From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 09:43:55 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 08:43:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 & TR3
In-Reply-To: <C7FFBB87F8934D26B534CBA3EB595470@bboffice>
References: <mailman.7.1246384802.5791.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<6F00A17ABAC449FBA9451B4D93B3FEB3@Gateway1>
	<C7FFBB87F8934D26B534CBA3EB595470@bboffice>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0907010843k7707768fm6d86ea13ef03561a@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 7:19 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I am at the same place with my TR3, put new rubber under the doors and now
> I
> can close the doors only with extreme force.  Please tell me that after the
> 3-month period all will be back to normal?


That's how it was when I replaced the door seals on my TR4.  Had to slam the
door to get a full latch.  Fine now.  3 months sounds about right.

Geo

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Jul  1 11:32:39 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 11:32:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 & TR3
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0907010843k7707768fm6d86ea13ef03561a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.7.1246384802.5791.triumphs@autox.team.net><6F00A17ABAC449FBA9451B4D93B3FEB3@Gateway1><C7FFBB87F8934D26B534CBA3EB595470@bboffice>
	<7bb181af0907010843k7707768fm6d86ea13ef03561a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7C8BDB9C374E4983A62D01E177257B1F@bboffice>

I took some clear rubber bumpers, like what you would use for a cabinet
door, and put them on the door edge to keep it straight while the rubber
does it's relaxation exercises. 

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn
Sent: Wednesday, July 01, 2009 9:44 AM
To: TR List
Subject: Re: [TR] door adjustment on TR4 & TR3

On Tue, Jun 30, 2009 at 7:19 PM, <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:

> I am at the same place with my TR3, put new rubber under the doors and 
> now I can close the doors only with extreme force.  Please tell me 
> that after the 3-month period all will be back to normal?


That's how it was when I replaced the door seals on my TR4.  Had to slam the
door to get a full latch.  Fine now.  3 months sounds about right.

Geo
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
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You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Wed Jul  1 12:40:10 2009
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 14:40:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4
Message-ID: <94399C85-9B00-4EAA-AA0E-97C399E80DCF@mgcarclub.com>

> I can tell you that I spent at least 8 hours per door to get them  
> to a point
> they would just close. The issue I had was with the new rubber door  
> seals -
> they took some squishing down to get the door to close. After  
> getting the
> doors close, I lived with it for about 3 months, then readjusted.  
> This time
> (yes, another 8 hours per door!) I was able to get them closer.  
> Never did
> get the passenger door to where I wanted it.

Reading these comments about new rubber seals prompts me to relate my  
experience with TR4 doors.

I put new door seals (original type in the channel) on and couldn't  
get the doors to close. Having done a lot of welding I was afraid it  
was my mistake. I purchased new door seals from the other major  
vendor and they were slightly smaller and softer. Doors closed  
normally. I don't remember which vendor had the good seals and the  
bad but it doesn't make much difference because I had exactly the  
same problem with the trunk seal but the source of the good and bad  
trunk seals was now switched.

Allen

From jimbpps at cox.net  Wed Jul  1 14:48:41 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 13:48:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Test
References: <mailman.7.1246384802.5791.triumphs@autox.team.net><6F00A17ABAC449FBA9451B4D93B3FEB3@Gateway1>
	<C7FFBB87F8934D26B534CBA3EB595470@bboffice> 
Message-ID: <38B5D304F7D348919E8CF35CD59E5A09@JimofficePC>

TEST Please delete!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul  1 15:12:10 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 14:12:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] door adjustment on TR4
In-Reply-To: <94399C85-9B00-4EAA-AA0E-97C399E80DCF@mgcarclub.com>
References: <94399C85-9B00-4EAA-AA0E-97C399E80DCF@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <AA476E4D454449F7B3CE9E31C7655483@jdnet.deere.com>

> but it doesn't make much difference because I had exactly the
> same problem with the trunk seal but the source of the good and bad
> trunk seals was now switched.

And I suspect that is the way it usually goes.  It's not that Vendor A sells
good parts and Vendor B sells bad ones; but that all of them get batches of
parts from time to time that aren't quite right.  And as much as we would
like for them to do 100% incoming inspection, realistically it's just not
going to happen (nor, I think, would we be willing to pay for what that
inspection would cost).

I don't know what the solution is; except to inspect them yourself and
return them if there is a problem.  But that doesn't work very well either,
when you've never seen an original in good condition and so are not certain
if, for example, the door seals should be soft or firm or a mixture of both.
(Original TR3 door seals have a relatively firm outer layer and a very soft
'squishy' core.)

Randall

From dlylis at gmail.com  Wed Jul  1 16:50:28 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Wed, 1 Jul 2009 18:50:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] They are plotting against me, I know they are!
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907011550h64339a6en4bffe6b567f1a1d5@mail.gmail.com>

TR3A - Can anyone tell me why there are welded nuts only on the outer set of
bolts for the front upper fulcrum bracket and a nut an lock washer for the
inner bolts?  Removing and replacing can be done with a 6" extension slipped
up behind the spring with a swivel bar (not a ratchet) and an thorough
application of expletives.
I have not looked this up to see if this is factory but all four are the
same.
The long and the short of this story is that right side inner forward nut
was up against the spring spacer so I cannot replace it with out dropping
the spring pan.  All other three went relatively fine.
My urethane bushes started squeaking in a most annoying fashion and I
decided to replace the ball joints while in there.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Wed Jul  1 22:23:58 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 2009 22:23:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] StagByTriumph has invited you to join Triumph TransAmerica in
 Flickr
Message-ID: <4A4C365E.2060203@tscusa.org>

Hi Triumph Enthusiasts following the TTA and John Macartney,

I wanted to invite you to join the Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity
Drive group on Flickr! It's called Triumph TransAmerica, and it
has the daily and weekly photo postings for John Macartney's
trip across North America to promote awareness for Post
Traumatic Stress Disorder - PTSD.

Remember, see updates on
  for the whole drive too!

(I hope this link works)
If you would like to join this group, click on the
following link (or copy and paste it into your web browser).
Then you can see what this group is all about!

http://www.flickr.com/welcome/35069279/118728/


See you there!

StagByTriumph


p.s. If you are not interested, just ignore this email.
Flickr won't bug you again and there's nothing special you
have to do.


-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From dlylis at gmail.com  Thu Jul  2 12:56:58 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 14:56:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pics of spoiler
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907021156m6c6d09d3v8b0b33dade40e07c@mail.gmail.com>

Some listers had asked me for pics of the "spoiler" I put on my TR3A.  Here
are some photobucket links

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/P7021182.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/P7021184.jpg
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/P7021187.jpg

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul  2 17:28:39 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 16:28:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pics of spoiler
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60907021156m6c6d09d3v8b0b33dade40e07c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090702232839354.FHWP2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Some listers had asked me for pics of the "spoiler" I put on my TR3A.

Yer a brave man, running without a radiator guard.  I did that for awhile
too, until one day someone pulled up next to me and yelled "You're losing a
lot of water!"  A sharp rock had flipped up somehow and bashed a hole in the
radiator tank.

Randall

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Thu Jul  2 18:37:00 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Thu, 02 Jul 2009 18:37:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] StagByTriumph has invited you to join Triumph TransAmerica
 in Flickr
In-Reply-To: <003F29916D0B424C8DF7B27914CB8DA9@CarlPC>
References: <4A4C365E.2060203@tscusa.org>
	<003F29916D0B424C8DF7B27914CB8DA9@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <4A4D52AC.2070004@tscusa.org>

Thanks Gents,

Sorry for the bad link issue with Flickr.

This was my first attempt at getting the Flickr invite out for the TTA 
start of the drive photos. I'll do a bit more investigating over the 
next several days to see how to do the invite properly if needed.
At this time, the best way to go see the TTA photos is go to the main 
web site
http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/?p=300

and on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/groups/triumphtransamerica/

It appears that there is some settings that need to be tweaked in Flickr 
in order to view all the photos uploaded so far.  One way to see all the 
photos is to become a free Flickr member and then "Join the Group" for 
Triumph Transamerica

This seems to allow access to other group members uploads too.

Sorry, I'm new to Flickr, it looks like a great tool, but I and Tim need 
to play around with it a bit more to get it sorted.

In the mean time, have a look at the progress photos and comments!

ISOA has done a fantastic job, TTA is off to a nice start!  Make sure 
you see John and the car when is passes or arrives in your area.

Cheers!

Glenn Merrell
TTA north American Coordinator


Carl TR wrote:
> Glenn - the link didn't work for me.  Is there a way to go to flickr 
> and locate the group to join?
>
> Thanks
> Carl
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn A. Merrell" 
> <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
> To: "Triumph Triumph list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6-Pack" 
> <6pack at autox.team.net>; "TR8 Mail List Members" 
> <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>; "Spitfires Mail List Members" 
> <spitfires at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 12:23 AM
> Subject: [TR] StagByTriumph has invited you to join Triumph 
> TransAmerica in Flickr
>
>
>> Hi Triumph Enthusiasts following the TTA and John Macartney,
>>
>> I wanted to invite you to join the Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity
>> Drive group on Flickr! It's called Triumph TransAmerica, and it
>> has the daily and weekly photo postings for John Macartney's
>> trip across North America to promote awareness for Post
>> Traumatic Stress Disorder - PTSD.
>>
>> Remember, see updates on
>>  for the whole drive too!
>>
>> (I hope this link works)
>> If you would like to join this group, click on the
>> following link (or copy and paste it into your web browser).
>> Then you can see what this group is all about!
>>
>> http://www.flickr.com/welcome/35069279/118728/
>>
>>
>> See you there!
>>
>> StagByTriumph
>>
>>
>> p.s. If you are not interested, just ignore this email.
>> Flickr won't bug you again and there's nothing special you
>> have to do.
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Glenn Merrell
>> TSN Admin
>> http://www.triumphstag.net
>> mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From jeffn at msystech.com  Thu Jul  2 20:58:52 2009
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Thu, 2 Jul 2009 22:58:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpeting and Seat Foam
In-Reply-To: <4A4C365E.2060203@tscusa.org>
References: <4A4C365E.2060203@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <B5AD00B5171744D6AFA9AE4818B8DD82@pistol>

    Anyone have opinions (we all do) about the best carpeting and Seat Foam 
for a TR6? I'd rather place an emphasis on quality/comfort compared to 
original look. I heard a recommendation about John Skinner (UK). Any 
thoughts?

Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul  3 05:59:54 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 07:59:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpeting and Seat Foam
In-Reply-To: <B5AD00B5171744D6AFA9AE4818B8DD82@pistol>
References: <4A4C365E.2060203@tscusa.org>
	<B5AD00B5171744D6AFA9AE4818B8DD82@pistol>
Message-ID: <3CB19A29791845139DA1B20452D8E503@BOBSNEWPC>

I re-did my whole interior back in '97 with the kit from VB and it's held up
very well. If I were to re-do it today I'd seriously consider Prestige
Autotrim in the UK http://www.prestigeautotrim.com/usa/usa/tr_home.htm  I
got my mohair top from them and it's help up well for the past 10 years. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Nathanson
Sent: Thursday, July 02, 2009 10:59 PM
To: Triumph Triumph list
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpeting and Seat Foam

    Anyone have opinions (we all do) about the best carpeting and Seat Foam
for a TR6? I'd rather place an emphasis on quality/comfort compared to
original look. I heard a recommendation about John Skinner (UK). Any
thoughts?

Thanks,
Jeff N.
'72 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  3 07:52:04 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 09:52:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Empty trailer OH>PA and back
Message-ID: <BAY123-W51C99AFCEC5D6092066D95BA2C0@phx.gbl>

There is a possibility that I might have an empty car trailer heading from the
TRF area to Northern Ohio Mid to end July and again from Norther Ohio to the
TRF area mid to end of August time frame. Can haul a car if anybody is in
need.

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage.
http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_SD_25GB_062009

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul  3 09:19:42 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 08:19:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] For Sale : TR4 motor on Craigslist (Chatsworth,CA)
Message-ID: <20090703151942926.STTP2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

Saw this on Craigslist, thought perhaps someone might be interested:

Ad reads:

"Complete valve job new pistons and liners, reground cam new lifters new cam
bearings, timing chain, clutch kit, complete motor balanced, rear oil seal
conversion kit, crank ground .010 .010 with HD bearings crank was crack
tested. For more info contact me. jsiam1 at earthlink.net 818 350 6222 I'm in
Chatsworth Ca 91311"

http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/1251731758.html

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Jul  3 12:29:44 2009
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 14:29:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stuff for sale
Message-ID: <4A4E4E18.4000600@bright.net>

First of all, Happy 4th of July to all.  It's because of this we can 
enjoy our cars.  This past May we bought out the collection of TR3/TR4 
parts from the estate of a customer (passed away form cancer).  Very 
little sheet metal and no seats.  But lots of TR3 engines, bare blocks, 
short blocks, long blocks, heads, cranks, liners, etc. We also have TR3 
seat tracks, windshield stanchions, reconditioned TR3 radiators, side 
curtain frames and more.  If you need anything along these lines, please 
ask. Thanks for your time.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 13:05:42 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:05:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stuff for sale
In-Reply-To: <4A4E4E18.4000600@bright.net>
References: <4A4E4E18.4000600@bright.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0907031205h56160935ke0f23c3c64795800@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 11:29 AM, Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net> wrote:

> First of all, Happy 4th of July to all.  It's because of this we can enjoy
> our cars...


You're right, if we'd never had the Declaration of Independence then Chevies
and Fords would be British cars and where would that leave us?

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 13:10:18 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 12:10:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pics of spoiler
In-Reply-To: <20090702232839354.FHWP2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <2a7657b60907021156m6c6d09d3v8b0b33dade40e07c@mail.gmail.com>
	<20090702232839354.FHWP2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0907031210h70afbd88ld2e133f186411c88@mail.gmail.com>

I'll confess, my TR3A has lacked a radiator guard for the 28 years I've
owned it.  More stupid than brave in my case.  Soooo...

Anyone have one from a parting-out car or frame that they would sell?

Thought I had a lead on a local one but perhaps not, so I'll expand the
search.

If I'm looking at things correctly, it is simply held in place with a bolt
on each end.

Geo

On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 4:28 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>
> Yer a brave man, running without a radiator guard.

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Jul  3 16:41:19 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 18:41:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stuff for sale
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0907031205h56160935ke0f23c3c64795800@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4A4E4E18.4000600@bright.net>
	<7bb181af0907031205h56160935ke0f23c3c64795800@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A4E890F.2080808@earthlink.net>

Hmmm, same place as now?  Bankrupt auto industry?

Joe

Geo Hahn wrote:
> On Fri, Jul 3, 2009 at 11:29 AM, Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net> wrote:
>
>   
>> First of all, Happy 4th of July to all.  It's because of this we can enjoy
>> our cars...
>>     
>
>
> You're right, if we'd never had the Declaration of Independence then Chevies
> and Fords would be British cars and where would that leave us?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Fri Jul  3 17:49:42 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 19:49:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help needed
In-Reply-To: <20090703151942926.STTP2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090703151942926.STTP2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <D4FE2D30957242188E39C087DEA8E6C8@DCH6RFC1>

List:

After 5 years, I just today got the latest project on the road.  A 1959 TR3A
with a few modifications.  One of these is twin Webers, but the car is
running lean.  Can anyone tell me where to locate the mixture jet and how to
adjust ?  Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

PS - it has electronic ignition, so I think I can exclude that.

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Fri Jul  3 19:54:29 2009
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Fri, 03 Jul 2009 21:54:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Speedo Cable Routing - TR4A LHD w/OD
Message-ID: <4A4EB655.4020100@gmail.com>

My frame-off TR4A restoration has reached the point of final assembly, 
the paint is done and now all the trim and interior have to go back in.  
I've taken pictures of many well-restored cars at car shows so between 
those and the manuals, I have a good idea how most of this goes back 
together.  (My car was mostly in pieces when I got it).  However, I'm 
stumped at the speedometer cable routing.  I've got some pictures that 
appear to show the cable following the tachometer cable routing into the 
firewall, but how does the cable get from the overdrive fitting on the 
tranny  to the other side of the engine?  I see there is reference to a 
"frame clip" and another clip in the parts manual. Any information on 
these clamps and their location would also be appreciated as well as 
pictures.

Thanks, Ben....

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri Jul  3 23:59:24 2009
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 3 Jul 2009 23:59:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 New Rear Main Seal Leaking
Message-ID: <5AAF616240EE41C081D46B329D16180E@bboffice>

Hello List,
 
Well I have now put 100 miles on the new engine, it runs great, but I think
I am actually leaking more oil than before the rebuild.  I know, they are
supposed to leak some, it a British right of passage, but I went so far as
to grind the crank to the fit the $150. 'new-and-improved' seal from Moss
that is supposed to resolved much of this problem.  After parking the car
from  a 30min drive I see a 5" dia puddle under the engine at the rear.
 
Is there a break-in period that I should be aware of?  I intend to change
the break-in oil at 200 miles, will this make a difference?  Can I pull the
pan to inspect the seal without pulling the engine/trans to do it?  If so,
what should I be looking for?
 
Thanks to all in advance...
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Jul  4 02:27:20 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 08:27:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Stuff for sale
In-Reply-To: <4A4E890F.2080808@earthlink.net>
References: <4A4E4E18.4000600@bright.net>
	<7bb181af0907031205h56160935ke0f23c3c64795800@mail.gmail.com> 
	<4A4E890F.2080808@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W460B05267020C2599C07BDE52D0@phx.gbl>

> Hmmm, same place as now?  Bankrupt auto industry?

Actually Chevies and Ford would now be produced by VW & BMW with Chrysler
being made in China.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC thats right for you.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Sat Jul  4 05:34:34 2009
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 11:34:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] Point gap
Message-ID: <2018848094-1246707271-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2128763548-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Can some one tell me the point gap for two liter GT6 
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sat Jul  4 06:01:18 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 08:01:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 New Rear Main Seal Leaking
In-Reply-To: <5AAF616240EE41C081D46B329D16180E@bboffice>
References: <5AAF616240EE41C081D46B329D16180E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907040501j6fafc25fr4f1e4725ac646bb5@mail.gmail.com>

Bill,
Apparently this is a very familiar theme.  I have the same issue, although
not as severe as you seem to have.  I have discussed this with others who
have made this conversion and have the same or similar complaints.
I think it is from some of Uncle Jack's stuff that Tony posted online, but
the length of the spring that fits into the seal factors into the cure.  I
seem to recall that the spring needs to be shortened, therefore tightened,
to 8" in overall length before putting into the seal.  I am working from
memory here so do not act on this information until you verify yourself.
I am going to get to this in a couple of months so I am not paying strict
attention to the details now.
David

On Sat, Jul 4, 2009 at 1:59 AM, <bill_beecher at flash.net> wrote:

> Hello List,
>
> Well I have now put 100 miles on the new engine, it runs great, but I think
> I am actually leaking more oil than before the rebuild.  I know, they are
> supposed to leak some, it a British right of passage, but I went so far as
> to grind the crank to the fit the $150. 'new-and-improved' seal from Moss
> that is supposed to resolved much of this problem.  After parking the car
> from  a 30min drive I see a 5" dia puddle under the engine at the rear.
>
> Is there a break-in period that I should be aware of?  I intend to change
> the break-in oil at 200 miles, will this make a difference?  Can I pull the
> pan to inspect the seal without pulling the engine/trans to do it?  If so,
> what should I be looking for?
>
> Thanks to all in advance...
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jul  4 06:21:08 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 08:21:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 New Rear Main Seal Leaking
In-Reply-To: <5AAF616240EE41C081D46B329D16180E@bboffice>
References: <5AAF616240EE41C081D46B329D16180E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <200907040821.09348.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 04 July 2009 01:59:24 am bill_beecher at flash.net wrote:
> Hello List,
>
> Well I have now put 100 miles on the new engine, it runs great, but I think
> I am actually leaking more oil than before the rebuild.  I know, they are
> supposed to leak some, it a British right of passage, but I went so far as
> to grind the crank to the fit the $150. 'new-and-improved' seal from Moss
> that is supposed to resolved much of this problem.  After parking the car
> from  a 30min drive I see a 5" dia puddle under the engine at the rear.
>
> Is there a break-in period that I should be aware of?  I intend to change
> the break-in oil at 200 miles, will this make a difference?  Can I pull the
> pan to inspect the seal without pulling the engine/trans to do it?  If so,
> what should I be looking for?
>
> Thanks to all in advance...
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
Bill,

As part of my engine rebuild last year I had Triumph Rescue install the new 
and improved rear main seal.

After installing the engine, I noticed a very large oil leak at the rear.

I called Matt and he said he would need to inspect the engine while in the car 
so he trailered the car from central NY to his shop.

After some test driving and test runs he decided to pull the engine and 
inspect the seal because he said the oil leak was much more than expected.

What he found was a seal that was "too" tight. The seal was actually twisted.

This was the Moss seal so he called TRF and installed their seal which is in 
the car now. I only get a drop no and again which is less than with the old 
mechanical seal.

I would call Matt at Triumph Rescue to see if he has any suggestions. He came 
through for me and he has a lot of experience with that type of seal.

Bob

From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Sat Jul  4 07:02:01 2009
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 06:02:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Point gap
Message-ID: <334272.70436.qm@web80207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

0.015 in.  All years.

--- On Sat, 7/4/09, rbtr3a at cox.net <rbtr3a at cox.net> wrote:


From: rbtr3a at cox.net <rbtr3a at cox.net>
Subject: [TR] Point gap
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 4, 2009, 6:34 AM


Can some one tell me the point gap for two liter GT6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  4 07:17:35 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 06:17:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Point gap
In-Reply-To: <2018848094-1246707271-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2128763548-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <20090704131735941.JVNE2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Can some one tell me the point gap for two liter GT6

My book says .015", just like all the others.

Randall

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat Jul  4 08:14:32 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2009 10:14:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help needed
In-Reply-To: <D4FE2D30957242188E39C087DEA8E6C8@DCH6RFC1>
References: <20090703151942926.STTP2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<D4FE2D30957242188E39C087DEA8E6C8@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <0KM900FTOGWAMX26@vms173011.mailsrvcs.net>

At 07:49 PM 7/3/2009, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
>List:
>
>After 5 years, I just today got the latest project on the road.  A 1959 TR3A
>with a few modifications.  One of these is twin Webers, but the car is
>running lean.  Can anyone tell me where to locate the mixture jet and how to
>adjust ?  Thanks !
>
>Andrew Uprichard
>
>PS - it has electronic ignition, so I think I can exclude that.

Congrats Andrew!

Webers don't have adjustable jets like the SUs, they have to be 
replaced with a different jet.  You might find Terri Ann Wakeman's 
dissertation on Webers very 
enlightening.  <http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/WeberDCOEinfo.htm>

jim

>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as jhassall at blacksburg.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sat Jul  4 10:19:28 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2009 12:19:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 New Rear Main Seal Leaking
In-Reply-To: <5AAF616240EE41C081D46B329D16180E@bboffice>
References: <5AAF616240EE41C081D46B329D16180E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <0KM900940MON9WG7@vms173019.mailsrvcs.net>

At 01:59 AM 7/4/2009, bill_beecher at flash.net wrote:
>Hello List,
>
>Well I have now put 100 miles on the new engine, it runs great, but I think
>I am actually leaking more oil than before the rebuild.  I know, they are
>supposed to leak some, it a British right of passage, but I went so far as
>to grind the crank to the fit the $150. 'new-and-improved' seal from Moss
>that is supposed to resolved much of this problem.  After parking the car
>from  a 30min drive I see a 5" dia puddle under the engine at the rear.

Bill, before I installed my Moss (I believe this is not a 
vendor-specific issue) seal I was fortunate to have a very 
informative discussion with Jack Drews, who suggested shortening the 
spring to 8.25 inches.  I also drilled the rear main cap for 2 
additional drain holes (this only drains oil from the seal, not the 
bearings).  I've been fortunate and have had no leaks (this email is 
probably the jinx, however).

>
>Is there a break-in period that I should be aware of?  I intend to change
>the break-in oil at 200 miles, will this make a difference?  Can I pull the
>pan to inspect the seal without pulling the engine/trans to do it?  If so,
>what should I be looking for?

I doubt if additional running will make it any better, but it won't 
hurt to try.  If I were you, I'd pull the engine.  Not a pleasant 
prospect, but removing the rear main cap is challenging enough with 
the engine on a stand.  And don't even think about squishing the felt 
strips back into the cap groves while working over your head.

This probably isn't what you wanted to hear.  Sorry.

jim

>
>Thanks to all in advance...
>
>Bill Beecher
>'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
>"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
>course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as jhassall at blacksburg.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sat Jul  4 14:09:42 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 16:09:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help needed
In-Reply-To: <0KM900FTOGWAMX26@vms173011.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <20090703151942926.STTP2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<D4FE2D30957242188E39C087DEA8E6C8@DCH6RFC1>
	<0KM900FTOGWAMX26@vms173011.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <210ECEB926714878AE28F51E24A65B5C@DCH6RFC1>

Thanks to everyone who replied.  The problem with the engine running lean
was solved by tightening the manifold clamps - must have been a small air
leak.

Took the car for its maiden drive today.  I didn't realize how many more
things there were to do.  As Jim Hassall has at the end of his email ,
"98.9% finished, 90% to go" !!

Andrew Uprichard

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul  4 11:46:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 10:46:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 New Rear Main Seal Leaking
In-Reply-To: <5AAF616240EE41C081D46B329D16180E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <20090704174602019.OKKJ2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Is there a break-in period that I should be aware of?  I intend to change
> the break-in oil at 200 miles, will this make a difference?

I don't believe so, on either count.

>   Can I pull the pan to inspect the seal without pulling the engine/trans
> to do it?  

Not easy, but I have done it.  Last time around, I made up a sort of puller
from a chunk of bar stock and some bolts & threaded rod, to pull the cap out
partway, and then used some long bolts screwed into it as handles, to wiggle
it out past the flywheel.  

Apparently some kits came with the wrong instructions for what diameter to
grind the crank to; if it's ground too small then you will have to pull the
engine to replace the crankshaft.  My kit came with the instructions marked
up by hand to read 2.520".

There are more tips (though perhaps some of them no longer apply to
currently available kits?) at
http://www.socaltriumphs.org/docs/mainseal.htm

Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of TR2-4 high tech rear seal instructions.pdf]

From Bob at texmog.com  Sat Jul  4 16:37:27 2009
From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Sat, 4 Jul 2009 17:37:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 New Rear Main Seal Leaking
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60907040501j6fafc25fr4f1e4725ac646bb5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DBD4B2658F31497989C29C6D0A84FFCC@CARROOM>

The planets must not be aligned correctly! I too am having a problem with
excessive rear main leakage on a newly rebuilt engine. Having had bad luck
(major leaking with the Moss seal conversion some ten years ago, I opted for
the Greg Solow modification of the stock scroll sealing system. I'm not sure
that it is the seal that is leaking however.
After installing it and seeing the leak, I pulled the engine and took it to
a local well respected TR mechanic. He pulled the bottom end apart, checked
everything and reinstalled it right down to having a mandrel made to Gregs
specs.  IT is still leaking just as bad.
It is leaking 1/2 ounce of oil in every 100 miles ( yes I constructed a
catch system to capture the leaking oil). I beginning to think that it may
not be the seal that is leaking, that it is something else that is passing
the oil.

The question for the group is How do you deter main where the leak is coming
from?  I used the dye before taking the engine out again and what little
trace of color behind the flywheel were small and spread around with no
trail. The one area that had no color at all was between the crank and
aluminum scroll. Since I had someone else reinstall the scroll seal I'm hard
pressed to see us both screwing it up. As for the modification, the only
thing done is to reduce the clearance from .12 to .06 so I really don't see
how it would cause it to leak more.

My number one suspect is the freeze plug that blanks the end of the
camshaft. Anyone ever had a problem with that leaking?
Can that freeze plug be replaced with out removing the cam?
The freeze plug was new and installed by the machine shop. The Oil galley
plug was replaced with one supplied by TRS and installed with loctite thread
sealer.

I am also wondering if the oil might be leaking out the back of the oil pan
to block joint and being sucked or blown into the bell housing rather than
falling straight down. It would be nice if this was the problem since I
could do a fix without removing the engine. Any thoughts?  Any suggestions
as how to check the  pan for leaks ?

Bob Nogueira




> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Lylis
> Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2009 7:01 AM
> To: bill_beecher at flash.net
> Cc: TR List
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 New Rear Main Seal Leaking
> >
> > Well I have now put 100 miles on the new engine, it runs
> great, but I
> > think I am actually leaking more oil than before the
> rebuild.  I know,
> > they are supposed to leak some, it a British right of
> passage, but I
> > went so far as to grind the crank to the fit the $150.
> > 'new-and-improved' seal from Moss that is supposed to

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Jul  4 21:42:46 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 04 Jul 2009 23:42:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
Message-ID: <A79AECB6A465466AB974879F79C13FA5@CarlPC>

Weather didn't cooperate - raining most of last week so some of the 
sandblasting was not completed.
Hopefully by mid-week it will be done.

In the meantime, I am looking into getting a HVLP setup to do the next step 
at home.   Any advice on what and where to purchase.
Looking through Harbor Freight - it appears that there are 4 different 
systems available.
1) Canister/Gun combo unit.
2) Gravity Feed - 2 gun package with both 1.4 & 1.8 nozzles
3) 2 different types of Gun with separate Canister.

Priced low to high (1 to 3b)

I may not necessarily go with HF - just was one place to start looking.

Any suggestions?
Thanks
Carl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2009 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] The time has come... TR3 back from Body Shop


>A status report -
> I spent the morning at Brothers Powdercoating in New Port Richey, FL.   I 
> can't recommend them enough for the work that they are doing....
>
> The first pieces were shot with color and the second batch was getting 
> ready for primer (they were in the oven drying when I left).  The tub is 
> on hold as it has been nothing but rain for the past week and it still 
> needs to get a final blasting done before it goes through the process. 
> The hope is that Thursday will be clear enough for it and it will be done 
> by Friday afternoon.
>
> The exterior will need some finish work - every little imperfection is 
> clearly visible but this TR3 should be rust free for the next three 
> generations or more.   I will be posting some photos/video on the web 
> sometime in the near future.   The hard top, hood, trunk, rear 
> compartment, doors and cowl vent are done.   Fenders, tranny cover, front 
> apron, and tub to go....
>
> TS81802LO coming home hopefully this Friday evening.   Of course - then 
> the fun begins - trying to remember how it all goes back together.
>
> My plan is to get it completely assembled and do the final finish work 
> sometime over the winter/spring - Target date: NATC in GA!

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jul  5 05:57:45 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 07:57:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <A79AECB6A465466AB974879F79C13FA5@CarlPC>
References: <A79AECB6A465466AB974879F79C13FA5@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <200907050757.45915.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 04 July 2009 11:42:46 pm Carl TR wrote:
> Weather didn't cooperate - raining most of last week so some of the
> sandblasting was not completed.
> Hopefully by mid-week it will be done.
>
> In the meantime, I am looking into getting a HVLP setup to do the next step
> at home.   Any advice on what and where to purchase.
> Looking through Harbor Freight - it appears that there are 4 different
> systems available.
> 1) Canister/Gun combo unit.
> 2) Gravity Feed - 2 gun package with both 1.4 & 1.8 nozzles
> 3) 2 different types of Gun with separate Canister.
>
> Priced low to high (1 to 3b)
>
> I may not necessarily go with HF - just was one place to start looking.
>
> Any suggestions?
> Thanks
> Carl
>
Carl,

You can get a lot of cheap tools at HF and I have done that in the past but a 
spray gun is not where I would try to save a few bucks. The quality of the 
finish is where others will notice your work.

I have used a few of their guns in the past and you really cant compare the 
results with a quality gun.

I would take a look at Eastwood or Tcpglobal. If you want to get the best 
results and you plan to do more than one car, invest in quality. Paint these 
days is real expensive.

Just my opinion.

Bob

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Sun Jul  5 06:18:15 2009
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 07:18:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Speedo Cable Routing - TR4A LHD w/OD
In-Reply-To: <4A4EB655.4020100@gmail.com>
References: <4A4EB655.4020100@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU112-W381ECDFF04DCB9B88AB94B92A0@phx.gbl>

Ben-



If the 4A is like the 4, then the speedometer cable runs over the transmission
housing right next to firewall, then drops down and routes to the A-overdrive.
I think there is normally a clip at the center of the firewall right above the
engine/trans to hold the cable.  A bugger to access which is why mine isn't
connected at the moment..



Regards,

Randy



64 TR4

59 TR3A

_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail..
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
l_QuickAdd_062009

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Jul  5 07:35:18 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 09:35:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <200907050757.45915.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <A79AECB6A465466AB974879F79C13FA5@CarlPC>
	<200907050757.45915.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <03F9E42BBE3B4AEFA45BFA181D2ECE46@CarlPC>

As I said - HF would not necessarily be my final choice.  They just happen 
to be local and have four types available to look at for comparison.   It 
can sometimes be difficult to make a decision on just a web page or catalog.

My question is what are the advantages/disadvantages of the different 
configurations.
1) regular gun/canister setup
2) gravity feed
3) gun/hose/canister setup

Thank you for your comments.  I had not thought of TCP but Eastwood was 
already on my list to checkout.

Carl
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] The time has come... TR3 back from Body Shop


> On Saturday 04 July 2009 11:42:46 pm Carl TR wrote:
>> Weather didn't cooperate - raining most of last week so some of the
>> sandblasting was not completed.
>> Hopefully by mid-week it will be done.
>>
>> In the meantime, I am looking into getting a HVLP setup to do the next 
>> step
>> at home.   Any advice on what and where to purchase.
>> Looking through Harbor Freight - it appears that there are 4 different
>> systems available.
>> 1) Canister/Gun combo unit.
>> 2) Gravity Feed - 2 gun package with both 1.4 & 1.8 nozzles
>> 3) 2 different types of Gun with separate Canister.
>>
>> Priced low to high (1 to 3b)
>>
>> I may not necessarily go with HF - just was one place to start looking.
>>
>> Any suggestions?
>> Thanks
>> Carl
>>
> Carl,
>
> You can get a lot of cheap tools at HF and I have done that in the past 
> but a
> spray gun is not where I would try to save a few bucks. The quality of the
> finish is where others will notice your work.
>
> I have used a few of their guns in the past and you really cant compare 
> the
> results with a quality gun.
>
> I would take a look at Eastwood or Tcpglobal. If you want to get the best
> results and you plan to do more than one car, invest in quality. Paint 
> these
> days is real expensive.
>
> Just my opinion.
>
> Bob 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jul  5 08:58:00 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 10:58:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <03F9E42BBE3B4AEFA45BFA181D2ECE46@CarlPC>
References: <A79AECB6A465466AB974879F79C13FA5@CarlPC>
	<200907050757.45915.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<03F9E42BBE3B4AEFA45BFA181D2ECE46@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <200907051058.01838.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 05 July 2009 09:35:18 am Carl TR wrote:
> As I said - HF would not necessarily be my final choice.  They just happen
> to be local and have four types available to look at for comparison.   It
> can sometimes be difficult to make a decision on just a web page or
> catalog.
>
> My question is what are the advantages/disadvantages of the different
> configurations.
> 1) regular gun/canister setup
> 2) gravity feed
> 3) gun/hose/canister setup
>
> Thank you for your comments.  I had not thought of TCP but Eastwood was
> already on my list to checkout.
>
> Carl
Carl,

I use gravity feed. But I am no expert. I just find them easier to work with 
when spraying the tub, frame etc.

On body panels, the better guns offer finer tuning of the spray, air vs. paint.

Also I think there is less wasted paint with gravity.

I have used siphon guns before but the spray seems to vary depending on amt of 
paint in the canister.

But before you go out and get your setup, better wait for a real "expert" to 
chime in.

Bob

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Jul  5 10:47:10 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 12:47:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <A79AECB6A465466AB974879F79C13FA5@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPIEBGFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi Carl,
I bought a 3 gun HVLP set on Amazon a few months back based upon a
recommendation from one of the other guys who was taking a weekend autobody
class at our local 2 year college. You get a primer gun, a base coat, clear
coat gun, and a touch up gun for less than $100.00. They are from China but
not thru HF.
 Here is a link:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M61KKG/ref=ox_ya_oh_product

I have used the primer gun myself and it works great. Nice even coats and
very adjustable. I watched a guy spray base and clear on his Mustang with
the finish gun and it worked great. The key is to make sure you clean them
really well after each use.

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sun Jul  5 10:56:25 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 09:56:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] The time has come...  TR3 back from Body Shop
In-Reply-To: <A79AECB6A465466AB974879F79C13FA5@CarlPC>
References: <A79AECB6A465466AB974879F79C13FA5@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <4A50DB39.6040401@comcast.net>

Let me start by saying that I have only ever painted three cars in my
life time.

I have used an old (but high quality) suction style high pressure gun on
previous cars. This time around, I bought a new DeVilbiss FinishLine gun
that is a gravity HVLP design. I cost me about $90 last summer at my
local paint supply house. They were running a special at the time. What 
a difference from the old gun. There was a dramatic change in the amount
of paint that went on to the car verses spread all over inside of the shop.

The gun came with three nozzles. I think they were 1.0, 1.3, and 1.8 but
my memory may be a bit off. I used the 1.8 for the epoxy primer and the
1.3 for the acrylic enamel. I went with the acrylic enamel due to the
health concerns that I have heard about the more modern paints.

As far as gravity feed VS suction, either the gun hits things from
above, or below while your working. It is easier to check and fill the
gravity feed gun, and you can spray until it is completely empty.

Hope this helps.

Mike
>
> 1) Canister/Gun combo unit.
> 2) Gravity Feed - 2 gun package with both 1.4 & 1.8 nozzles
> 3) 2 different types of Gun with separate Canister.

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sun Jul  5 17:06:44 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 19:06:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2a7657b60906230930r53d8956xb5a8cd757c9db0d9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907051606i75103ecfqfc9cb2c9182cf869@mail.gmail.com>

I thought I would close out this post with the latest that I have found and
cured.
1.  The "high efficiency" electric fan had no real obvious indication of
which way the blades should face, although there were clear instructions for
reversing the fan from a puller to a pusher by the wiring.  I pulled the fan
out and low and behold there was a very discrete arrow on the fan blade that
indicated that, in addition to reversing the direction, the fan needed to be
turned over as well.  The brief, misspelled directions did not indicate
this.
2.  I took an old TR6 shroud and made the side shrouds for the TR3A.
All is better than it was before, even though it was pretty good after the
"spoiler".
3.  I have removed the vacuum advance hose from the dizzy and sucked on the
line and learned two things. 1.  The line is open to the front carb.  2.  It
tastes really awful.
I now have to figure out why I get no vacuum reading on the gauge.
Thanks to all.
David

On Tue, Jun 23, 2009 at 12:30 PM, David Lylis <dlylis at gmail.com> wrote:

> I found an odd thing; maybe not so odd, about my temp situation.  It
> appeared that the slower I go the cooler the motor seems to run, by about 10
> degrees.  I decided to use my ruminator to see if I could put it to use to
> figure this out.  I have tested this twice now and lets see what others
> think.  If I am in OD at 3200 rpms my temp runs up to 190 +.  Then, I drove
> around for about 5 miles at 3200 rpms, but in second and third gear.  180 -
> 185.  Hmmm, thinks I.  The shroud on each side of my radiator is missing.
> Is it possible that as I increase speed the air flow bypassing the radiator
> increases the pressure in the engine bay therefore slowing the flow of air
> from front to back through the radiator?  I didn't know that the shrouds
> were suposed to be there as the other two 3As that I am familiar with do not
> have them either.  I looked at another car that is original and it has
> them.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul  5 17:57:06 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 16:57:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60907051606i75103ecfqfc9cb2c9182cf869@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090705235706481.DCNM19903@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> I now have to figure out why I get no vacuum reading on the gauge.

The vacuum advance port is designed not to have vacuum at idle.

If you open the throttle suddenly, there is also very little vacuum; and if
you open it slowly, the engine over revs.

The solution is to either rig the vacuum gauge so you can see it while you
drive; or not worry about it and trust that it works.

Randall

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Jul  5 18:24:16 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 17:24:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] painting issues
Message-ID: <615719.29814.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm thinking of painting my project myself.  I've noticed in the posts that people use different guns or differant nozzle size for primer/final coats.  Is this the preferred way?  Or can i use my older sears paint gun for all coats?  I suppose as with most things this is a matter of preferance.

just wondering!

gary n.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jul  5 18:34:31 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 05 Jul 2009 20:34:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] painting issues
In-Reply-To: <615719.29814.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A510E57.11040.544C433D@localhost>

On 5 Jul 2009 at 17:24, Gary Nafziger wrote:

> I'm thinking of painting ... myself.

Perhaps you should point the gun away from you.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com, 42022'44"N 71013'2"W
"younger nor I am, and more soople, sir, oh, far more
soople."

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jul  5 20:51:27 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2009 20:51:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] painting issues
In-Reply-To: <615719.29814.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <615719.29814.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <676799AFAFA84490A8694CC8183A1A4D@bboffice>

I have no intentions of painting my project myself...But if I did, I would
go visit one of the local reputable paint and body shops and maybe for the
price of a lunch I could get enough good information of what I should be
looking for for my project.  

I don't know if it is possible but considering the substantial cost of
quality equipment renting might be the best way to go for a one-off
project(?).

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, July 05, 2009 6:24 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] painting issues

I'm thinking of painting my project myself.  I've noticed in the posts that
people use different guns or differant nozzle size for primer/final coats.
Is this the preferred way?  Or can i use my older sears paint gun for all
coats?  I suppose as with most things this is a matter of preferance.

just wondering!

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From chip19474 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  6 13:26:43 2009
From: chip19474 at gmail.com (chip krout)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 15:26:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpeting and Seat Foam
In-Reply-To: <B5AD00B5171744D6AFA9AE4818B8DD82@pistol>
References: <4A4C365E.2060203@tscusa.org>
	<B5AD00B5171744D6AFA9AE4818B8DD82@pistol>
Message-ID: <b878dbce0907061226u1cbafa71md6e1643d15519d86@mail.gmail.com>

Jeff,

I've installed more than a few carpet sets on TR6's and Spits in particular
(including my own TR6) and, in my opinion, the Wilton Wool sets are superb.
Yes, they do cost more.  But, not only do you get a really nice looking
carpet, the carpets are cut correctly and bound correctly which is very
important as you work your way through the installation.

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U

On Thu, Jul 2, 2009 at 10:58 PM, Jeff Nathanson <jeffn at msystech.com> wrote:

>   Anyone have opinions (we all do) about the best carpeting and Seat Foam
> for a TR6? I'd rather place an emphasis on quality/comfort compared to
> original look. I heard a recommendation about John Skinner (UK). Any
> thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.
> '72 TR6 _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as chip19474 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Jul  6 13:37:51 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 14:37:51 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpeting and Seat Foam
Message-ID: <2809049.540958.1246909071813.JavaMail.root@vms071.mailsrvcs.net>


From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Jul  6 15:50:59 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 17:50:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpeting
References: <4A4C365E.2060203@tscusa.org>
	<B5AD00B5171744D6AFA9AE4818B8DD82@pistol>
Message-ID: <F30C4DFB9A204674A1D031C2BC56D59C@Alan>

I have  a Black nylon carpet set by the Magic Carpet Factory  still in the 
box from TRF for sale for a TR6.

I decided to go with the original color which was a lt blue from TRF.
I thought I'd had it a bit too long to ask for a return.

$295.00 if anyone has a need.

Thanks,

Al Salvatore 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Jul  6 16:26:53 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 17:26:53 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpeting and Seat Foam
Message-ID: <942116001.1230142.1246919213234.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net>


From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Jul  6 16:34:32 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 17:34:32 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpeting and Seat Foam
Message-ID: <2047789218.1230693.1246919672499.JavaMail.root@vms184.mailsrvcs.net>


From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Jul  6 16:39:10 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 18:39:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] painting - TR3 sealer plate
In-Reply-To: <615719.29814.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <615719.29814.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AFA723DA0D97447DB3B36D10321F4D39@CarlPC>

Is the bulkhead sealer plate painted body color?  
P/N 900410 & 411 plus 602079 (top)

Seems like it should but I can't find any reference to what it should be.

Thanks

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Jul  6 16:40:37 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 18:40:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] painting - TR3 sealer plate
Message-ID: <DEF49A257D664A6DBAE719A3F0CF3541@CarlPC>

oops 602079 is the rubber seal; 602080 is the plate.
C

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 6:39 PM
Subject: painting - TR3 sealer plate


> Is the bulkhead sealer plate painted body color?  
> P/N 900410 & 411 plus 602079 (top)
> 
> Seems like it should but I can't find any reference to what it should be.
> 
> Thanks

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Jul  6 18:47:29 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 00:47:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A cooling, more
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60907051606i75103ecfqfc9cb2c9182cf869@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <75992007.822721246927649781.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I have removed the vacuum advance hose from the dizzy and sucked on the
>line and learned two things. 1. B The line is open to the front carb. B 2.
B It
>tastes really awful.
>David

David, I have found the technical manual that addresses number 2) above.B 
First, you take an empty glass.B  Cleanse it of all gasoline.B  Fill with a
mixture four parts to one of Planter's Punch mix and Meyers dark rum.B  Insert
straw.B  Substitute straw for line.



Little paper umbrella optional.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Mon Jul  6 20:04:26 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 14:04:26 +1200
Subject: [TR] Vacuum guage problem....
Message-ID: <8CC8404150344AECA92E9912FCD74E90@DRESANPC>

Hi listers....

            Have a real good mate, who for one silly reason or another bought
himself an A/H 100/6. Having reconditioned the car, and the engine, he tells
me that for some reason, the reading on the vacuum guage at idle is only
around 8. He's had a few suggestions, like valve clearances being too small
etc, but the reading still doesn't seem to alter. Has anybody got any
suggestions that I can pass to Doug please?


Thanks.....Trev. Hardy...Feilding; NZ

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Mon Jul  6 20:16:54 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 21:16:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vacuum guage problem....
References: <8CC8404150344AECA92E9912FCD74E90@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <B1F3E7D359A7490A8569F3379471385D@KARL>

MOWOG malaise

;-)


> Hi listers....
>
>            Have a real good mate, who for one silly reason or another 
> bought
> himself an A/H 100/6. Having reconditioned the car, and the engine, he 
> tells
> me that for some reason, the reading on the vacuum guage at idle is only
> around 8. He's had a few suggestions, like valve clearances being too 
> small
> etc, but the reading still doesn't seem to alter. Has anybody got any
> suggestions that I can pass to Doug please?
>
>
> Thanks.....Trev. Hardy...Feilding; NZ

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul  6 20:24:55 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2009 19:24:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 clutch slave cylinder
Message-ID: <985835.42295.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

hi guys.
I'm back with new, non aol screen name. i seem to be getting mail, but not sure if your getting my mail.
i guess we will see.
so today's question is what was the bore of the 1958/59 TR3 slave cylinder? 1"?
and if I'm thinking properly, if i change to a 7/8" bore, it will be a little tougher to push the pedal down but ill get more travel at the slave cylinder?
thanks
frank fisher
58 TR3

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Jul  6 21:12:29 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 06 Jul 2009 23:12:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] and speaking of engine performance
Message-ID: <4A5284DD.23401.5A033E01@localhost>

The other day I got around to measuring the GT6's compression again, 
checking the valves first.  #1 was tighter than it should've been.  
Don't know why, but after I re-adjusted it it read 140 as compared to 
the previous 120 or below.  Okay, chalk that up to mechanic's error, 
I guess.  (I wonder who that was.)

Drove it to work today but it still didn't like rev'ing above 
3500rpm, would start missing about 3000.  Ordered up a new tune-up 
set, dizzy cap, rotor, points, condensor today.  Put some dry-gas in 
the tank and drove around for 15 minutes but I'm not sure it helped.  
They're predicting possibly heavy T-storms tomorrow so I'll drive the 
van.  Maybe the GT6 will get the message.

In the meantime I'm open to suggestions.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Tue Jul  7 02:30:13 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 08:30:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] and speaking of engine performance
In-Reply-To: <4A5284DD.23401.5A033E01@localhost>
Message-ID: <000e0cd516647e74a7046e196e62@google.com>

On Jul 6, 2009 11:12pm, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:
> The other day I got around to measuring the GT6's compression again,
> <snip>
> Drove it to work today but it still didn't like rev'ing above
> 3500rpm, would start missing about 3000. Ordered up a new tune-up
> set, dizzy cap, rotor, points, condensor today.
> In the meantime I'm open to suggestions.

> Jim Muller

My thoughts, Jim:

Order a second set and keep one on hand as ready spares. Maybe get a coil  
too? Certainly new plugs from your FLAPS.
While you wait for the parts to come, check your carbs are operating at  
expected.
- How do the plugs look? Dusty grey / sooty / oily black each lead you in  
different directions.
- Is the choke coming fully off?
- Is the throttle operating fully on both carbs when the loud pedal is  
depressed?
- Fuel levels OK?
- Air valve not sticking?
Check the fuel supply: pump working? Filter not blocked?

Once your new points are in, take care in setting your gap and then do your  
timing carefully. Too much advance may be why you are 'missing' above 3k.

Good luck,

Brian

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Jul  7 05:41:30 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 07:41:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] and speaking of engine performance
In-Reply-To: <4A5284DD.23401.5A033E01@localhost>
References: <4A5284DD.23401.5A033E01@localhost>
Message-ID: <CzwG1c0025Bccag05zwGow@charter.net>

At 11:12 PM 7/6/2009, Jim Muller wrote:

>Drove it to work today but it still didn't like rev'ing above
>3500rpm, would start missing about 3000.


Have you checked fuel pump delivery volume?


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From Bob at texmog.com  Tue Jul  7 07:13:01 2009
From: Bob at texmog.com (Bob Nogueira)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 08:13:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] and speaking of engine performance
In-Reply-To: <4A5284DD.23401.5A033E01@localhost>
Message-ID: <9DE466D95DC147FD8D9A4C046C3F691C@CARROOM>

Jim 
I had the same problem on a TR 4 engine years ago, turned out the
centrifugal advance in the distributor was frozen up. 

Bob Nogueira 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
> Sent: Monday, July 06, 2009 10:12 PM
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] and speaking of engine performance
> 
> 
> The other day I got around to measuring the GT6's compression again, 
> checking the valves first.  #1 was tighter than it should've been.  
> Don't know why, but after I re-adjusted it it read 140 as compared to 
> the previous 120 or below.  Okay, chalk that up to mechanic's error, 
> I guess.  (I wonder who that was.)
> 
> Drove it to work today but it still didn't like rev'ing above 
> 3500rpm, would start missing about 3000.  Ordered up a new tune-up 
> set, dizzy cap, rotor, points, condensor today.  Put some dry-gas in 
> the tank and drove around for 15 minutes but I'm not sure it helped.  
> They're predicting possibly heavy T-storms tomorrow so I'll drive the 
> van.  Maybe the GT6 will get the message.
> 
> In the meantime I'm open to suggestions.
> 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as bob at texmog.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Jul  7 12:10:03 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 12:10:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Lever shock supplier?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1246989602.16683.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1246989602.16683.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAF2A5C5-ACB8-42D7-8202-CD49F889C20F@telus.net>

Anyone know a good source of lever shocks in Canada? Need a pair each  
for my TR6 and TR4A SA.
Tnx

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Jul  7 12:12:55 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 12:12:55 -0600
Subject: [TR]  and speaking of engine performance
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1246989602.16683.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1246989602.16683.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BD2A487A-946D-4892-9480-7854E991B8C6@telus.net>

High tension leads?


On 7-Jul-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> Date: July 6, 2009 9:12:29 PM MDT (CA)
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] and speaking of engine performance
> Reply-To: jimmuller at rcn.com
>
>
> The other day I got around to measuring the GT6's compression again,
> checking the valves first.  #1 was tighter than it should've been.
> Don't know why, but after I re-adjusted it it read 140 as compared to
> the previous 120 or below.  Okay, chalk that up to mechanic's error,
> I guess.  (I wonder who that was.)
>
> Drove it to work today but it still didn't like rev'ing above
> 3500rpm, would start missing about 3000.  Ordered up a new tune-up
> set, dizzy cap, rotor, points, condensor today.  Put some dry-gas in
> the tank and drove around for 15 minutes but I'm not sure it helped.
> They're predicting possibly heavy T-storms tomorrow so I'll drive the
> van.  Maybe the GT6 will get the message.
>
> In the meantime I'm open to suggestions.
>
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  7 12:42:31 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 11:42:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 clutch slave cylinder
In-Reply-To: <985835.42295.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <985835.42295.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9B75DF06A5874D52B94DBB710347BE9F@jdnet.deere.com>

> so today's question is what was the bore of the 1958/59 TR3 slave
> cylinder? 1"?

I believe that is correct.

> and if I'm thinking properly, if i change to a 7/8" bore, it will be a
> little tougher to push the pedal down but ill get more travel at the slave
> cylinder?

Also correct (about 30% more force), but I'm wondering why you would want to
do that to a TR3.  The original system has plenty of travel unless something
else is wrong.  It's the TR6, with that plastic balloon connecting the slave
& MC (plus other unfortunate changes), that sometimes has trouble with
insufficient travel.

-- Randall 

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Tue Jul  7 16:50:00 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 15:50:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] tire protection
References: <mailman.5.1246989602.16683.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <009a01c9ff55$42a01420$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello,
What does the list recommend for tire protection. Have new tires on the
everyday driver. When the sun hit them you could smell rubber from 10 feet
away. Looking for UV protection not necessarily shine. The TR6 is in the
garage :). Thank you. Regards, Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.12770
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Tue Jul  7 13:52:51 2009
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 19:52:51 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR]  and speaking of engine performance
Message-ID: <e3b3d23724fc0.4a53a793@optonline.net>

Jim Muller wrote:
>...it still didn't like rev'ing above 3500rpm...
       < SNIP> 
>In the meantime I'm open to suggestions.

Jim - 
    I don't know what type of carbs a GT6 has (Z-S's?) but if they have rubber diaphragms, check them.  My TR6 recently had that EXACT symptom and 
there were LOTS of pinholes/small rips in the diaphragms in both carbs.  
 
Dennis Culligan/Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U
"Everyone has to believe in something.  I believe I'll have another beer." Chris Browne

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  7 15:02:03 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 14:02:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] tire protection
In-Reply-To: <009a01c9ff55$42a01420$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <mailman.5.1246989602.16683.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<009a01c9ff55$42a01420$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <0E02A808EB0247808EAE7264BE99C4E8@jdnet.deere.com>

> What does the list recommend for tire protection.

Personally, I don't worry about it.  The exposed rubber on modern tires
already outlasts the carcass anyway, so any 'protectant' is purely cosmetic
IMO.

-- Randall 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 15:02:27 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 16:02:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] tire protection
References: <mailman.5.1246989602.16683.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<009a01c9ff55$42a01420$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <F3BCBA1ED8D34A82B8D9DEC1569DFD16@yourpd3mh0abgs>

allow the brown film that comes to the surface on the tires to remain.  it 
is a uv protectrant...according to my tire engineer buddy.
or you can put black garbage bags over them when parked....
or just wear them out!  my fav.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 5:50 PM
Subject: [TR] tire protection


> Hello,
> What does the list recommend for tire protection. Have new tires on the
> everyday driver. When the sun hit them you could smell rubber from 10 feet
> away. Looking for UV protection not necessarily shine. The TR6 is in the
> garage :). Thank you. Regards, Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
> Database version: 6.12770
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From dlylis at gmail.com  Tue Jul  7 17:04:33 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 19:04:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A side curtains
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907071604t7fbc481br581f6e5b8e49ed6f@mail.gmail.com>

My car came with side curtain frames with scratched plastic windows and not
much else.  Before having these redone I want to make sure that they fit on
the car properly.  I need help in the definition of properly.
First of all they do not close at the top but I suspect that there is some
"forming" of the connection points to improve that situation.
What is very concerning to me is that at the leading edge where the point
meets the windscreen stanchion there is real pressure against the paint
which is certain to damage it badly upon opening and closing the doors.  As
well, I cannot get these to fit anywhere near close with the wind wings on.

Although the window frame is flat, the four points from the bottom of the
stanchion to the top of the stanchion and the body behind the door up to the
hood is not.  The frame requires about a 3/4"twist in order to close the gap
at the back of the side curtain.  Obviously this leaves an increasing gap
from front to back where the side curtain meets the hood.
My interior is not original, nor is my hood, and I have not as yet fixed the
side curtain plates to the doors as yet as I do not want to make holes until
I know where I am with this.
Is there any advice OTHER THAN wear a raincoat?

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Jul  7 19:47:37 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 19:47:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] tire protection
In-Reply-To: <009a01c9ff55$42a01420$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <mailman.5.1246989602.16683.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<009a01c9ff55$42a01420$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <DFA69FAD6FD34B89A3FB0B417E3E6B0B@bboffice>

SPF-60 ? 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 4:50 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tire protection

Hello,
What does the list recommend for tire protection. Have new tires on the
everyday driver. When the sun hit them you could smell rubber from 10 feet
away. Looking for UV protection not necessarily shine. The TR6 is in the
garage :). Thank you. Regards, Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441) Database version:
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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Jul  7 19:51:13 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 18:51:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Waking Up TR6
Message-ID: <5362.35927.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am waking up a TR6 that has been parked in a garage for over 20 years.
The engine starts and the car drives and stops now. My question is about the
IRS. I topped up the diff. I don't see any zerks on the half shafts. Before I
get too wild on the road, what do I need to do? Pull them and  re-grease by
hand? Is there an easy way to remove and re-grease with the outer half of the
shaft still installed? How long and how hard to take the half-shafts out?    
I speak TR3 fluently and this IRS stuff is a new experience...     I am also
trying to avoid shipwrights disease.     TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Jul  7 21:42:42 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 23:42:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for steel capping pieces for TR3 doors.
In-Reply-To: <5362.35927.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <5362.35927.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <94105456A9AA437A9DB55A0EC20B2828@CarlPC>

Gathering up the odds 'n ends to take for Powder Coating.   Absent from the 
pile are the two door capping pieces. These are the ones that the round 
sponge piece sets on and is covered in leather/vinyl.

Anyone have them they would be willing to sell/trade?

I already know what is going to happen - I'll locate a pair, get them, pc 
them, and then find the ones I had sitting in a box somewhere....  ARGH!


Thanks
Carl

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  7 21:48:15 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 07 Jul 2009 20:48:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for steel capping pieces for TR3 doors.
In-Reply-To: <94105456A9AA437A9DB55A0EC20B2828@CarlPC>
References: <5362.35927.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<94105456A9AA437A9DB55A0EC20B2828@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <4A5416FF.2020508@comcast.net>

> I already know what is going to happen - I'll locate a pair, get them,
> pc them, and then find the ones I had sitting in a box somewhere....
> ARGH!
I just did that with the drivers side door latch for my TR3. I sifted
through all of the boxes in the shop looking for it. Finally I gave up
and ordered one from Moss, thinking that I must have thrown it out with
the trash. The following day I found it floating around loose in the boot!

Mike

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul  7 22:53:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 21:53:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Waking Up TR6
In-Reply-To: <5362.35927.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090708045341813.JYD19903@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> I topped up the diff.

Just my opinion, but based on what I found inside my 71 Stag diff, I would
want to drain and refill it, even if you just drop a suction hose in through
the fill plug.  I added a magnetic drain plug to the Stag.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/DSCF0025.jpg

> Pull them and  re-grease by hand?

Also a good idea, IMO.

> Is there an easy way to remove and re-grease with the outer half of
> the shaft still installed? 
> How long and how hard to take the half-shafts out?

On the Stag, it's pretty easy.  Undo the 4 bolts & nuts on each side that
link the halfshaft to the diff, then undo the clamps on the boot and slide
the spines apart.  I spent a lot of time match marking them, only to
discover that they are keyed and only go together one way.  Probably a good
time to replace the boots as well.

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul  8 00:16:47 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2009 23:16:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spitfire Database Milestone
Message-ID: <614BE3D33C5947C4BF3F8D02137563BC@joepentiumnew>

I just got finished with the monthly update of the Spitfire database and
have to announce that another milestone has been accomplished.

There are now over 12,000 spitfires listed.

Thanks to all the people who have sent in your data and for those Spit
owners who have not sent in your data, now is your chance to contribute to
the next milestone.

http://members.cox.net/spitlist/index.html

Cheers,
Joe Curry

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Jul  8 13:55:31 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 15:55:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250 main bearing replacement
Message-ID: <0567080944AC42D1B02DB2E8E395E81E@Edscomputer>

List,

Any chance the TR250 engine's main bearings can be replaced without removing
the crank? That is, slipped into place like the thrust washers?

Thanks,

Ed Woods

From mjkatona at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 14:20:33 2009
From: mjkatona at gmail.com (Mike Katona)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 13:20:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 fuel issue
Message-ID: <a210d8520907081320ib907a4u16a2e91318f5ec0@mail.gmail.com>

I am having a fuel issue with my 64 TR4 and can't seem to work it out.
 Any help would be appreciated.
After a recent tuneup and Petronix Ignitor install the car is running
wonderful until you start up a grade.  At that point the car sputters
and will eventually stop or almost stop.  It acts as if it is running
out of fuel. As soon as you reverse direction the car runs good.
The mechanical fuel pump was replaced last year.  I have drained the
tank and blown air through the fuel line (from the tank end) after
disconnecting it from the fuel pump,  I have replaced all hoses and
made sure that they are tight.  None of this has helped.
A mechanic friend suggests that I install an inline electric fuel pump.
Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Mike
-- 
retired, photographer, mule rider, lover of life

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 15:45:57 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 14:45:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 fuel issue
In-Reply-To: <a210d8520907081320ib907a4u16a2e91318f5ec0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a210d8520907081320ib907a4u16a2e91318f5ec0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5C50345208A640D2AB4950243C4142E8@jdnet.deere.com>

Mike,

My first suggestion would be to make sure it is really a fuel delivery
problem.  The old saying about "90% of all fuel problems are electrical" has
a certain amount of truth in it.

Harbor Freight has recently started carrying a test gauge that will read
fuel pressure.  I'd suggest you pick one up as it's handy for other things
as well.  'Tee' the gauge into the fuel line at the front carb with a long
enough hose that you can bring it out and prop it under a wiper blade for a
test run.

If it was a fuel problem, I would expect you to be able to continue up the
hill at a reduced speed.  The power required (and hence fuel burned) depends
greatly on how fast you are going, so if it is getting enough fuel to run 70
mph on the flat, it should still have enough to do 35 up a grade.

I'd also be tempted to switch back to points temporarily and see what effect
that has.  The Pertronix puts electronics (which are heat sensitive) inside
the distributor, where it definitely gets hotter going uphill.

-- Randall 

From dlylis at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 17:14:53 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 19:14:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 fuel issue
In-Reply-To: <a210d8520907081320ib907a4u16a2e91318f5ec0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a210d8520907081320ib907a4u16a2e91318f5ec0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907081614t45b9d5eci5b2387c250757c8f@mail.gmail.com>

I will relate a problem I had with my TR3A.  It may or may not be relevant
to your situation.  My car ran like a champ, until it didn't, and then it
did again.  Turned out it was the fuel filter.  Under certain circumstances
the crud in the filter would reduce the fuel flow.  If I pulled over and
shut off the motor, the crud would settle back into the bottom of the filter
housing, until it caused a problem again.  Oddly enough it was a clear
filter and I when inspected it by rotating it in my hand the crud would
rotate out of view.  I smartened up and used a mirror and discovered the
problem.

On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 4:20 PM, Mike Katona <mjkatona at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am having a fuel issue with my 64 TR4 and can't seem to work it out.
>  Any help would be appreciated.
> After a recent tuneup and Petronix Ignitor install the car is running
> wonderful until you start up a grade.  At that point the car sputters
> and will eventually stop or almost stop.  It acts as if it is running
> out of fuel. As soon as you reverse direction the car runs good.
> The mechanical fuel pump was replaced last year.  I have drained the
> tank and blown air through the fuel line (from the tank end) after
> disconnecting it from the fuel pump,  I have replaced all hoses and
> made sure that they are tight.  None of this has helped.
> A mechanic friend suggests that I install an inline electric fuel pump.
> Any thoughts?
> Thanks in advance.
> Mike
> --
> retired, photographer, mule rider, lover of life
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Wed Jul  8 17:45:54 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 19:45:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <5C50345208A640D2AB4950243C4142E8@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <a210d8520907081320ib907a4u16a2e91318f5ec0@mail.gmail.com>
	<5C50345208A640D2AB4950243C4142E8@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>

List:

I need some help before I go nuts.  I am literally dreaming about this
problem and concentrating at work ?  Not a chance.

I recently "finished" a second TR3 (yes, the one which ran lean) and now
have an electrical problem I can't figure out.  The car is wired EXACTLY the
same as the other TR3, but the battery is not charging.  I swapped the
alternators between the cars and the same thing happened.  The ammeter
records a negative draw, but nothing positive.

Suggestions ?

Andrew Uprichard

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul  8 18:28:43 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 17:28:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
References: <a210d8520907081320ib907a4u16a2e91318f5ec0@mail.gmail.com>
	<5C50345208A640D2AB4950243C4142E8@jdnet.deere.com>
	<DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <373220.41349.qm@web111608.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Andrew
when you went to an alternator you also went to neg ground? y/n?
if you
went to negative ground you have to swap the wires on your amp meter.
have you
killed the battery yet? or is it you just see draw and not charge?
frank
fisher




________________________________
From: Andrew Uprichard
<auprichard at comcast.net>
To: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr..com>;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 8, 2009 4:45:54 PM
Subject: [TR]
Aarghhhhh !

List:

I need some help before I go nuts.  I am literally
dreaming about this
problem and concentrating at work ?  Not a chance.

I
recently "finished" a second TR3 (yes, the one which ran lean) and now
have an
electrical problem I can't figure out.  The car is wired EXACTLY the
same as
the other TR3, but the battery is not charging.  I swapped the
alternators
between the cars and the same thing happened.  The ammeter
records a negative
draw, but nothing positive.

Suggestions ?

Andrew Uprichard
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
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From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 19:21:20 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 01:21:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <0016e64766065cafe8046e3bac81@google.com>

On Jul 8, 2009 7:45pm, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net> wrote:
> List:
> I need some help before I go nuts. I recently "finished" a second TR3  
> (yes, the one which ran lean) and now
> have an electrical problem I can't figure out. The car is wired EXACTLY  
> the
> same as the other TR3, but the battery is not charging.
> Suggestions ?


Andrew - swap the control boxes. I think the one in the recently finished  
car isn't working. Swapping doesn't take long. I spent hours with the Lucas  
diagnostic manual to eventually throw my hands up and say 'Fuggit, I need  
one of those'. That fixed, it.
It had worked until I switched to neg earth, and that croaked it.

Cheers,

Brian

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 19:21:27 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 01:21:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <0016e64eca3cc591a2046e3bace5@google.com>

On Jul 8, 2009 7:45pm, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net> wrote:
> List:
> I need some help before I go nuts. I recently "finished" a second TR3  
> (yes, the one which ran lean) and now
> have an electrical problem I can't figure out. The car is wired EXACTLY  
> the
> same as the other TR3, but the battery is not charging.
> Suggestions ?


Andrew - swap the control boxes. I think the one in the recently finished  
car isn't working. Swapping doesn't take long. I spent hours with the Lucas  
diagnostic manual to eventually throw my hands up and say 'Fuggit, I need  
one of those'. That fixed, it.
It had worked until I switched to neg earth, and that croaked it.

Cheers,

Brian

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul  8 19:56:50 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 18:56:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <0016e64766065cafe8046e3bac81@google.com>
References: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
	<0016e64766065cafe8046e3bac81@google.com>
Message-ID: <FD3A677E18BF4272B9D65F660F731F94@joepentiumnew>

Brian,
Andrew stated that he swapped "Alternators" leading me to believe that he
doesn't have a control box as required of an original generator.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR4Zest at gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 6:21 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Aarghhhhh !

On Jul 8, 2009 7:45pm, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net> wrote:
> List:
> I need some help before I go nuts. I recently "finished" a second TR3  
> (yes, the one which ran lean) and now
> have an electrical problem I can't figure out. The car is wired EXACTLY  
> the
> same as the other TR3, but the battery is not charging.
> Suggestions ?


Andrew - swap the control boxes. I think the one in the recently finished  
car isn't working. Swapping doesn't take long. I spent hours with the Lucas

diagnostic manual to eventually throw my hands up and say 'Fuggit, I need  
one of those'. That fixed, it.
It had worked until I switched to neg earth, and that croaked it.

Cheers,

Brian
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Jul  8 20:10:56 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 22:10:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250 main bearing replacement
In-Reply-To: <0567080944AC42D1B02DB2E8E395E81E@Edscomputer>
References: <0567080944AC42D1B02DB2E8E395E81E@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <DeAW1c00L5Bccag05eAX6m@charter.net>

At 03:55 PM 7/8/2009, Ed Woods wrote:
>List,
>
>Any chance the TR250 engine's main bearings can be replaced without removing
>the crank? That is, slipped into place like the thrust washers?

I have rolled in new bearings in a Spitfire with almost no trouble, I 
don't know why a TR4 should be different.  The only problem I had was 
the top half of the rear main bearing.  I left the old one in with no 
apparent trouble, If I'd been clever, I'd have made a pin to slip in 
the oil hole in the crank to push the old shell out and the new one 
in.  The rest went out and in by hand.

Make sure the pin has a head larger than the oil hole...you wouldn't 
want to lose it in there.




Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Wed Jul  8 20:15:05 2009
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:15:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Waking Up TR6
In-Reply-To: <5362.35927.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <5362.35927.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <97981B577A4441469579D552572F19AB@Scott>

Bill:

I am sure that I am stating the obvious, but your description of getting too
wild on the road caused me to feel a need to state this.  Any car that has
been sitting in storage for 20 years needs a complete go over with all
rubber hoses, belts and tires to be replaced.  They may look fine but 20
years causes lots of rot and frankly, need addressed before driving the TR
too much.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 9:51 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Waking Up TR6

     I am waking up a TR6 that has been parked in a garage for over 20
years.
The engine starts and the car drives and stops now. My question is about the
IRS. I topped up the diff. I don't see any zerks on the half shafts. Before
I
get too wild on the road, what do I need to do? Pull them and  re-grease by
hand? Is there an easy way to remove and re-grease with the outer half of
the
shaft still installed? How long and how hard to take the half-shafts out?

I speak TR3 fluently and this IRS stuff is a new experience...     I am also
trying to avoid shipwrights disease.     TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi
_______________________________________________

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul  8 20:57:15 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 21:57:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR250 main bearing replacement
In-Reply-To: <0567080944AC42D1B02DB2E8E395E81E@Edscomputer>
References: <0567080944AC42D1B02DB2E8E395E81E@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <20090709025740.8B7DE18786D@autox.team.net>

It can be done in a TR-2/3/4, not sure about the 6 cylinder, 
though.  Measure the crank well so you are reasonably certain the 
clearances will be OK.

- Tony Drews

At 02:55 PM 7/8/2009, Ed Woods wrote:
>List,
>
>Any chance the TR250 engine's main bearings can be replaced without removing
>the crank? That is, slipped into place like the thrust washers?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ed Woods

From twr at frii.com  Wed Jul  8 21:09:00 2009
From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 21:09:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear hubs
Message-ID: <1247108940.3517.199.camel@localhost.localdomain>

Hi,

My son and I have moved on to the rear axles
and brakes on the TR3 while we continue to wait
for work to be done on the engine in the machine
shop.  So far, we have been able to remove the 
rear brake drum and the axle nut from the shaft,
but the hub won't budge.  Shouldn't that just 
come off with a wheel puller?  I cranked on it
with my puller and couldn't get it to move at
all, and my puller started to bend and warp, 
which makes me think I may be missing something??

Is there something else necessary for getting
the hub off?

Thanks!

Todd Richmond
Fort Collins, Colorado
1959 TR3A TS54425L

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Wed Jul  8 21:13:33 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 20:13:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tr4A Fuel Line Issue
Message-ID: <148979.12391.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

List,
(Not sure if this was sent before, apologies if it was--having computer
problems.)  I'm having my TR4A restored at a garage (a partial restoration)
and have a question regarding the fuel line that wraps around the air
filters.  The line was rerouted behind the carbs.  (Please see the Link below
for pics if interested.)  I was told the original was shot--bent, ugly,
whatever.  The modified version was made at the garage.  I like the looks of
it and to restore the line to original shouldn't be a very big deal, if I ever
decided I wanted to go the "purest" way....I am concerned about heat.  Does
anyone think the line is too close to the exhaust manifold or engine itself to
create a problem?

Thank you all for any replies/observations.
Pat
http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/?newest=1

From tom628 at verizon.net  Wed Jul  8 21:25:26 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 23:25:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tr4A Fuel Line Issue
References: <148979.12391.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <08FD288E35EA4AE69ECCC8732D7EA780@Toms>

Pat:  That doesn't look to close to me. Nice looking installation.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "P Caffrey" <pcaffrey at ymail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 08, 2009 11:13 PM
Subject: [TR] Tr4A Fuel Line Issue


> List,
> (Not sure if this was sent before, apologies if it was--having computer
> problems.)  I'm having my TR4A restored at a garage (a partial 
> restoration)
> and have a question regarding the fuel line that wraps around the air
> filters.  The line was rerouted behind the carbs.  (Please see the Link 
> below
> for pics if interested.)  I was told the original was shot--bent, ugly,
> whatever.  The modified version was made at the garage.  I like the looks 
> of
> it and to restore the line to original shouldn't be a very big deal, if I 
> ever
> decided I wanted to go the "purest" way....I am concerned about heat. 
> Does
> anyone think the line is too close to the exhaust manifold or engine 
> itself to
> create a problem?
>
> Thank you all for any replies/observations.
> Pat
> http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/?newest=1
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul  8 21:46:38 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 22:46:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear hubs
In-Reply-To: <1247108940.3517.199.camel@localhost.localdomain>
References: <1247108940.3517.199.camel@localhost.localdomain>
Message-ID: <20090709034645.3B86D187879@autox.team.net>

Yeah, a 50 ton press and a good fixture to avoid destroying the 
hub.  PITA to get off.

- Tony Drews

At 10:09 PM 7/8/2009, Todd Richmond wrote:
>Hi,
>
>My son and I have moved on to the rear axles
>and brakes on the TR3 while we continue to wait
>for work to be done on the engine in the machine
>shop.  So far, we have been able to remove the
>rear brake drum and the axle nut from the shaft,
>but the hub won't budge.  Shouldn't that just
>come off with a wheel puller?  I cranked on it
>with my puller and couldn't get it to move at
>all, and my puller started to bend and warp,
>which makes me think I may be missing something??
>
>Is there something else necessary for getting
>the hub off?
>
>Thanks!
>
>Todd Richmond
>Fort Collins, Colorado
>1959 TR3A TS54425L

From tony at tonydrews.com  Wed Jul  8 21:49:02 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 22:49:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr4A Fuel Line Issue
In-Reply-To: <148979.12391.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <148979.12391.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090709034910.1FBBF187A51@autox.team.net>

Should be fine.  Nice.

- Tony Drews

At 10:13 PM 7/8/2009, P Caffrey wrote:
>List,
>(Not sure if this was sent before, apologies if it was--having computer
>problems.)  I'm having my TR4A restored at a garage (a partial restoration)
>and have a question regarding the fuel line that wraps around the air
>filters.  The line was rerouted behind the carbs.  (Please see the Link below
>for pics if interested.)  I was told the original was shot--bent, ugly,
>whatever.  The modified version was made at the garage.  I like the looks of
>it and to restore the line to original shouldn't be a very big deal, if I ever
>decided I wanted to go the "purest" way....I am concerned about heat.  Does
>anyone think the line is too close to the exhaust manifold or engine itself to
>create a problem?
>
>Thank you all for any replies/observations.
>Pat
>http://s727.photobucket.com/albums/ww276/pcaffrey1/?newest=1

From emanteno at gmail.com  Wed Jul  8 22:07:35 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 23:07:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear hubs
In-Reply-To: <1247108940.3517.199.camel@localhost.localdomain>
References: <1247108940.3517.199.camel@localhost.localdomain>
Message-ID: <354a1780907082107o2d734327l29fd22699658057c@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 10:09 PM, Todd Richmond <twr at frii.com> wrote:

>
> Is there something else necessary for getting
> the hub off?


What Tony said, or else access to the special Churchill tool designed to do
this. The axle is tapered with a keyway and key. The hub fits on the taper,
and tit akes a LOT of force to get the parts to separate. You must be
careful doing this in a press, or you will bend and destroy the hub. It's
always interesting when the parts finally do come apart, it often sounds
like a gunshot.

HTH,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From don at napanet.net  Wed Jul  8 22:50:00 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Wed, 08 Jul 2009 21:50:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 Buyer's Guide
In-Reply-To: <354a1780907082107o2d734327l29fd22699658057c@mail.gmail.com
  >
References: <1247108940.3517.199.camel@localhost.localdomain>
	<354a1780907082107o2d734327l29fd22699658057c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090708213834.034d1eb8@pop.napanet.net>

Hello TR guys,
The current copy (July 2009) of Classic & Sports Car magazine has an 
article on buying TR4 and TR4A.  I picked up a copy because I'm in the 
market for a 4.  These glossy British vintage car magazines are a real 
treat regardless, but the price is not ($8.50).  I used to buy C&SC and 
Thoroughbred and Classic Cars magazine regularly, but now with weak dollar 
the price is quite steep, and you can't find 'em on the newstand in the US 
in very many places.
Don Scott
2001 Miata SE BRG
1962 MGA Mk II
1973 MGB GT
1962 TR4 (seeking)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 22:56:55 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 21:56:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A rear hubs
In-Reply-To: <354a1780907082107o2d734327l29fd22699658057c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090709045655069.FQEN21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> What Tony said, or else access to the special Churchill tool designed to
> do this. 

If this works, here is another way to do it:
http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-download_file.php?fileId=24

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 23:02:03 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:02:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR250 main bearing replacement
In-Reply-To: <DeAW1c00L5Bccag05eAX6m@charter.net>
Message-ID: <20090709050203255.JHHY19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> The only problem I had was
> the top half of the rear main bearing.  

When I did it on my TR3A, I pounded one of the old lower inserts flat and
used it as a drift to start the upper inserts out.  Of course you have to
pay attention, they only come out one way.  But once they are out by 1/4" or
so, I was able to pinch the locating tab against the crank journal with my
thumb, and rotate the crank to pull the bearing out.

Another trick I've read of is to bend a cotter pin to stuff in the oil hole.

But I have no idea if it's possible on a TR250 motor.

Randall

From jeffn at msystech.com  Wed Jul  8 23:07:24 2009
From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 01:07:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] how to purchase Dan Master's book
Message-ID: <271D7DE854714B859B114370A02B7539@pistol>

Does any know how to purchase Dan Masters' book on TR6 electrical wiring and
suggestions? It seems all the links are dead.

Thanks,
Jeff N.



Jeff Nathanson, D. Sc.

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Jul  8 23:12:39 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:12:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Overdrive for Sale A-type
Message-ID: <228987.80682.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

http://cleveland.craigslist.org/pts/1228745400.html
     There is a early TR6 transmission with A-type OD for sale on Cleveland's
craigslist for $750 if anyone is interested. 
     Bill in Tehachapi

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul  8 23:59:09 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2009 22:59:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] how to purchase Dan Master's book
In-Reply-To: <271D7DE854714B859B114370A02B7539@pistol>
Message-ID: <20090709055909391.JWEN19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Does any know how to purchase Dan Masters' book on TR6 electrical wiring
> and
> suggestions? It seems all the links are dead.

Both Moss and TRF have it listed for sale.  I don't believe Dan sells them
directly any more.

Randall

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 02:41:57 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 08:41:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <FD3A677E18BF4272B9D65F660F731F94@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <0016e64617c416c99f046e41d4ed@google.com>

Joe: ah, I missed that. Good point.

Brian

On Jul 8, 2009 9:56pm, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:
> Brian,

> Andrew stated that he swapped "Alternators" leading me to believe that he
> doesn't have a control box as required of an original generator.
> Joe

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  9 03:40:51 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 09:40:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR250 main bearing replacement
In-Reply-To: <20090709050203255.JHHY19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <DeAW1c00L5Bccag05eAX6m@charter.net>
	<20090709050203255.JHHY19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W439F5AB8095D523FE73C54E5260@phx.gbl>

I recall from 40 years ago that there were special pins sold that were "T"
shaped.  You would insert the pin into the oil hole in the crank and then
rotate the crank toward the locating tab on the bearing insert.  The pin would
push the bearing out.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage_062009

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  9 07:08:26 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 08:08:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] how to purchase Dan Master's book
In-Reply-To: <271D7DE854714B859B114370A02B7539@pistol>
References: <271D7DE854714B859B114370A02B7539@pistol>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W20FD16F48DB903A0103892E1260@phx.gbl>

On another list they said that TRF has it. Moss might also.


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> From: jeffn at msystech.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 01:07:24 -0400
> Subject: [TR] how to purchase Dan Master's book
>
> Does any know how to purchase Dan Masters' book on TR6 electrical wiring
and
> suggestions? It seems all the links are dead.
>
> Thanks,
> Jeff N.
>
>
>
> Jeff Nathanson, D. Sc.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jul  9 07:34:06 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 13:34:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Waking Up TR6
In-Reply-To: <97981B577A4441469579D552572F19AB@Scott>
Message-ID: <1003017522.59391247146446511.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I am waking up a TR6 that has been parked in a garage for over 20 years. The
engine starts and the car drives and stops now. My question is about >the IRS.
I topped up the diff. I don't see any zerks on the half shafts. BeforeI get
too wild on the road, what do I need to do?



Bill, I know you already know this, but to echo Scott's theme about belts and
rubber, my biggest worry would be brakes.B  I know you said the car stops
now.B  I'm worried the wheel cylinders are crudded up and could let you down
on the road, or that there might be inside out corrosion in the brakelines
that could cause a rupture during an energetic braking, when you need it most.



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire (in New Orleans for the next 5 days)

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Thu Jul  9 07:39:49 2009
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 08:39:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Empty trailer Colorado > Alabama - Late August
Message-ID: <B14C8748E5C1480C93F2AC8FB8EDCD07@aitinc.local>

I may have an empty trailer coming from Denver Colorado to North Alabama in
late August. If you need a small car moved I may be able to help you out.

Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  9 08:12:54 2009
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 10:12:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] how to purchase Dan Master's book
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W20FD16F48DB903A0103892E1260@phx.gbl>
References: <271D7DE854714B859B114370A02B7539@pistol>
	<BAY123-W20FD16F48DB903A0103892E1260@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0907090712p5d706c23qe9e95c891f3145c6@mail.gmail.com>

see TRF's item RFP605 -
http://www.zeni.net/trf/specials6.15/2.php?s_wt=1024&s_ht=768


On Thu, Jul 9, 2009 at 9:08 AM, Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> wrote:

> On another list they said that TRF has it. Moss might also.

-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul  9 08:14:30 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 10:14:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Newbie
Message-ID: <000d01ca009f$93db3fe0$bb91bfa0$@rr.com>

Hello, Triumph fans -
 
I am not a Triumph guy, but have a '66 Austin-Healey 3000 (since 1984) and a
'73 MG Midget (since 1987).  I've been on the Healeys list for 13 years and
just signed up here.
  
I'm helping a neighbor resuscitate a '79 Spitfire 1500 that he bought on
eBay.  At the moment, we are rebuilding the clutch system.  
My question is:  how do you disassemble the clutch master?   The Haynes
manual isn't much help.  It says (page 135, section 3):
"5.  Referring to Fig. 5.3 pull off the rubber boot to expose the circlip
which must be removed so the pushrod complete with metal retaining washer
can be pulled out of the master cylinder."  [DONE]
"6.  With a small electrical screwdriver lift the tag [tab?] on the spring
retainer..."  This step appears to apply to the valve assembly inside the
cylinder, but nothing tells you how to get the valve out.  The piston is
free to move and the cylinder bore is clean.  Air pressure will push the
piston out only until the reservoir port is uncovered, then pressure is lost
and the piston stops.  Is it supposed to be shaken out somehow?  I haven't
had any luck so far doing that, and before I bust something I thought I
would ask the experts.  Although I suspected it would happen I tried it
anyway - pressurizing the cylinder with the reservoir cap on it just blew
the cap off.
 
Thanks very much!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul  9 08:30:30 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 10:30:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear hubs
Message-ID: <C828AC6EA3F8433DBFBD0B1FA807DE3A@Edscomputer>

List,

In the process of dismantling a TR3, it always seems reasonable to complete
the process by removing the rear hubs from their axles, but how many of us
have ever found a TR3 rear hub bearing in need of replacement? And, how many
of us realize that the seal is only a grease seal, not an oil seal and,
further, that its purpose is probably more to keep nasty stuff out of the
bearing than to keep grease in it?

Ed Woods

With a pair of spare axles and hubs for my TR3, a life time supply.

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul  9 08:33:21 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 10:33:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR250 main bearing replacement
References: <0567080944AC42D1B02DB2E8E395E81E@Edscomputer>
	<DeAW1c00L5Bccag05eAX6m@charter.net>
Message-ID: <9EEB17D4B540470AA0CB5542E11EDEE1@Edscomputer>

Jeff and All,

Thanks for the advice on the TR6 main bearing replacement. I'll give it a 
try.

Ed

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Scarbrough" 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul  9 08:41:26 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 07:41:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Newbie
In-Reply-To: <000d01ca009f$93db3fe0$bb91bfa0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20090709144127013.YEPN2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Air pressure will push the
> piston out only until the reservoir port is uncovered, then pressure is
> lost
> and the piston stops.  Is it supposed to be shaken out somehow?

Sometimes, rapping the cylinder on the (wooden) bench will coax it out.
Another trick that sometimes works is to spray some lubricant (penetrating
oil or whatever) into the area, then use a rod to press the piston all the
way in and let it spring out.

I've also on occasion resorted to using a hone to clean and slightly open
the bore at the end, around the circlip groove.

Randall

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul  9 08:51:12 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 10:51:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Newbie
In-Reply-To: <20090709144127013.YEPN2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <000d01ca009f$93db3fe0$bb91bfa0$@rr.com>
	<20090709144127013.YEPN2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <001a01ca00a4$b47678a0$1d6369e0$@rr.com>

Thanks very much, Randall -
I have tried honing the bore from the circlip groove out, the lubricating
oil thing and pressing in/letting the piston spring out.  So far, no joy,
but maybe I haven't given it enough tries.  It sounds like there is no
mechanical reason why the valve assembly will not come out.  If that is so,
then I'll keep trying.

Cheers!
Steve

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2009 10:41 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Newbie

> Air pressure will push the
> piston out only until the reservoir port is uncovered, then pressure is
> lost
> and the piston stops.  Is it supposed to be shaken out somehow?

Sometimes, rapping the cylinder on the (wooden) bench will coax it out.
Another trick that sometimes works is to spray some lubricant (penetrating
oil or whatever) into the area, then use a rod to press the piston all the
way in and let it spring out.

I've also on occasion resorted to using a hone to clean and slightly open
the bore at the end, around the circlip groove.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul  9 08:52:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 07:52:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20090709145202483.SCXM19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> I recently "finished" a second TR3 (yes, the one which ran lean) and now
> have an electrical problem I can't figure out.  The car is wired EXACTLY
> the
> same as the other TR3, but the battery is not charging.  I swapped the
> alternators between the cars and the same thing happened.  The ammeter
> records a negative draw, but nothing positive.
> 
> Suggestions ?

I've been mulling this over, and decided that what I think you mean is
impossible.  Are you sure the ammeter shows charge on the other car?  Many
of the directions found on the web and other places say to connect the
alternator such that the charge does not appear on the ammeter; since the
alternator can put out more than the 30 amps that the stock ammeter is
designed to handle.

Some alternators seem to rely more on the current through the warning light
than others do.  For my alternator conversion, I found that the stock
warning light did not pass enough current for the alternator to reliably
start working at modest rpm.  After I got tired of having to rev to 3500 rpm
to "wake up" the alternator, I added a resistor across the warning light to
pass more current.  Don't recall the value offhand, but I can get it tonight
if you want.

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul  9 08:55:15 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 07:55:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Newbie
In-Reply-To: <000d01ca009f$93db3fe0$bb91bfa0$@rr.com>
References: <000d01ca009f$93db3fe0$bb91bfa0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <3C8DF676FD9842CD92C399CA302B6B80@joepentiumnew>

Steve,
Often corrosion is all that keeps the piston from sliding out once the
pushrod is removed.  I have found that the best way to get a stuck piston
out is to bang it gingerly on a block of wood until the piston comes all the
way to the front of the bore.  Then angle the master a bit and bang the
thing on the wood so that only the edge contacts the surface, allowing the
piston to come clear of the body.

The wood will not damage the aluminum body.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2009 7:15 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Newbie

Hello, Triumph fans -
 
I am not a Triumph guy, but have a '66 Austin-Healey 3000 (since 1984) and a
'73 MG Midget (since 1987).  I've been on the Healeys list for 13 years and
just signed up here.
  
I'm helping a neighbor resuscitate a '79 Spitfire 1500 that he bought on
eBay.  At the moment, we are rebuilding the clutch system.  
My question is:  how do you disassemble the clutch master?   The Haynes
manual isn't much help.  It says (page 135, section 3):
"5.  Referring to Fig. 5.3 pull off the rubber boot to expose the circlip
which must be removed so the pushrod complete with metal retaining washer
can be pulled out of the master cylinder."  [DONE]
"6.  With a small electrical screwdriver lift the tag [tab?] on the spring
retainer..."  This step appears to apply to the valve assembly inside the
cylinder, but nothing tells you how to get the valve out.  The piston is
free to move and the cylinder bore is clean.  Air pressure will push the
piston out only until the reservoir port is uncovered, then pressure is lost
and the piston stops.  Is it supposed to be shaken out somehow?  I haven't
had any luck so far doing that, and before I bust something I thought I
would ask the experts.  Although I suspected it would happen I tried it
anyway - pressurizing the cylinder with the reservoir cap on it just blew
the cap off.
 
Thanks very much!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

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From twr at frii.com  Thu Jul  9 09:06:07 2009
From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond)
Date: Thu, 09 Jul 2009 09:06:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear hubs
In-Reply-To: <C828AC6EA3F8433DBFBD0B1FA807DE3A@Edscomputer>
References: <C828AC6EA3F8433DBFBD0B1FA807DE3A@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <1247151967.3517.224.camel@localhost.localdomain>

Ah, that is exactly what I began to wonder after 
hearing how difficult it is to get these things 
apart!  If the rest of my car is any indication,
then it's a good bet it's found a way to get itself
into a condition that it needs to be replaced.  :)

Still, I'd be interested to hear if this belongs 
on Terry Wakemans indestructible parts list, and
whether I might be able to get away with not tearing
this apart after all.

Thanks!

Todd Richmond
Fort Collins, Colorado
1959 TR3A TS54425L


On Thu, 2009-07-09 at 10:30 -0400, Ed Woods wrote:
> List,
> 
> In the process of dismantling a TR3, it always seems reasonable to complete
> the process by removing the rear hubs from their axles, but how many of us
> have ever found a TR3 rear hub bearing in need of replacement? And, how many
> of us realize that the seal is only a grease seal, not an oil seal and,
> further, that its purpose is probably more to keep nasty stuff out of the
> bearing than to keep grease in it?
> 
> Ed Woods
> 
> With a pair of spare axles and hubs for my TR3, a life time supply.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as twr at frii.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Jul  9 11:05:04 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 13:05:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Resevoir port
References: <20090709144127013.YEPN2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <538247E709CE4D42A7A799D652AEA02B@Edscomputer>

The resevoir port can be plugged with an SAE bolt.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul  9 11:45:57 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 10:45:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Resevoir port
In-Reply-To: <538247E709CE4D42A7A799D652AEA02B@Edscomputer>
References: <20090709144127013.YEPN2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<538247E709CE4D42A7A799D652AEA02B@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <0394A711F6734B549F0439800C914837@jdnet.deere.com>

> The resevoir port can be plugged with an SAE bolt.

That's true on the TR3/A style MC, with the remote reservoir.  However, the
OP was asking about a Spitfire with the integral reservoir (similar to
TR4-6).

-- Randall 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul  9 14:49:12 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Thu,  9 Jul 2009 16:49:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Newbie
Message-ID: <20090709164912.CKS51671@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote:
> I have found that the best way to get a stuck piston
> out is to bang it gingerly on a block of wood until...

That's what I've done.  Just to fill in the dumb things that some of us forget occasionally (and I ain't sayin' who), you must first remove the circlip which holds the piston in the cylinder.
--
Jim Muller, and it wasn't me

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul  9 17:56:06 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 16:56:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <0F5B6AA1255D4322A75416319A2AA2FF@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20090709235606425.GOCW21390@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> 2.  BUT.....the battery is not holding a charge.  I guess that could be a
> bad battery, but could it be anything else?  Is there any way there could
> be a slow drain of the charge?

Sure, all it takes is a high resistance short somewhere.  Could even be
inside the alternator.

Toughest one I've ever fought was on a 70 Audi, where the battery would
mysteriously discharge overnight only sporadically.  Days, weeks or even
months with no problem; then for 3 or 4 days in a row I would come out to a
dead battery.  Not just low, but stone dead.

Finally discovered that problem, more by luck than anything else ... went to
dinner with some friends in their car and walked by the Audi afterwards, so
I could see the warning light for the rear window defogger glowing.  Turns
out there was some dirt (and possibly salt spray) on the relay for the
defogger grid that would get wet with dew and conduct just enough from the
hot terminal to the control terminal, to energize the relay.  New relay and
the problem never happened again.

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 10 01:36:08 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 00:36:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Newbie
In-Reply-To: <20090709164912.CKS51671@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20090709164912.CKS51671@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <2EC2602D9429410BBA96878A4EC57B47@joepentiumnew>

Since he already indicated that he had removed the pushrod, I didn't think
it was necessary to repeat that part.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2009 1:49 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Newbie

Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote:
> I have found that the best way to get a stuck piston
> out is to bang it gingerly on a block of wood until...

That's what I've done.  Just to fill in the dumb things that some of us
forget occasionally (and I ain't sayin' who), you must first remove the
circlip which holds the piston in the cylinder.
--
Jim Muller, and it wasn't me
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Thu Jul  9 17:38:02 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2009 19:38:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <20090709145202483.SCXM19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
	<20090709145202483.SCXM19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <0F5B6AA1255D4322A75416319A2AA2FF@DCH6RFC1>

Thank you to everyone who replied, either 1:1 or to the list.

When I studies medicine, I was taught "common things occur commonly", but
with the proviso that sometimes there can be more than one thing going on.
I guess that may be the case here.

1.  The ammeter did not show charge on the other car, so I have a faulty
ammeter. Switching ammeters shows it is charging.

2.  BUT.....the battery is not holding a charge.  I guess that could be a
bad battery, but could it be anything else?  Is there any way there could be
a slow drain of the charge?

And to make matters worse, I join the prestigious group of listers who
rebuild an engine only to find a large oil puddle on the floor.  Sigh.....

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2009 10:52 AM
To: 'Andrew Uprichard'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Aarghhhhh !

> I recently "finished" a second TR3 (yes, the one which ran lean) and now
> have an electrical problem I can't figure out.  The car is wired EXACTLY
> the
> same as the other TR3, but the battery is not charging.  I swapped the
> alternators between the cars and the same thing happened.  The ammeter
> records a negative draw, but nothing positive.
> 
> Suggestions ?

I've been mulling this over, and decided that what I think you mean is
impossible.  Are you sure the ammeter shows charge on the other car?  Many
of the directions found on the web and other places say to connect the
alternator such that the charge does not appear on the ammeter; since the
alternator can put out more than the 30 amps that the stock ammeter is
designed to handle.

Some alternators seem to rely more on the current through the warning light
than others do.  For my alternator conversion, I found that the stock
warning light did not pass enough current for the alternator to reliably
start working at modest rpm.  After I got tired of having to rev to 3500 rpm
to "wake up" the alternator, I added a resistor across the warning light to
pass more current.  Don't recall the value offhand, but I can get it tonight
if you want.

Randall

From auprichard at comcast.net  Fri Jul 10 07:28:04 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 09:28:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear crankcase oil seal
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60907100542v3b011a6bid588ceea0dda176@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
	<20090709145202483.SCXM19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<0F5B6AA1255D4322A75416319A2AA2FF@DCH6RFC1>
	<2a7657b60907100542v3b011a6bid588ceea0dda176@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B46BF9A195AF4DCB9190A80F425456C4@DCH6RFC1>

Yes - I used the "new improved rear seal".

 

As many listers may know, my cousin Darryl Uprichard owns Racetorations in
the UK - a shop dedicated to the TR franchise. I spoke to him this week and
he too was removing a newly-rebuilt engine because of a leaking rear seal.
He told me he had designed a new seal he was taking to the International
Show next week and which he would be using exclusively in the future.  

 

I don't know when the seal will be ready for prime time, and I am NOT
endorsing the product in any way, but I am so fed up with a newly rebuilt
engine having to be removed from a newly painted car:  I will wait until
Racetorations has the seal done and will get one from them.

 

To answer your specific question it's my understanding that the engine
should be pulled to do this.

 

Andrew Uprichard

 

  _____  

From: David Lylis [mailto:dlylis at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 8:43 AM
To: Andrew Uprichard
Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Aarghhhhh !

 

Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net> wrote:

And to make matters worse, I join the prestigious group of listers who
rebuild an engine only to find a large oil puddle on the floor.  Sigh.....


Did you use the "new improved rear seal"?  
I am not ready to tackle that as yet but am now just contemplating the plan
of attack.  ISTR that I can get the seal housing off by removing the
flywheel, but the big question is, can I replace the seal with everything in
situ.  Will I have to open the seal too far to get around the crank, and
will I be able to get the spring in place?  Frankly, doing this the first
time was long ago and far away and the block was all apart. 

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 10 07:51:39 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 09:51:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear crankcase oil seal
In-Reply-To: <B46BF9A195AF4DCB9190A80F425456C4@DCH6RFC1>
References: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
	<20090709145202483.SCXM19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<0F5B6AA1255D4322A75416319A2AA2FF@DCH6RFC1>
	<2a7657b60907100542v3b011a6bid588ceea0dda176@mail.gmail.com>
	<B46BF9A195AF4DCB9190A80F425456C4@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <f99bbf590907100651r26393541ua1a7e351f351b8c8@mail.gmail.com>

One of the things Uncle Jack found when he started using the new
improved rear seals in his race car was the instructions weren't quite
accurate.  I might be mistaken as I don't have my notes in front of me
but I think the diameter you are instructed to turn the crank was to
be turned to ended up being just a little to small in diameter.  Also
I believe he shortened the spring slightly to provide more tension and
I remember something about cutting the seal length down a little.

You could probably search the FOT email archives and come up with the
appropriate information.  If not I might be able to find my notes.
Sorry I can't provide the specific details but its been a LONG time
since Jack and I discussed the issue.  Tony might chime in with better
information as well.


Brad


On Fri, Jul 10, 2009 at 9:28 AM, Andrew Uprichard<auprichard at comcast.net>
wrote:
> Yes - I used the "new improved rear seal".
>
>
>
> As many listers may know, my cousin Darryl Uprichard owns Racetorations in
> the UK - a shop dedicated to the TR franchise. I spoke to him this week and
> he too was removing a newly-rebuilt engine because of a leaking rear seal.
> He told me he had designed a new seal he was taking to the International
> Show next week and which he would be using exclusively in the future.
>
>
>
> I don't know when the seal will be ready for prime time, and I am NOT
> endorsing the product in any way, but I am so fed up with a newly rebuilt
> engine having to be removed from a newly painted car:  I will wait until
> Racetorations has the seal done and will get one from them.
>
>
>
> To answer your specific question it's my understanding that the engine
> should be pulled to do this.
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
>
>
>  _____
>
> From: David Lylis [mailto:dlylis at gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 8:43 AM
> To: Andrew Uprichard
> Cc: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
>
>
>
> Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> And to make matters worse, I join the prestigious group of listers who
> rebuild an engine only to find a large oil puddle on the floor.  Sigh.....
>
>
> Did you use the "new improved rear seal"?
> I am not ready to tackle that as yet but am now just contemplating the plan
> of attack.  ISTR that I can get the seal housing off by removing the
> flywheel, but the big question is, can I replace the seal with everything
in
> situ.  Will I have to open the seal too far to get around the crank, and
> will I be able to get the spring in place?  Frankly, doing this the first
> time was long ago and far away and the block was all apart.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as brad.kahler at 141.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 10 08:13:04 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 07:13:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Aarghhhhh !
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60907100542v3b011a6bid588ceea0dda176@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090710141304662.KHXS24657@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> I am not ready to tackle that as yet but am now just contemplating the
> plan of attack.  ISTR that I can get the seal housing off by removing the
> flywheel, but the big question is, can I replace the seal with everything
> in situ.  

Assuming you mean you have already installed the lip-type seal, and are just
trying to get it to work, it can be done.  Whether it is advisable or not is
a different question <G>

Check out the write-up from British Frame and Engine at
http://www.socaltriumphs.org/docs/mainseal.htm

Randall

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Jul 10 08:18:10 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:18:10 GMT
Subject: [TR] Rear crankcase oil seal
Message-ID: <200907100818671.SM01680@[166.70.182.42]>

One of the things Uncle Jack found when he started using the new
improved rear seals in his race car was the instructions weren't quite
accurate.

I might be mistaken as I don't have my notes in front of me
but I think the diameter you are instructed to turn the crank was to
be turned to ended up being just a little to small in diameter.  I think
he ended up increasing the diameter slightly.  Also I believe he shortened
the spring slightly to provide more tension and I remember something
about cutting the seal length down a little.

You could probably search the FOT email archives and come up with the
appropriate information.  If not I might be able to find my notes.

Sorry I can't provide the specific details but its been a LONG time
since Jack and I discussed the issue.  Tony might chime in with better
information as well.

Then again, I could be totally confused here!

Brad

From tony at tonydrews.com  Fri Jul 10 08:19:36 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 09:19:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear crankcase oil seal
In-Reply-To: <f99bbf590907100651r26393541ua1a7e351f351b8c8@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <DA9CE78CA24F4B8B80306670A3345AA9@DCH6RFC1>
	<20090709145202483.SCXM19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<0F5B6AA1255D4322A75416319A2AA2FF@DCH6RFC1>
	<2a7657b60907100542v3b011a6bid588ceea0dda176@mail.gmail.com>
	<B46BF9A195AF4DCB9190A80F425456C4@DCH6RFC1>
	<f99bbf590907100651r26393541ua1a7e351f351b8c8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090710141950.1CD53187662@autox.team.net>

I think I posted this once, but the message may
have been too long and didn't make it to the whole list.
http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm

 From item #1 on the Crank section of uncle jack's engine building tips:
"If you are going to install the aftermarket rear
seal, have the seal surface of the crank turned
to 2.525  whatever the current instructions may
say. These seals are leaky and they need all the
help they can get. The lip tension is too low.
Therefore, measure the length of the spring and
alter it to be exactly 8  long."

Additionally, my crank has this diameter turned
undersized.  Arrgh!  It's a very expensive Crower
billet crank, so I'm not going to get another
one.  This time around, I very carefully sliced a
little off of one end of the split portion of the
seal in addition to shortening the spring.  First
time I've got one to not leak at the rear
main.  I also ended up getting the rear main felt
stuff separately from Moss - the stuff in the
kits was not large enough in cross section.   I
cut those into 1" or less sections, dip in Indian
Head Shellac, and mash into the groove / hole.  I
use a screwdriver to mash them in but Tim Murphy
made a punch that was actually shaped like the hole - showoff.  :)

- Tony

At 08:51 AM 7/10/2009, Brad Kahler wrote:
>One of the things Uncle Jack found when he started using the new
>improved rear seals in his race car was the instructions weren't quite
>accurate.  I might be mistaken as I don't have my notes in front of me
>but I think the diameter you are instructed to turn the crank was to
>be turned to ended up being just a little to small in diameter.  Also
>I believe he shortened the spring slightly to provide more tension and
>I remember something about cutting the seal length down a little.
>
>You could probably search the FOT email archives and come up with the
>appropriate information.  If not I might be able to find my notes.
>Sorry I can't provide the specific details but its been a LONG time
>since Jack and I discussed the issue.  Tony might chime in with better
>information as well.
>
>
>Brad

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 10 08:45:45 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 07:45:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Crunched TR3A front apron available
Message-ID: <20090710144545939.FYIW2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

Does anyone have a use for a crunched TR3A front apron?  The right side is
damaged beyond my ability to repair, but the left side is pretty good.
Might make a good donor if you have one that is crunched on the left.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh260/TR3driver/DSCF0080.jpg

It's free (just the apron &/or fender, other parts negotiable) if you'll
come pick it up in Lakewood, CA (between Long Beach and Los Angeles).

Randall

From rene.p.remond at wanadoo.fr  Fri Jul 10 10:25:20 2009
From: rene.p.remond at wanadoo.fr (Rene REMOND)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 18:25:20 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR3 temperature sensor
Message-ID: <AA7A0BB971594E38A755BD1684705557@nom641695c7437>

Hi listers

on my 1958 TR3A the temperature meter fall down and now it is no working.
Do you think that it is about the sensor or the line ? is there an alternative
solution to repair or to change ?
Regards

Reni REMOND
1958 TR3 A
FRANCE

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Jul 10 10:48:44 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 09:48:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 temperature sensor
In-Reply-To: <AA7A0BB971594E38A755BD1684705557@nom641695c7437>
Message-ID: <20090710164845274.ELLJ19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> on my 1958 TR3A the temperature meter fall down and now it is no working.
> Do you think that it is about the sensor or the line ? is there an
> alternative solution to repair or to change ?

If this is the original temperature gauge, the sensor and line are not
separate items, and cannot be removed or replaced separately.  They are
filled with ether that will evaporate and disappear through the smallest
leak.  No doubt that is what has happened to your gauge.  There are various
services available that have the tools and equipment to repair your gauge
(for a price); or there are instructions on the Internet for how to try to
graft a tube and sensor from a replacement gauge onto your original gauge
while keeping the sensor cold so the ether does not evaporate during the
operation.

However, the opening in the dash and the fitting in the thermostat housing
are fairly standard dimensions, so if you do not care about originality, it
is easy to find an aftermarket gauge that will fit and work.  I have one of
these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270405679997
(which I found at my local auto parts store).

Another alternative is to fit the electrical gauge from an early TR4, which
looks very similar.  Of course you'll need to add the wiring for it, which
should include a "voltage stabilizer".

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul 10 11:29:53 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:29:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <c41.600989ac.3788d491@cs.com>


From fishplate at charter.net  Fri Jul 10 12:03:19 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 11:03:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Frame Refinishing
Message-ID: <20090710140319.6JJM6.1606929.root@mp06>

I've got a Spitfire frame that's ready to be blasted and refinished.  As I see 
it, I can do the POR-15 thing or powder coat, but I'm wondering about other's 
experiences with frame treatments, especially long-term. 
 
The estimate I've seen is about $350 - $400 to blast and powder coat.  Doesn't 
sound unreasonable... 
 
Jeff Scarbrough 
Athens, Ga. 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 10 12:20:50 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 11:20:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
Message-ID: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I completed some work on my tr-6 which required moving the rack and pinion
forward approx. 1/2 inch or so.  I put it back and have it all tightened up
however now my horn toots when I turn the steering wheel.  I'm thinking It's
possible when I moved the rack back I also pushed the steering rod up toward
the steering wheel making contact there?  Just wondering.

gary n.

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 10 13:39:49 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:39:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] Test
In-Reply-To: <c41.600989ac.3788d491@cs.com>
References: <c41.600989ac.3788d491@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W30CE7C9356AFE04F947FEEE1270@phx.gbl>

Did I pass?


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:29:53 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Test
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul 10 13:54:32 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 15:54:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EC282A72DBD84BA3888F1C6643167E38@BOBSNEWPC>

I don't know if this will help you but I had a similar experience a few
years ago and I traced it back to the copper contact rod. I have an after
market wheel and hub so YMMV....... But it's worth taking a look. Here's the
link http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 2:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........

I completed some work on my tr-6 which required moving the rack and pinion
forward approx. 1/2 inch or so.  I put it back and have it all tightened up
however now my horn toots when I turn the steering wheel.  I'm thinking It's
possible when I moved the rack back I also pushed the steering rod up toward
the steering wheel making contact there?  Just wondering.

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 10 14:15:59 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:15:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <EC282A72DBD84BA3888F1C6643167E38@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<EC282A72DBD84BA3888F1C6643167E38@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <23856C8FB4D444BDAA0D642A1ADA4DE0@joepentiumnew>

I had a similar problem in my Mk1 Spit a few years back.   It turned out to
be in the electrics at the steering wheel.  The turn signal siring and the
horn wiring were getting too close together as I turned.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 12:55 PM
To: 'Gary Nafziger'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] horn tooting.........

I don't know if this will help you but I had a similar experience a few
years ago and I traced it back to the copper contact rod. I have an after
market wheel and hub so YMMV....... But it's worth taking a look. Here's the
link http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 2:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........

I completed some work on my tr-6 which required moving the rack and pinion
forward approx. 1/2 inch or so.  I put it back and have it all tightened up
however now my horn toots when I turn the steering wheel.  I'm thinking It's
possible when I moved the rack back I also pushed the steering rod up toward
the steering wheel making contact there?  Just wondering.

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From kvacek at ameritech.net  Fri Jul 10 14:41:22 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 15:41:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
References: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><EC282A72DBD84BA3888F1C6643167E38@BOBSNEWPC>
	<23856C8FB4D444BDAA0D642A1ADA4DE0@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <43CA60E5D64244C396B9B99B3F4291AA@KARL>

Turn signal siring ??  So that's how Lucas manufactured that stuff - kinda 
like makin' bacon !!

Karl



> The turn signal siring and the
> horn wiring were getting too close together as I turned.
>
> Joe

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Jul 10 14:57:11 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (spitlist at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:57:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <43CA60E5D64244C396B9B99B3F4291AA@KARL>
Message-ID: <20090710165711.DC1MV.269227.imail@fed1rmwml39>

See, even a spell checker doesn't help!  my fingers are just too old and fat for this technology!

---- Karl Vacek <kvacek at ameritech.net> wrote: 
> 
> Turn signal siring ??  So that's how Lucas manufactured that stuff - kinda 
> like makin' bacon !!
> 
> Karl
> 
> 
> 
> > The turn signal siring and the
> > horn wiring were getting too close together as I turned.
> >
> > Joe

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 10 15:16:50 2009
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 16:16:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU112-W1954E4489D47232FB92214B9270@phx.gbl>

 My guess is that the inner steering column has moved forward slightly with
your work, and the steering wheel is grounding in some fashion to the horn
contact plate.  I had that with a Mota Lita hub on my TR4 which also had
sloppy steering bushes (still does).  Eventually switched to a different wheel
which helped, but it can be  fixed by loosening the upper column clamp and
moving the wheel slightly towards you as well.



Randy

_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail..
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
l_QuickAdd_062009

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Fri Jul 10 15:26:26 2009
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 16:26:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] temp gauge
Message-ID: <A02E5E97-B509-47FD-98A5-EEBD5AD8B80D@ties2.net>

I had a non-functioning temp gauge in my car when I bought it 30  
years ago. Assuming it was toast, I managed to find another, a lot  
easier then than now. A few years later I decided to clean up all my  
old spare gauges in case I needed to do a swap sometime. When I  
pulled the front off the temp gauge I discovered that the  the needle  
had come disconnected from the bellows. Putting the little loop of  
wire back on the bellows hook fixed the problem. So take the thing  
apart before you spend any money.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul 10 18:12:47 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 20:12:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <43CA60E5D64244C396B9B99B3F4291AA@KARL>
References: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><EC282A72DBD84BA3888F1C6643167E38@BOBSNEWPC><23856C8FB4D444BDAA0D642A1ADA4DE0@joepentiumnew>
	<43CA60E5D64244C396B9B99B3F4291AA@KARL>
Message-ID: <07CAD65D764D4DB695E4A64CD5C2BD2B@BOBSNEWPC>

Joe already owns the rights to "fluif" so he cannot own "siring" also ;-) 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Karl Vacek
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 4:41 PM
To: Joe Curry; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] horn tooting.........

Turn signal siring ??  So that's how Lucas manufactured that stuff - kinda
like makin' bacon !!

Karl



> The turn signal siring and the
> horn wiring were getting too close together as I turned.
>
> Joe
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From tr3a at comcast.net  Fri Jul 10 18:22:40 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 20:22:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <07CAD65D764D4DB695E4A64CD5C2BD2B@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <695090.88166.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><EC282A72DBD84BA3888F1C6643167E38@BOBSNEWPC><23856C8FB4D444BDAA0D642A1ADA4DE0@joepentiumnew>
	<43CA60E5D64244C396B9B99B3F4291AA@KARL>
	<07CAD65D764D4DB695E4A64CD5C2BD2B@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <4F792597-5230-439B-B097-8A3C7BBA6019@comcast.net>

Aww.....Say it ain't so, Joe!

On Jul 10, 2009, at 8:12 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Joe already owns the rights to "fluif" so he cannot own "siring"  
> also ;-)
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Karl Vacek
> Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 4:41 PM
> To: Joe Curry; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] horn tooting.........
>
> Turn signal siring ??  So that's how Lucas manufactured that stuff -  
> kinda
> like makin' bacon !!
>
> Karl
>
>
>
>> The turn signal siring and the
>> horn wiring were getting too close together as I turned.
>>
>> Joe
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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>
>
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From trglory at verizon.net  Fri Jul 10 19:02:41 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 21:02:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <07CAD65D764D4DB695E4A64CD5C2BD2B@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <8518BF63EBE444B1AC6000616BCC2373@newbox>

I don't see why not! If hydraulics has fluif, then electricity deserves
siring. He earned the first through due diligence and I feel he should be
awarded the other also. All in favor?


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 8:13 PM
To: 'Karl Vacek'; 'Joe Curry'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] horn tooting.........

Joe already owns the rights to "fluif" so he cannot own "siring" also ;-) 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Jul 10 20:52:42 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 22:52:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <07CAD65D764D4DB695E4A64CD5C2BD2B@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <43CA60E5D64244C396B9B99B3F4291AA@KARL>
Message-ID: <4A57C63A.23454.6E8A8822@localhost>

On 10 Jul 2009 at 20:12, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Joe already owns the rights to "fluif" so he cannot own
> "siring" also ;-) 

Who owns "guage" and "fule"?


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 10 21:32:35 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2009 20:32:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
In-Reply-To: <4A57C63A.23454.6E8A8822@localhost>
References: <43CA60E5D64244C396B9B99B3F4291AA@KARL>
	<4A57C63A.23454.6E8A8822@localhost>
Message-ID: <934282.32102.qm@web111611.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

erm..that could well be me!
frank fisher




________________________________
From: Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday,
July 10, 2009 7:52:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] horn tooting.........

On 10 Jul
2009 at 20:12, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Joe already owns the rights to "fluif"
so he cannot own
> "siring" also ;-) 

Who owns "guage" and "fule"?


-- 
Jim
Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Jul 11 07:15:13 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 06:15:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Handles
Message-ID: <14980.98048.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     My door handles and  and window cranks on my 1974 TR6 are pretty sad. I
was going to bid on a set on Ebay, but the bids keep increasing. I see TRF
sells kits pretty reasonably. Are the TRF kits the same as original, or are
they visually different?     TIA
     Bill in Tehachapi

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 11 11:20:15 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 10:20:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 temperature sensor
In-Reply-To: <20090710164845274.ELLJ19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090710164845274.ELLJ19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4A58C9CF.4050206@comcast.net>

I grafted a new bulb and capillary tube on to my old gauge per the
internet instructions and it is currently working quite well. I was not
too picky about the style of the capillary tube so I bought the cheapest
mechanical gauge that I could find to use a donor. If you have a high
wattage soldering iron and basic soldering skill, it's not very hard to do.

Mike

Randall wrote:
>  or there are instructions on the Internet for how to try to
> graft a tube and sensor from a replacement gauge onto your original gauge
> while keeping the sensor cold so the ether does not evaporate during the
> operation.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jul 11 12:02:28 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 14:02:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 temperature sensor
In-Reply-To: <4A58C9CF.4050206@comcast.net>
References: <20090710164845274.ELLJ19322@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
	<4A58C9CF.4050206@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <200907111402.29352.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

All,

I found it easier just to install the TR4 setup.

I modified the flat glass gauge with round glass and installed the voltage 
regulator as per Randall's suggestion.

Has worked just fine for around 30 years.

The gauge is in celsius but all I look for is position. Center is ok.

Bob

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Jul 11 12:17:38 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 11:17:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] test
Message-ID: <0ED957E3.E8F4.4107.BE4F.140D6F0ED94D@aol.com>

is this getting to TRlist?.. I seem to be in AOL isolation..
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Jul 11 12:40:43 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 11:40:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] capillary tube
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1247335201.15493.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E7997A32.F941.4929.AE14.2A3B3DABA994@aol.com>

testing . Carl

I grafted a new bulb and capillary tube on to my old gauge per the
internet instructions and it is currently working quite well. I was not
too picky about the style of the capillary tube so I bought the 
cheapest
mechanical gauge that I could find to use a donor. If you have a high
wattage soldering iron and basic soldering skill, it's not very hard 
to do.

Mike

Randall wrote:
> or there are instructions on the Internet for how to try to
> graft a tube and sensor from a replacement gauge onto your original 
> gauge
> while keeping the sensor cold so the ether does not evaporate during 
> the
> operation.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jul 11 12:47:45 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 14:47:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] test
In-Reply-To: <0ED957E3.E8F4.4107.BE4F.140D6F0ED94D@aol.com>
References: <0ED957E3.E8F4.4107.BE4F.140D6F0ED94D@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200907111447.46102.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 11 July 2009 02:17:38 pm carlsereda wrote:
> is this getting to TRlist?.. I seem to be in AOL isolation..
> Carl
> '63 TR4 since '74
Carl,

Your message did get to the list.

Bob

From carlsereda at aol.com  Sat Jul 11 12:52:26 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 11:52:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] test
In-Reply-To: <200907111447.46102.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <039832FA.BBEF.4AD6.BC0A.52E28E5239DE@aol.com>

Thanks Bob - I might be back in the TR loop!
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Your message did get to the list.

Bob

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Jul 11 13:49:51 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 15:49:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Handles
References: <14980.98048.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <79BF43AE96FC434CA14F89AE79125C9F@Alan>

They look the same to me.

Al Salvatore

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 9:15 AM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Handles


>     My door handles and  and window cranks on my 1974 TR6 are pretty sad. 
> I
> was going to bid on a set on Ebay, but the bids keep increasing. I see TRF
> sells kits pretty reasonably. Are the TRF kits the same as original, or 
> are
> they visually different?     TIA
>     Bill in Tehachapi

From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 11 16:04:44 2009
From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 15:04:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 Issues
Message-ID: <BLU147-W2116EA7819B24733342C91DD240@phx.gbl>

Hi All - I'm having some problems with my starter.

For reference, I have a 1954 TR2 Long Door, TS3388L.  It is not the original
engine or transmission.  The engine number is TS73837E, and the transmission
number is TS61713.  I'm assuming that these did not even come out of the same
car.  The transmission does not have a dipstick.  The starter is the
non-hooded type, which I believe is correct for this engine and transmission.
I installed the current rebuilt starter about 5 years ago.  It does not have
many miles, but could have a lot of "starts" on it - as I was working on the
car.

Symptoms:  Historically, the car does not like to start when it is cold (I
believe this is an engine problem, not a starter problem).  The starter seemed
to work fine, although it did start out rather sluggish until it built up
speed.  Now, it does not work at all.  Recently, it would barely turn the
engine over, though it did eventually start.  A couple of days ago, it did not
even turn the engine over.  There was just a loud click coming from the
solenoid.  The headlights did not dim when the start button was pushed.  The
battery has a fresh charge.  I am getting power all the way to the starter
(via a test light).

I removed the starter.  After removing the inspection band, I noticed that the
through bolt (the one that connects to the solenoid) had a couple of metal
strips which appear at one time to have been soldered to a slot in the end.
The solder is gone and these metal strips are loose.  They are also twisted -
I don't know if this is normal or not.

Questions - Can or should these metal strips just be re soldered?  Any special
technique?  What would have caused the solder to disappear?  There are some
high torque starters on sale right now - would I be well advised just to get a
new one?  What are the pros and cons of the high torque starter?  Would a high
torque starter help with the starting in the cold?

I am trying to keep the car as original as possible - at least from an
appearance standpoint.  Although, with a non-correct engine and transmission,
I'm not sure that I am that concerned with the looks of the starter.
Obviously, this is not a trailer queen - I do drive it.

Thanks in advance for all of your help.

David Gunn
Chico, CA



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage_062009

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 11 16:07:37 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 15:07:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 Issues
In-Reply-To: <BLU147-W2116EA7819B24733342C91DD240@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU147-W2116EA7819B24733342C91DD240@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a06240800c67ebd5c609f@[192.168.2.3]>

Get a new Battery ...

>Hi All - I'm having some problems with my starter.
>
>For reference, I have a 1954 TR2 Long Door, TS3388L.  It is not the original
>engine or transmission.  The engine number is TS73837E, and the transmission
>number is TS61713.  I'm assuming that these did not even come out of the same
>car.  The transmission does not have a dipstick.  The starter is the
>non-hooded type, which I believe is correct for this engine and transmission.
>I installed the current rebuilt starter about 5 years ago.  It does not have
>many miles, but could have a lot of "starts" on it - as I was working on the
>car.
>
>Symptoms:  Historically, the car does not like to start when it is cold (I
>believe this is an engine problem, not a starter problem).  The starter seemed
>to work fine, although it did start out rather sluggish until it built up
>speed.  Now, it does not work at all.  Recently, it would barely turn the
>engine over, though it did eventually start.  A couple of days ago, it did not
>even turn the engine over.  There was just a loud click coming from the
>solenoid.  The headlights did not dim when the start button was pushed.  The
>battery has a fresh charge.  I am getting power all the way to the starter
>(via a test light).
>
>I removed the starter.  After removing the inspection band, I noticed that the
>through bolt (the one that connects to the solenoid) had a couple of metal
>strips which appear at one time to have been soldered to a slot in the end.
>The solder is gone and these metal strips are loose.  They are also twisted -
>I don't know if this is normal or not.
>
>Questions - Can or should these metal strips just be re soldered?  Any special
>technique?  What would have caused the solder to disappear?  There are some
>high torque starters on sale right now - would I be well advised just to get a
>new one?  What are the pros and cons of the high torque starter?  Would a high
>torque starter help with the starting in the cold?
>
>I am trying to keep the car as original as possible - at least from an
>appearance standpoint.  Although, with a non-correct engine and transmission,
>I'm not sure that I am that concerned with the looks of the starter.
>Obviously, this is not a trailer queen - I do drive it.
>
>Thanks in advance for all of your help.
>
>David Gunn
>Chico, CA
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Jul 11 16:35:08 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 18:35:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 Issues
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c67ebd5c609f@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <BLU147-W2116EA7819B24733342C91DD240@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A58DB5C.30476.72C51455@localhost>

On 11 Jul 2009 at 15:07, Bill wrote:

> Get a new Battery ...
> 
> >Hi All - I'm having some problems with my starter.

But first...make sure all your connections are good, battery to 
solenoid, solenoid to starter, battery to ground.  The fact that the 
headlights don't dim when you hit the starter may be telling you that 
you just aren't getting enough juice to the starter, or that the 
starter doesn't know what to do with it when it gets it.

Second...if "first" doesn't help, beg, borrow, or steal (okay, don't 
steal) an alternate battery or portable starter battery, or use 
jumper cables to another car, and try starting it.  If that doesn't 
help, you may have tired brushes in the motor.  If so, then replacing 
the battery won't help much.  But replacing the brushes or the entire 
motor will help a lot.

But first, check all the connections.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul 11 18:01:21 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 20:01:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <cb3.59717bc8.378a81d1@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/10/2009 8:54:11 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> Did I pass?
> 
You passed me like I was standing still.  ;-)

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Jul 11 18:21:36 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 20:21:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] horn tooting.........
Message-ID: <c22.629fd11f.378a8690@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/11/2009 1:34:08 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> Who owns "guage" and "fule"?
> 
I thought I saw them on Ebay.

But I could be wrong.

Dave

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 11 18:53:36 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 2009 17:53:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 temperature sensor
In-Reply-To: <667043.75640.qm@web82803.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <667043.75640.qm@web82803.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A593410.2010008@comcast.net>

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

oliver wrote:
> i'd like to see those.  where do i find them?
>
> --- On *Sat, 7/11/09, Michael Lang /<mlang99 at comcast.net>/* wrote:
>
>
>     From: Michael Lang <mlang99 at comcast.net>
>     Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 temperature sensor
>     To:
>     Cc: "'Rene REMOND'" <rene.p.remond at wanadoo.fr>,
>     triumphs at autox.team.net
>     Date: Saturday, July 11, 2009, 12:20 PM
>
>     I grafted a new bulb and capillary tube on to my old gauge per the
>     internet instructions and it is currently working quite well. I
>     was not
>     too picky about the style of the capillary tube so I bought the
>     cheapest
>     mechanical gauge that I could find to use a donor. If you have a high
>     wattage soldering iron and basic soldering skill, it's not very
>     hard to do.
>
>     Mike
>
>     Randall wrote:
>     >  or there are instructions on the Internet for how to try to
>     > graft a tube and sensor from a replacement gauge onto your
>     original gauge
>     > while keeping the sensor cold so the ether does not evaporate
>     during the
>     > operation.

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Jul 12 07:50:20 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 09:50:20 EDT
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <c24.64081739.378b441c@aol.com>

fantastic - I'm getting emails from the List on my AOL again....congrats to 
 those who fixed the trouble.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 7/11/2009 10:04:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

In a  message dated 7/10/2009 8:54:11 PM Central Daylight Time,  
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> Did I pass?
> 
You  passed me like I was standing still.   ;-)

Dave
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You  are subscribed as  chip19474 at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive


**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on 
tour at TourTracker.com. 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Sun Jul 12 08:25:57 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 10:25:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 Issues
In-Reply-To: <BLU147-W2116EA7819B24733342C91DD240@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU147-W2116EA7819B24733342C91DD240@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770907120725o7b96b424rd554789b179bc71b@mail.gmail.com>

Hi David,  I repaired my starter several years ago,  The symptoms I had were
similar to yours - very sluggish rotation of the engine when cold. I tried
the battery from my ranger pickup (small little battery) and it did not make
a difference.  I did the easy next step and bought a brand new big big
battery (filled the entire battery well) and the starter was still sluggish.

Just before I was going to cancel the maiden voyage to my Great Uncles
birhday party (original owner),  I decided to take a apart the starter and
found one of the brush mounts had broken and I the starter was
basically using only one brush to rotate.  I fabricated a temporary fix for
the brush mount and headed out. Funny how those temporary fixes can stay in
place for 15 years.....

Since your starter is realitively recently rebuilt - I wonder if one of the
brushes could be hung up in its holder or not yet fully seated against the
commutator. Dave or Randall will likely have better insights to this being a
possibility.

After getting good connection to both brushes my starter went from wimp to
stallion.

Good luck,

Chris

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 08:41:25 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:41:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 Issues pt1
In-Reply-To: <BLU147-W2116EA7819B24733342C91DD240@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090712144126082.LTTP28563@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

This didn't make it through the list first time; too wordy I guess.  So here
is an abbreviated version for discussion:

> I noticed that the
> through bolt (the one that connects to the solenoid) had a couple of metal
> strips which appear at one time to have been soldered to a slot in the
end.
> The solder is gone and these metal strips are loose.

IMO you are looking at the problem.  Those metal strips are actually flat
copper wire, the ends of the pole windings, and they are what carry all of
the current into the starter motor.

Normally they only twist as much as required to go into the slot.  However,
it's not uncommon for the bolt to come loose and twist the wires when the
outer nut (that holds the cable from the solenoid) is turned.

> Questions - Can or should these metal strips just be re soldered? 

They can, I've done it with a 140 watt soldering gun.  But I don't hold out
a lot of hope that there isn't something else wrong.  The same heat that
vaporized the solder will likely have damaged the winding insulation as
well; copper is a remarkably good conductor of heat and the insulation
between the windings is just lacquer.  And shorted windings are very
difficult to detect without special equipment (a growler).

>   What would have caused the solder to disappear?

Overheating, due to either too much current (ie some other fault in the
motor causing it to draw more current than usual, like shorted windings);
too much continuous operation (the motor should only be operated for 10-15
seconds without a chance to rest and cool); or from a poor connection caused
by the bolt twisting.

>   There are some high torque starters on sale right now - would I be well 
> advised just to get a new one?

That's what I did after a long fight with original starters, and I have
never regretted it.  In fact I plan to move that starter to my project TR3
in a few days.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 08:48:12 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:48:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR 2/3 Issues pt2
In-Reply-To: <BLU147-W2116EA7819B24733342C91DD240@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090712144813804.ZOLA21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

>   What are the pros and cons of the high torque starter?

The only "cons" I know of are non-originality, and that it doesn't sound
like a TRactor motor cranking anymore.  With the rising note of the gear
whine, it sounds more like a jet engine spooling up!

I opted to keep the original solenoid on the firewall functional, but did
not route the new starter current through it.  Instead, the old solenoid
only supplies current to the new solenoid (which also keeps the pushbutton
on the dash from having to handle the higher current of the new solenoid).

> Would a high torque starter help with the starting in the cold?

Honestly, I never had any trouble with the original starter in the cold, as
long as I had a big, beefy battery well charged (100 AH Group 27 plus a 60
amp Ford alternator; car would start even when more modern cars wouldn't).
I would guess that your old starter has been sick for a long time (it's a
4-pole motor, so if there is one broken connection or bad brush, it will
still 'kind of' work on the other pair of poles).

But the gear-drive starter will do a lot better with a marginal battery,
cold or hot.  Draws less current too, which should lead to longer battery
life (for a daily driver).

Make sure which flywheel you have (you should be able to see the bolts for
the ring gear through the starter hole) and be sure to get the matching
starter.  Only the number of gear teeth is different between the 'early' and
'late' gear-drive starter.

Randall

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Jul 12 09:02:58 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:02:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] Update on John Macartney's Trip
Message-ID: <cb9.51119271.378b5522@aol.com>

I was but a small part of John Macartney's latest caravan yesterday  but it 
was nevertheless humbling and a privilege to be able to escort John  & 
Uncle Jack right behind me plus 6 more of my fellow Delaware Valley  Triumph 
Club members for the final 20 mile segment of his total Saturday  sector to 
Dave & Charlene Hutchison's house in Quakertown, PA.  We  had a few hilly 
stretches enroute as I wanted John to get as much exposure  to Pennsylvania 
rolling greenlands rather than highways and crowds.   Uncle Jack stayed with me 
the whole time.
 
All I can say to you guys who haven't yet met John is that this is one  
heck of a courageous and admirable man and he is on a mission:)  He is  
profoundly appreciative to everyone who has helped him in this charity run to  
raise awareness and funds for PTSD.
 
I truly hope that most of you can plan to hook up with John somewhere along 
 his route even if only to say hello.  And, if you really want to tap his  
experiences and make him feel at home, ask him to share some stories about  
Standard Triumph and BL's labor problems, why BL didn't import PI TR6's to 
the  USA (you might be surprised at the answer to this one), etc.
 
Oh...last but certainly not least, Kudos to ISOA on Uncle Jack's  
restoration....what a great effort in so short a time!
 
Now, with any luck, you'll see this message since I'm sending it from my  
AOL account.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on 
tour at TourTracker.com. 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Jul 12 09:13:34 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 08:13:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
Message-ID: <710156.33006.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am stripping my TR6 down for painting. I want to change remove the
rubber seal between the windshield frame and the scuttle. I loosened the two
nuts that appear to hold the windshield frame on. They are in the outer wall
of the footwell below the windshield frame corners and leading forward at
about a 30 degree angle. I tried rocking the frame back and forth while
pulling up and back. This thing won't budge. Is there some secret technique
for getting the windshield frame off?     TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi     -getting ready for Triumphest SLO 2009!

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Jul 12 12:38:12 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:38:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Handles
References: <mailman.14903.1247410105.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000601ca031f$e9b01120$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

 I ordered a window set from TRF about a year ago.
They do look the same, they work fine. Knob is on handle permanent, not with
a C-clip.
Regards,
Bob



>
> >My door handles and  and window cranks on my 1974 TR6 are pretty sad.
> > I > > was going to bid on a set on Ebay, but the bids keep increasing. I
see TRF
> > sells kits pretty reasonably. Are the TRF kits the same as original, or
> > are > > they visually different?     TIA
> >     Bill in Tehachapi






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
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From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 12 09:57:17 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:57:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
In-Reply-To: <710156.33006.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <710156.33006.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0KMO00ALHEZOAQR5@vms173001.mailsrvcs.net>

At 11:13 AM 7/12/2009, William Brewer wrote:
>      I am stripping my TR6 down for painting. I want to change remove the
>rubber seal between the windshield frame and the scuttle. I loosened the two
>nuts that appear to hold the windshield frame on. They are in the outer wall
>of the footwell below the windshield frame corners and leading forward at
>about a 30 degree angle. I tried rocking the frame back and forth while
>pulling up and back. This thing won't budge. Is there some secret technique
>for getting the windshield frame off?     TIA,

There are also 4 bolts (2 each side) adjacent to the 2 nuts you 
removed.  Those bolts are pinch bolts which clamp the windshield 
posts (the ends of which are threaded for the nuts you removed).  It 
may take a liberal application of your favorite juice to break the 
rust loose, too.  Whatever you do, don't use a pry bar under the 
windshield frame.  If the posts won't wiggle free, you might try 
threading the nuts back on, then tapping the post ends with a BFH.

jim

>      Bill in Tehachapi     -getting ready for Triumphest SLO 2009!
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as jhassall at blacksburg.net
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to g 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jul 12 10:51:51 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 11:51:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
Message-ID: <006c01ca0311$573f3d10$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local>

hi, all.

maybe someday my tr3 will be finished.  my daughter is looking forward to
driving it, but she's a diminutive 5'1".  my fault - the short people are on
my side of the family!

does/has anyone ever put together longer seat tracks for the vertically
challenged?

thanks!

anyone want to do it?  i also have a friend with a tr2 who's wife is about the
same size, so there might be a small (haha) market for this product.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jul 12 11:14:49 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 13:14:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
In-Reply-To: <710156.33006.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <710156.33006.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4EA861D9B352489580A4873069C293D6@BOBSNEWPC>

Don't forget the three bolts/clamps on top of the dash at the bottom of the
windshield. As you noted the corner frame bolts that you've already loosened
are at an angel so you have to pull the windshield up at that same angel.
However, those corners can get rusted in place to the point where some guys
have had to resort to a dremel cutting wheel to get it off.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 11:14 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal

     I am stripping my TR6 down for painting. I want to change remove the
rubber seal between the windshield frame and the scuttle. I loosened the two
nuts that appear to hold the windshield frame on. They are in the outer wall
of the footwell below the windshield frame corners and leading forward at
about a 30 degree angle. I tried rocking the frame back and forth while
pulling up and back. This thing won't budge. Is there some secret technique
for getting the windshield frame off?     TIA,

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun Jul 12 12:19:25 2009
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 14:19:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 top question
References: <710156.33006.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<4EA861D9B352489580A4873069C293D6@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501E2B0EE@mail.ex-centris.net>

I'm not planning it, so stop loading your slingshots oh Triumph purists, but a
question:

Did noone ever design, sell, retrofit etc an electrically raising
top/apparatus for the TR6? It certainly seems to have the space behind the
seats.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun Jul 12 12:24:10 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 14:24:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
References: <710156.33006.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9710AF529F4446D1AEC32ABADBB94210@Alan>

I just took mine off, in preperation to paint.

Theres the 3 bolts on top of the dash pad.
The two nuts underneath.
I needed to spray the pins underneath that the two nuts came off of with a 
very liberal dose of liquid wrench.
Then two of us were able to rock it out.
It wasn't budging before the liquid wrench.

Didn't have to loosen anything else.
Al Salvatore

http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 11:13 AM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal


>     I am stripping my TR6 down for painting. I want to change remove the
> rubber seal between the windshield frame and the scuttle. I loosened the 
> two
> nuts that appear to hold the windshield frame on. They are in the outer 
> wall
> of the footwell below the windshield frame corners and leading forward at
> about a 30 degree angle. I tried rocking the frame back and forth while
> pulling up and back. This thing won't budge. Is there some secret 
> technique
> for getting the windshield frame off?     TIA,
>     Bill in Tehachapi     -getting ready for Triumphest SLO 2009!
> _______________________________________________

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Jul 12 12:33:35 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 14:33:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] seat tracks
Message-ID: <c4d.466fdf81.378b867f@aol.com>

I've relocated the tracks back a bit for taller drivers on TR6's but not  
forward.  I would bet the same principle applies for the TR3's - check  under 
the car to make sure there's no frame member running under the floor  where 
you would want to create new holes for the tracks if you moved the tracks  
forward.  If you're okay, take the cushion off, remove the seat and then  
the tracks and slide the tracks forward say one mounting hole so you can keep  
the remaining mounting holes in the tracks lined up with the nuts.  At this 
 point you could secure the track with the remaining holes, put the seat in 
and  see how it fits.  If it works, drill new holes to secure the tracks.
 
Another way to get a good guess at how much you need to move the  track is 
to have your daughter sit in the seat and wiggle forward until she can  
depress the pedals.  Measure how far her back is from the rear  cushion.  Since 
the rear cushion is attached to the seat it should move the  same distance 
the seat moves between clicks on the track.
 
Good luck...it'll work out.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U 
 
 
In a message dated 7/12/2009 1:54:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

does/has  anyone ever put together longer seat tracks for the  vertically
challenged?


**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on 
tour at TourTracker.com. 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)

From joe.simcoe at gmail.com  Sun Jul 12 12:47:34 2009
From: joe.simcoe at gmail.com (Joe Simcoe)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 13:47:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Triumph Magazines / Books / Memorabilia FOR SALE
Message-ID: <870ec5210907121147q3c8c0855w2f6beff1ef2207e8@mail.gmail.com>

I am cleaning out in preparation for moving.  10-15 years ago I was quite
interested in British Cars - Triumphs in particular.
I have currently have multiple lots of old magazines for sale on Ebay.
 Check back though as I have many books that I will be listing, and later on
parts, cars etc.


Sort Ebay for in advanced search for items for sale by seller    gbsimcoe

This is my wife's account, please address questions about items for sale
directly to her through ebay.

If you want to address general questions to me, please do so directly to
this account, or through the boards.

Thanks,

Joe Simcoe

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Sun Jul 12 15:45:51 2009
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 17:45:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] fuel pump question
Message-ID: <web-49220072@mail.presby.edu>

I was surprised when my attempt to pull the rubber fuel 
line from the fuel pump on my Spit actually pulled out the 
(brass?) fitting instead.  I tapped it back in with a 
block of wood, and it seemed to be tight, but when I 
tested it with the engine running it pulled out on its 
own.  Not good!  The pump itself is fine, so I'd like to 
make a fix if possible.  Is there some product that will 
let me secure the line in its slot, or does this have to 
be a pressure fitting?

Thanks,
Tim
Clinton, SC
1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Jul 12 16:00:48 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 15:00:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard top seals
Message-ID: <4A5A5D10.3040106@gmail.com>

I'm FINALLY getting around to installing a hard top on my TR3A and have 
some questions about the seals.

1. Bottom waist seal:  This is a slide on seal that has the wide round 
section to one side.  Does the wide round part go to the inside or the 
outside?

2. Front top to windscreen seal: Does the rubber seal on the top of the 
windscreen remain?  There doesn't seem to be space for both it and the 
seal that goes to the top front of the hard top.

BTW, I have a TR3 overdrive gearbox minus the overdrive listed on the 
Monterey Craigs list for $50.  I'm getting ready to move again and am 
trying to cut down on the volume to be moved.  My spare gearbox isn't 
planning on making the move.  I'd prefer not to ship it.

TeriAnn
tjwakeman at gmail.com

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jul 12 16:12:48 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 16:12:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] fuel pump question
In-Reply-To: <web-49220072@mail.presby.edu>
References: <web-49220072@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <C2338284410C40459ED5A4512EC0BC6C@bboffice>

Try a thin coating of JB Weld then push it back in and give it a day to
cure.
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 3:46 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] fuel pump question

I was surprised when my attempt to pull the rubber fuel line from the fuel
pump on my Spit actually pulled out the
(brass?) fitting instead.  I tapped it back in with a block of wood, and it
seemed to be tight, but when I tested it with the engine running it pulled
out on its own.  Not good!  The pump itself is fine, so I'd like to make a
fix if possible.  Is there some product that will let me secure the line in
its slot, or does this have to be a pressure fitting?

Thanks,
Tim
Clinton, SC
1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 12 16:21:35 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 15:21:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard top seals
In-Reply-To: <4A5A5D10.3040106@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090712222135154.GDYB2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> 1. Bottom waist seal:  This is a slide on seal that has the wide round
> section to one side.  Does the wide round part go to the inside or the
> outside?

Wide round part goes to the inside, rests against the car body.

> 2. Front top to windscreen seal: Does the rubber seal on the top of the
> windscreen remain?

Yes, although it gets cut to fit around the HT brackets.

>   There doesn't seem to be space for both it and the
> seal that goes to the top front of the hard top.

The HT seal should have a channel shape to it, and fits over the seal on the
windscreen frame; with the sides of the 'channel' to the front & rear of the
rounded seal on the windscreen.  Here's a diagram from the factory workshop
manual, that kind of shows how they fit together.

Randall

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of untitled.jpg]

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Jul 12 17:00:40 2009
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 19:00:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 top question
In-Reply-To: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501E2B0EE@mail.ex-centris.net>
References: <710156.33006.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><4EA861D9B352489580A4873069C293D6@BOBSNEWPC>
	<C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501E2B0EE@mail.ex-centris.net>
Message-ID: <8CBD15BB5ED4E14-1E00-4B58@FWM-D19.sysops.aol.com>

 I for one would love to do it....maybe some day when I have more time.....


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hooper <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 12, 2009 2:19 pm
Subject: [TR] TR6 top question










I'm not planning it, so stop loading your slingshots oh Triumph purists, but a
question:

Did noone ever design, sell, retrofit etc an electrically raising
top/apparatus for the TR6? It certainly seems to have the space behind the
seats.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sun Jul 12 19:21:51 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:21:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mounting a Body Tub to a TR4A Frame
Message-ID: <2A2D2B3DD3D04525B1BAF2123E012A7B@userb38463fba5>

List,

I am replacing the old rusty body tub with a rebuilt tub from a great donor
car. The new tub required the left floor to be replaced and the from and rear
valences replaced. The welding was done with the body tub on one of the TR6
shipping mandrels that were furnished with new bodies sold by TRF and others.
These are the same mandrels that were used to build the new TR 6 bodies.

The doors from the newly rebuilt tub were not removed so I have a good
reference to start with as far as door gaps etc are concerned.

I'd like to know from someone who's done this the correct procedure for
placing shims and mounting pads to secure the tub to the frame so as to
maintain panel alignment etc.
Do I mount the fenders, hood and trunk lid before securing the body leaving it
in it's static position and then shim the gaps? Do I start with the floor
mounts and work to the front and back?

I don't have any shims placed now, and the tub is just sitting on the frame.

I'd appreciate some guidance fro someone who's done this successfully.

Thanks,
JVV

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Jul 12 19:35:35 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:35:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Mounting a Body Tub to a TR4A Frame
In-Reply-To: <2A2D2B3DD3D04525B1BAF2123E012A7B@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPOEEAFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Jerry,
I am in the same position. There is a guy I met from my triumph website that
I will email. He and his wife were just here in town for a British car show.
He has a TR4a IRS that he rebuilt from the ground up. I will email him and
get back to you.
Dave Connitt

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 9:22 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Mounting a Body Tub to a TR4A Frame


List,

I am replacing the old rusty body tub with a rebuilt tub from a great donor
car. The new tub required the left floor to be replaced and the from and
rear
valences replaced. The welding was done with the body tub on one of the TR6
shipping mandrels that were furnished with new bodies sold by TRF and
others.
These are the same mandrels that were used to build the new TR 6 bodies.

The doors from the newly rebuilt tub were not removed so I have a good
reference to start with as far as door gaps etc are concerned.

I'd like to know from someone who's done this the correct procedure for
placing shims and mounting pads to secure the tub to the frame so as to
maintain panel alignment etc.
Do I mount the fenders, hood and trunk lid before securing the body leaving
it
in it's static position and then shim the gaps? Do I start with the floor
mounts and work to the front and back?

I don't have any shims placed now, and the tub is just sitting on the frame.

I'd appreciate some guidance fro someone who's done this successfully.

Thanks,
JVV
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as dconnitt at fuse.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From lherault at bu.edu  Sun Jul 12 19:54:58 2009
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:54:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-3 Pedals
Message-ID: <5AAB31BE31A54369894E7AAC7A7C66D4@ronlherault>

I had a '58 TR 3 and did not alter the pedals for my 5' 1/4" height.  I did,
however raise the seat on two by fours to get a slightly higher seating
position.  I don't know if I may have altered the position of the seat rails
at that time.  I think I just through-bolted them in the same position.  I
bought my first TR-6 brand new at the Triumph dealer.  He had a mechanic
heat up the clutch and brake pedals and bend them forward a bit.  I still
used a 1" or so foam cushion to raise myself up a bit.  I had the same thing
done to my present TR-6.

Ron L

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sun Jul 12 20:49:48 2009
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 22:49:48 EDT
Subject: [TR] Back on Line
Message-ID: <d4f.567bffa8.378bfacc@aol.com>

I can't express my pleasure of being back on the lists after the  exile.  
Thank you to all that made it happen!!!
 
Sam Clark   
Green Country Triumphs
Member at Large
 
p.s.  Looking forward to Johnmac's visit on Aug.  8-9
**************Looking for love this summer? Find it now on AOL Personals. 
(http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000003)

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 12 21:11:39 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:11:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 65 per hour wobble
Message-ID: <554016.20482.qm@web59416.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I had the same deal with my tr-6 only it did that around 55mph.  Had the front
end lined up and installed a new set of tires and it continued doing the same
thing.  I kept driving it and eventually  when I rotated the tires found my
right rear tire worn much more than any of the others.  Then really checked
out rear alignment and found that wheel toed in too far.  so you might wanna
have the rear aligned and see if that helps.

gary n.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 12 21:33:09 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:33:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] mounting body tub
Message-ID: <991852.16634.qm@web59406.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I've been re-building a tr-3 from ground up. It's a little differant because
I've had my car split in two leaving me front and rear clips.  I then had to
put the tub together, bolting the inner sill to the frame then welding the
rest together ( front clip and rear clip to inner sills and then floors to
inner sill and both clips)  Throughout this process I did not have fenders
hung or trunk or hood lids on (just inner tub).  Before I did the before
mentioned welding I hung the doors and shimmed so that door gaps were
perfect.  I now have the tub all welded together and braced and notes made as
to how many pads/shims I need at each mounting point to frame.  Next job is to
hang doors, fenders, lids ect.

As i noted this might be a little differant
from what your doing.  But what I hear most is that the car should be
built/shimmed around the doors.  Meaning shimming so door gaps are
acceptable is most important then moving on to make other panels fit.

Hope
this helps

gary n

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Sun Jul 12 21:57:59 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 20:57:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Mounting a Body Tub to a TR4A Frame
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15025.1247456001.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15025.1247456001.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7E139A9CB07E4412BC7B2242695ECFAF@Gateway1>

Jerry,
I removed the body from the frame of my 4A and noted the shims/pads that
were in place. Turns out (on my at least) it was the same all around - a
pad/metal shim/pad set up. I didn't have to do any major metal replacement
on mine and when I re-mated the tub to the frame I just matched the original
setup with new pads and shims. I did have to adjust a bit to get the hood to
close properly, but the fenders and doors didn't seem to be affected by
this. I did start on the major floor mounts and alternated one set to the
front - one set to the back. Once I had gooped enough silicone sealer in the
bolts and holes, I snugged everything down like tightening the heads bolts
on an engine - a little bit in rotation.

For what it's worth, I used TRF's body mounting kit and that made the
re-mating a breeze. I suggest using new pads and shims and not over thinking
it too much - rest assured the factory didn't! :-)

Almost guaranteed you'll need to shim the doors anyway.

Brian
http://www.induninw.com/tr4a.html


------------------------------

Message: 10
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:21:51 -0400
From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
Subject: [TR] Mounting a Body Tub to a TR4A Frame
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2A2D2B3DD3D04525B1BAF2123E012A7B at userb38463fba5>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

List,

I am replacing the old rusty body tub with a rebuilt tub from a great donor
car. The new tub required the left floor to be replaced and the from and
rear
valences replaced. The welding was done with the body tub on one of the TR6
shipping mandrels that were furnished with new bodies sold by TRF and
others.
These are the same mandrels that were used to build the new TR 6 bodies.

The doors from the newly rebuilt tub were not removed so I have a good
reference to start with as far as door gaps etc are concerned.

I'd like to know from someone who's done this the correct procedure for
placing shims and mounting pads to secure the tub to the frame so as to
maintain panel alignment etc.
Do I mount the fenders, hood and trunk lid before securing the body leaving
it
in it's static position and then shim the gaps? Do I start with the floor
mounts and work to the front and back?

I don't have any shims placed now, and the tub is just sitting on the frame.

I'd appreciate some guidance fro someone who's done this successfully.

Thanks,
JVV

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 05:56:46 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 07:56:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
Message-ID: <d12.240d0595.378c7afe@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/12/2009 12:15:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: 
> Don't forget the three bolts/clamps on top of the dash at the bottom of 
> the
> windshield. As you noted the corner frame bolts that you've already 
> loosened
> are at an angel so you have to pull the windshield up at that same angel.
> However, those corners can get rusted in place to the point where some 
> guys
> have had to resort to a dremel cutting wheel to get it off.
> 

Bob, Bill, FWIW, the two windshields I pulled did not have any rust (and 
here in St. Louis that is remarkable) but I did have problems each time due to 
the fact that the windshields were installed whilst the paint was still 
soft.  I had to take the clamp loose and rotate it back and forth to break the 
paint bond.  Unfortunately, this involved removing the fresh air duct at the 
offending side to gain access.

One was a TR4 and the other was a TR6.  I reassembled both using grease (or 
antisieze) so the next guy won't have the problem.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 06:19:25 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:19:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
Message-ID: <d5a.4b10f7ec.378c804d@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/12/2009 6:43:58 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jhassall at blacksburg.net writes: 
> There are also 4 bolts (2 each side) adjacent to the 2 nuts you 
> removed.  Those bolts are pinch bolts which clamp the windshield 
> posts (the ends of which are threaded for the nuts you removed).  It 
> may take a liberal application of your favorite juice to break the 
> rust loose, too.  Whatever you do, don't use a pry bar under the 
> windshield frame.  If the posts won't wiggle free, you might try 
> threading the nuts back on, then tapping the post ends with a BFH.
> 

Jim, I'll bet you have a TR4.  For the record, TR4's have two clamp bolts 
on each side, the TR6 has three.

More trivia to follow.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 06:41:23 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:41:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 top question
Message-ID: <ca0.569383d0.378c8573@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/12/2009 3:24:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> Did no one ever design, sell, retrofit etc an electrically raising
> top/apparatus for the TR6? It certainly seems to have the space behind the
> seats.
> 

I dunno, Mark.  It might be easier to buy one of those Honda Robots and 
program it to raise and lower your top.  Then you could say you have an 
electric top.  ;-)

Dave

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Jul 13 08:35:41 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:35:41 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR4A diiff
Message-ID: <0D519BA323B745B78129D5C6EDEBB275@Study>

I  removed my original differential unit from  my car a year or two ago 
because of oil leaks. I now wish to replace all 3 oil seals. If I stand it 
up on the propshaft end oil comes from there and if I rest it on the half 
shaft ends oil seeps from whichever one is underneath. I take it that means 
the oil seals must be replaced?
I would be grateful to receive any advice on a good way to immobilise the 3 
shafts so that I can undo the 3 nuts torqued to 100 ft lbs on the end of 
each shaft.
Of course any tips on oil seal replacement would be welcome too!

Trusting the list will come through as it always does.

David Brister
1967 TR4A. 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 23088 of my spam emails to date.
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 13 09:40:06 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 08:40:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A diiff
In-Reply-To: <0D519BA323B745B78129D5C6EDEBB275@Study>
Message-ID: <20090713154006703.ZYQA21440@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> I would be grateful to receive any advice on a good way to immobilise the
> 3 shafts so that I can undo the 3 nuts torqued to 100 ft lbs on the end of
> each shaft.

What I did was buy a bar of flat steel at my local hardware store, about
3/16" by 1" by 36" (5mm by 25mm by 1m), and drill it for bolts to fit
through the holes on the flange.  In retrospect, I probably should have
gotten it slightly thicker, maybe 1/4", as mine wanted to bend sideways
while using it as a lever.  If you place the bolt holes carefully enough and
use the pair of holes that are closer together, there should be room for the
socket in the center.  But I didn't get mine positioned just right, and so
had to grind away a bit of the bar to clear the socket.
http://tinyurl.com/mtme8z

The pinion seal is tough to get out with the pinion in the way, but it can
be done.  Try not to gouge the casting, though.  If you do, it can be filled
with JB Weld or similar, then filed and sanded back to shape.

I used a 20 ton press to remove the side flanges from the stub axle, but
they came off reasonably easy, so a heavy puller might do.

Randall

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Jul 13 10:40:20 2009
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:40:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 top question
In-Reply-To: <ca0.569383d0.378c8573@cs.com>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501D6DCDB@mail.ex-centris.net>

Hmmm... You might have the start of an idea there Dave. However, I would
program the robot to run along beside the car holding an umbrella over
it. Large stamping feet, little pink umbrella moving around rapidly to
block each raindrop.

Cheers,

Mark



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: July 13, 2009 8:41 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 top question

In a message dated 7/12/2009 3:24:44 PM Central Daylight Time,
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes:
> Did no one ever design, sell, retrofit etc an electrically raising
> top/apparatus for the TR6? It certainly seems to have the space behind
the
> seats.
>

I dunno, Mark.  It might be easier to buy one of those Honda Robots and
program it to raise and lower your top.  Then you could say you have an
electric top.  ;-)

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 10:53:45 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:53:45 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 top question
Message-ID: <ce3.5175213c.378cc099@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/13/2009 11:32:57 AM Central Daylight Time, 
mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: 
> Hmmm... You might have the start of an idea there Dave. However, I would
> program the robot to run along beside the car holding an umbrella over
> it. Large stamping feet, little pink umbrella moving around rapidly to
> block each raindrop.
> 
And when it is not raining you could program it to run out into the 
intersections before you and make sure there are no oncoming cars.  I see a future 
here.

Dave

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 13 11:13:56 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:13:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
In-Reply-To: <d12.240d0595.378c7afe@cs.com>
References: <d12.240d0595.378c7afe@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W46B05E8CE0C50BB32858F0E1220@phx.gbl>

Dave Massey said:
I reassembled both using grease (or antisieze) so the next guy won't have the
problem.What is the opposite of DPO?
(G)ood (P)revious (O)wner?
(N)ice (P)revious (O)wner?
(S)mart (P)revious (O)wner?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA


'63 TR3B TCF587L


That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!


See it moves!

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 12:00:24 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:00:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
Message-ID: <d4b.49f5b196.378cd038@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/13/2009 12:18:25 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com writes: 
> Dave Massey said:
> I reassembled both using grease (or antisieze) so the next guy won't have 
> the
> problem.What is the opposite of DPO?
> (G)ood (P)revious (O)wner?
> (N)ice (P)revious (O)wner?
> (S)mart (P)revious (O)wner?
> 
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
> 
> 
How about (A)nal-retentive (P)revious (O)wner?

From postmaster at boxbe.com  Mon Jul 13 12:06:46 2009
From: postmaster at boxbe.com (postmaster at boxbe.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:06:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 320 (Action Required)
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 13 12:12:42 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:12:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A diiff
In-Reply-To: <0D519BA323B745B78129D5C6EDEBB275@Study>
References: <0D519BA323B745B78129D5C6EDEBB275@Study>
Message-ID: <74E4AF8630834B149BEEACD73E08615A@jdnet.deere.com>

> I take it that means
> the oil seals must be replaced?

Something else to watch for, David, is the condition of the surfaces that
rotate against the seals.  If there is a groove or other damage, even new
seals may not hold oil for long.  If the damage is slight, you may be able
to polish it out, but otherwise a Speedi-Sleeve or a different flange may be
necessary.
http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/products?contentId=242195


-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 13 12:21:12 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 11:21:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
In-Reply-To: <d4b.49f5b196.378cd038@cs.com>
References: <d4b.49f5b196.378cd038@cs.com>
Message-ID: <9E8359D2A6394AC398943E7AC6207EA4@jdnet.deere.com>

> How about (A)nal-retentive (P)revious (O)wner?

I do hope you're not suggesting that the liberal application of anti-seize
is anal-retentive!  

It's become by far my favorite goop, and disassembling TS39781LO has made it
very clear why it should be.  Even the exhaust system nuts came right off;
while several joints where I didn't bother with AS have proved reluctant.

-- Randall 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Mon Jul 13 12:36:50 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:36:50 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product
Message-ID: <1648083329.1118871.1247510210216.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>

Just to pass onto the list, for those of you whose vehicles leak fluids (which is everyone).

Last month I purchased this great Abzorb Mat 3' X 8 ' at:   http://www.autohaulersupply.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=736

For the past few years, I had one of those pans under the car.  You have to wipe them off, they rust, and just are a general pain.

The 3'X8' under my TR6 fits between the wheels and is long enough to get oil from the front of the engine as well as the occasional drip from the diff. in the rear.

After 2 or 3 years, throw it away an start over.  I am very happy how it has performed to date.  NFI.

Craig H. Nicholls
Vienna, VA
1972 Triumph TR6

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 13 12:51:02 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 14:51:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
Message-ID: <bd9.37772935.378cdc16@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/13/2009 1:22:12 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> I do hope you're not suggesting that the liberal application of 
> anti-seize
> is anal-retentive!  
> 
Not I, but I'm sure there are those who would.

I use antisieze on my exhaust system and have had no problems with 
disassembly.

Dave

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon Jul 13 12:50:58 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:50:58 GMT
Subject: [TR] Automotive machine shops, etc in Cincinnati or Lexington
Message-ID: <200907131251711.SM01676@[166.70.182.42]>

We've recently relocated from Arkansas to the Richmond Kentucky area and are
looking for recommendations for a good reliable automotive machine shop in the
Lexington Ky or Cincinnati Oh area. Cincinnati is definitely farther to drive
but I'm betting there are more choices available there.

Any recommendations for good machine shops, body & paint shops and other
Triumph related services would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Brad
Richmond, KY
1961 TR4 (and many others)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 13 13:02:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:02:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 320 (Action Required)
In-Reply-To: <28556075.104385.1247508407020.JavaMail.prod@app004.boxbe.com>
References: <28556075.104385.1247508407020.JavaMail.prod@app004.boxbe.com>
Message-ID: <474ACBFCB0C0470F895B67818F1CDC4E@jdnet.deere.com>

>   Future messages will be more likely to be viewed

Well, now, isn't that special!  This idiot computer is going to make email
"more reliable and useful" by blocking messages that someone has signed up
for (and hence presumably wishes to receive).  Ain't technology wonderful!

-- Randall 

From tr3a at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 13:21:07 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:21:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 320 (Action Required)
In-Reply-To: <474ACBFCB0C0470F895B67818F1CDC4E@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <28556075.104385.1247508407020.JavaMail.prod@app004.boxbe.com>
	<474ACBFCB0C0470F895B67818F1CDC4E@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <9D7E7823-6AD6-43CF-BFB5-82DC9A334377@comcast.net>

Interesting. A Google search for <a901949 at aol.com> finds that "Tom"  
has a house for rent in Pasadena. It's a craigslist ad. I don't get it.

Btw, "it's not okay to contact him with services or other commercial  
interests."  :^)

On Jul 13, 2009, at 3:02 PM, Randall wrote:

>>  Future messages will be more likely to be viewed
>
> Well, now, isn't that special!  This idiot computer is going to make  
> email
> "more reliable and useful" by blocking messages that someone has  
> signed up
> for (and hence presumably wishes to receive).  Ain't technology  
> wonderful!
>
> -- Randall 

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 13:29:03 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:29:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product
In-Reply-To: <1648083329.1118871.1247510210216.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <251585466.1121301247513343558.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I just bought two !!

Andrew Uprichard




----- Original Message -----
From: thenicholls at verizon.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 2:36:50 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product

Just to pass onto the list, for those of you whose vehicles leak fluids (which
is everyone).

Last month I purchased this great Abzorb Mat 3' X 8 ' at: B 
http://www.autohaulersupply.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=736

For the past few years, I had one of those pans under the car. B You have to
wipe them off, they rust, and just are a general pain.

The 3'X8' under my TR6 fits between the wheels and is long enough to get oil
from the front of the engine as well as the occasional drip from the diff. in
the rear.

After 2 or 3 years, throw it away an start over. B I am very happy how it has
performed to date. B NFI.

Craig H. Nicholls
Vienna, VA
1972 Triumph TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From agraham at execulink.com  Mon Jul 13 13:37:18 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 15:37:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Suspension rebuild questions
Message-ID: <200907131937.n6DJbCrC023167@smtp2.execulink.net>

Hello list:
Into a front end rebuild on my TR2 and have a couple of questions.
Do the outer control arm bushings that pivot on the trunions require 
reaming to fit?? I seem to recall that the older style bushings 
required reaming to fit, but not sure if the newer "split" type 
bushings require this step.
Does anyone have a source for some information on a front end 
re-build? On my 2 I am replacing the inner lower control arm rubber 
bushes with the 3A nylon and steel bushings. Faced with this 
bewildering array of steel, nylon and rubber bits for the lower 
control arms. The manual is the usual helpful "re-assembly is the 
reverse of disassembly".  Any help out there?
What about an assembly lube for the nylon and urethane bushes - any 
recommendations?
Thanks for any help with these questions.

Angelo Graham
'55 TR2

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 13 13:40:34 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 12:40:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 320 (Action Required)
In-Reply-To: <9D7E7823-6AD6-43CF-BFB5-82DC9A334377@comcast.net>
References: <28556075.104385.1247508407020.JavaMail.prod@app004.boxbe.com><474ACBFCB0C0470F895B67818F1CDC4E@jdnet.deere.com>
	<9D7E7823-6AD6-43CF-BFB5-82DC9A334377@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <07AC2D98244240C48CD60D1B7BD2FFD5@jdnet.deere.com>

> Interesting. A Google search for <a901949 at aol.com> finds that "Tom"
> has a house for rent in Pasadena. It's a craigslist ad. I don't get it.

A quick search through my personal list archive turns up the name "Tom
Leonard", who posted a "First car story" back in 2003.  Obviously he's still
a list member, but I don't recall seeing anything from him since then.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 13 14:38:09 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 13:38:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Suspension rebuild questions
In-Reply-To: <200907131937.n6DJbCrC023167@smtp2.execulink.net>
References: <200907131937.n6DJbCrC023167@smtp2.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <CEA3FA0CF7594A45B0C35CBA9D525CA1@jdnet.deere.com>

> Do the outer control arm bushings that pivot on the trunions require
> reaming to fit?? I seem to recall that the older style bushings
> required reaming to fit, but not sure if the newer "split" type
> bushings require this step.

Mine were the 'split' variety and did require reaming.  I used a fixed
"chucking" reamer that was under $20 from Enco.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=331-1140
(but double-check that 5/8" is the correct size as I may have misremembered
that part).  Lacking a chuck that big, I clamped the reamer in my bench vise
and turned the arm around it to ream the bushing.

> Faced with this
> bewildering array of steel, nylon and rubber bits for the lower
> control arms. The manual is the usual helpful "re-assembly is the
> reverse of disassembly".  Any help out there?

It's not nearly as hard as it might look at first.  There are some more
detailed instructions in the TR3 supplement to the workshop manual
(attached).  Basically smear the pins with grease (to hold down on rust)
then slide the sleeves on.  Stretch a rubber ring onto a nylon washer, smear
the washer with grease and slide one onto each sleeve.  Smear the outside of
the sleeve with grease.  Now push the nylon bushings into the arms (should
be just finger-tight, but use the vise if necessary), grease and install the
arms (don't forget they need to go over the trunnion pins at the same time).
Stretch rubber rings onto the two remaining nylon washers, smear them with
grease and install outside the arms.  Now add the plates just like with the
rubber bushings.

BTW, if the rubber rings break when you stretch them into place, they were
junk and should be returned.  There have been some very low quality versions
on the market, I've had some that split within months of installation and a
few that broke during installation.  But the ones I got from TRF some 10
years ago were in good enough condition that I was able to reuse them a few
months ago when moving parts from my wrecked TR3A to my project TR3.

-- Randall 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of TR3 front suspension nylon bearings.pdf]

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Mon Jul 13 16:39:33 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 18:39:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product
In-Reply-To: <251585466.1121301247513343558.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1648083329.1118871.1247510210216.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>
	<251585466.1121301247513343558.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770907131539w523ea6c8y8103190b5628333c@mail.gmail.com>

The way my car leaks - I wonder how long it will last..... sure beats the
cardboard from my sears shop vac. It lasted about 3 weeks.

For the neglected car parked on the top of my lift - has not been driven in
20 years but still manages to leak a few drops of oil/lube/fluif every week.
I imagine this pad will work just great!!!

I'm gonna give it a shot.

Chris

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Jul 13 17:05:50 2009
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:05:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal
In-Reply-To: <9E8359D2A6394AC398943E7AC6207EA4@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501D6DD0A@mail.ex-centris.net>

I'm going to file that under the heading of "too much information". What
a visual...

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: July 13, 2009 2:21 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Windshield Frame Removal

> How about (A)nal-retentive (P)revious (O)wner?

I do hope you're not suggesting that the liberal application of
anti-seize
is anal-retentive!

It's become by far my favorite goop, and disassembling TS39781LO has
made it
very clear why it should be.  Even the exhaust system nuts came right
off;
while several joints where I didn't bother with AS have proved
reluctant.

-- Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 13 21:48:27 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 03:48:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770907131539w523ea6c8y8103190b5628333c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1943237417.1191511247543307301.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I'm going to put it in my trailer.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: "Chris Simo" <ccsimonsen at gmail.com>
> To: auprichard at comcast.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 5:39:33 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Recommendation on a great product
>
> The way my car leaks - I wonder how long it will last..... sure beats
> the
> cardboard from my sears shop vac. It lasted about 3 weeks.
> 
> For the neglected car parked on the top of my lift - has not been
> driven in
> 20 years but still manages to leak a few drops of oil/lube/fluif every
> week.
> I imagine this pad will work just great!!!
> 
> I'm gonna give it a shot.
> 
> Chris

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Jul 14 05:43:57 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 07:43:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 320 (Action Required)
Message-ID: <ceb.5e5e8841.378dc97d@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/13/2009 2:48:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> A quick search through my personal list archive turns up the name "Tom
> Leonard", who posted a "First car story" back in 2003.  Obviously he's 
> still
> a list member, but I don't recall seeing anything from him since then.
> 

Sounds like "Tom's" account got hijacked.

Dave

From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Tue Jul 14 10:06:31 2009
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 12:06:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Suspension rebuild questions
In-Reply-To: <200907131937.n6DJbCrC023167@smtp2.execulink.net>
References: <200907131937.n6DJbCrC023167@smtp2.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <286CC38A15F547159F6CE12570E99E89@TomandWendyPC>

> Do the outer control arm bushings that pivot on the trunions require
> reaming to fit??

 Yes, especially if you also replaced the trunions and the pins that go 
through the bushings are the original size.  I had quite a bit of trouble 
finding a machine shop that could handle the job.  I gave the machinist the 
bushings, control arms, and trunions so he could make the measurements.

> Does anyone have a source for some information on a front end re-build?

The manual has good pictures of the whole assembly, but the text is a little 
"thin".  The Moss catalog shows every part and where they go (a sort-of 
assembly diagram).

> What about an assembly lube for the nylon and urethane bushes - any 
> recommendations?

I used anti-sieze compound with good results when I did my TR6 3 or 4 years 
ago.  Still squeek free.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 14 13:19:14 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 12:19:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] w56 toyota trans
Message-ID: <230780.64288.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

any one have a parts manual for the toyota w56 transmission?
thanks
frank fisher

From dlylis at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 14:35:41 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 20:35:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] w56 toyota trans
In-Reply-To: <230780.64288.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <230780.64288.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1247603800.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I may be mistaken but I think it is W58. I would call Herman or someone he directed me to called Man-Trans in Tallahassee FL at 877 626 8726 or www.manual-transmission.com. 

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 12:19:14 
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] w56 toyota trans


any one have a parts manual for the toyota w56 transmission?
thanks
frank fisher
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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jul 14 15:22:11 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 17:22:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] w56 toyota trans
In-Reply-To: <230780.64288.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <230780.64288.qm@web111606.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BBFB437C1AD240D18D9B48C27A2C4F8B@BOBSNEWPC>

Frank,

Here's a couple of links that might help:

http://tinyurl.com/mdjaqf

http://tinyurl.com/mza869 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 3:19 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] w56 toyota trans

any one have a parts manual for the toyota w56 transmission?
thanks
frank fisher
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http://www.vtr.org


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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 17:11:58 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:11:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?
Message-ID: <4A5D10BE.50200@gmail.com>

My question de jour is how does one go about removing a thick decal from 
a plexiglas hard top rear window without damaging the plexiglas.  The 
decal has been on for years, sitting under the sun and does not want to 
peal off.

Suggestions?

Thanks

TeriAnn
TS75519L

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Tue Jul 14 17:26:10 2009
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 19:26:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?
Message-ID: <cf7.5b16700f.378e6e12@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/14/2009 7:10:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tjwakeman at gmail.com writes:

My  question de jour is how does one go about removing a thick decal from 
a  plexiglas hard top rear window without damaging the plexiglas.  The  
decal has been on for years, sitting under the sun and does not want to  
peal off.

Suggestions?
==AM==
ISTR that WD-40 is a good solvent for such things. Good old lighter fluid  
(Zippo, Ronson -- i.e. naptha) probably will work. I don't think either 
should  harm the plexi.  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

**************Summer concert season is here! Find your favorite artists on 
tour at TourTracker.com. 
(http://www.tourtracker.com/?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000006)

From thomas309 at aol.com  Tue Jul 14 17:28:16 2009
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 19:28:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?
Message-ID: <c0f.5350a97f.378e6e90@aol.com>

I'd try either lighter fluid, or WD-40. Someone might even make a specific  
product (for convertible windows).
 
 
In a message dated 7/14/2009 7:10:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tjwakeman at gmail.com writes:

My  question de jour is how does one go about removing a thick decal from 
a  plexiglas hard top rear window without damaging the plexiglas.  The  
decal has been on for years, sitting under the sun and does not want to  
peal  off.

Suggestions?

Thanks

TeriAnn
TS75519L
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**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
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yExcfooterNO62)

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Jul 14 17:50:07 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:50:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?
In-Reply-To: <4A5D10BE.50200@gmail.com>
References: <4A5D10BE.50200@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <80BF6D1939784E5083F4EB2745B0CB6A@joepentiumnew>

I would try one of those cleaners made for preparing an autobody before
painting.  They dissolve the adhesive without harming the paint.

Some specific products are:

PPG Acryli-Clean
NAPA Fin-L-Wash

Caveat: It is a good idea to use a bit of any solvent on the least visible
part before going hog wild.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 4:12 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?

My question de jour is how does one go about removing a thick decal from 
a plexiglas hard top rear window without damaging the plexiglas.  The 
decal has been on for years, sitting under the sun and does not want to 
peal off.

Suggestions?

Thanks

TeriAnn
TS75519L
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From dlylis at gmail.com  Tue Jul 14 19:40:39 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 01:40:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?
In-Reply-To: <4A5D10BE.50200@gmail.com>
References: <4A5D10BE.50200@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1247622095.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Try Goo Gone. You are likely to have to keep it wet with the stuff. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>

Date: Tue, 14 Jul 2009 16:11:58 
To: Triumph List<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?


My question de jour is how does one go about removing a thick decal from 
a plexiglas hard top rear window without damaging the plexiglas.  The 
decal has been on for years, sitting under the sun and does not want to 
peal off.

Suggestions?

Thanks

TeriAnn
TS75519L
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Jul 14 22:12:29 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 00:12:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product
In-Reply-To: <1648083329.1118871.1247510210216.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <1648083329.1118871.1247510210216.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <0E53F5FC9BEC46DC9EF0E0F3FB21454F@CarlPC>

at $25 plus $10 shipping, you can get a whole bunch of
1) Kitty Litter that will work in the metal pan
2) absorbent seat pads (at the drug store or in my case - at Sam's Club)
my 2cents worth

Carl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <thenicholls at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 13, 2009 2:36 PM
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product


> Just to pass onto the list, for those of you whose vehicles leak fluids 
> (which is everyone).
>
> Last month I purchased this great Abzorb Mat 3' X 8 ' at: 
> http://www.autohaulersupply.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=736
>
> For the past few years, I had one of those pans under the car.  You have 
> to wipe them off, they rust, and just are a general pain.
>
> The 3'X8' under my TR6 fits between the wheels and is long enough to get 
> oil from the front of the engine as well as the occasional drip from the 
> diff. in the rear.
>
> After 2 or 3 years, throw it away an start over.  I am very happy how it 
> has performed to date.  NFI.
>
> Craig H. Nicholls
> Vienna, VA
> 1972 Triumph TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 02:36:08 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 08:36:08 +0000
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?
In-Reply-To: <cf7.5b16700f.378e6e12@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0016e64f51ae5e7aa4046eba725a@google.com>

The solvents suggested are good. I've also read that when you get and  
edge 'started' use a fine nylon fishing line or dental floss to help lift  
the decal while you apply solvent to the glue beneath.
There will come a point where the thread will eventually enable you to 'saw  
off' the decal.

Brian

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Jul 15 06:23:46 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 05:23:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Decal removal from Plexiglas?
In-Reply-To: <0016e64f51ae5e7aa4046eba725a@google.com>
References: <0016e64f51ae5e7aa4046eba725a@google.com>
Message-ID: <4A5DCA52.9030603@gmail.com>

Thanks for everyone's help.

I got the decal off.  It was an EAA decal often attached to aircraft.  
Nice and thick with a very tenacious  adhesive that fought me all the 
way.  First WD40 (who would have guessed it was a decal goo solvent 
unless by accident), then a trip to the store for Goo be gone, then a 
plastic scraper with lots of pressure between applications of solvent.  
It took a good 3 hours of scraping but the decal is gone without damage 
to the plexiglas  rear window.  There was no way that decal would let me 
get under it so it had to come off the hard way, little chip by little chip.

Thanks again.

Teriann

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 15 11:32:56 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 10:32:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product
In-Reply-To: <0E53F5FC9BEC46DC9EF0E0F3FB21454F@CarlPC>
References: <1648083329.1118871.1247510210216.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>
	<0E53F5FC9BEC46DC9EF0E0F3FB21454F@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <6084807D271445E18FF0F0A7DC2B53C2@jdnet.deere.com>

Even cheaper, find a business that is replacing their carpets and "help"
them by hauling away one of the old rolls.  Cut to size (and shape if
necessary) and lay it under the car.  When it gets full, throw away that
piece and cut another.

-- Randall 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Jul 15 19:29:11 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 15 Jul 2009 21:29:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recommendation on a great product
In-Reply-To: <6084807D271445E18FF0F0A7DC2B53C2@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <1648083329.1118871.1247510210216.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>
	<0E53F5FC9BEC46DC9EF0E0F3FB21454F@CarlPC>
	<6084807D271445E18FF0F0A7DC2B53C2@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <756C7ABB1D8D47C9A21FEE0C51B3FB6E@CarlPC>

Didn't even think about carpet for this purpose.  Good suggestion  I did 
locate a 10x20 piece to put in a portable garage for when I do so painting 
later in the year.

C

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Recommendation on a great product


> Even cheaper, find a business that is replacing their carpets and "help"
> them by hauling away one of the old rolls.  Cut to size (and shape if
> necessary) and lay it under the car.  When it gets full, throw away that
> piece and cut another.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Jul 16 07:40:10 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 06:40:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] decal
In-Reply-To: <CF0A56ABE1C34B1DAE8AEA4428C531AB@adminPC>
References: <CF0A56ABE1C34B1DAE8AEA4428C531AB@adminPC>
Message-ID: <4A5F2DBA.6050804@gmail.com>

jim tobler wrote:
> I know the horse has bolted, but next time try turps (turpentine).
> For some reason it softens most glues and doesn't harm most substrates.
> (Not original, was told about it by a cluey friend.)
Thanks Jim,  I'll try to keep that in mind.  The only decal left on my 
TR is the FOT decal on my windscreen but the Land Rover has the URL of 
my Land Rover web site and a very large decal from the truck's sponsor 
company.  Hopefully I will not get tagged with a decal. 

The hard top is new to me and I getting it to fit.  My mounts from the 
old rusty hard top are a little off for this top and I need to train the 
new waist gasket.  It took me a chunk of a day to get the mounts lined 
up and the top fitted with the new gasket in place.  When I think the 
waist gasket is formed I'll remove the top and get it refinished.  My 
old one was white on a signal red car.  I'm toying with the idea of 
making the new top signal red.  The new top is BRG. It makes my TR very 
Christmasy.

Take care

Teriann

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 08:38:43 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 07:38:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] decal
In-Reply-To: <4A5F2DBA.6050804@gmail.com>
References: <CF0A56ABE1C34B1DAE8AEA4428C531AB@adminPC>
	<4A5F2DBA.6050804@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c684eb7f48a6@[192.168.2.3]>

I have found that judicious application from a heat gun does wonders 
loosening decals of any kind.  No paint or glass damage, have not 
tried it on plexiglass...


>jim tobler wrote:
>>I know the horse has bolted, but next time try turps (turpentine).
>>For some reason it softens most glues and doesn't harm most substrates.
>>(Not original, was told about it by a cluey friend.)
>Thanks Jim,  I'll try to keep that in mind.  The only decal left on 
>my TR is the FOT decal on my windscreen but the Land Rover has the 
>URL of my Land Rover web site and a very large decal from the 
>truck's sponsor company.  Hopefully I will not get tagged with a 
>decal.
>The hard top is new to me and I getting it to fit.  My mounts from 
>the old rusty hard top are a little off for this top and I need to 
>train the new waist gasket.  It took me a chunk of a day to get the 
>mounts lined up and the top fitted with the new gasket in place. 
>When I think the waist gasket is formed I'll remove the top and get 
>it refinished.  My old one was white on a signal red car.  I'm 
>toying with the idea of making the new top signal red.  The new top 
>is BRG. It makes my TR very Christmasy.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 16 09:01:16 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 11:01:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] decal
Message-ID: <20090716110116.CLE27468@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Bill wrote:
> I have found that judicious application from a heat gun does
> wonders loosening decals of any kind.  No paint or glass
> damage, have not tried it on plexiglass...

Perhaps it does wonders loosening plexiglass or any kind too.
--
Jim Muller

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 10:53:28 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 16:53:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] decal
In-Reply-To: <20090716110116.CLE27468@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <2072419959.2204081247763208348.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- jimmuller at rcn.com wrote:
> Bill wrote:
> > I have found that judicious application from a heat gun does
> > wonders loosening decals of any kind.  No paint or glass
> > damage, have not tried it on plexiglass...
> 
> Perhaps it does wonders loosening plexiglass of any kind too.
> --
> Jim Muller

Indeed.  I would not go near a piece of plexi with a heat gun unless I was trying to form it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 11:33:28 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 10:33:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
In-Reply-To: <2072419959.2204081247763208348.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20090716110116.CLE27468@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<2072419959.2204081247763208348.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8723DBF35CD74D87A91CD631F20D989C@jdnet.deere.com>

pethier at comcast.net wrote :
> I would not go near a piece of plexi with a heat gun unless I was
> trying to form it.

Since you've raised the topic, what is the easiest way for a total novice to
go about putting some mild bends in some 3/16" Plexiglas?  I've got some old
AMCO wind deflectors for my project TR3, but the plexi is broken on one
side.  The original had a gentle S-curve to fit around the car body better,
which I would like to duplicate for a replacement piece.

Is a heat gun the way to go?  Are we talking hair dryer or heat shrink
tubing gun?

-- Randall 

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Thu Jul 16 12:36:19 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 11:36:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1247767202.25379.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1247767202.25379.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <02A04C6F6F9F4AEFB082656F6477BA2F@Gateway1>

Randall,

During my years in aerospace R&D I used a lot of plexi and lexan for
prototypes, and used a heat gun (hair dryer couldn't get hot enough) to make
all sorts of smooth shapes. I'm sure you know to use gloves 'cause heat guns
get HOT! The plexi will have a longer shaping dwell time than lexan, but
lexan is sooo much stronger. Once you get the hang of it, it's a piece of
cake. Try practicing by making some picture frames first... that way you
won't ruin the deflectors right off. Having a form would make it that much
more fool proof. Good luck!

Brian


------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 10:33:28 -0700
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <8723DBF35CD74D87A91CD631F20D989C at jdnet.deere.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

pethier at comcast.net wrote :
> I would not go near a piece of plexi with a heat gun unless I was
> trying to form it.

Since you've raised the topic, what is the easiest way for a total novice to
go about putting some mild bends in some 3/16" Plexiglas?  I've got some old
AMCO wind deflectors for my project TR3, but the plexi is broken on one
side.  The original had a gentle S-curve to fit around the car body better,
which I would like to duplicate for a replacement piece.

Is a heat gun the way to go?  Are we talking hair dryer or heat shrink
tubing gun?

-- Randall 


------------------------------

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End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 324
****************************************

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Jul 16 12:44:08 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 11:44:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
In-Reply-To: <8723DBF35CD74D87A91CD631F20D989C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20090716110116.CLE27468@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><2072419959.2204081247763208348.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8723DBF35CD74D87A91CD631F20D989C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <33F510BBF31F42D8878A084FA7E35D49@joepentiumnew>

Large tub of boiling water.

Make yourself a mold of the shape you want  

Submerge the piece of Plexi in the boiling water

When it becomes pliable, lay it onto the mold and let it cool.

Then cut it to the final shape.

You can fire polish the rough edges using a flame.

Heat guns make the plexi soft but only where the heat hits it.  So the
flexability is difficult to control.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 10:33 AM
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi

pethier at comcast.net wrote :
> I would not go near a piece of plexi with a heat gun unless I was
> trying to form it.

Since you've raised the topic, what is the easiest way for a total novice to
go about putting some mild bends in some 3/16" Plexiglas?  I've got some old
AMCO wind deflectors for my project TR3, but the plexi is broken on one
side.  The original had a gentle S-curve to fit around the car body better,
which I would like to duplicate for a replacement piece.

Is a heat gun the way to go?  Are we talking hair dryer or heat shrink
tubing gun?

-- Randall 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Jul 16 12:58:52 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:58:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
References: <20090716110116.CLE27468@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><2072419959.2204081247763208348.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8723DBF35CD74D87A91CD631F20D989C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <708B6BB1D3A64EACA8B7A45BDCD56877@KARL>

I've had good luck just holding the Plexiglas over a red-hot element on our 
electric stove till it was pliable enough.  Easy to re-do if it needs a 
little more (or less) bend, and you can control the heat by the distance 
form the element.

Karl


> Since you've raised the topic, what is the easiest way for a total novice 
> to
> go about putting some mild bends in some 3/16" Plexiglas? 

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Jul 16 13:04:53 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:04:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
References: <mailman.3.1247767202.25379.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<02A04C6F6F9F4AEFB082656F6477BA2F@Gateway1>
Message-ID: <4FE63A0B4F66436A8B274536C18B4C2D@KARL>

I've carried this nugget of possibly-bogus information for neary 40 years. 
I made a replacement windshield for my race car out of Lexan and tried to 
bend it as I had the original Plexi one.  However, I got a diffusion of tiny 
bubbles throughout the plastic in the area I heated.

At the time, the glass guy who'd given me the Lexan told me that it was 
because that was UV-stabilized Lexan.  He said the UV stabilizer was just 
water and when heated it turned to steam, making the bubbles.

Truth or BS ???

Karl


> During my years in aerospace R&D I used a lot of plexi and lexan for
> prototypes, and used a heat gun (hair dryer couldn't get hot enough) to 
> make
> all sorts of smooth shapes. 

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Jul 16 13:28:40 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:28:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] Carpet on the garage floor
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1247767202.25379.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1247767202.25379.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <77B29F80-1EE2-4728-B0C6-3BAF357646E4@telus.net>

I have a large piece under where the TR6 parks. Much warmer than cold  
concrete if I have to get down to check things out. Also keep a piece  
narrow enough to fit between the wheels to throw on the ground/ 
driveway for when I do oil changes etc. Warm and dry...

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Jul 16 13:34:53 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:34:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 324
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1247767202.25379.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1247767202.25379.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <EF5A43B9-2431-424C-98A3-FB3991E63410@telus.net>

A hair dryer won't do any good. You need focused heat to soften the  
area you want to bend.  You can use an electric oven element or an  
electric barbecue starter (does anybody still use charcoal?) .  You  
want to localize the heat so the bend occurs where you want it. It  
also helps to have something of an appropriate diameter to bend it  
around ( Broom stick, dowel etc.)   Practice with some scrap first.
On 16-Jul-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Date: July 16, 2009 11:33:28 AM MDT (CA)
> Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
>
>
> pethier at comcast.net wrote :
>> I would not go near a piece of plexi with a heat gun unless I was
>> trying to form it.
>
> Since you've raised the topic, what is the easiest way for a total  
> novice to
> go about putting some mild bends in some 3/16" Plexiglas?  I've got  
> some old
> AMCO wind deflectors for my project TR3, but the plexi is broken on  
> one
> side.  The original had a gentle S-curve to fit around the car body  
> better,
> which I would like to duplicate for a replacement piece.
>
> Is a heat gun the way to go?  Are we talking hair dryer or heat shrink
> tubing gun?
>
> -- Randall 

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Thu Jul 16 14:27:48 2009
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:27:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
In-Reply-To: <4FE63A0B4F66436A8B274536C18B4C2D@KARL>
References: <mailman.3.1247767202.25379.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<02A04C6F6F9F4AEFB082656F6477BA2F@Gateway1>
	<4FE63A0B4F66436A8B274536C18B4C2D@KARL>
Message-ID: <DB888A063C534FB18FEE4572A605965A@Gateway1>

In my experience, the UV stabilized component is a coating on the exterior
of the plastic. But it's possible it could also be in the form of
impregnated sunscreen... Always best to use un coated material for this.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: Karl Vacek [mailto:kvacek at ameritech.net] 
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 12:05 PM
To: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Forming plexi


I've carried this nugget of possibly-bogus information for neary 40 years. 
I made a replacement windshield for my race car out of Lexan and tried to 
bend it as I had the original Plexi one.  However, I got a diffusion of tiny

bubbles throughout the plastic in the area I heated.

At the time, the glass guy who'd given me the Lexan told me that it was 
because that was UV-stabilized Lexan.  He said the UV stabilizer was just 
water and when heated it turned to steam, making the bubbles.

Truth or BS ???

Karl


> During my years in aerospace R&D I used a lot of plexi and lexan for
> prototypes, and used a heat gun (hair dryer couldn't get hot enough) to 
> make
> all sorts of smooth shapes. 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 16 14:57:18 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 16:57:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] and a bad coil?
Message-ID: <4A5F5BEE.6113.14F5B789@localhost>

So yesterday I (finally) got to put new ignition stuff into the GT6, 
points, condensor, rotor button and dizzy cap.  The new condensor 
didn't fit too well.  It was bigger than the previous and I had to 
bend the bracket a bit so it wouldn't rub on the cam.  No problem...  
And today I put in new plug wires.

The car runs better, idles smoothly, revs nicely up to about 3000rpm, 
then starts missing again.  At that point I get better acceleration 
by upshifting just to keep the rev's down.  Bring the rev's down and 
it pulls smartly, evenly.  Bummer.  Something still ain't right.

Question is, what?

The next free minute I get, probably on Saturday, I'm going to pull 
the floats out of the carbs (a pair of SUs), and maybe check the fule 
pump delivery, but I don't expect to find much.  It feels 'lectrical, 
not fuel-ical, err, I mean, fule-ical.

So one possibility is, could it be the coil?  It seems to be worse 
after I've been driving for some minutes, though I wouldn't swear to 
that under oath.  The coil is a Lucas Sport, was on there when I 
bought the car about 7 years ago.  I suppose there might be a ballast 
wire somewhere but I'm not sure.  What are the usual symptoms when a 
coil fails?

Query:  A ballast wire or ballast resistor is ony about 5-10 Ohms, 
right?  Just wonder what I should look for if I put a meter on it.  
And is there any real advantage of one coil over another?  I can't 
see why there should be.  That might matter if I put on a new coil.

Tanks,

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 15:53:20 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:53:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] and a bad coil?
In-Reply-To: <4A5F5BEE.6113.14F5B789@localhost>
References: <4A5F5BEE.6113.14F5B789@localhost>
Message-ID: <3255C571EF4B4668932D527A76987D97@jdnet.deere.com>

> Query:  A ballast wire or ballast resistor is ony about 5-10 Ohms,
> right?  Just wonder what I should look for if I put a meter on it.

Usually much smaller than that, around 1.5 ohms.  Best check IMO is to turn
the engine until the points are closed (or install a jumper to simulate
points closed) and check how much voltage you have at the coil.  With no
ballast, should be darn near battery voltage.  If it's less, you may have a
ballast or possibly something else limiting current, like a bad connection
or a dodgy ignition switch.

> The coil is a Lucas Sport, was on there when I
> bought the car about 7 years ago.  

Contrary to what some people believe, Lucas Sport coils come in both
flavors.  Check the part number/markings before assuming that it does/not
need a ballast; or measure the primary resistance.

> What are the usual symptoms when a coil fails?

Beats me.  I don't think I've ever had a failure that wasn't obvious, like
broken plastic or leaking oil or open circuit.  I pulled the motor from the
former daily driver TR3A the other day, and it's still wearing the coil from
K-mart back in 1986 or so.

> And is there any real advantage of one coil over another?  I can't
> see why there should be.  That might matter if I put on a new coil.

Do you mean ballast vs no ballast?  IMO only advantage is in cold weather,
when the ballast bypass circuit gives a bit more spark energy for easier
starting.  Likewise the "high output" coils are only helpful in situations
where you might get a misfire otherwise, like starting from cold; tired or
fouled plugs; mixture not all it should be, etc.

That said, I ran a MSD 6 ignition for many years on the daily driver (the
K-mart coil was because the MSD toasted the old Accel coil), which will
produce lightning bolts from pretty much any coil.  Did start easier, but no
noticeable "seat of the pants" difference once the engine was running.  I
kept it mostly because it made the points last forever.

When the MSD finally died, I switched to a Crane XR3000 to compensate for
the worn distributor.   Never did run quite as crisply with the Crane as it
did on either points or MSD, don't know why.

Haven't quite decided what to do with the project TR3; but for now it's
running just fine on 30 year old points.

-- Randall 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 16 16:46:47 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 18:46:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] and a bad coil?
In-Reply-To: <3255C571EF4B4668932D527A76987D97@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <4A5F5BEE.6113.14F5B789@localhost>
Message-ID: <4A5F7597.20840.1559F40E@localhost>

On 16 Jul 2009 at 14:53, Randall wrote:

> Usually much smaller than that, around 1.5 ohms.

Thanks for the quick reply, Randall.

For what it's worth, in a spare minute I just checked over the wiring 
to the coil.  The positive lead was breaking through, hanging on by 
only a few strands.  If it had broken the engine would've just 
stopped, of course, but if it offered so much resistance that the 
coil couldn't charge fast enough, that would produce ignition failure 
at higher rev's.  Also the breaking of most of the strands would've 
induced the sudden performance problem I saw.

So I put on a new terminal with some strain relief and fired it up.  
It seems to rev more readily, doesn't miss at higher rev's.  That's 
all with no load, of course, but I'll take it out after dinner...

Thanks all.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 16 18:04:57 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 17:04:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] and a bad coil?
In-Reply-To: <4A5F7597.20840.1559F40E@localhost>
References: <4A5F5BEE.6113.14F5B789@localhost>
	<4A5F7597.20840.1559F40E@localhost>
Message-ID: <37D8CC0106024C6D8FB9645F609F017A@jdnet.deere.com>

> The positive lead was breaking through, hanging on by
> only a few strands.  

Sounds like you've nailed it, Jim.  Hope you enjoy your drive.

-- Randall 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 18:33:25 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 00:33:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting Help
In-Reply-To: <4A5F7597.20840.1559F40E@localhost>
Message-ID: <1743993074.2207691247790805538.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Hello, everyone.



Drove my TR3A homebound tonight, cruising smooth at all speeds, when I ran
into a torrential downpour by the.B  Had to pull to a stop alongside the road
in front of the County Jail and look like I belonged.

Lost all ignition.B  It did start up again, ran so rough I was barely able to
coax it into moving.B  Then it nearly gave up the ghost in Franklin, about 8
miles from home.B  It'll start, but will backfire and won't achieve revs
before stalling again.

I did already dry out the distributor cap and guts.B  Am running a
Pertrinox.B  My coil is the original one to the car, though, and ISTR that if
a coil gets wet, it can show its age or fail?B  About the coil, the coil wire
into the coil is bare wire.B  I had tried soldering it a couple of times to a
copper washer to set inside the coil, but the solder never lasts.B  Still,
it's ran fine that way until, like I said, until the rainstorm was so thick I
couldn't see the road for about five minutes.B  BTW, I took out the coil wire,
dried everything inside the coil receptacle too.

So...what's more likely to give even after drying out...the Pertrinox or the
coil?B 

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From team.net at daveola.com  Thu Jul 16 18:27:28 2009
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 17:27:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] w56 toyota trans
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1247680801.24113.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1247680801.24113.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E1MRbOa-0003jA-7W@dave.getdave.com>

> I may be mistaken but I think it is W58.

Either would work, but the W56 has 'lower' gearing in 1st/2nd for
trucks, most people use the W58 as it's more common and fairly
similar to 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_W_transmission

Hermann also has an easy to read ratio comparison with Triumph/Toyota:

http://www.hvdaconversions.com/pgs-final/gear-ratios.html

It doesn't specify which W-series tranny is used in each column, but 
then again you can't really tell from the outside of the transmission 
which one you've got, you have to count teeth or rotations.

If you're looking for a parts manual, I keep a copy up at
my album showing the conversion I did - the link to the
manual is in the header text:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Transmission-Conversion/

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415 341-5555
------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------

From tr6parts at charter.net  Thu Jul 16 18:53:11 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 20:53:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpet
Message-ID: <A0EC6C7C51484F73B15B5121D77A8849@Alan>

I have  a Black nylon carpet set by the Magic Carpet Factory  still in the
box from TRF for sale for a TR6.

I decided to go with the original color which was a lt blue from TRF.
I thought I'd had it a bit too long to ask for a return.

$275.00 if anyone has a need.

Thanks,

Al Salvatore

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 16 19:04:40 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 21:04:40 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpet
Message-ID: <d16.4d89ad27.37912828@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/16/2009 7:54:04 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr6parts at charter.net writes: 
> I have  a Black nylon carpet set by the Magic Carpet Factory  still in 
> the
> box from TRF for sale for a TR6.
> 
> I decided to go with the original color which was a lt blue from TRF.
> I thought I'd had it a bit too long to ask for a return.
> 
> $275.00 if anyone has a need.
> 
> 
As it so happens I was just going to order up a set of TR6 carpets.  I 
can't pass up a deal like this.

Going to Summer party?

Dave Massey

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Thu Jul 16 18:57:36 2009
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 2009 17:57:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
References: <20090716110116.CLE27468@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><2072419959.2204081247763208348.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8723DBF35CD74D87A91CD631F20D989C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <30B23DADB0FC4E1491DAE5C6CEFB84E2@Dell>

Randall, many years ago I bought a heat strip very similar to the one here:
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=169&

I mounted it on a pice of 3/4" plywood in which I had routed a 3/4" wide 
groove so the heating element would not actually touch the plastic. I 
covered the board with aspestos paper before mounting the heating element. 
(I wonder if you can still get that stuff?)  The instructions that came with 
the elemnet said to make the base by mounting 2- 1/4" boards wrapped in 
aspestos paper 3/4" apart on a 3/4" board with another piece of aspestos 
paper on it - I wonder why I remember that?  It's actually pretty simple and 
once you've made the tool, you will discover all kinds of things that you 
have to have made out of plexiglass :-)

Bob



> pethier at comcast.net wrote :
>> I would not go near a piece of plexi with a heat gun unless I was
>> trying to form it.
>
> Since you've raised the topic, what is the easiest way for a total novice 
> to
> go about putting some mild bends in some 3/16" Plexiglas?  I've got some 
> old
> AMCO wind deflectors for my project TR3, but the plexi is broken on one
> side.  The original had a gentle S-curve to fit around the car body 
> better,
> which I would like to duplicate for a replacement piece.
>
> Is a heat gun the way to go?  Are we talking hair dryer or heat shrink
> tubing gun?

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 17 01:54:23 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 07:54:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] Forming plexi
In-Reply-To: <8723DBF35CD74D87A91CD631F20D989C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20090716110116.CLE27468@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<2072419959.2204081247763208348.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<8723DBF35CD74D87A91CD631F20D989C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W115CC16C399DF5A5522394E51E0@phx.gbl>

The heat gun I would use is the kind that goes to 1000 + degrees.  Before
forming plexiglass with a heat gun you should try it on a sample of the
plexiglass.   For some reason I have a recollection that heating plexiglass
tends to cloud it.

Last year I tried to make an orthodic for my shoe with 1/8" plastic and a heat
gun.  The problem I ran into was the plastic would have to reach it's melting
point before it could be formed.  This produced uneven bends.

Best regards,

Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage_062009

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 17 02:16:55 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 08:16:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Carpet
In-Reply-To: <A0EC6C7C51484F73B15B5121D77A8849@Alan>
References: <A0EC6C7C51484F73B15B5121D77A8849@Alan>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W12DA158A69E6AEBB80D155E51E0@phx.gbl>

At the Triumphest in 2004 I had a grill I had ordered over a year earlier that
I wanted to return to TRF in the trunk of my chase car.  Charles told me that
if it was in good condition he would accept it.  The grill was in perfect
condition and still in the original packaging.  Charles accepted the return on
the spot and gave me full credit for the purchase price.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_BR_life_in_synch_062009

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul 17 06:34:20 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 08:34:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] and a bad coil?
In-Reply-To: <4A5F5BEE.6113.14F5B789@localhost>
References: <4A5F5BEE.6113.14F5B789@localhost>
Message-ID: <E185F231318F43DF9ADB6AA95E016E14@BOBSNEWPC>

I don't know if it will help or not but Moss has a new video posted on How
to Test Your Coil http://tinyurl.com/lcd33l  

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2009 4:57 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] and a bad coil?

So yesterday I (finally) got to put new ignition stuff into the GT6, points,
condensor, rotor button and dizzy cap.  The new condensor didn't fit too
well.  It was bigger than the previous and I had to bend the bracket a bit
so it wouldn't rub on the cam.  No problem...  
And today I put in new plug wires.

The car runs better, idles smoothly, revs nicely up to about 3000rpm, then
starts missing again.  At that point I get better acceleration by upshifting
just to keep the rev's down.  Bring the rev's down and it pulls smartly,
evenly.  Bummer.  Something still ain't right.

Question is, what?

The next free minute I get, probably on Saturday, I'm going to pull the
floats out of the carbs (a pair of SUs), and maybe check the fule pump
delivery, but I don't expect to find much.  It feels 'lectrical, not
fuel-ical, err, I mean, fule-ical.

So one possibility is, could it be the coil?  It seems to be worse after
I've been driving for some minutes, though I wouldn't swear to that under
oath.  The coil is a Lucas Sport, was on there when I bought the car about 7
years ago.  I suppose there might be a ballast wire somewhere but I'm not
sure.  What are the usual symptoms when a coil fails?

Query:  A ballast wire or ballast resistor is ony about 5-10 Ohms, right?
Just wonder what I should look for if I put a meter on it.  
And is there any real advantage of one coil over another?  I can't see why
there should be.  That might matter if I put on a new coil.

Tanks,

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 19:59:44 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 01:59:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Walter Conkite
In-Reply-To: <1648083329.1118871.1247510210216.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <50630736.2773021247882384975.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I just heard that Triumph racer Walter Conkite has passed away at 92.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Fri Jul 17 21:12:33 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 20:12:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Walter Conkite
In-Reply-To: <50630736.2773021247882384975.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <50630736.2773021247882384975.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <720813.55853.qm@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I hope we all live as long with the tenacity he appeared to have and the
enjoyment of life that he appeared to have....I've read about his interest in
sailing, but what is the Triumph story with him.  Did he actually race them? 
No kidding, I didn't know he enjoyed these cars.
Pat
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009
6:59:44 PM
Subject: [TR] Walter Conkite

I just heard that Triumph racer
Walter Conkite has passed away at 92.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul
Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L  1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994
Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums  http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as
pcaffrey at ymail.com

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From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Jul 17 22:40:09 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 04:40:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Walter Conkite
In-Reply-To: <720813.55853.qm@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <679919827.2804901247892009530.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "P Caffrey" <pcaffrey at ymail.com> wrote:

> I hope we all live as long with the tenacity he appeared to have and
> the enjoyment of life that he appeared to have....I've read about his
> interest in sailing, but what is the Triumph story with him. Did he
> actually race them? 

Yes.  He raced a TR3 back in the early days of SCCA

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat Jul 18 07:41:22 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 08:41:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Walter Conkite
References: <679919827.2804901247892009530.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7F6F522DE3B640988F238D4710B56B2B@trigeni.com>

This, of course, prompted a google search.  I couldn't find any reference to 
his racing a TR3, but I did discover that he raced a Volvo PV544, a Lotus 11 
and drove a Lancia Appia Zagato in the 12 hrs of Sebring in 1959.  The only 
TR3 reference I found was an occasion when a publicity photo was taken of 
him in a TR3 receiving a ticket from a "bobby" (who was actually a Triumph 
executive in costume).  Apparently his wife asked him to find a more 
family-oriented hobby, which caused him to take up sailing.  What an 
accomplished guy!

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "P Caffrey" <pcaffrey at ymail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Conkite


> ----- "P Caffrey" <pcaffrey at ymail.com> wrote:
>
>> I hope we all live as long with the tenacity he appeared to have and
>> the enjoyment of life that he appeared to have....I've read about his
>> interest in sailing, but what is the Triumph story with him. Did he
>> actually race them?
>
> Yes.  He raced a TR3 back in the early days of SCCA
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
> 1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jul 18 11:50:03 2009
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:50:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Road side help/info pls - points
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B586FF6@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

/6BIS7i: Permission denied

From davidt at opentext.com  Sat Jul 18 11:55:26 2009
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:55:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Road side help/info pls - points
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B586FF7@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>


From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Jul 18 12:15:06 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 14:15:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Road side help/info pls - points
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B586FF6@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <4A61D8EA.993.1EADE5D6@localhost>

On 18 Jul 2009 at 13:50, David Templeton wrote:

> /6BIS7i: Permission denied

and then a few moments later:

>

Sorry, we can't help without more info.  However getting permission 
would seem to be a good place to start.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Jul 18 15:38:52 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 14:38:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Walter Conkite
References: <mailman.3.1247940002.10618.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000601ca07f0$2554f270$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

"The book "Triumph Cars in America" by Michael Cook has a fun picture of
Walter Cronkite driving a TR3 and getting a ticket from a "Bobby" on page
43. It was a staged photo where the "Bobby" was a Triumph employee in a
costume done at Lime Rock. "

Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.12850
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Jul 18 13:38:44 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 19:38:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting Help
In-Reply-To: <1743993074.2207691247790805538.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1017739991.2669821247945924533.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>So...what's more likely to give even after drying out...the Pertrinox or the
>coil?B

Coil shmoil.B  Got the car home this morning where I could work on it.B 
Replaced the distributor cap and it started and ran with power.



Don't think it was the cap, though I'm tossing the old one anyway.B  Think
maybe it was the tip of the coil wire where it screws into the cap.B  I
snipped the end off all the wires before refastening them to the new one.B  Am
wondering if there was corrosion in there.B  Would account for the weak spark.



Learned something else last night alongside the road.B  The distributor cap I
carry for a spare doesn't have the screws in it, and they're a difference size
from the cap that was in the car.B  Hmmmm....



Need to order a new Standard cap.B  Also, does anyone remember where to get
those good, dependable brown rotor caps?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Jul 18 13:38:44 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 19:38:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting Help
In-Reply-To: <1743993074.2207691247790805538.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1017739991.2669821247945924533.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>So...what's more likely to give even after drying out...the Pertrinox or the
>coil?B

Coil shmoil.B  Got the car home this morning where I could work on it.B 
Replaced the distributor cap and it started and ran with power.



Don't think it was the cap, though I'm tossing the old one anyway.B  Think
maybe it was the tip of the coil wire where it screws into the cap.B  I
snipped the end off all the wires before refastening them to the new one.B  Am
wondering if there was corrosion in there.B  Would account for the weak spark.



Learned something else last night alongside the road.B  The distributor cap I
carry for a spare doesn't have the screws in it, and they're a difference size
from the cap that was in the car.B  Hmmmm....



Need to order a new Standard cap.B  Also, does anyone remember where to get
those good, dependable brown rotor caps?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 18 13:55:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 12:55:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Road side help/info pls - points
In-Reply-To: <4A61D8EA.993.1EADE5D6@localhost>
Message-ID: <20090718195537151.RDJV5000@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> On 18 Jul 2009 at 13:50, David Templeton wrote:
> 
> > /6BIS7i: Permission denied

I vaguely recall that the "permission denied" message was a result of
sending messages in rich text format or HTML or something like that to the
Team.Net list server.  It tries to translate to plain text, but the
translation feature doesn't always work (permission is denied because the
file doesn't exist or something like that).

Anyway, try setting your email software to "plain text" and "7 bit US-ASCII"
(or whatever it calls these values) and posting again.  If you like, you can
CC me directly, and I'll both try to help and forward the message to the
list.

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Jul 18 14:33:30 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:33:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting Help
In-Reply-To: <1401088978.2678501247948999903.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1728810668.2679081247949210633.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Never mind.B  It was RockAuto.



>Need to order a new Standard cap.B B Also, does anyone remember where to get
>those good, dependable brown rotor caps?

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Jul 18 14:33:30 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 20:33:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting Help
In-Reply-To: <1401088978.2678501247948999903.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1728810668.2679081247949210633.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Never mind.B  It was RockAuto.



>Need to order a new Standard cap.B B Also, does anyone remember where to get
>those good, dependable brown rotor caps?

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Jul 18 14:55:26 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 13:55:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts
Message-ID: <889745.40454.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am removing my windshield frame on my 74 TR6 for painting. I got the
center windshield support bracket bolt loosened and then it spun in the caged
nut. This is the caged nut that is located above the heater and behind the
fresh air vent. I don't see any good way to get to it. I plan to remove the
heater and try to grab it (the nut cage) with vice grips. The bolt was
previously soaked with Kroil to loosen it up, but I guess it had been getting
moisture from the fresh air vent and really rusted up. After getting the nut
loose, I plan to try to hold the nut back in with epoxy so it won't spin in
the already damaged nut cage and then re-assemble it with a new bolt and
 anti-seize.      Other ideas include hack sawing the head of the bolt off
which will allow me to get the windshield frame off, and then drilling the
bolt shank out, epoxying in the nut in the cage and re-threading the caged
nut.
     Has anyone else ran across this and how did you get out of it?     Man,
this all looked straight forward when I started.      TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Jul 18 18:04:30 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 18:04:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Troubleshooting Help
In-Reply-To: <1017739991.2669821247945924533.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1743993074.2207691247790805538.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1017739991.2669821247945924533.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8BF7DD79708746EDAD4780868587F219@bboffice>

Terry,
I didn't see the advice go by on the list so I will give it here.  WD-40 was
designed for Water Displacement(WD?), I always carried a can in my old
Hillman Minx.  After a stall-out and no-start from a rain or large puddle a
good liberal soaking of WD-40 usually did the trick, at least well enough to
get me home for a thorough drying out. 

Glad to hear you are back on the road!

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 1:39 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Troubleshooting Help

>So...what's more likely to give even after drying out...the Pertrinox 
>or the coil?B

Coil shmoil.B  Got the car home this morning where I could work on it.B
Replaced the distributor cap and it started and ran with power.



Don't think it was the cap, though I'm tossing the old one anyway.B  Think
maybe it was the tip of the coil wire where it screws into the cap.B  I
snipped the end off all the wires before refastening them to the new one.B
Am
wondering if there was corrosion in there.B  Would account for the weak
spark.



Learned something else last night alongside the road.B  The distributor cap
I
carry for a spare doesn't have the screws in it, and they're a difference
size
from the cap that was in the car.B  Hmmmm....



Need to order a new Standard cap.B  Also, does anyone remember where to get
those good, dependable brown rotor caps?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Jul 18 18:59:32 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 17:59:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Belt Rebuilding
Message-ID: <920257.87176.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Does anyone know of somewhere where they rebuild original TR6 inertial
seat belts back to original spec's? Have any listers just rebuilt their own?
Looking for things to do while the car is being repainted.
     Bill in Tehachapi

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Jul 18 20:04:18 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 22:04:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Belt Rebuilding
References: <920257.87176.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B9E1848CF720491A82D35020D658D2DF@Alan>

Try these guys.
http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=FAQ

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 8:59 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Belt Rebuilding


>     Does anyone know of somewhere where they rebuild original TR6 inertial
> seat belts back to original spec's? Have any listers just rebuilt their 
> own?
> Looking for things to do while the car is being repainted.
>     Bill in Tehachapi

From pfullam at nycap.rr.com  Sat Jul 18 22:36:34 2009
From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter Fullam)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 00:36:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <7F6F522DE3B640988F238D4710B56B2B@trigeni.com>
References: <679919827.2804901247892009530.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<7F6F522DE3B640988F238D4710B56B2B@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <000001ca082a$7f3181c0$7d948540$@rr.com>

It was CBS who pulled the plug Walter Cronkite's racing. He had become too
valuable to the network. Years later, he kept a TR6 at his summer place on
Martha's Vineyard. There was talk of inviting him to the VTR meeting in
Albany in 1996, but nothing came of it.

Pete F.



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Marr
Sent: Saturday, July 18, 2009 9:41 AM
To: pethier at comcast.net; P Caffrey
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Conkite

This, of course, prompted a google search.  I couldn't find any reference to
his racing a TR3, but I did discover that he raced a Volvo PV544, a Lotus 11
and drove a Lancia Appia Zagato in the 12 hrs of Sebring in 1959.  The only
TR3 reference I found was an occasion when a publicity photo was taken of
him in a TR3 receiving a ticket from a "bobby" (who was actually a Triumph
executive in costume).  Apparently his wife asked him to find a more
family-oriented hobby, which caused him to take up sailing.  What an
accomplished guy!

Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "P Caffrey" <pcaffrey at ymail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 17, 2009 11:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Conkite


> ----- "P Caffrey" <pcaffrey at ymail.com> wrote:
>
>> I hope we all live as long with the tenacity he appeared to have and
>> the enjoyment of life that he appeared to have....I've read about his
>> interest in sailing, but what is the Triumph story with him. Did he
>> actually race them?
>
> Yes.  He raced a TR3 back in the early days of SCCA
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
> 1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> _______________________________________________

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 19 03:46:31 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 09:46:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Road side help/info pls - points
In-Reply-To: <4A61D8EA.993.1EADE5D6@localhost>
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B586FF6@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
	<4A61D8EA.993.1EADE5D6@localhost>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W52A1F06F56CCF77AC7248FE51C0@phx.gbl>

Permission?  We don't need no stinking permission.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.: Celebrate the moment with your favorite sports pics.
Check it out.
http://www.windowslive.com/Online/Hotmail/Campaign/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL
_QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports

From rene.p.remond at wanadoo.fr  Sun Jul 19 04:18:15 2009
From: rene.p.remond at wanadoo.fr (rene.remond)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 12:18:15 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <6605884.179682.1247998695384.JavaMail.www@wwinf2208>

hi listers

thanks for all to answer me about my temp sensor failure.
i am now in spain for two weeks and try your suggestions when bck at home infrance
thanks a lot

rene

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 04:21:06 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:21:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] Someone's memory of Walter Cronkite
Message-ID: <0016e644de5e16d917046f0c6164@google.com>

I was browsing an online collection of people's memories of Walter  
Cronkite, and came across this:

"My one shared moment in time with Walter. It was 1962 - summer. I was  
working as an apprentice at Bucks County Playhouse in New Hope, PA. It's  
around 6 am Sunday morning after a long strike night. I'm walking through  
the deserted streets of town - heading home to my little rooming house. Not  
another soul in sight.

I hear a motor in the distance - the high-pitched whine of a very fast  
engine. It gets louder. Suddenly, a red Triumph TR3 comes barreling down  
the slight incline into town. It takes a quick left onto West Bridge Street  
and slows down slightly as it approaches the bridge to Lambertville, New  
Jersey. The top's down. It's Walter! Hair not yet white ... except around  
the temples.

He gears down, the engine moans. He waves as he passes me ... then he guns  
the engine and he's off.

Gee, I say to myself (even back then!) there goes a legend!"

There will be others on the list like me, living in that area, that will  
recognise the exact spot described. We all recognise the joy of an early  
morning spin in our TRs, just at Walter Cronkite did.

Brian Jones

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 19 08:19:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 07:19:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Road side help/info pls - points
In-Reply-To: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42B586FF9@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <20090719141914606.JYHA28563@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

David, your Blackberry is sending messages in HTML.  As I said before, it's
officially unsupported; you should adjust it to send in plain text.
Sometimes the magic works, sometimes it doesn't.

David's question was :

> Thanks, we replace the pertronics unit with the points, still no start :-
> (  no spark at the plugs. When we cranks the points smoked a little, at
> that point a wise voice said stop.
> 
> The mga was still a +ve ground car.

At first glance, sounds like a bad coil (shorted primary); or possibly the
wrong coil (no ballast resistor on an MGA, maybe it was a coil that wanted
one).

I would be looking for some way to check the primary current through the
coil.  If you DMM will handle DC current to 10 amps or so (some will, some
won't), then you could just check the current directly (but it might pop the
fuse inside the meter if the coil is shorted).  A safer way would be to
temporarily insert a ballast resistor (remove the wire from the distributor
and ground it through the resistor) and check the voltage across the
resistor (ignition on).  It should only be about 3 volts (in this case),
much more than that indicates a shorted coil.  If you do the test quickly, a
shorted coil might not burn up the ballast.

Or just try another coil <G>
(But be sure to get one that does not need an external ballast, or else add
a ballast for it.)

Randall

From tr3a at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 08:33:09 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 10:33:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <74D2F495-8F26-4BEF-BE2F-30F4F6D1D429@comcast.net>

Sorry. Pls pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 19 09:26:45 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:26:45 EDT
Subject: [TR] Walter Conkite
Message-ID: <d5e.5293732a.37949535@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/17/2009 9:04:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> I just heard that Triumph racer Walter Conkite has passed away at 92.
> 
Uncle Walt raced Triumphs?  I didn't know he even raced.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 19 09:44:52 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:44:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] Walter Conkite
Message-ID: <bd1.5a237320.37949974@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/18/2009 8:42:54 AM Central Daylight Time, 
mmarr at notwires.com writes: 
> This, of course, prompted a google search.  I couldn't find any reference 
> to 
> his racing a TR3, but I did discover that he raced a Volvo PV544, a Lotus 
> 11 
> and drove a Lancia Appia Zagato in the 12 hrs of Sebring in 1959.  The 
> only 
> TR3 reference I found was an occasion when a publicity photo was taken of 
> him in a TR3 receiving a ticket from a "bobby" (who was actually a Triumph 
> 
> executive in costume).  Apparently his wife asked him to find a more 
> family-oriented hobby, which caused him to take up sailing.  What an 
> accomplished guy!
> 

All this and he was a ham radio operator, too.  KB2GSD.

Dave
N0FEJ

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Jul 19 09:59:50 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:59:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Update on my project
In-Reply-To: <74D2F495-8F26-4BEF-BE2F-30F4F6D1D429@comcast.net>
References: <74D2F495-8F26-4BEF-BE2F-30F4F6D1D429@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F0699DCAAA7A4192BF13987C7A9A7F8D@CarlPC>

1961 TR3A - TS81802LO project is progressing.


Body work is complete - there will need to be some final finish work after 
powder coating but minimal.

Powder coating is underway.   Some images at: 
http://mysite.verizon.net/respk29i/id7.html

The color will be done Monday morning - first thing.  I can't wait to get it 
home. (Well I guess I'll have to)

Chassis is complete (more pictures to post)
Working on completing the engine & drive train.

Plenty of time to complete before next summer's NTC in Georgia.

Carl

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sun Jul 19 12:22:12 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:22:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <d5e.5293732a.37949535@cs.com>
References: <d5e.5293732a.37949535@cs.com>
Message-ID: <264863.97343.qm@web59710.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Some may find this link and utube video interesting,  "Walter Cronkite Race
Car Driver."
http://www2.ljworld.com/weblogs/marion/2009/jul/17/walter-cronkite-race-car-d
river/




________________________________
From: "Dave1massey at cs.com"
<Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: pethier at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:26:45 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Conkite

In a
message dated 7/17/2009 9:04:18 PM Central Daylight Time, 
pethier at comcast.net
writes: 
> I just heard that Triumph racer Walter Conkite has passed away at
92.
> 
Uncle Walt raced Triumphs?  I didn't know he even raced.

Dave
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

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From dlylis at gmail.com  Sun Jul 19 17:30:01 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 19:30:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Need piece of rubber boot seal
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907191630i592e851fpb8ba96cb8e688bfe@mail.gmail.com>

If anyone has a piece of rubber boot seal for a 1960 TR3A lying around I
would be most appreciative.  When I completed my TR3A I was left with a
piece about 20" long.  I am working on a project and this piece of rubber is
perfect, except I need two 14" pieces, and I only have one.  I can order the
whole thing from Moss but it is $30 plus shipping (and I only need 14").
TIA
David

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun Jul 19 19:09:19 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:09:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recovery Project
Message-ID: <FA38587EE87D48C7B82AF58DB0E579FC@Alan>

Finally , got my recovery project back together and am ready to paint it next
week.
This was a total I bought for the engine to put in my other car and decided to
save it.
I've been taking bodyshop 101, and now it time for paint class.

Al
http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 20:10:50 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 02:10:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

---- "Peter Fullam" <pfullam at nycap.rr.com> wrote:
> It was CBS who pulled the plug Walter Cronkite's racing. He had become
> too
> valuable to the network. Years later, he kept a TR6 at his summer
> place on
> Martha's Vineyard. There was talk of inviting him to the VTR meeting
> in
> Albany in 1996, but nothing came of it.
> 
> Pete F.

Which caused my wife to ask:  "Has anyone invited Jay Leno to bring his brother's TR3 to SLO for the VTR?"

Phil Ethier

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 19 20:44:21 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 22:44:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>

Now THAT would be cool!

Marty


Which caused my wife to ask:  "Has anyone invited Jay Leno to bring his
brother's TR3 to SLO for the VTR?"

 Phil Ethier


_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_ML
OGEN_Local_Local_Restaurants_1x1

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 19 21:03:27 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 20:03:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Jay brought his red TR3 to our local LA clubs meeting at the automotive
bookstore in Burbank CA. don't be surprised if he does turn up.
a genuinely
nice guy when it comes to cars. and now that he is done with the tonight show,
i would not be surprised to see him do some amateur racing locally.
look for
hi wearing a denim shirt and jeans. his usual attire.
not like im in his
circle of friends! laugh
frank fisher




________________________________
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: pethier at comcast.net;
pfullam at nycap.rr.com
Cc: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
p at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 7:44:21 PM
Subject: Re: [TR]
Walter Cronkite

Now THAT would be cool!

Marty


Which caused my wife to
ask:  "Has anyone invited Jay Leno to bring his
brother's TR3 to SLO for the
VTR?"

Phil Ethier
_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings
you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_ML
OGEN_Local_Local_Restaurants_1x1
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as
yellowtr3 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3a at comcast.net  Sun Jul 19 21:35:26 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 23:35:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>
	<862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>

Saw Pat Leno's beautiful red TR3A at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum's  
"Day of Triumph" show in Brookline MA a few years ago. Mass license  
plate says "OLD RED". Never did meet him, but I did want to talk to  
him about his car. Tried to find his phone number, but it was unlisted  
(a shock, I know). Found an address and wasn't sure it was his, but  
wrote anyway (surely you all remember snail mail). About a week later,  
my phone rang and it was Pat. Super nice guy and very helpful.

I didn't know he was Jay's brother, though I suspected they were  
related given the proximity. At the end of the 30 minute or so  
conversation, I finally asked.

Interesting that Frank mentions Jay's red TR3 in LA. Pretty sure the  
one I saw was Pat's, not Jay's. We even talked about where he had it  
painted, paint formulas etc. Who knows though. Can't imagine Jay's  
looking any better than this one.

On Jul 19, 2009, at 11:03 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

> Jay brought his red TR3 to our local LA clubs meeting at the  
> automotive
> bookstore in Burbank CA. don't be surprised if he does turn up.
> a genuinely
> nice guy when it comes to cars. and now that he is done with the  
> tonight show,
> i would not be surprised to see him do some amateur racing locally.
> look for
> hi wearing a denim shirt and jeans. his usual attire.
> not like im in his
> circle of friends! laugh
> frank fisher

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 19 21:42:27 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 22:42:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>
	<862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> 
	<4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W18A0500CA707519316AC0BE11D0@phx.gbl>

Didn't his brother die and he now has his brother's car?

I saw a old magazine yesterday with Jay and the car on the cover, did not take
time to re-read the article.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> From: tr3a at comcast.net
> To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 23:35:26 -0400
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Cronkite
>
> Saw Pat Leno's beautiful red TR3A at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum's
> "Day of Triumph" show in Brookline MA a few years ago. Mass license
> plate says "OLD RED". Never did meet him, but I did want to talk to
> him about his car. Tried to find his phone number, but it was unlisted
> (a shock, I know). Found an address and wasn't sure it was his, but
> wrote anyway (surely you all remember snail mail). About a week later,
> my phone rang and it was Pat. Super nice guy and very helpful.
>
> I didn't know he was Jay's brother, though I suspected they were
> related given the proximity. At the end of the 30 minute or so
> conversation, I finally asked.
>
> Interesting that Frank mentions Jay's red TR3 in LA. Pretty sure the
> one I saw was Pat's, not Jay's. We even talked about where he had it
> painted, paint formulas etc. Who knows though. Can't imagine Jay's
> looking any better than this one.
>
> On Jul 19, 2009, at 11:03 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>
> > Jay brought his red TR3 to our local LA clubs meeting at the
> > automotive
> > bookstore in Burbank CA. don't be surprised if he does turn up.
> > a genuinely
> > nice guy when it comes to cars. and now that he is done with the
> > tonight show,
> > i would not be surprised to see him do some amateur racing locally.
> > look for
> > hi wearing a denim shirt and jeans. his usual attire.
> > not like im in his
> > circle of friends! laugh
> > frank fisher
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jul 19 23:49:18 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 23:49:18 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W18A0500CA707519316AC0BE11D0@phx.gbl>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl><862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W18A0500CA707519316AC0BE11D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BF20CC5BD3EC40CEBC023B50BCF95C20@bboffice>

Masterpiece theater tonight was a "Miss Marple" mystery, toward the end of
the show one of the playboy-type characters shows up in a nice red TR3, gets
blown off by two pretty girls and rides happily off into the sunset holding
high a champagne glass!

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Jul 20 00:30:28 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 23:30:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W18A0500CA707519316AC0BE11D0@phx.gbl>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl><862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W18A0500CA707519316AC0BE11D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A20578A47B3047159D2773EE186A508C@joepentiumnew>

I just checked Lay Leno's Garage (web site) and it lists all the cars and
bikes in his collection.  Not a Triumph to be found!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:42 PM
To: TR owners List
Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Cronkite

Didn't his brother die and he now has his brother's car?

I saw a old magazine yesterday with Jay and the car on the cover, did not
take
time to re-read the article.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> From: tr3a at comcast.net
> To: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com
> Date: Sun, 19 Jul 2009 23:35:26 -0400
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Cronkite
>
> Saw Pat Leno's beautiful red TR3A at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum's
> "Day of Triumph" show in Brookline MA a few years ago. Mass license
> plate says "OLD RED". Never did meet him, but I did want to talk to
> him about his car. Tried to find his phone number, but it was unlisted
> (a shock, I know). Found an address and wasn't sure it was his, but
> wrote anyway (surely you all remember snail mail). About a week later,
> my phone rang and it was Pat. Super nice guy and very helpful.
>
> I didn't know he was Jay's brother, though I suspected they were
> related given the proximity. At the end of the 30 minute or so
> conversation, I finally asked.
>
> Interesting that Frank mentions Jay's red TR3 in LA. Pretty sure the
> one I saw was Pat's, not Jay's. We even talked about where he had it
> painted, paint formulas etc. Who knows though. Can't imagine Jay's
> looking any better than this one.
>
> On Jul 19, 2009, at 11:03 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>
> > Jay brought his red TR3 to our local LA clubs meeting at the
> > automotive
> > bookstore in Burbank CA. don't be surprised if he does turn up.
> > a genuinely
> > nice guy when it comes to cars. and now that he is done with the
> > tonight show,
> > i would not be surprised to see him do some amateur racing locally.
> > look for
> > hi wearing a denim shirt and jeans. his usual attire.
> > not like im in his
> > circle of friends! laugh
> > frank fisher
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 20 05:53:18 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:53:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
Message-ID: <c54.52064dca.3795b4ae@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/20/2009 12:49:54 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech at flash.net writes: 
> Masterpiece theater tonight was a "Miss Marple" mystery, toward the end 
> of
> the show one of the playboy-type characters shows up in a nice red TR3, 
> gets
> blown off by two pretty girls and rides happily off into the sunset 
> holding
> high a champagne glass!
> 
I'm a little confused about the time setting of the story.  Earlier on 
there was a ledger (or piece thereof) dated 1953 but the TR3 had door handles 
dating it as 1958 at the earliest.  But then, I only caught the last half 
hour.

Dave

From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 06:42:05 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:42:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Need piece of rubber boot seal
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60907191630i592e851fpb8ba96cb8e688bfe@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2a7657b60907191630i592e851fpb8ba96cb8e688bfe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907200542j59b69b78n67dee55b5e21e930@mail.gmail.com>

I have included a link to a picture of the rubber boot seal that I had
inquired about.  I need two 14" pieces and I have one.
http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/P7201260.jpg



On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 7:30 PM, David Lylis <dlylis at gmail.com> wrote:

> If anyone has a piece of rubber boot seal for a 1960 TR3A lying around I
> would be most appreciative.  When I completed my TR3A I was left with a
> piece about 20" long.  I am working on a project and this piece of rubber is
> perfect, except I need two 14" pieces, and I only have one.  I can order the
> whole thing from Moss but it is $30 plus shipping (and I only need 14").
> TIA
> David

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 20 07:21:25 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:21:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
References: <c54.52064dca.3795b4ae@cs.com>
Message-ID: <40B4FB864ABA4FF6A3164EBB944A6D89@ranteer.local>

was it a 3 or 3a? door handles were available on the 3 as an upgrade; like a 
rally kit or something which included a hard top???

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 6:53 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater


> In a message dated 7/20/2009 12:49:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
> wbeech at flash.net writes:
>> Masterpiece theater tonight was a "Miss Marple" mystery, toward the end
>> of
>> the show one of the playboy-type characters shows up in a nice red TR3,
>> gets
>> blown off by two pretty girls and rides happily off into the sunset
>> holding
>> high a champagne glass!
>>
> I'm a little confused about the time setting of the story.  Earlier on
> there was a ledger (or piece thereof) dated 1953 but the TR3 had door 
> handles
> dating it as 1958 at the earliest.  But then, I only caught the last half
> hour.
>
> Dave 

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 20 08:11:52 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:11:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] shorting out
Message-ID: <944313.6918.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

 maybe someone can help me out the dist keeps on shorting out ,when i turn on
the key i get power to the coil then when i touch the terminal to the points
it shorts out i cleaned the points where to now

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Jul 20 08:26:29 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:26:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
In-Reply-To: <40B4FB864ABA4FF6A3164EBB944A6D89@ranteer.local>
References: <c54.52064dca.3795b4ae@cs.com>
	<40B4FB864ABA4FF6A3164EBB944A6D89@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <0911BE2839DE44F8A7DA2E2DFE667B12@bboffice>

Never saw the front, only noticed the handles on the dor and boot. 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 7:21 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater

was it a 3 or 3a? door handles were available on the 3 as an upgrade; like a
rally kit or something which included a hard top???

----- Original Message -----
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 6:53 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater


> In a message dated 7/20/2009 12:49:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
> wbeech at flash.net writes:
>> Masterpiece theater tonight was a "Miss Marple" mystery, toward the end
>> of
>> the show one of the playboy-type characters shows up in a nice red TR3,
>> gets
>> blown off by two pretty girls and rides happily off into the sunset
>> holding
>> high a champagne glass!
>>
> I'm a little confused about the time setting of the story.  Earlier on
> there was a ledger (or piece thereof) dated 1953 but the TR3 had door 
> handles
> dating it as 1958 at the earliest.  But then, I only caught the last half
> hour.
>
> Dave 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Jul 20 08:40:26 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:40:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts
Message-ID: <192734.45142.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Judging by the lack of response (none), I think that I am in real trouble
on this. Surely someone else has had this! How did you do it?
     My backup plan is that maybe I can cut off the bolt head and then drill
out the bolt shank, which will destroy the caged nut and then put in a longer
bolt with a regular nut on the end of it.
     Does anyone else have a better idea? This SOB bolt has me talking in my
sleep.

     Bill in Tehachapi

--- On Sat, 7/18/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 18, 2009, 1:55 PM

     I am removing my windshield frame on my 74 TR6 for painting. I got the
center windshield support bracket bolt loosened and then it spun in the caged
nut. This is the caged nut that is located above the heater and behind the
fresh air vent. I don't see any good way to get to it. I plan to remove the
heater and try to grab it (the nut cage) with vice grips. The bolt was
previously soaked with Kroil to loosen it up, but I guess it had been getting
moisture from the fresh air vent and really rusted up. After getting the nut
loose, I plan to try to hold the nut back in with epoxy so it won't spin in
the already damaged nut cage and then re-assemble it with a new bolt and
 anti-seize.      Other ideas include hack sawing the head of the bolt off
which will allow me to get the windshield frame off, and then drilling
 the
bolt shank out, epoxying in the nut in the cage and re-threading the caged
nut.
     Has anyone else ran across this and how did you get out of it?     Man,
this all looked straight forward when I started.      TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 08:44:24 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:44:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] shorting out
In-Reply-To: <944313.6918.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090720144424864.NED5000@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

>  maybe someone can help me out the dist keeps on shorting out ,when i turn
> on
> the key i get power to the coil then when i touch the terminal to the
> points
> it shorts out i cleaned the points where to now

Not sure what you mean here "John".  Are you sure the points are open?  If
so, you need to find where the short is.

By far the most common problem is incorrect assembly ... the wire goes
_under_ the plastic top-hat thingy.

Randall

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Jul 20 08:46:13 2009
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 07:46:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] non-TR, but...
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F101B7161@kb1.mossmotors.com>

We're hearing a lot today about big splashy memorial services.

I want a nationwide memorial service for Darrell "Shifty" Powers.

Shifty volunteered for the airborne in WWII and served with Easy Company
of the 506Th Parachute Infantry Regiment, part of the 101st Airborne
Infantry. If you've seen Band of Brothers on HBO or the History Channel,
you know Shifty. His character appears in all 10 episodes, and Shifty
himself is interviewed in several of them.  a genuine war hero

Shifty died on June 17, 2009 after fighting cancer.

There was no parade.

No big event in Staples Center .

No wall to wall back to back 24x7 news coverage.

No weeping fans on television.

And that's not right.

Let's give Shifty his own Memorial Service, online, in our own quiet
way. Please forward this email to everyone you know. Especially to the
veterans.


Peter Arakelian

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Jul 20 10:35:03 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:35:03 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
References: <c54.52064dca.3795b4ae@cs.com>
Message-ID: <776257CD042B4472871E9BCF119A69BB@Study>

>gets
> blown off by two pretty girls and rides happily off into the sunset
> holding
> high a champagne glass!

It might be that the Triumph connection is slightly tenuous in which case I 
apologise to the list, but I would be intrigued to know what exactly "blown 
off by two pretty girls" means  on the western side of the pond? In UK you 
have to go to special cinemas to see films like that!

Perhaps enlightenment may come from an American philologolist?

Enquiring minds........ect.

David Brister
1967 TR4A.


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 23332 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 10:47:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 09:47:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
In-Reply-To: <776257CD042B4472871E9BCF119A69BB@Study>
References: <c54.52064dca.3795b4ae@cs.com>
	<776257CD042B4472871E9BCF119A69BB@Study>
Message-ID: <03B1429508824C2F86DCCBB4FE6B65CE@jdnet.deere.com>

> I would be intrigued to know what exactly
> "blown off by two pretty girls" means  on the western side of the pond?

The addition of the word "off" changes the meaning entirely.
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=blown+off

I'm not certain, but this phrase may have originated from an automotive
phrase : "to get one's doors blown off" means to be passed at a high rate of
speed, during a speed contest (implying so fast that the suction pulls the
doors off).  Meaning of course that the car/driver getting "blown off" was
never a serious contender.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 10:49:55 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 09:49:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Need piece of rubber boot seal
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60907200542j59b69b78n67dee55b5e21e930@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2a7657b60907191630i592e851fpb8ba96cb8e688bfe@mail.gmail.com>
	<2a7657b60907200542j59b69b78n67dee55b5e21e930@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <26B2548CBE3E494A8C656F7EA777B648@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have included a link to a picture of the rubber boot seal that I had
> inquired about.  I need two 14" pieces and I have one.
> http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/P7201260.jpg

Strange.  My cars have all been pre-60K, so my seals are different.  But
aren't the later seals supposed to grip a flat edge of metal?  David's photo
shows it gaping open, which certainly wouldn't grip very well ...

-- Randall 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 20 11:11:16 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:11:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
Message-ID: <c21.52339051.3795ff34@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/20/2009 8:21:57 AM Central Daylight Time, 
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: 
> was it a 3 or 3a? door handles were available on the 3 as an upgrade; 
> like a 
> rally kit or something which included a hard top???
> 
Perhaps, but neither one was available in 1953.

I'd have to look again but I thought that in profile the front looked wide 
mouth-ish.  Of course it was but a brief glimpse.

Dave

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 20 11:17:30 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:17:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
Message-ID: <bed.44fa7fba.379600aa@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/20/2009 9:26:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wbeech at flash.net writes: 
> Never saw the front, only noticed the handles on the dor and boot. 
> 
I didn't notice the handle on the boot but that is a give-away, isn't it?

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 20 11:30:16 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:30:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts
Message-ID: <c99.4f1554e7.379603a8@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/20/2009 9:40:33 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: 
>      Judging by the lack of response (none), I think that I am in real 
> trouble
> on this. Surely someone else has had this! How did you do it?
>      My backup plan is that maybe I can cut off the bolt head and then 
> drill
> out the bolt shank, which will destroy the caged nut and then put in a 
> longer
> bolt with a regular nut on the end of it.
>      Does anyone else have a better idea? This SOB bolt has me talking in 
> my
> sleep.
> 
Bill, I recall that you were going to remove the heater and clamp onto the 
nut with Vice Grips or something.  I can't come up with anything better.  
I've done that with fender bolts on my TR3 with pretty good results.

As for drilling it out, how are you going to do that if it is spinning?  I 
guess you could clamp onto it with vice grips but then you may as well try 
to back it out.  Soak it really thoroughly with Kroil or PB Blaster and wire 
brush the end of the bolt as best you can to improve the odds of getting it 
out.

Dave

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Mon Jul 20 11:49:04 2009
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:49:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Zenith-Stromberg autochoke problem
Message-ID: <web-49500354@mail.presby.edu>

I've been working hard this summer to get my 1980 Spitfire 
back on the road, but there have been a number of 
obstacles: brakes, gas tank, frayed wires, and now the 
carb (I think).
The original carb symptom was an alternation from no 
firing to catching and racing and back again, over and 
over.  I checked the diaphragm and found that it was 
brittle and had torn in two places.  No problem; I had a 
replacement.  I was surprised that that didn't completely 
fix the problem.  Since then I have: rechecked that the 
diaphragm is seated properly (3 times), replaced the air 
filter and fuel filter, cleaned and recalibrated the carb 
anti-backfire valve and replaced gasket, replaced needle 
valve in float chamber and checked float height, opened 
and checked carbon canister and checked anti-run-on valve, 
checked fuel pump, checked vacuum and looked for leaks at 
intake manifold and tightened bolts, cleaned small 
passageways in carb with wire, checked that the metering 
needle on the air piston is secured in the right position, 
checked that the damper works (oil, free movement but with 
resistance).  On the autochoke I recalibrated the bimetal 
spring, made sure that the lever moves easily and allows 
the vacuum piston and needle to operate, replaced the tiny 
o-ring on the needle, checked that the stepped cam moves 
properly with changes in the bimetal spring and that the 
choke adjustment pin rests on the cam.  The only thing I 
haven't been able to fix or replace is the vacuum retard 
unit on the distributor, but most on the list don't seem 
to think this is a problem.  I have plugged the vacuum 
line that used to serve that unit.
I have tuned the thing over and over again, and I am 
pretty sure everything is okay (timing, mixture, fast idle 
screw, and throttle stop screw).  Here is what happens. 
 The cold engine starts easily and idles where it should. 
 I have set that with the lower, spring loaded, fast idle 
screw to anywhere from 1500 to 1800 rpm.  As the 
temperature rises and I pull on the throttle cable 
periodically, the rpms go down fine.  Then, when it 
reaches about 1200 rpm, the problem of stopping and 
catching begins.  The engine never stalls out completely, 
but it sounds as if it will on every cycle.  With further 
temperature rise, the rpms step down again and the problem 
disappears.  By adjusting the upper, throttle stop screw I 
can get a nice steady idle at 800 rpm.  Everything seems 
great at this point, but if I pull the throttle cable just 
a little, to get the rpms up to about 1200, the cycling 
begins again.  If I just give it gas quickly, to get above 
1200 rpms, it runs fine though I haven't taken it out for 
a drive.
So my question is, what do I look at next to figure why it 
doesn't like to run at 1200 rpms?  Is it possible that the 
centrifugal advance mechanism in the distributor could 
cause this kind of problem?  I'm pretty much at a loss 
right now.  Thanks for any advice.

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1980 Spitfire
1976 TR6

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 20 11:47:47 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:47:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
Message-ID: <d06.5a3428c5.379607c3@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/20/2009 11:35:26 AM Central Daylight Time, 
david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: 
> It might be that the Triumph connection is slightly tenuous in which case 
> I 
> apologise to the list, but I would be intrigued to know what exactly 
> "blown 
> off by two pretty girls" means  on the western side of the pond? In UK you 
> 
> have to go to special cinemas to see films like that!
> 
> 
Ah, the pitfalls of using slang ("highly informal speech that is outside 
conventual or standard usage..." Webster's New World).  It tends to illustrate 
the old saw about two people separated by a common language.

Well, don't get your knickers in a twist, no one is trying to take the 
piss.

Dave

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 12:13:33 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:13:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
In-Reply-To: <d06.5a3428c5.379607c3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <312417022.3434581248113613703.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

In the USA, to "blow off" someone or something is to snub or ignore them.  No sexual subcontext.

I blew off the first Amery Airport autocross and speed run to take the TR4 to the Back to the Fifties Weekend.


Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 12:47:47 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 sighting on Masterpiece Theater
>
> In a message dated 7/20/2009 11:35:26 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: 
> > It might be that the Triumph connection is slightly tenuous in which
> case 
> > I 
> > apologise to the list, but I would be intrigued to know what exactly
> 
> > "blown 
> > off by two pretty girls" means  on the western side of the pond? In
> UK you 
> > 
> > have to go to special cinemas to see films like that!
> > 
> > 
> Ah, the pitfalls of using slang ("highly informal speech that is
> outside 
> conventual or standard usage..." Webster's New World).  It tends to
> illustrate 
> the old saw about two people separated by a common language.
> 
> Well, don't get your knickers in a twist, no one is trying to take the
> 
> piss.
> 
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 12:17:49 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:17:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts
In-Reply-To: <c99.4f1554e7.379603a8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1877043233.3437031248113869233.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

If you do drill it, use a left-handed drill (don't forget to put your drill motor in reverse).

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 12:30:16 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts
>
> In a message dated 7/20/2009 9:40:33 AM Central Daylight Time, 
> wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes: 
> >      Judging by the lack of response (none), I think that I am in
> real 
> > trouble
> > on this. Surely someone else has had this! How did you do it?
> >      My backup plan is that maybe I can cut off the bolt head and
> then 
> > drill
> > out the bolt shank, which will destroy the caged nut and then put in
> a 
> > longer
> > bolt with a regular nut on the end of it.
> >      Does anyone else have a better idea? This SOB bolt has me
> talking in 
> > my
> > sleep.
> > 
> Bill, I recall that you were going to remove the heater and clamp onto
> the 
> nut with Vice Grips or something.  I can't come up with anything
> better.  
> I've done that with fender bolts on my TR3 with pretty good results.
> 
> As for drilling it out, how are you going to do that if it is
> spinning?  I 
> guess you could clamp onto it with vice grips but then you may as well
> try 
> to back it out.  Soak it really thoroughly with Kroil or PB Blaster
> and wire 
> brush the end of the bolt as best you can to improve the odds of
> getting it 
> out.
> 
> Dave

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 20 12:39:49 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 11:39:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>
	<862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <586599.84504.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Michael
i don't know as a fact, but from what i hear, Pat has passed and Jay
inherited the car. i hear that its a special car for Jay.
Frank
To:
Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Cc: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:35:26 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] Walter Cronkite

Saw Pat Leno's beautiful red TR3A at the Larz Anderson
Auto Museum's "Day of Triumph" show in Brookline MA a few years ago. Mass
license plate says "OLD RED". Never did meet him, but I did want to talk to
him about his car. Tried to find his phone number, but it was unlisted (a
shock, I know). Found an address and wasn't sure it was his, but wrote anyway
(surely you all remember snail mail). About a week later, my phone rang and it
was Pat. Super nice guy and very helpful..  

I didn't know he was Jay's
brother, though I suspected they were related given the proximity. At the end
of the 30 minute or so conversation, I finally asked. 

Interesting that Frank
mentions Jay's red TR3 in LA. Pretty sure the one I saw was Pat's, not Jay's.
We even talked about where he had it painted, paint formulas etc. Who knows
though. Can't imagine Jay's looking any better than this one.


On Jul 19,
2009, at 11:03 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

Jay brought his red TR3 to our local
LA clubs meeting at the automotive
>bookstore in Burbank CA. don't be
surprised if he does turn up.
>a genuinely
>nice guy when it comes to cars.
and now that he is done with the tonight show,
>i would not be surprised to
see him do some amateur racing locally.
>look for
>hi wearing a denim shirt
and jeans. his usual attire.
>not like im in his
>circle of friends! laugh
>frank fisher

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 20 13:10:27 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:10:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Zenith-Stromberg autochoke problem
In-Reply-To: <web-49500354@mail.presby.edu>
References: <web-49500354@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <F9E493AE05DC4C29810F1EB336F90233@jdnet.deere.com>

Tim,

Check the wires inside the distributor.  Unfasten one end and check for
continuity while tugging on the wire and flexing it.  Also inspect the
insulation carefully, for any place that could rub and ground the conductor.

Your description sounds rather similar to a problem I had many years ago, on
a non-LBC where the wires to the electronic ignition conversion had been led
through the same hole as the vacuum advance.  The advance rod had rubbed
through the insulation, and would ground one wire only when the advance was
in a particular location.

-- Randall 

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Mon Jul 20 13:30:52 2009
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 15:30:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts
In-Reply-To: <192734.45142.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <192734.45142.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CBD787BA54753C-14D0-63A@WEBMAIL-DZ07.sysops.aol.com>

 Bill,

This is the only idea that I have and it might not be a good one but since you sound desperate....

Hopefully you have been able to apply a fresh application of PB Blaster, or other suitable lubricant.? You might be able to pry up on the bolt head, pinching the nut below enough to get it to be held in place with friction as you turn the exposed bolt head.? Worth a try as long as you can protect the dash whilst you are attempting it.? The only other solutions I can think of you have mentioned, either cutting the bolt head off or pulling apart however much dash you need in order to reach everything from behind.? Either way....yuck!

Aaron


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 20, 2009 10:40 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts










     Judging by the lack of response (none), I think that I am in real trouble
on this. Surely someone else has had this! How did you do it?
     My backup plan is that maybe I can cut off the bolt head and then drill
out the bolt shank, which will destroy the caged nut and then put in a longer
bolt with a regular nut on the end of it.
     Does anyone else have a better idea? This SOB bolt has me talking in my
sleep.

     Bill in Tehachapi

--- On Sat, 7/18/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: Damn! TR6 Windshield Bracket Bolts
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, July 18, 2009, 1:55 PM

     I am removing my windshield frame on my 74 TR6 for painting. I got the
center windshield support bracket bolt loosened and then it spun in the caged
nut. This is the caged nut that is located above the heater and behind the
fresh air vent. I don't see any good way to get to it. I plan to remove the
heater and try to grab it (the nut cage) with vice grips. The bolt was
previously soaked with Kroil to loosen it up, but I guess it had been getting
moisture from the fresh air vent and really rusted up. After getting the nut
loose, I plan to try to hold the nut back in with epoxy so it won't spin in
the already damaged nut cage and then re-assemble it with a new bolt and
 anti-seize.      Other ideas include hack sawing the head of the bolt off
which will allow me to get the windshield frame off, and then drilling
 the
bolt shank out, epoxying in the nut in the cage and re-threading the caged
nut.
     Has anyone else ran across this and how did you get out of it?     Man,
this all looked straight forward when I started.      TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 16:07:27 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:07:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Need piece of rubber boot seal
In-Reply-To: <26B2548CBE3E494A8C656F7EA777B648@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <2a7657b60907191630i592e851fpb8ba96cb8e688bfe@mail.gmail.com>
	<2a7657b60907200542j59b69b78n67dee55b5e21e930@mail.gmail.com>
	<26B2548CBE3E494A8C656F7EA777B648@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60907201507o212ee959vfffad798675eb03e@mail.gmail.com>

"which certainly wouldn't grip very well"
Ah yes, an apt description of the process.  I have glued it in place but
painting contact adhesive in that little V is a real pain in the butt.
It is supposed to grip a flat edge but my car was missing the original and I
thought the aftermarket was a reproduction.  It is tough when you don't know
what you don't know.  The gripper one Joe describes sounds perfect for my
application.

On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 12:49 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I have included a link to a picture of the rubber boot seal that I had
> > inquired about.  I need two 14" pieces and I have one.
> > http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/P7201260.jpg
>
> Strange.  My cars have all been pre-60K, so my seals are different.  But
> aren't the later seals supposed to grip a flat edge of metal?  David's
> photo
> shows it gaping open, which certainly wouldn't grip very well ...
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Jul 20 16:25:44 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:25:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite now Jay Leno
In-Reply-To: <642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1E53C706E6C944F7B68951F7ABA0A2A6@CarlPC>

A request was sent to the Tonight show back in March about pre-event 
publicity as well as a suggestion/request for an appearance.   Whether the 
email was even considered is another issue.

and now that Jay has another show scheduled for the fall - who knows.

Regarding the Red TR - it was his brother's which Jay inherited.  It had at 
one time a mail-list or VTR decal on it - but that could have changed since 
then (you can see it on the cover of the magazine referenced in one of the 
recent emails)

C



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "Peter Fullam" <pfullam at nycap.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <P at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Cronkite


> ---- "Peter Fullam" <pfullam at nycap.rr.com> wrote:
>> It was CBS who pulled the plug Walter Cronkite's racing. He had become
>> too
>> valuable to the network. Years later, he kept a TR6 at his summer
>> place on
>> Martha's Vineyard. There was talk of inviting him to the VTR meeting
>> in
>> Albany in 1996, but nothing came of it.
>>
>> Pete F.
>
> Which caused my wife to ask:  "Has anyone invited Jay Leno to bring his 
> brother's TR3 to SLO for the VTR?"
>
> Phil Ethier
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3a at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 16:40:04 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:40:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite
In-Reply-To: <586599.84504.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>
	<862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
	<586599.84504.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D29CC4CF-C9F5-4822-8211-4CAEE3E43B47@comcast.net>

I did a little searching and it appears that Pat Leno passed away in  
2002. I can't recall when I spoke with him, but it couldn't have been  
much earlier than that. I have a few pics of the car and while I don't  
know anything about that tinyurl thing - or any other way to post them  
here - if anyone is willing to help me, I will scan them and send them  
to whoever is willing to post. It really is a beautiful car.... red  
with black trim and chrome wires.

On Jul 20, 2009, at 2:39 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:

>
> Michael
> i don't know as a fact, but from what i hear, Pat has passed and Jay  
> inherited the car. i hear that its a special car for Jay.
> Frank
> From: Michael Ferguson <tr3a at comcast.net>
> To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
> Cc: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:35:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Cronkite
>
> Saw Pat Leno's beautiful red TR3A at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum's  
> "Day of Triumph" show in Brookline MA a few years ago. Mass license  
> plate says "OLD RED". Never did meet him, but I did want to talk to  
> him about his car. Tried to find his phone number, but it was  
> unlisted (a shock, I know). Found an address and wasn't sure it was  
> his, but wrote anyway (surely you all remember snail mail). About a  
> week later, my phone rang and it was Pat. Super nice guy and very  
> helpful.
>
> I didn't know he was Jay's brother, though I suspected they were  
> related given the proximity. At the end of the 30 minute or so  
> conversation, I finally asked.
>
> Interesting that Frank mentions Jay's red TR3 in LA. Pretty sure the  
> one I saw was Pat's, not Jay's. We even talked about where he had it  
> painted, paint formulas etc. Who knows though. Can't imagine Jay's  
> looking any better than this one.
>
> On Jul 19, 2009, at 11:03 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>
>> Jay brought his red TR3 to our local LA clubs meeting at the  
>> automotive
>> bookstore in Burbank CA. don't be surprised if he does turn up.
>> a genuinely
>> nice guy when it comes to cars. and now that he is done with the  
>> tonight show,
>> i would not be surprised to see him do some amateur racing locally.
>> look for
>> hi wearing a denim shirt and jeans. his usual attire.
>> not like im in his
>> circle of friends! laugh
>> frank fisher

From allegrorover at mac.com  Mon Jul 20 16:59:04 2009
From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:59:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] non-TR, but...
In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F101B7161@kb1.mossmotors.com>
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F101B7161@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <E2C09108-02D7-4321-952D-C7C50C12A49F@mac.com>

I had a long letter drafted in reply to this, but I thought better of  
it.
But I will say I agree with you.
I know the list does not want to get into this kind of stuff, and I  
agree with that as well.....


Tony Cascio
58 TR3A
TS27093L
allegrorover at mac.com

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Jul 20 17:00:57 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 19:00:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Recovery Project
References: <FA38587EE87D48C7B82AF58DB0E579FC@Alan>
	<167189.246.qm@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1F9AAA5A85B14A19A5B5C8414C53B4A5@Alan>

Hi Pat,

I am going to paint it the original Saphire Blue, thats the stock steering
wheel.
I may put the Dealer add on stripes on the side.
I have a two sets:  red  and silver, have to decide which one.
Motor has been bored out 20 over, new pistons, aluminum fly wheel.
Compression raised to 9:1.
Interior will have parchment seats w/ shadow blue trim, to match the existing
shadow blue interior and new shadow blue carpet.

Al
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: P Caffrey
  To: Al Salvatore
  Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 11:37 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Recovery Project


  Hi Al,
  The pics look great!  Is that a Molita steering wheel I see, (maybe not)?
Just wondering what up-grades you're installing on the engine, etc.  And the
color--Are you going for BRG?
  Pat


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  From: Al Salvatore <tr6parts at charter.net>
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 6:09:19 PM
  Subject: [TR] Recovery Project

  Finally , got my recovery project back together and am ready to paint it
next
  week.
  This was a total I bought for the engine to put in my other car and decided
to
  save it.
  I've been taking bodyshop 101, and now it time for paint class.

  Al
  http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/
  _______________________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jul 20 19:05:57 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 20:05:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] amarillo
References: <20090104211910.XUQQ13015.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <37DA99B7CE114D7EA4535E38E4DEA7EC@ranteer.local>

do we have any listers in the amarillo area??

please contact me offline

thanks.

dave northrup
red river triumph club

From tartanredmgb at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 20:01:15 2009
From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 19:01:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] anyone in the Charlotte NC area?
Message-ID: <b6464ee40907201901n476f2633v86fdea146ecd02eb@mail.gmail.com>

I could use a hand- need someone to take a gander at a TR4 for me that
is at a classic car dealer there.  Could pay a bit for your time and
trouble.

From tr3a at comcast.net  Mon Jul 20 20:17:29 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 22:17:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite (Now Pat Leno's TR)
In-Reply-To: <D29CC4CF-C9F5-4822-8211-4CAEE3E43B47@comcast.net>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>
	<862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
	<586599.84504.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<D29CC4CF-C9F5-4822-8211-4CAEE3E43B47@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A2E43335-7409-4530-AD19-5FAEBE8CCB81@comcast.net>

Ok, here ya go, guys. I thought I had more, but three pics of Pat's  
car (now Jay's, it sounds like) are all I could find.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/michael47/sets/72157621629124489/


On Jul 20, 2009, at 6:40 PM, Michael Ferguson wrote:

> I did a little searching and it appears that Pat Leno passed away in
> 2002. I can't recall when I spoke with him, but it couldn't have been
> much earlier than that. I have a few pics of the car and while I don't
> know anything about that tinyurl thing - or any other way to post them
> here - if anyone is willing to help me, I will scan them and send them
> to whoever is willing to post. It really is a beautiful car.... red
> with black trim and chrome wires.
>
> On Jul 20, 2009, at 2:39 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>
>>
>> Michael
>> i don't know as a fact, but from what i hear, Pat has passed and Jay
>> inherited the car. i hear that its a special car for Jay.
>> Frank
>> From: Michael Ferguson <tr3a at comcast.net>
>> To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
>> Cc: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>; triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Sent: Sunday, July 19, 2009 8:35:26 PM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Walter Cronkite
>>
>> Saw Pat Leno's beautiful red TR3A at the Larz Anderson Auto Museum's
>> "Day of Triumph" show in Brookline MA a few years ago. Mass license
>> plate says "OLD RED". Never did meet him, but I did want to talk to
>> him about his car. Tried to find his phone number, but it was
>> unlisted (a shock, I know). Found an address and wasn't sure it was
>> his, but wrote anyway (surely you all remember snail mail). About a
>> week later, my phone rang and it was Pat. Super nice guy and very
>> helpful.
>>
>> I didn't know he was Jay's brother, though I suspected they were
>> related given the proximity. At the end of the 30 minute or so
>> conversation, I finally asked.
>>
>> Interesting that Frank mentions Jay's red TR3 in LA. Pretty sure the
>> one I saw was Pat's, not Jay's. We even talked about where he had it
>> painted, paint formulas etc. Who knows though. Can't imagine Jay's
>> looking any better than this one.
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2009, at 11:03 PM, Frank Fisher wrote:
>>
>>> Jay brought his red TR3 to our local LA clubs meeting at the
>>> automotive
>>> bookstore in Burbank CA. don't be surprised if he does turn up.
>>> a genuinely
>>> nice guy when it comes to cars. and now that he is done with the
>>> tonight show,
>>> i would not be surprised to see him do some amateur racing locally.
>>> look for
>>> hi wearing a denim shirt and jeans. his usual attire.
>>> not like im in his
>>> circle of friends! laugh
>>> frank fisher
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Jul 20 22:21:16 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 00:21:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Zenith-Stromberg autochoke problem
In-Reply-To: <web-49500354@mail.presby.edu>
Message-ID: <4A6509FC.2507.2B2591E4@localhost>

On 20 Jul 2009 at 13:49, Tim Gaines wrote that he had an autochoke 
problem.

Me too.  Ever seen an autochoke plant?  I've never understood the 
mentality of the guy who had the courage to eat the first one, let 
alone why he bothered to eat the second one.  Nevertheless they grow 
'em by the zillions in California because they know folks back east 
will eat anything.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Tue Jul 21 04:21:11 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 12:21:11 +0200
Subject: [TR] Diff seals TR4A
Message-ID: <32C837C5085C4A38B9D6B75939775788@Study>

I made a jig with a iron bar, it worked perfectly so all three 100ft/lb nuts 
are
off. I took the cover off the back of the diff and inspected the gears
inside. They are all fine except for one planet wheel where there are signs
that the case hardening on two of the teeth are beginning to break up. I 
don't really want to get
into the complexities of rebuilding the diff, nor do I want to pay some
local mechanic the outrageous price he would undoubtedly demand. It seems to
me that the planet wheels only go round when the diff is active i.e. at
normal driving the planet wheels don't revolve very much. In which case
could I expect the diff to last a long time yet given only the modest miles
and gentle driving that my advanced years now permit?

In Haynes page 170 para 15.6 it says "carefully withdraw the inner axle
shaft assembly ect". I have found the bearing retainer very reluctant to
come out together with the inner axle assembly after removing the 4 nuts.
Does this just need more pulling out force?


 ATB

David B.


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 23382 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Tue Jul 21 05:57:38 2009
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:57:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite now Jay Leno
Message-ID: <ce8.59ddb952.37970732@aol.com>

I recently saw an episode of Dennis Gage's "My Classic Car" when he visited 
 Jay's garage, and there was a red TR3 clearly visible in the background of 
 one scene.
 
Eric
 
< I just checked Lay Leno's Garage (web site) and it lists all the cars  and
< bikes in his collection.  Not a Triumph to be  found!


**************What's for dinner tonight?  Find quick and easy dinner ideas 
for any occasion. 
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?ncid=emlcntusfood00000009)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 21 06:51:17 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 07:51:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] John MacCartney and the TTAC
Message-ID: <3FDEE1B428B54ACD8D4C2E448311875E@ranteer.local>

is anyone from the western states (and i use that term loosely) that could
meet John in Amarillo on Monday August 17 and drive up toward Colorado with
him?  or any part of that?  He'll be going from DFW to Amarillo to Denver.

i'm just trying to find him an escort.

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 21 08:39:33 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 09:39:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite now Jay Leno
Message-ID: <BAY123-W7D86A21C0452D005D1B2DE11A0@phx.gbl>

I did not see this come through the list yesterday.
If it is a double post, please delete it.

Here is the thread I was thinking of

http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/triumphs/2006-11/msg00183.html

I have the issue they are talking about in the thread.  It does not say
anything about Jay
having a TR3, but does show him sitting in a red one on the cover.

Here is another thread
http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/triumphs/2006-09/msg00357.html

Joe,
I do not mean this as a "I told you so" or anything of that type.  He may very
welll not have it any more or maybe it is very personal and thus not listed on
his site.


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 21 11:19:39 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 10:19:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Diff seals TR4A
In-Reply-To: <32C837C5085C4A38B9D6B75939775788@Study>
References: <32C837C5085C4A38B9D6B75939775788@Study>
Message-ID: <BB1903FFC716446EA0BC9733396AFC29@jdnet.deere.com>

> I don't really want to get
> into the complexities of rebuilding the diff,

While I don't blame you, I just want to point out that only replacing that
gear would be significantly easier than a proper rebuild.  The pinion would
not need to be disturbed at all; and since the carrier bearings would not be
changed, there would be no need to disturb the cones or shims for them.
Since the shims and bearings all remain the same, no need to check
clearances, preloads or tooth patterns.  The job is basically reduced to
popping the carrier out, driving out the retaining pin, pushing out the
cross shaft and collecting the gears and washers.  Then reverse the process
using new gears and thrust washers.  Although a spreader as the book shows
would undoubtedly be easier, it is possible to pry the carrier out and tap
it back in without the spreader.

> In which case
> could I expect the diff to last a long time yet given only the modest
> miles
> and gentle driving that my advanced years now permit?

Perhaps.  But the planet gears still have to handle the forces involved,
even when they are not turning relative to the carrier.  I think it's
unlikely you are actually seeing normal wear, more likely the surface has
spalled because it could not handle the applied load.  IMO the problem can
only get worse once the hardened layer has started to break away.  And
unless you drive only in a very straight line, sooner or later the damaged
area will come into play again.

> In Haynes page 170 para 15.6 it says "carefully withdraw the inner axle
> shaft assembly ect". I have found the bearing retainer very reluctant to
> come out together with the inner axle assembly after removing the 4 nuts.
> Does this just need more pulling out force?

There's an old joke in there somewhere, about British instructions.  On the
Stag, they came out with only some modest persuasion with a brass hammer
applied to the flange.

-- Randall 

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Tue Jul 21 14:14:24 2009
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 16:14:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Zenith-Stromberg autochoke problem
In-Reply-To: <4A6509FC.2507.2B2591E4@localhost>
References: <4A6509FC.2507.2B2591E4@localhost>
Message-ID: <web-49547094@mail.presby.edu>

Yeah, and of course they don't keep well either.  I left 
mine in the garage over winter and when I tried one last 
week it was all sticky inside.  I have to admit, it looked 
better after boiling, but even as it cooled I could see 
things moving around inside.  You're right; I don't know 
why anyone ever tried autochokes in the first place.  They 
are no fun to prepare, and nobody really knows the right 
way anyway.  Get the temperature wrong and your gas 
mixture will be too rich.  Then you'll hope your 
antibackfire valve is working!  I thought everything would 
be better by now, but so far this year I haven't even been 
able to run down my driveway because of that damned 
autochoke.

Tim
  
On Tue, 21 Jul 2009 00:21:16 -0400
  "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:
> On 20 Jul 2009 at 13:49, Tim Gaines wrote that he had an 
>autochoke 
> problem.
> 
> Me too.  Ever seen an autochoke plant?  I've never 
>understood the 
> mentality of the guy who had the courage to eat the 
>first one, let 
> alone why he bothered to eat the second one. 
> Nevertheless they grow 
> 'em by the zillions in California because they know 
>folks back east 
> will eat anything.
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph 
>Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as mtgaines at mail.presby.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3a at comcast.net  Tue Jul 21 18:07:19 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 20:07:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Walter Cronkite (Now Pat Leno's TR)
In-Reply-To: <318845.25675.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <715997706.3202241248055683156.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<642918482.3203251248055850164.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W2698E8323EA796AFFD5228BA1D0@phx.gbl>
	<862218.1641.qm@web111612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4523D184-1F8A-40E0-A3A1-D29CB16A6D36@comcast.net>
	<586599.84504.qm@web111614.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<D29CC4CF-C9F5-4822-8211-4CAEE3E43B47@comcast.net>
	<A2E43335-7409-4530-AD19-5FAEBE8CCB81@comcast.net>
	<318845.25675.qm@web59711.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <777B18BF-A775-405D-9C98-C47C72D38689@comcast.net>

No one has commented on the dual exhaust on the Leno TR. I had  
forgotten about that and just noticed it again myself. Wonder what's  
under that bonnet!  :^)  http://www.flickr.com/photos/michael47/sets/72157621629124489/

Note: I posted this an hour ago and still haven't seen it on the list.  
If it shows up twice, I apologize.

On Jul 20, 2009, at 11:29 PM, P Caffrey wrote:

> What a beauty....It even has the plate in a pic, "OLD RED."  What  
> year is the TR3A?
> Pat Caffrey
> TR4A '67
> Elk Grove, CA
> (restoration project, on-going, through local garage)

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Jul 21 20:02:14 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 21:02:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Plainfield, IL, Cruise Night
Message-ID: <6D195ABE6988467C8EAFC70FB33C4081@trigeni.com>

Just got back from Cruise Night, and apart from the usual assortment of 50s
iron and 60s muscle there were a couple of Spits, a couple of TR6s and a nice
looking primrose TR4A IRS.  Also a couple of Bs.  Some of the Triumphs had
ISOA stickers - did they belong to anyone on the list?

Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
2000 Jag XK8
Plainfield, IL

From emanteno at gmail.com  Tue Jul 21 21:36:34 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 22:36:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Plainfield, IL, Cruise Night
In-Reply-To: <6D195ABE6988467C8EAFC70FB33C4081@trigeni.com>
References: <6D195ABE6988467C8EAFC70FB33C4081@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <354a1780907212036m23b6bfd9x632143358a1f4de1@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 9:02 PM, Michael Marr <mmarr at notwires.com> wrote:

> Just got back from Cruise Night, and apart from the usual assortment of 50s
> iron and 60s muscle there were a couple of Spits, a couple of TR6s and a
> nice
> looking primrose TR4A IRS.  Also a couple of Bs.  Some of the Triumphs had
> ISOA stickers - did they belong to anyone on the list?


There are quite a few active ISOA members that reside in that area. Based on
the descriptions (primrose TR4A, TR6's, Spitfires), I have a pretty good
idea who was there, but I don't think any of them are on the list.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Wed Jul 22 08:54:42 2009
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:54:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Zenith-Stromberg-new question
In-Reply-To: <F9E493AE05DC4C29810F1EB336F90233@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <web-49500354@mail.presby.edu>
	<F9E493AE05DC4C29810F1EB336F90233@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <web-49575168@mail.presby.edu>

I think Randall was on target here. I took the distributor 
completely apart and found what looks like a spring-loaded 
ground connection between the upper and lower base plates 
which slide against each other as the centrifugal advance 
and vacuum retard units change the timing. After cleaning 
away a lot of gummy residue all over everything with WD40, 
things seemed to be better. Now I am a little unsure of 
just where to set the timing since my vacuum retard unit 
doesn't work. According to specs, I should use dynamic 
timing and set to 2 degrees after TDC with the vacuum unit 
attached. Can't do that. With my TR6 I do a static 10 
degrees before TDC (at least as a starting point), but the 
Spit has a breakerless distributor, so can't do that. If I 
set the timing at 10 degrees BTC dynamically, am I getting 
some influence of the centrifugal advance?

So, my question for the day is, with electronic ignition 
and no vacuum unit, where do you set the timing 
dynamically on a 1500 Spit? As always, thanks for any 
advice.

Tim Gaines
Clinton, SC
1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6

On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:10:27 -0700
  "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
> Tim,
> 
> Check the wires inside the distributor.  Unfasten one 
>end and check for
> continuity while tugging on the wire and flexing it. 
> Also inspect the
> insulation carefully, for any place that could rub and 
>ground the conductor.
> 
> Your description sounds rather similar to a problem I 
>had many years ago, on
> a non-LBC where the wires to the electronic ignition 
>conversion had been led
> through the same hole as the vacuum advance.  The 
>advance rod had rubbed
> through the insulation, and would ground one wire only 
>when the advance was
> in a particular location.
> 
> -- Randall 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph 
>Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as mtgaines at mail.presby.edu
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Jul 22 09:42:02 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 11:42:02 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Zenith-Stromberg-new question
Message-ID: <20090722114202.CLP33288@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Time asked:
> If I set the timing at 10 degrees BTC dynamically, am I
> getting some influence of the centrifugal advance?

Not at idle.  Static timing and idle timing w/o vacuum retard or advance should be the same.  Most likely the centrifugal advance doesn't kick in until you get upwards of 2000rpm.  You can verify this after you set the timing by holding the timing light on and watching as you rev the engine slowly.

As far as I know, they never came with a vacuum advance but they did come with a vacuum retard active at idle only.  That's why your idle and static timing spec's are so different.  So with the vacuum disconnected just set it to the static timing value.

I'm not sure which breakerless ignition your Spitfire has, but mine has the Lucas CEI system (which has a late 70's GM ignition module inside).  The timing hasn't budged in 20 years.  I can't recall exactly what the setting is (it's been a long time since I looked).  With today's gas you may have to tweak it, probably backing it down a little, to avoid pinging.

Jim Muller

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 22 11:56:26 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 10:56:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] overdrive gearbox switches
Message-ID: <502288.95172.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Before installing my fiberglass gearbox cover, tr-6, I decided to replace all
the switches on top of the gearbox (switches for overdrive and reverse
lights).  When taking off the switches I noted that they have differant
numbers of plastic washers (shims?)  some 2 some 3 ect.  I moved the
shims/washers from old to new switches but am wondering if there are
adjustments needed here. Have not found anything in the book yet concerning
this.  I plan on road testing to make sure but just wondering if anyone has
had experience.

thanks!

gary n.

From dbh at hamengr.com  Wed Jul 22 13:07:25 2009
From: dbh at hamengr.com (DAVID HAMMOND)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 12:07:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr-2 horns, how do where do they mount.
Message-ID: <000001ca0aff$a6f51be0$f4df53a0$@com>

I am restoring a 54 tr-2 long door, an early car. Ts 1084L is the commission
number. Anyways, I can't figure out where the horns  mount. I believe they
mount in a similar spot to the tr3's. However, the inner fenders are
slightly different. I have a almost box like metal square mounted on the
inner fenders , on the section above the shock towers. I suspect they go
there. But I have no mounting holes and there is no indication that holes
were ever there. I checked to see if they could have been welded shut in the
past, but I can see and feel no evidence of this..help.. pictures would be
awesome. I am hoping to finish this car before Triumphest, but we will see. 

 

I am also in need of the rear taillight chrome rings for an early tr-2. They
have a squared center, because they run a lens like the mgtd's. But are
rounded on the outside like the tr-3's. Anyone even reproducing them?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 22 13:09:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 12:09:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] overdrive gearbox switches
In-Reply-To: <502288.95172.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <502288.95172.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F88E2BD70C374B7D82F4A4F41CE2EDF4@jdnet.deere.com>

The TR3 workshop manual has detailed instructions for selecting those shims.
Basically you select the gear and screw the switch in until it just closes,
then measure the gap between the switch body & the cover.  Subtract .040"
from the measured gap to get the required shim thickness.  So for example,
if you measured .090", you need to assemble a shim pack for .050".  No
tolerance is given, but I would guess that +/- .010" would be OK.

The most important aspect is obviously that the switches disable the OD in
reverse; but the book talks about the OD engagement needing to be after the
synchros are meshed as well.  

Keeping the same pack would probably work, but with all the variations in
parts, I would want to check anyway.

-- Randall 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 13:48:10 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 15:48:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-2 horns, how do where do they mount.
In-Reply-To: <000001ca0aff$a6f51be0$f4df53a0$@com>
References: <000001ca0aff$a6f51be0$f4df53a0$@com>
Message-ID: <8CBD91C79DA846E-574-172F@mblk-d36.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID HAMMOND <dbh at hamengr.com>

I am also in need of the rear taillight chrome rings for an early tr-2. They
have a squared center, because they run a lens like the mgtd's. But are
rounded on the outside like the tr-3's. Anyone even reproducing them?

==AM==


 You might want to shoot on over to the TR Register Forum:



<http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/>



...and ask there, unless someone else's memory here is better than
mine. I vaguely recall that someone in the Netherlands(?) had done a
small run of those rims some time ago, but I've no other details or recollections.



 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Jul 22 14:06:10 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 13:06:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] VTR/ Triumphest
Message-ID: <6377561F31CC430683C21B0744E9F489@joepentiumnew>

After months of procrastination, I have just sent in my registration for the
upcoming event.

Although I am still unemployed and not much hope that will change in the
foreseeable future, I figure this might be my last chance to attend a VTR
convention, so I sprang for the fee and hotel reservations.

I will be there with both my Spits and hope to see many of you there,
particularly those I have not met in person.

Cheers,
Joe Curry

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Wed Jul 22 18:00:38 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 20:00:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-2 horns, how do where do they mount.
Message-ID: <c65.4fcc5e8a.37990226@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/22/2009 2:50:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dbh at hamengr.com writes:

I am  restoring a 54 tr-2 long door, an early car. Ts 1084L is the  
commission
number. Anyways, I can't figure out where the horns   mount.  

For the horn mounts, send a note to Jeff Kelley  (TS778L) in Coldwater, 
Michigan  - _jeffreykelley at charter.net_ (mailto:jeffreykelley at charter.net) .  I 
 could help with my TS981L but I don't have the technology to send a photo 
but  Jeff does.  Be aware that there is a difference between the early  
horns from the later 2s and all 3s.  Jeff's 2 is a recent best of  show at both 
TRA and VTR

I am also in need of the rear taillight chrome  rings for an early tr-2.
For the tail light reveals and gasket send a note to Tom Householder in  
Lancaster, Ohio  - _trhouse at columbus.rr.com_ (mailto:trhouse at columbus.rr.com) 
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana







**************What's for dinner tonight?  Find quick and easy dinner ideas 
for any occasion. 
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?ncid=emlcntusfood00000009)

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Jul 22 18:28:02 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 20:28:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR4A Exhaust manifold
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEHEFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi All,
Does anybody have a spare TR4A exhaust manifold they would like to sell. I
gave mine to a guy to weld and he disappeared.
Thanks,
Dave Connitt

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 22 19:27:43 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 18:27:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR4A Exhaust manifold
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEHEFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEHEFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <a06240805c68d6cdc8f50@[192.168.2.3]>

If a TR3 manifold will do I have one you can have for shipping costs ...


>Hi All,
>Does anybody have a spare TR4A exhaust manifold they would like to sell. I
>gave mine to a guy to weld and he disappeared.
>Thanks,
>Dave Connitt


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 22 19:34:45 2009
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 20:34:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR4A Exhaust manifold
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEHEFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEHEFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <BLU112-W23A961CD1C81E4E85D5A38B9180@phx.gbl>

 Bad timing Dave -



Your note hit my inbox 6 minutes after one on ebay sold.  Someone lucky TR-er
picked it up for $20.50.  I know, because my bid was only $20!



Seriously, if you don't get luck via the list, they do show up on ebay
occasionally.



Randy

64 TR4

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.: Celebrate the moment with your favorite sports pics.
Check it out.
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_QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Jul 22 20:13:38 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 22:13:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Late TR3A hood stick color
In-Reply-To: <20090712222135154.GDYB2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090712222135154.GDYB2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <76AECB4AC72F4A12A00D45C159B05DEE@CarlPC>

Does anyone have a color code or description (beyond buff/off-white) for the 
hood sticks on a late TR3A (TS81802LO)

Thanks
Carl

From tr3a at comcast.net  Wed Jul 22 20:28:08 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Wed, 22 Jul 2009 22:28:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Late TR3A hood stick color
In-Reply-To: <76AECB4AC72F4A12A00D45C159B05DEE@CarlPC>
References: <20090712222135154.GDYB2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<76AECB4AC72F4A12A00D45C159B05DEE@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <6948E79A-3AF8-460B-AF60-37E6D0AAEB9F@comcast.net>

Body color. The ones on my first '3 (a '61 3A that I bought in '66)  
were anyway.

On Jul 22, 2009, at 10:13 PM, Carl TR wrote:

> Does anyone have a color code or description (beyond buff/off-white)  
> for the hood sticks on a late TR3A (TS81802LO)
>
> Thanks
> Carl
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Jul 22 22:35:46 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 04:35:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] VTR/ Triumphest
In-Reply-To: <6377561F31CC430683C21B0744E9F489@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <1602868581.4559561248323746223.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

It will be an honor to meet you.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:

> From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
> To: "TR owners List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, July 22, 2009 3:06:10 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] VTR/ Triumphest
>
> After months of procrastination, I have just sent in my registration
> for the
> upcoming event.
> 
> Although I am still unemployed and not much hope that will change in
> the
> foreseeable future, I figure this might be my last chance to attend a
> VTR
> convention, so I sprang for the fee and hotel reservations.
> 
> I will be there with both my Spits and hope to see many of you there,
> particularly those I have not met in person.
> 
> Cheers,
> Joe Curry
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com  Thu Jul 23 06:39:38 2009
From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 08:39:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] The big bang
Message-ID: <OF193EDACE.5C0AC798-ON852575FC.0044C6B9-852575FC.00458C0F@amphenol-tcs.com>

Hi all,
Finally enjoying my newly restored 62 TR4.  I do have one question -
usually after driving it for more than 15 minutes, when I shut it off, the
motor stops & it doesn't run on / diesel, but after maybe two or three
seconds - Bang!  Not a very loud backfire, (almost like a backfire under
water).
I just installed a Pertronix kit (what a difference!) but still a backfire.
I have SU carbs that may be running a bit rich, but I am not sure how to
quantify.  I have been playing with the idle as it has been fairly high
(1200 rpms at idle)  I do have 87mm pistons & a 270 cam with a slightly
milled head for higher compression.
Any advice or  would help.
Thanks as always,
John D

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 23 07:35:03 2009
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 08:35:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Seeking trailer space Texas <-> VTR/Triumphest
Message-ID: <BLU112-W19F63E6BDC84BC7AFBCBB3B9180@phx.gbl>

I know it is getting late, but as yet I've not been able to figure out
transportation for my Triumph to the West Coast - so if anyone knows of
trailer space going between Texas and San Luis Obispo, please contact me
off-list.  I'm in the Houston area but can travel to Dallas or thereabouts if
something turns up.  I need round trip unfortunately, don't have the time for
a long distance drive.  Not looking for a free ride, but I can't justify
paying roundtrip on the commercial carriers I've contacted (mucho $$).



Looking forward to the event, car or no car.



Thanks,

Randy

64 TR4

_________________________________________________________________
NEW mobile Hotmail. Optimized for YOUR phone.  Click here.
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From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Jul 23 08:09:16 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:09:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Late TR3A hood stick color
In-Reply-To: <6948E79A-3AF8-460B-AF60-37E6D0AAEB9F@comcast.net>
References: <20090712222135154.GDYB2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com><76AECB4AC72F4A12A00D45C159B05DEE@CarlPC>
	<6948E79A-3AF8-460B-AF60-37E6D0AAEB9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CBD9B64C26FB05-1224-2354@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>

 I'm not sure exactly when the change was, but "very late" 3As (perhaps somewhere in the TS70000 range and newer) and 3Bs had what I've heard described as "sandalwood beige" hoodsticks, said color being the same as that used on TR4 (and early Spitfire) hoodsticks).


 


--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Ferguson <tr3a at comcast.net>









Body color. The ones on my first '3 (a '61 3A that I bought in '66) were anyway.?
?

On Jul 22, 2009, at 10:13 PM, Carl TR wrote:?
?

> Does anyone have a color code or description (beyond buff/off-white) > for the hood sticks on a late TR3A (TS81802LO)?

>?

> Thanks?

> Carl 

From akgraves at cox.net  Thu Jul 23 08:38:20 2009
From: akgraves at cox.net (akgraves at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:38:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Belt Rebuilding
Message-ID: <20090723103820.D99OK.405409.imail@eastrmwml39>

>  Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 17:59:32 -0700 (PDT)
>  From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
>  Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Belt Rebuilding
>  To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>  Message-ID: <920257.87176.qm at web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
>  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>       Does anyone know of somewhere where they rebuild original TR6 inertial
>  seat belts back to original spec's? Have any listers just rebuilt their own?
>  Looking for things to do while the car is being repainted.
>       Bill in Tehachapi



Bill,

I rebuilt the seatbelts on my 1976 TR6 a few months ago.  I did it because the driver side belt had worn half through where the latch sits.  I guess that means I've stayed the same size (mostly) these past 33 years.

I contacted Snake-Oyl several years ago but lost interest when they told me how long they would have my belts.  4-6 weeks is too long for a daily driver.

The job was not too difficult.  I bought the belt material at a trim shop and my wife was able to sew it to the anchor & reel.  The tricky part is the spring.  No troubles with the first one, but the spring sprung on the second.  It takes a long time to wind that sucker back up.

I'm fairly happy with the results.  The belt does not retract any better than it used to - in fact the insides were not dirty at all, which surprised me.  Also the inertia mechanism doesn't catch if you're sitting still.  That is, it doesn't catch if the belt is pulled real fast and I think it should.  But if the whole assembly is jiggled, it will catch easily.

I took notes and a lot of pictures of the process which I can send if interested.

Art Graves
1976 Triumph TR6
1985 Jaguar XJ6
Tulsa, OK

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu Jul 23 09:09:35 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:09:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Late TR3A hood stick color
References: <20090712222135154.GDYB2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com><76AECB4AC72F4A12A00D45C159B05DEE@CarlPC><6948E79A-3AF8-460B-AF60-37E6D0AAEB9F@comcast.net>
	<8CBD9B64C26FB05-1224-2354@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <027164CA33014EFB8B16C124E41A8919@trigeni.com>

Mine (post 60000) are black - I guess that isn't original, eh?

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Mace" <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: <tr3a at comcast.net>; <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Late TR3A hood stick color


> I'm not sure exactly when the change was, but "very late" 3As (perhaps 
> somewhere in the TS70000 range and newer) and 3Bs had what I've heard 
> described as "sandalwood beige" hoodsticks, said color being the same as 
> that used on TR4 (and early Spitfire) hoodsticks).
>
>
>
>
>
> --Andy Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
> Herald engine with wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)
>
> Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
> Register: http://www.vtr.org
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
> Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Ferguson <tr3a at comcast.net>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Body color. The ones on my first '3 (a '61 3A that I bought in '66) were 
> anyway.?
> ?
>
> On Jul 22, 2009, at 10:13 PM, Carl TR wrote:?
> ?
>
>> Does anyone have a color code or description (beyond buff/off-white) > 
>> for the hood sticks on a late TR3A (TS81802LO)?
>
>>?
>
>> Thanks?
>
>> Carl
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Jul 23 09:14:58 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:14:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <OF193EDACE.5C0AC798-ON852575FC.0044C6B9-852575FC.00458C0F@amphenol-tcs.com>
Message-ID: <1324678145.4702171248362098602.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

You can pull the spark plugs and check the color. Nice grey color indicates a good mixture, black color indicates that the mixture is too rich. It can vary from one carb to the other..... 
Tom 
-Subject: [TR] The big bang 

Hi all, 
Finally enjoying my newly restored 62 TR4. I do have one question - 
usually after driving it for more than 15 minutes, when I shut it off, the 
motor stops & it doesn't run on / diesel, but after maybe two or three 
seconds - Bang! Not a very loud backfire, (almost like a backfire under 
water). 
I just installed a Pertronix kit (what a difference!) but still a backfire. 
I have SU carbs that may be running a bit rich, but I am not sure how to 
quantify. I have been playing with the idle as it has been fairly high 
(1200 rpms at idle) I do have 87mm pistons & a 270 cam with a slightly 
milled head for higher compression. 
Any advice or would help. 
Thanks as always, 
John D 

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Jul 23 09:19:58 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:19:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Late TR3A hood stick color
References: <20090712222135154.GDYB2041@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com><76AECB4AC72F4A12A00D45C159B05DEE@CarlPC><6948E79A-3AF8-460B-AF60-37E6D0AAEB9F@comcast.net>
	<8CBD9B64C26FB05-1224-2354@MBLK-M18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <0AC4BBFD76FA430586740DED03F02044@KARL>

TSF130L, a '62 TR3B first titled in '63, had the "sandalwood beige" color 
when I bought it in August '65.  The car was pristine and had no body work 
or repainting at that time - interior as new, etc.  I'm quite sure that was 
the color of the hoodsticks when it left the factory.  And yes I do wish I 
hadn't had to sell it the next fall to go to college.  :-(

Karl


> I'm not sure exactly when the change was, but "very late" 3As (perhaps 
> somewhere in the TS70000 range and newer) and 3Bs had what I've heard 
> described as "sandalwood beige" hoodsticks, said color being the same as 
> that used on TR4 (and early Spitfire) hoodsticks).
> Body color. The ones on my first '3 (a '61 3A that I bought in '66) were 
> anyway.?


> On Jul 22, 2009, at 10:13 PM, Carl TR wrote:?

>> Does anyone have a color code or description (beyond buff/off-white) > 
>> for the hood sticks on a late TR3A (TS81802LO)? 

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 23 09:47:29 2009
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:47:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <OF193EDACE.5C0AC798-ON852575FC.0044C6B9-852575FC.00458C0F@amphenol-tcs.com>
References: <OF193EDACE.5C0AC798-ON852575FC.0044C6B9-852575FC.00458C0F@amphenol-tcs.com>
Message-ID: <COL119-W131D5C0C5A6B97338A310AA5180@phx.gbl>

> Finally enjoying my newly restored 62 TR4. I do have one question -
> usually after driving it for more than 15 minutes, when I shut it off, the
> motor stops & it doesn't run on / diesel, but after maybe two or three
> seconds - Bang! Not a very loud backfire, (almost like a backfire under
> water).




My old TR3 racecar used to do that. The harder I ran it before shutting down,
the louder the bang. I call it an afterfire since it came out the exhaust. I
figgered it was unburned fuel igniting from the exhaust heat.



Thought it was kinda cool.



John

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Jul 23 09:52:37 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:52:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Seeking trailer space Texas <-> VTR/Triumphest
In-Reply-To: <BLU112-W19F63E6BDC84BC7AFBCBB3B9180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1052392148.4679921248364357917.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

This mailing list is the place to go:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/autotransport
autotransport at yahoogroups.com

Be sure to put cities and dates in the subject line when you post.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Randy&Val DeRuiter" <deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:

> From: "Randy&Val DeRuiter" <deruiterville at hotmail.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 8:35:03 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] Seeking trailer space Texas <-> VTR/Triumphest
>
> I know it is getting late, but as yet I've not been able to figure
> out
> transportation for my Triumph to the West Coast - so if anyone knows
> of
> trailer space going between Texas and San Luis Obispo, please contact
> me
> off-list.  I'm in the Houston area but can travel to Dallas or
> thereabouts if
> something turns up.  I need round trip unfortunately, don't have the
> time for
> a long distance drive.  Not looking for a free ride, but I can't
> justify
> paying roundtrip on the commercial carriers I've contacted (mucho
> $$).
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to the event, car or no car.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Randy
> 
> 64 TR4
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> NEW mobile Hotmail. Optimized for YOUR phone.  Click here.
> http://windowslive.com/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_CS_MB_new_hotmail_072009
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Jul 23 09:56:41 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:56:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W131D5C0C5A6B97338A310AA5180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <611517918.4681941248364601683.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "John Herrera" <jrherrera90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> My old TR3 racecar used to do that. The harder I ran it before
> shutting down,
> the louder the bang. I call it an afterfire since it came out the
> exhaust. I
> figgered it was unburned fuel igniting from the exhaust heat.
> Thought it was kinda cool.

Even cooler on my Caterham.  The pipe comes out the left side next to the cockpit, so I can see the flame.
My 1962 TR4 does not do that.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Thu Jul 23 10:06:46 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:06:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] WOODSTOCK (NY) BRITISH CAR MEET SEPTEMBER 26th, 2009
Message-ID: <20819015.1248365206946.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

The Second Annual
WOODSTOCK BRITISH CAR MEET
(British motorcycles & pre-1980 European cars invited too)

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER  26th  -  10:00AM to 4:PM
(Rain Date: Sunday, September 27)

AT THE WOODSTOCK PLAYHOUSE
Intersection of Route 212 and Route 375, Woodstock, NY

Join more than 100 British car owners for a smashing display of classic, 
quirky, and lovable British classics, right in the heart of Woodstock New 
York and the Catskill Mountains.

Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Projects-in-progress, daily drivers, 
and vintage racers are just as welcome as Concours quality show cars. 
If it's British, bring it!   The heart of the picturesque and historic hamlet of 
Woodstock is just a few minutes walk from the Playhouse, offering shops, 
restaurants, live music, & much more.

Cars will enter the field starting at 10:AM, and the fun goes on all day. 
Around 2 pm, we'll present awards, including People's Choice and the 
Longest Distance Traveled. Spectators are welcome -  FREE parking 
is available.

The registration fee for British cars is $15 per car at the gate; there is no 
pre-registration.  All of the proceeds from this event benefit the non-profit 
Woodstock Playhouse. non-profit Food and Refreshments will be available

DIRECTIONS
>From NYS Thruway / I-87: Take Exit 19 (Kingston) and head west on Route 
28 for 5.8 miles (Speed Trap - stay under 50 mph) then turn right onto Route 
375 North, which will end 2.9 miles later at Route 212 and the Playhouse.
>From Saugerties (Exit 20) Take Route 212 West into the hamlet of Woodstock.
The intersection of Route 375 will be on your left; the Playhouse entrance is on 
your right. From points west: Take Route 28 East to Route 375 North. Travel 
2.9 miles, and the road will end at Route 212 and the Playhouse.
FOR MORE INFORMATION: e-mail Woodstock.British at gmail.com

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Thu Jul 23 10:06:51 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:06:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <611517918.4681941248364601683.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0016e6db6806faa8a0046f61ace7@google.com>

My TR4 doesn't do it either, but my lawn tractor does!

Brian Jones, Valley Forge, PA
1962 Triumph TR4
1998 Murray 48"


> Even cooler on my Caterham. The pipe comes out the left side next to the  
> cockpit, so I can see the flame.
> My 1962 TR4 does not do that.
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA

> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7
> 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 23 10:19:43 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:19:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Belt Rebuilding
In-Reply-To: <20090723103820.D99OK.405409.imail@eastrmwml39>
References: <20090723103820.D99OK.405409.imail@eastrmwml39>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W13365C4FDF40C9BE42A945E1180@phx.gbl>

My concern is that while the new seat belts might look good and in this case
be better than a set that are haft warn through.  Are they really as strong as
the original ones?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:38:20 -0400
> From: akgraves at cox.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; wsb1960tr3a at att.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Seat Belt Rebuilding
>
> > Date: Sat, 18 Jul 2009 17:59:32 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> > Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Belt Rebuilding
> > To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> > Message-ID: <920257.87176.qm at web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Does anyone know of somewhere where they rebuild original TR6 inertial
> > seat belts back to original spec's? Have any listers just rebuilt their
own?
> > Looking for things to do while the car is being repainted.
> > Bill in Tehachapi
>
>
>
> Bill,
>
> I rebuilt the seatbelts on my 1976 TR6 a few months ago. I did it because
the driver side belt had worn half through where the latch sits. I guess that
means I've stayed the same size (mostly) these past 33 years.
>
> I contacted Snake-Oyl several years ago but lost interest when they told me
how long they would have my belts. 4-6 weeks is too long for a daily driver.
>
> The job was not too difficult. I bought the belt material at a trim shop and
my wife was able to sew it to the anchor & reel. The tricky part is the
spring. No troubles with the first one, but the spring sprung on the second.
It takes a long time to wind that sucker back up.
>
> I'm fairly happy with the results. The belt does not retract any better than
it used to - in fact the insides were not dirty at all, which surprised me.
Also the inertia mechanism doesn't catch if you're sitting still. That is, it
doesn't catch if the belt is pulled real fast and I think it should. But if
the whole assembly is jiggled, it will catch easily.
>
> I took notes and a lot of pictures of the process which I can send if
interested.
>
> Art Graves
> 1976 Triumph TR6
> 1985 Jaguar XJ6
> Tulsa, OK
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 23 10:21:58 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:21:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <0016e6db6806faa8a0046f61ace7@google.com>
References: <611517918.4681941248364601683.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A6855E6.22619.38061D5C@localhost>

On 23 Jul 2009 at 16:06, TR4Zest at gmail.com wrote:

> My TR4 doesn't do it either, but my lawn tractor does!

You mean your farm tractor doesn't but your your lawn tractor does.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3a at comcast.net  Thu Jul 23 10:41:59 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 12:41:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] WOODSTOCK (NY) BRITISH CAR MEET SEPTEMBER 26th, 2009
In-Reply-To: <20819015.1248365206946.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <20819015.1248365206946.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <80762C1B-C351-4C4C-8274-D761332B4F73@comcast.net>

will Hendrix and Joplin be there? :^)

On Jul 23, 2009, at 12:06 PM, rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net wrote:

> The Second Annual
> WOODSTOCK BRITISH CAR MEET
> (British motorcycles & pre-1980 European cars invited too)
>
> SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER  26th  -  10:00AM to 4:PM
> (Rain Date: Sunday, September 27)
>
> AT THE WOODSTOCK PLAYHOUSE
> Intersection of Route 212 and Route 375, Woodstock, NY

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Thu Jul 23 11:09:01 2009
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:09:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Late TR3A hood stick color
Message-ID: <03005FC7-0D77-4807-BF72-89A12D97B262@mgcarclub.com>

I have a TR4 and this is what I did. Though I had painted mine black  
at one time, I was able to sand back to the original tan. At the paint  
shop that mixed my body color I found the best match in a generic  
color sample book. From what's on the can, I think the sample book was  
Spectramaster, Yellow, YS320.

I don't know how much good this will be at some other paint shop, but  
it might still work.

> I'm not sure exactly when the change was, but "very late" 3As  
> (perhaps somewhere in the TS70000 range and newer) and 3Bs had what  
> I've heard described as "sandalwood beige" hoodsticks, said color  
> being the same as that used on TR4 (and early Spitfire) hoodsticks).

Allen

From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com  Thu Jul 23 11:38:31 2009
From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:38:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <COL119-W131D5C0C5A6B97338A310AA5180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <OFF0A8234A.C4D2E66D-ON852575FC.0060C4DA-852575FC.0060E965@amphenol-tcs.com>

Exactly as you describe - the harder I drive the louder the bang... I am
sure there is a joke in there somewhere... I guess if there is a flame
shooting out the exhaust that is pretty cool & I can live with it...
Thanks!
John D


                                                                           
             John Herrera                                                  
             <jrherrera90 at hotm                                             
             ail.com>                                                   To 
                                       <john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com>,     
             07/23/2009 11:47          Triumph List                        
             AM                        <triumphs at autox.team.net>           
                                                                        cc 
                                                                           
                                                                   Subject 
                                       RE: [TR] The big bang               
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           
                                                                           




> Finally enjoying my newly restored 62 TR4. I do have one question -
> usually after driving it for more than 15 minutes, when I shut it off,
the
> motor stops & it doesn't run on / diesel, but after maybe two or three
> seconds - Bang! Not a very loud backfire, (almost like a backfire under
> water).


My old TR3 racecar used to do that. The harder I ran it before shutting
down, the louder the bang. I call it an afterfire since it came out the
exhaust. I figgered it was unburned fuel igniting from the exhaust heat.

Thought it was kinda cool.

John

______________________________________________________________________
This e-mail has been scanned by MCI Managed Email Content Service, using
Skeptic(tm) technology powered by MessageLabs. To report SPAM or other
related email issues please send an email to Postmaster at amphenol-tcs.com
______________________________________________________________________

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 23 11:39:02 2009
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:39:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 distributor physical fit (pi vs carb)
Message-ID: <117306.39996.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all

I have an early US spec TR6 (CC) with carbs.  I was in recent years based in the UK and collected a few TR bits including a rebuilt TR6 PI distributor - off a 1973 car.  The distrbutor body looks exactly the same as my carb dixxy but I cannot get the PI dizzy to fit.  The central shaft on the PI dizzy seems ever so slightly longer but not enough to preveent the two tabs on the bottom from engaging.  The rebuild was carried out by a reputable firm (H&H Ignition) so I'm sure all the right parts were used. 

I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or if the two parts are not interchangeable.  I can push with more confidence if you guys tell me the parts are physically the same the but I need to know that before I go to town as it were. 

I am at the same time installing a Revotec fan kit made especially for the TR6, it is a superb custom fit, I'll report on that as soon as I'm done with the install.  It will be nice to contribute to the list for once!

thanks and best wishes
Steve

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 23 11:49:09 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 10:49:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <OF193EDACE.5C0AC798-ON852575FC.0044C6B9-852575FC.00458C0F@amphenol-tcs.com>
References: <OF193EDACE.5C0AC798-ON852575FC.0044C6B9-852575FC.00458C0F@amphenol-tcs.com>
Message-ID: <BCE6C50ED9BB431AA5E1F3C6D1252024@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have SU carbs that may be running a bit rich, but I am not sure how to
> quantify.  I have been playing with the idle as it has been fairly high
> (1200 rpms at idle)  

That would be the recipe for unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust after
shutting the engine off.  Most likely it will disappear once you get the
mixture right, the idle down, and enough driving in to burn away the sharp
edges of carbon in the exhaust (that are currently igniting the unburned
fuel).

> I do have 87mm pistons & a 270 cam

That may mean you need to switch to different needles.  There are many
choices available; the 'rich' needles offered by most vendors combined with
setting the idle mixture to the lean side might work well.  Or not.

Also make sure you have the valve lash set to that specified for your cam.
Performance cams generally take more lash; so running them with the stock
lash can increase reversion at idle and cause problems.

-- Randall 

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Thu Jul 23 12:03:30 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 14:03:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <BCE6C50ED9BB431AA5E1F3C6D1252024@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <OF193EDACE.5C0AC798-ON852575FC.0044C6B9-852575FC.00458C0F@amphenol-tcs.com>
	<BCE6C50ED9BB431AA5E1F3C6D1252024@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770907231103i4189d90akcd901007d720ed90@mail.gmail.com>

An Exhaust ignition sounds a little scary to me.

The blue flame out the exhaust pipe sounds cool.  But I wonder - does the
flame also go the other way?  Towards or even out the carbs?  I don't see
why not.

If both the exhaust and intake valves are partially open and the big bang
occurs - seems like the same fire would to towards my carbs - with very worn
throttle shafts. I suppose I could see some fire shoot past those shafts or
from the butterfly into my oil soaked air filter elements.  Suddenly I smell
fire.....

I'm glad my carbs aren't leaking any gas.

Is this any concern at all?

Chris

63 TR4
54 TR2

From tdskip at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 23 12:10:01 2009
From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:10:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 floor replacement questions -
Message-ID: <837558.51903.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Hi folks. Quick question if I may on replacing the TR3 floors;
 
Does it matter is the engine is in/out of the car when replacing the
floorboards? She has slabs of sheet metal just resting in there now with a
couple of tack welds.

I have the front apron and cross-brace off as well - does that matter?
 
Thanks.

Tom
 
 

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Thu Jul 23 12:24:54 2009
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 18:24:54 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR]  WOODSTOCK (NY) BRITISH CAR MEET SEPTEMBER 26th, 2009
Message-ID: <e4829299e8d5.4a68aaf6@optonline.net>

Michael Ferguson wrote:

will Hendrix and Joplin be there? :^)

Yes, but they will be at the original site in Bethel, 62 miles away...

"If you remember the 60's, you weren't really there". 

From dkspence at telus.net  Thu Jul 23 13:13:06 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:13:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 distributor physical fit (pi vs carb)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.17916.1248371367.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.17916.1248371367.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <91FA9E41-B715-4F1F-9D13-A4C40152D2C3@telus.net>

Assuming you still have the original distributor, can't you just  
measure both with a micrometer?  (Shaft length, diameter, lug  
thickness, offset etc)



On 23-Jul-09, at 11:49 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Steve Smith <dogzbody1 at yahoo.com>
> Date: July 23, 2009 11:39:02 AM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR6 distributor physical fit (pi vs carb)
>
>
> Hi all
>
> I have an early US spec TR6 (CC) with carbs.  I was in recent years  
> based in the UK and collected a few TR bits including a rebuilt TR6  
> PI distributor - off a 1973 car.  The distrbutor body looks exactly  
> the same as my carb dixxy but I cannot get the PI dizzy to fit.   
> The central shaft on the PI dizzy seems ever so slightly longer but  
> not enough to preveent the two tabs on the bottom from engaging.   
> The rebuild was carried out by a reputable firm (H&H Ignition) so  
> I'm sure all the right parts were used.
>
> I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or if the two parts are  
> not interchangeable.  I can push with more confidence if you guys  
> tell me the parts are physically the same the but I need to know  
> that before I go to town as it were.
>
> I am at the same time installing a Revotec fan kit made especially  
> for the TR6, it is a superb custom fit, I'll report on that as soon  
> as I'm done with the install.  It will be nice to contribute to the  
> list for once!
>
> thanks and best wishes
> Steve

From auprichard at comcast.net  Thu Jul 23 13:57:01 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:57:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 floor replacement questions -
In-Reply-To: <837558.51903.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
References: <837558.51903.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A55D467593F547F5B51CE0B48A3898CB@DCH6RFC1>

As long as you have the access you need, I see no problem with replacing the
floors with the engine in situ.  In my case(s), the footwells needed
patching in addition, and I would have had difficulties welding the patches
with the engine there.

Presumably you'll be careful with gas lines and the like.

There's no doubt that as you restore, you end up chasing gaps and small
movements in the architecture can come back to haunt you,  But I'd think if
you have the sills and A and B posts in place that it wouldn't be a problem
not having an apron or cross-brace.

Usual disclaimers about not being an expert, etc, etc (but I have restored
two TR3s now)

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Deutsch
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 2:10 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 floor replacement questions -

Hi folks. Quick question if I may on replacing the TR3 floors;
 
Does it matter is the engine is in/out of the car when replacing the
floorboards? She has slabs of sheet metal just resting in there now with a
couple of tack welds.

I have the front apron and cross-brace off as well - does that matter?
 
Thanks.

Tom
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Jul 23 14:05:09 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:05:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] spotted, for sale Salinas, CA
Message-ID: <4A68C275.9090301@gmail.com>

I noticed two TRs for sale along highway #101 between Prunedale and 
Salinas CA. I stopped at each and took a very brief look at each.

In a Prunedale used car lot is a 1979 TR3 drop head coupe.  Dark red.  
Since there are no decals I assume it is a respray.  Cosmetics look 
good.  $1995.

Just North of Salinas on the side of #101 is a yellow late TR6. Asking 
price is $3500.  The sign says "Needs carb work".  This TR has some rust 
problems.  I noticed some at the top a little behind the doors and the 
leading edge of the bonnet has severe rust.

Teriann

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jul 23 14:20:25 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:20:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 distributor physical fit (pi vs carb)
In-Reply-To: <91FA9E41-B715-4F1F-9D13-A4C40152D2C3@telus.net>
References: <mailman.17916.1248371367.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<91FA9E41-B715-4F1F-9D13-A4C40152D2C3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <1440F874CE60464F888285B54BBCBB1D@BOBSNEWPC>

Maybe this is too obvious an answer but the stock distributor only fits in
one way. The slot in the pedestal base is slightly offset so you can't even
put it in 180 * off. I usually rotate the rotor by hand until it drops in
the slot. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don Spence
Sent: Thursday, July 23, 2009 3:13 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 distributor physical fit (pi vs carb)

Assuming you still have the original distributor, can't you just measure
both with a micrometer?  (Shaft length, diameter, lug thickness, offset etc)



On 23-Jul-09, at 11:49 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Steve Smith <dogzbody1 at yahoo.com>
> Date: July 23, 2009 11:39:02 AM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR6 distributor physical fit (pi vs carb)
>
>
> Hi all
>
> I have an early US spec TR6 (CC) with carbs.  I was in recent years 
> based in the UK and collected a few TR bits including a rebuilt TR6 PI 
> distributor - off a 1973 car.  The distrbutor body looks exactly
> the same as my carb dixxy but I cannot get the PI dizzy to fit.   
> The central shaft on the PI dizzy seems ever so slightly longer but  
> not enough to preveent the two tabs on the bottom from engaging.   
> The rebuild was carried out by a reputable firm (H&H Ignition) so I'm 
> sure all the right parts were used.
>
> I'm wondering if I'm doing something wrong or if the two parts are not 
> interchangeable.  I can push with more confidence if you guys tell me 
> the parts are physically the same the but I need to know that before I 
> go to town as it were.
>
> I am at the same time installing a Revotec fan kit made especially for 
> the TR6, it is a superb custom fit, I'll report on that as soon as I'm 
> done with the install.  It will be nice to contribute to the list for 
> once!
>
> thanks and best wishes
> Steve
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From thomas309 at aol.com  Thu Jul 23 14:24:51 2009
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 16:24:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] MGB for sale...NFI
Message-ID: <c1b.55bf421f.379a2113@aol.com>

_http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/1284813811.html_ 
(http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/1284813811.html) 
**************Dell Deals: Treat yourself to a sweet deal on popular 
laptops! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1223100673x1201716527/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Faltfarm.mediaplex.com%2Fad%2Fck%2F12309%2D81939%2D1629%2D7)

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 23 14:27:04 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 15:27:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] spotted, for sale Salinas, CA
In-Reply-To: <4A68C275.9090301@gmail.com>
References: <4A68C275.9090301@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W29A181CD1A5E80D662B41EE1180@phx.gbl>

1979 TR3 ??



I assume this is a typo. 1959?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:05:09 -0700
> From: tjwakeman at gmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] spotted, for sale Salinas, CA
>
> I noticed two TRs for sale along highway #101 between Prunedale and
> Salinas CA. I stopped at each and took a very brief look at each.
>
> In a Prunedale used car lot is a 1979 TR3 drop head coupe. Dark red.
> Since there are no decals I assume it is a respray. Cosmetics look
> good. $1995.
>
> Just North of Salinas on the side of #101 is a yellow late TR6. Asking
> price is $3500. The sign says "Needs carb work". This TR has some rust
> problems. I noticed some at the top a little behind the doors and the
> leading edge of the bonnet has severe rust.
>
> Teriann
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From darrellw at ipns.com  Thu Jul 23 14:50:05 2009
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:50:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] spotted, for sale Salinas, CA
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W29A181CD1A5E80D662B41EE1180@phx.gbl>
References: <4A68C275.9090301@gmail.com>
	<BAY123-W29A181CD1A5E80D662B41EE1180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <75CF0432-F4C6-47D9-9FAD-B94552BD595B@ipns.com>

Considering that she said "no decals", I would guess a TR7

-Darrell

On Jul 23, 2009, at 1:27 PM, Rich White wrote:

> 1979 TR3 ??
>
>
>
> I assume this is a typo. 1959?
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
>
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
>
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
> See it moves!
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 13:05:09 -0700
>> From: tjwakeman at gmail.com
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [TR] spotted, for sale Salinas, CA
>>
>> I noticed two TRs for sale along highway #101 between Prunedale and
>> Salinas CA. I stopped at each and took a very brief look at each.
>>
>> In a Prunedale used car lot is a 1979 TR3 drop head coupe. Dark red.
>> Since there are no decals I assume it is a respray. Cosmetics look
>> good. $1995.
>>
>> Just North of Salinas on the side of #101 is a yellow late TR6.  
>> Asking
>> price is $3500. The sign says "Needs carb work". This TR has some  
>> rust
>> problems. I noticed some at the top a little behind the doors and the
>> leading edge of the bonnet has severe rust.
>>
>> Teriann
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as darrellw at ipns.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Thu Jul 23 14:59:29 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 08:59:29 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR4 exhaust...
Message-ID: <2B6786840E4140188D9C490636D18055@DRESANPC>

Hi listers..I saw that a lister was looking for an exhaust manifold. Try
TRBitz in the UK. e-mail = info at trbitz.com  Their website
is...www.trbitz.co.uk
  The guys name is Craig Mallinson.
        Good luck...
            Trev. hardy: Feilding: New Zealand.
            65 TR4A

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 23 18:17:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 17:17:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770907231103i4189d90akcd901007d720ed90@mail.gmail.com>
References: <OF193EDACE.5C0AC798-ON852575FC.0044C6B9-852575FC.00458C0F@amphenol-tcs.com>
	<BCE6C50ED9BB431AA5E1F3C6D1252024@jdnet.deere.com>
	<6fa72a770907231103i4189d90akcd901007d720ed90@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <890A9B9FC40740E7B6AD480BB4C65F7F@jdnet.deere.com>

> Is this any concern at all?

I guess it's theoretically possible.  But it seems unlikely in practice.
For one thing, the only time both valves are open is near TDC, but 4 and 6
cylinder engines almost never stop at TDC since there is no compression
going on at that point.

For another, the exhaust pipe is wide open while the path back to the intake
is narrow and convoluted.  Being an explosion, the flame lasts for only a
tiny instant.  Very improbable that it would both feed back through the
intake that far, and last long enough to light any solid or liquid matter.

I once had a summer job driving a tractor for a corporate farm.  Discovered
that leaving the throttle open and turning the key off would produce an
impressive exhaust backfire, several seconds after turning off the key.  It
also blew an interesting smoke ring; so I did it fairly often.  Never saw
any indication that it was getting back into the intake (which would have
blown oil all over as it had an oil bath air cleaner).

-- Randall 

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 23 19:37:30 2009
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 21:37:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Looking for a TR4A Exhaust manifold
In-Reply-To: <BLU112-W23A961CD1C81E4E85D5A38B9180@phx.gbl>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEHEFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
	<BLU112-W23A961CD1C81E4E85D5A38B9180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0907231837r659377bak245b73f10ebdd803@mail.gmail.com>

that was a mighty good steal @ $20.50, I have paid near $100 and over to
replace my 4A's cracked XM.

On Wed, Jul 22, 2009 at 9:34 PM, Randy&Val DeRuiter <
deruiterville at hotmail.com> wrote:

>  Bad timing Dave -
>
> Your note hit my inbox 6 minutes after one on ebay sold.  Someone lucky
> TR-er
> picked it up for $20.50.  I know, because my bid was only $20!
>
>
>
> Seriously, if you don't get luck via the list, they do show up on ebay
> occasionally.
>
>
>
> Randy
>
> 64 TR4
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live  Hotmail.: Celebrate the moment with your favorite sports
> pics.
> Check it out.
>
> http://www.windowslive.com/Online/Hotmail/Campaign/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL
> _QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports<http://www.windowslive.com/Online/Hotmail/Campaign/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL%0A_QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as triumph66 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
www.triumphowners.com/967
1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 23 20:20:15 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 22:20:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] it has been a long week
Message-ID: <4A68E21F.27356.3A29DCA0@localhost>

Way too long, and no real progress.

Last time I test-drove the GT6 it still wasn't happy.  I drove for 
just two blocks and it became obvious that Spock isn't firing on all 
thrusters.  So far I've replaced plugs, dizzy cap and rotor, 
condensor, plug and coil wires.  And the coil (Lucas Sport, DIR105, I 
think it said) measured about 1 Ohm between + and - terminals.  I 
read 0 Ohms between the points-mounting plate and ground, as 
expected.  When I pulled the plugs the front three were sooty, the 
back three relatively clean.  That suggests a bad front carb, though 
poor firing would make them black anyway.  They are SUs, no diaphrams 
to break, and the plungers move easily.  The needle looks good, the 
jet moves properly with the choke cable and returns as it should.  
The float level is good and the needle valve isn't stuck.  Maybe one 
of the throttle positioning clamps on the shaft slipped so the carbs 
aren't synched very well, but they aren't moveable by hand and look 
about right.  In any case, a quick check with a synchro tool will 
show a problem with that.  I may swap the coil for the one in the 
Spitfire, or just spring the $30 for a new one, but it doesn't seem a 
likely problem.  Beyond that, I'm stumped.

Which is another way of saying I'm stumped.

I haven't had time to check performance since putting in the new 
plugs.  It's been a long week.  When the dust clears I'll check it 
out again.  Maybe the plugs will make it all better.  But I doubt it.

Which is another way of saying I'm stumped.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Jul 23 20:35:31 2009
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 22:35:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Late TR3A WIRING HARNESS AVAILABLE-NEW
Message-ID: <8CBDA1E8C6D69D6-57C-19FF@FWM-M03.sysops.aol.com>

I bought for my AMBRO TRIUMPH?SPORTS RACER. 

My son decided to do a custom wiring harness. 

I could restock with TRF but thought I would make available to the list.

Contact me at N197TR4 at CS.COM

Thanks!? Joe Alexander

________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 06:07:19 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 12:07:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] The big bang
In-Reply-To: <890A9B9FC40740E7B6AD480BB4C65F7F@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <0016364d1f19280adc046f72721a@google.com>

With your 270 cam, as Randall notes, you may have to change needles.

I have just enjoyed this book:  
http://www.bing.com/shopping/The-Su-Carburettor-High-performance-Manual/search?q=su%20caarburettor&p1=%5bCommerceService+scenario%3d%22o%22+docid%3d%22F9C9CFBCAE7BA7D81D49%22%5d&wf=Commerce&FORM=ENCA

This isn't so much about carb set up, but modification. Half the book is  
about modifying the needles yourself. Just swapping needles is a random  
affair and you may get lucky. However, with this book, you will have a  
methodical process to get to the right needle profile for your cam. You'll  
find a drill press very handy.

The book is online for less than $20. ISBN 1845840739.

Brian

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Fri Jul 24 06:17:34 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 12:17:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] ...and back to Walter Cronkite
Message-ID: <0016365ede6ed0faa7046f7296b1@google.com>

I sent this to the list earlier. Servers refused to serve, or something, as  
it didn't make it through...

I was browsing a blog of memories of Mr Cronkite, and came across this  
recollection:

-----------------------------------------
My one shared moment in time with Walter. It was 1962 - summer. I was  
working as an apprentice at Bucks County Playhouse in New Hope, PA. It's  
around 6 am Sunday morning after a long strike night. I'm walking through  
the deserted streets of town - heading home to my little rooming house. Not  
another soul in sight.

I hear a motor in the distance - the high-pitched whine of a very fast  
engine. It gets louder. Suddenly, a red Triumph TR3 comes barreling down  
the slight incline into town. It takes a quick left onto West Bridge Street  
and slows down slightly as it approaches the bridge to Lambertville, New  
Jersey. The top's down. It's Walter! Hair not yet white ... except around  
the temples.

He gears down, the engine moans. He waves as he passes me ... then he guns  
the engine and he's off.

Gee, I say to myself (even back then!) there goes a legend!
------------------------------------------

Those of us that live in the SE corner of PA will recognise that spot where  
Walter gunned his TR3, early one Sunday morning.

Brian Jones

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Jul 24 07:55:45 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 08:55:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Late TR3A hood stick color
References: <03005FC7-0D77-4807-BF72-89A12D97B262@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <2CD6618D9BBA475F98C7D593B903297F@trigeni.com>

I took another look at my black hoodsticks and found that some of the black 
paint had worn off and powder blue paint was visible.  This was the oriignal 
body color of my car (now red).  My commission number is 65334L.

Mike 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 09:16:21 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 08:16:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] S2 cam.............270 cam
Message-ID: <666859.56488.qm@web59410.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

How does the S2 cam compare to the 270 cam mentioned in the posts?  I noted
that changing carb needles might be suggested for the 270 cam and just
wondering if changing needles might be suggested for my S2 cam?  Zenith carbs
on tr-6.

gary n

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri Jul 24 10:42:20 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 09:42:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 floor replacement questions
Message-ID: <751767.41138.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Tom,
     I wrote up an article on how I welded in my floors in my TR3 about 10
years ago. Hopefully, it can save you some trouble. Here is a link to the
website where I described it.

http://www.sctoa.org/floor.htm

     Good luck. It is not as bad as it appears at first.

     Bill in Tehachapi



Message: 2
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:10:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Deutsch <tdskip at yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] TR3 floor replacement questions -
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <837558.51903.qm at web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi folks. Quick question if I may on replacing the TR3 floors;

Does it matter is the engine is in/out of the car when replacing the
floorboards? She has slabs of sheet metal just resting in there now with a
couple of tack welds.

I have the front apron and cross-brace off as well - does that matter?

From tdskip at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 11:05:14 2009
From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 10:05:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 floor replacement questions
Message-ID: <260825.25529.qm@web55607.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Now that is a GREAT write up Bill. There are some really good tips in there,
things I would have learned the hard way.
 
Thanks for doing that write up and sharing it!
 
Tom

--- On Fri, 7/24/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:


From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: TR3 floor replacement questions
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: tdskip at yahoo.com
Date: Friday, July 24, 2009, 9:42 AM







Hi Tom,
     I wrote up an article on how I welded in my floors in my TR3 about 10
years ago. Hopefully, it can save you some trouble. Here is a link to the
website where I described it.

http://www.sctoa.org/floor.htm

     Good luck. It is not as bad as it appears at first.

     Bill in Tehachapi



Message: 2
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 2009 11:10:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Tom Deutsch <tdskip at yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] TR3 floor replacement questions -
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <837558.51903.qm at web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi folks. Quick question if I may on replacing the TR3 floors;

Does it matter is the engine is in/out of the car when replacing the
floorboards? She has slabs of sheet metal just resting in there now with a
couple of tack welds.

I have the front apron and cross-brace off as well - does that matter?

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 24 12:02:51 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 11:02:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] car for sale
Message-ID: <747815.27491.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

76 tr6 for sale new york area 3500.00 firm needs paint job and new top and carb work get back if interested

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Jul 24 16:29:48 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:29:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] it has been a long week
In-Reply-To: <4A68E21F.27356.3A29DCA0@localhost>
Message-ID: <825224827.4766111248474588617.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Spock isn't firing on all thrusters.B B <SNIPB > When I pulled the plugs the
front three were sooty, the
>back three relatively clean. B That suggests a bad front carb, though poor
firing would make them black anyway.B B 

><SNIP>The float level is good and the needle valve isn't stuck.B B 



Jim, am wondering whether, though the float valves are not stuck, whether a
piece of hose or other debris

might be partially blocking the carb for the front three cylinders.B  I've
experienced something similar, cured by

pulling the assembly and blowing backwards.B  To test, would it be possible to
pull the float covers, hold the

floats open, and have someone turn the engine over to see if gas is coming
through both equally?



A perk is you get to smell the nectar of raw gasoline dumping!B  Not to be
missed for monomaniacal gasphiles!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri Jul 24 19:50:19 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:50:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 adjustable steering wheel
Message-ID: <d54.56415795.379bbedb@aol.com>

list. with reference to the adjustable steering wheel on a tr3. i need to  
know the distance from the back of the steering wheel hub (bottle neck end) 
to  the dash board. the steering wheel is in it's normal position (non 
extended). i  am 5'4" and when i have the seat set in the upmost forward 
position, the bottom  of the wheel is hitting my belly button. my waistline is 32". 
the reason i have  the seat in the forward position is so that i can depress 
the clutch all  the way in. i measured the base of the steering wheel 
(bottleneck end) to the  dashboard and i came out with 3 1/2" (non-extended 
position). is this correct or  incorrect?  regards,  larry schwartz
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 24 21:20:21 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 22:20:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] curious
References: <cfe.469804e5.366f641d@cs.com>
Message-ID: <C0BF94F84F17446B83FBE164C07E6FDD@ranteer.local>

http://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/1250189569.html

just saw this; have no idea.  note the tr250 prototype??????

anyone near enough to go check that out???

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Fri Jul 24 21:31:46 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:31:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] TTA Charity Drive tweets on Twitter
Message-ID: <4A6A7CA2.7010001@triumphstagclub.org>

This email is sent out to all the Triumph lists.  If you are not 
interested in Twitter updates for the Triumph Trans America Charity 
Drive 2009, please excuse the intrusion and delete this email.


Hi All,
I have set up a Twitter account for John Macartney, and I also have one 
myself. 

Tweet texts to Twitter from my phone work fine, I just found out how to 
get texts coming TO my phone and also on my Twitter page.

This will take a bunch of interested people to get this group going, so 
if you are on Twitter (like Randall - tr3nut) join it!

I'll try to keep some morning and evening status texts about John's 
travels until John starts tweeting himself, something I need to get John 
in the habit of for the next two months.  It will really help out for 
when he goes into Canada for the last part of the TTA drive, tweets are 
cheaper than making cell phone calls from a US based cell phone.

To follow John, John's Twitter user name is TTASTAG   - all capitals

My Twitter user name is StagByTriumph  - just like it is typed.

I am getting ready to launch an email campaign to get people to notice 
the TTA drive and its cause promoting awareness for PTSD, and also for 
getting John's Visa extended using an email campaign.  As I get updates 
I'll send tweets.

If I identify a contact source for example, like writing an email to 
President Obama at http://www.whitehouse.gov/CONTACT/ to have him look 
into getting John's charity drive or visa extension, please spread the 
word! (that is a hint!)

If any of you know contacts others need to email or contact to promote 
awareness for this drive, likewise, spread the word!

Maybe you think Twitter is useless?

This would also work really well for say, opposing anti classic/antique 
car legislation for example because tweets get the word out like 
wildfire and give an immediate reply avenue to your elected representatives.
Maybe asking a group of fellow TR3 enthusiasts where to find a part?
Possibilities are endless.

Thanks!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TTA Charity Drive North American Coordinator
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Fri Jul 24 21:55:03 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 2009 21:55:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] curious
In-Reply-To: <C0BF94F84F17446B83FBE164C07E6FDD@ranteer.local>
References: <cfe.469804e5.366f641d@cs.com>
	<C0BF94F84F17446B83FBE164C07E6FDD@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4A6A8217.8010500@triumphstagclub.org>

TR250 prototype for $65,000 ???  yeowwww!!  It would have to have 
perfect documents, but who can tell?

And an XJS prototype too?  and a '58 TR3 factory works car for only 
20k??  could be a very interesting collection.

That TR6 looks very early too with the bumper overrider

oliver wrote:
> http://austin.craigslist.org/ctd/1250189569.html
>
> just saw this; have no idea.  note the tr250 prototype??????
>
> anyone near enough to go check that out???


-- 
Glenn Merrell
TTA North American Coordinator
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From eoot at citlink.net  Sat Jul 25 05:45:01 2009
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 07:45:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 adjustable steering wheel
References: <d54.56415795.379bbedb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001901ca0d1d$58ccf440$650a0a0a@WANDERER>

Larry,

Mine measures the same.  It is interesting to note that the non-adjustable 
actually sits closer to the dash. Not sure by how much.

ed
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 24, 2009 9:50 PM
Subject: [TR] tr3 adjustable steering wheel


> list. with reference to the adjustable steering wheel on a tr3. i need to
> know the distance from the back of the steering wheel hub (bottle neck 
> end)
> to  the dash board. the steering wheel is in it's normal position (non
> extended). i  am 5'4" and when i have the seat set in the upmost forward
> position, the bottom  of the wheel is hitting my belly button. my 
> waistline is 32".
> the reason i have  the seat in the forward position is so that i can 
> depress
> the clutch all  the way in. i measured the base of the steering wheel
> (bottleneck end) to the  dashboard and i came out with 3 1/2" 
> (non-extended
> position). is this correct or  incorrect?  regards,  larry schwartz
> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 
> easy
> steps!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377105x1201454426/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
> =JulystepsfooterNO115)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 25 08:06:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 07:06:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 adjustable steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <d54.56415795.379bbedb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090725140615617.NNDG26619@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> the reason i have  the seat in the forward position is so that i can
> depress
> the clutch all  the way in. 

BTW, the clutch pedal height can be adjusted to some extent, at least on the
later cars with Girling hydraulics.  The essential requirement is only that
there be some clearance at both master and slave.  .010" is enough if you
check and adjust the slave clearance more often (it goes down as the clutch
wears, if it goes to zero the clutch can slip).  Back off the stop screw in
the pedal box (if you have one, later cars didn't) and extend the MC pushrod
to get the height you want; then adjust the stop (adding one if necessary)
to get .010".  The stop screw effectively prevents the slop in the
pedal/pushrod joint from adding to pedal travel.

Guess I should have taken some photos; when TS13571L came to me, it had a
shaped wooden block screwed to the clutch pedal.

Randall

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 25 09:42:36 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 08:42:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 adjustable steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <20090725140615617.NNDG26619@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <d54.56415795.379bbedb@aol.com>
	<20090725140615617.NNDG26619@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0907250842x6ab5955au4aaae99a36645599@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Jul 25, 2009 at 7:06 AM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> ...then adjust the stop (adding one if necessary) to get .010".  The stop
> screw effectively prevents the slop in the pedal/pushrod joint from adding
> to pedal travel.
>

If it is of any help, here's a pic of the adjustment screws I added to my
TR3A (screws were not originally there but the holes were still there in the
box):

*http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/StopBolts.JPG*<triumphs at autox.team.net>

Did it to take up some of the slop from wear in the pedal hole.  Yes, I know
the pedal box should be black... someday... maybe.

I've heard it said that the adjustable steering wheel can be moved through
the full range from 'Too Close' all the way to 'Much Too Close'.

Geo

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sat Jul 25 10:38:47 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 12:38:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] curious
Message-ID: <bef.4ac92b33.379c8f17@aol.com>

hmmm.....1966 TR250 prototype - I gotta look that one up!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 7/24/2009 11:30:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

note the  tr250 prototype??????

**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From blambert at socal.rr.com  Sat Jul 25 12:42:22 2009
From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 11:42:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Damaged TR3A Tub Available - free
Message-ID: <20090725184223821.CYRX29726@hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com>

I am in the process of getting rid of the tub from TS77028L.  The car was in
a front-end accident a few years ago and is unusable as a whole, but some
parts like the front and rear scuttles, "A" and "B" pillars, and other odd
bits of may be of use to someone.  The rear end looks great, but
unfortunately, there's a ton of bondo back there under the paint. 

 

The pictures can be viewed at:

 

http://s584.photobucket.com/albums/ss285/tr3person/

 

The pictures are reasonably high-res so they may take a while to load.  

 

Of course, it's free to anyone who wants to come get it.  The tub is located
in Orange, CA, about 20 miles SE of Los Angeles.  If you just want a certain
bit, let me know and perhaps we can work something out.  I don't have a
torch, and am only able to cut with a cutting blade in an angle grinder, or
perhaps with a saws-all.  This may limit things somewhat, but let me know.
The next step is the crusher.

 

Thanks, Dennis

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Jul 25 15:53:42 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 17:53:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Now I can have a beer!
Message-ID: <4A6B46A6.24915.43828C46@localhost>

You know how they say that 90% of all carburettor problems (not 
counting spelling it properly) are electrical?  This turned out to be 
in the other 10%.  The clue of course was that the front three plugs 
looked sooty while the back three were clean.  And of course the 
sootiness could have been due to a rich mixture or to a simple lack 
of good burning.

Careful inspection showed the culprit to be a rubber cap covering a 
vacuum tap on the front carb, undoubtedly for a line that used to go 
to the dizzy.  It had aged to the point of cracking open and broke 
into two pieces when I touched it.  In addition, the forward-most 
intake manifold nut was loose.  Don't know if it was enough to allow 
air in, but what the heck, I tightened it anyway along with several 
of the other manifold nuts that gave easily.  Then I spent 15 minutes 
(or more) fine-tuning the carbs.

A short spin around the neighborhood showed that Spock is once again 
firing on all thrusters.

Thanks to all who offered advice.

Air leak?  We don't need no stinkin' air leak.


Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From jdemuth at ties2.net  Sat Jul 25 15:56:54 2009
From: jdemuth at ties2.net (Joe DeMuth)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 16:56:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr3 steering adjustment
Message-ID: <985F6643-D2BD-4DE0-A78F-AE5FB08D1962@ties2.net>

Has anyone played with the adjusting screw on the top of the steering  
box to remove some of the slop in the wheel?


Sent from my iPod Touch

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 25 16:19:21 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 15:19:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr3 steering adjustment
In-Reply-To: <985F6643-D2BD-4DE0-A78F-AE5FB08D1962@ties2.net>
References: <985F6643-D2BD-4DE0-A78F-AE5FB08D1962@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0907251519h577e9e40o999ba7e33b5282e2@mail.gmail.com>

That's what it is for.

The key is to not tighten it to the point where it binds at the extremes of
steering linkage travel.

Because 99.9% of your driving is close to straight-ahead the middle section
of the mechanism wears more than the extremes -- thus if you tighten while
in the straight-ahead position you may bind & do damage when turning.

There is a modified adjustment screw available that is spring-loaded to pick
up some of the looseness in the middle w/o binding at the ends.  I use one
and it helps a bit.  Not a miracle cure for a badly worn box, just a little
help for a slightly worn one.

Geo

On Sat, Jul 25, 2009 at 2:56 PM, Joe DeMuth <jdemuth at ties2.net> wrote:

> Has anyone played with the adjusting screw on the top of the steering box
> to remove some of the slop in the wheel?

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Sat Jul 25 16:32:59 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 22:32:59 +0000
Subject: [TR] Now I can have a beer!
In-Reply-To: <4A6B46A6.24915.43828C46@localhost>
Message-ID: <001485f5473494de24046f8f4df9@google.com>

Three clean, three spoiled plugs should lead you in that direction, but a  
good spot re. the vacuum cap.
Its great to see your optimism after the frustrated 'I'm stumped' missive.

Travel well,

Brian
TR4 1962 CT 14455 L
Valley Forge PA

On Jul 25, 2009 5:53pm, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:
> You know how they say that 90% of all carburettor problems
> are electrical? This turned out to be the other 10%. <snip>

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Jul 25 17:19:19 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:19:19 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Lucas alternator
Message-ID: <23539030.1248563959453.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

To All,

I have been asked by a fellow Triumph club member where is the best place to get the diode pack and regulator for the Lucas alternator (in his case it's for a TR6).

Please share your experience.



Greg Gelhar
1980 TR8
1973 TR6
Osseo, MN







.

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Sat Jul 25 17:22:59 2009
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 16:22:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4
Message-ID: <A29058165EA34747BDF2829A7322E1B1@Kitchen>

Listers,

 

I'm finally breaking down and putting an electric fan in my 64 TR-4
(CT38104L).  The last few 110 degree days have convinced me it's necessary. 

 

I'm looking for some help in wiring.  I have the Dan Master's TR-6 wiring
diagram. Has anyone used that to install a fan in a TR-4?  Is the wiring
color the same? If not, does anyone have a good source for a wiring diagram
that incorporates a thermo switch and an override switch?

 

Thanks,

Greg

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 25 18:51:45 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 17:51:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4
In-Reply-To: <A29058165EA34747BDF2829A7322E1B1@Kitchen>
References: <A29058165EA34747BDF2829A7322E1B1@Kitchen>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0907251751w26bf3a81mc2bebfef0b08a749@mail.gmail.com>

On my TR4 I took power from the horn circuit.  My thinking was that it is
already fused and has stout wiring.  I can honk the horn while the fan is
running so hopefully I am not overloading the circuit (okay, I'm sure I'm
not because I did check the amps the fan draws).

I used a simple 'piggyback' female/male spade connector on the p/s horn to
send power to the fan.  I then ran the ground side back to a toggle switch
(my fan is manually controlled) since I retained the stock fan and only use
the electric in traffic, up mountains, etc.  That made it a simple one-wire
run back to the cockpit.. scarcely noticeable.

I personally prefer the manual set-up as I only use the fan on infrequent
occasions and can usually anticipate those situations and start it running
much sooner than a thermo switch would respond.

Your set-up will differ but perhaps this info will help.
Geo


On Sat, Jul 25, 2009 at 4:22 PM, Greg Schuett <tr4boy at surewest.net> wrote:

> I'm looking for some help in wiring...

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 25 19:07:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:07:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr3 steering adjustment
In-Reply-To: <985F6643-D2BD-4DE0-A78F-AE5FB08D1962@ties2.net>
Message-ID: <20090726010753438.YZTU26619@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Has anyone played with the adjusting screw on the top of the steering
> box to remove some of the slop in the wheel?

Yes, and I was very sorry I did.  The excess forces caused by the screw
being too tight caused damage to both the peg and the worm.  The peg is
cheap enough to replace, but the worm is expensive and difficult.  Mine
looks like it has been gnawed by steel rats.

So I strongly recommend following the book instructions, with one caveat.
The book says in effect that, with everything disconnected, you should be
just able to feel the slight binding on-center that indicates there is no
end-play left in the peg/worm.  We're talking remove the steering wheel and
turn the bare shaft with your fingers, to detect the tight spot.  The caveat
is that your tight spot may not be in the center; if the worm/peg are
significantly worn.  On my 59 TR3A, even after replacing the peg, there were
actually two tight spots, on either side of center.

It's also worth noting that the box is supposed to be somewhat sloppy, away
from center.  The theory is that the suspension geometry and the weight of
the car should always provide a centering force, which takes up any play in
the box as you turn against the centering force.  Misalignment or damage (or
poor quality repairs) can mess up the centering force.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Jul 25 19:11:34 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:11:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 adjustable steering wheel
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0907250842x6ab5955au4aaae99a36645599@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090726011135439.ZBIT26619@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

Quoth Geo Hahn:
> If it is of any help, here's a pic of the adjustment screws I added to my
> TR3A (screws were not originally there but the holes were still there in
> the box):

That link again
http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/StopBolts.JPG

Thanks, Geo, that was exactly what I was talking about.
Randall

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Jul 25 19:23:44 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 18:23:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4
In-Reply-To: <A29058165EA34747BDF2829A7322E1B1@Kitchen>
References: <A29058165EA34747BDF2829A7322E1B1@Kitchen>
Message-ID: <a06240800c69160129dbc@[192.168.2.3]>

Hi Greg,
	I have used the Be Cool relay kit part # 134-75021 , you can 
find it at jegs.com.  Not cheap but very complete, good instructions, 
and extremely well built ... If you don't have a "bung" hole, it gets 
more complicated ...

Good Luck
>Listers,
>
>
>
>I'm finally breaking down and putting an electric fan in my 64 TR-4
>(CT38104L).  The last few 110 degree days have convinced me it's necessary.
>
>
>
>I'm looking for some help in wiring.  I have the Dan Master's TR-6 wiring
>diagram. Has anyone used that to install a fan in a TR-4?  Is the wiring
>color the same? If not, does anyone have a good source for a wiring diagram
>that incorporates a thermo switch and an override switch?
>
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Greg


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Sat Jul 25 20:14:21 2009
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett)
Date: Sat, 25 Jul 2009 19:14:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0907251751w26bf3a81mc2bebfef0b08a749@mail.gmail.com>
References: <A29058165EA34747BDF2829A7322E1B1@Kitchen>
	<7bb181af0907251751w26bf3a81mc2bebfef0b08a749@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C67493C1A3B048B48F00F80428A706EE@Kitchen>

Thanks, George!  I like the idea of a one-wire installation.

 

Greg

 

 

  _____  

From: Geo Hahn [mailto:ahwahnee18 at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 5:52 PM
To: Greg Schuett
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4

 

On my TR4 I took power from the horn circuit.  My thinking was that it is
already fused and has stout wiring.  I can honk the horn while the fan is
running so hopefully I am not overloading the circuit (okay, I'm sure I'm
not because I did check the amps the fan draws).

 

I used a simple 'piggyback' female/male spade connector on the p/s horn to
send power to the fan.  I then ran the ground side back to a toggle switch
(my fan is manually controlled) since I retained the stock fan and only use
the electric in traffic, up mountains, etc.  That made it a simple one-wire
run back to the cockpit.. scarcely noticeable.

 

I personally prefer the manual set-up as I only use the fan on infrequent
occasions and can usually anticipate those situations and start it running
much sooner than a thermo switch would respond.

 

Your set-up will differ but perhaps this info will help.

Geo


 

On Sat, Jul 25, 2009 at 4:22 PM, Greg Schuett <tr4boy at surewest.net> wrote:

I'm looking for some help in wiring...

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Jul 25 22:55:18 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 04:55:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c69160129dbc@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <997856644.5510991248584118100.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

No relays, no horn circuit, no use of stock wiring.  Wire straight from battery through inline fuse through 30-amp switch under dash, to fan.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 06:49:26 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:49:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] There's always something......
In-Reply-To: <20090725184223821.CYRX29726@hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090725184223821.CYRX29726@hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <FE2E2886A9E2481E90D9D124E19629CF@DCH6RFC1>

List:

The car is going beautifully - were it not for a very annoying brake squeal.
Only on gentle pressure, not on hard braking, and the car is not pulling at
all.  It is definitely the driver's front.

My understanding was that this is caused by a vibration within the caliper.
Any suggestions for how to deal with it?  Thanks !

Andrew

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 06:59:01 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:59:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4
References: <A29058165EA34747BDF2829A7322E1B1@Kitchen>
Message-ID: <223543833A294E0B885ADFE2DBDA51E1@DCS78M81>

The easiest way is go to manual switch as previously posted. If you want an 
automatic turn on, there is a thermostat that connects to any engine bolt. I 
have that on my Stag and it works well for the A/C condenser and as an 
auxiliary fan when the block gets over 165 degrees F.  I don't know who 
makes it, but a good A/C or radiator shop should have access. On my TR3 I 
found a "bung hole in the metal radiator pipe" at Stoneleigh autojumble a 
few years ago. The problem with that is that I had to run a ground wire to 
the pipe. Then it worked fine. I'd go with the wire to the block.
I could send pictures of the Stag and TR3 set up if you'd like.
Tom
60 TR3A
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag

From: "Greg Schuett" <tr4boy at surewest.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 25, 2009 7:22 PM
Subject: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4


> Listers,
>
>
>
> I'm finally breaking down and putting an electric fan in my 64 TR-4
> (CT38104L).  The last few 110 degree days have convinced me it's 
> necessary.
>
>
>
> I'm looking for some help in wiring.  I have the Dan Master's TR-6 wiring
> diagram. Has anyone used that to install a fan in a TR-4?  Is the wiring
> color the same? If not, does anyone have a good source for a wiring 
> diagram
> that incorporates a thermo switch and an override switch?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gre 

From emanteno at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 07:14:01 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:14:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] There's always something......
In-Reply-To: <FE2E2886A9E2481E90D9D124E19629CF@DCH6RFC1>
References: <20090725184223821.CYRX29726@hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com>
	<FE2E2886A9E2481E90D9D124E19629CF@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <354a1780907260614i26beb8cesa4a6ee1e1e08e2af@mail.gmail.com>

Don't which model you have, but this is pretty common. There are anti-squeal
shims available for TR4s-6s, which help some. There are also goos that you
put on the back of the pads that are supposed to help. Mine squeal sometimes
as well, but for me, that is a plus since my horns recently stopped working.

;-)

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (hoping to be "horny" again later today)
Highland Park, IL

On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 7:49 AM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net>wrote:

> List:
>
> The car is going beautifully - were it not for a very annoying brake
> squeal.
> Only on gentle pressure, not on hard braking, and the car is not pulling at
> all.  It is definitely the driver's front.
>
> My understanding was that this is caused by a vibration within the caliper.
> Any suggestions for how to deal with it?  Thanks !
>
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as emanteno at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Jul 26 07:45:53 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 09:45:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] There's always something......
In-Reply-To: <354a1780907260614i26beb8cesa4a6ee1e1e08e2af@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FE2E2886A9E2481E90D9D124E19629CF@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <4A6C25D1.7887.46EA49BD@localhost>

On 26 Jul 2009 at 8:14, Irv Korey wrote:

> Mine squeal sometimes as well, but for me, that is a plus
> since my horns recently stopped working.

You know, you can wire the horn by tapping off the wire that feeds 
your electric fan.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sun Jul 26 08:00:52 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 10:00:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] There's always something......
References: <20090725184223821.CYRX29726@hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com><FE2E2886A9E2481E90D9D124E19629CF@DCH6RFC1>
	<354a1780907260614i26beb8cesa4a6ee1e1e08e2af@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76B9BF5E4EE642EF84FB28E3EA7CEBE6@userb38463fba5>

Don't know what model you have from your posting.
The squeal typicaly comes from the interface between the back of the pad and 
the caliper piston. You need to place something between those surfaces to 
eliminate the squeal. The shims Irv mentions are made from a very thin piece 
of aluminum and work well. They are held in place by the pad pins. If you 
have a TR4 thru 6 they should work for you. I don't know much about the 
Spitfires but assume that as new they were fit with that same aluminum 
piece. Look thru your parts cataloges and you should find them.
I've used the goo as well but it didn't work as well as the aluminum shims 
for me.

JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Irv Korey" <emanteno at gmail.com>
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] There's always something......


> Don't which model you have, but this is pretty common. There are 
> anti-squeal
> shims available for TR4s-6s, which help some. There are also goos that you
> put on the back of the pads that are supposed to help. Mine squeal 
> sometimes
> as well, but for me, that is a plus since my horns recently stopped 
> working.
>
> ;-)
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U (hoping to be "horny" again later today)
> Highland Park, IL
>
> On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 7:49 AM, Andrew Uprichard 
> <auprichard at comcast.net>wrote:
>
>> List:
>>
>> The car is going beautifully - were it not for a very annoying brake
>> squeal.
>> Only on gentle pressure, not on hard braking, and the car is not pulling 
>> at
>> all.  It is definitely the driver's front.
>>
>> My understanding was that this is caused by a vibration within the 
>> caliper.
>> Any suggestions for how to deal with it?  Thanks !
>>
>> Andrew

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 08:51:08 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 10:51:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
Message-ID: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>

list, for those of you who have taken of the task of doing a restoration on 
 your triunph and after spending a great deal of time and money on your  
restoration, what was your experience when you took the car out for it's  
first spin?   larry schwartz
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323048x1201367271/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 26 09:14:39 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:14:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] There's always something......
In-Reply-To: <FE2E2886A9E2481E90D9D124E19629CF@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20090726151439590.RHEW5845@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> My understanding was that this is caused by a vibration within the
caliper.
> Any suggestions for how to deal with it?  Thanks !

As mentioned, a thin pad of aluminum between the pad & piston seems to work
well.  I found some general-purpose ones at my FLAPS, that have an adhesive
back and cut to shape with scissors.  In the Help! Section, I might have the
package somewhere if you need a part number.

Other things that might help are resurfacing the rotors with something like
this
http://tinyurl.com/nlnpnz
or putting a bevel on the leading edge of the pads

Of course, I assume you've already tried replacing the pad hold-down
springs.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Jul 26 09:21:19 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:21:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Help wiring an electric fan in a TR-4
In-Reply-To: <223543833A294E0B885ADFE2DBDA51E1@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <20090726152118914.RKGM5845@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> The easiest way is go to manual switch as previously posted. 

I've driven a lot with a manual switch; PITA if you ask me.  I was forever
forgetting to turn it on, or off.

DeRale makes a nice package, with a temp sensor that pushes into the
radiator (friction fit in the fins, no modification necessary), an
integrated relay (replaceable separately), and an adjustment for
temperature.  Not cheap, but that's what I'll use next time.
http://www.derale.com/adjust-fan-controller.html

Randall

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 09:25:45 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 11:25:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
In-Reply-To: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>
References: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C863AD6238EB480A827F7CA9D23F59CE@DCH6RFC1>

Exhilaration !

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 10:51 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive

list, for those of you who have taken of the task of doing a restoration on 
 your triunph and after spending a great deal of time and money on your  
restoration, what was your experience when you took the car out for it's  
first spin?   larry schwartz
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323048x1201367271/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 09:50:17 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 08:50:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
In-Reply-To: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>
References: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A6C7B39.9030709@gmail.com>

L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> list, for those of you who have taken of the task of doing a restoration on 
>  your triunph and after spending a great deal of time and money on your  
> restoration, what was your experience when you took the car out for it's  
> first spin?   larry schwartz
>   
I was scared near to death! 

I just knew I must have forgotten to tighten something or put something 
on wrong and that a wheel or the suspension would fall off at any moment 
with catastrophic results.  It wasn't until I had about 200 miles on the 
car that I stopped worrying so much about the car falling apart on me 
and at about 400 miles I was testing the anti sway bars, throwing my TR3 
into sharp mountain corners at speed, punching the DCOEs coming out of 
the corners with a big grin on my face.  I gotta do something about that 
open diff though.

Teriann

From emanteno at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 10:56:42 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 11:56:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] There's always something......
In-Reply-To: <4A6C25D1.7887.46EA49BD@localhost>
References: <FE2E2886A9E2481E90D9D124E19629CF@DCH6RFC1>
	<354a1780907260614i26beb8cesa4a6ee1e1e08e2af@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A6C25D1.7887.46EA49BD@localhost>
Message-ID: <354a1780907260956s2effb482if546fa37cded624c@mail.gmail.com>

On Sun, Jul 26, 2009 at 8:45 AM, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> On 26 Jul 2009 at 8:14, Irv Korey wrote:
>
> > Mine squeal sometimes as well, but for me, that is a plus
> > since my horns recently stopped working.
>
> You know, you can wire the horn by tapping off the wire that feeds
> your electric fan.



No electric fan yet. Just diagnosed a dead horn relay. Piece of Lucas junk
only lasted 35 years.

;-)

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Sun Jul 26 11:57:16 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 13:57:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
In-Reply-To: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>
References: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <0KNE000SXHVIXLA2@vms173019.mailsrvcs.net>

At 10:51 AM 7/26/2009, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
>list, for those of you who have taken of the task of doing a restoration on
>  your triunph and after spending a great deal of time and money on your
>restoration, what was your experience when you took the car out for it's
>first spin?   larry schwartz

Sheer, abject terror because I *knew* I'd forgotten to tighten 
something, followed by exhilaration at the neck-snapping acceleration 
as I broke in the rings, followed by acute embarrassment as I ran out 
of gas.  There, the truth is out.

jim

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go 

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Jul 26 13:14:27 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 15:14:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] There's always something......
In-Reply-To: <20090726151439590.RHEW5845@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <FE2E2886A9E2481E90D9D124E19629CF@DCH6RFC1>
	<20090726151439590.RHEW5845@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <856852823B2D4453971E23D0D95CF7DA@DCH6RFC1>

Thanks, Randall.  Didn't think they needed to be replaced as they were new
when I reconditioned the calipers.  I'll try the aluminum pad and let the
list know.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 11:15 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] There's always something......

> My understanding was that this is caused by a vibration within the
caliper.
> Any suggestions for how to deal with it?  Thanks !

As mentioned, a thin pad of aluminum between the pad & piston seems to work
well.  I found some general-purpose ones at my FLAPS, that have an adhesive
back and cut to shape with scissors.  In the Help! Section, I might have the
package somewhere if you need a part number.

Other things that might help are resurfacing the rotors with something like
this
http://tinyurl.com/nlnpnz
or putting a bevel on the leading edge of the pads

Of course, I assume you've already tried replacing the pad hold-down
springs.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Jul 26 14:13:55 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 16:13:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
References: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>
	<C863AD6238EB480A827F7CA9D23F59CE@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <17DD98C30DC14FE0B58C5CBB99F21CCE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I am looking forward to that day that I'll also take my 'restoration-1st 
drive'.  While 'exhilaration' aptly describes what I think I'll discover- I 
can't seem to wonder a little that I'll be 'let down a little'.  I've 
anticipated it too long to be accurate!
Paul               1960 TR3


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <L1J1S at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive


> Exhilaration !
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 10:51 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
>
> list, for those of you who have taken of the task of doing a restoration 
> on
> your triunph and after spending a great deal of time and money on your
> restoration, what was your experience when you took the car out for it's
> first spin?   larry schwartz
> **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
> Steps!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323048x1201367271/aol?redir=htt
> p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
> yExcfooterNO62)
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net
>
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From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Jul 26 17:10:24 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 19:10:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
Message-ID: <d26.377e3c64.379e3c60@aol.com>

In a message dated 7/26/2009 11:10:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
L1J1S at aol.com writes:

what was  your experience when you took the car out for it's  
first  spin?   larry schwartz


Hey Larry,
When I read your post I could not help but to remember the first  
restoration of my TR3B.  I got maybe 3 miles from my dear friends shop,  Automotive 
Artistry, and the brakes first smoked then locked!  Dale  Wagner and his son 
Daryl rescued  me from the side of the road and  fixed that problem.  
However the next time I attempted to bring her  home she blew oil all over the 
place for it seems that a bolt which had a  direct line to the oil sump was 
missing!
Yikes,
Darrell
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sun Jul 26 17:29:35 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 16:29:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
Message-ID: <318946.3311.qm@web59701.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I haven't gotten my car back yet from the garage where it's undergoing a
partial restoration--engine compartment cleaned, repaired and painted; 87mm
pistons; mild street cam; Herman's Toyota conversion; wheels blasted and
powder coated, plus some other things.  I'm anticipating that actually driving
the car when complete will be akin to my dating experience as a
youth.....She'll give me a great thrill but I'll (or have) pay for it in the
end (and there's the "let down").
Pat
TR4A '67
________________________________
From: dorpaul <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To:
Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net>; L1J1S at aol.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 1:13:55 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive

I am looking forward to that day that
I'll also take my 'restoration-1st 
drive'.  While 'exhilaration' aptly
describes what I think I'll discover- I 
can't seem to wonder a little that
I'll be 'let down a little'.  I've 
anticipated it too long to be accurate!
Paul              1960 TR3


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew
Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <L1J1S at aol.com>;
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 11:25 AM
Subject: Re:
[TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive


> Exhilaration !
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com
> Sent:
Sunday, July 26, 2009 10:51 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR]
tr-finally restored- 1st drive
>
> list, for those of you who have taken of
the task of doing a restoration 
> on
> your triunph and after spending a
great deal of time and money on your
> restoration, what was your experience
when you took the car out for it's
> first spin?  larry schwartz
>
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
>
Steps!
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221323048x1201367271/aol?redir=htt
>
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
>
yExcfooterNO62)
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as
auprichard at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
_______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as
dorpaul at bellsouth.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Jul 26 18:17:47 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 17:17:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Monterey, CA mechanic?
Message-ID: <4A6CF22B.5080906@gmail.com>

I have a whole bunch of things to get done along a whole range of 
projects in a short time so I'm farming some stuff out.

Anyone know a mechanic in the Monterey CA area that knows their way 
around TR3's?

Specifically I want to replace the bent front engine plate on my engine 
with a new aluminum one and I have a weird wear problem on the front 
right wheel that might need a suspension part replacement.  I'm going to 
get my TR repainted soon and would prefer to get this work done first.

Teriann

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Jul 26 23:49:39 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 23:49:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
In-Reply-To: <0KNE000SXHVIXLA2@vms173019.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <ca3.5698687f.379dc75c@aol.com>
	<0KNE000SXHVIXLA2@vms173019.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <91FACC2B0E474C7C83925223B8EB8944@bboffice>

Jim,
Join the club, I too ran out of gas even though the gauge read 1/4 tank.  It
was a thrill on the first ride, no windshield, no trans tunnel or and other
interior component save the dash... then it started to rain at 60 MPH.

I noticed a pull, felt like torque-steer from an 1986 front-wheel-drive
Taurus we used to have, come to find I had not fully tightened the U-Bolts
securing the rear-end to the frame.  That could have made the evening news!

Still working out the kinks with 160 miles on the car to Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

date.



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of J.C. Hassall
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 11:57 AM
To: L1J1S at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive

At 10:51 AM 7/26/2009, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
>list, for those of you who have taken of the task of doing a 
>restoration on
>  your triunph and after spending a great deal of time and money on 
>your restoration, what was your experience when you took the car out for
it's
>first spin?   larry schwartz

Sheer, abject terror because I *knew* I'd forgotten to tighten something,
followed by exhilaration at the neck-snapping acceleration as I broke in the
rings, followed by acute embarrassment as I ran out of gas.  There, the
truth is out.

jim

--
J.C. Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
98.9% finished, 90% to go
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Jul 27 05:56:42 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 07:56:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
In-Reply-To: <d26.377e3c64.379e3c60@aol.com>
References: <d26.377e3c64.379e3c60@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D6182810046F4C0AA4B0FF0DF8737341@DCH6RFC1>

Larry - why do you ask ?  do you have a story to share?

andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 7:10 PM
To: L1J1S at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive

In a message dated 7/26/2009 11:10:13 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
L1J1S at aol.com writes:

what was  your experience when you took the car out for it's  
first  spin?   larry schwartz


Hey Larry,
When I read your post I could not help but to remember the first  
restoration of my TR3B.  I got maybe 3 miles from my dear friends shop,
Automotive 
Artistry, and the brakes first smoked then locked!  Dale  Wagner and his son

Daryl rescued  me from the side of the road and  fixed that problem.  
However the next time I attempted to bring her  home she blew oil all over
the 
place for it seems that a bolt which had a  direct line to the oil sump was 
missing!
Yikes,
Darrell
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222585106x1201462830/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Jul 27 06:22:31 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 08:22:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] Lucas alternator
Message-ID: <bb9.4b13f471.379ef607@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/25/2009 6:19:32 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ggelhar at earthlink.net writes: 
> I have been asked by a fellow Triumph club member where is the best place 
> to get the diode pack and regulator for the Lucas alternator (in his case 
> it's for a TR6).
> 
> Please share your experience.
> 
I've sourced them at Victoria British with good results.  I don't know 
where Delphi (the usual rebuilder) gets them but I've seen diodes break loose in 
alternators rebuilt by them.  (anecdote alert!)

Dave

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Jul 27 07:07:13 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 09:07:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
Message-ID: <ca4.45fe9cca.379f0081@aol.com>

baby steps - short trips......each trip got longer after nothing fell off,  
the motor didn't overheat, no fuel gushing out of the carbs.....it was a 
little  anxious at first but every run got better and better....
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
 
In a message dated 7/26/2009 11:16:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
L1J1S at aol.com writes:

what was  your experience when you took the car out for it's  
first  spin?   

**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823322x1201398723/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Jul 27 07:51:34 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 15:51:34 +0200
Subject: [TR] TR4A Diff curing oil leak.
Message-ID: <62540CB1CC644034B7A421F228B2323C@Study>

I have a mild case of shipwright's disease. On Randall's advice (thank you 
for that)
I have removed the cage from the case, removed and inspected the sun and 
planet wheels. I
found it quite a fun experience.
 I find my first assessment was wrong . I have case hardening
pitted on only one side of the right sun wheel teeth. All the other teeth 
are
acceptable. Crown wheel and pinion, and all bearings are fit for further
use.
My thought is that if I change over the sun wheels side for side the good
teeth will take the loads for forward motion and the worn ones will only be
used in reverse. I don't intend doing doughnuts!

Any thoughts most welcome.

David Brister
1967 TR4A
CTC77785 O


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 23627 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Jul 27 11:35:55 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 27 Jul 2009 10:35:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A Diff curing oil leak.
In-Reply-To: <62540CB1CC644034B7A421F228B2323C@Study>
References: <62540CB1CC644034B7A421F228B2323C@Study>
Message-ID: <34928FEBA0B34E089E708DB71BE97B9B@jdnet.deere.com>

> My thought is that if I change over the sun wheels side for side the good
> teeth will take the loads for forward motion and the worn ones will only
> be used in reverse.

Makes sense to me.  Only caveat might be if both sides of the bad teeth are
too weak; then the failure might spread to the pressure side.  You might
actually have to replace the gear in another 42 years!

:^)

-- Randall 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 28 01:54:14 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 07:54:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] tr-finally restored- 1st drive
In-Reply-To: <D6182810046F4C0AA4B0FF0DF8737341@DCH6RFC1>
References: <d26.377e3c64.379e3c60@aol.com>
	<D6182810046F4C0AA4B0FF0DF8737341@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W4656DD7AFF9E298C695CBAE5150@phx.gbl>

My first spin was when I barely had all the sheet metal on the car.  I took
the car out on the street in front of my house.  My car has a Ford 289 CI in
it.  A local kid on a dirt bike pulled along side and reved his engine.  I
nodded and we took of from a rolling start.  I pulled away from him very
handily.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.: Celebrate the moment with your favorite sports pics.
Check it out.
http://www.windowslive.com/Online/Hotmail/Campaign/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL
_QA_HM_sports_photos_072009&cat=sports

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Tue Jul 28 03:03:46 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 21:03:46 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR4A hood stowage and retractable seat belts...
Message-ID: <D2FEFBCFD00A443B953E64340842D2A0@DRESANPC>

Hi listers.....

            Nearly finished the restyoration, but am not too sure of how the
hood stowage goes.
                 There aoears to be no seat, and the only vertical piece sits
hard against the front of the fuel tank. Mine has two speakers attached as
well!
                 My question is....how and where does the hood go when not in
use. Surely it doesn't just sit on the back (seat) area! Is there a cover for
the stowed hood. The books I have are not too helpful on this subject.
                  My other question concerns retracting seat belts. On my '70
MGBGT, there is an anchor nut on the top of the wheel arch which makes for
easy mounting of a reel that allows the belt to exit horizontal. Not so on the
4. Any suggestions please? My mate who is into servicing and racing Alfa
Romeos has suggested an elaborate set up using a pipe between the wheel
arches, with the reels mounted on that. I'm not too happy about that! Hence
the question about the hood stowage.

                Your thoughts would be most appreciated.....

                    Cheers.....Trev......Feilding; New Zealand.....TR4A.

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 28 05:52:33 2009
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 11:52:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-America Charity Run
Message-ID: <BAY117-W33E672C9E557C8D296ADA99F150@phx.gbl>

Hi All  I met up with John MacCartney at the Day of Triumph at Larz Anderson
Auto Museum this last Sunday.  John was his usual personable, enthusiastic
self.  He was headed west to New York State at the end of the show that day.
If you have the chance to see John and his (for the summer) Triumph Stag,
Uncle Jack you should take the opportunity, and if you can, support the
charities he is driving for.  John's route and itinerary are on the
Trumph-Trans America Charity website triumphtransamerica.org.uk
Bob Rochlin
_________________________________________________________________
Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now.
http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TXT_ML
OGEN_Local_Local_Restaurants_1x1

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jul 28 06:26:54 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 08:26:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Triumph Trans-America Charity Run
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-W33E672C9E557C8D296ADA99F150@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-W33E672C9E557C8D296ADA99F150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0907280824190.7146@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 28 Jul 2009, Bob Rochlin wrote:

> Hi All  I met up with John MacCartney at the Day of Triumph at Larz Anderson

[edited]

I had a chance to show John and UnK some neat roads here in New England. I 
think he thouroughly enjoyed the romp. We even hot some dirt road, an New 
England Triumphs unwritten specialty.

:-)

I did over 500 miles in the street car this weekend. Totally awesome 
despite some weather (we had over 2 inches of rain on our tour last FRI).

Toodles,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2009       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From rjones at wfeca.net  Tue Jul 28 10:46:48 2009
From: rjones at wfeca.net (Bob Jones)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 11:46:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Stumbling TR6
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W4656DD7AFF9E298C695CBAE5150@phx.gbl>
References: <d26.377e3c64.379e3c60@aol.com><D6182810046F4C0AA4B0FF0DF8737341@DCH6RFC1>
	<BAY110-W4656DD7AFF9E298C695CBAE5150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D0843D75733F43BB859DE47FB68A2802@OwnerPC>

Good Afternoon everyone.

I'm trying to get ready to go to the Summer Party and I'm having a tuning 
problem with the 6.  I't stumbling upon initial accelleration.  After it 
revs up its running pretty smoothly.  I know this could be atributed to a 
number of things.  Any suggestions?

Thanks

bob 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 28 10:55:09 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 09:55:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Stumbling TR6
In-Reply-To: <D0843D75733F43BB859DE47FB68A2802@OwnerPC>
References: <d26.377e3c64.379e3c60@aol.com><D6182810046F4C0AA4B0FF0DF8737341@DCH6RFC1><BAY110-W4656DD7AFF9E298C695CBAE5150@phx.gbl>
	<D0843D75733F43BB859DE47FB68A2802@OwnerPC>
Message-ID: <DFDF80D8A4EE4E8BA48B65D886FD7E95@jdnet.deere.com>

> I't stumbling upon initial accelleration.  After it
> revs up its running pretty smoothly.  

Very first thing I'd check is the dampers.  If one or both are out of oil,
it will stumble when the throttles are first opened.

If so, after SP you can change the O-rings.

-- Randall 

From Harrymague at aol.com  Tue Jul 28 11:23:52 2009
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 13:23:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] Carb O-ring Question????
Message-ID: <cf0.5f030b4f.37a08e28@aol.com>

Started preping my car for the Dayton BCD and the rear carb has  always 
lost the damper oil.  So I took it apart.  This is not the  first time I have 
taken this carb apart to get to that little O-ring.  Well  going thru my 
parts, I couldn't find a replacement for it.  So I went to  the several spare 
carbs I have, open one of them up to look at the O-ring.   What I found 
surprised me.  The O-rings in the old carbs were square, but  the replacement in 
the carb on my car was round (the profile of the  o-ring).  All the companies 
list this o-ring, but I am curious as the  proper application.  The orginal 
part number is listed as:   RTC165.  Any bodies toughts would be helpful.
 
Harry Mague
74TR6
 
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377107x1201454434/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
yExcfooterNO62)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 28 11:40:12 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 10:40:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Carb O-ring Question????
In-Reply-To: <cf0.5f030b4f.37a08e28@aol.com>
References: <cf0.5f030b4f.37a08e28@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6F0115BB8E074A22A8D8A81BF3BCD9D1@jdnet.deere.com>

> What I found
> surprised me.  The O-rings in the old carbs were square, but  the
> replacement in
> the carb on my car was round (the profile of the  o-ring).  

I suspect that the originals were round as well, but time, heat and pressure
mold them to match the (square cross section) cavity that they live in.

At any rate, I used ordinary round rings in my Stag carbs, and they seem to
work just fine.

MMC does have some O-rings in both square and 'quad' cross section; but I
don't know about size, offhand.

-- Randall 

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Jul 28 12:03:11 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 12:03:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] Carb O-ring Question????
In-Reply-To: <cf0.5f030b4f.37a08e28@aol.com>
References: <cf0.5f030b4f.37a08e28@aol.com>
Message-ID: <922CB359-00D6-4365-9F54-20510CFCA215@comcast.net>

Harry,

Send me an address and I'll send you a couple of the 0-rings I use in  
my dampers.  I bought a bunch since by the 100 they were pretty cheap.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 28, 2009, at 11:23 AM, Harrymague at aol.com wrote:

> Started preping my car for the Dayton BCD and the rear carb has   
> always
> lost the damper oil.  So I took it apart.  This is not the  first  
> time I have
> taken this carb apart to get to that little O-ring.  Well  going  
> thru my
> parts, I couldn't find a replacement for it.  So I went to  the  
> several spare
> carbs I have, open one of them up to look at the O-ring.   What I  
> found
> surprised me.  The O-rings in the old carbs were square, but  the  
> replacement in
> the carb on my car was round (the profile of the  o-ring).  All the  
> companies
> list this o-ring, but I am curious as the  proper application.  The  
> orginal
> part number is listed as:   RTC165.  Any bodies toughts would be  
> helpful.
>
> Harry Mague
> 74TR6
>
> **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2  
> Easy
> Steps!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222377107x1201454434/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx 
> ?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Jul
> yExcfooterNO62)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Jul 28 16:16:30 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 16:16:30 -0600
Subject: [TR]  TR4A hood stowage and retractable seat belts...
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1248804001.24882.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1248804001.24882.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <C2A7ECE3-2B38-47F4-BFD7-359413EC4E9B@telus.net>

Look at a TR6.  The 4A is not likely to be reinforced nor have the  
captive nuts but will give you an indication of how and where.  
Likewise the hood (soft-top). There are major differences in the top  
frame but they mount the same way and stow in the same way/place.

On 28-Jul-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: T S Hardy <t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz>
> Date: July 28, 2009 3:03:46 AM MDT (CA)
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TR4A hood stowage and retractable seat belts...

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Jul 28 17:09:16 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 16:09:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
Message-ID: <a06240800c69534475924@[192.168.2.3]>

Casper ... 1957 TR3, 87mm pistons/liners, D cam, roller rockers, 
headers ... and Then !!!

Three blown head gaskets in 18 months ... Three rebuilt heads, tested 
up the wazoo, all pronounced "good"  The last two only lasted about 
500 miles each.  Up to the point they failed Casper was running 
great, temp never over 190 ... good power ... I am really losing it 
here, I have no idea what to do next.  Hopefully the list can at 
least point me in the right direction.

Thanks ...
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Jul 28 18:00:18 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 20:00:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c69534475924@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <a06240800c69534475924@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <200907282000.18831.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 28 July 2009 07:09:16 pm Bill wrote:
> Casper ... 1957 TR3, 87mm pistons/liners, D cam, roller rockers,
> headers ... and Then !!!
>
> Three blown head gaskets in 18 months ... Three rebuilt heads, tested
> up the wazoo, all pronounced "good"  The last two only lasted about
> 500 miles each.  Up to the point they failed Casper was running
> great, temp never over 190 ... good power ... I am really losing it
> here, I have no idea what to do next.  Hopefully the list can at
> least point me in the right direction.
>
> Thanks ...
Bill,

Did you say 3 different heads and still a blown head gasket.

Were the heads milled to increase compression?

When I have installed a new head gasket, I never have used any gasket sealer, 
just a light oiling never had a failure.

Where did the gasket blow, in the same spot?

Are the cylinder liners installed correctly? Is there the correct gap between 
the top of the liner and the block?

Could there be a warp in the block?

I have 87's in my 3 and 4 but with stock cam and rockers. I have never seen a 
blown head gasket in all my years with the 3 and 4 engines.

Are the heads showing damage after the gasket blows?

Maybe it is time to replace the head studs and nuts? Maybe they are stretched 
out and not allowing the even torque required. Are the correct washers being 
used?

Maybe it is time to use one of those solid copper gaskets used by the racing 
crowd?

Lots of questions but not many answers here Bill.

Bob

From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 28 19:00:47 2009
From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 18:00:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c69534475924@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <122326.18682.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

has your engine deck been check for high spots or dips?  i know this sounds
obvious, but it has been over looked before
Bryan
>
>   Hopefully the list can at least
> point me in the right direction.
>
> Thanks ...
> -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so
> few people undertake it." - Henry Ford
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3
> "Casper"
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as paradise.712002 at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Jul 28 19:33:50 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 18:33:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
In-Reply-To: <122326.18682.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <122326.18682.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A6FA6FE.4020306@gmail.com>

Bryan Loy wrote:
> has your engine deck been check for high spots or dips?  i know this sounds
> obvious, but it has been over looked before
> Bryan
>   
Slight differences in liner height can cause gaskets to blow & cause 
troubles.  Greg Solow had something to say about that which I captured 
in the net nuggets section of my web site:

www.tjwakeman.net/TR/Net_TRheadGasket.htm

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Jul 28 20:06:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 19:06:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c69534475924@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <20090729020623579.MHWO26619@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Three blown head gaskets in 18 months ... 

When I had that problem, it turned out that the liner tops were not square
to the surface of the block.  I had been measuring liner protrusion only on
one side (where of course it was OK).  Measuring to the other side showed
much less than the specified protrusion.  

The block was apparently at fault, as the problem persisted with two
different sets of liners and was always to the same side no matter how the
liners were turned.  

Since I was unwilling to replace the block at the time, I hit on the
solution of soldering a "fire ring" of .020" copper wire to the head gasket
around each cylinder.  It was intended as a temporary solution (while I
rebuilt another motor), but I wound up using it for over 10 years and never
had another head gasket leak.

The solder joint was not continuous, just tacks to hold the wire in place
during assembly and to join the overlapped ends of the wire.  I had expected
it to be difficult to get the gasket hot enough, but my 150 watt soldering
gun proved more than adequate for the task.  I used a Scotchbrite pad to
polish the areas where I was going to solder; and "electronic" (eutectic
rosin-core) lead/tin solder.  Ken Gillanders told me later that some of the
racers use Superglue instead of solder.

Another thing to check is the threads on your head studs.  It is apparently
not uncommon for them to distort just below the nut, which can cause binding
and insufficient clamping force when the head is replaced (especially if the
head has been shaved for increased compression).  The check is to clean the
threads and then spin a new hardware store nut down the threads.  It should
go all the way to the bottom easily.  If it binds about 2/3 down, the stud
is suspect and should be replaced.  I found 3 of mine that were bad.

Randall

From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jul 28 21:09:43 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 28 Jul 2009 22:09:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c69534475924@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <a06240800c69534475924@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <20090729031006.0ABB218765A@autox.team.net>

http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm
Sleeves section, items 1 through 4 apply here.  Use the stock style gasket.

The other notes on block irregularities and studs / nuts already sent 
to the list also apply.  I'm a big fan of the ARP head studs, lube 
the threads with the ARP lube, torque to 100 ft lbs in stages.

These old TRactor motors are pretty picky about stuff to keep that 
sucker sealed.

- Tony Drews

At 06:09 PM 7/28/2009, Bill wrote:
>Casper ... 1957 TR3, 87mm pistons/liners, D cam, roller rockers, 
>headers ... and Then !!!
>
>Three blown head gaskets in 18 months ... Three rebuilt heads, 
>tested up the wazoo, all pronounced "good"  The last two only lasted 
>about 500 miles each.  Up to the point they failed Casper was 
>running great, temp never over 190 ... good power ... I am really 
>losing it here, I have no idea what to do next.  Hopefully the list 
>can at least point me in the right direction.
>
>Thanks ...
>--
>"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
>undertake it." - Henry Ford
>Bill Pugh
>1957 TR3
>"Casper"
>TS16765L
>Wallace, CA
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Jul 29 06:00:12 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 08:00:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4A hood stowage and retractable seat belts...
Message-ID: <cf5.5733194c.37a193cc@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/28/2009 4:06:13 AM Central Daylight Time, 
t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz writes: 
>                  My question is....how and where does the hood go when 
> not in
> use. Surely it doesn't just sit on the back (seat) area! Is there a cover 
> for
> the stowed hood. The books I have are not too helpful on this subject.
>                   My other question concerns retracting seat belts. On my 
> '70
> MGBGT, there is an anchor nut on the top of the wheel arch which makes for
> easy mounting of a reel that allows the belt to exit horizontal. Not so on 
> the
> 4. Any suggestions please? My mate who is into servicing and racing Alfa
> Romeos has suggested an elaborate set up using a pipe between the wheel
> arches, with the reels mounted on that. I'm not too happy about that! 
> Hence
> the question about the hood stowage.
> 
> 
Sorry for the delay in responding.  I'm not all that familiar with TR4A's 
but as I recall that model had the new folding top later used on the TR6.  If 
that's the case the hood sticks will all fold up and lay just below cockpit 
level at the rear of the opening.  I usually unzip the window (yours may 
not or should not have the zipper) and let it lay flat against the rear 
bulkhead, fold the sticks down and then fold the top with the canvas laying across 
the boot.  Then I fold the canvas over the over the hood sticks folding the 
quarter lights carefully so as not to crease them.  Then I snap my tonneau 
in place at the back and stuff the bulk of it behind the seats.

If you have a TR4 type hood the procedure is significantly different.  
There you take the canvas off all together and fold it up and place it in the 
boot.  The hood sticks fold up similar as described above and a special flap 
snaps over them concealing them from sight.

Here in the US these cars were not fitted with retracting seat belts until 
about 1973.  I retrofitted a later set into my 71 TR6.  In this case there 
was a weld nut near the top of the rear wheel arch for the normal, 
non-retracting shoulder belt but there was no weld nut near the rear shelf as was the 
case for the later models.  I drilled a hole and fitted a bolt with a large 
shoulder washer for that attachment.

In your case your car may not have had even the shoulder belt so you may 
not have the weld nut near the top of the wheel arch nor the one near the rear 
shelf.  The best thing to do, if possible or convenient, is to find a late 
model TR6 and take measurements.  Failing that someone on the list (maybe 
even me  ;-)  ) can take some pix and measurements and send them on.

Cheers, mate,

Dave

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 29 08:00:09 2009
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (mgowen55 at hotmail.com)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 10:00:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A hood stowage and retractable seat belts...
In-Reply-To: <cf5.5733194c.37a193cc@cs.com>
References: <cf5.5733194c.37a193cc@cs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-DS23A6CFF1DE7EB23E46F3CDD6120@phx.gbl>

Dave's description on the top stowage is spot on. If you have an owner's 
manual, it has a pictorial that shows the process quite well. Reprints of 
the owner's manual are readily available from a number of sources for about 
$15 US.
Sorry, can't help with the retractable seat belt question.
Glenn


> Sorry for the delay in responding.  I'm not all that familiar with TR4A's
> but as I recall that model had the new folding top later used on the TR6. 
> If
> that's the case the hood sticks will all fold up and lay just below 
> cockpit
> level at the rear of the opening.  I usually unzip the window (yours may
> not or should not have the zipper) and let it lay flat against the rear
> bulkhead, fold the sticks down and then fold the top with the canvas 
> laying across
> the boot.  Then I fold the canvas over the over the hood sticks folding 
> the
> quarter lights carefully so as not to crease them.  Then I snap my tonneau
> in place at the back and stuff the bulk of it behind the seats.
>
> If you have a TR4 type hood the procedure is significantly different.
> There you take the canvas off all together and fold it up and place it in 
> the
> boot.  The hood sticks fold up similar as described above and a special 
> flap
> snaps over them concealing them from sight.
>
> Here in the US these cars were not fitted with retracting seat belts until
> about 1973.  I retrofitted a later set into my 71 TR6.  In this case there
> was a weld nut near the top of the rear wheel arch for the normal,
> non-retracting shoulder belt but there was no weld nut near the rear shelf 
> as was the
> case for the later models.  I drilled a hole and fitted a bolt with a 
> large
> shoulder washer for that attachment.
>
> In your case your car may not have had even the shoulder belt so you may
> not have the weld nut near the top of the wheel arch nor the one near the 
> rear
> shelf.  The best thing to do, if possible or convenient, is to find a late
> model TR6 and take measurements.  Failing that someone on the list (maybe
> even me  ;-)  ) can take some pix and measurements and send them on.

From dbyam at tds.net  Wed Jul 29 13:22:22 2009
From: dbyam at tds.net (dbyam tds.net)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:22:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR-4A Shoulder beltw
Message-ID: <cfed47190907291222o3531d6cxb1daa9ae9b11a882@mail.gmail.com>

This topic has been covered in detail in previous posts. I did convert my
TR-4A to a shoulder belt setup. I selected a spot at the top of the wheel
arch by measuring the mounting on a TR-250. I drilled a hole for the bolt
and then used the bolt to pull up a 10 ga. doubler that I had pounded out.
All the upholstery was out of the car so it was easy to weld skip weld the
edges of the doubler to the wheel arch.

My car had a factory mounting nut at the lower end of the B post for
mounting the factory seat belt. I used this fitting to mount my Reel. The
belt is a little tight on the top of the shoulder but I've managed to live
with it for 10M plus miles. It doesn't seem to interfere with the lowered
top.

Good luck with your installation!

Doug Byam

From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 29 13:55:36 2009
From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:55:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] Re- Head gasket blowing
Message-ID: <000401ca1086$8cd371d0$a67a5570$@net>

After mine blew, I had the head reconditioned (new valves, springs etc) and
skimmed.  I used a new (Moss) head gasket and sprayed on that copper stuff.
Put in all back together to the best of my ability (never done anything like
this before).  Unfortunately, I could still see steam in the exhaust.

 

Randall saved my butt again by suggesting Yamabond (found at Yamaha
motorbike shops) on the head gasket.  That must have been 8 years ago and
the ole girl is still running strong.

 

Keep the faith,

 

Adrian

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 29 15:18:27 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 14:18:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] head gasket/idle miss
Message-ID: <198445.26236.qm@web59413.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I was reading the posts on head gasket problems and wondered if head gasket
leak could be the  reason for a miss at idle.  Reasoning being water in the
cylinder might make a miss at idle but not enough to make it miss pulling to
higher rpm.  I don't see steam in exhaust but do see very small droplets of
water on inside windshield and mirror...............thinking it might be from
exhaust blowing back?  Engine has 300 miles on overhaul and pulls/runs awesome
off idle. 

Little mechanical experience here and just interested in others
opinion.

gary n.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 16:26:09 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:26:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] head gasket/idle miss
In-Reply-To: <198445.26236.qm@web59413.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <198445.26236.qm@web59413.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0907291526r5700472odae44d857400faf5@mail.gmail.com>

On 7/29/09, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:
> ...I don't see steam in exhaust but do see very small droplets of
> water on inside windshield and mirror...

Anytine I've had coolant in the exhaust I smelled it rather than saw it.

Geo

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 29 16:49:07 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 15:49:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tr4 - first drive - Webers
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10907291549u4b6a03c7h33b5564121c4e740@mail.gmail.com>

Well...

My first drive in the new TR4 was exhilarating - the rebuilt engine with the
Webers sounds and behaves like an animal. In a good sense. Maybe a bit too
loud for my taste, but amazing pull in the higher revs. I had my wife follow
me on my this my first highway drive just to be sure. Surprisingly tight for
an over 200000 mile car, and there's no record of a suspension overhaul.
My own rebushing of the steering column makes a huge difference, and was
easy with the dash off. Brakes aren't right yet but they'll come.

About the Webers:

They sound very noisy at low revs compared to my old Strombergs. A metallic
tapping. Goes away as the revs increase. Is this kind of noise normal?

I don't have the chokes attached because the cable that came with doesn't
have a long enough inner wire to reach the front carb. Is a stock TR4 cable
long enough? if so, I presume the cable casing in attached to the rear carb
and the wire then engages both choke levers, so that the casing has to be
cut back?

Thanks for your help

John Howard

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Jul 29 20:20:58 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:20:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] head gasket/idle miss
In-Reply-To: <198445.26236.qm@web59413.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090730022058535.LVXN557@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> wondered if head gasket
> leak could be the  reason for a miss at idle.

Unlikely, IMO.  A little bit of water won't make it misfire, and enough to
cause a problem would quickly be noticed due to overheating.  

>   I don't see steam in exhaust but do see very small droplets
> of
> water on inside windshield and mirror...............thinking it might be
> from
> exhaust blowing back?

Worth noting that exhaust normally contains a fair amount of water, as it's
produced by the combustion process.  Look at almost any car soon after it's
been started from cold, and you'll see water dripping from the tailpipe.
Once the exhaust system gets hot, though, the water comes out as invisible
vapor.

> Little mechanical experience here and just interested in others
> opinion.

If you really want to know for certain, there is a simple test that any
radiator shop can do for you.  Takes only a few minutes, and my shop charged
me less than $20.

But IMO there are lots of more likely causes.

Randall

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Jul 29 22:36:55 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 29 Jul 2009 21:36:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
Message-ID: <784653.57306.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Casper ... 1957 TR3, 87mm pistons/liners, D cam, roller rockers,
headers ... and Then !!!

Three blown head gaskets in 18 months ...

     I used special new nuts from BF&E that were 50% thicker than original.
Ken Gillanders claimed they prevent torque changing which causes blown head
gaskets. I bet your problem is studs & nuts.

     Bill in Tehachapi
     Still trying to get that center bolts out of the windshield bracket...

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 30 10:48:16 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 09:48:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
In-Reply-To: <784653.57306.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <784653.57306.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <65ADE80818BB4A2E831D4F045C88337C@jdnet.deere.com>

>      I used special new nuts from BF&E that were 50% thicker than
> original.

I got those same nuts from Ken.  They look trick, but he later told me that
a mechanical engineer had told him that they don't actually help any.  I
couldn't tell that they made any difference either.

When you torque the nuts, the stud stretches slightly (hopefully in a
non-permanent fashion, known as elastic deformation).  This means that the
bottom few threads of the nut wind up taking all of the load.  Once the nut
height has reached about the thickness of the stud/bolt, the rest of the nut
(if any) is basically still loose on the threads.

-- Randall 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 30 12:30:56 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 11:30:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] timing chain noise?
Message-ID: <214920.68007.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Does anyone else hear timing chain noise on they're cars?  (tr-6)  I never
noticed it on the old engine but have noticed it on this fresh engine with new
chain and sprockets.  It's a nice sound, kind of a steely whir and not
objectionable at all.  I'm sure I have the sprockets aligned well.  

Just
wondering.

also thanks for the responses to my head gasket concerns.

gary n.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jul 30 12:59:54 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 13:59:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!
References: <784653.57306.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<65ADE80818BB4A2E831D4F045C88337C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <D3D79FCD5FB4428DBB39A1EA44F9F60D@ranteer.local>

i was told that the thicker nuts are better because they allow you to get a 
better grip with a torque wrench and a more accurate reading


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2009 11:48 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] $#%$^%^!!!!


>>      I used special new nuts from BF&E that were 50% thicker than
>> original.
>
> I got those same nuts from Ken.  They look trick, but he later told me 
> that
> a mechanical engineer had told him that they don't actually help any.  I
> couldn't tell that they made any difference either.
>
> When you torque the nuts, the stud stretches slightly (hopefully in a
> non-permanent fashion, known as elastic deformation).  This means that the
> bottom few threads of the nut wind up taking all of the load.  Once the 
> nut
> height has reached about the thickness of the stud/bolt, the rest of the 
> nut
> (if any) is basically still loose on the threads.

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu Jul 30 14:09:49 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:09:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] timing chain noise?
Message-ID: <c11.32157421.37a3580d@aol.com>

Gary,
 
I can't remember ever distinctly hearing the timing chain on a new  
engine......"old" engines can be another story as the tensioner gets groves in  it. 
 Since it is a fresh engine, any chance that you're hearing a dry  bushing 
water pump or an alternator or drive belt squeal?
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 7/30/2009 2:33:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:

It's a  nice sound, kind of a steely whir 

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From tdskip at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 30 16:58:47 2009
From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 15:58:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Sharing cost of Plasma Cutter - SoCal
Message-ID: <160581.43153.qm@web55602.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Anyone in SoCal interested in sharing the cost of a Plasma Cutter? I found a good unit that will run off house power for $500. I am in Orange County. If you have ever used one it is a religious experience compared to a Sawzall or cutting disk.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Jul 30 17:46:01 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:46:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sharing cost of Plasma Cutter - SoCal
In-Reply-To: <160581.43153.qm@web55602.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A71F879.20853.5DA91A0F@localhost>

On 30 Jul 2009 at 15:58, Tom Deutsch wrote:

> Anyone in SoCal interested in sharing the cost of a Plasma Cutter?

It's been ages since I've had to cut any plasma.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3a at comcast.net  Thu Jul 30 18:10:39 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 20:10:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sharing cost of Plasma Cutter - SoCal
In-Reply-To: <4A71F879.20853.5DA91A0F@localhost>
References: <4A71F879.20853.5DA91A0F@localhost>
Message-ID: <54E2D552-EBCE-4721-B70C-018370B785D5@comcast.net>

Read this and thought for sure Dave Massey wrote it. :) Sorry, Dave.

Now back to your regularly scheduled programming.....

PS: I almost bought a plasma cutter a while back, but just couldn't  
justify the cost. If I DID buy, it would be a Hypertherm Powermax 30  
or 45.

On Jul 30, 2009, at 7:46 PM, Jim Muller wrote:
>
> It's been ages since I've had to cut any plasma.
>
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 30 18:12:19 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 17:12:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Sharing cost of Plasma Cutter - SoCal
In-Reply-To: <160581.43153.qm@web55602.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090731001218101.OBDH18482@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> If you have ever used one it is a religious experience compared to a
> Sawzall or cutting disk.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6W3tLDBdPQQ

Randall

From jimbpps at cox.net  Thu Jul 30 19:09:20 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 18:09:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Upcoming Trip
Message-ID: <33B2D2E43FBD42A299534FFD0035FC93@JimofficePC>

Listers and friends,

On Tuesday of next week I am heading to Redmond ,OR from my home in Scottsdale,
AZ in my TR250 to attend the All Triumph Drive-In hosted by the Portland Triumph
Club. John and Matt Reynolds of DCTRA are going to travel with me in Matt's
recently restored TR6. We plan on taking it easy with three stops on the way up.
After ATDI I plan on staying at my brother's in Vancouver, WA and attending a
bunch of car shows and events until John Macartney arrives from British
Columbia, via Seattle. John is going to stay at my brother's home and then we
will all caravan down to the Triumph Travelers in San Francisco and then on to
San Louis Obispo for the Triumphest/VTR. I am really looking forward to that!!

Tomorrow afternoon, I will be signing off of the TR List until mid-Oct. I will
be sending emails via laptop to DCTRA and a few friends, but unfortunately,
won't be able to handle the volume of list traffic!

So wish me luck on the road, about 2800 miles, and 7 weeks!

Take care,

Jim

Jim Bauder
Cell: 480-309-9525
'68 TR250 CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Jul 30 19:08:29 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 21:08:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Upcoming Trip
References: <33B2D2E43FBD42A299534FFD0035FC93@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <810DBF4EC1234A06A7E27721725A2140@DCS78M81>

Sounds like a wonderful trip. Give my best to John and have a wonderful 
trip.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Bauder" <jimbpps at cox.net>
To: "TR List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 30, 2009 9:09 PM
Subject: [TR] Upcoming Trip


> Listers and friends,
>
> On Tuesday of next week I am heading to Redmond ,OR from my home in 
> Scottsdale,
> AZ in my TR250 to attend the All Triumph Drive-In hosted by the Portland 
> Triumph
> Club. John and Matt Reynolds of DCTRA are going to travel with me in 
> Matt's
> recently restored TR6. We plan on taking it easy with three stops on the 
> way up.
> After ATDI I plan on staying at my brother's in Vancouver, WA and 
> attending a
> bunch of car shows and events until John Macartney arrives from British
> Columbia, via Seattle. John is going to stay at my brother's home and then 
> we
> will all caravan down to the Triumph Travelers in San Francisco and then 
> on to
> San Louis Obispo for the Triumphest/VTR. I am really looking forward to 
> that!!
>
> Tomorrow afternoon, I will be signing off of the TR List until mid-Oct. I 
> will
> be sending emails via laptop to DCTRA and a few friends, but 
> unfortunately,
> won't be able to handle the volume of list traffic!
>
> So wish me luck on the road, about 2800 miles, and 7 weeks!
>
> Take care,
>
> Jim
>
> Jim Bauder
> Cell: 480-309-9525
> '68 TR250 CD47L
> Scottsdale, AZ
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 30 19:44:10 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 21:44:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Sharing cost of Plasma Cutter - SoCal
Message-ID: <d34.521805b4.37a3a66a@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/30/2009 6:48:47 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> It's been ages since I've had to cut any plasma.
> 
I cut my plasma with with a little rum from time to time.

Vlad the Impaler

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Jul 30 19:46:12 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 21:46:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] Sharing cost of Plasma Cutter - SoCal
Message-ID: <ca1.5dbedba5.37a3a6e4@cs.com>

In a message dated 7/30/2009 7:10:59 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3a at comcast.net writes: 
> Read this and thought for sure Dave Massey wrote it. :) Sorry, Dave.
> 
Wish I had.

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Jul 30 22:18:44 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2009 21:18:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Upcoming Trip
In-Reply-To: <33B2D2E43FBD42A299534FFD0035FC93@JimofficePC>
Message-ID: <20090731041844892.WIPF557@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> I am really looking forward to
> that!!

Sounds wonderful, Jim, wish I could tag along.  Alas, I still have to work
for a living.

> Tomorrow afternoon, I will be signing off of the TR List until mid-Oct. 

FWIW, instead of unsubscribing; if you want to, you can go to 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs
and, after signing into your account, just turn off mail delivery
temporarily.  That would allow you to make posts to the list from your
laptop and keep the rest of us updated; though of course you wouldn't see
the list traffic yourself.

Randall

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Fri Jul 31 03:27:34 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 11:27:34 +0200
Subject: [TR] Can anyone help?
Message-ID: <9A0996E469AA45A4B6E5FEDAA94722C6@Study>

In April 2001 I did a write up on  installing "Electric Fans in TR's". It 
aroused quite a bit of interest and around 20 or so listers requested a copy 
so I duly sent one to all.

Now lister Greg Schuett would like a copy of this but I find my article and 
the forwardings are probably on an old disc which I don't have the skill to 
disinter!

If anyone could forward this to me  and Greg off list it would be great.

BTW the fan set up is still working well!

David Brister
1967TR4A



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I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
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From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Fri Jul 31 09:37:25 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 09:37:25 -0600
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag (a.k.a. "Uncle Jack") and John Macartney renter US of
 A- visa SOLVED
Message-ID: <4A730FB5.9050001@triumphstagclub.org>

Hello All,

Well against opinions to the contrary, John Macartney of Ex-Triumph 
fame, driving the Triumph Trans AmeriCan STTAG (the car is also known as 
"Uncle Jack" in Honor of the Memory of FOT Racer Jack Drews) have 
successfully crossed back into the USA, totally without incident or 
delay, and after a very successful hosting with the Toronto area Triumph 
Club and raising funds for Anxiety Disorders of Canada and the other 
charities!!  Thank you Ontario Triumphs, and all the hosts and host 
clubs for all your support and help!

The newsflash is, John now has his visa extended via his "new" I-94 form 
until 30 October!!  Visa issue SOLVED for the duration of the drive!!!
 
What does this mean for North American Triumph (and all British Car) 
drivers? 
It means, get your cars on the road to meet up with John over then next 
9 weeks on this first of its kind  epic journey to Triumphest / North 
American Triumph Challenge 2009 in San Luis Obispo.  There are many 
folks planning on caravaning with John on the last leg down the Pacific 
Coast Highway to SLO, this will be one of the greatest caravans of 
Triumphs EVER!!  I am currently tallying all the Triumphs that have 
participated in some part of this drive and hope to have tallies ready 
by SLO.

This Weekend, BIG PARTY AT ISOA!!!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TTA North American Charity Drive Coordinator 2009
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Fri Jul 31 20:17:19 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Sat, 01 Aug 2009 14:17:19 +1200
Subject: [TR] First 4A drive....
Message-ID: <33BEEEA7DF87419B970DC71FF0FF06B8@DRESANPC>

Hi Listers....

                    I guess the heading is not strictly true.....I did drive
it down from Auckland to my home in Feilding, some 350-400 miles before I
started the restoration. Anyway, that was some three years sgo. Since then
it's been worked on slowly, and yesterday, Friday 31 July, I picked it up from
my mates little garage, where he had been working on brake plumbing. The seat
was an old Mini wheel and tyre, No Warrant of Fitness, No registration, no
windscreen, no doors, no instruments! If I had been picked up by the Law, I
would have been in deep DooDoo!! However, it ran sweetly, and dare I say it,
with a bit more grunt than my MGB!! It's back home in my basement for final
work, and with our summer commencing around  December, it'll be good to go!
                   There is a law here that says that copper brake lines are
no longer permitted, so my mate who has all the appropriate benders got the
job of creating the new lines necessary for the booster fit. Unfortunately,
the second-hand booster I obtained was not good, so the system is temporarily
back to standard. Another mate told me that he has a spare booster that I can
have, so I'll try that. In the meantime, there's plenty to keep me occupied.
                    Wife and I are off on a month-long trip back to Singapore,
Malaysia, and Western Australia in three weeks, so there won't be anything
done for a little while.

                            In the meantime......keep those Trumps rolling!!!

                    Best Regards....

                                Trev. Hardy......Feilding, New Zealand


                                        '65 TR4A.