From cm.sherman at verizon.net Thu Jan 1 07:57:51 2009 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 14:57:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] Happy New Year Message-ID: <677586770-1230821824-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1012540125-@bxe034.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> F a n t a s t i c ! Always great to hear a such a happy ending. All the best to you and the rest of the list... Happy, healthy and wealthy 2009. Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 1 08:02:02 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 15:02:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A starter In-Reply-To: <20090101044908.VFLM13308.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090101044908.VFLM13308.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: When I was chasing an electrical problem my engine builder recommended that I ground the battery to the frame. I ran a ground cable from the battery to a nut I welded on my frame and bolted through the cable end. I also have ground straps from the engine to the body and the frame. No more intermittent electrical problems. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Life on your PC is safer, easier, and more enjoyable with Windows Vista.. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/127032870/direct/01/ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Jan 1 08:07:28 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 15:07:28 -0000 Subject: [TR] Stuff References: <495B87D8.7060009@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <8871B1CEDF674ABD81950DD56D9A1C93@Bevan> > For $100 or less it would be easier for me just to bend the TR3 hard top so it will fit the back > of my Land Rover and drop it off at the local recycler next time I'm driving past. I can do that > on my own schedule. > > I had no idea that TR3A factory hard tops were so common. > I'll probably do that to my spare TR3 overdrive gearbox and the TR3 lug wrench. When you are > trying to move a household on a short notice, just shedding bulk of stuff to be moved can be very > important. C'mon guys, what's the betting that sometime soon, someone will appear on this list wanting a TR3 hardtop, a gearbox and an overdrive? Mr. Schumacher??? For stock? Jonmac From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jan 1 08:39:31 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 01 Jan 2009 10:39:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stuff In-Reply-To: <8871B1CEDF674ABD81950DD56D9A1C93@Bevan> Message-ID: <495C9D63.27761.134DD5@localhost> On 1 Jan 2009 at 15:07, John Macartney wrote: > C'mon guys, what's the betting that sometime soon, someone will > appear on this list wanting a TR3 hardtop, a gearbox and an > overdrive? Mr. Schumacher??? For stock? I need none of those, but I'm trying to find a NOS clunk to install in a TR6 rear end. First I need the TR6. Plus I'm pondering the difference between DOT4 and DOT5 and special gear oil. And something about a silent bloc somethingorother. Can I switch a negative ground car over to positive ground without violating its originalty? And what color powdercoating is best for the inside of the engine block? Thanks. Happy New Year, everyone. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Jan 1 10:58:15 2009 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 09:58:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Mark IV fuel tank Message-ID: <517C99256B354F6C990B30AB3F008E7E@DowKKXX5RXWD9> We have new club member that is in the process of restoring a '72 Spitfire Mark IV. He is need of a good used fuel tank. His current one is like Swiss cheese on top of the tank and the seams are rusted through.He said the only the only new ones that seem available are for other Spit models. He did not want to make the conversion and switch the emission vent tubes to adapt to the new non stock tank from the other Spit models. If he is force to go with a non stock tank, can the fuel canister be removed with the fuel vent recovery hoses removed as well. What effect will that have emission controls. He has a downdraft Weber conversion on a stock Spitfire engine. Any insight on parts location and some tech advice would be helpful. Regards, Ibsen Dow '59 TR3A '71 TR6 '79 Spit D-Mod SCCA From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 1 11:04:19 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 11:04:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mark IV fuel tank In-Reply-To: <517C99256B354F6C990B30AB3F008E7E@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <517C99256B354F6C990B30AB3F008E7E@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <83E0D76A97C842D8BA456F22B001D78F@newcomputer> Rimmer lists two tanks for the MkIV. One original and an aluminum one. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/triumph/spitfire/fuel#Fuel%20Tank%20&%20F ittings -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ibsen Dow Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 10:58 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Mark IV fuel tank We have new club member that is in the process of restoring a '72 Spitfire Mark IV. He is need of a good used fuel tank. His current one is like Swiss cheese on top of the tank and the seams are rusted through.He said the only the only new ones that seem available are for other Spit models. He did not want to make the conversion and switch the emission vent tubes to adapt to the new non stock tank from the other Spit models. If he is force to go with a non stock tank, can the fuel canister be removed with the fuel vent recovery hoses removed as well. What effect will that have emission controls. He has a downdraft Weber conversion on a stock Spitfire engine. Any insight on parts location and some tech advice would be helpful. Regards, Ibsen Dow '59 TR3A '71 TR6 '79 Spit D-Mod SCCA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Jan 1 12:08:26 2009 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 11:08:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] Mark IV fuel tank References: <517C99256B354F6C990B30AB3F008E7E@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <0D96CDC3A00C4142B57531078DA8DBD5@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Joe, It usually finishes in the middle of the pack in the runs. It is a 1.5 liter full race prepared and dyno tuned to 87 hp. Car weighs approx 1300+lb. with 8" alloy wheels and tires and upgraded suspension works. Not as competitive as it could be if I were running a 2 liter GT 6 engine and was a better driver, and technician. With your reputation you probably could greatly improve this car, but I am on a tight budget this year due to our tight economy. I could put in a more modern engine i.e. Honda to keep up with the faster guys, but I am a Triumph fan, so I haven't gone that direction. My God forbids it. P.S. I sent you a pic of the car. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Curry To: 'Ibsen Dow' Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 10:14 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Mark IV fuel tank I see you have listed a DM Spitfire in your list of Triumphs. Having previously spent more money that I care to count trying to make a Spitfire competitive in DM, I am wondering how competitive yours is. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ibsen Dow Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 10:58 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Mark IV fuel tank We have new club member that is in the process of restoring a '72 Spitfire Mark IV. He is need of a good used fuel tank. His current one is like Swiss cheese on top of the tank and the seams are rusted through.He said the only the only new ones that seem available are for other Spit models. He did not want to make the conversion and switch the emission vent tubes to adapt to the new non stock tank from the other Spit models. If he is force to go with a non stock tank, can the fuel canister be removed with the fuel vent recovery hoses removed as well. What effect will that have emission controls. He has a downdraft Weber conversion on a stock Spitfire engine. Any insight on parts location and some tech advice would be helpful. Regards, Ibsen Dow '59 TR3A '71 TR6 '79 Spit D-Mod SCCA _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 1 19:46:35 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 18:46:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A starter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090102024634.JHLN13308.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > When I was chasing an electrical problem my engine builder > recommended that I ground the battery to the frame. I ran a > ground cable from the battery to a nut I welded on my frame > and bolted through the cable end. I also have ground straps > from the engine to the body and the frame. No more > intermittent electrical problems. That would work. But silly me, I just scraped the paint off the factory connections. That works too. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Jan 1 19:49:37 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 21:49:37 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A starter Message-ID: In a message dated 1/1/2009 6:47:20 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > When I was chasing an electrical problem my engine builder > recommended that I ground the battery to the frame. I ran a > ground cable from the battery to a nut I welded on my frame > and bolted through the cable end. I also have ground straps > from the engine to the body and the frame. No more > intermittent electrical problems. That would work. But silly me, I just scraped the paint off the factory connections. That works too. Randall Randall, I am shocked-absolutely shocked! You are implying it might have worked the way the factory engineers designed it! :-) Mike Moore Engineering Manager CL Moore & Associates, Inc. 17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill, California 95037 408-782-1272 fax 408-782-1372 **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 2 05:13:10 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 07:13:10 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A starter Message-ID: In a message dated 1/1/2009 9:47:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: I just scraped the paint off the factory connections. This, I have done. But it occurred to me that the battery grounds to the body and the motor grounds to the chassis and the body mounts are all rubber so the bolt passing through the body to the threads in the chassis are the link between the two. I did not have the foresight to make sure there was at least one unpainted connection in the body mounts and I did not chase the threads in the chassis with a tap. Might this be the source of the problem, or am I missing something? I am going to clamp a hard ground with jumpers to the starter and see what happens. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 2 06:40:39 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 08:40:39 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A starter Message-ID: It appears that it is the starter. The ground can be improved as when I connect the starter bolt directly to the battery ground, the starter comes to life more but the "flat spot' is still there. It makes a partial rotation and dies and then cranks well. I also jumped across the solenoid to eliminate it from the circuit and it does the same thing FT, I will see if I can catch Santa but I am pretty sure he is out of the neighborhood by now. I may have to live with it for a while. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Fri Jan 2 10:12:04 2009 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 12:12:04 EST Subject: [TR] Early Spit or GT6 Front Valence Needed Message-ID: A friend is in need of a decent front valence for his 1966 Mk II Spitfire Vintage Racer. As such, it cannot be a spoiler or air dam, just the stock valence. It can be lumpy but not too rusty. What are the chances that someone out there might have one to spare? Of course he can pay for the part and shipping. Thanks! George Haynes ************** Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Jan 2 11:10:18 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 18:10:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Spitfire fuel tank In-Reply-To: <1793979441.1699891230840038609.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1503911328.1826541230919818633.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> While I don't have the later Spitfire fuel tank, IB do have the early drain feed (up to chassis no FH50000).B It was in my TR3 when I got it.B I I restored it before I found out it was the wrong one (when I tried to put it back in).B POR-15 exterior, cleaned, flushed interior.B Pretty much mint except the wrong one for my car! Let me know if anyone on the ListB is interested before I put it on E-Bay.B Say, $100 counting shipping?B That's about half-price new. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New HampshireB From FGFO1 at aol.com Fri Jan 2 17:24:07 2009 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 19:24:07 EST Subject: [TR] spitfire bonnet Message-ID: hi folks And happy new year to all. Just had a friend call me and is looking for some information on a spitfire. He needs to know the dimension from the back of the bonnet to the chrome hold down clamps. i hope it didn't change with every year of car thanks Frank Fisher **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From rbtr3a at cox.net Fri Jan 2 21:53:25 2009 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (Ronnie Babbitt) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 23:53:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: This is a test From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Fri Jan 2 22:02:54 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 23:02:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] test In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Did we pass?Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!> From: rbtr3a at cox.net> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 23:53:25 -0500> Subject: [TR] test> > This is a test> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 3 06:30:25 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 08:30:25 EST Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: In a message dated 1/2/2009 11:55:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, rbtr3a at cox.net writes: This is a test Now that is not fair! Last night I tossed and turned with that dream of how I had not been to class all semester! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Jan 3 06:35:11 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 13:35:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Ball Joints In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <416204499.1923871230989711383.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Well, Randall was right.B (Wait, is that a redundancy in terms????)B The Roadster Factory makes their own ball joint boots.B Can only be better than what I had.B Ordered four and will install and monitor. New question:B When I disconnected the ball joints, I seem to have dinged up the little washer like gizmos that slide off the shaft.B Do I have to replace the whole ball joint, or can I get along without these?B It's only the taper on the shaft endB that seats the ball joint, right? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 3 06:37:54 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 08:37:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma Message-ID: Oh math/physics/engineer gurus..........Here's my question.... Goodparts CVJs specify that the 1-1/4" axle nut be torqued to 220-250 lbs. My audible click-type torque wrench maxes out at 150 lbs. It's been suggested that 160 lb me standing on the end of an 18" breaker bar would exert about that torque. I like this idea. Richard Good told me that setting the wrench at 125 lbs and putting a 24" pipe over it would yield about the right force. Then I found these two formulas http://tinyurl.com/97faw7 & http://tinyurl.com/774vwv which appear to work math-wise but where does the extension go? Between the nut and the drive end of the wrench or can you just slide a pipe over the wrench handle to extend it? I've also heard that most shops would just hit it with their impact wrench and call it a day. These are CVJs and the 1-1/4" nut is an all steel grade 8 locking nut. So....what's the best way to accomplish this....and buying a $200 torque wrench is not the answer though I may just rent one if necessary. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 3 06:46:39 2009 From: wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net (William Babbitt) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 05:46:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <375098.12975.qm@web81005.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Bob, Yes, 160 lbs of you on the end of an 18" breaker bar will result in about 240 ft-lbs of torque. However, setting your torque wrench at 125 ft-lbs and extending the handle to 24" will only make it easier for you to get to 125 ft-lbs. The torque wrench doesn't care what you do with the handle length. So...... Go ahead and step on that breaker bar. I had to do the same thing for the rear axle nut on my TVR 280i. It worked just fine. thanks, Bill Babbitt Gales Ferry, CT TR3a, TVR 280i --- On Sat, 1/3/09, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, January 3, 2009, 8:37 AM Oh math/physics/engineer gurus..........Here's my question.... Goodparts CVJs specify that the 1-1/4" axle nut be torqued to 220-250 lbs. My audible click-type torque wrench maxes out at 150 lbs. It's been suggested that 160 lb me standing on the end of an 18" breaker bar would exert about that torque. I like this idea. Richard Good told me that setting the wrench at 125 lbs and putting a 24" pipe over it would yield about the right force. Then I found these two formulas http://tinyurl.com/97faw7 & http://tinyurl.com/774vwv which appear to work math-wise but where does the extension go? Between the nut and the drive end of the wrench or can you just slide a pipe over the wrench handle to extend it? I've also heard that most shops would just hit it with their impact wrench and call it a day. These are CVJs and the 1-1/4" nut is an all steel grade 8 locking nut. So....what's the best way to accomplish this....and buying a $200 torque wrench is not the answer though I may just rent one if necessary. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbabbitt at sbcglobal.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 3 07:07:33 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 09:07:33 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma Message-ID: That was my same thought. You can make the handle 6' long if you want and when it gets to 150 lbs, it is going to click. There is no indication that you have gotten to 250 lbs or whatever it is you are looking for. Are you suggesting that you apply a 160 lb you on the end of the 18" bar until the nut won't turn anymore? I think that is what you are saying. Why risk buggering up your torque wrench? Just use a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a pipe over the end if that's where we are going. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jan 3 07:10:19 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 09:10:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma In-Reply-To: <375098.12975.qm@web81005.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: Message-ID: <495F2B7B.27896.A0E5D4A@localhost> On 3 Jan 2009 at 5:46, William Babbitt wrote: > The torque wrench > doesn't care what you do with the handle length Unless you stand on the end of the handle and it breaks. At that point it will briefly care a great deal, and afterwards care about nothing at all. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 3 07:24:12 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 09:24:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Then I found these two formulas http://tinyurl.com/97faw7 &> http://tinyurl.com/774vwv which appear to work math-wise but where does the> extension go? Between the nut and the drive end of the wrench or can you> just slide a pipe over the wrench handle to extend it?> Bob Between the nut and the wrench. And it has to be straight along the axis of the wrench. And stout! John From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 3 09:58:36 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 08:58:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > It's been suggested that 160 lb me standing on the end of an > 18" breaker bar would exert about that torque. I like this idea. You'll probably like it less when the socket slips off. > Richard Good told me that setting the wrench at 125 lbs and > putting a 24" > pipe over it would yield about the right force. Funny he would make a mistake like that. He is mistaken of course. > Then I found these two formulas http://tinyurl.com/97faw7 & > http://tinyurl.com/774vwv which appear to work math-wise but > where does the extension go? Check figure 8-16. > I've also heard that most shops would just hit it with their > impact wrench and call it a day. Perhaps that's true, but after ruining several wheel bearings on a FWD non-LBC, I don't use an impact wrench even to remove CVJ nuts. > So....what's the best way to accomplish this....and buying a > $200 torque wrench is not the answer though I may just rent > one if necessary. Let's see, you've spent HOW much on this "improvement" and now you're going to cheap out on installing it properly ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140291886836 Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 3 10:05:34 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 09:05:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Ball Joints In-Reply-To: <416204499.1923871230989711383.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090103170534.EWQC2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Well, Randall was right.B (Wait, is that a redundancy in > terms????) Naw, more a case of even a blind pig finds an acorn once in awhile. Whatever his faults as a businessman, Charles really does love these cars and tries to sell only the best parts for them, IMO. > New question:B When I disconnected the ball joints, I seem > to have dinged up the little washer like gizmos that slide > off the shaft.B I believe those were part of the old boots and should be discarded. Of course that raises the uncomfortable possibility that your joints are not "as original" and the TRF boots won't fit them. But most likely they will be "close enough". Randall From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 3 10:14:07 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 12:14:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma In-Reply-To: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: > > So....what's the best way to accomplish this....and buying a > > $200 torque wrench is not the answer though I may just rent > > one if necessary.> > Let's see, you've spent HOW much on this "improvement" and now you're going> to cheap out on installing it properly ?> > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140291886836> > Randall Randall makes an excellent point. In almost 30 years of messing with TR3s, I have often bought a tool, including a big Snap-On torque wrench for the rear hub for one example, to use for a specific job. I will say to myself, "Why am I buying this expensive tool for just this one application?". However, I ALWAYS have used the tool again and am always glad that I had it on hand! Money spent on tools, especially high quality tools, is money well spent. John H. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 3 10:56:29 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 12:56:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma In-Reply-To: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Guys..... I was just asking the question to see what the experts would say. Looks like I'll be checking the local tool rental place and putting in a bid on the eBay wrench.......so none of you can bid on it! As always.....thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 11:59 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma > It's been suggested that 160 lb me standing on the end of an 18" > breaker bar would exert about that torque. I like this idea. You'll probably like it less when the socket slips off. > Richard Good told me that setting the wrench at 125 lbs and putting a > 24" > pipe over it would yield about the right force. Funny he would make a mistake like that. He is mistaken of course. > Then I found these two formulas http://tinyurl.com/97faw7 & > http://tinyurl.com/774vwv which appear to work math-wise but where > does the extension go? Check figure 8-16. > I've also heard that most shops would just hit it with their impact > wrench and call it a day. Perhaps that's true, but after ruining several wheel bearings on a FWD non-LBC, I don't use an impact wrench even to remove CVJ nuts. > So....what's the best way to accomplish this....and buying a $200 > torque wrench is not the answer though I may just rent one if > necessary. Let's see, you've spent HOW much on this "improvement" and now you're going to cheap out on installing it properly ? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140291886836 Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Jan 3 11:06:45 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 13:06:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Looking for TR6 owner Message-ID: There was a silver TR6 at the Valley Forge VTR event, the owner was working on his carbs in the hotel parking lot one day. The owner on the list by any chance? Marty _________________________________________________________________ Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass. http://windowslive.com/oneline/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhere _122008 From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Jan 3 11:27:37 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 11:27:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma In-Reply-To: References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901031027o66c02416w5499fb5a778a489e@mail.gmail.com> Our (not so big) town has a used tool store. Sort of a pawn shop that only takes in tools. I have used it a couple of times for a big socket or such for a one-time or seldom-time job. Kinda sad, especially in these times, as it's a reminder of guys who have to hock their tools to make ends meet -- but a grest source of affordable quality tools. Geo On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 10:14 AM, John Herrera wrote: > > In almost 30 years of messing with TR3s, I have often bought a tool, > including > a big Snap-On torque wrench for the rear hub for one example, to use for a > specific job... From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Jan 3 12:10:49 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 14:10:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tools References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most tools wins." Or: "I never met a tool I didn't like" Any others? Ed Woods From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Jan 3 15:09:32 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 14:09:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 References: Message-ID: <008201c96def$f4c9d890$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello List, Happy and Healthy New Year to all. It is cold and getting colder. My question regards correct operation of the heater specifically the air distribution control on a '70 TR6. Control pulled one click for defrost I get warm air to windshield. Pulled 2 clicks for heat and defrost I get warm air to windshield and bottom heater vent Knob not pulled out what should happen? Outside Air flap near windshield should do what open or closed? Dash vents always have cold outside air is this correct? I have a 180 degree thermostat and seem to remember I had a lot more heat in my TR250 when used as an everyday driver. Anyone in the North using a 195 degree thermostat in winter? Regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11460 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 3 12:16:31 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 14:16:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: > To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most tools > wins."> > Or: "I never met a tool I didn't like"> > Any others?> > Ed Woods Yeah... Something along the lines of that Ancient Egyptian phrase that goes "Time spent fishing does not count against the time alotted for a man's life" only with money and tools instead of time and fishing. But I can't seem to make it work. Anyone? I've never regretted spending money on tools. John H. From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jan 3 12:19:49 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 14:19:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901031027o66c02416w5499fb5a778a489e@mail.gmail.com> References: Message-ID: <495F7405.29110.B29B55D@localhost> On 3 Jan 2009 at 11:27, Geo Hahn wrote: > Our (not so big) town has a used tool store. There's one about half a mile from my house too. One finds all kinds of stuff there, some things very worn out and cheap, some quite nice, the occasional very good item apparently replaced by a newer model, etc. Really good stuff doesn't stay around long though. The shop keeps odd hours, but workmen around here seem to know all about the place. I once tried to find their website just to check their hours. A curious thing is that if I Google for used tools in my city, it shows that store in the correct location on Main St., and another store too. But when I click the URL it gives, it brings up some tool rental chain in California. Heck, it off by only about 3000 miles, just a quick hop downtown, right? When I asked the proprietor about it he knew nothing about it, doesn't have a website or anything. Google got it wrong. (I read it on the Internet so it must be true.) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From twakeman at razzolink.com Sat Jan 3 12:21:52 2009 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 11:21:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> Ed Woods wrote: > To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most > tools wins." In real life the man who dies with the most tools can't take them with him. The heirs either get it all or they get scattered during an estate sale. Its what you do before you die that counts, not what you give up at the end. Teriann From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jan 3 12:23:39 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 14:23:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: References: <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <495F74EB.25507.B2D38A8@localhost> On 3 Jan 2009 at 14:16, John Herrera wrote: > > To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most tools > > wins."> > Or: "I never met a tool I didn't like"> > Any others?> > Ed Woods > > > Yeah... Something along the lines of that Ancient Egyptian phrase that goes > "Time spent fishing does not count against the time alotted for a man's life" > only with money and tools instead of time and fishing. > > But I can't seem to make it work. Anyone? Was it the Wind In the Willows that Ratty extolling the virtues of "messing about with tools"? Or maybe that was about boats. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ddmdoug at gmail.com Sat Jan 3 14:16:11 2009 From: ddmdoug at gmail.com (Doug Mathews) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 16:16:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <495FD59B.7060705@gmail.com> You mean I'm going to have pay for it ALL! Now I am worried!!!!! ;-) TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > Ed Woods wrote: >> To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most >> tools wins." > In real life the man who dies with the most tools can't take them with > him. The heirs either get it all or they get scattered during an > estate sale. > > Its what you do before you die that counts, not what you give up at > the end. > > Teriann From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Jan 3 14:16:06 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 21:16:06 -0000 Subject: [TR] Tools References: <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <495F74EB.25507.B2D38A8@localhost> Message-ID: Jim Muller wrote: > Was it the Wind In the Willows that Ratty extolling the virtues of > "messing about with tools"? Or maybe that was about boats. 'Fraid so. Quote, "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." And I couldn't agree more! Now being Triumph-less and living very close to one of England's most beautiful rivers - with a VERY convenient slipway, I'm giving serious thought to acquiring a small craft with an ultra-reliable (British Seagull) outboard motor and following in Ratty's wash from 2010 onwards. At the risk of being slaughtered for an off-topic post, I'll call the boat Mayflower (www.newton.k12.ks.us/tech/mayflower.bmp) or Vanguard (www.royalnavalmuseum.org/images/vanguardhmsmay1952webvers_000.jpg:) but NOT this Vanguard (www.royalnavy.mod.uk/upload/img_400/1011629739b.jpg) Jonmac From mathews at uga.edu Sat Jan 3 14:18:14 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 16:18:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <495FD616.6010907@uga.edu> You mean I'm going to have pay for it ALL! Now I am worried!!!!! ;-) TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > Ed Woods wrote: >> To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most >> tools wins." > In real life the man who dies with the most tools can't take them with > him. The heirs either get it all or they get scattered during an > estate sale. > > Its what you do before you die that counts, not what you give up at > the end. > > Teriann From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 3 14:19:13 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 14:19:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall><003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <105EE2BDF4874BD0880D50FA837E0CAA@sniffer> Absolutely TerriAnn, like keeping the TR on the road. Just this year I took a 1/2" breaker bar back to Home Depot for replacement.... My father gave it to me as part of a set over 40 years ago! The girl was a little miffed because she could not find the SKU number in her system but a few phone calls and she was OK and I had my new bar. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn Wakeman Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 12:22 PM To: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] Tools Ed Woods wrote: > To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most > tools wins." In real life the man who dies with the most tools can't take them with him. The heirs either get it all or they get scattered during an estate sale. Its what you do before you die that counts, not what you give up at the end. Teriann This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.2/1872 - Release Date: 1/2/2009 1:10 PM From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Jan 3 16:17:14 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 18:17:14 EST Subject: [TR] Tools Message-ID: In a message dated 1/3/2009 2:10:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most tools wins." Or: "I never met a tool I didn't like" Any others? ==AM== "Tim 'The Tool Man' Taylor's" immortal "MORE POWER!" (grunt, grunt, grunt...) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From tr3a at comcast.net Sat Jan 3 16:23:02 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 18:23:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <495FF356.6010609@comcast.net> "POWDER COAT" author unknown. :) ZoboHerald at aol.com wrote: In a message dated 1/3/2009 2:10:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, fogbro1 at comcast.net writes: To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most tools wins." Or: "I never met a tool I didn't like" Any others? ==AM== "Tim 'The Tool Man' Taylor's" immortal "MORE POWER!" (grunt, grunt, grunt...) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3a at comcast.net Sat Jan 3 16:43:22 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 18:43:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: <495FF81A.4010504@comcast.net> Does anyone have a recommended shop that will re-core my '3A radiator? Or should I just take it to my nearest rad shop? I would prefer to retain the crank hole (I know, I know...). Is it possible to buy just a core and do it myself? Has anyone used a Wizard? Will they add the crank hole? And where's the best place to get a mortgage for this? :) Thanks! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 3 16:50:18 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 15:50:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <495FF81A.4010504@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090103235019.QQQU13308.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Or should I just take it to my nearest rad shop? I would > prefer to retain the crank hole (I know, I know...). I have my local radiator shop (Mac's Radiator, Bellflower, CA) do all my Triumph radiators; I've always been pleased with the results. On the 3A, they asked if I wanted to keep the crank hole, but I opted for the 10% more cooling instead. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 3 17:10:45 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 19:10:45 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: Your comment about a mortgage is well taken. I had mine done a year ago or so, and a friend who is doing a 3A said that he just checked and the price at the same shop is now competitive with buying a new (not Taiwan) radiator. I have no facts, other than mine was about $400 (no crank hole), just a heads up. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From kvacek at ameritech.net Sat Jan 3 17:49:24 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 18:49:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tools References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall><003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> <105EE2BDF4874BD0880D50FA837E0CAA@sniffer> Message-ID: <276CD5E132FF454391BE74255262E2D3@KARL> There was a Home Depot over 40 years ago ?? Back then all we had here in the Chicago area were real hardware stores and lumber yards. You know - places that actually had good-quality American products to sell and knowledgeable employees. Now Homey and the like have driven most of those places out of business. :-( Karl > Just this year I took a 1/2" breaker bar back to Home Depot for > replacement.... My father gave it to me as part of a set over 40 years > ago! > The girl was a little miffed because she could not find the SKU number in > her system but a few phone calls and she was OK and I had my new bar. > > Bill B From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 3 18:02:22 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 18:02:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: <276CD5E132FF454391BE74255262E2D3@KARL> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall><003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com><105EE2BDF4874BD0880D50FA837E0CAA@sniffer> <276CD5E132FF454391BE74255262E2D3@KARL> Message-ID: <0506D8603C4B4564AB10ED18F90E1E9E@sniffer> Not that I ever knew of either, but they started carrying Husky tools about 10 years ago with a lifetime guarantee. All I remember was Sears/Craftsman and the Snap-On man that came by the shop. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Karl Vacek Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 5:49 PM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] Tools There was a Home Depot over 40 years ago ?? Back then all we had here in the Chicago area were real hardware stores and lumber yards. You know - places that actually had good-quality American products to sell and knowledgeable employees. Now Homey and the like have driven most of those places out of business. :-( Karl > Just this year I took a 1/2" breaker bar back to Home Depot for > replacement.... My father gave it to me as part of a set over 40 years > ago! > The girl was a little miffed because she could not find the SKU number > in her system but a few phone calls and she was OK and I had my new bar. > > Bill B This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.2/1873 - Release Date: 1/3/2009 2:14 PM From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Jan 3 19:16:50 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 20:16:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tools References: <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><495F74EB.25507.B2D38A8@localhost> Message-ID: My understanding is that the battleship, HMS Vanguard, which was completed right around the end of WW2 and never fired a shot in anger, was equipped with four propellor shafts each driven by a large four cylinder wetliner gasoline engine, each of which was equipped with a pair of 72" SUs. At least, that was the rumour... Mike > At the risk of being slaughtered for an off-topic post, I'll call the boat > Mayflower (www.newton.k12.ks.us/tech/mayflower.bmp) or Vanguard > (www.royalnavalmuseum.org/images/vanguardhmsmay1952webvers_000.jpg:) but > NOT this Vanguard (www.royalnavy.mod.uk/upload/img_400/1011629739b.jpg) > > Jonmac From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Jan 3 20:37:23 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 21:37:23 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Two questions Message-ID: <956271944.37037811231040243634.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> List, Happy New Year. Enjoyed all the winter projects going on. Quickly: 1.) Does anyone have a source for a NOS Triumph TR6 (1972) symbol choke knob? 2.) Just finished Bob Danielson's window channel project with Velcro and Fat Mat, it is great (nice cover Bob, you deserve the recognition). With the clips, I read as much as I could. Some holes in the cardboard are broken, what is the best way to repair this? I am only having trouble on the driver's side, appears to be where the most water got in the door (big surprise). Need to remove it again since I am two clips short. Thanks folks, everyone the best in 2009. It has got to be a better year than 2008. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Jan 4 06:51:33 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 13:51:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Tools In-Reply-To: <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> References: <20090103165839.JYQT73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <003901c96dd6$fdb5d170$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <495FBAD0.7000105@razzolink.com> Message-ID: If the man is wise he has his tools specified in his last will and testament and they are distributed to a worthy individual. Best regards, Tom > Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 11:21:52 -0800 > From: twakeman at razzolink.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Tools > > Ed Woods wrote: > > To coin a phrase (or two): "In life, the man who dies with the most > > tools wins." > In real life the man who dies with the most tools can't take them with > him. The heirs either get it all or they get scattered during an estate > sale. > > Its what you do before you die that counts, not what you give up at the end. > > Teriann > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Its the same Hotmail.. If by same you mean up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad1_12 2008 From trdoctor at aol.com Sun Jan 4 08:35:43 2009 From: trdoctor at aol.com (trdoctor at aol.com) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2009 10:35:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 Hardtop Backlites Message-ID: <8CB3C993D6913DB-2B8-194@WEBMAIL-MB05.sysops.aol.com> Anyone interested in a backlite for a TR2/3 hardtop please contact me off list. Sam Clark From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jan 4 09:26:08 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 11:26:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Control Head Installation Message-ID: I have run the harness through the stator tube with little resistance and am installing the control head. I had to turn the stator tube so the slot was more toward 2 o'clock so that the crease on the head tube would slide into the slot while keeping the turn signal at 12 o'clock (and the bottom return is at 6). What I am having difficulty with is setting the grub screws so that when I turn the steering wheel the control head stays in position. Do the grub screws engage the round plate when screwed in or are they supposed to be in front of the plate, so it presses the plate against the back of the groove that the plate fits into? Or am I doing something else wrong? Once in place, I am tightening the gland nut at the end of the steering box, but this tends to move the control head, which makes me believe I am also not securing it properly at the steering wheel. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 "59 TR3 From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 4 10:21:58 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 12:21:58 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A Control Head Installation Message-ID: You are going to have to install the olive and nut on the bottom of the stator tube in order to hold it from turning with the wheel. The grub screws go behind the plate. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 4 11:12:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 10:12:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Control Head Installation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090104181246.YMZF17716.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Scott, > What I am having difficulty with is setting the > grub screws so that when I turn the steering wheel the > control head stays in position. The grub screws at the steering wheel don't keep the head from turning; rather they lock the canceling mechanism to the steering wheel so it always turns. The head is held stationary only by the stator tube and the gland/nut at the front of the steering box. > or are they supposed to be in front of the plate, so it > presses the plate against the back of the groove that the plate fits into? Those screws should be pointed, the points ride in front of the plate, so it's trapped between the screws and steering wheel. The way I do it is to leave the gland loose and pull the stator tube up at first, so I can ensure that the slots are properly engaged. Put the steering wheel straight ahead, and turn the canceling mechanism so the lever is down. Then push the control head into place in the wheel, which will also push the stator tube through the gland. Tighten the grub screws without turning anything, then turn the control head to center the lever and tighten the gland. If the control head wants to turn while you are tightening the gland nut, you may need to remove the nut and smear a little grease over the exposed end of the gland so it will slide on the nut instead of against the steering box. Randall From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Jan 4 13:52:18 2009 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 15:52:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] tools Message-ID: <4A292D0D79324E3D8894A6454455C042@randyPC> listers, HE WHO DIES /C the most tools does not win HE IS DEAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! randy sandner now in upstate ny From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 4 14:19:11 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 13:19:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] tools In-Reply-To: <4A292D0D79324E3D8894A6454455C042@randyPC> Message-ID: <20090104211910.XUQQ13015.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > HE WHO DIES /C the most tools does not win > > > HE IS DEAD http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slOY4cSVfy8 From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Jan 4 17:29:36 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 17:29:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Torque Wrench Dilemma References: Message-ID: <08B3758C1E3743F097F3E7C4276C49AD@rolofson> Bob, Here's how I got to my comfort level with tightening the nut on my CV axle/hub setup. I also have a 150 limit on my torque wrench so I tightened the nuts up to that limit and tried to calibrate my mind and muscle memory so that when I reached the torque wrench's limit and put a breaker bar on the socket I could give it a little more twist that I "felt" like was closer to the 220 ft/lbs. It was maybe half a flat more. Basically I did it with "feel"....and finding my center, to do the torque. It also helps to know that you're going to bend the lip of the nut onto the flat part of the shaft as a safety for keeping that nut from moving....I guess that will hold it...something a little more high tech might have been nice though. That's how I dealt with not having a bigger torque wrench. No problems for the couple thousand miles I've put on so far. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Danielson To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 6:37 AM Subject: [6pack] Torque Wrench Dilemma Oh math/physics/engineer gurus..........Here's my question.... Goodparts CVJs specify that the 1-1/4" axle nut be torqued to 220-250 lbs. My audible click-type torque wrench maxes out at 150 lbs. It's been suggested that 160 lb me standing on the end of an 18" breaker bar would exert about that torque. I like this idea. Richard Good told me that setting the wrench at 125 lbs and putting a 24" pipe over it would yield about the right force. Then I found these two formulas http://tinyurl.com/97faw7 & http://tinyurl.com/774vwv which appear to work math-wise but where does the extension go? Between the nut and the drive end of the wrench or can you just slide a pipe over the wrench handle to extend it? I've also heard that most shops would just hit it with their impact wrench and call it a day. These are CVJs and the 1-1/4" nut is an all steel grade 8 locking nut. So....what's the best way to accomplish this....and buying a $200 torque wrench is not the answer though I may just rent one if necessary. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jan 4 18:25:04 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 20:25:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 In-Reply-To: <008201c96def$f4c9d890$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <008201c96def$f4c9d890$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: Bob: I believe you are correct in that the first pull will get your heat to the defrost and a second to the feet and vents. Key to getting any heat is that the scuttle vent must be pulled open or you will get nothing. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 5:10 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Hello List, Happy and Healthy New Year to all. It is cold and getting colder. My question regards correct operation of the heater specifically the air distribution control on a '70 TR6. Control pulled one click for defrost I get warm air to windshield. Pulled 2 clicks for heat and defrost I get warm air to windshield and bottom heater vent Knob not pulled out what should happen? Outside Air flap near windshield should do what open or closed? Dash vents always have cold outside air is this correct? I have a 180 degree thermostat and seem to remember I had a lot more heat in my TR250 when used as an everyday driver. Anyone in the North using a 195 degree thermostat in winter? Regards, Bob From agraham at execulink.com Sun Jan 4 18:46:45 2009 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 2009 20:46:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] BRG color code Message-ID: <200901050146.n051kXOc031197@smtp1.execulink.net> Hello Listers: Happy New Year to all. Wondering if anyone has a color code for a very dark BRG? Looking for a color that may even appear to be black in some low light situations. Have seen some examples of this on cars, but the owners were not able to provide any details on the color. I did see an example on a stock Honda GB500 bike, but have not been able to find any information on the color used by Honda. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham '55 TR2 From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jan 4 18:54:44 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 18:54:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] BRG color code In-Reply-To: <200901050146.n051kXOc031197@smtp1.execulink.net> References: <200901050146.n051kXOc031197@smtp1.execulink.net> Message-ID: <67CF7EB179364A35A1C8E1C69F979849@newcomputer> Triumph changed the color of their BRG in the year 1975. Color Years Code Alt Code Alt Code PPG MIX ICI MIX DuPont MIX ============================================================================ B. R. Green 57-67 75 42487 2855 Dark B.R.Grn 75-76 75 43 HAA 45102 CC43 35912 Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 18:47 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] BRG color code Hello Listers: Happy New Year to all. Wondering if anyone has a color code for a very dark BRG? Looking for a color that may even appear to be black in some low light situations. Have seen some examples of this on cars, but the owners were not able to provide any details on the color. I did see an example on a stock Honda GB500 bike, but have not been able to find any information on the color used by Honda. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham '55 TR2 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 4 20:34:12 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 22:34:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: <2F9AC665D14F41E689D75658D58A872D@BOBSNEWPC> Well guys...... I won the eBay wrench that Randall had posted yesterday........$35 delivered. I also had a very nice offer from a List Member to ship me his wrench and a 1-1/4" socket to use. I've done the whole test fit of the CVJs and there's no interference or rubbing with the TAs so I'll probably warp this project up this week. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- From: levilevi [mailto:levilevi at comcast.net] Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 7:30 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; Bob Danielson Subject: Re: [6pack] Torque Wrench Dilemma Bob, Here's how I got to my comfort level with tightening the nut on my CV axle/hub setup. I also have a 150 limit on my torque wrench so I tightened the nuts up to that limit and tried to calibrate my mind and muscle memory so that when I reached the torque wrench's limit and put a breaker bar on the socket I could give it a little more twist that I "felt" like was closer to the 220 ft/lbs. It was maybe half a flat more. Basically I did it with "feel"....and finding my center, to do the torque. It also helps to know that you're going to bend the lip of the nut onto the flat part of the shaft as a safety for keeping that nut from moving....I guess that will hold it...something a little more high tech might have been nice though. That's how I dealt with not having a bigger torque wrench. No problems for the couple thousand miles I've put on so far. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 4 22:44:53 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 00:44:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Control Head Installation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49615805.32712.64CA45D@localhost> On 4 Jan 2009 at 12:21, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > You are going to have to install the olive and nut... The grub > screws go behind the plate. Why am I hungry after reding this? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3a at comcast.net Sun Jan 4 22:47:55 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 00:47:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Control Head Installation In-Reply-To: <49615805.32712.64CA45D@localhost> References: <49615805.32712.64CA45D@localhost> Message-ID: <49619F0B.1080204@comcast.net> You are a mole? :) Jim Muller wrote: On 4 Jan 2009 at 12:21, DLylis at aol.com wrote: You are going to have to install the olive and nut... The grub screws go behind the plate. Why am I hungry after reding this? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 4 22:51:29 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 21:51:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Control Head Installation In-Reply-To: <49615805.32712.64CA45D@localhost> Message-ID: <20090105055129.NWSX13308.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Why am I hungry after reding this? More importantly, where did you acquire a taste for grubs ? Randall From mathews at uga.edu Mon Jan 5 02:40:36 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 04:40:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench In-Reply-To: <2F9AC665D14F41E689D75658D58A872D@BOBSNEWPC> References: <2F9AC665D14F41E689D75658D58A872D@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <4961D594.8070900@uga.edu> And at what warp factor and how do get to that speed? ;-) Doug Bob Danielson wrote: > Well guys...... I won the eBay wrench that Randall had posted > yesterday........$35 delivered. I also had a very nice offer from a List > Member to ship me his wrench and a 1-1/4" socket to use. > > I've done the whole test fit of the CVJs and there's no interference or > rubbing with the TAs so I'll probably warp this project up this week. > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson From mgowen55 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 5 03:28:39 2009 From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 05:28:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench In-Reply-To: <2F9AC665D14F41E689D75658D58A872D@BOBSNEWPC> References: <2F9AC665D14F41E689D75658D58A872D@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: " so I'll probably warp this project up this week." Only if that wrench is very poorly calibrated. Glenn Owen '67 TR4A From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 5 05:46:25 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 07:46:25 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 3:41:00 AM Central Standard Time, mathews at uga.edu writes: > And at what warp factor and how do get to that speed? ;-) > Scotty, beam me up, my spell checker broke! From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 5 05:47:50 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 07:47:50 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 4:28:56 AM Central Standard Time, mgowen55 at hotmail.com writes: > " so I'll probably warp this project up this week." > > Only if that wrench is very poorly calibrated. > I think he was referring to our minds. Beats eating beetle larvae. Dave From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Jan 5 06:02:04 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 08:02:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] BRG color code In-Reply-To: <200901050146.n051kXOc031197@smtp1.execulink.net> References: <200901050146.n051kXOc031197@smtp1.execulink.net> Message-ID: <817439CF34A54F07B580E4F1FDB8D032@DCH6RFC1> I think the best BRG is the 1971 Jaguar BRG. Absolutely beautiful. I have a bias, of course - that's what I painted my car........ Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 8:47 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] BRG color code Hello Listers: Happy New Year to all. Wondering if anyone has a color code for a very dark BRG? Looking for a color that may even appear to be black in some low light situations. Have seen some examples of this on cars, but the owners were not able to provide any details on the color. I did see an example on a stock Honda GB500 bike, but have not been able to find any information on the color used by Honda. Thanks for any help with this. Angelo Graham '55 TR2 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From cm.sherman at verizon.net Mon Jan 5 06:31:50 2009 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 13:31:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] BRG color code Message-ID: <2143555439-1231162250-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1518538105-@bxe034.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Check out the color table at www.trregistry.com, google 'triumph original paint swatches' images or use todays car brochures... personally I was thinking of painting my TR BMW x6 red! For something completely different check out Alsa paints. They make specialty paints that change based on light and heat exposure - very cool pictures of vehicles (their chroma paint is 85 percent reflective/mirror like). Corey Sherman Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From jat1127 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 5 07:14:53 2009 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 09:14:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 7/8 sunvisors Message-ID: Listers, Happy New Year. Has anyone seen TR 7 or 8 sunvisors for sale?John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Life on your PC is safer, easier, and more enjoyable with Windows Vista.. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/127032870/direct/01/ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 5 07:19:07 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 09:19:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember In-Reply-To: <54B2D2DB15AC43B48CFE0848559FC487@PamHome> References: <001501c96e8a$3424a9d0$9c6dfd70$@rr.com> <54B2D2DB15AC43B48CFE0848559FC487@PamHome> Message-ID: Mark, The free play comes from the slotted motor mounts and then the drive shaft has a splined slip. Plus over time the motor mounts "collapse/settle" so new mounts help to "lift" the engine. When I reinstalled my engine & tranny last winter, I installed new mounts and set everything back as far as I could. Now I can easily slip my fan belt on and off the car. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 12:00 AM To: Shannon Muncy; 'Douglas Morris'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember Shannon, I'm confused (this happens often). The engine, tranny and drive shaft are all fixed lengths? If they are all connected to the diff, how can you move it forward or backward? Confused in Kailua (it may be too many Mai Tais) Mark ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shannon Muncy" To: "'Douglas Morris'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 6:33 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember > Relatively easy fix; The motor mounts are adjustable to the front and > back > of the car. You need to loosen them (including the rear trans mount) and > slide the engine to the rear of the car. You'll have about a 1/2 inch of > movement rearward. > > -Shannon > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Douglas Morris > Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 8:45 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember > > About 6-kmi after re-installing the engine, the damper/crank pulley > has decided to mate itself with he tubular front crossmember. Now I > know they've been close before, but hard contact kind of interferes > with the engine's ability to, you know... turn over. > > The xmission rear mount looks fine, but it's possible the engine has > moved slightly in the engine mounts. It appears as though the xmission > mount is the only thing offering real fwd/aft control. > > Before i start messing about, does anyone have any experience with > this problem? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 5 07:22:28 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 09:22:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench In-Reply-To: <4961D594.8070900@uga.edu> References: <2F9AC665D14F41E689D75658D58A872D@BOBSNEWPC> <4961D594.8070900@uga.edu> Message-ID: <9F77D75A674B49DA846BB8610FB2F195@BOBSNEWPC> And once again spell check isn't the "God-send" we all think it is. Warp.....Wrap....crap! LOL Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Mathews Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 4:41 AM To: Bob Danielson Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Torque Wrench And at what warp factor and how do get to that speed? ;-) Doug Bob Danielson wrote: > Well guys...... I won the eBay wrench that Randall had posted > yesterday........$35 delivered. I also had a very nice offer from a > List Member to ship me his wrench and a 1-1/4" socket to use. > > I've done the whole test fit of the CVJs and there's no interference > or rubbing with the TAs so I'll probably warp this project up this week. > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 5 08:07:17 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 07:07:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench In-Reply-To: <9F77D75A674B49DA846BB8610FB2F195@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <20090105150717.NFGS2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > And once again spell check isn't the "God-send" we all think it is. Eye halve a spelling checker It came with my pea sea It plainly marques four my revue Miss steaks eye kin knot sea. Eye strike a quay and type a word And weight four it two say Weather eye am wrong oar write It shows me strait a weigh. As soon as a mist ache is maid It nose bee fore two long And eye can put the error rite It's rare lea ever wrong. Eye have run this poem threw it I am shore your pleased two no It's letter perfect awl the weigh My checker tolled me sew. From pboldtrix at juno.com Mon Jan 5 08:27:34 2009 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:27:34 GMT Subject: [TR] Tools - Optimum torque wrench size? Message-ID: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> List: All this talk of tools and wrenches brings a question....if one has only enough bucks for one torque wrench, what size would be most useful for working on your British car? I have a TR6 and MGBGT, so certainly it would have to be large enough to do lug nuts (70 lbs on TR6). What is the smallest able to accomplish this, plus other tasks? Phil Bacon ____________________________________________________________ Click to become a designer and quit your boring job. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/PnY6rbttTb8KWGbxGKIl6Bh3vRqQXYmy3 V9J2DbO5tDRa6C0bEypz/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 5 09:00:04 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 08:00:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tools - Optimum torque wrench size? In-Reply-To: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <20090105160004.TGLY17716.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > All this talk of tools and wrenches brings a > question....if one has only enough bucks for one torque > wrench, what size would be most useful for working on your > British car? Kind of depends on what jobs you are likely to tackle. My first (and only for many years) wrench read to 120 ft-lb, to cover the head nuts on a TRactor motor. Never used a torque wrench on British lug nuts, until I got the Stag. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 5 09:58:12 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 11:58:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tools - Optimum torque wrench size? In-Reply-To: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC> Phil, Up until the need to crank the rear hub's axle nut to 220-250 lbs, the Sears 1/2" drive that went to 150 met all my needs for: lug nuts, suspension, flywheel, fan eliminator kit etc. I prefer the "click" type because you can't always see a dial or a beam but you can hear that click. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Phil Bacon Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 10:28 AM To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tools - Optimum torque wrench size? List: All this talk of tools and wrenches brings a question....if one has only enough bucks for one torque wrench, what size would be most useful for working on your British car? I have a TR6 and MGBGT, so certainly it would have to be large enough to do lug nuts (70 lbs on TR6). What is the smallest able to accomplish this, plus other tasks? Phil Bacon ____________________________________________________________ Click to become a designer and quit your boring job. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/PnY6rbttTb8KWGbxGKIl6Bh3vRqQXYmy 3 V9J2DbO5tDRa6C0bEypz/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jan 5 10:06:27 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 12:06:27 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: <20090105120627.BVY82791@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > Beats eating beetle larvae. You boys been ridin' the range too long. Time to sitcha'self down and rustle up some grub, put it on yer plate an' spice it up with an olive, and a nut or two, and relax. -- Jim Muller, no longer hungry From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Jan 5 10:10:23 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 12:10:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel pump safety switch In-Reply-To: <14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC> References: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> <14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <5CC1145BB0634AD2BE5726430C504551@DCH6RFC1> List: One thing inevitably leads to another, and another.... I have installed Webers on my project TR3, which necessitated an electric fuel pump, which I will wire into the ignition switch. I know there are safety switches which tie into the oil pressure and ensure pump cut-out in the event of catastrophic failure. Does anyone on the list have experience with these? I have been told that they aren't particularly reliable, and may shut the fuel pump off at inopportune times. Any help would be great - thanks ! Andrew From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Jan 5 10:41:56 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 11:41:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tools - Optimum torque wrench size? References: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> <14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: All that REALLY has to be torqued on these cars is high-stress stuff like main and rod caps, crankshaft nuts, head studs/nuts, some transmission/overdrive and rear axle parts, etc. Front wheel bearings on some unmentionable-brand LBC's too. I've always used the same 120 (as I recall) ft-lb Craftsman beam torque wrench, till lately when I began to need a second set of tools, and when I began regularly torquing smaller items in the low inch-pound range. Still all beams for me though - all Craftsman too except a neat little Indestro low inch-pound one I got off eBay a few weeks ago. Why beam-style ? Because they really don't go out of calibration. The clickers should be calibrated fairly often - and there's more to go wrong. A beam is pretty much good for life in my type of use. I did check my original once a few years ago - maybe around its 35th year of use - and it was closer than I could read the pointer over virtually the whole range. I use tape marks on the scale for repetitive tasks, and to do something out of position, I use tape marks to help "read" the back side of the scale. Karl > Up until the need to crank the rear hub's axle nut to 220-250 lbs, the > Sears > 1/2" drive that went to 150 met all my needs for: lug nuts, suspension, > flywheel, fan eliminator kit etc. I prefer the "click" type because you > can't always see a dial or a beam but you can hear that click. > > Bob From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jan 5 10:52:41 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 17:52:41 +0000 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: <010520091752.29471.496248E9000E26CA0000731F22165258069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Randall" > > And once again spell check isn't the "God-send" we all think it is. > > Eye halve a spelling checker > It came with my pea sea [...] I cringe whenever I see "break peddle" instead of "brake pedal". -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Jan 5 10:55:19 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 17:55:19 -0000 Subject: [TR] Fuel pump safety switch References: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com><14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC> <5CC1145BB0634AD2BE5726430C504551@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <20D01EAAF66848F5A8FCF5B4BC2699A5@Bevan> Andrew, if you want to 'keep it Triumph' have a look at www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr6/images/112a.gif and specifically look at ref nos 42 and 43 on the panel of images + items 42-47 inclusive. This is the inertia fuel cut-out switch fitted to all injected TR's and the 2.5 litre injected sedans. Speaking from personal experience over the years they are *very* reliable - like they immediately shut-off in an accident, violent skid or the car going inverted. They are wired through the ignition. They also have a button (illustrated) to re-set after cut-off and which also allows you to turn off the fuel pump if you need the ignition switched on but don't want to start the engine or flood the carbs. Usual faffle about NFI or promoting Rimmers. Doubt you'll get this particular switch through any of the US suppliers and also worth noting it should be a lot cheaper in $'s following the collapse of the #/$ exchange rate. Jonmac Andrew Upritchard wrote: > I have installed Webers on my project TR3, which necessitated an electric > fuel pump, which I will wire into the ignition switch. I know there are > safety switches which tie into the oil pressure and ensure pump cut-out in > the event of catastrophic failure. > Does anyone on the list have experience with these? I have been told that > they aren't particularly reliable, and may shut the fuel pump off at > inopportune times. From cak at dimebank.com Mon Jan 5 11:01:15 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 10:01:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers Message-ID: <200901051801.n05I1FKN014468@moose.dimebank.com> The GT6 is the poor red-haired stepchild of the Triumph family, at least when you look at the catalogs of the Big Three :-) Over the years, I've cultivated a lot of alternative sources for parts, and this hasn't been much of a problem. But my 70 GT6+ desperately needs to have the seats rebuilt, and really wouldn't mind much getting a new carpet set (including the carpets for the rear wheel humps). As best I can tell, no one sells these parts. Someone ... please tell me I'm wrong! I guess that I can find a local shop to do them, but that strikes me as hit-or-miss, especially for the foam. Thanks, chris From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 5 11:38:08 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 10:38:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fuel pump safety switch In-Reply-To: <20D01EAAF66848F5A8FCF5B4BC2699A5@Bevan> References: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com><14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC><5CC1145BB0634AD2BE5726430C504551@DCH6RFC1> <20D01EAAF66848F5A8FCF5B4BC2699A5@Bevan> Message-ID: <1e1d01c96f64$c1994570$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > This is the > inertia fuel cut-out switch fitted to all injected TR's and the 2.5 litre > injected sedans. Also all Stags. Used ones do show up on eBay from time to time, but not often. Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Jan 5 11:43:11 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 10:43:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tools - Optimum torque wrench size? In-Reply-To: <14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC> References: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com> <14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: Torque Wrenches (like most things you buy) are usually as good as the price you pay, I choose one that "clicks" , goes up to 150 ft lbs. Mine is from Precision Instrutments and costs about $250 ... this was on the advice from my favorite Auto Mechanic, who by the way has agreed to loan me his 250 ft lb wrench when I need it to install Good's CV axles. >Phil, >Up until the need to crank the rear hub's axle nut to 220-250 lbs, the Sears >1/2" drive that went to 150 met all my needs for: lug nuts, suspension, >flywheel, fan eliminator kit etc. I prefer the "click" type because you >can't always see a dial or a beam but you can hear that click. > -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 5 11:56:24 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 10:56:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fuel pump safety switch In-Reply-To: <5CC1145BB0634AD2BE5726430C504551@DCH6RFC1> References: <20090105.102734.21557.0@webmail22.vgs.untd.com><14BF4F989D6748B38B3929CDCCAC8C5C@BOBSNEWPC> <5CC1145BB0634AD2BE5726430C504551@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <1e2401c96f67$4ebc2ec0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I have installed Webers on my project TR3, which necessitated an electric > fuel pump, Hmm, I was under the impression that Webers would work with the stock fuel pump. > I know there are > safety switches which tie into the oil pressure and ensure pump cut-out in > the event of catastrophic failure. > > Does anyone on the list have experience with these? Not as a pump cutout, but the standard 3-terminal oil pressure switch from a later TR6 (and many other cars) seems to be a fairly reliable device and would work as a pump cutout (using the contacts intended for the anti-runon valve). I believe the threads are standard 1/8" NPT, and it should be easy enough to drill and tap a suitable hole in the filter head for the switch. If you add an override pushbutton in the cockpit (for building fuel pressure before starting), it would also give you a "limp home" mode if the oil switch fails. I think I mentioned before, Bosch made a special relay that monitored the points and only enabled the pump while the engine was turning. Some have said they were unreliable, but IMO that was mostly due to being mounted in damp locations. The VW Rabbit I was given appeared to still have it's original relay, and it still worked fine when my stepson eventually sold the car some 10 years later. Found on all cars with Bosch fuel injection and points, I believe. http://tinyurl.com/7g8msv Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 5 13:04:36 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:04:36 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 11:06:36 AM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > You boys been ridin' the range too long. Time to sitcha'self down and > rustle up some grub, put it on yer plate an' spice it up with an olive, and a nut > or two, and relax. > Speaking of plates, does this mean I have to put my upper back in? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 5 13:06:30 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:06:30 EST Subject: [TR] Fuel pump safety switch Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 11:10:37 AM Central Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: > I have installed Webers on my project TR3, which necessitated an electric > fuel pump, which I will wire into the ignition switch. I know there are > safety switches which tie into the oil pressure and ensure pump cut-out in > the event of catastrophic failure. > > Does anyone on the list have experience with these? I have been told that > they aren't particularly reliable, and may shut the fuel pump off at > inopportune times. I went to the junk yard and got one from a Ford Probe. Cost me $5 or $10. Works fine on my TR6. Cheers Dave From mathews at uga.edu Mon Jan 5 13:09:47 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 15:09:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench II Message-ID: <4962690B.1000003@uga.edu> Not necessarily...you could take the lower out too and just gum them beans to death. :-D Doug ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Speaking of plates, does this mean I have to put my upper back in? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 5 13:10:18 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:10:18 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 11:53:04 AM Central Standard Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > I cringe whenever I see "break peddle" instead of "brake pedal". > I no what your talking about, I hate it when folks right in that manor. Im particularly sensitive theyve left out apostrophes. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jan 5 13:16:03 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:16:03 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench II Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 2:10:06 PM Central Standard Time, mathews at uga.edu writes: > Not necessarily...you could take the lower out too and just gum them > beans to death. :-D > > Doug > Keep talking like that and I'll hit you with my cane! Dave (Where's my Metamucil?) From cak at dimebank.com Mon Jan 5 13:30:50 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 12:30:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers Message-ID: <200901052030.n05KUn1p000673@moose.dimebank.com> > British Parts Northwest. Not for years! I'm guessing, though, that the only real world-wide source is Newton Commercial (as several folks have pointed me to, thanks), who want quite a bit of money ... roughly $750 per seat for foam and cover. That's really a ludicrous price, as far as I'm concerned, though I'm sure it's worth it to someone who's doing a full-on restoration. I'll look elsewhere... From NPaul72464 at aol.com Mon Jan 5 13:42:14 2009 From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:42:14 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench II Message-ID: Hi All, My son and I are in the process of restoring a '70 Spitfire and the engine needs work. The cylinders have to be bored and the new pistons have to be 20 thousandths over. I haven't been able to find a source for the pistons. Any help would be much appreciated. Ned Paulsen Rochester, NY **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jan 5 13:43:29 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:43:29 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: <20090105154329.BVZ35090@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Phil Ethier wrote: > I cringe whenever I see "break peddle" instead of "brake pedal". But do you not drink a cup of break fluid occasionally? Or should that be break fluif? -- Jim Muller From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 5 14:26:12 2009 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 15:26:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers In-Reply-To: <200901051801.n05I1FKN014468@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200901051801.n05I1FKN014468@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: Have you looked at Park Lane Classics http://www.parklaneclassics.co.uk/index.htm in the UK? Depending on the style of seat he may have what you are looking for. He is also less expensive than Newton Commercial. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO On Jan 5, 2009, at 12:01 PM, Chris Kantarjiev wrote: > The GT6 is the poor red-haired stepchild of the Triumph family, > at least when you look at the catalogs of the Big Three :-) Over the > years, I've cultivated a lot of alternative sources for parts, and > this hasn't been much of a problem. > > But my 70 GT6+ desperately needs to have the seats rebuilt, and > really wouldn't mind much getting a new carpet set (including > the carpets for the rear wheel humps). As best I can tell, no > one sells these parts. > > Someone ... please tell me I'm wrong! > > I guess that I can find a local shop to do them, but that strikes > me as hit-or-miss, especially for the foam. > > Thanks, > chris > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as bberger720 at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tbe749 at aol.com Mon Jan 5 14:50:51 2009 From: tbe749 at aol.com (tbe749 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 16:50:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers In-Reply-To: <200901051801.n05I1FKN014468@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200901051801.n05I1FKN014468@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <8CB3D96CF6B6018-D84-2ED@WEBMAIL-DC14.sysops.aol.com> Just be glad your not shopping for a Triumph 10 Been years since my better half redid our MKIII seats. But I believe we got the covers from Rimmer Bros and the foam from either Newton Commercial or Canley Classics in UK.??I believe they should be able to fix you up with carpet also. Tom Beaver -----Original Message----- From: Chris Kantarjiev To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 1:01 pm Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers The GT6 is the poor red-haired stepchild of the Triumph family, at least when you look at the catalogs of the Big Three :-) Over the years, I've cultivated a lot of alternative sources for parts, and this hasn't been much of a problem. But my 70 GT6+ desperately needs to have the seats rebuilt, and really wouldn't mind much getting a new carpet set (including the carpets for the rear wheel humps). As best I can tell, no one sells these parts. Someone ... please tell me I'm wrong! I guess that I can find a local shop to do them, but that strikes me as hit-or-miss, especially for the foam. Thanks, chris This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tbe749 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Jan 5 15:28:15 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 17:28:15 EST Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers Message-ID: Hey Chris, A couple three years ago when I was doing my 68/70 GT6+ I bought the kits from Scott Harper @ Team Triumph British Automotive. 330-392-7176. He was the only one who could get me the correct seat kits with the tiny little holes and patterned centers, I believe those are correct for 70 but may be correct for 68. Yikes, I forget which! There is another version with centers that have holes inside of diamonds exactly like TR6 seats that are correct for 69 GT6+?? Help Tom? All the US guys wanted to sell me smooth centers which are correct for I know not what year?? Anyway the pattern centers are much more attractive IMHO for whatever year. Cheers, Darrell **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From cak at dimebank.com Mon Jan 5 15:39:21 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 14:39:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers Message-ID: <200901052239.n05MdLWb006983@moose.dimebank.com> My car did not reach me with "diamondtex" inserts. But I'm also not convinced that the interior is as-shipped; it has black carpets but tan vinyl. If I get them done by a local shop, I will probably try to get cloth inserts. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 5 15:47:32 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 14:47:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench II In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090105224733.JQEN73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > My son and I are in the process of restoring a '70 Spitfire I assume that would be a Mk 3. > and the new pistons have to be 20 thousandths over. I > haven't been able to find a source for the pistons. SpitBits seems to have them listed http://www.spitbits.com/mk1/1147enginebits.htm Randall From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 5 16:27:53 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 18:27:53 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A with J type Message-ID: A quote from the Buckeye site: The function of the OD is to change the overall reduction ratio between the engine and rear wheels. It operates in two modes, the direct dive mode where there is no change is reduction ratio and the OD engaged mode where overdrive provides a 25% rpm increase in the output over the input rpm (i.e. overdriven). This means that for a given engine rpm, the road speed is 25% greater when the OD is engaged. Another way of saying this is that when the OD is engaged, the engine rpm is reduced by 20% for a given road speed. The OD is operator controlled via an electrical switch on the steering column. So. . .If I am tooting along in fourth gear at 3000 rpm with a 3.70 diff I should be going 60 mph +/-. However I have a 4.10 diff which is a 10% reduction so I am actually going 54 mph. Then. . .I flip on the Jtype OD and take it back up to 3000 rpm and I am now going 72 mph. OR. . .I maintain 54 mph and the rpms drop to 2400. Yes? BTW my speedo does not work. I do not want to find out how fast I was going from the local constable. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From 60TR3A at cox.net Mon Jan 5 17:59:01 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 17:59:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A with J type In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5E7E4527-6EBF-44FE-9657-1D14CE4E8596@cox.net> David My first 1960 TR3A that I bought in college never had a working speedometer (1965 - 1967). But based on having other folks follow me & I noting their speed when I raised my hand - I determined that in 4th doubling your RPM is very close to you speed: 3000 RPM was approximately 60 MPH and 3500 RPM was approximately 70 MPH. In Overdrive, 3000 RPM was approximately 65 and 3500 RPM was approximately 75 MPH. I think my current 60 TR3A runs a little slower. I suggest going out on the road with a colleague & establishing your tach to MPH ratio. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Jan 5 18:08:00 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 18:08:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A with J type In-Reply-To: <5E7E4527-6EBF-44FE-9657-1D14CE4E8596@cox.net> References: <5E7E4527-6EBF-44FE-9657-1D14CE4E8596@cox.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901051708wf309cf6i5b57ff8c719887b4@mail.gmail.com> ISTR the 'Practical Hints' (TR3 manual) contains the specifics of RPM vs roadspeed for all gears plus OD. Of course, this assumes your tach is right and your tires about the original diameter. But used speedos are pretty cheap and easily calibrated well enough at least to avoid a ticket. Geo From tr3a at comcast.net Mon Jan 5 19:00:00 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2009 21:00:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <495FF81A.4010504@comcast.net> References: <495FF81A.4010504@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4962BB20.408@comcast.net> Thanks guys, for the helpful info. I have a local friend who has forgotten more than I'll likely ever know about these beasts and he recommended a local shop where he has had good luck. I will be checking it out. Oh and he, like most everyone else, said..."WHY ON EARTH would you want to retain the crank hole?!" Or words to that effect. Maybe they're all correct. Michael Ferguson wrote: > Does anyone have a recommended shop that will re-core my '3A radiator? > Or should I just take it to my nearest rad shop? I would prefer to > retain the crank hole (I know, I know...). > > Is it possible to buy just a core and do it myself? > > Has anyone used a Wizard? Will they add the crank hole? And where's > the best place to get a mortgage for this? :) > > Thanks! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 5 19:26:53 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 21:26:53 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: Its hard to believe this started because we are trying to help someone (anyone remember who?) install his 3A control head! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 5 20:11:48 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 19:11:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090106031147.PLEC17716.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Its hard to believe this started because we are trying to > help someone (anyone remember who?) install his 3A control head! Odd ... I thought this thread started because Bob Danielson was trying to install his CV joints. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 5 20:22:48 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 22:22:48 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 3:05:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: In a message dated 1/5/2009 11:06:36 AM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > You boys been ridin' the range too long. Time to sitcha'self down and > rustle up some grub, put it on yer plate an' spice it up with an olive, and a nut > or two, and relax. > Speaking of plates, does this mean I have to put my upper back in? Dave Odd ... I thought this thread started because Bob Danielson was trying to install his CV joints. Randall Me too. This just shows you how far off the path we have really wandered! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From ZoboHerald at aol.com Mon Jan 5 20:37:39 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 22:37:39 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 9:00:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: Oh and he, like most everyone else, said..."WHY ON EARTH would you want to retain the crank hole?!" Or words to that effect. Maybe they're all correct. ==AM== Well, there's always that one time your battery is flat and the car is on a dead-level stretch of road with no one around except you and the starting handle...which no longer fits through the radiator.... :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 5 20:45:07 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 22:45:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench In-Reply-To: <20090106031147.PLEC17716.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090106031147.PLEC17716.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: It was me..... And I ended up winning the eBay auction that Randall pointed me to. I love it when threads get hi-jacked........it keeps you on your toes :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 10:12 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Torque Wrench > Its hard to believe this started because we are trying to help someone > (anyone remember who?) install his 3A control head! Odd ... I thought this thread started because Bob Danielson was trying to install his CV joints. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 5 21:11:12 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 20:11:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090106041112.LYZE2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Well, there's always that one time your battery is flat and > the car is on a dead-level stretch of road with no one around > except you and the starting handle...which no longer fits > through the radiator.... :-) Which is when you learn to push-start it by yourself. Not as hard as you might think. BTDT ... got the alternator Randall From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca Mon Jan 5 21:27:13 2009 From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 23:27:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers References: <200901051801.n05I1FKN014468@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: Martin Macgregor in Dundas, Ontario lists carpet sets for a GT6 http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=GT6-Cockpit NFI, but I find him a decent chap to deal with. Jeff From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 5 23:01:39 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 23:01:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <22AEF22BE1264EC8AD3D389F386F46D3@rolofson> Blank From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 5 23:07:45 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 23:07:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] test test Message-ID: Blank From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Jan 5 23:15:57 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 23:15:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] test test test References: Message-ID: From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jan 6 05:20:58 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 07:20:58 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 10:38:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ZoboHerald at aol.com writes: Well, there's always that one time your battery is flat and the car is on a dead-level stretch of road with no one around except you and the starting handle...which no longer fits through the radiator.... :-) Or there are those many times that your car overheats because of the diminished cooling capacity. You can go upside your own head with the starting handle for putting the hole back in. (wink, wink) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 6 05:51:03 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 07:51:03 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A with J type Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 5:26:13 PM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > So. . .If I am tooting along in fourth gear at 3000 rpm with a 3.70 diff I > > should be going 60 mph +/-. However I have a 4.10 diff which is a 10% > reduction so I am actually going 54 mph. Then. . .I flip on the Jtype OD > and take > it back up to 3000 rpm and I am now going 72 mph. OR. . .I maintain 54 mph > > and the rpms drop to 2400. Yes? > Doing the math, with a 4.10:1 diff, you will be running 54 MPH @ 3000 RPM (as you stated) and flipping on the O/D will drop your RPM's to 2400, also as you stated. But bringing the engine speed back up to 3000 will bring the car's velocity to only 68 MPH. Figure it this way: with a 3.70:1 diff and overdrive, 3000 RPM will give you 75 MPH. 75 MPH *(3.7/4.1) = 67.6 MPH. Just like 60 MPH *(3.7/4.1) = 54 MPH without overdrive. Also consider each 2 MPH tick on the tack as roughly equal to 4 MPH in direct and 5 MPH in overdrive. With these two benchmarks and the increments, a little mental math will give you your speed reasonably closely. BTW, my calculations for the J-type tells me 3000 RPM in overdrive is closer to 76 MPH, but who's counting? Cheers, Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jan 6 06:15:47 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 08:15:47 EST Subject: [TR] Torque Wrench Message-ID: In a message dated 1/5/2009 9:20:58 PM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > Odd ... I thought this thread started because Bob Danielson was trying to > install his CV joints. > > Randall > > > Me too. This just shows you how far off the path we have really wandered! > Is this collective ADD? Dave (I don't have AD...oh, look a butterfly) From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Jan 6 07:52:58 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 09:52:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core References: Message-ID: I have owned my 1931 Ford Model A for 32 years, the battery is about 12 years old now and the car has been cranked about three times during those 32 years and always for show and not need. Except the extra cooling power you will more need and forget that hole "@#$) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:20 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core > In a message dated 1/5/2009 10:38:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > ZoboHerald at aol.com writes: > > Well, there's always that one time your battery is flat and the car is on > a > > dead-level stretch of road with no one around except you and the starting > handle...which no longer fits through the radiator.... :-) > > > > Or there are those many times that your car overheats because of the > diminished cooling capacity. You can go upside your own head with the > starting > handle for putting the hole back in. (wink, wink) > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to > celebrity break-ups and everything in between. > (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3a at comcast.net Tue Jan 6 07:57:10 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 09:57:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49637146.1030005@comcast.net> So, Fred...what's your opinion of the crank hole???? :) FRED E THOMAS wrote: I have owned my 1931 Ford Model A for 32 years, the battery is about 12 years old now and the car has been cranked about three times during those 32 years and always for show and not need. Except the extra cooling power you will more need and forget that hole "@#$) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:20 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In a message dated 1/5/2009 10:38:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ZoboHerald at aol.com writes: Well, there's always that one time your battery is flat and the car is on a dead-level stretch of road with no one around except you and the starting handle...which no longer fits through the radiator.... :-) Or there are those many times that your car overheats because of the diminished cooling capacity. You can go upside your own head with the starting handle for putting the hole back in. (wink, wink) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to celebrity break-ups and everything in between. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Jan 6 08:11:11 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 10:11:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Car Parts Location Service - BreakerLink - 100% FREE Service! Message-ID: <28BD9AD2762C481BBF44C3AA772F1608@fred8kwiskhcfu> ----- Original Message ----- From: FRED E THOMAS To: fred thomas Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 2:35 AM Subject: Car Parts Location Service - BreakerLink - 100% FREE Service! http://www.breakerlink.com/index.php From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jan 6 08:32:01 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 10:32:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <20090106041112.LYZE2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <8CB3E2B0E387932-AF4-3F6@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Randall > Well, there's always that one time your battery is flat and > the car is on a dead-level stretch of road with no one around > except you and the starting handle...which no longer fits > through the radiator.... :-) Which is when you learn to push-start it by yourself. Not as hard as you might think. ==AM== Over the years, I've done that more times than I care to count! But I'd still someday like to find a Stanpart starting handle kit for one of my early Heralds. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jan 6 08:38:19 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 10:38:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> Hey, what can I say...except: 1. I like the anachronism and redundancy of a starting handle! 2. I drove a then-beater of a 12-year-old TR3A daily for several years, especially in hot summers...and *never* had it overheat! (I did keep the cooling system clean, including the block where all that crud tends to accumulate.) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Jan 6 14:31:22 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 14:31:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com> OTOH, when my starter failed 3 hours into a 7-day trip I was glad to have that crank along. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/crank-it.JPG Got a lot of practice that week. Geo From kimbrelltr4 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 6 14:46:12 2009 From: kimbrelltr4 at yahoo.com (Jeff W. Kimbrell) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:46:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] camber specifications TR4 Message-ID: <183427.97135.qm@web45016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I own a 1962 TR4. The specification for the camber on the front end is listed as 2 degrees positive in the repair manual. However I have noticed several parts offered which can give you a fixed, or adjustable negative camber setting . My question is if there is a handling advantage in changing from the stock specification to the negative setting ? Thanks, Jeff W. Kimbrell From cak at dimebank.com Tue Jan 6 14:52:59 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 13:52:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers Message-ID: <200901062152.n06LqxvQ029081@moose.dimebank.com> > Martin Macgregor in Dundas, Ontario lists carpet sets for a GT6 Thanks. I'm guessing that he, too, is reselling the Newton Commerical carpet set listed here: http://www.newtoncomm.co.uk/cars/triumph/product.jsp?ref=2737&model=35&series=154&type=3 Quite dear, but they own the technology. Sigh. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 6 15:30:49 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 22:30:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] camber specifications TR4 Message-ID: <010620092230.22131.4963DB990001B0B10000567322155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Jeff W. Kimbrell" > I own a 1962 TR4. The specification for the camber on the front end is listed as > 2 degrees positive in the repair manual. Yes, to match the camber pull of the the toe-in. Give a nice, stable steering on the highway. > However I have noticed several parts > offered which can give you a fixed, or adjustable negative camber setting . Interesting. Where did you see this? Most parts I see are for the TR4A and the cars that followed. > My > question is if there is a handling advantage in changing from the stock > specification to the negative setting ? Absolutely. Positive camber is awful for cornering. The concept is that you want to use the whole face f the tire tread evenly. This means that the dynamic camber (the camber that you have on the outside wheel while actually cornering) should be zero or a bit negative. An unequal-length upper/lower wishbone suspension is designed to make the camber go more negative as the car leans. This effect is measured by a "camber curve". The camber curve on a TR4 is not going to go negative enough to cancel out both the positive static camber and the tilting of the chassis. A big front swaybar helps (and has the added happy effect of nailing down the inside front wheel), by lessening body roll. If you start with a negative static camber, you can tune the car to have an optimal dynamic camber. You want to match that negative camber with a bit of toe-out to lessen tire wear on the highway. You steering will not be the solid, stable setup that was designed-in, but a darty responsive type ideal for autocrossing but more tiring on long freeway drives. These camber parts are not likely to be legal for Vintage Triumph Register stock-category autocrossing, but the sway bar is... -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jan 6 15:33:56 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 22:33:56 +0000 Subject: [TR] camber specifications TR4 Message-ID: <010620092233.28828.4963DC54000D68940000709C22155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > want to use the whole face f the tire tread evenly. This means that the dynamic want to use the whole face OF the tire tread evenly. This means that the dynamic > The camber curve on a TR4 is not going to go negative enough to cancel out both > the positive static camber and the tilting of the chassis. A big front swaybar > helps (and has the added happy effect of nailing down the inside front wheel), helps (and has the added happy effect of nailing down the inside REAR wheel), Damn, I hate typos. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 6 15:31:37 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 16:31:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core References: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> <7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <006901c9704f$10972d00$438ca8c0@Ranteer.local> does it really work? and, how much work is it??? ----- Original Message ----- From: Geo Hahn To: TR List Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 3:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core OTOH, when my starter failed 3 hours into a 7-day trip I was glad to have that crank along. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/crank-it.JPG Got a lot of practice that week. Geo From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 6 15:34:57 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 16:34:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers References: <200901051801.n05I1FKN014468@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <006a01c9704f$10dc4c50$438ca8c0@Ranteer.local> martin macgregor provides very high quality stuff and is a pleasure to deal with. nfi ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Fenwick To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 10:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 seat foams/covers Martin Macgregor in Dundas, Ontario lists carpet sets for a GT6 http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Categ ory_Code=GT6-Cockpit NFI, but I find him a decent chap to deal with. Jeff From tr3a at comcast.net Tue Jan 6 16:06:59 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 18:06:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <006901c9704f$10972d00$438ca8c0@Ranteer.local> References: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> <7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com> <006901c9704f$10972d00$438ca8c0@Ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4963E413.5000109@comcast.net> Sure it does. Not hard at all. Assuming your engine is in good condition and the problem is with a dead battery or a faulty starter. However, if you've just killed the battery by cranking it for 10 minutes and it still wouldn't start, a hand crank ain't gonna help! I do recommend keeping all of your fingers and your thumb on the same side of the crank handle though (don't grab it like a baseball bat). Sometimes there's a bit of a kickback and if your thumb's in the way, well... Oliver wrote: does it really work? and, how much work is it??? ----- Original Message ----- From: Geo Hahn To: TR List Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 3:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core OTOH, when my starter failed 3 hours into a 7-day trip I was glad to have that crank along. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/crank-it.JPG Got a lot of practice that week. Geo This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 6 17:51:12 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:51:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <006901c9704f$10972d00$438ca8c0@Ranteer.local> References: <7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com> <006901c9704f$10972d00$438ca8c0@Ranteer.local> Message-ID: <200901061951.12785.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 06 January 2009 17:31:37 Oliver wrote: > does it really work? and, how much work is it??? > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Geo Hahn > To: TR List > Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 3:31 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core > Oliver, I used to know a bunch of 3 owners way back in the 80's and we had a get-together one Sunday at a park somewhere south of Syracuse and there was a contest for who could start their 3 with the crank the quickest. Well I won hands down as my 3 has always started on the first crank with the Lucas starter or the hand crank. But there is a safety trick: make sure when you grip the handle, insure your thumb is right on top next to your pointer then other hand on top of all. If you "grip" the handle as you would think to get the best pull, thumb under and wrapped around the handle, you risk a broken bone if there is a backfire! Bob From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 6 18:07:59 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 18:07:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com> References: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> <7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Geo, Wait a minute! You have four guys standing there watching you crank? Were they too good to give you a push when your starter failed? BTW, I am still looking for a crank for the '58 if anyone has a spare to sell. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 2:31 PM To: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core OTOH, when my starter failed 3 hours into a 7-day trip I was glad to have that crank along. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/crank-it.JPG Got a lot of practice that week. Geo This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.2/1876 - Release Date: 1/6/2009 5:16 PM From tr3a at comcast.net Tue Jan 6 18:09:21 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:09:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: References: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> <7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <496400C1.1030001@comcast.net> The crank's easier. :) wbeech wrote: Geo, Wait a minute! You have four guys standing there watching you crank? Were they too good to give you a push when your starter failed? BTW, I am still looking for a crank for the '58 if anyone has a spare to sell. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 2:31 PM To: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core OTOH, when my starter failed 3 hours into a 7-day trip I was glad to have that crank along. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/crank-it.JPG Got a lot of practice that week. Geo This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.2/1876 - Release Date: 1/6/2009 5:16 PM This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From 60TR3A at cox.net Tue Jan 6 18:27:26 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 18:27:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: References: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> <7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Many years ago when we bought an 80 MG Midget with a gimpy started for our son to drive to high school when he had soccer practice. He was worried about what would happen if the starter failed. I told him not to worry he would have to fight the people away if he needed a push start. He doubted me until the first time it would not start & he had 6 guys pushing him! Besides at the time we lived in Pittsburgh where it is really hard not to park on a hill!!! :-) On 6 Jan, 2009, at 6:07 PM, wbeech wrote: > Geo, > > Wait a minute! You have four guys standing there watching you > crank? Were > they too good to give you a push when your starter failed? > > BTW, I am still looking for a crank for the '58 if anyone has a > spare to > sell. > > Thx, > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is > called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn > Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 2:31 PM > To: TR List > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core > > OTOH, when my starter failed 3 hours into a 7-day trip I was glad to > have > that crank along. > > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/crank-it.JPG > > Got a lot of practice that week. > > Geo > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.2/1876 - Release Date: > 1/6/2009 > 5:16 PM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Jan 6 19:34:41 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 20:34:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core References: <8CB3E2BEF283D18-AF4-461@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com><7bb181af0901061331v4cdc5a53s2ea9344a6a712751@mail.gmail.com><006901c9704f$10972d00$438ca8c0@Ranteer.local> <4963E413.5000109@comcast.net> Message-ID: > I do recommend keeping all of your fingers and your thumb on the same > side of the crank handle though (don't grab it like a baseball bat). > Sometimes there's a bit of a kickback and if your thumb's in the way, > well... Here's the real story on keeping your thumb on the same side as your fingers. I've owned a 1916 Model T Ford for 40 years - and starters weren't even available as an option until 1917. When there's a kickback, that crank can spin like a propeller for a second or so - really scary especially if you've never seen it before, or if your hand and wrist are in the middle of the spinning steel. Of course, you're doing something wrong if there's a kickback -- but they can and sometimes do happen. As long as you're pulling UP on the crank handle, if there's a kickback (the result of too-early spark) the crank will pull away from you and your hand. Having your fingers and thumb all on one side (the outside) lessens the strength of your grip and helps the crank throw your hand out and away. But even if you wrap your thumb around the other side, chances are you'll be OK. The really bad problem - and the usual cause of broken thumbs, wrists, arms, shoulders, etc. - is PUSHING down on the crank. DON'T EVER PUSH DOWN ON THE CRANK. If you push and there's a kickback, the crank (and engine) is pushing back against you. Even if your fingers and thumb are on the same side - even if they're on the outside - you're pushing down into that crank that's pushing back at you. It's stronger than you and all your bones. People have even literally been launched into the air by a kicking crank when they've pushed down and had a kickback. Soooo... To crank a car, only pull up. Try to set it up so the crank is at the 7:30 to 8:00 position or so, and pull up about 90 degrees. Have your fingers and thumb on the outside of the circle described by the crank handle, so if it kicks back your hand will be flung AWAY. Don't ever try to crank round-and-round - just pull up a quarter turn or so at a time. If the engine is in tune it'll start that way and you'll be safe. A car is really nothing to crank start. Try flipping a (sharp trailing edge) metal airplane propeller in the winter time. That really feels nice when it kicks back against your frozen hands ;-) Good luck, and be careful !! Karl PS - There are times you need to crank a Model T round-and-round, specifically to crank out a flood. When doing that you open the throttle all the way, make triple-sure the ignition is off and the spark is all the way retarded, and give a few tentative test pulls before spinning it all the way around a few turns. In a Triumph you probably won't ever need to do that, and you can clear the flood by pulling the plugs too. In a TR you don't have any overt control over the ignition timing except to turn it off. Please don't even try it. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue Jan 6 20:19:03 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 22:19:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 In-Reply-To: <61326191060095c5a5ffa8dc4206b033@wmsfam.net> References: <008201c96def$f4c9d890$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> <61326191060095c5a5ffa8dc4206b033@wmsfam.net> Message-ID: It is the vent lid in front of the windscreen, centered. As you noted, the control leaver is in the passenger side of the center counsel. Pull it to open the vent and push the lever back in to close it. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: Williams Family [mailto:wms at wmsfam.net] Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 1:22 PM To: Scott Suhring Cc: ; 'Bob'; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Scott... thanks for the info; quick question as I have a 70 TR6. Could you describe in more detail the scuttle vent? Are you talking about one of the push/pull knobs (under the plinith control) or the top vent aft the bonnet; whose control is to the right of the radio console? Rayvon Williams Scotts Valley, CA '70 TR6 On Jan 4, 2009, at 5:25 PM, Scott Suhring wrote: > Bob: > > I believe you are correct in that the first pull will get your heat to > the > defrost and a second to the feet and vents. Key to getting any heat > is that > the scuttle vent must be pulled open or you will get nothing. > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3A > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 5:10 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 > > Hello List, > Happy and Healthy New Year to all. > It is cold and getting colder. > My question regards correct operation of the heater specifically the > air > distribution control on a '70 TR6. > Control pulled one click for defrost I get warm air to windshield. > Pulled 2 clicks for heat and defrost I get warm air to windshield and > bottom > heater vent > Knob not pulled out what should happen? > Outside Air flap near windshield should do what open or closed? > Dash vents always have cold outside air is this correct? > I have a 180 degree thermostat and seem to remember I had a lot more > heat in > my TR250 when used as an everyday driver. > Anyone in the North using a 195 degree thermostat in winter? > Regards, > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr6 at wmsfam.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 7 06:14:48 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:14:48 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: In a message dated 1/6/2009 5:07:08 PM Central Standard Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: > I do recommend keeping all of your fingers and your thumb on the same > side of the crank handle though (don't grab it like a baseball bat). > Sometimes there's a bit of a kickback and if your thumb's in the way, > well... > I have hand cranked my TR3 (mostly as a parlor trick at car shows) which got me to thinking about the safety issues. To me the big problem is due to the fact that the timing is set before TDC. If the spark ignites the fuel BTDC the engine can run backwards for half a turn or so. And it will do so with a lot of force. Therefore, there are two things to keep in mind when hand cranking an engine: 1: Keep your legs out of the turning circle of the crank. Since the engaging dog is designed to disengage when running forward it will hold fast when running backwards. If your leg is in the way it will get broke. 2: Always pull and never push the handle. If the engine dies kick back it will pull the handle out of your hands if you are pulling. If you are pushing it will toss you into the weeds (more likely break your wrist or arm). In my opinion, concerning yourself where you put your thumb is trivial after these two considerations. To minimize the risk of kick back one can retard the timing. The distributor is mounted on a plate with a slot in it. If this plate is positioned at full advance when the timing is set one needs only to loosen the screw, retard the timing during starting, and then set the distributor back to full advance to set the timing back to the original setting. ***Warning, shaggy dog alert*** Years ago I worked with a guy who came of age between WW2 and the Korean War. He bought a motorcycle that was equipped with a timing retard lever for starting purposes. Soon after he got it his brother came over to see it. Hollis, in his enthusiasm, was bragging about how easy it was to start. he turned the key on and operated the retard lever. As it just so happened, the last time he shut it down the engine stopped just after TDC. Retarding the timing caused the points, that were closed, to open again. The spark ignited the gasoline that was still in the cylinder (since it had been run recently) and caused the engine to start with no further involvement from him. His bother's remark was "Boy, it really does start easily." Hand starting a TR3 is fun and satisfying but there are risks involved. Take great care in doing so. Please. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 7 06:25:27 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:25:27 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: In a message dated 1/6/2009 7:27:48 PM Central Standard Time, 60TR3A at cox.net writes: > Besides at the time we lived in Pittsburgh where > it is really hard not to park on a hill! But easy enough to park at the BOTTOM of a hill which does you no good. Happened to me once in a VW with a dead battery. Dave From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Jan 7 07:05:12 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:05:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core References: Message-ID: <24D617AE881B427B91341BE6EC39C337@KARL> Happens all the time with Model T's -- in fact you can set it up to do so -- if you're lucky, and the engine is loose, the oil is warm, and the moon is in the right phase. And the spark lever is something to keep bystanders and "helpers" away from while you're cranking. > He bought a motorcycle that was equipped with a timing retard lever for > starting purposes. As it just so happened, the last time > he shut it down the engine stopped just after TDC. Retarding the timing > caused the points, that were closed, to open again. The spark ignited the > gasoline that was still in the cylinder (since it had been run recently) > and caused > the engine to start with no further involvement from him. His bother's > remark > was "Boy, it really does start easily." From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Wed Jan 7 07:10:13 2009 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:10:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <332EDF653E1E4A8B9E47BA81CA21B18B@aitinc.local> I feel like such a whimp with my TR6 with my shiney-dime-store-gear-reduction starter. Ford Model A's had a stem on the streering column that allowed you to retard the timing to allow easier starting by hand. Once you had the engine running you would move the lever to advance the timing back to normal position in order to get power out of the engine. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com > I have hand cranked my TR3 (mostly as a parlor trick at car shows) which > got > me to thinking about the safety issues. To me the big problem is due to > the > fact that the timing is set before TDC. If the spark ignites the fuel > BTDC the > engine can run backwards for half a turn or so. And it will do so with a > lot > of force. From kentshrack at yahoo.com Wed Jan 7 07:38:53 2009 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 06:38:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Hand Crank Message-ID: <947123.75882.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I have hand cranked our early V8 Cadillac, but only after I had it warmed up and the spark retarded. I would hate to think of trying to start it on a cold morning with only the hand crank. Kent Shrack From L1J1S at aol.com Wed Jan 7 07:51:11 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 09:51:11 EST Subject: [TR] Hand Crank Message-ID: kent, i suggest you hit the gym for several weeks before you attempt to hand crank that motor. larry schwartz **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Jan 7 08:42:32 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:42:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <332EDF653E1E4A8B9E47BA81CA21B18B@aitinc.local> References: <332EDF653E1E4A8B9E47BA81CA21B18B@aitinc.local> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901070742t1a4a72fr2ff368bd70fa2375@mail.gmail.com> And, I suppose, the vernier adjuster on TR3 dizzys would make it easy to retard for starting then return to the running spec. But I have never had any kickback with my '3 which is set at the usual advance. Geo On Wed, Jan 7, 2009 at 7:10 AM, Terry Geiger wrote: > Ford Model A's had a stem on the streering column that allowed you to > retard the timing to allow easier starting by hand. Once you had the engine > running you would move the lever to advance the timing back to normal > position in order to get power out of the engine. From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 7 08:44:23 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 10:44:23 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/2009 8:05:35 AM Central Standard Time, kvacek at ameritech.net writes: > Happens all the time with Model T's -- in fact you can set it up to do so > -- > if you're lucky, and the engine is loose, the oil is warm, and the moon is > in the right phase. > So, there's your self starter. Who need electric motors? ;-) Cheers Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 7 09:00:09 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:00:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901070742t1a4a72fr2ff368bd70fa2375@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20090107160009.BHUS2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > But I have never had any kickback with my '3 which is > set at the usual advance. Just a WAG, but this may be exactly why the static timing on a '3 is so late, compared to other engines. 4 degrees is a mighty small angle, so I'd guess that even if the cylinder did light off, the inertia of the crank and flywheel would still carry it over to the power side of the stroke. Come to think of it, that might explain that huge flywheel, too. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 7 09:07:51 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 11:07:51 EST Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/2009 10:00:32 AM Central Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > >But I have never had any kickback with my '3 which is > >set at the usual advance. > > Just a WAG, but this may be exactly why the static timing on a '3 is so > late, compared to other engines. 4 degrees is a mighty small angle, so I'd > guess that even if the cylinder did light off, the inertia of the crank and > flywheel would still carry it over to the power side of the stroke. > > Come to think of it, that might explain that huge flywheel, too. > The other purpose of the huge flywheel might be to counteract the effects of compression which will tend to push back. Get that flywheel inertia to carry on through the compression stroke. Dave From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Jan 7 09:10:23 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 11:10:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4964D3EF.6010407@comcast.net> So, should I punch a hole through my new core? :) Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: In a message dated 1/7/2009 10:00:32 AM Central Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: But I have never had any kickback with my '3 which is set at the usual advance. Just a WAG, but this may be exactly why the static timing on a '3 is so late, compared to other engines. 4 degrees is a mighty small angle, so I'd guess that even if the cylinder did light off, the inertia of the crank and flywheel would still carry it over to the power side of the stroke. Come to think of it, that might explain that huge flywheel, too. The other purpose of the huge flywheel might be to counteract the effects of compression which will tend to push back. Get that flywheel inertia to carry on through the compression stroke. Dave This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 7 09:11:58 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 16:11:58 -0000 Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core References: <20090107160009.BHUS2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <02381F4003DE4647A35F290A1D36E266@Bevan> Always used to handcrank my lovely old Fergie tractor. Always fired and ran on the first swing. Although it had a fully operable starter motor, it never seemed too kind to send 12 volts and whatever amps into a 6 volt unit. Mind you, a 5.5:1 CR was helpful. Jonmac From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Jan 7 09:39:01 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 11:39:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Parts Message-ID: <4964DAA5.3070901@comcast.net> I happened to come across this craigslist ad. If anyone is looking for '3, '4, '250 and '6 parts, this guy says he has lots of 'em. I emailed him and asked about a few things for a TR3, none of which I need...he has an OD Gearbox, $1200; front apron (didn't think to ask which one, sorry), $400; set of working horns, $65. Ad is here < http://atlanta.craigslist.org/pts/950983969.html > and says..." let me know what you need probbly have it". NFI From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Jan 7 09:49:52 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 11:49:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3/4/250/6 Parts In-Reply-To: <4964DAA5.3070901@comcast.net> References: <4964DAA5.3070901@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4964DD30.4080001@comcast.net> Sorry...just a change to the Subject line. Left off a few models. Michael Ferguson wrote: > I happened to come across this craigslist ad. If anyone is looking for > '3, '4, '250 or '6 parts, this guy says he has lots of 'em. I emailed > him and asked about a few things for a TR3, none of which I need...he > has an OD Gearbox, $1200; front apron (didn't think to ask which one, > sorry), $400; set of working horns, $65. > > Ad is here < http://atlanta.craigslist.org/pts/950983969.html > and > says..." let me know what you need probbly have it". > > I don't know anything about the guy and have NFI. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From aribert at c3net.net Wed Jan 7 09:52:38 2009 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 11:52:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Fuel pump safety switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43a87937ca66c07964e28b08796d4534.squirrel@server6.glis.net> For North American listers, I used a cut out switch from a late '80s vintage Ford. Specifically, I used one from a Taurus. I went to a serve yourself type of a salvage yard and bought the connector and a length of harness for a dollar or two (this was 5 or 6 years ago) and bought a new switch from the dealer (at that time about $14). THe switch is typically located on the left rear quarter inner and it has a reset switch. I have seen this (same?) switch in the racer catalogs at about $60. This is an inertia activated switch. > List: > > One thing inevitably leads to another, and another.... > > I have installed Webers on my project TR3, which necessitated an electric > fuel pump, which I will wire into the ignition switch. I know there are > safety switches which tie into the oil pressure and ensure pump cut-out in > the event of catastrophic failure. > > Does anyone on the list have experience with these? I have been told that > they aren't particularly reliable, and may shut the fuel pump off at > inopportune times. > > Any help would be great - thanks ! > > Andrew From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Wed Jan 7 09:54:29 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 10:54:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <4964D3EF.6010407@comcast.net> References: <4964D3EF.6010407@comcast.net> Message-ID: Just use a hole saw to make the opening, it will be fine! %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 11:10:23 -0500 > From: tr3a at comcast.net > To: Dave1massey at cs.com > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core > > So, should I punch a hole through my new core? :) From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Jan 7 10:03:32 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 12:03:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: References: <4964D3EF.6010407@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4964E064.4050909@comcast.net> Umm, I already HAVE one that works like that! But thanks. :) Rich White wrote: Just use a hole saw to make the opening, it will be fine! %^) Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 11:10:23 -0500 From: tr3a at comcast.net To: Dave1massey at cs.com CC: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core So, should I punch a hole through my new core? :) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From kentshrack at yahoo.com Wed Jan 7 10:15:21 2009 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 09:15:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Hand Crank Message-ID: <298878.68986.qm@web57801.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Some Model T's under the right conditions are self starters. If the engine stops at the correct place, and if there is still fuel vapor in they cylinders from when it was stopped, It is not uncommon to light off the coils, and when you slide the advance back, the timer will fire off a cylinder and the engine will start. No starter, no hand crank. It can't have set too long from running as the gas mixture is gone. From cak at dimebank.com Wed Jan 7 10:22:02 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 09:22:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Message-ID: <200901071722.n07HM2Dg028723@moose.dimebank.com> > Key to getting any heat is that the scuttle vent must be pulled > open or you will get nothing. That's not strictly true; you can get heat with the scuttle vent closed if you turn on the fan; that's the way to get recirculated air inside the car, rather than fresh air. From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 7 10:48:52 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 17:48:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Message-ID: <010720091748.8531.4964EB04000CD5180000215322165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Chris Kantarjiev > > Key to getting any heat is that the scuttle vent must be pulled > > open or you will get nothing. > > That's not strictly true; you can get heat with the scuttle vent > closed if you turn on the fan; that's the way to get recirculated > air inside the car, rather than fresh air. Where does the makeup air come from? I mean, how does it get from the cockpit to the vacuum side of the fan? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 7 10:58:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 09:58:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core In-Reply-To: <4964D3EF.6010407@comcast.net> References: <4964D3EF.6010407@comcast.net> Message-ID: <230401c970f1$97d8d910$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > So, should I punch a hole through my new core? :) As always, it's up to you. But that is exactly how they install crank holes into new cores, cut a hole and then seal up the cut tubes. My radiator shop offered to do it as part of installing the new core. We didn't get around to discussing price, but I'm sure it wouldn't be much. Randall From cak at dimebank.com Wed Jan 7 11:00:17 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 10:00:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Message-ID: <200901071800.n07I0HdF027535@moose.dimebank.com> > > > Key to getting any heat is that the scuttle vent must be pulled > > > open or you will get nothing. > > > > That's not strictly true; you can get heat with the scuttle vent > > closed if you turn on the fan; that's the way to get recirculated > > air inside the car, rather than fresh air. > > Where does the makeup air come from? I mean, how does it get from the > cockpit to the vacuum side of the fan? Oh my. It would be easier to answer this if my 4A (which has the same setup) wasn't 1000 miles away. My immediate memory is that air gets drawn from the fresh air vents at the outer dash edges; those are "before" the heater core, and tap directly into the plenum that is fed by the scuttle vent. So that means that you have to open the fresh air vents for recirculating air to work. From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 7 11:12:51 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 18:12:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Message-ID: <010720091812.3233.4964F0A30007A7A000000CA122165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > My immediate memory is that air gets drawn from the fresh air vents > at the outer dash edges; those are "before" the heater core, and > tap directly into the plenum that is fed by the scuttle vent. > > So that means that you have to open the fresh air vents for recirculating > air to work. The important thing is not whether the side-vent air source is before the heater core, but if it is bofore the blower fan. So you are telling me that air does not come out of the side vents with the blower? I mean, if you are sitting at a dead stop, scuttle vent open, side vents open, and turn on the blower fan, does air blow into the cockpit from the side vents or not? The reason I don't know this is that in my TR4, I have never started the blower fan. Don't know if it works. You can't rush into these things... -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From jat1127 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 7 12:07:56 2009 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 14:07:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 3 A serial ? Message-ID: Hello, I am interested in a TR 3 serial TS 81027 L that is for sale a few hours from me. Is this car a TR 3 "B" with the full syncro gearbox? I have yet to look see the car but the seller says that the motors oil filler is at the front of the car not back near the battery. ??? Thanks John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Windows LiveTM: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_01200 9 From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 7 12:07:50 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 14:07:50 EST Subject: [TR] Hand cranking a Triumph - was TR3A radiator re-core Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/2009 10:10:40 AM Central Standard Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: > So, should I punch a hole through my new core? :) > Not necessarily. You could wrap a rope around the fan extension and pull-start it. ;-) From cak at dimebank.com Wed Jan 7 12:13:41 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 11:13:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Message-ID: <200901071913.n07JDfUe016525@moose.dimebank.com> > The important thing is not whether the side-vent air source is > before the heater core, but if it is bofore the blower fan. > So you are telling me that air does not come out of the side vents > with the blower? I really don't remember, but I think so. I *think* that the blower is at the bottom of the plenum stack above the gear box, just before the flap that controls up/down air control. But ... ok, that's not consistent, so now you've made me go and try to figure this out. Ah. Right. Thank goodness for the spare parts catalog. The blower is at the top of the large heater body. The heater body does not connect to the side vents; just to the vents at the base of the windscreen. The blower draws air from the plenum in the body that connects the scuttle vent and ... the fresh air vents at the dashboard ends. If you look at the owner's manual for the TR4 or TR4A, you will see that the factory called those vents *fresh air* vents. And the very first paragraph about HEATING AND VENTILATION says: The heater is designed to heat and distribute incoming fresh air, or if dust and exhaust fumes are being admitted, the heater may be used to recirculate air already in the vehicle. and goes on to explain just what I've been talking about. My memory is getting worse in many areas, but for some reason I continue to remember this sort of nonsense :-) From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 7 12:19:46 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 12:19:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 3 A serial ? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1A747E5F2B9E49B8B17BB36FAE7D5A95@sniffer> According to the Moss Catalog you are looking at a 1960 manufactured car, it would be a TR3A. While this one may have a full-syncro box in it, this would not have been the original transmission. The oil filter should be on the left side just below and behind the distributor. There should be an engine number on the block, behind the coil, that would look like "TS xxxxx E" If it is the correct engine it will be a few hundred numbers higher than the commission number that you have provided. Hope this helps, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john taylor Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 12:08 PM To: Triumphs at Autox.team.net daily digest Subject: [TR] TR 3 A serial ? Hello, I am interested in a TR 3 serial TS 81027 L that is for sale a few hours from me. Is this car a TR 3 "B" with the full syncro gearbox? I have yet to look see the car but the seller says that the motors oil filler is at the front of the car not back near the battery. ??? Thanks John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Windows LiveTM: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_0120 0 9 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.3/1879 - Release Date: 1/7/2009 8:49 AM From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Jan 7 12:25:18 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 13:25:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A radiator re-core References: Message-ID: <890979E94B8440AEA0407A3FC9ADAD6D@mikeslaptop> > the key on and operated the retard lever. As it just so happened, the > last time > he shut it down the engine stopped just after TDC. Retarding the timing > caused the points, that were closed, to open again. The spark ignited the > gasoline that was still in the cylinder (since it had been run recently) > and caused > the engine to start with no further involvement from him. His bother's > remark I read once that this was a trick used by chauffeurs of early Rolls Royce cars, before self starters were fitted to the cars. Mike From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 7 12:43:58 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 14:43:58 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/2009 11:22:22 AM Central Standard Time, cak at dimebank.com writes: > That's not strictly true; you can get heat with the scuttle vent > closed if you turn on the fan; that's the way to get recirculated > air inside the car, rather than fresh air. > This works well with the TR4. Just open a dash vent, they are connected to the same plenum as the scuttle vent. This doesn't work on the TR6, however, since the dash vents are connected to the fan discharge side and not the fan intake side, there is no source for air except for some minor air leaks that might be present. Dave From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Jan 7 12:48:32 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 19:48:32 GMT Subject: [TR] Rolling chassis's for sale Message-ID: <200901071248624.SM07304@[166.70.182.40]> Part of our move to Kentucky requires us to downsize our fleet of Triumphs.B With that in mind we have the following rolling chassis's available. TR4 rolling chassis with tub.B Tub is in relatively good shape.B Definitely worth restoring.B This would be a good candidate for someone that had a body that is worthless but otherwise complete. TR3 rolling chassis.B Very good shape.B Will likely need sand blasting. TR4 frame.B Will need sand blasting but in excellent shape. All are located just south of Little Rock Arkansas. Thanks, Brad From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 7 12:57:57 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 11:57:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR 3 A serial ? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <234501c97102$3cefc6b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I am interested in a TR 3 serial TS 81027 L that is for sale a few hours > > Is this car a TR 3 "B" with the full syncro gearbox? I agree with Bill; that number indicates a late TR3 "A". Made in late 1960, but might reasonably be registered as a 61 or even 62. It might have been retrofitted with a 4-synchro gearbox from a later car, but the original gearbox would be a 3-synchro. And the oil FILLER would originally have been at the front. Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Jan 7 12:59:33 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 14:59:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 3 A serial ? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB3F1998228A3C-E2C-E9@FWM-M26.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: john taylor Hello, I am interested in a TR 3 serial TS 81027 L that is for sale a few hours from me. Is this car a TR 3 "B" with the full syncro gearbox? ==AM== No, it's a 3A, as Bill noted. 3B car commission numbers started with TSF (pretty much as per 3A, but with all-synchro gearbox), or TCF (2138cc. engine and all-synchro gearbox). And, as Bill noted, it could easily have had an all-synchro gearbox installed at some point. There are folks who seem to go only by year of registration, so if it's registered as a '62, they assume it's a 3B (actually, a great number of 3Bs seem to have ended up first being titled as '63 models)! ==AM== I have yet to look see the car but the seller says that the motors oil filler is at the front of the car not back near the battery. ==AM== And that's as it should be with an original 3A engine. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From eoot at citlink.net Wed Jan 7 13:08:45 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 15:08:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A Message-ID: <00ff01c97103$bfb376e0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> All, What are the common indicators that the steering box is in need of a rebuild. TIA Ed From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 7 14:01:44 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 16:01:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 In-Reply-To: <200901071913.n07JDfUe016525@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200901071913.n07JDfUe016525@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <6EC6056A305140E4B6C813E6EC82A180@BOBSNEWPC> The '75 manual states....."the swiveling vents can be adjusted to admit cold air only.......air flow may be boosted by use of the blower motor." And that's how mine work..... Blower assisted cold air (or hot air in the summer) but never a hint of heated air......and my heater works great. Maybe a '70 with that outside scuttle flap works differently but I thought they were the same. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Kantarjiev Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 2:14 PM To: pethier at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 heat '70 > The important thing is not whether the side-vent air source is before > the heater core, but if it is bofore the blower fan. > So you are telling me that air does not come out of the side vents > with the blower? I really don't remember, but I think so. I *think* that the blower is at the bottom of the plenum stack above the gear box, just before the flap that controls up/down air control. But ... ok, that's not consistent, so now you've made me go and try to figure this out. Ah. Right. Thank goodness for the spare parts catalog. The blower is at the top of the large heater body. The heater body does not connect to the side vents; just to the vents at the base of the windscreen. The blower draws air from the plenum in the body that connects the scuttle vent and ... the fresh air vents at the dashboard ends. If you look at the owner's manual for the TR4 or TR4A, you will see that the factory called those vents *fresh air* vents. And the very first paragraph about HEATING AND VENTILATION says: The heater is designed to heat and distribute incoming fresh air, or if dust and exhaust fumes are being admitted, the heater may be used to recirculate air already in the vehicle. and goes on to explain just what I've been talking about. My memory is getting worse in many areas, but for some reason I continue to remember this sort of nonsense :-) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From cak at dimebank.com Wed Jan 7 14:07:27 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 13:07:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Message-ID: <200901072107.n07L7Rj5030342@moose.dimebank.com> > The '75 manual states....."the swiveling vents can be adjusted to admit cold > air only.......air flow may be boosted by use of the blower motor." I only have the TRF TF6 catalog, but the heater box is definitely not the same as for the TR4/4A; the TR6's heater box feeds the swiveling vents (all four of them, what luxury!) Best, chris From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Jan 7 15:34:46 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 17:34:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting a car Message-ID: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> Well, since asking a question here on a cold, ice-stormy day in Connecticut, is much more pleasant than working on my restoration in my unheated garage, I thought I'd throw this one out there. I am debating whether or not I have the nerve to attempt to paint my own car. Assuming I ever get that far. I've never painted anything much larger than an oil filler cap (well, except my HOUSE), so I have a lot to learn. Still, since there are multiple layers of things that need to be sprayed on the beast, I'm thinking that, at the very least, I could manage everything up to the finish coats. However, water, oil and compressor capacity are concerns so I was considering one of those HVLP turbine kits - no water, no oil and no compressor. TP Tools sells several, though they are only two-stage units and I would still need some sort of breathing device. Yesterday, I came across a four-stage unit called the AXIS Citation that comes with an Accuspray gun (gravity or bottom feed) as well as a full head respirator that provides a forced outside air supply. Either the TP or Axis kits will wind up costing about the same (by the time I buy a similar breathing unit for the TP). Just wondering if I should... 1) just give it up and pay someone to do this (which would be logistically difficult and I have to believe, considerably more expensive), 2) buy a respirator, standard HVLP guns, more filters/coolers/whatever and use the 2-stage compressor I already have (though I'm not sure it's enough) or 3) get one of these turbines/respirators and have at it. Do any of you know about either the TP or Axis turbines? Or other brands/models that may be preferable? Or are turbines simply not suitable, regardless of the seller's claims? I would really like to be able to say that I did it myself. On the other hand, I don't want it to look like I did it with a BRUSH!!! Any thoughts, personal experiences, caveats, opinions of the products mentioned (or others) would be most appreciated. Thanks! From L1J1S at aol.com Wed Jan 7 15:42:52 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 17:42:52 EST Subject: [TR] Painting a car Message-ID: **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 7 15:59:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 14:59:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A In-Reply-To: <00ff01c97103$bfb376e0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> References: <00ff01c97103$bfb376e0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: <23da01c9711b$888c1fb0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What are the common indicators that the steering box is in need of a > rebuild. 1) When it leaks oil so badly that you are tempted to use Penrite or similar abomination. 2) When careful adjustment fails to reveal the tight spot in the center. 3) When you remove it from the car to adjust it properly, and decide "as long as I'm here ...". BTW, the steering box on TS13571L still had oil in it from 30 years ago and still had the tight spot. I locked the adjustment and put it back in the car. Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jan 7 16:02:00 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 18:02:00 EST Subject: [TR] Painting a car Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/2009 5:35:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: Any thoughts, personal experiences, I am sure this will not be of much help but since you asked. I have painted one car in my lifetime. It was my 76 Triumph Spitfire in Carmine Red nearly 25 years ago. I was really into it and spend days primering and sanding it until the day of the spray. In those days lacquer was the paint of choice. It was a real disaster for all I could get out of the spay can was like Carmine cotton candy. I then proceeded to sand for days again and I brought in a friend who said he knew how to do it and again we ended up with a dull finish that would not shine up after days of wet sanding, etc. Finally I took it to a professional and paid for a base coat/clear coat job which is to this day showing very well. You might think that Lacquer was the problem but right around the same time we attempted to paint my buddies Porsche 914 with enamel. We laid it on thick and it was looking good until the June Bugs came and started to do the back stroke on our still drying paint. Nothing like the positive flow paint booth like the pros have so you know what I would recommend. Regards, Darrell **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jan 7 16:18:21 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 18:18:21 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 Message-ID: In a message dated 1/7/2009 3:08:00 PM Central Standard Time, cak at dimebank.com writes: > I only have the TRF TF6 catalog, but the heater box is definitely > not the same as for the TR4/4A; the TR6's heater box feeds the > swiveling vents (all four of them, what luxury!) > Eggsactly. The TR6 plumbed its dash vents from the fan output. The TR4, OTOH, has short ducts that run straight to the firewall where they get air from the cavity fed by the scuttle vent. Therefore the TR4 can recirculate air from the dash vents to the fan inlet. The TR6 cannot. But the TR6 can boost dash vent air with the fan. That's the tradeoff. Dave From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jan 7 16:21:34 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 18:21:34 EST Subject: [TR] Painting a car Message-ID: I am with Darrell on this one. You are concerned about all the right things except you left out SILICONE! I never found the source (even changed compressors) but the guy who eventually painted the remaining car for me identified it as the problem. IMHO if you are satisfied with orange peel, sags, etc but a relatively clean looking car, then paint it yourself. My recommendation is to find someone who will spray it for you in the proper environment. Make a deal that you do all the prep work as well as the wet sanding and buffing. You will gain the personal satisfaction that you are looking for without the aggravation. I got mine sprayed for $1200 materials included and the paint was about $500. I have since found that it could have been done cheaper, but I was OK with that. BTW you are likely to have to sign a statement that you will not come back and bitch as the key to a great paint job is prep and you are going to be doing that. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215195222x1200993641/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=82%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO82) From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jan 7 16:26:11 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 18:26:11 EST Subject: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A Message-ID: How about moving the wheel between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock and the car continues to go straight? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215195222x1200993641/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=82%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO82) From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Jan 7 16:47:12 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 18:47:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting a car In-Reply-To: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Mike, I have wrestled with this problem too. I found a alternative that is working for me that you might want to consider. I was at a local car show last summer and one of the things I was investigating was where everyone had their cars painted. It seemed that the typical paint job with moderate bodywork was in the $4,000 - $5,000 dollar range. I was beginning to think I would never finish my TR4A restoration with those kinds of costs. I had painted a couple of cars using the old type of lacquer paints that you could buy up till about the mid 80's or so. They were great. Easy to apply and they would flash over dry to the touch in seconds so there was no dirt in the paint. With the new base coat - clear coat paint systems used today come the new hazards of much more toxic chemicals than I ever used. The last guy I talked to at the show had a beautiful red 1967 Mustang and when I asked him who painted it, is said, "I did". When I asked him how, one thing led to another and it turned out that our local adult education school system offers several courses in auto body and he chose the Saturday morning class. While they offer several versions of a career type class, they also offer a weekend class for people who want to learn how to repair their own car body damage and paint it. They have all the equipment from very nice D/A sanders, to body hammers and dollies, MIG welders, AND a very modern paint booth! You can learn to do whatever you want using their equipement so you can save your money for and overdrive or what ever.. They encourage students to bring in something they want to fix or they can buy a new fender for $30.00 and repair it instead. The cost for the class is $170.00 per semester for 7 Saturdays. Since I am considered a "senior" I get it for 50% off so I am taking two classes back to back on Saturdays. I encourage you to check around your area to see if there are any similar classes offered! This is a great opportunity to get your car painted and learn something too. I have a website for my car and there is a section on the class which shows my progress on my first fender if you want to check it out but please look in your area for this as it is a great opportunity. http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a Go to "Check my Progress" and click on the first link. Good luck! Dave Connitt '67 TR4A From eoot at citlink.net Wed Jan 7 17:12:23 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 19:12:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A References: <00ff01c97103$bfb376e0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> <23da01c9711b$888c1fb0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <001701c97125$c84d2f40$690a0a0a@WANDERER> OK then 1) Yep, tried the Penrite. 2) We are still talking about the steering box here right? 3) You have to remove it from the car to adjust correctly? Seriously, I do want to get the leak stopped so that is one motivation. When I adjusted I found that the "tight spot was only in one direction. Also have a fair amount of free play in the wheel, ie...the 11 and 1 movement but the car still goes straight. The other thing I notice is that the car wanders a bit on it's own. Randall, I have already printed out 3 postings of yours on removal without removing the apron etc.....I just wanted to be sure this is going to fix the issues. TIA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 5:59 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A >> What are the common indicators that the steering box is in need of a >> rebuild. > > 1) When it leaks oil so badly that you are tempted to use Penrite or > similar > abomination. > > 2) When careful adjustment fails to reveal the tight spot in the center. > > 3) When you remove it from the car to adjust it properly, and decide "as > long as I'm here ...". > > BTW, the steering box on TS13571L still had oil in it from 30 years ago > and > still had the tight spot. I locked the adjustment and put it back in the > car. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From eoot at citlink.net Wed Jan 7 17:13:36 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 19:13:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A References: Message-ID: <002501c97125$f3a78320$690a0a0a@WANDERER> Thanks David. Yup, that's one of the symptoms. ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: eoot at citlink.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 6:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A How about moving the wheel between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock and the car continues to go straight? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jan 7 17:41:41 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 19:41:41 EST Subject: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A Message-ID: There are two areas of adjustment you pay attention to. One is the adjustment of the pressure on the top of the rocker shaft which is done by the screw on top of the cover with jam nut. That is a matter of gentle adjustment. The other is the end float in the worm inside the box and that is a matter of removing the box, maybe replacing bearings and races and shimming the cover to get '0' end float. This is a shipwrights issue because while you are doing this, I highly recommend replacing the silentblocs with the Delrin bushes in the steering gear AND be sure to check out the idler as to play. If your problem is leaking and it is coming from the bottom of the rocker shaft you have a seal to replace. If it is leaking from the "nut and olive" (lets not start that again) that is a different issue. Be warned that once you get in there you may find a worn rocker shaft and chipped worm and that is about $400 in new parts, as I recall. Randall is far better versed in this exercise, but this is what I found when I did mine. BTW it is not as precise as rack and pinion but it steers unbelievably well now. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215195222x1200993641/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=82%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO82) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 7 17:39:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 16:39:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A In-Reply-To: <001701c97125$c84d2f40$690a0a0a@WANDERER> References: <00ff01c97103$bfb376e0$650a0a0a@MyComputski><23da01c9711b$888c1fb0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <001701c97125$c84d2f40$690a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: <242601c97129$9704ecd0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Also have > a fair amount of free play in the wheel, ie...the 11 and 1 movement but > the > car still goes straight. That is certainly another symptom, but it could also be caused by some DPO not knowing how to adjust the box. And you might be able to solve it by just replacing the peg rather than doing a complete rebuild. Although, once you've got the box out of the car, and the Pitman arm out of the box, you might as well change the bushing and seal anyway. That only leaves replacing the worm and bearings for a full rebuild; but they were effectively unobtanium when I did TS39781LO. TRF seems to have them listed now, but at those prices I might still be tempted to keep the old ones. Note that the tight spot should correspond to straight-ahead. The design intentionally provides for a certain amount of slop when the box is off-center. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 7 17:57:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 16:57:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Painting a car In-Reply-To: References: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> Message-ID: <243f01c9712c$2202d340$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > It seemed that the typical paint job with moderate > bodywork was in the $4,000 - $5,000 dollar range. Well, that makes me feel better! Since TS13571L is to be strictly a driver, never a show car, I took it to the local Earl Scheib outlet. With what I would call a moderate amount of bodywork (including two rust repairs, welding six splits, replacing a captive nut, filling an antenna hole, several larger dents, mounting the rear fenders, installing chrome beads and spats); and several add-ons for the paint job (painting doorjambs; painting underside of hood, trunk, spare tire lid, vent lid; black racing stripe); and their next-to-highest quality paint (several coats of integrated clear-coat, no color sanding), the estimate was $2000. After the bodyman got started, he pointed out another dozen or so places that needed attention ... OK, so I assumed he was going to sand off all the old primer and reskim it with filler but it turns out that is NOT what he was doing ... they wanted another $700 to fix all the little spots. Remains to be seen what I will get (yes, I fully expect to find the trademark overspray on the exhaust ), but I remain hopeful. They are supposed to be finishing off the bodywork today and shooting tomorrow, so I'll try to visit tomorrow morning and see how it looks. BTW, I could easily have done at least $1000 of that body work myself. Kind of wish I had, now. OTOH, this way maybe I'll have a running TR3 by the time the weather warms up next month. That will be worth it. Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 7 18:01:35 2009 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 20:01:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting a car References: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> <243f01c9712c$2202d340$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <071a01c9712c$a813a810$6401a8c0@STATION6> Would love to see those spats. Are they the ones that went for $4500 a few years ago on ebay? Alex Manzo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumphs'" Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 7:57 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Painting a car >> It seemed that the typical paint job with moderate >> bodywork was in the $4,000 - $5,000 dollar range. > > Well, that makes me feel better! > > Since TS13571L is to be strictly a driver, never a show car, I took it to > the local Earl Scheib outlet. With what I would call a moderate amount of > bodywork (including two rust repairs, welding six splits, replacing a > captive nut, filling an antenna hole, several larger dents, mounting the > rear fenders, installing chrome beads and spats); and several add-ons for > the paint job (painting doorjambs; painting underside of hood, trunk, > spare > tire lid, vent lid; black racing stripe); and their next-to-highest > quality > paint (several coats of integrated clear-coat, no color sanding), the > estimate was $2000. > > After the bodyman got started, he pointed out another dozen or so places > that needed attention ... OK, so I assumed he was going to sand off all > the > old primer and reskim it with filler but it turns out that is NOT what he > was doing ... they wanted another $700 to fix all the little spots. > > Remains to be seen what I will get (yes, I fully expect to find the > trademark overspray on the exhaust ), but I remain hopeful. > > They are supposed to be finishing off the bodywork today and shooting > tomorrow, so I'll try to visit tomorrow morning and see how it looks. > > BTW, I could easily have done at least $1000 of that body work myself. > Kind > of wish I had, now. OTOH, this way maybe I'll have a running TR3 by the > time the weather warms up next month. That will be worth it. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 7 18:59:05 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 17:59:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] Painting a car In-Reply-To: <071a01c9712c$a813a810$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> <243f01c9712c$2202d340$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <071a01c9712c$a813a810$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <246b01c97134$b0051150$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Would love to see those spats. Are they the ones that went for $4500 a few > years ago on ebay? Nope, just new ones from TRF. I'm assuming that as they are soft aluminum, a professional body man should be able to make them fit. Didn't even try them myself, just handed him the bag from TRF. I may be living in a fool's paradise ... I'll let you know Saturday. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Jan 7 19:00:29 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 19:00:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Steering box rebuild om 3A In-Reply-To: <002501c97125$f3a78320$690a0a0a@WANDERER> References: <002501c97125$f3a78320$690a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901071800j7c47d911w10c07142334c8944@mail.gmail.com> Of course there are several other components of the steering that can also cause such play, e.g. the silentblocs. You want to look at each part of the steering mechanism as someone wiggles the wheel to see just where you are getting slop and losing movement. Geo On Wed, Jan 7, 2009 at 5:13 PM, Ed Oot wrote: > Thanks David. > Yup, that's one of the symptoms. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: DLylis at aol.com > > How about moving the wheel between 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock and the car > continues to go straight? From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Wed Jan 7 19:23:29 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 21:23:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 heat '70 In-Reply-To: <200901071722.n07HM2Dg028723@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200901071722.n07HM2Dg028723@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <94B1F4BA74044752BE3BC8B5C5034526@Scott> I've never been able to get any noticeable heat, even with the fan on high (and yes, mine has a working low and high fan) if the vent is closed. My wife has pointed out to me on a few occasions that I forgot to open the vent since she was not getting any benefit to the heat at her feet. Once the vent is opened, the heat kicks in. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '5 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Kantarjiev Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 12:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 heat '70 > Key to getting any heat is that the scuttle vent must be pulled > open or you will get nothing. That's not strictly true; you can get heat with the scuttle vent closed if you turn on the fan; that's the way to get recirculated air inside the car, rather than fresh air. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as suhringtr36 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Jan 8 05:48:34 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 07:48:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting a car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <32D2962B5ABA4B6C9FE7BB2284E6BCBD@DCH6RFC1> I agree: I found a guy who let me go to his shop every weekend and I have done moist of the grunt work. But he is going to paint it. I think you'd always feel bad about a substandard paint job. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 6:22 PM To: tr3a at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Painting a car I am with Darrell on this one. You are concerned about all the right things except you left out SILICONE! I never found the source (even changed compressors) but the guy who eventually painted the remaining car for me identified it as the problem. IMHO if you are satisfied with orange peel, sags, etc but a relatively clean looking car, then paint it yourself. My recommendation is to find someone who will spray it for you in the proper environment. Make a deal that you do all the prep work as well as the wet sanding and buffing. You will gain the personal satisfaction that you are looking for without the aggravation. I got mine sprayed for $1200 materials included and the paint was about $500. I have since found that it could have been done cheaper, but I was OK with that. BTW you are likely to have to sign a statement that you will not come back and bitch as the key to a great paint job is prep and you are going to be doing that. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215195222x1200993641/aol?redir=htt p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=82%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO82) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Jan 8 10:00:50 2009 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 12:00:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting a car In-Reply-To: <32D2962B5ABA4B6C9FE7BB2284E6BCBD@DCH6RFC1> References: <32D2962B5ABA4B6C9FE7BB2284E6BCBD@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <6fa72a770901080900l5e134f1dy655b4d41ba3061f8@mail.gmail.com> I painted my TR4 with good old acrylic enamel over 10 years ago. I did all the bodywork and spent a long time on prep. Since it was intended to be a driver - basically a 10 footer, I decided I'd paint it myself. It turned out really well and the paint looks good even today. - One thing I think I did right - I made a clear plastic tent in the garage around the car and lit the tent from outside the tent - bugs gravitated to the light vs the car - and am not sure if the bug problem was helped by painting at night. It was also summer in Virginia so the garage was over 90 degrees that night - sweat drops were a problem but the paint flowed very well - better than I expected... For the TR2 - I'm sure I'll do most of the body work but will leave the final prep and painting to the pros... chris From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Jan 8 10:08:52 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 12:08:52 EST Subject: [TR] Painting a car Message-ID: In a message dated 1/8/2009 9:02:16 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: I painted my TR4 with good old acrylic enamel over 10 years ago. I did all the bodywork and spent a long time on prep. Since it was intended to be a driver - basically a 10 footer, I decided I'd paint it myself. It turned out really well and the paint looks good even today. - One thing I think I did right - I made a clear plastic tent in the garage around the car and lit the tent from outside the tent - bugs gravitated to the light vs the car - and am not sure if the bug problem was helped by painting at night. It was also summer in Virginia so the garage was over 90 degrees that night - sweat drops were a problem but the paint flowed very well - better than I expected... For the TR2 - I'm sure I'll do most of the body work but will leave the final prep and painting to the pros... chris _______________________________________________ Here's my experience: 1. I totally prepped my TR3. I stripped it to bare steel and had red oxide primer on it. I did all body work. I paid a shop (15 years ago) $200 labor plus paint ($50) andit came out ok. 2. Our TR Club had a couple of guys years ago who prepped the car (removed all chrome) andpaid MAACO to paint it with enough paint that they could color sand and buff. 3. I wanted my Stag to be a real show car. I stripped all the paint, did the body work and began blocking it. I had an agreement with a shop to paint it for me for $1000 including color sand and buff (10 years ago). I asked that shop to "grade my paper" and inspect the car for me before painting. I drove the car up sebveal times and blocked it many more times, but they were always pointing out ripples to me. I finally paid them an extra $1000 to finish it up. Mike Moore Engineering Manager CL Moore & Associates, Inc. 17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill, California 95037 408-782-1272 fax 408-782-1372 **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002) From davgil at aol.com Thu Jan 8 16:02:53 2009 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:02:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] welding question Message-ID: <8CB3FFC5F0BE4FC-11B8-58C@WEBMAIL-DF03.sysops.aol.com> As a very inexperienced welder, I have a question to pose to the talent on the lists.? I am welding a fitting for a trailer jack to a plate that I purchased that will attached to the trailer.? I purchased a set of plates and hangers from Northern Tools.? The kit is actually to attach springs to a trailer, but the plate and U-bolts fit my needs perfectly.? The plate is listed as zinc on the package, but has more of a cadmium appearance to it.? It is very smooth.? Do I need to grind this coating (which is clearly not hot dipped zinc) off of the plate before welding, or simply have at it and don't worry about the coating.? I anticipate repainting the entire assembly with an epoxy paint after welding.? I will be using a stick welder.? Thanks for the advice. David Gill 1976 TR6 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Jan 8 17:06:35 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 19:06:35 EST Subject: [TR] welding question Message-ID: In a message dated 1/8/2009 3:04:49 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, davgil at aol.com writes: Do I need to grind this coating (which is clearly not hot dipped zinc) off of the plate before welding, or simply have at it and don't worry about the coating.? David, not knowing what it is or the weldability is one consideration. Another is your health: If you grind the finish off where you're going to weld, and far enough back that its not affected by the heat, you'll stay healthier and not have to worry about weldability! Mike Moore **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002) From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 8 17:10:48 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 17:10:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] welding question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I second that. Some coatings give off noxious gases when you attempt to weld them. It is likely that you can burn through the coating and produce a good weld but breathing the fumes might be more serious than removing the coating. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MMoore8425 at aol.com Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 17:07 To: Davgil at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] welding question In a message dated 1/8/2009 3:04:49 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, davgil at aol.com writes: Do I need to grind this coating (which is clearly not hot dipped zinc) off of the plate before welding, or simply have at it and don't worry about the coating.? David, not knowing what it is or the weldability is one consideration. Another is your health: If you grind the finish off where you're going to weld, and far enough back that its not affected by the heat, you'll stay healthier and not have to worry about weldability! Mike Moore **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3a at comcast.net Thu Jan 8 17:35:29 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 19:35:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting a car In-Reply-To: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> References: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49669BD1.1030104@comcast.net> Thanks for all the replies! A lot of good info, warnings and suggestions here. Sort of what I was afraid of though. Looks like the vote is about 50-50, but even the "go for it" votes have caveats. I have a while before it matters, but I was just thinking ahead and thought I'd see if there was a prevailing opinion. Even if I do decide to attempt to shoot it myself, I'm still wondering about HVLP turbines vs an HVLP gun and a standard compressor (which I already have...2-stage, 60 gal). I'm leaning toward the compressor , if for no other reason than it's been very hard to find much enthusiasm for the turbines in my searches on the web. We shall see. From gtwincams at gmail.com Thu Jan 8 17:39:12 2009 From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 16:39:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] welding question In-Reply-To: <8CB3FFC5F0BE4FC-11B8-58C@WEBMAIL-DF03.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB3FFC5F0BE4FC-11B8-58C@WEBMAIL-DF03.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <49669CB0.2050104@gmail.com> Hi David, New list member here. I do TIG, MIG, gas welding, brazing and soldering.Previous comments about grinding the coating to prevent breathing toxic fumes are right on target. Of particular concern is galvanizing and cadmium plating, but zinc and other coatings are a hazard as well. Another issue is that although the coating is electrically conductive, and you could therefore weld to/through it (particularly with stick on high amperage), you will get compromised weld integrity from contamination as the coating blends with the weld. I suggest you follow the other suggestions and grind coating off first, then weld. If you want the cleanest weld, use a fresh flap disk to avoid contaminating with other metals/materials, then chemically clean the surfaces you'll be welding to, as well as the part. Test your welder settings on a similar-thickness piece of steel (called a voucher), and when ready, tack the work piece into position before welding. Take your time, and it will be fun. Cheers, Greg Tatarian 1974 TR6 and God Forbid - 1971 Lotus Elan, 1974 Alfa GTV davgil at aol.com wrote: > As a very inexperienced welder, I have a question to pose to the talent on the lists.? I am welding a fitting for a trailer jack to a plate that I purchased that will attached to the trailer.? I purchased a set of plates and hangers from Northern Tools.? The kit is actually to attach springs to a trailer, but the plate and U-bolts fit my needs perfectly.? The plate is listed as zinc on the package, but has more of a cadmium appearance to it.? It is very smooth.? Do I need to grind this coating (which is clearly not hot dipped zinc) off of the plate before welding, or simply have at it and don't worry about the coating.? I anticipate repainting the entire assembly with an epoxy paint after welding.? I will be using a stick welder.? Thanks for the advice. > David Gill > 1976 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as gtwincams at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 8 19:06:44 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 21:06:44 EST Subject: [TR] welding question Message-ID: In a message dated 1/8/2009 7:39:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, gtwincams at gmail.com writes: Of particular concern is galvanizing and cadmium plating, but zinc and other coatings are a hazard as well. Isn't galvanizing the same as zinc coating invented by some guy named Galvan? Or was I not paying attention in school. See post of six months ago about real cute girl next to me. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From tr3abobm77 at verizon.net Thu Jan 8 19:08:38 2009 From: tr3abobm77 at verizon.net (BobTr3A) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 21:08:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radiator recore, crank hole etc. Message-ID: A few months ago when I thought I had a radiator leak I pulled the front apron off to remove the radiator and fix it. After I got everything apart I found out the leak was actually a pinhole in my top radiator hose that was only 30 years old. Imagine that. Anyway, upon reassembling everything, I noticed how much of the radiator is actually below the apron shelf and thus shrouded by the apron itself and so deprived of airflow through the grill. I was wondering if any benefit could be had by cutting/bending the shelf down to allow more airflow to the lower part of the radiator? Has anyone ever considered this? Bob Maassel Fort Wayne, IN 59 TR3A TS39869L now plus O tr3abobm77 at verizon.net From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 8 19:22:22 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 21:22:22 EST Subject: [TR] Radiator recore, crank hole etc. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/8/2009 9:09:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3abobm77 at verizon.net writes: I was wondering if any benefit could be had by cutting/bending the shelf down to allow more airflow to the lower part of the radiator? Has anyone ever considered this? Yes I have. Then I noticed that the mechanical fan occupies that part of the radiator that is below the grill opening. I don't think any cooling advantage can be gained by doing as you describe as the overheating issues (if you have one) is at idle or at slow speed in which the fan is doing all the work (pulling air) and it is not really affected by air flow through the grill. If you have overheating issues at speed you have other problems. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From tr3a at comcast.net Thu Jan 8 19:24:49 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 21:24:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radiator recore, crank hole etc. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4966B571.40208@comcast.net> Only 30 years old and it already has a leak?! Do you still have the receipt? :) BobTr3A wrote: A few months ago when I thought I had a radiator leak I pulled the front apron off to remove the radiator and fix it. After I got everything apart I found out the leak was actually a pinhole in my top radiator hose that was only 30 years old. Imagine that. Anyway, upon reassembling everything, I noticed how much of the radiator is actually below the apron shelf and thus shrouded by the apron itself and so deprived of airflow through the grill. I was wondering if any benefit could be had by cutting/bending the shelf down to allow more airflow to the lower part of the radiator? Has anyone ever considered this? Bob Maassel Fort Wayne, IN 59 TR3A TS39869L now plus O tr3abobm77 at verizon.net From gtwincams at gmail.com Thu Jan 8 18:35:27 2009 From: gtwincams at gmail.com (gtwincams at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 01:35:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] welding question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Luigi Galvani. Galvanization includes several processes, but I was thinking of hot galvanizing as opposed to zinc electroplating when I answered the welding safety question. Cheers, Greg Tatarian Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: DLylis at aol.com Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 21:06:44 To: ; ; Subject: Re: [TR] welding question In a message dated 1/8/2009 7:39:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, gtwincams at gmail.com writes: Of particular concern is galvanizing and cadmium plating, but zinc and other coatings are a hazard as well. Isn't galvanizing the same as zinc coating invented by some guy named Galvan? Or was I not paying attention in school. See post of six months ago about real cute girl next to me. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jan 8 20:11:41 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 20:11:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator recore, crank hole etc. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3EB3443A-32E6-4243-BE37-4338344A78A5@cox.net> I listened to Geo Hahn, a fellow Arizonian, and made a small air dam to push a little extra air into the bottom of the radiator. You can see how I applied George's idea at http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/Air-Dam.html John -------------------- In a message dated 1/8/2009 9:09:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3abobm77 at verizon.net writes: I was wondering if any benefit could be had by cutting/bending the shelf down to allow more airflow to the lower part of the radiator? Has anyone ever considered this? -------------------- John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Jan 8 20:21:48 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 20:21:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] welding question In-Reply-To: <20090109023542.9EBC81878E4@autox.team.net> References: <20090109023542.9EBC81878E4@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901081921n1294113avd73cecfbdcb7bb35@mail.gmail.com> Didn't have a famous recipe for frog legs? http://www.theiet.org/about/libarc/archives/featured/galvani.cfm On Thu, Jan 8, 2009 at 6:35 PM, wrote: > Luigi Galvani... From gtwincams at gmail.com Thu Jan 8 19:39:23 2009 From: gtwincams at gmail.com (gtwincams at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 02:39:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] welding question In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901081921n1294113avd73cecfbdcb7bb35@mail.gmail.com> References: <20090109023542.9EBC81878E4@autox.team.net><7bb181af0901081921n1294113avd73cecfbdcb7bb35@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Hah! Yes - Luigi conducted biological experiments with frogs legs and discovered the presence of electrical currents in the body. As I recall Volta invented the battery, and Luigi's son or nephew carried on Luigi's work. Galvanizing metals was not Luigi's work. So, back to welding now? On that subject, have any of you tried using a stitch welder? Greg Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: "Geo Hahn" Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 20:21:48 To: Subject: Re: [TR] welding question Didn't have a famous recipe for frog legs? http://www.theiet.org/about/libarc/archives/featured/galvani.cfm On Thu, Jan 8, 2009 at 6:35 PM, wrote: > Luigi Galvani... _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as gtwincams at gmail.com http://www.team.net/archive From diggle at clear.net.nz Thu Jan 8 22:04:24 2009 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Diggle) Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2009 18:04:24 +1300 Subject: [TR] Painting a car Message-ID: I painted my TR4 because it needed tidying up and I didn't have the money to have someone do a down to metal job so I decided to respray it after repairing the defects. I was going to get someone to spray it after I did the bodywork but the cost was going to be over NZ$3000 or US$1740. I did the bodywork and purchased the paint for about NZ$900. I chose a 2 pack non-isocyanate truck paint. The 2 pack car paints are expensive and highly toxic, the truck paint is cheaper and less toxic, will last as long and is as glossy. I painted one fender or door at a time in a very small garage. Once in a while it would be two parts of the body at a time. I could only paint part of one side because the car was hard up against one wall to give me room to move. I puts lots of coats on. The best advice I can give is to practise lots and to buy 2x the paint you need so that you can sand all the runs and orange peel out and then respay the areas that have been sanded down to the undercoat. Would I do it again, yes with a fresh air spray mask to protect my eyes and lungs. Jim and the 1962 TR4 whose fuel pump does not leek. From cfisher at borgwarner.com Fri Jan 9 07:42:04 2009 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 09:42:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting a car In-Reply-To: <49669BD1.1030104@comcast.net> References: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> <49669BD1.1030104@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD019B5C6A@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> " Even if I do decide to attempt to shoot it myself, I'm still wondering about HVLP turbines vs an HVLP gun and a standard compressor (which I already have...2-stage, 60 gal)." I painted my car with one of the cheap self contained turbine HVLP guns from Harbor freight. I used acrylic urethane and wet sanded the runs till they disappeared. Lots of people who see it ask what shop painted it because it looks so nice. Pictures here: www.CurtFisherRacing.com "Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" Steve McQueen from Le Mans From tritongreen at ceva.net Fri Jan 9 08:50:18 2009 From: tritongreen at ceva.net (Gary Lied) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 10:50:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting a car References: <49652E06.1000702@comcast.net> Message-ID: The first LBC I painted I used an Campbell Hausfield HVLP turbine I purchased from Northern Tool and used Nason urethane paint. I painted the car in my garage and had no more problems than a friend who had a pro paint his car in his garage with a pro HVLP gun and compressor. After wet sanding and buffing, I too was often asked where I had the car painted. Since then I have purchased a quality HVLP gun and used base coat/top coat finishes and acrylic enamel with good results. The base coat/top coat required some sanding/polishing, but the local body shops sand and polish after painting too. I still use the turbine but primarily on farm equipment that I can't get into the shop. There is a real satisfaction in doing it yourself. One caution, make sure your primers and top coats are compatible. If not, a beautiful paint job will turn to crap after the paints cure. Gary Lied 74 TR6, 78 & 80 TR7 From tr3abobm77 at verizon.net Fri Jan 9 14:47:17 2009 From: tr3abobm77 at verizon.net (BobTr3A) Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2009 16:47:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radiator recore, crank hole etc. References: Message-ID: > I was wondering > if any benefit could be had by cutting/bending the shelf down to allow > more > airflow to the lower part of the radiator? Has anyone ever considered > this? > Yes I have. Then I noticed that the mechanical fan occupies that part of > the radiator that is below the grill opening. I don't think any cooling > advantage can be gained by doing as you describe as the overheating > issues (if you > have one) is at idle or at slow speed in which the fan is doing all the > work > (pulling air) and it is not really affected by air flow through the > grill. > If you have overheating issues at speed you have other problems. > David Lylis > I have an electric pusher fan and no crank fan. My electric is as wide as the radiator but overlaps the top tank an inch or so as it sits almost on the apron shelf in front of the radiator. If I lowered the shelf to unshroud the lower part of the radiator the fan could also sit lower. I didn't have and overheating problem before and don't have one now but I like to tinker. Bob Maassel Fort Wayne, IN 59 TR3A TS39869L now plus O tr3abobm77 at verizon.net From jimt at ieee.org Fri Jan 9 19:08:55 2009 From: jimt at ieee.org (Jim Thompson) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 20:08:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Painting Message-ID: <811ba59b0901091808o65f4b8c8gd9dd8d25b5f21cf0@mail.gmail.com> There is an interesting website on a little different approach to painting. Minimum money outlay but a lot of work. http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html -- Jim Thompson 80 TR7 73 Stag 817-337-0562 jimt at ieee.org From nogera at worldnet.att.net Fri Jan 9 20:16:01 2009 From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogoueira) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 21:16:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Pump Kits Message-ID: <8ABBE7A0FAF946ABA7BB043DC4C4255D@CARROOM> Somewhere in the achieves I read where someone rebuilt a fuel pump using one of BV or Moss kits supplied buy the mail order places. They then had a problem with it leaking and upon disassembly found the diaphragm was dissolving because of the ethanol in gasoline. He warned of to stay away from the kits with a Red diaphragm from the aftermarket suppliers. Well in my parts bin I have an original BL rebuilt kit (NOS). It has been in the original box and the kit is sealed within the box in a plastic bag. Problem is the diaphragm is red in color. Anyone know if the original rubber parts will stand up to ethanol? Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 9 21:42:22 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 20:42:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fuel Pump Kits In-Reply-To: <8ABBE7A0FAF946ABA7BB043DC4C4255D@CARROOM> Message-ID: <20090110044222.FTLM2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Anyone know if the > original rubber parts will stand up to ethanol? I know it wouldn't stand up to MTBE; and I would guess that applies to ethanol as well. Should be easy enough to test, put some fresh gasoline in a Mason jar and drop the diaphragm in. Screw the lid on and let it sit for a month. If it's not compatible, you should be able to see the damage and/or color leaching into the fuel. Randall From jeremiah at curryclan.net Sat Jan 10 00:53:14 2009 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 00:53:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question Message-ID: So this is probably a dumb question, but bear with me. I have a 57 TR3 with steel wheels and Michelin radials. I plan on replacing the radials. Do I need a tube in there, or with the new tires seal on the wheels? Also where is a good place to get tires. Tirerack didn't have the correct size. Thanks Jeremiah From jeremiah at curryclan.net Sat Jan 10 00:53:49 2009 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 00:53:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel filter leak Message-ID: <993912621E6141D985ACB03F3FDC4C18@media> Is there some trick to getting the glass fuel filter not to leak? I have it cranked down really hard and yet, even with the fuel TAP closed it is dripping gas. I have the screen stuck to the metal part, then the rubber gasket, then the glass bowl. Is that the correct order? Thanks, Jeremiah From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 10 06:15:54 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 08:15:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200901100815.54682.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 10 January 2009 02:53:14 Jeremiah Curry wrote: > So this is probably a dumb question, but bear with me. I have a 57 TR3 > with steel wheels and Michelin radials. I plan on replacing the radials. > Do I need a tube in there, or with the new tires seal on the wheels? Also > where is a good place to get tires. Tirerack didn't have the correct size. > > > > Thanks > > Jeremiah Jeremiah, No you don't. All you will need is to install a tubless plug. I have the std. steel wheels on my 3 and have never required a tube. The rims are made for tubless tires. If you plan to change the tires yourself, you will experience that fact when you try to "break" the beads! Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 10 06:36:46 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 08:36:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] chrome Message-ID: <200901100836.46894.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hi, I picked up my rear bumper at the chrome shop yesterday and I must say they did a good job. The center piece had 2 small dings on either side about 1" from the mounting points and they are now gone. I took a magnifying glass out to see if I could see any sign of the dents but could not. I have no idea how they did this but I am glad they did. And the price of the dent removal was included in the overall price. The chrome looks real nice, smooth and the inside, which was all rust, is now chrome as well. After the front bumper came out so nice, I decided to to the rear as well since it had lots of spider-ing. So now my bumpers are done but they wont be mounted for at least 2 years! After inspection, I covered them inside and out with a coat of Cullinite wax. They are now packed away with all the other parts in the cellar. Too cold to work in the garage today. Currently 0. Most likely will work on the windshield frame. Bob From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sat Jan 10 06:56:49 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 07:56:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Painting In-Reply-To: <811ba59b0901091808o65f4b8c8gd9dd8d25b5f21cf0@mail.gmail.com> References: <811ba59b0901091808o65f4b8c8gd9dd8d25b5f21cf0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: One of the members of another forum painted his TR like this. When he started to put it back togeather the paint came off in big sheets. I would do a part of two and then check them very carefully! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!> Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 20:08:55 -0600> From: jimt at ieee.org> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] Painting> > There is an interesting website on a little different approach to painting.> Minimum money outlay but a lot of work.> > http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dolla rpaint.html> > -- > Jim Thompson> 80 TR7> 73 Stag> 817-337-0562> jimt at ieee.org> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From twakeman at razzolink.com Sat Jan 10 07:58:29 2009 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 06:58:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel filter leak In-Reply-To: <993912621E6141D985ACB03F3FDC4C18@media> References: <993912621E6141D985ACB03F3FDC4C18@media> Message-ID: <4968B795.4040500@razzolink.com> Jeremiah Curry wrote: > I have the screen stuck to the metal part, then the rubber gasket, then the > glass bowl. Is that the correct order? > > . Metal top, screen, rubber gasket then glass bowl. The gastket always goes next to the glass bowl. Also, the rubber gasket hardens fairly quickly and when you remove it then try to replace it the seal will never seal. If the seal has been installed & in fuel longer than a couple weeks, always use a new rubber seal. New replacement rubber seals are an essential part of my TR3A's on board spares kit. Teriann Who is still trying to get rid of a TR3 hard top & overdrive gearbox with overdrive missing. From tr6 at pobox.com Sat Jan 10 09:03:30 2009 From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 10:03:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4968C6D2.4030307@pobox.com> Ok, caveat up front. This is an answer from a TR6 guy. It may not apply. That said, try Coker tire. They stock stuff for tons of old cars. When my redlines were on back order from TRF (and I needed them NOW to move the car 100 miles) I called Coker. The guy on the phone said "Oh yeah, TRF gets theirs from us." Anyway, they were cheaper and shipped the tires the same day. http://www.cokertire.com/ Jeremiah Curry wrote: > So this is probably a dumb question, but bear with me. I have a 57 TR3 with > steel wheels and Michelin radials. I plan on replacing the radials. Do I > need a tube in there, or with the new tires seal on the wheels? Also where > is a good place to get tires. Tirerack didn't have the correct size. > > > > Thanks > > Jeremiah -- http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com -- Yes, you think you're alright. You're mighty lonely every night. Well you need a friend-- Someone on whom you can always depend. Geddy Lee & Alex Lifeson "Take A Friend", RUSH (1973) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 10 10:06:10 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 09:06:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] chrome In-Reply-To: <200901100836.46894.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20090110170610.SZHV73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I picked up my rear bumper at the chrome shop yesterday Mind sharing which chrome shop that was? I doubt I'll use them (Tijuana is much closer to me), but others might. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 10 10:16:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 09:16:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel filter leak In-Reply-To: <993912621E6141D985ACB03F3FDC4C18@media> Message-ID: <20090110171614.MTBN2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I have the screen stuck to the metal part, then the rubber > gasket, then the glass bowl. Is that the correct order? Yes, but there should be a lip that the screen fits inside. The rubber gasket should be between the flat lip and the bowl. As TeriAnn says, the gasket needs to be replaced every few years; particularly if you use the stock cork. I cut a gasket from thick Neoprene sheet many years ago that lasted much better for me; and the rebuild kit I bought recently from TRF had Neoprene (or something similar). Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 10 10:29:31 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 09:29:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090110172931.TLCU73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > So this is probably a dumb question, but bear with me. I > have a 57 TR3 with steel wheels and Michelin radials. I plan > on replacing the radials. Do I need a tube in there, or with > the new tires seal on the wheels? Tubeless tires work just fine on the stock steel wheels. I forget the required stem size offhand (maybe 1/2"), but it's a standard size, any tire shop should have them. > Also where is a good place > to get tires. TireRack didn't have the correct size. I found a seller on eBay offering the Kumho PowerStar 768 in size 165-15 tires that TireRack used to carry, at a reasonable price. Also, one of our local club members just reported finding Vredestein Sprint+ tires in 165-15 at a local tire store (Performance Plus in Long Beach, CA). $59/tire; he didn't mention whether that included mounting and balancing. And Discount Tire has 165-15 listed on their website. Any of these should work fine on the ground, but of course will be a VERY snug fit in the spare tire well on a pre-60K car. After years of having to keep a rope tied around the spare so I could get it out, I finally switched to using a "compact spare" type tire, in size T125/90-15. It mounts on a standard TR3 steel wheel, and leaves lots of extra room in the spare tire compartment. I had to stuff my emergency blanket in there to keep it from sliding around. Of course, it's only for short-term use at low speeds ... but I covered probably 80 miles at 70+mph on mine and had no problems. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 10 11:02:25 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 13:02:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] chrome In-Reply-To: <20090110170610.SZHV73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090110170610.SZHV73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <200901101302.25924.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 10 January 2009 12:06:10 Randall wrote: > > I picked up my rear bumper at the chrome shop yesterday > > Mind sharing which chrome shop that was? > > I doubt I'll use them (Tijuana is much closer to me), but others might. > > Randall Randall, The shop is in Syracuse NY. Sandy's Website = http://www.sandysbumpermart.com/ Kind of out of the way from California. But I am sure a bit safer than Tijuana. Bob From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 10 14:34:59 2009 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 13:34:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel filter leak Message-ID: <312689.61174.qm@web80404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > I have the screen stuck to the metal part, then the rubber > gasket, then the glass bowl. Is that the correct order? Yes, but there should be a lip that the screen fits inside. The rubber gasket should be between the flat lip and the bowl. As TeriAnn says, the gasket needs to be replaced every few years; particularly if you use the stock cork. I cut a gasket from thick Neoprene sheet many years ago that lasted much better for me; and the rebuild kit I bought recently from TRF had Neoprene (or something similar). Randall NAPA sells a neoprene gasket for the TR2>4A fuel pump glass sediment bowl which seems to last and seal. It's part no: BK 730-9510, gasket - fuel bowl strainer. I'll never use a stock cork gasket here again. brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 Wheaton Illinois From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 10 16:32:05 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 18:32:05 EST Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question Message-ID: In a message dated 1/10/2009 12:30:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Vredestein Sprint+ tires in 165-15 at a local tire store (Performance Plus in Long Beach, CA). $59/tire; he didn't mention whether that included mounting and balancing Wow. I would run right over and buy these at that price. From my experience going back to my 61 VW, Vredestein is a good tire. I bought one in an emergency situation from Tires Unlimited at $118 per tire a few years back. Long story longer I blew a tire with wire wheels going to Jekyl Island for VTR Regionals. My wife was flying in to meet me as she had business in Chicago and I knew I would never lose the dumb shit tag if we got a flat going home with no spare, as she was riding with me. Took the tire and wheel to an 'expert' wire wheel shop in the local town. 75 miles into the trip going home the tire went flat. Rest of the 425 mile trip with no spare! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From patton at suscom-maine.net Sat Jan 10 18:27:23 2009 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 20:27:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting In-Reply-To: References: <811ba59b0901091808o65f4b8c8gd9dd8d25b5f21cf0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <49694AFB.4040101@suscom-maine.net> Back in 2001 I painted my TR6 at home in my garage. It actually came out quite nice but the fumes just about killed me. If you plan to do your own painting think fresh air and a mask with new charcoal filters! Pictures and the story are on my site: http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/paint.htm Rick Patton pattonmachine.com 75TR6sci 74 TVR2500M Rich White wrote: > One of the members of another forum painted his TR like this. > When he started to put it back togeather the paint came off in big sheets. > snip From tr3a at comcast.net Sat Jan 10 19:13:00 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 21:13:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting In-Reply-To: <49694AFB.4040101@suscom-maine.net> References: <811ba59b0901091808o65f4b8c8gd9dd8d25b5f21cf0@mail.gmail.com> <49694AFB.4040101@suscom-maine.net> Message-ID: <496955AC.7040006@comcast.net> Thanks, guys! Rich, painting a car with a roller is an entertaining concept, but by the time I'm ready to paint, I will have put FAR too much effort into this to want to paint it with Rustoleum! Rick, I have resisted the idea of spending the cash on a supplied air respirator. I figured, hey, it's just one car...and a small one at that! How bad can it BE?! Having just read your saga, if I decide to do this thing myself, I guess I'll bite the bullet. Rick Patton wrote: Back in 2001 I painted my TR6 at home in my garage. It actually came out quite nice but the fumes just about killed me. If you plan to do your own painting think fresh air and a mask with new charcoal filters! Pictures and the story are on my site: http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/paint.htm Rick Patton pattonmachine.com 75TR6sci 74 TVR2500M Rich White wrote: One of the members of another forum painted his TR like this. When he started to put it back togeather the paint came off in big sheets. From jaworski at wideopenwest.com Sat Jan 10 20:48:04 2009 From: jaworski at wideopenwest.com (Adrian Jaworski) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 21:48:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <200901110348.n0B3m9O3006785@pop-8.dnv.wideopenwest.com> >From: "Jeremiah Curry" >Also where is a good place to get tires. Tirerack didn't have the correct size. > ------------------ Jeremiah, I ordered a set of 165/80R-15 Kumho Power Star 758's from the Tire Rack for my 59 TR3a on 12/20/08 and they were delivered last Tuesday. At one point they were backordered forever but they must have gotten a shipment. $45.00 each. Regards, Adrian 1959 TR3a From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 10 22:38:31 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 00:38:31 EST Subject: [TR] Painting Message-ID: Just know that if you are doing it yourself the health risk is Isocyanate. Google it, it may change your mind. I called Rustoleum Product Support some months ago after seeing this $50 paint job article, and they say it is not a good coating for this application. Others may argue differently but the manufacturer does not recommend it. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From jmitch at snet.net Sun Jan 11 06:27:53 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 08:27:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Crimping Bullet connectors Message-ID: <4969F3D9.5080204@snet.net> Just a quick wiring question. I have the lucar bullet type crimping tool from British Wiring. Do I crimp back by where the wire enters the connector, or just behind the ball on the end? The first couple I've tried, I crimped back by the wire, and it crushed the connector completely. Is it worth soldering after crimping? I'm installing a daytime running light controller because I tend to leave the lights on when driving with them on during the day. It activates the high beams at 75% power whenever the ignition is on and I'm wondering if my Lucas 18ACR will keep up. Thanks fan any help. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From lbc.resto at verizon.net Sun Jan 11 07:00:08 2009 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 09:00:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting In-Reply-To: References: <811ba59b0901091808o65f4b8c8gd9dd8d25b5f21cf0@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <931B2E01086E4F3A97B33D69E267CBA8@RAS> I have also done it that way (also shown on the BCF forum) and the only minor problem I had was because I was too aggressive in my wet sanding. Just another perspective. No way were the $$$$ available for me to get my ratty barn find up to an acceptable driver level look. 2 1/2 years on and still OK. -- Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 8:57 AM To: TR owners List Subject: Re: [TR] Painting One of the members of another forum painted his TR like this. When he started to put it back togeather the paint came off in big sheets. I would do a part of two and then check them very carefully! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!> Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 20:08:55 -0600> From: jimt at ieee.org> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] Painting> > There is an interesting website on a little different approach to painting.> Minimum money outlay but a lot of work.> > http://www.rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50doll a rpaint.html> > -- > Jim Thompson> 80 TR7> 73 Stag> 817-337-0562> jimt at ieee.org> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as lbc.resto at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 11 08:20:48 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 10:20:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors In-Reply-To: <4969F3D9.5080204@snet.net> References: <4969F3D9.5080204@snet.net> Message-ID: <4289C9BDBE8143A19CBAE7AA4526C640@BOBSNEWPC> John, Here's a pretty good picture of a bullet crimped with the tool http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy You do have use the special bullets that can be crimped and also match up with the wire size you're using. I also soldered them because it was so easy to heat the bullet, touch the solder to end of the bullet and watch it sucked into the bullet. But I was working with Dan's wire which can take a mini butane torch without melting. I stink with a soldering iron! Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:28 AM To: 6-Pack; BobDanielson; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors Just a quick wiring question. I have the lucar bullet type crimping tool from British Wiring. Do I crimp back by where the wire enters the connector, or just behind the ball on the end? The first couple I've tried, I crimped back by the wire, and it crushed the connector completely. Is it worth soldering after crimping? I'm installing a daytime running light controller because I tend to leave the lights on when driving with them on during the day. It activates the high beams at 75% power whenever the ignition is on and I'm wondering if my Lucas 18ACR will keep up. Thanks fan any help. John Mitchell 76 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jan 11 09:19:11 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 16:19:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR Controversy In-Reply-To: <49694AFB.4040101@suscom-maine.net> Message-ID: <537442264.1119851231690751013.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I hate to drag this up.B I fear fueling a heated debate.B Yet I feel strongly. Yes yes...and nay to all nay-sayers...having a garage in winter IS better than lying in the snow or on the dirt. Seriously, for the first time in my life, I do have a garage, 24 x 40.B B The TR3A sits inside, on 6 x 6 blocks with the steering dismantled for installation of the steering pin modification.B And this is happening in the middle of January, will actually be completed today, when the best I could do before was look through the window at a huddled, bundled bulk outside that was the Triumph hidden in the snow, while plotting all the work that would have to wait until spring when I would rather be driving it.B Oh, and intriguingly, I had zero oil in the steering box.B Today, a balmy 23 degrees without wind to penetrate to the skin, the steering box got filled with fully synthetic 75-90.B Amazing.B The little things in life, eh???? Terry Smith New HampshireB From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 11 09:38:08 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 11:38:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR Controversy In-Reply-To: <537442264.1119851231690751013.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <49694AFB.4040101@suscom-maine.net> <537442264.1119851231690751013.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Terry, Sick as it sounds, I like the winter months because I can get all this car work done without sweat dripping down my face and into my eyes. I have my lined Carhart work pants, along with their thermal sweatshirt and vest and am quite comfortable working in 35+ degree weather. Once it gets below that, I fire up the 35K BTU kerosene bullet heater and I'm warm in the garage when it's 15-20 degrees outside. I can't hear anything and may go deaf but it's warm :-) Enjoy your garage! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 11:19 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR Controversy I hate to drag this up.B I fear fueling a heated debate.B Yet I feel strongly. Yes yes...and nay to all nay-sayers...having a garage in winter IS better than lying in the snow or on the dirt. Seriously, for the first time in my life, I do have a garage, 24 x 40.B B The TR3A sits inside, on 6 x 6 blocks with the steering dismantled for installation of the steering pin modification. And this is happening in the middle of January, will actually be completed today, when the best I could do before was look through the window at a huddled, bundled bulk outside that was the Triumph hidden in the snow, while plotting all the work that would have to wait until spring when I would rather be driving it.Oh, and intriguingly, I had zero oil in the steering box.B Today, a balmy 23 degrees without wind to penetrate to the skin, the steering box got filled with fully synthetic 75-90. Amazing. The little things in life, eh???? From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jan 11 09:58:33 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 11:58:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR Controversy In-Reply-To: <537442264.1119851231690751013.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <537442264.1119851231690751013.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <200901111158.34006.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 11 January 2009 11:19:11 terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > I hate to drag this up.B I fear fueling a heated debate.B Yet I feel > strongly. > > > > Yes yes...and nay to all nay-sayers...having a garage in winter IS better > than lying in the snow or on the dirt. > > > > Seriously, for the first time in my life, I do have a garage, 24 x 40.B B > The TR3A sits inside, on 6 x 6 blocks with the steering dismantled for > installation of the steering pin modification.B And this is happening in > the middle of January, will actually be completed today, when the best I > could do before was look through the window at a huddled, bundled bulk > outside that was the Triumph hidden in the snow, while plotting all the > work that would have to wait until spring when I would rather be driving > it.B > > > > Oh, and intriguingly, I had zero oil in the steering box.B Today, a balmy > 23 degrees without wind to penetrate to the skin, the steering box got > filled with fully synthetic 75-90.B > > > > Amazing.B The little things in life, eh???? > > > > Terry Smith > > New HampshireB Terry, Did you insulate your garage? If so, you might want to get a propane fired bullet heater. I insulated my garage this summer and went out and got a heater for 100$ at Lowes. It makes it a bit easier to work in the garage when the temperature goes below 40. But I put the brakes on if the outside temperature is < 25 and try to work on stuff that can be done in the cellar. Bob (Central NY with a current temperature at 19) From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jan 11 10:18:41 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 17:18:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR Controversy In-Reply-To: <200901111158.34006.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <463258824.1132451231694321333.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Dirtwork, cement, walls, windows and roof are up now.B Alas, siding, garage doors, insulation, electricity and sech other new-fangled gadgetry for this spring/summer. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 11:58:33 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] TR Controversy On Sunday 11 January 2009 11:19:11 terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > I hate to drag this up.B B I fear fueling a heated debate.B B Yet I feel > strongly. > > > > Yes yes...and nay to all nay-sayers...having a garage in winter IS better > than lying in the snow or on the dirt. > > > > Seriously, for the first time in my life, I do have a garage, 24 x 40.B B > The TR3A sits inside, on 6 x 6 blocks with the steering dismantled for > installation of the steering pin modification.B B And this is happening in > the middle of January, will actually be completed today, when the best I > could do before was look through the window at a huddled, bundled bulk > outside that was the Triumph hidden in the snow, while plotting all the > work that would have to wait until spring when I would rather be driving > it.B > > > > Oh, and intriguingly, I had zero oil in the steering box.B B Today, a balmy > 23 degrees without wind to penetrate to the skin, the steering box got > filled with fully synthetic 75-90.B > > > > Amazing.B B The little things in life, eh???? > > > > Terry Smith > > New HampshireB Terry, Did you insulate your garage? If so, you might want to get a propane fired bullet heater. I insulated my garage this summer and went out and got a heater for 100$ at Lowes. It makes it a bit easier to work in the garage when the temperature goes below 40. But I put the brakes on if the outside temperature is < 25 and try to work on stuff that can be done in the cellar. Bob (Central NY with a current temperature at 19) From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jan 11 10:20:45 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 17:20:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Steering Pin Conversion In-Reply-To: <200901111158.34006.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <461864647.1132891231694445478.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Since the tops of the new nylon steering pins are flat circles and not hex, I take it the only way to hold them still while ratchetng the nut down is with vise-grips?B Just checking before I bugger the tops up. Terry, New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 11 11:04:33 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 10:04:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] Steering Pin Conversion In-Reply-To: <461864647.1132891231694445478.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090111180433.YHGM21495.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Since the tops of the new nylon steering pins are flat > circles and not hex, I take it the only way to hold them > still while ratchetng the nut down is with vise-grips?B Just > checking before I bugger the tops up. I haven't tried the Delrin ones yet, but what I did for the brass/SS ones was to grind some flats on the pin head, so I could hold it with an open end wrench. Grabbing with vise grips is a bad idea, IMO, as you may create a burr that would dig into the bushing and damage it or create friction. Another route would be to start with an ordinary nut (rather than Nyloc). Then friction should hold the pin enough to torque down the nut and lock the taper. Then you can remove the standard nut and replace it with the Nyloc. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 11 11:13:36 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 10:13:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR Controversy In-Reply-To: <200901111158.34006.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20090111181336.YLOS21495.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Did you insulate your garage? > > If so, you might want to get a propane fired bullet heater. If not, you might want to consider something like this http://tinyurl.com/7rn2lo It 'shines' infrared heat onto whatever you point it at, which creates a small zone of comfort without having to heat the surrounding area. Works pretty good, IMO, as long as you are out of the wind. And it works much quicker than having to heat the entire area, which can save a lot of energy if you only work for a few hours at a time. It also makes it much more practical to only work for a few minutes (say after dinner on a work day). Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jan 11 11:28:36 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:28:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Steering Pin Conversion In-Reply-To: <539094855.1148681231698504643.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1318740601.1148781231698516921.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Yup.B Randall, Joe and everyone, thank you all for your help.B A combination of light taps with a ball pean hammer to seat the pins in the taper, plus the idea to use a regular nut to lock it down did the trick. Terry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 1:04:33 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Steering Pin Conversion > Since the tops of the new nylon steering pins are flat > circles and not hex, I take it the only way to hold them > still while ratchetng the nut down is with vise-grips?B B Just > checking before I bugger the tops up. I haven't tried the Delrin ones yet, but what I did for the brass/SS ones was to grind some flats on the pin head, so I could hold it with an open end wrench. B Grabbing with vise grips is a bad idea, IMO, as you may create a burr that would dig into the bushing and damage it or create friction. Another route would be to start with an ordinary nut (rather than Nyloc). Then friction should hold the pin enough to torque down the nut and lock the taper. B Then you can remove the standard nut and replace it with the Nyloc. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jan 11 11:30:25 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:30:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR Controversy In-Reply-To: <20090111181336.YLOS21495.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <1595155479.1149171231698625948.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> You guys are all amazing. This is perfect for me.B Thanks (yet again)! Terry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 1:13:36 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] TR Controversy > Did you insulate your garage? > > If so, you might want to get a propane fired bullet heater. If not, you might want to consider something like this http://tinyurl.com/7rn2lo It 'shines' infrared heat onto whatever you point it at, which creates a small zone of comfort without having to heat the surrounding area. B Works pretty good, IMO, as long as you are out of the wind. B And it works much quicker than having to heat the entire area, which can save a lot of energy if you only work for a few hours at a time. B It also makes it much more practical to only work for a few minutes (say after dinner on a work day). Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 11 14:23:08 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 13:23:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors In-Reply-To: <4289C9BDBE8143A19CBAE7AA4526C640@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <20090111212308.ORMD73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Here's a pretty good picture of a bullet crimped with the > tool http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy Bob, is that the tool that British Wire sells? Looks like it does a 2-point crimp, rather than hexagonal. I was under the impression that the 'proper' tool did a hexagonal crimp. Much more expensive, but also much better. Lacking a crimp tool, I just solder. And as you say, the original PVC insulation generally melts for a short distance ... lots of my bullets have a section of heat shrink to cover the melted area. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 11 14:32:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 13:32:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Crimping Bullet connectors In-Reply-To: <4969F3D9.5080204@snet.net> Message-ID: <20090111213239.ISXM2036.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Is it worth soldering after crimping? IMO yes, if you're looking for a joint to last another 30 years. In theory, just the crimp is better, but in practice a solder joint backed up by a crimp joint seems more likely to last. And I'm talking about crimps made by professionals, using a calibrated ratchet type crimper. > I'm > wondering if my Lucas 18ACR will keep up. Should be OK, if you drive mostly at speed. For primarily low speed, stop-n-go, you might want one of the various upgrades. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 11 16:26:02 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 18:26:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors In-Reply-To: <20090111212308.ORMD73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <4289C9BDBE8143A19CBAE7AA4526C640@BOBSNEWPC> <20090111212308.ORMD73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <2A6BC41D919749069507F2B4E70387DD@BOBSNEWPC> Randall, It is the British Wire tool and it does a 6-sided crimp..... ;-) ok.... It's a hexagon. I hear you on the heat shrink tubing. I use a lot of it too. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 4:23 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors > Here's a pretty good picture of a bullet crimped with the tool > http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy Bob, is that the tool that British Wire sells? Looks like it does a 2-point crimp, rather than hexagonal. I was under the impression that the 'proper' tool did a hexagonal crimp. Much more expensive, but also much better. Lacking a crimp tool, I just solder. And as you say, the original PVC insulation generally melts for a short distance ... lots of my bullets have a section of heat shrink to cover the melted area. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Jan 11 17:34:36 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 17:34:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel filter leak In-Reply-To: <993912621E6141D985ACB03F3FDC4C18@media> References: <993912621E6141D985ACB03F3FDC4C18@media> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901111634s35a0f1eanb7b362be49e3deb1@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Jan 10, 2009 at 12:53 AM, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > ... I have it cranked down really hard... And that may be the problem... if you really tighten that bale it can distort the fairly soft metal that comprises the top of the fuel filter. Once that metal takes on a bow shape no gasket is going to keep it from leaking. The good news is that I have straightened a bent one successfully with (IIRC) a ball peen hammer and a piece 2x4. Geo From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Jan 11 17:40:30 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 17:40:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: <200901110348.n0B3m9O3006785@pop-8.dnv.wideopenwest.com> References: <200901110348.n0B3m9O3006785@pop-8.dnv.wideopenwest.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901111640r66932e7dta0861f735950a3ab@mail.gmail.com> On Sat, Jan 10, 2009 at 8:48 PM, Adrian Jaworski wrote: > ------------------ > Jeremiah, I ordered a set of 165/80R-15 Kumho Power Star 758's from the > Tire > Rack for my 59 TR3a on 12/20/08 and they were delivered last Tuesday. That's good news -- I am pleased with the Kumhos I have on the TR4 and might finally get to have the same tires 2X in a row (every tire I buy for the TRs become NLA soon thereafter). Jeremiah might have been looking for 165x15 when he could not find them as that is the size we are used to getting these days -- but 165/80 are real close and work out fine. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 11 20:31:56 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 19:31:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901111640r66932e7dta0861f735950a3ab@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20090112033156.WMTO73.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Jeremiah might have been looking for 165x15 when he could not > find them Actually, TireRack has pulled them from the website. I first noticed that last week. The only 15" tires listed under the Kumho Power Star 758 are size 185/65-15. Which will actually work just fine; but are not recommended for the stock 4.5" rims, and of course haven't a prayer of fitting in the spare tire well. I tried to call TireRack and ask WTF, but they had closed for the day and I haven't tried again. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Jan 11 21:12:45 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 22:12:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Prices Message-ID: <6DCD4EAC933643EBA6479D1ADD9CB614@mikeslaptop> While looking at the "Daily Telegraph's" website (a British daily newspaper), I noticed an ad from Autotrader, so I thought I would see what Triumphs were listed with them in the UK. Take a look: http://tinyurl.com/85gq6b I thought the price for the rebuilt TR3 shell was interesting! The Heralds looked quite affordable, although the convertible seems to have a checkered past, to say the least! Michael Marr 1960 TR3A 2000 Jag XK8 Plainfield, IL From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 12 06:13:16 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 13:13:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR Controversy In-Reply-To: <200901111158.34006.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <537442264.1119851231690751013.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <200901111158.34006.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I live in sunny Ca. and my bullet heater gets used anytime the temp gets below 50 degrees in the garage. Of course I refuse to work on a car in anything but jeans and a t-shirt. Best regards, Tom > From: yellowtr at adelphia.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 11:58:33 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] TR Controversy > > On Sunday 11 January 2009 11:19:11 terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > > I hate to drag this up.B I fear fueling a heated debate.B Yet I feel > > strongly. > > > > > > > > Yes yes...and nay to all nay-sayers...having a garage in winter IS better > > than lying in the snow or on the dirt. > > > > > > > > Seriously, for the first time in my life, I do have a garage, 24 x 40.B B > > The TR3A sits inside, on 6 x 6 blocks with the steering dismantled for > > installation of the steering pin modification.B And this is happening in > > the middle of January, will actually be completed today, when the best I > > could do before was look through the window at a huddled, bundled bulk > > outside that was the Triumph hidden in the snow, while plotting all the > > work that would have to wait until spring when I would rather be driving > > it.B > > > > > > > > Oh, and intriguingly, I had zero oil in the steering box.B Today, a balmy > > 23 degrees without wind to penetrate to the skin, the steering box got > > filled with fully synthetic 75-90.B > > > > > > > > Amazing.B The little things in life, eh???? > > > > > > > > Terry Smith > > > > New HampshireB > Terry, > > Did you insulate your garage? > > If so, you might want to get a propane fired bullet heater. > > I insulated my garage this summer and went out and got a heater for 100$ at > Lowes. It makes it a bit easier to work in the garage when the temperature > goes below 40. > > But I put the brakes on if the outside temperature is < 25 and try to work on > stuff that can be done in the cellar. > > Bob (Central NY with a current temperature at 19) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_01200 9 From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Jan 12 08:39:24 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 10:39:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Prices In-Reply-To: <6DCD4EAC933643EBA6479D1ADD9CB614@mikeslaptop> References: <6DCD4EAC933643EBA6479D1ADD9CB614@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <8CB42E31487B7E6-B0C-6E9@WEBMAIL-DC12.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr While looking at the "Daily Telegraph's" website... I thought the price for the rebuilt TR3 shell was interesting! The Heralds looked quite affordable, although the convertible seems to have a checkered past, to say the least! ==AM== I agree, especially since it's not a convertible; rather, it's a saloon with the roof unbolted (and, apparently, long discarded). Genuine Herald convertibles are flexible enough, but saloons without their roofs are, uh, worse to say the least! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Jan 12 10:05:54 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 12:05:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph 1300/1500 FWD axles Message-ID: <380-22009111217554469@M2W015.mail2web.com> Listers Does anybody know of a source for the 1300/1500 FWD axle, specifically the outer portion with the CV joint? Possibly even a site with information etc. Ive not been able to locate much if any information on these items  and am considering a project that might utilize some. These were used in the Triumph front wheel drive sedans, and it is my understanding that they will bolt right in place of the outer axles on the GT6  Doing a search gave me little if any results  for these used or new, even on Ebay - I would have thought that these would have been quite common - at least at one time - Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Mon Jan 12 10:35:39 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 12:35:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?Triumph_1300/1500_FWD_axles?= Message-ID: <20090112173539.2318.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> Most older Triumph sedans are listed under the Rover umbrella in the UK ... have a look at as an example: http://www.atozcarparts.co.uk/catalog/ctlcvjoints/Make/ROVER%20GROUP/Model/TRIUMPH%20MODELS/Description/1.3.html ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > -------Original Message------- > From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net > Subject: [TR] Triumph 1300/1500 FWD axles > Sent: Jan 12 '09 12:05 > > Listers > Does anybody know of a source for the 1300/1500 FWD axle, specifically the > outer portion with the CV joint? Possibly even a site with information > etc. Ive not been able to locate much if any information on these items  > and am considering a project that might utilize some. These were used in > the Triumph front wheel drive sedans, and it is my understanding that they > will bolt right in place of the outer axles on the GT6  Doing a search > gave me little if any results  for these used or new, even on Ebay - I > would have thought that these would have been quite common - at least at > one time - > > Barry Schwartz > San Diego, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 12 11:17:49 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 10:17:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: <200901110348.n0B3m9O3006785@pop-8.dnv.wideopenwest.com> References: <200901110348.n0B3m9O3006785@pop-8.dnv.wideopenwest.com> Message-ID: <078801c974e2$144e5a80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Jeremiah, I ordered a set of 165/80R-15 Kumho Power Star 758's from the > Tire > Rack for my 59 TR3a on 12/20/08 and they were delivered last Tuesday. I just spoke with Vance at Tire Rack. He tells me that Kumho has actually discontinued the 165/80-15 size, which is why it's been removed from the Tire Rack web site. However, they do have a "few sets" left in a warehouse in Delaware, so if you want a set, better call now. You can reach Vance at 888-541-1777 ext 314. He also said that Tire Rack has no plans to offer the 165/80-15 size in the future. None of their current tire brands offers it, and I guess they won't be adding another brand just for this size. BTW, Vredestein's web site has a dealer locator function. Not sure how accurate or inclusive it is, but it did come up with the Performance Plus dealer that Norm found in Long Beach, CA. http://www.vredestein.com/Dealerlocator_Dealerinfo.asp?UserSessionID=73 Randall From johnsimmons at wvdhhr.org Mon Jan 12 12:02:46 2009 From: johnsimmons at wvdhhr.org (John Simmons) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 14:02:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 21 (New Email) Message-ID: Hello my new email is john.a.simmons at wv.gov. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Jan 12 13:00:26 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:00:26 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumph 1300/1500 FWD axles References: <20090112173539.2318.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> Message-ID: <2AC67D5C1B2C42BC9E9B3C861A2840A1@Bevan> Have a look at The Triumph Dolomite Club website - and parts suppliers at www.triumphdolomite.co.uk/specialists.html The Club is UK based but the 1300/1500 FWD model range is within its profile. Sure someone there could help you Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 5:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph 1300/1500 FWD axles > Most older Triumph sedans are listed under the Rover umbrella in the UK ... have a look at as an > example: > http://www.atozcarparts.co.uk/catalog/ctlcvjoints/Make/ROVER%20GROUP/Model/TRIUMPH%20MODELS/Description/1.3.html > > ************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************** > > >> -------Original Message------- >> From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net >> Subject: [TR] Triumph 1300/1500 FWD axles >> Sent: Jan 12 '09 12:05 >> >> Listers >> Does anybody know of a source for the 1300/1500 FWD axle, specifically the >> outer portion with the CV joint? Possibly even a site with information >> etc. Ive not been able to locate much if any information on these items  >> and am considering a project that might utilize some. These were used in >> the Triumph front wheel drive sedans, and it is my understanding that they >> will bolt right in place of the outer axles on the GT6  Doing a search >> gave me little if any results  for these used or new, even on Ebay - I >> would have thought that these would have been quite common - at least at >> one time - >> >> Barry Schwartz >> San Diego, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Jan 12 16:51:17 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 16:51:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: <078801c974e2$144e5a80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <200901110348.n0B3m9O3006785@pop-8.dnv.wideopenwest.com> <078801c974e2$144e5a80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901121551w3cbbc41bl318b118a65a18e2@mail.gmail.com> Arrrgh! Hard to believe as this is the tire used on the most popular car of the 20th century. What do VeeDub drivers use? Geo On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 11:17 AM, Randall wrote: > ...He also said that Tire Rack has no plans to offer the 165/80-15 size in > the > future. None of their current tire brands offers it, and I guess they > won't > be adding another brand just for this size. From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Jan 12 17:08:15 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 19:08:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question References: <200901110348.n0B3m9O3006785@pop-8.dnv.wideopenwest.com> <078801c974e2$144e5a80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <7bb181af0901121551w3cbbc41bl318b118a65a18e2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Try =Coker Tire=, they carry nothing but classic tires, reasonable on price. "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 6:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question > Arrrgh! > > Hard to believe as this is the tire used on the most popular car of the > 20th > century. What do VeeDub drivers use? > > Geo > > On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 11:17 AM, Randall wrote: > >> ...He also said that Tire Rack has no plans to offer the 165/80-15 size >> in >> the >> future. None of their current tire brands offers it, and I guess they >> won't >> be adding another brand just for this size. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Jan 12 17:20:20 2009 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 19:20:20 EST Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: Jeremiah, If the original steel wheels on your TR3 are not of the Safety type (and they probably are not) then you SHOULD use inner tubes in the tires, and they should be tubes designed for radial tires. It is possible to get along without them but make sure correct tire pressures are maintained. If pressures get low and you are cornering hard, the tire can come loose from the rim very suddenly, with nasty results. Safety rims have ridges to help keep air in and tires on. It's peace of mind knowing the air isn't gonna get out when cornering hard. George Haynes ************** New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 12 17:22:52 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 16:22:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] Dumb tire and tube question In-Reply-To: References: <200901110348.n0B3m9O3006785@pop-8.dnv.wideopenwest.com><078801c974e2$144e5a80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><7bb181af0901121551w3cbbc41bl318b118a65a18e2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <085701c97515$13591ce0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Try =Coker Tire=, they carry nothing but classic tires, reasonable on > price. Oddly enough, that's what Vance suggested as well But Coker wants $105/ea for the Vredestein Sprints (which are the cheapest 165-15 they sell), plus shipping of course. Not exactly what I would call "reasonable", for tires I can source locally for $59/each. Classic VW "Bugs" aren't all that common around here any more, even though they continued making them in Mexico until 2003. And most of the ones I see still running around have fitted wider wheels and tires. The "new" VW Beetles don't use the same size. Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jan 12 17:25:04 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 18:25:04 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: <833180723.47245801231806304643.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Jeremiah, I would second this opinion from George. When I replaced my old tires from the orignal owner with radials, I was advised by the tire shop (they do lots of referrals from local British shops) that it was necessary to keep the tubes. I did not get a special radial "tube" but I would advise you to go ahead and replace all four tubes with new ones. I opted to not do that and ended up with a flat, it leaked at the valve. Just one more opinion. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 7:20 PM, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com wrote: > Jeremiah, If the original steel wheels on your TR3 are not of the Safety type (and they probably are not) then you SHOULD use inner tubes in the tires, and they should be tubes designed for radial tires.B B It is possible to get along without them but make sure correct tire pressures are maintained.B B If pressures get low and you are cornering hard, the tire can come loose from the rim very suddenly, with nasty results.B B Safety rims have ridges to help keep air in and tires on.B B It's peace of mind knowing the air isn't gonna get out when cornering hard. George Haynes ************** New year...new news.B Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026 B ) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org B Triumphs at autox.team.net B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs B You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net B http://www.team.net/archive B From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Jan 12 17:47:21 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 17:47:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: <833180723.47245801231806304643.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> References: <833180723.47245801231806304643.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901121647x6b331059had432b67e57dbf0d@mail.gmail.com> Well I'll ask... is this one of those DOT5vDOT4 / Positive GrdvNegative Grd / BoxersvBrief issues? I have been running tubeless tires on TR3 and TR4 rims for a long time under all sorts of conditions. Never thought a tube was needed unless you have wire wheels. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 12 17:58:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 16:58:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <088301c9751a$17dd5330$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > If the original steel wheels on your TR3 are not of the Safety type (and > they > probably are not) then you SHOULD use inner tubes in the tires, and they > should be tubes designed for radial tires. Note that the tires should also be designed for use with tubes. Many reputable tire shops will refuse to install tubes in tires not so designated. The tubes generate extra heat, which can lead to tire failure in a tire designed only for tubeless service. And with all the lawsuits over tire failure flying around a few years back, I don't blame the shops for not wanting to take the risk. > It's peace of mind knowing the air isn't gonna get out when > cornering hard. OTOH, tubes are famous for causing "blow-outs", which was supposed to be one of the major advantages of tubeless tires. It's your choice, of course, but I would much rather take my chances with tubeless, even without the "safety" beads. The safety beads primarily come into play when the tire has already lost its air and you are still driving on the flat. Losing air in a corner with normal inflation (over 20 psi) is an urban myth IMO. And there is no good reason to ever run pressure that low on the street. (Off-roading is a different story of course; but I try to avoid going off-road in my TR.) At any rate, I've covered over 150,000 miles with tubeless tires on rims without safety beads; and never had a tire lose air in a hard corner. And I do frequently corner at the limits of adhesion (or just a bit beyond) Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Jan 12 18:31:25 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:31:25 EST Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2009 4:21:02 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com writes: Jeremiah, If the original steel wheels on your TR3 are not of the Safety type (and they probably are not) then you SHOULD use inner tubes in the tires, and they should be tubes designed for radial tires. It is possible to get along without them but make sure correct tire pressures are maintained. If pressures get low and you are cornering hard, the tire can come loose from the rim very suddenly, with nasty results. Safety rims have ridges to help keep air in and tires on. It's peace of mind knowing the air isn't gonna get out when cornering hard. George Haynes Diamondback says that's not so. _http://www.widewhitewalltires.com/2008Catalog/hi/29.htmb_ (http://www.widewhitewalltires.com/2008Catalog/hi/29.htmb) Best, Mike Moore **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002) From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Jan 12 19:50:02 2009 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 21:50:02 EST Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2009 8:31:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, MMoore8425 at aol.com writes: Diamondback says that's not so. Diamondback says "never run tubes" but does not address the absence of a safety ridge on very old wheels - seems they are too preoccupied with the bias vs. radial issue to notice the exception to their "never run tubes" rule. I have 2 sets of wheels old enough to not have a safety ridge - being preoccupied with safety, and fond of spirited driving, I will always run tubes in those - including the set that has Diamondback tires on it. Cheers, Jack Mc **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Jan 12 20:48:10 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 22:48:10 EST Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2009 6:50:02 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, McGaheyRx writes: Diamondback says "never run tubes" but does not address the absence of a safety ridge on very old wheels - seems they are too preoccupied with the bias vs. radial issue to notice the exception to their "never run tubes" rule. I have 2 sets of wheels old enough to not have a safety ridge - being preoccupied with safety, and fond of spirited driving, I will always run tubes in those - including the set that has Diamondback tires on it. Cheers, Jack Mc My TR3 tires haven't tubes. Mike Moore **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002) From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Jan 13 09:30:40 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 11:30:40 EST Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2009 7:47:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes: I have been running tubeless tires on TR3 and TR4 rims for a long time under all sorts of conditions. List, I have the 165 Michelin X repros from Coker on the original steel rims of my TR3B w/o tubes. I was a little concerned about it but after reading some of the posts on this issue I am now alright. In fact I may be more concerned about the Michelin X Redline repro's on my TR6 that do not require tubes that I have mounted with tubes on 6", vintage 4 Spoke American Racing Mags. Take them out? The valve stems look off center to the wheel so the tubes are not in the correct position. Then there is the TR4 which has Dunlop 165's mounted on 5", 8 Spoke A/R's. Now that one has a problem for the passenger side front loses air over time and I could be cornering with low pressure, therefore it would be best to put tubes in, huh? Just happen to have a brand new set. Also I have new Michelin Redlines for the TR250 to go on this spring, but the 250 has 60 spoke painted wire wheels. Now even though I plan on buying new wire wheels, those will require tubes, correct? Interesting discussion, Darrell **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 13 09:52:18 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 08:52:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090113165218.WDNI16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Now that one has a problem for the passenger side front > loses air over time and I could be cornering with low > pressure, therefore it would be best to put tubes in, huh? "Best" to get the leak fixed, IMO. Dismount the tire, inspect the bead surface for any flaws, and put a coat of paint inside the wheel. Otherwise, if the pressure is low (and 20 psi is dang low IMO, easy to tell from the cars handling that there is a problem), drive carefully without any hard cornering to the nearest service station and put more air in. Remember that the low tire will have very poor traction and lateral stability anyway; so the tire on the other side will be handling most of the side force of cornering. As long as you don't get into a situation where it could slide, you won't have a problem with too much side force on the low tire. > Now even though I plan on buying new wire wheels, those will > require tubes, correct? Dayton now offers "tubeless" wire wheels. These are fairly ordinary wire wheels and look exactly the same from the outside, but the area inside the wheel where there is normally a rubber band is instead filled with silicone RTV to seal the spokes. I put a set on a Stag in 2004 and they still seem to hold air just fine. Randall From McGaheyRx at aol.com Tue Jan 13 10:18:20 2009 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 12:18:20 EST Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/13/2009 11:30:58 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: In fact I may be more concerned about the Michelin X Redline repro's on my TR6 that do not require tubes that I have mounted with tubes on 6", vintage 4 Spoke American Racing Mags. Take them out? The valve stems look off center to the wheel so the tubes are not in the correct position. Darrell - you may have the wrong tubes in those tires. I had mine (which I believe are just like yours) mounted - and tires shaved and wheels balanced - by Allen Hendrix - _http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/_ (http://www.hendrixwirewheel.com/) - Allen pointed out that most wheels have the valve stem oriented to the side, whereas these wheels have the valve stem opening straight down toward the center of the wheel - you need tubes with the valve stem in that position - Allen had those and mine are still dead center. Also - if Allen mounts your tires on a wheel with no bead guard hump (older wheels made before the widespread use of tubeless tires) you will get tubes. I guess it could be said that since we hardly ever have flat tires these days anyway that it won't matter if you run tubeless on these older wheels - but the simple (and safe) truth is that wheel makers started putting the bead guard hump on wheels after the widespread use of tubeless tires because the sudden loose of air in tubeless tires on older wheels without the hump often had catastrophic results. Cheers, Jack Mc **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://news.aol.com?ncid=emlcntusnews00000002) From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Jan 13 11:07:03 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:07:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: <20090113165218.WDNI16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090113165218.WDNI16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: > Dayton now offers "tubeless" wire wheels. These are fairly ordinary wire> wheels and look exactly the same from the outside, but the area inside the> wheel where there is normally a rubber band is instead filled with silicone> RTV to seal the spokes. I put a set on a Stag in 2004 and they still seem> to hold air just fine.> > Randall I had a set of these "tubeless" wire wheels on my old racecar and they wouldn't hold air. I ended up putting tubes in. Maybe the fault was in my Dunlop Racing bias ply tires, though. John H. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Jan 13 11:11:01 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:11:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors Message-ID: <496CD935.1050804@earthlink.net> Recently at a local cruise-in (Titusville, FL) I saw a TR6 in the restoration process. It had a new set of visors that actually matched the originals. The ones sold by TRF and Moss are the Heritage ones that have one of the corners pressed flat instead of being "puffy" like the rest of the visor. I never did find the gent who owned the car. Does anyone know where to get exact reproductions of the TR6 sun visors? Thanks, Joe 72 TR6 From nwolf at u.washington.edu Tue Jan 13 12:30:31 2009 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 11:30:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: Hi Randall >Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 16:58:47 -0800 >From: "Randall" > [snip] >The safety beads primarily come into play when the tire has already lost its >air and you are still driving on the flat. Losing air in a corner with >normal inflation (over 20 psi) is an urban myth IMO. [snip] >Randall I can give you a counter-example involving a '65 VW Bug hitting a small pothole in the middle of a hard left-hand turn. Big "POP!" and the right rear tire was loose on its rim. Contributing factors were the rear engine, full back seat, and spirited driving (it was high school, OK?). In any case, it IS possible to unseat a fully inflated tubeless tire on a non-safety rim, but it's not easy and it's not going to happen under normal driving conditions. (My TR4 has the American Racing 8-spokes with no safety bead and no tubes, and I haven't had any trouble.) As a side note, my Bug was a bone-stock swing-axle car and it's worth pointing out that the tire popped off long before the swing axle would have had a chance to tuck under. Take THAT, Ralph Nader. :) Back to the 165R15 or 165/80R15 problem, the major manufacturers have really given up on us. This means we're stuck with low-volume producers whose products are generally not subect to consumer review (e.g. customer feedback on tirerack.com). If you're not already consulting these reviews for other tire purchases, you really should, because there is HUGE variation in traction and performance between different tire models, even from the same reputable manufacturer. I found this out the hard way. I wonder if it would help if a bunch of different classic car groups teamed up as a united front to lobby Michelin for a decent, modern 165R15? This really was a very common tire for small import cars in the 50's and 60's: VW Beetle, Squareback, Karmann Ghia, etc Volvo 444, 122S (Amazon), 140, etc Saab 95, 96, 99, etc Triumph TR2-TR4A Porsche 356, 914, possibly early 911/912 Alfa Romeo Giulia, Giulietta, GT, etc MGA ...and many others. Hmm, I've personally owned six cars from that list, so maybe I'm biased. ;) -Nick Wolf Seattle '62-ish Triumph TR4 (165R15 Cooper Sportmaster GLT) 2000 VW New Beetle TDI (ridiculous tire size - 205/55R16) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 13 13:08:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 12:08:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0a7501c975ba$c328af00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I can give you a counter-example involving a '65 VW Bug hitting a small > pothole in the middle of a hard left-hand turn. Big "POP!" and the right > rear tire was loose on its rim. That's interesting, Nick, thanks. OTOH, what are the chances that the same incident would have pinched the tube and caused a blowout? Or have pushed the tire past the safety bead? Having suffered several blowouts myself (all with tubed tires) I still believe that running tubes is more dangerous than tubeless tires on rims without the safety beads. Not that either one is all that likely IMO ... on average 90 people die every year in the US from being hit by lightning. > the major manufacturers have really given up on us. This means we're > stuck with low-volume producers Well, I guess, if you consider $1 billon/year to be low volume (Vredestein). Certainly not the same class as Michelin or Bridgestone, but not exactly Joe's Garage & Screen Door company either. And while not exactly as scientific as the Tire Rack tests, there are numerous consumer reviews to be found. Eg, http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=124441 "... we were surprised at how well the 16-inch Vredestein Sprint Classic tires held on." > because there is HUGE > variation in traction and performance between different tire models, even > from the same reputable manufacturer. Indeed, that is very true. And is exactly why I started down the path of fitting wider, low profile tires to my TR3A, because high performance tires were simply not available in tall, skinny profiles. This has been true for upwards of 30 years, it's not a recent thing. Something about the laws of physics ... > I wonder if it would help if a bunch of different classic car groups > teamed up as a united front to lobby Michelin for a decent, modern 165R15? I would say "no". Michelin has already made it clear that they are not interested in even producing such low volumes, by selling the rights and so on to Coker to make vintage tires. And I can't say I blame them; developing a tire, particularly a high performance tire, is a tedious, expensive process. You have to sell a whole bunch of tires to cover just the non-recurring costs. Plus I would say that the Michelin XAS and XZX qualify reasonably well as "decent, modern tires" even though they are not particularly high performance by today's standard. I feel confident that Coker will continue to offer these models in 165-15 as long as there continues to be a market for them. There is also the argument that our cars in stock form are unable to take advantage of better handling tires. If you are going to modify the car for better handling, then fitting lower profile tires makes sense. Those who want to keep their cars as original as possible are also going to get handling that is as original as possible. Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Tue Jan 13 13:22:45 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 14:22:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: nwolf wrote: so maybe I'm biased. I would expect any modern tire to be radial! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jan 13 14:15:23 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 16:15:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: <0a7501c975ba$c328af00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <0a7501c975ba$c328af00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <8CB43DB2E4EEB4B-614-956@WEBMAIL-DC12.sysops.aol.com> Potentially interesting reading on the subject: And for whatever it's worth, I looked at stacks of Herald and Spitfire rims, all of which originally had tubeless tires, and none has any special additional 'channel' for the bead, although I think most modern rims nowadays do (didn't have a bare one handy to check). And completely on-topic: I ran my '60 TR3A for several years on "oversize" 6.85 x 15 bias-ply (Volvo wagon size) tubeless tires...because there were two good ones on the car when I bought it, and I was able to obtain two matching tires (Dunlop, of course!) to complete the set. This was back in 1972; I didn't have $200 for a set of five Michelin "X" radials at the time, college being what it was and all.... ;-) (Besides, I'd only paid $125 for the car!) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Tue Jan 13 14:18:01 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 16:18:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR2 longdoor on craigslist Message-ID: <172632.1231881481620.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FYI - just found it: Anyone interested??? rare Triumph TR2 "longdoor" roadster - all there!!! http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/991110129.html Best, Rick feibusch BritishCarNetwork Venice, CA From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 13 15:34:34 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 17:34:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR2 longdoor on craigslist In-Reply-To: <172632.1231881481620.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <172632.1231881481620.JavaMail.root@mswamui-swiss.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <200901131734.34871.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 13 January 2009 16:18:01 rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net wrote: > FYI - just found it: > > Anyone interested??? > > > rare Triumph TR2 "longdoor" roadster - all there!!! > > http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/991110129.html > > > Best, > > Rick feibusch Rick, The listing has been removed. Bob From mmoore8425 at aol.com Tue Jan 13 15:33:38 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (mmoore8425) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 14:33:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: <20090113165218.WDNI16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <6884E038.624E.4550.9381.76F716186043@aol.com> On Jan 13, 2009, at 8:52:18 AM, Randall wrote: and 20 psi is dang low IMO, easy to tell I'm pretty sure the original factory manual says that was the pressure recommended for the original bias tires. Mike Moore From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jan 13 15:41:38 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 17:41:38 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors Message-ID: In a message dated 1/13/2009 5:18:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, rclark at robertsonclark.com writes: Perhaps the key is proper crimping with the right tool and not just using a pair of lineman's pliers that most of us are guilty of using. OK, I would like to line up Bob's url _http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy_ (http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy) and the statement about lineman's pliers. An electrician gave me what he said is a "proper" crimping tool and it makes a crimp that looks just like what Bob has posted. I thought the things were lineman's pliers. Maybe not. I have crimped a connection and then clamped it in the vice to do a little destructive testing. It held very well. What gives? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jan 13 15:44:13 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 17:44:13 EST Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/13/2009 5:35:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mmoore8425 at aol.com writes: On Jan 13, 2009, at 8:52:18 AM, Randall wrote: and 20 psi is dang low IMO, easy to tell I'm pretty sure the original factory manual says that was the pressure recommended for the original bias tires. Mike Moore Yes, and the life expectancy (human, not tire) has increased by ten years since we stopped doing that! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 13 15:53:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 14:53:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: <6884E038.624E.4550.9381.76F716186043@aol.com> References: <20090113165218.WDNI16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> <6884E038.624E.4550.9381.76F716186043@aol.com> Message-ID: <0ac801c975d1$cb8ba0f0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm pretty sure the original factory manual says that was the pressure > recommended for the original bias tires. Good point. But driving hard on bias ply tires is asking for trouble anyway, IMO 20 psi makes my TR3A drive like the tires have turned to marshmallows, but YMMV. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 13 16:02:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 15:02:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0ac901c975d2$f2570160$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > An > electrician gave me what he said is a "proper" crimping tool and it makes > a crimp that > looks just like what Bob has posted. I thought the things were lineman's > pliers. Maybe not. I think it's safe to say that anything producing a crimp similar to the one Bob showed is not a pair of linesman's pliers. http://store.eldoradotoolsales.com/vis-2078208.html > I have crimped a connection and then clamped it in > the vice > to do a little destructive testing. It held very well. There is more to an electrical connection than just physical holding power. It has to not only make a gas-tight joint to the copper (since copper exposed to air eventually forms copper oxide, a semi-conductor), but hold that joint through time, heat cycles and vibration. The advantage of solder is that it creates a huge area of gas-tight contact, compared to the relatively small points created in a crimp to stranded wire. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Jan 13 16:56:13 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 23:56:13 -0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors References: Message-ID: I prefer solder, then a spray of die-electric fluif followed by the slideover sheath and then a heat-shrink cover with a final spray of fluif on the mating male terminals. Overkill perhaps but I've never had a joint break or a bad contact yet :) This tip was given to me by a guy who was a whiz at sorting electrics on Fiats - but I don't think he ever did Fiat bodywork so I guess there could be lots of rotting Fiats still running around with fully operational electrics which, when you consider Magneti-Marelli electrics, is something of an "Lucasi-oxymoron" in its own right :) Jonmac From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 14 07:55:33 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 14:55:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: <8CB43DB2E4EEB4B-614-956@WEBMAIL-DC12.sysops.aol.com> References: <0a7501c975ba$c328af00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <8CB43DB2E4EEB4B-614-956@WEBMAIL-DC12.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I want to through in my story. I got my first set of Michelin radials in the late sixties on a Chevy Caprice. They were mounted tubeless. One day on going around a freeway curve at 65-70 mph I hit a rock the size of a softball with the left front tire. When the tire didn't blow I didn't even stop to check for damage. When I did stop at my destination I checked and found the impact had bent the steel rim about an inch. I took the car to the Michelin dealer and they inspected the tire and straightened the rim with a cresent wrench. There wasn't any observable damage to the tire. I have been using Michelins ever since. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_01200 9 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 14 09:04:03 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:04:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process Message-ID: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure which is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it wrong. I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd do that until there were no more air bubbles. The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder. And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Jan 14 09:13:34 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 10:13:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <890DAAF7F98E4365B1A9E65BACCB6D2F@KARL> I've always used the same method as in Hemmings, although I don't always have her pump up and down, but rather just press the pedal down and hold, reminding her to follow through as the pedal drops when I open the bleeder. If you pump up and down with the bleeder open, you'll suck in some air at the bleeder and waste time at least. You might also aerate the fluid, particularly with silicone (DOT5), and make it harder to bleed all the air out. Karl > The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure > which > is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it > wrong. > > > I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few > times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd > do > that until there were no more air bubbles. > > The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant > gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you > OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder. > And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. > > So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder > CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter? > > Thanks > Bob > > Bob Danielson From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Jan 14 10:00:36 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:00:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> <890DAAF7F98E4365B1A9E65BACCB6D2F@KARL> Message-ID: > If you pump up and down with the bleeder open, you'll suck in some air at > the bleeder and waste time at least. You might also aerate the fluid, > particularly with silicone (DOT5), and make it harder to bleed all the air > out. But if you run a piece of tubing from the bleeder into a bottle of clean brake fluid and keep the tubing under the surface, you can both see the air bubbles leaving and prevent the induction of air into the brake lines. I have always done it this way. First, install tubing and place in bottle of fluif; second, open bleeder; third, have assistant pump until no more bubbles seen; fourth, tighten bleeder and top up MC; fifth, proceed to next wheel; sixth, repeat procedure depending upon number of wheels (four is usual, but YMMV); seventh, open two bottles of Newcastle, one for you and one for able assistant. Mike From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jan 14 10:07:17 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 10:07:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process In-Reply-To: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: The Hemmings way is how I was taught to do it and it has always worked. To leave the thing open while you pump the brake can suck air up through the bleeder valve. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 9:04 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure which is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it wrong. I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd do that until there were no more air bubbles. The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder. And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Jan 14 10:32:42 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 12:32:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process In-Reply-To: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <8CB44853D41A5CF-CA0-638@WEBMAIL-DC12.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure which is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it wrong. I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd do that until there were no more air bubbles. The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder. And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. ==AM== My fear of the "Hemmings" procedure (groundless fear though it might be) is that pushing on the pedal before opening the bleeed screw could distribute the air bubbles around the system and not towards the bleed screw you're about to open. Maybe that's just silly? I donno.... Anyway, Girling recommends the "open bleed screw first" procedure, or at least they did back in 1964. See: This is also the way the various Triumph workshop manuals have described. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 14 10:33:59 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:33:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <002901c9766e$aacc84e0$2ea7a8c0@sunbeam> use speed bleeders. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'Bob Danielson'" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process > The Hemmings way is how I was taught to do it and it has always worked. > To > leave the thing open while you pump the brake can suck air up through the > bleeder valve. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson > Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 9:04 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' > Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process > > The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure > which > is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it > wrong. > > > I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few > times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd > do > that until there were no more air bubbles. > > The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant > gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you > OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder. > And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. > > So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder > CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter? > > Thanks > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 14 10:42:59 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 12:42:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process Message-ID: <38F8F522F430446F9EF153A511C4E7DA@BOBSNEWPC> Thanks everyone..... I've obviously been doing it wrong which explains why it takes so long to get the bubbles out. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:04 AM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net'; '6-Pack' Subject: Brake Bleeding Process The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure which is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it wrong. I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd do that until there were no more air bubbles. The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder. And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From nwolf at u.washington.edu Wed Jan 14 11:05:22 2009 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 10:05:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. Message-ID: Hi Randall >From: "Randall" > >> the major manufacturers have really given up on us. This means we're >> stuck with low-volume producers > >Well, I guess, if you consider $1 billon/year to be low volume (Vredestein). >Certainly not the same class as Michelin or Bridgestone, but not exactly >Joe's Garage & Screen Door company either. And while not exactly as >scientific as the Tire Rack tests, there are numerous consumer reviews to be >found. Eg, >http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=124441 >"... we were surprised at how well the 16-inch Vredestein Sprint Classic >tires held on." > [snip] > >> because there is HUGE >> variation in traction and performance between different tire models, even >> from the same reputable manufacturer. > >Indeed, that is very true. And is exactly why I started down the path of >fitting wider, low profile tires to my TR3A, because high performance tires >were simply not available in tall, skinny profiles. This has been true for >upwards of 30 years, it's not a recent thing. Something about the laws of >physics ... My point was about variation in grip between different models within the same tire size. Even a 165R15 is plenty grippy for a street-driven TR4 (IMHO), as long as you choose a tire with a good compound, like the Coopers... too bad they aren't made any more. Choose badly, and even a wide tire can be downright dangerous. Even normally good manufacturers can have their duds. For example, my former Honda Del Sol came with nearly new Pirelli P5000 Drago tires on it (195/60R14). These tires were marginal in the dry, and criminally bad in the wet. Simply lifting the throttle on a gentle downhill curve was enough to break the rear end loose and send it swinging around. After several close calls, I looked at the consumer ratings and upgraded to Michelins in the same size, and the difference was night and day. That quote in the Edmunds article makes my other point exactly: The reason they were were "surprised" at how well the tire held on is because they had not been able to find consumer review ratings to verify its performance beforehand. ;) I know I'm spoiled, but I don't even consider a tire any more unless it has very high user ratings, with at least a million cumulative miles reporting in. Let somebody else test the new models as they come out; I'll stick to the tried and true. In the meantime, I'll keep on dreaming of a 165R15 Michelin HydroEdge. -Nick Wolf Seattle '62-ish TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 14 11:52:20 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 10:52:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process In-Reply-To: References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC><890DAAF7F98E4365B1A9E65BACCB6D2F@KARL> Message-ID: <0cb001c97679$3b767870$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > But if you run a piece of tubing from the bleeder into a bottle of clean > brake fluid and keep the tubing under the surface, you can both see the > air > bubbles leaving and prevent the induction of air into the brake lines. That is assuming that the threads of the bleed nipple don't leak air. I have always used a slightly different procedure, which doesn't absolutely require a tube or jar. Have a helper depress and hold the brake pedal first. Open the bleed valve, observing the resulting stream of fluid for bubbles. When the stream slows, close the valve. Then tell the helper to release the pedal. Repeat as necessary until no more bubbles are observed. Then wipe up the mess with paper towels Of course, a tube & jar will greatly reduce the mess, but they aren't always readily available. This method also avoids any chance of sucking contaminated (old, wet or non-DOT 5) fluid back from the jar. Randall From opposumking at verizon.net Wed Jan 14 12:09:14 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 14:09:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <001e01c9767b$97bc3a00$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Not a hill of beans difference between the two methods. Both result in fluid being pushed out the bleeder, air stays on top of the fluid regardless, so you bleed the brakes either way. Since I often work alone, I use the jar and tube method. It also lets me look at the fluid easily (clear tubing). Next, the order in which you bleed the wheels. Which also really doesn't matter. From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Wed Jan 14 12:13:15 2009 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:13:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process In-Reply-To: <0cb001c97679$3b767870$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC><890DAAF7F98E4365B1A9E65BACCB6D2F@KARL> <0cb001c97679$3b767870$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: I wipe some grease over the threads at the base of the bleed screw to block leaks at the threads. It might be overkill, but I think it helps make bleeding go faster. Roger Wilson '60 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 10:52 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process > But if you run a piece of tubing from the bleeder into a bottle of clean > brake fluid and keep the tubing under the surface, you can both see the > air > bubbles leaving and prevent the induction of air into the brake lines. That is assuming that the threads of the bleed nipple don't leak air. I have always used a slightly different procedure, which doesn't absolutely require a tube or jar. Have a helper depress and hold the brake pedal first. Open the bleed valve, observing the resulting stream of fluid for bubbles. When the stream slows, close the valve. Then tell the helper to release the pedal. Repeat as necessary until no more bubbles are observed. Then wipe up the mess with paper towels Of course, a tube & jar will greatly reduce the mess, but they aren't always readily available. This method also avoids any chance of sucking contaminated (old, wet or non-DOT 5) fluid back from the jar. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 14 12:15:15 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 14:15:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4F92E2F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <38F8F522F430446F9EF153A511C4E7DA@BOBSNEWPC> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4F92E2F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <9987EFAEA680424D8636D5AC2D9C3261@BOBSNEWPC> Well speed bleeders are waiting to be installed which prompted the questions as I figure I'll be bleeding the brakes after installing them. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 12:53 PM To: Bob Danielson; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' Subject: RE: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process I'm not sure you have been doing it wrong vs different. Does that technique not implement the same procedure that the speed bleeders use (open valve, press pedal, close valve, release pedal) ?. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 12:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process Thanks everyone..... I've obviously been doing it wrong which explains why it takes so long to get the bubbles out. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jan 14 13:19:59 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 15:19:59 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process Message-ID: First of all I am glad to see a topic that gets as much attention as what tire size to use. I do the pressure on the pedal, open bleeder, and close bleeder while pressure is still on the line. Repeat as necessary. I also have a clear tube so I can see the bubbles. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's capital. (http://news.aol.com/main/politics/inauguration?ncid=emlcntusnews00000003) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 14 15:07:53 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 22:07:53 -0000 Subject: [TR] Updates on the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa website Message-ID: <942E00A5F16D4412AFF9BDF136910D72@Bevan> There are four new features on the website www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk at this moment: 1. A photo of the Stag's distributor being checked for accuracy under various advance settings 2. The opportunity to make on-line donations to whichever of the three charities/non-profits you may want to support 3. A *slightly' revised map, and 4. A day by day breakout of where the Drive will be during July this year. A few things in terms of venues and dates need to be firmed up for August and September and as soon as this is done, I'll expand the page and notify the lists. Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net Wed Jan 14 15:11:23 2009 From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 16:11:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Grassroots Motorsports current issue Message-ID: <20090114221124.KVXR14508.omta02.suddenlink.net@your-ze8cxvr8tt.suddenlink.net> There was a thread two weeks ago about an article in Grassroots Motorsports magazine regarding 12 steps to take before starting a rebuilt engine. I have been unable to source said mag here in the lovely Ozarks and was wondering if someone could enlighten me as to what the steps are. I'm very close to getting my car ready to start. Thanks for your help! Jeffrey From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Wed Jan 14 15:20:39 2009 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 14:20:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Anyone near Orlando? Message-ID: Hello TR list folks, I am looking at buying a TR4A located near Orlando FL, but I'm on the west coast. Is there anyone in that area that might look at it for me prior to my going out to see it in person? I could pay you for your time. Would like it viewed as critically as possible so I can evaluate the car so I can avoid any surprises. The owner has been very pleasant to deal with, and the car looks quite nice based on photos and what he has told me. Thanks! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 14 16:22:48 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 18:22:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Grassroots Motorsports current issue In-Reply-To: <20090114221124.KVXR14508.omta02.suddenlink.net@your-ze8cxvr8tt.suddenlink.net> References: <20090114221124.KVXR14508.omta02.suddenlink.net@your-ze8cxvr8tt.suddenlink.net> Message-ID: <59332CFFB5E742BA83CCAE3D9867FB7F@BOBSNEWPC> Jeff, I posted that email after reading through the issue in Borders. If no one has a copy, it looks like you can buy the issue directly from GRM http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/store/issues/us/ It was in the Dec issue. BTW.... There's some great online articles from the magazine here http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/ I just read through a real good article on shock absorbers.......which really don't absorb shock. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeffrey Johnson Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 5:11 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Grassroots Motorsports current issue There was a thread two weeks ago about an article in Grassroots Motorsports magazine regarding 12 steps to take before starting a rebuilt engine. I have been unable to source said mag here in the lovely Ozarks and was wondering if someone could enlighten me as to what the steps are. I'm very close to getting my car ready to start. Thanks for your help! Jeffrey This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 14 16:40:15 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 18:40:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Non-TR. too much coolant? Message-ID: <003d01c976a1$741bf010$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> My 89yo mother added an extra gallon of anti-freeze to AN ALREADY FULL white plastic coolant over-run-resrvoir on her big GM air-conditioned car. DO I NEED TO DRAIN IT OUT? The plastic antifreeze over-run container has the proper level (both when hot or cold) on the side but she didn't read that. Mistakenly, I had been blamed for negligence (because I seem to only work on the TR) and she thought the level way-low. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 950 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Wed Jan 14 16:50:15 2009 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 18:50:15 EST Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process Message-ID: Use the edit / trim post function. In a message dated 1/14/09 12:37:12 PM Eastern Standard Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: << Subj: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process Date: 1/14/09 12:37:12 PM Eastern Standard Time From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net ('6-Pack') use speed bleeders. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'Bob Danielson'" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process > The Hemmings way is how I was taught to do it and it has always worked. > To > leave the thing open while you pump the brake can suck air up through the > bleeder valve. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson > Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 9:04 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' > Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process > > The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure > which > is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it > wrong. > > > I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few > times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd > do > that until there were no more air bubbles. > > The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant > gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you > OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder. > And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. > > So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder > CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter? > > Thanks > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as zinkz10c at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive >> From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 14 16:55:19 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 18:55:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Route through central NY In-Reply-To: <942E00A5F16D4412AFF9BDF136910D72@Bevan> References: <942E00A5F16D4412AFF9BDF136910D72@Bevan> Message-ID: <200901141855.19446.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 14 January 2009 17:07:53 John Macartney wrote: > There are four new features on the website www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > at this moment: > > 1. A photo of the Stag's distributor being checked for accuracy under > various advance settings 2. The opportunity to make on-line donations to > whichever of the three charities/non-profits you may want to support > 3. A *slightly' revised map, and > 4. A day by day breakout of where the Drive will be during July this year. > A few things in terms of venues and dates need to be firmed up for August > and September and as soon as this is done, I'll expand the page and notify > the lists. > > Jonmac > John, I see the new route has you passing through central NY in what looks like after your stop in BOston. Do you have any idea of when you will be passing through Utica NY? I assume you will be on the Thruway (I90). It would be an honor to drive with you for awhile since you are not stopping here. THanks Bob (1958 TR3, 1963 TR4, and 1972 TR6 (in restoration) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 14 17:05:15 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 16:05:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Non-TR. too much coolant? In-Reply-To: <003d01c976a1$741bf010$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003d01c976a1$741bf010$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <0d9101c976a4$f218de80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My 89yo mother added an extra gallon of anti-freeze to AN ALREADY FULL > white > plastic coolant over-run-resrvoir on her big GM air-conditioned car. DO > I NEED TO DRAIN IT OUT? While not absolutely necessary, under the circumstances I would suggest removing enough from the reservoir to take the level back down to where it should be. Otherwise, it may be forced out the overflow when the engine gets hot, and be mistaken for a further cooling problem. However I don't believe there is any need to fully drain and refill, just remove enough to bring the level down. Although it will raise the overall concentration of anti-freeze to water somewhat, I don't believe it will harm anything. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jan 14 17:51:22 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 17:51:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Non-TR. too much coolant? In-Reply-To: <003d01c976a1$741bf010$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003d01c976a1$741bf010$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <79DC36A6FF5C499D8A10651979A28500@sniffer> Paul, If you don't drain it back to the proper level it will self-adjust by dumping your $9 a gallon antifreeze out on the streets of town as the car heats up to normal running temps. Drain it out now and put it in the TR, looks like a long cold winter Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 4:40 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Non-TR. too much coolant? My 89yo mother added an extra gallon of anti-freeze to AN ALREADY FULL white plastic coolant over-run-resrvoir on her big GM air-conditioned car. DO I NEED TO DRAIN IT OUT? The plastic antifreeze over-run container has the proper level (both when hot or cold) on the side but she didn't read that. Mistakenly, I had been blamed for negligence (because I seem to only work on the TR) and she thought the level way-low. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 950 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.7/1893 - Release Date: 1/14/2009 6:59 AM From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Jan 14 21:24:07 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 20:24:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip Message-ID: <593294.26709.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I've often thought it would be fun to plan a cross country trip/caraven for LBC's just for fun picking up people as we go. Allowing anyone interested in joining, organized loosely and possibly with tech support. One route considered would be northern..............dakota's........montana..........including the columbia river route.........all two lanes. another possibility would be route 66. these would be considerable jogs............specially considering driving back east after getting to the left coast. LOL is this crazy or what? lol gary n. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 14 21:58:23 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 20:58:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip In-Reply-To: <593294.26709.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090115045822.POQC16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > another possibility would be route 66. One of the things on my "bucket list"! Better do it soon, though, as there isn't a lot left of the original route, and less all the time. But before that, I hope to be able to tag along with Jonmac this summer/fall (just partway). Randall From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 14 22:42:35 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 05:42:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip In-Reply-To: <593294.26709.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <186698400.268211231998155931.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Um. http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ Sue and I are planning on joining in the Twin Cities in September... Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Gary Nafziger" wrote: > From: "Gary Nafziger" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 10:24:07 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip > > I've often thought it would be fun to plan a cross country > trip/caraven for > LBC's just for fun picking up people as we go. Allowing anyone > interested in > joining, organized loosely and possibly with tech support. One route > considered would be > northern..............dakota's........montana..........including the > columbia > river route.........all two lanes. > > another possibility would be route 66. > these would be considerable jogs............specially considering > driving back > east after getting to the left coast. LOL > > is this crazy or what? lol > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Thu Jan 15 03:09:22 2009 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 11:09:22 +0100 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC><890DAAF7F98E4365B1A9E65BACCB6D2F@KARL> <0cb001c97679$3b767870$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: FWIW I have always followed the method outlined by Randall. Open valve, have assistant push pedal down, observe transparent tube for bubbles. When pedal fully down close valve whilst assistant lets pedal come back. Repeat until no more bubbles. Whilst this is going on keep the reservoir topped up.Usually start with the wheel closest to the reservoir, ending withe wheel farthest. This is also a good way to change the fluif as you can see when it flows out clean. The disadvantage of this method in my case at least is that when the operation is finished, SWAMBO gives you some frightful job in the garden or the laundry because you have taken her time in such a boring and time consuming way. On a related matter, some years ago I tried a single handed attempt with a Gunsons Easy Bleed kit. Ended up with fluif all over the rear end of the engine bay! Can this Easy Bleed kit be made to work? David Brister 1967 TR4A. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 17940 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Jan 15 06:20:23 2009 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 05:20:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC><890DAAF7F98E4365B1A9E65BACCB6D2F@KARL> <0cb001c97679$3b767870$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1A6D0582C05946ABA1AEC7B018901419@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I do Randall's quick method of bleeding my TRs hyd system as well. However, I lay newspapers down, under the wheels, and slave when bleeding is necessary. The newspapers catch the old fluid and your newspaper minimizes the clean-up. Successful bleeding, Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 10:52 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process > But if you run a piece of tubing from the bleeder into a bottle of clean > brake fluid and keep the tubing under the surface, you can both see the > air > bubbles leaving and prevent the induction of air into the brake lines. That is assuming that the threads of the bleed nipple don't leak air. I have always used a slightly different procedure, which doesn't absolutely require a tube or jar. Have a helper depress and hold the brake pedal first. Open the bleed valve, observing the resulting stream of fluid for bubbles. When the stream slows, close the valve. Then tell the helper to release the pedal. Repeat as necessary until no more bubbles are observed. Then wipe up the mess with paper towels Of course, a tube & jar will greatly reduce the mess, but they aren't always readily available. This method also avoids any chance of sucking contaminated (old, wet or non-DOT 5) fluid back from the jar. Randall _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From supertr6 at earthlink.net Thu Jan 15 07:08:48 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 09:08:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... Message-ID: <496F4370.3030708@earthlink.net> Bump! No one has seen matching sun visors anywhere? Joe -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:11:01 -0500 From: Joe Burlein To: Triumph List Recently at a local cruise-in (Titusville, FL) I saw a TR6 in the restoration process. It had a new set of visors that actually matched the originals. The ones sold by TRF and Moss are the Heritage ones that have one of the corners pressed flat instead of being "puffy" like the rest of the visor. I never did find the gent who owned the car. Does anyone know where to get exact reproductions of the TR6 sun visors? Thanks, Joe 72 TR6 From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 15 08:00:14 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 15:00:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process In-Reply-To: <152638635.312421232031436423.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1502435835.313221232031614576.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "David Brister" wrote: > SWAMBO I thought this was "SWMBO". What's the "A" for, "always"? > some years ago I tried a single handed attempt > with a > Gunsons Easy Bleed kit. Ended up with fluif all over the rear end of > the > engine bay! Can this Easy Bleed kit be made to work? Yes. Two important rules: 1. Use very little pressure. This method will work with 1 or 2 PSI. So bleed the spare tire way down before you start. 2 Be sure to test the system at pressure before you put any fluid in the bottle. If there is any doubt at all about the sealing you are getting at the reservoir cap, don't put fluid in the bottle. This method actually works fine just on the fluid in the reservoir, so you don't need to put fluid in the bottle. The only problem then is that you mus stop and top of the reservoir more often. These extra steps are well-worth the time. I could NEVER get a hard pedal in my Europa using conventional pedal bleeding. The idea is that there were too many high spots in the system. One stroke of the pedal was not enough to get a bubble from a high spot past the next low spot, so the bubble would just migrate back to the high spot between strokes. Pressure bleeding with the Gunson would move these bubble all the way out in one shot. Another advantage of this method is that I have never needed to bench-bleed a master cylinder. Filling the system with the Gunson has always been enough to get all the air out. Lastly, when you use a Gunson, you don't need to put any foreign stuff on the bleeder threads. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 15 08:18:11 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 15:18:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Non-TR. too much coolant? In-Reply-To: <79DC36A6FF5C499D8A10651979A28500@sniffer> Message-ID: <1120991005.319161232032691912.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > Drain it out now and put it in the TR, looks like a long cold winter Buy her a new turkey-baster and use the old one to remove the extra glycol from the reservoir. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From trglory at verizon.net Thu Jan 15 09:20:16 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Jos Laurito) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 11:20:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... In-Reply-To: <496F4370.3030708@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Joe (B); Everyone I know has replaced the original sagging bags of rot with visors that have the inside corner pressed flat. I put about 20,000 miles on the car since I installed them and they seem to work just fine. Joe (L) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 9:09 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... Bump! No one has seen matching sun visors anywhere? Joe From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Thu Jan 15 09:33:43 2009 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 11:33:43 EST Subject: [TR] Cross-Country Triumph Trip Message-ID: Gary, Go for it! I didn't think such a trip was crazy in 2001, when I drove my TR4A from Rochester, NY to Bonneville, Pebble Beach and then Breckenridge, CO for the VTR convention. My wife - still working at the time - met me in San Fran, did the middle miles with me, then flew home from Denver. Two mechanical incidents were not disabling and I fixed along the way. About 6,800 miles in all. I'd love to do it again and considered driving to San Luis Obispo this year but opted for Jekyll Island instead - a wimpy 1,100 miles each way but some friends are making the trip with me this time. George Haynes ************** Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's capital. (http://news.aol.com/main/politics/inauguration?ncid=emlcntusnews00000003) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 15 09:26:32 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 10:26:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip References: <593294.26709.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000501c97730$a2d03760$fd0210ac@sunbeam> i think its a fabulous idea! all i need is a month or two off from work and the money to pay for it!!! ship your car one direction, then drive back. if you want to do route 66, count me in around new mexico through texas and little beyond. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Nafziger" To: Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 10:24 PM Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip > I've often thought it would be fun to plan a cross country trip/caraven > for > LBC's just for fun picking up people as we go. Allowing anyone interested > in > joining, organized loosely and possibly with tech support. One route > considered would be > northern..............dakota's........montana..........including the > columbia > river route.........all two lanes. > > another possibility would be route 66. > these would be considerable jogs............specially considering driving > back > east after getting to the left coast. LOL > > is this crazy or what? lol > > gary n. From McGaheyRx at aol.com Thu Jan 15 10:40:37 2009 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 12:40:37 EST Subject: [TR] Cross-Country Triumph Trip Message-ID: In a message dated 1/15/2009 11:34:06 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com writes: Go for it! I didn't think such a trip was crazy in 2001, when I drove my TR4A from Rochester, NY to Bonneville, Pebble Beach and then Breckenridge, CO for the VTR convention. My wife - still working at the time - met me in San Fran, did the middle miles with me, then flew home from Denver. I'll echo George's experience - I caravanned most way to and from Breckenridge in 2001 with a group from Virginia and North Carolina - it was a great experience - We're going to try it again this fall to and from San Luis Cheers, Jack Mc **************Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's capital.(http://www.aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000027) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 15 11:37:04 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 10:37:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process In-Reply-To: References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC><890DAAF7F98E4365B1A9E65BACCB6D2F@KARL><0cb001c97679$3b767870$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <0f5201c97740$43c53620$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The disadvantage of this method in my case at least is that when the > operation is finished, SWAMBO gives you some frightful job in the garden > or > the laundry because you have taken her time in such a boring and time > consuming way. Yeah, but then you also get credit for having taken care of a "honey dew". A small price to pay, IMO. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Jan 15 13:34:35 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 15:34:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... In-Reply-To: <496F4370.3030708@earthlink.net> References: <496F4370.3030708@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <200901151534.36181.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 15 January 2009 09:08:48 Joe Burlein wrote: > Bump! No one has seen matching sun visors anywhere? > > Joe > > -------- Original Message -------- > Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:11:01 -0500 > From: Joe Burlein > To: Triumph List > > > > Recently at a local cruise-in (Titusville, FL) I saw a TR6 in the > restoration process. It had a new set of visors that actually matched > the originals. The ones sold by TRF and Moss are the Heritage ones that > have one of the corners pressed flat instead of being "puffy" like the > rest of the visor. I never did find the gent who owned the car. Does > anyone know where to get exact reproductions of the TR6 sun visors? > > Thanks, > > Joe > 72 TR6 Joe, I see visors for sale on Ebay but I am not sure if they are NOS or repros. The ones I took of my 6 project (also a 72) are in real good shape for their age. The passenger mirror could be in better shape but overall they cleaned up real nice and I plan to use them on the completed car. I think there is a passenger side one on ebay right now with the mirror but doesnt look in that good of shape. Bob From supertr6 at earthlink.net Thu Jan 15 14:00:25 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:00:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... In-Reply-To: <200901151534.36181.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <496F4370.3030708@earthlink.net> <200901151534.36181.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <496FA3E9.9000606@earthlink.net> Thanks Bob. My passenger side one is the one that is bad. (As are all my extras). I'll check on Fleabay. I'd be shocked if the car I saw had original visors though. I guess they could have been old NOS stuff. Joe Bob wrote: > On Thursday 15 January 2009 09:08:48 Joe Burlein wrote: > >> Bump! No one has seen matching sun visors anywhere? >> >> Joe >> >> -------- Original Message -------- >> Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors >> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:11:01 -0500 >> From: Joe Burlein >> To: Triumph List >> >> >> >> Recently at a local cruise-in (Titusville, FL) I saw a TR6 in the >> restoration process. It had a new set of visors that actually matched >> the originals. The ones sold by TRF and Moss are the Heritage ones that >> have one of the corners pressed flat instead of being "puffy" like the >> rest of the visor. I never did find the gent who owned the car. Does >> anyone know where to get exact reproductions of the TR6 sun visors? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Joe >> 72 TR6 >> > Joe, > > I see visors for sale on Ebay but I am not sure if they are NOS or repros. > > The ones I took of my 6 project (also a 72) are in real good shape for their > age. The passenger mirror could be in better shape but overall they cleaned > up real nice and I plan to use them on the completed car. > > I think there is a passenger side one on ebay right now with the mirror but > doesnt look in that good of shape. > > Bob From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Jan 15 14:37:13 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:37:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... References: <496F4370.3030708@earthlink.net> <200901151534.36181.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <496FA3E9.9000606@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4E8F783EDD114D378316C27E7E7AC5FA@fred8kwiskhcfu> Scott Harper in Ohio will have most T/R parts, my problem is I have lost my info for him, list, please fill in if possile. Thanks "FT" ============================================================================================================ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Burlein" To: "Bob" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 4:00 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... > Thanks Bob. My passenger side one is the one that is bad. (As are all > my extras). I'll check on Fleabay. I'd be shocked if the car I saw had > original visors though. I guess they could have been old NOS stuff. > > Joe > > Bob wrote: >> On Thursday 15 January 2009 09:08:48 Joe Burlein wrote: >> >>> Bump! No one has seen matching sun visors anywhere? >>> >>> Joe >>> >>> -------- Original Message -------- >>> Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors >>> Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:11:01 -0500 >>> From: Joe Burlein >>> To: Triumph List >>> >>> >>> >>> Recently at a local cruise-in (Titusville, FL) I saw a TR6 in the >>> restoration process. It had a new set of visors that actually matched >>> the originals. The ones sold by TRF and Moss are the Heritage ones that >>> have one of the corners pressed flat instead of being "puffy" like the >>> rest of the visor. I never did find the gent who owned the car. Does >>> anyone know where to get exact reproductions of the TR6 sun visors? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Joe >>> 72 TR6 >>> >> Joe, >> >> I see visors for sale on Ebay but I am not sure if they are NOS or >> repros. >> >> The ones I took of my 6 project (also a 72) are in real good shape for >> their >> age. The passenger mirror could be in better shape but overall they >> cleaned >> up real nice and I plan to use them on the completed car. >> >> I think there is a passenger side one on ebay right now with the mirror >> but >> doesnt look in that good of shape. >> >> Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jan 15 15:01:44 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 14:01:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] cross country trip Message-ID: <63412.48653.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Fred.......i remember that trip you had planned. I never considered insurance as an issue. Not sure how to get around that but If someone "happens" to be driving from one place to another and others "happen" to join in on the drive what could be more innocent? lol I'm sure my individual car would be covered in an accident. Fred.............was the insurance issue an issue concerning general liability? gary n. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jan 15 15:12:59 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 14:12:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] barrett jackson Message-ID: <729768.64303.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just got back from 4 hours at Barrett/Jackson sale in Scottsdale. For wife and me $50 basic entry fee got us into basically a tourist mall. Anything and everything from furniture to jewelry although it did include auto memoribilia. Could not sit on chairs to watch the sale apparently that took even more money. Did see loads of cars of all kinds but huge majority were US muscle cars. Didn't notice any triumphs, a few healeys and jags. Seems to me they could be satisfied with vendor rental fee's and lower the prices for basic entry. It was one of the things on my bucket list but once is enuf. LOL gary n. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 15 15:32:11 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 14:32:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] barrett jackson In-Reply-To: <729768.64303.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <729768.64303.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0fb401c97761$1c1067a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Seems > to me they could be satisfied with vendor rental fee's and lower the > prices > for basic entry. Just like a high stakes poker game, it keeps out the pikers. And the sort of people that seriously shop for cars at BJ simply don't care about a measly Grant. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 15 16:02:36 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:02:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] barrett jackson In-Reply-To: <729768.64303.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <729768.64303.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, This is the first time in the last 5 years that I have not attended the BJ in Scottsdale. Each time it has not cost me a cent for entry. Many tickets are given to various organizations as promotional items. My daughter has gotten free tickets through the resorts she has worked for and that is my source. High roller bidders also do not pay and enjoy many other perks like special parking permits and of course special seating. I don't know how much those guys pull in, but getting money from buyers, sellers, vendors and the public, they have to be laughing all the way to the bank. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 3:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] barrett jackson Just got back from 4 hours at Barrett/Jackson sale in Scottsdale. For wife and me $50 basic entry fee got us into basically a tourist mall. Anything and everything from furniture to jewelry although it did include auto memoribilia. Could not sit on chairs to watch the sale apparently that took even more money. Did see loads of cars of all kinds but huge majority were US muscle cars. Didn't notice any triumphs, a few healeys and jags. Seems to me they could be satisfied with vendor rental fee's and lower the prices for basic entry. It was one of the things on my bucket list but once is enuf. LOL gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu Jan 15 16:17:44 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 18:17:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards Message-ID: <015b01c97767$78b42ae0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, An issue that's been mentioned from time to time is the fit of the TR3 stone guards supplied by several of the parts houses. Any resemblance to the fit of the originals requires hours of bending and filing. When I put my TR3 back together a dozen years ago, I found a supplier that provided a set that fit; obviously from a different source. Ran across that invoice this afternoon. The company was Sports and Classics of Darien, CT. ; phone 203.655.8731. Part no. was TRM6145. Cost back then was $39.95 for the set of four. Don't know if they're still available, but may be worth a try. Ed Woods From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Jan 15 16:34:58 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 18:34:58 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards Message-ID: tried them some time ago and was told they were out of stock. they now specialize in jaguar parts. another note, i have found them to be unpleasant to deal with and disrespectful. i had a $3000.00 order that was to be process, but because of the altitude, i cancelled and was turned onto dave from the roadster factory who turned out to be extremely helpful thruout my restoration and truly a friend. larry schwartz **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From tedtsimx at bright.net Thu Jan 15 17:45:08 2009 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 19:45:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] barrett jackson In-Reply-To: <0fb401c97761$1c1067a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <729768.64303.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <0fb401c97761$1c1067a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <496FD894.7020901@bright.net> And, if you think vendor fee's are high at B-J, our F1 vendor fees, overseas, are $26,500 for a 10 meter booth. Nothing else, just the booth space. Ted Randall wrote: >> Seems >> to me they could be satisfied with vendor rental fee's and lower the >> prices >> for basic entry. >> > > Just like a high stakes poker game, it keeps out the pikers. And the sort > of people that seriously shop for cars at BJ simply don't care about a > measly Grant. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.7/1893 - Release Date: 1/14/2009 6:59 AM From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Jan 15 20:41:25 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 20:41:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0901151941m508df5bckd88c81f58304369c@mail.gmail.com> On Thu, Jan 15, 2009 at 4:34 PM, wrote: > ...they now specialize in jaguar parts. another note, i have found them to > be unpleasant to > deal with and disrespectful... Hey, you deal with Jag owners all day and see how it affects your attitude. Okay, just kidding -- I love Jaguars and their owners. Geo From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Jan 15 20:54:33 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 22:54:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] barrett jackson References: <729768.64303.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4EA8C76BD76E421BB19C24366FC7925D@fred8kwiskhcfu> I am mailed them application every year, you must also have your bank mail a statement as to how high you can go on bidding and as Joe said tickets are N/C and that includes the private banquets. "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'Gary Nafziger'" ; Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 6:02 PM Subject: Re: [TR] barrett jackson > Gary, > This is the first time in the last 5 years that I have not attended the BJ > in Scottsdale. Each time it has not cost me a cent for entry. Many > tickets > are given to various organizations as promotional items. My daughter has > gotten free tickets through the resorts she has worked for and that is my > source. > > High roller bidders also do not pay and enjoy many other perks like > special > parking permits and of course special seating. > > I don't know how much those guys pull in, but getting money from buyers, > sellers, vendors and the public, they have to be laughing all the way to > the > bank. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger > Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 3:13 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] barrett jackson > > Just got back from 4 hours at Barrett/Jackson sale in Scottsdale. For > wife > and me $50 basic entry fee got us into basically a tourist mall. Anything > and > everything from furniture to jewelry although it did include auto > memoribilia. Could not sit on chairs to watch the sale apparently that > took > even more money. > > Did see loads of cars of all kinds but huge majority were > US muscle cars. Didn't notice any triumphs, a few healeys and jags. > > Seems > to me they could be satisfied with vendor rental fee's and lower the > prices > for basic entry. It was one of the things on my bucket list but once is > enuf. > LOL > > gary n. > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Jan 15 21:13:59 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 23:13:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Barrett-Jackson Message-ID: Remember the crowds each day are usually around 100K, you cannot possibly get 100K under a tent, the bidders area and car prep take up 5 acres alone. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Jan 16 04:39:34 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 06:39:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards In-Reply-To: <015b01c97767$78b42ae0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <015b01c97767$78b42ae0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <2D56788C2BC443F1B310803CA035FF9B@Scott> I just got done installing my stone guards that I purchased from them years ago. A much more superior quality to the ones you can buy now, but still took some tweaking. I had little contact with them but did talk to the son, who was pleasant enough. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 6:18 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards List, An issue that's been mentioned from time to time is the fit of the TR3 stone guards supplied by several of the parts houses. Any resemblance to the fit of the originals requires hours of bending and filing. When I put my TR3 back together a dozen years ago, I found a supplier that provided a set that fit; obviously from a different source. Ran across that invoice this afternoon. The company was Sports and Classics of Darien, CT. ; phone 203.655.8731. Part no. was TRM6145. Cost back then was $39.95 for the set of four. Don't know if they're still available, but may be worth a try. Ed Woods From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 16 05:46:12 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 07:46:12 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards Message-ID: I don't know if this is universal, and others may comment. I found that the drivers side rear fender is a considerably different shape than the passenger side where the stone guards fit. I never made much of it and fit mine on, but when a friend got to that stage in his restoration he told me he found the same thing. The poor fit, I found is more caused by the parts being stamped out of aluminum with a starting piece that is "generally" of the proper shape. There is a lot of material that needs trimming but when you get down to the correct size, I found the shape is quite good to the body. I read online that it is a good idea to take a Dremel cutting tool and cut a slit just under the leading edge and out of site so that water/debris can be flushed out from behind the guard. This was a seal it/don't seal it argument and I thought the don't seal it argument sounded quite reasonable provided that you make provisions for water, etc to pass through. We'll see. I have never had much luck with sealing different metals, vibration, etc. even with the most flexible of sealants. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's capital. (http://news.aol.com/main/politics/inauguration?ncid=emlcntusnews00000003) From tr3a at comcast.net Fri Jan 16 07:58:03 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 09:58:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4970A07B.5000200@comcast.net> Hmm...has anyone ever used POR-15 on the area of the rear wings and tub covered by the stone guards? I've seen it done to the portion of the tub covered by the front wings (that ridiculous sand pit behind the front wheel well), but I don't recall hearing about it under the stone guards. No one would ever see it, THAT'S for sure! DLylis at aol.com wrote: I read online that it is a good idea to take a Dremel cutting tool and cut a slit just under the leading edge and out of site so that water/debris can be flushed out from behind the guard. This was a seal it/don't seal it argument and I thought the don't seal it argument sounded quite reasonable pro vided that you make provisions for water, etc to pass through. We'll see. I have never had much luck with sealing different metals, vibration, etc. even with the most flexible of sealants. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From kentshrack at yahoo.com Fri Jan 16 09:36:23 2009 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:36:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Stone Guards Message-ID: <657360.10966.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I bought a set of Stone Guards a long time ago and when I tried fitting them, they were not even close. I dug out my original ones from the box of left overs and found them to be really rough from being blasted from sand and rocks with dimples the size of my thumbs. Using a hammer and block of wood, I knocked out the really big dents and started cross filing them which would show me where to "hammer". I worked on them as I watched TV off and on for a few days working my way down to finer and finer grit paper in a block. I got them completely polished out and they still look good today with the exception of a few spots where they are doing their job. I'd like to find another good set of original ones. Kent Shrack Lawrence, KS TS78563-o From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 16 10:15:31 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 17:15:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards In-Reply-To: <015b01c97767$78b42ae0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <015b01c97767$78b42ae0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: I have a set of NOS stone guards from the mid eighties if anyone is interested in them. Best regards, Tom > From: fogbro1 at comcast.net > To: Triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 18:17:44 -0500 > Subject: [TR] TR3 Stone Guards > > List, > > An issue that's been mentioned from time to time is the fit of the TR3 stone > guards supplied by several of the parts houses. Any resemblance to the fit of > the originals requires hours of bending and filing. > > When I put my TR3 back together a dozen years ago, I found a supplier that > provided a set that fit; obviously from a different source. > > Ran across that invoice this afternoon. The company was Sports and Classics of > Darien, CT. ; phone 203.655.8731. Part no. was TRM6145. Cost back then was > $39.95 for the set of four. > > Don't know if they're still available, but may be worth a try. > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_012009 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 16 10:39:44 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 17:39:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Stone Guards In-Reply-To: <657360.10966.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com> References: <657360.10966.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a decent set of originals. Make me an offer. Best regards, Tom > Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:36:23 -0800 > From: kentshrack at yahoo.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Stone Guards > > I bought a set of Stone Guards a long time ago and when I tried fitting them, > they were not even close. I dug out my original ones from the box of left > overs and found them to be really rough from being blasted from sand and rocks > with dimples the size of my thumbs. Using a hammer and block of wood, I > knocked out the really big dents and started cross filing them which would > show me where to "hammer". I worked on them as I watched TV off and on for a > few days working my way down to finer and finer grit paper in a block. I got > them completely polished out and they still look good today with the exception > of a few spots where they are doing their job. I'd like to find another good > set of original ones. > > Kent Shrack Lawrence, KS TS78563-o > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.: Chat. Store. Share. Do more with mail. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_hm_justgotbetter_explore_ 012009 From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Jan 16 11:26:49 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 13:26:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] stone guards Message-ID: <459B319858D74B76926F36836406763C@fred8kwiskhcfu> I place the S/G against the fender and using a felt marking pen, mark the high spots with a line from A to B, then file that spot and refit until I have a nice snug fir, powder coat and then find the thinnest ="door edge protector"=and wrap around the guards, always a very good fit this way and the P/C withstands the road assualt, present set are over 15 years old "FT" From ElangTR4 at aol.com Fri Jan 16 13:55:07 2009 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 15:55:07 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... Message-ID: Fred and listers, Scott Harper can be reached at Team Triumph in Warren, Ohio 330-392-7176 or _teamtri at aol.com_ (mailto:teamtri at aol.com) _www.teamtriumph.com_ (http://www.teamtriumph.com) Scott is a good source for all things Triumph and a good guy too. NFI and all that... Eric L. 71 TR6 I got my vinyl dash kit from TRF last week and got around this week to putting it on. First of all, the width of the vinyl was less than 8.5" in some place around the glove box area and this made for a VERY tight fit pulling over 1/8"-1/4" to wrap around as recommended. But my real problem came several hours after I finished when I notice that the vinyl was splitting in the corners of the gauge cluster opening. Two of the splits should be covered by the faceplate but one will not, I will probably try to section a small sliver of scrap material into the split to hide as best as I can. Before I try this again, are there any suggestion that the list can provide for a smoother application? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Jan 16 15:25:37 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 17:25:37 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... Message-ID: In a message dated 1/16/2009 3:55:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ElangTR4 at aol.com writes: Scott is a good source for all things Triumph and a good guy too. NFI and all that... Eric L. 71 TR6 I second that one. Scott has provided countless items for my Triumphs. He is a "Breaker" as well as a distributor of new parts from various sources including the UK. He is very knowledgeable and I just wish he was a "Club Type Guy" so I could recruit him for Concours Judging. I go to school every time I visit his place. He gets me the stuff I want as a sometimes originality freak. Rare original used spares can be had at reasonable prices @ Team Triumph, NFI. BTW, I got burned on ebay by a purchasing a supposed NOS set of sun visors. They had the flat flap being discussed and are junk as compared to the originals. New Old Repro Stock, Dude! Darrell **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri Jan 16 15:42:59 2009 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 14:42:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Covering Kit References: Message-ID: <471A235671954ADC81C41818BF91ED47@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Hi Bill, I just had the same problem as you did from my TRF kit. I ended up sending the kit back because of the lack of material I needed to do a excellent job. If you have the old pieces that are still intact, you can use it as a pattern for the new material. I ended up ordering the vinyl by the yard that matches exactly the same grain and material. It gave me extra material that I could use on some worn windlace pieces that were done in vinyl. Ibsen '59 TR3A, '71 TR6 , '79 Spit ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Beecher To: 'list Triumph' Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 1:21 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Covering Kit I got my vinyl dash kit from TRF last week and got around this week to putting it on. First of all, the width of the vinyl was less than 8.5" in some place around the glove box area and this made for a VERY tight fit pulling over 1/8"-1/4" to wrap around as recommended. But my real problem came several hours after I finished when I notice that the vinyl was splitting in the corners of the gauge cluster opening. Two of the splits should be covered by the faceplate but one will not, I will probably try to section a small sliver of scrap material into the split to hide as best as I can. Before I try this again, are there any suggestion that the list can provide for a smoother application? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Fri Jan 16 17:49:27 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 19:49:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Garagemahall anyone? Message-ID: It's cold, in fact, it's damn cold most everywhere which tends to make the mind wander. A couple of years ago I put together photos on my website of people's garages where our fellow Triumph drivers wile away the time. Sometimes you could barely see the cars while others looked cleaner than most restaurants I've eaten in. So if you haven't contributed before or have an updated photo or just have a large mound under the snow where your garage used to be then feel free to add them to the collection. The "Garagemahall" photos from years past can be found at: http://www.ralittle2.com/garagemahall.html. Photos can be sent to this email address. Ashford Little '70 TR6 From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Jan 16 19:45:24 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 21:45:24 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Garagemahall anyone? Message-ID: It would be a good time to do it Ashford. My Triumph Coach House in the woods is buried by a foot or more of snow. I trudged out at lunch today just to fill one of the bird feeders for my overweight and spoiled Cardinals who were totally out of food and just flying around wondering if I would ever show up. Temperatures were -10 this morning and warmed up to zero this morning. So much for Global Worming! Darrell **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 16 21:06:55 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 20:06:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tire/Tube Q. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090117040655.CQVS4110.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > My point was about variation in grip between different > models within the same tire size. Even a 165R15 is plenty > grippy for a street-driven TR4 (IMHO), as long as you choose > a tire with a good compound, like the Coopers... too bad they > aren't made any more. Choose badly, and even a wide tire can > be downright dangerous. Nick, I understand your point, and don't disagree (even through there is a lot more to how a tire handles than just compound). My point is that all other things being equal, a low profile tire gives better performance (with modern tire designs). This means that the absolute best performing tires are low profile tires. Auto makers know this, and so modern high performance cars take low profile tires. High volume tire makers get to be high volume tire makers by making tires that lots of people will buy; not by making tires that very few people will buy. Alas, high performance tires that fit a stock TR2-4 rim fall into the latter category. Just one example, the Porsche 911 was introduced in 1965 wearing 185/70 tires. By 1970, it was wearing 195/60. By 1980, it's descendent SC model was wearing 215/60 in the rear (where most of the weight is). 1990 brought 225/50 and by 2000 they were up to 265/35 (!). BTW, I was able to get 225/55-15 tires onto my TR3A; and they made an amazing transformation in how well the car handled (along with a few other modifications). I was one of those guys that always thought the club runs were boringly slow; while the guys on skinny tires had white knuckles and complained about how fast we were going ! Randall From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net Fri Jan 16 21:39:45 2009 From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:39:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Garagemahall anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090117043946.CXOB13880.omta01.suddenlink.net@your-ze8cxvr8tt.suddenlink.net> At 08:45 PM 1/16/2009, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: >So >much for Global Worming! Wow! I think the weather has Darrell in a brain-freeze type situation. Ever notice how the biggest boffs are committed during the winter months? Joe Curry's fluifs? FT's occasional dust-ups. ( With all due regard and respect Fred) Appears to be a gaff of epic proportions. I'm laughing so hard I think I've cracked a rib. Jeffrey From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Jan 16 22:32:48 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 00:32:48 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Dash Covering Kit Message-ID: In a message dated 1/16/2009 1:22:02 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, bill_beecher at flash.net writes: I got my vinyl dash kit from TRF last week and got around this week to putting it on. First of all, the width of the vinyl was less than 8.5" in some place around the glove box area and this made for a VERY tight fit pulling over 1/8"-1/4" to wrap around as recommended. But my real problem came several hours after I finished when I notice that the vinyl was splitting in the corners of the gauge cluster opening. Two of the splits should be covered by the faceplate but one will not, I will probably try to section a small sliver of scrap material into the split to hide as best as I can. Before I try this again, are there any suggestion that the list can provide for a smoother application? Bill, I brought some material and had an upholstery shop stitch up that little sleeve where the steeringwheel goes, Way cheaper and I'm very happy with it. Mike Moore 59 TR3A Engineering Manager CL Moore & Associates, Inc. 17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill, California 95037 408-782-1272 fax 408-782-1372 **************Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's capital.(http://www.aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000027) From pcaffrey at ymail.com Fri Jan 16 23:03:39 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:03:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar Message-ID: <120704.82392.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Hi Everyone, Randall, you mention Coopers. Any thoughts on Hercules tires? I'm getting a restoration done on a TR4A, '67. Also, how many folks out there had a roll bar installed? Thinking about doing that, too. Pat Have a TR4A '67, getting a mild street cam, toyota 5 spd. conversion, 87mm pistons From darrellw at ipns.com Fri Jan 16 23:30:11 2009 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:30:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR sighting Message-ID: <0BBEF0CB-187A-483B-B594-25366A5EC318@ipns.com> Just got back from a performance of "Movin' Out" (a musical based on a bunch of Billy Joel songs), and the start of the show was a TR 250! I tried to find a picture on line, but all of the stock shots show a Mustang. Some one must have upgraded the props since then :-). -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 16 23:50:08 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:50:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: <120704.82392.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090117065009.NVOT16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Randall, you mention Coopers. That was actually Nick Wolf, not me. I was quoting part of his reply to my earlier reply. > Any thoughts on Hercules tires? Not from me, except that I don't see any 165-15 tires listed on their web site. > Also, how many folks out there had a roll bar installed? I don't. IMO any bar that doesn't tie into the frame at least 4 points (preferably 6) is only for looks and unlikely to be helpful in case of an actual rollover. And I've not been willing to hack into the car that much (and live with the encroachment on cockpit space) for a "real" roll bar. Randall From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sat Jan 17 06:34:22 2009 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:34:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] your post Message-ID: <649FEDDABA45489DBA257AB0763D20DF@randyPC> morning rick, HURRAH for you post. once i get my tr to ny from nc i'll be purchasing a fan elim kit from you, not a cheaper/bootlegged copy randy sandner From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 17 07:14:44 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 09:14:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: <120704.82392.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <120704.82392.qm@web59706.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200901170914.44465.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 17 January 2009 01:03:39 P Caffrey wrote: > Hi Everyone, > Randall, you mention Coopers. Any thoughts on Hercules tires? I'm getting > a restoration done on a TR4A, '67. Also, how many folks out there had a > roll bar installed? Thinking about doing that, too. > Pat > Have a TR4A '67, getting a mild street cam, toyota 5 spd. conversion, 87mm > pistons HI, I have Coopers on my 63 TR4 but when I got the tires I was told that they are now out of production. This was about 4 years ago. As far as a roll bar, I don't have one on either my 3 or 4 and no plans for the 6 but I have heard that if you install a roll bar, it will affect you insurance, and not in a + way. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 17 07:35:55 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 09:35:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Garagemahall anyone? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200901170935.55915.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 16 January 2009 19:49:27 Ashford Little wrote: > It's cold, in fact, it's damn cold most everywhere which tends to make > the mind wander. A couple of years ago I put together photos on my > website of people's garages where our fellow Triumph drivers wile away > the time. Sometimes you could barely see the cars while others looked > cleaner than most restaurants I've eaten in. So if you haven't > contributed before or have an updated photo or just have a large mound > under the snow where your garage used to be then feel free to add them > to the collection. The "Garagemahall" photos from years past can be > found at: http://www.ralittle2.com/garagemahall.html. >> _______________________________________________ > Photos can be sent to this email address. > > Ashford Little > '70 TR6 Ashford, Funny, the last time you sent out this email, I had just added a 63 TR4 project to the garage! Now you must have a spy in my neighborhood as I have now added a 72 TR6 project to the garage! I will try to get out in the garage today to send you an update, but the 3 is covered as well as the bikes but the 6 project is in the back, frame on one side and the body (on saw horses) on the other. Most parts are in the cellar. The 4 is at my moms garage as I don't have the room with the 6 in restoration. But it is still below zero outside so we will see. Bob From jdinnis at gmail.com Sat Jan 17 08:58:09 2009 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 09:58:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR sighting In-Reply-To: <0BBEF0CB-187A-483B-B594-25366A5EC318@ipns.com> References: <0BBEF0CB-187A-483B-B594-25366A5EC318@ipns.com> Message-ID: I think there are actually two or three traveling companies doing this show. It was the TR 250 when we saw the show in Seattle about five years ago. On Sat, Jan 17, 2009 at 12:30 AM, Darrell Walker wrote: > Just got back from a performance of "Movin' Out" (a musical based on a bunch > of Billy Joel songs), and the start of the show was a TR 250! I tried to > find a picture on line, but all of the stock shots show a Mustang. Some one > must have upgraded the props since then :-). > > > -- > Darrell Walker > 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L > Vancouver, WA, USA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From skip47 at clearwire.net Sat Jan 17 09:42:35 2009 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:42:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar References: <20090117065009.NVOT16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <49A5A28901F443C29F62CBE71CB51775@ZEUS> Randall wrote: IMO any bar that doesn't tie into the frame at least 4 points > (preferably 6) is only for looks and unlikely to be helpful in case of an > actual rollover. And I've not been willing to hack into the car that much > (and live with the encroachment on cockpit space) for a "real" roll bar. What isn't mentioned is the effect on frame stiffness, which is important to handling. The TR is a notable flexible flyer, and even a simple hoop attached at two points and without diagonal brace makes a big difference. My cousin raced his that way, even tested it in anger, and not only lived, but had the car in first gear ready to keep going after it stopped rolling! (They wouldn't let him continue...spoilsports.) The point here is what are one's priorities? If you value handling more than the loss of space, you might appreciate the improvement. Just make sure the thing is attached to the frame, not just bodywork, and don't test it unless it's built to present-day standards! Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 65 TR4A From darrellw at ipns.com Sat Jan 17 10:08:00 2009 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 09:08:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR sighting In-Reply-To: References: <0BBEF0CB-187A-483B-B594-25366A5EC318@ipns.com> Message-ID: <956E9466-6B5A-4CAB-98C2-5B59EF822650@ipns.com> Cool. There is a slight continuity error. The car is shown during "Scenes from an Italian Restaurant", where it says "Brenda and Eddie were still going steady in the summer of '75", which would fit with a beat up TR250. But to fit the show, then changed the line to '65 (before Eddie goes off to Vietnam). I could be a beat up TR4, I guess. They actually drove it around a bit on the stage, I assume it has been refit with an electric motor. -Darrell On Jan 17, 2009, at 7:58 AM, John Innis wrote: > I think there are actually two or three traveling companies doing this > show. It was the TR 250 when we saw the show in Seattle about five > years ago. > > On Sat, Jan 17, 2009 at 12:30 AM, Darrell Walker > wrote: >> Just got back from a performance of "Movin' Out" (a musical based >> on a bunch >> of Billy Joel songs), and the start of the show was a TR 250! I >> tried to >> find a picture on line, but all of the stock shots show a Mustang. >> Some one >> must have upgraded the props since then :-). >> >> >> -- >> Darrell Walker >> 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L >> Vancouver, WA, USA >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= From cm.sherman at verizon.net Sat Jan 17 10:13:33 2009 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 12:13:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] International TR Registry - update and poll Message-ID: Sorry to bomb the list, but I wanted make two brief announcements... UPDATE: I finally paid a Security specialist to have the website plugged up of all the holes (no more inappropriate listings). Please continue to enjoy the site for another year, having just renewed the hosting agreements. ACTION: Any interest in having me extend the website database to include other Triumph models or derivatives? How about Club listings ( http://www.trregistry.com/start/club/index.htm). I have no intension of duplicating any other existing website registry (e.g., GT6/Spitfire; Stag). Feel free to respond directly Corey Sherman From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net Sat Jan 17 11:27:28 2009 From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 13:27:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <6FED8D6F393C47F79B956A0207A23F94@FrederickLight> I am finally able to get back to my '60 TR3A restoration project. I am assembling the front suspension and am looking for a better diagram than what I have. I had taken some digital pics of the suspension before I took it apart but am not able to find them. Any one know where I could find them online or could someone send me a few of theirs? Thanks for any and all help Fred From rcrabbe at sympatico.ca Sat Jan 17 14:16:40 2009 From: rcrabbe at sympatico.ca (Richard Crabbe) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 16:16:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Message-ID: Good afternoon all I am trying to come up with a plan or idea to accommodate 2 small speakers on the rear deck of my TR6. Does anyone have any ideas or can steer me in the right direction. When I did the restoration I pre wired for this event Thanks Crabby 76 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 17 15:17:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 14:17:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: <49A5A28901F443C29F62CBE71CB51775@ZEUS> Message-ID: <20090117221746.VYYF93.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > What isn't mentioned is the effect on frame stiffness, which > is important to handling. The TR is a notable flexible > flyer, and even a simple hoop attached at two points and > without diagonal brace makes a big difference. Very true, although boxing and gusseting the frame can also help. Randall From robertgknapp at yahoo.ca Sat Jan 17 15:59:57 2009 From: robertgknapp at yahoo.ca (Robert Knapp) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 14:59:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling Message-ID: <623582.95979.qm@web110513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I have done a complete body off restoration of my TR6 including engine rebuild radiator rebuild etc. Since completion I have driven the car about 600 miles. On very hot days 85 to 90F (that is hot here in Toronto) idling in traffic the temperature guage gets to about the three quarter mark but has never boiled over also at highway speed during this hot weather the guage runs above the centre mark. I am considering my options which I think would be to instal an electric fan on the existing radiator (infront of or on the engine side of the radiator) or an aluminum radiator with or without an electric fan. I would really appreciate comments from the list regarding this issue. Thxs, Bob Knapp. __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Jan 17 16:33:50 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 18:33:50 EST Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling Message-ID: In a message dated 1/17/2009 6:00:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, robertgknapp at yahoo.ca writes: I have done a complete body off restoration of my TR6 including engine rebuild radiator rebuild etc. Since completion I have driven the car about 600 miles. On very hot days 85 to 90F (that is hot here in Toronto) idling in traffic the temperature guage gets to about the three quarter mark but has never boiled over also at highway speed during this hot weather the guage runs above the centre mark. I am considering my options which I think would be to instal an electric fan on the existing radiator (infront of or on the engine side of the radiator) or an aluminum radiator with or without an electric fan. I would really appreciate comments from the list regarding this issue. ==AM== I'm not sure you have a problem. First, I'd make sure your temp. gauge is reasonably accurate (relatively speaking) by using a cooking (or infrared) thermometer to see what 3/4 on the gauge translates to. But even that 3/4 mark, if only in very hot traffic idling, doesn't really sound like cause for concern. And you might even be able to go with a slightly cooler thermostat. (Of course, if your TR6 proves as fussy as my Herald, you'll find you're changing thermostats at least twice a year!) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From Harrymague at aol.com Sat Jan 17 16:43:07 2009 From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 18:43:07 EST Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling Message-ID: Hey, I have a 74 TR6. In my rebuild I put an aluminum radiator plus an oiler cooler. I have the conventional red fan. Since those two mods, I have not had any of the cooling problems like you have. In fact, I had replace the thermostat with the cooler one and I am thinking of going back to the standard. FWIW Harry Mague 74 TR6 Beavercreek, OH In a message dated 1/17/2009 6:00:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, robertgknapp at yahoo.ca writes: I have done a complete body off restoration of my TR6 including engine rebuild radiator rebuild etc. Since completion I have driven the car about 600 miles. On very hot days 85 to 90F (that is hot here in Toronto) idling in traffic the temperature guage gets to about the three quarter mark but has never boiled over also at highway speed during this hot weather the guage runs above the centre mark. I am considering my options which I think would be to instal an electric fan on the existing radiator (infront of or on the engine side of the radiator) or an aluminum radiator with or without an electric fan. I would really appreciate comments from the list regarding this issue. Thxs, Bob Knapp. __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as harrymague at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Jan 17 16:51:56 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 18:51:56 EST Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling Message-ID: In a message dated 1/17/2009 6:00:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, robertgknapp at yahoo.ca writes: I would really appreciate comments from the list regarding this issue. Thxs, Bob Knapp. __________________________________________________________________ Bob, I'm with Andy. I am not sure you have a problem at all. It would boil over and spit puke if you had a real problem. My .02 Darrell **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Jan 17 17:19:33 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 00:19:33 -0000 Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling References: <623582.95979.qm@web110513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <80C7DD6D467C43B5BA6ACF32EE1ED106@Bevan> Robert It's not at all unusual for Triumph engines to run hotter than others - even in the same model spec. I drove many of them when new-ish in temperatures you mention and some ran hotter or cooler than others. This issue was a perennial problem in Coventry and many engineers wanted the six cylinder unit lengthened to delete the siamese between cylinders 3 and 4 and for larger coolant galleries. Engineering vetoed it many times on the grounds of cost, added weight and added length. From memory, this move would have made the block about 3 inches longer. As Andy Mace suggested, check the actual temperature of the coolant when the 'stat opens. Other reasons discovered long ago by thousands of service departments can be small manufacturing variances in the wiring inside the gauge or higher/lower resistances in the voltage stabiliser. I've known cars give a different (lower) reading by simply swapping gauges and/or stabilisers and doing nothing else. Sad fact is the temperature gauge itself never was of the highest quality and that's why I prefer instruments with capillary tubes and specific readings on the dial face. Even then, those are mass-produced as well, so cannot be depended on to give the degree of accuracy many of us would like. Of course, if you're really hot, you can always use the heater blower as an additional cooling medium :) Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Knapp" To: Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 10:59 PM Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling >I have done a complete body off restoration of my TR6 including engine rebuild > radiator rebuild etc. Since completion I have driven the car about 600 > miles. On very hot days 85 to 90F (that is hot here in Toronto) idling in > traffic the temperature guage gets to about the three quarter mark but has > never boiled over also at highway speed during this hot weather the guage runs > above the centre mark. I am considering my options which I think would be to > instal an electric fan on the existing radiator (infront of or on the engine > side of the radiator) or an aluminum radiator with or without an electric > fan. I would really appreciate comments from the list regarding this issue. > Thxs, Bob Knapp. > __________________________________________________________________ > Looking for > the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! > > http://www.flickr.com/gift/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 17 18:39:49 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 20:39:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <04058E8DCC954AE68FEA5A16B2B55F8B@BOBSNEWPC> Crabby.... I know one guy who built a false panel on his rear deck and then covered it in a "matching" vinyl. The false panel was positioned in front of the real panel and you had to look twice to even see it. That gave him the few extra inches he needed to install the speakers without cutting holes in his stock rear deck panel. I'm considering the same set up. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Crabbe Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 4:17 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Good afternoon all I am trying to come up with a plan or idea to accommodate 2 small speakers on the rear deck of my TR6. Does anyone have any ideas or can steer me in the right direction. When I did the restoration I pre wired for this event Thanks Crabby 76 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sat Jan 17 20:11:34 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 22:11:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors again... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49729DE6.90000@earthlink.net> Thanks. I'll give Scott a call next week. Joe TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 1/16/2009 3:55:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > ElangTR4 at aol.com writes: > > > Scott is a good source for all things Triumph and a good guy too. > NFI and all that... > Eric L. > 71 TR6 > > > > I second that one. Scott has provided countless items for my Triumphs. He > is a "Breaker" as well as a distributor of new parts from various sources > including the UK. He is very knowledgeable and I just wish he was a "Club Type > Guy" so I could recruit him for Concours Judging. I go to school every time I > visit his place. He gets me the stuff I want as a sometimes originality > freak. Rare original used spares can be had at reasonable prices @ Team Triumph, > NFI. > > BTW, I got burned on ebay by a purchasing a supposed NOS set of sun visors. > They had the flat flap being discussed and are junk as compared to the > originals. New Old Repro Stock, Dude! > > Darrell > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De > cemailfooterNO62) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From nwolf at u.washington.edu Sat Jan 17 21:24:26 2009 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 20:24:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar Message-ID: Hi Pat >you mention Coopers. Any thoughts on Hercules tires? The Cooper Sportmaster GLT is a great tire, if you can find it (out of production). The same tire was also sold under the Mastercraft name, but of course that model disappeared at the same time. Coker used to sell a "Lexington" 165R15 which looked very similar and might have come from the same factory, but that's gone now too. Dunno about Hercules. As far as I know, the only 165R15's left are Nankangs, Nexens, Klebers, Vredesteins, and various offerings at Coker (whitewalls, Michelin reproductions, etc). -Nick '62-ish TR4 From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sat Jan 17 21:45:44 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 20:45:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <835571.28111.qm@web59707.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Nick, Thanks a million for the reply. You and the List have been very generous with advice -- much appreciated by me. Pat --- On Sun, 1/18/09, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: From: nwolf at u.washington.edu Subject: Re: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar To: pcaffrey at ymail.com, pcaffrey at ymail.com, yellowtr at adelphia.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, January 18, 2009, 4:24 AM Hi Pat > you mention Coopers. Any thoughts on Hercules tires? The Cooper Sportmaster GLT is a great tire, if you can find it (out of production). The same tire was also sold under the Mastercraft name, but of course that model disappeared at the same time. Coker used to sell a "Lexington" 165R15 which looked very similar and might have come from the same factory, but that's gone now too. Dunno about Hercules. As far as I know, the only 165R15's left are Nankangs, Nexens, Klebers, Vredesteins, and various offerings at Coker (whitewalls, Michelin reproductions, etc). -Nick '62-ish TR4 From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sun Jan 18 05:37:14 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 05:37:14 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090118053714.18f719e8@pop.west.cox.net> Depends on what you actually want to do. I have a cabinet I built that spans the entire rear shelf, ported, with two 8 inch speakers, two three inch speakers, and two tiny dome tweeters. The speakers are angled upwards to face the driver/passenger and the entire cabinet front is covered with grill cloth. You have to really look to see that anything is there, unless of course you know Triumphs. It takes up all the shelf space though. However I can hear anything I want, at any speed - And I built one for all my Triumphs - These are installed in Spitfire/GT6's but the TR has a similar shelf, just slightly longer - ********************************************************************** At 04:16 PM 1/17/2009 -0500, you wrote: >Good afternoon all >I am trying to come up with a plan or idea to accommodate 2 small speakers >on the rear deck of my TR6. >Does anyone have any ideas or can steer me in the right direction. When I >did the restoration I pre wired for this event >Thanks >Crabby Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sun Jan 18 10:33:26 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 12:33:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling In-Reply-To: <623582.95979.qm@web110513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <623582.95979.qm@web110513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: As others have mentioned check the gauge first. If you still have issues then go aluminum. I now have a Wizard radiator and the electric fan rarely even comes on, and that's in Atlanta's heat. Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Jan 17, 2009, at 5:59 PM, Robert Knapp wrote: > I have done a complete body off restoration of my TR6 including > engine rebuild > radiator rebuild etc. Since completion I have driven the car about > 600 > miles. On very hot days 85 to 90F (that is hot here in Toronto) > idling in > traffic the temperature guage gets to about the three quarter mark > but has > never boiled over also at highway speed during this hot weather the > guage runs > above the centre mark. I am considering my options which I think > would be to > instal an electric fan on the existing radiator (infront of or on > the engine > side of the radiator) or an aluminum radiator with or without an > electric > fan. I would really appreciate comments from the list regarding this > issue. > Thxs, Bob Knapp. > __________________________________________________________________ From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net Sun Jan 18 12:09:54 2009 From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 14:09:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Suspension bolt Message-ID: <84EA252698DB4CEDAC10B02EDEFF698B@FrederickLight> Any body know what size bolt is Item 44 on page 40 of the Moss parts book. They are N/A from them. Also, I need rear leafsprings and they don't have them either. They are on backorder for a few months now. Victoria British doesn't have them either. Thanks Fred TS 57038 L From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Jan 18 15:33:56 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 14:33:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar References: Message-ID: <000a01c979bc$d9b17cb0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> How about these guys for tires. http://www.dbtires.com/index.htm Diamond Back Classic Radials Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11560 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sun Jan 18 13:50:50 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 12:50:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: <000a01c979bc$d9b17cb0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <375700.44533.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> The ultra low blackwall smoothy looks nice -- probably feel every pebble on the road, though. --- On Sun, 1/18/09, Bob wrote: From: Bob Subject: Re: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, January 18, 2009, 10:33 PM How about these guys for tires. http://www.dbtires.com/index.htm Diamond Back Classic Radials Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11560 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From lherault at bu.edu Sun Jan 18 14:02:44 2009 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 16:02:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Message-ID: I've owned my '73 TR6 since 1979 but sometime thereafter I bought a couple of Pioneer (I think they were. I'm not going out to a cold garage to find out)speakers in black enclosures and stuffed them under the front dash area for the radio. When I upgraded the radio I got two more of them, ran wires to the back and terminated each channel in a plug with corresponding jacks on the ends of the speaker wires. I glued Velcro to the bottom of the speakers and to the carpet, black to match the carpet. I can hear the radio OK. I'm not out to have a thumping, neighbor-annoying, selfish, look at me, sound system so they work. I can dismount them and stick them in the trunk when I park in a less secure area or need more space behind the seats. Ron L From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sun Jan 18 16:17:52 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 18:17:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] John Horton Accel. Bushing Improvement --- photo References: <876274.58461.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <470B1601D9D34E31B2453A12514804EC@D1TG6Y71> <87291.45482.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <11DD761C79ED4830961E138C0637C9A7@D1TG6Y71> You can view John's accelerator bushing photo by clicking on the following link. The dimensions he used are as follows: ID .0380 Bushing OD is 0.670 , Bushing length 0.500 shoulder OD 0.900 shoulder length 0.250. Slit lengthwise. http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Bush_HORTON.jpg ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: johnehorton at yahoo.com To: Tony Gordon Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 9:16 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Picture Coming your way. I installed this "kit' today from scratch. Took about 25 minutes and my ham hands had trouble getting the small Allen screws into the collar. Sure tightened up the throttle. I took out the spring washer on the passenger side because it is no longer needed. The setting is done by positioning the collar to hold the bushing in the drivers side. Also the cotter pin is not needed. John H. From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 18 17:24:24 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 17:24:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Suspension bolt In-Reply-To: <84EA252698DB4CEDAC10B02EDEFF698B@FrederickLight> References: <84EA252698DB4CEDAC10B02EDEFF698B@FrederickLight> Message-ID: <07F2E20966D24E079D84D509E9FED39D@sniffer> That shows to be a 3/8" x 2-3/4" UNF. I don't see anything to indicate a unique hardness but if I were at the store I would probably go with a #7 or better. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frederick M Light Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 12:10 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Suspension bolt Any body know what size bolt is Item 44 on page 40 of the Moss parts book. They are N/A from them. Also, I need rear leafsprings and they don't have them either. They are on backorder for a few months now. Victoria British doesn't have them either. Thanks Fred TS 57038 L This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.9/1900 - Release Date: 1/18/2009 12:11 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 18 19:32:44 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 21:32:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Garagemahall anyone? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49739FFC.31028.1CDF8A@localhost> On 16 Jan 2009 at 19:49, Ashford Little wrote: > It's cold, in fact, it's damn cold most everywhere... Sometimes you > could barely see the cars while others looked cleaner than most > restaurants I've eaten in. Oooh, I am *so* envious of all the wonderful space in some of those palaces. Ashford, I will be sending you a few pics of the Spitfire's long winter's nap and the current workspace wherein sleeps the GT6 and some of its internals. Ahem, some of us take pride in doing so much with so little! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Jan 18 19:33:49 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 19:33:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0901181833h5d5fd02br75341328ad2f2b79@mail.gmail.com> On 1/17/09, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: >... As far as I know, the only 165R15's left are > Nankangs, Nexens, Klebers, Vredesteins, and various offerings at Coker > (whitewalls, Michelin reproductions, etc). I think there are also some private labels out there such as Discount Tire's 'Arizonian' -- bound to be in demand in 2 weeks when the Cardinals win the big game. Geo From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sun Jan 18 19:50:57 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 18:50:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901181833h5d5fd02br75341328ad2f2b79@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <903203.12397.qm@web59712.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Thanks, Geo, but it's the Steelers all the way, I hope -- close game....even though I grew up on the West coast. Pat --- On Mon, 1/19/09, Geo Hahn wrote: From: Geo Hahn Subject: Re: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, January 19, 2009, 2:33 AM On 1/17/09, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: >... As far as I know, the only 165R15's left are > Nankangs, Nexens, Klebers, Vredesteins, and various offerings at Coker > (whitewalls, Michelin reproductions, etc). I think there are also some private labels out there such as Discount Tire's 'Arizonian' -- bound to be in demand in 2 weeks when the Cardinals win the big game. Geo This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Jan 18 20:00:30 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 22:00:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] wires for top/ or side mount dizzy caps? Message-ID: <02cf01c979e2$1790dfb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hi group! The following NOS Green Spark Plug wires on Ebay, item #200300583679, has these wires pictured fitting a 'top terminal(?)' distributor cap. Is it a 'messy' conversion to get them to fit an original NOS distributor cap having 'side terminals?' Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.8 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 951 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Mon Jan 19 05:59:16 2009 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 07:59:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have Hercules G2000 H tires on my MGBGT and quite like them (put them on last summer). They are quiet and worked well in the one downpour I got caught in last summer. Mark From: P Caffrey Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar Hi Everyone, Randall, you mention Coopers. Any thoughts on Hercules tires? From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jan 19 06:35:01 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 08:35:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Garagemahall anyone? In-Reply-To: <49739FFC.31028.1CDF8A@localhost> References: <49739FFC.31028.1CDF8A@localhost> Message-ID: <200901190835.01682.yellowtr@adelphia.net> I must reply to the comment Ashford left on the Garagemahall web page about my less than "organized" garage. At this time, as you may be able to see, I have the 72 TR6 project with the frame on one side and the body on the other with the engine tucked away on a stand just in front of the front apron. But what the photos don't show is a covered TR3, 2 motorcycles, snowblower, snow shovels, roof snow rake and 2 boxes containing the rear suspension! Now this garage is a funny design sort of L shaped but it has produced a 58 TR3A, a 63 TR4 and a 74 T140V complete restorations! Also the garage has a 60 gal 5HP upright compressor, a oxy-acelt torch setup and a cabinet sand blaster. When spring arrives, things will get a bit more organized, but in winter I tend to cram as much "stuff" as I can in odd places so I have some room to work on the project. As this project moves along, I will be talking to a home improvements contractor to scope out the expansion of the current garage. I will need to make it large enough to hold the 3 cars + 2 motorcycles. I wish I had the property size just to build a new pole barn but I don't! Now if I really wanted the list to see a real mess, I would have taken a shot of the garage attic. When I go searching for a part up there it is always a test of my memory and patience! Bob From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jan 19 13:31:09 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 20:31:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Grease Fitting In-Reply-To: <375700.44533.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <132257652.3215401232397069035.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Temperature in New Hampshire hiked to 31 degrees today, balmy wrenching weather! Having the front end on blocks, finished with the silentbloc conversion, am attending to greasing joints. The original grease fitting on the upper fulcrum was a two part piece.B One part came out in my grease gun, not the first time.B So, thinking to replace it, I tried to unscrew it. Imagine my surprise? The plate that it screws into turned with the screw. Anybody encounter this?B ...have a trick for getting this thing out? Keeping this short because there's still time to don the swim trunks and do some sunbathing. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Jan 19 17:51:01 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 16:51:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] ID fuel pump '70 TR6 References: Message-ID: <009901c97a99$2a4045d0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello List, Two questions please? 1.)Fuel pump in the car has a Logo on the side, not sure what it says. Under the Logo it says "Made in Italy" car runs well, pump works fine. 2.)I have a spare unknown fuel pump..... Looking down from top it says AC Type U Made in England. Both pumps are exectly the same with priming lever. Should the the Type U work? (needs rebuild) Is either one of these original? Thank you. Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11570 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Jan 19 16:00:45 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 17:00:45 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] ID fuel pump '70 TR6 Message-ID: <1205898764.50220941232406045129.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Bob, I know someone on the list will correct me, but I just pulled off my fuel pump for a rebuild. 1.) TRF is selling a fuel pump made in Italy with the priming pump. It is probably one of those. 2.) The AC Type U Made in England is an original. That was what mine said on my 72 TR6. Yes it should work after a rebuild, TRF had a sale last week and is doing mine for $90, normally $99.99. Hope this helps. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA On Mon, Jan 19, 2009 at 7:51 PM, Bob wrote: > Hello List, Two questions please? 1.)Fuel pump in the car has a Logo on the side, not sure what it says. B B B Under the Logo it says "Made in Italy"B car runs well, pump works fine. 2.)I have a spare unknown fuel pump..... B B B Looking down from top it says AC Type U Made in England. B B B Both pumps are exectly the same with priming lever. Should the the Type U work? (needs rebuild) Is either one of these original? Thank you. Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11570 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ B This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org B Triumphs at autox.team.net B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs B You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net B http://www.team.net/archive B From elliottr at rmi.net Mon Jan 19 16:16:23 2009 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 17:16:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Speedometer gauge rim and Spitfire wiper arms Message-ID: <497509C7.2070209@rmi.net> Hi Everyone, I had my wife's TR250 tach rebuilt. I just installed it and now it is apparent that I need to repaint the rims on the speedometer gauge. Any ideas on whether it is gloss, semi-gloss or something else? Also, I have been considering powder coating the windshield wiper arms on my Spitfire. I have repainted them black a couple of times, but it never lasts very long. Can I powder coat them? Any thing special I need to consider? Thanks, Roger Elliott From tr3a at comcast.net Mon Jan 19 17:13:16 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:13:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] MIG Welders Message-ID: <4975171C.2000508@comcast.net> Hi guys. Awhile back, I bought a used Craftsman 110v, 75a (max) MIG. Also bought the Argon/CO2 cylinder and some .023 solid wire. I'm trying to use it for 20 ga mild steel for bodywork on my TR restoration project. If I try anything other than a tack weld, burn through is a distinct possibility...and ugly, sloppy welds are a given! And yes, the polarity is correct. So, since MIG is supposed to be relatively simple to learn - and I can't seem to - I have come to the conclusion that the problem is with the welder, not the operator. Could be wrong, but I'm working on my self esteem. :^) In any case, I am giving up...time for a new welder. I have narrowed it down to the Millermatic 180, the new (available soon) dual voltage Miller 211or perhaps the Hobart Handler 187 or 210. I know I can get by with less amperage (and less $$$) for sheet metal work, but if I manage to learn how to use it, I figured more might be better than less for whatever else I dream up. Miller is supposed to be top shelf and Hobart is basically the "consumer line" (separate companies, but both owned by Illinois Tool Works). I gather that both produce excellent results, but that the Millers are better made machines. I was wondering what the rest of you use for your restoration projects (or whatever). If you had to do it again, would you buy the same unit? Do you have other brands/models that you like? I'm leaning towards the MM180, in large part because it's available locally from a real welding supply store. Around here, the Hobart is sold only by Tractor Supply. I would really appreciate your comments or recommendations. Thanks very much!! Fergie 1959 TR3A TS53990L(0) From skip47 at clearwire.net Mon Jan 19 17:49:36 2009 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 16:49:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] MIG Welders References: <4975171C.2000508@comcast.net> Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Ferguson" Subject: [TR] MIG Welders I have come to the conclusion that the problem is with the welder, not the operator. Could be wrong, but I'm working on my self esteem. :^) You're right! MIG has to have a happy combination of heat and wire feed speed. The cheaper units just don't regulate these parameters as well as they should. Spend a little more, and your effort will be less and the welds will be better. I went for a Lincoln TIG unit, but see the EBAY comparison: http://reviews.ebay.com/BUYING-A-MIG-WELDER_W0QQugidZ10000000001233749?ssPageName=BUYGD:CAT:-1:LISTINGS:2 Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 65 TR4A From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jan 19 18:10:12 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 20:10:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Grease Fitting In-Reply-To: <132257652.3215401232397069035.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <375700.44533.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4974DE24.13365.4F7AD22@localhost> On 19 Jan 2009 at 20:31, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > One part came out in my grease gun, not the first time... > The plate that it screws into turned with the screw. > Anybody encounter this?B ...have a trick for getting this thing > out? You need a better grease gun, Terry. The one you have is far too needy. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mdesenberg at comcast.net Mon Jan 19 18:45:58 2009 From: mdesenberg at comcast.net (mdesenberg at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 01:45:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling Message-ID: <50280668.3565531232415958050.JavaMail.root@sz0111a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Bob, Are you using a distributor with a vacuum retard hooked up, if so, this can make it run hot at idle, mine did. Try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum retard line and then set the timing to 10 BTDC. Good luck I have done a complete body off restoration of my TR6 including engine rebuild radiator rebuild etc. Since completion I have driven the car about 600 miles. On very hot days 85 to 90F (that is hot here in Toronto) idling in traffic the temperature guage gets to about the three quarter mark but has never boiled over also at highway speed during this hot weather the guage runs above the centre mark. I am considering my options which I think would be to instal an electric fan on the existing radiator (infront of or on the engine side of the radiator) or an aluminum radiator with or without an electric fan. I would really appreciate comments from the list regarding this issue. Thxs, Bob Knapp. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 19 22:58:43 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 21:58:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Grease Fitting In-Reply-To: <132257652.3215401232397069035.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090120055844.NOUM93.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > The original grease fitting on the upper fulcrum Are you perchance talking about the ball joint? The upper fulcrum pins had no grease fittings originally. > Anybody encounter this?B ...have a trick for getting this thing out? I have seen it with an upper ball joint ... I just replaced the joint. As a defective consumable, it just didn't seem worth trying to repair it. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 19 23:28:24 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 22:28:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] wires for top/ or side mount dizzy caps? In-Reply-To: <02cf01c979e2$1790dfb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20090120062824.MMNG28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Is it a 'messy' conversion to > get them to fit an original NOS distributor cap having 'side > terminals?' Not messy, but unreliable, IMO. Those are "carbon core" wires; and my experience has been that the carbon will burn out around where the pointed setscrews in the original TR3 cap penetrate the conductor. The resulting high resistance leads to poor running and eventually misfire. But you might have better luck than I did. To do the "conversion", just cut the wire to the appropriate length with a knife or heavy scissors. Loosen the setscrew, insert the wire into the cap and tighten the screw. But again IMO, if you want to run carbon core wires, it would be better to install a cap with push-on terminals, like from an MGB. For example, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250359678462 Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 19 23:36:03 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 22:36:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] Suspension bolt In-Reply-To: <84EA252698DB4CEDAC10B02EDEFF698B@FrederickLight> Message-ID: <20090120063603.PVIQ16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Any body know what size bolt is Item 44 on page 40 of the > Moss parts book. Item 44 of page 40 of the Moss book I have handy isn't a bolt ... > Also, I need rear leafsprings and they don't have them > either. They are on > backorder for a few months now. Victoria British doesn't > have them either. Well, the other "Big 3" has them listed on the website. You might give them a call. Randall From maya2blue at juno.com Tue Jan 20 10:55:43 2009 From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 17:55:43 GMT Subject: [TR] how to use Hylomar?? Message-ID: <20090120.115543.26981.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com> Okay - dumb question here! I am using Hylomar Universal Blue (tube) on a gasket - Do I put the Hylomar on both sides of the gasket and on the metal on both sides? Or ??? Many thanks! Harve Harve Thorn NASS # 79 ____________________________________________________________ Purify your water with professional water treatment. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2uXsrgSioELLpx4GAiYTJYovlN4 5H2UfiyfJqMOqQXCa6VL/ From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Jan 20 11:55:02 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 12:55:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] how to use Hylomar?? References: <20090120.115543.26981.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: You don't need much. Just make sure it's on the gasket smoothly, or just on the metal if the gasket is too thin to handle easily. It's easier to do the gasket, and that gets just a little more into the joint - thick gaskets will soak up a (very) little bit of the Hylomar. You can wipe off whatever squeezes out any time - it will stay soft for years. Karl > Okay - dumb question here! > > I am using Hylomar Universal Blue (tube) on a gasket - > > Do I put the Hylomar on both sides of the gasket and on the metal on both > sides? > > Or ??? > > Many thanks! > > Harve > > Harve Thorn > NASS # 79 From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Jan 20 12:02:55 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 14:02:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] >>NASS how to use Hylomar?? References: <20090120.115543.26981.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <001201c97b31$b5ba9e10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> You don't it with a gasket, you use it instead of a gasket. Hylomar doesn't dry and stick. Using it with a gasket results in the gasket not being held in place, and the gasket much more easily can be blown out. >From the technical data sheet: "Hylomar Universal Blue should be applied to clean dry surfaces. Apply a thin film or bead to one or both surfaces. Once applied, sufficient time should be allowed for the solvent to evaporate. Unlimited assembly time allows precise alignment of joints to be made. Due to the nature of the compound, fasteners may be required to be re-tightened to the correct torque." http://www.hylomar-usa.com/_resources/_pdf/Hylomar_Univ_Data.pdf From dkspence at telus.net Tue Jan 20 12:06:04 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 12:06:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] spi tfire wipers Message-ID: <42087C01-5DE3-4E48-A4E0-1ED3FDAE51A1@telus.net> Use an etching primer then paint. Make sure it has been cleaned thoroughly before using the primer. From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Jan 20 12:17:28 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 13:17:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] >>NASS how to use Hylomar?? References: <20090120.115543.26981.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com> <001201c97b31$b5ba9e10$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <872AF76E373E4906B5914641F2054EAC@KARL> The same data sheet goes on to say that "...it can also be used for the coating [sic] for pre-formed gaskets..." However, you definitely want to use it sparingly. If a gasket is under very high pressure, blowing out may indeed be a concern, but for most of what you'd use it on in a TR engine, you can use it without worry. The good side of this is that it usually prevents the gasket sticking so hard you can't disassemble it again. In a valve cover, etc, you can usually reuse the gasket after adjustments, etc. Just remember that if you use it with a gasket, you're trying to improve the seal of the gasket, not gluing things together. Only takes a little. Karl > You don't it with a gasket, you use it instead of a gasket. > > Hylomar doesn't dry and stick. Using it with a gasket results in the > gasket > not being held in place, and the gasket much more easily can be blown out. > > >>From the technical data sheet: > > "Hylomar Universal Blue should be applied to clean dry surfaces. Apply a > thin > film or bead to one or > both surfaces. Once applied, sufficient time should be allowed for the > solvent > to evaporate. Unlimited > > assembly time allows precise alignment of joints to be made. Due to the > nature > of the compound, > > fasteners may be required to be re-tightened to the correct torque." > > http://www.hylomar-usa.com/_resources/_pdf/Hylomar_Univ_Data.pdf > _______________________________________________ From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Jan 20 12:26:58 2009 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 11:26:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] MIG Welders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I can attest to the Miller products - great welders! I've had my Miller 135 for years and it's done everything I've wanted it to. After using a Sears stick welder I bought in High School (30 years ago) using a wire feed gun and no splatter is pure pleasure! The 135 is on the lower (maybe even the lowest) end of Miller's welders, but it far exceeded my expectations. There is some trial and error set up required when welding thinner gauge metal, like sheet, but I've found that if you spot weld and do short stitches it works well. Also, if you're having burn thru problems, try backing the weld area with copper (I use a flattened copper pipe) to dissipate the heat. Works well for filling in pin holes too as the weld doesn't stick to the copper. My ONLY regret is that I didn't get a welder I could use a spool gun on. This would have expanded the use of the machine. When looking at a MIG welder, see if it can take a spool gun and buy it with the machine - you'll be happy you did! Brian 1967 TR4A (waiting for spring!) ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:13:16 -0500 From: Michael Ferguson Subject: [TR] MIG Welders To: triumphs Message-ID: <4975171C.2000508 at comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Hi guys. Awhile back, I bought a used Craftsman 110v, 75a (max) MIG. Also bought the Argon/CO2 cylinder and some .023 solid wire. I'm trying to use it for 20 ga mild steel for bodywork on my TR restoration project. If I try anything other than a tack weld, burn through is a distinct possibility...and ugly, sloppy welds are a given! And yes, the polarity is correct. So, since MIG is supposed to be relatively simple to learn - and I can't seem to - I have come to the conclusion that the problem is with the welder, not the operator. Could be wrong, but I'm working on my self esteem. :^) In any case, I am giving up...time for a new welder. I have narrowed it down to the Millermatic 180, the new (available soon) dual voltage Miller 211or perhaps the Hobart Handler 187 or 210. I know I can get by with less amperage (and less $$$) for sheet metal work, but if I manage to learn how to use it, I figured more might be better than less for whatever else I dream up. Miller is supposed to be top shelf and Hobart is basically the "consumer line" (separate companies, but both owned by Illinois Tool Works). I gather that both produce excellent results, but that the Millers are better made machines. I was wondering what the rest of you use for your restoration projects (or whatever). If you had to do it again, would you buy the same unit? Do you have other brands/models that you like? I'm leaning towards the MM180, in large part because it's available locally from a real welding supply store. Around here, the Hobart is sold only by Tractor Supply. I would really appreciate your comments or recommendations. Thanks very much!! Fergie 1959 TR3A TS53990L(0) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 20 12:57:35 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 11:57:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] how to use Hylomar?? In-Reply-To: <20090120.115543.26981.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com> References: <20090120.115543.26981.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <188c01c97b39$57735ba0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Do I put the Hylomar on both sides of the gasket and on the metal on both > sides? I generally just put it on both sides of the gasket. Kind of messy, especially when doing the second side; but that's what I do. Can't think of a single instance ever, where I've had a new gasket coated with Hylomar blow out. And the very few leaks I've had with Hylomar have all been traced to things like warped surfaces or broken gaskets or bolts that were too long/distorted or a leak somewhere entirely different. But there are some places where Hylomar isn't appropriate IMO, like head gaskets and tapered threads. Randall From aribert at c3net.net Tue Jan 20 13:28:52 2009 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 15:28:52 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] MIG Welders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <88f1a2b3393779e7137e27afc522152a.squirrel@server6.glis.net> I have a Miller 125 AC buzzbox (50A, 220V), a Century 135 MIG (20A, 110) and oxy-acetylene. I really wish that I had a TIG!!! I just can not justify spending $1,500+. I would strongly suggest that you buy the welder from the welding supply store with part of the purchase deal being that they demo the unit for you. You bring in a few sample coupons of various gages that you want to be able to weld. Have them dial in the machine, do a sample weld, let you do a sample weld and write down the welder settings for each sample before moving on to the next set of coupons. This way you have a baseline for what worked for the experienced welder. Personally, I like MIG the least. I find that I have trouble dialing in the correct wire feed and current to get both the sizzle sound and the resulting good looking weld. Also, the only cold welds (welds with no penetration) that I have had fail were MIG. The MIG's only benefit is that it is 110V and portable - although at a 20% duty cycle. > Hi guys. Awhile back, I bought a used Craftsman 110v, 75a (max) MIG. > Also bought the Argon/CO2 cylinder and some .023 solid wire. I'm trying > to use it for 20 ga mild steel for bodywork on my TR restoration > project. If I try anything other than a tack weld, burn through is a > distinct possibility...and ugly, sloppy welds are a given! And yes, the > polarity is correct. So, since MIG is supposed to be relatively simple > to learn - and I can't seem to - I have come to the conclusion that the > problem is with the welder, not the operator. Could be wrong, but I'm > working on my self esteem. :^) > > In any case, I am giving up...time for a new welder. I have narrowed it > down to the Millermatic 180, the new (available soon) dual voltage > Miller 211or perhaps the Hobart Handler 187 or 210. I was wondering what the rest of you use for your > restoration projects (or whatever). If you had to do it again, would you > buy the same unit? Do you have other brands/models that you like? > > I'm leaning towards the MM180, in large part because it's available > locally from a real welding supply store. > > Fergie > 1959 TR3A TS53990L(0) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 20 16:02:21 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 15:02:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tires/Roll Bar In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000c01c97b53$2a335900$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The Cooper Sportmaster GLT is a great tire, if you can find it (out of > production). Hopefully this is old news to all, but JIC someone didn't get the word: Tires get 'old' even sitting on the shelf. Opinions vary as to how old is "too old", but all the major players seem to agree that you should never drive on tires that are more than 10 years old. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=138 So if you do find a set of Sportmaster GLT tires on someone's shelf, be sure to ask how old they are (or better yet, check the date code on the sidewall yourself). http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11 I've had several failures myself that I feel were due to using old tires. Some of them were uneventful (first time it just felt like the tire had gone flat, tho it was still at 30 psi); but on the Stag the old tire turned into a giant flap wheel and flayed both paint and metal off the fender, in the time it took me to slow down and pull over. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 20 16:07:43 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 15:07:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1971 TR6 Cooling In-Reply-To: <80C7DD6D467C43B5BA6ACF32EE1ED106@Bevan> References: <623582.95979.qm@web110513.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <80C7DD6D467C43B5BA6ACF32EE1ED106@Bevan> Message-ID: <000d01c97b53$e6b73c40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Sad fact is the temperature gauge itself never was of the highest > quality Just to emphasize Jonmac's point, I found that one of the gauges from my 71 Stag was so poorly made that just setting it down on the bench would alter it's calibration! The internal adjustment arms are only held from moving by friction against a cardboard piece, and this one was loose enough that the slightest vibration could move it. It also appears that many vendors are selling new senders that do not match the original ones. There were something like 6 different numbers originally, that apparently varied only by specific resistance at a certain temperature; and they have all been superseded to the same number. Randall From stantr6 at comcast.net Tue Jan 20 17:50:24 2009 From: stantr6 at comcast.net (stantr6 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 00:50:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <2005664432.3784581232498589082.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <412508976.3787311232499024002.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Attached photos show how I installed speakers on rear deck of my TR6. The triangular piece is made from 1/4" plywood I had, the side against the back panel is slightly curved. Covered them with padded vinyl from fabric shop, installed t-nuts from rear for mounting speaker. Fabricated z-clips for bottom of speaker mount, as well as the fittings in the corner and above speaker that the spring is attached to. Installed angle alu. as shown, notched to accommodate the speaker. Speaker mount clips over the angle alu., with the spring holding the entire assembly in place. Stan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "Richard Crabbe" , Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 8:39:49 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Crabby.... I know one guy who built a false panel on his rear deck and then covered it in a "matching" vinyl. The false panel was positioned in front of the real panel and you had to look twice to even see it. That gave him the few extra inches he needed to install the speakers without cutting holes in his stock rear deck panel. I'm considering the same set up. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Crabbe Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 4:17 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Good afternoon all I am trying to come up with a plan or idea to accommodate 2 small speakers on the rear deck of my TR6. Does anyone have any ideas or can steer me in the right direction. When I did the restoration I pre wired for this event Thanks Crabby 76 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as stantr6 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010002.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010005.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010008.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of P1010013.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of PC290037.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of PC290039.JPG] From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 20 18:19:48 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 18:19:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Garagemahall anyone? In-Reply-To: <200901190835.01682.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <49739FFC.31028.1CDF8A@localhost> <200901190835.01682.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <9871C151459C41DE8FDF09257C13FFBF@sniffer> Bob, That's all real nice, but are the British motorcycles? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 6:35 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Garagemahall anyone? I must reply to the comment Ashford left on the Garagemahall web page about my less than "organized" garage. At this time, as you may be able to see, I have the 72 TR6 project with the frame on one side and the body on the other with the engine tucked away on a stand just in front of the front apron. But what the photos don't show is a covered TR3, 2 motorcycles, snowblower, snow shovels, roof snow rake and 2 boxes containing the rear suspension! Now this garage is a funny design sort of L shaped but it has produced a 58 TR3A, a 63 TR4 and a 74 T140V complete restorations! Also the garage has a 60 gal 5HP upright compressor, a oxy-acelt torch setup and a cabinet sand blaster. When spring arrives, things will get a bit more organized, but in winter I tend to cram as much "stuff" as I can in odd places so I have some room to work on the project. As this project moves along, I will be talking to a home improvements contractor to scope out the expansion of the current garage. I will need to make it large enough to hold the 3 cars + 2 motorcycles. I wish I had the property size just to build a new pole barn but I don't! Now if I really wanted the list to see a real mess, I would have taken a shot of the garage attic. When I go searching for a part up there it is always a test of my memory and patience! Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.9/1900 - Release Date: 1/19/2009 8:52 PM From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Jan 20 21:57:19 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 20:57:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself Message-ID: <739286.25164.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I've picked up a pair of HS6's and am toying with fitting them on my TR3A. I am missing the "U" shaped sheet metal bracket that bolts between the carbs and holds the bell crank and spring (MOSS part # 371-900). I was wondering if any listers have an extra laying around that they would part with. If not, does someone currently have their HS6 (for TR4) carb bracket off of their car and could they trace an outline and give me the offset measurements (side view) so I could fabricate my own? Contact me off list please. TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Jan 20 22:19:34 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 21:19:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] MIG welders Message-ID: <57463.63590.qm@web59406.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Boy do i identify with you! I bought a Hobart 135............plugs into 110. I had the same problem. Burn through was so easy I really got down on myself. But discovered that practice practice practice was the most important. After 6 months I'm still not completely happy with my welds but they are acceptable. I DO NOT weld anything but spot welds and that seems to be the acceptable way to weld on 18 or 20 guage. Most all of my welding so far has been on the inner tub of a tr-3 so it will not show. Hopefully after all this welding on inner stuff i'll be able to weld outer body panels that show in an acceptable way. Another issue is cleanliness of the metal. I'm still getting "blow outs" or burn throughs when i weld new metal to old. I try to clean up the old metal as much as possible before welding new to it but at times can't get it completely clean and this results in burn through. sooo hang in there fergie. For me it takes time and practice............!! gary n. From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Jan 20 23:26:37 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 01:26:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans References: <412508976.3787311232499024002.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Sorry to bomb the list, but I could not receive Stan's photos, or any others for that matter. Instead, I always get a message that "demime 1.01 has removed an attachment/image....etc., etc..." Would someone be kind enough to clue this computer dummy as to how to correct this situation. Thanks much. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Cc: Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:50 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans > Attached photos show how I installed speakers on rear deck of my TR6. > The triangular piece is made from 1/4" plywood I had, the side against the > back panel is slightly curved. > Covered them with padded vinyl from fabric shop, installed t-nuts from > rear for mounting speaker. Fabricated z-clips for bottom of speaker mount, > as well as the fittings in the corner and above speaker that the spring is > attached to. Installed angle alu. as shown, notched to accommodate the > speaker. Speaker mount clips over the angle alu., with the spring holding > the entire assembly in place. > Stan From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Jan 20 23:33:32 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 01:33:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: References: <412508976.3787311232499024002.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CB49A95076303D-7E4-1BAB@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com> Tom, There are two solutions.? Have the pictures sent to you directly by one of the people who has them.? Or someone post them on the web somewhere where you can access them and download them.? As you have said, the list strips all attachments. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Tom Note To: stantr6 at comcast.net; Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 1:26 am Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Sorry to bomb the list, but I could not receive Stan's photos, or any others for that matter.? Instead, I always get a message that "demime 1.01 has removed an attachment/image....etc., etc..."? Would someone be kind enough to clue this computer dummy as to how to correct this situation.? ? Thanks much.? Tom? ? ----- Original Message ----- From: ? To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>? Cc: ? Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:50 PM? Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans? ? > Attached photos show how I installed speakers on rear deck of my TR6.? > The triangular piece is made from 1/4" plywood I had, the side against the > back panel is slightly curved.? > Covered them with padded vinyl from fabric shop, installed t-nuts from > rear for mounting speaker. Fabricated z-clips for bottom of speaker mount, > as well as the fittings in the corner and above speaker that the spring is > attached to. Installed angle alu. as shown, notched to accommodate the > speaker. Speaker mount clips over the angle alu., with the spring holding > the entire assembly in place.? > Stan? _______________________________________________? ? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? ? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register? http://www.vtr.org? ? Triumphs at autox.team.net? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs? ? You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com? ? http://www.team.net/archive? From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Jan 20 23:38:58 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 01:38:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans References: <412508976.3787311232499024002.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <8CB49A95076303D-7E4-1BAB@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <26877ED39B094501A5EA8C67E20E1E27@Toms> Thanks Aaron. If I understand you, then, It's not just someting dumb that I'm doing, or an incorrect stting on my email configuration, but is a characteristic or limitation of the list, and everyone on the list has the same problem ? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: acekraut11 at aol.com To: tom628 at verizon.net ; stantr6 at comcast.net ; 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 1:33 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Tom, There are two solutions. Have the pictures sent to you directly by one of the people who has them. Or someone post them on the web somewhere where you can access them and download them. As you have said, the list strips all attachments. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine 2 easy steps! From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Wed Jan 21 02:46:15 2009 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 10:46:15 +0100 Subject: [TR] Request to P Ethier Message-ID: <3903B3E08D3B4BDD96B13F57C7DE1A0E@Study> Sorry to bomb the list but ISP comcast won't accept email from me. Phil, please send me an alternative email address off list. Thanks. David Brister 1967 TR4A. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.9 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 18094 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Jan 21 06:02:24 2009 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 08:02:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Richard, This link will show you how I designed and built the speakers for the rear deck of my TR4. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/GreatAudioTR4.pdf Cheers, Brian From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 21 07:01:56 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 09:01:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <26877ED39B094501A5EA8C67E20E1E27@Toms> References: <412508976.3787311232499024002.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <8CB49A95076303D-7E4-1BAB@FWM-D28.sysops.aol.com> <26877ED39B094501A5EA8C67E20E1E27@Toms> Message-ID: Tom, That's correct. It's a "List thing". Everything is in Plain Text format, no HTML supported, no fancy fonts, no pictures, no attachments. There's also a size capacity so when doing a Reply All, you may have to delete parts of the original message or replies or it will bounce back. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _____ From: Tom Note [mailto:tom628 at verizon.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 1:39 AM To: acekraut11 at aol.com; stantr6 at comcast.net; 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Thanks Aaron. If I understand you, then, It's not just someting dumb that I'm doing, or an incorrect stting on my email configuration, but is a characteristic or limitation of the list, and everyone on the list has the same problem ? Tom From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 21 07:13:18 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 09:13:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <412508976.3787311232499024002.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2005664432.3784581232498589082.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <412508976.3787311232499024002.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Stan, That is a very clever way of doing it. Especially the way you used springs to secure everything. Now I've got 3 designs to think about: the triangles in the corners, Brian Jones' box that lays on the rear deck and some else did a box that went vertical against the rear panel. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _____ From: stantr6 at comcast.net [mailto:stantr6 at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 7:50 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: Richard Crabbe; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans Attached photos show how I installed speakers on rear deck of my TR6. The triangular piece is made from 1/4" plywood I had, the side against the back panel is slightly curved. Covered them with padded vinyl from fabric shop, installed t-nuts from rear for mounting speaker. Fabricated z-clips for bottom of speaker mount, as well as the fittings in the corner and above speaker that the spring is attached to. Installed angle alu. as shown, notched to accommodate the speaker. Speaker mount clips over the angle alu., with the spring holding the entire assembly in place. Stan From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 21 08:04:41 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 07:04:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <26877ED39B094501A5EA8C67E20E1E27@Toms> Message-ID: <20090121150441.ULQD16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > but is a characteristic or limitation of the list, and > everyone on the list has the same problem ? Yes, that is exactly right. The list server limits the size of each post, and forbids any sort of attachment including photos and HTML. This both ensures that no viruses or other malware can be spread through the list; and that the archives remain a reasonable size. There are any number of websites where you can post photos and then supply a link to them. One of them is offered by Team.Net. Go to http://www.team.net/the-local and register/login; then you can upload photos to the "Image Galleries". The Forums there also allow photos. Randall From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Jan 21 08:53:40 2009 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 10:53:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] MIG Welders In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have the Hobart 135, which is the same machine as the Miller 135, but with a bit more plastic. It is a very easy machine to use. On the back of the door it has a chart for setting based on metal thickness and gas. I just follow the recommended setting for the most part and have had great luck. Last winter I used this machine to weld floors, sills, rear fender, etc, on my Spitfire. Worked like a charm. I used just over a 5 lb spool of 0.30 wire. I've used the same technique as Brian with the copper, in fact I bought plug welding pliers for about $10 that have a thick 1" disk of copper for just that reason, a very handy set of pliers. Mark From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at roadrunner.com> I can attest to the Miller products - great welders! I've had my Miller 135 for years and it's done everything I've wanted it to. Also, if you're having burn thru problems, try backing the weld area with copper (I use a flattened copper pipe) to dissipate the heat. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Wed Jan 21 12:09:34 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 11:09:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Fw: Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself Message-ID: <438642.80912.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> The HS6 part in the inquiry below is NLA from MOSS or anyone else that I can find. If I could buy one used, I might make tooling to replicate it so other people could get HS6's on a TR3 or 6. Bill in Tehachapi From: William Brewer Subject: Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, January 20, 2009, 8:57 PM I've picked up a pair of HS6's and am toying with fitting them on my TR3A. I am missing the "U" shaped sheet metal bracket that bolts between the carbs and holds the bell crank and spring (MOSS part # 371-900). I was wondering if any listers have an extra laying around that they would part with. If not, does someone currently have their HS6 (for TR4) carb bracket off of their car and could they trace an outline and give me the offset measurements (side view) so I could fabricate my own? Contact me off list please. TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Wed Jan 21 12:24:00 2009 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 13:24:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] Fw: Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself In-Reply-To: <438642.80912.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <438642.80912.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill, I was able to re-use the bracket and throttle linkeages from my TR6 when converting it to HS6's. Joe Curto may be able to provide what you need. http://www.joecurto.com/ Here are some pictures of the conversion: http://www.geigergarage.com/images/TR6_SU/page01/index.htm Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 1:09 PM Subject: [TR] Fw: Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself > The HS6 part in the inquiry below is NLA from MOSS or anyone else that > I > can find. If I could buy one used, I might make tooling to replicate it so > other people could get HS6's on a TR3 or 6. > > Bill in Tehachapi > > From: William Brewer > Subject: Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, January 20, 2009, 8:57 PM > > I've picked up a pair of HS6's and am toying with fitting them on > my TR3A. I am missing the "U" shaped sheet metal bracket that bolts > between the carbs and holds the bell crank and spring (MOSS part # > 371-900). > I > was wondering if any listers have an extra laying around that they would > part > with. If not, does someone currently have their HS6 (for TR4) carb bracket > off > of their car and could they trace an outline and give me the offset > measurements > (side view) so I could fabricate my own? > Contact me off list please. > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA From dkspence at telus.net Wed Jan 21 13:59:10 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 13:59:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> Keeping in mind that the TR4A and subsequent were "convertables" as opposed to "roadsters" and as such had issues with the space taken up by the stowed top you could also look at flat plane speakers such as "Monsoon". From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Jan 21 14:16:06 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 16:16:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> Message-ID: <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> I'm completely lost on this discussion, what can you hear from a radio at or above 35 MPH with the top down in a LBC ==nothing== once I had four (4) speakers in my T/R 3 and it was very clear and very loud at every stop sign or red light, but under way even "she" cannot hear the radio, and "yes" I have the original radio set-up bracket with speakers in the "kick pads",rear seat area and above the radio, looks neat, but thats it. "FT" From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Wed Jan 21 14:22:54 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 16:22:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <21241733-F4AF-4FBB-891E-AAAFAF5DFB15@mindspring.com> I'm sorry Fred I'm having trouble hearing you with the windows down. What'd you say? Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Jan 21, 2009, at 4:16 PM, FRED E THOMAS wrote: > I'm completely lost on this discussion, what can you hear from a > radio at or above 35 MPH with the top down in a LBC ==nothing== once > I had four (4) speakers in my T/R 3 and it was very clear and very > loud at every stop sign or red light, but under way even "she" > cannot hear the radio, and "yes" I have the original radio set-up > bracket with speakers in the "kick pads",rear seat area and above > the radio, looks neat, but thats it. "FT" > _______________________________________________ From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Jan 21 15:09:48 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 17:09:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <21241733-F4AF-4FBB-891E-AAAFAF5DFB15@mindspring.com> References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> <21241733-F4AF-4FBB-891E-AAAFAF5DFB15@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <49779D2C.3000001@comcast.net> Windows? What are these things called windows???? Fergie 1950 TR3A :) Ashford Little wrote: I'm sorry Fred I'm having trouble hearing you with the windows down. What'd you say? Ashford Little '70 TR6 From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Jan 21 15:16:00 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 17:16:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <49779D2C.3000001@comcast.net> References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> <21241733-F4AF-4FBB-891E-AAAFAF5DFB15@mindspring.com> <49779D2C.3000001@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49779EA0.1030703@comcast.net> umm, I meant 1959. Michael Ferguson wrote: Windows? What are these things called windows???? Fergie 1950 TR3A :) Ashford Little wrote: I'm sorry Fred I'm having trouble hearing you with the windows down. What'd you say? Ashford Little '70 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Wed Jan 21 15:16:54 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 17:16:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <49779EA0.1030703@comcast.net> References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> <21241733-F4AF-4FBB-891E-AAAFAF5DFB15@mindspring.com> <49779D2C.3000001@comcast.net> <49779EA0.1030703@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7BF3B07C-C0A6-43A2-8446-8D1AA79D47A7@mindspring.com> Did you spill some fluif on your keyboard? Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Jan 21, 2009, at 5:16 PM, Michael Ferguson wrote: > umm, I meant 1959. From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Jan 21 15:20:21 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 17:20:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <7BF3B07C-C0A6-43A2-8446-8D1AA79D47A7@mindspring.com> References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> <21241733-F4AF-4FBB-891E-AAAFAF5DFB15@mindspring.com> <49779D2C.3000001@comcast.net> <49779EA0.1030703@comcast.net> <7BF3B07C-C0A6-43A2-8446-8D1AA79D47A7@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <49779FA5.1090109@comcast.net> Joe? Is that you? Ashford Little wrote: Did you spill some fluif on your keyboard? Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Jan 21, 2009, at 5:16 PM, Michael Ferguson wrote: umm, I meant 1959. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 21 16:28:07 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 18:28:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <847EE3BADC8A4EB7BF62934154F48004@BOBSNEWPC> Fred, That's cuz the OLD cars were really noisy. The modern TR6 is much more quiet ;-) Actually I can hear my radio when driving around town but for a long trip on the highway I switch to my MP3 player and headphones. Bob...... What? What? I can't hear you! :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 4:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans I'm completely lost on this discussion, what can you hear from a radio at or above 35 MPH with the top down in a LBC ==nothing== once I had four (4) speakers in my T/R 3 and it was very clear and very loud at every stop sign or red light, but under way even "she" cannot hear the radio, and "yes" I have the original radio set-up bracket with speakers in the "kick pads",rear seat area and above the radio, looks neat, but thats it. "FT" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 21 17:18:21 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 16:18:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <004101c97c26$ef97bc30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm completely lost on this discussion, what can you hear from a radio at > or > above 35 MPH with the top down in a LBC ==nothing== My hearing is considerably less than optimum (which my ear doctor says has nothing to do with driving a TR3A for so many years ); and yet I was able to listen to audio books at freeway speeds in my TR3A. This was with two modern speakers and a CD-MP3 player, not even a separate amplifier. No top, no windows. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Wed Jan 21 18:50:09 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 20:50:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself References: <438642.80912.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <285A7DA40F74452AA50AE8F2610892BB@DCS78M81> I got all the pieces to convert the TR3A to HS6's from http://www.aptfast.com/ so there's another source for you . Good luck and let us know the outcome of the search. Tom 60 TR3A 61 TR3A 62 TR4 73 Stag ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Geiger" To: ; "Triumphs" Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 2:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself > Bill, > > I was able to re-use the bracket and throttle linkeages from my TR6 when > converting it to HS6's. > > Joe Curto may be able to provide what you need. http://www.joecurto.com/ > > Here are some pictures of the conversion: > http://www.geigergarage.com/images/TR6_SU/page01/index.htm > > Terry Geiger > www.GeigerGarage.com From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Jan 21 19:00:17 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 21:00:17 EST Subject: [TR] 14 Inch Steering Wheel Message-ID: All, Two questions: 1. Does a TR6 Steering Wheel fit a GT6? 2. If so, does anyone have an original late (14 inch) steering wheel they would like to part with? Please contact me off line if one is for sale. Best to all Sam Clark **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From ZoboHerald at aol.com Wed Jan 21 20:45:15 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 22:45:15 EST Subject: [TR] 14 Inch Steering Wheel Message-ID: In a message dated 1/21/2009 9:00:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, TRDOCTOR at aol.com writes: 1. Does a TR6 Steering Wheel fit a GT6? ==AM== Yes! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's capital. (http://news.aol.com/main/politics/inauguration?ncid=emlcntusnews00000003) From nogera at worldnet.att.net Thu Jan 22 07:22:31 2009 From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira ) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 08:22:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil galley plugs Message-ID: I received my block back from the machine shop. Seems in cleaning dip has pretty much eaten up the aluminum plugs on the oil galley. Am I correct that the threads are pipe thread and a iron or brass plug will work as well as the aluminum? Any thought as to why they used alumina plugs in a cast iron block ? Thanks Bob Nogueira From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Thu Jan 22 07:22:08 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 09:22:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] MIG welders Message-ID: <87ABA48B-B380-44D0-A7CE-66F69B9B9BF7@mgcarclub.com> I know this thread is getting a little stale but I'd add a couple points: If you forget to turn on the gas you will get some pretty bad and ugly welds. It may be obvious but I've done it. My experience with drilled out spot welds is this: If the old spot weld hole is too small, the weld tended to fill the hole and not penetrate the piece behind. Enlarging the hole about one drill size and it worked just fine. Allen From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 22 07:58:46 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:58:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans w/ solution. In-Reply-To: <004101c97c26$ef97bc30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <724EA1DF-E9F0-417A-93A9-59B8EB1C572F@telus.net> <07C5B39124824D85BA57B769ADE71CE8@fred8kwiskhcfu> <004101c97c26$ef97bc30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Amplifier. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_howit works_012009 From tony at tonydrews.com Thu Jan 22 08:25:53 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 09:25:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil galley plugs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090122152620.362D11878A4@autox.team.net> One approach is to re-tap the holes with a pipe thread tap and use brass plugs in place of the aluminum ones. Here's a couple of posts from me on the subject last year: There's a pipe thread that's close to what's in the block originally. Re-tap them with this, and put brass pipe thread plugs with allen head ends. Just tap it deep enough that at least the front plug doesn't interfere with the front plate. Also, if you go too deep with the front plug, make sure you don't block the feed to the front main - I had to grind a bevel on the backside of mine since I got a little overzealous with the tap. I shove some paper towel down the gallery before tapping so as little crap as possible gets in the gallery, and then I clean it out very well before assembly. Works best on a bare block that you can clean all passages thoroughly after tapping. - Tony Drews and The tap and plugs are 1/2"-14 NPT. - Tony At 08:22 AM 1/22/2009, Bob Nogueira wrote: >I received my block back from the machine shop. Seems in cleaning dip has >pretty much eaten up the aluminum plugs on the oil galley. Am I correct that >the threads are pipe thread and a iron or brass plug will work as well as >the aluminum? >Any thought as to why they used alumina plugs in a cast iron block ? > >Thanks > >Bob Nogueira >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Thu Jan 22 09:41:09 2009 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 11:41:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear Deck Speaker Plans In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Fred, I have the radio Moss now sell. Its 50 or 60 Watt per channel, through the speakers in the box I designed, and I can hear music clearly, top-down, at 60 mph. Brian From chandler.rick at comcast.net Thu Jan 22 10:20:11 2009 From: chandler.rick at comcast.net (Rick) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 09:20:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself Message-ID: Bill, Give Paltech a ring. The part you need is off of a TR6, and Jeff will set up the entire linkage for you and test it in his shop. However, in fitting HS6s to a TR3A, you should use the TR4A intake manifold (and exhaust manifold, as they fit together). The TR3A intake manifold throat is too short and the ports are clumsily made; in comparison, the TR4A manifold is a fluid dynamicist's dream. HS6 carburetors have a shorter throat than the H series, expecting to see the longer manifold length. You will have to adapt the TR4A dual exhaust manifold to fit your existing single down-pipe as well. You're looking at several hundred bucks to complete the conversion, but will appreciate the upgrade in performance. Rick in Seattle 1960 TR3A 1970 BSA 441 Victor Special 1975 Norton 850 Commando Mk 3 From deruiterville at hotmail.com Thu Jan 22 10:26:02 2009 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 11:26:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil galley plugs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob- I can't help with the thread pitch, but for my TR3 I could still purchase the aluminum plugs from TRF (stick of 3 plugs) at a reasonable price (guessing ~$3-$4 dollars just last month). Randy> I received my block back from the machine shop. Seems in cleaning dip has> pretty much eaten up the aluminum plugs on the oil galley. Am I correct that> the threads are pipe thread and a iron or brass plug will work as well as> the aluminum?> Any thought as to why they used alumina plugs in a cast iron block ?> > Thanks> > Bob Nogueira _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_01200 9 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 22 11:56:06 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 10:56:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Need SU HS6 Part Measurement or the part itself In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <011901c97cc3$154cee40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The TR3A intake manifold throat is too short and the > ports are clumsily made; in comparison, the TR4A manifold is a fluid > dynamicist's dream. Oddly enough, the late uncle jack told me that with some work, the early manifold both flows better on the bench and makes more power on the dyno; in spite of the way it looks. I unfortunately never got around to having him rework a head and manifold for me, but he spent a lot of time and effort learning what works, and he recommended the early manifold with HS6 carbs for a "fast road" setup. Not sure if they still have it, but Moss used to sell a 4-2-1 tubing header that was also recommended over the cast iron TR4A unit (which is hard to fit in the narrower TR3 frame). Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 22 14:20:00 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:20:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question Message-ID: One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200 range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time, adjustable shade control & ANSI certified. I remember driving down the highway a year or so ago and seeing something blow out of the back of truck. It was a welding helmet. So I caught the guy, who was a welding contractor, and motioned that his helmet fell out. He knew immediately what I was motioning about and was able to turn around to get it. If I wasn't so honest I bet I could have scored one expensive helmet! Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wensley_tr at comcast.net Thu Jan 22 14:24:23 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:24:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <9BCE970525E24EBD81A97484CCA07D8C@Desktop> Who did you buy the welder from? Go there and see if it fits Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 4:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack List' Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200 range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time, adjustable shade control & ANSI certified. I remember driving down the highway a year or so ago and seeing something blow out of the back of truck. It was a welding helmet. So I caught the guy, who was a welding contractor, and motioned that his helmet fell out. He knew immediately what I was motioning about and was able to turn around to get it. If I wasn't so honest I bet I could have scored one expensive helmet! Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From tr3a at comcast.net Thu Jan 22 14:33:07 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:33:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4978E613.10805@comcast.net> Bob, I have the HF version, though I haven't used it yet (long story). Shades 9-13. On sale from tmie to time for about $50. Here are a few links that might prove helpful... http://www.caloly-safety.com/info_welding_choosing.cfm http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/search.php?searchid=4221966 http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/search.php?sea rchid=3415405 Bob Danielson wrote: One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets... From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 22 14:33:39 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:33:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6C24B40E3D12425485C35F284FD86567@joepentiumnew> Check out Harbor Freight. I bought a cheap one from them that works pretty well. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 2:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack List' Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200 range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time, adjustable shade control & ANSI certified. I remember driving down the highway a year or so ago and seeing something blow out of the back of truck. It was a welding helmet. So I caught the guy, who was a welding contractor, and motioned that his helmet fell out. He knew immediately what I was motioning about and was able to turn around to get it. If I wasn't so honest I bet I could have scored one expensive helmet! Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 22 15:10:57 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:10:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01b401c97cde$4d772e50$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones > listed at $30 - $50. Most likely the same thing HF sells, bought on sale. I see a lot of that. Sometimes it's even drop-shipped from HF. I bought mine direct from HF for $50 plus tax (but no shipping). > So I'm guessing the difference lies in various > construction aspects of the helmet itself. Not surprisingly, the HF model looks and feels cheap. Thin plastic, not very rigid. > Will the less > expensive ones do the job My Dad has been using one for a couple of years now, with no reported ill effects. And my eye doctor says that if it was letting enough light through to be harmful, you would notice the effects. Too much UV (for example) will "sunburn" your corneas, which makes your eyes feel like they are full of sand. Too much visible light leaves dark spots (afterimages). So I conclude that they will do the job; at least until they quit working at all. But I've not tried it myself yet. The welder is the next "garage improvement" project, after the big air compressor gets hooked up. Randall From tr3a at comcast.net Thu Jan 22 15:24:11 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 17:24:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] MIG Welders In-Reply-To: <4975171C.2000508@comcast.net> References: <4975171C.2000508@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4978F20B.6080600@comcast.net> I just wanted to thank those of you who replied to my welder questions. I do appreciate the help and good suggestions! I have pretty much decided on the Hobart Handler 210. I really like the Millermatic 180, but the Hobart has a lower bottom end amperage and a higher top end. Plus, I haven't found a bad review of the 210 (and I've read a lot of reviews!). While it's not as "industrial" as a Miller...neither am I. I also thought about a 120v welder, but everything I read on the welder forums suggests that I will not regret buying a 240v machine. Since I already have a subpanel in the garage for the compressor, adding a 240v outlet will be cheap and easy. Thank you, gentlemen...I'm looking forward to punching new holes in the 20 gauge!!! :) Fergie 1959 TR3A TS53990L(0) Michael Ferguson wrote: > Hi guys. Awhile back, I bought a used Craftsman 110v, 75a (max) MIG. > Also bought the Argon/CO2 cylinder and some .023 solid wire. I'm > trying to use it for 20 ga mild steel for bodywork on my TR > restoration project. If I try anything other than a tack weld, burn > through is a distinct possibility...and ugly, sloppy welds are a > given! And yes, the polarity is correct. So, since MIG is supposed to > be relatively simple to learn - and I can't seem to - I have come to > the conclusion that the problem is with the welder, not the operator. > Could be wrong, but I'm working on my self esteem. :^) > ...................... From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu Jan 22 15:48:45 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:48:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question References: <01b401c97cde$4d772e50$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <942F686F5CF348B39133CFDDDCBC8553@KARL> One thing to remember about automatic lenses is that the UV protection is in the glass itself. Whatever the shade adjustment - even if the lens isn't turned on and is thus "clear" - they provide good UV protection. Now if the helmet isn't turned on, you're looking directly at the arc and can't see properly, but you're not sunburning your eyes. Not that I've ever done that... ahem... Karl From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Jan 22 15:58:58 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:58:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel Message-ID: <339603.30263.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> damn. I had my flywheel lightened by 4 lbs. by local machinist. good machinist but It never occured to me to also balance it. dumb newbie slip-up. What would be suggested now? assume its unbalanced? remove and balance? Or wait? I'm assuming it could be unbalanced enough to cause damage without being "felt" in any way by driving it or by feeling the engine while its running. gary n. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 22 16:41:15 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 18:41:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel In-Reply-To: <339603.30263.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <339603.30263.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My understanding is that you should have the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate balanced as a unit. That's what I was told to do last year when I installed a new clutch and pp. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 5:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel damn. I had my flywheel lightened by 4 lbs. by local machinist. good machinist but It never occured to me to also balance it. dumb newbie slip-up. What would be suggested now? assume its unbalanced? remove and balance? Or wait? I'm assuming it could be unbalanced enough to cause damage without being "felt" in any way by driving it or by feeling the engine while its running. gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 22 16:42:09 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:42:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel In-Reply-To: <339603.30263.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <339603.30263.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1223DF008FFB4311BCCBE349BFB64BD7@joepentiumnew> Gary, I would have to say that if it is a "Good Machinist" he would have made sure that it was balanced before handing it back to you. Before going any further, I would call him and ask the magic question. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 3:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel damn. I had my flywheel lightened by 4 lbs. by local machinist. good machinist but It never occured to me to also balance it. dumb newbie slip-up. What would be suggested now? assume its unbalanced? remove and balance? Or wait? I'm assuming it could be unbalanced enough to cause damage without being "felt" in any way by driving it or by feeling the engine while its running. gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr6parts at charter.net Thu Jan 22 17:34:50 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:34:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: <6C24B40E3D12425485C35F284FD86567@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <20090122193450.0T4YT.3614942.root@mp11> I am taking a welding course now. The instructor said he has an expensive one and one from Harbor Freight , and the one from H.F. works just as well. They have auto adjusting ones from $39-49 on sale. Al From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jan 22 18:59:53 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 18:59:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Aluminum Oil galley plugs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I bought a box of 5 steel plugs for my TR3 from McMasters for about $7 last year. Perfect fit no tapping needed. BTW, McMasters calls them Set Screws in their on-line catalog. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randy&Val DeRuiter Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 10:26 AM To: nogera at worldnet.att.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Aluminum Oil galley plugs Bob- I can't help with the thread pitch, but for my TR3 I could still purchase the aluminum plugs from TRF (stick of 3 plugs) at a reasonable price (guessing ~$3-$4 dollars just last month). Randy> I received my block back from the machine shop. Seems in cleaning Randy> dip has> pretty much eaten up the aluminum plugs on the oil galley. Am I has> correct that> the threads are pipe thread and a iron or brass plug will work as that> well as> the aluminum?> Any thought as to why they used alumina plugs in a as> cast iron block ?> > Thanks> > Bob Nogueira _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0120 0 9 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.10/1906 - Release Date: 1/22/2009 6:28 PM From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Jan 22 20:29:34 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 19:29:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4979399E.5040908@comcast.net> Bob, I bought on a couple of years ago at the local welding supply shop they recommended a mid range one that ran me about $90. It's go solar cells that charge the battery and so far it's always worked without any messing around. Even after hanging on the wall for months. I was also told that the critical thing is the UV protection, and that the auto darkening has nothing to do with UV. Even if it doesn't trigger and darken, your eyes are still protected by the UV filter. One of the best welding tools that I have purchased so far. By the way, I also have a Miller-Matic 135 and am quite happy with it. My welds were a little rough at first, but by the time I got done patching up the body on my TR3, I am getting pretty good. I wish I could go back and re-do so of the first welds that I did! Mike Bob Danielson wrote: > One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the > sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire > so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll > be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of > Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200 > range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed > at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they > are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting > various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various > construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe > once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less > expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time, > adjustable shade control & ANSI certified. From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Jan 22 20:39:27 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 19:39:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: <4979399E.5040908@comcast.net> References: <4979399E.5040908@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49793BEF.9010004@comcast.net> Wow, looking back over that last email, I sure did a lot of typo's! I guess I need to proof read better. Nothing even approaching being as memorable as fluif! Oh well, maybe next time. ;>) Mike Michael Lang wrote: > Bob, > > I bought on a couple of years ago at the local welding supply shop they > recommended a mid range one that ran me about $90. It's go solar cells > that charge the battery and so far it's always worked without any > messing around. Even after hanging on the wall for months. > > I was also told that the critical thing is the UV protection, and that > the auto darkening has nothing to do with UV. Even if it doesn't trigger > and darken, your eyes are still protected by the UV filter. > > One of the best welding tools that I have purchased so far. By the way, > I also have a Miller-Matic 135 and am quite happy with it. My welds were > a little rough at first, but by the time I got done patching up the body > on my TR3, I am getting pretty good. I wish I could go back and re-do so > of the first welds that I did! > > Mike From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 22 22:15:20 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 05:15:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel In-Reply-To: <1994616891.308201232687635095.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1526533422.308331232687720307.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > My understanding is that you should have the flywheel, clutch and > pressure > plate balanced as a unit. That's what I was told to do last year when > I > installed a new clutch and pp. So that when you put in a new clutch assembly you have to remove the flywheel and have it balanced again? The plate has to be balanced separately anyway: Every time you use the clutch the plate winds up at a different random position. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jan 22 23:09:01 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 23:09:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel In-Reply-To: <1526533422.308331232687720307.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1994616891.308201232687635095.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1526533422.308331232687720307.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <5851A23CECB74C3EAC154F81A7EC8C4B@sniffer> Phil, The way the machine shop explained it to me, balance them separately then you don't have to pull the flywheel when you replace a clutch. It made perfect sense, so that is what I did when we re-built the original TR3 engine for the car last year. Maybe if you are into a real high-performance situation, but I should think that 90% of us are not. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 10:15 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] lightening flywheel ----- "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > My understanding is that you should have the flywheel, clutch and > pressure plate balanced as a unit. That's what I was told to do last > year when I installed a new clutch and pp. So that when you put in a new clutch assembly you have to remove the flywheel and have it balanced again? The plate has to be balanced separately anyway: Every time you use the clutch the plate winds up at a different random position. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.10/1906 - Release Date: 1/22/2009 6:28 PM From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 22 23:11:13 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 23:11:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: <49793BEF.9010004@comcast.net> References: <4979399E.5040908@comcast.net> <49793BEF.9010004@comcast.net> Message-ID: <44F2E1EA70504BA3A2B5CE56A2311512@joepentiumnew> We should all be so fortunate! :-) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Lang Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 8:39 PM Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Welding Helmet Question Wow, looking back over that last email, I sure did a lot of typo's! I guess I need to proof read better. Nothing even approaching being as memorable as fluif! Oh well, maybe next time. ;>) Mike From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 22 23:41:14 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 23:41:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel In-Reply-To: <1526533422.308331232687720307.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1994616891.308201232687635095.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1526533422.308331232687720307.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1B9A8B72AD4140B8A31014ACC0AB11C2@joepentiumnew> If you are talking high rev racing engines, it is prudent to have the entire engine balanced with all moving parts attached. However, for street use, having each assembly balanced should be sufficient. Most clutch disks and pressure plates are close enough out of the box that having everything balanced when attached should not be necessary. Results may vary! Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 10:15 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] lightening flywheel ----- "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > My understanding is that you should have the flywheel, clutch and > pressure > plate balanced as a unit. That's what I was told to do last year when > I > installed a new clutch and pp. So that when you put in a new clutch assembly you have to remove the flywheel and have it balanced again? The plate has to be balanced separately anyway: Every time you use the clutch the plate winds up at a different random position. From opposumking at verizon.net Fri Jan 23 05:48:51 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 07:48:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel References: <339603.30263.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004301c97d58$f48b8c70$2f01a8c0@mde.state.md.us> Like Joe said, a competent machine shop would have balanced it, or if they did not have the equipment for it, would have told you who does. This causes me great concern for you. If the machine shop is clueless about the balancing, I would be very concerned about how they lightened the flywheel. For there are certainly ways to do it that make it much more likely to blow up like a grenade. And that is something you do not want a flywheel to do. I sincerely hope they did a good job, and look at you when you ask about balancing like it's weird you'd even doubt they would not balance it. If not, there are a number of us who have lightened flywheels, and some experience with them. It wouldn't be a bad idea to take a picture of the unit and show it to us for comparison. You could also take the lightened flywheel to a racing machine shop (lots of circle track types around) and let them look at it, and balance it. As for balancing. The racing best is to balance the components individually, and then the entire rotating mass. For a street car or mild racer, individual component balancing alone is adequate. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 23 06:25:11 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 13:25:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have found that lighting helps the problem of not being able to see your target area. I will use a 75 W bulb in my drop light and place it directly below the area if I am under the car. If I am working at the vise I have a goose neck light mounted on the bench that illuminates area that need welding. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.:more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_explore_ 012009 From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 23 07:22:45 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 14:22:45 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel In-Reply-To: <5851A23CECB74C3EAC154F81A7EC8C4B@sniffer> Message-ID: <1624088206.355061232720565052.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "wbeech" wrote:> > The way the machine shop explained it to me, balance them separately > then > you don't have to pull the flywheel when you replace a clutch. It > made > perfect sense, so that is what I did when we re-built the original > TR3 > engine for the car last year. Exactly my take on it. Balancing it all of a piece without having balanced the flywheel separately would be a mistake, IMHO. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri Jan 23 09:31:36 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 08:31:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors Message-ID: <548987.30167.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> What was the final verdict on the sun visors? Did we find out who has the best original types? Are the Heritage ones the only new ones available? Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA 1960 TR3A 1974 TR6 Message: 2 Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:11:01 -0500 From: Joe Burlein Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors To: Triumph List Message-ID: <496CD935.1050804 at earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Recently at a local cruise-in (Titusville, FL) I saw a TR6 in the restoration process. It had a new set of visors that actually matched the originals. The ones sold by TRF and Moss are the Heritage ones that have one of the corners pressed flat instead of being "puffy" like the rest of the visor. I never did find the gent who owned the car. Does anyone know where to get exact reproductions of the TR6 sun visors? Thanks, Joe 72 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 23 11:33:51 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 10:33:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] lightening flywheel In-Reply-To: <339603.30263.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <339603.30263.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <036901c97d89$23d39470$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm assuming it could be unbalanced enough to cause > damage without being "felt" in any way by driving it or by feeling the > engine > while its running. IMO, that's not likely. You might be able to lose a tiny bit of power that way, but my TR3 engine is noticeably out of balance and has run a long time that way with no problems beyond the vibration, nuts backing off, etc. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 23 15:49:28 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 17:49:28 EST Subject: [TR] Welding Helmet Question Message-ID: Not using auto darkening is such a pain I cannot imagine not using one. My only complaint on the HF model is the mechanism that holds it up above your head. The cheap ones do not work all that well and do not allow me to look down without it falling in front of my face. It will not tighten sufficiently to not do so. As to auto darkening it works great. I would step up to an expensive one if I welded more but about a weeks worth of welding a year does not warrant it. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 23 15:59:42 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 17:59:42 EST Subject: [TR] wires for top/ or side mount dizzy caps? Message-ID: Paul, I have been away. IMHO do not bother with the NOS green wires. They are not that good. Step for some Magnacores and move on. David David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri Jan 23 17:39:06 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 16:39:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] flywheel lightening ty randall......... Message-ID: <297390.97326.qm@web59416.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> randall's response gave me great relief when he stated that his tr-3 isn't balanced. I can breathe easier now concerning my tr-6. However I was thinking that an out of balance flywheel might damage the crank bearings. wouldn't that be hard on them eventually? Having an unbalanced flywheel basically pounding its way each revolution? That was my concern........ thanks! gary n. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Fri Jan 23 17:49:43 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 19:49:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors In-Reply-To: <548987.30167.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <548987.30167.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <497A65A7.9080106@earthlink.net> So far no one has new ones to match the original visors. I am still going to see if I can track down the guy with the TR6 at the next cruise-in. Or, time to make calls for NOS or good used. Joe William Brewer wrote: > What was the final verdict on the sun visors? Did we find out who has the best original types? Are the Heritage ones the only new ones available? > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > 1960 TR3A > 1974 TR6 > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 13:11:01 -0500 > From: Joe Burlein > Subject: [TR] TR6 Sun Visors > To: Triumph List > Message-ID: <496CD935.1050804 at earthlink.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > Recently at a local cruise-in (Titusville, FL) I saw a TR6 in the > restoration process. It had a new set of visors that actually matched > the originals. The ones sold by TRF and Moss are the Heritage ones that > have one of the corners pressed flat instead of being "puffy" like the > rest of the visor. I never did find the gent who owned the car. Does > anyone know where to get exact reproductions of the TR6 sun visors? > > Thanks, > > Joe > 72 TR6 From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Jan 23 20:44:44 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 22:44:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench Message-ID: <7F849081B3004363AF52D0F65EA893BE@Scott> Does anyone know who was manufacturing the bezel wrench that has the two sizes (for large and small bezels), one at each end of the pipe? A friend wants to get one and I can't recall if I bought it on eBay or from the list. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Jan 24 00:53:54 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 01:53:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] flywheel lightening ty randall......... In-Reply-To: <297390.97326.qm@web59416.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <297390.97326.qm@web59416.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090124075421.A4C741878B7@autox.team.net> Unless it's significantly out of balance, don't worry about it. I don't think the factory balanced all of that stuff, and the engines lasted just fine. We've run racing engines for years without THAT being an issue - of course the bearings don't last long when racing anyway... - Tony At 06:39 PM 1/23/2009, Gary Nafziger wrote: >randall's response gave me great relief when he stated that his tr-3 isn't >balanced. I can breathe easier now concerning my tr-6. >However I was thinking >that an out of balance flywheel might damage the crank bearings. wouldn't >that be hard on them eventually? Having an unbalanced flywheel basically >pounding its way each revolution? That was my concern........ >thanks! > >gary >n. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sat Jan 24 08:44:44 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 10:44:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench In-Reply-To: <7F849081B3004363AF52D0F65EA893BE@Scott> References: <7F849081B3004363AF52D0F65EA893BE@Scott> Message-ID: <112080A2C1EB4C549A33374B1AB651F7@CarlPC> I bought mine on eBay... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Suhring" To: "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Friday, January 23, 2009 10:44 PM Subject: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench > Does anyone know who was manufacturing the bezel wrench that has the two > sizes (for large and small bezels), one at each end of the pipe? A friend > wants to get one and I can't recall if I bought it on eBay or from the > list. > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Jan 24 12:16:43 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 12:16:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson Message-ID: <275A38B8-3E1B-4319-8235-A63665A2198D@cox.net> According to the NY Times a 61 TR3A was sold for $49K at Barrett- Jackson! And it looks exactly like mine! :-) http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/01/25/automobiles/collectibles/0125-auction_5.html John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jan 24 12:33:39 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 12:33:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson In-Reply-To: <275A38B8-3E1B-4319-8235-A63665A2198D@cox.net> References: <275A38B8-3E1B-4319-8235-A63665A2198D@cox.net> Message-ID: <9E650CC6C09D45738ED6E2C8B176A4BE@joepentiumnew> Check your garage, John. It might just be yours! Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 60TR3A Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 12:17 PM To: Triumph car discussion Sports Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson According to the NY Times a 61 TR3A was sold for $49K at Barrett- Jackson! And it looks exactly like mine! :-) http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/01/25/automobiles/collectibles/0125-au ction_5.html John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From wensley_tr at comcast.net Sat Jan 24 12:42:56 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 14:42:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson In-Reply-To: <9E650CC6C09D45738ED6E2C8B176A4BE@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: If I got 49K for mine I would be out buying some beer Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 2:34 PM To: '60TR3A'; 'Triumph car discussion Sports' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson Check your garage, John. It might just be yours! Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 60TR3A Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 12:17 PM To: Triumph car discussion Sports Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson According to the NY Times a 61 TR3A was sold for $49K at Barrett- Jackson! And it looks exactly like mine! :-) http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/01/25/automobiles/collectibles/0125-au ction_5.html John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From jlynn604 at verizon.net Sat Jan 24 12:51:27 2009 From: jlynn604 at verizon.net (Joe Lynn) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 14:51:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If I got $49K for mine, I would buy two more just like it. Joe On Jan 24, 2009, at 2:42 PM, Craig wrote: > If I got 49K for mine I would be out buying some beer > > Craig > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry > Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 2:34 PM > To: '60TR3A'; 'Triumph car discussion Sports' > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson > > Check your garage, John. It might just be yours! > > Joe C. > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 60TR3A > Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 12:17 PM > To: Triumph car discussion Sports > Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson > > According to the NY Times a 61 TR3A was sold for $49K at Barrett- > Jackson! And it looks exactly like mine! :-) > > > http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2009/01/25/automobiles/collectibles/0125-au > ction_5.html > > John > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ > > 1960 Triumph TR3A > Commission No: TS80422L > http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ > http://www.triumphowners.com/876 > > 1977 Porsche 911S > http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jlynn604 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sat Jan 24 12:52:30 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 14:52:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <56AEB5A1-E155-4D45-A1BA-C300C256ABD1@mindspring.com> You must be pretty picky with your beer Craig. That's mighty expensive fluif if you ask me. Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Jan 24, 2009, at 2:42 PM, Craig wrote: > If I got 49K for mine I would be out buying some beer > > Craig > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry > Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 2:34 PM > To: '60TR3A'; 'Triumph car discussion Sports' > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson > > Check your garage, John. It might just be yours! > > Joe C. From don at napanet.net Sat Jan 24 14:21:12 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 13:21:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson In-Reply-To: <275A38B8-3E1B-4319-8235-A63665A2198D@cox.net> References: <275A38B8-3E1B-4319-8235-A63665A2198D@cox.net> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090124131409.0329fab0@pop.napanet.net> That was a bargain compared to the TR4 that sold at auction for $97,200! Auction fever cause these high prices? Hard to imagine paying that much for a car and not being able to really check it out very well either. http://www.classicautomotiverestoration.com/triumph.html Don Scott 1991 Miata SE BRG 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT 1962 TR4 (searching for) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.10/1903 - Release Date: 01/19/2009 8:52 PM From don at napanet.net Sat Jan 24 16:11:34 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 15:11:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson In-Reply-To: <48DA8E1E7A9C4679A48F15CF082278E9@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <275A38B8-3E1B-4319-8235-A63665A2198D@cox.net> <6.0.3.0.1.20090124131409.0329fab0@pop.napanet.net> <48DA8E1E7A9C4679A48F15CF082278E9@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090124145124.03181290@pop.napanet.net> Hi Fred, There's no substitute for taking a car out on the road and driving it over some railroad tracks, up and down a steep hill, through some curves, idle in traffic, accelerate briskly, stop suddenly, and so on. Then looking underneath after the test drive while it idles, looking for leaks and listening for noises. There are a lot of gremlins lurking in any old car. Most of the old cars I've purchased I have checked out as much as I can to avoid surprises. There will always be something wrong, but it's far better to know before you lay your money down. I test drove a really pretty TR4 two weeks ago. After the test drive, as it idled in the garage, there were some strange noises coming from the gearbox that I didn't hear prior to the drive. I've purchased two cars at a distance that were checked out for me by fellow enthusiasts who gave the cars their blessings. A Riley 1.5 in Hawaill and a '62 Buick Skylark convertible in Connecticut. I didn't look at them or drive them myself. When they arrived, there were issues that I had not been told about. I couldn't even get the Buick off the trailer as the linkage on the 4-speed was bound up. The amateur rust repairs were the worst feature on it though. I have heard horror stories of people buying cars on eBay, and having them shipped to them, only to discover that the cars were a mess, but looked good in photos. At least at a regular car auction, you can look at the car in person! But can you test drive it? I don't think so. Don Scott 1991 Miata SE BRG 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT 1962 TR4 (searching for) At 02:33 PM 01/24/2009, you wrote: >Don, I forgot to mention they are 100% checked out by B/J before excepting >into the auction, no flaws to these cars if they make it to the block >========================================================================================================= >----- Original Message ----- From: "don" >To: >Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 4:21 PM >Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson > > >>That was a bargain compared to the TR4 that sold at auction for $97,200! >>Auction fever cause these high prices? Hard to imagine paying that much >>for a car and not being able to really check it out very well either. >> >> http://www.classicautomotiverestoration.com/triumph.html >> >> >>Don Scott >>1991 Miata SE BRG >>1962 MGA Mk II >>1973 MGB GT >>1962 TR4 (searching for) >> >> >>-- -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.10/1903 - Release Date: 01/19/2009 8:52 PM From brad.kahler at 141.com Sat Jan 24 16:18:57 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 15:18:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] Free fresh Gal of Chem-dip available in Pasadena or surrounding area Message-ID: <497BA1E1.5060608@141.com> I'm cleaning the last remnants out of my apartment in Pasadena prior to heading home after a year long temporary assignment. I have a gallon can of Berryman's Chem-Dip carburetor cleaner that was used to clean two carburetors. They weren't really dirty so the gallon is actually quite clean. If you live anywhere Pasadena CA and would like to have it let me know and its yours. Brad (homeward bound!) From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sun Jan 25 12:09:16 2009 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 12:09:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday Message-ID: A young lady pulled out of a parking lot and right into the passenger side of my TR6 Wednesday while I was driving down the road. No one was hurt. The car will now have an official "blemish" on Carfax. Anyone have any luck on being compensated for the reduced value of their car? If so how did you deterning the amount? She caught the me just at the back of the passenger door depressing it in and leaving a crease and the rear quarter panel is destroyed. Pulled it into the rear wheel well starting at right behind the door and up to the wheel well. It put a 2" hole in the tire and putting a small dent in the rim right at where the tire seals against it. I had to bend the fender out of the way to remove it from the tire and make space to get the spare on. The passenger door is now rubbing on the post when you open and close it, the gap at the front of the door is now closed some at the bottom of the door, I've got the steering wheel turned 1/8 of a turn to the right to keep the car strait and on the way home on the freeway the car floated all over the lane I was in at 60 MPH. The police officer was very professional, he even offer to give me a lift with my under inflated spare to a gas station to fill it with air and bring me back to the car but it ended up to have enough air to get me the 1/4 block to an air compressor. When it was time to leave I need to make a left turn from the right lane to get to the gas station I had just passed so he pulled his cruiser out into the street and stopped traffic so I could safely make the left turn. I had looked at her car while I was approach the drive she was coming out of and she was at a complete stop. After I got almost even with her she pulled out and right into me. I am thankful she gave me a little time before trying to converse with me other than "Are you alright" and "I'll call the police". I know she could could tell how upset I was. She later told me she has a 66 Chevelle and would be very upset if someone hit her 66 like she had just done to me. I did calm down after a minute or two and even managed to inquire about her and her dog's well being. Her car was leaking a little fluid so I popped the hood made sure the radiator was OK and showed her that is was only the windshield washer fluid that was dripping, even helped her gather up the front end parts of her car that were scattered all over. She balked a little when I was going to fold her front bumper in half to fit in her trunk until she realized it was trash anyway and I wasn't hurting it any more than it already was. Put the car up on jack stands yesterday and got under the car. The only damage I can see under the car is the outside trailing arm bracket is now U shaped but the frame where it's attached looks OK. Explains at least some of the alignment issues. Now waiting for the adjuster to call and make an appointment to come to the house as I refused to drive it to their center. She has Allstate insurance. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From wbmcleod at gmail.com Sun Jan 25 14:20:46 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 14:20:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mystery socket Message-ID: I'm sitting here with a 3/4" drive socket sized 2 3/8" that I want to put on ebay. What's it for? Thanks, Bill From wbmcleod at gmail.com Sun Jan 25 14:44:57 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 14:44:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spridgets] Mystery socket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <04AC6FCB-BB0C-4D10-B554-DD6D9262FB28@gmail.com> Well, I've got those! On Jan 25, 2009, at 2:38 PM, Billy Zoom wrote: >> I'm sitting here with a 3/4" drive socket sized 2 3/8" that I want to >> put on ebay. What's it for? > Big nuts. From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Sun Jan 25 16:12:43 2009 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 17:12:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Headrest Foam Message-ID: <6EFD8A53-9E6D-4287-B945-11161F73CD2C@sbcglobal.net> I'm in the process of rebuilding my seats and am wondering what anyone has done for replacement foam for the headrests? I have the replacement covers but there is no foam left in my old headrests. Canley Classics is the only place I have found the foam on line that sells just the foam. I this my only option? Thanks Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 25 17:16:22 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 16:16:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090126001622.TOSX15744.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > The car will now have an official > "blemish" on Carfax. Really? Last time I checked, they couldn't even handle a Triumph commission number, only a 17 digit VIN. Sorry to hear about your car, Marty. The insurance company has a legal obligation to "make you whole", which should mean that they pay to fix the car as good as it was before. I doubt they are going to cover a drop in value due to a repaired accident unless you can make a very good case as to exactly how much the drop is (ie a professional appraisal before and after). One other thing, be sure to have the frame checked for straightness. Frequently even a substantial 'tweak' is not obvious until you start making measurements. If it is distorted, you could probably make a case that it should be replaced. Of course, there is always the risk that they may total the car instead ... Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Jan 25 17:24:59 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 19:24:59 EST Subject: [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday Message-ID: In a message dated 1/25/2009 4:17:20 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Really? Last time I checked, they couldn't even handle a Triumph commission number, only a 17 digit VIN. Sorry to hear about your car, Marty. The insurance company has a legal obligation to "make you whole", which should mean that they pay to fix the car as good as it was before. I doubt they are going to cover a drop in value due to a repaired accident unless you can make a very good case as to exactly how much the drop is (ie a professional appraisal before and after). One other thing, be sure to have the frame checked for straightness. Frequently even a substantial 'tweak' is not obvious until you start making measurements. If it is distorted, you could probably make a case that it should be replaced. Of course, there is always the risk that they may total the car instead ... Randall _______________________________________________ I don't know wo your insurance company is; but if its classic car insurance, I'd get them involved and not let Allstate push you around. I had a minor accident with one of my Jaguars, and Hagertys could not do enough to make sure it was repaired properly. I have Allstate insurance on my other cars, and they have been very good about earthquake damage, but I would not expect them to pay thekindof bill I had on my E Type for such small damage. Best, Mike Moore TR3A, S1 E Type Engineering Manager CL Moore & Associates, Inc. 17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill, California 95037 408-782-1272 fax 408-782-1372 **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 25 17:42:29 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 19:42:29 EST Subject: [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday Message-ID: Marty, I accidentally deleted your original post. I am a bit confused as to what you have asked about the insurance company and the value of your car. I assume you have insured with one of the companies specializing in collector cars. As I see it, one of two things are going to happen. Either the cost of repairs is going to be less than the declared value and the car will be repaired (you will be made whole, as Randall has pointed out) or the cost of repairs will exceed the definition of total and it will be declared a total loss and you will be paid out the declared value. The car will now have a salvage value. I have known this to happen in the past (I have not done it) where you buy the car from the insurance company for the salvage value which will be considerably less than the declared value (hopefully). Go to RATCO buy a frame and make yourself a new car. I think your concern about CarFax is overstated. Where I have known the owner to buy for salvage value, the insurance company was delighted as they had very little to deal with in terms of a totaled car. Money changes hands and the insurance company walks away without having to dispose of the car. Maybe different insurance companies view this differently but I have seen this happen. There must be a lister with experience in this. BTW I am sorry. This must be misery. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 25 18:02:12 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 17:02:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090126010212.QUSN28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I don't know wo your insurance company is; but if its classic > car insurance, I'd get them involved That is excellent advice, even if you don't have "classic" insurance (assuming you do have collision coverage). They will explain the financial options to you, help you get estimates, and if you choose to do so, pay to have the car repaired (and then go after the other company to cover it). Dunno about Allstate, but a friend of mine has his Lotus insured with Mercury as a regular car. Someone backed into it in a parking lot, and Mercury is paying over $13K for repairs. If they manage to find the responsible party (it was hit and run, car is registered to a holding company) he'll get back his deductible. Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jan 25 18:29:05 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 20:29:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines Message-ID: I know that has come up before but I thought I'd post it again. When bleeding new brake and clutch lines for the first time (i.e. there is no fluif in the lines), what seems to be the best method? This is for my '59 TR3A restoration. I have filled up both of the reservoirs, and all is holding so far. I tried to draw the fluid to the right rear brakes, being furthest from the cylinder, using a mitivac, but cannot get the fluif to come through the line. Do I need to recruit my wife and have her depress the brake pedal with her hands (no seats installed yet) as discussed recently? I have not tried the clutch yet. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 25 19:17:53 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 18:17:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090126021754.WCJO15744.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Do I need to recruit my > wife and have her depress the brake pedal with her hands (no > seats installed yet) as discussed recently? My suggestion would be to temporarily install something, even if it's only a milk crate. It's awkward and unpleasant to have to reach under there with your hands. However, as I've never had any luck using the Mityvac method either, I would suggest getting help to bleed the brakes the old-fashioned way. Also, if you did not fill the master cylinders with fluid beforehand, you may need to loosen the outlet fitting until you get some fluif worked through them. > I have not tried the clutch yet. For the clutch, I have always been able to work the air out while sitting in the driver's seat. Pump the pedal as high as you can get it, then hold it to the floor for a count of ten, and release it. Wait a few seconds, then try again. Two or three cycles of this has always been enough for me (assuming the MC was filled as above). And do something nice for your XYL afterwards, like hang that plant or whatever. Dinner out wouldn't hurt either. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 25 19:19:07 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 18:19:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090126021908.WCZP15744.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I tried to draw the fluid to the right rear brakes, being > furthest from the cylinder, PS, if you follow the lines, I think you'll find that the left rear is farthest from the MC, as the fluif flows. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 25 20:13:06 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 22:13:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <497CE3F2.14784.9C7047@localhost> On 25 Jan 2009 at 20:29, Scott Suhring wrote: > When bleeding new brake and clutch lines for the first time > (i.e. there is no fluif in the lines), what seems to be the > best method? Don't know about best, but when I installed new brake lines on my Spitfire a few years ago I didn't do anything special. I just put pressure on the pedal (I used a board propped between the seat and the pedal, some people prefer to use a wife) and opened then closed a valve. Don't even recall what order I did the wheels. It took a while because I could get only one pedal stroke without having to get up from the wheel and do it again, but it got done nevertheless. Centering the PDWADAWPDA (Actual Pressure Warning Differential Warning Pedal Difference, or something, probably not in that order) took a few extra iterations but wasn't hard. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 25 20:18:27 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 22:18:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines In-Reply-To: <20090126021754.WCJO15744.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: Message-ID: <497CE533.27475.A156DB@localhost> On 25 Jan 2009 at 18:17, Randall wrote: > For the clutch, I have always been able to work the air out > while sitting in the driver's seat. Without doing anything to the slave cylinder itself? > Pump the pedal as high as you can get it, then hold it to the > floor for a count of ten, and release it. Wait a few seconds, > then try again. Pray, what does it mean, pump the pedal as high as you can get it? Let me guess how this works. Any air in the system rises to the top of the line, then is forces further out when you release the pedal? It then bubbles itself out the top of the MC? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jan 25 20:24:17 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 22:24:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mystery socket In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <497CE691.20531.A6AB2C@localhost> On 25 Jan 2009 at 14:20, William McLeod wrote: > I'm sitting here with a 3/4" drive socket sized 2 3/8" that I > want to put on ebay. What's it for? Good question. The obvious answer is 2 3/8" nuts. The crank pulley nut is 1 13/16" on a Spitfire. If you find out, let us know. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 25 20:28:05 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 22:28:05 EST Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines Message-ID: In a message dated 1/25/2009 10:13:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: (I used a board propped between the seat and the pedal, some people prefer to use a wife) Ouch! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 25 20:36:37 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 19:36:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] Mystery socket In-Reply-To: <497CE691.20531.A6AB2C@localhost> Message-ID: <20090126033637.TTPZ28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > The crank > pulley nut is 1 13/16" on a Spitfire. Hmm, the rear wheel bearing nuts on my Stags are 2-1/16", while the ones on my motorhome were 2-9/16". Maybe something between those two extremes? Randall From sahkanaga at gmail.com Sun Jan 25 20:37:29 2009 From: sahkanaga at gmail.com (Joe Wilson) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 21:37:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson Message-ID: I was at the Barrett-Jackson auction and I believe there were only two Triumphs there. A 1971 Spitfire that sold for $9900, and a 1959 TR3A which had the rear fenders widened and wide racing tires installed. It went for $16500. Joe W 59 TR3A From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sun Jan 25 20:39:04 2009 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 20:39:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday In-Reply-To: <20090126010212.QUSN28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090126010212.QUSN28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Sound like I better get Hagerty involved. Thanks everyone for the help! Marty On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 6:02 PM, Randall wrote: > > I don't know who your insurance company is; but if its classic > > car insurance, I'd get them involved > > That is excellent advice, even if you don't have "classic" insurance > (assuming you do have collision coverage). They will explain the financial > options to you, help you get estimates, and if you choose to do so, pay to > have the car repaired (and then go after the other company to cover it). > > Dunno about Allstate, but a friend of mine has his Lotus insured with > Mercury as a regular car. Someone backed into it in a parking lot, and > Mercury is paying over $13K for repairs. If they manage to find the > responsible party (it was hit and run, car is registered to a holding > company) he'll get back his deductible. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 25 20:52:53 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 19:52:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines In-Reply-To: <497CE533.27475.A156DB@localhost> Message-ID: <20090126035253.WXUK16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Without doing anything to the slave cylinder itself? Right. Don't touch the slave or even jack the car up. > > Pump the pedal as high as you can get it, then hold it to the floor > > for a count of ten, and release it. Wait a few seconds, then try > > again. > > Pray, what does it mean, pump the pedal as high as you can get it? Not sure if I can explain. But if you've ever driven a car that was low on hydraulic fluid, this may sound familiar. With lots of air in the system, one stroke of the pedal won't move the slave at all. But if you quickly let the pedal up and stab it again, you may get a little action. The point at which the slave starts to move can be felt through the pedal, as the pedal force comes up to a peak at the point the slave starts to move, and then stays relatively constant as the slave pushes against the TOB & pressure plate. Repeat the fast release and stab (aka pump) several times, until the "breakover" point doesn't come any higher. > Let me guess how this works. Any air in the system rises to > the top of the line, then is forces further out when you > release the pedal? > It then bubbles itself out the top of the MC? That's my theory, anyway. But looking into the reservoir during the process isn't a particularly good idea, as you're apt to get a faceful. It makes quite a fountain, especially if there is any air in the system. This method is definitely unorthodox, and I don't promise it will always work. But so far it has always worked for me (did the 56 TR3 just a few weeks ago). If it doesn't work for you, you've not lost much; it only takes a couple of minutes to try and you haven't even gotten your hands dirty yet. Oh, one more thing, if the pedal feels like you've hit bottom (suddenly hard), don't force it any farther. You've probably reached the end of the stroke. Randall From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sun Jan 25 21:22:31 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 20:22:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] brake pressure differential switch Message-ID: <669613.95410.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Speaking of the pressure differential warning switches.............PDWA whateverrrr.......... are they available anywhere new? or used? or................whatever? I think my tr-6 one is shot and not sure what to do now. I think its stuck in the center so maybe just best left alone? thanks gary n From wbmcleod at gmail.com Sun Jan 25 21:26:11 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 21:26:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spridgets] Mystery socket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You can herd seals? Bill On Jan 25, 2009, at 9:18 PM, Mjsprite at aol.com wrote: > Used as a seal driver. > Mike > > A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! From mrv8q at aim.com Sun Jan 25 21:28:38 2009 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 23:28:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] brake pressure differential switch In-Reply-To: <669613.95410.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <669613.95410.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CB4D85B1F81CDB-1740-2167@FWM-M16.sysops.aol.com> There's a used one on eBay right now; No longer stocked by TRF.... Moss has the o-ring rebuild kit. Best, Kevin Browne -----Original Message----- From: Gary Nafziger To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 8:22 pm Subject: [TR] brake pressure differential switch Speaking of the pressure differential warning switches.............PDWA whateverrrr.......... are they available anywhere new? or used? or................whatever? I think my tr-6 one is shot and not sure what to do now. I think its stuck in the center so maybe just best left alone? thanks gary n ______ From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jan 25 22:27:46 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 22:27:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <705751.4333.qm@web30001.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <705751.4333.qm@web30001.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <74C4305D149841EDAA523AD553085798@sniffer> Hello List, Bill P is looking for a tranny for his 1974 Spit... Any thoughts? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bill postma Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 2:19 PM To: Bmcu at autox.team.net Subject: [Bmcu] (no subject) i am in need of a transmission for my 1974 triumph spitfire. how do i get my message out there so the other members could possibly help..If you can help i would appreciate it. thanks BILL _______________________________________________ Bmcu mailing list Bmcu at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.13/1914 - Release Date: 1/24/2009 8:40 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 25 23:30:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 22:30:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <74C4305D149841EDAA523AD553085798@sniffer> Message-ID: <20090126063014.ZBXA22141.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Bill P is looking for a tranny for his 1974 Spit... Any thoughts? How would I recognize one if I saw it? There's a small Triumph gearbox in my backyard that was a leftover from my aborted Sports 6 project. Randall From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Sun Jan 25 23:48:11 2009 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 07:48:11 +0100 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Electronic Ignition Experience In-Reply-To: <528000.60996.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Not necessarily, Bruce. http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7296 Best regards Eric Bruce Simms wrote: I've had a Crane electronic ignition for 8 years. Smooth and rock solid reliability. From previous discussion, reliability with Petronix appears to be different. Its a small black box unit, so folks concerned with looking original may not like Crane. I seem to need to sand down the rear top edge of my rotor to avoid interference with this system. That's been the only hassle. Do it again?, gee a Mallory electronic distributor with adjustable advance would be sweet, but you also need an electric tach. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jan 25 23:56:02 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 22:56:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] brake pressure differential switch In-Reply-To: <669613.95410.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090126065601.YRXJ16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Speaking of the pressure differential warning > switches.............PDWA whateverrrr.......... are they > available anywhere new? or used? Are you looking for just the switch, or the whole assembly? The assembly is painfully expensive (when you can find them) but can be rebuilt if you are lucky enough to have a later one that uses O-ring seals. I've got an article on converting the earlier ones to use O-rings, write me off-list if you want a copy. TRF seems to have just the switch listed for $65 (P/N GI64677381); but I think somewhere I've got a note stashed away that there is a Ford part that will fit. Rimmers has them listed for 14.55GBP, which is just a bit over $20 (but probably about the same as TRF once you pay for shipping). > I think its stuck in the center so > maybe just best left alone? They are supposed to be fairly stiff, so yours may not be stuck. Randall From wbmcleod at gmail.com Mon Jan 26 00:05:23 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 00:05:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spridgets] Mystery socket In-Reply-To: <497D487A.5040505@comcast.net> References: <497D487A.5040505@comcast.net> Message-ID: Well, now that I think on it, I heard seals one time near San Fransisco.... As to that other, I better not say anything. On Jan 25, 2009, at 10:22 PM, Frank Clarici wrote: > William McLeod wrote: >> You can herd seals? >> >> > I have heard of people *blowing seals* From wbmcleod at gmail.com Mon Jan 26 00:08:37 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 00:08:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <74C4305D149841EDAA523AD553085798@sniffer> References: <705751.4333.qm@web30001.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <74C4305D149841EDAA523AD553085798@sniffer> Message-ID: <23CDAB5C-AB67-4726-9DDA-587A198BEEF9@gmail.com> I have one in Tucson behind a 1500 I pulled out of a car. Condition is unknown, but thought to be OK.... Bill McLeod Slightly Classics On Jan 25, 2009, at 10:27 PM, wbeech wrote: > Hello List, > > Bill P is looking for a tranny for his 1974 Spit... Any thoughts? > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is > called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: bmcu-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:bmcu- > bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of bill postma > Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 2:19 PM > To: Bmcu at autox.team.net > Subject: [Bmcu] (no subject) > > i am in need of a transmission for my 1974 triumph spitfire. how do > i get my > message out there so the other members could possibly help..If you > can help > i would appreciate it. thanks BILL > _______________________________________________ > > > Bmcu mailing list > Bmcu at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/bmcu > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.13/1914 - Release Date: > 1/24/2009 > 8:40 PM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbmcleod at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jan 26 05:35:15 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 07:35:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] brake pressure differential switch In-Reply-To: <669613.95410.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <497D67B3.21061.29F1945@localhost> On 25 Jan 2009 at 20:22, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I think its stuck in the center so maybe just best left alone? What exactly leads you to think there is something wrong with it? The most common problem is for it to be stuck over to one side, keeping the brake warning light lit. PO's have been known to solve that by unplugging the wire, which means the oil pressure light won't come on either, seeing as how they are wired together at least on some cars. With any other failure mode except leaking, unless you experienced brake failure and it didn't come on, you wouldn't know. Even so, it takes a pretty healthy pressure differential to actuate the warning. The problem then is how to re-center it. If it is corroded or gummed up inside, the piston will be stuck and it won't re-center easily. There isn't much to one. Disassembly is easy. Re-assembly too. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Jan 26 06:47:09 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 07:47:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spridgets] Mystery socket References: <497D487A.5040505@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9E4F3B4387654FC58733FF408F2C56BE@KARL> http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1149762/monkey_tells_joke/ > Well, now that I think on it, I heard seals one time near San > Fransisco.... > As to that other, I better not say anything. >>> You can herd seals? >>> >>> >> I have heard of people *blowing seals* From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jan 26 07:23:09 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:23:09 EST Subject: [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday Message-ID: Marty, Very sad news and certainly good that no one was injured. One of our club members had an unfortunate similar incident last fall when a woman in an SUV talking on a cell phone pulled out of a diner and caught the front passenger wing of his TR2 and proceeded to extend the damage down the whole side of the car while pushing him across another lane into a concrete barrier. He was okay but the TR2 was totaled. My advice from his experience and a few of my own.......any concern (sincere or otherwise) shown by the other driver has to be tempered with a great deal of reality checks - YOU are the victim, YOU deserve full compensation. No, I am not a lawyer just a guy who believes in the old adage: "the cost causer pays". Take your car to a reputable and respected British car restoration & service shop and have it checked over thoroughly by experts. It wouldn't surprise me if the other driver's insurance company wanted to send their adjuster out to make an appraisal on your car but it's very doubtful that this appraiser has done many antique cars let alone British stuff so the result wouldn't be very realistic. From the way you described the handling on the highway after the collision, I'm guessing that the rear suspension on the passenger side and/or frame may be damaged or compromised to some extent. Good luck, have patience. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jan 26 07:28:32 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:28:32 EST Subject: [TR] Mystery socket Message-ID: Bill, It may not be "car-related".....I have something like that in my tool box and I think I bought it years ago for a plumbing job around the house.....could it be for a nut which is recessed behind a shower diverter valve (behind the bathtub)??? Any plumbers out there, feel free to comment:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 1/25/2009 4:22:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wbmcleod at gmail.com writes: What's it for? **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 26 07:42:51 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:42:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Mystery socket In-Reply-To: <20090126033637.TTPZ28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <497CE691.20531.A6AB2C@localhost> <20090126033637.TTPZ28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: > Hmm, the rear wheel bearing nuts on my Stags are 2-1/16", while the ones on> my motorhome were 2-9/16". Maybe something between those two extremes?> > Randall I think the Beech Bonanza E-35 main gear wheel nut is about 2-3/8". John H. From cak at dimebank.com Mon Jan 26 07:57:09 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 06:57:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines Message-ID: <200901261457.n0QEv9Ll027118@moose.dimebank.com> Over in another automotive universe (porsche 911), they worry about pumping the pedal to bleed brakes because this tends to force the seals in the master to go into the area of the bore that is not usually "wet", but rather may have corroded - and that corrosion may damage the seals. I'd never heard of this concern before, and it seems a bit bogus, but I'm passing it along. Many years back I learned a completely different method for bleeding, which requires only patience and gravity: fill the master, and attach to the bleed nipple at the "farthest" slave a long clear tube which is taped upward on the car, so the end of the tube is higher than the reservoir. Open the bleed. Wait until the level in the tube is about the same as the reservoir. Close the bleed, repeat at the other three wheels. You can do all four at once this way. I usually use a pair of bleed bottles, doing one axle at a time: I arrange the tube going into the bottle so there's a high point where I can watch the bubbles. This version requires that I pay attention to the fluid level in the master, though. Best, chris From wbmcleod at gmail.com Mon Jan 26 08:01:33 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 08:01:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mystery socket In-Reply-To: References: <497CE691.20531.A6AB2C@localhost> <20090126033637.TTPZ28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Well! Sell the socket.... Buy the airplane.... It's a no-brainer! Lets see...yellow pages....plane sales.... Bill On Jan 26, 2009, at 7:42 AM, John Herrera wrote: >> > > I think the Beech Bonanza E-35 main gear wheel nut is about 2-3/8". > > John H. > _______________________________________________ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Jan 26 10:09:01 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 10:09:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines In-Reply-To: <20090126021754.WCJO15744.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090126021754.WCJO15744.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901260909p2152182dxa00cb7b7a403a23@mail.gmail.com> On 1/25/09, Randall wrote: > My suggestion would be to temporarily install something, even if it's only a > milk crate. It's awkward and unpleasant to have to reach under there with > your hands. Actually, with the seats in a TR so low, a pop case works well. If prefer Frank's Root Beer: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/franks.JPG And yes, it can be driven that way (though you have to hang onto the steering wheel to remain upright). From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jan 26 11:11:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 10:11:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines In-Reply-To: <200901261457.n0QEv9Ll027118@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200901261457.n0QEv9Ll027118@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <087101c97fe1$8fa341a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Over in another automotive universe (porsche 911), they worry about > pumping > the pedal to bleed brakes because this tends to force the seals in > the master to go into the area of the bore that is not usually "wet", Doesn't seem right to me. How can the bottom of the bore not be "wet"? Unused, perhaps, but covered with fluid. > Many years back I learned a completely different method for bleeding, > which requires only patience and gravity: That is very interesting. How does it get the air out of the high spots? Randall From bkharding at verizon.net Mon Jan 26 13:53:31 2009 From: bkharding at verizon.net (bkharding at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 14:53:31 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson Message-ID: <1216814426.61663501233003211976.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> The TR3A sold at the Russo and Steele Auction. It was a very nice TR3A although I'm sure the previous owner was happy as it sold for much more then the reserve. It looked like the car was purchased by man for his daughter...and I think it really was his daughter as there was a woman with them that looked to be the same age as the man. The new owner seemed really excited! Bruce Harding From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jan 26 16:15:53 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 23:15:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A sold at Barrett-Jackson In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <454465515.292351233011753213.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hmmm...B I believe it was Randall who suggested a few postings ago that, for a wife who helped with brake bleeding, we should hang a plant for her, or better take her to dinner. I gave it passing thought.B Glad that was all. The New York Times this Sunday, in the Automobile section, page 9, bottom spread, has a picture of the $9,000 1961 Triumph TR3A that wen tat the Barrettp-Jackson event.B I showed it to my wife tonight, who promptly responded,B "Sell it, pay off the garage, take me on a cruise." Guess I'm going to have to comply.B I'll buy her a canoe and start negotiations from there. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667...still and forever in my possession) New Hampshire >I was at the Barrett-Jackson auction and I believe there were only two >Triumphs there. B A 1971 Spitfire that sold for $9900, and a 1959 TR3A which >had the rear fenders widened and wide racing tires installed. B It went for >$16500. From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Jan 26 16:21:21 2009 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 18:21:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines References: <20090126021754.WCJO15744.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <7bb181af0901260909p2152182dxa00cb7b7a403a23@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <004f01c9800c$cedbe450$6401a8c0@STATION6> George, Aren't those Frank's crates collectors item. I have a can of Frank's Black Wisniak soda in my bookcase. (unopened) Has to be 20 years old. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 12:09 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Bleeding new Brake lines > On 1/25/09, Randall wrote: >> My suggestion would be to temporarily install something, even if it's >> only a >> milk crate. It's awkward and unpleasant to have to reach under there >> with >> your hands. > > Actually, with the seats in a TR so low, a pop case works well. If > prefer Frank's Root Beer: > > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/franks.JPG > > And yes, it can be driven that way (though you have to hang onto the > steering wheel to remain upright). From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Jan 26 19:02:08 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 21:02:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Paul's Pawls: 2 questions Message-ID: <004001c98023$4356ea30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am ashamed to admit that I have had two good TR3 control heads that now are messed up due to "the Dorsey Factor". I am not ready to give up on the second one. Now that I've got it open... let me ask: (1.) Exactly how does the two pawls work so as to cancel the turn signals? I know the come in contact with either of the two cast abuttments in the steering wheel cavity. I also know that their positioning is critical for the turn signals to cancel. I've borrowed FT's video that shows the direction they are to sit in. But, how do they work? Also, at the base of the control head's trifficator is a tiny plunger w/ spring and rolling wheel (tiny). I know that the wheel rides in a small grove so as 'pop out' (temporaily) when the turn signal's are turned so that they are activated. But, (2) Does anyone know if the pawls make contact with the tiny wheel? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.9 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 951 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Tue Jan 27 07:32:36 2009 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 06:32:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Radiator Paint - little LBC Message-ID: <000001c9808c$19ce0a40$4d6a1ec0$@rr.com> I'm interested in spiffing up my engine compartment and want to renew the look of the radiator. I read somewhere that the paint used on radiators is different than the normal enamel or acrylic, even the high temp ones. So, what's special about it? Is the paint used on barbeques the same stuff? I saw it on Eastwood's website at $12 bucks a can . pretty pricey. Pep Boys didn't carry it. Does NAPA? Thanks, Johnnie '67 TR4A From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Jan 27 14:16:41 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 14:16:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator Paint - little LBC In-Reply-To: <000001c9808c$19ce0a40$4d6a1ec0$@rr.com> References: <000001c9808c$19ce0a40$4d6a1ec0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901271316o62d9b3e4s5928f67ee7ba7e6@mail.gmail.com> Something is amiss, maybe it's me as I have seen only one post in the past 12 hours... so my apologies if this has already been mentioned: I do not think the issue is heat tolerance (200F isn't all that hot) but rather a paint that does not build thick and thus insulate the rad which must be able to disipate heat. I would imagine that a paint specifically for radiators would go on quite thin. I think I have seen in hobby shops a black paint used by guys with little brass locomotives that is real thin (to preserve small details in the casting). It is almost like ink. Thin, very black and dries almost instantly -- like the ink of a black marker. That might be a local alternative. Geo On 1/27/09, John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > I'm interested in spiffing up my engine compartment and want to renew the > look of the radiator. I read somewhere that the paint used on radiators is > different than the normal enamel or acrylic, even the high temp ones. So, > what's special about it? Is the paint used on barbeques the same stuff? From dconnitt at fuse.net Tue Jan 27 14:57:01 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:57:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wire harness Message-ID: Hi, Does anybody know if Dan Masters is still supplying his wiring harnesses? I would like to install one in my TR4A. I tried leaving a email on his website but no reply. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Jan 27 16:29:04 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 18:29:04 EST Subject: [TR] Compression Ratios TR250 Heads Message-ID: Hey Guys, The 250's engine is in pieces as part of the ongoing rebuild. I am sort of at a decision point on the cylinder head. Current head original to the motor is 3.420" and the block is bored .030 over. They are telling me that this is giving a compression ratio of 9.5 to 1. We will need to bore the original block to .040 which would raise the compression to 9.7 to 1. My goal with this Triumph is to build a stock motor. Previously the 250 was pretty powerful from 3,000 revs to the redline. It was fun and I tore it up pretty good. It was also impossible to tune for an acceptable idle. With the stock goal in mind, I have been given the following options. An uncut 69 early TR6 head is available for rebuild which is claimed to return the compression to the desired stock 8.5 to 1. Actually I believe stock may have been 8.6 to 1. Those heads would be the same correct? This claim seems to omit the oversize bore as a function of compression? Confused about that. Also what if the block has been decked? Should I inquire? Also I have asked for a stock grind on the camshaft. Would that profile effect compression? In addition I have a complete TR250 motor from another car that has never been touched but numbers don't match my car. Too many choices and I don't want to regret what get's done so I would appreciate the advantage of having the wisdom of the List. Thanks in Advance, Darrell **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Jan 27 16:33:25 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 23:33:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Radiator Paint - little LBC In-Reply-To: <831235699.707451233098678326.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <127549374.710491233099205386.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> On 1/27/09, John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > I'm interested in spiffing up my engine compartment and want to renew the > look of the radiator. B I read somewhere that the paint used on radiators is > different than the normal enamel or acrylic, even the high temp ones. So, > what's special about it? Is the paint used on barbeques the same stuff? As others have said, clearly enamel and acrylic won't dissipate heat as quickly. I used Rustoleum Barbecue paint on mine, not overgenerously, mind you, since you just want the color not the protection, and have had no overheating problems in four years of daily driving, even with a non-hooked vane water pump.B Then again, of course, after sitting outsideB through a New Hampshire winter, I'm thinking my little car has decided to refuse registering any such foohardy notion as overheating. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 27 16:48:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 15:48:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Compression Ratios TR250 Heads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0b9b01c980d9$b8b63fe0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > This claim seems to omit the > oversize bore as a function of compression? Confused about that. Also > what if > the block has been decked? Should I inquire? Darrell, I can't answer the question about TR250 head vs early TR6. But I would treat the compression claim with a large grain of salt, for exactly the reasons you mention. Both the overbore and the block decking (if any) will increase the compression ratio, unless something is modified to bring it back down. If the block has been line-bored, that may also affect piston height, and in turn compression. Plus of course, it may have even been off somewhat from the factory. > Also I have asked for a stock grind on the camshaft. Would that profile > effect compression? The camshaft profile will not alter the compression ratio; although it may change the number read with a compression gauge. However as a very rough rule of thumb, a 'performance' camshaft will usually cause the engine to tolerate a higher compression ratio better. > Too many > choices > and I don't want to regret what get's done so I would appreciate the > advantage of having the wisdom of the List. Personally, what I would do (given your goals) would be to look into having the combustion chambers opened up a bit, to bring the compression back down to 9:1. That should be plenty low to let you run on pump gas, and require relatively little modification to the head. Again I'm not familiar with the TR250 head, but certainly on a TR3, the chamber can be improved substantially that way. BTW, your idle problems before were almost certainly due to factors other than compression ratio. The camshaft is the biggest tradeoff between smooth idle and high performance; a high compression engine with a stock camshaft should still idle just fine. Randall From stantr6 at comcast.net Tue Jan 27 16:51:39 2009 From: stantr6 at comcast.net (stantr6 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 23:51:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Radiator Paint - little LBC In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901271316o62d9b3e4s5928f67ee7ba7e6@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <737646062.400211233100299470.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> All, The shop that re-cored my TR6 radiator painted it with a thinned / diluted black latex paint, very light on the core. Problem is that the steel parts will soon rust, so I re-painted the steel with Rustoleum. When he re-cored my jeep radiator, I asked him to paint only the core, which he did. I put Rustoleum on the rest of the radiator - they both run cool, and no rust on the support members. Stan 1974 TR6 1942 GPW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "John & Pat Donnelly" Cc: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 4:16:41 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Radiator Paint - little LBC Something is amiss, maybe it's me as I have seen only one post in the past 12 hours... so my apologies if this has already been mentioned: I do not think the issue is heat tolerance (200F isn't all that hot) but rather a paint that does not build thick and thus insulate the rad which must be able to disipate heat. I would imagine that a paint specifically for radiators would go on quite thin. I think I have seen in hobby shops a black paint used by guys with little brass locomotives that is real thin (to preserve small details in the casting). It is almost like ink. Thin, very black and dries almost instantly -- like the ink of a black marker. That might be a local alternative. Geo On 1/27/09, John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > I'm interested in spiffing up my engine compartment and want to renew the > look of the radiator. I read somewhere that the paint used on radiators is > different than the normal enamel or acrylic, even the high temp ones. So, > what's special about it? Is the paint used on barbeques the same stuff? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as stantr6 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 27 17:01:03 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 19:01:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Radiator Paint - little LBC In-Reply-To: <737646062.400211233100299470.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <737646062.400211233100299470.JavaMail.root@sz0153a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <200901271901.03694.yellowtr@adelphia.net> I have always used that glossy black engine paint that Advance Auto parts sells. It seems to be very thin and dries quickly. No problems with over-heating on either the 3 or 4. I plan to use it on the 6 project. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jan 27 17:02:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:02:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wire harness In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0baf01c980db$c52a59d0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Does anybody know if Dan Masters is still supplying his wiring harnesses? Dan has not been supplying them directly for several years. It was his son running Advance Auto Wire and supplying the harnesses; until he passed away last year. Dan wrote me to say that he was turning the business over to someone in Michigan; Steve Carrick according to the AAW web site. But I don't know anything about how that is going. I'd suggest you give Steve a call at 616-889-9707. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jan 27 17:49:42 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 17:49:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] 2000 Moss Catalog Message-ID: <31D3E1D1428046788F35C631D96ED235@sniffer> Am I missing something or is there a collector's market for the catalogs we get for free from the big 3? Just saw a 2000 Moss Triumph parts catalog on eBay for $9.99 + $4.00 S&H. eBay Item number: 220351355532 Have the folks in New Berlin, Wis discovered a new niche market? If so, I have a stack of catalogs from the 80s-90s that I would part with for a new set of tires and wires! (including a 1979 TRF cat) Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From ggelhar at earthlink.net Mon Jan 26 17:58:34 2009 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 18:58:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] 2000 Moss Catalog Message-ID: <380-22009122705834875@earthlink.net> Bill, I believe there is a collector out there for most anything ever made. The old catalogs don't surprise me. In fact I have a small collection of J. C. Whitney catalogs going back to the mid 1950's. Yes, they did have Triumph part listed back then. Fun to look at these days. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN > Am I missing something or is there a collector's market for the catalogs we > get for free from the big 3? Just saw a 2000 Moss Triumph parts catalog on > eBay for $9.99 + $4.00 S&H. eBay Item number: 220351355532 > > Have the folks in New Berlin, Wis discovered a new niche market? If so, I > have a stack of catalogs from the 80s-90s that I would part with for a new > set of tires and wires! (including a 1979 TRF cat) > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ggelhar at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Tue Jan 27 18:24:04 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 20:24:04 EST Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires Message-ID: All, I am planning to buy some Panasports for our newly purchased 1972 GT6. They are 13x5.5. What tires are those of you with the same set up running? Thanks for your help. Sam **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Jan 27 21:11:27 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 23:11:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? Message-ID: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> It is unfortunate, but ... didn't some state bar old cars because of their emissons? Obama isn't thinking about this, is he? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.9 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 951 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jan 27 21:34:19 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 23:34:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <497F99FB.24655.B8273F@localhost> On 27 Jan 2009 at 20:24, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > I am planning to buy some Panasports for our newly purchased 1972 > GT6. They are 13x5.5. What tires are those of you with the same > set up running? I have Cosmic MkII wheels, 13x5 I believe, and the tires are Bridgestone Potenza, 175/70. They look big and purposeful. They ride pretty well, and at the rate I'm wearing the tread away they will be bald by, oh, maybe 2035A.D. Maybe later. They are probably overkill. They do look purposeful though. Last year I put new tires on the Spitfire. Its wheels are the ubiquitous Minator (however it is spelt, and I think made by K&N), 13x5. I decided on 155/80 Spectrum. There aren't many options in those sizes. The tires feel pretty nice, track well, feel lighter than the big guys on the GT6 and in accordance with the character of the lighter, more nimble Spitfire. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jan 27 21:40:47 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 23:40:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires In-Reply-To: <497F99FB.24655.B8273F@localhost> References: Message-ID: <497F9B7F.20154.BE0FF1@localhost> On 27 Jan 2009 at 23:34, I wrote: > 13x5 I believe Come to think of it, I believe all my wheels are 13"x5.5" The original wheels were increased from 4.5" to 5" for the later Spitfires, and alloy upgrades were 5.5". The Cosmics on the GT6 are 5.5" too. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jan 27 21:53:03 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 21:53:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Unfortunately, 13 inch performance cars are becoming harder and harder to find. This is because most cars these days are coming with larger and larger rims. The exception is the cheap econo-boxes which nobody in his right mind would put performance tires onto. So lack of demand is causing the manufacturers to discontinue those sizes. I went to 15" Panasports on my Honda Powered Spit and mounted 205/50R15 KUHMO ECSTA Supra sport radials. The circumference is almost an axact match to the tires I have on my other Spit (Pirelli 175/70R13) so going to those should not radically affect your speedometer accuracy. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 6:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires All, I am planning to buy some Panasports for our newly purchased 1972 GT6. They are 13x5.5. What tires are those of you with the same set up running? Thanks for your help. Sam **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From don at napanet.net Tue Jan 27 22:54:18 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 21:54:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090127214554.032c1be8@pop.napanet.net> In my search for a TR4, this Chicago Craigslist car appeared. I would say that it is being offered by a very optimistic owner: "Frame off rstoration. This same car sold for $97,000 at Barrets Car Auction in Palm Beach in the winter of 2006. That car did not have the ralley side draft weber DCOE carbs, the front fender vents, aluminum fuel cell, mallory dual point distributor nor the high-torque starter ." http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/1009146663.html _____________________________________________ Don Scott 1991 Miata SE BRG 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT 1962 TR4 (searching for) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.13/1915 - Release Date: 01/25/2009 6:13 PM From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 27 23:50:13 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 00:50:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090127214554.032c1be8@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <004001c98116$9639be00$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> but he says its being offered for below market value, so it must be so! ----- Original Message ----- From: "don" To: Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 11:54 PM Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 > In my search for a TR4, this Chicago Craigslist car appeared. I would say > that it is being offered by a very optimistic owner: > > "Frame off rstoration. This same car sold for $97,000 at Barrets Car > Auction in Palm Beach in the winter of 2006. That car did not have the > ralley side draft weber DCOE carbs, the front fender vents, aluminum fuel > cell, mallory dual point distributor nor the high-torque starter ." > > http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/1009146663.html From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Jan 28 00:48:54 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 00:48:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 In-Reply-To: <004001c98116$9639be00$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090127214554.032c1be8@pop.napanet.net> <004001c98116$9639be00$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: One wonders if perhaps the owner was a hedge fund operator.... Bill Tucson On Jan 27, 2009, at 11:50 PM, oliver wrote: > but he says its being offered for below market value, so it must be > so! > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "don" > To: > Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 11:54 PM > Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 > > >> In my search for a TR4, this Chicago Craigslist car appeared. I >> would say that it is being offered by a very optimistic owner: >> >> "Frame off rstoration. This same car sold for $97,000 at Barrets >> Car Auction in Palm Beach in the winter of 2006. That car did not >> have the ralley side draft weber DCOE carbs, the front fender >> vents, aluminum fuel cell, mallory dual point distributor nor the >> high-torque starter ." >> >> http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/cto/1009146663.html > _______________________________________________ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 28 01:32:38 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 08:32:38 -0000 Subject: [TR] 2000 Moss Catalog References: <380-22009122705834875@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <801B5E22C4D949748CC0D8991495C371@Bevan> Greg Gelhar wrote: > I believe there is a collector out there for most anything ever made. I'll second that! About two years ago I opened a book and found a strange bookmarker inside. It was a single sheet of paper (approx 6"x4") and was nothing more than a temporary bus timetable for a three month period in 1932 in a remote corner of south-west England. I nearly threw it out and then remembered my son telling me he had seen someone selling a sachet of McDonalds tomato ketchup on eBay for a sum I now forget. Thinking again, it occurred to me that maybe someone might want the timetable, so I put it on ebay as well for a week. No bids at all until the last five minutes of the auction. Couldn't believe my eyes when the sale closed and I was about US$55 better off than I had been ten minutes earlier. That little exercise made me an eBay convert - there's always someone who'll pay good money for (almost) anything and I'm happy to relieve them of their funds :) Jonmac From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Jan 28 05:13:08 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:13:08 EST Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires Message-ID: Any clearance problems with a stock suspension? Sam In a message dated 1/27/2009 10:53:26 P.M. Central Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: Unfortunately, 13 inch performance cars are becoming harder and harder to find. This is because most cars these days are coming with larger and larger rims. The exception is the cheap econo-boxes which nobody in his right mind would put performance tires onto. So lack of demand is causing the manufacturers to discontinue those sizes. I went to 15" Panasports on my Honda Powered Spit and mounted 205/50R15 KUHMO ECSTA Supra sport radials. The circumference is almost an axact match to the tires I have on my other Spit (Pirelli 175/70R13) so going to those should not radically affect your speedometer accuracy. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 6:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires All, I am planning to buy some Panasports for our newly purchased 1972 GT6. They are 13x5.5. What tires are those of you with the same set up running? Thanks for your help. Sam **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Jan 28 05:42:51 2009 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:42:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Two summers ago I put a set of Sumitomo HTR T4 175/70R13 tires on my Spitfire's 13x5.5 rims and I really likes these tires. They are quiet, give good grip when autocrossing (at least I think they do) and are very good in the rain. I got caught in a down pour last summer and no hydroplaning, even with standing water on the road. I would definitely buy another set of these tire. Mark 76 TR7 80 Spitfire From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires I am planning to buy some Panasports for our newly purchased 1972 GT6. They are 13x5.5. What tires are those of you with the same set up running? Sam From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Jan 28 05:54:48 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:54:48 EST Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires Message-ID: Where did you find them? I can't find them on the Tire Rack's web site. Sam In a message dated 1/28/2009 6:42:55 A.M. Central Standard Time, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com writes: Two summers ago I put a set of Sumitomo HTR T4 175/70R13 tires on my Spitfire's 13x5.5 rims and I really likes these tires. They are quiet, give good grip when autocrossing (at least I think they do) and are very good in the rain. I got caught in a down pour last summer and no hydroplaning, even with standing water on the road. I would definitely buy another set of these tire. Mark 76 TR7 80 Spitfire From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires I am planning to buy some Panasports for our newly purchased 1972 GT6. They are 13x5.5. What tires are those of you with the same set up running? Sam **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 28 07:00:53 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 09:00:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wire harness In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6ACE20A179634113A10D3F8304DFEEB2@BOBSNEWPC> Dave, As Randall indicated Steve Carrick is now running the business and email is not his forte so a phone call is your best bet. Dan told me last week that he is still supplying support and helping Steve as best he can. He really wants the business to succeed in memory of his son Mike. Steve is trying to balance new orders with the back orders that never got shipped before Mike's death. Your best bet is to give him a call for order intervals. Hope that helps. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 4:57 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Dan Masters Wire harness Hi, Does anybody know if Dan Masters is still supplying his wiring harnesses? I would like to install one in my TR4A. I tried leaving a email on his website but no reply. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From McGaheyRx at aol.com Wed Jan 28 07:16:57 2009 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 09:16:57 EST Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 Message-ID: In a message dated 1/28/2009 1:05:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, don at napanet.net writes: In my search for a TR4, this Chicago Craigslist car appeared. I would say that it is being offered by a very optimistic owner: "Frame off rstoration. This same car sold for $97,000 at Barrets Car Auction in Palm Beach in the winter of 2006 the seller is going to need to find the same 2 guys who were bidding against each other at Barrett Jackson **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From jbbrozm at rocketmail.com Wed Jan 28 07:20:58 2009 From: jbbrozm at rocketmail.com (Joe The Bro) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 06:20:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR4 Transport Message-ID: <326316.23417.qm@web53011.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I need to move my 62 TR4 from Los Angeles (San Fernando Valley) CA to Vancouver WA. Can anyone on the list recommend a good(safe) company that transports cars. Thanks Joe From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jan 28 07:41:07 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 14:41:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1823407584.1969931233153667473.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote: > the seller is going to need to find the same 2 guys who were bidding > against > each other at Barrett Jackson One of those 2 guys has his car now. He will have to find the other guy and one more. Good luck with that. I'll take $40,000 for mine right now. Hell, for that, I will deliver it anywhere in the USA in the Spring. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Jan 28 07:46:09 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:46:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Transport In-Reply-To: <326316.23417.qm@web53011.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <326316.23417.qm@web53011.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Phillips Transport in Red Bluff (530) 529-0741 marymeed at sbcglobal.net transported my TR250 from Medford to Tucson, door to door, in fast time at an excellent price. Not a major company, just a 3car ramp trailer, but well done. Regards, Bill Tucson On Jan 28, 2009, at 7:20 AM, Joe The Bro wrote: > I need to move my 62 TR4 from Los Angeles (San Fernando Valley) CA > to Vancouver WA. > Can anyone on the list recommend a good(safe) company that > transports cars. > Thanks > Joe From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 28 08:56:58 2009 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:56:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] GT6 Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <830480.86572.qm@web81402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Discount tire has several brands in this size. Not Sumitomo but they do have Kuhmo. at $49.00 per tire. Search by size here www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTiresBySizeSection.do?r=INLINT%7Cpc%7C46041 WallyMart has Goodyears in this size. Shipped free to store near you. At our local store the price is $70.00 each plus mounting, balancing, etc. Here they are at tire rack. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR+T4&ve hicleSearch=false&partnum=77TR3HTRT4&fromCompare1=yes&place=3 John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (needs body work) '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway. --- On Wed, 1/28/09, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com > Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 Tires > To: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com, triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009, 7:54 AM > Where did you find them? I can't find them on the Tire > Rack's web site. > > Sam From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 28 09:14:45 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 08:14:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] su carbs Message-ID: <563619.96435.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> i have a tr6 su carb conversion redone by joe curto asking 350.00 with linkage [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Picture nicholas 006.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Picture nicholas 005.jpg] From triumphstag at gmail.com Wed Jan 28 09:19:24 2009 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 08:19:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] Is a cylinder head rebuild a DIY job? Message-ID: I have a spare stag head that I'll like to fix myself. I can check it for being flat at work. I have new valves for it, but do I need special tools to make them seat properely? I'm in the US, but the head came from a UK car and I'm not sure if the original valves can tolerate unleaded fuel. What other things would I need to look out for? Thanks, Sujit From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jan 28 09:42:07 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 16:42:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] TV sighting. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I watch Chasing Classic Cars on the HD Theater channel whenever I can catch it. There is one episode that reruns often where they go to an avacado farm to look at a collection of old cars. Watching the rerun the other day I saw that one of the guys was pulling a familiar trailer. It was my old car trailer from when I was racing. Nice to see it is still being put to good use. Best regards, Tom > From: McGaheyRx at aol.com > Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 09:16:57 -0500 > To: don at napanet.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] $45,000 TR4 > > In a message dated 1/28/2009 1:05:34 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > don at napanet.net writes: > > In my search for a TR4, this Chicago Craigslist car appeared. I would say > that it is being offered by a very optimistic owner: > > "Frame off rstoration. This same car sold for $97,000 at Barrets Car > Auction in Palm Beach in the winter of 2006 > > > > > the seller is going to need to find the same 2 guys who were bidding against > each other at Barrett Jackson > **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay > up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_howit works_012009 From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Jan 28 10:05:06 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 10:05:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Moss Motors Message-ID: Would someone remind me of the name / contact point for our guru at Moss Motors? I have a friend who would like to contact him about selling things to Moss. Thanks, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson From thomasb at queensu.ca Wed Jan 28 10:08:13 2009 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 12:08:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] ORIGINAL TR8 Distributor Wanted Message-ID: <0KE6009TNY9RGJ60@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi all, As some of you know, last fall on the trip to Stowe, a wire in the distributor pick-up assembly failed. This is part number AAU2075 and is NLA. I have a CRANE kit to modify a stock distributor, but the spare dizzy I wanted to use this kit on will not take the kit. This is an original electronic distributor that was in my TR8 when I bought it in 1986 but the DPO had converted it to POINTS. Wanting to keep the failed distributor in tact in the unlikely event I eventually luck onto a NEW pickup assembly, I'm wondering if any of you have an original (unaltered) distributor you no longer need and are willing to sell? If yes, please let me know. Thanks, Brian Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point work: 613-533-2228 R R 1 fax: 613-385-1948 Wolfe Island, Ontario home: 613-385-1947 K0H 2Y0 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Wed Jan 28 10:22:59 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 12:22:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 References: <1823407584.1969931233153667473.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <472E9940DF544D0085415A0F0539C02F@fred8kwiskhcfu> The only two people bidding at a auction are the eventual buyer and the "auctioneer", it is very hard to compete with a auctioneer for a fair outcome. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 9:41 AM Subject: Re: [TR] $45,000 TR4 > ----- McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote: >> the seller is going to need to find the same 2 guys who were bidding >> against >> each other at Barrett Jackson > > One of those 2 guys has his car now. He will have to find the other guy > and one more. Good luck with that. > > I'll take $40,000 for mine right now. Hell, for that, I will deliver it > anywhere in the USA in the Spring. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From L1J1S at aol.com Wed Jan 28 10:36:55 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 12:36:55 EST Subject: [TR] $45,000 TR4 Message-ID: i am sure there are a lot of stories now with a depress economy about owners taking huge hits on their cars and for that matter other things too. larry schwartz **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Jan 28 11:18:30 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 10:18:30 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr-4 transport Message-ID: <44387.10757.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> not to be a smart ass or anything but.................LA to vancouver? transport? my GAWD the best road in the world runs up the coast and what could be better than a sports car road trip? lol. just kidding gary n. From Loumetelko at aol.com Wed Jan 28 11:22:45 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 13:22:45 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 Transport Message-ID: Not cheap but the best of the best never are, try www.passport.fedex.com For an online quote all you will neeed is the starting and ending zip codes. I have used Passport and each time am impressed with the professionalism. I liked the idea that the car never leaves the enclosed trailer and the same driver that picks up at your door will also deliver at the other end. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** >From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 28 12:16:17 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 11:16:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > It is unfortunate, but ... > didn't some state bar old cars because of their emissons? Not that I have heard of. The topic has come up, maybe even a few bills introduced, but nothing substantial has passed. CA can't even pass a bill to make old cars subject to smog inspection (against standards they should reasonably be able to meet). > Obama isn't thinking about this, is he? Hard to say what he is thinking (there's a straight line for all you pundits out there); but again I've not heard any mention of it. What he is trying to do is both stiffen the fuel economy standards (aka greenhouse gas emissions) for new cars; and allow states like California to set their own standards. (Soapbox alert) Seems to me that they are going about it all wrong. What we ought to do is classify anything over 5 ft high as a "truck", and limit them to driving 55 in the right hand lane. Or better yet, take the European approach, and tax gasoline up to about $8/gallon. That would do WONDERS for our foreign oil consumption (which is what Obama is really trying to reduce). Might help the deficit, too. (Disclaimer: the above opinions void where not prohibited) Randall From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Jan 28 12:54:21 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 14:54:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] What type of cranshaft do I have? Message-ID: <7DA713482364482CAE59897D26097409@NewLaptop> Hi, Well, here I am off from work today due to the winter storm and decided what better thing to do but look for Triumph parts for my TR4A. I was looking on the British Frame and Engine site at their crankshaft damper kits and they have two different versions based on either a type 1 or type 2 crankshaft. I couldn't contact BF&E so I thought maybe someone on the list might point me in the right direction. Thanks, Dave Connitt .67 TR4A http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jan 28 13:18:46 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 13:18:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew> I am thinking that anyone who fears that our cars will be legislated out of existence is being overly paranoid. If there were no emissions standards in existence when the cars were built, the politicians cannot come up with new emissions standards for them. It is an example of an "ex post facto" law which in our country is illegal. However, if your car is new enough and there were emissions laws in existence when it was built, states can and might start applying those standards in existence at the time the car was sold. I am no lawyer but I certainly don't think that most of us have anything to worry about. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 12:16 PM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? > It is unfortunate, but ... > didn't some state bar old cars because of their emissons? Not that I have heard of. The topic has come up, maybe even a few bills introduced, but nothing substantial has passed. CA can't even pass a bill to make old cars subject to smog inspection (against standards they should reasonably be able to meet). > Obama isn't thinking about this, is he? Hard to say what he is thinking (there's a straight line for all you pundits out there); but again I've not heard any mention of it. What he is trying to do is both stiffen the fuel economy standards (aka greenhouse gas emissions) for new cars; and allow states like California to set their own standards. (Soapbox alert) Seems to me that they are going about it all wrong. What we ought to do is classify anything over 5 ft high as a "truck", and limit them to driving 55 in the right hand lane. Or better yet, take the European approach, and tax gasoline up to about $8/gallon. That would do WONDERS for our foreign oil consumption (which is what Obama is really trying to reduce). Might help the deficit, too. (Disclaimer: the above opinions void where not prohibited) Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Jan 28 13:23:23 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 15:23:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <4980786B.31660.D8E5F0@localhost> On 28 Jan 2009 at 11:16, Randall wrote: > (Soapbox alert) ...Or better yet, take the European approach, > and tax gasoline up to about $8/gallon. This is something I've argued for a long time. It would differ only by the amount, since the amount varies as the scale of finances varies from epoch to epoch. However they never ask me. Nor do they pay attention when I speak without being asked. The political problem, of course, is that when it comes to raising the price of anything, no matter how you do it and via taxes or via any other way, it must always hit some people harder than it hits others. Anyone in the hardest-hit demographic has a legitimate gripe, regardless of how it improves the common good. It ain't an easy problem. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ABosonetto at aol.com Wed Jan 28 13:32:37 2009 From: ABosonetto at aol.com (ABosonetto at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 15:32:37 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 47 Message-ID: Will a stag BW/35automatic transmission fit a TR4 Al **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Jan 28 14:14:13 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 14:14:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] 2000 Moss Catalog In-Reply-To: <801B5E22C4D949748CC0D8991495C371@Bevan> References: <380-22009122705834875@earthlink.net> <801B5E22C4D949748CC0D8991495C371@Bevan> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901281314r6626bf97n6491d0aac9493f20@mail.gmail.com> A corn flake shaped like the state of Illinois sold on eBay for $1350, so anything is possible. But I wouldn't think a 2000 Moss catalog is old enough to generate a lot of nostalgia. A Weetabix shaped like a TR3 would be pretty nice though. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Jan 28 14:31:53 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 14:31:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901281331j694ee091r9dd387fc0c7a01cf@mail.gmail.com> On 1/28/09, Randall wrote: > > (Soapbox alert) Seems to me that they are going about it all wrong. What we > ought to do is classify anything over 5 ft high as a "truck", and limit them > to driving 55 in the right hand lane. Yikes, that would include my VW camper. Oh wait. 55 mph? Righthand lane? That sounds about right. Never mind. Geo From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 28 14:49:17 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:49:17 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 47 References: Message-ID: <80328D28A72E42BBA5BABA7FF36B9E3C@Bevan> ABosonetto wrote: > Will a stag BW/35automatic transmission fit a TR4 If you throw enough money at the problem, a way could be found. However, I'm 95% certain that Standard-Triumph never offered an auto-trans option for the Standard Vanguard and Ensign which used the same basic engine up to 1962/3ish. Of course, the wet liner four pot was used by other specialist manufacturers but I don't think they offered auto either. So the quick answer is NO, the considered answer, why not? Jonmac From ZoboHerald at aol.com Wed Jan 28 14:51:53 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 16:51:53 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 47 Message-ID: In a message dated 1/28/2009 3:50:50 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ABosonetto at aol.com writes: Will a stag BW/35automatic transmission fit a TR4 ==AM== Short answer is YES. It's not exactly simple, but it has been done. (Triumph tried it themselves in the late 1950s with a TR3, and at least one TR6 was converted years ago. I can put you in touch with the person who did it.) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 28 15:15:09 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 14:15:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I am thinking that anyone who fears that our cars will be legislated out > of existence is being overly paranoid. If there were no emissions > standards in existence when the cars were built, the politicians cannot > come up with new emissions standards for them. I'll disagree with that, Joe. When I bought my 59 TR3A here in California, the law at that time required that it pass smog inspection before it could be registered (even though CA had no smog standards in 59). The law has since changed, but AFAIK it was never found to be illegal or improper, only ineffective. Oddly enough, my TR3A failed the first time, literally because the exhaust was too clean! Being somewhat paranoid about the test, I had tuned it as clean as I knew how; which the automated test station interpreted as a leak in the exhaust. Afterwards, I reset it "by the book" and it passed with flying colors. Obviously, the standards that were applied were many times higher than new cars were expected to meet, even then (1984). > It is an example of an "ex > post facto" law which in our country is illegal. I'm no lawyer, but I believe "ex post facto" refers to punishing someone for doing something that was not illegal at the time they did it. There is no legal principle that says they cannot pass a new law, making a future action (eg operating a polluting car) illegal that was not illegal before. That is particularly clear here in CA, where they are in the middle of requiring that heavy trucks and ships be retrofitted with emissions equipment (much like they did cars back in the 60s). http://tinyurl.com/bhp9t9 > I am no lawyer but I certainly don't think that most of us have anything > to worry about. I wish I could agree Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jan 28 15:24:49 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 17:24:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] 2000 Moss Catalog In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901281314r6626bf97n6491d0aac9493f20@mail.gmail.com> References: <380-22009122705834875@earthlink.net> <801B5E22C4D949748CC0D8991495C371@Bevan> <7bb181af0901281314r6626bf97n6491d0aac9493f20@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <200901281724.49523.yellowtr@adelphia.net> For some unknown reason, I have just about every catalog, sale catalog etc. that TRF has ever mailed. One is a original from when TRF was just getting off the ground. I also have about 10 or more years of Moss catalogs and a few VB. Some are used in various places for reference when I find it easier than the workshop manual. Sort of matches my ever growing collection of TR used parts. One of these days, when my restoration days are over, I will have to see what I can throw away and what I can sell. Until then, the pile just keeps growing! I think the wife thinks this is more of an obsession than a hobby! Bob From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Jan 28 15:38:18 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 15:38:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] What type of cranshaft do I have? In-Reply-To: <7DA713482364482CAE59897D26097409@NewLaptop> References: <7DA713482364482CAE59897D26097409@NewLaptop> Message-ID: I, for one, can't find any difference in the parts books. Part number 301815 runs right through the 4's and 4A's.... Racers might have a better idea. Bill On Jan 28, 2009, at 12:54 PM, Dave Connitt wrote: > Hi, > Well, here I am off from work today due to the winter storm and > decided what > better thing to do but look for Triumph parts for my TR4A. I was > looking on > the British Frame and Engine site at their crankshaft damper kits > and they > have two different versions based on either a type 1 or type 2 > crankshaft. I > couldn't contact BF&E so I thought maybe someone on the list might > point me in > the right direction. > Thanks, > Dave Connitt > .67 TR4A > http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 28 15:41:25 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 14:41:25 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 47 In-Reply-To: <80328D28A72E42BBA5BABA7FF36B9E3C@Bevan> References: <80328D28A72E42BBA5BABA7FF36B9E3C@Bevan> Message-ID: <0d6b01c98199$8d99b510$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > So the quick answer is NO, the > considered answer, why not? One answer, I think, would be that the engines that took the BW35 originally all had interchangeable rear plates that could be made to match the BW35. The TRactor motor does not. But of course, as noted, anything is possible with enough money. Suitable adapters could be made. If one were going to do that, though, I think it would make more sense to start with something a little more advanced than the venerable BW35. Something with OD & a lockup torque converter, at least. A TR motor isn't really happy without an OD anyway, and another 3-500 rpm for converter slip isn't going to help. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 28 15:43:36 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 14:43:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <4980786B.31660.D8E5F0@localhost> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <4980786B.31660.D8E5F0@localhost> Message-ID: <0d6c01c98199$dbae6a70$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > It ain't an easy problem. Amen! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 28 16:05:30 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 15:05:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] What type of cranshaft do I have? In-Reply-To: <7DA713482364482CAE59897D26097409@NewLaptop> References: <7DA713482364482CAE59897D26097409@NewLaptop> Message-ID: <0d6d01c9819c$eac74920$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I was looking on > the British Frame and Engine site at their crankshaft damper kits and they > have two different versions based on either a type 1 or type 2 crankshaft. Not certain, but I believe the listing is for two different types of kits that fit the same crankshaft; rather than kits for two different crankshafts. I think one of the kits is a custom-made damper, while the less expensive kit uses a damper from another engine with adapters for the TR motor. But in any case you cannot order until you talk to Ken, so ask him. The list on the website is only a guideline anyway; he may or may not have the listed parts at the listed price. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jan 28 16:35:34 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 16:35:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew> <0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew> Of Course, You are talking about California where nothing is to be unexpected. The literal Latin translation of ex post facto is "After the Fact", which means in legal terms that no laws can be written to make something illegal after the fact. It is mostly applied to personal crimes but I would be willing to bet that a good lawyer can put up a good argument that it also applies to automobiles. That said, politicians like to hear themselves talk and often select older cars as a good way to cut down on pollution. Their main points are very hollow when you get down to brass tacks because most of the older cars fall into two categories, Junkers and collectors. The junkers are the ones emitting a lot of pollution but will ultimately obsolete themselves by completely falling apart. The collectors will be properly maintained (for the most part) and not be a significant contributor to pollution even though they may not meet modern pollution standards because they are not driven all that much. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, January 28, 2009 3:15 PM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? > I am thinking that anyone who fears that our cars will be legislated out > of existence is being overly paranoid. If there were no emissions > standards in existence when the cars were built, the politicians cannot > come up with new emissions standards for them. I'll disagree with that, Joe. When I bought my 59 TR3A here in California, the law at that time required that it pass smog inspection before it could be registered (even though CA had no smog standards in 59). The law has since changed, but AFAIK it was never found to be illegal or improper, only ineffective. Oddly enough, my TR3A failed the first time, literally because the exhaust was too clean! Being somewhat paranoid about the test, I had tuned it as clean as I knew how; which the automated test station interpreted as a leak in the exhaust. Afterwards, I reset it "by the book" and it passed with flying colors. Obviously, the standards that were applied were many times higher than new cars were expected to meet, even then (1984). > It is an example of an "ex > post facto" law which in our country is illegal. I'm no lawyer, but I believe "ex post facto" refers to punishing someone for doing something that was not illegal at the time they did it. There is no legal principle that says they cannot pass a new law, making a future action (eg operating a polluting car) illegal that was not illegal before. That is particularly clear here in CA, where they are in the middle of requiring that heavy trucks and ships be retrofitted with emissions equipment (much like they did cars back in the 60s). http://tinyurl.com/bhp9t9 > I am no lawyer but I certainly don't think that most of us have anything > to worry about. I wish I could agree Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 28 17:09:45 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 00:09:45 -0000 Subject: [TR] Standard Triumph on YouTube Message-ID: <4903C5B386294990B80A9CBD52EE6E66@Bevan> Maybe this has already been covered in earlier posts to the lists and I missed them over the years I've been subscribing. But following a casual wander around YouTube, I've found some archive footage of the factory in Coventry if anyone's interested? The first film at www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN4qwW5ceGU shows the assembly line at Canley when the Standard 8 saloon (aka Triumph 10) was being made. This was made a good five years before the new Assembly Hall was commissioned in 1959 to build the Herald as its first customer. Although the film doesn't show it, the sidescreen TR assembly line was opposite the one for the 8. Sorry, TR owners but you won't see any as this is obviously a PR production for the 8. However you will see someone that many knew in recent years as a Triumph World columnist and that's Robin Penrice. Robin is the younger of the two boys in school uniform with his brother Peter and their Mum, Gwen Penrice. Robin's Dad, Ivor Penrice was Publicity Manager at Standard and this is obviously why his house and family took part. Low budget, see? The shoot was outside their home near Coventry, as are the shots of the car being driven along a very well-known road between Coventry and Kenilworth. I can't currently identify the driver, though his face is familiar. While I doubt anyone on these lists will have any interest in Ferguson tractors (I wish I still had mine to play with) the next film at www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCEgSB8qjRs&NR=1 shows Standard-Triumphs other Coventry factory at Banner Lane on the western outskirts of the city. Built in two years just before WW2 to make aircraft engines this later became Massey Ferguson's European tractor plant. It has entirely vanished and is now a housing estate! Enjoy! Jonmac From spitlist at cox.net Wed Jan 28 17:46:14 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 17:46:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 Rear end. Message-ID: <358F1B464AAF4B0A9B9127DBE724E964@joepentiumnew> I was recently contacted by the owner of a GT6 who says that his rear end recently went out. Rather than pay the big bucks to have it rebuilt, he is wondering if anyone has a 3.27:1 diff assembly (GT6+) in good condition that they need to part with at a reasonable price. Anyone who has one, please send your contact information to me and I will forward it to the buyer. No financial interest on my part, just trying to help out a Triumph guy! Thanks, Joe From mrv8q at aim.com Wed Jan 28 18:56:55 2009 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 20:56:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Moss Motors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB4FCBFF04DB49-1458-1248@webmail-me12.sysops.aol.com> Peter Arakelian :B arakelianp at mossmotors.com Best, Kevin Browne Would someone remind me of the name / contact point for our guru at Moss Motors? I have a friend who would like to contact him about selling things to Moss. Thanks, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 28 19:13:47 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 18:13:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew> <0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The literal Latin translation of ex post facto is "After the Fact", which > means in legal terms that no laws can be written to make something illegal > after the fact. Right. The fact in this case being driving the car. However they can certainly make driving it illegal before you drive it; without violating the ban on ex post facto laws. (Article I Section 9 of the US Constitution) > Their main points are very > hollow when you get down to brass tacks because most of the older cars > fall into two categories, Junkers and collectors. My point was simply that if we don't pay attention, and squawk loudly when necessary, we will be easy targets for any politician trying to score brownie points with the "green" crowd. Or as someone once said, the price of freedom is constant vigilance. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 28 20:20:27 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 22:20:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? Message-ID: <001d01c981c0$88f807b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I have decided to attempt a crude redesign after ruining one or two control head trifficators. Has anyone had success with a similar attempt? Both of two previous trifficators broke at the same point and it is where the electrical contact is made between the light green wire's contact with the left or right turn signal contact. The moveable bakelite trifficator, at this narrow point, holds both 'the screw holding the finger switch' on one side of the small bakelite piece, and a 'small spring pushing the little brass 'shield' on the other side of the bakelite piece. This 'shield' is moved left or right to establish contact. Also, regarding my pawl inquiry: I am just going to assume that gravity operates them and pulls the pawl letting it slide down enough for their angular bottom 'hits' the steering-wheel-casting in order to properly cancel the turn signal after the steering wheel is turned. Let me know if you know that these greased pawls work differently than by mere gravity (as I assume they do). Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.9 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 951 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Jan 28 20:35:10 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:35:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] GT6 Rear end. References: <358F1B464AAF4B0A9B9127DBE724E964@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <31FE5623CDE845C09CE1FAF91754153D@mikeslaptop> >I was recently contacted by the owner of a GT6 who says that his rear end > recently went out. Rather than pay the big bucks to have it rebuilt, he > is > wondering if anyone has a 3.27:1 diff assembly (GT6+) in good condition > that > they need to part with at a reasonable price. Proctologists can do amazing things, but I fail to see how a 3.27:1 diff is going to fix his problem... Mike (sorry) From FGFO1 at aol.com Wed Jan 28 21:03:43 2009 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 23:03:43 EST Subject: [TR] Is a cylinder head rebuild a DIY job? Message-ID: Sujit I just finished lapping my own valves on my TR3. new valves old head. used my 30 year old lapping tool. always worked well before. did not let me down this time. after lapping I filled the ports full of gas. no leaks from the valves. takes about 5 min's per valve from new. still making the tool. check out page 26 in this catalogue _http://www.gunson.co.uk/(S(ri12l545xlw5pmajeyyrf3jy))/news/pdf/Gunson_06_Cata logue.pdf_ (http://www.gunson.co.uk/(S(ri12l545xlw5pmajeyyrf3jy))/news/pdf/Gunson_06_Catalogue.pdf) Frank Fisher 58 TR3 **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jan 28 22:18:08 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 21:18:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? In-Reply-To: <001d01c981c0$88f807b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20090129051807.YLNJ6485.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > I have decided to attempt a crude redesign after ruining one > or two control head trifficators. Has anyone had success > with a similar attempt? Not me. In fact I started taking photos with an eye towards writing a tech article; as I disassembled my original control head for the Nth time. (When your car stays outdoors as much as mine does, the workings get dirty and have to be cleaned occasionally for continued operation.) However I got interrupted and haven't gone back to it yet. Decided the original harness was too far gone to repair one more time, so I ordered a new one from TRF. With any luck, it should be here by next week and I'll resume documenting the assembly process. > Let me know if > you know that these greased pawls work differently than by > mere gravity (as I assume they do). Nope, don't rely on gravity. Gravity isn't as reliable as you'd think, in a car that gets driven hard. It's the spring-loaded roller that pushes either one of the pawls down, when it's in the turn position. The same channel that the pawl runs in forms a detent to hold the roller in the turn position. Then when the pawl is pushed back up by the canceling ring, it lifts the roller out of the end of the channel, and in turn the roller moves under the influence of the long spring on the curved rod, back to center. It would still work if the head were installed upside down. Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jan 28 22:40:53 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 00:40:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench In-Reply-To: <8B795A563EEF4089B958A1F2DF4902A2@Scott> References: <7F849081B3004363AF52D0F65EA893BE@Scott> <112080A2C1EB4C549A33374B1AB651F7@CarlPC> <8B795A563EEF4089B958A1F2DF4902A2@Scott> Message-ID: <862CA53B9D924A54A37766F69D47076B@CarlPC> there are several of the dash tools on ebay starting today. Seems to be priced a bit more than I paid way back when, but... Auction # 140297854091 etc Scott - I never did find the paperwork. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Suhring" To: "'Carl TR'" Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 9:59 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench > Thanks Carl. > > Scott > > -----Original Message----- > From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] > Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 10:45 AM > To: Scott Suhring; Triumph Mail List > Subject: Re: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench > > I bought mine on eBay... > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Scott Suhring" > To: "Triumph Mail List" > Sent: Friday, January 23, 2009 10:44 PM > Subject: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench > > >> Does anyone know who was manufacturing the bezel wrench that has the two >> sizes (for large and small bezels), one at each end of the pipe? A friend >> wants to get one and I can't recall if I bought it on eBay or from the >> list. >> >> Scott Suhring >> Mechanicsburg, PA >> '70 TR6 >> '59 TR3 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Jan 29 02:14:48 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:14:48 -0000 Subject: [TR] emission standards? References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew> <0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> Randall wrote: > My point was simply that if we don't pay attention, and squawk loudly when > necessary, we will be easy targets for any politician trying to score > brownie points with the "green" crowd. I find it worrying that in a country with such a strong historic vehicle interest base, there isn't some form of central 'power base' - or is there one I've not heard of? In the UK, we have The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs to which the vast majority of clubs representing the many different makes and models all belong. Collectively, the FBHVC represents some thirty thousand old car enthusiasts in the UK and it's also an integral part of a similar and much larger European organisation that brings together similar FBHVC functions in all the other countries.. This enables the various organisations throughout the EU (European Union) to be vigilant about pending legislation in our own backyards, while at the same time, making a very powerful lobby to campaign against the 'green' ideas that come out of the European Parliament. The bottom line is that it's a very powerful voice that national governments and the controlling Parliament listens to and usually accommodates when new legislation is in the review process. Surely something of that sort exists in the US? Jonmac From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Thu Jan 29 04:50:27 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 06:50:27 EST Subject: [TR] GT6 Wheels Message-ID: All, Many thanks for all of the responses I received about my query about wheel/tire size for our '72 GT6. It looks like we will be going with the Panasport 5.5 (purchased yesterday from TRF @ 25% off sale) and some sort of 175/70R13 tire. Again, thanks for all of the advice. Sam and Carol Clark **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jan 29 05:11:06 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 07:11:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 Rear end. In-Reply-To: <31FE5623CDE845C09CE1FAF91754153D@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <4981568A.19164.43C8D05@localhost> On 28 Jan 2009 at 21:35, Michael Marr wrote: > > I was recently contacted by the owner of a GT6 who says that > > his rear end recently went out. > Proctologists can do amazing things, but I fail to see how a > 3.27:1 diff is going to fix his problem... Indeed. Perhaps he should just wait for it to return. Did it say where it was going or how long it might be? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jan 29 05:16:16 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 07:16:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? In-Reply-To: <20090129051807.YLNJ6485.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <001d01c981c0$88f807b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <498157C0.17107.441471A@localhost> On 28 Jan 2009 at 21:18, Randall wrote: > It's the spring-loaded roller that pushes either one of the pawls > down, when it's in the turn position... > > It would still work if the head were installed upside down. I don't have access to a TR3, but whenever I see one of these posts I have no idea what it is about. Something electrical? Something relying on gravity in the steering? Spring rollers? Ah, for cooking maybe? And so needy. All that fiddling and fidgeting. What could it mean, Holmes? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jan 29 05:21:05 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 07:21:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> Message-ID: <498158E1.11053.445B031@localhost> On 29 Jan 2009 at 9:14, John Macartney wrote: > In the UK, we have The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs That would be about 63% of the driving public, wouldn't it? A nice power base to have when it comes to politics. Strange though, on The Rockford Files they had no shortage of muscle cars, nor parking place either. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jan 29 06:02:37 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 08:02:37 EST Subject: [TR] GT6 Rear end. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/28/2009 7:29:56 PM Central Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > I was recently contacted by the owner of a GT6 who says that his rear end > recently went out. Last time my rear end went out I was threatened with an indecent exposure suit. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 29 07:02:17 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:02:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew><0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> Message-ID: John, As we looked at areas to retire to (think warmer climate) I also checked the various state's DMV rules with regard to registering classic cars. My car came with emissions equipment which is now long gone but the irony is that my car runs cleaner with TBI then it ever did with the stock emissions stuff.....I actually had it tested last year. What I found is that the half dozen southeastern states that I looked at are all over the place on registering classic cars and emissions. One state even varied by county. Some states require no testing for cars over "X" years of age, with "X" being a variable based on state. Some states required that the original emissions stuff be on the car even though they don't test emissions on old cars. So not only don't we have a Historic Vehicle Club to lobby for us but we don't even have consistent standards across the states. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 4:15 AM To: Randall; 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? Randall wrote: > My point was simply that if we don't pay attention, and squawk loudly > when necessary, we will be easy targets for any politician trying to > score brownie points with the "green" crowd. I find it worrying that in a country with such a strong historic vehicle interest base, there isn't some form of central 'power base' - or is there one I've not heard of? In the UK, we have The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs to which the vast majority of clubs representing the many different makes and models all belong. Collectively, the FBHVC represents some thirty thousand old car enthusiasts in the UK and it's also an integral part of a similar and much larger European organisation that brings together similar FBHVC functions in all the other countries.. This enables the various organisations throughout the EU (European Union) to be vigilant about pending legislation in our own backyards, while at the same time, making a very powerful lobby to campaign against the 'green' ideas that come out of the European Parliament. The bottom line is that it's a very powerful voice that national governments and the controlling Parliament listens to and usually accommodates when new legislation is in the review process. Surely something of that sort exists in the US? Jonmac This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 29 07:55:45 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 06:55:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? In-Reply-To: <498157C0.17107.441471A@localhost> Message-ID: <20090129145544.ZBZZ22988.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I don't have access to a TR3, but whenever I see one of these > posts I have no idea what it is about. Something electrical? Jim, I never know whether to take you seriously or not. But yes, the "control head" on a TR2-3 is something electrical. It's the combination turn signal and horn switch that fits in the center of the steering wheel. An unusual design, in that the head does not turn with the wheel. Also quite complicated compared to later designs, which I attribute mostly to the lack of injection molded springs that were an essential feature of the later designs. Not sure how far the history of the TR2-3 unit goes back, but I think it was on the Mayflower as well. It's made only of Bakelite, brass and steel (with a chromed trim strip). Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Jan 29 08:14:23 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 15:14:23 -0000 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? References: <20090129145544.ZBZZ22988.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Randall wrote: > Not sure how far the history of the TR2-3 unit goes > back, but I think it was on the Mayflower as well. It's made only of > Bakelite, brass and steel (with a chromed trim strip). It goes back further than that, Randall. With absolute certainty to at least 1935. ISTR that in itself was a carryover from the even earlier days of throttle and ignition levers being in the centre of the steering wheel. All Standard cars were fitted with that type of control head with the added luxury of a telescopic steering column on the more expensive models. Fair to say they perhaps "never got it exactly right" so decided to persevere for another twenty odd years plus, with the general public being the test facility - until they finally gave up and tried another method :) Jonmac From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Jan 29 08:26:04 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 15:26:04 -0000 Subject: [TR] emission standards? References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew><0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> Message-ID: Bob Danielson wrote: > As we looked at areas to retire to (think warmer climate) I also checked the > various state's DMV rules with regard to registering classic cars. My car > came with emissions equipment which is now long gone but the irony is that > my car runs cleaner with TBI then it ever did with the stock emissions > stuff.....I actually had it tested last year. What I found is that the half > dozen southeastern states that I looked at are all over the place on > registering classic cars and emissions. One state even varied by county. > Some states require no testing for cars over "X" years of age, with "X" > being a variable based on state. Some states required that the original > emissions stuff be on the car even though they don't test emissions on old > cars. So not only don't we have a Historic Vehicle Club to lobby for us but > we don't even have consistent standards across the states. Hmm, brings a new dimension to the old saying of "things are often not what they seem." I tell you what, I always think that when you've got a problem, it's best to *go to the top.* Politics entirely to one side, do you think it would be a good idea for me to drop a friendly note to Mr. Obama? Perhaps with my Standard-Triumph background and knowledge of how we deal with things this side o't pond, I could give him a few things to think about and to clarify likely problems and possible dissenters? He seems, by all accounts, to be an approachable sort of fellow and as he's already outlined a fairly comprehensive list of *things to do* perhaps a Federal harmonisation of emission standards for all old British cars would be a good idea? Once I've done a quick tour of the Estate tonight, ensured the Grooms have dealt with the horses and dismissed my Butler for the evening, I'll give it some thought...... J From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jan 29 08:31:50 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 15:31:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] tr-4 transport In-Reply-To: <44387.10757.qm@web59411.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <608065203.58811233243110831.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Gary Nafziger" wrote: > the best road in the world runs up the coast and > what > could be better than a sports car road trip? lol. We'll be running it the other direction with our TR4 on the way to the SLO for the VTR (do I use too many TLAs?). Unfortunately, the TR4 will be in the trailer. Maybe we can park the mothership in Olympia and drive around the Olympic Peninsula in the TR4. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From eoot at citlink.net Thu Jan 29 08:38:15 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 10:38:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... Message-ID: <006b01c98227$9a7082d0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> After researching all the advice on removal of the TR3 steering box without removing the apron, I gave it a shot. After 10 hours of frustration in the attempt, I finally gave up and in 40 minutes had the apron off and the box sitting on the bench. I know many have been successful in removal without taking the apron off, and I applaud your patience, but for me it just wasn't worth it. In fact, I'm amazed that it is for anyone. I kept thinking,,,if it's this hard to get out, can it be any easier going back in? Anyway, I'm at the point I can now proceed. From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 29 09:36:16 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 11:36:16 EST Subject: [TR] control head redesign? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/29/2009 9:56:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Not sure how far the history of the TR2-3 unit goes back, but I think it was on the Mayflower as well. Randall, I would prepare myself for a bunch of pilgrim jokes. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From spitlist at cox.net Thu Jan 29 09:40:46 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:40:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew><0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> Message-ID: Hey Bob, Arizona still has areas where no emissions testing is in effect. Only in the major metropolitan areas are they testing emissions. I live 15 miles south of Tucson and none of my cars have to undergo such testing. That's not to say that things will change in the future, though. But if you are looking for somewhere to retire it is worth considering. There are lots of homes on the market these days ! :-) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 7:02 AM To: 'John Macartney'; 'listTriumph' Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? John, As we looked at areas to retire to (think warmer climate) I also checked the various state's DMV rules with regard to registering classic cars. My car came with emissions equipment which is now long gone but the irony is that my car runs cleaner with TBI then it ever did with the stock emissions stuff.....I actually had it tested last year. What I found is that the half dozen southeastern states that I looked at are all over the place on registering classic cars and emissions. One state even varied by county. Some states require no testing for cars over "X" years of age, with "X" being a variable based on state. Some states required that the original emissions stuff be on the car even though they don't test emissions on old cars. So not only don't we have a Historic Vehicle Club to lobby for us but we don't even have consistent standards across the states. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 29 10:01:40 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:01:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew><0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> Message-ID: <0e5f01c98233$41f52e60$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My car > came with emissions equipment which is now long gone Which of course means that you are violating Federal law. Most of the area distinctions you outline are merely whether the states choose to enforce the Federal law or not, and in what fashion they do so. And IMO there is some sense to that. Los Angeles, for example, has a huge smog problem, caused in large part by our geography. We effectively live in a 3-sided fish bowl, with the prevailing winds coming from the 4th side and trapping both the natural hydrocarbons that rise from the ground around here plus the effluent of some 13 million people and their cars. It seems reasonable to me that we spend rather more money and time trying to limit emissions than people living in, say, Adams county ND (population under 3000, located on a windswept plain, no oil deposits at all). (Not that there is anything wrong with that.) > So not only don't we have a Historic Vehicle Club to lobby for us Actually, there are several organizations that do lobby for us. The AACA for example, SEMA for another. > but we don't even have consistent standards across the states. Which is something of a holdover from the United States originally being organized as a rather loose federation of semi-autonomous states. Rather more comparable to the EU today, than the UK, IMO. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 29 10:03:41 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:03:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0e6001c98233$8a2a22d0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > In a message dated 1/29/2009 9:56:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > > Not sure how far the history of the TR2-3 unit goes > back, but I think it was on the Mayflower as well. > > Randall, > I would prepare myself for a bunch of pilgrim jokes. Well, at least someone noticed the double entendre Randall From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Jan 29 10:09:27 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 12:09:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew> <0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> Message-ID: <7EE34DE116AC4DE19E773E181A6ECC1A@fred8kwiskhcfu> JonMac, we have the "Antique Automobile Club of America", biggest problem is we have 50 states all with varying Antique Laws and then we have the big boys to contend with "The Federal Govt/Congress", I live in Virginia with some very tough inspections laws on autos, some years back (15) a collector organized many small clubs into signing a petition to our state legislators that our old cars are used very little and then mostly in civic community shows and parades and wanted anything over 25 years old to be exempt from taxazation and inspection, this petition was then sent to a state legislator whom just happened to be a collector also, the only bill ever to be approved in state history 99 to 0, so "YES" we have organizations and clubs that try to keep up with any legislature in any state that may effect our hobby. "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Randall" ; "'list Triumph'" Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 4:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? > Randall wrote: >> My point was simply that if we don't pay attention, and squawk loudly >> when >> necessary, we will be easy targets for any politician trying to score >> brownie points with the "green" crowd. > > I find it worrying that in a country with such a strong historic vehicle > interest base, there isn't some form of central 'power base' - or is there > one I've not heard of? > In the UK, we have The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs to > which the vast majority of clubs representing the many different makes and > models all belong. Collectively, the FBHVC represents some thirty thousand > old car enthusiasts in the UK and it's also an integral part of a similar > and much larger European organisation that brings together similar FBHVC > functions in all the other countries.. This enables the various > organisations throughout the EU (European Union) to be vigilant about > pending legislation in our own backyards, while at the same time, making a > very powerful lobby to campaign against the 'green' ideas that come out of > the European Parliament. > The bottom line is that it's a very powerful voice that national > governments and the controlling Parliament listens to and usually > accommodates when new legislation is in the review process. > Surely something of that sort exists in the US? > > Jonmac _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Jan 29 10:26:54 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 12:26:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? References: <0e6001c98233$8a2a22d0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Ford had the horn, low beam, hi-beam on one rod mounted in the steering column from 1900 to 1941 (?) "FT" ==================================================================================================== From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 29 10:39:45 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:39:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench In-Reply-To: <862CA53B9D924A54A37766F69D47076B@CarlPC> References: <7F849081B3004363AF52D0F65EA893BE@Scott><112080A2C1EB4C549A33374B1AB651F7@CarlPC><8B795A563EEF4089B958A1F2DF4902A2@Scott> <862CA53B9D924A54A37766F69D47076B@CarlPC> Message-ID: <0e6e01c98238$93ebe6a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > there are several of the dash tools on ebay starting today. Strange how that works, isn't it. Almost as if someone is listening ... Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 29 10:50:03 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 09:50:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? In-Reply-To: <001d01c981c0$88f807b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001d01c981c0$88f807b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <0e8101c9823a$043fbd90$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Both of two previous trifficators broke at the same point I'm curious, Paul, what were you doing when the pieces broke? Normally, there is only very limited force applied to that piece, as the travel of the lever is limited by the outer housing; and within the limits of travel it only has to move the spring-loaded roller, turn the pivot, and compress one of the long springs. I've never seen one break like that. If it's an original head that you are working on, I could probably even supply the piece from one of my broken heads. But it sounds like it would be best if you ship me your head and harness and I assemble it for you. If that sounds interesting, please write me off-list. Randall From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Thu Jan 29 10:57:07 2009 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 12:57:07 EST Subject: [TR] Mayflower Reminder Message-ID: Someone mentioned Mayflower and I can't resist: My Father in Law once owned a Model A Ford which he called the Mayflower because..... ready for this... So many girls came across in it! Sorry! George ************** Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 29 11:00:40 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 13:00:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <0e5f01c98233$41f52e60$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew><0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> <0e5f01c98233$41f52e60$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <2F528B5F1A744281A20CDACBE3218324@BOBSNEWPC> Randall.... Right you are on violating Federal law but the practicality of it is that many of the emissions control parts for our cars are no longer available. Or if a rebuilt part is available, like an air pump, does it meet stock standards? If I make up my own diverter valve or injector tube have I now "messed" with the system and violated some other law? I think the reality is that no one (the Feds) probably ever thought that this many 30+ year old cars built by a company long out of business would still be around and in as good condition as many of them are. Part availability is better now then when they were new but there are parts no longer available. I guess I'll have to confine my retirement state looking to those with friendly classic car requirements. Though the Federal prison here in CT is supposed to be quite comfy ;-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 12:02 PM To: 'listTriumph' Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? > My car > came with emissions equipment which is now long gone Which of course means that you are violating Federal law. Most of the area distinctions you outline are merely whether the states choose to enforce the Federal law or not, and in what fashion they do so. And IMO there is some sense to that. Los Angeles, for example, has a huge smog problem, caused in large part by our geography. We effectively live in a 3-sided fish bowl, with the prevailing winds coming from the 4th side and trapping both the natural hydrocarbons that rise from the ground around here plus the effluent of some 13 million people and their cars. It seems reasonable to me that we spend rather more money and time trying to limit emissions than people living in, say, Adams county ND (population under 3000, located on a windswept plain, no oil deposits at all). (Not that there is anything wrong with that.) > So not only don't we have a Historic Vehicle Club to lobby for us Actually, there are several organizations that do lobby for us. The AACA for example, SEMA for another. > but we don't even have consistent standards across the states. Which is something of a holdover from the United States originally being organized as a rather loose federation of semi-autonomous states. Rather more comparable to the EU today, than the UK, IMO. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 29 11:06:47 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 13:06:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That reminds me of a conversation I had a few years back with a golf course owner who was trying to add nine more holes to his course using property that wound around a river. The river was inhabited by the goolge-eyed-gilly-whomper albino newt......... so the environmentalist, DEP etc were up in arms over the chemicals that would get dumped in the river and kill the little critters. The course owner's comment was..."I have to account for every single ounce of product I put down on the course yet I could sell this land off to a developer who would built a 100 homes and they can dump as much product on their yards as they want with no accountability." Go figure. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _____ From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 11:49 AM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? Bob, I have enjoyed Florida with two British cars for a number of years now as Florida does not inspect ANY car for emissions. With a recent change in career direction (not selected by me) and a possible relocation, the thought has crossed my mind that emissions may become an issue. The thing that causes me to scratch my head is the army of 25 - 35 HP "lawn machines" that show up in my neighborhood for each home belching and spewing, with weed whackers and indiscriminate and uncontrolled spraying of weed killer. This has to happen literally hundreds of thousands of times each week (maybe more), in FL. I should be concerned about burning a couple of hundred gallons of gas a year in a classic car? Sincere apologies to the lawn maintenance guys on the list David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO _____ Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. From tr3a at comcast.net Thu Jan 29 11:11:14 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 13:11:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <2F528B5F1A744281A20CDACBE3218324@BOBSNEWPC> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew><0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> <0e5f01c98233$41f52e60$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <2F528B5F1A744281A20CDACBE3218324@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <4981F142.6080504@comcast.net> Bob, perhaps you could ask for the Rowland Suite. Unless Perez beats you to it. Bob Danielson wrote: Though the Federal prison here in CT is supposed to be quite comfy ;-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Jan 29 11:45:19 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 12:45:19 -0600 Subject: [TR] GT6 Rear end. References: Message-ID: <2D37AA5C271B412FA59DB0D64659A697@mikeslaptop> >> I was recently contacted by the owner of a GT6 who says that his rear end >> recently went out. > > Last time my rear end went out I was threatened with an indecent exposure > suit. And that would be a suit with extra zippers, I take it? Tailors can do amazing things too, apparently. Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 29 12:07:33 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 11:07:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <2F528B5F1A744281A20CDACBE3218324@BOBSNEWPC> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew><0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> <0e5f01c98233$41f52e60$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <2F528B5F1A744281A20CDACBE3218324@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <0ea301c98244$d7db24a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > If I make up my own diverter valve or injector tube have > I now "messed" with the system and violated some other law? The law does allow for replacement parts that are "the same in design and function". That presumably includes one-off parts, and/or parts adapted from other cars, as long as they do the same thing in the same way as the original parts. And while I don't mean to sound critical (I am guilty myself), arguing that it's OK to remove smog equipment because you can't find replacements is a lot like a thief arguing that it's OK to steal because he doesn't have enough money. > I think the reality is that no one (the Feds) probably ever thought that > this many 30+ year old cars built by a company long out of business would > still be around and in as good condition as many of them are. Well, I think the reality is that they would prefer that such cars be forced off the road, regardless of condition. It has only been through fairly continuous efforts by old car nuts of all stripes that we don't have laws like they do in Japan, where perfectly good late model cars are scrapped because it's less painful than jumping through the hoops to keep them on the road. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 29 13:52:01 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 15:52:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <4981F142.6080504@comcast.net> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew><0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew><0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> <0e5f01c98233$41f52e60$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <2F528B5F1A744281A20CDACBE3218324@BOBSNEWPC> <4981F142.6080504@comcast.net> Message-ID: Michael....... tsk tsk..... slandering our imprisoned former corrupt governor. And then you toss in the current mayor of Hartford.....who has proclaimed his innocence. Chicago's got nothing on CT for corrupt public officials! :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _____ From: Michael [mailto:tr3a at comcast.net] Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 1:11 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? Bob, perhaps you could ask for the Rowland Suite. Unless Perez beats you to it. Bob Danielson wrote: Though the Federal prison here in CT is supposed to be quite comfy ;-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From FGFO1 at aol.com Thu Jan 29 16:49:59 2009 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 18:49:59 EST Subject: [TR] Standard Triumph on YouTube Message-ID: John A great clip of history. I do love those old newsreels and promotional films. IM once again amazed at how small the factory was. Reminds me of our steel window plant in Liverpool. I also notice how we used to do things the right way. Like build factories that where long thin buildings to accommodate production "lines". Today we build square boxes and try to manufacture by lapping the building 2 times. oh what progress? Frank Fisher **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Jan 29 17:31:44 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 17:31:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <006b01c98227$9a7082d0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> References: <006b01c98227$9a7082d0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: <7bb181af0901291631x6191e36fnf1b80767c1155a1c@mail.gmail.com> Ed -- I am curious what aspect finally defested you. I haven't had to try this but would really dread pulling the apron off of mine as over the years so much has probably been tweaked, painted and goodness knows what to get the sheet metal to look right. Geo On 1/29/09, Ed Oot wrote: > After researching all the advice on removal of the TR3 steering box without > removing the apron, I gave it a shot. After 10 hours of frustration in the > attempt, I finally gave up... From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jan 29 17:59:21 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 19:59:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? In-Reply-To: <20090129145544.ZBZZ22988.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <498157C0.17107.441471A@localhost> Message-ID: <49820A99.26300.6FBE981@localhost> On 29 Jan 2009 at 6:55, Randall wrote: > Jim, I never know whether to take you seriously or not. He! I consider that a good thing :-) but in fact I was asking a real qustion. "Control head" could mean most anything! Thanks for the reply. > But yes, the "control head" on a TR2-3 is something electrical. I see. Hmm, the setup on my GT6 is simpler than the one on the Spitfire, but neither is especially complicated. The Spitfire's headlight dimmer switch is marred by a design curiosity, a plastic spring prone to breaking in cold weather. Otherwise, there ain't much to 'em. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jan 29 18:05:17 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 18:05:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901291631x6191e36fnf1b80767c1155a1c@mail.gmail.com> References: <006b01c98227$9a7082d0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> <7bb181af0901291631x6191e36fnf1b80767c1155a1c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <919E00C26FBC40229DADBB36EC35449D@sniffer> I am sure someone out there has the link, but there is a guy who hinged his front apron for easy access to his engine compartment. I always wondered if anyone ever engineered a kit for this purpose? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 5:32 PM To: Ed Oot Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] It might be possible, but.... Ed -- I am curious what aspect finally defested you. I haven't had to try this but would really dread pulling the apron off of mine as over the years so much has probably been tweaked, painted and goodness knows what to get the sheet metal to look right. Geo On 1/29/09, Ed Oot wrote: > After researching all the advice on removal of the TR3 steering box > without removing the apron, I gave it a shot. After 10 hours of > frustration in the attempt, I finally gave up... This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.233 / Virus Database: 270.10.15/1922 - Release Date: 01/28/09 19:24:00 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 29 18:09:58 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 17:09:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0901291631x6191e36fnf1b80767c1155a1c@mail.gmail.com> References: <006b01c98227$9a7082d0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> <7bb181af0901291631x6191e36fnf1b80767c1155a1c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <0ef301c98277$78d0d1c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Ed -- I am curious what aspect finally defested you. Me too. I'm wondering though, if perhaps your car has a solid column, rather than split. I've done a split column box with the apron in place, and I still think it's easier than doing the apron R&R (including all the other various parts that have to be R&R to get the apron off). But I agree, it's impossible with a solid column car. Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu Jan 29 19:17:55 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 20:17:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... References: <006b01c98227$9a7082d0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> <7bb181af0901291631x6191e36fnf1b80767c1155a1c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <7ECBBA9EE88C427A92246949A5F80AF8@KARL> I'm curious about this defesting business. Must one be infested before being defested ?? ;-) > Ed -- I am curious what aspect finally defested you. I haven't had to > try this but would really dread pulling the apron off of mine as over > the years so much has probably been tweaked, painted and goodness > knows what to get the sheet metal to look right. > > Geo From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Jan 29 18:15:01 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 17:15:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] control head redesign? In-Reply-To: References: <20090129145544.ZBZZ22988.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <49825495.5040101@comcast.net> The whole control head concept hasn't come to an end yet. My brother currently has the cruise control assembly apart in his Jeep Cherokee. The push buttons are all mounted on the horn ring in the center of the steering wheel along with the air bag. The whole thing has a "clock spring" assembly to keep the wires from twisting up when the wheel is turned. It sounds like a pain to put back together properly. They must still be testing on the general public! Mike John Macartney wrote: > Randall wrote: >> Not sure how far the history of the TR2-3 unit goes >> back, but I think it was on the Mayflower as well. It's made only of >> Bakelite, brass and steel (with a chromed trim strip). > > It goes back further than that, Randall. With absolute certainty to at > least 1935. ISTR that in itself was a carryover from the even earlier > days of throttle and ignition levers being in the centre of the > steering wheel. All Standard cars were fitted with that type of > control head with the added luxury of a telescopic steering column on > the more expensive models. Fair to say they perhaps "never got it > exactly right" so decided to persevere for another twenty odd years > plus, with the general public being the test facility - until they > finally gave up and tried another method :) From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Jan 29 19:57:05 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 21:57:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <0ef301c98277$78d0d1c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <006b01c98227$9a7082d0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> <7bb181af0901291631x6191e36fnf1b80767c1155a1c@mail.gmail.com> <0ef301c98277$78d0d1c0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > I'm wondering though, if perhaps your car has a solid column, rather than> split. I've done a split column box with the apron in place, and I still> think it's easier than doing the apron R&R (including all the other various> parts that have to be R&R to get the apron off).> > But I agree, it's impossible with a solid column car.> > Randall Sorry, Ed, gotta jump in here. I was there, Randall. It's a split column. Ed had printed out your e-mails with the instructions for removing the steering unit without first removing the front apron and followed them faithfully. There is no way that unit was coming out! Simply not enough clearance. AND, even if it could come out, removing the apron is so easy, the apron could have been removed and installed eighteen times in the time it took to prove that it is impossible to remove the unit with the apron in place! What various parts? Four bumper bolts, four bolts on top of the apron, 12 bolts on the sides, four bolts on the bottom, electrical connections, and the starting handle guide stay bolt. Voila! Off comes the apron! Easy as P-I-E! There is simply no reason in the world to even attempt to get that bugger out with the apron in place. Unless the apron has been welded on by a PO, I guess. I have no idea why or how you did it. I only know that there was no way that unit was coming out with the apron in place. I've said my piece and counted to ten. John H. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jan 29 20:36:34 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 19:36:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090130033633.NFBK23506.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > There is no way that unit was coming out! Let me be clear, John, I am not challenging you or Ed. I have no doubt you found what you found, I'm just trying to understand why it was different than what I found. It bothers me to think I've given out bad information and wasted someone's valuable time, so I would like to know what went wrong. > Simply not enough clearance. Not enough clearance where ? What did it hit, that you couldn't get past? > What various parts? Four bumper bolts, four bolts on top of > the apron, 12 bolts on the sides, four bolts on the bottom, > electrical connections, and the starting handle guide stay > bolt. Er, well, you left out all the screws that hold the grille in place. > There is simply no reason in the world to even attempt to get that bugger out Except that's 3 major assemblies plus something like two dozen more bolts and a dozen more electrical connections than I removed. Not to mention the very real possibility of having one of the caged nuts spin in it's cage. Or one of the tabs on the fender beads scratch the paint. Randall From rpeglow at optonline.net Fri Jan 30 09:14:55 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 08:14:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] emission standards? References: Message-ID: <002a01c982f5$e3e7afa0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> NY State, no emissions testing. Only safety items, lights, signals, brakes etc. are checked. Annual inspection = $10.00, price is right. Regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11650 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jan 30 06:33:10 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 08:33:10 EST Subject: [TR] GT6 Rear end. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/29/2009 12:45:58 PM Central Standard Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > >>I was recently contacted by the owner of a GT6 who says that his rear end > >>recently went out. > > > >Last time my rear end went out I was threatened with an indecent exposure > >suit. > > And that would be a suit with extra zippers, I take it? Tailors can do > amazing things too, apparently. > Good idea. Velcro can lead to wardrobe malfunctions. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jan 30 06:46:16 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 08:46:16 EST Subject: [TR] control head redesign? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/29/2009 8:21:17 PM Central Standard Time, mlang99 at comcast.net writes: > The whole control head concept hasn't come to an end yet. My brother > currently has the cruise control assembly apart in his Jeep Cherokee. > The push buttons are all mounted on the horn ring in the center of the > steering wheel along with the air bag. The whole thing has a "clock > spring" assembly to keep the wires from twisting up when the wheel is > turned. It sounds like a pain to put back together properly. They must > still be testing on the general public! > Both Ford and GM use the watchspring. I think it has something to do with the lack of confidence in a slip ring's reliability and an air bag. Reminds me of many years ago my MG's horn wouldn't work. I traced it to a bad ground through the steering column. I connected a wire to the column, wrapped it around the column a few times and attached it to ground. It lasted long enough to pass inspection. (Some months later I was servicing the steering column for some reason or other and I shot some penetrating oil into the steering shaft U-joints and my horn started working again.) It's nice to see one of my ideas come to fruition. Dave From eoot at citlink.net Fri Jan 30 07:35:29 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 09:35:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... References: <20090130033633.NFBK23506.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <002e01c982e7$fff6a420$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Randall I think you can tell it was frustrating for John as well. It sure seemed like we did everything per the instructions. It was initially a bit of a struggle to clear the lower bracket. Also found it necessary to remove the coil and disconnect the fuel line at the pump to allow additional swing of upper end of the lower shaft. Once that was cleared the box would not clear between the radiator and the sheet metal of the inner fender. I disliked the concept of forcing past the radiator but cautiously proceeded. We were unable to get completely past as then the drop arm was bumping up against the motor mount ( remember that at this point the left side of the engine is jacked). I think it was at this point, that coupled with the problems already encountered, along with no clear vision as to how, even if we got it past that point, that it would clear the next obstacle, we abandoned the effort. I don't think you have given out bad information as others have been successful with it. Fortunately there were no troublesome bolts in removing the apron. I do understand that the remounting is the greater challenge, and I don't look forward to it. BTW we did not remove the grill. Didn't seem necessary. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:36 PM Subject: Re: [TR] It might be possible, but.... >> There is no way that unit was coming out! > > Let me be clear, John, I am not challenging you or Ed. I have no doubt > you > found what you found, I'm just trying to understand why it was different > than what I found. It bothers me to think I've given out bad information > and wasted someone's valuable time, so I would like to know what went > wrong. > >> Simply not enough clearance. > > Not enough clearance where ? What did it hit, that you couldn't get past? > >> What various parts? Four bumper bolts, four bolts on top of >> the apron, 12 bolts on the sides, four bolts on the bottom, >> electrical connections, and the starting handle guide stay >> bolt. > > Er, well, you left out all the screws that hold the grille in place. > >> There is simply no reason in the world to even attempt to get that bugger > out > > Except that's 3 major assemblies plus something like two dozen more bolts > and a dozen more electrical connections than I removed. Not to mention > the > very real possibility of having one of the caged nuts spin in it's cage. > Or > one of the tabs on the fender beads scratch the paint. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 30 07:44:19 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 14:44:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] control head redesign? now TR4 horn. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1083357550.456691233326659154.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > Reminds me of many years ago my MG's horn wouldn't work. I traced it > to a > bad ground through the steering column. I connected a wire to the > column, > wrapped it around the column a few times and attached it to ground. I did that with the TR4. Worked until the wire broke. Now I have properly fixed the grounds on the steering shaft and the horn works fine. Problem is there is some sort of intermittant short in the column causing the horn to beep when I don't want it to. Sue and I were getting dirty looks as we crept through the crowds at Back To The 50s. Sue instructed me to disconnect the horn, so now I'm back where I started, with no horn. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 30 08:22:05 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 10:22:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <20090130033633.NFBK23506.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090130033633.NFBK23506.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: > > There is simply no reason in the world to even attempt to get that bugger> out > > Except that's 3 major assemblies plus something like two dozen more bolts> and a dozen more electrical connections than I removed. Not to mention the> very real possibility of having one of the caged nuts spin in it's cage. Or> one of the tabs on the fender beads scratch the paint.> > Randall Ed answered all your questions better than I can, and with more calm than I did last night after my Gin & Tonic Therapy Session. Years ago when I removed the front apron from The Blue TR3, a couple caged nuts escaped captivity and I ground the bolt heads away with a Dremel tool. Even so, that was easier than what Ed went through trying to remove the steering unit with the front apron in place. And then, if I had known of your method back then and was successful, the nuts would still be spinning, so I would still have that problem. The racecar's front apron nuts remained in captivity both times that I removed the apron. The wing beading tabs didn't scratch the paint in either case. Not that I would have cared too much about that anyways. My point is that it is easier to remove the front apron than to wrestle that unit out with it still in place. John H. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Jan 30 08:31:11 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 10:31:11 EST Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... Message-ID: In a message dated 1/30/2009 7:23:08 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, jrherrera90 at hotmail.com writes: My point is that it is easier to remove the front apron than to wrestle that unit out with it still in place. John H. John, I have owned my TR since 1964 (I paid $400 for it from my boss). I can't begin to count how many times I have had the apron off. I've always done my own work, but I remember I used to see TR3s at the dealership in Glendale with the apron tilter forward but not removed. I think they just left a bottom bolt on each side. I've never tried that, but guys trying to make a living as a mechanic tend to find fast ways to do things. I also can't imagine having a TR3 without becoming skilled at removing the apron. There are just too many things there that are much easier to R&R with the apron off-such as the radiator. Mike Moore 59 TR3 **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Fri Jan 30 08:39:49 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 10:39:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] gas guzzlers Message-ID: <26A8D00A-3612-4383-9D24-03728A89398B@mgcarclub.com> I think this was under discussion recently. To sum up: in order for the government to take your gas guzzling, clunker TR, you would have to voluntarily trade it in on a brand new, more fuel efficient car. AND this is only under discussion (ie: hot air). http://online.wsj.com/article/SB123326607809230441.html From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Jan 30 09:28:18 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 11:28:18 EST Subject: [TR] Dash Switch Bezel wrench Message-ID: Yes...indeed...wish I could have bought one of these about 30 years ago - just think how many bezel nuts could have been saved by now:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 1/29/2009 12:40:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Almost as if someone is listening ... **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Jan 30 09:29:08 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 11:29:08 EST Subject: [TR] Mayflower Reminder Message-ID: George, That's sooo bad it's great!!! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 1/29/2009 12:57:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, GHaynesTR4 at aol.com writes: Someone mentioned Mayflower and I can't resist: My Father in Law once owned a Model A Ford which he called the Mayflower because..... ready for this... So many girls came across in it! Sorry! George ************** Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as chip19474 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Fri Jan 30 09:50:07 2009 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 11:50:07 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... Message-ID: <4630658.1233334207795.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi Folks, I agree with Randall - one of the main concerns is scraching the paint, especially on re-assembly. I've had the apron off - not as bad as I had thought (none of the caged nuts were rusted) and it was cool to see all the parts exposed. However, it was real scary trying to position the apron back on without taking a gouge of paint off the fender. A tip I read later was to lay down lots of masking tape on areas that you might bang the apron into. Cheers, Adrian TS58324 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Jan 30 09:54:30 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 16:54:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] How to fix TR4 horn. In-Reply-To: <1083357550.456691233326659154.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1083357550.456691233326659154.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: The fix for the intermittent horn beeping is simple. Remove the turn signal switch from the steering column. Using appropriate pliers remove the turn signal deactivator clip from the steering shaft. The clip has a dimple in it the will locate it on the steering shaft when reinstalled. Cut off half the distance from the dimple to the top of the clip. Reinstall the clip and turn signal switch. Best regards, Tom > Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 14:44:19 +0000 > From: pethier at comcast.net > To: Dave1massey at cs.com > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] control head redesign? now TR4 horn. > > ----- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > Reminds me of many years ago my MG's horn wouldn't work. I traced it > > to a > > bad ground through the steering column. I connected a wire to the > > column, > > wrapped it around the column a few times and attached it to ground. > > I did that with the TR4. Worked until the wire broke. > > Now I have properly fixed the grounds on the steering shaft and the horn works fine. Problem is there is some sort of intermittant short in the column causing the horn to beep when I don't want it to. Sue and I were getting dirty looks as we crept through the crowds at Back To The 50s. Sue instructed me to disconnect the horn, so now I'm back where I started, with no horn. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_012009 From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 30 10:47:22 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 17:47:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <4630658.1233334207795.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <2140359956.537101233337642246.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Adrian Jones" wrote: > I've had the apron off - not as bad as I had thought (none of the > caged nuts were rusted) and it was cool to see all the parts exposed. > However, it was real scary trying to position the apron back on > without taking a gouge of paint off the fender. > > A tip I read later was to lay down lots of masking tape on areas that > you might bang the apron into. Makes sense. I also would not pass up the opportunity to anti-sieze the caged nuts. You might have to do this again sometime. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jan 30 11:04:36 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 13:04:36 EST Subject: [TR] control head redesign? now TR4 horn. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/30/2009 8:44:41 AM Central Standard Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > Now I have properly fixed the grounds on the steering shaft and the horn > works fine. Problem is there is some sort of intermittant short in the column > causing the horn to beep when I don't want it to. Sue and I were getting > dirty looks as we crept through the crowds at Back To The 50s. Sue instructed > me to disconnect the horn, so now I'm back where I started, with no horn. > I would look at the Bush sleeve in the steering wheel. It may be broken and is allowing the bush to contact the metal part of the wheel. Does it happen when you crank the wheel or just randomly? Dave From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 30 11:24:31 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 18:24:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] control head redesign? now TR4 horn. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2109133646.554121233339871923.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > I would look at the Bush sleeve in the steering wheel. It may be > broken and > is allowing the bush to contact the metal part of the wheel. Does it > happen > when you crank the wheel or just randomly? Just randomly. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 30 11:30:02 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 10:30:02 -0800 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <002e01c982e7$fff6a420$650a0a0a@MyComputski> References: <20090130033633.NFBK23506.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> <002e01c982e7$fff6a420$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: <0fff01c98308$c48690a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Thanks for the reply, Ed. > It was initially a bit of a > struggle to clear the lower bracket. Yeah, that sounds familiar. ISTR I went in from underneath with a screwdriver and pried the steering box bracket out of the frame bracket. But I believe that would be the same without the apron, at least that's what I did on TS13571L as well. > Also found it necessary to remove the > coil and disconnect the fuel line at the pump to allow additional swing of > upper end of the lower shaft. On my car the inlet to the pump goes under the steering column, while the outlet runs over very close to the engine block before it goes up past the column. Is yours routed differently? And by the time the engine was jacked over far enough to allow the column to clear between the front plate and upper steering bracket; the coil was nowhere close. But my coil is not original, so perhaps that was the difference. > Once that was cleared the box would not > clear between the radiator and the sheet metal of the inner fender. Hmm. I'll have to take a look at that. ISTR that, on my car, the box itself is mounted behind the radiator, so didn't need to go through that gap. And since the radiator is on one side of the frame bracket; and the inner fender is on the other side, the gap between radiator and inner fender is wider than the bracket. In any case, I did not force anything (especially a radiator!). > We were > unable to get completely past as then the drop arm was bumping up against > the motor mount ( remember that at this point the left side of the engine > is jacked). Again, I don't recall that being a problem. By then, I had the column swung up so the drop arm could come up over the motor mount & front plate. That was why the horn had to come loose, so the box could come through the space where the horn was normally. > BTW we did not remove the grill. Didn't seem necessary. How did you get to the bolts that hold the apron 'shelf' to the inner fenders? It's been awhile, but I don't recall any other way to get in there on my car. In addition, I didn't have the bumper uprights installed, so I also had to remove the two bolts where the uprights normally hold the cardboard deflector to the inner fender. Anyway, I'm very sorry it didn't work out for you. I'll have to revisit the subject when I disassemble TS39781L; and maybe take a few pictures this time. Wish I knew some way to keep my digital camera from turning itself off. Seems like it always powers off between shots, which means I have to flip the power switch off and on, wait for it to wake up, then push three different buttons to take the next shot. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Jan 30 11:34:09 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 13:34:09 EST Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... Message-ID: In a message dated 1/30/2009 9:48:10 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: Makes sense. I also would not pass up the opportunity to anti-sieze the caged nuts. You might have to do this again sometime. Over the years, I have also had to replace some cages and nuts. I drilled holes in the wings of the cages and used tiny nuts and flathead (countersunk) screws (#4) to attach the cages (no welding). Mike Moore 59 TR3 **************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jan 30 11:53:07 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 18:53:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <0fff01c98308$c48690a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <250566489.568951233341587381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Randall" wrote: > Wish I knew some way to keep my digital camera from turning itself > off. > Seems like it always powers off between shots, which means I have to > flip > the power switch off and on, wait for it to wake up, then push three > different buttons to take the next shot. They may all be different, but every digi camera I have shot goes to sleep after a while, but will wake up again with a half-push on the shutter button. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jan 30 12:05:19 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 11:05:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <250566489.568951233341587381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <0fff01c98308$c48690a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <250566489.568951233341587381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <101901c9830d$b2572980$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > but every digi camera I have shot goes to sleep > after a while, but will wake up again with a half-push on the shutter > button. Thanks, Phil, I'll try that. It's an old Fuji Finepix 700. Randall From pryner at verizon.net Fri Jan 30 12:16:01 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 14:16:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <250566489.568951233341587381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <250566489.568951233341587381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <9496D8EEFB0B4206AE4FAFC1D29F4F65@PetePC> Mine has a power off energy saver too - shuts down after about 2 minutes. I have to turn it off then back on to get it going again. If I'm waiting for a particular shot, I turn it off and on every so often so it is ready when the shot is available. I believe I can change the settings somewhere but it hasn't caused too much of a problem Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Randall" Cc: "Triumph List" Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 1:53 PM Subject: Re: [TR] It might be possible, but.... > ----- "Randall" wrote: > >> Wish I knew some way to keep my digital camera from turning itself >> off. >> Seems like it always powers off between shots, which means I have to >> flip >> the power switch off and on, wait for it to wake up, then push three >> different buttons to take the next shot. > > They may all be different, but every digi camera I have shot goes to sleep > after a while, but will wake up again with a half-push on the shutter > button. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From eoot at citlink.net Fri Jan 30 12:24:43 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 14:24:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... References: <0fff01c98308$c48690a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com><250566489.568951233341587381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <101901c9830d$b2572980$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <00b001c98310$67b39eb0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> figures, mine's a Fuij Finepix A340 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 2:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] It might be possible, but.... >> but every digi camera I have shot goes to sleep >> after a while, but will wake up again with a half-push on the shutter >> button. > > Thanks, Phil, I'll try that. It's an old Fuji Finepix 700. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jan 30 14:43:14 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 16:43:14 EST Subject: [TR] control head redesign? now TR4 horn. Message-ID: In a message dated 1/30/2009 12:24:46 PM Central Standard Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > ---- Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > >I would look at the Bush sleeve in the steering wheel. It may be > >broken and > >is allowing the bush to contact the metal part of the wheel. Does it > >happen > >when you crank the wheel or just randomly? > > Just randomly. > In that case it could be anywhere in the wiring between the horn push and the horn. Check for shorts to ground, and wire-to-wire shorts in the harness. Dave From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 30 15:11:10 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 17:11:10 EST Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... Message-ID: In a message dated 1/30/2009 11:50:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, adrianjones747 at earthlink.net writes: A tip I read later was to lay down lots of masking tape on areas that you might bang the apron into. I painted mine disassembled and that is exactly how I assembled. Not a scratch! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your credit score. (http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002) From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri Jan 30 19:50:25 2009 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 19:50:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting Message-ID: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> Starting to put the repaired body back together in prep for the final coats of paint and I am just now coming to the realization that the long tubes/bushings that the rear bumperette bracket bolts go through are probably permanently attached to the rear apron. Of course, when I took the car apart these came loose freely as I disassembled everything. So, If I need to go back and weld these in place, can someone tell me how much of the tube should protrude past the sheet metal of the rear apron... Or should it be flush? Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Jan 30 20:54:45 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 19:54:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> Message-ID: <4983CB85.4020508@comcast.net> Bill, I have a 57 TR3 and and a 61 TR3A. Both are welded flush with the surface of the apron. The TR3A was severely rear ended at some point so it may not be a good reference, but the TR3 rear apron was relatively unmolested. Thanks, Mike Bill Beecher wrote: > Starting to put the repaired body back together in prep for the final coats > of paint and I am just now coming to the realization that the long > tubes/bushings that the rear bumperette bracket bolts go through are > probably permanently attached to the rear apron. Of course, when I took the > car apart these came loose freely as I disassembled everything. > > So, If I need to go back and weld these in place, can someone tell me how > much of the tube should protrude past the sheet metal of the rear apron... > Or should it be flush? From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Jan 31 06:58:48 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 06:58:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> Message-ID: <206288C426CD4DEFA1688291C4003D82@JimofficePC> These are NOT welded to the car body they 'float' in their respective holes! Jim Bauder -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Beecher Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 7:50 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting Starting to put the repaired body back together in prep for the final coats of paint and I am just now coming to the realization that the long tubes/bushings that the rear bumperette bracket bolts go through are probably permanently attached to the rear apron. Of course, when I took the car apart these came loose freely as I disassembled everything. So, If I need to go back and weld these in place, can someone tell me how much of the tube should protrude past the sheet metal of the rear apron... Or should it be flush? Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Jan 31 07:02:42 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 09:02:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> Message-ID: <004101c983ac$9614f820$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Bill, If you're speaking about the heavy metal tube immediately surrounding the bolt, it was not originally welded. When I reassembled my TR3, I installed that tube with heavy grease or never seize so that it would not rust to the rear apron. The rear apron itself has a partial metal tube of sheet metal into which this heavy walled tube and bolt fit. One end of this tube rests solidly against the frame, the other establishes the position of the bumperette mounting bracket, so the tube must be of the proper length. Ed Woods From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 31 08:16:10 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 10:16:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <004101c983ac$9614f820$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> <004101c983ac$9614f820$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <200901311016.10881.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 31 January 2009 09:02:42 Ed Woods wrote: > Bill, > > If you're speaking about the heavy metal tube immediately surrounding the > bolt, it was not originally welded. When I reassembled my TR3, I installed > that tube with heavy grease or never seize so that it would not rust to the > rear apron. The rear apron itself has a partial metal tube of sheet metal > into which this heavy walled tube and bolt fit. One end of this tube rests > solidly against the frame, the other establishes the position of the > bumperette mounting bracket, so the tube must be of the proper length. > > Ed Woods Bill, Ed is correct. The tube is held in place by a long bolt. Nut side towards the apron. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 31 08:43:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 07:43:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> Message-ID: <20090131154354.KWWK22141.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Starting to put the repaired body back together in prep for > the final coats of paint and I am just now coming to the > realization that the long tubes/bushings that the rear > bumperette bracket bolts go through are probably permanently > attached to the rear apron. Bill, To echo what others said, I believe they should be loose. All of mine have been. The SPC describes them as "602001 tube, distance, fitted in rear body panel"; but if they were welded, I think they would be described as part of the panel (like the cage nuts). I happen to have a couple handy, they are 4-1/8" long. If they don't protrude slightly, the bumper brackets will hit the body. Not necessarily a bad thing, but they didn't touch on any of my cars. I'd guess somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2" would be about right. Might be worth a trial fitting, as the wrong length will tilt the bumperettes. The SPC also shows a flat washer between the bumper bracket and the tube, but my cars didn't have them. Quite possibly left off by previous owners/mechanics, tho. Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jan 31 07:55:58 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 06:55:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <20090131154354.KWWK22141.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090131154354.KWWK22141.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4984667E.6010909@comcast.net> I learned something good from this today. Neither of my cars had the bumper brackets installed when I get them so I didn't know about the distance tube that goes over the bolt. I was referring to the sheet metal tube that the distance tube goes through in my prior post. It is welded on both ends. I had wondered what spaced the body away from the bumper bracket and frame. I am getting close to installing the body back on the frame so now I know how all these pieces are supposed to go back together. Thanks! Mike > Bill, To echo what others said, I believe they should be loose. All of mine > have been. The SPC describes them as "602001 tube, distance, fitted in rear > body panel"; but if they were welded, I think they would be described as > part of the panel (like the cage nuts). > > I happen to have a couple handy, they are 4-1/8" long. > > If they don't protrude slightly, the bumper brackets will hit the body. Not > necessarily a bad thing, but they didn't touch on any of my cars. I'd guess > somewhere between 1/4" and 1/2" would be about right. Might be worth a > trial fitting, as the wrong length will tilt the bumperettes. The SPC also > shows a flat washer between the bumper bracket and the tube, but my cars > didn't have them. Quite possibly left off by previous owners/mechanics, > tho. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 31 09:11:08 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 08:11:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... In-Reply-To: <010201c98321$0f1e4050$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: <20090131161108.DPDN6485.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > First, was your column the adjustable type? Nope, fixed type. Shouldn't affect the problem, as I believe the lower column was identical, on cars with the split column. > I'm trying to > figure out why your box was behind the radiator. I'll have to double-check, I may have misremembered that part. But at the very least, it is already between the side of the radiator and the inner fender, so shouldn't be a tight fit there. > Second, you had mention that it wasn't necessary to jack the > engine much. > How much would you say you had it jacked off the left side mount? Actually, what I did was to take both mounts loose, and both raise it and move it to the right a bit. It was only my theory that I didn't need to move it that far. But the critical point is that the engine front plate (at the edge of the timing cover) has to move far enough away from the upper steering bracket to allow the tube to slip between them. Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Jan 31 08:08:19 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 07:08:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <4984667E.6010909@comcast.net> References: <20090131154354.KWWK22141.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> <4984667E.6010909@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49846963.40104@comcast.net> One additional note: I now get to wade back through all of the cardboard boxes of loose parts that came with my two cars looking for the distance tubes! I got lucky when I bought these two cars. They were mostly in pieces, but the prior owner had saved everything. Much of it is labeled in baggies. In some instances there are extra sets of parts to pick from. It's been an adventure. Sort of like opening Christmas presents every time I tackle a new part of the car! Thanks, Mike Michael Lang wrote: > I learned something good from this today. > > Neither of my cars had the bumper brackets installed when I get them so > I didn't know about the distance tube that goes over the bolt. I was > referring to the sheet metal tube that the distance tube goes through in > my prior post. It is welded on both ends. I had wondered what spaced the > body away from the bumper bracket and frame. From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Jan 31 09:43:53 2009 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 09:43:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <200901311016.10881.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> <004101c983ac$9614f820$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> <200901311016.10881.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <7046A7B692304238AC4230FAB92C6585@sniffer> Thanks to all, I love this list!!! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: Bob [mailto:yellowtr at adelphia.net] Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 8:16 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Bill Beecher Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting On Saturday 31 January 2009 09:02:42 Ed Woods wrote: > Bill, > > If you're speaking about the heavy metal tube immediately surrounding > the bolt, it was not originally welded. When I reassembled my TR3, I > installed that tube with heavy grease or never seize so that it would > not rust to the rear apron. The rear apron itself has a partial metal > tube of sheet metal into which this heavy walled tube and bolt fit. > One end of this tube rests solidly against the frame, the other > establishes the position of the bumperette mounting bracket, so the tube must be of the proper length. > > Ed Woods Bill, Ed is correct. The tube is held in place by a long bolt. Nut side towards the apron. Bob From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Jan 31 10:08:22 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 17:08:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <206288C426CD4DEFA1688291C4003D82@JimofficePC> References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer> <206288C426CD4DEFA1688291C4003D82@JimofficePC> Message-ID: > These are NOT welded to the car body they 'float' in their respective holes! How much water do you add to keep them floating? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.:more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_explore_ 012009 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 31 11:25:53 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 12:25:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer><206288C426CD4DEFA1688291C4003D82@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <002a01c983d1$ea85ca90$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> they float in the oil from the automatic rust prevention system ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; ; Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:08 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting >> These are NOT welded to the car body they 'float' in their respective > holes! > > How much water do you add to keep them floating? > > Best regards, > Tom From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat Jan 31 13:19:20 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 15:19:20 EST Subject: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 Message-ID: Hi all, I'm helping an older gent gradually bring a 1973 TR6 that he inherited from a friend back to life. He's done a nice job with the chassis and body tub and is starting to tackle new wiring harnesses, etc. Today, he realized that he doesn't know where the OD relay should be mounted. I'm thinking that it should go under the horn relay (next to the fuse box) but we're not really sure. My 76 TR6 has a horn relay and bulb test relay next to the fuse box which raises a question in my mind..."If I had overdrive, where would my OD relay be mounted?" I seem to recall that TR4's had OD relays mounted in the passenger side footwell behind the glovebox??? Thanks, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Jan 31 14:57:17 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 14:57:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <16BEEEFBBAA941F2B7EFE52CF5C62601@JimofficePC> That's right Chip. The two relays share the screws and bracket. Jim Bauder -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chip19474 at aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 1:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 Hi all, I'm helping an older gent gradually bring a 1973 TR6 that he inherited from a friend back to life. He's done a nice job with the chassis and body tub and is starting to tackle new wiring harnesses, etc. Today, he realized that he doesn't know where the OD relay should be mounted. I'm thinking that it should go under the horn relay (next to the fuse box) but we're not really sure. My 76 TR6 has a horn relay and bulb test relay next to the fuse box which raises a question in my mind..."If I had overdrive, where would my OD relay be mounted?" I seem to recall that TR4's had OD relays mounted in the passenger side footwell behind the glovebox??? Thanks, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http:// www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jan 31 17:51:35 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 16:51:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... Message-ID: <20090201005135.LSBI6485.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Just had a good look at TS13571L; and I think perhaps I see the problem. Ed, did I forget to mention that the cross tube had to be removed? Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jan 31 20:52:16 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 20:52:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: <002a01c983d1$ea85ca90$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer><206288C426CD4DEFA1688291C4003D82@JimofficePC> <002a01c983d1$ea85ca90$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: One last question... Are the tubes painted black or body color? Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:26 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting they float in the oil from the automatic rust prevention system ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; ; Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:08 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting >> These are NOT welded to the car body they 'float' in their respective > holes! > > How much water do you add to keep them floating? > > Best regards, > Tom This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Sat Jan 31 21:09:23 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 21:09:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: References: <0A208B07F5F549E1A023B2B62071068B@sniffer><206288C426CD4DEFA1688291C4003D82@JimofficePC><002a01c983d1$ea85ca90$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <194557AFBDD444EC87C8AAC0C515C27F@JimofficePC> I painted mine black, not sure what they were originally! Jim Bauder -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 8:52 PM To: 'oliver'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting One last question... Are the tubes painted black or body color? Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:26 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting they float in the oil from the automatic rust prevention system ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; ; Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 11:08 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting >> These are NOT welded to the car body they 'float' in their respective > holes! > > How much water do you add to keep them floating? > > Best regards, > Tom This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive