[TR] TR3 Cooling

Brian Jones banc8004 at comcast.net
Sat Feb 21 11:06:50 MST 2009


Richard,
Rather than start by spending $$$, check first if the radiator is  
redeemable with a bloody good flush. Back-flushing is more effective  
than flushing in the direction that the system circulates, but it  
requires removing the radiator - not the hardest of tasks. Remove and  
invert the radiator and flush it with running water from a garden hose  
until the water runs clear. Shake the rad while the water is flowing.  
For added effect, if they do what it says on the tin, try one of the  
flushing products that dissolve crud to assist the flushing process.

You may also find value in flushing the block. Each season, I flush  
the rad, block and heater as three separate units so that I don't wash  
crud from one unit into the other.

You might be surprised to see how much crud washes out if the system  
if it hasn't been flushed for a while. If you are still overheating,  
then look to improve airflow. There has been some discussion that the  
high flow impellers are not more effective than the original as they  
can cause cavitation.

Brian
Valley Forge

> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 08:05:45 -0800 (PST)
> From: richard triplett <rtriplett25 at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <675678.72251.qm at web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> I am anticipating that winter will eventually end and would like to  
> get some work done on my TR3A. TS75434L has a tendency to run just a  
> little hot, even up in the cool mountains of northern new mexico. I  
> imagine the original radiator is getting a little tired, but I would  
> like to avoid replacing it for a while longer. It looks like I have  
> two options to help out the underperforming radiator:
>
> 1. The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in.  
> Moss sells a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed  
> yellow fan. Cost: $240
>
> 2. Remove fan altogether and go electric. My guess is this will get  
> the most airflow going. But will I miss the old fan and rush of air  
> sound? I feel like I might be taking something away from the car by  
> removing the fan. Cost: Less than $200.
>
> Well, there might be an option 3: rebuild the water pump with a high  
> flow impeller. Is this worth it?
>
> I'm not running any additives in the coolant (aside from  
> anitfreeze). Is water wetter or any other additive worth it to help  
> the system cool a little better?
>
> TIA - Richard


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