[TR] $#%$^%^!!!!

Randall tr3driver at ca.rr.com
Tue Jul 28 20:06:21 MDT 2009


> Three blown head gaskets in 18 months ... 

When I had that problem, it turned out that the liner tops were not square
to the surface of the block.  I had been measuring liner protrusion only on
one side (where of course it was OK).  Measuring to the other side showed
much less than the specified protrusion.  

The block was apparently at fault, as the problem persisted with two
different sets of liners and was always to the same side no matter how the
liners were turned.  

Since I was unwilling to replace the block at the time, I hit on the
solution of soldering a "fire ring" of .020" copper wire to the head gasket
around each cylinder.  It was intended as a temporary solution (while I
rebuilt another motor), but I wound up using it for over 10 years and never
had another head gasket leak.

The solder joint was not continuous, just tacks to hold the wire in place
during assembly and to join the overlapped ends of the wire.  I had expected
it to be difficult to get the gasket hot enough, but my 150 watt soldering
gun proved more than adequate for the task.  I used a Scotchbrite pad to
polish the areas where I was going to solder; and "electronic" (eutectic
rosin-core) lead/tin solder.  Ken Gillanders told me later that some of the
racers use Superglue instead of solder.

Another thing to check is the threads on your head studs.  It is apparently
not uncommon for them to distort just below the nut, which can cause binding
and insufficient clamping force when the head is replaced (especially if the
head has been shaved for increased compression).  The check is to clean the
threads and then spin a new hardware store nut down the threads.  It should
go all the way to the bottom easily.  If it binds about 2/3 down, the stud
is suspect and should be replaced.  I found 3 of mine that were bad.

Randall


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