[TR] MIG Welders

[Brian Induni]

I can attest to the Miller products - great welders! I've had my Miller 135
for years and it's done everything I've wanted it to. After using a Sears
stick welder I bought in High School (30 years ago) using a wire feed gun
and no splatter is pure pleasure! The 135 is on the lower (maybe even the
lowest) end of Miller's welders, but it far exceeded my expectations. There
is some trial and error set up required when welding thinner gauge metal,
like sheet, but I've found that if you spot weld and do short stitches it
works well. Also, if you're having burn thru problems, try backing the weld
area with copper (I use a flattened copper pipe) to dissipate the heat.
Works well for filling in pin holes too as the weld doesn't stick to the
copper.

My ONLY regret is that I didn't get a welder I could use a spool gun on.
This would have expanded the use of the machine. When looking at a MIG
welder, see if it can take a spool gun and buy it with the machine - you'll
be happy you did!

Brian
1967 TR4A (waiting for spring!)

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Message: 5
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:13:16 -0500
From: Michael Ferguson <tr3a at comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] MIG Welders
To: triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4975171C.2000508 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Hi guys. Awhile back, I bought a used Craftsman 110v, 75a (max) MIG. 
Also bought the Argon/CO2 cylinder and some .023 solid wire. I'm trying 
to use it for 20 ga mild steel for bodywork on my TR restoration 
project. If I try anything other than a tack weld, burn through is a 
distinct possibility...and ugly, sloppy welds are a given!  And yes, the 
polarity is correct. So, since MIG is supposed to be relatively simple 
to learn - and I can't seem to - I have come to the conclusion that the 
problem is with the welder, not the operator. Could be wrong, but I'm 
working on my self esteem. :^)

In any case, I am giving up...time for a new welder. I have narrowed it 
down to the Millermatic 180, the new (available soon) dual voltage 
Miller 211or perhaps the Hobart Handler 187 or 210. I know I can get by 
with less amperage (and less $$$) for sheet metal work, but if I manage 
to learn how to use it, I figured more might be better than less for 
whatever else I dream up.

Miller is supposed to be top shelf and Hobart is basically the "consumer 
line" (separate companies, but both owned by Illinois Tool Works). I 
gather that both produce excellent results, but that the Millers are 
better made machines. I was wondering what the rest of you use for your 
restoration projects (or whatever). If you had to do it again, would you 
buy the same unit? Do you have other brands/models that you like?

I'm leaning towards the MM180, in large part because it's available 
locally from a real welding supply store. Around here, the Hobart is 
sold only by Tractor Supply. I would really appreciate your comments or 
recommendations. Thanks very much!!

Fergie
1959 TR3A  TS53990L(0)