From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Feb 1 00:05:31 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 23:05:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Rear Apron & Bumperette mounting In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090201070531.FEYA5582.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > One last question... Are the tubes painted black or body color? I think mine were originally black, although there is some body color overspray on them now. Randall From carlsereda at aol.com Sun Feb 1 01:16:26 2009 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 00:16:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. Message-ID: <47ABC41A.3DFF.45C2.9A14.4F9B4FE402DF@aol.com> Great 3 minute TR3A video at YouTube - made in early 1970's buy a guy that's almost 60 now.. if you have a decent internet connection - go to address below, turn up the sound, and enjoy! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X5CIBK1kZg&feature=channel Cheers, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Feb 1 06:55:02 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 08:55:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Electrical Gremlins Message-ID: <0437C0BC3DAC4F6A86BCD40495472030@Scott> I am sorting through the electrical problems with my 59 TR3A restoration. I have the ignition switch working now, the starter push button and the rear lights all work. My problem seems to be with the wires/circuit coming off the ignition switch. Basically, none of the electricals work that draw its power from the ignition being turned on. I am going to try running a wire from the multi-ground post that is on the instrument center dash to a good ground since this could be the problem. The center dash is powder coated and I may not have a good metal to metal ground point to the chassis. My bigger concern right now is that when I turn on the ignition switch, the "hot" wire gets hot to the point that you can smell the plastic wire coating and it is getting soft. I draw the power from the Brown/Blue wire that comes from the harness to the side light switch (this is a continuous power since the lights come on even when the ignition switch is not turned on). The brown/blue wire seems to be about a 20 gauge wire and I am using a 16 gauge wire to connect to the switch, which I thought did not matter per a previous post. Any ideas on why this wire is getting so hot and what I need to do to correct it? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Feb 1 09:01:52 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:01:52 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A Electrical Gremlins Message-ID: Scott, I would suggest stopping right where you are. Disconnect the battery. Make a large xerox of the schemtic (local Staples etc). Make a "buzzer" using a lantern battery, a cheap door bell buzzer, some bell wire and alligator clips. Touching te two wires should make it buzz. With the battery disconnected, "ring out" each section of wires. Place one buzzer wire at one end of each circuit section and make sure the buzzer buzzes, then place one end to ground and make sure it does NOT buzz. Mark that section of wire off in green marker on your xerox copy. Continue until you are all greened on the schematic. I have followed this discipline rewiring several cars as a mistake can be a disaster. Good Luck! Mike Moore 59TR3A 62 Chrysler 300H 63 E Type 64 E Type ************** >From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023) From wcooper5 at triad.rr.com Sun Feb 1 09:06:54 2009 From: wcooper5 at triad.rr.com (Bill And Cathy Cooper) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:06:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. References: <47ABC41A.3DFF.45C2.9A14.4F9B4FE402DF@aol.com> Message-ID: <6E766492B37C45029DAC0C550B761920@Cooper> Myself at 16, back in 1971 . I am now in the process of removing the dents from that time period. Lots of memories , I still have the license registration cards from back then. The car was titled to my mother back then for insurance purposes. Bill Cooper 61 TR-3A TS 81102L ----- Original Message ----- From: "carlsereda" To: Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 3:16 AM Subject: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. > Great 3 minute TR3A video at YouTube - made in early 1970's buy a guy > that's > almost 60 now.. > > if you have a decent internet connection - go to address below, turn up > the > sound, and enjoy! > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0X5CIBK1kZg&feature=channel > > Cheers, > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wcooper5 at triad.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Feb 1 09:34:05 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 08:34:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Electrical Gremlins In-Reply-To: <0437C0BC3DAC4F6A86BCD40495472030@Scott> Message-ID: <20090201163405.GIWY21987.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I am going to try > running a wire from the multi-ground post that is on the > instrument center dash to a good ground since this could be > the problem. You should already have one. The factory wiring included a wire from that point to the 'E' terminal on the control box and another from the 'E' terminal to the body nearby. And the only thing powered from the ignition switch that relies on that ground is the fuel gauge. BTW, I would also suggest adding a ground wire from the gauge to the tie point, if you don't have one already. The ground between the gauge & panel is dubious even with the PC. > The brown/blue wire seems > to be about a 20 gauge wire Should be MUCH heavier than that, approx 10 AWG. Note that AWG (American Wire Gauge) sizes run 'backwards', smaller numbers are larger wire. > Any ideas on why this wire is getting so hot > and what I need to do to correct it? You have a short to ground somewhere. The excess current through the short is making the wire hot. This is how cars catch fire ... and likely also explains why nothing works. One approach is to temporarily connect an old headlight bulb across the switch terminals (with the switch off). The short will make it light brightly, but limit the current enough to hopefully avoid damaging the wiring. Then you can work at disconnecting various items (including wiring) until the short goes away. Or Mike's suggestion of a buzz box or powered test lamp is a good one, too. Note that most digital multimeters include a "buzz box" function, but are so sensitive that they will read continuity (and buzz) through even a small lamp. You can also work with an unpowered test lamp, like this one http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4288 by using the car battery as a source. Connect the lamp's ground to the hot terminal of the battery, then look for wires that make the lamp light when you touch them. If the usual load is disconnected, then the wire must be shorted to ground somewhere. You DO have the 'green' fuse pulled at this point, right? Also, make sure you've got the right schematic for your car. If you are looking at a "TR3" schematic with no range qualifiers, it's probably wrong in at least some details. For 59, I think you should see the green wire that runs out to the wiper motor and back to the brake light switch; plus the in-line fuse for the tail light circuit. Randall From eoot at citlink.net Sun Feb 1 09:51:50 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:51:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] It might be possible, but.... References: <20090201005135.LSBI6485.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <001501c9848d$611b15f0$690a0a0a@WANDERER> Actually, I think I recall reading in one ot the posts that it wasn't necessary to remove the cross tube. At any rate, I never got it far enough for that to be an issue, but I could not see a way to clear it while in place. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 7:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] It might be possible, but.... > Just had a good look at TS13571L; and I think perhaps I see the problem. > > Ed, did I forget to mention that the cross tube had to be removed? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From gprtech at frontiernet.net Sun Feb 1 10:43:06 2009 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 12:43:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Electrical Gremlins In-Reply-To: <0437C0BC3DAC4F6A86BCD40495472030@Scott> References: <0437C0BC3DAC4F6A86BCD40495472030@Scott> Message-ID: <4985DF2A.8040804@frontiernet.net> Scott, only a short someplace will make that wire get that hot. Use an ohmmeter and check the resistance from the point it connects to the switch to ground. George Richardson Scott Suhring wrote: > I am sorting through the electrical problems with my 59 TR3A restoration. I > have the ignition switch working now, the starter push button and the rear > lights all work. My problem seems to be with the wires/circuit coming off > the ignition switch. Basically, none of the electricals work that draw its > power from the ignition being turned on. I am going to try running a wire > from the multi-ground post that is on the instrument center dash to a good > ground since this could be the problem. The center dash is powder coated and > I may not have a good metal to metal ground point to the chassis. > > My bigger concern right now is that when I turn on the ignition switch, the > "hot" wire gets hot to the point that you can smell the plastic wire coating > and it is getting soft. I draw the power from the Brown/Blue wire that comes > from the harness to the side light switch (this is a continuous power since > the lights come on even when the ignition switch is not turned on). The > brown/blue wire seems to be about a 20 gauge wire and I am using a 16 gauge > wire to connect to the switch, which I thought did not matter per a previous > post. Any ideas on why this wire is getting so hot and what I need to do to > correct it? TIA > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as gprtech at frontiernet.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sun Feb 1 12:39:16 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 14:39:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. References: <47ABC41A.3DFF.45C2.9A14.4F9B4FE402DF@aol.com> <6E766492B37C45029DAC0C550B761920@Cooper> Message-ID: <002601c984a4$c494f850$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> List, Someone on the FOT list gave a reason for buying a TR and not an MG was that the TR had "Grunt". That clip demonstrates "Grunt". "Grunt" is the reason I talked my dad into trading the family '56 Buick for a '57 TR3 and not an MGA 50 years ago next month. Ed Woods From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sun Feb 1 15:08:13 2009 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 15:08:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew> <0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew> <0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> Message-ID: In those areas of Arizona that have emission testing collectible cars are exempt if you have a classic car insurance policy. The insurance companies report this to the state so you don't have to do anything to get teh exception, except pay for the policy. Marty On Thu, Jan 29, 2009 at 9:40 AM, Joe Curry wrote: > Hey Bob, > > Arizona still has areas where no emissions testing is in effect. Only in > the major metropolitan areas are they testing emissions. I live 15 miles > south of Tucson and none of my cars have to undergo such testing. That's > not to say that things will change in the future, though. But if you are > looking for somewhere to retire it is worth considering. > > > > There are lots of homes on the market these days ! :-) > > > > Joe From trhouse at columbus.rr.com Sun Feb 1 15:52:31 2009 From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder) Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 17:52:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Help in New kingstin NY In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I need some research help in Kingston NY I believe it is upstate. PLease contact me off list. tom From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sun Feb 1 17:26:01 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 16:26:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. In-Reply-To: <002601c984a4$c494f850$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <529956.29541.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Ed, They sure do have grunt and staying power. When I got my TR at 24 years of age, I abused the heck out of it. One time I overheated and was late to my job. The problem got so bad I lost oil pressure. Thankfully, as I exited the freeway a gas station was right there. Added water and was on my way. Never had any major work done on the engine till recently. I never could figure out why these cars got a reputation for being so temperamental. My car has always been hearty, with little complaints.. Pat TR4A '67 --- On Sun, 2/1/09, Ed Woods wrote: From: Ed Woods Subject: Re: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Sunday, February 1, 2009, 7:39 PM List, Someone on the FOT list gave a reason for buying a TR and not an MG was that the TR had "Grunt". That clip demonstrates "Grunt". "Grunt" is the reason I talked my dad into trading the family '56 Buick for a '57 TR3 and not an MGA 50 years ago next month. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Feb 1 17:50:20 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 19:50:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. In-Reply-To: <529956.29541.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <529956.29541.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200902011950.20988.yellowtr@adelphia.net> I must admit my first TR3 a 59 came into being because I was tired of always fixing my 57 MGA. Mostly the hydraulics. They had that Lockheed dual cyl. setup like the TR2. Also must have replaced the water pump at least 3 times and I could never figure out why the batteries (2) were behind the driver and passenger! I had a test drive in a 59 TR3 on a used car lot and I couldn't believe the difference in power and the way it accelerated out of 2nd gear. I was sold before I got back to the dealer. I sold the MGA to my brother, who drove it into the ground, and the bought the 3 which started a love affair with Triumphs that continues to this day. Bob 1958 TR3A, 1962 TR4, 1972 TR6 From trhouse at columbus.rr.com Sun Feb 1 18:07:03 2009 From: trhouse at columbus.rr.com (Tom Householder) Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2009 20:07:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Help in New Kingston NY (Delaware county) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: on 2/1/09 5:52 PM, Tom Householder at trhouse at columbus.rr.com wrote: > I need some research help in Kingston NY I believe it is upstate. > PLease contact me off list. > > tom > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as trhouse at columbus.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sun Feb 1 19:32:01 2009 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 18:32:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 References: Message-ID: <335013.50320.qm@web37508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Chip- There is no OD relay on the '73 TR6 OD circuit unless you decide to put one in. Your '76 has a horn relay and a starter relay....not a bulb test relay. Chad in Tulsa. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 15:19:20 EST From: Chip19474 at aol.com Subject: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi all, I'm helping an older gent gradually bring a 1973 TR6 that he inherited from a friend back to life. He's done a nice job with the chassis and body tub and is starting to tackle new wiring harnesses, etc. Today, he realized that he doesn't know where the OD relay should be mounted. I'm thinking that it should go under the horn relay (next to the fuse box) but we're not really sure. My 76 TR6 has a horn relay and bulb test relay next to the fuse box which raises a question in my mind..."If I had overdrive, where would my OD relay be mounted?" I seem to recall that TR4's had OD relays mounted in the passenger side footwell behind the glovebox??? Thanks, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http ://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 14:57:17 -0700 From: "Jim Bauder" Subject: Re: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 To: , Message-ID: <16BEEEFBBAA941F2B7EFE52CF5C62601 at JimofficePC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" That's right Chip. The two relays share the screws and bracket. Jim Bauder -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chip19474 at aol.com Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 1:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 Hi all, I'm helping an older gent gradually bring a 1973 TR6 that he inherited from a friend back to life. He's done a nice job with the chassis and body tub and is starting to tackle new wiring harnesses, etc. Today, he realized that he doesn't know where the OD relay should be mounted. I'm thinking that it should go under the horn relay (next to the fuse box) but we're not really sure. My 76 TR6 has a horn relay and bulb test relay next to the fuse box which raises a question in my mind..."If I had overdrive, where would my OD relay be mounted?" I seem to recall that TR4's had OD relays mounted in the passenger side footwell behind the glovebox??? Thanks, Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Feb 1 21:03:42 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 20:03:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 In-Reply-To: <335013.50320.qm@web37508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090202040341.DJRR6485.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > There is no OD relay on the '73 TR6 OD circuit unless you > decide to put one in. That's correct, assuming your car has a J-type OD. However, I'll bet there were a few A-types installed in "73" TR6s (actually made late in 72; and they would have had OD relays. > Your '76 has a horn relay and a starter relay....not a bulb > test relay. According to Dan's schematic, it's only energized when the starter is operated; and lights the PDWA and EGR lamps. Sure looks like "bulb test" to me ... Randall From mrm at clking.com Mon Feb 2 04:59:48 2009 From: mrm at clking.com (Mitch R. Meisler) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 06:59:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Help in New kingstin NY In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm near Kingston new york in ulster county. It's an 845 area code if that helps. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Householder Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 5:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Help in New kingstin NY I need some research help in Kingston NY I believe it is upstate. PLease contact me off list. tom This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as mrm at clking.com http://www.team.net/archive ______________________________________________________________________ This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System. For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email ______________________________________________________________________ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Feb 2 06:42:05 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 13:42:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. In-Reply-To: <200902011950.20988.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <529956.29541.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <200902011950.20988.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: My first TR3a was a 1961 which I purchased when I was 21. I was hard on it in ralleys so my main problems were the clutch and first gear. I had Hayes clutch, in those days they were in a shop in Westmnister, Ca., build an 1800 ft. lbs. clutch for it. That ended the clutch problems. I had the time to tune it once a month so it never gave any other real problems. It never stranded me. To this day I consider it one of the best and most reliable cars I ever owned. Best regards, Tom > From: yellowtr at adelphia.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 19:50:20 -0500 > Subject: Re: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. > > I must admit my first TR3 a 59 came into being because I was tired of always > fixing my 57 MGA. Mostly the hydraulics. They had that Lockheed dual cyl. > setup like the TR2. > > Also must have replaced the water pump at least 3 times and I could never > figure out why the batteries (2) were behind the driver and passenger! > > I had a test drive in a 59 TR3 on a used car lot and I couldn't believe the > difference in power and the way it accelerated out of 2nd gear. > > I was sold before I got back to the dealer. > > I sold the MGA to my brother, who drove it into the ground, and the bought the > 3 which started a love affair with Triumphs that continues to this day. > > Bob > > 1958 TR3A, 1962 TR4, 1972 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.:more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_explore_ 012009 From eoot at citlink.net Mon Feb 2 09:19:05 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 11:19:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steering box disassembly Message-ID: <004101c98551$f8d4f180$650a0a0a@MyComputski> All I have successfully disassembled my steering box with one exception. I cannot seem to get the upper bearing race out. I could sure use a hint or suggestion. I can catch underneath with a screw driver, but prying has not dislodged it. Somewhat surprisingly, the rocker shaft peg did not appear to be worn. The metal was a bit shiny at the wear point, but definitely no flat sides. Any other inspection tips on the components are appreciated. Thanks Ed From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Feb 2 09:33:27 2009 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 11:33:27 EST Subject: [TR] OD Relay 1973 TR6 Message-ID: Guys, According to the one Bill Piggott book I have, Triumph began using the "J" Type OD with commission numbers CFxxxxxxx in 1973 but I agree with Randall that who knows what the factory may have done with the early '73 cars perhaps even carrying over OD relays for the "J" types. This car definitely has a "J" type OD so I'm going to treat it as a non-OD relay car and see how the wiring, routing, etc. plays out. As far as my '76 "Starter" relay is concerned, Dan Masters book calls it a Bulb Test relay and it's operation is as Randall says actuated by the "start" function but it's not at all connected with energizing the starter solenoid or starting the car. chip In a message dated 2/1/2009 11:04:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Sure looks like "bulb test" to me ... **************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1217883258x1201191827/aol?redir=http://www.dell.com/co ntent/products/features.aspx/laptops_great_deals?c=us%26cs=19%26l=en%26s=d hs%26~ck=anavml) From triumph66 at gmail.com Mon Feb 2 09:47:09 2009 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 11:47:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] emission standards? In-Reply-To: <7EE34DE116AC4DE19E773E181A6ECC1A@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <000e01c980fe$7e8cb950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0ce801c9817c$e5bcc010$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <1A09C6051F164028B58C95A0C975A14D@joepentiumnew> <0d5401c98195$e270c000$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <9E8B934ABA104ED39F8CEEBEB7F9918A@joepentiumnew> <0dca01c981b7$386e22b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <13A064CBCCAC48E68D35A936EB6FC58E@Bevan> <7EE34DE116AC4DE19E773E181A6ECC1A@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: Perhaps the AACA could look to Morgan for how they are marketing Moggies as green vehicles - see www.morgan-motor.co.uk/green.html TL On Thu, Jan 29, 2009 at 12:09 PM, fred thomas wrote: > JonMac, we have the "Antique Automobile Club of America", biggest problem > is we have 50 states all with varying Antique Laws and then we have the big > boys to contend with "The Federal Govt/Congress", I live in Virginia with > some very tough inspections laws on autos, some years back (15) a collector > organized many small clubs into signing a petition to our state legislators > that our old cars are used very little and then mostly in civic community > shows and parades and wanted anything over 25 years old to be exempt from > taxazation and inspection, this petition was then sent to a state legislator > whom just happened to be a collector also, the only bill ever to be approved > in state history 99 to 0, so "YES" we have organizations and clubs that try > to keep up with any legislature in any state that may effect our hobby. "FT" > ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" < > standardtriumph at btinternet.com> > To: "Randall" ; "'list Triumph'" < > triumphs at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 4:14 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] emission standards? > > > Randall wrote: >> >>> My point was simply that if we don't pay attention, and squawk loudly >>> when >>> necessary, we will be easy targets for any politician trying to score >>> brownie points with the "green" crowd. >>> >> >> I find it worrying that in a country with such a strong historic vehicle >> interest base, there isn't some form of central 'power base' - or is there >> one I've not heard of? >> In the UK, we have The Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs to >> which the vast majority of clubs representing the many different makes and >> models all belong. Collectively, the FBHVC represents some thirty thousand >> old car enthusiasts in the UK and it's also an integral part of a similar >> and much larger European organisation that brings together similar FBHVC >> functions in all the other countries.. This enables the various >> organisations throughout the EU (European Union) to be vigilant about >> pending legislation in our own backyards, while at the same time, making a >> very powerful lobby to campaign against the 'green' ideas that come out of >> the European Parliament. >> The bottom line is that it's a very powerful voice that national >> governments and the controlling Parliament listens to and usually >> accommodates when new legislation is in the review process. >> Surely something of that sort exists in the US? >> >> Jonmac _______________________________________________ >> >> -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Mon Feb 2 13:07:55 2009 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 15:07:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: It's like saying Chevy is better than Ford because... It's nothing more than a personal opinion. An MGBGT V8 has a lot more grunt than a lot of TRs. They're all great cars, just some appeal some more than others. Mark 73 MGBGT 76 TR7 FHC 80 Spitfire Subject: Re: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. Someone on the FOT list gave a reason for buying a TR and not an MG was that the TR had "Grunt". "Grunt" is the reason I talked my dad into trading the family '56 Buick for a '57 TR3 and not an MGA 50 years ago next month. From areich at telus.net Mon Feb 2 19:56:34 2009 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 18:56:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan blade position .. ridges forward or grooves forward Message-ID: <4987B262.2020305@telus.net> Greetings! I am just putting together my TR3A engine after rebuilding and balancing and have a question about the installation of the TR4/TR4A fan. The fan has four rectangular blades with two grooves/ridges on each blade. Should the fan have the "ridges" to the front of the car or should the "grooves" be forward? A second question about installation .. I had the fan balanced without any of the installation tabs, balance pieces or lock plate. I was thinking about just mounting it with lock washers so I don't put it out of balance .. any thoughts? Allan Reich, Vancouver 1960 TR3A - TS65714L (+O) From nogera at worldnet.att.net Mon Feb 2 21:37:04 2009 From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira ) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 22:37:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR-4 Rear oil seal modification Message-ID: I've had two professional engine builders tell me that the secret to getting the scroll type rear seal to actually seal is to machine the aluminum seal plates so as to reduce the clearance between the aluminum scroll and the crank to .006 to .008 from the standard .010 - .012. This approach appeals to me in that it does not require any modification to the crank. ( I've been that route and have the oil stained driveway to prove it). Anyone tried this modification? Bob Nogueira From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Feb 3 10:46:48 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 09:46:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-4 Rear oil seal modification In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <023e01c98627$63c85650$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I've had two professional engine builders tell me that the secret to > getting > the scroll type rear seal to actually seal is to machine the aluminum seal > plates so as to reduce the clearance between the aluminum scroll and the > crank to .006 to .008 from the standard .010 - .012. All of those numbers seem huge to me. I've got an old note from Hardy Prentice saying the setting mandrel shown in the workshop manual is marked .004" oversize (should be 2.818" instead of the given 2.822"). ISTR Greg Solow and others agreed. But I thought that gave a radial clearance of about .003" between the crank & seal (with the crank centered in it's bearings). And he didn't mention having to modify the seal to achieve that. Hardy also gave a method to "make do" without the mandrel, by wrapping the crank journals and scroll with sewing thread to take up the clearances. Randall From trlist01 at canleyworks.com Tue Feb 3 11:01:54 2009 From: trlist01 at canleyworks.com (Mark Gendron) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 10:01:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] FS: 1954 TR2 project (Seattle) Message-ID: <000f01c98629$84497ec0$0400a8c0@toadstool2> TS 2571 L0 is looking for a new home. She is a 1954 "long-door" TR2, and I have owned her since the early 1980's. I hoped to complete this project myself one day, but my new family needs my attention and the extra storage space. I began work on this car when I first acquired it. The chassis has been sandblasted and sprayed in black Rustoleum, and is complete and rolling with a Girling rear axle. The engine was disassembled and rebuilt with new rings and bearings, using the original pistons and liners. The engine runs, but the car has not been a driver since then so there has been no break-in period. The engine has a TR3 block, with the original early-type "low-port" cylinder head and manifolds. The gearbox was rebuilt with new bearings and syncros, and a good used 1st gear shaft. An A-type overdrive was added as part of the rebuild. The overdrive was also rebuilt with new bearings and thrust washers. It appears to function correctly, but again, it has not been tested on a working vehicle. The body is in two pieces, with the front and rear sections having been separated from the badly-deteriorated door sills. Significant metalwork will be needed to complete this project. All panels are included, including all new rear closing panels, new trunk floor and sides, new rear apron, new door sills, and patch panels for the front fenders. An extra front apron is also included. I had the body dipped in 1986 to remove the old paint and fillers. The tub was sprayed with a PPG epoxy primer, but has not been painted. Original-style TR2 seat pans are provided, although the seat bottom springs are missing. Many new parts are provided with this project--indeed, most if not all significant parts to complete this project are included. Among the highlights: - Complete tan interior, including all panels, original-style wool carpet set, and seat covers with leather facings as original. - Robbins top, tan (single window, as original for TR2.) - Robbins tonneau cover, tan. - New boot cover, tan, in Robbins material. - Original-type side curtains (fixed windows), frames sandblasted and powdercoated BRG, recovered in Robbins tan material to match top and tonneau. These are probably the loveliest side curtains you will ever see for an early Triumph! - NOS Stanpart front bumper bar. - Good used steel hardtop (not original to this car, but it sure would look nice!) - Original SU carbs with throttle shafts rebushed and replaced by the late Bob Schaller. - Reproduction original-type luggage rack (attaches to trunk hinge pins.) - Brake master cylinder bored and re-sleeved in brass by White Post Restorations. I will also include all of my TR2 ephemera. Some highlights: - 1954 Road & Track (July, I believe) with the original TR2 road test. - Original TR2 shop manual (early version without the TR2 supplement.) - Original TR2 factory parts book. The early "long-door" TR2 is a rare and much sought-after British sports car. I am looking for offers around $5k on this project. Thank you -Mark Gendron From smacsjunk at hotmail.com Tue Feb 3 12:41:10 2009 From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 13:41:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip In-Reply-To: <20090115045822.POQC16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <593294.26709.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <20090115045822.POQC16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Had a great drive along Route 66 from Williams to Topek in Arizona last fall and would definitely recommend that section. I beleive it is considered to be the longest and best preserved piece of the original route. We unintentionally stumbled across it on our way out from Vegas to the Grand Canyon and ended up spending a couple of days following it back - was one of the most fun parts of the trip (unfortunately in a rent-a-beast not the Spit). Take in the Route 66 museum in Kingman and be sure to stop for a burger and shake at Mr D'z Diner across the street. Trying to get group organized to meet Jonmac (and whatever band of gypsies is accompanying) at the Saskatchewan border, hope some of you make it into the north country. cheersScott___________________________________________________________________ > > another possibility would be route 66. > > One of the things on my "bucket list"! Better do it soon, though, as there> isn't a lot left of the original route, and less all the time.> > But before that, I hope to be able to tag along with Jonmac this summer/fall> (just partway).> > Randall> _______________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ Twice the funShare photos while you chat with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/messenger.aspx From eoot at citlink.net Tue Feb 3 12:59:39 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 14:59:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Steering box disassembly Message-ID: <004d01c98639$f3194ff0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> All I have successfully disassembled my steering box with one exception. I cannot seem to get the upper bearing race out. I could sure use a hint or suggestion. I can catch underneath with a screw driver, but prying has not dislodged it. Somewhat surprisingly, the rocker shaft peg did not appear to be worn. The metal was a bit shiny at the wear point, but definitely no flat sides. Any other inspection tips on the components are appreciated. Thanks Ed From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Feb 3 13:30:30 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 13:30:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan blade position .. ridges forward or grooves forward In-Reply-To: <4987B262.2020305@telus.net> References: <4987B262.2020305@telus.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0902031230o67d47752nf83a80a032f41408@mail.gmail.com> Ridges forward and I would certainly use the lock plates. I don't much trust ordinary spring-type lock washers on something important and moving/vibrating. To my mind a mechanical fixative such as a lock tab or safety wire is much more secure. I wouldn't think the lock plates would have significant affect on balance. Geo On 2/2/09, Allan Reich wrote: > Greetings! I am just putting together my TR3A engine after rebuilding > and balancing and have a question about the installation of the TR4/TR4A > fan... From kentshrack at yahoo.com Tue Feb 3 13:39:10 2009 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 12:39:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Route 66 Message-ID: <843918.33066.qm@web57805.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Let me know if you will be traveling through the GREAT STATE of Kansas on route 66. Kansas was the first state to pave the complete route 66 in their state, ALL 12.8 miles of it. The "NEW" highway misses Kansas completely. Kent Shrack Lawrence, KS From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Feb 3 14:21:34 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 13:21:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip In-Reply-To: References: <593294.26709.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><20090115045822.POQC16090.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <002601c98645$64aa0820$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Had a great drive along Route 66 from Williams to Topek in Arizona last > fall If you happen to be doing Route 66 farther west, check out the Grand Canyon Caverns east of Seligman AZ. I found the cave itself only moderately interesting but the associated business is a genuine old fashioned tourist trap, replete with cheap motel rooms, fake gold mining, greasy food, and souvenirs from all over the world (mostly the far east ). They even put up some reproductions of Burma Shave signs along 66 ... my wife thought I had totally flipped out when I jammed on the brakes and went back to read them! If you dislike Big traffic fines Slow down Till you Can read these signs Burma-Shave Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Feb 3 14:38:40 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 21:38:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip In-Reply-To: <2100482429.1200821233697060701.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2050888275.1201321233697120455.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "scotts junk" wrote: > From: "scotts junk" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Tuesday, February 3, 2009 1:41:10 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] cross country caravan trip > > Had a great drive along Route 66 from Williams to Topek in Arizona > last fall > and would definitely recommend that section. I beleive it is > considered to be > the longest and best preserved piece of the original route. We > unintentionally > stumbled across it on our way out from Vegas to the Grand Canyon and > ended up > spending a couple of days following it back - was one of the most fun > parts of > the trip (unfortunately in a rent-a-beast not the Spit). Take in the > Route 66 > museum in Kingman and be sure to stop for a burger and shake at Mr D'z > Diner > across the street. Trying to get group organized to meet Jonmac (and > whatever > band of gypsies is accompanying) at the Saskatchewan border, hope some > of you > make it into the north country. Unfortunately, we had to change our plans to shadow Jonmac all the way from the Twin Cities to SLO when he moved up his arrival date in the Twin Cities 2 weeks to August 29th. I can't take another two weeks of vacation. It does not look as though we will go to Canada. Current plan is to fete Jonmac when he is here in August and for Sue and I to set out two weeks later, make some quick visits to Mount Rushmore and Yellowstone and meet up somewhere on the west coast, maybe Portland, maybe San Francisco, whatever works with his west-coast schedule when it gets settled. On the way home we may stay in Williams and take in a day a the Grand Canyon, then check out some of Route 66. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From nogera at worldnet.att.net Tue Feb 3 14:49:44 2009 From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira ) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:49:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR-4 Rear oil seal modification In-Reply-To: <023e01c98627$63c85650$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <72BE882646AD40E4A838477E43F76E0B@CARROOM> My crank mics out at 2.812. A set of NOS scroll seals mics at 2.822. Greg told me to have my mandrel, turned to 2.812. I haven't received the modified seal yet so I'm not sure what it will be but my guess is probably 2.816 or 2.817. That would then result in a radial clearance of your .0025 to .003 which half the stock clearance. Bob > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:47 AM > > All of those numbers seem huge to me. I've got an old note > from Hardy Prentice saying the setting mandrel shown in the > workshop manual is marked .004" oversize (should be 2.818" > instead of the given 2.822"). ISTR Greg Solow and others > agreed. But I thought that gave a radial clearance of about > .003" between the crank & seal (with the crank centered in > it's bearings). And he didn't mention having to modify the > seal to achieve that. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Feb 3 15:26:52 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 14:26:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-4 Rear oil seal modification In-Reply-To: <72BE882646AD40E4A838477E43F76E0B@CARROOM> References: <023e01c98627$63c85650$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <72BE882646AD40E4A838477E43F76E0B@CARROOM> Message-ID: <004801c9864e$8438dd20$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Bob Nogueira wrote: > My crank mics out at 2.812. > Greg told me to have my mandrel, turned to 2.812. There must be some mistake in those numbers, Bob. Has be some clearance between the crank and the seal, at least as much as the main bearing clearance, otherwise the seal is going to start supporting the crank (which would be a Bad Thing). 2.818" would give .003" radial clearance, which sounds right to me. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Feb 3 15:36:18 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:36:18 EST Subject: [TR] TR-4 Rear oil seal modification Message-ID: If the crankshaft gets up to 300 degrees F (about my oil temp as I recall), the seal is going to grow twice as fast as the crankshaft. That should leave an additional .0024 approximately on the diameter. Mike Moore **************Stay up to date on the latest news - from sports scores to stocks and so much more. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000022) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Feb 3 16:00:49 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 15:00:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-4 Rear oil seal modification In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001601c98653$41f2ab80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > If the crankshaft gets up to 300 degrees F (about my oil temp as I > recall), the seal is going > to grow twice as fast as the crankshaft. But with the seal bolted solidly to the water cooled block, it should stay cooler than the crank. So I don't think the clearance will increase that much. Also, I believe 300F is pretty high for oil temp in the pan. The oil gets significantly hotter in the bearings and on cylinder walls, and it doesn't take much more than that to make it break down. If you're getting 300F in the pan, you might want to think about a cooler. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Feb 3 16:59:45 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 18:59:45 EST Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip Message-ID: In a message dated 2/3/2009 1:41:24 PM Central Standard Time, smacsjunk at hotmail.com writes: > Had a great drive along Route 66 from Williams to Topek in Arizona last > fall > and would definitely recommend that section. I beleive it is considered to > be > the longest and best preserved piece of the original route. We > unintentionally > stumbled across it on our way out from Vegas to the Grand Canyon and ended > up > spending a couple of days following it back - was one of the most fun parts > of > the trip (unfortunately in a rent-a-beast not the Spit). Take in the Route > 66 > museum in Kingman and be sure to stop for a burger and shake at Mr D'z Diner > across the street. Trying to get group organized to meet Jonmac (and > whatever > band of gypsies is accompanying) at the Saskatchewan border, hope some of > you > make it into the north country. > cheersScott > > The stretch leading west from Kingman is not to be missed. It is quite apparent that it was a WPA project and built by hand. A lovely stretch of road. Dave From goh62agan at verizon.net Tue Feb 3 19:37:44 2009 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2009 21:37:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <9068db1f7ee21b12caaa8cfb84947d98@verizon.net> List, I'm now over two years into my TR4 reclamation. The vinyl dash pads have been replaced. However I can't find the finisher for the R/H dash pad handle (Moss part no. 633-340 is NA). Anyone know where I can find one of these? Or is there an easy way to fabricate one? I'm also looking for the sun visor mounts, same problem. Any ideas? Thanks. Gary O From dkspence at telus.net Wed Feb 4 00:22:34 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 00:22:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] : young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: But Mark, you have to try a REAL TR... On 3-Feb-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com > Date: February 2, 2009 1:07:55 PM MST (CA) > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. > > > It's like saying Chevy is better than Ford because... It's nothing > more > than a personal opinion. An MGBGT V8 has a lot more grunt than a > lot of > TRs. They're all great cars, just some appeal some more than others. > > Mark > 73 MGBGT > 76 TR7 FHC > 80 Spitfire From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Feb 4 05:59:52 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 07:59:52 EST Subject: [TR] : young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. Message-ID: In a message dated 2/4/2009 1:23:56 AM Central Standard Time, dkspence at telus.net writes: > But Mark, you have to try a REAL TR... > > > On 3-Feb-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > >From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com > >Date: February 2, 2009 1:07:55 PM MST (CA) > >To: triumphs at autox.team.net > >Subject: Re: [TR] young man drives TR like we did.. or may want to.. > > > > > >It's like saying Chevy is better than Ford because... It's nothing > >more > >than a personal opinion. An MGBGT V8 has a lot more grunt than a > >lot of > >TRs. They're all great cars, just some appeal some more than others. > > > >Mark > >73 MGBGT > >76 TR7 FHC > >80 Spitfire > But, because they had stars, all the Star-Belly Sneetches Would brag, bWebre the best kind of Sneetch on the beaches.b With their snoots in the air, they would sniff and theybd snort bWebll have nothing to do with the Plain-Belly sort!b And, whenever they met some, when they were out walking, Theybd hike right on past them without even talking. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Feb 4 09:45:48 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 09:45:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0902040845i2be19795ob0f0ec4d2c6ef069@mail.gmail.com> On 2/3/09, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: >> > The stretch leading west from Kingman is not to be missed. It is quite > apparent that it was a WPA project and built by hand. A lovely stretch of > road. A photo of same: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Route66.JPG Geo From kinneyjr at msn.com Wed Feb 4 11:03:09 2009 From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 13:03:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: Looking for a TR4 In-Reply-To: <58170.97873.qm@web37606.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <58170.97873.qm@web37606.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I received this e-mail cold and am just forwarding it to the list. NFI.> --- On Tue, 2/3/09, don wrote:> > > From: don > > Subject: TR4> > To: > > Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 11:45 PM> > Hello,> > Please pardon the intrusion. I saw your name and car> > listed on the TR Registry. I realize that many of the> > owners listed on the Registry have sold their TR4s, as the> > list does not seem to get updated often.> > I'm trying to find a nice TR4 or 4A. If you know of> > one like that which is for sale, please do email me. > > I'm located in California, but could travel for the> > right car. I'm not a dealer, but am a long-time British> > car enthusiast. I'd like to find a car that is either> > preserved or redone to original specs; at least that's> > my goal. A stalled restoration might work, but I'm not> > looking for a major project, as I have a couple of those> > already.> > Thanks!> > Don Scott > > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message.> > Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database:> > 270.10.16/1926 - Release Date: 01/30/2009 5:31 PM> > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Feb 4 15:12:05 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 17:12:05 EST Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip Message-ID: This gives you an indication of how the road hugs the hill side but it doesn't show the many undulations as it negotiates the pleated canyon walls. But I guess you have to take the wide spots where you can find them. And to think this was the major East-West route until fairly recently. Worth the trip Dave In a message dated 2/4/2009 10:46:00 AM Central Standard Time, ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes: > >The stretch leading west from Kingman is not to be missed. It is quite > >apparent that it was a WPA project and built by hand. A lovely stretch of > >road. > > A photo of same: > > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Route66.JPG From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Feb 4 15:20:16 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 14:20:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] great drives Message-ID: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> bringing up the route 66 drive made me think about all the possible drives in the united states. Probably too numerous to mention. But recommendations from sports car drivers should be considered to notch recommendations! Some way it'd be nice to have these compiled in an online file with a british car organization. Then as members plan trips to conventions or for vacations they would have a place to go to in order to choose awesome roads to include in the trip. Or a whole convention could be built around great roads as well as great resorts. just a thought. gary n. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Feb 4 16:02:31 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 18:02:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) TR4 part In-Reply-To: <9068db1f7ee21b12caaa8cfb84947d98@verizon.net> References: <9068db1f7ee21b12caaa8cfb84947d98@verizon.net> Message-ID: <200902041802.32101.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 03 February 2009 21:37:44 Gary O'Hagan wrote: > List, > I'm now over two years into my TR4 reclamation. The vinyl dash pads > have been replaced. However I can't find the finisher for the R/H dash > pad handle (Moss part no. 633-340 is NA). > Anyone know where I can find one of these? Or is there an easy way to > fabricate one? I'm also looking for the sun visor mounts, same > problem. Any ideas? Thanks. > Gary O Gary, The finisher that came with my TR4 was rusted beyond repair. So I turned to Ebay and about a month later, one came available. Since then (about 4 years ago) I have seen them come up on ebay once in awhile, sometimes by them selves or attached to a used dash pad. So you can wait on ebay, try to locate your original, or you can place a classified on VTR in parts wanted. You might also try to contact one of the many Triumph breakers out there such as Triumphs Only (http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/main/index.html) Good luck, Bob From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Wed Feb 4 19:33:05 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 19:33:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0902041833k4ffbc23cu9767ae0b780503b8@mail.gmail.com> Here's a book I have used as reference when planning several trips: http://www.amazon.com/Road-Trip-USA-Cross-Country-Adventures/dp/1566913969/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233800374&sr=1-5 Gives a nearly mile-by-mile account of the great federal highways that tied a country together before there were interstates. I love interstates -- love the way they suck up all the big traffic leaving the old blacktops nearly deserted for long lonely drives. Geo On 2/4/09, Gary Nafziger wrote: > bringing up the route 66 drive made me think about all the possible drives > in > the united states. Probably too numerous to mention. But recommendations > from sports car drivers should be considered to notch recommendations!.. From pethier at comcast.net Wed Feb 4 19:48:42 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 02:48:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1991735981.1824221233802122548.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> North Shore Lake Superior from Duluth to Thunder Bay. Don't forget the amazing short drive to Palisade Head. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Feb 4 20:36:00 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:36:00 -0600 Subject: [TR] great drives References: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <7bb181af0902041833k4ffbc23cu9767ae0b780503b8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000601c98742$de9fb690$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> ah, but - you HAVE to have this one!!!! http://www.amazon.com/TOUR-BOOK-ANTIQUE-CAR-BUFFS/dp/0962832472/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233804871&sr=1-1 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "TR List" Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 8:33 PM Subject: Re: [TR] great drives > Here's a book I have used as reference when planning several trips: > > http://www.amazon.com/Road-Trip-USA-Cross-Country-Adventures/dp/1566913969/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1233800374&sr=1-5 > > Gives a nearly mile-by-mile account of the great federal highways that > tied a country together before there were interstates. > > I love interstates -- love the way they suck up all the big traffic > leaving the old blacktops nearly deserted for long lonely drives. > > Geo > > On 2/4/09, Gary Nafziger wrote: >> bringing up the route 66 drive made me think about all the possible >> drives >> in >> the united states. Probably too numerous to mention. But >> recommendations >> from sports car drivers should be considered to notch recommendations!.. From spitlist at cox.net Wed Feb 4 21:26:43 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 21:26:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV Message-ID: <87991289465A48488182B16D8E0F5A40@joepentiumnew> There was a Red TR4 on tonight's episode of "Life On Mars" Joe [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Feb 4 22:16:30 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 00:16:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: <87991289465A48488182B16D8E0F5A40@joepentiumnew> References: <87991289465A48488182B16D8E0F5A40@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <4894B9BB0C4349A49443648127AFDBE3@CarlPC> Didn't see a '4' but did see a red TR3 outside of what looked like a biker bar. Also there was a rubber bumper MGB later in the show. Some propmaster is having a great time finding cars for this '1973' set series. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'listTriumph'" Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 11:26 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV > There was a Red TR4 on tonight's episode of "Life On Mars" > > > > Joe > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > image001.gif] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Feb 4 22:43:44 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 00:43:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: <87991289465A48488182B16D8E0F5A40@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <498A3640.18030.CF3AE06@localhost> On 4 Feb 2009 at 21:26, Joe Curry wrote: > There was a Red TR4 on tonight's episode of "Life On Mars" How does one ship a TR4 to Mars? You sure don't drive it there... -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 5 00:22:23 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 00:22:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: <4894B9BB0C4349A49443648127AFDBE3@CarlPC> References: <87991289465A48488182B16D8E0F5A40@joepentiumnew> <4894B9BB0C4349A49443648127AFDBE3@CarlPC> Message-ID: Just another typo. They need to move the 4 key further away from the 3 key! :) Joe -----Original Message----- From: Carl TR [mailto:cfmtr3a at verizon.net] Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 10:17 PM To: Joe Curry; 'listTriumph' Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph on TV Didn't see a '4' but did see a red TR3 outside of what looked like a biker bar. Also there was a rubber bumper MGB later in the show. Some propmaster is having a great time finding cars for this '1973' set series. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'listTriumph'" Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 11:26 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV > There was a Red TR4 on tonight's episode of "Life On Mars" > > > > Joe > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > image001.gif] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Feb 5 05:52:38 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 07:52:38 EST Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV Message-ID: In a message dated 2/5/2009 12:33:34 AM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > How does one ship a TR4 to Mars? You sure don't drive it there... > I'm sure Edgar Rice Burrows could figure it out. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Feb 5 05:53:39 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 07:53:39 EST Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV Message-ID: In a message dated 2/5/2009 1:22:50 AM Central Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > Just another typo. They need to move the 4 key further away from the 3 > key! > :) > Those two keys are no closer together than the "D" and "F" keys. ;-) Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Feb 5 06:05:25 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 08:05:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: <4894B9BB0C4349A49443648127AFDBE3@CarlPC> References: <87991289465A48488182B16D8E0F5A40@joepentiumnew> <4894B9BB0C4349A49443648127AFDBE3@CarlPC> Message-ID: <41F10709309C43B2B948FA17886BDEA9@BOBSNEWPC> I've been waiting for some LBCs to appear on this show......though maybe they weren't the car of choice in NYC. Come to think of it, I had my big Healey in NYC many times in '68 & '69 and never saw that many other LBCs. Great show.........kind of fun to watch when the cops had more "latitude" in dealing with criminals...... I mean alleged criminals :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 12:17 AM To: Joe Curry; 'listTriumph' Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph on TV Didn't see a '4' but did see a red TR3 outside of what looked like a biker bar. Also there was a rubber bumper MGB later in the show. Some propmaster is having a great time finding cars for this '1973' set series. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'listTriumph'" Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 11:26 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV > There was a Red TR4 on tonight's episode of "Life On Mars" > > > > Joe > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > image001.gif] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Feb 5 07:44:42 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 14:44:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a drive for sports car enthusiasts in the Santa Cruz, Ca. area. This drive will challenge you mountain driving skills, give you excellent views on a clear day, some good food, maybe some good music, and lovely ocean views. Take Hwy. 9 off of Hwy 1. Drive Hwy. 9 to the top of the mountain and turn left on Hwy. 35. Drive Hwy. 35 to Hwy. 84. Stop at the intersection of Hwys. 35 & 84 for lunch at Alice's Restaurant. After lunch decide between taking Hwy 84 downhill to Hwy. 1 or taking Hwy. 35 to Hwy. 92 and then dropping down to Hwy. 1 in Half Moon Bay. If you take Hwy. 84, and the trip is on a weekend, stop at the San Greborio General Store about a mile or two before Hwy. 1 for a break and listen to some blue grass music. Taking either route turn left on Hwy. 1 for the trip back to Santa Cruz. Best regards, Tom > Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 14:20:16 -0800 > From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] great drives > > bringing up the route 66 drive made me think about all the possible drives in > the united states. Probably too numerous to mention. But recommendations > from sports car drivers should be considered to notch recommendations! Some > way it'd be nice to have these compiled in an online file with a british car > organization. Then as members plan trips to conventions or for vacations they > would have a place to go to in order to choose awesome roads to include in the > trip. Or a whole convention could be built around great roads as well as > great resorts. just a thought. > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From pethier at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 08:20:05 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:20:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: <4894B9BB0C4349A49443648127AFDBE3@CarlPC> Message-ID: <987645798.1952291233847205300.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Carl TR" wrote: > Also there was a rubber bumper MGB later in the show. Some > propmaster > is having a great time finding cars for this '1973' set series. 1973 would make the rubber-bumper MGB an anachronism. Should have been a chrome-bumper B. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Thu Feb 5 08:32:36 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:32:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Or Steven Wright Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Feb 5, 2009, at 7:52 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 2/5/2009 12:33:34 AM Central Standard Time, > jimmuller at rcn.com writes: >> How does one ship a TR4 to Mars? You sure don't drive it there... >> > I'm sure Edgar Rice Burrows could figure it out. > > Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 5 08:49:16 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 07:49:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00de01c987a9$4d47e570$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm sure Edgar Rice Burrows could figure it out. In the Heinlein story I've been listening to on my commute; they just landed on the moon in a Volvo ... Randall From brian at rickernet.net Thu Feb 5 08:51:15 2009 From: brian at rickernet.net (Brian Ricker) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 09:51:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: <987645798.1952291233847205300.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <987645798.1952291233847205300.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <59bd273a3112dd21658a733d6ead2a7c@localhost> On Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:20:05 +0000 (UTC), pethier at comcast.net wrote: > ----- "Carl TR" wrote: >> Also there was a rubber bumper MGB later in the show. Some >> propmaster >> is having a great time finding cars for this '1973' set series. > > 1973 would make the rubber-bumper MGB an anachronism. Should have been a > chrome-bumper B. > My first car was what I was told at the time was a 1973.5 MGB. It had rubber bumpers and dual carbs (which the later 1974s did not have). Now I may have all of this wrong as it was over 20 years ago. Life On Mars is set in the late summer of 1973 so I suppose it is possible that an early 1974 car could be on the streets. From coefront at shaw.ca Thu Feb 5 09:40:53 2009 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 09:40:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip Message-ID: Dave Massey's [Dave1massey at cs.com] TR cross country caravan trip would rival the drive between Lake Louise, Banff and Jasper here in Alberta as a superb summer drive {but I wouldn't recommend it as a winter drive - a pun!}. The latter route through some of the most incredible tall and wild mountain scenery. Along the way of which are more than adequate and great motel / hotel housing and great camping spots or Youth Hostels [YHA] at Lake Louise, Banff, Jasper. Plus you'll find the same accommodation off the road between the mountains in between these towns. A tour well worth the effort for the adventurous; and not so adventurous. Just chose a preference towards your night sleeping spot is all. Motel / Hotel as opposed to fine Alberta controlled camping or YHA spots with all the amenities. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca This gives you an indication of how the road hugs the hill side but it doesn't show the many undulations as it negotiates the pleated canyon walls. But I guess you have to take the wide spots where you can find them. And to think this was the major East-West route until fairly recently. Worth the trip In a message dated 2/4/2009 10:46:00 AM Central Standard Time, ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes: The stretch leading west from Kingman is not to be missed. It is quite apparent that it was a WPA project and built by hand. A lovely stretch of road. A photo of same: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Route66.JPG From davgil at aol.com Thu Feb 5 09:53:41 2009 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 11:53:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Great rides Message-ID: <8CB55C96EDCBBFF-D44-8C3@webmail-da13.sysops.aol.com> Those in the Southeast USA either are or should be familiar with "Tail of the Dragon at Deal's Gap", in Western North Carolina.?Really popular with the two wheeled crowd, but an absolutely great ride in an LBC.? Google "Tail of the Dragon" and you can get plenty of information and pictures.? This ride should be on any list of great sports car drives in the US. David Gill 1976 TR6 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Feb 5 10:05:11 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 17:05:11 -0000 Subject: [TR] great drives References: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48A9EF2B0FB74B3EBBEFDB0DDB7CE718@Bevan> Reading these various posts is whetting my appetite for the TRIUMPH TRANS-AMERICA CHARITY DRIVE that'll be getting underway at the end of June this year. Being *just a Brit* who doesn't know the blacktop roads of the North American continent, I'm looking for lots of people driving ANY make of British car to join me for as long as they are able in covering the outline route that appears on www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk As this was created using Microsoft Streets and Trips to take me between key centres, I haven't a clue about special routes I might be missing without deviating too much from the overall route outline. The Tail of the Dragon north of Atlanta, Georgia is a definite feature but I'm looking to all Brit iron enthusiasts to join with me wherever possible. By all means pass this post on to enthusiasts you might know in your locality so that hopefully we can fix up something in which everyone will have a load of fun. Cheers, Jonmac From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 5 10:10:19 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:10:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <87390C70DD2F4046A71610A46D75A7FA@joepentiumnew> Exactly! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 5:54 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph on TV In a message dated 2/5/2009 1:22:50 AM Central Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: > Just another typo. They need to move the 4 key further away from the 3 > key! > :) > Those two keys are no closer together than the "D" and "F" keys. ;-) Dave This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Feb 5 10:42:22 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 12:42:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Great rides In-Reply-To: <8CB55C96EDCBBFF-D44-8C3@webmail-da13.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB55C96EDCBBFF-D44-8C3@webmail-da13.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Second that. I went on the tail in my sons Mini Cooper S a few years ago and it was inpressive. However it is a whole different perspective from the passenger seat. I think the seat still has pucker creases in it from me. His Mini isnt stock and he is a better autoxer than I am. Marty To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:53:41 -0500 From: davgil at aol.com Subject: [TR] Great rides Those in the Southeast USA either are or should be familiar with "Tail of the Dragon at Deal's Gap", in Western North Carolina.?Really popular with the two wheeled crowd, but an absolutely great ride in an LBC.? Google "Tail of the Dragon" and you can get plenty of information and pictures.? This ride should be on any list of great sports car drives in the US. David Gill 1976 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009 From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Feb 5 10:55:47 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 12:55:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: <59bd273a3112dd21658a733d6ead2a7c@localhost> References: <987645798.1952291233847205300.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <59bd273a3112dd21658a733d6ead2a7c@localhost> Message-ID: <8CB55D21BD168C0-A6C-30B@webmail-de03.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Brian Ricker My first car was what I was told at the time was a 1973.5 MGB. It had rubber bumpers and dual carbs (which the later 1974s did not have). Now I may have all of this wrong as it was over 20 years ago. Life On Mars is set in the late summer of 1973 so I suppose it is possible that an early 1974 car could be on the streets. ==AM== I also could be wrong, but I think it was the 1974 model year where there was a "split": early cars had rubber "block" overriders, such as in this photo: while the later 1974s and subsequent cars had the full rubber facias, such as --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Feb 5 11:05:40 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:05:40 EST Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV Message-ID: The comedian? In a message dated 2/5/2009 9:32:50 AM Central Standard Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Or Steven Wright > > Ashford Little > '70 TR6 > > > > > > > On Feb 5, 2009, at 7:52 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > >In a message dated 2/5/2009 12:33:34 AM Central Standard Time, > >jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >>How does one ship a TR4 to Mars? You sure don't drive it there... > >> > >I'm sure Edgar Rice Burrows could figure it out. From pethier at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 11:11:35 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 18:11:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <2017229731.2038491233857018724.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "John Macartney" wrote: > Reading these various posts is whetting my appetite for the TRIUMPH > TRANS-AMERICA CHARITY DRIVE > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > As this was created using Microsoft Streets and Trips to take me > between key centres, I haven't a > clue about special routes I might be missing without deviating too > much from the overall route > outline. I notice you are following the freeway down the west coast. I think the locals will back me up when I suggest you should be on the Pacific Coast Highway whenever possible. Sue and I will be unable to stay with you all the way from the Twin Cities in Minnesota, but we should be able to catch up with you somewhere on the west coast. We are looking forward to the announcements of the times and places for your your west-coast get-togethers so that we can plan on being at one of them and joining the caravan there. Meanwhile, the Twin Cities get-together is to be on the weekend of August 29-30, 2009. Details to follow. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Feb 5 11:11:35 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:11:35 EST Subject: [TR] cross country caravan trip Message-ID: In a message dated 2/5/2009 10:40:56 AM Central Standard Time, coefront at shaw.ca writes: > Dave Massey's [Dave1massey at cs.com] TR cross country caravan trip would > rival > the drive between Lake Louise, Banff and Jasper here in Alberta as a superb > summer drive Another fine drive. We came back that way from the VTR in Portland in 2000. The only down side was the temps were in the 90's (upper 30's C) and the TR8 was not air conditioned at that time. Spent the night in 3 Gap Pass in the mega-tourist trap hotel. Very pretty. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Feb 5 11:14:13 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:14:13 EST Subject: [TR] Great rides Message-ID: In a message dated 2/5/2009 10:54:07 AM Central Standard Time, davgil at aol.com writes: > > Those in the Southeast USA either are or should be familiar with "Tail of > the Dragon at Deal's Gap", in Western North Carolina.?Really popular with the > two wheeled crowd, but an absolutely great ride in an LBC.? Google "Tail of > the Dragon" and you can get plenty of information and pictures.? This ride > should be on any list of great sports car drives in the US. > Another great drive in a sports car. Until you get stuck behind a soccer mom in a minivan. But better that than a 42 ft semi trailer. Dave From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 11:24:34 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:24:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Great rides In-Reply-To: References: <8CB55C96EDCBBFF-D44-8C3@webmail-da13.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Our most enjoyable trip ... anywhere ... was one we took on our way to St. Joseph, MO to celebrate my 50th birthday (been a few years ago). From Jackson, CA we took Hiway 88 to Hiway 50 (loneliest Hiway in the world) to Ely, NV (overnight) then on to Eureka, UT, from there we had to get on a freeway for a short time ... terrifying ... then H 89 to Jackson, WY, from there we followed 26, which more or less mimics the Oregon Trail early settlers used. Had to get back on a short stretch of freeway at Ogallala, then South on 83 to 36 East to St. Joesph. BTW if you ever go through St Joseph, find the Patee House Museum, then drive the Parkway system ... awesome. For our return trip we took 169 South to 60 West (bypassing OK city) picked up 64 West, the 54 SW to Tucumcari to Santa Fe (again following more or less the settlers trail) 44/550 North where we had to take I70 West (not too bad some pretty country) then I 15 South till we could get 21 NW back on to 50 W ... finally back to 88 and Jackson, CA. We had no schedule, took over a month. Stopped at little towns along the way for picnic lunches in the town square (most all had one). Best thing about this sort of trip is the roads were all very good, but no freeways, therefore almost NO trucks, minimum Cops and wonderful places to see. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh anabil007@ comcast.net Wallace, CA From pboldtrix at juno.com Thu Feb 5 11:38:31 2009 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 18:38:31 GMT Subject: [TR] Great rides Message-ID: <20090205.133831.22177.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com> I second the remarks on the Tail of the Dragon and have driven it several times....the only problem is watching out for the crazy guys on rice rockets...you can never be sure one won't come barreling around a blind curve at speed, particularly in the Chicane portion. Phil Bacon, 72 TR -- marty sukey wrote: Second that. I went on the tail in my sons Mini Cooper S a few years ago and it was inpressive. However it is a whole different perspective from the passenger seat. I think the seat still has pucker creases in it from me. His Mini isnt stock and he is a better autoxer than I am. ____________________________________________________________ Did your doctor not provide proper care? Click here to contact a medical malpractice lawyer. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/PnY6rbv5QtNiquvEHc981hNZAt30LZ7gy qut3qyvOg5Zufj0ZzUet/ From eoot at citlink.net Thu Feb 5 11:53:02 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:53:02 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives References: <660763.52782.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <48A9EF2B0FB74B3EBBEFDB0DDB7CE718@Bevan> Message-ID: <007c01c987c2$f970bc50$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Jonmac You should absolutely consider the alternative route using Skyline Drive and The Blue Ridge Parkway. This will take your from northern Virginia (Front Royal) to Cherokee NC, not far from the Georgia border. It is truly spectacular. Fantastic scenery and not trucks. The speed limit is 45 so you need to plan accordingly. http://www.blueridgeparkway.org/maps.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 12:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] great drives > Reading these various posts is whetting my appetite for the TRIUMPH > TRANS-AMERICA CHARITY DRIVE that'll be getting underway at the end of June > this year. > Being *just a Brit* who doesn't know the blacktop roads of the North > American continent, I'm looking for lots of people driving ANY make of > British car to join me for as long as they are able in covering the > outline route that appears on www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > As this was created using Microsoft Streets and Trips to take me between > key centres, I haven't a clue about special routes I might be missing > without deviating too much from the overall route outline. The Tail of the > Dragon north of Atlanta, Georgia is a definite feature but I'm looking to > all Brit iron enthusiasts to join with me wherever possible. By all means > pass this post on to enthusiasts you might know in your locality so that > hopefully we can fix up something in which everyone will have a load of > fun. > > Cheers, Jonmac _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 5 12:28:38 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:28:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Great rides In-Reply-To: <20090205.133831.22177.0@webmail01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <307344.48178.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stIUBx5jWY8 tail of the dragon, from the passenger seat. that's my son driving our 72 modified tr6 "it is a whole different perspective from the passenger seat." From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 5 12:32:01 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:32:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Great rides In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <47998.56715.qm@web82803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> get up early and drive up into the mountains, watch the sun rise over the valley, then do the dragon, and have breakfast at the bike shop at the end. very very few cars that time of day. > > Those in the Southeast USA either are or should be familiar with "Tail of > the Dragon at Deal's Gap", in Western North Carolina.?Really popular with the > two wheeled crowd, but an absolutely great ride in an LBC.? Google "Tail of > the Dragon" and you can get plenty of information and pictures.? This ride > should be on any list of great sports car drives in the US. > Another great drive in a sports car. Until you get stuck behind a soccer mom in a minivan. But better that than a 42 ft semi trailer. Dave From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Feb 5 12:40:12 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:40:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <247591.845.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Flubber???? (whoops - I'm showing my age . . .) >> How does one ship a TR4 to Mars? You sure don't drive it there... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 5 12:44:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:44:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2017229731.2038491233857018724.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <003e01c987ca$35f6cc80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I notice you are following the freeway down the west coast. I think the > locals will back me up when I suggest you should be on the Pacific Coast > Highway whenever possible. Emphatically! But don't forget, it adds substantially to the time required. Randall From tr3a at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 13:03:30 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 15:03:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <003e01c987ca$35f6cc80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <2017229731.2038491233857018724.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003e01c987ca$35f6cc80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <498B4612.6060008@comcast.net> Been quite a while since I've been there, but IMO, the coast road (not sure it's still PCH) from San Luis Obispo down to Ventura is a yawn...but at least it's not the 5!! Randall wrote: I notice you are following the freeway down the west coast. I think the locals will back me up when I suggest you should be on the Pacific Coast Highway whenever possible. Emphatically! But don't forget, it adds substantially to the time required. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From wensley_tr at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 13:10:58 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:10:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <007c01c987c2$f970bc50$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: <57D25DC93515411B98F1F99BD248E59A@Desktop> Yep...great drive Blue Ridge Parkway with all the CAMPERS Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Oot Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 1:53 PM To: John Macartney; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] great drives Jonmac You should absolutely consider the alternative route using Skyline Drive and The Blue Ridge Parkway. This will take your from northern Virginia (Front Royal) to Cherokee NC, not far from the Georgia border. It is truly spectacular. Fantastic scenery and not trucks. The speed limit is 45 so you need to plan accordingly. http://www.blueridgeparkway.org/maps.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 12:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] great drives > Reading these various posts is whetting my appetite for the TRIUMPH > TRANS-AMERICA CHARITY DRIVE that'll be getting underway at the end of June > this year. > Being *just a Brit* who doesn't know the blacktop roads of the North > American continent, I'm looking for lots of people driving ANY make of > British car to join me for as long as they are able in covering the > outline route that appears on www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > As this was created using Microsoft Streets and Trips to take me between > key centres, I haven't a clue about special routes I might be missing > without deviating too much from the overall route outline. The Tail of the > Dragon north of Atlanta, Georgia is a definite feature but I'm looking to > all Brit iron enthusiasts to join with me wherever possible. By all means > pass this post on to enthusiasts you might know in your locality so that > hopefully we can fix up something in which everyone will have a load of > fun. > > Cheers, Jonmac _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 5 14:18:30 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 13:18:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <498B4612.6060008@comcast.net> References: <2017229731.2038491233857018724.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <003e01c987ca$35f6cc80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <498B4612.6060008@comcast.net> Message-ID: <005701c987d7$4b755970$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Been quite a while since I've been there, but IMO, the coast road (not > sure it's still PCH) from San Luis Obispo down to Ventura is a yawn...but > at least it's not the 5!! No argument from me; but unless I'm missing something, Jonmac is coming down from the north. PCH through Big Sur, etc. is rather more scenic, IMO. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:CalifCentralCoast.jpg http://www.travel-notes.org/photos/pch_ca.jpg And if time permits, there is the scenic drive at Pebble Beach, Hearst Castle, and so on along the way. Google shows the name as "Cabrillo Highway", but AFAIK the locals still know it as PCH. Don't recall for certain, but I think I saw some PCH signs as well (we were up there just a few weeks ago to see the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas). Anyway, it's always been marked as "California 1" so that's the safest name to look for. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Feb 5 14:27:48 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:27:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV References: <987645798.1952291233847205300.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <59bd273a3112dd21658a733d6ead2a7c@localhost> Message-ID: I owned a brand new 1974 MGBGT that had rubber bumpers and twin SUs. Mike >> >> 1973 would make the rubber-bumper MGB an anachronism. Should have been a >> chrome-bumper B. >> > > My first car was what I was told at the time was a 1973.5 MGB. It had > rubber bumpers and dual carbs (which the later 1974s did not have). Now I > may have all of this wrong as it was over 20 years ago. Life On Mars is > set > in the late summer of 1973 so I suppose it is possible that an early 1974 > car could be on the streets. > _______________________________________________ From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Feb 5 14:29:29 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:29:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV References: <987645798.1952291233847205300.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><59bd273a3112dd21658a733d6ead2a7c@localhost> <8CB55D21BD168C0-A6C-30B@webmail-de03.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6AF9D64C0EF44AD9879A65790AA57A6A@mikeslaptop> That was my understanding, too. Mine was the early 74 with the twin SUs. Mike > ==AM== > I also could be wrong, but I think it was the 1974 model year where there > was a "split": > early cars had rubber "block" overriders, such as in this photo: > > > > while the later 1974s and subsequent cars had the full rubber facias, such > as > > > --Andy Mace From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Feb 5 16:18:07 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 15:18:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] great drives Message-ID: <726701.2699.qm@web59406.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> wow. thanks to everyone responding to the great drives subject. I got loads of good information and also good suggestions for books to buy. Looks like I'll have plenty of information to use for retirement sojourns. thanks! gary n. From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Feb 5 18:30:35 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 20:30:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <003e01c987ca$35f6cc80$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> On 5 Feb 2009 at 11:44, Randall wrote: > > I notice you are following the freeway down the west coast. I think the > > locals will back me up when I suggest you should be on the Pacific Coast > > Highway whenever possible. > > Emphatically! But don't forget, it adds substantially to the time required. My recollection from having been on it once and driven part of it is that California state route 49 between Mariposa and Coulterville is the crookedest road in the country. Even after they straightened it, so we were told. Not for the faint of heart. Of course, we did it in a borrowed Ford LTD wagon loaded with music gear and four people. Speaking of adding time, don't forget that when you go from the west coast to the east it takes three hours longer than you might calculate. I guess it must be the prevailing winds or something because it takes so much less time going the other way. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Thu Feb 5 18:47:13 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 18:47:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> Message-ID: Speaking of twisty CA roads, the stretch of US 95 between Needles and Blythe is pretty exciting. It also has few trees to block the view of what is on the other side of the curve. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 6:31 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] great drives On 5 Feb 2009 at 11:44, Randall wrote: > > I notice you are following the freeway down the west coast. I think the > > locals will back me up when I suggest you should be on the Pacific Coast > > Highway whenever possible. > > Emphatically! But don't forget, it adds substantially to the time required. My recollection from having been on it once and driven part of it is that California state route 49 between Mariposa and Coulterville is the crookedest road in the country. Even after they straightened it, so we were told. Not for the faint of heart. Of course, we did it in a borrowed Ford LTD wagon loaded with music gear and four people. Speaking of adding time, don't forget that when you go from the west coast to the east it takes three hours longer than you might calculate. I guess it must be the prevailing winds or something because it takes so much less time going the other way. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From mathews at uga.edu Thu Feb 5 18:54:37 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 20:54:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> Message-ID: <498B985D.3000901@uga.edu> How about the Mormon Immigrant Trail east of Sacramento..... Doug Joe Curry wrote: > Speaking of twisty CA roads, the stretch of US 95 between Needles and Blythe > is pretty exciting. It also has few trees to block the view of what is on > the other side of the curve. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller > Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 6:31 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] great drives > > On 5 Feb 2009 at 11:44, Randall wrote: > > >>> I notice you are following the freeway down the west coast. I think the >>> locals will back me up when I suggest you should be on the Pacific Coast >>> Highway whenever possible. >>> >> Emphatically! But don't forget, it adds substantially to the time >> > required. > > My recollection from having been on it once and driven part of it is > that California state route 49 between Mariposa and Coulterville is > the crookedest road in the country. Even after they straightened it, > so we were told. Not for the faint of heart. Of course, we did it > in a borrowed Ford LTD wagon loaded with music gear and four people. > > Speaking of adding time, don't forget that when you go from the west > coast to the east it takes three hours longer than you might > calculate. I guess it must be the prevailing winds or something > because it takes so much less time going the other way. From tr3a at comcast.net Thu Feb 5 18:56:55 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael) Date: Thu, 05 Feb 2009 20:56:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> Message-ID: <498B98E7.8050508@comcast.net> Mariposa? You simply CANNOT be in that neighborhood without visiting Yosemite National Park. You just can't! My first visit there, due to the vagaries of my business trip to San Diego and then Fresno, I couldn't get to Yosemite when planned. So, I got up at 3AM or so (in Fresno) and set off for Yosemite. I just happened to come through the tunnel (between the park entrance and Yosemite Valley) right at sunrise...just in time to watch the sun rising above El Capitan and Half Dome. That was in 1984 or so and I am still awestruck by the unbelievable natural beauty of the place!! You HAVE to go there. Jim Muller wrote: My recollection from having been on it once and driven part of it is that California state route 49 between Mariposa and Coulterville is the crookedest road in the country. Even after they straightened it, so we were told. Not for the faint of heart. Of course, we did it in a borrowed Ford LTD wagon loaded with music gear and four people. Speaking of adding time, don't forget that when you go from the west coast to the east it takes three hours longer than you might calculate. I guess it must be the prevailing winds or something because it takes so much less time going the other way. From team.net at daveola.com Fri Feb 6 03:32:59 2009 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 02:32:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front license plates Message-ID: So - after almost a decade of driving around without front plates, I got a ticket from the SFPD (for $100, no less) because of this missing plate. I was under the impression that we were grandfathered from needing these plates because the car didn't originally come with any way to mount front plates, but I can't find anything to back that up. Anyways - what is the best way to mount a front plate on a TR3? I had a front plate on my TR3 in college, mounted down from the front bumper, but it used to get caught on driveways and the like and would keep getting bent. So what do people on the list do? Dave ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 ----- "An individual who breaks a law that his conscience tells him is ------ unjust, and who willingly accepts the penalty of imprisonment in order to arouse the conscience of the community over its injustice, is in reality expressing the highest respect for law." - MLK, Jr From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Feb 6 04:08:38 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 04:08:38 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090206040838.1e77d7c0@pop.west.cox.net> Can't help with the mounting, but I've been driving around without a front plate here in San Diego, on my Spitfire/GT6's, for over thirty years, and in all that time I've only been ticketed twice that I can remember - both were fix it tickets! After putting it back on and getting the ticket signed off, I would take the plate off again. Besides looking funky, it interferes with the cooling (blocks the grill opening substantially on my cars, and in hot weather it will overheat with that much blockage). I have never heard of an actual fine, unless one didn't actually put the plate back on in the time allowed, usually two weeks. Did the law change?? Normally its considered an equipment violation, like a tail light out - can you give me the VC violation that is on the ticket? Id like to look it up - can't believe that the city has different laws than the state... ********************************original message**************************** >So - after almost a decade of driving around without front plates, >I got a ticket from the SFPD (for $100, no less) because of this >missing plate. I was under the impression that we were grandfathered >from needing these plates because the car didn't originally come with >any way to mount front plates, but I can't find anything to back that up. > Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Fri Feb 6 05:40:05 2009 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 07:40:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Been there done that. I bought my Spitfire from a friend in eastern Kentucky in May, 2002 and drove back to Nova Scotia by was of the Blue Ridge Parkway and the Skyline. There was very little traffic, the smell of blossoms and manure were in the air; what a fantastic drive, and no campers. I'd love to do it again. Mark From: "Craig" Yep...great drive Blue Ridge Parkway with all the CAMPERS Craig From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Feb 6 05:42:26 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 07:42:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> Message-ID: <8CB566F7FE57CEE-1028-2214@WEBMAIL-MY01.sysops.aol.com> True but you get it back when you go back west.? Also, it seems that every spring I get deprived of one hour of sleep and I remain that way until fall.? I guess that's because Christmas is coming and Santa won't come if I'm awake. Dave Speaking of adding time, don't forget that when you go from the west coast to the east it takes three hours longer than you might calculate. I guess it must be the prevailing winds or something because it takes so much less time going the other way. ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Feb 6 05:48:23 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 07:48:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <498B98E7.8050508@comcast.net> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> <498B98E7.8050508@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CB567054EDA4CA-1028-224E@WEBMAIL-MY01.sysops.aol.com> Last I heard you can hardly get in for the crowds.? For some reason Yogi Berra comes to mind. Mariposa? You simply CANNOT be in that neighborhood without visiting Yosemite National Park. You just can't! What about the butterfly museum? Dave (Sorry if I'm being too obtuse) ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From pryner at verizon.net Fri Feb 6 05:49:04 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 07:49:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have mine mounted on the front bumper with zip ties. It looks a little funky but I can mount it even with the bottom of the bumper so it doesn't drag and I didn't have to drill holes in my new bumper. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Ljung Madison" To: Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 5:32 AM Subject: [TR] Front license plates > So - after almost a decade of driving around without front plates, > I got a ticket from the SFPD (for $100, no less) because of this > missing plate. I was under the impression that we were grandfathered > from needing these plates because the car didn't originally come with > any way to mount front plates, but I can't find anything to back that up. > > Anyways - what is the best way to mount a front plate on a TR3? > > I had a front plate on my TR3 in college, mounted down from the > front bumper, but it used to get caught on driveways and the like > and would keep getting bent. So what do people on the list do? > > Dave > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ > 415.341.5555 > ----- "An individual who breaks a law that his conscience tells him > is ------ > unjust, and who willingly accepts the penalty of imprisonment in > order to arouse the conscience of the community over its injustice, > is in reality expressing the highest respect for law." - MLK, Jr > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pryner at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 6 06:28:05 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 08:28:05 EST Subject: [TR] Front license plates Message-ID: In a message dated 2/6/2009 7:50:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, pryner at verizon.net writes: I had a front plate on my TR3 in college, and would keep getting bent. Ah yes, college. Getting bent. Or, was that just a New England expression? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000001) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 6 06:45:36 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 05:45:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <325512.5959.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> in Texas they want that, too, unless you have the car registered as an antique. then you only get (have to use) on plate. --- On Fri, 2/6/09, David Ljung Madison wrote: From: David Ljung Madison Subject: [TR] Front license plates To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Friday, February 6, 2009, 4:32 AM So - after almost a decade of driving around without front plates, I got a ticket from the SFPD (for $100, no less) because of this missing plate. I was under the impression that we were grandfathered from needing these plates because the car didn't originally come with any way to mount front plates, but I can't find anything to back that up. Anyways - what is the best way to mount a front plate on a TR3? I had a front plate on my TR3 in college, mounted down from the front bumper, but it used to get caught on driveways and the like and would keep getting bent. So what do people on the list do? Dave From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Feb 6 06:53:51 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 08:53:51 EST Subject: [TR] Front license plates Message-ID: I am the second owner of my 59 TR3A. When I got the car in 1963, the front plate was mounted with a pair of sheet metal brackets which were pretty clever. The horizontal centerline of the license plate was aligned with horizontal centerine of the bumper face plate. There were two separate brackets, but identical to each other. They were made of sheet metal, I would guess 16 ga. Each bracket was no more that 3/4 inch wide and was made of two parts. One part was contoured to fit the curve of the front of the bumper. At the bottom, it folded flat and parallele to the surface of the bumper. There was a hole on the bottom which connected to the license plate hole. There was a second piece, a far more simple piece which attached to a second hole at the bottom adjacent to the license plate hole. That strap came all the way up the back, then bolted to the front strap at the top. Meanwhile, the front piece strap. after coming up and over the front, after connecting to the rear strap, folds back over the top, all the way to the front, then down ehough to pick up the upper license plate holes. They were lightweight, stiff, and I was an idiot for throwing one away. I think I am using a single one now, but its in the center and I have a small aluminum angle which goe across the top and bottom. I keep thinking I need to see if I can fabricate another one. Mike Moore ************** Stay up to date on the latest news - from sports scores to stocks and so much more. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000022) From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Fri Feb 6 06:56:59 2009 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 08:56:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: <325512.5959.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <325512.5959.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7bfc62290902060556h5118b44eo86ad676b6fc4254e@mail.gmail.com> On 2/6/09, oliver wrote: > > in Texas they want that, too, unless you have the car registered as an > antique. then you only get (have to use) one plate. > > Just one more reason why I like living in PA; no front license plates, ever. - Phil Barnes - '71 TR 6 - Keeneyville, PA From opposumking at verizon.net Fri Feb 6 07:15:49 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 09:15:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front license plates References: Message-ID: <001401c98865$6a295d60$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Just because a cop gave you a ticket doesn't mean he's right. Check the law itself in your local library. You may well be right, particularly if you're running antique type tags. From spitlist at cox.net Fri Feb 6 09:20:25 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 09:20:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: <7bfc62290902060556h5118b44eo86ad676b6fc4254e@mail.gmail.com> References: <325512.5959.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <7bfc62290902060556h5118b44eo86ad676b6fc4254e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <9D3BC1A105F3497DB5428AEBC767E585@joepentiumnew> It's funny, but in Arizona most cars are not issued front plates. The exception is collector vehicles. I have not installed the front plate on either of my Spits and doubt anyone will ever notice. I doubt that it is even required. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Philip Barnes Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 6:57 AM To: sumton at sbcglobal.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Front license plates On 2/6/09, oliver wrote: > > in Texas they want that, too, unless you have the car registered as an > antique. then you only get (have to use) one plate. > > Just one more reason why I like living in PA; no front license plates, ever. - Phil Barnes - '71 TR 6 - Keeneyville, PA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Feb 6 09:46:07 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 09:46:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: <9D3BC1A105F3497DB5428AEBC767E585@joepentiumnew> References: <325512.5959.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <7bfc62290902060556h5118b44eo86ad676b6fc4254e@mail.gmail.com> <9D3BC1A105F3497DB5428AEBC767E585@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <7bb181af0902060846g6754807emcbd382c6bd53e46a@mail.gmail.com> I have from time to time used a front plate on the TR3 fashioning brackets from some stout sheet metal strapping (like you might use for a muffler hanger). As described in a prior response the horizontal centerline of the plate and bumper were the same. Didn't seem to foul on anything and probably didn't have a big effect on cooling either. When I lived in CA my understanding was that you didn't have to mount the front plate but if you didn't you still had to have it in the car and present it if requested. The idea was to prevent it being used on another vehicle. Arizona is lax in this regard (as Joe notes). Both my TRs have 'year-of-manufacture' plates, i.e. plates originally issued when they were built... but the MVD did not ask about the front plate which Arizona had back then. Likely (since this was before the MVD ee was born) they don't even know about it. Sometimes these issues are just revenue generators. Arizona has just passed a couple of laws with hefty fines if the plate frame covers the word 'Arizona' on the plate or if the plate is less that 12" from the ground. The latter is a problem for Big Healey drivers. Both laws are to address problems they are having with capturing plate images using photo radar. Geo From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Fri Feb 6 09:57:32 2009 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 08:57:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: <001401c98865$6a295d60$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> References: <001401c98865$6a295d60$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <10D65F98957D4865B3511106AA98D42A@rwa.local> Here in Berkeley, CA the front plate law is a great revenue center for the city. This is one of their favorite tickets. The meter maids go around regularly ticketing cars. Other cities in the Bay Area don't seem to care, but it looks like SF may see the income potential. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 6 10:19:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 09:19:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090206040838.1e77d7c0@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090206040838.1e77d7c0@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <029501c9887f$1a192750$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Did the law change?? I believe it did. Check out http://www.insidebayarea.com/ci_11577161?source=most_emailed In addition, I believe it has always been up to the discretion of the officer as to whether you get just a "fix-it" ticket, or a violation (carrying a larger fine) for driving an improper vehicle or whatever. With many cities looking to automatic cameras to supplement their income, they have jacked up the fines for anything that would tend to defeat the cameras. Section 5200 of the CA vehicle code gives the requirement for a front plate, but doesn't prescribe (or limit) penalties. And there is no exception mentioned for antique cars, etc. except if the DMV only issued one plate. When I recently registered my 57 TR3, they insisted I have (and use) both plates. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Feb 6 11:29:58 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:29:58 EST Subject: [TR] Front license plates Message-ID: In a message dated 2/6/2009 7:28:27 AM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > I had a front plate on my TR3 in college, and would keep getting bent. > Ah yes, college. Getting bent. Or, was that just a New England > expression? > I have a license plate attached to my front bumper. That bumper is currently stashed in the rafters of my garage but it has a plate on it. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 6 11:35:21 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 10:35:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> Message-ID: <02bf01c98889$ae72b560$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > My recollection from having been on it once and driven part of it is > that California state route 49 between Mariposa and Coulterville is > the crookedest road in the country. I dunno. There's that stretch over near Mt Rushmore where the road goes under itself something like 3 times in less than 5 miles. And of course there's Lombard St and Vermont St in San Francisco, http://tinyurl.com/bj6yjs but I don't suppose they count as roads. Randall From team.net at daveola.com Fri Feb 6 12:59:03 2009 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 11:59:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090206040838.1e77d7c0@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090206040838.1e77d7c0@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: > Normally its considered an equipment violation, like a tail light out - can > you give me the VC violation that is on the ticket? Id like to look it up > - can't believe that the city has different laws than the state... It's not the city. As pointed out already, California Vehicle Code 5200: http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/vc/tocd3c1a9.htm http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d03/vc5200.htm So, according to the VC, since I've been issued two plates, I evidently need to display two plates. Bah. This brings up the question of "grandfathering" that I brought up before. I don't believe we need, for example, seatbelts, but I couldn't find the actual VC that allows for this (CVC 27315k only discusses the *manufacture* of newer vehicles). And, near as I can tell, the ticket is *not* a fix-it ticket, it's a regular SFPD notice of parking violation with a fine of $100. Maybe this is monetarily influenced. I have never needed a front plate, but it looks like I need to start looking into figuring out how to attach one unless someone can come up with a good legal argument otherwise. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From pethier at comcast.net Fri Feb 6 13:59:43 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 20:59:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <2034690791.2540821233948145999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <418419970.2588941233953983028.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> triumphs at autox.team.net Re: [TR] great drives ----- "Randall" wrote: > I dunno. There's that stretch over near Mt Rushmore where the road > goes > under itself something like 3 times in less than 5 miles. I'll be going past Mount Rushmore on the way to VTR. Sue has never seen it (and I have not seen it since 1965), so we will make a stop there. Where is this road? Maybe I will check it out. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 6 14:50:48 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 13:50:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <418419970.2588941233953983028.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <2034690791.2540821233948145999.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <418419970.2588941233953983028.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <030e01c988a4$f927a9b0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Where is this road? Maybe I will check it out. I'm not absolutely certain (it was snowing and I was in a hurry to get down out of it), but looking at Google, I think it was state road 16A (which Google also has marked as US 16), going south from the east side of the Mt Rushmore park down towards Custer state park. BTW if you continue west on US 16 into Wyoming, it also goes through Ten Sleep canyon, which isn't particularly twisty but is quite impressive, http://www.takemytrip.com/images/448_1280_DSC04996.jpg and Thermopolis, which supposedly has the largest hot springs in the world. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39PX3DRRxrQ You can even bathe in the (cooled) waters from the hot springs for free at the state-run bathhouse, if you're so inclined. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 6 15:15:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 14:15:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: References: <3.0.4.16.20090206040838.1e77d7c0@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <031c01c988a8$7b0e5570$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > This brings up the question of "grandfathering" that I brought > up before. I don't believe we need, for example, seatbelts, > but I couldn't find the actual VC that allows for this > (CVC 27315k only discusses the *manufacture* of newer vehicles). It's not what you would call clear (big surprise there); but CVC 27315f gives an exemption for not fitting belts to older cars. http://dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d12/vc27315.htm OTOH, CVC 27315d and 27315e are the parts that require you and your passengers to WEAR a belt; and it doesn't mention the exemption. I've been told that this means you don't have to add them (nor wear them if the car does not have them); BUT if the car has them, you have to wear them. However the CHP who wrote the report when my TR3A got totaled clearly believed that the law did not require that I wear them, whether the car had been fitted or not. He asked if I was wearing a belt, then glanced at the car and said "No, I guess not." Bottom line, "grandfathering" is a nice concept and frequently gets a nod in new laws. But there is no guarantee, they don't have to do it and you can't automatically assume they did. Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Feb 6 15:22:02 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 17:22:02 EST Subject: [TR] Front license plates Message-ID: Hi, Ohio has that stupid front plate law too. When I bought my Durango 4 years ago the dealer asked: Would you like us to ruin your front bumper by drilling holes in the plastic or leave the front plate off. Really the guy had a drill in his hand ready to go. I said screw it, if Dodge does not have a suitable front license plate bracket/holder, leave it be. I have yet to be caught, but I am waiting for it to happen. As far as I'm concerned anything goes on my Triumphs. I put them on if it is convenient and proper mounting brackets are available which is not the case for the rubber bumper Wedge Triumphs. I asked a my buddie, Ron Urcek a former Triumph service manager, about it and his answer was _%#@&**&&%$_ (mailto:#@&**&&) ! Not able to elaborate since this is a family form. I have those long reflective plates on two of my Wedges that say TRIUMPH. I have noticed a few dirty looks from cops but so far I have skated arrest. Round Tail Spits & GT6's have no way to mount them that I know of so I just throw the plates in the boot on mine. My TR3, TR4's and the TR250 & TR6 have holes in the front bumpers, some with little brackets so OK why not. MySpitfire 1500 has a really cool chrome front license plate holder so alright. The TR8 has a weak bracket screwed into the front rubber bumper. Yuk, most of the time it is crooked. Cheers, Darrell **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) From spitlist at cox.net Fri Feb 6 15:31:17 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 15:31:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: But Darrell, wouldn't that lose you concours points! :) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 3:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Front license plates Hi, Ohio has that stupid front plate law too. When I bought my Durango 4 years ago the dealer asked: Would you like us to ruin your front bumper by drilling holes in the plastic or leave the front plate off. Really the guy had a drill in his hand ready to go. I said screw it, if Dodge does not have a suitable front license plate bracket/holder, leave it be. I have yet to be caught, but I am waiting for it to happen. As far as I'm concerned anything goes on my Triumphs. I put them on if it is convenient and proper mounting brackets are available which is not the case for the rubber bumper Wedge Triumphs. I asked a my buddie, Ron Urcek a former Triumph service manager, about it and his answer was _%#@&**&&%$_ (mailto:#@&**&&) ! Not able to elaborate since this is a family form. I have those long reflective plates on two of my Wedges that say TRIUMPH. I have noticed a few dirty looks from cops but so far I have skated arrest. Round Tail Spits & GT6's have no way to mount them that I know of so I just throw the plates in the boot on mine. My TR3, TR4's and the TR250 & TR6 have holes in the front bumpers, some with little brackets so OK why not. MySpitfire 1500 has a really cool chrome front license plate holder so alright. The TR8 has a weak bracket screwed into the front rubber bumper. Yuk, most of the time it is crooked. Cheers, Darrell **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi0 0000003) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Feb 6 15:43:20 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 17:43:20 EST Subject: [TR] Front license plates Message-ID: In a message dated 2/6/2009 5:31:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: But Darrell, wouldn't that lose you concours points! :) No way Joe. We don't judge license plates/holders/brackets. I believe that may have been on the judging form years ago but I had it taken off. OK if you have something really cruddy you run the risk that a field judge may ding you just for bad forum. The one exception would be the Spitfire 1500 and late TR6 license plate holders. It would probably be bad to show in Concours w/o those. Is it possible the Triumph Stag had those too? I don't have one of those. Cheers, Darrell **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) From tr3a at comcast.net Fri Feb 6 15:47:25 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 17:47:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <8CB567054EDA4CA-1028-224E@WEBMAIL-MY01.sysops.aol.com> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> <498B98E7.8050508@comcast.net> <8CB567054EDA4CA-1028-224E@WEBMAIL-MY01.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <498CBDFD.4040509@comcast.net> Been a while since I've been there, but I've visited several times and have never seen any real crowding. Of course, the first time was in April and the last was in October. Not sure if I've ever been there in the middle of vacation season. I will say that the place was bone dry on that October trip. All the snow melt was gone and even Yosemite Falls was virtually dried up. The other ones, like Bridal Veil, were completely dry. The April trip was a very different story! What butterfly museum? Oh, and when you get to the fork in the road, take it. Y. Berra dave1massey at cs.com wrote: Last I heard you can hardly get in for the crowds.? For some reason Yogi Berra comes to mind. Mariposa? You simply CANNOT be in that neighborhood without visiting Yosemite National Park. You just can't! What about the butterfly museum? Dave (Sorry if I'm being too obtuse) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Feb 6 16:19:16 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 18:19:16 EST Subject: [TR] Front license plates Message-ID: There is also equipment out there which will scan every license plate it sees to look for stolen/wanted cars. Companies who sell these systems (such as a large defense contractor for whom I used to work) have a vested interest in these systems working well. They want front license plates for sure. They may see that as lost revenue as they get paid per hit. Mike Moore ************** Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 6 16:22:58 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 15:22:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <032d01c988b1$d9e14d60$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Is it possible the Triumph Stag had those too? Mine have purpose-made front license holders, fairly heavy chromed steel things that fit onto the front bumper blade and hold the plate roughly centered on the blade. But I have seen other US-spec Stags with a different style of holder, so it is entirely possible that it was a dealer-installed item. Meaning that cars delivered to states without front bumpers might not have them and/or different dealers may have used a different style holder. I have not checked whether there is chrome inside the holes where the holder is bolted to the bumper. Randall From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Feb 6 16:58:52 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2009 18:58:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <498CBDFD.4040509@comcast.net> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> <498B98E7.8050508@comcast.net> <8CB567054EDA4CA-1028-224E@WEBMAIL-MY01.sysops.aol.com> <498CBDFD.4040509@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CB56CDFEE1951F-D60-141F@WEBMAIL-DF04.sysops.aol.com> What butterfly museum? That was my obtuse reference, mariposa is Spanish for butterfly. -----Original Message----- From: Michael Ferguson To: dave1massey at cs.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 4:47 pm Subject: Re: [TR] great drives Been a while since I've been there, but I've visited several times and have never seen any real crowding. Of course, the first time was in April and the last was in October. Not sure if I've ever been there in the middle of vacation season. I will say that the place was bone dry on that October trip. All the snow melt was gone and even Yosemite Falls was virtually dried up. The other ones, like Bridal Veil, were completely dry. The April trip was a very different story! What butterfly museum? Oh, and when you get to the fork in the road, take it. Y. Berra dave1massey at cs.com wrote: Last I heard you can hardly get in for the crowds.? For some reason Yogi Berra comes to mind. Mariposa? You simply CANNOT be in that neighborhood without visiting Yosemite National Park. You just can't! What about the butterfly museum? Dave (Sorry if I'm being too obtuse) ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Feb 6 17:26:12 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 19:26:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200902061926.12621.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Here is my mounting. The bumper is an original with holes for the plate. I use SS hardware. http://www.triumphowners.com/1331 Wouldn't want to be caught in NY without a valid plate, ins, current inspection or registration. Fines are at least 100 + court costs and your insurance goes up. If you get a fix it fast type ticket, you have to have the repair done in a licensed garage or have your repair validated by the local police. You just can't fix it your self and send in the ticket. I am told you have to show receipts etc. Don't know what I would do if I received a ticket for a light out or something similar if it was just a bad bullet connection or bulb, since I doubt the local mechanics in my neck of the woods would know how to diagnose the problem without a "computer" link! Throw myself on the mercy of the court? This year the state is adding extra "surcharges" to every ticket issued to help close the budget deficit. Bob From triumphs at consolidated.net Fri Feb 6 18:49:48 2009 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 19:49:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <8CB56CDFEE1951F-D60-141F@WEBMAIL-DF04.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Have done the Tail of the Dragon a couple of times it ranks as one of the best. I would also nominate US rt 12 from Lolo Pass Mt to Koosia, Id. 77 miles of almost consistent switch backs and it's all down hill. It really is another spectacular drive. Ken Gano From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Fri Feb 6 19:36:34 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 21:36:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0F929F11-7AF0-4FC8-835F-6FCCD54A1383@mindspring.com> There is a road in North Georgia with a section called Blood Mountain that is very nice. Faster sweepers versus The Dragon and no where near the cops or mopeds per cubic mile. Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Feb 6, 2009, at 8:49 PM, Ken Gano palm top wrote: > Have done the Tail of the Dragon a couple of times it ranks as one > of the > best. I would also nominate US rt 12 from Lolo Pass Mt to Koosia, > Id. 77 > miles of almost consistent switch backs and it's all down hill. It > really > is another spectacular drive. > > Ken Gano > _______________________________________________ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Feb 7 08:19:42 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 15:19:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: References: <8CB56CDFEE1951F-D60-141F@WEBMAIL-DF04.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: As we all contribute our recommendations for great drives I am surprised that no one has mentioned the road to Hana, Maui, Hawaii. Is it possible that there aren't any TRs in Maui. More switch backs than a sidewinder with the stomach cramps. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Feb 7 09:39:06 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 11:39:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <498CBDFD.4040509@comcast.net> References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost> <498B98E7.8050508@comcast.net> <8CB567054EDA4CA-1028-224E@WEBMAIL-MY01.sysops.aol.com> <498CBDFD.4040509@comcast.net> Message-ID: > Last I heard you can hardly get in for the crowds.? For some reason Yogi Berra> comes to mind. "See? That's why nobody goes there; it's too crowded." From jmitch at snet.net Sat Feb 7 09:41:42 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 11:41:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: References: <8CB56CDFEE1951F-D60-141F@WEBMAIL-DF04.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <498DB9C6.1060505@snet.net> I drove it once, I made myself carsick! John tom white wrote: > As we all contribute our recommendations for great drives I am surprised that > no one has mentioned the road to Hana, Maui, Hawaii. Is it possible that > there aren't any TRs in Maui. More switch backs than a sidewinder with the > stomach cramps. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. > http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From cak at dimebank.com Sat Feb 7 09:48:31 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 08:48:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Front license plates Message-ID: <200902071648.n17GmVxe009510@moose.dimebank.com> One thing I've done in a couple of vehicles is mount the front plate to the passenger-side sun visor with rubber bands. When parked, flip the visor down so the license is visible. Palo Alto has "zoned" parking, enforced by folks who walk around typing license numbers into a hand-held computer. They insist on a front plate being visible - if not, a fix-it is issued. From cak at dimebank.com Sat Feb 7 09:54:28 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 08:54:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] great drives Message-ID: <200902071654.n17GsSBd016108@moose.dimebank.com> Despite what folks may have heard, visit rates to Yosemite are sharply down over the past decade. Most of the Park is never crowded. The Valley is crowded about three weekends/year: Memorial Day, July 4, Labor Day. On those days, traffic on the Valley Loop is typically a real zoo. Any other day, not so much. After Labor Day, the Park is really quite quiet and pleasant. Be aware that just driving through will still cost you the entry fee - $40 last time I noticed (I buy an annual pass). The main difficulty in YNP is getting lodging; there aren't many rooms in the Lodge and they fill up early. Never fear - there are lots of hotel rooms in Oakhurst, about an hour south of the Park entrance, and they're cheaper, too! If you're just driving through, rather than planning to stay in the Park, that's what I'd recommend. Depending on where you going to/from - the east end of 120 (between Tioga Pass and 395) is probably the best driving, and the drive on 140 along the Merced is also quite lovely. The roads in the south end of the park are interesting, but there's too much traffic on them. Best, chris From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 7 10:22:10 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 09:22:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] Front license plates In-Reply-To: <200902071648.n17GmVxe009510@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <20090207172209.IDZC17503.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > One thing I've done in a couple of vehicles is mount the > front plate to the passenger-side sun visor with rubber > bands. When parked, flip the visor down so the license is visible. While that would probably be good enough, my understanding is that it does not meet the letter of the law. Has to be "affixed to the front", and inside the cabin is not the front. Also not allowed to have it covered by glass (or plastic), though there again I know lots of people that do and have never been hassled about it. Randall From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Feb 7 11:39:09 2009 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 11:39:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: Rant on: Two and half weeks after my 1974 TR6 accident Allstate, the woman's insurance company, called to let me know I am being held 40% at fault because I was making a lane change, with my turn signal and headlights on, at the time she broadsided me. She was ticketed for failure to yield right of way, I did not receive any citations. Allstate does not claim my lane change was illegal, just that the lane change "contributed" to the accident and that maybe I was speeding. The right lane was blocked off by barricades but there were no workers at that side of the road and there was not any reduced speed signs or construction signs posted. I was traveling at under 40 MPH, posted speed limit is 45. I've now been driving down that road now 4 or 5 days a week to watch the speed limit signs and just this Wen they started working on that side of the road and they now have Road Construction and 25 MPH signs up. I told their claim handler that while I understood her statement that the lane change "contributed" to the accident she could also claim the fact that I was on that road at all at that point in time also "contributed" to the accident but that I didn't agree that that made me at all at fault. I said I guess that maybe I needed to contact a lawyer and she then said goodbye and hung up on me. Someone in our local Triumph club was nice enough to give me the name of a lawyer who owns a classic car and has been through all this before. Initially he declined to take the case because saying he doesn't want to do any personal injury cases but after I explained this was a 74 TR6 and I was not going after any personal injury money he agreed to take the case. I already like him. I have an appointment with him Monday morning. I thought I was being an OK guy by not pushing Allstate to act quickly. I did call twice during the two and half week process and I even emailed them a copy of the accident report that I had paid $5 for because they told me they didn't have a copy yet. When their adjuster visited the house he noticed some damage to my rear bumper, me trying to be a stand up guy, told him that that had been there before the accident, which he made sure to document. Their initial estimate to fix is a little over $3,000 to fix the passenger door and replace the rear fender, fix the suspension and paint. I know I could go to Hagerty and get the car fixed now and let them hammer something out between them but now my stubbornness has kicked in and I'm not going to he held responsible at all. I don't want them to accept a deal just because it's easier and faster to settle. Rant off: If I can figure out my Triumph Owners user name, I'll post some pics. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From dbh at hamengr.com Sat Feb 7 12:06:47 2009 From: dbh at hamengr.com (David B Hammond) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 11:06:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag References: <734432.10336.qm@web37607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <48237235.7000705@frontiernet.net> Message-ID: <737D9D925A914D72AC570D9B8652AE19@HOMEOFFICE> Can anyone out there tell me if they make a mounting kit to put a Rover V8 (3.5) into the stag? What transmission did they mate with the engine? David Looking at a Stag From cak at dimebank.com Sat Feb 7 12:06:34 2009 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 11:06:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: <200902071906.n17J6YWD029556@moose.dimebank.com> > I know I could go to Hagerty and get the car fixed now and let them hammer > something out between them but now my stubbornness has kicked in and I'm not > going to he held responsible at all. Admirable, but don't get carried away. I had an expensive but not horribly serious crash in one of our non-Triumph classics about 15 years ago. There was no doubt that I was at fault (I crossed the double yellow at just the wrong moment). The other driver said she was fine at the scene, but later came back with mysterious neck injuries. My insurance company handled it all without me ever knowing about it. Very different situation ... but this is the kind of nonsense that you're paying the insurance company for. They're pros at getting these problems dealt with. From jat1127 at hotmail.com Sat Feb 7 12:48:42 2009 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 14:48:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Black Ebay TR 3 Message-ID: Listers, Does any one live near Venice Florida or know of the black TR 3 that is currently listed on Ebay.CHEERSJohn John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From dkspence at telus.net Sat Feb 7 13:32:52 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 13:32:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Great drives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <70413E81-1A25-44C5-A3FC-AC43E7BBD911@telus.net> If you ever make it north, the Going to the Sun highway in Glacier National Park is wonderful. Just don't try it on a weekend. Even further north in Alberta, Highway 93, the Banff Jasper Parkway is one of the most stunning roads in the world. Best in June or September to avoid the "Campers" in their motorhomes and buses. Head west into British Columbia and stray off the main highways (#1, The Trans Canada and #16/5 The Yellowhead) and you are in sports car heaven. Lots of hot springs to visit, some developed others not. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Feb 7 14:44:41 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 14:44:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Stag In-Reply-To: <737D9D925A914D72AC570D9B8652AE19@HOMEOFFICE> References: <734432.10336.qm@web37607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <48237235.7000705@frontiernet.net> <737D9D925A914D72AC570D9B8652AE19@HOMEOFFICE> Message-ID: <498E00C9.1070405@tscusa.org> David B Hammond wrote: > Can anyone out there tell me if they make a mounting kit to put a > Rover V8 (3.5) into the stag? What transmission did they mate with the > engine? > > David > Looking at a Stag > Hi David, It depends on what your definition of a "mounting kit" is. The typical manual transmission is the B/L 5 speed from a TR7/8/SD1, but that is not a straight bolt in. Yes, there are engine mounting brackets, transmission bracket, power steering bracket, modified shifter bracket, etc to purchase from the UK. The brackets are pricey. But you need to know this is not pull the old engine and bolt in a Rover. The short list is: -Lengthen the drive shaft 4"; -Shorten the transmission shifter housing and shifter rod; -custom make speedo cable end at transmission (larger pressed square end); -purchase proper transmission speedo gear or purchase a speedo ratio matching gearbox; -modify radiator ports for 1.5" hoses facing rearward; -recore radiator for 3 or 4 row high efficiency; -source proper short nose water pump with fan pulley; -custom measure and buy alternator belt; -custom measure and buy power steering belt -move the radiator forward 4"; -install TR8 style expansion tank; -custom make radiator hoses from several different radiator hose bends, or put crappy flex hoses on; -custom make heater hoses to heater and to heater control valve; -make custom power steering hoses; -relocate PS pump to left side of engine; -lower subframe cross member 1"; -lighten front road springs; -machine intake manifold to lower the carburetors to clear the hood or install EFI system from a TR8; -Manufacture custom exhaust manifolds to clear the steering link, or use block hugger tubular headers (4 into1), then shift the down pipe 2" rearward on each side, make up custom link pipes; -custom make wire harness to new alternator location and probably a Bosch/Motorola/AC Delco unit. -custom make clutch hydraulic line for UNC thread at Master Cylinder to Metric thread at the TR7/8/SD1 replaced slave cylinder; -remake new wiring harness from old starter position left side to new starter position on right side. -remake new wiring harness connection for reversing lights, transmission switches That is the short list ... Do you want to hook up the AC? -add short radiator condenser; -install electric 16" pusher fan and 15" flex engine fan; -add thermostat controller; -make up custom barrier hoses; I probably have the long list around somewhere. Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Feb 7 15:26:29 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:26:29 EST Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: I agree I don 't know why you aren't lettingHagerty deal with it. Mike Moore ************** Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) From DLylis at aol.com Sat Feb 7 15:42:45 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:42:45 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: I am sorry that Allstate is making this more painful. In Florida, Allstate is a dirty word. Google Allstate Homeowners Insurance Florida. You're in good hands with Allstate. Unfortunately, one of them is ___________________(fill in the blank). David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From steven at newellboys.net Sat Feb 7 18:33:43 2009 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 18:33:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <498E3677.2060901@newellboys.net> Marty wrote: >...I told their claim handler that while I understood her >statement that the lane change "contributed" to the accident she could also >claim the fact that I was on that road at all at that point in time >also "contributed" to the accident but that I didn't agree that that made me >at all at fault. I said I guess that maybe I needed to contact a lawyer and >she then said goodbye and hung up on me. > Marty, just a heads up... that claim handler's job is to get you to acknowledge that you were partly to blame. Be really careful, or better yet let your insurance company handle it. First, that's why you pay them premiums, and second their lawyer won't say he understands your lane change contributed to the accident. For example, I handled all the calls when my wife was broadsided by a little old lady pulling out of a side street -- same kind of accident as you. It totalled her Saab 900. The OPPOSING claims guys called that afternoon and tried a few tricks: "so, your wife wasn't very familiar with that street?" I said "actually that's the street she drives home every day." Later he tried "so you said your wife was driving pretty quickly?" I said "no, I never said that. In fact, I'm confident she was driving within the speed limit; the intersection at the bottom of that hill has one of the most famous red-light cameras on this side of Denver. Everyone knows there's a short yellow there, and traffic never moves quickly there." I also stressed that Pam was paying attention, and changed lanes from the curb lane to left lane to try to avoid the little old lady pulling out. The passenger side impact still spun the Saab over 180 degrees, but the lane change at least avoided a front corner hit. Then I reminded the claims adjuster that only the little old lady had been ticketed, and they could take up any other questions with USAA, my insurance company. Finally, I reminded him that the Saab was in a tow yard where it would cost his company $25 a day, and we'd need a rental car until they settled. At over $50/day in ongoing expenses, the check for the Saab came fairly quickly. Thank god, because we hated that new rental Jeep. How do people stand new cars? Steven Newell '62 TR4 '87 BMW 535is, '88 535is, '85 535i, '87 528e From tr3a at comcast.net Sat Feb 7 18:49:49 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 20:49:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <498E3677.2060901@newellboys.net> References: <498E3677.2060901@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <498E3A3D.9090001@comcast.net> One other point...these phone calls to/from insurance companies are probably recorded. Let your ins co handle it. It's what they DO. Steven Newell wrote: Marty wrote: ...I told their claim handler that while I understood her statement that the lane change "contributed" to the accident she could also claim the fact that I was on that road at all at that point in time also "contributed" to the accident but that I didn't agree that that made me at all at fault. I said I guess that maybe I needed to contact a lawyer and she then said goodbye and hung up on me. Marty, just a heads up... that claim handler's job is to get you to acknowledge that you were partly to blame. Be really careful, or better yet let your insurance company handle it. From jdinnis at gmail.com Sat Feb 7 19:28:43 2009 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 20:28:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <498E3A3D.9090001@comcast.net> References: <498E3677.2060901@newellboys.net> <498E3A3D.9090001@comcast.net> Message-ID: Unless you have a crappy insurance company that won't go to bat for you. I got hit in a parking lot in the Spitfire last summer, and there was a lot of question as to who was at fault. My insurance company did basically nothing for me because the damage to my car was only going to cost them about $300 (after I paid the $500 collision deductible). Farm Bureau is inexpensive, but their claims service is crappy. John On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 7:49 PM, Michael Ferguson wrote: > One other point...these phone calls to/from insurance companies are > probably recorded. Let your ins co handle it. It's what they DO. > Steven Newell wrote: > > Marty wrote: > > ...I told their claim handler that while I understood her > statement that the lane change "contributed" to the accident she > could also > claim the fact that I was on that road at all at that point in time > also "contributed" to the accident but that I didn't agree that > that made me > at all at fault. I said I guess that maybe I needed to contact a > lawyer and > she then said goodbye and hung up on me. > > Marty, just a heads up... that claim handler's job is to get you to > acknowledge that you were partly to blame. Be really careful, or > better yet let your insurance company handle it. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Feb 7 19:44:12 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 21:44:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <8CB57ADB132FC34-1768-354F@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB57ADB132FC34-1768-354F@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CB57AE42126E0C-1768-356B@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> Hi Marty, I thought I would add to the avalanche of advice to let your insurance handle it.? I was hit lightly while driving our 87 Celica 10 or so years ago but was on my own since I had removed collision insurance from the car due to its age and condition.? I was just driving down the street when an older lady just pulled out and creased the entire side of the car.? I fought with the ladies insurance company for three weeks, jumping through all kinds of hoops to try to get them to pay.? Finally I just called my insurance company for some basic advice regarding the best way to proceed since I wasnt familiar with the whole insurance game and my insurance agent was kind enough to offer to call the other insurance agent on my behalf, even though she didnt have to.? I had a check in hand less than 48 hours later, no more grief and no more contact from the other insurance company. Let us know how everything turns out. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Marty To: Triumph Email List ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 1:39 pm Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Rant on: From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Feb 7 19:47:52 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:47:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks References: <200902071906.n17J6YWD029556@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: <00e201c98997$a58fc6e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> What should I do? In my pickup I made a 1" scratch in a lady's bumper by following her SUV too close. The officer on the scene told me he wrote it up as 'minor damage'. Six months later I find out the insurance company sent her $900. I feel thats too much and proably the lady claimed more damage in order to get money for a new bumper (just my guess)! I'm sure my Geico rates will go up due to the lady or their adjuster's negligence (if they ever even sent one out) . Maybe, when I'm driving and if I know that I just 'scratched' a car, I shouldn't pull over (like the lady wanted me to do, in this case)! How can I avoid being taken advantage of? Thanks, Paul Dorsey ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Kantarjiev" To: Sent: Saturday, February 07, 2009 2:06 PM Subject: Re: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks >> I know I could go to Hagerty and get the car fixed now and let them >> hammer >> something out between them but now my stubbornness has kicked in and I'm >> not >> going to he held responsible at all. > > Admirable, but don't get carried away. > > I had an expensive but not horribly serious crash in one of our > non-Triumph > classics about 15 years ago. There was no doubt that I was at fault (I > crossed the double yellow at just the wrong moment). The other driver > said she was fine at the scene, but later came back with mysterious > neck injuries. > > My insurance company handled it all without me ever knowing about it. > > Very different situation ... but this is the kind of nonsense that you're > paying the insurance company for. They're pros at getting these > problems dealt with. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Feb 7 19:58:16 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:58:16 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: Besides that Haagerty has been great to deal with when I had a claim. Mike Moore ************** Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Feb 7 20:10:30 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 22:10:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <00e201c98997$a58fc6e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <200902071906.n17J6YWD029556@moose.dimebank.com> <00e201c98997$a58fc6e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8CB57B1EF001728-1768-35FA@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> Well Paul, the short sarcastic answer is to not follow so close.? Hopefully you will find that humorous since that is the way I intended it.? An answer to your questions is difficult without having viewed the "scratch" in person.? Lets assume that the scratch was sufficient to require the bumper to have to be repainted..? If so, then the estimate is probably pretty accurate.? Your insurance company probably just settled it since to them it was pretty insignificant.? And unless you have had other claims or accidents recently your insurance rates were probably not affected.? Call your insurance company and ask them if you really want to know.? With the same Celica in my earlier post I was hit from behind by a kid in a Saab.? I was all set to check out the damage and if there was none to send him on his way until he got out of his car, stormed over to me and told me that it was "Poor driving on your part to stop so quick."? Heck, I was only avoiding the car in front of me who had stopped so quick also.? I called the police, which I now do ANY time I am involved in an accident and since it was night and it was dark when the accident happened it looked like there was no damage but I looked again in the daylight the next day and discovered the plastic bumper cover had the paint cracked from compression underneath.? My estimate for repair was about $500, which the other guys insurance company paid without even sending an adjuster to view my car.? So $900 12 or so years later for a much larger vehicle doesnt sound unreasonable.? And if the kid had been nice when he got out of the car I probably wouldnt have bothered to file the claim. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: dorpaul To: Chris Kantarjiev ; list Triumph Sent: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 9:47 pm Subject: Re: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks What should I do? In my pickup I made a 1" scratch in a lady's bumper by following her SUV too close. The officer on the scene told me he wrote it up as 'minor damage'. Six months later I find out the insurance company sent her $900. I feel thats too much and proably the lady claimed more damage in order to get money for a new bumper (just my guess)! I'm sure my Geico rates will go up due to the lady or their adjuster's negligence (if they ever even sent one out) . Maybe, when I'm driving and if I know that I just 'scratched' a car, I shouldn't pull over (like the lady wanted me to do, in this case)!? ? How can I avoid being taken advantage of?? ? Thanks, Paul Dorsey? ? From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Feb 7 22:40:35 2009 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 22:40:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <524AC26485D948D7BA2F02411080F4BE@rudy> References: <524AC26485D948D7BA2F02411080F4BE@rudy> Message-ID: Thanks Gary, that is the advice most people are giving me off list as well. Marty On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 7:31 PM, Dave Waldorf wrote: > What Gary is talking about by letting Hagerty handle the cliam is known in > insurance circles as subrogation. My wife handles high level workers > compensation insurance claims currently, but worked her way there through > several steps including as an auto claims analyst. > > We (she) has NEVER handled one of our insurance claims personally. EVERY > claim we've had in 25 years of marriage has been handled though our > insurance, > and subrogated by them on to the person at fault. In no case did it effect > our premium or standing/policy. Also in no case did the person at fault's > insurance company get away with baloney like legal lane changes being a > "contributing factor". If she wouldn't negotiate with an insurance > company, I > can't imagine anyone would do themselves well by trying. > > This is part of what you pay an insurance company for. > > --Dave Waldorf From dkspence at telus.net Sun Feb 8 00:12:19 2009 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 00:12:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <471F3436-B851-4BF6-9122-80DB84430FC0@telus.net> Well Paul, if you did that here you could be charged with failing to remain at the scene of an accident. Carry a digital camera with the date and time set properly and take lots of pictures. Damage close ups, position of vehicles from angles that show where they came to rest, any traffic signs etc. Write out an agreed statement of events and have both parties sign it. Cover your butt! > > . Maybe, when I'm driving and if I know that I just 'scratched' a > car, I shouldn't pull over (like the lady wanted me to do, in this > case)! > > How can I avoid being taken advantage of? From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Feb 8 06:49:46 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:49:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks References: <471F3436-B851-4BF6-9122-80DB84430FC0@telus.net> Message-ID: <010101c989f4$1cf58dd0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Great idea! (I was kinda kidding about not stopping) but, I'll buy a cheap camera for that purpose. Thanks, Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 2:12 AM Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks > Well Paul, if you did that here you could be charged with failing to > remain at the scene of an accident. > > Carry a digital camera with the date and time set properly and take > lots of pictures. Damage close ups, position of vehicles from angles > that show where they came to rest, any traffic signs etc. Write out > an agreed statement of events and have both parties sign it. Cover > your butt! >> >> . Maybe, when I'm driving and if I know that I just 'scratched' a >> car, I shouldn't pull over (like the lady wanted me to do, in this >> case)! >> >> How can I avoid being taken advantage of? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun Feb 8 07:42:42 2009 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:42:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <471F3436-B851-4BF6-9122-80DB84430FC0@telus.net> References: <471F3436-B851-4BF6-9122-80DB84430FC0@telus.net> Message-ID: Carrying a camera is easy now. Most cell phones have one built in. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Feb 8 07:43:45 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 14:43:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] Auto insurance claims. In-Reply-To: <8CB57AE42126E0C-1768-356B@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB57ADB132FC34-1768-354F@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> <8CB57AE42126E0C-1768-356B@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Although it may not apply to classic cars since a lot of you use specialty insurance companies the best claims action I have ever seen was from Progressive Insurance. I had backed into a mailbox and tweaked my trunk lid on my T-bird. I got one estimate for the fix and they sent an adjuster out to my house who looked at the damage and cut a check on the spot for the full estimate. No questions, no haggling. When I had to insure my son's cars for the first time I paid more to get Progressive just for the peace of mind. Best regards, Tom > To: marty.tr6 at gmail.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:44:12 -0500 > From: acekraut11 at aol.com > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks > > Hi Marty, > > > > I thought I would add to the avalanche of advice to let your insurance handle it.? I was hit lightly while driving our 87 Celica 10 or so years ago but was on my own since I had removed collision insurance from the car due to its age and condition.? I was just driving down the street when an older lady just pulled out and creased the entire side of the car.? I fought with the ladies insurance company for three weeks, jumping through all kinds of hoops to try to get them to pay.? Finally I just called my insurance company for some basic advice regarding the best way to proceed since I wasnt familiar with the whole insurance game and my insurance agent was kind enough to offer to call the other insurance agent on my behalf, even though she didnt have to.? I had a check in hand less than 48 hours later, no more grief and no more contact from the other insurance company. > > > > Let us know how everything turns out. > > > > Aaron > > > > > > > > > > > > Aaron Cropley > > 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) > > http://www.triumphowners.com/108 > > 2002 Mini Cooper S > > Topsham, Maine > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Marty > > To: Triumph Email List ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > > Sent: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 1:39 pm > > Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Rant on: > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_022009 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Feb 8 08:10:32 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 10:10:32 EST Subject: [TR] Auto insurance claims. Message-ID: In a message dated 2/8/09 6:44:10 AM, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: > Although it may not apply to classic cars since a lot of you use specialty > insurance companies the best claims action I have ever seen was from > Progressive Insurance. I had backed into a mailbox and tweaked my trunk lid > on my T-bird. I got one estimate for the fix and they sent an adjuster out > to > my house who looked at the damage and cut a check on the spot for the full > estimate. No questions, no haggling. When I had to insure my son's cars > for > the first time I paid more to get Progressive just for the peace of mind. > > Best regards, > Tom > > Tom, I'm sorry, but my experience with Progressive makes me think it is the worst insurance company I have ever dealt with. Their unsured ran a stop light and T boned me. They insisted they were going to total my car. It was a one owner 87 Cavalier Convert V6 and my pride and joy. They insisted the cost of repair was too high (only because of a $1400 door) that it would be unsafe to drive if they repaired it. They behaved dishonestly and I reported them to the California Insurance commission. Only after I claimed against my own company (Allstate) did I get my car fixed. Mike Moore ************** Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00 000003) From dave1massey at cs.com Sun Feb 8 08:13:28 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2009 10:13:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: References: <1686056993.2042271233857495418.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><498B4C6B.12167.113245FE@localhost><498B98E7.8050508@comcast.net><8CB567054EDA4CA-1028-224E@WEBMAIL-MY01.sysops.aol.com> <498CBDFD.4040509@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CB5816EE5A3EA3-310-AD@WEBMAIL-DY02.sysops.aol.com> > Last I heard you can hardly get in for the crowds.? For some reason Yogi Berra> comes to mind. "See? That's why nobody goes there; it's too crowded." _______________________________________________ I? never saw the fork in the road, I guess somebody took it. Dave ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Feb 8 09:20:20 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 08:20:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Auto insurance claims. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090208162020.RNDR23506.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Tom wrote: > > the best claims action I have > > ever seen > > was from Progressive Insurance. Mike Moore replied: > I'm sorry, but my experience with Progressive makes me think > it is the worst insurance company I have ever dealt with. Notice the key difference here, Tom was their customer, while Mike was not. I believe this is usually the case; any insurance company gives better service to the people who are paying them for it. Which is why I feel you should always consult your company, even if you decide not to subrogate. Randall From ElangTR4 at aol.com Sun Feb 8 11:32:17 2009 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 13:32:17 EST Subject: [TR] great drives Message-ID: I also drove this road about 4 years ago. On the way to Hana the passenger could reach out and touch the cliffs. On the return trip this same passenger could spit in the ocean. My biggest regret was not renting a Miata rather than the Ford. What a great drive. Didn't see any Triumphs on Maui, but did see a few on Oahu. Eric 71 TR6 I drove it once, I made myself carsick! John tom white wrote: > As we all contribute our recommendations for great drives I am surprised that > no one has mentioned the road to Hana, Maui, Hawaii. Is it possible that > there aren't any TRs in Maui. More switch backs than a sidewinder with the > stomach cramps. > > Best regards, > Tom **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Feb 8 11:54:14 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 18:54:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Bulkhead Sealers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1770657412.735721234119254037.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Today in plus-40 F. weather, did a bit of work on the (garaged) TR3.B Whooo!B Replaced my defective Overdrive switch (thank you, TeriAnn and Randall). Needles were slow settling, so took off the carb reservoirs, wiped everything clean, checked for smoothness up and down in the needle seat, and cured that itsy-bitsy problem. Fed the leather and naugehyde. Then turned my attention to installing the new rubber TRF bulkhead sealers, side and top.B First, I can't find a picture anywhere how these are supposed to go.B While it may seem intuitive, I can't find the way to position these to give a full seal.B Likely the body panels are off measure.B Also dug and vacuumed a ton of crud (I have a 300 yard gravel/sand driveway) from the bottom of the fenderwell, deposited over the past three or four years.B Because this is the crud that gets damp and causes lower fender rot, I'd like to keep it out as much as possible henceforth. So, question.B Are these rubber bulkhead sealers meant to completely seal the crud out?B Or is there another way to seal the fender well.B I was sort of wondering about that spray in foam house insulation that expands like crazy.B But then, of course, I'd have it to deal with when I take the fender off (hopefully in many years). Or do I somehow plug the draft in the cockpit, and remember to wash the wheel well with a powerwasher when I do the wire wheels, and keep the 3-M rubberized undercoating paint freshened? Terry Smith, TR3A (TS 58667)B B B New Hampshire From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Feb 8 12:53:25 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 19:53:25 -0000 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-America - Latest news from the UK Message-ID: <793F136154FC45EC91376105FCDD84E8@Bevan> Hi, Everyone This is just to let you all know there have been recent updates to the event website at www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk that hopefully a goodly number of you will find interesting? To start with, 'Stagmeister' Joe Pawlak and his loyal band of smashed knucklers at Illinois Sports Owners Association have made real progress with the car. The front and rear suspension is in place, the body is fully painted and the engine rebuild is well underway. If you haven't seen the website recently, there are some new pix so you can see what's going on. Additionally, I'm now delighted to be able to confirm the route details, dates and venues (where known and confirmed) are now on the website as well. Click on the route on the site sidebar and apart from the latest map, you'll be able to see where "uncle jack" and I will be at any time or date. There are still a number of things to firm up regarding events but the bare bones are now in place. We had a major disappointment a few weeks ago when the US charity we'd hoped to work with, decided for reasons we're still not too sure about - to withdraw from the TTACD. The search is now on to identify and recruit a fully accredited and registered US 501c3 non-profit to work with us. Hopefully, we'll be able to reveal all when that sanction is gained. >From now onwards, the next stages of the event are to identify which clubs close to the route want to join in on the Drive itself. Who wants to join a caravan and who doesn't - where each caravan will start and finish etc etc. I'll also soon be opening the doors for 'caravanners' to book their rallyboard or a seat in "uncle jack" as he makes his noble (and noisy) progress across Canada and the U.S. Four months to go now = and counting Jonmac From DLylis at aol.com Sun Feb 8 16:01:31 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 18:01:31 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Trunnions Message-ID: I finally decided to pay attention to the front suspension on my TR6. The car has always driven very well but had too much negative camber in the front wheels. I took all the shims out a couple or three years ago and it improved, but not exactly right. I have taken the suspension apart and have found what I consider to be excess play between the vertical link and the trunnion. I am cleaning everything up and rebushing but would like the lists opinion on the fit. If I pin the lower A arms to the floor with my foot (upper A arms removed) so the vertical link is, well . . .vertical, I can wiggle the vertical link at the ball joint about 1/4" back and forth which would translate to camber at the wheel. All of the play I am talking about is between the link and the trunnion. I cannot turn the trunnion down any more. This is my question. Since the link is steel and the trunnion is brass, will replacing just the trunnion correct this? What can I expect for play with new trunnions? TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From DLylis at aol.com Sun Feb 8 16:09:05 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 18:09:05 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Trunnions Message-ID: In a message dated 2/8/2009 6:02:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: This is my question. Since the link is steel and the trunnion is brass, I meant Bronze, of course. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From gtwincams at gmail.com Sun Feb 8 16:56:59 2009 From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian) Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2009 15:56:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Trunnions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <498F714B.40508@gmail.com> David, Sounds to me like your trunnions are worn where they thread onto the vertical links. It is my experience, and my understanding from talking to friends in the Brit car resto business, that these should not be loose as you are describing, but snug with little to no perceptible play (they should rotate easily however). It is also my experience that if the trunnions have not been oiled for many miles of use the threads on the vertical link will get worn, sometimes significantly. I've seen them so bad that new trunnions would wobble on the links. The threads will also rust, reducing their diameter further. You should inspect the threaded part of the link for any "necking" or wear, and see how a new set of trunnions fit to determine weather replacements are needed. I have found that replacement trunnions from overseas that are sold by the various catalog suppliers vary greatly in quality and consistency. I bought a set from VB last year that were machined so poorly at the inside threads that one would simply not screw completely onto the upright! The other was almost as tight, and being concerned about galling, I refused to use them and returned them for credit, not wanting to get another set from the same manufacturer. I ended up using some gently used older trunnions from my stockpile of parts that fit snugly, and rotate smoothly. Cheers, Greg Tatarian 1974 TR6 1971 Lotus Elan 1974 Alfa Romeo GTV From DLylis at aol.com Sun Feb 8 17:32:59 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 19:32:59 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Trunnions Message-ID: Thanks. The Trunnions have been well lubricated while in my possession and the Vertical links do not appear to be excesively worn. That remains to be seen, of course, when fitted to new trunnions. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Feb 8 17:41:08 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 19:41:08 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 Trunnions Message-ID: In a message dated 2/8/2009 5:01:57 PM Central Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > I have taken the suspension apart and have found what I consider to be > excess play between the vertical link and the trunnion. I am cleaning > everything > up and rebushing but would like the lists opinion on the fit. If I pin the > > lower A arms to the floor with my foot (upper A arms removed) so the > vertical > link is, well . . .vertical, I can wiggle the vertical link at the ball > joint > about 1/4" back and forth which would translate to camber at the wheel. > All > of the play I am talking about is between the link and the trunnion. I > cannot turn the trunnion down any more. > This is my question. Since the link is steel and the trunnion is brass, > will replacing just the trunnion correct this? What can I expect for play > with > new trunnions? Is that all? Don't expect the trunnion to control the vertical link in htis way, that is what the upper control arms are for. The real question is do you have any lateral movement in the trunions. That means if you fix the trunion can you move the vertical link right/left of fore/aft at the trunion end of things. I'll bet there is little if any perceptible movement there. Put some poly bushings up top and see how solid your suspension is then. Dave From llst at shaw.ca Sun Feb 8 19:43:54 2009 From: llst at shaw.ca (LT) Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2009 18:43:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Bulkhead Sealers Message-ID: <498F986A.1000204@shaw.ca> "I was sort of wondering about that spray in foam house insulation that expands like crazy" I once heard that these foams absorb water like a sponge Don't know if this is true, perhaps one should do a test on it first. Perhaps using some spray on undercoating might be better. Larry Ternowski Langley BC From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Feb 8 19:48:35 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 21:48:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] parts Message-ID: I have posted a few TR4 & TR6 parts on ebay if anyone has an interest. Thanks for looking, Al http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESE LX:IT&item=180327073318 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sun Feb 8 19:57:58 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 21:57:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Bulkhead Sealers In-Reply-To: <498F986A.1000204@shaw.ca> References: <498F986A.1000204@shaw.ca> Message-ID: > "I was sort of wondering about that spray in foam house insulation that expands like crazy"> > I once heard that these foams absorb water like a sponge> > Don't know if this is true, perhaps one should do a test on it first.> > Perhaps using some spray on undercoating might be better.> > Larry Ternowski> > Langley BC A local pilot filled the area between the spring steel landing gear legs and their fairings on his Cessna with this foam. It acted just like a sponge. The legs rusted very badly and needed replacing. John H. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Feb 9 07:38:18 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 14:38:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Another great drive in Maui is taking the old road from the other side of the island from the Hana road. Most rental cars advise or forbid doing this but I never got caught. The locals I encountered along this road were very friendly. The road itself when I last traveled it is a dirt one lane road. It is in pretty good condition for a dirt road. It isn't nearly as windy as the Hana route and the views are tremendous. Along the way I stopped at a small chapel over looking the ocean. There was a single grave stone in the chapel yard. The inscription read "John Lindberg". Sure enough America's most famous aviator is buried there. There is also a small country store where you can stop for refreshments. The road joins the paved road to Hana at the ranger station. Another nice drive for experience with the native population is the west, I think, side of the island. All the rental cars forbid taking their vehicles there. So I rented a Harley from Island Riders and took my 10 year old son on the ride. The locals were all friendly. You get some great views and the experience of seeing how real Hawaiians live. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009 From nogera at worldnet.att.net Mon Feb 9 10:30:09 2009 From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira ) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 11:30:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <471F3436-B851-4BF6-9122-80DB84430FC0@telus.net> Message-ID: When a bus backed into my car the first thing I did was grab my PDA ( which has my GPS) and turn on the recorder. I put it in my breast pocket and asked the driver what happened. After getting his statement I reviewed the damages with him making sure that he acknowledged all the damage and took pictures. Bob > -----Original Message----- > Carry a digital camera with the date and time set properly and take > lots of pictures. Damage close ups, position of vehicles from angles > that show where they came to rest, any traffic signs etc. From pethier at comcast.net Mon Feb 9 11:16:58 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 18:16:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] great drives In-Reply-To: <1841606858.3452921234203255180.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1253630344.3454541234203418668.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > Along the way I stopped at a > small chapel > over looking the ocean. There was a single grave stone in the chapel > yard. > The inscription read "John Lindberg". Sure enough America's most > famous > aviator is buried there. Huh? From Wikipedia: Charles Lindbergh spent his final years on the Hawaiian island of Maui, where he died on August 26, 1974. He was buried on the grounds of the Palapala Ho'omau Church in Kipahulu, Maui. His epitaph on a simple stone which quotes Psalms 139:9, reads: Charles A. Lindbergh Born: Michigan, 1902. Died: Maui, 1974. If I take the wings of the morning, and dwell in the uttermost parts of the sea." Because of earthquake damage to Hawaii State Highway 31, Lindbergh's final resting place is presently accessible by land only via State Highway 360, the so-called Road to Hana. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From triumph66 at gmail.com Mon Feb 9 16:01:16 2009 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 18:01:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] timing chains for TRs Message-ID: What are listers preferences for timing chain brands when rebuilding TR engines? Both engines are TR2-4 engines TIA, Ted -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Feb 9 16:20:09 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 09 Feb 2009 17:20:09 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] timing chains for TRs Message-ID: <663002560.3579891234221609973.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Ted, I saw your post and remembered that TRF is running a special on "Wonderful New Weekend Feature-Renold Timing Chains". Charles states them as original. Hope this helps. Here is the URL: http://www.zeni.net/trf/weekend/3.php Take care, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 Vienna, VA On Mon, Feb 9, 2009 at 6:01 PM, Ted wrote: > What are listers preferences for timing chain brands when rebuilding > TR > engines? Both engines are TR2-4 engines > TIA, Ted > > -- > T.L.L. > 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO > www.triumphowners.com/967 > 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Feb 9 16:43:27 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 23:43:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Bulkhead Sealers In-Reply-To: <269011066.1285611234222896847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <171847656.1286471234223007417.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Did you just get the replacement rubber of the complete kit(RFK757)? B I am >assuming that you just got the rubber bits.... You will need to remove the >metal plate with the six bolts that attach it to the bulkhead, then you can >drill out and replace the pop rivets while on your workbench. Ah, maybe this is the explanation.B Is there supposed to be a metal plate bolted to the bulkhead to which is fastened the rubber sealer strips?B My project car came with no such animal.... Terry From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Feb 9 17:44:00 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 16:44:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Bulkhead Sealers In-Reply-To: <171847656.1286471234223007417.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <269011066.1285611234222896847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <171847656.1286471234223007417.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <008601c98b18$aa8c7ee0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Ah, maybe this is the explanation.B Is there supposed to be a metal plate > bolted to the bulkhead to which is fastened the rubber sealer strips? Yup, that's right. Actually there are two metal plates per side, one is bolted to the tub and the other is riveted to the first with the upper flat piece of rubber sandwiched between the two metal plates. TRF P/N RFK757 is the whole kit (including the pop rivets), which sells for about the same price as just the two larger metal plates. http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/29.php Wish I'd noticed that before, as I just bought the rubber and one of my plates is in poor condition. Randall From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Feb 10 06:15:42 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:15:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Auto insurance claims. References: <20090208162020.RNDR23506.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <002301c98b81$ad2b7c00$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> > Notice the key difference here, Tom was their customer, while Mike was > not. > I believe this is usually the case; any insurance company gives better > service to the people who are paying them for it. While that's a cute notion, experience says otherwise. It comes down to the claims adjuster. Some are Demons from Hell who thoroughly enjoy hurting people, others are caring humans. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Feb 10 06:34:46 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 08:34:46 EST Subject: [TR] Auto insurance claims. Message-ID: In a message dated 2/10/2009 5:16:37 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, opposumking at verizon.net writes: While that's a cute notion, experience says otherwise. It comes down to the claims adjuster. Some are Demons from Hell who thoroughly enjoy hurting people, others are caring humans. _______________________________________________ In fact, my insurance company, Hagerty, in my "good experience" (I drove my 64 E Type, insured by Hagerty, into my 63 E Type, also insured by Hagerty) used an independent local adjuster. I don't know if he was dishonest or what. My body shop, which had done the restoration, had given a pretty high estimate. When the adjuster came to see the damage, I explained to him why there was so much labor, and showed him. He told me the estimate looked good and he would approve it as is. he then proceeded to go to the shop and cause a lot of grief. Those are really good guys and this ah got them all riled up tryiing to get them down on price, allegedly including negative racial comments. (My shop is hispanic, the adjuster filipino). I called Hagerty and they instantly removed him, told me he was on a tryout and we'd not see him again. They then told the shop to proceed as estimated and apologized profusely. Hagerty is the greatest. I have had great experience with Allstate also. I had extensive damage to three cars in an earthquake and Allstate was super to deal with. They were all collector cars which carried comprehensive only with Allstate & all other coverage through a collector car company. Mike Moore **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. AOL Music takes you there. (http://music.aol.com/grammys?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Feb 10 12:53:33 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 11:53:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] Auto insurance claims. In-Reply-To: <002301c98b81$ad2b7c00$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> References: <20090208162020.RNDR23506.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> <002301c98b81$ad2b7c00$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <01f501c98bb9$41fc8a90$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > While that's a cute notion, experience says otherwise. So, what was your experience, Nolan? And more importantly, why are they still getting your money? No doubt there are some bad adjusters out there, and companies that encourage them. But if all their customers took their business elsewhere, they wouldn't stay companies for long. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Feb 10 16:20:24 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 23:20:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Bulkhead Sealers In-Reply-To: <008601c98b18$aa8c7ee0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <1608924007.1777471234308024241.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> While TRF is OOS on the sealer plates, Moss has in stock and they're on their way.B This finally lays to rest the bewilderment about why I was getting sand and leaves kicked up into the cockpit from the wheels.B Now I don't have to stuff a towel into the bulkhead to keep out the frigid air during the hard frosts of Fall. Thank you, everyone! Terry >> Ah, maybe this is the explanation.B B Is there supposed to be a metal plate >> bolted to the bulkhead to which is fastened the rubber sealer strips? >Yup, that's right. B Actually there are two metal plates per side, one is >bolted to the tub and the other is riveted to the first with the upper flat >piece of rubber sandwiched between the two metal plates. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Feb 10 17:19:46 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 16:19:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] transmission rebuild Message-ID: <393531.29694.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Darcy, I tackled a tr-6 transmission rebuild out of part ignorance adn part niavety.LOL I purchased the roadster factory kit of usual wear items and followed the workshop manual to a T. This rebuild was probably one of the most frustrating things I've done but also when done the most rewarding. It's one of those jobs that you SWEAR you need 3 extra hands to keep all parts in order. Assembly was a bitch initially because of the close tolerances of the two shafts that go through the casing.....and also through the gears,synchro's ect. Matter of fact if i remember right the gears as well as thrust washers in the lower area of the transmission all lay in there loose.......as you shove the shaft through the casing adn through the gears..........this is rather blind because you already have to have the upper shaft and gears installed which covers up the lower gears. unbelievably it did work. its a job that took patience and many many trial fits while trying to keep all the parts in correct order. I'm surprised i got it done. I'm not at all guaranteeing my work even to myself!LOL The transmission does work and has over 300 miles on it although sometimes a glitch from 2nd to 3rd. not sure i'd do it again. lol gary n. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Feb 10 20:00:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 19:00:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] transmission rebuild In-Reply-To: <393531.29694.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090211030039.LMCJ8858.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Matter > of fact if i remember right the gears as well as thrust > washers in the lower area of the transmission all lay in > there loose.......as you shove the shaft through the casing > adn through the gears... Yup, dat's right. > .......this is rather blind because > you already have to have the upper shaft and gears installed > which covers up the lower gears. unbelievably it did work. Even more entertaining on the Stag box, which has two washers and a bearing at each end, instead of just one washer. But it's still not too hard. > sure i'd do it again. lol If you do, be sure to check out the excellent tech articles available at http://www.vtr.org/maintain-index.shtml and http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm While a factory book or Haynes is still a good thing to have, the above (free) articles are much clearer IMO. Randall From triumphworks at gmail.com Tue Feb 10 20:30:31 2009 From: triumphworks at gmail.com (Alain) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 22:30:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] strange TR commercial Message-ID: www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnS37fuXSto&NR= -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 From pcaffrey at ymail.com Tue Feb 10 20:43:25 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 19:43:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] strange TR commercial In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <230759.75449.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Well, the West is still remembered for quality autos -- they have to go all the way back to the TRs....The actress could have taken some lessons from Marylin Monroe on the wink part. Pat TR4A '67 --- On Wed, 2/11/09, Alain wrote: From: Alain Subject: [TR] strange TR commercial To: "list Triumph" Date: Wednesday, February 11, 2009, 3:30 AM www.youtube.com/watch?v=GnS37fuXSto&NR= -- 67 TR4A 71 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Feb 10 21:01:33 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 23:01:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] strange TR commercial In-Reply-To: <230759.75449.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: Message-ID: <4992074D.26124.113B7ACE@localhost> On 10 Feb 2009 at 19:43, P Caffrey wrote: > The actress could have taken some lessons from > Marylin Monroe on the wink part. Winking? I didn't notice any winking. I might have been distracted. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Feb 10 21:01:33 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 23:01:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] transmission rebuild In-Reply-To: <393531.29694.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4992074D.27396.113B7B2C@localhost> On 10 Feb 2009 at 16:19, Gary Nafziger wrote: > I tackled a tr-6 transmission rebuild out of part ignorance... > Assembly was a bitch initially because I've finally started putting my GT6 transmission back together. Assembly was easy though. I just dropped all the pieces in, screwed the top down tight and shook it for 5 minutes. (The shaking was the hard part - that baby is heavy!) Thanks to some very good help from Dale (dmo), I can see the way to get the last bits in place. Then I'll tackle getting the layshaft through its thrust washers. :-0 Yes, it has been educational and very rewarding. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Feb 11 05:20:47 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 07:20:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? Message-ID: <49927C4F.22483.13048C44@localhost> Speaking of gears, perhaps one of you with a mech. eng. or manufacturing eng. background can explain how they make them? We take them for granted but a gear is a marvelous device. To create those helical teeth and hardened surfaces must require some diabolically clever technique or at least people who knows what they are doing. A blacksmith's hammer and tongs ain't innit, I suspect. (I think I'll just pop down to the drugstore and pick up a few layshafts. Need anything while I'm there?) Have always been curious. Thanks, -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From fishplate at charter.net Wed Feb 11 05:44:13 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 4:44:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? In-Reply-To: <49927C4F.22483.13048C44@localhost> Message-ID: <20090211074413.UIV3T.472073.root@mp19> ---- Jim Muller wrote: > Speaking of gears, perhaps one of you with a mech. eng. or > manufacturing eng. background can explain how they make them? It's not complicated, but it does require special cutters and some precision tools. An example of cutting a small gear is at aka http://tinyurl.com/gear-cutting with some pictures. This is for a camera gear, but just imagine it a bit larger. Cutting a helical gear just requires holding the blank at the proper angle. And of course, our gears are hardened. While you're at the drugstore, pick me up a nice Bridgeport lathe, will you? Thanks... Jeff Scarbrough Metal Shavings, Ga. From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Feb 11 05:49:11 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 07:49:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? In-Reply-To: <20090211074413.UIV3T.472073.root@mp19> References: <49927C4F.22483.13048C44@localhost> Message-ID: <499282F7.31309.131E8CA3@localhost> On 11 Feb 2009 at 4:44, fishplate at charter.net wrote: > An example of cutting a small gear is at > > > > aka http://tinyurl.com/gear-cutting Fascinating. Thank you, sir. The things one misses in life when one goes down a different path... > While you're at the drugstore, pick me up a nice Bridgeport lathe, > will you? Thanks.. What color you want? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jdinnis at gmail.com Wed Feb 11 05:54:04 2009 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 06:54:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? In-Reply-To: <49927C4F.22483.13048C44@localhost> References: <49927C4F.22483.13048C44@localhost> Message-ID: Depends on the gear and what it will be used for. Most gears are cut, usually on a lathe and mill, or a specialized gear cutting mill. You can make just about anything on a mill with the right table, cutter and sufficent time. Then they are case hardened to resist wear withoug becoming too brittle. Newer gears are actually pressed from powdered iron under heat and very high pressure. This makes the gear much easier to manufacture, but at the cost of some strength. To compensate, gears made in this fashion typically must be somewhat larger to do the same job. On Wed, Feb 11, 2009 at 6:20 AM, Jim Muller wrote: > Speaking of gears, perhaps one of you with a mech. eng. or > manufacturing eng. background can explain how they make them? -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Feb 11 05:16:28 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 05:16:28 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? In-Reply-To: <49927C4F.22483.13048C44@localhost> Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090211051628.18d7041e@pop.west.cox.net> Jim, Not really sure what you mean by "make", since that encompasses quite a few processes but basically and very simply, they are designed with a few basic formulas (which can be found in any machinists handbook) depending upon the type of service the gears is going to be used for, then either cut or molded (if plastic) They are cut like any metal using a variety of speciality rotary cutters, usually carbide, or in the case of ring and pinion ground and lapped as a set. if required the surface of the gear teeth can be hardened (as in those used in most if not all automotive transmissions) That's basically it in a nutshell ************************original message****************************** Speaking of gears, perhaps one of you with a mech. eng. or manufacturing eng. background can explain how they make them? Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Feb 11 08:14:07 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:14:07 -0000 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? References: <49927C4F.22483.13048C44@localhost> <499282F7.31309.131E8CA3@localhost> Message-ID: Casting my mind back to my Apprentice days (early 60's) the gear cutting machines at both Standard-Triumph and Jaguar would machine a gear from start to finish in about two minutes. The blank was held vertical but at an angle to the cutter (to create the helix) which moved up and down at very high speed with each 'pass' shaving off a little more metal. When it reached the required depth, the machine rotated the gear blank a few degrees one way or the other to start the next cut. It was quite difficult to see the actual cutting process as the gear and cutter had a continuous baptism of stuff we called *suds* which was simply a very lightweight cutting oil mixed with warm water. This obviously kept gear and cutter cool and the swarf was retained in a large catch-tank. Upon machining completion, the finished gear was washed in lightweight oil and then dropped on to special racks for heat treatment. I'm sure modern machines are far more sophisticated but the ones I operated (or over-saw) were entirely automatic and would cut six gears at a time. On a related theme, I remember a group of Japanese visitors from Toyota watching me when I was machining a Jaguar crankshaft (again automatic) and one of them was clearly fascinated at the intense blue colour of the swarf coming off the tool - and he picked it up to examine it more closely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I suppose the 'loss of face' he would have suffered at the hands of his colleagues stopped him yelling out in agony with burnt fingers - but all he did was to flick the swarf back and utter a sound of "Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwww" Then he plunged his hand into a pocket and kept it there. I *almost* felt sorry for him. Jonmac From pethier at comcast.net Wed Feb 11 09:08:54 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 16:08:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? In-Reply-To: <295766472.76471234368524273.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <209797369.76521234368534142.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- fishplate at charter.net wrote: > An example of cutting a small gear is at > > > aka http://tinyurl.com/gear-cutting > > with some pictures. This is for a camera gear, but just imagine it a > bit larger. The process shown here is approximate, if I am seeing these pictures correctly, but the error is small and is taken care of in the hand-filing he did after. The correct process is for the cutting head to advance across the blank, not be plunged towards the center. > Cutting a helical gear just requires holding the blank at > the proper angle. That would only give an approximation of a helical gear. The actual process is a bit more complicated. A large machine which I believe is called a "hobb" is used. It has a rotary cutting head with cutters shaped like the "grooves" in the gear. As the cutter head proceeds at angle across the gear blank, the gear blank rotates slightly. The cutter advances slightly with each cut. The process is called "hobbing a gear". Phil Ethier From spitlist at cox.net Wed Feb 11 09:40:09 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 09:40:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? In-Reply-To: References: <49927C4F.22483.13048C44@localhost><499282F7.31309.131E8CA3@localhost> Message-ID: <79303B4E591A47AAA9847D24170A2428@joepentiumnew> That is amazing John! It took Triumph the same amount of time to make a gear as it does for me to destroy it! :) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:14 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? Casting my mind back to my Apprentice days (early 60's) the gear cutting machines at both Standard-Triumph and Jaguar would machine a gear from start to finish in about two minutes. The blank was held vertical but at an angle to the cutter (to create the helix) which moved up and down at very high speed with each 'pass' shaving off a little more metal. When it reached the required depth, the machine rotated the gear blank a few degrees one way or the other to start the next cut. It was quite difficult to see the actual cutting process as the gear and cutter had a continuous baptism of stuff we called *suds* which was simply a very lightweight cutting oil mixed with warm water. This obviously kept gear and cutter cool and the swarf was retained in a large catch-tank. Upon machining completion, the finished gear was washed in lightweight oil and then dropped on to special racks for heat treatment. I'm sure modern machines are far more sophisticated but the ones I operated (or over-saw) were entirely automatic and would cut six gears at a time. On a related theme, I remember a group of Japanese visitors from Toyota watching me when I was machining a Jaguar crankshaft (again automatic) and one of them was clearly fascinated at the intense blue colour of the swarf coming off the tool - and he picked it up to examine it more closely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I suppose the 'loss of face' he would have suffered at the hands of his colleagues stopped him yelling out in agony with burnt fingers - but all he did was to flick the swarf back and utter a sound of "Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwww" Then he plunged his hand into a pocket and kept it there. I *almost* felt sorry for him. Jonmac This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 11 09:47:51 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 08:47:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090211164751.TVMJ18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Then they > are case hardened to resist wear withoug becoming too > brittle. I've been wondering about that. Some simple experiments with original Triumph gears seem to indicate that they are not case hardened. In fact, they aren't very hard at all. Compared to say, a cheap socket, they cut quite easily. So I would guess that they are only heat treated and left at a moderate temper. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Feb 11 10:00:55 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:00:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? Message-ID: <20090211120055.BZB23316@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Jonmac wrote: > and he picked it up to examine it more closely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great story, John. It reminds me of the joke that ends with "It just don't take me long to look at a horseshoe." -- Jim Muller, not ready to cut my own gears just yet though From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Feb 11 10:21:58 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:21:58 EST Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? Message-ID: In a message dated 2/11/2009 8:48:27 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: I've been wondering about that. Some simple experiments with original Triumph gears seem to indicate that they are not case hardened. In fact, they aren't very hard at all. Compared to say, a cheap socket, they cut quite easily. So I would guess that they are only heat treated and left at a moderate temper. Randall I have designed and manufactured gears for gearboxes and final drives in industrial equipment, (sometimes more successfully than others!) There is a big decision point issue regarding surface hardening or not as this is a big cost driver. When I can, I prefer to through harden to 38 Rc if possible, and not surface harden. Bad things can happen when you surface harden (cracking, insufficient case depth, distortion etc.) You're also doing this because something is stressed highly enough that wear is an issue. I once watched some Harley Davidson gears being cut through hardened to 58C using a Japanese $2M gear cutter. These were very high precision high speed gears. If you surface harden, you usually need to worry about surface accuracy and I have had to have gears ground to retain the accuracy. Some methods distort more than others, some methods promote cracking more than others. Through hardening to too high a level can also cause the material to become brittle. I once made a gearset of 440C stainless steel (55 Rc through) and they broke up due to shock loading, even though we never approached the yield strength. We later referred to them as the 'glass gears"! Cost is a big issue, and the designer has to look at all the alternatives, such as material choice, design, methods of manufacture, tooling etc. etc. I once saw some gears in San Diego being cut out of a stack of plywood glued together! I have no idea what his application was, but he could have had steel or aluminum for almostthe same price as he was paying for machine time. Mike Moore From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Feb 11 10:29:47 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 11:29:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? References: <20090211164751.TVMJ18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <81A1913F36AA4ECB862F60E61F1454FA@KARL> Never machined a TR gear, but mainshafts were case hardened. When my '71 TR6 ate its overdrive at about 24,000 miles (in 1972) I bought a '64 OD transmission for parts. Everything in the OD fit fine, except the nose of the mainshaft was too large to fit into the beefier TR6 pilot bearing in the back of the input gear. Being a Saturday, and not wishing to wait to order (or pay for) a brand new mainshaft, I tried turning down the '64 mainshaft. A carbide tool did a great job and left a decent finish. When I was done, I could see a color and finish difference where I'd cut through some of the case hardening into the softer steel beneath. That worried me for a while, till I looked at the nose of the original part (I'd bought this car new and the transmission had never been touched before), and saw the same pattern, as if it had been cut in the same way. I wondered then and still if Triumph hadn't cut down some earlier mainshafts for later production. Karl PS - It worked fine for another 12,000 miles, till I sold the car. >> Then they >> are case hardened to resist wear withoug becoming too >> brittle. > > I've been wondering about that. Some simple experiments with original > Triumph gears seem to indicate that they are not case hardened. In fact, > they aren't very hard at all. Compared to say, a cheap socket, they cut > quite easily. So I would guess that they are only heat treated and left > at > a moderate temper. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 11 12:58:26 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 11:58:26 -0800 Subject: [TR] How do they manufacture gears? In-Reply-To: <20090211120055.BZB23316@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20090211120055.BZB23316@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <03aa01c98c83$1a96baa0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Great story, John. It reminds me of the joke that ends with "It just > don't take me long to look at a horseshoe." Or the Jeff Foxworthy (et al) ditty about "Here's your sign". "If he'd had his sign, I could have warned him>" Randall From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Feb 11 15:27:17 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:27:17 Subject: [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> I won an ebay auction for a heavy metal item (4 Kilos about 9 lbs) but the post there has quoted the sender about 75 GBP (around $108). That seems awfully high to me - What is the preferred method for sending something of this nature from England to the United States (Southern California) Surely it should cost less than that to send this item - I had a Quaife sent, weighing probably about the same or possibly even a bit more, and it didn't cost any where near that much. And it arrived only a couple of days after I ordered it, so it wasn't on the slow boat - - granted, it was probably around 10 or more year ago, but things haven't gone up that much--have they?? Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From tr3a at comcast.net Wed Feb 11 16:39:42 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 18:39:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <499361BE.4050704@comcast.net> Not sure about heavy stuff, but I recently paid nearly $18 to ship an item that weighed just a few ounces. This from the UK, just outside London. Standard Royal Mail, nothing special...well, except it was "royal". :) You have a 9 pound quaife?!! Wow! Barry Schwartz wrote: I won an ebay auction for a heavy metal item (4 Kilos about 9 lbs) but the post there has quoted the sender about 75 GBP (around $108). That seems awfully high to me - What is the preferred method for sending something of this nature from England to the United States (Southern California) Surely it should cost less than that to send this item - I had a Quaife sent, weighing probably about the same or possibly even a bit more, and it didn't cost any where near that much. And it arrived only a couple of days after I ordered it, so it wasn't on the slow boat - - granted, it was probably around 10 or more year ago, but things haven't gone up that much--have they?? Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tr3a at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 11 16:48:44 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 15:48:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <045101c98ca3$472bcae0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > but things haven't gone up that much--have > they?? Just for grins, I got a quote from ParcelForce (the UK equivalent of our post office for packages). http://www.parcelforce.com The estimate I got for a 1 foot cubed (31 cm/side), 4kg parcel to the US was only fractionally less than your quote (73 GBP for 3-day delivery with insurance & tracking). Perhaps your package is larger than what I entered or the seller is charging a bit for materials or whatnot. Or perhaps there is a surcharge in effect. But basically yes, it costs that much. You could perhaps opt for that slow boat, but the price only drops to 55 GBP and there is no insurance or tracking offered. Which gives you no recourse if it just never arrives ... Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Feb 11 17:17:04 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:17:04 EST Subject: [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - Message-ID: Do you need 3 day delivery? Although everyone discourages it, ship cheapest way and it makes a huge difference. If you're buying a lot, its cheaper to fly over and pay the extra baggage fare. I've done that a few times. Mike Moore From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Feb 11 17:33:52 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 17:33:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: To look at from the other end, the post office no longer sends items overseas at a surface rate that weigh over 4 pounds. Not even to Canada! Whatever weighs 4 lbs plus has to go by Priority Mail at a cost of approximately $50 for 9 pounds going to Great Britain. Their postal rates are higher, I believe, so your package is not out of line.... Regards, Bill On Feb 11, 2009, at 3:27 PM, Barry Schwartz wrote: > I won an ebay auction for a heavy metal item (4 Kilos about 9 lbs) > but the > post there has quoted the sender about 75 GBP (around $108). That > seems > awfully high to me - What is the preferred method for sending > something of > this nature from England to the United States (Southern California) > ...things haven't gone up that much--have they?? > Barry Schwartz > La Mesa, CA (San Diego) > _ From goh62agan at verizon.net Wed Feb 11 19:46:20 2009 From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 21:46:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] early TR4 trunk hood prop Message-ID: <8b8e6a6babf7bbf7cd2aa0af1807f424@verizon.net> List, It seems that I'm on a scavenger hunt for parts. I guess that's what happens when you buy a car that comes in boxes (some assembly required). The stay rod for the trunk lid is missing. Apparently my 62 TR didn't have the telescoping prop or the brace that supports it. The diagram in the Moss catalogue isn't too clear on how this is attached or how it works. Can someone send me a photo of where the prop "fits"? Is there a bracket that bolts/screws to the body? TIA Gary O From mlang99 at comcast.net Wed Feb 11 21:11:23 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 20:11:23 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wow! My hubs are really stuck! In-Reply-To: <20081123120210.RTBT4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081123120210.RTBT4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4993A16B.8090308@comcast.net> I have now tried all sorts of things to get the hubs off of my TR3 axles. The first thing I tried was the tool recommended in Randall's email below. I had no luck on either hub. I used slices of 3/4 steel water pipe to make the collars. I hammered on the driver tool until the collars swelled almost enough to get stuck in the gap between the hub and shaft. Using this technique, I didn't do any damage to the hubs or axles so that was positive, but they wouldn't pop loose. The next thing that I tried was making a ring out of 3/4 inch steel plate to support the thin surface of the hub when it's in the press. I put it in the press and pushed to it's limit which is 10 tons. I even heated the hub with the torch but still no luck. The last thing that I tried was my local machine shop. They have a shop limit of 10 tons for safety reasons, so they are no better off than I am. The only other thing that I can think of, is to retrofit my press with a 20 ton bottle jack and push harder. It's an old press frame that was originally a 20 ton press but the ram got replaced with a smaller one. Does anyone have any other suggestions that I should try? So far, I don't think I have done any damage to either the hubs or axles. Thanks, Mike Randall wrote: > Michael : > > The rear hubs are typically so tight that the hub is not strong enough to be > simply pressed off, without distorting the face of the hub. You need to > bolt something heavy that supports the face, similar to the way the original > Churchill tool did. > > Or, Ken describes an intriguing alternative here > http://192.94.170.51/start/phorum/read.php?1,15880,15982#msg-15982 > that might be worth a try. Haven't had occasion to try it myself yet, but I > will when the time comes. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 11 23:30:29 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 22:30:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wow! My hubs are really stuck! In-Reply-To: <4993A16B.8090308@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090212063029.NONY17503.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does anyone have any other suggestions that I should try? Well, here's one. This is Eugene Wellenstein's design for "The Beast", a puller made from heavy pipe flanges and various other hardware items with only basic machining. Unfortunately I don't know of a web site that has it, but I can email it to anyone who wants it. I think you can also find Tony Gordon's drawing of the factory puller on the net. But if not, I have a PDF of that, too. Good lathe project for a beginner (like me), but takes a big chunk of steel (6" diameter by 4" long). Yet another option is to box up the halfshafts with the hubs & bearings still attached, and ship them off to someone like Mike Macy or John Esposito. HVDA used to do them too, but I don't know if he has time for such things these days or not. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of 1959 TR3 Rear Axle and Hub Separator.pdf] From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Feb 12 04:02:42 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 11:02:42 -0000 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Shipping a "heavy" item from England - References: <3.0.4.16.20090211152717.1eb75de6@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <71C3AFEF323F4236953189220A5938D3@Bevan> In no way would I seek to justify high shipping charges out of the UK on anything - and yes, sending heavy items by mail is asking for a price like a defence budget. In my experience, asking an ebay seller to obtain a quote from someone like www.parcels2go.co.uk would be sensible. Over the last year, I shipped lots of stuff from the UK to Chicago for the Triumph Trans-America Stag and those rates have been surprisingly low. As an example, we've just shipped a complete exhaust system direct from the supplier for about $75 US. Stag exhausts are not noted for their compactness or light weight or small cube - all of which go into the cost equation. As for rates via the mail (the route many ebay sellers use) European postage rates are fixed collectively by the National Mail Organisations of member states of the EU - and not by the British post office for parcels leaving the UK, so the inefficiencies of ourselves and others all get costed in. One last thing to consider is the British pound has until recently been worth around US$1.95 though the rate is now around US$1.45. It all adds up to what looks like a bad deal for the buyer and it usually is. Moral? As far as Europe is concerned, never think that prices *ought* to be in the same ballpark as Canada or the US. Sadly, they rarely are. Get your seller to shop around on your behalf - if they're prepared to. Jonmac From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Feb 12 05:06:22 2009 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 05:06:22 Subject: [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20090212050622.19876a32@pop.west.cox.net> Thanks guys Looks like it is quite expensive, but one quote from www.parcels2go.co.uk (Thanks John) was a bit less - we'll see if he can send it that way Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From triumph.driver at gmail.com Thu Feb 12 06:40:23 2009 From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 08:40:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wow! My hubs are really stuck! In-Reply-To: <20090212063029.NONY17503.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 1:30 AM To: 'Michael Lang'; 'triumph list' Subject: Re: [TR] Wow! My hubs are really stuck! > Does anyone have any other suggestions that I should try? Yet another option is to box up the halfshafts with the hubs & bearings still attached, and ship them off to someone like Mike Macy or John Esposito. HVDA used to do them too, but I don't know if he has time for such things these days or not. Randall From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Thu Feb 12 07:38:11 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:38:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] transmission rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1D9EFA55-5C17-43FB-B0C8-50461895F20A@mgcarclub.com> > Matter of fact if i remember right the gears as well as > thrust washers in the lower area of the transmission all lay in there > loose.......as you shove the shaft through the casing adn through the > gears..........this is rather blind because you already have to > have the upper > shaft and gears installed which covers up the lower gears. > unbelievably it > did work. The last time I did this I placed the bell housing face down on the bench and overhanging the edge enough to reach inside. The beauty is that when you place the thrust washers and lay gear inside and align the bores, they just sit there. Easy to measure the end float. For final assembly the bell housing will have to be on a couple of small blocks because the input shaft protrudes. Again it's pretty easy to align the lay gear and install the shaft because the stay where you put them. Allen From triumph66 at gmail.com Thu Feb 12 08:32:24 2009 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:32:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shipping a "heavy" item from England In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20090212050622.19876a32@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20090212050622.19876a32@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: I would suggest approaching a west coast Brit vendor who brings over parts regularly from UK (vendors tell me they're placing lots of UK parts orders with the $/sterling exchange rate at present) and see if you can't have your shipment sent to their freight forwarder. This has worked well for me in the past. HTH, Ted On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 8:06 AM, Barry Schwartz wrote: > Thanks guys > Looks like it is quite expensive, but one quote from www.parcels2go.co.uk > (Thanks John) was a bit less - we'll see if he can send it that way > > Barry Schwartz > La Mesa, CA (San Diego) > ______________________ -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From opposumking at verizon.net Thu Feb 12 08:36:47 2009 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 10:36:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] >>NASS Aluminum shrinking References: <425276.68890.qm@web52209.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002001c98d27$bb0f1aa0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Take a look at this proceedure from the Metalshapers Association.. http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&al bumid=9980121727059 While it's described as being easy to do, I do suspect it's easy to do only for those who really know what they are doing. I bet yours truly could make a glorious mess of it. He does describe using an old pot lid as a shrinking disc. ----- Original Message ----- From: Spitfire4 To: eTCOC at yahoogroups.com ; nass at yahoogroups.com ; GT6 List ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 11:03 PM Subject: >>NASS Aluminum shrinking Anyone have any good experience and/or advice about shrinking and removing small dents in aluminum body panels? I have a factory surrey top I dont want to fill or damage any further. I wanted to ask about it before I attempt any work. I might order some shrinking disc for my side grinder next. thanks Douglas A. Hansen www.1147cc.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] __._,_.___ Messages in this topic (1) Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Members | Calendar >> To unsubscribe send an empty email to: nass-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com >> NASS Home Site nasshq resources http://www.nasshq.org >> Full Membership details: http://www.nasshq.org/docs/memberapp.html MARKETPLACE ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - From kitchen basics to easy recipes - join the Group from Kraft Foods Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch format to Traditional Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe Recent Activity a.. 1New Members b.. 18New Photos Visit Your Group Group Charity One Economy Helping close the digital divide Dog Zone on Yahoo! Groups Join a Group all about dogs. Weight Loss Group on Yahoo! Groups Get support and make friends online. . __,_._,___ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 12 08:53:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 07:53:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wow! My hubs are really stuck! In-Reply-To: References: <20090212063029.NONY17503.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <052c01c98d2a$1f27ba90$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Randall babbled : > Yet another option is to box up the halfshafts with the hubs & bearings > still attached, and ship them off to someone like Mike Macy Chuck White replied: > should be "Mark" Macy @ mark at macysgarage.com> Oops! Yes, of course. Mike Macy is someone else entirely. My apologies to all, especially Mark. As my late wife used to say, I'm gonna like it in the home! Mark's website is at http://www.macysgarage.com/ Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 12 10:24:42 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:24:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] Thank you Justin Message-ID: <055c01c98d36$cb7a4c70$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Just wanted to say a public Thank You to Justin Wagner for his tech tip at http://www.jmwagnersales.com/fpit.html I rebuilt the original fuel pump on my 56 TR3 last night, and the 1/4" drive U-joint socket worked a treat for doing the R&R. I did use a longer extension though, about 2.5", to clear the road draft tube. The socket & extension (without the ratchet) even worked very well to reinstall the rear nut. (After pushing the pump onto place and putting the oil line tab and lock washer onto the stud with needle-nose pliers). I've done the job before with a 1/2" stubby GearWrench, but Justin's method is much easier. Thanks again, Justin. BTW, after the install, I opened the fuel tap (also rebuilt with a chunk of fuel line instead of cork), dumped a few quarts of petrol in the tank, pumped up some fuel pressure, pulled the choke and hit the starter button. Found a few other items I had forgotten to tend to, like tightening the fuel fittings at the carbs, but it ran! With any luck, I'm going to drive it this weekend! Of course I should probably put a windshield on first ... the interior can wait until later. Randall From peterschop at aol.com Thu Feb 12 11:54:03 2009 From: peterschop at aol.com (peterschop at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:54:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] looking for Marc Goldblatt Message-ID: <8CB5B5A6877E46C-12AC-11C5@WEBMAIL-MC15.sysops.aol.com> I ordered? a sealing block for my six from Marc Goldblatt's web site early last week. I tried to contact him through the email address on his web site but have not received a?reply yet. I'm at a stand still on my project until I can put the sealing block in the engine. Does anyone know how to contact him, maybe a different email address or a phone number? The address I have is goldblma at optonline.net. Thanks, Peter Schoppelry From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Feb 12 12:35:44 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 14:35:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] looking for Marc Goldblatt In-Reply-To: <8CB5B5A6877E46C-12AC-11C5@WEBMAIL-MC15.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB5B5A6877E46C-12AC-11C5@WEBMAIL-MC15.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Peter, Here's his main company information (http://www.imaconstruction.com/) with a phone number. When I ordered mine back in the fall he was very responsive and told me that it would be a few weeks as he had to do a new production run. He even offered to credit my Paypal if I didn't want to wait. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of peterschop at aol.com Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 1:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] looking for Marc Goldblatt I ordered? a sealing block for my six from Marc Goldblatt's web site early last week. I tried to contact him through the email address on his web site but have not received a?reply yet. I'm at a stand still on my project until I can put the sealing block in the engine. Does anyone know how to contact him, maybe a different email address or a phone number? The address I have is goldblma at optonline.net. Thanks, Peter Schoppelry 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Feb 12 17:55:06 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 19:55:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Fw: [Morris] Fw: Motorhead 101 - Unique Metal Shop Group Use Opportunity Message-ID: <14808083.1234486507231.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FABRICATORS o ENGINEERS o METAL ARTISTS o ADVANCED HOBBYISTS IN THE SAN FRANCISCO/SAN JOSE, CALIFORNIA BAY AREA o Not enough room at home to build that special project? o Got the savvy and experience but not the proper tools? INTRODUCING : THE METAL SHOP The South Bay Do-It-Yourself Metal shop A unique new way to do projects that require more than a "home shop" could ever provide in a reasonable time share, club-like atmosphere in the South Bay. Easy freeway access . This is a fully equipped heated metalworking shop space that artists, and metalworking enthusiasts can utilize on a monthly basis with 24 hour, 7 day per week access. OPEN HOUSE INVITATION Saturday, February 14th o 10:00AM - 3:00PM Sunday, February 15th o 10:00AM - 3:00PM Come by and see the shop space, and the tools - Refreshments will be served Meet the people you could be working with. The Metal Shop 184B Morris Lane, Campbell, CA 95008 408-395-3783 evenings ask for Bob www.themetalshop.org We are ready to start operation and accept monthly memberships. o What tools are provided in the shop? The shop has a Bridgeport Milling machine with digital readout, 16"x40" metal lathe, machine tooling and measuring tools, drill presses, TIG welding. MIG welding, Oxyacetylene, compressed air, hand and power tools, and moreb&. o Can I use "The Metalshop" anytime? Yes, 24 hours a day 7 days a week during your paid up month. o How many people will use the shop and what does it cost to sign up? The shop is being offered to the first 10 members, each paying $250 per month. Rent for each month will be due on the last Saturday of the previous month. For users that consume excessive amounts of electricity, and consumables like welding gas there will be an additional charge. o About Bob, The shop Director: Bob Seinfeld has previously taught metalworking and welding for more than thirty years. Additional skill sets involve building electric cars for the highway, and mentoring high school robotics teams that participate in the US FIRST Robotics program. DON'T MISS OUT ON THIS UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY - CHECK IT OUT Look at the web site www.themetalshop.org RSVP to joyce at joycesteinfeld.com or 408-395-3783 From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Feb 12 18:47:26 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 20:47:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] All the shafts that's fit to spin Message-ID: <49948ADE.6379.1B0D69C3@localhost> A short while ago I got the internals of my gearbox back together. Main shaft, input shaft, laygear and layshaft, all the thrust washers, and even reverse. Dale, thank you for the help. Thanks too to whoever suggested standing the gearbox on end to get the layshaft in. Great tip! I'd put the laygear in the box with a wooden dowel inside it to hold the needle bearings in place. (MEMO TO SELF AND OTHERS: Next time cut the dowel longer, just long enough to fit in the case instead of fitting totally inside the gear. That way it will hold the thrust washers more or less lined up too.) Anyway, I balanced the gearbox on the input shaft and lined up the rear thrust washer and laygear end by working though the reverse access hole. Then I stuck the remaining 30" of dowel into the case to hold that washer, and turned the gearbox over and balanced it on the dowel. Lifting the box slightly unloaded the front thrust washer so I could pry it back into alignment. When it and the laygear were lined up with the hole the long dowel pushed the shorter one out and held everything nicely in place. All that remained was to lay the box on its side and push the layshaft through. Slick as a whistle. It took all of 90 seconds. What fun! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jhassall at blacksburg.net Thu Feb 12 19:12:43 2009 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 21:12:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wow! My hubs are really stuck! In-Reply-To: <4993A16B.8090308@comcast.net> References: <20081123120210.RTBT4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> <4993A16B.8090308@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0KEZ00GH0FD7NC61@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> At 11:11 PM 2/11/2009, Michael Lang wrote: >I have now tried all sorts of things to get the hubs off of my TR3 axles. Mike, find a local shop that works on trucks. I took my axle assemblies to my local friendly truck shop, where they were set up to do work like that. Their 100T press didn't break a sweat, but I sure did when the hubs popped loose. They made one hell of a bang (ok, 2 bangs). There's no chance that the special Churchill tool could have handled it. And it is critical to support the hub all the way around else it'll bend (don't ask....) jim -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 96% finished, 90% to go From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Feb 12 20:50:22 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 19:50:22 -0800 Subject: [TR] The secret to getting hubs apart? - It's BEER!!! Message-ID: <4994EDFE.4030606@comcast.net> Actually I think the key is the combination of heat and patience. I read everyones responses and decided to go take another shot at it. I used a hybrid of my available tools and Skip's suggestion. I put one of them back in my 10 Ton press and applied all of the pressure that I could. I heated it evenly with the torch, but not to the point that it was glowing. I then left it for a little bit. After a few minutes, it popped apart. I did the same thing with the second one and it also came apart. The first time I tried, I gave up and released the pressure once I had reached the limit of how much I was willing to heat it. This time, I left the pressure applied and allowed the heat some time to soak in. Thanks for all of the suggestions! Mike From jeremiah at curryclan.net Fri Feb 13 08:15:11 2009 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 08:15:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test Message-ID: <5D909BED0E8B4070BFE3E8F5B372C06B@den> Howdy all, I was trying to figure out why my brake lights don't work today and I noticed that one of the wires that goes to the switch wasn't attached. Hoping it was simple I re-attached the wire, but the light still doesn't work. Since the car has been in storage since 1969 I don't know when they last worked. I tried measuring the resistance across the terminals and found none without the brakes on. I would expect resistance when the brakes are off and none when the pedal is depressed. Is that correct? If so, I guess I need a new switch. Thanks, Jeremiah From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 08:32:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 07:32:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test In-Reply-To: <5D909BED0E8B4070BFE3E8F5B372C06B@den> Message-ID: <20090213153251.UTOE21761.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > I would expect resistance > when the brakes are off and none when the pedal is depressed. > Is that correct? Need to be careful about terms here. An open circuit (switch open, brakes off) is infinite ohms, so many digital meters present no reading at all, or a symbol like -E-. A closed circuit (switch closed, brakes applied) should be zero ohms, but many digital meters will read slightly high at the bottom end, so a displayed value like 0.5 or 0.8 is common. And of course making a poor connection with the meter probes can cause almost any value to be displayed. Also, if the switch were at zero ohms ("no resistance"), you would expect the brake lights to be on all the time, rather than not working at all. I would suggest getting the wiring issues sorted out first, and then revisit the switch issue. My experience is that they usually fail open, rather than closed. With the key on, you should be able to make the brake lights come on by shorting across the switch terminals with a knife blade or length of wire. Randall From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Feb 13 08:33:15 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:33:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test In-Reply-To: <5D909BED0E8B4070BFE3E8F5B372C06B@den> References: <5D909BED0E8B4070BFE3E8F5B372C06B@den> Message-ID: <8CB5C0785E349DA-760-356D@WEBMAIL-MZ23.sysops.aol.com> Jeremiah, I would try bypassing the switch first, just to verify that everything else was working.? Maybe the problem isnt the switch.? Why buy parts you dont need.? I know I have never done that. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Jeremiah Curry To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:15 am Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test Howdy all, I was trying to figure out why my brake lights don't work today and I noticed that one of the wires that goes to the switch wasn't attached. Hoping it was simple I re-attached the wire, but the light still doesn't work. Since the car has been in storage since 1969 I don't know when they last worked. I tried measuring the resistance across the terminals and found none without the brakes on. I would expect resistance when the brakes are off and none when the pedal is depressed. Is that correct? If so, I guess I need a new switch. Thanks, Jeremiah From pryner at verizon.net Fri Feb 13 08:34:29 2009 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 10:34:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test In-Reply-To: <5D909BED0E8B4070BFE3E8F5B372C06B@den> References: <5D909BED0E8B4070BFE3E8F5B372C06B@den> Message-ID: I would use continuity rather than resistance. There should be no continuity with the switch off and full with it on. Use the ohm meter to test. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremiah Curry" To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 10:15 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test > Howdy all, > > > > I was trying to figure out why my brake lights don't work today and I > noticed that one of the wires that goes to the switch wasn't attached. > Hoping it was simple I re-attached the wire, but the light still doesn't > work. Since the car has been in storage since 1969 I don't know when they > last worked. > > > > I tried measuring the resistance across the terminals and found none > without > the brakes on. I would expect resistance when the brakes are off and none > when the pedal is depressed. Is that correct? If so, I guess I need a > new > switch. > > > > Thanks, > > Jeremiah > _______________________________________________ From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Feb 13 09:37:57 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 11:37:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test References: <5D909BED0E8B4070BFE3E8F5B372C06B@den> Message-ID: Check for power across the fuse(s) I've had that problem in the past - corrosion at the fuse buss. Good luck. Tom 60 TR3A - that I should be working on now 61 TR3A that's so much fun, I don't do much else 62 TR4 73 Stag I was trying to figure out why my brake lights don't work today and I > noticed that one of the wires that goes to the switch wasn't attached. > Hoping it was simple I re-attached the wire, but the light still doesn't > work. Since the car has been in storage since 1969 I don't know when they > last worked. From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Fri Feb 13 15:09:19 2009 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 17:09:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] Proper oil for TR4 Gearbox Message-ID: <20090213220919.PKH5W.7322.root@hrndva-web23-z02> I'm currently using heavy hypoid oil in my TR4 gearbox, which is fitted with overdrive. I've read that a lighter oil should be used, that the syncromesh gears don't like the heavy stuff. However, I've been running this oil for a number of years, and the gearbox shows no signs of problems. Is this a case of "if it's not broke, don't fix it"? What are recommendations of proper viscosity. I don't have the workshop manual in front of me, but I'll bet it calls for the heavy oil. Thanks, Paul From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Fri Feb 13 15:13:18 2009 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 17:13:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter Message-ID: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> I'm looking for the Fram# or other manufacturer for spin on oil filter for TR4. I have a purolater installed now, but I'm trying to diagnose a drop in oil pressure problem. I know one possible explanation would be worn bearings. However, before I go that route, I want to look at other possibilities. I've read that the spin on filter must be a certain type, with an internal relief valve. Moss sells a Fram, but if I can pick it up locally, it would be easier. Thanks, Paul From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Feb 13 15:25:50 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 16:25:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter References: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> Message-ID: It may depend on your adapter. Mine uses an AC PF-34 or a Wix (NAPA) 1034. I wouldn't use a Fram except in an enemy's car. Lots of failure reports over the years, and they end up at the back of the pack whenever there's a filter test. Cut a Fram apart, and also a Wix - it's an informative exercise. Karl > I'm looking for the Fram# or other manufacturer for spin on oil filter for > TR4. I have a purolater installed now, but I'm trying to diagnose a drop > in oil pressure problem. I know one possible explanation would be worn > bearings. However, before I go that route, I want to look at other > possibilities. I've read that the spin on filter must be a certain type, > with an internal relief valve. Moss sells a Fram, but if I can pick it up > locally, it would be easier. > > Thanks, > Paul > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as kvacek at ameritech.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 15:38:19 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 14:38:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter In-Reply-To: References: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> Message-ID: <070b01c98e2b$c589a540$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > and they end up at the back of the pack whenever there's a > filter test. Got any examples of that, Karl? I've seen lots of tests where people just look at the insides and pronounce them junk; but the only tests I've seen where actual filtering ability was measured put them solidly in the middle of the pack. And I've personally been using Fram oil filters for well over 1/2 million miles, with no problems that I attributed to the filter. Current grocery-getter has some 220,000 miles on the clock, never even had the rocker covers off, wears a Fram. Previous one went 250,000 miles before I junked it and wore Fram filters from it's very first oil change. TRs wear them too, although apparently Fram doesn't make cartridges for the Stag. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 13 15:39:17 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 17:39:17 EST Subject: [TR] Proper oil for TR4 Gearbox Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 5:11:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, pbrandsema at triad.rr.com writes: I don't have the workshop manual in front of me, but I'll bet it calls for the heavy oil. Correct. 90W GL-4 is the stuff. Many who are far more knowledgeable than I highly recommend the 30W Non Detergent. Apprently the detergent oils foam a bit. I put 30W ND in my newly rebuilt tranny and OD and as is my habit I change oil within the first few hundred miles on anything rebuilt. When I drained the 30W is ran far too thin for my liking so I went back to 90W. I live in FL and it is hot so my oil situation may be different than someone who lives in cooler climates. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. AOL Music takes you there. (http://music.aol.com/grammys?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000004) From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Fri Feb 13 15:49:10 2009 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 16:49:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> References: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> Message-ID: Fram PH3600, Motorocraft FL-400s, Wix 51516, K&N HP-2009 Ask for an oil filter for a 1995 Ford Escort with 1.9 L engine. This filter is commonly used on smaller Ford engines (and probably others). Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 4:13 PM Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter > I'm looking for the Fram# or other manufacturer for spin on oil filter for > TR4. I have a purolater installed now, but I'm trying to diagnose a drop > in oil pressure problem. I know one possible explanation would be worn > bearings. However, before I go that route, I want to look at other > possibilities. I've read that the spin on filter must be a certain type, > with an internal relief valve. Moss sells a Fram, but if I can pick it up > locally, it would be easier. > > Thanks, > Paul From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 15:53:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 14:53:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> References: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> Message-ID: <070c01c98e2d$d3511a30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm looking for the Fram# or other manufacturer for spin on oil filter for > TR4. The list I have is: A/C Delco PFL400A Purolator Pure-One PL20195 Mobil 1 M1209, Motorcraft FL400S, A.C. Delco PF56 FRAM PH3600 Motorcraft FL400 Purolator L20195 Wix 51516 NAPA 1516 Hastings LF134,135 Amsoil ASF34 > I've read that the spin on filter must be a certain type, > with an internal relief valve. I don't see how that could possibly be a requirement. The bypass and relief valves are built into the original filter head, and remain functional with the spin-on adapter. It's also worth noting that the pickup point for the pressure gauge is before the filter, so that if either the relief valve or the bypass valve opened, it would actually reduce the pressure reading. Are you sure you didn't read that it should NOT have a bypass valve? An anti-drainback valve might possibly allow slightly faster oil pressure buildup at engine startup; but since the filter is angled downward, the effect will be small (if any). The original filter setup had no anti-drainback valve. And if anything, the anti-drainback would reduce pressure in the galleries while the engine is running, since it takes some small pressure to push it open. Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Feb 13 16:08:13 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 23:08:13 -0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter References: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> <070c01c98e2d$d3511a30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <9109B6C13EFC420DA2A52F07252B229D@Bevan> Randall wrote: > Are you sure you didn't read that it should NOT have a bypass valve? > An anti-drainback valve might possibly allow slightly faster oil pressure > buildup at engine startup; but since the filter is angled downward, the > effect will be small (if any). The original filter setup had no > anti-drainback valve. And if anything, the anti-drainback would reduce > pressure in the galleries while the engine is running, since it takes some > small pressure to push it open. My sentiments entirely. This also extends to the (IMHO) entirely useless additional oil feed to the rocker shaft - unless of course racing people prefer that for their particular purposes. Jonmac From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Feb 13 16:11:36 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 17:11:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter References: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02> <070b01c98e2b$c589a540$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <56718D4C50474410A80F2F00CA427613@KARL> Randall, if you're convinced Fram is a great filter, then I don't know if this will mean anything to you. These are from the first page I got when I Googled "oil filter test comparison". There are pages and pages of links to tests. I got tired of looking. http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/1080/oilfiltertech.html http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=15753949 This is a video with several filters dissected - Fram is next to last. Some of the tenst mentioned a Fram X2 or Fram Toughguard as being OK, simultaneously mentioning reservations about other Fram filters. I've seen this same sort of comment for many years. I used to work for Allied Signal, Fram's parent, and used Frams myself till I began reading tests. Then I cut some apart myself, and I've never bought one of those orange boxes again. Karl. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 4:38 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter >> and they end up at the back of the pack whenever there's a >> filter test. > > Got any examples of that, Karl? I've seen lots of tests where people just > look at the insides and pronounce them junk; but the only tests I've seen > where actual filtering ability was measured put them solidly in the middle > of the pack. > > And I've personally been using Fram oil filters for well over 1/2 million > miles, with no problems that I attributed to the filter. Current > grocery-getter has some 220,000 miles on the clock, never even had the > rocker covers off, wears a Fram. Previous one went 250,000 miles before I > junked it and wore Fram filters from it's very first oil change. > > TRs wear them too, although apparently Fram doesn't make cartridges for > the > Stag. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as kvacek at ameritech.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 16:37:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 15:37:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <56718D4C50474410A80F2F00CA427613@KARL> References: <20090213221318.VZ3P5.7350.root@hrndva-web23-z02><070b01c98e2b$c589a540$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <56718D4C50474410A80F2F00CA427613@KARL> Message-ID: <073201c98e33$f8fe9540$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Randall, if you're convinced Fram is a great filter, I never said it was a "great" filter. The exact phrase I used was "middle of the road". And I'm quite willing to be convinced otherwise, IF anyone can show an actual performance test where the Fram was lacking. So far, no one has. > There are pages and pages of links to > tests. I got tired of looking. But, every single link you supplied is of the "I cut the filter apart and didn't like what I saw". Only one page even talks about performance testing, and fails to give any performance results for Fram. My point is that you cannot tell how well a filter element performs by looking at it with the naked eye. It's like saying which car is faster by how big the exhaust pipe is. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Feb 13 16:54:21 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:54:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> I seem to recall that you shouldn't use an opened container of brake fluif because there may be water in it from condensation. The bottle I have was first opened about a year ago. Fact or old wife's tale? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Feb 13 17:09:12 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:09:12 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 6:54:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Fact or old wife's tale? Not sure about that Bob, But a related subject on silicone type brake fluif that comes to mind for me is that I am in the habit of shaking that bottle of fluif just to get it mixed up good. I can't help myself, just seems like a natural thing to do as soon as the bottle reaches my hand. Then when I pour that fluif , I see these tiny little bubbles all over within the fluif, is that a bad thing? Darrell **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 17:12:44 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 16:12:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] Using Opened Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> References: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <074901c98e38$f5d4da50$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I seem to recall that you shouldn't use an opened container of brake fluif > because there may be water in it from condensation. The bottle I have was > first opened about a year ago. Fact or old wife's tale? Fact, although not quite as stated. Conventional (non-DOT 5) brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it will act like a desiccant and actually suck water from the air. No condensation required. The "wet" fluid is both more likely to boil inside the brakes (giving you instantly no braking at all), and more corrosive to brake components (especially rear wheel cylinders on a TR, with steel piston against an aluminum bore). This process continues with the fluid in the car, which is why it should be completely replaced, from a freshly opened container, every 2-3 years. Note that this process will also continue until the fluid contains far more water than the amount used for the "wet" boiling point given in the DOT specifications. In a paper presented to the SAE, they claimed the average water content in the 3 year old cars they tested was 7.5%; while the "wet" boiling point is given with 0.5% water. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Fri Feb 13 17:13:14 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 17:13:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Darrell, It is definitely not recommended to shake up DOT 5. While the bubbles will rise to the top and dissipate if left to settle, if you drive it right away, you will force them into the lines and that is not a good thing. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 5:09 PM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif In a message dated 2/13/2009 6:54:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Fact or old wife's tale? Not sure about that Bob, But a related subject on silicone type brake fluif that comes to mind for me is that I am in the habit of shaking that bottle of fluif just to get it mixed up good. I can't help myself, just seems like a natural thing to do as soon as the bottle reaches my hand. Then when I pour that fluif , I see these tiny little bubbles all over within the fluif, is that a bad thing? Darrell **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 17:16:27 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 16:16:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <074a01c98e39$7b396990$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Then when I pour that fluif , I see > these > tiny little bubbles all over within the fluif, is that a bad thing? Yeah, kind of But if you wait a bit before doing anything else (like continuing to bleed the brakes or even using them), the bubbles will eventually rise to the top and escape. Good time to go find a cold one; or tend to a honey-dew. Randall From jeremiah at curryclan.net Fri Feb 13 17:52:50 2009 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 17:52:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test In-Reply-To: <5BA506C2BBC14533829492A607E1A115@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <35F1A1E5650447259541291802DC5269@screamer> Thanks everyone for your help. What fuse would I check? I am not sure how the fuses work on this car. There are two mounted vertically (one end sticking into the car) and two mounted horizontally. Do the ones mounted vertically do something? All my fuses seem good and the horn, rear running lights, windshield wiper, heater blower, radio, starter, and dash lights all work. I haven't tried anything on the front clip as it is not attached. Thanks, Jeremiah -----Original Message----- From: THOMAS FANSHER [mailto:tfansher at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 9:35 AM To: jeremiah at curryclan.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test a bad connection at the fuse box will cause this,too. That's an easy check. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremiah Curry" To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 10:15 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test > Howdy all, > > > > I was trying to figure out why my brake lights don't work today and I > noticed that one of the wires that goes to the switch wasn't attached. > Hoping it was simple I re-attached the wire, but the light still > doesn't work. Since the car has been in storage since 1969 I don't > know when they last worked. > > > > I tried measuring the resistance across the terminals and found none > without > the brakes on. I would expect resistance when the brakes are off and none > when the pedal is depressed. Is that correct? If so, I guess I need a > new > switch. > > > > Thanks, > > Jeremiah > _______________________________________________ From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Feb 13 18:08:12 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 01:08:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <073201c98e33$f8fe9540$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <746903105.3178581234573692670.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >My point is that you cannot tell how well a filter element performs by >looking at it with the naked eye. B It's like saying which car is faster by >how big the exhaust pipe is. I don't pretend to be knowledgable enough to enter the debate, but I do have a question about all this. When I first investigated oil filters so as to make an informed decision about brand, the thing that caught my eye during research was "porosity."B That is, of course, how many microns wide the holes were that allowed passage of oil and trapping of particulates. The stuff I read came to the conclusion that WIX (NAPA) had smaller holes that allowed greater trapping of particles.B In theory, this seemed to my (admittedly untutored) judgment, that fewer particles would make it through the filter to abrade metal surfaces.B What would follow, it seemed to me, would be longer engine lifeB (...at least when combined with high quality synthetic oils that have perfectly round and same-sized molecules so as to enhance friction reduction).B Your experience may vary and all that.B But I have 155,000 miles on my Tacoma, change oil twice a year, fall and spring, and it doesn't burn a drop between changes. So question:B how important is the filter as a variable, since Randall and others can also reportB high milage cars with FRAM filters?B Since I know he also uses high quality Valvoline multi-viscosityB (ehr, don't you Randall, or do I need more Vitamen B12 for memory?), maybe filters don't mean as much as quality oil.B All I can say is, with a small micrometer porosity filter, and highest quality oil, I only change oil every 6 months and get extended engine life on all my vehicles. Okay, come get me.B I was, after all, only an English major! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Feb 13 18:19:32 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:19:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Proper oil for TR4 Gearbox In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0902131719i2f0e5bd0g25ebea772496b0f1@mail.gmail.com> Though I think the weight difference is small -- isn't 90W gear oil about the same viscosity as 40W motor oil? Geo On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 3:39 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 2/13/2009 5:11:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > ...When I drained the 30W is ran far too thin for my liking so I went back > to 90W. From ambritts at bellsouth.net Fri Feb 13 18:22:00 2009 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 20:22:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter References: <746903105.3178581234573692670.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <008001c98e42$a3d48750$6401a8c0@STATION6> Bought my Jeep with 112,000 miles on it. It was 2 years old with recorded oil changes every 3,000 miles. I use Wal-Mart filters and oil. Change oil every 5,000-7,000 miles. The first engine went to 255,000 miles. Lost the cam. Second engine (used) had 55,000 miles when installed. The car now has 440,000 miles on it. Same Wal-Mart filters and oil. Does not leak a drop of oil, excellent oil pressure. I did read a study that their filters perform very well as well as their oil. (for modern cars) Alex Manzo 59 TR3A with high end everything 72 TR 6 """" """" """" 95 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Wal-Mart Mart Special ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 8:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter > >My point is that you cannot tell how well a filter element performs by >>looking at it with the naked eye. B It's like saying which car is faster >>by >>how big the exhaust pipe is. > > I don't pretend to be knowledgable enough to enter the debate, but I do > have a > question about all this. > > > > When I first investigated oil filters so as to make an informed decision > about > brand, the thing that caught my eye during research was "porosity."B That > is, > of course, how many microns wide the holes were that allowed passage of > oil > and trapping of particulates. > > > > The stuff I read came to the conclusion that WIX (NAPA) had smaller holes > that > allowed greater trapping of particles.B In theory, this seemed to my > (admittedly untutored) judgment, that fewer particles would make it > through > the filter to abrade metal surfaces.B What would follow, it seemed to me, > would be longer engine lifeB (...at least when combined with high quality > synthetic oils that have perfectly round and same-sized molecules so as to > enhance friction reduction).B > > > > Your experience may vary and all that.B But I have 155,000 miles on my > Tacoma, change oil twice a year, fall and spring, and it doesn't burn a > drop > between changes. > > > > So question:B how important is the filter as a variable, since Randall > and > others can also reportB high milage cars with FRAM filters?B Since I > know he > also uses high quality Valvoline multi-viscosityB (ehr, don't you > Randall, or > do I need more Vitamen B12 for memory?), maybe filters don't mean as much > as > quality oil.B > > > > All I can say is, with a small micrometer porosity filter, and highest > quality > oil, I only change oil every 6 months and get extended engine life on all > my > vehicles. > > > > Okay, come get me.B I was, after all, only an English major! > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Feb 13 18:31:05 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:31:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test In-Reply-To: <35F1A1E5650447259541291802DC5269@screamer> References: <5BA506C2BBC14533829492A607E1A115@DCS78M81> <35F1A1E5650447259541291802DC5269@screamer> Message-ID: <7bb181af0902131731g25b49cc8r45f6da39898d8ae4@mail.gmail.com> If you said what type of TR this is I missed it... but the 2 fuses you see 'vertically' are your spares and the other 2 are for real. Since you mention a 'front clip'... on a TR3 one fuse is for the horns and the other (green wire) is for assorted instruments and other stuff behind the dash. I do not recall the brakes being fused on a '3 but didn't seek out a wiring diagram to confirm that. Geo On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 5:52 PM, Jeremiah Curry wrote: > Thanks everyone for your help. > > What fuse would I check? I am not sure how the fuses work on this car. > There are two mounted vertically (one end sticking into the car) and two > mounted horizontally. Do the ones mounted vertically do something? All my > fuses seem good and the horn, rear running lights, windshield wiper, heater > blower, radio, starter, and dash lights all work. I haven't tried anything > on the front clip as it is not attached. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Feb 13 18:42:55 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:42:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <008001c98e42$a3d48750$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <746903105.3178581234573692670.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <008001c98e42$a3d48750$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <7bb181af0902131742l7de6d99fr4e30d71e633210ae@mail.gmail.com> FWIW I have used a Fram PH2870 or equivalent for the 15 years or so that I have used the spin-on adaptor. Used that just because it was the same size as used on 2 other cars I had at the time. Sometimes it is easier to find than PH3600, sometimes not. From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Feb 13 18:43:07 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 20:43:07 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 7:52:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, trsix74 at comcast.net writes: In my opinion yes. Reason, you are adding air to the fluid. (Haven't any high test beverage yet, I can still say it properly.) Just to put any debate to rest, yes I agree, it is a bad thing to shake that bottle of silicone brake fluif, and to tell the truth High Test Crown Royal Manhattans are now in effect. The point is, no matter what, once that bottle crosses the palms of one's hand, it just seems natural the shake it up, see how much is left, then go on to pour. Oh shoot, now I have to wait till those bubbles settle. Darrell **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Feb 13 18:46:13 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:46:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0902131731g25b49cc8r45f6da39898d8ae4@mail.gmail.com> References: <5BA506C2BBC14533829492A607E1A115@DCS78M81> <35F1A1E5650447259541291802DC5269@screamer> <7bb181af0902131731g25b49cc8r45f6da39898d8ae4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0902131746i5e8edd96jdb0c91d7a09a79db@mail.gmail.com> Ahhh - cleverly hidden in the subject line. Oops! Okay, I'll add a vote for test by connecting the 2 wires at the switch. Those pressure switches are notoriously finicky, also the connections (at least the screw connections on mine) can be fussy and really want to be clean and tight to work properly. Geo On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 6:31 PM, Geo Hahn wrote: > If you said what type of TR this is I missed it... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 19:01:34 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:01:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Proper oil for TR4 Gearbox In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0902131719i2f0e5bd0g25ebea772496b0f1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20090214020134.HPFO18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Though I think the weight difference is small -- isn't 90W > gear oil about the same viscosity as 40W motor oil? Approximately, yes. TR4 owners handbook calls for 90 weight GL4 above 30F; 80 weight below 30F. I've been running Valvoline VR-1 20W50 motor oil in the gearbox Herman van den Akker rebuilt for me (TR6 gearbox, TR4 OD, TR3 top cover), because that is what he recommended. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 19:26:00 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:26:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Spin On Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <746903105.3178581234573692670.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090214022600.DITC4162.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > In theory, this seemed to my (admittedly untutored) judgment, > that fewer particles would make it through the filter to > abrade metal surfaces.B Well, I can't claim to be an authority either, but the picture seems much more complicated than that to me. From what I've read, particles that are small enough cause much less wear than larger particles, so there's really no point in worrying about them. And the kicker is that bypass valve that opens when the filter media becomes clogged ... seems likely that smaller holes would make it easier to clog. In fact, at some point, the small holes will restrict flow so much that the bypass will open even with a clean filter. And even below that point, it's still restricting flow into the engine. So as with so many other things in engineering, there are many tradeoffs to be made and not necessarily a consensus on the 'right' value for each tradeoff. > Since I know he also uses high quality > Valvoline multi-viscosityB Yes, I do. Had some bad experiences with other oils. > maybe filters don't mean > as much as quality oil.B Could be. Up until the 50s, many auto makers were claiming that oil filters did not add significantly to engine life (which may have been more of a statement about the filters available then). The oil filter was optional on my first Chevy. And early TRs used a wool felt filter configured as a bypass ... filtered oil was dumped back into the crankcase and the galleries got oil directly from the pump. There was an interesting modification being sold back in the 70s; that bragged you never needed to change oil again. It used toilet paper as the filter element in a bypass type filter. Friend of mine had one on his Buick; and it did seem to perform as advertised. His oil stayed visibly clean and golden for several years; and his 455 engine showed no signs of distress. But eventually he got tired of having to change the TP every 1000 miles (and add a quart of oil), so he went back to the stock filter. Randall From mathews at uga.edu Fri Feb 13 19:42:26 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 21:42:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fram Filters Message-ID: <49962F92.1060806@uga.edu> My 91 Nissan PU had 233k miles when I overhauled the engine and it had Frams in it every 3k miles.. Not because it had a problem, but I needed a project for my tech school. When I tore everything down it was clean inside and the machine shop said the crank was still standard and all they did was polish it.Bearing looked good too,but of course I replaced them. Just my experience with Fram. Doug From hdrider570 at att.net Fri Feb 13 19:42:54 2009 From: hdrider570 at att.net (hdrider570 at att.net) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:42:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] drop in oil pressure problem References: Message-ID: The first thing I would check is the oil pressure relief valve spring. I have seen a number of them that have thinned sections from years of rubbing against the bore that they are situated in, not to mention detempered from heat, and softened by being compressed for 35 to 50 years.. New springs are cheap and easy to replace. I never put an old one back. Edward Hamer Petaluma Ca From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 13 19:43:42 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:43:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test In-Reply-To: <35F1A1E5650447259541291802DC5269@screamer> Message-ID: <20090214024342.DPZX4162.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Do the ones mounted > vertically do something? Nope, just spares for the "horizontal" ones. One "horizontal" fuse is only for the horns. The other one is for nearly everything that only works with the ignition switch on (except the ignition coil itself and the generator warning lamp on the dash). That includes the brake lights. If you look at the fuse block, it has 5 terminals with wires. 4 of the terminals are at the ends of the "horizontal" fuses, while the 5th terminal is off to the side. The fuse next to the 5th terminal is the one for the brake lights, wipers, heater, turn signals, and fuel gauge. BTW, there is also a jumper hidden under all those wires, that connects the 5th terminal to the 4th terminal. It can break. Also BTW, depending on the vintage of your TR3, there may be another fuse located in an in-line holder, clipped to the bottom edge of the dash (above the gear shift and behind the dash). If so, it controls the dash lights and rear tail lights (not the brake lights). I believe Bill Piggott wrote that it came in around TS42000, only for US-spec cars; but TS39781LO had it (and it looked original). As long as we are talking about fuses, be aware that the old Lucas fuses used a different rating system than modern American fuses do. If you want to use American fuses, an AGC 20 or SFE 20 makes an adequate substitute for the 35 and/or 50 amps fuses specified in the Triumph documentation. A 35 or 50 amp American fuse won't protect the wires. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Feb 13 19:54:27 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 21:54:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test References: <35F1A1E5650447259541291802DC5269@screamer> Message-ID: After a few beers at dinner -- here goes. The green wires off the "fuse box" (after all there are only two) goes to the brake light switch on the TR3A and B.... if this is an earlier car I'm not sure. Anyway, it's not the brown wire side. I could just turn the fuse around a couple of times, or remove the fuse and scuff it with sandpaper and all would be good. Not saying it WILL work, just something to check.... Have a great weekend Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremiah Curry" To: "'THOMAS FANSHER'" ; Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:52 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test Thanks everyone for your help. What fuse would I check? I am not sure how the fuses work on this car. There are two mounted vertically (one end sticking into the car) and two mounted horizontally. Do the ones mounted vertically do something? All my fuses seem good and the horn, rear running lights, windshield wiper, heater blower, radio, starter, and dash lights all work. I haven't tried anything on the front clip as it is not attached. Thanks, Jeremiah -----Original Message----- From: THOMAS FANSHER [mailto:tfansher at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 9:35 AM To: jeremiah at curryclan.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test a bad connection at the fuse box will cause this,too. That's an easy check. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremiah Curry" To: Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 10:15 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test From tfansher at comcast.net Fri Feb 13 19:55:07 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 21:55:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test References: <35F1A1E5650447259541291802DC5269@screamer> Message-ID: <34D58772BEAF4550912C72E284E3C542@DCS78M81> Just went and looked, it's the inboard fuse.. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeremiah Curry" To: "'THOMAS FANSHER'" ; Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:52 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 brake light switch test Thanks everyone for your help. What fuse would I check? I am not sure how the fuses work on this car. There are two mounted vertically (one end sticking into the car) and two mounted horizontally. Do the ones mounted vertically do something? All my fuses seem good and the horn, rear running lights, windshield wiper, heater blower, radio, starter, and dash lights all work. I haven't tried anything on the front clip as it is not attached. Thanks, Jeremiah -----Original Message----- From: THOMAS FANSHER [ From pethier at comcast.net Fri Feb 13 20:09:19 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 03:09:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Proper oil for TR4 Gearbox In-Reply-To: <20090213220919.PKH5W.7322.root@hrndva-web23-z02> Message-ID: <1193923641.1248811234580959927.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- pbrandsema at triad.rr.com wrote: > I'm currently using heavy hypoid oil in my TR4 gearbox, which is > fitted with overdrive. I've read that a lighter oil should be used, > that the syncromesh gears don't like the heavy stuff. I don't think viscosity is the issue. I think it is the sulphur and other evil stuff in hypoid oil which attacks the materials in British synchros. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 13 20:27:49 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 22:27:49 EST Subject: [TR] Proper oil for TR4 Gearbox Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 8:20:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes: Though I think the weight difference is small -- isn't 90W gear oil about the same viscosity as 40W motor oil? May be so, I don't know. When I drain heated 30W it runs MUCH thinner than heated 90W. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy Awards. AOL Music takes you there. (http://music.aol.com/grammys?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000004) From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Fri Feb 13 20:48:39 2009 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:48:39 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Proper oil for TR4 Gearbox Message-ID: <34708.32561.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I've used 90W GL4 gear lube in my '64 TR4 trans (w/ O/D) since 1967, per the factory shop manual. No problems. brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Feb 13 22:45:54 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 00:45:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Trouble finding new studs for my Aluminum Valve Cove Message-ID: Hi List, I bought a really nice aluminum "TriumphTune" valve cover for my TR4A which is nice but I need to find longer studs to mount the thing. The thread on the "head" end is 5/16-18 NC thread and the thread on the "valve cover" end is 5/16-24 NF thread. From the rough measurement I took tonight, I think a length of 4-1/2" would allow for a rubber washer, a flat washer, and a nyloc nut if I use a standard cork valve cover gasket. I did a brief search in McMaster-Carr with no luck. Does anybody know of a place to buy 2 of these? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Sat Feb 14 08:22:24 2009 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 10:22:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Filter Message-ID: <20090214152224.59VPD.11361.root@hrndva-web10-z02> I've received a lot of replies regarding what filters are being used for the TR4. Thanks to everyone. It has also seemed to spark a debate over fiter quality and testing. I always reading those. Anyway, it seems as if I may have misinterpreted the information regarding the need for a filter with an internal relief valve. For those of you with TR6 and TR250, this may ring a bell with you. I went back to the site today. In my haste yesterday I failed to notice the article was for these cars, not the TR4. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/tr6-spinon.shtml DUH!!! However, the info I received on filters was great. I think I'm going to go with the NAPA 1516, since that is supposed to be the same as a WIX, and is readily available. Personally, I've been using FRAMS in my other vehicles (Fords, Isuzus, Mitsubishi, Chevy) for years and have not had problems. Replace filter with oil every 3K miles.. I also received a recommendation to remove the filter head from the block and clean along with the relief valve. I had replaced the spring and ball a couple of years ago, but didn't make a difference. Thanks, Paul From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Feb 14 09:05:22 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 11:05:22 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 6:09:47 PM Central Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Not sure about that Bob, > But a related subject on silicone type brake fluif that comes to mind for > me > is that I am in the habit of shaking that bottle of fluif just to get it > mixed up good. I can't help myself, just seems like a natural thing to do > as > soon as the bottle reaches my hand. Then when I pour that fluif , I see > these > tiny little bubbles all over within the fluif, is that a bad thing? > Depends. If you're Don Ho it may be a good thing. Dave ;-) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Feb 14 09:13:48 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 11:13:48 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 7:44:08 PM Central Standard Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Just to put any debate to rest, yes I agree, it is a bad thing to shake > that > bottle of silicone brake fluif, and to tell the truth High Test Crown Royal > > Manhattans are now in effect. The point is, no matter what, once that > bottle > crosses the palms of one's hand, it just seems natural the shake it up, see > > how much is left, then go on to pour. Oh shoot, now I have to wait till > those > bubbles settle. > Darrell, does this date back to your highschool days and passing beers to your buds? Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Feb 14 09:27:02 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 11:27:02 EST Subject: [TR] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 5:55:05 PM Central Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > I seem to recall that you shouldn't use an opened container of brake fluif > because there may be water in it from condensation. The bottle I have was > first opened about a year ago. Fact or old wife's tale? > I guess the real question here is if one opens a bottle of brake fluid and pours some into the car and replaces the cap, can one use the bottle at some future date? While it is true that the fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb H2O from the air, the process takes time and a brief period of being open and the small amount of air that replaces the amount of fluid that is dispensed do not represent an amount of water that is worth begin concerned about. But if you leave the cap off... Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 14 09:55:12 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 08:55:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Filter In-Reply-To: <20090214152224.59VPD.11361.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Message-ID: <20090214165513.PSWC18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > For those of you with > TR6 and TR250, this may ring a bell with you. That makes sense then. The later cars (including the Stag & TR7) had the original bypass valve incorporated into the canister, so it gets eliminated with the spin-on conversion. Randall From FordneyNJ at aol.com Sat Feb 14 12:11:24 2009 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 14:11:24 EST Subject: [TR] Aluminum valve cover Message-ID: Message: 5 Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 00:45:54 -0500 From: "Dave Connitt" Subject: [TR] Trouble finding new studs for my Aluminum Valve Cove To: "Triumphs" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi List, I bought a really nice aluminum "TriumphTune" valve cover for my TR4A which is nice but I need to find longer studs to mount the thing. The thread on the "head" end is 5/16-18 NC thread and the thread on the "valve cover" end is 5/16-24 NF thread. From the rough measurement I took tonight, I think a length of 4-1/2" would allow for a rubber washer, a flat washer, and a nyloc nut if I use a standard cork valve cover gasket. I did a brief search in McMaster-Carr with no luck. Does anybody know of a place to buy 2 of these? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS _http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a_ (http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a) Dave, On my 4-A, I used a 5/16-18 X 4-1/2 hanger bolt and then was able to use a coarse thread nylock. You could also go with wing nut if you prefer. Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 06536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Feb 14 13:10:59 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 14:10:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Aluminum valve cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090214201138.122BA18764F@autox.team.net> You could buy some round stock and cut to length and thread the ends appropriately, if all else fails. - Tony Drews At 01:11 PM 2/14/2009, FordneyNJ at aol.com wrote: >Hi List, >I bought a really nice aluminum "TriumphTune" valve cover for my TR4A which >is nice but I need to find longer studs to mount the thing. The thread on >the "head" end is 5/16-18 NC thread and the thread on the "valve cover" end >is 5/16-24 NF thread. From the rough measurement I took tonight, I think a >length of 4-1/2" would allow for a rubber washer, a flat washer, and a nyloc >nut if I use a standard cork valve cover gasket. I did a brief search in >McMaster-Carr with no luck. Does anybody know of a place to buy 2 of these? >Thanks, >Dave Connitt >'67 TR4A IRS >_http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a_ (http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a) > > > >Dave, > >On my 4-A, I used a 5/16-18 X 4-1/2 hanger bolt and then was able to use a >coarse thread nylock. You could also go with wing nut if you prefer. > > > >Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ >President, Positive Earth Drivers Club >TR4A IRS CTC 06536 L >TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 > >**************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you >now. >(http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Feb 14 14:45:54 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 16:45:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Using Opened Brake Fluif References: Message-ID: Twelve to thirteen years ago I switched the TR3A to Dot 5 - I bought a gallon and used it and recapped it. I finally used the last of it on the Stag this year. No problems -- and yes the cap was on but it was pretty close to empty for a long time. In very humid Florida. So, just keep it capped. Tom Subject: Re: [TR] Using Opened Brake Fluif >> I guess the real question here is if one opens a bottle of brake fluid >> and > pours some into the car and replaces the cap, can one use the bottle at > some > future date? > > While it is true that the fluid is hygroscopic and will absorb H2O from > the > air, the process takes time and a brief period of being open and the small > amount of air that replaces the amount of fluid that is dispensed do not > represent > an amount of water that is worth begin concerned about. > > But if you leave the cap off... > > Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 14 15:25:53 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 14:25:53 -0800 Subject: [TR] Using Opened Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090214222554.UXML18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Twelve to thirteen years ago I switched the TR3A to Dot 5 DOT 5 is not hygroscopic at all; the whole discussion applies only to the glycol-based fluids (DOT 3, 4 and 5.1). You should still keep it capped to keep the dirt out, but it doesn't get old or wet, in service or in the can. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Feb 14 17:11:39 2009 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 19:11:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Using Opened Brake Fluif References: <20090214222554.UXML18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <2E7DAD21ED8D47C890B08611868CF79A@DCS78M81> Oh, the wrong fluif !!!!! sorry - Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 5:25 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Using Opened Brake Fluif >> Twelve to thirteen years ago I switched the TR3A to Dot 5 > > DOT 5 is not hygroscopic at all; the whole discussion applies only to the > glycol-based fluids (DOT 3, 4 and 5.1). > > You should still keep it capped to keep the dirt out, but it doesn't get > old > or wet, in service or in the can. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Feb 14 20:27:38 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 22:27:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] DIZZY CHANGE Message-ID: <002001c98f1d$5da9c340$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hello! I am rebuilding a '60 TR3, however I've been told that since I've increased the displacement from 1991cc to 2138cc, that I also need to replace the distributor with that from a TR4 (with a slightly different advance curve.) My question is: Will I also be changing distributor caps and rotor button's by changing distributor models? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Feb 15 00:02:55 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 23:02:55 -0800 Subject: [TR] DIZZY CHANGE In-Reply-To: <002001c98f1d$5da9c340$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <002001c98f1d$5da9c340$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Or, you can replace it with a new Pertronix Distributor ... $100 + , but has the correct advance curve built in. I did, it works great ... >Hello! >I am rebuilding a '60 TR3, however I've been told that since I've increased >the displacement from 1991cc to 2138cc, that I also need to replace the >distributor with that from a TR4 (with a slightly different advance curve.) > My question is: Will I also be changing distributor caps and rotor >button's by changing distributor models? > >Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Feb 15 15:53:16 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (Triumph) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 17:53:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] wire wheel color Message-ID: <9A7E7047-B268-4B24-9C77-C6B7ED8B3E5B@cox.net> What is the paint color for TR3 Wire wheels?? John From mathews at uga.edu Sun Feb 15 16:35:18 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 18:35:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] wire wheel color In-Reply-To: <9A7E7047-B268-4B24-9C77-C6B7ED8B3E5B@cox.net> References: <9A7E7047-B268-4B24-9C77-C6B7ED8B3E5B@cox.net> Message-ID: <4998A6B6.5000904@uga.edu> I believe it is argent silver...I think, maybe, well I guess! ;-) Doug Triumph wrote: > What is the paint color for TR3 Wire wheels?? > > John > _______________________________________________ From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Feb 15 17:14:49 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 19:14:49 EST Subject: [TR] wire wheel color Message-ID: In a message dated 2/15/2009 5:35:27 PM Central Standard Time, mathews at uga.edu writes: > I believe it is argent silver...I think, maybe, well I guess! ;-) > That's what I used. With a top coat of clear. Both are available in powder, too. Dave From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Feb 15 20:25:34 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 22:25:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] DIZZY CHANGE References: Message-ID: <004d01c98fe6$3c3cfe10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> ken, I've got the engine (only) running and it sounds great! For over a month now I have worked again on console wiring. Previously, I had run the engine by 'jumping electrical connections' at the solenoid. N0w with the console working, I can start it from the console. There is something that seems out of the ordinary (but, I've never driven a Triumph so I'm not sure.) The RED ignition warning light only glows when the car key is in the running position! There maybe a way to adjust this or maybe the yellow generator wire is unhooked or I may have a bad regulator. What could cause this? Also, even though I am now running it without either of the two stock fuses in place, it would seem that the amp gauge would work. However, it reads '0'.... is this normal? I also had 50-75 oil pressure pounds! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Gano palm top" To: "dorpaul" Sent: Sunday, February 15, 2009 1:40 AM Subject: RE: [TR] DIZZY CHANGE > Paul: > > Your initial timing is not going to be that close anyway. Use what you > have, you will have plenty of time to figure out what is better once you > have it on the road and can start doing some "real world" tuning. Mine > has > been on the road 9 years (with a Mallory distributor, initially set for an > MGB :)) and am still trying to get things like that exactly right. The > difference in timing between a TR3 and a TR4 is so insignificant I doubt > the > rest of the tuning is anywhere near as close. > > Don't worry about it. > > In response to your specific questions, no, the button and cap should > interchange. > > Ken Gano > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dorpaul > Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 9:28 PM > To: list Triumph > Subject: [TR] DIZZY CHANGE > > Hello! > I am rebuilding a '60 TR3, however I've been told that since I've > increased > the displacement from 1991cc to 2138cc, that I also need to replace the > distributor with that from a TR4 (with a slightly different advance > curve.) > My question is: Will I also be changing distributor caps and rotor > button's by changing distributor models? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as triumphs at consolidated.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Feb 16 06:34:18 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:34:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] DIZZY CHANGE In-Reply-To: <004d01c98fe6$3c3cfe10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004d01c98fe6$3c3cfe10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200902160834.19248.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 15 February 2009 22:25:34 dorpaul wrote: > ken, > I've got the engine (only) running and it sounds great! For over a month > now I have worked again on console wiring. Previously, I had run the > engine by 'jumping electrical connections' at the solenoid. N0w with the > console working, I can start it from the console. There is something that > seems out of the ordinary (but, I've never driven a Triumph so I'm not > sure.) The RED ignition warning light only glows when the car key is in the > running position! There maybe a way to adjust this or maybe the yellow > generator wire is unhooked or I may have a bad regulator. What could cause > this? > Also, even though I am now running it without either of the two stock > fuses in place, it would seem that the amp gauge would work. However, it > reads '0'.... is this normal? > I also had 50-75 oil pressure pounds! > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A Paul, The red light should go off even at a 700 - 800 RPM idle with a good generator. At idle you should have maybe a + 1 or 2 amps of charge with a new battery just after a start. But a fully charged battery will show no charge. If you just started the engine and rev the engine to about 2K, you should see at least some charge depending on the battery maybe as high as 10 amps. Does the amp gauge show discharge when you turn on the ignition but don't start the engine or if you turn on the lights? If it does, then at least the gauge is connected correctly. I would look at the connections to the generator and the control box to be sure. Make sure the control box is grounded correctly. Bob From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Feb 16 07:12:49 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 14:12:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] wire wheel color In-Reply-To: <4998A6B6.5000904@uga.edu> Message-ID: <571539238.318951234793569110.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> > What is the paint color for TR3 Wire wheels?? It is a silver for most cars, although I've seen many pictures of attractive 3's with wire wheels painted to match the body paint.B Don't know if this was original to early models. If it's paint bombsB you're looking for, I've used Rust-Oleum "Metallic Finish" and Dupl-Color "Seattle Silver."B I like the Dupli-Color best, myself. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From L1J1S at aol.com Mon Feb 16 13:59:28 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 15:59:28 EST Subject: [TR] triumph-- judson supercharger Message-ID: list, i am just wondering if anyone out there is running a judson supercharger on their triumphs. larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a judson supercharged **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Tue Feb 17 08:09:43 2009 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 10:09:43 EST Subject: [TR] Wheel Colour Message-ID: I have found the Moss wheel spray paint to be a dead-on duplicate of original wheels, whether steel or wire. And as Dave Massey said, that colour is available in powder as well (but not from Moss). Our local powdercoater does the sandblasting, with powder color, followed by a spray clearcoat and they are beautiful! He gets $50 per wheel, which seems pretty fair, considering just the task of sandblasting wire wheels thoroughly! George Haynes ************** You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From Mark.Evans at Anheuser-Busch.com Tue Feb 17 12:10:52 2009 From: Mark.Evans at Anheuser-Busch.com (Evans, Mark CVB Info Systems) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:10:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Shock choices Message-ID: I'm doing a front suspension rebuild on my TR4a. I'm looking for opinions/recommendations on front shock absorbers. Koni vs. SPAX vs. GAZ. Any input would be helpful - especially anyone with experience using GAZ as they seem to be a relative newcomer. Thanks! Mark A. Evans 1966 TR4A IRS CTC63970 LO 'F'ugly' Acworth, Georgia - USA The information transmitted (including attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18 U.S.C. 2510-2521, is intended only for the person(s) or entity/entities to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient(s) is prohibited. If you received this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer. From nogera at worldnet.att.net Tue Feb 17 18:24:16 2009 From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira ) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 19:24:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wrist Pin Fit Message-ID: Okay guys, have been assembling my TR-3 engine without a problem until now. In assembling the rods to the new pistons ( 87mm AE pistons and liners) the first three had pins that were a light tap with a hammer to install into the piston. The last is more of a one finger press to insert. Once in place the first pins are fixed and do not move but the loose one can be made to rotate with a little effort. Should I start looking for another AE piston or will this loose fit be okay? IF another piston is needed where would I start looking? Thanks for any advise Bob From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Feb 17 18:32:01 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 19:32:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Wrist Pin Fit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090218013251.077F918765E@autox.team.net> Sounds fine, no need to worry. The wrist pins in my race car move pretty freely in the pistons. As long as you have the clips in the end to keep them in place I don't see an issue. - Tony Drews At 07:24 PM 2/17/2009, Bob Nogueira wrote: >Okay guys, have been assembling my TR-3 engine without a problem until now. >In assembling the rods to the new pistons ( 87mm AE pistons and liners) the >first three had pins that were a light tap with a hammer to install into the >piston. The last is more of a one finger press to insert. Once in place the >first pins are fixed and do not move but the loose one can be made to rotate >with a little effort. Should I start looking for another AE piston or will >this loose fit be okay? IF another piston is needed where would I start >looking? > >Thanks for any advise > >Bob From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Tue Feb 17 18:54:27 2009 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Robert Rochlin) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 01:54:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] Prestige Auto Tops Message-ID: Hi Everyone, Does anyone have any experience with the Sunfast Top sold by Prestige Auto Top? Their top is almost $175.00 cheaper than Moss/TRF. AA Best and Caribou Tops seem to be out of business and that leaves few choices other than than the Big three. Also, two questions about the hood frame. Is the connection where the top frame is riveted to the front valance supposed to have play in it? Is the front hood stick supposed to have snaps on it? My present top has a cloth tab for, I assume snaps, but the front bow has no snaps installed. Thanks in advance. Bob Rochlin 72 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Tue Feb 17 20:04:32 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:04:32 EST Subject: [TR] Rocker Ratio Message-ID: All, The rocker shaft on my TR6 needs to be replaced. I have a good GT6 shaft complete with rockers and was wondering if anyone knew if the rocker arms are interchangeable (same ratio)? Thanks to all. Sam **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=fe bemailfooterNO62) From DLylis at aol.com Tue Feb 17 20:06:01 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:06:01 EST Subject: [TR] Wrist Pin Fit Message-ID: I would not be concerned. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 17 21:02:22 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:02:22 -0600 Subject: [TR] Prestige Auto Tops References: Message-ID: <002201c9917d$f2f4d180$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> DO NOT GO THERE. i ordered one a year or so ago, and was excited to get a nicer top at a better price. the rear windows are too big, resulting in the hoodstick pushing against the plastic window, and it being practically impossible to unzip the rear window without unlatching it at the front. plus there is only one zipper; it doesn't zip from both sides like the top i had before. and the little tabs that stick down into the doors are too short so often the side flaps in the wind unless i am really careful about how i close the door. i was really excited about getting a nice top that would last a long time; now i'm miserable and stuck with this &^%$# thing for who knows how long. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Rochlin" To: Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 7:54 PM Subject: [TR] Prestige Auto Tops > Hi Everyone, > Does anyone have any experience with the Sunfast Top sold by Prestige Auto > Top? Their top is almost $175.00 cheaper than Moss/TRF. AA Best and > Caribou > Tops seem to be out of business and that leaves few choices other than > than > the Big three. > Also, two questions about the hood frame. Is the connection where the > top > frame is riveted to the front valance supposed to have play in it? Is > the > front hood stick supposed to have snaps on it? My present top has a cloth > tab > for, I assume snaps, but the front bow has no snaps installed. > Thanks in advance. > Bob Rochlin > 72 TR6 From trglory at verizon.net Wed Feb 18 14:54:53 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Jos Laurito) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:54:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Still more on tires Message-ID: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Soooooo.. After reading all the posts regarding tires I went out today to take a real hard look at the tires on my TR6. My Michelin redlines and tubes look brand new but are now about 25 years old. All the advice regarding "old" tire dry rot worries me so I concluded that baby needs some new shoes before the next driving season starts. The original plan was to also pop for a set of 16 inch Panasports, but after checking the balance of my 401k fund (I'm retired) I will be putting the new rubber on the OEM wheels. And I better do it soon before the Wall Street sharks gobble up what's left. Then it's off to Wal-Mart to apply for a job as a greeter. It looks like 215/70-15 is the closest available size to the original diameter, but I think I detect a preference for 205/70-15 from the listers. Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole lot to choose from in those sizes (but nothing to choose from in the almost-stock size). For the folks that are using tires that are currently available (and who actually like them), what are your recommendations? My car is bone stock. Thanks Joe From triumph66 at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 15:11:33 2009 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:11:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Message-ID: Hey Joe, This fellow in OH orders Vredesteins in quantity. Vreds come in stock TR sizes with 82 aspect ratio www.tiresunlimited.com/vred_tires.htm Classic Motorsports recently did an article on Vreds, see their recent issue. Kumhos seem popular among users on this board and would also be easier on one's asset base. NFI, HTH, Ted On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 4:54 PM, Jos Laurito wrote: > Soooooo.. After reading all the posts regarding tires I went out today to > take a real hard look at the tires on my TR6. My Michelin redlines and > tubes > look brand new but are now about 25 years old. All the advice regarding > "old" tire dry rot worries me so I concluded that baby needs some new shoes > before the next driving season starts. > > The original plan was to also pop for a set of 16 inch Panasports, but > after > checking the balance of my 401k fund (I'm retired) I will be putting the > new > rubber on the OEM wheels. And I better do it soon before the Wall Street > sharks gobble up what's left. Then it's off to Wal-Mart to apply for a job > as a greeter. > > It looks like 215/70-15 is the closest available size to the original > diameter, but I think I detect a preference for 205/70-15 from the listers. > Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole lot to choose > from in those sizes (but nothing to choose from in the almost-stock size). > For the folks that are using tires that are currently available (and who > actually like them), what are your recommendations? My car is bone stock. > > Thanks > > Joe > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as triumph66 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Feb 18 15:28:22 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:28:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Message-ID: <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> Hi Joe, I actually compiled a survey awhile back on what people were using for tires.? Then a couple years later I tried to coerce another survey from the list but this time I received very few responses, certainly not enough to compile into a representative list.? I did place the results from the original survey on the triumphowners.com web site listing of my car.? If you go to the site scroll down to the wheel survey near the bottom.? There are tire results there as well. triumphowners.com/108 I had originally purchased some Yokohama Avid tires in 205/65/15 and was satisfied with their performance but they wore out very quickly.? This last time I purchased some Falken Tires ZIEX ZE-912 205/65R15 from discount tire online.? Bob Danielson gave me the information that Grassroots Motorsports reviewed them and had good things to say about them.? Other sources on the web had mostly positive things to say about them including that they would last longer than 10k miles.? I have not put many miles on them at this point but have nothing bad to say about them so far. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Jos Laurito To: 6Pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>; Triumphs List Sent: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 4:54 pm Subject: [6pack] Still more on tires Soooooo.. It looks like 215/70-15 is the closest available size to the original diameter, but I think I detect a preference for 205/70-15 from the listers. Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole lot to choose from in those sizes (but nothing to choose from in the almost-stock size). For the folks that are using tires that are currently available (and who actually like them), what are your recommendations? My car is bone stock. Thanks Joe From triumph66 at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 16:23:19 2009 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:23:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Another tire that comes to mind that Classic Motorsports had also given favorable reviews and they have wide distribution are Sumitomo tires, NFI, TL On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 5:28 PM, wrote: > Hi Joe, > > I actually compiled a survey awhile back on what people were using for > tires.? Then a couple years later I tried to coerce another survey from the > list but this time I received very few responses, certainly not enough to > compile into a representative list.? I did place the results from the > original survey on the triumphowners.com web site listing of my car.? If > you go to the site scroll down to the wheel survey near the bottom.? There > are tire results there as well. > > triumphowners.com/108 > > I had originally purchased some Yokohama Avid tires in 205/65/15 and was > satisfied with their performance but they wore out very quickly.? This last > time I purchased some Falken Tires ZIEX ZE-912 205/65R15 from discount tire > online.? Bob Danielson gave me the information that Grassroots Motorsports > reviewed them and had good things to say about them.? Other sources on the > web had mostly positive things to say about them including that they would > last longer than 10k miles.? I have not put many miles on them at this point > but have nothing bad to say about them so far. > > Aaron > Aaron Cropley > 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) > http://www.triumphowners.com/108 > 2002 Mini Cooper S > Topsham, Maine > > ----Original Message----- > From: Jos Laurito > To: 6Pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>; Triumphs List < > triumphs at autox.team.net> > Sent: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 4:54 pm > Subject: [6pack] Still more on tires > > Soooooo.. > > It looks like 215/70-15 is the closest available size to the original > diameter, but I think I detect a preference for 205/70-15 from the listers. > Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole lot to choose > from in those sizes (but nothing to choose from in the almost-stock size). > For the folks that are using tires that are currently available (and who > actually like them), what are your recommendations? My car is bone stock. > > Thanks > > Joe > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Feb 18 18:02:04 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:02:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <756344257.3077891235000400008.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> References: <756344257.3077891235000400008.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <8CB6044D0828C18-1130-13C8@WEBMAIL-DC07.sysops.aol.com> I bought mine through discounttiredirect.com for I think it was $61 each, with free shipping plus $50 at my local tire place to mount and balance them for a total price of $294 installed.? Currently the price is $63, and they still have free shipping as of this email.? Falken Ziex ZE-912? 205/65R-15 94H BLK mileage warranty is 65,000 Miles? And they also have a price match guarantee if you find it lower. NFI, etc, etc. Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: Ted Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 6:39 pm Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires In my search, I ended up with something different:? ? Goodyear Comfortread? radial tires P205/70R15? ? $105 per tire installed. For $420, it made the most difference in my ride and handling for anything I have done to a stock TR6. No rubbing issues at all on stock rims. Replaced red lines.? ? Love them,? ? Craig H. Nicholls? 1972 Triumph TR6? Vienna, A? ? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 18 19:00:17 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:00:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Message-ID: <20090219020017.NXPW21761.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole > lot to choose from in those sizes TireRack lists 35 tires in 205/70-15; 36 in 215/70-15. > For the folks that are using tires that are currently > available (and who actually like them), what are your > recommendations? My car is bone stock. I don't fit that category, but I've had good luck with Yokohama AVID tires before. If I were you, I'd probably try the new AVID Touring-S in 215/70; which TireRack has listed for only $60/tire. Of course you'll need to add S&H, mounting and balancing to that price when comparing to local tire sources. But that will likely still be a good price compared to, say, the Goodyears that my local Wal-Mart stocks at $95/tire plus tax. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Wed Feb 18 19:35:47 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:35:47 EST Subject: [TR] Still more on tires Message-ID: I bought Yokohama Avids 205/70 15 from Tires Plus for $315 mounted and balanced. I am not sure if this is exclusively a Florida chain or not. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From jimbpps at cox.net Wed Feb 18 19:49:33 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 19:49:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Message-ID: I recently put about 2000 miles on my TR250 with 4 new Kumho ECSTA asx, P205/165R15 tires. I like the ride and they seem to grip very well so far. They do not rub any where on my stock TR250 body! Bought them about 6 months ago on line from The Tire Rack and they were very reasonable. As always NFI, Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jos Laurito Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 2:55 PM To: 6Pack List; Triumphs List Subject: [TR] Still more on tires Soooooo.. After reading all the posts regarding tires I went out today to take a real hard look at the tires on my TR6. My Michelin redlines and tubes look brand new but are now about 25 years old. All the advice regarding "old" tire dry rot worries me so I concluded that baby needs some new shoes before the next driving season starts. The original plan was to also pop for a set of 16 inch Panasports, but after checking the balance of my 401k fund (I'm retired) I will be putting the new rubber on the OEM wheels. And I better do it soon before the Wall Street sharks gobble up what's left. Then it's off to Wal-Mart to apply for a job as a greeter. It looks like 215/70-15 is the closest available size to the original diameter, but I think I detect a preference for 205/70-15 from the listers. Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole lot to choose from in those sizes (but nothing to choose from in the almost-stock size). For the folks that are using tires that are currently available (and who actually like them), what are your recommendations? My car is bone stock. Thanks Joe Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From pcaffrey at ymail.com Wed Feb 18 19:32:59 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:32:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Still more on tires Message-ID: <185196.53077.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I can attest to the quality of the Yokohama AVID. It's the only tire I use on my commuter car, which is not a TR. The tire is relatively soft and pliable, corners well, and really limits hydroplaning (the latter, not so important for TR owners, I suppose). Pat TR4A '67 --- On Thu, 2/19/09, Randall wrote: From: Randall Subject: Re: [TR] Still more on tires To: "'Triumphs List'" Date: Thursday, February 19, 2009, 2:00 AM > Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole > lot to choose from in those sizes TireRack lists 35 tires in 205/70-15; 36 in 215/70-15. > For the folks that are using tires that are currently > available (and who actually like them), what are your > recommendations? My car is bone stock. I don't fit that category, but I've had good luck with Yokohama AVID tires before. If I were you, I'd probably try the new AVID Touring-S in 215/70; which TireRack has listed for only $60/tire. Of course you'll need to add S&H, mounting and balancing to that price when comparing to local tire sources. But that will likely still be a good price compared to, say, the Goodyears that my local Wal-Mart stocks at $95/tire plus tax. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From trglory at verizon.net Thu Feb 19 09:37:48 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Jos Laurito) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:37:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <185196.53077.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <049512347EBE4D89AC146EF2E9B5F0E2@newbox> Thanks to all for the great feedback. The TR owners' satisfaction index seems to be highest with Yokohama AVID 205/70-15 tires, so that's where I'll be going. But wait.....will it be the AVID Touring, Touring-S, T4 or TRZ? Hmmmmmmm. Joe From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 19 10:40:31 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 09:40:31 -0800 Subject: [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Message-ID: <000301c992b9$29b40b00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I recently put about 2000 miles on my TR250 with 4 new Kumho ECSTA asx, > P205/165R15 tires. Just curious, Jim, is it true that the TR250 had narrower wheels than the TR6? I thought they went to 5.5" wheels with the introduction of the 6-cylinder, but the book I picked up last night said the TR5/250 only had 5.0". Also, I'm assuming you meant 205/65, which looks to be the tallest Ecsta ASX available for a 15" rim. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Thu Feb 19 10:58:36 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 17:58:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1182505436.139541235066316615.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- DLylis at aol.com wrote: > I bought Yokohama Avids 205/70 15 from Tires Plus for $315 mounted and > > balanced. I am not sure if this is exclusively a Florida chain or > not. We have Tires Plus in Minnesota. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From DLylis at aol.com Thu Feb 19 11:11:56 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 13:11:56 EST Subject: [TR] Still more on tires Message-ID: In a message dated 2/19/2009 12:41:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: is it true that the TR250 had narrower wheels than the TR6? I understand that is true, although the 250s I know have TR6 wheels on them for the wider, modern tires. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Feb 19 11:42:17 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:42:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <000301c992b9$29b40b00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> <000301c992b9$29b40b00$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Yes! They are 205/65 NOT 165, a slip of the typo! Yes the stock wheel was 5.0 however, I have the KN Minilites at 5.5 on my car. Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 10:41 AM To: 'Triumphs List' Subject: Re: [TR] Still more on tires > I recently put about 2000 miles on my TR250 with 4 new Kumho ECSTA > asx, > P205/165R15 tires. Just curious, Jim, is it true that the TR250 had narrower wheels than the TR6? I thought they went to 5.5" wheels with the introduction of the 6-cylinder, but the book I picked up last night said the TR5/250 only had 5.0". Also, I'm assuming you meant 205/65, which looks to be the tallest Ecsta ASX available for a 15" rim. Randall Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 19 13:32:03 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 12:32:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] FS: 62 TR4 w/ Aluminum Surrey Top on BAT Message-ID: <005c01c992d1$2041e7a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Probably better billed as a surrey top with a free TR4 project I know nothing else about the car, just thought it was interesting. Randall -----Original Message----- I thought someone might be interested in this project or parts car http://bringatrailer.com/2009/02/19/bat-exclusive-1962-triumph-tr4-project especially for the top. The car is in Texas. From steven at newellboys.net Thu Feb 19 19:32:15 2009 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 19:32:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires (Geo Hahn effect) In-Reply-To: <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net> acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: >I actually compiled a survey awhile back on what people were using for tires. Then a couple years later I tried to coerce another survey from the list but this time I received very few responses... > Few people responded on-list last time because of the Geo Hahn effect. If list member Geo buys a brand of tires in a particular size -- usually 165R15 -- they are immediately discontinued. This has happened with too many good brands, causing a crisis for Triumph and classic VW owners alike. (All I'm saying is if you like Kumho Power Stars, buy a spare set now.) Anyway, as a result few list members mention tire brands on triumphs at autox.team.net, though you can find a good discussion of tire alternatives at triumphs-except-geo-hahn at autox.team.net. Steven Newell '62 TR4 with xxxxxx brand tires, soon to be replaced with xxxxxxxxxxx's From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Feb 19 19:42:57 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 21:42:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: <499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox><8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> <499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net> Message-ID: Three weeks ago I bought a TR250 (obviously in need of total restoration) in PA for $750. This car had a title, so I took it into the MA DMV to pay the 5% sales tax. $750 x 0.05 = $37.50, right ? But no, they said the car was worth $3500 and made me pay $175. I guess I should have brought a picture....... Andrew Uprichard From jdinnis at gmail.com Thu Feb 19 19:51:09 2009 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 20:51:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> <499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net> Message-ID: Iowa does the same thing to us. This is to get out of people lying about the sale price of a vehicle. Last year my parents gave my wife an old truck. We didn't pay a dime for it, but still had to pay Iowa sales tax on it. On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:42 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Three weeks ago I bought a TR250 (obviously in need of total restoration) in > PA for $750. This car had a title, so I took it into the MA DMV to pay the > 5% sales tax. $750 x 0.05 = $37.50, right ? But no, they said the car was > worth $3500 and made me pay $175. > > I guess I should have brought a picture....... > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Thu Feb 19 20:18:24 2009 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 22:18:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Rub Message-ID: <20090220031825.R32NC.72008.root@hrndva-web12-z02> I'm getting a rub between tire and fender on right front. The clearance between tire and fender on the right and left sides are about the same. The rub occurs on a hard bump or a hard right hand turn, usually when a passenger is riding in the car. Springs have been replaced. Performing the bounce on the shocks does not seem to produce any excessive movement. The tires are slightly larger than factory size. (185s) But if the tire was the problem, wouldn't I also have the problem on the driver side of the car? Paul From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Feb 19 20:26:45 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (Triumph) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 20:26:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> <499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net> Message-ID: When I bought my car from a person in Minnesota & took it to get licensed here in AZ, theDMV cleck asked what the car was worth because it was noy in their book. Being honest, I told them I has paid $12K for it. No they said, what did the car cost new? I guessed $2500. Ok the clerk said & got out a depreciation table and said that it was now worth $100 in terms of what was used to determine its annual property tax. I thought I should fight for the honor of my LBC, but greed got the better of me & I said that sounded just about right! :-) John On 19 Feb, 2009, at 7:51 PM, John Innis wrote: > Iowa does the same thing to us. This is to get out of people lying > about the sale price of a vehicle. Last year my parents gave my wife > an old truck. We didn't pay a dime for it, but still had to pay Iowa > sales tax on it. > > On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:42 PM, Andrew Uprichard > wrote: >> Three weeks ago I bought a TR250 (obviously in need of total >> restoration) in >> PA for $750. This car had a title, so I took it into the MA DMV to >> pay the >> 5% sales tax. $750 x 0.05 = $37.50, right ? But no, they said the >> car was >> worth $3500 and made me pay $175. >> >> I guess I should have brought a picture....... >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 19 22:32:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 21:32:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090220053254.VZXH8858.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Ok the clerk said & got out a depreciation table and said > that it was now worth $100 in terms of what was used to > determine its annual property tax. CA did it the same way, before they repealed the tax entirely. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 19 22:35:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 21:35:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires (Geo Hahn effect) In-Reply-To: <499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <20090220053559.YLON27443.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > (All I'm saying is if > you like Kumho Power Stars, buy a spare set > now.) Funny thing is, the PowerStars seem to have come full circle. TireRack had them listed as backordered for a long time, then pulled them from the website entirely. I called a few months ago and was told that they had been discontinued by Kumho. Now they are listed again, in stock. Did Geo say he didn't like them, or something ? Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Feb 20 06:06:38 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:06:38 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 Tire Rub Message-ID: In a message dated 2/19/2009 9:18:46 PM Central Standard Time, pbrandsema at triad.rr.com writes: > I'm getting a rub between tire and fender on right front. The clearance > between tire and fender on the right and left sides are about the same. The > rub occurs on a hard bump or a hard right hand turn, usually when a passenger > is riding in the car. Springs have been replaced. Performing the bounce on > the shocks does not seem to produce any excessive movement. The tires are > slightly larger than factory size. (185s) But if the tire was the problem, > wouldn't I also have the problem on the driver side of the car? > Have you check out the shape of your suspension bushes lately? They may be deflecting more on hard turns than on the other side. Dave From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 20 06:35:45 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:35:45 EST Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV Message-ID: When I brought my TR6 paperwork to the DMV with the mileage certified by the sheriffs deputy the lady behind the counter decided it was absurd that such an old car had that mileage and changed the certification to unknown. Their defense to contesting these things is a pile of paperwork and delays in getting plates, so I bowed graciously while secretly extending my middle finger, and moved on. At least it made ME feel a little better for a moment or two. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From mmoore8425 at aol.com Fri Feb 20 06:47:28 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (mmoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:47:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB6178E7C9AB13-1490-1789@WEBMAIL-MZ21.sysops.aol.com> I moved from LA to Dallas in 1967. To put things into context, this 25 year old part-time college student was active in registering black voters at the time. I went to the Texas department of Public Safety to get my new Texas drivers license.? The form had a box which said "Race" with a choice of "W" or "C". I checked "C" as I am Caucasian. I got almost to the end of the process when a? large uniformed man said? "Boy, you checked "C", you don't look colored to me". I said "Colored is not a race. Neither is white. Caucasian is a race", He said "Boy, do you want to take a driving test?". I changed my form to a "W". So much for strength of convictions! Mike Moore -----Original Message----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: auprichard at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 5:35 am Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV When I brought my TR6 paperwork to the DMV with the mileage certified by the sheriffs deputy the lady behind the counter decided it was absurd that such an old car had that mileage and changed the certification to unknown. Their defense to contesting these things is a pile of paperwork and delays in getting plates, so I bowed graciously while secretly extending my middle finger, and moved on. At least it made ME feel a little better for a moment or two. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 20 06:55:04 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:55:04 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A springs Message-ID: When I restored the chassis on my TR3A I replaced springs all the way around with repro springs from one of the big two. (not counting PA). When I dropped the motor into the chassis and got everything in place I went around and did a comprehensive measure for level and marked up where (and if) adjustment was necessary with body shims when the body went on. There was nothing unusual and extremely little variance. The rear axle, of course, was tight against the top of the chassis as there was no weight in the rear. Now that the body is on and the car is complete, I have a low corner on the drivers side rear and from inspection from below it appears that the drivers rear spring shows more flex than the passenger. The repro springs do not have the blocking on the passenger side as the originals do to lower the passenger side for level ride with only a driver in the car. The thing that stings here is that I replaced all the springs because I had excess droop on the passenger side before I started the resto. I could make plates as spacers between the spring and the axle for the pasenger side which will lower on that side. Or should I go for raising the low side? You kind of have to know to look for the droop, although a TR3 officianado noticed, no one else seems to. What say the list? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Feb 20 07:22:29 2009 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:22:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A springs References: Message-ID: Hi David, How did the excess "Droop" come to be noticed? Usually you wouldn't notice droop until the Car is fully suspended,Droop limiters, through Straps or Shocks or Bumper Stops would mask such things. Was the Ride Heigth normal with no Driver or a Driver in it before? Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 (Project) 75 TR6 (Daily Driver again Soon I hope) Lola T598 Hawke DL12 (Formula Ford) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 8:55 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A springs > When I restored the chassis on my TR3A I replaced springs all the way > around > with repro springs from one of the big two. (not counting PA). When I > dropped the motor into the chassis and got everything in place I went > around and > did a comprehensive measure for level and marked up where (and if) > adjustment > was necessary with body shims when the body went on. There was nothing > unusual and extremely little variance. The rear axle, of course, was > tight > against the top of the chassis as there was no weight in the rear. Now > that the > body is on and the car is complete, I have a low corner on the drivers > side > rear and from inspection from below it appears that the drivers rear > spring > shows more flex than the passenger. The repro springs do not have the > blocking > on the passenger side as the originals do to lower the passenger side for > level ride with only a driver in the car. > The thing that stings here is that I replaced all the springs because I > had > excess droop on the passenger side before I started the resto. > I could make plates as spacers between the spring and the axle for the > pasenger side which will lower on that side. Or should I go for raising > the low > side? > You kind of have to know to look for the droop, although a TR3 > officianado > noticed, no one else seems to. > What say the list? > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose > how > to find them. Start with AOL Personals. > (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Fri Feb 20 07:34:17 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:34:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A springs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1417958355.506641235140457392.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Wayne Lee" wrote: > Hi David, > How did the excess "Droop" come to be noticed? Usually you wouldn't > notice > droop until the Car is fully suspended,Droop limiters, through Straps > or > Shocks > or Bumper Stops would mask such things. Was the Ride Heigth normal > with no > Driver > or a Driver in it before? What we have here is a failure to communicate. He was not using "droop" in the same technical sense you are. He was talking about sagging ride height. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From steven at newellboys.net Fri Feb 20 07:34:44 2009 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 07:34:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires (Geo Hahn effect) In-Reply-To: <20090220053559.YLON27443.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090220053559.YLON27443.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <499EBF84.60305@newellboys.net> Randall wrote: >>(All I'm saying is if >>you like Kumho Power Stars, buy a spare set >>now.) >> >> > >Funny thing is, the PowerStars seem to have come full circle. TireRack had them listed as backordered for a long time, then pulled them from the website entirely. I called a few months ago and was told that they had been discontinued by Kumho. > >Now they are listed again, in stock. > >Did Geo say he didn't like them, or something ? > > Ha! Maybe he ordered my Vredesteins instead. Oops... Steven From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 20 07:53:17 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:53:17 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A springs Message-ID: Help me out here. What technical application of "droop" are we referring to? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From pethier at comcast.net Fri Feb 20 08:28:06 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 15:28:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A springs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2080342812.529671235143686478.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> "Droop" does not refer to anything that is happening on a car while it is sitting on its tires. When you have the car up in the air with jackstands under the frame, the suspension is "in droop". Folks familiar with this concept could ge confused by your use of the term. I suggest that when you are talking about the fact that one corner is lower than it ought when the car is in its tires that you use "sag" rather than "droop". Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- DLylis at aol.com wrote: > From: DLylis at aol.com > To: pethier at comcast.net, wayne at motorcarriage.com > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 8:53:17 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A springs > > Help me out here.B What technical application of "droop" are we > referring to? > B > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find > them. Start with AOL Personals. From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 20 08:36:35 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:36:35 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A springs Message-ID: Thanks. Are there comments on my TR3 condition? As I get older I am more adverse to using the term "sag". David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Feb 20 08:46:59 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:46:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A springs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001501c99372$781f6cd0$685e4670$@net> You mean droop could be the driver...nice guy Well that fits most of us Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 10:37 AM To: pethier at comcast.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A springs Thanks. Are there comments on my TR3 condition? As I get older I am more adverse to using the term "sag". David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Feb 20 08:49:04 2009 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:49:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A springs References: <1417958355.506641235140457392.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Then the layman's term is just that excess sag. Technical term for that is excessive static "Bump" Sorry, Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Wayne Lee" Cc: ; "Triumph List" Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 9:34 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A springs > ----- "Wayne Lee" wrote: >> Hi David, >> How did the excess "Droop" come to be noticed? Usually you wouldn't >> notice >> droop until the Car is fully suspended,Droop limiters, through Straps >> or >> Shocks >> or Bumper Stops would mask such things. Was the Ride Heigth normal >> with no >> Driver >> or a Driver in it before? > > What we have here is a failure to communicate. He was not using "droop" > in the same technical sense you are. He was talking about sagging ride > height. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com Fri Feb 20 09:41:06 2009 From: JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com (Dombey, John R.) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:41:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ah, the DMV - such a joy to deal with. I have had deal with them on both a gift car and a car that was worth a lot less than book value. We gave a car to our daughter when she graduated from college. In Washington state, if the car is a gift, you just bring a notarized document stating that it is, and they waive the sales tax (after all, you've already paid it once, and no money is changing hands). It was that way in Ohio as well (at least it was many years ago...) As far as the car that was worth less than the book value - when I registered our Stag, I drove it to the DMV and when the lady seemed skeptical about the sales price (even though I had a receipt signed by the DPO) I just pointed her to the parking lot, where a very sad and scruffy looking turf-brown Stag sat. She relented. If you've got a non-driver, take some not-too-flattering pictures with you - it might work. John Dombey '69 TR6 -------------------- > Andrew wrote: > Three weeks ago I bought a TR250 (obviously in need of > total restoration) in PA for $750. This car had a > title, so I took it into the MA DMV to pay the 5% > sales tax. $750 x 0.05 = $37.50, right ? But no, > they said the car was worth $3500 and made me pay $175. > > I guess I should have brought a picture....... > John wrote: > Iowa does the same thing to us. This is to get out > of people lying about the sale price of a vehicle. > Last year my parents gave my wife an old truck. > We didn't pay a dime for it, but still had to pay > Iowa sales tax on it. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 20 10:38:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 09:38:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A springs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <014201c99382$17d730a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I could make plates as spacers between the spring and the axle for the > pasenger side which will lower on that side. Ignoring the sophistry about what constitutes "droop", I would follow in the factory's footsteps and add shims as necessary to lower the passenger's side. In an ideal world, the new springs would match exactly. Here in the real world, they often don't. Use the shims, Luke. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Fri Feb 20 10:46:43 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:46:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: <9C830424385C4EA3AA05F315E3A1CF97@joepentiumnew> Sorry to bomb the list but I am having trouble with my EMAIL server. From spitlist at cox.net Fri Feb 20 10:46:43 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:46:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <39D6BFACEDC741A0AF4692C3F4AAAC4F@joepentiumnew> When I put Tiny Tim (the former autocross Spit) back to street Trim a couple of years ago, I Trailered him to the DMV office to register it. They always do a vehicle inspection in AZ. Anyway, it went smoothly and I got my Historic vehicle plates with no hassel. A few weeks later, I got a notice from the DMV that I have no insurance on the vehicle which is required by the state. Looking over the documents, I realized that the clerk had transposed two of the digits of the commission number and of course the documents they got from my insurance company did not match. Another trip to the DMV (this time driving the car) straightened it out. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dombey, John R. Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 9:41 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV Ah, the DMV - such a joy to deal with. I have had deal with them on both a gift car and a car that was worth a lot less than book value. We gave a car to our daughter when she graduated from college. In Washington state, if the car is a gift, you just bring a notarized document stating that it is, and they waive the sales tax (after all, you've already paid it once, and no money is changing hands). It was that way in Ohio as well (at least it was many years ago...) As far as the car that was worth less than the book value - when I registered our Stag, I drove it to the DMV and when the lady seemed skeptical about the sales price (even though I had a receipt signed by the DPO) I just pointed her to the parking lot, where a very sad and scruffy looking turf-brown Stag sat. She relented. If you've got a non-driver, take some not-too-flattering pictures with you - it might work. John Dombey '69 TR6 -------------------- > Andrew wrote: > Three weeks ago I bought a TR250 (obviously in need of > total restoration) in PA for $750. This car had a > title, so I took it into the MA DMV to pay the 5% > sales tax. $750 x 0.05 = $37.50, right ? But no, > they said the car was worth $3500 and made me pay $175. > > I guess I should have brought a picture....... > John wrote: > Iowa does the same thing to us. This is to get out > of people lying about the sale price of a vehicle. > Last year my parents gave my wife an old truck. > We didn't pay a dime for it, but still had to pay > Iowa sales tax on it. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Feb 20 11:40:58 2009 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:40:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A springs Message-ID: <447FC0A29C2843ACB446B25604DCBA45@artvac412870f0> Hi Randall, Your advice as to adding Shims could be very much a remedy, I'd agree for many reasons, But as far as my interpreting "Droop" as Droop is in no way "sophistic" or argumentative. (in Laymen's terms) Full Bump and Full Droop is the Basis for all Suspension Geometry Nomenclature Baselines in between, since I remember. It's not a You say tomatah I say tomatoe thing. I never knew what constitutes "Droop" was a debatable issue in the real world,let's hope the word "Ackermann" doesn't come up. Someone might get their feilings hurt if they thought it meant full opposite lock, and had to endure correcting somebody, and it's PC aftermath. You're never too bashful with a correction. There's been no one holding back more or any more reserved with advice than I, as not to step on the resident ham's toes here on this forum,or any other's. Wayne > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randall" > To: > Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 12:38 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A springs > > >>> I could make plates as spacers between the spring and the axle for the >>> pasenger side which will lower on that side. >> >> Ignoring the sophistry about what constitutes "droop", I would follow in >> the >> factory's footsteps and add shims as necessary to lower the passenger's >> side. >> >> In an ideal world, the new springs would match exactly. Here in the real >> world, they often don't. Use the shims, Luke. >> >> Randall >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 14:49:51 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:49:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires (Geo Hahn effect) In-Reply-To: <499EBF84.60305@newellboys.net> References: <20090220053559.YLON27443.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <499EBF84.60305@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0902201349w22b16e95p4df0e863990899e6@mail.gmail.com> My next set of tires will be in the summer of 2010 when the Michelin XZXs are retired. Expect the Kuhmos to disappear by then. As a service to the community I will avoid jinxing Vredesteins... instead my next victim will be Nankang, who have branded their 165/80x15s: "GeoStar". No joke: http://www.tireco.com/Product_Detail.asp?CateID=39&LineID=12&ProductID=221 Geo On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 7:34 AM, Steven Newell wrote: > Randall wrote: > > (All I'm saying is if you like Kumho Power Stars, buy a spare set >>> now.) >> >> >>> Did Geo say he didn't like them, or something ? >>> >>> >>> Ha! Maybe he ordered my Vredesteins instead. Oops... From kajohns64 at yahoo.com Fri Feb 20 14:59:29 2009 From: kajohns64 at yahoo.com (Kurt Johnson) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 13:59:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> <499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <270546.60373.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> What county are you in? I have transferred titles in Blackhawk, Benton, Cerro Gordo, and Des Moines Counties for more than 40 of my personal cars over the last 20+ years and only once did the County Treasurer question my declared sale price of a car or if the car was given to me free of charge.. every one of the sale prices were bogus. ----- Original Message ---- From: John Innis To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 8:51:09 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV Iowa does the same thing to us. This is to get out of people lying about the sale price of a vehicle. Last year my parents gave my wife an old truck. We didn't pay a dime for it, but still had to pay Iowa sales tax on it. On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:42 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Three weeks ago I bought a TR250 (obviously in need of total restoration) in > PA for $750. This car had a title, so I took it into the MA DMV to pay the > 5% sales tax. $750 x 0.05 = $37.50, right ? But no, they said the car was > worth $3500 and made me pay $175. > > I guess I should have brought a picture....... > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as kajohns64 at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 15:09:24 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 15:09:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A springs In-Reply-To: <014201c99382$17d730a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <014201c99382$17d730a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0902201409h5c36860x23408e44f6593fc@mail.gmail.com> On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 10:38 AM, Randall wrote: > > ..I would follow in the factory's footsteps and add shims as necessary to > lower the passenger's side. > Just so I can visualize this... would a shim to lower the passenger side be a plate (sort of an extra leaf) under the passenger side spring and captured by the same U-bolts already in place? Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 20 15:22:06 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:22:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A springs In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0902201409h5c36860x23408e44f6593fc@mail.gmail.com> References: <014201c99382$17d730a0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <7bb181af0902201409h5c36860x23408e44f6593fc@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <003101c993a9$aa91d590$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Just so I can visualize this... would a shim to lower the passenger side > be > a plate (sort of an extra leaf) under the passenger side spring and > captured > by the same U-bolts already in place? Recall that the axle on a TR3A sits on top of the spring, so the spacer would go on top as well, between the axle and spring. The factory spacer (found on only some cars) looked exactly like a very short extra leaf, apparently even the same steel, except it was cut square on the ends instead of tapered. It was actually assembled as part of the spring (held by the center bolt through the spring) and also captured by the same U-bolts that hold the axle to the spring (or spring to the axle depending on your point of view). Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Feb 20 16:50:06 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 23:50:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A springs In-Reply-To: <447FC0A29C2843ACB446B25604DCBA45@artvac412870f0> Message-ID: <1617358052.809141235173806747.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Just a point of clarification.B I was about to dubiously dub Randall with the title ofB Honorary English Major for using "sophistry" correctly, for the issue wasn't about being argumentative as much as posing an argument of words without substance, which is rather in a nutshell what sophistry is.B All that business of droop versus sag is, for we laymen, pure semantics as long as the context was clear and it pretty much was. Now, why am I making this ludicrous point?B ...Because I simply couldn't resist being sophisticB about the word sophistry.B B Hah!B Having spread evil upon the world, the demon slinks back into the dungeon to sleep proudly and soundly amidst the wounds and wreckage of his day.... Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A New Hampshire B >But as far as myB interpreting "Droop" as Droop is in no way "sophistic" or argumentative. >> Ignoring the sophistry about what constitutes "droop", I would... From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Feb 20 16:51:31 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:51:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? Message-ID: <004101c993b6$291c9600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Group, I've just now ordered and received a new set of spark plug wires and original side-mount style distributor cap. I went ahead and hooked up both (in proper order), all wiring checked out ok with my connectivity meter from the cap to the spark plug boot. However, the center connection (inside the cap) doesn't seem to be working. Oh, the spark plug wire from the coil works fine, (evidenced by the fact that the metal screw that's screwed thru the rubber cable makes the connectivity gauge buzzer sound.) My problem is inside the cap! No connectivity is made when touching the plunger-contact (meant to contact the rotor) and the forementioned screw (or it's cable-boot at the end of it's cable)! Not even when that springy plunger is pressed down all-the-way. I've even tryed it when the dist. cap is turned rightside up. Does this mean the brand new cap (Genuine Remax brand in the grn&black box) is bad? How can it be rectified? The car motor is not operable at the moment for me to check it out in 'real-time'! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From mdporter at dfn.com Fri Feb 20 17:03:27 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 17:03:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A springs In-Reply-To: <1617358052.809141235173806747.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1617358052.809141235173806747.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <499F44CF.9060009@dfn.com> terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Just a point of clarification.B I was about to dubiously dub Randall with the > title ofB Honorary English Major for using "sophistry" correctly, for the > issue wasn't about being argumentative as much as posing an argument of words > without substance, which is rather in a nutshell what sophistry is.B All that > business of droop versus sag is, for we laymen, pure semantics as long as the > context was clear and it pretty much was. > > > > Umm, more specifically, sophistry is the employment of precise logic to deceptively argue from a false premise and is thus a rhetorically invalid argument. :) Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 20 17:05:50 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 16:05:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <004101c993b6$291c9600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004101c993b6$291c9600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <004a01c993b8$28350a40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > No connectivity is made when touching the > plunger-contact (meant to contact the rotor) and the forementioned screw Most likely, your cap is fine, Paul. That black plunger thing is actually supposed to be a resistor (to reduce radio frequency interference), and its resistance is probably too high for your continuity checker to show as continuity. However, the high voltage that forms the spark will have no trouble going through the resistance. Wait until you can try it out on the real motor. Randall From gtwincams at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 17:18:29 2009 From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 16:18:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <004a01c993b8$28350a40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <004101c993b6$291c9600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <004a01c993b8$28350a40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <499F4855.1030600@gmail.com> Paul, Randall beat me to it - yes, your cap is probably fine, for the reasons he cited. I sell these same NOS Remax caps through my eBay store; these were very high quality caps, but there's always a chance for some defect, though I haven't found any in my supply yet. I have just pulled 6 off the shelf to sample them. With my VOM set at 2 megohm or above, I can read resistance through the graphite plunger rod. The spring is in contact with the center cap conductor, and the other end of the spring is wrapped around the graphite plunger rod. As long as your spring is contacting the center conductor, it should operate properly as a high voltage conductor. You can carefully extract the plunger rod and verify that the spring is not deformed; if not you should be just fine. Cheers, Greg Tatarian Randall wrote: >> No connectivity is made when touching the >> plunger-contact (meant to contact the rotor) and the forementioned screw >> > > Most likely, your cap is fine, Paul. That black plunger thing is actually > supposed to be a resistor (to reduce radio frequency interference), and its > resistance is probably too high for your continuity checker to show as > continuity. However, the high voltage that forms the spark will have no > trouble going through the resistance. > > Wait until you can try it out on the real motor. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as gtwincams at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 20 17:23:27 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:23:27 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A springs Message-ID: Geez man, I was only trying to get my TR3A level. Please limit responses to the use of words such as Bolt, Nut, Spring, a few adjectives, possibly some adverbs, and an occasional participle, (preferrably not dangling). David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Feb 20 17:38:00 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 17:38:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning wire wheels Message-ID: <8095DB91-475E-4A83-A51A-CF02FF91232D@cox.net> Now that I know the proper paint for my wire wheels (Thanks again!), I need to give them a good cleaning. What does the list think is the best product to clean the grease that slides through the spokes onto the hub?? John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From jdinnis at gmail.com Fri Feb 20 17:44:59 2009 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:44:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: <270546.60373.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> <499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net> <270546.60373.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I'm in Linn County. We had to fill in the sale price on the transfer of title, and did put in $0, but they automatically computed the tax based on some sort of retail value. Didn't even ask us what it was worth. On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 3:59 PM, Kurt Johnson wrote: > What county are you in? I have transferred titles in Blackhawk, Benton, Cerro Gordo, and Des Moines Counties for more than 40 of my personal cars over the last 20+ years and only once did the County Treasurer question my declared sale price of a car or if the car was given to me free of charge.. every one of the sale prices were bogus. > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: John Innis > To: Andrew Uprichard > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 8:51:09 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV > > Iowa does the same thing to us. This is to get out of people lying > about the sale price of a vehicle. Last year my parents gave my wife > an old truck. We didn't pay a dime for it, but still had to pay Iowa > sales tax on it. > > On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:42 PM, Andrew Uprichard > wrote: >> Three weeks ago I bought a TR250 (obviously in need of total restoration) in >> PA for $750. This car had a title, so I took it into the MA DMV to pay the >> 5% sales tax. $750 x 0.05 = $37.50, right ? But no, they said the car was >> worth $3500 and made me pay $175. >> >> I guess I should have brought a picture....... >> >> Andrew Uprichard >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as jdinnis at gmail.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > > > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as kajohns64 at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca Fri Feb 20 17:58:13 2009 From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:58:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox><8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com><499E162F.8040909@newellboys.net><270546.60373.qm@web81703.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2D97147E3DE14D1C821D881C1FC48DEB@jeffgjd000xgs4> Up here in Ontario, they also have a tax grab. Used cars are taxed based on "book value", except where the car is too old to be in the book and you are forced to get an appraisal and pay for the higher of the appraisal or the purchase price. Obviously you get an appraisal before you sink a lot of $ into a resto. Jeff From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Feb 20 18:27:34 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:27:34 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires (Geo Hahn effect) Message-ID: In a message dated 2/20/2009 3:54:13 PM Central Standard Time, ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes: > As a service to the community I will avoid jinxing Vredesteins... instead > my > next victim will be Nankang, who have branded their 165/80x15s: "GeoStar". > You've always been a star in our book, Geo. ;-) Dave From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Feb 20 18:48:15 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:48:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <004a01c993b8$28350a40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <004101c993b6$291c9600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <004a01c993b8$28350a40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: However, the high voltage that forms the spark will have no > trouble going through the resistance. Randall, did you just write that volts flow? In accordance with my zero-tolerance policy regarding the belief that volts flow, I must now whomp you up side the hay-id. John "Volts Don't Flow" Herrera From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 20 19:10:29 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:10:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: References: <004101c993b6$291c9600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <004a01c993b8$28350a40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000f01c993c9$92327660$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Randall, did you just write that volts flow? Read it again, the word "flow" did not occur in my post. "Go" is a different matter, and my claim is that voltage ("volts" is only the units) does indeed "go" places (including away), even though it gets there by having some amount of current flow. > In accordance with my zero-tolerance policy regarding the belief that > volts flow, I must now whomp you up side the hay-id. No problem, John. But be advised that I have been known to whomp back! Cheez, everyone's a grammar critic today. You guys got cabin fever or something? I think I'm going to pack up, and go home to work on my car. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Feb 20 19:16:04 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:16:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Test In-Reply-To: <9C830424385C4EA3AA05F315E3A1CF97@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <499F1D94.8379.F7986C1@localhost> On 20 Feb 2009 at 10:46, Joe Curry wrote: > Sorry to bomb the list but I am having trouble with my > EMAIL server. You do mean EMAIL ferver, don't you? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Fri Feb 20 19:21:08 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:21:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires (Geo Hahn effect) In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0902201349w22b16e95p4df0e863990899e6@mail.gmail.com> References: <20090220053559.YLON27443.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall><499EBF84.60305@newellboys.net> <7bb181af0902201349w22b16e95p4df0e863990899e6@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <53FE489AA44847FA82ACAFD5C2010B89@sniffer> I got the metric sized radials from Nankang last year 165/R 15, the model number was N812. I got to put about 500 miles on them but the performed just fine, the tread pattern is very much like the XZX's. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 2:50 PM To: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires (Geo Hahn effect) My next set of tires will be in the summer of 2010 when the Michelin XZXs are retired. Expect the Kuhmos to disappear by then. As a service to the community I will avoid jinxing Vredesteins... instead my next victim will be Nankang, who have branded their 165/80x15s: "GeoStar". No joke: http://www.tireco.com/Product_Detail.asp?CateID=39&LineID=12&ProductID=221 Geo On Fri, Feb 20, 2009 at 7:34 AM, Steven Newell wrote: > Randall wrote: > > (All I'm saying is if you like Kumho Power Stars, buy a spare set >>> now.) >> >> >>> Did Geo say he didn't like them, or something ? >>> >>> >>> Ha! Maybe he ordered my Vredesteins instead. Oops... This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From fishplate at charter.net Fri Feb 20 19:34:39 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:34:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <000f01c993c9$92327660$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <20090220213439.DDSLM.554682.root@mp08> ---- Randall wrote: > > Randall, did you just write that volts flow? > > Read it again, the word "flow" did not occur in my post. > > "Go" is a different matter, and my claim is that voltage ("volts" is only > the units) does indeed "go" places (including away), even though it gets > there by having some amount of current flow. Err, I'm gonna have to throw a flag on that play. Voltage is only a measure of electrical potential relative to some arbitrary fixed point. As such, it doesn't "go" in any sense of the word that I know of. It only "is". Current, OTOH, "goes". Especially through a 30 year old light switch on a lonely road well after dark. Well, until it doesn't, anyway... Jeff Scarbrough Electricity Runs In My Family, Ga. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Feb 20 20:15:36 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 22:15:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <000f01c993c9$92327660$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <004101c993b6$291c9600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <004a01c993b8$28350a40$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <000f01c993c9$92327660$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000001c993d2$aace6cc0$006b4640$@net> YES.......you guys got must have cabin fever or something. I'll with the or something Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 9:10 PM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] New distributor cap bad? > Randall, did you just write that volts flow? Read it again, the word "flow" did not occur in my post. "Go" is a different matter, and my claim is that voltage ("volts" is only the units) does indeed "go" places (including away), even though it gets there by having some amount of current flow. > In accordance with my zero-tolerance policy regarding the belief that > volts flow, I must now whomp you up side the hay-id. No problem, John. But be advised that I have been known to whomp back! Cheez, everyone's a grammar critic today. You guys got cabin fever or something? I think I'm going to pack up, and go home to work on my car. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 20 20:25:22 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 22:25:22 EST Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV Message-ID: In a message dated 2/20/2009 5:00:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, kajohns64 at yahoo.com writes: only once did the County Treasurer question my declared sale price of a car or if the car was given to me free of charge.. every one of the sale prices were bogus. Ahem. . .welcome to the world of the Internet. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 20 22:03:11 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:03:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <20090220213439.DDSLM.554682.root@mp08> Message-ID: <20090221050311.JKHE12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Err, I'm gonna have to throw a flag on that play. Voltage is > only a measure of electrical potential relative to some > arbitrary fixed point. As such, it doesn't "go" in any sense > of the word that I know of. Really? If a capacitor discharges, for example, wouldn't you say the voltage goes away? Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 20 22:17:19 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:17:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <20090220213439.DDSLM.554682.root@mp08> Message-ID: <20090221051719.JNCT12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Voltage is > only a measure of electrical potential relative to some > arbitrary fixed point. As such, it doesn't "go" in any sense > of the word that I know of. It only "is". Merriam-Webster defines the verb "go" as 2. To move out of, or away from a place. If you start with two Leyden jars, one charged and one not charged, then touch them together, I maintain that, according to the Merriam definition, part of the voltage "goes" from one to the other. Would you also claim that an email cannot "go" because it gets translated to some other form while it's being transported? Randall From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Feb 21 02:29:42 2009 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 04:29:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cleaning wire wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7FCEBE9B-A861-40E1-B70F-F617E405B7D9@comcast.net> John, Wipe as much as you can with a rag. Then find an appropriate solvent: paraffin might work well. Then finish up with soap and water. Then take your wheels off, clean the inner surface of the hub where the spokes 'begin' really well, and apply a clear silicone caulk to the 'top' of each spoke. The caulk, if carefully applied to a clean surface, will prevent grease from exuding along the spokes. Brian From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Feb 21 06:19:08 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 08:19:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200902210819.08978.yellowtr@adelphia.net> I have never had a problem here in Central NY. I show then the bill of sale and that is how the tax is computed. The only problem is we are the highest taxed county in the country. No photos, inspections etc are required. Just the title or previous registration signed over + the mileage declaration. But since the VIN #s are so old, they are not in their "database" and have to go ask the supervisor what to do. I believe the VIN # check is to see if it is stolen. When I registered my 63 TR4 a few years ago, this process took about 1/2 hour and the clerk just kept shaking her head like she didn't think the Ohio title was valid. But she finally said ok and away I went with my new plates. Bob From fishplate at charter.net Sat Feb 21 08:14:21 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 10:14:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <20090221050311.JKHE12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall > References: <20090220213439.DDSLM.554682.root@mp08> <20090221050311.JKHE12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20090221152155.VUYG21772.mta31.charter.net@imp09> At 12:03 AM 2/21/2009, Randall wrote: > > Err, I'm gonna have to throw a flag on that play. Voltage is > > only a measure of electrical potential relative to some > > arbitrary fixed point. As such, it doesn't "go" in any sense > > of the word that I know of. > >Really? If a capacitor discharges, for example, wouldn't you say the >voltage goes away? Nope. The potential changes to zero. (Keep trying, though...) Jeff Scarbrough The Who, Ga. From fishplate at charter.net Sat Feb 21 08:21:38 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 10:21:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <20090221051719.JNCT12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall > References: <20090220213439.DDSLM.554682.root@mp08> <20090221051719.JNCT12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20090221152200.VUZJ21772.mta31.charter.net@imp09> At 12:17 AM 2/21/2009, Randall wrote: > > Voltage is > > only a measure of electrical potential relative to some > > arbitrary fixed point. As such, it doesn't "go" in any sense > > of the word that I know of. It only "is". > >Merriam-Webster defines the verb "go" as > >2. To move out of, or away from a place. Neither Merriam nor Webster were Engineers. Potential is static. When it goes, it's translated into kinetic. Voltage is potential - static, not kinetic. >If you start with two Leyden jars, one charged and one not charged, then >touch them together, I maintain that, according to the Merriam definition, >part of the voltage "goes" from one to the other. If you multiply 2 times 0.5, where does the 2 go? >Would you also claim that an email cannot "go" because it gets translated to >some other form while it's being transported? No, because the electrons flow from the recipient to the sender. But the potential of an email is high when it is sent, but usually low when it is received. Jeff Scarbrough Galvanic Activity, Ga. From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Sat Feb 21 09:05:45 2009 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 08:05:45 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling Message-ID: <675678.72251.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I am anticipating that winter will eventually end and would like to get some work done on my TR3A. TS75434L has a tendency to run just a little hot, even up in the cool mountains of northern new mexico. I imagine the original radiator is getting a little tired, but I would like to avoid replacing it for a while longer. It looks like I have two options to help out the underperforming radiator: 1. The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in. Moss sells a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed yellow fan. Cost: $240 2. Remove fan altogether and go electric. My guess is this will get the most airflow going. But will I miss the old fan and rush of air sound? I feel like I might be taking something away from the car by removing the fan. Cost: Less than $200. Well, there might be an option 3: rebuild the water pump with a high flow impeller. Is this worth it? I'm not running any additives in the coolant (aside from anitfreeze). Is water wetter or any other additive worth it to help the system cool a little better? TIA - Richard From Loumetelko at aol.com Sat Feb 21 09:15:42 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 11:15:42 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A springs Message-ID: Terry: For the last dozen or so years whenever Randall insists on using two plus syllable words, the list police threatens to take away his thesaurus. That usually thwarts him for a couple months or so. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From Loumetelko at aol.com Sat Feb 21 09:48:17 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 11:48:17 EST Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling Message-ID: Richard: The fourth option is the only one that will work. Pull out that tired radiator and have it re cored. BTW the high flow impeller is a waste of time, effort and money. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana 54 TR2LD In a message dated 2/21/2009 11:31:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rtriplett25 at yahoo.com writes: It looks like I have two options to help out the underperforming radiator: 1. The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in. Moss sells a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed yellow fan. Cost: $240 2. Remove fan altogether and go electric. My guess is this will get the most airflow going. But will I miss the old fan and rush of air sound? I feel like I might be taking something away from the car by removing the fan. Cost: Less than $200. Well, there might be an option 3: rebuild the water pump with a high flow impeller. Is this worth it? TIA - Richard _______________________________________________ **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 21 09:59:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 08:59:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling In-Reply-To: <675678.72251.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090221165954.PAJU12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > TS75434L has a > tendency to run just a little hot, even up in the cool > mountains of northern new mexico. There are many different reasons for these engines to run hot, so whether a particular change will help or not depends a great deal on what the problem is. The problem with TS39781LO turned out to be that the radiator tubes were not in good thermal contact with the fins, so it was simply unable to transfer much heat from the water to the air. If you mean it runs hot at speed, then IMO changes to the fan are not going to help. My experience has always been that the fan does little or nothing at highway speeds. My TR3A had a big electric fan (you could literally see the temp gauge move when the fan came on at idle); but when I had similar problems with the temperature creeping up at speed, running the fan made no detectable difference. Same story on the Stag (although it's temporary electric fan didn't cool as well at idle). > Well, there might be an option 3: rebuild the water pump with > a high flow impeller. Is this worth it? I didn't try that, but I've heard mixed reports from others. My belief is that it would be of marginal benefit at ordinary highway speeds. But others have said it helped with their problem. > I'm not running any additives in the coolant (aside from > anitfreeze). Is water wetter or any other additive worth it > to help the system cool a little better? I could not tell that Water Wetter made any difference whatsoever. But it's cheap enough to be worth a try; and I've heard at least one story where it helped. Just for completeness, you missed switching to a sleeved thermostat, or blocking the thermostat bypass. Again, those made no detectable difference for me, but others have said it worked for them. (If you do block the bypass, I strongly suggest that you also drill a hole in your thermostat, so some water still flows when the thermostat is cold. Otherwise the thermal shock when the thermostat opens can lead to a cracked head.) After months of experimentation and frustration with my TR3A; my suggestion is to bite the bullet and have the radiator recored or replaced. In my case, the difference was like night and day. Before the change, I could not drive 70 mph for over 15 miles in even 70F weather. Afterwards it stayed cool even at 90+ mph in 115F. Randall From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Feb 21 10:02:35 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 11:02:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling In-Reply-To: <675678.72251.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <675678.72251.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090221170315.07C9618764D@autox.team.net> Is the shroud between the radiator and the grill of the car intact? That part makes a huge difference in the efficiency (while the car is moving, anyway). If the problem is getting hot while sitting still, then working on the fan is an excellent idea - but I don't have input on which fan option is better. - Tony Drews At 10:05 AM 2/21/2009, richard triplett wrote: >I am anticipating that winter will eventually end and would like to >get some work done on my TR3A. TS75434L has a tendency to run just a >little hot, even up in the cool mountains of northern new mexico. I >imagine the original radiator is getting a little tired, but I would >like to avoid replacing it for a while longer. It looks like I have >two options to help out the underperforming radiator: > >1. The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in. >Moss sells a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed >yellow fan. Cost: $240 > >2. Remove fan altogether and go electric. My guess is this will get >the most airflow going. But will I miss the old fan and rush of air >sound? I feel like I might be taking something away from the car by >removing the fan. Cost: Less than $200. > >Well, there might be an option 3: rebuild the water pump with a high >flow impeller. Is this worth it? > >I'm not running any additives in the coolant (aside from >anitfreeze). Is water wetter or any other additive worth it to help >the system cool a little better? > >TIA - Richard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 21 10:02:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 09:02:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] New distributor cap bad? In-Reply-To: <20090221152200.VUZJ21772.mta31.charter.net@imp09> Message-ID: <20090221170300.HWFU20000.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Neither Merriam nor Webster were Engineers. That's OK, neither are most of the people on this list. > If you multiply 2 times 0.5, where does the 2 go? It goes into 1, 0.5 times. > >Would you also claim that an email cannot "go" because it gets > >translated to some other form while it's being transported? > > No, because the electrons flow from the recipient to the > sender. But the potential of an email is high when it is > sent, but usually low when it is received. Which mirrors the thought experiment with the Leyden jars exactly! Randall From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Feb 21 11:06:50 2009 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:06:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Cooling In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <199E4A56-1F9C-43FB-BB2C-B77906B37476@comcast.net> Richard, Rather than start by spending $$$, check first if the radiator is redeemable with a bloody good flush. Back-flushing is more effective than flushing in the direction that the system circulates, but it requires removing the radiator - not the hardest of tasks. Remove and invert the radiator and flush it with running water from a garden hose until the water runs clear. Shake the rad while the water is flowing. For added effect, if they do what it says on the tin, try one of the flushing products that dissolve crud to assist the flushing process. You may also find value in flushing the block. Each season, I flush the rad, block and heater as three separate units so that I don't wash crud from one unit into the other. You might be surprised to see how much crud washes out if the system if it hasn't been flushed for a while. If you are still overheating, then look to improve airflow. There has been some discussion that the high flow impellers are not more effective than the original as they can cause cavitation. Brian Valley Forge > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 08:05:45 -0800 (PST) > From: richard triplett > Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <675678.72251.qm at web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > I am anticipating that winter will eventually end and would like to > get some work done on my TR3A. TS75434L has a tendency to run just a > little hot, even up in the cool mountains of northern new mexico. I > imagine the original radiator is getting a little tired, but I would > like to avoid replacing it for a while longer. It looks like I have > two options to help out the underperforming radiator: > > 1. The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in. > Moss sells a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed > yellow fan. Cost: $240 > > 2. Remove fan altogether and go electric. My guess is this will get > the most airflow going. But will I miss the old fan and rush of air > sound? I feel like I might be taking something away from the car by > removing the fan. Cost: Less than $200. > > Well, there might be an option 3: rebuild the water pump with a high > flow impeller. Is this worth it? > > I'm not running any additives in the coolant (aside from > anitfreeze). Is water wetter or any other additive worth it to help > the system cool a little better? > > TIA - Richard From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Sat Feb 21 11:48:50 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:48:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Large Stash of NOS Lucas Parts Message-ID: <23513958.1235242130632.JavaMail.root@elwamui-chisos.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FYI, Best, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Michael Balch in Des Moins This is a website for a company that recently purchased a 2 story warehose full of NOS auto parts. Appears to be mostly vintage Lucas from the 1950s to the 1980s. You can go on the website and see pictures of what they have inventoried so far. If you want something, you send you them an e-mail and they will list it on EBAY. Some of the parts are already listed on EBAY. You may want to pass this on to the British car clubs/folks you know. http://maxwell-thomas.com/default.aspx Mike From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Feb 21 12:13:24 2009 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:13:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: tr3 cooling Message-ID: <002b01c99458$7826ee60$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 cooling > Richard, > > My TR3 with a fresh engine and new radiator core ran a "little hot", but > never lost coolant. Very frustrating. Bought an infrared thermometer at > Sears and found that the engine temp was fine, 185 or below. The problem > was/is a temp gauge that reads about 30 degrees high. > > So, if your TR is not losing water, I'd check the accuracy of the gauge > first. > > Ed Woods And I might mention that the '3's bypass is not blocked, the thermostat is not sleeved, water wetter didn't seem to make a difference, and the pump is a rebuilt stock unit. From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Feb 21 11:55:30 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 11:55:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling In-Reply-To: <675678.72251.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <675678.72251.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I had my radiator recorded for a couple hundred dollars & it made a significant difference here in Phoenix. For a couple dollars more the radiator shop put a piece of angle stock on both side for solid mounting of the electric fan. Even in our common 115F summer days the car seldom gets about 185F. I also had the shop put on a modern cap neck that is designed to be used with an overflow bottle. http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/radiator.html I also put an air dam based on the advice of fellow Arizonian Geo Hahn. http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/Air-Dam.html And last I had a the shop install a bung in the top of the radiator that would allow for the use of a modern electronic thermostat to control the electric fan. also see http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/radiator.html John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net Sat Feb 21 12:37:53 2009 From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:37:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] shocks TR3 Message-ID: <7747176595FE4080812314E146928425@FrederickLight> I am assembling my front suspension and took my new shocks from Moss out of the box. I am able to compress them easily between my two hands. I have never seen shocks this easy to compress. Am I missing something here or are these , made in India, shocks no good TIA Fred TS57038 From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net Sat Feb 21 14:38:47 2009 From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 16:38:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Just curious Message-ID: <2469AF3E94A54C689F596D2B8322BC99@FrederickLight> Anyone know why a TR3 has metric and SAE bolts? Fred TS57038 From wbeech at flash.net Sat Feb 21 14:48:17 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:48:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling In-Reply-To: <675678.72251.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <675678.72251.qm@web53406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: IF you want to keep you TR as original as possible and you can find one, there was a six-blade fan offered for the TR4s for use in hotter climates. Moss lists it, 834-010 Tropical Fan, as N/A but they can be found if you are diligent. Moss even shows a, 834-880 repro tropical fan but alas it is N/A as well. Once you see it and compare it to the 4-blade TR3 fan it will become apparent that it should move 2x the air. I have a picture of mine, available off-list on request. At present this stands to be the only non-TR3 part on my restoration. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard triplett Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 9:06 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling I am anticipating that winter will eventually end and would like to get some work done on my TR3A. TS75434L has a tendency to run just a little hot, even up in the cool mountains of northern new mexico. I imagine the original radiator is getting a little tired, but I would like to avoid replacing it for a while longer. It looks like I have two options to help out the underperforming radiator: 1. The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in. Moss sells a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed yellow fan. Cost: $240 2. Remove fan altogether and go electric. My guess is this will get the most airflow going. But will I miss the old fan and rush of air sound? I feel like I might be taking something away from the car by removing the fan. Cost: Less than $200. Well, there might be an option 3: rebuild the water pump with a high flow impeller. Is this worth it? I'm not running any additives in the coolant (aside from anitfreeze). Is water wetter or any other additive worth it to help the system cool a little better? TIA - Richard This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From wbmcleod at gmail.com Sat Feb 21 15:21:56 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (Bill McLeod) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 15:21:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Just curious In-Reply-To: <2469AF3E94A54C689F596D2B8322BC99@FrederickLight> References: <2469AF3E94A54C689F596D2B8322BC99@FrederickLight> Message-ID: <49A07E84.8090901@gmail.com> It could only be a dumb previous owner. The TR3 never had any metric bolts. Bill Slightly Classics Tucson Frederick M Light wrote: > Anyone know why a TR3 has metric and SAE bolts? > > Fred TS57038 > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 21 15:37:36 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:37:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] Just curious In-Reply-To: <2469AF3E94A54C689F596D2B8322BC99@FrederickLight> Message-ID: <20090221223736.UBII12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Anyone know why a TR3 has metric and SAE bolts? Probably the same reason my American cars have a mixture of metric and SAE. Randall From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Sat Feb 21 16:31:52 2009 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 17:31:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] Seat rails Message-ID: <9282207D-839E-4326-BA7B-1E7733D888DA@sbcglobal.net> I am restoring my seats and am wondering what anyone has done to clean- up/restore the seat rails? Do the sliding parts come apart? Thanks Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO From DLylis at aol.com Sat Feb 21 17:05:10 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 19:05:10 EST Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling Message-ID: In a message dated 2/21/2009 11:31:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rtriplett25 at yahoo.com writes: The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in. Moss sells a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed yellow fan. Cost: $240 Wow. I have a yellow fan on my TR3A, two friends have yellow fans on their TR3A, and none of us paid $240 to get this done. I just mounted the yellow fan and then moved the radiator forward as much as possible by elongating the holes. This is may be 1/8", tops, and it works fine. IMHO this conversion kit is not necessary. As to the recore, you are talking about some fairly serious $. The price of this job has gone way up in the last couple of years. What I found in my motor, and I understand that it is fairly common, is that the coolant passages in cyliner #4 get plugged up with crud over the years. A good way to get an idea on this is to open the drain cock on the block by cylinder #4. If nothing comes out it is a pretty good indication that this is a contributing factor. If I were you I would put on a yellow fan, flush the cooling system, see what results you get and then go for the next step. If you do the work yourself you are looking at some short money. As well, check your timing and make sure it is not contributing to overheat. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From mmoore8425 at aol.com Sat Feb 21 17:28:57 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (mmoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 19:28:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB629BAF6711A6-D74-D67@MBLK-M01.sysops.aol.com> I've tried different things on my TR. I currently have an al radiator standing by to in installl. It seems to be doing pretty good with the newest Moss rad and my Kenlowe fan. I intalled tjhe Kenlowe fan nside the front apron on the aluminum tube Kenlowe supplies. I was able to mount it very close the core. I left the existing fan in place . One problem with the TR cooling system is that the fan moves very slowly at idle as it runs on the crankshaft at engine speed. Mike Moore -----Original Message----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 4:05 pm Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 cooling In a message dated 2/21/2009 11:31:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rtriplett25 at yahoo.com writes: The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in. Moss sells a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed yellow fan. Cost: $240 Wow. I have a yellow fan on my TR3A, two friends have yellow fans on their TR3A, and none of us paid $240 to get this done. I just mounted the yellow fan and then moved the radiator forward as much as possible by elongating the holes. This is may be 1/8", tops, and it works fine. IMHO this conversion kit is not necessary. As to the recore, you are talking about some fairly serious $. The price of this job has gone way up in the last couple of years. What I found in my motor, and I understand that it is fairly common, is that the coolant passages in cyliner #4 get plugged up with crud over the years. A good way to get an idea on this is to open the drain cock on the block by cylinder #4. If nothing comes out it is a pretty good indication that this is a contributing factor. If I were you I would put on a yellow fan, flush the cooling system, see what results you get and then go for the next step. If you do the work yourself you are looking at some short money. As well, check your timing and make sure it is not contributing to overheat. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From staffel at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 00:26:06 2009 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 07:26:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 cooling In-Reply-To: <210858493.1147901235287476556.JavaMail.root@sz0142a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1747130426.1148031235287566295.JavaMail.root@sz0142a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Richard: During restoration, removed my TR4 metal fan & hub extension, installed puller elec fan, temp probe sensor and manual override switches. Even on 99^ day, do not have to put on elec fan until 4.5 mins has passed at stop light. Fan not whirling all the time means less dust,leaves, debree enters engine bay. Still have original radiator (same as TR3), Be sure to add 'Harmonic balancer- same bolt as a Ford 351 I think it was. In early years (1969-1972) drove TR4 from Okla to Albq/Taos often- and never had cooling problems. Sherman D Taffel Columbia MD http://home.comcast.net/~staffel/TR4restoration.html http://home.comcast.net/~staffel/alternatorconversion.html http://home.comcast.net/~staffel/electricfanconversion.html From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sun Feb 22 06:41:32 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 08:41:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 cooling References: <1747130426.1148031235287566295.JavaMail.root@sz0142a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <8AB5091A252C461B895DE4EA4ECF083F@userb38463fba5> Folks, Lots of interesting information as it relates to cooling and the elimination of the engine driven fan. All good information too. I'd like to add to that with some personal experirnces. I eliminated the mechanical fan on my 4A and saw an improvement in overall vibration that was caused by the mechanical fan at higher speeds. I liked that. There is a down side and it hasn't been discussed. Without an engine driven fan there is considerable under hood heat build up at slow speed in traffic or of course while stopped at a light or stop and go traffic conjestion. At slow speed the engine fan keeps air moving uder the hood where an electric fan does not if it doesn't turn on immediately. That lack of air circulation resulted in my case to vapor locking. Remember; our carbs sit right above the exhaust manifold and heat rises. My system uses a temperature sensor installed in the top tank of the radiator and is set to come on at approx 185. I run a 160 thermostat (original sleeved type which came with my car when I bought the car in 1969). It turns off at something below 175 as I recall. So if I find myself in heavy traffic I need to remember to manually turn the fan on or I'll have bigger problems in a very short time. There is a thin line between vapor lock or not and once it occurs the only thing that resolves it is getting the car moving at something over 25mph. to get under hood air circulation again and cool the fuel. I added one of Joe Alexander's SS Heat Shields too and that made a significant improvement towards keeping the carb float bowls cooler. So if you experience vapor lock in traffic and have an electric fan conversion you may try remembering to manually turn on your fan and install a heat shield. JVV From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Feb 22 09:25:18 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:25:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3/TR4 cooling In-Reply-To: <8AB5091A252C461B895DE4EA4ECF083F@userb38463fba5> References: <1747130426.1148031235287566295.JavaMail.root@sz0142a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <8AB5091A252C461B895DE4EA4ECF083F@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <428FF453EFEC4CFDB81DBFC6958155C4@BOBSNEWPC> Jerry, A simple solution is to put in a 3-way switch for your fan: on, off and auto-on. If it looks like I'm going to be stuck in traffic, I'll flip the fan on and just let it run. I also like having the option of turning the fan off so that it doesn't come on if I'm working under the hood. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 8:42 AM To: staffel at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Subject: Re: [TR] TR3/TR4 cooling Folks, Lots of interesting information as it relates to cooling and the elimination of the engine driven fan. All good information too. I'd like to add to that with some personal experirnces. I eliminated the mechanical fan on my 4A and saw an improvement in overall vibration that was caused by the mechanical fan at higher speeds. I liked that. There is a down side and it hasn't been discussed. Without an engine driven fan there is considerable under hood heat build up at slow speed in traffic or of course while stopped at a light or stop and go traffic conjestion. At slow speed the engine fan keeps air moving uder the hood where an electric fan does not if it doesn't turn on immediately. That lack of air circulation resulted in my case to vapor locking. Remember; our carbs sit right above the exhaust manifold and heat rises. My system uses a temperature sensor installed in the top tank of the radiator and is set to come on at approx 185. I run a 160 thermostat (original sleeved type which came with my car when I bought the car in 1969). It turns off at something below 175 as I recall. So if I find myself in heavy traffic I need to remember to manually turn the fan on or I'll have bigger problems in a very short time. There is a thin line between vapor lock or not and once it occurs the only thing that resolves it is getting the car moving at something over 25mph. to get under hood air circulation again and cool the fuel. I added one of Joe Alexander's SS Heat Shields too and that made a significant improvement towards keeping the carb float bowls cooler. So if you experience vapor lock in traffic and have an electric fan conversion you may try remembering to manually turn on your fan and install a heat shield. JVV This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From eoot at citlink.net Sun Feb 22 09:37:38 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:37:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling References: Message-ID: <001a01c9950b$dffe3e90$690a0a0a@WANDERER> David, Could you clear something up for me, as in searching the archives on the yellow fan discussions I'm a bit confused. I have the front apron off my 3A to rebuild the steering box. With the parts that came from the PO when I got the car was a 6 blade yellow fan that the PO never got around to installing. I had told myself that if/when I had the apron off I would do it. I understand from your comment that it is not necessary to buy an installation kit. Did you mount the fan forward or backward as I have seen discussion about this. Also, moving the rad just 1/8 of an inch provided the necessary clearance? How much clearance did that give you? Did you need to modify the fan in any other way (one previous post mentioned having to notch the blades to clear the lower part rad tank. Any other tips, suggestions, observations are much appreciated. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 7:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 cooling > In a message dated 2/21/2009 11:31:02 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > rtriplett25 at yahoo.com writes: > > The original fan doesn't seem to do the best job drawing air in. Moss > sells > a conversion kit that fits the much-improved six bladed yellow fan. Cost: > $240 > > > > Wow. I have a yellow fan on my TR3A, two friends have yellow fans on > their > TR3A, and none of us paid $240 to get this done. I just mounted the > yellow > fan and then moved the radiator forward as much as possible by elongating > the > holes. This is may be 1/8", tops, and it works fine. IMHO this > conversion > kit is not necessary. > As to the recore, you are talking about some fairly serious $. The price > of > this job has gone way up in the last couple of years. > What I found in my motor, and I understand that it is fairly common, is > that > the coolant passages in cyliner #4 get plugged up with crud over the > years. > A good way to get an idea on this is to open the drain cock on the block > by > cylinder #4. If nothing comes out it is a pretty good indication that > this > is a contributing factor. > If I were you I would put on a yellow fan, flush the cooling system, see > what results you get and then go for the next step. If you do the work > yourself > you are looking at some short money. > > As well, check your timing and make sure it is not contributing to > overheat. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose > how > to find them. Start with AOL Personals. > (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mathews at uga.edu Sun Feb 22 11:02:37 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:02:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cooling Message-ID: <49A1933D.30206@uga.edu> Folks, I subscribe to Auto Restorer and there was a letter someone wrote in on overheating. It sounds reasonable so I'll summarize and pass on and you engineers on the list can let us know if it is correct or full of "hot water"! I quote here: "The rate of heat transfer from the block to the water circulating through the block is based on the following equation: Q=mc(Tblock-Twater), where Q= the rate of heat transfer, m = the circulating water flow rate, c = the specific heat of water, Tblock = temperature of the water jacket walls, Twater = temperature of the water flowing through the block." The writer goes on to say and here I paraphrase..../"if specific heat of the h2o is constant then the rate of transfer of heat from block to the circulating water depends on the flow rate and the temp difference of the block and the circulating water. If radiator is doing its job and flow is increased, more heat is transferred from the block/(better pump)/. If flow is constant then a radiator with increased cooling capacity would be the answer to increased cooling capacity/." So I deduce that you'd better start with a good radiator! Doug From don at napanet.net Sun Feb 22 11:22:01 2009 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 10:22:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] Unusual or odd? Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090222100204.03307d40@pop.napanet.net> This 1956 Triumph Vanguard just appeared on eBay. Unusual model of Triumph in what appears to be excellent condition. The styling almost looks like it came from the USSR or other east-bloc nation where they copied US cars but ended up with a distorted looking product. The taillight styling was borrowed from a '52 Ford; the liberal use of chromium and the two-colour scheme are imitative of many US cars of that era. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-1956-Triumph-Standard-Vanguard-3-Sportsman_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ120381984669QQsspagenameZRSSQ3aBQ3aSRCHQ3aUSQ3a101 _____________________________________________ Don Scott 1991 Miata SE BRG 1962 MGA Mk II 1973 MGB GT 1962 TR4 (searching for) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.552 / Virus Database: 270.10.25/1955 - Release Date: 02/16/2009 6:55 AM From jerrann at shaw.ca Sun Feb 22 11:31:36 2009 From: jerrann at shaw.ca (Jerry) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 10:31:36 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Cooling & Cooking Message-ID: <3705FAFDAAB84518A2FC20CA57810F6B@BASECAMP> Nobody has mentioned that running the fuel mix too lean causes the engine to run hotter. Some folks make adjustments to their fuel mix for emissions or power improvement reasons but are not aware of or forget that this has an impact on the engine temperatures. The trouble is that there is no simple gauge to tell us how close the mixture is to what we desire. The test for this is relatively simple. First, take a test drive paying attention to the temp gauge and performance and get the temperature up to the point that you think is too hot and then return to your starting point (garage). Second, is to make your fuel mix more rich by adjusting each jet by 2 or 3 flats. Third, take another test drive over the same route at the same speeds. If the engine runs just as hot on the second pass then reset the mixture to where you had it before and work on your cooling system following the suggestions given earlier. If the engine ran cooler then you have at least solved a part of the problem. On the electric fan issue, I have always had an electric fan (tens years) and I like it. With experience, I found the best control setup to be automatically controlled with a thermostat and a dash mounted "on" switch. I do not have an "off" switch position that prevents the thermostat from operating the fan, because I know that one day I would forget to enable the fan and end up cooking the engine. I also no longer have the fan wired so that it runs after the car is parked. There is no need as the latent heat will dissipate evenly and at a safe rate. Cheers, Jerry TR3A From triumphstag at gmail.com Sun Feb 22 12:14:33 2009 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 11:14:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. Message-ID: I'm trying to start my Stag, but I have no signs that it wants to start. I got a few pops last night, but nothing today. WIll two old year gasoline prevent my car from starting? Battery fully charged. I have fuel getting into the LH carb as I had to take the float cover off to fix a leak. I'm not sure abo the RH carb. Other than checking the float bowl fro fuel how sure can I be that fuel is getting into the cylinders. Fuel pump is pumping. I have the timing approximately statically set to 12 degree before tdc. I have Luminition and a spark is present. How off can the timing before it won't start at all? This is the 3rd time I've adjusted he timing in the many years I've own the car. so I think I'm doing that right. Sujit From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Feb 22 12:24:16 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:24:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] PERTRONIX ASSUMPTION? Message-ID: <00cf01c99523$2b503300$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> iT'S nice outdoors and I will take advantage of the weather to install my used POSITIVE GROUND PERTRONIX ELECTRONIC IGNITION. I bought this on Ebay from a fellow listee and I am sure it is a good unit. (He had just converted his ignition from + ground to - ground and no longer needed this unit). In fact, one day in the FUTURE I wish to also make this conversion, AND SO I also have a BRAND NEW UNINSTALLED NEGATIVE GROUND PERTRONIX IGNITOR which I ordered from JEGS. I have a head injury and my hands shake, so, setting points correctly is very difficult (also I barely know what I'm doing). I wish to go ahead and install the Ebay Positive Ground Pertronix to overcome this. I have thoroughly compared both + and - units and found the ONLY DIFFERENCE between them is the little electronic module with the 2 wires coming out of it (this makes sense!). However, the only set of instructions I have are for a NEGATIVE GROUND UNIT AND THUS ARE KINDA 'WRONG'. Specifically, the DIFFERENCE IS THE NEGATIVE GROUND MODULE HAS BOTH A RED AND A BLACK WIRE coming out of it, while the POSITIVE GROUND UNIT HAS BOTH TWO BLACK WIRES. Those Wrong instructions say "first hook up the red wire to the positive side of the coil", but HARK!!! I have no red wire. However, by closely comparing both + and - ground modules, I see that the red wire exits the module UNDER the black wire and therefore the red wire is also closest to the mounting metal on this little module. THEREFORE, I AM MAKING AN ASSUMPTION TO USE THE BOTTOM BLACK WIRE ON THE TWO-BLACK-WIRE- UNIT (which is Pos. Ground) as "supposedly red" and hook it to the pos. side of the coil (as per the wrong instructions). Hopefully, this will not 'fry' the unit. If someone knows this to be wrong please tell me quickly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Although this email sounds confusing, but anyone would follow this method! I am 99% sure! Thanks, Paul Dorsey sUNDAY AT TWO O'CLOCK From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 22 12:25:39 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:25:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Unusual or odd? References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090222100204.03307d40@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <001501c99523$7b2a3f10$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> is it just me or does the bottom of the car totally scare you about the rest of it? another case of rare but not valuable. $9 grand???????? and, btw, I didn't know they used SI carbs. . . . > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-1956-Triumph-Standard-Vanguard-3-Sportsman_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ120381984669QQsspagenameZRSSQ3aBQ3aSRCHQ3aUSQ3a101 From spitlist at cox.net Sun Feb 22 12:33:18 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:33:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5EF9239A8D5B4649B227963B9C3E8A6D@joepentiumnew> Unless you use fuel stabilizer, I believe that 2 year old gasoline, can indeed cause the car not to start. Smell it. If it stinks to high heaven, drain the tank and put in some new guel. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sujit roy Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 12:15 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. I'm trying to start my Stag, but I have no signs that it wants to start. I got a few pops last night, but nothing today. WIll two old year gasoline prevent my car from starting? Battery fully charged. I have fuel getting into the LH carb as I had to take the float cover off to fix a leak. I'm not sure abo the RH carb. Other than checking the float bowl fro fuel how sure can I be that fuel is getting into the cylinders. Fuel pump is pumping. I have the timing approximately statically set to 12 degree before tdc. I have Luminition and a spark is present. How off can the timing before it won't start at all? This is the 3rd time I've adjusted he timing in the many years I've own the car. so I think I'm doing that right. Sujit This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From fishplate at charter.net Sun Feb 22 12:34:42 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:34:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20090222193435.OPKZ21265.mta11.charter.net@imp11> At 02:14 PM 2/22/2009, sujit roy wrote: >I'm trying to start my Stag, but I have no signs that it wants to start. I >got a few pops last night, but nothing today. > >WIll two old year gasoline prevent my car from starting? Very possible, especially if you are in a damp climate. >Battery fully charged. >I have fuel getting into the LH carb as I had to take the float cover off to >fix a leak. I'm not sure abo the RH carb. Other than checking the float bowl >fro fuel how sure can I be that fuel is getting into the cylinders. Spray some WD40 into the carb throat, then crank as before...it's like ether, but with extra lubrication. >I have the timing approximately statically set to 12 degree before tdc. I >have Luminition and a spark is present. How off can the timing before it >won't start at all? If it's close, it will try to start, or at least pop on a consistent basis. I'd change the fuel, and then make sure fresh fuel is available at the carb. I have been known to rig an alternative fuel source by attaching a length of fuel hose to the pump inlet and sticking the other end in a gas can set on a stool (so the pump needn't draw uphill too much). Drain the fuel bowls, then let them refill with fresh gas. Be sure to let the starter cool for a minute or two after each thirty seconds of cranking. Or, if you're in Saskatchewan, just open the garage door and crank away. Of course, there is a definite risk of fire when attempting foolishness like this, so be aware - you do have a properly rated fire extinguisher to hand when you're doing this, right? Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Feb 22 12:40:22 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:40:22 EST Subject: [TR] Spark plug torque Message-ID: Hey Guys, How many of you torque your spark plugs to the specified 20 ft. lbs? Before today I have to admit that I never have done that. Since the age of 14 or so I have always used the grunt torque method for this task. Age has now weakened my grunt too no doubt. Today whilst installing a fresh set of Bosch Platinum Plus plugs in the TR6 I noticed a diagram on the box that showed a wrench that indicated 21 ft lbs. torque. OK so I got my Snap On out and set it at 21. Whoa, that's tight. Drop back five and punt dude before you screw it up! That's way tight for my grunt. But dang right there in the official Triumph TR6 Repair Operations Manual is a setting for 20 ft lbs. for spark plug attachment. I guess that's right? Do you suppose this is why all my Triumphs seem to have lean running decease? No way, this can't be that important. I for sure have never tightened plugs this tight. Also since I am always fooling around, I am sure that I am crushing that compression washer several times that should only be crushed once, correct? Old wives tale? Cheers, Darrell **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Feb 22 12:49:53 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:49:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. References: <5EF9239A8D5B4649B227963B9C3E8A6D@joepentiumnew> Message-ID: <48B3954F90494484A0FD8460009FFCB2@mikeslaptop> I think we found a new companion word for fluif... Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" > Smell it. If it stinks to high heaven, drain the tank and put in some new > guel. > > Joe From spitlist at cox.net Sun Feb 22 13:01:02 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:01:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: <48B3954F90494484A0FD8460009FFCB2@mikeslaptop> References: <5EF9239A8D5B4649B227963B9C3E8A6D@joepentiumnew> <48B3954F90494484A0FD8460009FFCB2@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: Whatever! -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr [mailto:mmarr at notwires.com] Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 12:50 PM To: Joe Curry; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. I think we found a new companion word for fluif... Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" > Smell it. If it stinks to high heaven, drain the tank and put in some new > guel. > > Joe From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Feb 22 13:10:49 2009 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:10:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. References: <5EF9239A8D5B4649B227963B9C3E8A6D@joepentiumnew> <48B3954F90494484A0FD8460009FFCB2@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <069F2C7F2C9A46A88B5A4B391AF39DC9@mikeslaptop> Don't you mean qhatever? Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'Michael Marr'" ; "'Triumphs'" Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 2:01 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. > Whatever! From spitlist at cox.net Sun Feb 22 13:13:37 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:13:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: <069F2C7F2C9A46A88B5A4B391AF39DC9@mikeslaptop> References: <5EF9239A8D5B4649B227963B9C3E8A6D@joepentiumnew> <48B3954F90494484A0FD8460009FFCB2@mikeslaptop> <069F2C7F2C9A46A88B5A4B391AF39DC9@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <6E500D848B93456EAC3756BFF5B621E3@joepentiumnew> I mean it is nice to know that someone actually reads this crap even if it is to look for typos! -----Original Message----- From: Michael Marr [mailto:mmarr at notwires.com] Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 1:11 PM To: Joe Curry; 'Triumphs' Subject: Re: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. Don't you mean qhatever? Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'Michael Marr'" ; "'Triumphs'" Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 2:01 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. > Whatever! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Feb 22 13:33:27 2009 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:33:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A1B697.9020108@tscusa.org> sujit roy wrote: > I'm trying to start my Stag, but I have no signs that it wants to start. I > got a few pops last night, but nothing today. > > > WIll two old year gasoline prevent my car from starting? > Battery fully charged. > I have fuel getting into the LH carb as I had to take the float cover off to > fix a leak. I'm not sure abo the RH carb. Other than checking the float bowl > fro fuel how sure can I be that fuel is getting into the cylinders. > > Fuel pump is pumping. > > I have the timing approximately statically set to 12 degree before tdc. I > have Luminition and a spark is present. How off can the timing before it > won't start at all? > This is the 3rd time I've adjusted he timing in the many years I've own the > car. so I think I'm doing that right. > > > Sujit > > Hi Sujit, I responded on the Stag list also, make sure you are timing TDC to #2 on the Stag V8, and make sure you are not 180 degrees out. Here is the diagram: [img]http://www.triumphstag.net/start/technical/partslist/images/03-04.gif[/img] -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 60TR3A at cox.net Sun Feb 22 13:40:11 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 13:40:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My test is t0 squirt a little starting fluid in the carbs & then try to start it. If it runs for the few seconds then I figure it is fuel problem. If it does not even pop with the starter fluid then I assume it is an ignition problem. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ On 22 Feb, 2009, at 12:14 PM, sujit roy wrote: > I'm trying to start my Stag, but I have no signs that it wants to > start. I > got a few pops last night, but nothing today. > > > WIll two old year gasoline prevent my car from starting? > Battery fully charged. > I have fuel getting into the LH carb as I had to take the float > cover off to > fix a leak. I'm not sure abo the RH carb. Other than checking the > float bowl > fro fuel how sure can I be that fuel is getting into the cylinders. > > Fuel pump is pumping. > > I have the timing approximately statically set to 12 degree before > tdc. I > have Luminition and a spark is present. How off can the timing > before it > won't start at all? > This is the 3rd time I've adjusted he timing in the many years I've > own the > car. so I think I'm doing that right. > > > Sujit > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sun Feb 22 14:26:45 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 16:26:45 EST Subject: [TR] Unusual or odd? Message-ID: In a message dated 2/22/2009 2:25:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: is it just me or does the bottom of the car totally scare you about the rest of it? ==AM== That doesn't bother me at all; it's just an unrestored undercarriage! ==AM== another case of rare but not valuable. $9 grand???????? ==AM== Hard to judge that. It definitely is rare, as only somewhere around 900 Vanguard Sportsman cars were built, and this is likely the only one built specifically for the US market. AFAIK, there aren't very many Sportmans left anywhere, so.... ???? ==AM== and, btw, I didn't know they used SI carbs. . . . ==AM== Yes; I think it's the only Standard Vanguard model that did, since most had a single Solex carburetor. The Sportsman was almost a Triumph-badged car, hence the "World" emblem on the grille. The engine is tuned ALMOST to TR3 specifications, but it's NOT a TR3 engine. I believe it still carries the Vanguards 85 mm pistons and liners, for example. I'd love to have the car...but I don't have the money. :-( --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 22 15:02:52 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 16:02:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Spark plug torque References: Message-ID: <002f01c99539$edbde750$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> sand? where do you work on your car???? at the beach???? > It's good to be sure there's no sand has found it's way onto the plug > surface in the head. I blow out the area out beforehand. > > Dick From diggle at clear.net.nz Sun Feb 22 15:30:09 2009 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Diggle) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:30:09 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR4 Hoodstick colour Message-ID: Does anyone know what the original colour and gloss of the soft top frame (hoodsticks)? Also what material is used to make the cloth webbing thats attached to the hoodsticks? Thankyou Jim Vassiliadis From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Feb 22 15:37:53 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 17:37:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Hoodstick colour In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200902221737.54286.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 22 February 2009 17:30:09 Jim and Diggle wrote: > Does anyone know what the original colour and gloss of the soft top frame > (hoodsticks)? Jim, My 63 TR4 hoodsticks were a light tan color. But after blasting and sanding, I painted them a satin black to better go with the black interior. The original interior of the car was blue. > Also what material is used to make the cloth webbing thats attached to the > hoodsticks? Not sure what the cloth is but you can get the kits from TRF. > > Thankyou Your welcome. Bob From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Feb 22 15:47:39 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:47:39 -0000 Subject: [TR] Unusual or odd? References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090222100204.03307d40@pop.napanet.net> <001501c99523$7b2a3f10$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <883DD5AA334E4881B8B07FF55AB52F57@Bevan> > is it just me or does the bottom of the car totally scare you about the rest of it? Absolutely agree. Must have been retained for those who seek evidence of the rust that started in Coventry > another case of rare but not valuable. $9 grand???????? A fool and his money are soon parted - even if it is the alleged New York show car. > and, btw, I didn't know they used SI carbs. . . . The Vanguard always used a single downdraft Zenith. It was only the Sportsman that had SU's and only 1000 were made over five years. Jonmac From mmoore8425 at aol.com Sun Feb 22 16:03:09 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (mmoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 18:03:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: <49A1B697.9020108@tscusa.org> References: <49A1B697.9020108@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <8CB6358DCFD8A1A-440-2A02@Webmail-mg16.sim.aol.com> Sujit, I don't think its the gasoline. My Chrysler has 5 yer old gasoline (which I mean to drain!) but will still start ok. How hot is the spark? You ought to have a almost white/yellow spark., not a lazy red spark. Is your coil a 6v or 12v? It ought to be 6v.(If its 6 v, then the ignition switch wiring will bypass the ballast resistor and put 12 v on the 6 volt coil giving a sizzling spark, and once started you'll have 6 v on a 6vcoil. If you have 12v coil, you'll be putting 12v on while starting, then 6 v on a 12v coil while running. Best, MIke Moore -----Original Message----- From: Glenn A. Merrell To: sujit roy Cc: Triumphs Sent: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:33 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. sujit roy wrote: > I'm trying to start my Stag, but I have no signs that it wants to start. I > got a few pops last night, but nothing today. > > > WIll two old year gasoline prevent my car from starting? > Battery fully charged. > I have fuel getting into the LH carb as I had to take the float cover off to > fix a leak. I'm not sure abo the RH carb. Other than checking the float bowl > fro fuel how sure can I be that fuel is getting into the cylinders. > > Fuel pump is pumping. > > I have the timing approximately statically set to 12 degree before tdc. I > have Luminition and a spark is present. How off can the timing before it > won't start at all? > This is the 3rd time I've adjusted he timing in the many years I've own the > car. so I think I'm doing that right. > > > Sujit > > Hi Sujit, I responded on the Stag list also, make sure you are timing TDC to #2 on the Stag V8, and make sure you are not 180 degrees out. Here is the diagram: [img]http://www.triumphstag.net/start/technical/partslist/images/03-04.gi f[/img] -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Feb 22 16:14:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 15:14:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cooling In-Reply-To: <49A1933D.30206@uga.edu> Message-ID: <20090222231415.MKUI18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Well, just keep in mind that "based on" means there is a variable fudge factor between the equation given and the actual value. By careful choice of Finagle's constant (which isn't constant), ANY equation can be made to match ANY set of real world data. A similar set of equations govern the heat rejection by the radiator to the air, so air flow through the radiator is also an important variable. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Feb 22 16:18:18 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 15:18:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Hoodstick colour In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090222231818.OHZM8036.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Also what material is used to make the cloth webbing thats > attached to the hoodsticks? Dunno about TR4, but I think the original straps on a TR3 were cotton. But cotton doesn't hold up very well, so virtually all of them have been replaced at one time or another. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Feb 22 16:29:17 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 15:29:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090222232917.MRHS18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > My test is t0 squirt a little starting fluid in the carbs & > then try to start it. John beat me to it. So all I can add is that I find that ordinary carburetor cleaner actually works better for this purpose than modern "starting fluid". Just a brief spray down each throat, perhaps one second's worth, then stop spraying and try to start the engine. You may need to keep cranking for a bit, but if it doesn't at least fire after 10-15 seconds of cranking, then IMO you have no ignition or no compression. However, on the bad gas point, I suspect that 5 year old fuel may actually be better than 2 year old fuel in CA. The ethanol that has replaced MTBE seems to both make it "go off" far faster than before; and be more apt to plug passages and float valves. My lawnmower has started every season for almost 20 years, but last year it would NOT run until I cleaned both the float valve, and the main jet. And I literally had to chip away what looked like a lime deposit, to clear the main jet. Gumout wouldn't touch it. Randall From carlsereda at aol.com Sun Feb 22 17:21:27 2009 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 16:21:27 -0800 Subject: [TR] Unusual or odd? overdrive script emblem Message-ID: Andy, Do you think that the chrome Overdrive badge in 'script lettering' is original to this 1950 Vanguard Sportsman we're looking at? Previously I thought it was a Spitfire badge. But it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a proud owner use this particular badge on a car other than a Spitfire.. Regards, Carl From wmpless at iprimus.ca Sun Feb 22 17:21:30 2009 From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:21:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Front shocks Message-ID: <49A1EC0A.6060009@iprimus.ca> Have the front shocks out of my TR4A and can say that they are also easy to compress. However, if I use fast short compress strokes there is quite a bit resistants. My shocks are made by Boege and fairly new. Wiard Message: 3 Date: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 14:37:53 -0500 From: "Frederick M Light" Subject: [TR] shocks TR3 To: Message-ID: <7747176595FE4080812314E146928425 at FrederickLight> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I am assembling my front suspension and took my new shocks from Moss out of the box. I am able to compress them easily between my two hands. I have never seen shocks this easy to compress. ...... From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Feb 22 18:41:04 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 20:41:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: <48B3954F90494484A0FD8460009FFCB2@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <49A1B860.14212.2809428@localhost> On 22 Feb 2009 at 13:01, Joe Curry wrote: > > Whatever! > > From: Michael Marr [mailto:mmarr at notwires.com] > > I think we found a new companion word for fluif... > > From: "Joe Curry" > > > Smell it. If it stinks to high heaven, drain the tank and put > > > in some new guel. Fluif, guel, cream of whatever. You guys are making me hungry. Can't eat yet though, gotta' go check my engine's oik. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Feb 22 20:19:56 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:19:56 EST Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. Message-ID: In a message dated 2/22/2009 7:41:17 PM Central Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Can't eat yet though, gotta' go check my engine's oik. > I cheked mine and it's OJ! Dave From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sun Feb 22 20:25:26 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:25:26 EST Subject: [TR] Unusual or odd? overdrive script emblem Message-ID: In a message dated 2/22/2009 7:22:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, carlsereda at aol.com writes: Do you think that the chrome Overdrive badge in 'script lettering' is original to this 1950 Vanguard Sportsman we're looking at? Previously I thought it was a Spitfire badge. But it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a proud owner use this particular badge on a car other than a Spitfire.. ==AM== Yes, it's probably original. Oh, and good eye on your part. It is the same part number (603906) as the one found on Spitfires (and the odd Vitesse or Sport 6). And yes, I do happen to have a Standard Vanguard Sportsman Spare Parts Catalogue! :-) (Just need the car to go with it....) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From pethier at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 20:38:59 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 03:38:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] PERTRONIX ASSUMPTION? In-Reply-To: <003001c99567$6c0d4970$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <709320149.1359121235360339649.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I love my scanner. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "dorpaul" wrote: > From: "dorpaul" > To: pethier at comcast.net, "list Triumph" > Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 9:32:56 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] PERTRONIX ASSUMPTION? > > Phil, > Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! > I hadn't thought of how I might get a copy of the Positive Ground > Verion's > instructions. This is great! > I've already fryed my ignition (for some other reason), but now I'm > insured > that it won't happen again!!! > Thanks again, Paul Dorsey From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 06:17:30 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:17:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Spark plug torque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c995b9$14fe2c60$3efa8520$@net> Dick...Doesn't work on the car he tells all the girls at the beach what to do (so what are we doing wrong) Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 2:19 AM To: oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Spark plug torque Blowing sand is what we pick up in the nooks and crannies of our cars, here is So. Cal. Desert and beaches, indeed! (We don't have much real "dirt"). Dick -----Original Message----- From: oliver Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 2:02 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Spark plug torque sand? where do you work on your car???? at the beach???? > It's good to be sure there's no sand has found it's way onto the plug > surface in the head. I blow out the area out beforehand. > > Dick 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From wsnyder at henderson.lib.nc.us Mon Feb 23 07:19:44 2009 From: wsnyder at henderson.lib.nc.us (William Snyder) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 09:19:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bumper brackets Message-ID: <001101c995c1$c6198dc0$1701010a@Bill> I need the left front bumper mounts for a late (1976) TR6. Needed are the bracket that bolts to the frame, support tube, reinforcement strut and the angle bracket. Can anyone help? Thanks Bill William Snyder, Director Henderson County Public Library 301 N Washington Street Hendersonville, NC 28739 828 697 4725 Voice 828 692 8449 Fax 828 674 6537 Cell wsnyder at henderson.lib.nc.us From tr3a at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 08:06:57 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:06:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning Message-ID: <49A2BB91.8050701@comcast.net> Here's a thought... http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/attachment.php?attachmentid=13712&d=1207188061 From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 08:39:29 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:39:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Spark plug torque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I always torque my plugs to 20 ft lbs. I like not having to worry about making them tighter than they need to be or stripping the threads. One less thing that could be an issue that way. Most of my erratic running/idling issues got cured by replacing the ignition (Petronix and MSD) and the distributor (Mallory). The other idling issue (caused by a bit of fuel surging) got cured by using a fuel pressure regulator. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Feb 22, 2009, at 12:40 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Hey Guys, > How many of you torque your spark plugs to the specified 20 ft. > lbs? Before > today I have to admit that I never have done that. Since the age > of 14 or > so I have always used the grunt torque method for this task. Age > has now > weakened my grunt too no doubt. > > Today whilst installing a fresh set of Bosch Platinum Plus plugs > in the TR6 > I noticed a diagram on the box that showed a wrench that indicated > 21 ft > lbs. torque. OK so I got my Snap On out and set it at 21. Whoa, > that's tight. > Drop back five and punt dude before you screw it up! That's way > tight for my > grunt. But dang right there in the official Triumph TR6 Repair > Operations > Manual is a setting for 20 ft lbs. for spark plug attachment. I > guess that's > right? > > Do you suppose this is why all my Triumphs seem to have lean running > decease? No way, this can't be that important. I for sure have > never tightened > plugs this tight. Also since I am always fooling around, I am sure > that I am > crushing that compression washer several times that should only be > crushed once, > correct? Old wives tale? > > Cheers, > Darrell > > > > **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. > (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003 > ) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Mon Feb 23 09:35:30 2009 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:35:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bumper parts Message-ID: <380-22009212316353046@earthlink.net> Bill, I have a NOS LH front bumper mount for '74-'76 TR6's, looks like TRF part #821408. Not sure what you mean by "late TR6", were they different? I also have a used pair of reinforcements, part #821467. They appear to be straight, and have surface corrosion everywhere. I have a used pair of overriders laying around that may have the upper and lower angle brackets for a '74 in them, condition unknown. No support tube, sorry. If you want a digital photo, email me offline. I'll be on the road the next few days, but I'll get back to you Friday. Cheers, Tom > I need the left front bumper mounts for a late (1976) TR6. Needed are the > bracket that bolts to the frame, support tube, reinforcement strut and the > angle bracket. Can anyone help? > > > > Thanks > > Bill > > > > William Snyder, Director > > Henderson County Public Library > > 301 N Washington Street > > Hendersonville, NC 28739 > > > > 828 697 4725 Voice > > 828 692 8449 Fax > > 828 674 6537 Cell > > wsnyder at henderson.lib.nc.us From dfb2000 at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 09:46:18 2009 From: dfb2000 at comcast.net (Bill McCabe) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:46:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Government at its worst In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Hi Andrew, Any progress on this problem? I find myself in a similar situation. Bill On 12/3/08 at 3:23 PM, auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) wrote: > Thanks to everyone who replied with a helpful spectrum of suggestions, > including trying a different RMV office, acting stupid (shouldn't be > difficult), getting the car titled first in CT, employing a "commissioner of > oaths", contacting a local state representative, securing a mechanic's lien > or "selling" the car to Dave in Dallas and have him sell it back to me. For > varying amounts of money, I have even been promised an Alabama title. One > respondent said I shouldn't have waited so long and another that I shouldn't > be pointing fingers when it was my fault in the first place. > > But I loved Terry Smith's reply: "government can descend to depths much, > much darker and deeper than this frivolity". How true ! > > So I am going to march through the suggestions and let the list know how I > make out. > > Andrew From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Feb 23 11:55:46 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:55:46 EST Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning Message-ID: In a message dated 2/23/2009 9:07:33 AM Central Standard Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: > Here's a thought... > > http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/attachment.php?attach > mentid=13712&d=1207188061 > Too bad the picture is cut off. Any bets on what state? Dave From tr3a at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 12:24:54 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 14:24:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A2F806.9040707@comcast.net> Not sure, but my money's on Missouri. :) Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: Too bad the picture is cut off. Any bets on what state? Dave From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 12:49:40 2009 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 19:49:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wheels on a TR3 In-Reply-To: <49A2BB91.8050701@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1791784297.1391171235418580433.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Team: My current TR3 has 15 x 5.5 inch wire wheels.B I'd like a set of Daytons on the current restoration project but they only make 5 or 6 inch:B does anyone on the list have 6 inch wheels on a TR3?B Looks like it would be a tight fit. Also, if anyone can send me a pictureB of a car withB painted wheels off-line, I'd really appreciate it.B Thanks ! Andrew Uprichard From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 23 12:59:24 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:59:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning References: <49A2F806.9040707@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001501c995f1$3bd60af0$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> i say either the east coast of florida or california ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Ferguson" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 1:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Air Conditioning > Not sure, but my money's on Missouri. > :) > Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > Too bad the picture is cut off. Any bets on what state? > > Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Feb 23 14:03:01 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 16:03:01 EST Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning Message-ID: In a message dated 2/23/2009 1:25:13 PM Central Standard Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: > Not sure, but my money's on Missouri. > > :) > I dunno, it looks too tropical. Maybe Boston. ;-) From pboldtrix at juno.com Mon Feb 23 14:20:24 2009 From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 21:20:24 GMT Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning Message-ID: <20090223.162024.20648.0@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> Naw.....my money's on Sonora..... -- "oliver" wrote: i say either the east coast of florida or california ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Ferguson" To: Cc: Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 1:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Air Conditioning > Not sure, but my money's on Missouri. > :) > Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > Too bad the picture is cut off. Any bets on what state? > > Dave This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pboldtrix at juno.com http://www.team.net/archive ____________________________________________________________ Purify your water with professional water treatment. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsJahs41p4uxLbk4Maq0dfNegKo6 Db2wHlnMesnMoPRgLn2pH9TLNW/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Feb 23 14:57:34 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:57:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning In-Reply-To: <20090223.162024.20648.0@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> References: <20090223.162024.20648.0@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <055201c99601$bc482c30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > > Too bad the picture is cut off. Any bets on what state? Seems to me that I've seen that photo before, with the plate visible, and it was either Arkansas or Georgia. But that kind of humor is universal, it could just as easily be a Red Green project. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-Lnfpulwjc Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Feb 23 16:36:51 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 18:36:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning In-Reply-To: <055201c99601$bc482c30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <20090223.162024.20648.0@webmail05.vgs.untd.com> <055201c99601$bc482c30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <76648C6358714A05965435AE2F54E64C@BOBSNEWPC> I'm thinking the same area of the country as Randall.....maybe Alabama and I just noticed the cool taillights replacing the "missing" ones! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 4:58 PM Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Air Conditioning > > Too bad the picture is cut off. Any bets on what state? Seems to me that I've seen that photo before, with the plate visible, and it was either Arkansas or Georgia. But that kind of humor is universal, it could just as easily be a Red Green project. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-Lnfpulwjc Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From leejohn7 at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 16:42:11 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 15:42:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr4 speedo Message-ID: After 6 years of not knowing how fast - or slow - I'm going it's time to fix the speedometer. It now indicates faster than reality, and increasingly so at higher speeds. The car was originally non-OD but I switched in an A-Type OD during the rebuild. It may not be exactly right for my 64 TR4 - it may be from a 4-A - and has a serial number of CT24212. I've been thinking I installed the wrong speedo drive, but looking at the Spare Parts Catalogue they look very different and probably not interchangeable. I do not have the 4A angle drive. The OD doesn't call for a special speedometer, does it? ISTR this thread in the past. From leejohn7 at gmail.com Mon Feb 23 16:44:28 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 15:44:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr4 speedo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: PLEASE IGNORE MY LAST. I've gotten most info I need from the archives. Apologize for the clutter. John Howard On Mon, Feb 23, 2009 at 3:42 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > After 6 years of not knowing how fast - or slow - I'm going it's time to > fix the speedometer. It now indicates faster than reality, and increasingly > so at higher speeds. The car was originally non-OD but I switched in an > A-Type OD during the rebuild. It may not be exactly right for my 64 TR4 - it > may be from a 4-A - and has a serial number of CT24212. > > I've been thinking I installed the wrong speedo drive, but looking at the > Spare Parts Catalogue they look very different and probably not > interchangeable. I do not have the 4A angle drive. The OD doesn't call for > a special speedometer, does it? > > ISTR this thread in the past. From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Feb 23 16:55:28 2009 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 18:55:28 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Threads Message-ID: Fred, Your TR3 should not have any Metric threads but it does have some Whitworth threads, mostly associated with "plumbing" items, like carbs and brakes. Some of these items purchased by Triumph retained Whitworth threads. George Haynes ************** You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Feb 23 18:39:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 17:39:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Threads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007201c99620$b4468490$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Your TR3 should not have any Metric threads Sorry, but I disagree. The studs that mount the instruments are metric threads. If the transmission cover is threaded for OD & reverse light switches (as most TR3 covers were), those are metric threads as well. There are also several places where there are British Association threads, which are fundamentally metric threads (based on the meter) even though most sources give them in oddball Imperial equivalent measurements. For example, the screws that hold the chrome "toilet seat covers" to the spare tire lid are 4BA, which are 3.6mm diameter by 0.7mm pitch. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Feb 23 20:49:06 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 22:49:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Success! How's quickly it starts! Message-ID: <007801c99632$d8ad3150$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List! I had great success hooking up the Positive Ground Pertronix Electronic Ignition. Special thanks to Phil Eithier for scanning his instructions and displaying them on Flickr. Thanks also to the unit's original owner, who is also on this list. Of course, my TR3 itself is very slow to jump alive. This is mainly due to me. I'm having fun at it though; and that's what matters, right? In fact, if I compare rebuilding my TR to building a house..., then I've had success wiring up a light switch! How disheartening. But, I want to ask something about the engine: What is it about this engine that enables it to jump alive that quick? I doubt a modern engine could beat it; why is this? My rebuilt TR4 engine was professionally rebuilt and I continue to be impressed at how quickly it jumps alive. I suppose 50-70 lbs. of oil pressure (using Valvoline 20W-50) is a good thing. I'm happy! Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From jgillis at tcd.ie Tue Feb 24 02:42:03 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 09:42:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR Handbrake Q Message-ID: <1235468523.49a3c0eb52ef3@mymail.tcd.ie> Hi all, quick one, after having problems getting my H/brake operating properly on the TR, I stripped out the guts in situ, I chose this route due to the difficulty I had getting at the large pivot nut when installing in the first instance. I noticed an instruction in the WSM that said the ratchet must be left loose on the attachment plate during installation, it does not say if, once in position inside the lever that it should be tightened, I have choose not to, and have a nyloc nut barely nipped up to the bolt holding it to the plate, I do have a H/brake that operates very well now. Is this correct? John 1954 TR2 (long door) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Feb 24 03:03:08 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 02:03:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR Handbrake Q In-Reply-To: <1235468523.49a3c0eb52ef3@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20090224100308.VDUJ18810.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I noticed an instruction in the WSM that said the ratchet > must be left loose on the attachment plate during > installation, it does not say if, once in position inside the > lever that it should be tightened, I have choose not to, and > have a nyloc nut barely nipped up to the bolt holding it to > the plate, I do have a H/brake that operates very well now. > Is this correct? Mine says "Tighten the nut sufficiently to allow the attachment plate to swing on the ratchet." which I take to mean snug, but not tight. As I see it, the ratchet is supposed to be able to pivot slightly as the handle moves through it's operational arc, as the radii are not perfectly matched. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Feb 24 05:40:45 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 07:40:45 EST Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning Message-ID: In a message dated 2/23/2009 3:57:46 PM Central Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > But that kind of humor is universal, it could just as easily be a Red Green > project. > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-Lnfpulwjc > Duct tape to the rescue. Dave "I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to, I guess." From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Feb 24 06:10:32 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 13:10:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] Air Conditioning In-Reply-To: <001501c995f1$3bd60af0$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> References: <49A2F806.9040707@comcast.net> <001501c995f1$3bd60af0$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: Not California. Mexicans would never do that kind of sophisticated work. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_howit works_022009 From DLylis at aol.com Tue Feb 24 11:16:04 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 13:16:04 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A oil level Message-ID: Since the rebuild of my motor I have had an issue with oil blowing out of the vent tube. While driving it is actually convenient to have perpetual rustproofing, but while parked in the gargage it drips on the floor. When I change the oil I have to put in more than is stated in the manual, as I interpreted, because of the oil cooler, and that may be so. I think I discussed this issue previously with the list, but now have a slightly different perspective. I replaced the felt on the dipstick when I rebuilt and it is about 1/2" thick. The old one was oily, dirty and flat. I removed the new felt and checked the oil and, of course, it shows the oil as overfilled. I am due to change again and am going to remove the felt to check oil level upon filling, and then replace it to see where "full" actually is. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1218822736x1201267884/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DfebemailfooterNO62) From january at chemeketa.edu Tue Feb 24 12:10:43 2009 From: january at chemeketa.edu (January Williams) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 11:10:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil level Message-ID: <4C7800EB52CF054BB0B4FF50968C1B66983650@cccmail2.chemeketa.network> This may not relate exactly to your 3, but . . . I noticed a long time ago if I fill oil up to the full mark on the dipstick within a very short time, a few hours, oil will be "used" and the level will fall to the mid point between the lines. After that, "usage" is pretty light and it will run several hundred miles to get down to the lower mark. So I routinely put only a half-quart in when it gets to the bottom mark. I religiously look at the stick every time I start out, and "use" less oil, and I think have less oil on the garage floor. At least, that's what I think . . . it's been years now since I've filled it past the mid point. Cheers January 66 TR4A CTC74217 LO From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Tue Feb 24 12:51:48 2009 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 13:51:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tires Message-ID: Triumphistae- What is the collective list sentiment on good quality, reasonably priced tires for 48-spoke wire wheels? TIA Bob Streepy From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Feb 24 16:23:35 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 23:23:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A oil level In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2007203395.383601235517815784.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> You know, I had similar issues with the new felt seal on the dipstick.B When I added the factory recommended amount of oil, it didn't register right on the dipstick.B Wound up at the next oil change grinding a small notch on the dipstick where "full" really was, and left the new felt seal on. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire >I replaced the felt on the dipstick when IB B rebuilt and it is about 1/2" thick.B B B I am due to change again and am going to remove the B felt to check >oil level upon filling, and then replace it to see where "full" B actually is.B B B From 60TR3A at cox.net Tue Feb 24 16:31:58 2009 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 16:31:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A oil level In-Reply-To: <2007203395.383601235517815784.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2007203395.383601235517815784.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: So how did you determine the real level?? Put in the requisite level of oil, run the engine, & the mark the dip stick?? John On 24 Feb, 2009, at 4:23 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > You know, I had similar issues with the new felt seal on the > dipstick.B When > I added the factory recommended amount of oil, it didn't register > right on the > dipstick.B Wound up at the next oil change grinding a small notch > on the > dipstick where "full" really was, and left the new felt seal on. > > > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) > > New Hampshire > > >> I replaced the felt on the dipstick when IB B rebuilt and it is >> about 1/2" > thick.B B B I am due to change again and am going to remove the B > felt to > check >> oil level upon filling, and then replace it to see where "full" B >> actually > is.B B > B > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From triumphstag at gmail.com Tue Feb 24 18:01:42 2009 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 17:01:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tryin g to get car to start after a slow two year rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I got the car started. The distributor was out by 180 degrees as Glenn had mentioned. I did drain the fuel. Sujit On Sun, Feb 22, 2009 at 11:14 AM, sujit roy wrote: > I'm trying to start my Stag, but I have no signs that it wants to start. I > got a few pops last night, but nothing today. > > > WIll two old year gasoline prevent my car from starting? > Battery fully charged. > I have fuel getting into the LH carb as I had to take the float cover off > to fix a leak. I'm not sure abo the RH carb. Other than checking the float > bowl fro fuel how sure can I be that fuel is getting into the cylinders. > > Fuel pump is pumping. > > I have the timing approximately statically set to 12 degree before tdc. I > have Luminition and a spark is present. How off can the timing before it > won't start at all? > This is the 3rd time I've adjusted he timing in the many years I've own the > car. so I think I'm doing that right. > > > Sujit From wbeech at flash.net Tue Feb 24 19:16:00 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 19:16:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have a set of Nankang N812 on mine, paid about $45ea, 165/R-15 is the correct size for the 48 spoke rim. The tread pattern is pretty close to the Michelin XZX. I put them on for the summer of 2007, before the restoration started, ran about 500 miles with no complaints. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Streepy Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:52 PM To: Triumph Mailing List Subject: [TR] Tires Triumphistae- What is the collective list sentiment on good quality, reasonably priced tires for 48-spoke wire wheels? TIA Bob Streepy This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Tue Feb 24 19:32:10 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 21:32:10 EST Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling Message-ID: Sorry I missed this post. I originally installed the fan backward before the restoration. While I had the body off and the luxury to fool around with it I found that it is not necessary to mount backwards. I moved the radiator forward as much as it would go and the fan cleared the bottom of the tank by about 1/8". As I said, I had the luxury to fool with this so I decided to trim a little off the blades of the fan to increase the clearance. Others that I know that have done this did not trim the fan and they are fine. Elongate the holes then it is pretty easy to set up with the fan on and drop the radiator into place and slip on the upper hose. Slip the braces on loosely to be sure the radiator is at the right angle and rotate the fan to see what you have. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From eoot at citlink.net Wed Feb 25 09:10:12 2009 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 11:10:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] tr3 cooling References: Message-ID: <003b01c99763$89f39bd0$650a0a0a@MyComputski> Thanks for the response and info. Would you happen to have any pictures? ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: eoot at citlink.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, February 24, 2009 9:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 cooling Sorry I missed this post. I originally installed the fan backward before the restoration. While I had the body off and the luxury to fool around with it I found that it is not necessary to mount backwards. I moved the radiator forward as much as it would go and the fan cleared the bottom of the tank by about 1/8". As I said, I had the luxury to fool with this so I decided to trim a little off the blades of the fan to increase the clearance. Others that I know that have done this did not trim the fan and they are fine. Elongate the holes then it is pretty easy to set up with the fan on and drop the radiator into place and slip on the upper hose. Slip the braces on loosely to be sure the radiator is at the right angle and rotate the fan to see what you have. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Feb 25 15:48:29 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:48:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A oil level In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <527509272.877301235602109006.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Yep.B I'm not sure whether the measure was thrown off because of the felt, or switching to a spin-on filter, or both, or none.B But I now know what the right level is supposed to be, and can measure it on the stick. Terry >So how did you determine the real level?? B Put in the requisite level B >of oil, run the engine, & the mark the dip stick?? On B 24 Feb, 2009, at 4:23 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >> You know, I had similar issues with the new felt seal on theB B dipstick.B B WhenB I added the factory recommended amount of oil, it didn't register B > >right on theB dipstick.B B Wound up at the next oil change grinding a small notchB B on theB dipstick where "full" really was, and left the new felt seal on. From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Feb 25 15:52:16 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 22:52:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Front wheel bearings In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <100173038.879231235602336725.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> While doing some maintenance on the suspension when it's warm enough, I spent a few hours last weekend packing the front wheel bearings.B I'm not feeling good about the job I did on the inside bearings.B They are pressed in, so I scooped fingers of grease and did the best I could to squeeze it inside the edges of the races, but the races themselves are not exposed.B I've forgotten what we've talked about here.B Is it just recommended to change these out every couple of years? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Feb 25 18:18:43 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Feb 2009 17:18:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front wheel bearings In-Reply-To: <100173038.879231235602336725.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <100173038.879231235602336725.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <020f01c997b0$2b63f860$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm not feeling good about the job I did on the inside bearings.B They > are > pressed in, so I scooped fingers of grease and did the best I could to > squeeze > it inside the edges of the races, but the races themselves are not > exposed. Terry, my suggestion is to use a drift through the center of the hub to tap the inner race of the inner bearing out, which will knock the dust seal out with it. You can then clean and grease the bearing properly. Normally the dust seal is reusable (don't recall ever having to replace it), but even if not, it's a whole lot cheaper than a new bearing (or having a failure on the road). If the felt is separated from the metal cup, they can be glued back together. If you do replace the felt/seal, it's best to assemble without the seal first, to set the bearing clearance. Mark the nut position, then install the seal and put the nut back where it was. New seals are often thick enough to upset the clearance measurement. The cotter pin should be replaced every time, and I seem to wind up replacing the dust cap about every 4th time. But the bearings last almost forever for me. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Feb 26 16:40:21 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 23:40:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Front wheel bearings In-Reply-To: <020f01c997b0$2b63f860$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <620163349.1381681235691621889.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Terry, my suggestion is to use a drift through the center of the hub to tap >the inner race of the inner bearing out, which will knock the dust seal out >with it. B You can then clean and grease the bearing properly. Thanks, Randall.B I couldn't remember how I assembed it during the rebuild.B I sorta remembered it was pressed in, but then I can't seem to remember much of anything anymore. Terry From wmpless at iprimus.ca Thu Feb 26 17:09:37 2009 From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 19:09:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 front wheel bearings Message-ID: <49A72F41.3040908@iprimus.ca> Further to Randall's advice would like mention that on the inside of the hub there are for each race two cut-outs to place the drift. Not easily visible with the grease. I am not sure whether the TR3 hubs have this feature but for sure the ones from TR4A and TR6. Wiard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Feb 26 18:16:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 17:16:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 front wheel bearings In-Reply-To: <49A72F41.3040908@iprimus.ca> References: <49A72F41.3040908@iprimus.ca> Message-ID: <040a01c99879$1756d080$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Further to Randall's advice would like mention that on the inside of the > hub there are for each race > two cut-outs to place the drift. Not easily visible with the grease. I > am not sure whether the TR3 hubs > have this feature but for sure the ones from TR4A and TR6. That's true, and the TR3 hubs (at least the disc brake ones) do have the cutouts for removing the outer races (aka cups). But just to be clear, I was talking only about tapping out the inner cone & rollers (taking the seal with it). I do not advocate removing the cups from the hub, unless you plan to replace them. They can be adequately inspected and greased while still in the hub; and removing them adds needless complexity (and chances for damage) to the job. Thus the cutouts are not needed unless you are replacing the bearings. Of course any sign of damage, discoloration, or even a matte surface is grounds for replacement; and each cone/cup pair should be replaced as a unit. But with careful maintenance, that doesn't happen very often. Randall From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Feb 26 20:47:32 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 19:47:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] Do TR3 Brake Hoses Contact Ball Joints? Message-ID: <49A76254.3080705@comcast.net> The brake hoses come almost vertically out of the calipers and then make a bend down to the brackets under the turret braces. Where they start to bend above the calipers, they touch the ball joint boots. Not with any significant force, but they touch. Is this normal? I tried twisting the bracket end of the hose a little to gain some clearance when I tightened the nut, but wasn't happy with the result. Thanks, Mike From wbeech at flash.net Thu Feb 26 23:05:39 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 23:05:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Do TR3 Brake Hoses Contact Ball Joints? In-Reply-To: <49A76254.3080705@comcast.net> References: <49A76254.3080705@comcast.net> Message-ID: Mike, That's what I did on mine, but no road experience to say if it will be satisfactory, it looks like it should be OK, poor engineering in my opinion. My PO had split a piece of green garden hose and sectioned it over that spot and secured it with zip-ties. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Lang Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 8:48 PM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] Do TR3 Brake Hoses Contact Ball Joints? The brake hoses come almost vertically out of the calipers and then make a bend down to the brackets under the turret braces. Where they start to bend above the calipers, they touch the ball joint boots. Not with any significant force, but they touch. Is this normal? I tried twisting the bracket end of the hose a little to gain some clearance when I tightened the nut, but wasn't happy with the result. Thanks, Mike This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 27 00:01:14 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 23:01:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Do TR3 Brake Hoses Contact Ball Joints? In-Reply-To: <49A76254.3080705@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090227070114.LFNU4483.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > The brake hoses come almost vertically out of the calipers > and then make a bend down to the brackets under the turret > braces. Where they start to bend above the calipers, they > touch the ball joint boots. Not with any significant force, > but they touch. Is this normal? Mine don't touch, on either the TR3 or the TR3A. Dim memory says the brackets on the frame moved slightly between disc & drum braked cars ... is there any chance you have a front drum frame? Randall From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Feb 27 09:47:51 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 11:47:51 EST Subject: [TR] Front Spindles..and new subjects HD Spindles and Miata Seat Conversions Message-ID: NFI on my part..... Speaking of uncle jack....I just talked to Tony Drews, Jack's son..... He has several Miata Seat Conversion brackets for the TR6 left from Jack's estate. This will likely be the last of those available. Tony IS producing more of the uncle jack (ujr) hd spindle and spacer kits this month, so those will be available once again. Please contact Tony at: tony at tonydrews.com Joe A. > Chris, > > I have two good stub axles should you need to revert to Bob's DM method. > Again, I used a twenty ton press to get these out,but am pretty sure I did > not mess up the threads [I installed uncle jack's stonger axelsas this is a > race car]. From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com Fri Feb 27 14:27:18 2009 From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 16:27:18 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel pump Message-ID: Hi; I have an early TR3A. I've just replaced the fuel pump with a Moss Motors unit. When off the car, the pump sucks and blows (if you'll pardon the expression) just fine with the primer. However, once bolted to the car, after a couple of pulls up on the primer lever, there is no more resistance on the lever and no more priming. When I then remove the pump, suddenly there is resistance on the lever and you can feel air blowing/sucking. I am sure there are no leaks in the fuel line, incidentally. Any ideas what I should do next? Am I installing it wrong? Thanks; Tim Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Green Industry professionals) and the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Feb 27 15:11:03 2009 From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 17:11:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel pump In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB673F69BDFD38-A4C-1C23@WEBMAIL-DC14.sysops.aol.com> Have you tried it with the fuel line disconnected at the carburetor to verify fuel flow?? It is normal for the fuel pump to stop "working" once fuel pressure is reached.? You may have an obstruction in the fuel system so check that out, too. Dave I have an early TR3A. I've just replaced the fuel pump with a Moss Motors unit. When off the car, the pump sucks and blows (if you'll pardon the expression) just fine with the primer. However, once bolted to the car, after a couple of pulls up on the primer lever, there is no more resistance on the lever and no more priming. When I then remove the pump, suddenly there is resistance on the lever and you can feel air blowing/sucking. I am sure there are no leaks in the fuel line, incidentally. Any ideas what I should do next? Am I installing it wrong? -----Original Message----- From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 3:27 pm Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel pump Hi; I have an early TR3A. I've just replaced the fuel pump with a Moss Motors unit. When off the car, the pump sucks and blows (if you'll pardon the expression) just fine with the primer. However, once bolted to the car, after a couple of pulls up on the primer lever, there is no more resistance on the lever and no more priming. When I then remove the pump, suddenly there is resistance on the lever and you can feel air blowing/sucking. I am sure there are no leaks in the fuel line, incidentally. Any ideas what I should do next? Am I installing it wrong? Thanks; Tim Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Green Industry professionals) and the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as dave1massey at cs.com http://www.team.net/archive ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Feb 27 19:26:54 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 21:26:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] 15 x 8 wheels on a TR4-6 Message-ID: Has anybody run a set of 15 x 8 wheels on their big TR? If so what offset worked for you? Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.:more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_explore_ 022009 From mlang99 at comcast.net Fri Feb 27 18:52:00 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 17:52:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] Do TR3 Brake Hoses Contact Ball Joints? In-Reply-To: <20090227070114.LFNU4483.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090227070114.LFNU4483.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <49A898C0.4000706@comcast.net> I do have a 57 TR3, but I compared the bracket locations to the ones on my TR3A parts car and they measure out the same. Unfortunately the calipers and hoses are long gone off of the parts car so I don't have more to compare to. It does sound like I am not the only one that has observed this. I will have to admit that I've wondered if the new hoses are different. I did hit a major mile stone last night. I finally reached the point of hanging the engine and transmission back on the frame. The body tub is complete and painted so it can't be long now (major wishful thinking)! Mike Randall wrote: >> The brake hoses come almost vertically out of the calipers >> and then make a bend down to the brackets under the turret >> braces. Where they start to bend above the calipers, they >> touch the ball joint boots. Not with any significant force, >> but they touch. Is this normal? >> > > Mine don't touch, on either the TR3 or the TR3A. > > Dim memory says the brackets on the frame moved slightly between disc & drum > braked cars ... is there any chance you have a front drum frame? > > Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 27 20:10:40 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:10:40 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel pump Message-ID: I find that it only pumps when it is able to move fuel. When the floats are full and the float valves are closed it not no longer pumps, i.e. you can no longer feel resistance at the lever. This is the way my fuel pumps with primer levers have been on both cars and have always taken it as normal. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Feb 27 20:29:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 19:29:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel pump In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090228032901.IYAK4483.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I find that it only pumps when it is able to move fuel. When > the floats are full and the float valves are closed it not > no longer pumps, i.e. you can no longer feel resistance at > the lever. That is exactly right. In addition, if the camshaft happens to be turned so it presses on the internal lever, the range of resistance will be much smaller. Both the priming lever and the camshaft lever pull the diaphragm down against a spring, pulling fuel into the pump. When the force is released, the spring pushes the diaphragm up, pushing fuel out to the carbs. The spring tension is what limits the output pressure of the pump; so when the output limit is reached, the diaphragm simply doesn't rise against the pressure, and stays fully down. That leaves the levers with nothing to do. Randall From bob at texmog.com Fri Feb 27 22:06:55 2009 From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 23:06:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Oil Pump Gasket Message-ID: <1B3BDEF70A4143A2A5C8F018E2C7D952@CARROOM> Hey guys does the TR3 engine use a gasket between the oil pump and block? My Payne Kits did not come with a gasket for the oil pump. Got lots of gaskets which aren't used but not one for the oil pump or fuel pump. Bob Nogueira From mark at bradakis.com Fri Feb 27 22:19:50 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 22:19:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Fot] 15 x 8 wheels on a TR4-6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A8C976.4000409@bradakis.com> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12 mjb. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Feb 28 05:56:24 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 07:56:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil Pump Gasket In-Reply-To: <1B3BDEF70A4143A2A5C8F018E2C7D952@CARROOM> References: <1B3BDEF70A4143A2A5C8F018E2C7D952@CARROOM> Message-ID: <200902280756.24779.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 28 February 2009 00:06:55 bob at texmog.com wrote: > Hey guys does the TR3 engine use a gasket between the oil pump and block? > My Payne Kits did not come with a gasket for the oil pump. Got lots of > gaskets which aren't used but not one for the oil pump or fuel pump. > > Bob Nogueira > _______________________________________________ Bob, Yes there is. According to the parts manual it is part # 56282 called Washer, joint oil pump to cyl bolck. It is on Plate D line # 13. If I remember correctly, when I did my original rebuild I didnt use any gasket sealer, just the plane gasket. Bob From DLylis at aol.com Sat Feb 28 06:02:47 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:02:47 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge Message-ID: This is now getting annoying. First my ammeter gave up on me and works intermittently which indicates, to me, a bad connection in the gauge. Now my temp gauge suddenly stopped working. I don't think it is the gauge because when the temp under the dash goes over 90 degrees the gauge records it. (I am in Florida). Can these capillary tubes be repaired? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Feb 28 06:40:24 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:40:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Red Lock-Tite Message-ID: The red product made by Lock-Tite and Permatex is for heavy duty thread locking. Sometimes after toquing a component, you're supposed to check & re-torque after driving XXX miles. I'd usually do that by putting my torque wrench on the car and tightening it again. If it has loosened and moves, does that wreck the effectiveness of the thread locking compound? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From mathews at uga.edu Sat Feb 28 06:58:56 2009 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:58:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Red Lock-Tite In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A94320.3060703@uga.edu> Bob, It is not supposed to be used twice, so if the bolt moves then it needs to be cleaned off and reapplied. But the red loctite from what I know sometimes requires HEAT and force to remove, so if its loose already, the bis issue is why it ever came loose in the first place. I'd not use it on those bolts that required "touch up" re-torque since the red should lock the bolt in and would not giver accurate readings anyway. My 2 cents but I bet there are a lot of "dollars" out there. Doug Bob Danielson wrote: > The red product made by Lock-Tite and Permatex is for heavy duty thread > locking. Sometimes after toquing a component, you're supposed to check & > re-torque after driving XXX miles. I'd usually do that by putting my torque > wrench on the car and tightening it again. If it has loosened and moves, > does that wreck the effectiveness of the thread locking compound? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ From tr3a at comcast.net Sat Feb 28 07:07:41 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:07:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49A9452D.8000200@comcast.net> Last I heard, though I've been away for a while, Mo-Ma in Albuquerque does a good job restoring these (including the cap tube). Others can chime in if they know better, or have had bad experiences with them. I haven't needed a gauge rebuild so I have no first hand experience with these folks. And NFI. Searching for Mo-Ma gets lots of Museum of Modern Art hits :) but I finally found contact info... Mo Ma Manufacturing - instrument repair 13211 Second Street. NW Albuquerque, NM 87102 (505) 766-6661 momamn at quest.net DLylis at aol.com wrote: This is now getting annoying. First my ammeter gave up on me and works intermittently which indicates, to me, a bad connection in the gauge. Now my temp gauge suddenly stopped working. I don't think it is the gauge because wh en the temp under the dash goes over 90 degrees the gauge records it. (I am in Florida). Can these capillary tubes be repaired? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Feb 28 08:38:08 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:38:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge References: Message-ID: <230650FC9D1E481082D13EE1A075E10F@fred8kwiskhcfu> Dve, go the Mo-Ma route, Nissonger sold out a few years back and retired, the new owners have more than doubled his and the industry pricing for repairs and certainly not worth the difference, best advice is stay away from them. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 8:02 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge > This is now getting annoying. First my ammeter gave up on me and works > intermittently which indicates, to me, a bad connection in the gauge. > Now my > temp gauge suddenly stopped working. I don't think it is the gauge > because when > the temp under the dash goes over 90 degrees the gauge records it. (I am > in > Florida). Can these capillary tubes be repaired? > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars > updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. > (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Loumetelko at aol.com Sat Feb 28 09:52:30 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 11:52:30 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge Message-ID: When a capillary tube temp gauge quits it is normally from the loss of (freon?) gas in the tube that is inside the thermostat housing. I dunno why or how it leaks but MO-MA charged me $45 back in late 2004. BTW an invoice from them gives an address of 1321 Second St. NW and an e-mail of _momanm at aol.com_ (mailto:momanm at aol.com) Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana In a message dated 2/28/2009 9:08:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: but I finally found contact info... Mo Ma Manufacturing - instrument repair 13211 Second Street. NW Albuquerque, NM 87102 (505) 766-6661 momamn at quest.net DLylis at aol.com wrote: **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 28 10:15:34 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:15:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] Red Lock-Tite In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090228171534.FMWV12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Sometimes after toquing a component, > you're supposed to check & re-torque after driving XXX miles. > I'd usually do that by putting my torque wrench on the car > and tightening it again. To get an accurate reading, you need to actually loosen the fastener slightly first, and then retorque it. The torque reading needs to be taken while it's moving as the threads will stick together once they stop moving. > If it has loosened and moves, does > that wreck the effectiveness of the thread locking compound? For common Loctite, yes. It should not be used in places that require periodic retensioning (like head nuts). The retensioning is not because the nut moves; but rather because the head gasket tends to become more compressed over time. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Feb 28 10:23:03 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:23:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <08F2AA59B666465BB4D3C27729A420C3@sniffer> Mo-Ma is good folks with a good reputation, chances are they are backed. If their schedule is a problem for you try West Valley Instruments aka West Valley Auto Electronics. NFI, but they did a good job on a complete re-build of all six of my TR3 gauges at a competitive price and about 6-8 week turnaround. Talk to Morris at: 818.758.9500, BTW they are also listed in the new Moss catalog (p96) along with Mo-Ma. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge When a capillary tube temp gauge quits it is normally from the loss of (freon?) gas in the tube that is inside the thermostat housing. I dunno why or how it leaks but MO-MA charged me $45 back in late 2004. BTW an invoice from them gives an address of 1321 Second St. NW and an e-mail of _momanm at aol.com_ (mailto:momanm at aol.com) Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana In a message dated 2/28/2009 9:08:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: but I finally found contact info... Mo Ma Manufacturing - instrument repair 13211 Second Street. NW Albuquerque, NM 87102 (505) 766-6661 momamn at quest.net DLylis at aol.com wrote: **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&n cid=emlcntusyelp00000004) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 28 10:45:56 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:45:56 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Temp gauge In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090228174556.FLQL28844.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > This is now getting annoying. First my ammeter gave up on me > and works intermittently which indicates, to me, a bad > connection in the gauge. Should be easy to tell the difference. Shut the engine off (if it's running) and see if anything works. If the problem is a bad connection to the gauge, the headlights, fuel gauge, warning lights etc. will all not work. > Now my temp gauge suddenly stopped > working. I don't think it is the gauge because when the > temp under the dash goes over 90 degrees the gauge records > it. That's pretty strange. Are you sure there is water in the thermostat housing? These gauges work by having liquid ether in the bulb, and the gauge reads the vapor pressure of the ether. So the gauge itself (the part in the dash) is not sensitive to temperature, only pressure. > (I am in Florida). Can these capillary tubes be repaired? Probably best to send them to a shop, like MO-MA, that is equipped to deal with them. (BTW, I suspect Lou missed a '1' when typing that price, or else he is VERY good friends with the owner of MO-MA ) However, some people have managed to repair them at home. Basically you buy a new mechanical temp gauge, and graft it's bulb and tubing to your original gauge, while keeping the bulb cold so the ether doesn't evaporate (much). Here's an article on the subject: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 28 10:49:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 09:49:54 -0800 Subject: [TR] Oil Pump Gasket In-Reply-To: <1B3BDEF70A4143A2A5C8F018E2C7D952@CARROOM> Message-ID: <20090228174954.GBRF12934.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Hey guys does the TR3 engine use a gasket between the oil > pump and block? Yup, but it's just thin paper. You should be able to snip one out from your junk mail The fuel pump gasket is thicker but still not very. I have been known to cut them out of a manila folder (from the trash at work). Randall From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net Sat Feb 28 11:17:49 2009 From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:17:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: I am installing a new bottom trunion from Moss on my TR3A. The unthreaded shaft has a significantly larger diameter than the original, even allowing for wear and I am unable to get the wishbones on the shaft. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks Fred TS57038 From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net Sat Feb 28 11:38:22 2009 From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 13:38:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Bottom trunion Message-ID: <33D4B2DF9BC54CE8A6DA482E285C692D@FrederickLight> I am installing a new bottom trunion from Moss on my TR3A. The unthreaded shaft has a significantly larger diameter than the original, even allowing for wear and I am unable to get the wishbones on the shaft. Anyone else have this problem? Thanks Fred TS57038 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 28 11:59:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 10:59:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] Bottom trunion In-Reply-To: <33D4B2DF9BC54CE8A6DA482E285C692D@FrederickLight> Message-ID: <20090228185939.WLZV15930.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I am installing a new bottom trunion from Moss on my TR3A. > The unthreaded shaft has a significantly larger diameter than > the original, even allowing for wear and I am unable to get > the wishbones on the shaft. The new pins should be 5/8" less a few thousandths for clearance (so maybe .620"-.623"). If they are larger than that, you've got wrong or defective trunnions, send them back. If old ones were significantly smaller than that, someone in the past may have tried to get by with worn pins by leaving the bushings in the A-arms undersize. They normally should be reamed after installation to .625". Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Feb 28 12:47:32 2009 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 11:47:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: sorry for the bandwidth, checking new computer -- Bill Pugh anabil007 at comcast.net Wallace, CA From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Feb 28 15:16:35 2009 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:16:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] Engine building tips Message-ID: <20090228221710.C8AEC187647@autox.team.net> I just posted these "uncle jack's engine building tips", and thought you guys would be interested. This is for the TR-2/3/4 motor, and really intended for race motors but has a bunch of stuff that can help for street motors too. Jack wrote this up in one of his brief hospital stays to stave off the boredom and intended for this to be shared. http://www.tonydrews.com/uncle_jacks_engine_building_tips.htm - Tony Drews From DLylis at aol.com Sat Feb 28 15:31:18 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 17:31:18 EST Subject: [TR] Engine building tips Message-ID: Thanks Tony David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Sat Feb 28 15:38:23 2009 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 14:38:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 Message-ID: <120907.25890.qm@web37601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> After an extended hiatus from driving the 6, I found today that I had no fire. Battery is good, starter is turning the engine, but getting no spark. I converted to electronic ignition when I rebuilt the engine 6-7 years ago. What is the life span of these systems? What would be my recommended course of action? Thanks in advance, Bryan From mdporter at dfn.com Sat Feb 28 15:49:30 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 15:49:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine building tips In-Reply-To: <20090228221710.C8AEC187647@autox.team.net> References: <20090228221710.C8AEC187647@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <49A9BF7A.4090706@dfn.com> Tony Drews wrote: > I just posted these "uncle jack's engine building tips", and thought > you guys would be interested. This is for the TR-2/3/4 motor, and > really intended for race motors but has a bunch of stuff that can help > for street motors too. Jack wrote this up in one of his brief > hospital stays to stave off the boredom and intended for this to be > shared. > One thing to be considered about the cam degreeing notes in the above. If the cam specs indicate, say, 0.050" lift at the valve at a particular point of cam rotation, then measuring 0.050" at the lifter or pushrod, as the notes indicate, would be incorrect, since this does not take rocker ratio into account. If the ratio is reliably 1.5:1, then one should be measuring, 0.033" at the lifter or pushrod. If the cam specs are for 0.050" lift at the lobe, then, of course, Jack's notes would be correct. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Sat Feb 28 16:16:08 2009 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 15:16:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 Message-ID: <958499.49724.qm@web37601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many thanks. Consider me electronically challenged please, where do I start to look after checking for corrosion on the fuses? Coil? --- On Sat, 2/28/09, Michael Porter wrote: From: Michael Porter Subject: Re: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 To: "Bryan Loy" Date: Saturday, February 28, 2009, 5:04 PM Bryan Loy wrote: > After an extended hiatus from driving the 6, I found today that I had no fire. Battery is good, starter is turning the engine, but getting no spark. I converted to electronic ignition when I rebuilt the engine 6-7 years ago. What is the life span of these systems? What would be my recommended course of action? Thanks in advance, > The first and obvious thing to check after the car's been sitting for a long while is make sure there's voltage at the input to the ignition system. If not, it could simply be corrosion on a fuse connection, or a wire chewed through by a rodent, etc. There's no sensible reason why the electronic ignition should fail when the car is stored, unless high humidity, etc., might cause some internal corrosion. After all, without current passing through it, it's just a hunk of stuff. If it's not disturbed in any way, storage shouldn't affect it at all. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Sat Feb 28 16:38:11 2009 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 15:38:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 Message-ID: <859004.66703.qm@web37601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have the newer type ele.igniton, no points, is some sort of magnetic setup when the points would go, of course. I did check a plug agains the body, no spark at all. I will do some more checking and get back to the list w/my findings. Many thanks! Bryan --- On Sat, 2/28/09, Michael Porter wrote: From: Michael Porter Subject: Re: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 To: "Bryan Loy" Date: Saturday, February 28, 2009, 5:29 PM First question is, I suppose, do you have a voltmeter? If you do, with the ignition switch in the "on" position, negative lead to a good ground, and positive lead to the power input to the electronic ignition. If there's no power at that point, it's a matter of tracing back to the fault. If there is power at the ignition module, then check for power at the coil + terminal. I'm not sure what you would see at that point with the ignition on and the engine not turning--that depends upon the type of electronic ignition you installed--but with the engine cranking, you should read some sort of voltage, or a voltage pulse as the ignition opens and closes. Are you using points to trigger the ignition module (ala older MSD units), or does the ignition have its own optical/magnetic switch? If the former, it's worth checking continuity when the points are closed and lack of continuity when they're open. Have you removed a spark plug yet and grounded it, then cranked the engine to see if you're getting any sort of spark at all, even a weak one? If not, maybe you should, just to make troubleshooting easier. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 28 16:46:49 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 15:46:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 In-Reply-To: <958499.49724.qm@web37601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090228234649.KPNC28844.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Consider me electronically challenged please, > where do I start to look after checking for corrosion on the > fuses? Coil? Depends on the kind of ignition you have. But I would look for power to the electronic module first. If it gets it's power from the coil terminal, then that's the place. Also check it's ground. If it's grounded to the plate inside the distributor (Pertronix), check the ground wire for the plate. If it's an optical system (Crane), I would also check the shutter for spider's nests. If everything else seems good, it might be worth checking for spark directly at the top of the coil. There was a rash of bad rotors a few years back, that would ground the spark to the distributor shaft. BTW, a stock TR6 has no fuse in the line to the coil. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 28 16:53:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 15:53:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] no fire in the hole-'71 tr6 In-Reply-To: <859004.66703.qm@web37601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090228235338.KRQS28844.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I have the newer type ele.igniton, no points, is some sort of > magnetic setup when the points would go, of course. That would probably be a Pertonix then. Since a 71 TR6 wouldn't have a ballast resistor, most likely it is getting it's power from the positive terminal of the coil. But it's best to trace the wires, as whoever installed it may have chosen to go a different route. Also worth checking that you have the right coil for a 71 TR6 without a ballast resistor. The coil changed in 73 (when a ballast resistor wire was incorporated in the wiring harness), and I have seen the wrong coil sold. The Pertronix is rather sensitive to coil resistance, and can overheat if used with the wrong coil/ballast setup. Or even if you leave the key on for more than a few minutes with the engine not running, apparently. Randall From pbrandsema at triad.rr.com Sat Feb 28 17:27:02 2009 From: pbrandsema at triad.rr.com (pbrandsema at triad.rr.com) Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2009 0:27:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 Big End Bearings Message-ID: <20090301002703.RZ9IC.154721.root@hrndva-web01-z02> Due to low oil pressure, I decided to inspect and if necessary replace the connecting rod big end bearings on my TR4. This is being done with the engine in the car. I've pulled one set of bearings, and it appears they definitely need replacement. The bearings are worn down to copper in some places. Ok, so now I need to figure out what size bearings to buy. I was hoping the bearing would have a stamping of the size. (std., .010, .020, etc) The stamping is 117590, which according to the TR4 spares catalog, this is the part number for the bearing. However, there is no separate numbers for the undersized bearing. Since there is no undersized stamp on the bearing, can I assume that it's standard size? Paul 61 TR4 From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Feb 28 17:46:45 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 19:46:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Big End Bearings References: <20090301002703.RZ9IC.154721.root@hrndva-web01-z02> Message-ID: I can not answer your question about the bearing size but a set of mic's will tell real quick. Mic the crank and you'll know. What I am writing to say is that while you're at it pull the oil pump apart and check the bottom plate for scoring. If it's scored I'd work those scores out with a piece of course emory cloth on a flat surface like a piece of glass. Lay the emory on the glass and oil it well then start to work out the scores. Using the glass insures that you remove material evenly across the plate. Check the rotor clearances too and replace the pump rotors if out of spec. Having that bottom plate tolerance in spec is very important to maintaining good oil pressure. My story is similar to your's. After a 5 hour high speed run I stopped to pay a Turnpike Toll and my OP was maybe 5 pounds. This was in April weather in Ohio so it wasn't hot out and I run 20W - 50W oil. After replacing the rod bearings and rebuilding the oil pump I have 40+ pounds of OP at idle in August. Standard size crank with probably 80,000+ miles on it. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 7:27 PM Subject: [TR] TR4 Big End Bearings > Due to low oil pressure, I decided to inspect and if necessary replace the > connecting rod big end bearings on my TR4. This is being done with the > engine in the car. I've pulled one set of bearings, and it appears they > definitely need replacement. The bearings are worn down to copper in some > places. Ok, so now I need to figure out what size bearings to buy. I was > hoping the bearing would have a stamping of the size. (std., .010, .020, > etc) The stamping is 117590, which according to the TR4 spares catalog, > this is the part number for the bearing. However, there is no separate > numbers for the undersized bearing. Since there is no undersized stamp on > the bearing, can I assume that it's standard size? > > Paul > 61 TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Feb 28 18:44:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 17:44:59 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Big End Bearings In-Reply-To: <20090301002703.RZ9IC.154721.root@hrndva-web01-z02> Message-ID: <20090301014459.MCHU28844.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Since there is > no undersized stamp on the bearing, can I assume that it's > standard size? Probably. But I sure wouldn't button it up without double-checking. If you don't have at least dial calipers ($15 @ Enco), then try some Plastigage with the new standard bearings. I would also be replacing the mains, if the rods were that bad. The front two should be no problem without pulling the engine/crank, and I've done the rear on my TR3A. The trick is to remove only one cap at a time, so the other two continue to support the crank. I flatten one of the bottom inserts to use as a drift to start the upper insert out, then pinch it against the crank with my thumb & turn the crank to roll it the rest of the way out. I've heard of jamming a cotter pin into one of the oil holes and using it to push the insert into place, but my method seemed easier to me. Randall From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sat Feb 28 20:39:04 2009 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 19:39:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 Message-ID: <49AA0358.3080500@greenheart.com> Another great one gone. --Justin http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20090301/ap_on_en_ot/obit_harvey From pcaffrey at ymail.com Sat Feb 28 21:36:03 2009 From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 20:36:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 In-Reply-To: <49AA0358.3080500@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <117399.13830.qm@web59714.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Yes, I just saw the news.....A great man in my book. Pat --- On Sun, 3/1/09, Justin Wagner wrote: From: Justin Wagner Subject: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 To: "Friends of Triumph" , "Triumphs" Date: Sunday, March 1, 2009, 3:39 AM Another great one gone. --Justin http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20090301/ap_on_en_ot/obit_harvey This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pcaffrey at ymail.com http://www.team.net/archive From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Sat Feb 28 21:37:06 2009 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 20:37:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 In-Reply-To: <49AA0358.3080500@greenheart.com> References: <49AA0358.3080500@greenheart.com> Message-ID: Great one gone? Hardly. Good riddance. His veiled right-wing propaganda was poison for America's radio listeners. He can party with Reagan in hell. These are the people that brought this country and the world into another Great Depression. On 2/28/09, Justin Wagner wrote: > > Another great one gone. --Justin > > From wbeech at flash.net Sat Feb 28 22:22:29 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 22:22:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Testing the TR3 wiper motor Message-ID: <4CC8CD8D66B944CF8B61CE63ED2DEC0B@sniffer> I disassembled/cleaned/re-assembled the motor and gearbox for my '58 TR3A. When I touched the hot wire to one of the poles, I am still pos ground, the motor ran a few seconds then stopped. Of course, this is what it is supposed to do when it is turned off and goes to the rest position. My question is how can I run the motor for a few minutes to be sure everything is OK. I don't seem to be able to find the right combination of connections and the manual is no help. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wbeech at flash.net Sat Feb 28 22:22:29 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 22:22:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 In-Reply-To: References: <49AA0358.3080500@greenheart.com> Message-ID: <808FEEA107E14761992BBB8F87A863FB@sniffer> OK guys, how does this help me get my TR3 back on the road???? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tartanredmgb at gmail.com Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 9:37 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] O.T.: Paul "The Rest of the Story" Harvey, Dead at 90 Great one gone? Hardly. Good riddance. His veiled right-wing propaganda was poison for America's radio listeners. He can party with Reagan in hell. These are the people that brought this country and the world into another Great Depression. On 2/28/09, Justin Wagner wrote: > > Another great one gone. --Justin > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive