends adding Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel as an upper cylinder > lubricant. Craig asked: > Is he advising that for an original engine with 73000 miles on it? You'd have to ask Steve that question. BRITPAC at aol.com Randall From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Jun 17 09:19:57 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 10:19:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod References: <20090617031541.79DFC187869@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <599563FB64514B57AB9D9C220637D5F6@yourpd3mh0abgs> it keeps the bracket from flexing. Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" To: "Glenn Owen" ; "Triumph Mailing List" Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 10:15 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod >I don't have one on my race TR-4 and have had no issues. So, it's not an >URGENT addition. I think it's not a bad idea to have one, though. > > - Tony Drews > > At 04:11 PM 6/16/2009, Glenn Owen wrote: >>My 67 TR4A is not fitted with the stay rod that runs from the oil pan bolt >>to >>the clutch slave cylinder mounting hole. I assume it was discarded long >>ago by >>some mechanic as a matter of convenience. Is it safe to operate the car >>without the rod or am I risking some sort of catastrophic failure if I >>don't >>replace it? >>Thanks >> >>Glenn >>67 TR4A CTC76828LO >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>http://www.vtr.org >> >> >>Triumphs at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com >> >>http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Wed Jun 17 11:01:15 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 10:01:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> I had the misfortune to operate a TR3 Transmission without that stay rod for some amount of time and finally the bell housing cracked for about 12 inches all the way around the curve of the bell housing and ruining the transmission! I believe that the use of this stay rod brace was eliminated on later transmissions. If you measure the thickness of the bell housing flange that bolts to the engine, it is about 3/8 of an inch thick on the early transmissions but close to 1/2 inch or more on the later transmissions! Much stronger! I don't know when this change occurred, but my guess is it changed when the gear box went to a synchro 1st gear. My TR250 does not have a stay rod however, I can't speak with any authority about the TR4. But if you measure the thickness of that flange and it is ~1/2 inch you are pretty safe! HTH and good luck, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Owen Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 2:11 PM To: Triumph Mailing List Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod My 67 TR4A is not fitted with the stay rod that runs from the oil pan bolt to the clutch slave cylinder mounting hole. I assume it was discarded long ago by some mechanic as a matter of convenience. Is it safe to operate the car without the rod or am I risking some sort of catastrophic failure if I don't replace it? Thanks Glenn 67 TR4A CTC76828LO Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From twr at frii.com Wed Jun 17 12:22:40 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:22:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring sets Message-ID: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> Well, I heard back from my mechanic today that the valve springs I have are pretty much shot. Some of them didn't even register! So, I'm about to order new spring sets, but I only see exhaust spring sets on mossmotors. What do I do for the intake springs? Buy 2 sets? Hmmm. Thanks, Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com Wed Jun 17 13:10:30 2009 From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:10:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Looking for the best place to buy Panasports for my TR6 In-Reply-To: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <479214.22495.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I am getting close to buying Panasport wheels for my TR6 and was wondering where people have purchased them. I know the big 3 have them but them seem really expensive. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.I am located in Maryland. Thank you, Robert Rudolphi 76TR6 From emanteno at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 13:15:18 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 14:15:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for the best place to buy Panasports for my TR6 In-Reply-To: <479214.22495.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> <479214.22495.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <354a1780906171215s2b6e79aagf04c810aa92b5924@mail.gmail.com> When I bought mine, the best deal came from Paul Spruell Alfa. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 2:10 PM, robert rudolphi wrote: > I am getting close to buying Panasport wheels for my TR6 and was > wondering where people have purchased them. I know the big 3 have them but > them seem really expensive. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.I > am > located in Maryland. > > Thank you, > > Robert Rudolphi > 76TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as emanteno at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Wed Jun 17 13:17:22 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:17:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve spring sets In-Reply-To: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: A friend (and customer) recommended that I look at British Parts North West (BPNW) for engine parts for my TR250 engine rebuild scheduled next year. I did some preliminary surfing and they do have some good prices and lots of choices! Of course NFI and YMMV, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd Richmond Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 11:23 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] valve spring sets Well, I heard back from my mechanic today that the valve springs I have are pretty much shot. Some of them didn't even register! So, I'm about to order new spring sets, but I only see exhaust spring sets on mossmotors. What do I do for the intake springs? Buy 2 sets? Hmmm. Thanks, Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 13:38:52 2009 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:38:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Looking for the best place to buy Panasports for my TR6 In-Reply-To: <354a1780906171215s2b6e79aagf04c810aa92b5924@mail.gmail.com> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> <479214.22495.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <354a1780906171215s2b6e79aagf04c810aa92b5924@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0906171238n1df646d7s7c11d0fd167f5163@mail.gmail.com> got mine at Spruel also -- but look into Koenig Rewinds -- liked those much better. bought them off a guy who sells them all the time on e-bay. On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 12:15 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > When I bought mine, the best deal came from Paul Spruell Alfa. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL > > On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 2:10 PM, robert rudolphi > wrote: > >> I am getting close to buying Panasport wheels for my TR6 and was >> wondering where people have purchased them. I know the big 3 have them but >> them seem really expensive. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.I >> am >> located in Maryland. >> >> Thank you, >> >> Robert Rudolphi >> 76TR6 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as emanteno at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From emanteno at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 13:40:55 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 14:40:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Looking for the best place to buy Panasports for my TR6 In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0906171238n1df646d7s7c11d0fd167f5163@mail.gmail.com> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> <479214.22495.qm@web56202.mail.re3.yahoo.com> <354a1780906171215s2b6e79aagf04c810aa92b5924@mail.gmail.com> <8cbd782d0906171238n1df646d7s7c11d0fd167f5163@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <354a1780906171240nb9693dcta5093be959942079@mail.gmail.com> The Konig Rewinds ARE nice, and priced much better than the Panasports. Just got a set last year for my TR6 in 16x7. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 2:38 PM, Chuck Arnold wrote: > got mine at Spruel also -- but look into Koenig Rewinds -- liked those > much better. bought them off a guy who sells them all the time on > e-bay. > > On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 12:15 PM, Irv Korey wrote: > > When I bought mine, the best deal came from Paul Spruell Alfa. > > > > Irv Korey > > 74 TR6 CF22767U > > Highland Park, IL > > > > On Wed, Jun 17, 2009 at 2:10 PM, robert rudolphi > > wrote: > > > >> I am getting close to buying Panasport wheels for my TR6 and was > >> wondering where people have purchased them. I know the big 3 have them > but > >> them seem really expensive. Any suggestions would be greatly > appreciated.I > >> am > >> located in Maryland. > >> > >> Thank you, > >> > >> Robert Rudolphi > >> 76TR6 > >> _______________________________________________ > >> > >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > >> http://www.vtr.org > >> > >> > >> Triumphs at autox.team.net > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >> > >> You are subscribed as emanteno at gmail.com > >> > >> http://www.team.net/archive > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > > > > > -- > Chuck Arnold From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Wed Jun 17 15:41:28 2009 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 17:41:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> Message-ID: Thanks for all the replies. FWIW, the Moss catalog shows a stay rod fitted to all TR's through the 4A (with a design change at TR3: TS13046). That's a good point about the flange thickness. Next time I have it on jackstands, I will check. Glenn 67 TR4A CTC76829LO > I had the misfortune to operate a TR3 Transmission without that stay rod > for > some amount of time and finally the bell housing cracked for about 12 > inches all > the way around the curve of the bell housing and ruining the transmission! > > I believe that the use of this stay rod brace was eliminated on later > transmissions. If you measure the thickness of the bell housing flange > that > bolts to the engine, it is about 3/8 of an inch thick on the early > transmissions > but close to 1/2 inch or more on the later transmissions! Much stronger! I > don't > know when this change occurred, but my guess is it changed when the gear > box > went to a synchro 1st gear. > > My TR250 does not have a stay rod however, I can't speak with any > authority > about the TR4. But if you measure the thickness of that flange and it is > ~1/2 > inch you are pretty safe! From jmitch at snet.net Wed Jun 17 16:03:05 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 18:03:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Italias available Message-ID: <4A396819.4080104@snet.net> I just noticed Revington is marketing Italia bodies http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/collection_display.asp?CID=728 From TR4Zest at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 16:17:10 2009 From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 22:17:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] valve spring sets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <0016365edf5609da96046c92a768@google.com> Todd: These are complete sets of Moss springs - intake and exhaust. They differ in the respect that one offers triple spring exhaust sets, the othe double spring exhaust sets. The latter is the later version. 831-000 $48.75 VALVE SPRING SET (triple exh. springs) TR2 thru TR4 CT21470E 1 831-010 $46.95 VALVE SPRING SET (double exh. springs) TR4 CT21471E - TR4A 1 Brian On Jun 17, 2009 8:17pm, Jim Bauder wrote: > A friend (and customer) recommended that I look at British Parts North > West > (BPNW) for engine parts for my TR250 engine rebuild scheduled next year. > I did > some preliminary surfing and they do have some good prices and lots of > choices! > Of course NFI and YMMV, > Jim > Jim Bauder > 480-309-9525 > '68 TR250 CD47L > Scottsdale, AZ > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Todd Richmond > Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 11:23 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] valve spring sets > Well, I heard back from my mechanic today that the valve springs I have > are > pretty much shot. Some of them didn't even register! > So, I'm about to order new spring sets, but I only see exhaust spring > sets on > mossmotors. What do I do for the intake springs? Buy 2 sets? Hmmm. > Thanks, > Todd Richmond > Fort Collins, Colorado > 1959 TR3A TS54425L > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com > http://www.team.net/archive From TR4Zest at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 16:17:16 2009 From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 22:17:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] valve spring sets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <0016e6dd8ece68a957046c92a7b3@google.com> Todd: These are complete sets of Moss springs - intake and exhaust. They differ in the respect that one offers triple spring exhaust sets, the othe double spring exhaust sets. The latter is the later version. 831-000 $48.75 VALVE SPRING SET (triple exh. springs) TR2 thru TR4 CT21470E 1 831-010 $46.95 VALVE SPRING SET (double exh. springs) TR4 CT21471E - TR4A 1 Brian On Jun 17, 2009 8:17pm, Jim Bauder wrote: > A friend (and customer) recommended that I look at British Parts North > West > (BPNW) for engine parts for my TR250 engine rebuild scheduled next year. > I did > some preliminary surfing and they do have some good prices and lots of > choices! > Of course NFI and YMMV, > Jim > Jim Bauder > 480-309-9525 > '68 TR250 CD47L > Scottsdale, AZ > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Todd Richmond > Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 11:23 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] valve spring sets > Well, I heard back from my mechanic today that the valve springs I have > are > pretty much shot. Some of them didn't even register! > So, I'm about to order new spring sets, but I only see exhaust spring > sets on > mossmotors. What do I do for the intake springs? Buy 2 sets? Hmmm. > Thanks, > Todd Richmond > Fort Collins, Colorado > 1959 TR3A TS54425L > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 17 17:00:25 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 16:00:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] valve spring sets In-Reply-To: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <9800FA8B681E4FB09C4BA55B702388DC@jdnet.deere.com> TRF P/N RFK439 is a set of valve springs for TR2 through early TR4 with triple exhaust springs as original. There is a note on the Moss web site that they may supply sets with only 2 exhaust springs, even for P/N 831-000 http://mossmotors.com/Shop/MoreInfo.aspx?PlateDetailID=487265&LanguageID=1 I've never quite understood why these double sets can be used with the early head; and the later double sets can not. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 17 17:19:55 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 16:19:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> Message-ID: > If you measure the thickness of the bell housing flange > that > bolts to the engine, it is about 3/8 of an inch thick on the early > transmissions > but close to 1/2 inch or more on the later transmissions! Much stronger! I > don't > know when this change occurred, but my guess is it changed when the gear > box > went to a synchro 1st gear. I believe it changed more than once. The TR2-3 version was only perhaps 1/4". I don't recall it getting thicker when the 4-synchro box was introduced with the TR4 (and some TR3B), but perhaps it did. Then it got thicker when the 6-cylinder TR5/250 was introduced; and again at least once sometime during TR6 production. I believe one of those changes was when they tried to rationalize transmission parts between the TR6 and Stag. The castings were the same, but the Stag casting is machined differently (to accommodate the roller thrust bearings on the countershaft). I hadn't realized that the 6-cylinder TRs didn't have the brace. I wonder if this is yet another piece of the puzzle why they have so many more clutch woes than the other cars do. The mounting plate definitely flexes somewhat without the brace. -- Randall From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Jun 17 17:43:13 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 19:43:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com> My 1961 TR4 has the 1/4" flange and is full synchro. Brad CT288L Sent from my iPhone On Jun 17, 2009, at 7:19 PM, "Randall" wrote: >> If you measure the thickness of the bell housing flange >> that >> bolts to the engine, it is about 3/8 of an inch thick on the early >> transmissions >> but close to 1/2 inch or more on the later transmissions! Much >> stronger! I >> don't >> know when this change occurred, but my guess is it changed when the >> gear >> box >> went to a synchro 1st gear. > > I believe it changed more than once. The TR2-3 version was only > perhaps > 1/4". I don't recall it getting thicker when the 4-synchro box was > introduced with the TR4 (and some TR3B), but perhaps it did. Then > it got > thicker when the 6-cylinder TR5/250 was introduced; and again at > least once > sometime during TR6 production. I believe one of those changes was > when > they tried to rationalize transmission parts between the TR6 and > Stag. The > castings were the same, but the Stag casting is machined differently > (to > accommodate the roller thrust bearings on the countershaft). From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Jun 17 18:08:07 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 17:08:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Late TR4 Seatback Webbing Message-ID: <7bb181af0906171708x2fb105c2i57087793be6df146@mail.gmail.com> The webbing (4 straps per seat) on my Late-TR4 seat backs is so dry and brittle I cannot tell what they were made of originally. I realize Moss and others sell replacement straps but is there a common material generally available locally that is suitable? Geo From twr at frii.com Wed Jun 17 18:11:32 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 18:11:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring sets In-Reply-To: References: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <1245283892.3517.132.camel@localhost.localdomain> Another source you might want to consider is bscr.com. NFI of course, but I have been using them to get discounted prices on MOSS parts. I have been pretty happy with them so far, as they offer 16% off regular retail prices, and an additional 6% off sale prices. I have of course looked at TRF, BPNW, and other sources, and for very expensive parts I always check everyone, but for more run-of-the-mill stuff I just resort to bscr.com since for the times I have done price comparisons, the extra 16% off has usually made what I was looking for very competitive if not quite a bit cheaper. I like it because I can just enter in the MOSS parts numbers and see what the sale price will be. YMMV. Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L On Wed, 2009-06-17 at 12:17 -0700, Jim Bauder wrote: > A friend (and customer) recommended that I look at British Parts North West > (BPNW) for engine parts for my TR250 engine rebuild scheduled next year. I did > some preliminary surfing and they do have some good prices and lots of choices! > > Of course NFI and YMMV, > > Jim > Jim Bauder > 480-309-9525 > '68 TR250 CD47L > Scottsdale, AZ From twr at frii.com Wed Jun 17 18:15:18 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 18:15:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] valve spring sets In-Reply-To: <4A395AE9.50709@dfn.com> References: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> <4A395AE9.50709@dfn.com> Message-ID: <1245284118.3517.136.camel@localhost.localdomain> Okay, that makes more sense. I guess I was thrown off by the descriptions where it says either 2 or 3 spring exhaust sets. Thanks for the clarification. Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L > > So, I'm about to order new spring sets, but I only > > see exhaust spring sets on mossmotors. What do I > > do for the intake springs? Buy 2 sets? Hmmm. > > > > > > Admittedly, the Moss catalog doesn't make it entirely clear, but the > valve spring sets should be for both intake and exhaust. You have a > choice of one set, which has three exhaust springs per exhaust valve, or > the other set, which has two exhaust springs per exhaust valve, but the > diagram makes it clear that the set number is for both intake and > exhaust springs. From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Jun 17 19:50:45 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 21:50:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> <443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com> Message-ID: <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> I recall that the changes to the Transmission case had more to do with the number and placement of reinforcement ribs at the transition between the bell housing and the transmission case. The ribs didn't begin to show up until the 4 syncro TR4 style boxes. If the flange thickness changed too my guess would be that it happened when the ribs were added. I believe there were no ribs, then 1 rib then 2 ribs which lasted through the TR 6. My TR4A has 2 ribs and was built in May 1966. Were there ever 3 ribs??? As for the stay rod, it's hard to believe that running without that rod is a good thing. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad Kahler" To: "Randall" Cc: "Triumph Mailing List" Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 7:43 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod > My 1961 TR4 has the 1/4" flange and is full synchro. > > Brad > CT288L > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 17, 2009, at 7:19 PM, "Randall" wrote: > >>> If you measure the thickness of the bell housing flange >>> that >>> bolts to the engine, it is about 3/8 of an inch thick on the early >>> transmissions >>> but close to 1/2 inch or more on the later transmissions! Much >>> stronger! I >>> don't >>> know when this change occurred, but my guess is it changed when the >>> gear >>> box >>> went to a synchro 1st gear. >> >> I believe it changed more than once. The TR2-3 version was only >> perhaps >> 1/4". I don't recall it getting thicker when the 4-synchro box was >> introduced with the TR4 (and some TR3B), but perhaps it did. Then >> it got >> thicker when the 6-cylinder TR5/250 was introduced; and again at >> least once >> sometime during TR6 production. I believe one of those changes was >> when >> they tried to rationalize transmission parts between the TR6 and >> Stag. The >> castings were the same, but the Stag casting is machined differently >> (to >> accommodate the roller thrust bearings on the countershaft). From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Wed Jun 17 20:16:06 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 22:16:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hotwheels TR6 Message-ID: See the attached link. I have not seen this yet in person, but will surely buy one. http://hotwheelsdiecastcars.blogspot.com/2009/05/2009-hot-wheels-triumph-tr6 .html Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From darrellw at ipns.com Wed Jun 17 20:25:10 2009 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 19:25:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> <443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com> <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <3DE07AEC-27B2-4691-A91A-FA6ECEEED9E3@ipns.com> On Jun 17, 2009, at 6:50 PM, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > As for the stay rod, it's hard to believe that running without that > rod is a good thing. I agree. I believe not having that rod is the reason the section of the bell housing on my transmission where the cylinder bracket mounts separated from the rest. -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Jun 17 20:47:55 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 21:47:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <20090618024823.61556187A75@autox.team.net> Good point. I have a late TR-4 or TR-6 tranny with the thicker flange. - Tony At 12:01 PM 6/17/2009, Jim Bauder wrote: >I had the misfortune to operate a TR3 Transmission without that stay rod for >some amount of time and finally the bell housing cracked for about >12 inches all >the way around the curve of the bell housing and ruining the transmission! > >I believe that the use of this stay rod brace was eliminated on later >transmissions. If you measure the thickness of the bell housing flange that >bolts to the engine, it is about 3/8 of an inch thick on the early >transmissions >but close to 1/2 inch or more on the later transmissions! Much >stronger! I don't >know when this change occurred, but my guess is it changed when the gear box >went to a synchro 1st gear. > >My TR250 does not have a stay rod however, I can't speak with any authority >about the TR4. But if you measure the thickness of that flange and it is ~1/2 >inch you are pretty safe! > >HTH and good luck, > >Jim >Jim Bauder >480-309-9525 >'68 TR250 CD47L >Scottsdale, AZ >http://www.triumphowners.com/647 > >-----Original Message----- >From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] >On Behalf Of Glenn Owen >Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 2:11 PM >To: Triumph Mailing List >Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod > >My 67 TR4A is not fitted with the stay rod that runs from the oil pan bolt to >the clutch slave cylinder mounting hole. I assume it was discarded long ago by >some mechanic as a matter of convenience. Is it safe to operate the >car without >the rod or am I risking some sort of catastrophic failure if I don't >replace it? >Thanks > >Glenn >67 TR4A CTC76828LO >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net > >http://www.team.net/archive >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 17 22:15:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 21:15:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Slave Cylinder Stay Rod In-Reply-To: <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <20090618041559537.SAQK22702@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Were there ever 3 ribs??? I guess it depends on what you count as a "rib". I just looked at an early Stag box (which I believe is the same casting as the late TR6 box I had on the TR3A) and it has maybe a dozen things I would call "ribs", though some of them aren't very long. And the flange definitely got thicker (or rather was built up in specific places) because I had to put longer studs in the back of the TR3 engine block to make the TR6 box fit. I have examples of at least 3 different thicknesses in 4-synchro housings (including a TR4 box with the thin flange broken almost entirely away). Randall From banjonut at verizon.net Wed Jun 17 21:51:32 2009 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 20:51:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bracket for TR3A Doorpost Message-ID: <389732EDB9CA41AB8BDAB561D292ADCF@HAMPC> Listers, Thanks for the many responses to my message about needing the doorpost brackets. Special thanks to Randy in Texas, who is sending a salvaged pair of brackets that may be useable, but in the worst case they will make great templates for fabricating new ones. As usual, the list has come through for me again. Thanks for such a great resource! Steve Ball Lompoc Ca TS68164L From dkspence at telus.net Wed Jun 17 23:33:19 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don) Date: Wed, 17 Jun 2009 23:33:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 283 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3647BAE6-9132-461A-87E0-1357F1D32C5B@telus.net> Don't know how current this is as the web page references an article in Triumph World magazine in 2001. If the Italia project has gone forward you'd think there would be something more current up. On 17-Jun-09, at 6:08 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: John Mitchell > Date: June 17, 2009 4:03:05 PM MDT (CA) > To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Subject: [TR] Triumph Italias available > > > I just noticed Revington is marketing Italia bodies > http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/collection_display.asp?CID=728 From jmwagner at greenheart.com Thu Jun 18 02:00:14 2009 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 01:00:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner: Friends in the U.K. Message-ID: <4A39F40E.5080103@greenheart.com> I'm dialling in some plans to go the U.K. between the 19th and the 26th. I'm planning to attend at least one day at TR Register's International Weekend, being held at the Three Counties Showground, Malvern, 24-26 July. (Yes, I plan to bring some silicone valve cover gaskets.) I may has a stop in Coventry. I'm will be spending some time in London. I welcome any recommendations such as hotels, events, pubs, etc. My schedule will likely get tight quickly, but I want to make the best of my time while there. --Justin Wagner jmwagnersales.com From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Thu Jun 18 10:30:22 2009 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 09:30:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com> <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> I am going to be replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3 this weekend. >From what I can tell, the pump is gravity fed and lower than the gas tank and that I will need to drain the tank first. I think that I have seen shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was removed by a PO or it was never there. I have a TR4 engine and it may have been removed with the switch. Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? I have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. Thanks, Roger Wilson '60 TR3 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4168 (20090618) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Thu Jun 18 10:42:46 2009 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:42:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> Message-ID: <28372124BD434FD18552801E83BC0E4D@aitinc.local> Roger, If the tank isn't full, you should be able to elevate the front of the car high enough (using jack stands or ramps) to stop fuel from feeding via gravity. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Wilson" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 11:30 AM Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump >I am going to be replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3 this weekend. > >>From what I can tell, the pump is gravity fed and lower than the gas tank > and that I will need to drain the tank first. I think that I have seen > shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was > removed > by a PO or it was never there. I have a TR4 engine and it may have been > removed with the switch. > > Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? I > have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. > > Thanks, > Roger Wilson > '60 TR3 From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 18 10:53:23 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 10:53:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> Message-ID: <98BBB068C97B425E94AF43C232E1CFC4@bboffice> It would be good to get a shutoff valve installed while you are doing the pump work. I think the OEM type valve is still available but if not, any good valve could be installed up near the fuel tank out of sight. In your case, I would just drain/siphon the tank as best as possible then have a small stopper ready as soon as you break the line from the pump. If you have a rubber line from your pump to the frame, just put a small clamp/forceps and block the line until you are ready to re-install. Good luck, Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Wilson Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:30 AM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump I am going to be replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3 this weekend. >From what I can tell, the pump is gravity fed and lower than the gas >tank and that I will need to drain the tank first. I think that I have seen shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was removed by a PO or it was never there. I have a TR4 engine and it may have been removed with the switch. Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? I have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. Thanks, Roger Wilson '60 TR3 __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4168 (20090618) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Jun 18 11:33:05 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 12:33:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com> <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> Message-ID: What are people doing about automatic shutoff? I assume you something to shutoff the fuel if you have an accident. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 09:30:22 -0700 > Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump > > I am going to be replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3 this weekend. > > >From what I can tell, the pump is gravity fed and lower than the gas tank > and that I will need to drain the tank first. I think that I have seen > shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was removed > by a PO or it was never there. I have a TR4 engine and it may have been > removed with the switch. > > Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? I > have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. > > Thanks, > Roger Wilson > '60 TR3 > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature > database 4168 (20090618) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 18 11:59:31 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:59:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> Message-ID: Let's see... Your in a very small car, inches from the ground, 4-14 gallons of fuel 12" behind you in the same cockpit. Where do you put the valve? I do have the original valve next to the fuel pump, but it would depend on the accident conditions as to whether you could get to it or not. Just getting into a sidescreen is pretty dicey in itself, I suppose you could transfer the technology from a new car to incorporate a shut-off system but there seems to be so many other safety factors that would be going against you that the benefit might be minimal. For my money, the best and only device I have and use is a seatbelt. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 11:33 AM To: TR owners List Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel Pump What are people doing about automatic shutoff? I assume you something to shutoff the fuel if you have an accident. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 09:30:22 -0700 > Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump > > I am going to be replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3 this weekend. > > >From what I can tell, the pump is gravity fed and lower than the gas > >tank > and that I will need to drain the tank first. I think that I have seen > shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was removed > by a PO or it was never there. I have a TR4 engine and it may have > been removed with the switch. > > Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? > I have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. > > Thanks, > Roger Wilson > '60 TR3 > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature > database 4168 (20090618) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Thu Jun 18 12:52:36 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:52:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Hot Wheels TR6 Message-ID: <314830.902.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> This link should work better. http://hotwheelsdiecastcars.blogspot.com/2009/05/2009-hot-wheels-triumph-tr6. html I would be interested in buying one direct instead of having to sort through them at WalMart... Bill in Tehachapi From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 18 12:56:15 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 11:56:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> Message-ID: <29AE516928AE497AA75D3BA05B495FDB@jdnet.deere.com> > What are people doing about automatic shutoff? We don't need no steenkin automatic shutoff! Just to echo what Bill said; that fuel line is doggone well protected! Any accident serious enough to rupture the line is also going to rupture the tank or turn the car upside down which would keep fuel from leaking from the line anyway. The tank vent line is a different story ... I capped mine off because it was dumping raw fuel on the road even in non-accident situations. (Which reminds me, I need to take care of that detail on the project TR3.) -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 18 13:07:23 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 12:07:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> Message-ID: <830AC69D129441D7A224F172713441F7@jdnet.deere.com> > I think that I have seen > shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was > removed by a PO or it was never there. The factory cheaped-out on the later cars, and deleted the shutoff. > Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? I > have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. When you pull the soft line off the inlet to the pump, have something handy to jam in to plug it. A 1/4" extension would probably do. The original tap is kind of a pain, and heavy enough that it needs to be mounted to something, so I would suggest something more like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140323502238 -- Randall From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Jun 18 12:14:24 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 14:14:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> <28372124BD434FD18552801E83BC0E4D@aitinc.local> Message-ID: <776800DCBE414E84A73D7A2AEF9B394C@fred8kwiskhcfu> I have one i ordered from "Jegs" a few years back, it has a screw on the top that you can adjust the correct pressure, called "Petrol King", vey easy installation. "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Geiger" To: "Roger Wilson" ; "'Triumph List'" Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 12:42 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel Pump > Roger, > > If the tank isn't full, you should be able to elevate the front of the car > high enough (using jack stands or ramps) to stop fuel from feeding via > gravity. > > Terry Geiger > www.GeigerGarage.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Roger Wilson" > To: "'Triumph List'" > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 11:30 AM > Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump > > >>I am going to be replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3 this >>weekend. >> >>>From what I can tell, the pump is gravity fed and lower than the gas tank >> and that I will need to drain the tank first. I think that I have seen >> shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was >> removed >> by a PO or it was never there. I have a TR4 engine and it may have been >> removed with the switch. >> >> Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? I >> have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. >> >> Thanks, >> Roger Wilson >> '60 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Jun 18 15:02:42 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 14:02:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Late TR4 Seatback Webbing In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0906171708x2fb105c2i57087793be6df146@mail.gmail.com> References: <7bb181af0906171708x2fb105c2i57087793be6df146@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <13C9A33132AF4BC2952A7977B181F8A5@JimofficePC> Geo. If that 'webbing' is the same type as on my TR250, it is kind of a rubber with cloth reinforcement molded inside. Sort of like very thin tire side walls! I believe I ordered it from TRF. The terminations weren't the same as the originals but it worked! I just checked Vicky Brit's catalog and they show they offer it for the TR4-4A, p/n 16-195, $37.95 for the set, probably per seat?!? Of course NFI and YMMV! Good luck, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2009 5:08 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] Late TR4 Seatback Webbing The webbing (4 straps per seat) on my Late-TR4 seat backs is so dry and brittle I cannot tell what they were made of originally. I realize Moss and others sell replacement straps but is there a common material generally available locally that is suitable? Geo Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tfansher at comcast.net Thu Jun 18 17:06:46 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 19:06:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5><90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> <98BBB068C97B425E94AF43C232E1CFC4@bboffice> Message-ID: <7A4CC15434454C4983D69F0685692B56@DCS78M81> On the new project TR3A, I put a shut-off in the gas line along the frame where it can be reached through the hole in the floor used for jacking ... a good disabling device, too. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'Roger Wilson'" ; "'Triumph List'" Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 12:53 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel Pump > It would be good to get a shutoff valve installed while you are doing the > pump work. I think the OEM type valve is still available but if not, any > good valve could be installed up near the fuel tank out of sight. > > In your case, I would just drain/siphon the tank as best as possible then > have a small stopper ready as soon as you break the line from the pump. > If > you have a rubber line from your pump to the frame, just put a small > clamp/forceps and block the line until you are ready to re-install. > > Good luck, > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Wilson > Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:30 AM > To: 'Triumph List' > Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump > > I am going to be replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3 this > weekend. > >>From what I can tell, the pump is gravity fed and lower than the gas >>tank > and that I will need to drain the tank first. I think that I have seen > shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was > removed > by a PO or it was never there. I have a TR4 engine and it may have been > removed with the switch. > > Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? I > have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. > > Thanks, > Roger Wilson > '60 TR3 From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Jun 18 17:50:23 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 16:50:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <7A4CC15434454C4983D69F0685692B56@DCS78M81> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC> <443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com> <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> <98BBB068C97B425E94AF43C232E1CFC4@bboffice> <7A4CC15434454C4983D69F0685692B56@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906181650l25f1e27dsbce1c5ce4cbc70be@mail.gmail.com> Years ago I got a couple of locking pliers from Harbor Freight that are specifically for clamping lines closed. Can't find them on the site now, closest thing is this: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=65116 The pliers are better though if you're reaching into a tight spot. To work on the forward fuel line I just clamp the flexible fuel line coming off the tank. To work on just the pump I clamp the forward fuel line. To work on the rear fuel line, of course, requires the tank be drained. I am always careful to be sure that rear line is sound -- it would be a real PITA to replace on the road. The pliers clamps go with me everywhere -- on 2 occasions I have driven home with the rear brakes clamped off (1 frozen brake cylinder & 1 delaminated brake shoe) they really shut a line off with no apparent damage. Geo From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jun 18 21:04:30 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 23:04:30 EDT Subject: [TR] Help with the list please Message-ID: I feel as though I am shouting out into the darkness, not knowing if anyone can hear me. I stopped receiving posts to the list almost two months ago now. I have heard from another lister that aol as put in some new firewall that is stripping off the autox emails. I have tried to resubscribe with a new domain but the Majordomo lists no longer show the Triumph list as available to me. I have emailed Mark Bradakis but to no avail. If someone receives this please email directly to me, don't post as I cannot see it. My parents did this once as well. They moved away and didn't tell me. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Dell Days of Deals! June 15-24 - A New Deal Everyday! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222677718x1201465083/aol?redir=http:%2F%2F ad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215692163%3B38015526%3Be) From pcaffrey at ymail.com Thu Jun 18 21:12:34 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:12:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Help with the list please In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <875300.74670.qm@web59714.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> David, Your post came through to me. I'm on yahoo and wireless, now, and still got it. AOL has some explaining to do, to it's subscribers. Pat ________________________________ From: "DLylis at aol.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 8:04:30 PM Subject: [TR] Help with the list please I feel as though I am shouting out into the darkness, not knowing if anyone can hear me.. I stopped receiving posts to the list almost two months ago now. I have heard from another lister that aol as put in some new firewall that is stripping off the autox emails. I have tried to resubscribe with a new domain but the Majordomo lists no longer show the Triumph list as available to me. I have emailed Mark Bradakis but to no avail. If someone receives this please email directly to me, don't post as I cannot see it. My parents did this once as well. They moved away and didn't tell me. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Dell Days of Deals! June 15-24 - A New Deal Everyday! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222677718x1201465083/aol?redir=http :%2F%2F ad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B215692163%3B38015526%3Be) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 18 22:22:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 18 Jun 2009 21:22:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Help with the list please In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090619042248152.BBUF19511@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> > I feel as though I am shouting out into the darkness, not knowing if > anyone can hear me. Our long-suffering listmeister has told us twice now that the AOL problem is resolved. Apparently there are still some lingering pockets of resistance. We're all still here, but you are not alone in still not receiving list traffic. I did check that you are subscribed (which was obviously the case since we saw your post), and that delivery does not show as disabled. > I have tried to resubscribe with > a new domain but the Majordomo lists no longer show the Triumph list as > available to me. That is because the Triumphs list was moved away from Majordomo several years ago, and is now managed by Mailman. Try going to the web page at http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs and see if that won't work for you. There is still a way to do it by email, but I forget how offhand. Randall From patton at suscom-maine.net Thu Jun 18 23:13:55 2009 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 01:13:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help with the list please In-Reply-To: <20090619042248152.BBUF19511@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> References: <20090619042248152.BBUF19511@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <4A3B1E93.6040807@suscom-maine.net> Hi, Just to offer a little different slant, my email over the past month dropped to a trickle and I'm not an AOL user. For email I use Mozilla Thunderbird and about a moth ago there was a new version update. Evidently the update included an improved spam filter that diverted this list and many others to the Junk folder without any notice. So I'm thinking that the List has temporarily lost it's AOL contributors cutting the number of messages way back but that wasn't that case. If you are using Thunderbird take a look in your Junk folder. Rick Patton pattonmachine.com 75 TR6sci 74 TVR 2500M Randall wrote: >> I feel as though I am shouting out into the darkness, not knowing if >> anyone can hear me. >> > > Our long-suffering listmeister has told us twice now that the AOL problem is > resolved. Apparently there are still some lingering pockets of resistance. > We're all still here, but you are not alone in still not receiving list > traffic. I did check that you are subscribed (which was obviously the case > since we saw your post), and that delivery does not show as disabled. > > >> I have tried to resubscribe with >> a new domain but the Majordomo lists no longer show the Triumph list as >> available to me. >> > > That is because the Triumphs list was moved away from Majordomo several > years ago, and is now managed by Mailman. Try going to the web page at > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > and see if that won't work for you. There is still a way to do it by email, > but I forget how offhand. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jun 19 00:07:25 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 06:07:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com> <3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> Message-ID: If there is a rubber hose between the tank and the pump you can clamp the hose with vise grips to shut off the fuel flow. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now. http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jun 19 00:25:02 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 06:25:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <830AC69D129441D7A224F172713441F7@jdnet.deere.com> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> <830AC69D129441D7A224F172713441F7@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: If an accident is bad enough to rupture your tank a shut off valve is redundant. I have a shut off valve mounted to the frame just under the front of the drivers seat. I extended the length of the valve shaft with a piece of 5/16" steel fuel line that protrudes through the floor of the car. I threaded the inside of the piece of fuel line with a tap that matched the threads on the valve shaft. Thus the handle for the shut off is in the passenger compartment and I can easily shut off the fuel to the engine. I used a 1/4" ball type plumping valve. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC thats right for you. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290 From pete_groh at yahoo.com Fri Jun 19 06:31:05 2009 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 05:31:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lead to 64' Racing Spitfire, Won President's Cup 1966, TRA 2009 Message-ID: <474634.52596.qm@web36803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> This information was posted on the bulletin board by Bill Piggott. "We met this guy Martin Burk at Summit Point raceway - he has a 1964 Racing Spitfire for sale, together with a 2nd part car - The recer won the Presidents Cup in 1966 - it has been stored for 30 plus years near here and is all complete. He has to sell both together. If interested - Contact Martin Burk Direct Business card on board. Senior Driving Instructor Tel 304 885-5704 I am send a copy of this e-mail to him. NFI On a personal note, TRA was able to use the track for a extended period of time. On behalf of Mason/Dixon TRA club, Appreciated. Please pass this on to the other list. Kind regards Pete Groh (KeyGuy) From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Jun 19 06:51:09 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 08:51:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hot Wheels TR6 In-Reply-To: <314830.902.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <314830.902.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007901c9f0dc$9e9e0fc0$dbda2f40$@net> Me too but not at WalMart Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 2:53 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Hot Wheels TR6 This link should work better. http://hotwheelsdiecastcars.blogspot.com/2009/05/2009-hot-wheels-triumph-tr6 . html I would be interested in buying one direct instead of having to sort through them at WalMart... Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jun 19 08:22:14 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 10:22:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Help with the list please In-Reply-To: <4A3B1E93.6040807@suscom-maine.net> References: <20090619042248152.BBUF19511@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> <4A3B1E93.6040807@suscom-maine.net> Message-ID: On Fri, 19 Jun 2009, Rick Patton wrote: [stuff deleted] > cutting the number of messages way back but that wasn't that case. If > you are using Thunderbird take a look in your Junk folder. This isn't necessarily just a Thunderbird thing... if you use ANY filtering, you need to check the junk folder from time to time for false positives. Then you have to adjust your filter settings. I do a lot of helpdesk stuff for e-mail problems. e-mail filters can be a really big problem when set up wrong!! But a LOT of the mail lists out there are switching to forums to fix the overhead of maintaining e-mail lists and it's not just because of AOL. For example, it's not unusual for my employer's domain to get "black listed", so folks here spend a rediculous amount of time working with AOL and Comcast and other ISPs who do some pretty weird stuff to "stop spam". None of it is effective, mind you. Afterall, some counts indicate 90% of e-mail is SPAM. Go figure. > Rick Patton > pattonmachine.com > 75 TR6sci > 74 TVR 2500M regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From dlylis at gmail.com Fri Jun 19 10:41:56 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 12:41:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] The prodigal lister Message-ID: <2a7657b60906190941w501c308ah1d5edc4aa15f5084@mail.gmail.com> I once was lost, but now am found. No more aol. I guess I missed that Mailman replaced Majordomo. Thanks to all. David Lylis From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Jun 19 12:43:15 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 11:43:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Help with the list please In-Reply-To: References: <20090619042248152.BBUF19511@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> <4A3B1E93.6040807@suscom-maine.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906191143g51146c84o54f40f1d4558cbf4@mail.gmail.com> FWIW -- I set up a Gmail account specifically for this list. The mail arrives well organized and I can maintain a personal (searchable) archive of any items I want to retain (or everything I suppose since they allow 7.339 gig of archive) with said archive being kept by Google. I am not savvy enough to know if this is an alternative that would have helped AOL users, maybe some of them aren't savvy enough to know either -- but it works very well for me. Geo From twr at frii.com Fri Jun 19 13:05:21 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 13:05:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers Message-ID: <1245438321.3517.150.camel@localhost.localdomain> Well, while the engine parts are all off getting machined, I thought I would start looking at something else to hold me over till the parts come back. To that end, my 15 year-old son and I (read the blind leading the blind) started removing the rusted rear shock absorbers from the frame this morning. After a lot of work and elbow grease, and eventually having to cut through the mounting bolts, we have the first one off. So now, my question is, are there rebuild kits for these things? (I haven't been able to find any yet). I've noticed that you can have them rebuilt and send in the cores, but there doesn't seem to be any rebuild kits that I can find. Is rebuilding them yourself not an option? Also, what is the consensus on gas shock conversion kits? Are these worthwhile, or too much of a headache? I'm tempted to just refill the lever shocks with oil and see if that works well enough, but how do you test if these things are working without actually driving around on them? Thanks, Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 19 15:19:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 14:19:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers In-Reply-To: <1245438321.3517.150.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1245438321.3517.150.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <7E8387B5FE484EA7B0E33796728DD0ED@jdnet.deere.com> > Is rebuilding them yourself not an option? Apparently requires enough special tools that no one does it. If you learn how, I'd love to hear about it (just because it's something I don't know). Looks like you start by pulling the shaft out of the inner lever, which apparently ruins both of them (so they have to be replaced), etc. > Also, what is the consensus on gas shock conversion > kits? Are these worthwhile, or too much of a > headache? On a TR3, they severely limit how wide a tire you can run. IMO wide tires offer far more improvement than uprated shocks. The stock lever shock can also be modified by changing the valving (plug in the side near the bottom) and/or using heavier oil. It's also my opinion that the leaf springs have so much internal friction that they don't really need any more damping. YMMV of course. Worth noting, perhaps, that the IRS cars have much softer rear suspensions, including the shocks. TR3 shocks are noticeably stiffer than IRS shocks. > but how do you test if these things are working > without actually driving around on them? As a general rule, if they don't leak, they are OK. But try forcing the arm to move throughout its entire stroke, both up and down. If it offers very firm but even resistance all the way, then IMO they are working well enough. If you don't feel resistance, or the resistance changes at any point within the stroke, it has a problem (which may be only air in the unit, so try it a few times with the shock held upright before discarding them). -- Randall From jimbpps at cox.net Fri Jun 19 15:41:07 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 14:41:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers In-Reply-To: <1245438321.3517.150.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1245438321.3517.150.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <1B1D14FC5209464AAA08B740BF75885C@JimofficePC> Todd, When I restored my '58 TR3 (sold in 2003) I sent my shocks to Apple Hydraulics for a rebuild. They did an excellent job, I asked that they not paint them and they sent them with a bead blasted finish, replaced the hardware and reinstalled them. Worked great! Of course NFI, just a satisfied customer! Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd Richmond Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 12:05 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers Well, while the engine parts are all off getting machined, I thought I would start looking at something else to hold me over till the parts come back. To that end, my 15 year-old son and I (read the blind leading the blind) started removing the rusted rear shock absorbers from the frame this morning. After a lot of work and elbow grease, and eventually having to cut through the mounting bolts, we have the first one off. So now, my question is, are there rebuild kits for these things? (I haven't been able to find any yet). I've noticed that you can have them rebuilt and send in the cores, but there doesn't seem to be any rebuild kits that I can find. Is rebuilding them yourself not an option? Also, what is the consensus on gas shock conversion kits? Are these worthwhile, or too much of a headache? I'm tempted to just refill the lever shocks with oil and see if that works well enough, but how do you test if these things are working without actually driving around on them? Thanks, Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Jun 19 16:09:23 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 22:09:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers In-Reply-To: <1245438321.3517.150.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <1476632004.6196431245449363847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >I'm tempted to just refill the lever >shocks with oil and see if that works well enough, >but how do you test if these things are working >without actually driving around on them? Well, now you mention, the rear lever shocks are something I should have added to the list of indestructable TR3 parts that didn't need rebuilding during my restoration.B In essence, I did just what you suggest, which is to drain all the old oil, and refill with about a half pint of Harley Davidson Hydraulic Fork Oil, Type B. If I recall List advice at the time, there were suggestions that stiffness can be added by doing something to a spring, but I don't remember very well and this could be just my doddering brain. At any rate, I didn't do anything like that, and the car handles bumps about as well as I would want from a hardcore minimalist two-seater sportscar with power under the hood and nuts behind the wheel.B Shocks and brakes are for sissies! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Jun 19 16:20:10 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 22:20:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers In-Reply-To: <1476632004.6196431245449363847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <473796151.6199371245450010759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Oh.B And the test is on the workbench, working the levers by hand to feel for resistance.B Nothing really complicated. >I'm tempted to just refill the lever >shocks with oil and see if that works well enough, >but how do you test if these things are working >without actually driving around on them? Well, now you mention, the rear lever shocks are something I should have added to the list of indestructable TR3 parts that didn't need rebuilding during my restoration.B B In essence, I did just what you suggest, which is to drain all the old oil, and refill with about a half pint of Harley Davidson Hydraulic Fork Oil, Type B. If I recall List advice at the time, there were suggestions that stiffness can be added by doing something to a spring, but I don't remember very well and this could be just my doddering brain. At any rate, I didn't do anything like that, and the car handles bumps about as well as I would want from a hardcore minimalist two-seater sportscar with power under the hood and nuts behind the wheel.B From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jun 19 18:41:31 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 18:41:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers In-Reply-To: <473796151.6199371245450010759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1476632004.6196431245449363847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <473796151.6199371245450010759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6236790E47A7465FA4579563A5E55735@bboffice> You can stiffen the shocks by using a heavier weight oil. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 4:20 PM To: Todd Richmond Cc: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers Oh.B And the test is on the workbench, working the levers by hand to feel for resistance.B Nothing really complicated. >I'm tempted to just refill the lever >shocks with oil and see if that works well enough, but how do you test >if these things are working without actually driving around on them? Well, now you mention, the rear lever shocks are something I should have added to the list of indestructable TR3 parts that didn't need rebuilding during my restoration.B B In essence, I did just what you suggest, which is to drain all the old oil, and refill with about a half pint of Harley Davidson Hydraulic Fork Oil, Type B. If I recall List advice at the time, there were suggestions that stiffness can be added by doing something to a spring, but I don't remember very well and this could be just my doddering brain. At any rate, I didn't do anything like that, and the car handles bumps about as well as I would want from a hardcore minimalist two-seater sportscar with power under the hood and nuts behind the wheel.B _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 19 22:01:05 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 23:01:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] gas gage Message-ID: <000601c9f15b$cfaa9230$250110ac@ranteer.local> hi folks. i'm on a trip, about 5 hours from home. have tools (will travel?) 72 triumph tr6 with lots of goodparts the gas gage goes left when i turn the car off, and then goes to 1/4 when i turn the car on. period. irrespective of how much gas is in the tank. just all of a sudden as far as i can tell. what do i look for? where do i start trouble shooting? thanks! From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jun 19 22:18:38 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 00:18:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] gas gage In-Reply-To: <000601c9f15b$cfaa9230$250110ac@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4A3C2ADE.17298.2B3CC96@localhost> On 19 Jun 2009 at 23:01, oliver wrote: > the gas gage goes left when i turn the car off, and then goes to 1/4 when i > turn the car on. period. irrespective of how much gas is in the tank. just > all of a sudden as far as i can tell. > > what do i look for? where do i start trouble shooting? Well, gas goes through the carburettor, right? And 90% of all carburettor problems are electrical. So your problem is electrical. Really. Maybe a short or a break in the line to the fuel sender, though it hard to imagine it being consistent like that. Maybe poor connections? Could be a busted sender, most likely. If you pull the wire off the sender does it make any difference in the gauge reading? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Jun 20 00:00:47 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 06:00:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] Improving rear suspension. In-Reply-To: <7E8387B5FE484EA7B0E33796728DD0ED@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1245438321.3517.150.camel@localhost.localdomain> <7E8387B5FE484EA7B0E33796728DD0ED@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: On a leaf spring car you can improve the rear suspension by sanding the leaf springs. You disassemble the springs. Then you use a barrel sanding fixture on a hand drill and sand the contact surfaces of each leaf until they are smooth. Then grease the contact surfaces with some wheel bearing grease and reassemble them. The rear suspension will then move up and down with more ease and efficiency. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now. http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1 From lang at isis.mit.edu Sat Jun 20 07:33:15 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 09:33:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] gas gage In-Reply-To: <000601c9f15b$cfaa9230$250110ac@ranteer.local> References: <000601c9f15b$cfaa9230$250110ac@ranteer.local> Message-ID: Does your temp gauge read correctly? If not, then your voltage stabiliser is bad and needs to be replaced. If temp is OK, then your problem is with the gas level sending unit. Simple fix, but you pretty much have to remove the fuel tank to get the old one out. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jun 20 07:39:31 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 08:39:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Improving rear suspension. References: <1245438321.3517.150.camel@localhost.localdomain><7E8387B5FE484EA7B0E33796728DD0ED@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: you can order spring gaiters for your rear suspension. these allow the oil/grease to lube the springs at all times. additionally, they have a certain amount of visual appeal. they are ancient tech, but they work. or, once a month, wrap your rear springs in burlap or another cloth that has been saturated in used engine oil. a LOT messier than gaiters, but effective. Best, Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 1:00 AM Subject: [TR] Improving rear suspension. > On a leaf spring car you can improve the rear suspension by sanding the > leaf > springs. You disassemble the springs. Then you use a barrel sanding > fixture > on a hand drill and sand the contact surfaces of each leaf until they are > smooth. Then grease the contact surfaces with some wheel bearing grease > and > reassemble them. The rear suspension will then move up and down with more > ease and efficiency. > > Best regards, > > Tom > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try > it > now. > http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M > LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From spook01 at comcast.net Sat Jun 20 07:43:11 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 08:43:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers References: <1476632004.6196431245449363847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><473796151.6199371245450010759.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <6236790E47A7465FA4579563A5E55735@bboffice> Message-ID: hop down to the motorcycle store for some thicker fork oil..comes in various viscosities. Best, Ray ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; "'Todd Richmond'" Cc: "'TR List'" Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 7:41 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers > You can stiffen the shocks by using a heavier weight oil. > Bill Beecher > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net > Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 4:20 PM > To: Todd Richmond > Cc: TR List > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers > > Oh.B And the test is on the workbench, working the levers by hand to feel > for resistance.B Nothing really complicated. > > > > >>I'm tempted to just refill the lever >>shocks with oil and see if that works well enough, but how do you test >>if these things are working without actually driving around on them? > > Well, now you mention, the rear lever shocks are something I should have > added to the list of indestructable TR3 parts that didn't need rebuilding > during my restoration.B B In essence, I did just what you suggest, which > is > to drain all the old oil, and refill with about a half pint of Harley > Davidson Hydraulic Fork Oil, Type B. > > > > If I recall List advice at the time, there were suggestions that stiffness > can be added by doing something to a spring, but I don't remember very > well > and this could be just my doddering brain. At any rate, I didn't do > anything > like that, and the car handles bumps about as well as I would want from a > hardcore minimalist two-seater sportscar with power under the hood and > nuts > behind the wheel.B _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sat Jun 20 08:22:51 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 07:22:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Kumho's for TR6 Message-ID: <108702.79548.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I've been trying to decipher my way through tirerack.com's website for new tires for my TR6. Some listers have recommends Kumho's. I am considering Kumhos Ecsta ASX's in 205/65-15. They list it as ultra-high performance all-season for $53 each. Does anyone have experience with these or have other recommendations? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 20 08:32:19 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 07:32:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090620143219801.FPMC4077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > hop down to the motorcycle store for some thicker fork oil..comes in > various viscosities. Best to look for a shop that caters somewhat to the Harley crowd. Japanese sport bikes use even thinner fork oil than Triumphs. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jun 20 08:51:22 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 07:51:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Kumho's for TR6 In-Reply-To: <108702.79548.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <108702.79548.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <56041C428D5A49678E48A06AF7A7C0E1@joepentiumnew> I am running the Ecsta Supra's on my Honda Powered Spit and have been very pleased with them. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 7:23 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Kumho's for TR6 I've been trying to decipher my way through tirerack.com's website for new tires for my TR6. Some listers have recommends Kumho's. I am considering Kumhos Ecsta ASX's in 205/65-15. They list it as ultra-high performance all-season for $53 each. Does anyone have experience with these or have other recommendations? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From thebujas at comcast.net Sat Jun 20 09:18:00 2009 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:18:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] gas gage In-Reply-To: Message-ID: oliver wrote: > the gas gage goes left when i turn the car off, and then goes to > 1/4 when i turn the car on. period. irrespective of how much > gas is in the tank. just all of a sudden as far as i can tell. > > what do i look for? where do i start trouble shooting? As already mentioned, I'd look first at the temperature gauge to see if it is also reading consistently high or consistently low. If so, then replace the voltage stabilizer on the back of the speedometer. You should see battery voltage pulses at the light green wire if you have an OE unit, or a steady state 10V if you have a new voltage regulator style. You should not see a steady state battery voltage reading or pulses of less than battery voltage on the LG wire. If the temp gauge is normal, look at the fuel tank sending unit. It will typically have a resistance of 30 ohms at full, and 330 ohms at empty. You should be able to measure this at the sending unit where the green-black wire is connected, or at the connector next to the hood release cable at the top of the driver's side A-post, or at the gauge itself. You may have a float that has filled with fuel and is now a sinker. To fix this, you'll have to remove the sending unit and replace the float. The British Motoring Club of New Orleans had this on their Tech Tips page at: http://www.bmcno.org/tech%20tips/techtip.htm FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT- If your fuel gauge never reads above empty, the most common cause is that the sending unit plastic float has cracked and filled with fuel. Instead of spending $50 for a replacement of the entire unit, you can get a brass float of the same dimensions from your local Ford dealer for about $10. The part number is COAZ-9202-B. When you have the sending unit out of the tank, measure the resistance on the terminal to "ground". An analog meter with a needle is the best way to observe this. If you don't have one, connect the sending unit to the wiring in your TR6, turn the ignition on and watch the fuel gauge. Move the arm and watch the ohmmeter (or the fuel gauge). You should see a smooth resistance change from approximately 30 ohms full to 330 ohms empty as you move the arm from one extreme to the other. There should be no shorts or opens in the sending unit - if so, you'll need to replace the sending unit. Let us know what you find. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jun 20 09:22:37 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:22:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] gas gage References: <4A3C2ADE.17298.2B3CC96@localhost> Message-ID: <001b01c9f1ba$f31c77b0$250110ac@ranteer.local> thanks for all your responses! the temp gage appears to work fine, so i guess its a sending unit problem. which means i need to pull the tank. which is probably more than i want to do here at the hotel and all in all, of the four gages (temp, ammeter, oil pressures, and gas gage), that's probably the least valuable when driving the car. unfortunately, on this same trip, somewhat before the gage, the speedo/odometer also quit working. i checked the connection at the speedo, and its ok. i plan to disconnect it and see if the cable moves today. so, as luck would have it, i have neither odometer nor gas gage. makes life fun!!!!! but i do have a flashlight and a newly acquired "dip stick" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: ; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 11:18 PM Subject: Re: [TR] gas gage > On 19 Jun 2009 at 23:01, oliver wrote: > >> the gas gage goes left when i turn the car off, and then goes to 1/4 when >> i >> turn the car on. period. irrespective of how much gas is in the tank. >> just >> all of a sudden as far as i can tell. >> >> what do i look for? where do i start trouble shooting? > > Well, gas goes through the carburettor, right? And 90% of all > carburettor problems are electrical. So your problem is electrical. > Really. Maybe a short or a break in the line to the fuel sender, > though it hard to imagine it being consistent like that. Maybe poor > connections? Could be a busted sender, most likely. > > If you pull the wire off the sender does it make any difference in > the gauge reading? > > -- From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Jun 20 09:53:54 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 08:53:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Kumho's for TR6 In-Reply-To: <108702.79548.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <108702.79548.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have those same tires on my TR250! I really like them, they seem to be sort of 'sticky', vs. hard so they grip the road well. They look great too. Only have about 3.5k miles on them so can't comment on wear just yet. One of the spec's that impressed me was the tread wear vs. temperature rating, very important here in AZ! Bought them on the Tire Rack web site, they arrived in 3 or 4 days. The Goodyear store near our house was glad to mount and balance them on my KN Mags. Of course NFI and YMMV! Regards, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 7:23 AM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Kumho's for TR6 I've been trying to decipher my way through tirerack.com's website for new tires for my TR6. Some listers have recommends Kumho's. I am considering Kumhos Ecsta ASX's in 205/65-15. They list it as ultra-high performance all-season for $53 each. Does anyone have experience with these or have other recommendations? TIA, Bill in Tehachapi Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jun 20 10:40:27 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 10:40:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] gas gage In-Reply-To: <001b01c9f1ba$f31c77b0$250110ac@ranteer.local> References: <4A3C2ADE.17298.2B3CC96@localhost> <001b01c9f1ba$f31c77b0$250110ac@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <15B5E248063B4353B2D7E5C4BB27F2D3@bboffice> Best gas gauge is the dip stick, approximately 1 gallon per inch, I went a year this way. Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 9:23 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' Subject: Re: [TR] gas gage thanks for all your responses! the temp gage appears to work fine, so i guess its a sending unit problem. which means i need to pull the tank. which is probably more than i want to do here at the hotel and all in all, of the four gages (temp, ammeter, oil pressures, and gas gage), that's probably the least valuable when driving the car. unfortunately, on this same trip, somewhat before the gage, the speedo/odometer also quit working. i checked the connection at the speedo, and its ok. i plan to disconnect it and see if the cable moves today. so, as luck would have it, i have neither odometer nor gas gage. makes life fun!!!!! but i do have a flashlight and a newly acquired "dip stick" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: ; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2009 11:18 PM Subject: Re: [TR] gas gage > On 19 Jun 2009 at 23:01, oliver wrote: > >> the gas gage goes left when i turn the car off, and then goes to 1/4 when >> i >> turn the car on. period. irrespective of how much gas is in the tank. >> just >> all of a sudden as far as i can tell. >> >> what do i look for? where do i start trouble shooting? > > Well, gas goes through the carburettor, right? And 90% of all > carburettor problems are electrical. So your problem is electrical. > Really. Maybe a short or a break in the line to the fuel sender, > though it hard to imagine it being consistent like that. Maybe poor > connections? Could be a busted sender, most likely. > > If you pull the wire off the sender does it make any difference in > the gauge reading? > > -- This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From kkealty at rogers.com Sat Jun 20 12:48:30 2009 From: kkealty at rogers.com (KEVIN KEALTY) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 14:48:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 liners In-Reply-To: <1245283892.3517.132.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> <1245283892.3517.132.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <02b101c9f1d7$b4aa92b0$1dffb810$@com> Hi all. I am having no luck removing the cylinder liners from the block. Between using an air-hammer and a hammer and chisel I have managed to get one liner up about 1/2 inch above the surface of the block. I thought it would get easier, but it hasn't. The front of the car is on stands, so I can't get that good a hammer-swing from the bottom. I am thinking of having someone weld an old bolt or scrap of metal to the top of the liner and use that to try to pull it out. I REALLY don't want to remove the engine. Any ideas? Thanks, Kevin '62 TR3B From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Jun 20 13:56:10 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 12:56:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 liners In-Reply-To: <02b101c9f1d7$b4aa92b0$1dffb810$@com> References: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain><1245283892.3517.132.camel@localhost.localdomain> <02b101c9f1d7$b4aa92b0$1dffb810$@com> Message-ID: <66CF2C402D2A4CBCA98D8EB3C8133458@JimofficePC> Kevin, I definitely would recommend removing the engine from the car! The reason you can't get the liners out is rust and crud from close to 50 years of DPO neglect. At least that was the case with my '58 TR3 that I restored, there was so much crud behind the liner of cylinder #4 that it was all I could do to drive the liner out when the engine was upside down on the floor! I had it on the garage floor with some large blocks of wood to raise the block up for clearance and used a 2 X 4 to drive them out, it was not easy. You will also need to have the block 'hot-tanked' to get rid of all the deposits, and crud that you won't be able to scrape out. Trust me, you will get a better job on the rebuild with the block out of the car!! Regards and good luck, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KEVIN KEALTY Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:48 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 liners Hi all. I am having no luck removing the cylinder liners from the block. Between using an air-hammer and a hammer and chisel I have managed to get one liner up about 1/2 inch above the surface of the block. I thought it would get easier, but it hasn't. The front of the car is on stands, so I can't get that good a hammer-swing from the bottom. I am thinking of having someone weld an old bolt or scrap of metal to the top of the liner and use that to try to pull it out. I REALLY don't want to remove the engine. Any ideas? Thanks, Kevin '62 TR3B Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From dlylis at gmail.com Sat Jun 20 14:08:56 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 16:08:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 liners In-Reply-To: <66CF2C402D2A4CBCA98D8EB3C8133458@JimofficePC> References: <1245262960.3517.121.camel@localhost.localdomain> <1245283892.3517.132.camel@localhost.localdomain> <02b101c9f1d7$b4aa92b0$1dffb810$@com> <66CF2C402D2A4CBCA98D8EB3C8133458@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <2a7657b60906201308r75cfd84ube915d28d261346b@mail.gmail.com> Removing the motor is much easier than anything your have described so far. On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 3:56 PM, Jim Bauder wrote: > Kevin, > > I definitely would recommend removing the engine from the car! > > The reason you can't get the liners out is rust and crud from close to 50 > years > of DPO neglect. At least that was the case with my '58 TR3 that I restored, > there was so much crud behind the liner of cylinder #4 that it was all I > could > do to drive the liner out when the engine was upside down on the floor! I > had it > on the garage floor with some large blocks of wood to raise the block up > for > clearance and used a 2 X 4 to drive them out, it was not easy. You will > also > need to have the block 'hot-tanked' to get rid of all the deposits, and > crud > that you won't be able to scrape out. > > Trust me, you will get a better job on the rebuild with the block out of > the > car!! > > Regards and good luck, > > Jim > Jim Bauder > 480-309-9525 > '68 TR250 CD47L > Scottsdale, AZ > http://www.triumphowners.com/647 > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of KEVIN KEALTY > Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:48 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3 liners > > Hi all. > > I am having no luck removing the cylinder liners from the block. Between > using > an air-hammer and a hammer and chisel I have managed to get one liner up > about > 1/2 inch above the surface of the block. I thought it would get easier, > but it > hasn't. The front of the car is on stands, so I can't get that good a > hammer-swing from the bottom. I am thinking of having someone weld an old > bolt > or scrap of metal to the top of the liner and use that to try to pull it > out. I > REALLY don't want to remove the engine. > > Any ideas? > Thanks, > > Kevin > '62 TR3B > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From allegrorover at mac.com Sat Jun 20 14:23:27 2009 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 16:23:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] 3rd brake light Message-ID: <974E8118-3C1C-4477-BA83-3F7C2D2280D4@mac.com> List, I have finally completed my 3rd brake light set-up. I'm not sure if everyone would like this set-up but it works great. A little bit of a pain getting the light hung under the roll bar. My biggest problem is still trying to get a lens for the light, I have had two of them so far from Moss and the lens was cracked on both of them. Click on the link and you should be able to see a few photos. http://gallery.me.com/allegrorover#100922 Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Jun 20 15:58:51 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 15:58:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity Drive kickoff! Message-ID: <4A3D5B9B.5080107@tscusa.org> It's TIME for the Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity Drive kickoff! Hello All, The TTA drive kicks off this coming Saturday 27 June 2009 at GrassRoots Motorsports offices in Holly Hill Florida, 9-11 am. Check for directions at [classicmotorsports.net ] I will be there to make sure Joe Pawlak and the STTAG transport crew lets go of the keys ... Also, keep up-to-date on the destinations and progress for the drive on the TTA web site [triumphtransamerica.org.uk ] or sign up for the email list at [triumphtransamerica.org.uk ] for daily updates. I'll be setting up a Twitter link soon so you can get on the spot updates from folks along the route. Look for notices for video links on You-Tube. If you take a video of John and the STTAG in your local area, please upload the video and or photo shoot to You-Tube, and title the video with "TTA 2009 Charity Drive" followed by your town/City/club name & Date. Something like - "TTA 2009 Charity Drive - Climbs Pikes Peak w/ Colorado Northern British Car Club 22 Aug 2009" Remember to add a video of each hand off between your clubs with your club banners displayed! (if anyone on the Triumph list could let me know they are seeing this, I would appreciate your response. Thanks! Cheers! Glenn Merrell TTA North American Coordinator From dlylis at gmail.com Sat Jun 20 16:16:18 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 18:16:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] 3rd brake light In-Reply-To: <974E8118-3C1C-4477-BA83-3F7C2D2280D4@mac.com> References: <974E8118-3C1C-4477-BA83-3F7C2D2280D4@mac.com> Message-ID: <2a7657b60906201516w1d896dag9b23d6d8efdbb1ab@mail.gmail.com> I bought this unit while at the Stowe car show about four years ago and only mounted it last year. I replaced the lift the dot studs with 10/32 stainless machine screws and made the bracket to hold the third brake light. The bracket is held on with stainless washers and stainless acorn nuts. It presents a small challenge when removing the hood stick cover and installing the top, but nothing I can't deal with. The sense of knowing that the SUV or pickup behind me can actually see my brake lights is worth the bother, to me. If I were to do this again I would use the lift the dot fasteners as well so it just snaps into place, but that would require an extra long lift the dot stud. Just another challenge. BTW I also replaced the pressure brake switch with a mechanical switch which lights the brake lights at the slightest movement of the brake pedal. I also put an additional circuit to the brake lights (3) with a toggle switch and flasher that gives me emergency flashers (rear only). http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/P6201155.jpg On Sat, Jun 20, 2009 at 4:23 PM, Anthony Cascio wrote: > List, > I have finally completed my 3rd brake light set-up. > I'm not sure if everyone would like this set-up but it works great. > A little bit of a pain getting the light hung under the roll bar. > My biggest problem is still trying to get a lens for the light, I have had > two of them so far from Moss and the lens was cracked on both of them. > Click on the link and you should be able to see a few photos. > > > http://gallery.me.com/allegrorover#100922 > > > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > allegrorover at mac.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Jun 20 17:25:09 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 19:25:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] electric fuel valve recommendation References: <974E8118-3C1C-4477-BA83-3F7C2D2280D4@mac.com> <2a7657b60906201516w1d896dag9b23d6d8efdbb1ab@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Can anybody point me to a link for a good electric solenoid valve for fuel shutoff? I've geen getting some gas leakage through my carbs into the sump on my TR6. I checked out the fuel pump and it certainly seems that the diaphragm is good, so I suspect a carb float valve. It occurred to me that this would be a good time to fit a solenoid valve to add safety and some anti-theft help. I'll find the original problem too of course, but I was amazed at how fast the sump filled. Cheers, Mark 1972 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 20 23:30:05 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 22:30:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 liners In-Reply-To: <02b101c9f1d7$b4aa92b0$1dffb810$@com> Message-ID: <20090621053005976.TKVJ4077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > I am having no luck removing the cylinder liners from the block. Between > using an air-hammer and a hammer and chisel Hammer and chisel ??? Either you're being very gentle, or the liner should be breaking by now! What works for me is a 'drift' that I made from a length of 3/4" iron water pipe about 12" long, with an ordinary pipe cap on one end, and a brass hex cap (with a flat top) on the other end. Just like walking a bearing race out, you work your way around the edge of the liner from below, with fairly major blows from a 5 lb sledge hammer. But I have found liners that were so badly rusted in place that the only way to get them out was to break them. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 20 23:52:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 22:52:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] electric fuel valve recommendation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090621055201254.TOCH4077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > Can anybody point me to a link for a good electric solenoid valve for fuel > shutoff? How about this one? http://store.partsfortrucks.net/futasevanoam.html Just cap off the "normally open" port. Randall From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Sun Jun 21 00:24:13 2009 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 23:24:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <28372124BD434FD18552801E83BC0E4D@aitinc.local> References: <8661DD8A3A87469B86339D7F1F28C046@JimofficePC><443BDA18-C64F-4973-BCC9-9B4B19C73C5D@141.com><3ABFFF3ABDE84C57B0DAE414CD09C69A@userb38463fba5> <90DA56B697484546B920CA06D9638540@rwa.local> <28372124BD434FD18552801E83BC0E4D@aitinc.local> Message-ID: I replaced the fuel pump and it all went well thanks to some great advice. This list is an amazing resource. With a little less than 1/2 a tank I jacked the front up and the inlet pipe didn't leak at all when I removed it. I used the socket combo recommended by www.jmwagnersales.com . I wasn't sure I could get enough power in there to remove the nut, but it actually came off fairly easily. Thanks for the help & I hope everyone has a great Father's Day tomorrow. Roger '60 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: Terry Geiger [mailto:tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com] Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 9:43 AM To: Roger Wilson; 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel Pump Roger, If the tank isn't full, you should be able to elevate the front of the car high enough (using jack stands or ramps) to stop fuel from feeding via gravity. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Wilson" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2009 11:30 AM Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump >I am going to be replacing the mechanical fuel pump on my TR3 this weekend. > >>From what I can tell, the pump is gravity fed and lower than the gas tank > and that I will need to drain the tank first. I think that I have seen > shut-offs at the frame below the pump on some 3's, but either it was > removed > by a PO or it was never there. I have a TR4 engine and it may have been > removed with the switch. > > Does anyone have any advice on how to do it without draining the tank? I > have my Craftsman 1/4" drive socket setup ready to go. > > Thanks, > Roger Wilson > '60 TR3 > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4168 (20090618) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4174 (20090620) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sun Jun 21 08:56:12 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 10:56:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] electric fuel valve recommendation References: <20090621055201254.TOCH4077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: Hi Randall: That would work, but with 3/8" ID pipes I figure the whole thing is 5" long. Sort of huge for the simple application I had in mind. Not to mention all the adaptors to go from my standard 1/8" TR6 piping would make it even larger. However, I'll bet I could find a 1/8" version out there. Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of Randall Sent: Sun 21/06/2009 1:52 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] electric fuel valve recommendation > Can anybody point me to a link for a good electric solenoid valve for fuel > shutoff? How about this one? http://store.partsfortrucks.net/futasevanoam.html Just cap off the "normally open" port. Randall From fishplate at charter.net Sun Jun 21 09:14:22 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 11:14:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] electric fuel valve recommendation In-Reply-To: References: <20090621055201254.TOCH4077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <6fDl1c00G5Bccag05fDljK.@charter.net> At 10:56 AM 6/21/2009, Mark Hooper wrote: >However, I'll bet I could find a 1/8" version out there. Maybe here? https://www.altfuel.com/solenoids.htm Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 21 10:10:26 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 09:10:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] electric fuel valve recommendation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090621161027097.GFSD20969@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> > That would work, but with 3/8" ID pipes I figure the whole thing is 5" > long. Yeah, mine is about that long. But there's lots of room on my TRs above the rear axle off to the side of the differential, so it's not a problem. Perhaps a TR6 is tighter down there. > Not to mention all the > adaptors to go from my standard 1/8" TR6 piping would make it even larger. That's odd. The TR3s use 5/16" od tubing from the tank, ISTR the Stag does too. 1/8" seems terribly small to me. Do they no longer sell the little rubber sections with 5/16" on one end and 3/8" on the other? They used to come packaged with some brands of Dodge/Plymouth fuel filters, so the same filter would fit cars with either 3/8 or 5/16 lines. Randall From chandler.rick at comcast.net Sun Jun 21 14:14:06 2009 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 13:14:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 liners Message-ID: Kevin, Include me as another voice recommending pulling the engine. Preparation time is a few hours, mostly in removing the bell housing fasteners. Give the block to a good hot tank guy and he'll give you back five pieces; a clean block and four rusty liners. If he's really good, he'll replace all of the plugs and the cam bushing as well. The new liners will go in without effort. There is a certain peace of mind that comes from starting a renovation with a clean and inspected block. Rick in Seattle 1960 TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 21 16:00:13 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 15:00:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 liners In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090621220012777.MMWC20969@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> > Preparation > time is a few hours, Man, you guys are optimists! First time I pulled the front apron on my TR3A, it literally took me a month of Sundays. There's a whole bunch of bolts that have to come out, and they have their threads exposed to road dirt, mud and salt; with the nuts in areas that are difficult to reach at best. I wound up only torching one bolt, but just the repair from that took more than a few hours. Today I'd probably grind the head off instead, and then replace the captive nut once it was apart. Still not a quick task when there are more than 20 bolts involved. Randall From dlylis at gmail.com Sun Jun 21 21:01:50 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 23:01:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 liners In-Reply-To: <20090621220012777.MMWC20969@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> References: <20090621220012777.MMWC20969@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <2a7657b60906212001n55d25b45yc34c9c68c1f48613@mail.gmail.com> Apparently with all this free time on my hands my memory is failing. Removing the motor is easy. Removing the apron definitely is not. Although, it s probably still easier than swinging a 5 pound hammer upwards to drive out the liner. I change my vote. On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 6:00 PM, Randall wrote: > > Preparation > > time is a few hours, > > Man, you guys are optimists! First time I pulled the front apron on my > TR3A, it literally took me a month of Sundays. There's a whole bunch of > bolts that have to come out, and they have their threads exposed to road > dirt, mud and salt; with the nuts in areas that are difficult to reach at > best. I wound up only torching one bolt, but just the repair from that > took > more than a few hours. > > Today I'd probably grind the head off instead, and then replace the captive > nut once it was apart. Still not a quick task when there are more than 20 > bolts involved. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From thebujas at comcast.net Sun Jun 21 21:12:51 2009 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 22:12:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] TTA Stag delivery route and photo-video upload information In-Reply-To: <4A3D5FBB.4050602@qwest.net> Message-ID: Cross-posted to the TTA and Triumphs mail lists: Joe Pawlak and several members of ISOA will be leaving the Chicago area at approximately 10:30 CDT on Thursday, June 28 to deliver "uncle jack" to the Grassroots Motorsport / Classic Motorsports HQ near Daytona Beach, Florida. The current route has them heading south on I-57, then taking I-24 east into Kentucky and Tennessee, then south on I-75 into Georgia and Florida, then I-10 and I-95 into Daytona Beach. We are planning to include trip updates on the TTA website at: http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ In addition, we have established a Flickr account where pictures and video of the Triumph TransAmerica Charity Drive can be uploaded. You'll have to set up an individual Flickr account to upload the photos and videos you shoot, and then join the Triumph TransAmerica group to be able to transfer this material to the group. Once you've established your Yahoo and Flickr sign-ons, you may visit the Triumph TransAmerica group at: http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica/ All material should include a "Triumph TransAmerica" tag. Other tags should describe the general location of where the picture or video was taken, along with the name of the person that took them. Note: Each user can upload 100 MB of photos and 2 videos per month. Choose your pictures wisely to ensure you've got the best pictures -before- you upload them, since if your photos are 2MB each, you won't be able to upload any more than 50 pictures per month. You should also "tag" the pictures you upload with a map location so everyone can tell where your pictures were taken. Since this group is available to anyone who chooses to join it, I have set the group up for moderation to prevent inappropriate material from being immediately made available to everyone. Material uploaded to the group should be available to all within a day or two. Look on the http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica/ website for examples on how the existing photos have been given tags for "Triumph TransAmerica", the photographer's name, and the location (both in words and on the map) of where the picture was taken. The Flickr group site also has a blog where you can discuss the photos of the events happening on each day of the Charity Drive. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL From dlylis at gmail.com Sun Jun 21 21:09:37 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 23:09:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A running temp Message-ID: <2a7657b60906212009m366ab16ek82fd7692826c04d6@mail.gmail.com> Summer is here in FL and the temp has been in the 90s with the heat index as high as 110. When I drive my TR at 50 - 60 mph the running temp stays at 180 - 185. When I get up to 70 - 75 mph the temp goes up to 190 - 195. Sitting at a light it has not gone over 195. When I dismantled the motor the thermostat bypass was plugged (intentionally) and I did not replug it when I put on new hoses. I frankly do not remember if the thermostat is one of those skirted ones that cover the bypass. Would I do well to plug that hose again and will it have any effect on the running temp? From twr at frii.com Sun Jun 21 21:24:24 2009 From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond) Date: Sun, 21 Jun 2009 21:24:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers Message-ID: <1245641064.3517.169.camel@localhost.localdomain> Thanks to all that responded to my inquiries about the TR3 lever shocks. One thing I'm still not clear on is what the consensus is on the stiffness of the rear suspension as a whole. Some seemed to suggest a softer ride might be desirable, and attainable by greasing the leaf springs. Others commented that a stiffer shock response can be attained by switching to a higher viscosity oil in the shocks. So, I'm interested to hear what others think on this topic. Are TR3's too stiff, or not stiff enough? I guess it depends on personal preference and what kind of driving you're planning on doing, but I'm still curious to hear what people think. After all, I've never actually ridden in a TR3 yet. :) Todd Richmond Fort Collins, Colorado 1959 TR3A TS54425L From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jun 22 06:25:32 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:25:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Wiper Blade Info Request Message-ID: List, If anyone on the List has (or has a friend) with an MGB from 1970 & later with the 3 windscreen wiper blades, would you mind measuring the length of one of the blades (not the arms) and let me know what it is? Thanks to some rather wet weather in West Virginia for TRA last week, I found out that my wiper blades are striking the windscreen molding rubber at the top of the windscreen during use. They just rub enough during their sweep across the windscreen to skip some coverage which kinda becomes an issue when it's raining hard. The blades I have are about 1/8" longer than what I've measured on other TR6s to be correct for the car. I think they were fitted in 2002; they were stock replacements but with all of the foreign made parts out there, it's possible that they're out of spec. Anyway, I had an idea of fitting 2 blades of the 3 wiper blade MGBs to solve the problem so I wouldn't have to order and return new TR6 wiper blades until I found something that fits. Thanks, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823273x1201398689/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Jun 22 06:43:08 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:43:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers References: <1245641064.3517.169.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: Todd, this is a 60 year old "Sports-Car", with 60 year old mechanical designs, enjoy it, anyone can buy a "Miata", the beauty and fun are in a T/R !!!! ========================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Richmond" To: Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 11:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers > Thanks to all that responded to my inquiries about the > TR3 lever shocks. One thing I'm still not clear on is > what the consensus is on the stiffness of the rear > suspension as a whole. Some seemed to suggest a softer > ride might be desirable, and attainable by greasing the > leaf springs. Others commented that a stiffer shock > response can be attained by switching to a higher > viscosity oil in the shocks. > > So, I'm interested to hear what others think on this > topic. Are TR3's too stiff, or not stiff enough? I > guess it depends on personal preference and what kind > of driving you're planning on doing, but I'm still > curious to hear what people think. After all, I've > never actually ridden in a TR3 yet. :) > > Todd Richmond > Fort Collins, Colorado > 1959 TR3A TS54425L > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dlylis at gmail.com Mon Jun 22 07:14:18 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 09:14:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers In-Reply-To: <1245641064.3517.169.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1245641064.3517.169.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: <2a7657b60906220614y1ca2d8cbx740b033b0ca20a0e@mail.gmail.com> Of course, YMMV. Before giving an excessive amount of time to the rear shocks I would recommend carefully considering the amount of rear suspension travel in the underslung chassis. The TR3 is real stiff in the rear anyway. I don't know that you are going to get the bounce that you get with coils. Not to say that the shocks don't effect the ride, but IMHO not THAT much. On Sun, Jun 21, 2009 at 11:24 PM, Todd Richmond wrote: > Thanks to all that responded to my inquiries about the > TR3 lever shocks. One thing I'm still not clear on is > what the consensus is on the stiffness of the rear > suspension as a whole. Some seemed to suggest a softer > ride might be desirable, and attainable by greasing the > leaf springs. Others commented that a stiffer shock > response can be attained by switching to a higher > viscosity oil in the shocks. > > So, I'm interested to hear what others think on this > topic. Are TR3's too stiff, or not stiff enough? I > guess it depends on personal preference and what kind > of driving you're planning on doing, but I'm still > curious to hear what people think. After all, I've > never actually ridden in a TR3 yet. :) > > Todd Richmond > Fort Collins, Colorado > 1959 TR3A TS54425L > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dlylis at gmail.com Mon Jun 22 07:23:25 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 09:23:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A running temp Message-ID: <2a7657b60906220623q7077bf90p7289b5840c6e0565@mail.gmail.com> Thanks to those who responded to me on this issue. I got my TR back on the road in November and through the winter (max low temp 50 degrees) the car seemed to run cool topping out south of 180. This continued well through the spring with the temps in the 80s and would top out at 185 if left to idle for a long time. Now that the recorded temp is at 95 and the heat index is at 110 I have seen this creep up. My next step here is to not assume anything and check it out with an infrared temp gauge to see if I can confirm the gauge reading. Although the motor is at 190 the seats are at 220 and that is now something I need to deal with as well! From wquincy at cox.net Mon Jun 22 07:56:49 2009 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:56:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank Message-ID: <35078556-8DE2-4761-9A02-D8AF938EECB7@cox.net> Greetings Listers, I find myself in the market for a new gas tank for my 60000 S/N TR3. The best price I found is the ebay offering from www.jaguarbyjorge.com. Any one out there with experience with this vendor? Item number: 370215346748 Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Jun 22 09:20:25 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:20:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 heater spring clamps needed and Trans America run Message-ID: <615198788.7646211245684025767.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I have all the heater parts that came with the new project car,BUT the three spring clamps that hold it all together. Anyone want to part out a heater???? Or have one with a bad core that they could part with.Or does anyone (Randall) have an idea of getting around this problem? I was thinking that the top and bottom may be able to be safety wired together -- just a thought. Let's see what the list says.... John Mac and his son will be arriving Friday, Joe and the car also on Friday, Glen Merrill on Thursday, I think. The kickoff will be at Grassroots Motorsports headquarters near Daytona Beach Saturday morning at 9 anyothers planning to attend?? Thanks in advance Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 22 09:45:28 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:45:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 heater spring clamps needed and Trans America run In-Reply-To: <615198788.7646211245684025767.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090622154528386.DWIQ24524@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Or does anyone (Randall) have an idea of getting around > this problem? Well, now that you mention it ... What I did was to bend some brackets from steel strap (perhaps 1/2" by 3/32"). One end was a tight curve to fit into the groove on the housings; the other end stuck out at right angles for a small bolt to link them together. I needed them because I was adding a spacer between the core & lower housing, so the stock clamps wouldn't fit. The homebrew clamps worked reasonably well; but the bigger fan blade didn't help much so I never put the whole mess into a car. Even with the various improvements I tried, the stock heater never worked all that well for me. I've since moved to a warmer climate and just removed the heater (makes working under the dash a whole lot easier!) but if I were trying to upgrade today, I would just install the 'box' heater from a Spitfire. However Tom, if you'll give me your address, I'll send you some stock clips. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jun 22 12:34:59 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 12:34:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) Message-ID: Good morning List, I just got my L-T-D peg kit from TRF, #RFK923, and notice that there are no washers. Interestingly, TRF does not provide any washers to go under the pegs, whether machine or wood screw shanks. Moss does show that there is a leather washer, #435-515, under all the pegs for all commissions numbers. I called TRF and they offered no explanation but it would seems to me, and TRF agreed, that you would need something to protect the paint where these pegs are on the body and to keep from twisting the vinyl/leather where the pegs are used to secure the capping rails. Just putting this out there as I would hate for someone to mess up a nice paint or re-cover this way, I am going to get some washers before I proceed with my installation. As always, comments and advice are very welcome! Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 22 12:36:35 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:36:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Shock Absorbers In-Reply-To: <1245641064.3517.169.camel@localhost.localdomain> References: <1245641064.3517.169.camel@localhost.localdomain> Message-ID: > So, I'm interested to hear what others think on this > topic. Are TR3's too stiff, or not stiff enough? Big complicated topic, IMO. First of all, there are many different kinds of 'stiffness'; for example friction between the leaves is not the same as high spring rate, which is not the same as damping rate from the shocks. IMO, anything you can do to reduce friction in the spring is good. I've even tried putting bearing needles between the leaves (which I understand was an old hot rodder's trick from the 40's) which I felt worked very well until the needles fell back out. If I ever have the project TR3's springs off the car, I plan to try putting Teflon between the leaves for the same reason. Might be that if you get rid of enough friction; it will need more damping than stock. Mine was definitely a bit bouncy with the needles, but the 20 weight fork oil in the shocks seemed adequate at the time (or maybe it was because the needles fell out before I made another decision). The stock spring rate seems pretty good; although here again a little more rate wouldn't be a bad thing once the friction is reduced. On the TR3A, I wanted more rear roll stiffness so I installed a rear sway bar (in combination with a front bar, of course). I wanted to eliminate that sudden transition from understeer to severe oversteer, when the axle hits the frame on the inside. (This is the part that Car & Driver referred to as "Throwing up its hands and bumbling off backwards".) But it does definitely depend on where and how you drive; the extra roll stiffness does increase wheelspin in hard turns which is a big no-no on the track. The only time I had the TR3A on the track, loosening the rear bar and cranking down hard on the front knocked most of a second off my third run (of course increasing experience might have had something to do with that as well). So my suggestion is to put it together stock first, and then see which area needs improvement for your driving habits. If any. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 22 12:41:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:41:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A running temp In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60906212009m366ab16ek82fd7692826c04d6@mail.gmail.com> References: <2a7657b60906212009m366ab16ek82fd7692826c04d6@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <3909074C79714F808363839C643021F0@jdnet.deere.com> > Would I do well to plug that > hose again and will it have any effect on the running temp? Results are mixed on that question. When my TR3A developed severe overheating problems, blocking the bypass made no difference at all. Later tests after the defective radiator was replaced also seemed to show no difference. But others have reported that it did help on their car; so I guess it depends on what the exact problem is. Note that it's a bad idea to block the flow entirely, you want some water moving even when the thermostat is closed. Otherwise the cylinder head will get very hot before the Tstat opens, and the sudden inrush of cool water can cause the cast iron to crack. One solution is to only restrict the flow through the bypass, not block it entirely. Since I live in a warmer climate I went the other way for maximum cooling, and drilled a hole in the thermostat instead. It causes a slower warm-up, though. -- Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 22 12:51:55 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 11:51:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <14C71540E4724B63969A5881AE8CDEB7@jdnet.deere.com> > Moss does show that there is a > leather washer, #435-515, under all the pegs for all commissions numbers. I don't doubt that; but the factory did not put them there. They are not shown in the factory parts catalogue, nor have I ever seen them on original cars. These were cheap sports cars, not show cars. -- Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 22 13:23:12 2009 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:23:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) References: <14C71540E4724B63969A5881AE8CDEB7@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <041a01c9f36e$f0c31a40$6401a8c0@STATION6> I used nylon washers purchased at Lowes. Worked perfectly. Have had a few on and off without paint damage. (fresh paint too) They have all sizes and are fairly inexpensive considering the quantity needed. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: ; Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 2:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) >> Moss does show that there is a >> leather washer, #435-515, under all the pegs for all commissions numbers. > > I don't doubt that; but the factory did not put them there. They are not > shown in the factory parts catalogue, nor have I ever seen them on > original > cars. > > These were cheap sports cars, not show cars. > > -- Randall From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jun 22 13:38:49 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:38:49 EDT Subject: [TR] TEST - Pls delete Message-ID: test **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823273x1201398689/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jun 22 13:46:24 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:46:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Off The Air Again! Message-ID: I seem to have dropped off the List again - I think I'm transmitting OK but I'm not getting any emails from other List members.......can some kind soul put me back into full duplex mode!!?? P.S. yes - I'm an AOL user. Thanks, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823273x1201398689/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jun 22 15:34:27 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 17:34:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Off The Air Again! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We're getting your messages...... Best advice is to use the 6-Pack & BCF Forums or get a Gmail address if you want to get Mail List messages. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chip19474 at aol.com Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 3:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Off The Air Again! I seem to have dropped off the List again - I think I'm transmitting OK but I'm not getting any emails from other List members.......can some kind soul put me back into full duplex mode!!?? P.S. yes - I'm an AOL user. Thanks, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823273x1201398689/aol?redir=htt p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From tr3a at comcast.net Mon Jun 22 15:48:24 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 17:48:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Off The Air Again! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Never figured out why aol seems to have so many subscribers. It's always something with them. Ya know? On Jun 22, 2009, at 5:34 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > We're getting your messages...... Best advice is to use the 6-Pack & > BCF > Forums or get a Gmail address if you want to get Mail List messages. > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -----Original Message----- > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Off The Air Again! > > I seem to have dropped off the List again - I think I'm transmitting > OK but > I'm not getting any emails from other List members.......can some > kind soul > put me back into full duplex mode!!?? > > P.S. yes - I'm an AOL user. > > Thanks, > > Chip Krout From adcronin at ameritech.net Mon Jun 22 16:17:12 2009 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 15:17:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <492243.3696.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 6/22 I seem to recall a couple of years ago that Charles (TRF) had located some small diameter white plastic washers to go under the lift the dot pegs specifically to keep from chipping paint, etc. I would inquire again............ Regards, Dan Cronin ________________________________ From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 2:34:59 PM Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) Good morning List, I just got my L-T-D peg kit from TRF, #RFK923, and notice that there are no washers. Interestingly, TRF does not provide any washers to go under the pegs, whether machine or wood screw shanks. Moss does show that there is a leather washer, #435-515, under all the pegs for all commissions numbers. I called TRF and they offered no explanation but it would seems to me, and TRF agreed, that you would need something to protect the paint where these pegs are on the body and to keep from twisting the vinyl/leather where the pegs are used to secure the capping rails. Just putting this out there as I would hate for someone to mess up a nice paint or re-cover this way, I am going to get some washers before I proceed with my installation. As always, comments and advice are very welcome! Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Jun 22 16:25:27 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 17:25:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) References: <492243.3696.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If they're not available locally and TRF doesn't have them any more, clear plastic washers are stock aircraft parts from Aircraft Spruce - many sizes available. Karl > 6/22 > I seem to recall a couple of years ago that Charles (TRF) had located > some small diameter white plastic washers to go under the lift the dot > pegs > specifically to keep from chipping paint, etc. I would inquire > again............ From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jun 22 17:15:03 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 17:15:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) In-Reply-To: References: <492243.3696.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <371D789FE8964835997F4517823725D3@bboffice> Found some at my FLAPS. Thanks to all, Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Karl Vacek Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 4:25 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) If they're not available locally and TRF doesn't have them any more, clear plastic washers are stock aircraft parts from Aircraft Spruce - many sizes available. Karl > 6/22 > I seem to recall a couple of years ago that Charles (TRF) had located > some small diameter white plastic washers to go under the lift the dot > pegs specifically to keep from chipping paint, etc. I would inquire > again............ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From spook01 at comcast.net Mon Jun 22 17:30:58 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 23:30:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) In-Reply-To: <492243.3696.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <437607531.7902881245713458416.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> mine came from ace hardware.. ----- Original Message ----- From: "A Daniel Cronin" To: wbeech at flash.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 5:17:12 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central Subject: Re: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) 6/22 I seem to recall a couple of years ago that Charles (TRF) had located some small diameter white plastic washers to go under the lift the dot pegs specifically to keep from chipping paint, etc. B I would inquire again............ B Regards, Dan Cronin ________________________________ From: "wbeech at flash.net" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 2:34:59 PM Subject: [TR] LTD Pegs & Washers(?) Good morning List, I just got my L-T-D peg kit from TRF, #RFK923, and notice that there are no washers. B Interestingly, TRF does not provide any washers to go under the pegs, whether machine or wood screw shanks. B Moss does show that there is a leather washer, #435-515, under all the pegs for all commissions numbers. I called TRF and they offered no explanation but it would seems to me, and TRF agreed, that you would need something to protect the paint where these pegs are on the body and to keep from twisting the vinyl/leather where the pegs are used to secure the capping rails. Just putting this out there as I would hate for someone to mess up a nice paint or re-cover this way, I am going to get some washers before I proceed with my installation. As always, comments and advice are very welcome! Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO (in buckets, for sale... anyone?) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Jun 22 17:39:24 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 18:39:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] speedo failure Message-ID: <000e01c9f392$add40d60$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> has anyone else experienced a speedo failure after installing a new cable from moss? or was i just unlucky??? From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 22 18:13:29 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 00:13:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank In-Reply-To: <35078556-8DE2-4761-9A02-D8AF938EECB7@cox.net> Message-ID: <918291782.7050421245716009197.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >I find myself in the market for a new gas tank for my 60000 S/N TR3. B >The best price I found is the ebay offering from www.jaguarbyjorge.com. >Any one out there with experience with this vendor? >Item number: 370215346748 Actually, yes.B My restoration '3 came with a Spitfire gas tank mounted on wood blocks.B (Still trying to find someone to take it off my hands; it's old style.) I bought my tank from Jorge.B Fits perfect, and even better, doesn't leak (it's the small things)!B Delivered quickly, etc. You can read his customer reviews.B He's pretty good.B NFI and Your experence May Vary and all that. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire (where I haven't driven in three weeks because it's been non-stop rain) From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 22 18:28:13 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 00:28:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Cupholder In-Reply-To: <1387375796.7055881245716808669.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1729037025.7056381245716893489.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Now here's a hi-tek question. I love coffee.B I love to drive the '3.B I love to drive the '3 while drinking coffee.B Anybody have a convenient solution for a cupholder? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Mon Jun 22 18:52:18 2009 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 17:52:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Insurance Message-ID: <198672.69103.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> While visiting my insurance man today I mentioned that the price of TR 6s in general have risen in the 10 years since I got mine. I would like to up the insurance on it to a minimum of 10k. He said I'd need an appraisal, provide pictures and the odometer reading so they could track the yearly milage. The pictures are no problem. Milage; since the odometer has been broken since I got it and stuck on 48,000 I would have a hard time proving yearly milage. But like I told him I probably haven't put 300 miles on it this year and he and I have been friends for 30 years so my credibility is not in question.. Anyone know of an appraiser in the Jacksonville Florida area? I imagine he/she would assign what ever value I wanted to place on it, I dunno. John SummersJacksonville, FL'74TR6 From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jun 22 19:32:58 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 20:32:58 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Insurance Message-ID: <1860949688.334604.1245720778167.JavaMail.root@vms232.mailsrvcs.net> I ended up asking my agent what the maximum they would insure without an appraisal, and he gave me a number of $16K. That is what I ended up with. Craig Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 On Jun 22, 2009, John Summers wrote: While visiting my insurance man today I mentioned that the price of TR 6s in general have risen in the 10 years since I got mine. I would like to up the insurance on it to a minimum of 10k. He said I'd need an appraisal, provide pictures and the odometer reading so they could track the yearly milage. The pictures are no problem. Milage; since the odometer has been broken since I got it and stuck on 48,000 I would have a hard time proving yearly milage. But like I told him I probably haven't put 300 miles on it this year and he and I have been friends for 30 years so my credibility is not in question.. Anyone know of an appraiser in the Jacksonville Florida area? I imagine he/she would assign what ever value I wanted to place on it, I dunno. John SummersJacksonville, FL'74TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jun 22 20:43:19 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 22:43:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure In-Reply-To: <000e01c9f392$add40d60$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> References: <000e01c9f392$add40d60$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <72A95E76C65F49D48C35519A6EFEEFFA@BOBSNEWPC> Oliver.......... I can tell you that when I sent my speedo out to West Valley for a rebuild/calibration, the first thing Morris asked me to do was to measure the tip of the speedo cable. If it wasn't + - "X" inches he wouldn't guarantee the rebuild. If the tip is too long it can damage the speedo/tach. Mine was 1/8" too long so he rebuilt the cable for $25. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 7:39 PM To: '6-Pack'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] speedo failure has anyone else experienced a speedo failure after installing a new cable from moss? or was i just unlucky??? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Jun 22 21:11:11 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 22:11:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Cupholder References: <1729037025.7056381245716893489.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: > Now here's a hi-tek question. > > I love coffee.B I love to drive the '3.B I love to drive the '3 while > drinking coffee.B > > Anybody have a convenient solution for a cupholder? > I found an adjustable surface mount cup holder at K-Mart, i think. I mounted it on the transmission tunnel behind the shift lever. You just have to watch where you put your elbow... Mike From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jun 22 21:44:48 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 03:44:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1051765209.7596261245728688171.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "tom white" wrote: > If there is a rubber hose between the tank and the pump you can clamp > the hose > with vise grips to shut off the fuel flow. Is that really a good idea? Would that not fatigue the hose? I don't like taking chances with gasoline. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Jun 22 22:25:23 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 21:25:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Insurance In-Reply-To: <198672.69103.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <198672.69103.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4A405933.7090504@comcast.net> I was talking today with my agent about insurance for my 57 TR3. They also need an appraisal and photos. I asked them if they had any suggestions regarding appraisers. They gave me two names in my local area (sorry, Portland Oregon). I called one and found out that it only costs $75 if he comes to my house and $50 for me to take it to him. You may want to try asking your agent. Mike > Anyone know of an appraiser in the Jacksonville Florida area? I imagine > he/she would assign what ever value I wanted to place on it, I dunno. > John SummersJacksonville, FL'74TR6 From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jun 22 22:47:56 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 21:47:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Insurance In-Reply-To: <4A405933.7090504@comcast.net> References: <198672.69103.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4A405933.7090504@comcast.net> Message-ID: <238EB91F39744899900196A17EBB85E5@joepentiumnew> And if you take the car to him and pay $100.00, you will get a much better appraisal! ;) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Lang Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 9:25 PM To: John Summers Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Insurance I was talking today with my agent about insurance for my 57 TR3. They also need an appraisal and photos. I asked them if they had any suggestions regarding appraisers. They gave me two names in my local area (sorry, Portland Oregon). I called one and found out that it only costs $75 if he comes to my house and $50 for me to take it to him. You may want to try asking your agent. Mike > Anyone know of an appraiser in the Jacksonville Florida area? I imagine > he/she would assign what ever value I wanted to place on it, I dunno. > John SummersJacksonville, FL'74TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jun 23 01:41:21 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 07:41:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: <1051765209.7596261245728688171.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1051765209.7596261245728688171.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: You should not have to clamp the fuel line often enough for the vice grip teeth to damage it. Rubber is meant to be distorted and return to original shape repeatedly. Of course if you have a body clamp with no teeth that would be a better option. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now. http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1 From dlylis at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 04:58:51 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 10:58:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] Insurance In-Reply-To: <198672.69103.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <198672.69103.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Change insurance to Hagerty or Heacock. Agreed value with no appraisal unless they have changed recently. Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: John Summers Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 17:52:18 To: Subject: [TR] Insurance While visiting my insurance man today I mentioned that the price of TR 6s in general have risen in the 10 years since I got mine. I would like to up the insurance on it to a minimum of 10k. He said I'd need an appraisal, provide pictures and the odometer reading so they could track the yearly milage. The pictures are no problem. Milage; since the odometer has been broken since I got it and stuck on 48,000 I would have a hard time proving yearly milage. But like I told him I probably haven't put 300 miles on it this year and he and I have been friends for 30 years so my credibility is not in question.. Anyone know of an appraiser in the Jacksonville Florida area? I imagine he/she would assign what ever value I wanted to place on it, I dunno. John SummersJacksonville, FL'74TR6 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com http://www.team.net/archive From wensley_tr at comcast.net Tue Jun 23 06:10:32 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 08:10:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Cupholder In-Reply-To: <1729037025.7056381245716893489.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1387375796.7055881245716808669.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <1729037025.7056381245716893489.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <001101c9f3fb$9b73fae0$d25bf0a0$@net> YES!...she should be around 22 and well you know the rest Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 8:28 PM To: Triumphs list Subject: [TR] TR3 Cupholder Now here's a hi-tek question. I love coffee.B I love to drive the '3.B I love to drive the '3 while drinking coffee.B Anybody have a convenient solution for a cupholder? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Jun 23 06:31:42 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 08:31:42 EDT Subject: [TR] Change my email address Message-ID: Hello, Since I'm having trouble getting posts from the List with AOL, I've opened an account with gmail and would like to change my email address on my account to reflect the new gmail address.....can you change for me? The new gmail address is: _chip19474 at gmail.com_ (mailto:chip19474 at gmail.com) Thanks, Chip Krout **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377052x1201454391/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 23 08:20:41 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 07:20:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Change my email address In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090623142042615.LVBW24524@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Since I'm having trouble getting posts from the List with AOL, I've opened > an account with gmail and would like to change my email address on my > account to reflect the new gmail address.....can you change for me? Chip, we can't; and MJB is generally too busy to follow the list and see your request. However, you can change it yourself. Go to http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs and click on the button at the bottom, labeled "Unsubscribe or change options". Once you've logged in, you'll get a screen where you can change your email address. HTH Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Tue Jun 23 08:28:53 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 09:28:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Change my email address In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think you will need to unsubscribed and then re-subscribe. There is a link at the bottom of the posts or you can go to autox.team.net. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: Chip19474 at aol.com > Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 08:31:42 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Change my email address > > Hello, > > Since I'm having trouble getting posts from the List with AOL, I've opened > an account with gmail and would like to change my email address on my > account to reflect the new gmail address.....can you change for me? > > The new gmail address is: _chip19474 at gmail.com_ > (mailto:chip19474 at gmail.com) > > Thanks, > > Chip Krout > **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy > Steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377052x1201454391/aol?redir=http ://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun > eExcfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Jun 23 08:47:00 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 14:47:00 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Fuel Pump In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1466383090.8106361245768419999.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Slip some rubber tubing over the jaws of the vice grips and clamp away. Tom ----- You should not have to clamp the fuel line often enough for the vice grip teeth to damage it. B Rubber is meant to be distorted and return to original shape repeatedly. B Of course if you have a body clamp with no teeth that would be a better option. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Tue Jun 23 08:53:32 2009 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 07:53:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] cupholder Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F10092114@kb1.mossmotors.com> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=48947&Sort Order=1 Follow the link. I use it in my TR6 works great for all types of drinks. The bottom edge slips under the carpet. Very secure. Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 Daily Driver. From jdemuth at ties2.net Tue Jun 23 09:00:25 2009 From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 10:00:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Washers for pegs Message-ID: I found small fiber washers at the local hardware store to use instead of leather. From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Jun 23 13:22:55 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 12:22:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Insurance References: Message-ID: <000c01c9f438$0317b100$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Try Haggerty for Insurance. http://www.hagerty.com/ My '71 TR6 is insured for $20K (agreed value), full coverage as a "modern classic". Car is not a daily driver, yearly mileage under 1500. I had to provide evidence of the number of drivers in household matching other insured cars. In other words there must be a fully insured car for all drivers in the household. They wanted pictures of the car showing 4 sides and the garage where it is kept. ATTTs it! About $200. a year all done by phone and email. Insurance has been renewed no questions asked. I have no interest other than my own insurance. They do not insure my other cars. Regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441) Database version: 6.12660 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From dlylis at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 10:30:15 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 12:30:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more Message-ID: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> I found an odd thing; maybe not so odd, about my temp situation. It appeared that the slower I go the cooler the motor seems to run, by about 10 degrees. I decided to use my ruminator to see if I could put it to use to figure this out. I have tested this twice now and lets see what others think. If I am in OD at 3200 rpms my temp runs up to 190 +. Then, I drove around for about 5 miles at 3200 rpms, but in second and third gear. 180 - 185. Hmmm, thinks I. The shroud on each side of my radiator is missing. Is it possible that as I increase speed the air flow bypassing the radiator increases the pressure in the engine bay therefore slowing the flow of air from front to back through the radiator? I didn't know that the shrouds were suposed to be there as the other two 3As that I am familiar with do not have them either. I looked at another car that is original and it has them. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 23 11:31:12 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 10:31:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> References: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <51D808EF3142497D9DF4F0E534E7D9FC@jdnet.deere.com> > Is it possible that as I increase speed the air flow bypassing the > radiator > increases the pressure in the engine bay therefore slowing the flow of air > from front to back through the radiator? Could be. But don't forget that at lower, constant speeds, the engine is also making less power and so producing less heat. Power output has much more to do with heat produced than engine rpm. > I didn't know that the shrouds > were suposed to be there as the other two 3As that I am familiar with do > not > have them either. Early 3As did not have the shroud originally, it was added later by the factory to help reduce overheating. I forget the change point offhand, but it was after TS39781. However it was a factory-approved retrofit to earlier cars. Others have found that adding a 'spoiler' below the radiator can also help with cooling, by both reducing pressure behind the radiator, and directing more air into the part of the radiator below the 'shelf'. -- Randall From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Tue Jun 23 12:34:43 2009 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 14:34:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Insurance In-Reply-To: <000c01c9f438$0317b100$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <000c01c9f438$0317b100$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: I'll cast another vote for Hagerty - been with them 2 years and they are a first class outfit. Haven't had a claim, but have read testimonials from others that they are a pleasure to deal with. Reasonable rates in my opinion. They also have a great roadside assistance program (at extra cost) that I believe is better than AAA. It covers all your vehicles, not just the one(s) covered by Hagerty. Glenn 67 TR4A CTC76828LO > Try Haggerty for Insurance. http://www.hagerty.com/ From chandler.rick at comcast.net Tue Jun 23 14:44:35 2009 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 13:44:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank Message-ID: <409C91E85E84427791C4B8D78F6E43E0@ricksoffice> I bought a gas tank for my TR3A from Jorge as well. Fit perfectly, well made, didn't leak. In fact, I bought several metal parts from him since. Everything fit, and the chrome quality was excellent. His S&H is a bit steep, however. Rick in Seattle 1960 TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From tr4zest at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 15:21:08 2009 From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 17:21:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> References: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: David, when running at 80 mph (my guesstimate on 3200 rpm, 4th gear, with 22% overdrive) it isn't really surprising that you are getting warmth, if anything is off. - Are you using the best fuel available (92 or 93 octane)? - Are your plugs dusty beige/grey? Check richness settings. Lean is not good, it creates heat in the engine. - How well set is your timing? This could be a source of warmth too, if off. Do install a full shroud to the rad. Air and water work in partnership to cool your engine. Why cool the car's horns and your washer bottle with an 80 mph breeze when you could direct that airflow through the rad? Last: did you backflush the rad and block? Hope this helps, Brian On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 12:30 PM, David Lylis wrote: > I found an odd thing; maybe not so odd, about my temp situation. It > appeared that the slower I go the cooler the motor seems to run, by about > 10 > degrees. I decided to use my ruminator to see if I could put it to use to > figure this out. I have tested this twice now and lets see what others > think. If I am in OD at 3200 rpms my temp runs up to 190 +. Then, I drove > around for about 5 miles at 3200 rpms, but in second and third gear. 180 - > 185. Hmmm, thinks I. The shroud on each side of my radiator is missing. > Is it possible that as I increase speed the air flow bypassing the radiator > increases the pressure in the engine bay therefore slowing the flow of air > from front to back through the radiator? I didn't know that the shrouds > were suposed to be there as the other two 3As that I am familiar with do > not > have them either. I looked at another car that is original and it has > them. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dlylis at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 16:05:40 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 18:05:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: References: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <2a7657b60906231505t375feb25wa01766cfd7cc1005@mail.gmail.com> Brian, #1 Yes #2 Yes to plugs. I have leaned up the mixture a bit as the idle was "brap, brap ,brap" and now it runs even at idle. #3 Gotta love the Dizzy with the 'micrometer' setting. I retarded my timing until the pinging just went away. The motor is rebuild last November and completely cleaned out with new sleeves, etc. Rad recored with 'modern' core. No crank hole. If you are not in FL you have to come down here to see what world class sweating is all about. My pool is 93 degrees. 14,000 gallons of water! If I park my car in the sun the temp gauge already reads 120 degrees from cold. Not a word of a lie; I have to wear a glove to open the bonnet and hold it until I can get the prop rod in place. I made a 'spoiler' this afternoon and am now waiting on the paint to dry. BTW I have a 4.10 diff in this car. Thanks David On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 5:21 PM, Brian Jones wrote: > David, when running at 80 mph (my guesstimate on 3200 rpm, 4th gear, with > 22% overdrive) it isn't really surprising that you are getting warmth, if > anything is off. > > - Are you using the best fuel available (92 or 93 octane)? > - Are your plugs dusty beige/grey? Check richness settings. Lean is not > good, it creates heat in the engine. > - How well set is your timing? This could be a source of warmth too, if > off. > > Do install a full shroud to the rad. Air and water work in partnership to > cool your engine. Why cool the car's horns and your washer bottle with an 80 > mph breeze when you could direct that airflow through the rad? > > Last: did you backflush the rad and block? > > Hope this helps, > > Brian > > On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 12:30 PM, David Lylis wrote: > >> I found an odd thing; maybe not so odd, about my temp situation. It >> appeared that the slower I go the cooler the motor seems to run, by about >> 10 >> degrees. I decided to use my ruminator to see if I could put it to use to >> figure this out. I have tested this twice now and lets see what others >> think. If I am in OD at 3200 rpms my temp runs up to 190 +. Then, I >> drove >> around for about 5 miles at 3200 rpms, but in second and third gear. 180 >> - >> 185. Hmmm, thinks I. The shroud on each side of my radiator is missing. >> Is it possible that as I increase speed the air flow bypassing the >> radiator >> increases the pressure in the engine bay therefore slowing the flow of air >> from front to back through the radiator? I didn't know that the shrouds >> were suposed to be there as the other two 3As that I am familiar with do >> not >> have them either. I looked at another car that is original and it has >> them. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 23 16:27:26 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 15:27:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60906231505t375feb25wa01766cfd7cc1005@mail.gmail.com> References: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> <2a7657b60906231505t375feb25wa01766cfd7cc1005@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <49ACBEA872F84A108E843C6AC0B67BB7@jdnet.deere.com> > If I park my car in the sun the temp gauge already reads 120 degrees from > cold. Hasn't really gotten hot yet this year, but in a few months you'll be able to do that in the shade, a bit to the east of me. Right, Geo? Unfortunately, like everyone else, I start making modifications before really giving the stock system a chance. The project TR3 was already missing it's crank hole when I got it, and I'm not about to put it back just to prove a point. But it remains my belief that the stock system can work pretty good, if everything is right. So get that shroud on there, and make sure your radiator cap is holding pressure. BTW, on my list of things to check, the project TR3 may have a 4.10 axle or worse and no overdrive (as yet). Both the speedo and the tach seem to read really high, and my "calibrated ear" says the tach isn't that far off. We do drive fast in LA, but I should be pushing redline just to keep up with traffic! -- Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 16:28:27 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 15:28:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wiper Blade Info Request In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0906231528l40e9c4b5p8f6d497bf2d6455c@mail.gmail.com> I'm not familiar with TR6 blades but I have often shortened long blades to make the length I needed. In fact, I discovered just this morning that Checker (Kragan/Schuck/O'Reilly) no longer carry wiper refills in various lengths -- they just sell a long 'break to length' refill for a one-size-fits all item. Only thing they sell in lengths is the much more expensive wiper+arm. Geo From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 16:36:27 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 15:36:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank In-Reply-To: <35078556-8DE2-4761-9A02-D8AF938EECB7@cox.net> References: <35078556-8DE2-4761-9A02-D8AF938EECB7@cox.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906231536i451f4e8en3fb529b54799b348@mail.gmail.com> Not a tank... but I got a front bumper for the TR3A from Jorge and was quite satisfied with the fit & finish. Geo From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 16:54:12 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 15:54:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: <49ACBEA872F84A108E843C6AC0B67BB7@jdnet.deere.com> References: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> <2a7657b60906231505t375feb25wa01766cfd7cc1005@mail.gmail.com> <49ACBEA872F84A108E843C6AC0B67BB7@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0906231554u1f9c3e4dg52cfeba3248d961e@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 3:27 PM, Randall wrote: > > If I park my car in the sun the temp gauge already reads 120 degrees from > > cold. > > Hasn't really gotten hot yet this year, but in a few months you'll be able > to do that in the shade, a bit to the east of me. Right, Geo? > I've told the story before -- but once running errands in the afternoon I saw a time/temperature sign that said it was a quarter after one. Seemed later than that. Then the sign changed to 2:30 and I realized that the 115 I saw wasn't the time. Still I'll take it in exchange for the winter driving season. No heater in either TR and as Randall notes -- lots of room to work behind the dash. Geo From dlylis at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 16:59:03 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 18:59:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0906231554u1f9c3e4dg52cfeba3248d961e@mail.gmail.com> References: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com> <2a7657b60906231505t375feb25wa01766cfd7cc1005@mail.gmail.com> <49ACBEA872F84A108E843C6AC0B67BB7@jdnet.deere.com> <7bb181af0906231554u1f9c3e4dg52cfeba3248d961e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <2a7657b60906231559v3241eb02pbae08de49c9b88b3@mail.gmail.com> The temp of my black vinyl seats is the same as the motor! You West Coast guys may not know this but Dave Maynard of WBZ Radio in Boston used to have a vinyl seat report in the summer. The report was from "Ahhhh" to "Yeowww". On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 6:54 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 3:27 PM, Randall wrote: > > > > If I park my car in the sun the temp gauge already reads 120 degrees > from > > > cold. > > > > Hasn't really gotten hot yet this year, but in a few months you'll be > able > > to do that in the shade, a bit to the east of me. Right, Geo? > > > I've told the story before -- but once running errands in the afternoon I > saw a time/temperature sign that said it was a quarter after one. Seemed > later than that. Then the sign changed to 2:30 and I realized that the > 115 I saw wasn't the time. > > Still I'll take it in exchange for the winter driving season. No heater in > either TR and as Randall notes -- lots of room to work behind the dash. > > Geo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 23 17:57:53 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 19:57:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure In-Reply-To: <5F93E5947D0F4DECB46FC812A086C432@chuck> References: <72A95E76C65F49D48C35519A6EFEEFFA@BOBSNEWPC> <5F93E5947D0F4DECB46FC812A086C432@chuck> Message-ID: West Valley Instruments specializes in British cars and here's what Morris at West Valley Instrument requires in a Speedo/Tach cable to guarantee his repair work: Tip can only protrude from 1/4 - 5/16" The cable end is square and should measure 0.122" - 0.124" He prefers but doesn't require a nylon bushing at the end of the cable and not a steel bushing. I think the Moss/TRF cables all have steel bushings. NFI and YMMV Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Chuck White [mailto:triumph.driver at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 9:10 AM To: 'Bob Danielson' Subject: RE: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure Bob, Do you remember what the measurement is supposed to be? The speedo on my 65 TR4A has 'bounced' since the day I got it. I've changed the speedo cable twice and lubricated it several times. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 10:43 PM To: 'oliver'; '6-Pack'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure Oliver.......... I can tell you that when I sent my speedo out to West Valley for a rebuild/calibration, the first thing Morris asked me to do was to measure the tip of the speedo cable. If it wasn't + - "X" inches he wouldn't guarantee the rebuild. If the tip is too long it can damage the speedo/tach. Mine was 1/8" too long so he rebuilt the cable for $25. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 7:39 PM To: '6-Pack'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] speedo failure has anyone else experienced a speedo failure after installing a new cable from moss? or was i just unlucky??? From TR4Zest at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 18:10:09 2009 From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 00:10:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60906231559v3241eb02pbae08de49c9b88b3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00163691ff2c2c6126046d0cee0e@google.com> David Lylis wrote: > The temp of my black vinyl seats is the same as the motor! > You West Coast guys may not know this but Dave Maynard of WBZ Radio in > Boston used to have a vinyl seat report in the summer. The report was from > "Ahhhh" to "Yeowww". Dave - another thought, is your mechanical advance mechanism in your distributor working OK? Do you have an adjustable strobe to at least see it have an effect as you rev the engine? Brian From triumph.driver at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 18:31:25 2009 From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 20:31:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4794D15F44304266800D85EACFBE9345@chuck> Thanks, Bob. That should help a lot! BTW, the last cable I got from Moss had a nylon bushing (I think). Chuck -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 7:58 PM To: 'Chuck White'; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure West Valley Instruments specializes in British cars and here's what Morris at West Valley Instrument requires in a Speedo/Tach cable to guarantee his repair work: Tip can only protrude from 1/4 - 5/16" The cable end is square and should measure 0.122" - 0.124" He prefers but doesn't require a nylon bushing at the end of the cable and not a steel bushing. I think the Moss/TRF cables all have steel bushings. NFI and YMMV Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Chuck White [mailto:triumph.driver at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 9:10 AM To: 'Bob Danielson' Subject: RE: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure Bob, Do you remember what the measurement is supposed to be? The speedo on my 65 TR4A has 'bounced' since the day I got it. I've changed the speedo cable twice and lubricated it several times. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 10:43 PM To: 'oliver'; '6-Pack'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure Oliver.......... I can tell you that when I sent my speedo out to West Valley for a rebuild/calibration, the first thing Morris asked me to do was to measure the tip of the speedo cable. If it wasn't + - "X" inches he wouldn't guarantee the rebuild. If the tip is too long it can damage the speedo/tach. Mine was 1/8" too long so he rebuilt the cable for $25. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 7:39 PM To: '6-Pack'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] speedo failure has anyone else experienced a speedo failure after installing a new cable from moss? or was i just unlucky??? From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Jun 23 18:32:55 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 00:32:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0906231536i451f4e8en3fb529b54799b348@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <729331771.8905831245803575110.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I recently removed the front bumper to replace an aging radiator.B I was so taken with the "naked front end" that I decided to leave the bumper off. Anyone have a comment on which they think looks better?B B An opportunity to do a quick survey ? Andrew ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "TR List" Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 6:36:27 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Gas Tank Not a tank... but I got a front bumper for the TR3A from Jorge and was quite satisfied with the fit & finish. Geo This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From dlylis at gmail.com Tue Jun 23 18:39:12 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 20:39:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: <00163691ff2c2c6126046d0cee0e@google.com> References: <2a7657b60906231559v3241eb02pbae08de49c9b88b3@mail.gmail.com> <00163691ff2c2c6126046d0cee0e@google.com> Message-ID: <2a7657b60906231739g6c20fd14n9dad7e730da3aa9b@mail.gmail.com> Interesting question. Only yesterday I connected a vacuum gauge to the advance tube and got nothing. I don't know that that would effect temp at speed, however. Tomorrow is the day to check advance with the light. Thanks On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 8:10 PM, wrote: > David Lylis wrote: > > The temp of my black vinyl seats is the same as the motor! > >You West Coast guys may not know this but Dave Maynard of WBZ Radio in > > Boston used to have a vinyl seat report in the summer. The report was > from > > "Ahhhh" to "Yeowww". > > Dave - another thought, is your mechanical advance mechanism in your > distributor working OK? Do you have an adjustable strobe to at least see it > have an effect as you rev the engine? > > Brian From chandler.rick at comcast.net Tue Jun 23 19:04:51 2009 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 18:04:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] speedo failure Message-ID: Oliver, I had two recent failures of Moss tach cables for my TR3A. The problem was not the length, but the width of the square end that mates to the dizzy. The spec is 0.125" nominal on a side, and both cables were 0.010" oversized and would not fully insert. Screwing the retaining cap in home placed the entire cable in compression, and took out the tach (after a lot of screeching). After rebuilding the tach, I figured out the problem and ground the offending 10 thou off; the cable then inserted fully into the dizzy, the cable operated freely, and the tach now works very well. The tach end, BTW, has a female part that is a bit oversized, and was not bothered by the oversized end. Rick in Seattle 1960 TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk3 From Herald948 at aol.com Tue Jun 23 20:28:11 2009 From: Herald948 at aol.com (Herald948 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 22:28:11 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more Message-ID: In a message dated 6/23/2009 6:28:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: But it remains my belief that the stock system can work pretty good, if everything is right. ==AM== If my experience back in the early and mid-1970s with a bone-stock, tired but willing (well over 90k on the odometer) TR3A was any indication, I would have to agree! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377052x1201454391/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue Jun 23 20:29:53 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 19:29:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Bumper Brackets Message-ID: <4A418FA1.4@comcast.net> Anybody have a set of TR3 bumper brackets that they would like to swap for a set of TR3A brackets? I discovered that I have two sets of TR3A brackets in the pile of parts I acquired, but none for the 57 TR3 that I am restoring. If not, could someone provide the bumper height measurement for a TR3? I may end up building my own set of brackets. The TR3A brackets pass through the front apron while the TR3 brackets pass underneath. This makes me think that the TR3 bumper sits lower than the 3A but I am not sure. Thanks, Mike From Herald948 at aol.com Tue Jun 23 20:33:23 2009 From: Herald948 at aol.com (Herald948 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 22:33:23 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Bumper [was Gas Tank] Message-ID: In a message dated 6/23/2009 8:35:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: I recently removed the front bumper to replace an aging radiator.B I was so taken with the "naked front end" that I decided to leave the bumper off. Anyone have a comment on which they think looks better?B B An opportunity to do a quick survey ? ==AM== Like the "look"...hate the vulnerability! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377052x1201454391/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun eExcfooterNO62) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 23 22:04:09 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 21:04:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Bumper [was Gas Tank] In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090624040409205.GZFR4077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > Like the "look"...hate the vulnerability! My front bumper did so much good that after I was the Oreo filling in a 4-car chain collision .... I reused it! http://tinyurl.com/nxdwnb Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue Jun 23 23:03:23 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 23 Jun 2009 22:03:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Bumper [was Gas Tank] In-Reply-To: <20090624040409205.GZFR4077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> References: <20090624040409205.GZFR4077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <4A41B39B.5000202@comcast.net> I kind of thought that bumpers on these were a bit too low to be practical. I just had mine straightened and chromed so it's nice to know that it won't be damaged if I get in an accident! Mike >> Like the "look"...hate the vulnerability! >> > > My front bumper did so much good that after I was the Oreo filling in a > 4-car chain collision .... I reused it! From dlylis at gmail.com Wed Jun 24 09:29:34 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 11:29:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2a7657b60906240829j5d06be88va988a217cf34b9c2@mail.gmail.com> I think there is no disagreement on the functionality of the stock system. I added an oil cooler to this car and I believe that it is contributing to the issue. Keep in mind that I am not overheating and the car idles well for long periods at an acceptable temperature. The car runs a little hot at speed and that is what I am coping with. I made a spoiler last night of 18 gauge steel sprayed black and put a black plastic "door ding guard" around the edge to finish it off. When I mounted the oil cooler I welded brackets to the chassis which gave me an excellent connection point for the spoiler. I just tested it and it has dropped the temp by 5-10 degrees. I am a happy guy. On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 10:28 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 6/23/2009 6:28:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > > But it remains my belief that the stock system can work > pretty good, if everything is right. > > ==AM== > If my experience back in the early and mid-1970s with a bone-stock, tired > but willing (well over 90k on the odometer) TR3A was any indication, I > would have to agree! > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph > Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) > > **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy > Steps! > ( > http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377052x1201454391/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jun > eExcfooterNO62 > ) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From banjonut at verizon.net Wed Jun 24 22:21:37 2009 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 21:21:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Door Hinge screw threads Message-ID: <15B965C6F7D64350A1DD4CE94A1E0AAC@HAMPC> Can anyone tell me the thread size for the door hinge screws on a '60 TR3A? Thanks in advance, Steve Ball Lompoc CA '60 TR3A TS68164L email: banjonut at verizon.net From jimbpps at cox.net Wed Jun 24 23:08:10 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Wed, 24 Jun 2009 22:08:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: Test-Please delete! Jim From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jun 24 23:18:24 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 05:18:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60906240829j5d06be88va988a217cf34b9c2@mail.gmail.com> References: <2a7657b60906240829j5d06be88va988a217cf34b9c2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: How about some photos of your spoiler. Please send off list. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial _Storage_062009 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 25 07:26:48 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 06:26:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Door Hinge screw threads In-Reply-To: <15B965C6F7D64350A1DD4CE94A1E0AAC@HAMPC> Message-ID: <20090625132647821.CWCV24524@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Can anyone tell me the thread size for the door hinge screws on a '60 TR3A? Should be 1/4-28 NF. Flat head, slotted. According to the book, the originals had 80 degree heads and were 5/8" long (P/N TK4705/P), but standard 90 degree heads & 3/4" long seems to work for me. Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Jun 25 15:26:49 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 14:26:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hardtop Message-ID: I have a steel, factory TR6 hardtop, red, new headliner, new glass. If anyone is interested I can provide pictures. Comes with installation kit, and hardtop hood liner (not to be confused the the soft top hood liner) ... I have no idea what a fair price is ... so please chime in ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jun 25 16:30:11 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 15:30:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-6 timing Message-ID: <139116.67287.qm@web59401.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> 69 tr-6 just overhauled and still trying to get it to idle smoothly. Have the S2 cam which is first upgrade from stock. ignition, fuel and vacuum seems fine. does still have old gas. presently have front apart including timing cover to check timing sprocket alignment and make sure its right. we think we have that right however we test ran it for a few minutes.............(without radiator ect) and found it ran and idled fairly well at 20-30 degrees btdc. book says it should be 4 degrees aftdc..............thats a huge differance and I'm wondering if I could leave it at that............or will pinging be unacceptable at load on the road. just wondering if anyone else has run into the same problem. thanks gary n From emanteno at gmail.com Thu Jun 25 21:09:33 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 22:09:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr-6 timing In-Reply-To: <139116.67287.qm@web59401.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <139116.67287.qm@web59401.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <354a1780906252009q63005166vd65ad3f6ba7ca73a@mail.gmail.com> On Thu, Jun 25, 2009 at 5:30 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > 69 tr-6 just overhauled and still trying to get it to idle smoothly. Have > the > S2 cam which is first upgrade from stock. You are probably not going to get a smooth idle under 950-1000 rpm with a S2 cam. > and found it ran and idled fairly well at 20-30 degrees btdc. > book says it should be 4 degrees aftdc.............. 4 degrees after is emissions timing. With the S2, you will want something closer to 12 degrees before at idle. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From banjonut at verizon.net Thu Jun 25 22:14:59 2009 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Thu, 25 Jun 2009 21:14:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A door hinge screw threads Message-ID: <0DB6F25F69544A3C9DAC64F24638A264@HAMPC> Thanks again to everyone who replied with information about these screws...I really appreciate the help. Several people answered, and they all agreed that the threads are 1/4" NF. This helps me a lot since the parts are in the body shop so I can't use them for reference when I go shopping for a tap. Once again, the list comes through!! Steve From dlylis at gmail.com Fri Jun 26 05:57:27 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2009 07:57:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more Message-ID: <2a7657b60906260457v1bf6f1dao172039bb2c814eeb@mail.gmail.com> I have had a few requests for pics of the "spoiler". In the next week I have to get the car up on jack stands to deal with a squeaky urethane upper A arm so I will take photos then. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jun 26 18:44:50 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2009 20:44:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Bike Rack Message-ID: <363B0BD6F01546B7B2E40716E0D44AF9@BOBSNEWPC> I just finished making up a bike rack to fit on my TR6 but it would probably also work on any LBC with a luggage rack and a solid mounting point. It easily holds two bikes in an upright position. You can see it all here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BikeRack.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From thebujas at comcast.net Fri Jun 26 23:15:17 2009 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2009 00:15:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] TTA Charity Drive for PTSD starts today! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Joe Pawlak, Mark Fisher, Mike Blonder and Bill Jensen of the Illinois Sports Owners Association (ISOA) had an uneventful 21 hour / 1262 mile trip and delivered "uncle jack" safe and sound to John and Ed Macartney and Tom & Janet Fansher, Bob Storke, and Jere Dotten of the Central Florida Triumph Register. I've posted a brief article and several pictures on the TTA website at: http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ Additional photos from the trip are available on Flickr at: http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica/ The Triumph TransAmerica Charity Drive kicks off later this morning at the Grassroots Motorsport / Classic Motorsports HQ near Daytona Beach, Florida. Additional details are available at: http://classicmotorsports.net/events/494/ Tim Buja - Rockford, IL From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sat Jun 27 12:47:24 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2009 14:47:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TTA Charity Drive for PTSD starts today! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A46693C.2040004@earthlink.net> Thanks for the delivery. The car looked great! Probably the best looking Stag I've seen in years. Nice little kick off with a small spot of English weather (IE: rain) right at the end to welcome John Mac to the States! Joe B 72 TR6 Ann and Tim Buja wrote: > Joe Pawlak, Mark Fisher, Mike Blonder and Bill Jensen of the Illinois Sports > Owners Association (ISOA) had an uneventful 21 hour / 1262 mile trip and > delivered "uncle jack" safe and sound to John and Ed Macartney and Tom & > Janet Fansher, Bob Storke, and Jere Dotten of the Central Florida Triumph > Register. > > I've posted a brief article and several pictures on the TTA website at: > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ > > Additional photos from the trip are available on Flickr at: > http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica/ > > The Triumph TransAmerica Charity Drive kicks off later this morning at the > Grassroots Motorsport / Classic Motorsports HQ near Daytona Beach, Florida. > Additional details are available at: > http://classicmotorsports.net/events/494/ > > Tim Buja - Rockford, IL From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz Sat Jun 27 15:26:14 2009 From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2009 09:26:14 +1200 Subject: [TR] The Trans-America Triumph... Message-ID: <958739AD9BAF42879A86AC6ABBBCC260@DRESANPC> Hi Listers..... Down here in Feilding New Zealand its winter, and I am reading with envy about the TransAmerica run! Can somebody enliven me about the history of the car in question? Curious about the Left Hand Drive configuration and whar appears to be a British number plate on the rear! Had a Stag myself once, but that one would leave mine for dead. What a gorgeous car! Would also like to know exactly what the cause of the horrific gearbox failure was. I had a '73 2.5 TC for 13 years and it performed extrelely well, the only O/D problem I ever had was when a terminal on the Lock-out switch came loose. Have fitted anO/D box to the 4A I'm restoring, and am looking forward to those "split changes" I used to perform on the TC. My MGB GT also has O/D, but the switch is on the dash. Not quite the same! Best Regards...Trev. H.......65 TR4A From emanteno at gmail.com Sun Jun 28 05:29:03 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2009 06:29:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] The Trans-America Triumph... In-Reply-To: <958739AD9BAF42879A86AC6ABBBCC260@DRESANPC> References: <958739AD9BAF42879A86AC6ABBBCC260@DRESANPC> Message-ID: <354a1780906280429k35bb2d86l7b8e756b232cb86@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Jun 27, 2009 at 4:26 PM, T S Hardy wrote: > Hi Listers..... > Down here in Feilding New Zealand its winter, and I am reading with envy > about the TransAmerica run! Can somebody enliven me about the history of > the > car in question? Curious about the Left Hand Drive configuration and whar > appears to be a British number plate on the rear! Had a Stag myself once, > but > that one would leave mine for dead. What a gorgeous car! Would also like to > know exactly what the cause of the horrific gearbox failure was. I had a > '73 > 2.5 TC for 13 years and it performed extrelely well, the only O/D problem I > ever had was when a terminal on the Lock-out switch came loose. Have fitted > anO/D box to the 4A I'm restoring, and am looking forward to those "split > changes" I used to perform on the TC. My MGB GT also has O/D, but the > switch > is on the dash. Not quite the same! Best Regards...Trev. H.......65 > TR4A The car was acquired from a member if ISOA, and was converted from a slushbox to a 4 speed with overdrive. It was a US version, so it was left hand drive from the factory. The British number plate is a replica, put on there for John. Not sure what caused the TRanny failure, but it appears that it literally tore itself apart and from the car. The pictures look grim, in person it is astonishing. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as emanteno at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jun 28 19:53:46 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2009 21:53:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 problems Message-ID: <4A47E66A.27949.30885A08@localhost> On Friday I started to drive the GT6 to work but it became obvious after a few minutes that it wasn't happy reving. It idled nicely but didn't want to go above maybe 3000rpm, would start missing and had nowhere near as much torque as it should. I thought it might be a stuck carb pot (it has two SUs), which had happened to be me before. But that should have caused a rich mixture as the revs went up, and it wasn't acting like a rich mixture. In any case, I check them and they were fine. Another possibility was condensation in the dizzy, seeing as how it has been raining here for weeks. But it should have dried out in the ten minutes I drove it. So this evening, finally, I had a few minutes so I check the compression. It's been sounding noisier like it had more valve lash even though I adjusted them not long ago. The readings were 120, 150, 150, 135, 150 150. I rechecked #1 and it read only 115 the second time. Not so good. And at idle something was going thunk thunk thunk. (On a previous car that sound was a rod bearing, but that wouldn't affect compression.) Maybe a valve on #1 is sticky. The best possibility is that an adjustment locking nut has come loose and its valve has loosened up. Oh well, something else to check. No time now though. The GT6 won't be going anywhere for a while. Bummer. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jun 29 02:25:56 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 08:25:56 +0000 Subject: [TR] GT6 problems In-Reply-To: <4A47E66A.27949.30885A08@localhost> References: <4A47E66A.27949.30885A08@localhost> Message-ID: Run the compression test again after squirting some oil in the cylinders just before taking the readings. If the compression come up then the problem is valves. If it doesn't come up the problem is likely rings. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Jun 29 07:34:11 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 08:34:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 problems References: <4A47E66A.27949.30885A08@localhost> Message-ID: <000c01c9f8be$bffbe180$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> i think you have it backwards - the oil seals the rings and makes the compression come up if the rings are bad http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 3:25 AM Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 problems > Run the compression test again after squirting some oil in the cylinders > just > before taking the readings. If the compression come up then the problem > is > valves. If it doesn't come up the problem is likely rings. > > Best regards, > > Tom From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Jun 29 07:38:03 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 08:38:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 problems References: <4A47E66A.27949.30885A08@localhost> Message-ID: It's the other way around. Oil on the rings helps seal them, so if the wet compression is higher, it's a ring problem. Karl > Run the compression test again after squirting some oil in the cylinders > just > before taking the readings. If the compression come up then the problem > is > valves. If it doesn't come up the problem is likely rings. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 29 10:17:35 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 09:17:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090629161734534.ELFU24524@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > It's the other way around. Oil on the rings helps seal them, so if the > wet compression is higher, it's a ring problem. I agree. With the caveat that it should be only a small amount of oil, and a larger change in compression. The oil itself will raise the reading slightly even if the rings are fine. Randall From mjkatona at gmail.com Mon Jun 29 19:49:05 2009 From: mjkatona at gmail.com (Mike Katona) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 18:49:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 Message-ID: Just about pulling the last of the hair I have out. I cannot get the passenger door adjusted where it will close easily (like the drivers side). I have tried setting the striker on the right to the same location as the left side and it made no difference. Don't think that there is a hinge issue as the front of the door panel where is meets the body is all in a line. The rear end of the passenger door where is meets the body is skewed with the bottom being flush and the top sticking out about 3/4 to 1". It just doesn't close solidly. Is it possible that the striker is bad? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks -- retired, photographer, mule rider, Triumph TR4 driver, lover of life From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jun 29 21:13:25 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 21:13:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mule rider, Striker plates do wear, have you tried trading it with the driver's side? But, it sounds more like your door is twisted or the hinges are not quite right. Is the door flush top-to-bottom at the A piller(front) when closed? I am not a TR4 guy so I don't know how much, if any, adjustment you have. Donkey rider, Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Katona Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 7:49 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 Just about pulling the last of the hair I have out. I cannot get the passenger door adjusted where it will close easily (like the drivers side). I have tried setting the striker on the right to the same location as the left side and it made no difference. Don't think that there is a hinge issue as the front of the door panel where is meets the body is all in a line. The rear end of the passenger door where is meets the body is skewed with the bottom being flush and the top sticking out about 3/4 to 1". It just doesn't close solidly. Is it possible that the striker is bad? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks -- retired, photographer, mule rider, Triumph TR4 driver, lover of life This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Jun 30 02:42:33 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 08:42:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] GT6 problems In-Reply-To: <20090629161734534.ELFU24524@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> References: <20090629161734534.ELFU24524@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: My apologies everyone. My description of a wet compression test was indeed reversed. Thanks for the corrections. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail.. http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria l_QuickAdd_062009 From pete_groh at yahoo.com Tue Jun 30 08:24:52 2009 From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 07:24:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lead to '67 TR4A Located in VA USA Message-ID: <296057.69999.qm@web36808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Our local MasonDixon TRA car club was contact by a TR4A owner who has a care for sale. NFI Hi Pete, yes it is still available. It has IRS, does not have overdrive. Asking $9,500 OBO. > Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 09:12:19 -0700 > From: pete_groh at yahoo.com > Subject: RE: TR4A for sale In VA > To: bmills5864 at msn.com > Bob Pete here. I have the local Mason/Dixon web page. Can post it if still available. Does the car have overdirve? Straight Axle? > KInd regards > http://www.brmmbrmm.com/masondixontrs I am trying to sell my '67 TR4A ASAP. > > I've owned the car for 23 yrs and now I must sell. Is > > it possible to place an ad in your newsletter, or do you > > know of anyone interested in a very presentable daily > > driver? Thanks for any help you could offer. Bob Mills > > Manassas VA > > Home: (703) 335-2581 > > Work: (703) 335-2581 > > E-mail: bmills5864 at msn.com Pete Groh (KeyGuy) From dlylis at gmail.com Tue Jun 30 12:09:12 2009 From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 14:09:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2a7657b60906301109x2833a6eew294985f4e694b766@mail.gmail.com> Is this what you mean to say? 3/4 to 1" is a huge amount for the top of the door to protrude from the body while the bottom is flush. Under those conditions I would not be surprised if the latch is not hitting the striker plate at all. Either I am not interpreting your comment correctly or something is very wrong with the body/door. On Mon, Jun 29, 2009 at 9:49 PM, Mike Katona wrote: > > The rear end of the passenger door where is meets the body is skewed > with the bottom being flush and the top sticking out about 3/4 to 1". > I > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Jun 30 12:41:47 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 11:41:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-6 timing chain ect. update Message-ID: <811796.94308.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just a quick update on the problem I sent to the list several days ago in which in trying to get rebuilt engine running/idling ok it seemed we could get it running best when it was around 30 degrees btdc. but then it would not idle. (We even went so far as to taking off the timing cover and making sure cam and crank sprockets were correct.) To make a long story short........................ In fiddling with the retard on the distributor and also re-checking inside distributor cap we noticed point gap seemed to be extremely wide. Sure enough upon re-setting the point gap the engine suddenly settled down and smoothed out.............became a differant animal! Never realized how much point gap has to do with timing..........probably the dwell angle. new sign in my shop.............check the simple stuff stupid. gary n. From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Jun 30 13:51:51 2009 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 12:51:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6F00A17ABAC449FBA9451B4D93B3FEB3@Gateway1> I can tell you that I spent at least 8 hours per door to get them to a point they would just close. The issue I had was with the new rubber door seals - they took some squishing down to get the door to close. After getting the doors close, I lived with it for about 3 months, then readjusted. This time (yes, another 8 hours per door!) I was able to get them closer. Never did get the passenger door to where I wanted it. The doors have limited adjustment and the bolts on the door adjust a different direction than those on the pillar - but I'm sure you know that. I did have to use shims that I made from thick (1/8") rubber. My best advice: patience! Brian ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 18:49:05 -0700 From: Mike Katona Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Just about pulling the last of the hair I have out. I cannot get the passenger door adjusted where it will close easily (like the drivers side). I have tried setting the striker on the right to the same location as the left side and it made no difference. Don't think that there is a hinge issue as the front of the door panel where is meets the body is all in a line. The rear end of the passenger door where is meets the body is skewed with the bottom being flush and the top sticking out about 3/4 to 1". It just doesn't close solidly. Is it possible that the striker is bad? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks -- retired, photographer, mule rider, Triumph TR4 driver, lover of life From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 30 20:19:07 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net) Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2009 20:19:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 & TR3 In-Reply-To: <6F00A17ABAC449FBA9451B4D93B3FEB3@Gateway1> References: <6F00A17ABAC449FBA9451B4D93B3FEB3@Gateway1> Message-ID: Brian, I am at the same place with my TR3, put new rubber under the doors and now I can close the doors only with extreme force. Please tell me that after the 3-month period all will be back to normal? Bill Beecher '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!) "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Induni Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 1:52 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 I can tell you that I spent at least 8 hours per door to get them to a point they would just close. The issue I had was with the new rubber door seals - they took some squishing down to get the door to close. After getting the doors close, I lived with it for about 3 months, then readjusted. This time (yes, another 8 hours per door!) I was able to get them closer. Never did get the passenger door to where I wanted it. The doors have limited adjustment and the bolts on the door adjust a different direction than those on the pillar - but I'm sure you know that. I did have to use shims that I made from thick (1/8") rubber. My best advice: patience! Brian ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 18:49:05 -0700 From: Mike Katona Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Just about pulling the last of the hair I have out. I cannot get the passenger door adjusted where it will close easily (like the drivers side). I have tried setting the striker on the right to the same location as the left side and it made no difference. Don't think that there is a hinge issue as the front of the door panel where is meets the body is all in a line. The rear end of the passenger door where is meets the body is skewed with the bottom being flush and the top sticking out about 3/4 to 1". It just doesn't close solidly. Is it possible that the striker is bad? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks -- retired, photographer, mule rider, Triumph TR4 driver, lover of life This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive