From opposumking at verizon.net  Tue Dec  1 03:56:21 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 05:56:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!
References: <1089917353.6915071259177955587.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<192527736.6915981259178140693.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<76370342DB944C2090F81D78C0D9AC06@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <AEFEDAA0251144618308C080B7E89332@mde.state.md.us>

They tell you that on their web page.  Probably right from their law code

"The sales tax for a private sale is calculated at 6.25% of the purchase 
price or the National Automotive Dealer Association (NADA) trade-in value, 
whichever is higher."

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 07:20:23 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 14:20:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Kitty Litter
In-Reply-To: <291627276.9423021259623707210.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <345390451.10720171259677223354.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

The "cheap" kitty litter that works so well on oil leaks is just clay...therefore it does turn to mud... 
Tom 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: terryrs at comcast.net 
To: triumphs at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 6:28:27 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: [TR] Kitty Litter 

Word to the wise from someone who has done dumb things in the past, this not 
being the worst of them, I'm afraid. 



TR3A leaks oil in the parking garage at work.B Put down a mat and sprinkled 
with kitty litter.B I carry the kitty litter in a plastic jar in the trunk. 



Somehow the lid came unscrewed allowing the kitty litter to spill all over the 
trunk.B Before I could vacuum it up, it rained and the trunk got wet inside. 



Uhm...didB you know that kitty litter turns to mud???? 



I believe there are two scientific terms for this.B OneB is called 
"saturation."B 



The other is..."duh." 



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 

New Hampshire 

_______________________________________________ 

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Dec  1 07:46:18 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 14:46:18 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <4B143BE6.20186.2A53EF44@localhost>
References: <4B143BE6.20186.2A53EF44@localhost>
Message-ID: <3809DD90852045E79F2484038F51900C@artvac412870f0>

Hi Jim,
   Yes, You have to consider the Springs as they enter into it just like the 
Viscosity of your oil in the Dash Pots.
But, Actually it's the other way around the softer Springs will let the 
Pistons rise too soon as You say, but this
makes the mixture too lean. It's when the Springs are too stiff or stiff 
enough as needed, that it will keep the Piston
down and draw more Fuel through your Jet relative to the volume of Air 
through the variable choke effect or Venturi.
  The same applies, but only momentarily when too thick of a viscosity Oil 
is used in the Dashpots. The thick oil restricts
the rising rate of the piston which then acts as the accelerator pump would 
on non CV Type Carbs.
  I run the middle strength spring, I think green color coded on mine.
Wayne Lee
wayne at sportsracer.com
wayne at sucarb.com

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 9:40 PM
To: "Triumph List" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

> On 30 Dec 2009 at 17:23, Wayne Lee wrote:
>
>> Yes, the Spitfire Float Bowls are essential in getting it right.
>
> Also consider the springs.  They must match the expected airflow.  If
> they were from a smaller engine, they will be too soft and the
> pistons will top out too soon.  This will make the mixture too rich
> at higher flow rates.  If they were from a larger engine they will be
> too stiff and the pistons won't open up enough.
>
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Dec  1 07:49:10 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 09:49:10 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
Message-ID: <cef.684c569f.384686e6@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/30/2009 3:13:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
anabil007 at comcast.net writes:

I am sure to be corrected if mistaken, but I believe the two screws  
on the windshield stanchion are unique, and of different lengths.  


I believe I will go with the screws are screwed up theory. I remember  
putting the top screw in, being concerned about the length and therefore not  
tightening it properly.  Now FT tells me that:
 
Yes you have 3 different size 
screws with the longest in the center,  I lean toward the screw being too 
long and cracking the glass.    FT
 
Are the correct screws available anywhere?  Geez, they are making  this 
hard.  TRF shows only one part # 552662 and has the warning  that a screw too 
long will crack the glass. 
 
Thanks to all for the information,
Darrell

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Dec  1 08:12:29 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 15:12:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] hep with brake/clutch line
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-W28028C80B49458722F9DF9F4970@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY116-W28028C80B49458722F9DF9F4970@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W1920C015654686D360B9E4E5960@phx.gbl>

Go TRF.

Best regards,
Tom



> From: tr_man at hotmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 10:34:33 -0800
> Subject: [TR] hep with brake/clutch line
>
>          Well I am looking for some help with the brake and clutch lines
that
> run from the master cylinder on a 54 TR-2,left hand drive. I wrote this
> yesterday, but put right hand drive. I did try and correct it, but for some
> reason they wouldn't post. Anyways, I can buy / burrow what ever will be
> easiest so I can have them made in stainless steel. I've tried Classic
Tube,
> Moss, etc to no avail. I don't have anything to start with. Anyone out
there
> have any ideas?
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Get gifts for them and cashback for you. Try Bing now.
http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=xbox+games&scope=cashback&form=MSHYCB&p
ubl=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_Shopping_Giftsforthem_cashback_1x1

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec  1 08:46:25 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Tue,  1 Dec 2009 10:46:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <20091201104625.AAL93824@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Wayne Lee wrote:
> But, Actually it's the other way around the softer Springs
> will let the pistons rise too soon as You say, but this
> makes the mixture too lean.

Ah, there is a wildcard here which hasn't been mentioned.  It's a question of point of view, really.  Let me re-phrase my statement:

It depends on how well the needles are calibrated for the airflow rate.  With fixed venturi and jet size the mixture normally gets richer as airflow goes up.  So if the needles are chosen right for the flow rates for which the piston is still operational the mixture will begin to get richer as the airflow rises above that rate which tops out the piston.

Whether it runs rich or lean below that point depends on the needles and idle setting.  You normally set the mixture at idle, but that may or may not get it right for part-throttle.  You might notice lean running at part-throttle, and adjust them richer to compensate.  That may even require too rich a mixture for idle.  But the real point is this - it will undergo a mode change between flow rates above and below the rate which tops out the piston.

On my own GT6 a PO had converted to MGB HS4's without changing the springs.  Just as you say, they tended to run lean when the mixture was set properly at idle.  Tweaking idle mixture and swapping needles could make it better, but the truly confusing behavior was that at full-throttle it screamed.  I kept asking myself how could it run so well at full-throttle while so lean below that?  The not so obvious explanation was the mode change to richer once the pistons topped out.  Once I replaced the springs the rest of the behavior fell into place.

Jim Muller

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 08:49:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 07:49:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
In-Reply-To: <cef.684c569f.384686e6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091201154936934.CJOF20286@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> TRF shows only one part # 552662 

There are only two different lengths, the other is available from TRF as P/N
561206.
http://tinyurl.com/ye4ethd

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 08:52:50 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 07:52:50 -0800
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!
In-Reply-To: <AEFEDAA0251144618308C080B7E89332@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <20091201155251532.UZHF1964@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> "The sales tax for a private sale is calculated at 6.25% of 
> the purchase 
> price or the National Automotive Dealer Association (NADA) 
> trade-in value, 
> whichever is higher."

Seems like the solution for that would be to state that the car is
non-operational.  The NADA guide clearly states that their bottom price does
not apply to non-operational or parts cars.

Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 09:24:23 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 16:24:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair
In-Reply-To: <2B2EE2E3FCAA4D52BCD31CA60AF77FFF@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <1897889432.152971259684663873.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

apt does good work.



----- Original Message -----
From: "FRED E THOMAS" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
To: L1J1S at aol.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 7:21:36 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr- gauge repair

NOT ==NISSONGER===, common nasty person B  FT
=================================================================
----- Original Message -----
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 8:06 PM
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair


> List, can someone rec' a place to have some gauges repaired in the B 
> northeast. B larry shwartz
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net B http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 09:25:44 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 16:25:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3
In-Reply-To: <49506C6EB2E1476CB5AF6F01285D407D@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <365623016.153881259684744367.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

go onto ebay, and find the silicone gaskets some guys sell.B  cheap, fits,
last forever.



----- Original Message -----
From: "FRED E THOMAS" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 6:36:49 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3

Ken Gilanders @ British Frame & Engine sells a very special unit produced in
the U/K, mine is almost 7 years old right now and no leaks ever B FT
=============================================================================
==================================
----- Original Message -----
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 11:23 AM
Subject: [TR] Valve cover gasket TR3


> Good morning List,
>
> I am wondering if there is anything better than the cork gasket for the
> stock chrome valve cover for my TR3A. B What are you using, stock from TRF,
> Moss, BPNW or some new space age material?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net B http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 09:39:25 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 11:39:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Unbelievable!
In-Reply-To: <20091201155251532.UZHF1964@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <AEFEDAA0251144618308C080B7E89332@mde.state.md.us>
	<20091201155251532.UZHF1964@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <A520B59AC0FD4E808D2EAF9B5054C3D2@DCH6RFC1>

Not in the wonderful state of Massachusetts. The value is regardless of the
state of the vehicle  (I just called the motor registry as well as the
department of revenues).

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 10:53 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Unbelievable!

> "The sales tax for a private sale is calculated at 6.25% of 
> the purchase 
> price or the National Automotive Dealer Association (NADA) 
> trade-in value, 
> whichever is higher."

Seems like the solution for that would be to state that the car is
non-operational.  The NADA guide clearly states that their bottom price does
not apply to non-operational or parts cars.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Dec  1 09:49:27 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 16:49:27 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <20091201104625.AAL93824@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091201104625.AAL93824@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <67476EAB4FF448CAB10D5E2AD8AB6110@artvac412870f0>

I'm always aware of the "Point of View" element. That's what opens the door 
to these ill perceptions.
An Increased Spring Rate will make any specific Needle run richer across the 
whole spectrum. No Exceptions!

  Another common reason for this particular Conversion resulting in too rich 
conditions is making sure the fuel Bowls are
the correct ones designed for the Spit and MGC. (AUD 2140) Just because you 
get Fuel Bowls that put them vertical
doesn't matter, if You use the taller (AUC 1310) it will result in overly 
rich conditions because of Fuel levels in the Bowls
that can't be corrected by Float level.

  If You are running the Stock Springs from a Donor Carb they will have most 
likely at least the "Red Spring" 4.5 oz
The Blue Spring(the lightest from the Midgets and spits at 2.5 oz wouldn't 
kikely be on HS6's. You don't get into the Yellow
or Green Spring Rates 11 and 15 oz respectively until You get into Healey 
territory which requires a richer mixture.
 You don't want to compensate for bad Needles with Springs. The Needle 
Profile or what Jim called "calibrated" is the
most important part. Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle 
then see where you are rich. At idle or popping on the Highway.
Then take it from there. The Springs should be your last concern.
Wayne

--------------------------------------------------
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 10:46 AM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

> Wayne Lee wrote:
>> But, Actually it's the other way around the softer Springs
>> will let the pistons rise too soon as You say, but this
>> makes the mixture too lean.
>
> Ah, there is a wildcard here which hasn't been mentioned.  It's a question 
> of point of view, really.  Let me re-phrase my statement:
>
> It depends on how well the needles are calibrated for the airflow rate. 
> With fixed venturi and jet size the mixture normally gets richer as 
> airflow goes up.  So if the needles are chosen right for the flow rates 
> for which the piston is still operational the mixture will begin to get 
> richer as the airflow rises above that rate which tops out the piston.
>
> Whether it runs rich or lean below that point depends on the needles and 
> idle setting.  You normally set the mixture at idle, but that may or may 
> not get it right for part-throttle.  You might notice lean running at 
> part-throttle, and adjust them richer to compensate.  That may even 
> require too rich a mixture for idle.  But the real point is this - it will 
> undergo a mode change between flow rates above and below the rate which 
> tops out the piston.
>
> On my own GT6 a PO had converted to MGB HS4's without changing the 
> springs.  Just as you say, they tended to run lean when the mixture was 
> set properly at idle.  Tweaking idle mixture and swapping needles could 
> make it better, but the truly confusing behavior was that at full-throttle 
> it screamed.  I kept asking myself how could it run so well at 
> full-throttle while so lean below that?  The not so obvious explanation 
> was the mode change to richer once the pistons topped out.  Once I 
> replaced the springs the rest of the behavior fell into place.
>
> Jim Muller

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Dec  1 09:58:27 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 16:58:27 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <2FDC7CB6EDDE4CA5A57A62E1D5B97485@artvac412870f0>

This last portion should of read. Fine at Idle but popping lean
on the Highway.

" Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle
 then see where you are rich. At idle or popping on the Highway."

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 11:49 AM
To: <jimmuller at rcn.com>; "Triumph List" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

> I'm always aware of the "Point of View" element. That's what opens the 
> door to these ill perceptions.
> An Increased Spring Rate will make any specific Needle run richer across 
> the whole spectrum. No Exceptions!
>
>  Another common reason for this particular Conversion resulting in too 
> rich conditions is making sure the fuel Bowls are
> the correct ones designed for the Spit and MGC. (AUD 2140) Just because 
> you get Fuel Bowls that put them vertical
> doesn't matter, if You use the taller (AUC 1310) it will result in overly 
> rich conditions because of Fuel levels in the Bowls
> that can't be corrected by Float level.
>
>  If You are running the Stock Springs from a Donor Carb they will have 
> most likely at least the "Red Spring" 4.5 oz
> The Blue Spring(the lightest from the Midgets and spits at 2.5 oz wouldn't 
> kikely be on HS6's. You don't get into the Yellow
> or Green Spring Rates 11 and 15 oz respectively until You get into Healey 
> territory which requires a richer mixture.
> You don't want to compensate for bad Needles with Springs. The Needle 
> Profile or what Jim called "calibrated" is the
> most important part. Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle 
> then see where you are rich. At idle or popping on the Highway.
> Then take it from there. The Springs should be your last concern.
> Wayne

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec  1 11:00:30 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Tue,  1 Dec 2009 13:00:30 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <20091201130030.AAM44421@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

> An Increased Spring Rate will make any specific Needle run
> richer across the whole spectrum. No Exceptions!

No argument.  However:

> You don't want to compensate for bad Needles with Springs.
> ...Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle
> then see where you are rich...
> The Springs should be your last concern.

At no point was I saying one should compensate for anything by swapping springs.  Let me try this again.

1. If the springs are incorrect but you are not aware that different springs are even available, you may be tempted to change to thinner needles (or bigger jets?) and/or tweak the idle mixture to get it to run well on the highway.  You will be changing needles and mixture to compensate for the springs, not the other way around.

2. There is a behavioral change between the piston operating in its range and topped out.  Once it is topped out the mixture will get richer as the airflow increases, regardless of how well or poorly it was set before.  If you use full-throttle behavior as a data point you will be mislead by that change.

3. It happens in real life that people make that error, swapping carbs between engines of different sizes.  My GT6 had red (IIRC) needles but needed yellow.  It took me a long time to learn this lesson.
--
Jim M

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Dec  1 11:28:20 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 18:28:20 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <20091201104625.AAL93824@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091201104625.AAL93824@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <AFDEC00B9A5342F99C77F7802EFA2431@artvac412870f0>

Hi Jim,
Just reading back on your previous reply I noticed this.

Jim Wrote:
"Just as you say, they tended to run lean when the mixture was
 set properly at idle.  Tweaking idle mixture and swapping needles could
 make it better"

I didn't mention anything about the Carbs probably running lean at idle. The
springs have no effect on that. As for your Car running strong under full 
throttle,
it was either too lean at idle speed and was being corrected under 
acceleration by
very viscous Dashpot Oil or too rich at idle and being corrected by too 
light of a Spring
under Full Throttle, or too thin an oil like Marvel Mystery Oil which I have 
run before in the winter
on some Cars in the past. Notably Rover 3-Litre.

Wayne 

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Dec  1 11:44:02 2009
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 13:44:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan extention housing and bolt removal
Message-ID: <4b1563f2.39e.4cc2.31221@cogeco.ca>

Hi folks,

I'm trying to remove timing cover and I'm stuck on the fan extension, the fan is off and the bolts at the back of the
extension are loose, the two peice pulley is loose, but the extension is rock solid.

What does the long bolt through the centre of the extension bolt to, the pulley housing or the crankshaft?   I'm
guessing the crankshaft.

If it's the latter, what sort of tool do I use to take that bolt out as it has the oddball surface used by the hand
crank instead of a normal bolt head?  I'm also guessing it will likely require enough force that the engine will just
turn over.

Thanks,

Art.

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Dec  1 11:52:39 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 18:52:39 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <20091201130030.AAM44421@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091201130030.AAM44421@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <280E871AEA86451DA3AD4C76CCDC7693@artvac412870f0>

Jim Wrote:
"It happens in real life that people make that error, swapping carbs between 
engines of different sizes.  My GT6 had red (IIRC) needles but needed 
yellow.  It took me a long time to learn this lesson."

Evidently. The lessons not over yet . The Springs are Color Coded not the 
Needles.
Also I'm familiar with the Carb swapping in real life. Have done many 
Conversions, Weber, Dellorto's,
SU's, Just never swapped any Zenith products onto anything except replacing 
Land rovers Solex with them.
Worse Carburettor, just Cheaper than finding a good LR Solex.

Jim Wrote: Previous post:
"Also consider the springs.  They must match the expected airflow.  If
they were from a smaller engine, they will be too soft and the
pistons will top out too soon.  This will make the mixture too rich
at higher flow rates."

I must of misread this one from your previous post. I took it to mean that
You thought that if the Springs were too soft and the
pistons topped out too soon, that this would make the mixture too rich
at higher flow rates.

This was the whole reason I got involved in this discussion to set the 
record straight on that thought.
(Kids could be reading this) Now You have "No argument " over Softer Springs 
= Leaner Running.

Bottom line is the Needles are the heart of tuning the SU's the Springs will 
have the least effect.
As Joe Curto says, "most times You can throw through 3 sets of Needles 
before getting it right".

We're getting somewhere now.
Cheers,
Wayne

--------------------------------------------------
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 1:00 PM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

>> An Increased Spring Rate will make any specific Needle run
>> richer across the whole spectrum. No Exceptions!
>
> No argument.  However:
>
>> You don't want to compensate for bad Needles with Springs.
>> ...Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle
>> then see where you are rich...
>> The Springs should be your last concern.
>
> At no point was I saying one should compensate for anything by swapping 
> springs.  Let me try this again.
>
> 1. If the springs are incorrect but you are not aware that different 
> springs are even available, you may be tempted to change to thinner 
> needles (or bigger jets?) and/or tweak the idle mixture to get it to run 
> well on the highway.  You will be changing needles and mixture to 
> compensate for the springs, not the other way around.
>
> 2. There is a behavioral change between the piston operating in its range 
> and topped out.  Once it is topped out the mixture will get richer as the 
> airflow increases, regardless of how well or poorly it was set before.  If 
> you use full-throttle behavior as a data point you will be mislead by that 
> change.
>
> 3. It happens in real life that people make that error, swapping carbs 
> between engines of different sizes.  My GT6 had red (IIRC) needles but 
> needed yellow.  It took me a long time to learn this lesson.
> --
> Jim M

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 11:53:27 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 10:53:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <20091201130030.AAM44421@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091201130030.AAM44421@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <65ADE9140D4F44D380653F06F9235135@jdnet.deere.com>

> 2. There is a behavioral change between the piston operating 
> in its range and topped out.  Once it is topped out the 
> mixture will get richer as the airflow increases, regardless 
> of how well or poorly it was set before.  If you use 
> full-throttle behavior as a data point you will be mislead by 
> that change.

Seems to me that this is exactly the same thing that happens when using too
small a fixed venturi carburetor.  Not only does the mixture go rich, but
the pressure drop across the carb increases, leading to less than maximum
power.  In general, if you are going to all the trouble of doing a carb swap
for improved performance, it's probably best to choose a carb large enough
for your application and thus avoid this situation.

Same thing applies (to a lesser extent) for using heavier springs.  You're
throwing WOT power away by reducing maximum airflow.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 11:57:34 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 10:57:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair
In-Reply-To: <1897889432.152971259684663873.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <2B2EE2E3FCAA4D52BCD31CA60AF77FFF@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<1897889432.152971259684663873.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <FADF08B094834AEC9B9907A9033E767D@jdnet.deere.com>

> apt does good work.

Are you talking about this APT?
http://www.aptfast.com/

I didn't even know they did gauges.

But it does appear they are offering "super duty" lifters for our engines
... Anyone have experience with these?

-- Randall  

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Dec  1 12:46:51 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 19:46:51 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <65ADE9140D4F44D380653F06F9235135@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20091201130030.AAM44421@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<65ADE9140D4F44D380653F06F9235135@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <8EF33229875B4ED98146DCC0CCCDB10B@artvac412870f0>

HS6's should be fine for improved performance over the ZS's in a GT6.
It's only a 2-Litre and they're an improvement over the ZS's on the 2.5 TR6.
Drivability wise they come on just off idle without the Stromberg's flat 
spot.
If He was doing a lot of other Mods he could go bigger with an SU still, 
like
HS8's off of a Rover 2000 TC or whatever. That would be overkill unless it's
wound up tight.

I know Jim meant he needed Yellow springs not Needles, That sounds strange
it would need a Spring more than twice as strong as the Red one that came in 
the
P1800's that had  more stock HP. I run the Yellow as well in my TR6, No 
power
being thrown away, it's a balancing act against fuel economy. The Pistons 
are fully
opened before max revs.To run Webers
would throw away a lot more wasted Fuel unless it's being driven in Time 
Trials
etc. The whole package is only as good as the weakest link. HS6's are plenty
of Carb for a street driven 2-Litre. HS6's should be good to 135 HP anyway.
Running larger Carbs wouldn't avoid this situation,
there's plenty of them being driven out there not in an optimal state of 
tune. It
would take just as much time to get them right as well. But if You were to, 
at
least You can't over Carburate using SU's like Webers. If You were to run 
DCOE
48's or something without the rest of the package to back it up, there'd be 
bigger problems.
Wayne



--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 1:53 PM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

>> 2. There is a behavioral change between the piston operating
>> in its range and topped out.  Once it is topped out the
>> mixture will get richer as the airflow increases, regardless
>> of how well or poorly it was set before.  If you use
>> full-throttle behavior as a data point you will be mislead by
>> that change.
>
> Seems to me that this is exactly the same thing that happens when using 
> too
> small a fixed venturi carburetor.  Not only does the mixture go rich, but
> the pressure drop across the carb increases, leading to less than maximum
> power.  In general, if you are going to all the trouble of doing a carb 
> swap
> for improved performance, it's probably best to choose a carb large enough
> for your application and thus avoid this situation.
>
> Same thing applies (to a lesser extent) for using heavier springs.  You're
> throwing WOT power away by reducing maximum airflow.
>
> -- Randall

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Dec  1 12:52:19 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 14:52:19 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
Message-ID: <ccb.5cb8d62a.3846cdf3@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/1/2009 11:18:08 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

There are only two different lengths, the other is available from TRF  as 
P/N
561206.


Thanks Randall,
You are right I ordered both sizes from the TRF website.
Cheers,
Darrell

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 13:09:33 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 12:09:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan extention housing and bolt removal
In-Reply-To: <4b1563f2.39e.4cc2.31221@cogeco.ca>
References: <4b1563f2.39e.4cc2.31221@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <7BCA2358BCEF44E6AC8330D7F0FE35B0@jdnet.deere.com>

> What does the long bolt through the centre of the extension 
> bolt to, the pulley housing or the crankshaft?   I'm
> guessing the crankshaft.

Yup, it goes all the way into the crankshaft and must be removed to remove
the extension, hub, timing cover, etc.

> what sort of tool do I use 

I forget the size offhand, but a standard 6-point socket will grab it
securely in spite of the rounded corners.  A stout impact wrench is by far
the easiest method, IMO, as it will work against the inertia of the engine.
Otherwise, you are going to need a long breaker bar and some method of
locking the engine.  I have gotten by with putting the gearbox in 4th gear
and setting the parking brake firmly; but that apparently isn't enough in
some cases.  Another trick I've heard is to rest the handle against the
ground (or the frame) and hit the starter.

Or if appearance isn't important to you, a big pipe wrench right on the
extension would probably work.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 13:16:38 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 12:16:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
In-Reply-To: <ccb.5cb8d62a.3846cdf3@aol.com>
References: <ccb.5cb8d62a.3846cdf3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5F3955466CD6437EAB1DDE10C37A68DF@jdnet.deere.com>

> You are right I ordered both sizes from the TRF website.

Although I doubt this is your problem, Darrell, it might be worth mentioning
that it is important to have the 'tenon plates' (aka 'metal weatherstrip'
Stanpart 560630) between the stanchion and windscreen frame.  Otherwise even
the 'correct' screws may be too long.

-- Randall  

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Dec  1 13:19:08 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 14:19:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
References: <20091201130030.AAM44421@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <6B4E8CC6AE574CB2B51AB20FB938A8C0@trigeni.com>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


>> An Increased Spring Rate will make any specific Needle run
>> richer across the whole spectrum. No Exceptions!
>
> No argument.  However:

Interesting discussion.  I looked in my copy of "Tuning SU Carburettors" 
(Speed Sport Publications, 1968), and the authors have this to say about 
springs:

1. The rates for springs up to the 1 3/4 bore size are 2 1/2 oz (blue), 4 
1/2 oz (red), 8 oz (yellow) and 12 oz (green)
2. "It should be noted that a change from a medium spring (say the red) to a 
weaker one (blue), will have the effect of weakening the mixture throughout 
the range. The effect of going to a stronger one will be to enrich the 
mixture throughout the range."

I googled this book to see if it is still available and I found a PDF of it 
at:

http://www.sterlingbritishmotoringsociety.org/files/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf

It's worth downloading if you are into carb swaps.  There is a list in the 
appendix showing the standard needle/spring combinations for most English 
cars of the pre-68 vintage.  The book suggests using a needle/spring 
combination from a vehicle with similar carb size and similar power output 
as a starting point when setting up SUs on an engine that was not originally 
so equipped.

Mike

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Dec  1 14:00:44 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 16:00:44 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
Message-ID: <c7a.667ed548.3846ddfc@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/1/2009 3:40:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

Although I doubt this is your problem, Darrell, it might be worth  
mentioning
that it is important to have the 'tenon plates' (aka 'metal  weatherstrip'
Stanpart 560630) between the stanchion and windscreen  frame.  Otherwise 
even
the 'correct' screws may be too  long.


Yeah Randall I have those.  I am trying to remember what goes  around the 
glass itself before the chrome strip goes on? For that matter  I can't 
remember what holds the chrome strip surround on  either. Something like cloth 
electrical tape??  Not seeing any parts  there?  I am going to have to wait 4 
to 6 weeks for a new  windscreen.  I would like to have all the other parts 
in hand  too. Perhaps I should have a professional do it this time.   Sort of 
slipping a bit here on my TR rebuilding skills!
Darrell 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 14:10:40 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 21:10:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
In-Reply-To: <5F3955466CD6437EAB1DDE10C37A68DF@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <387374561.10955921259701840591.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Joe Alexander (ARE) makes a really nice replacement tenon if yours are worn and pitted. 
Tom 

Although I doubt this is your problem, Darrell, it might be worth mentioning 
that it is important to have the 'tenon plates' (aka 'metal weatherstrip' 
Stanpart 560630) between the stanchion and windscreen frame. Otherwise even 
the 'correct' screws may be too long. 

-- Randall 

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Dec  1 14:18:29 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 21:18:29 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <6B4E8CC6AE574CB2B51AB20FB938A8C0@trigeni.com>
References: <20091201130030.AAM44421@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<6B4E8CC6AE574CB2B51AB20FB938A8C0@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <7187AFEA252742EEA1624B4C4AB1A93D@artvac412870f0>

Hi Mike,
    Yes, that's what I meant when I wrote:" An Increased Spring Rate will 
make any specific Needle run
 richer across the whole spectrum. No Exceptions! "

That means even if the Needle is the wrong profile and runs leaner than it 
should at 75 mph but isn't bad under
2500 rpm's, the heavier Spring will richen it up evenly across the board. 
Maybe making it the proper Air/Fuel ratio
at 75 mph., but making it run in an over enriched mixture when running again 
below 2500 rpm's.

    The idea is to get it running at as good an Air/Fuel mixture at all rev 
ranges, then use as light a Spring as necessary.
When everything else is ideal except maybe getting a lean Pop at higher 
rpm's., the next highest rate Spring could be
just the ticket. When You have large contrasts in Mixtures over the Rev 
Range, You fix the Needle profile first as a Spring change
alone isn't going to do it. Modifications such as Camshafts with longer 
duration, Headers, C/R, Free Flow Exhaust and Air Filters
can alter the needs over a Stock Needle application. Conversions only 
complicate things further.

I have the Book You mention, but I always like them in PDF Form as well so I 
can check them out here at work while the CNC's are
running and nobody knows what I'm really doing. Thanks for the link, I'll 
download that.
Wayne


--------------------------------------------------
From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr at notwires.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 3:19 PM
To: <jimmuller at rcn.com>; <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 12:00 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?
>
>
>>> An Increased Spring Rate will make any specific Needle run
>>> richer across the whole spectrum. No Exceptions!
>>
>> No argument.  However:
>
> Interesting discussion.  I looked in my copy of "Tuning SU Carburettors" 
> (Speed Sport Publications, 1968), and the authors have this to say about 
> springs:
>
> 1. The rates for springs up to the 1 3/4 bore size are 2 1/2 oz (blue), 4 
> 1/2 oz (red), 8 oz (yellow) and 12 oz (green)
> 2. "It should be noted that a change from a medium spring (say the red) to 
> a weaker one (blue), will have the effect of weakening the mixture 
> throughout the range. The effect of going to a stronger one will be to 
> enrich the mixture throughout the range."
>
> I googled this book to see if it is still available and I found a PDF of 
> it at:
>
> http://www.sterlingbritishmotoringsociety.org/files/Tuning_SU_Carbs.pdf
>
> It's worth downloading if you are into carb swaps.  There is a list in the 
> appendix showing the standard needle/spring combinations for most English 
> cars of the pre-68 vintage.  The book suggests using a needle/spring 
> combination from a vehicle with similar carb size and similar power output 
> as a starting point when setting up SUs on an engine that was not 
> originally so equipped.
>
> Mike

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 14:18:51 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 13:18:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3b windscreen cracked, again!
In-Reply-To: <c7a.667ed548.3846ddfc@aol.com>
References: <c7a.667ed548.3846ddfc@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C714D51BE4D14FA8BE87984098E41A5E@jdnet.deere.com>

>  I am trying to remember 
> what goes around the glass itself before the chrome strip 
> goes on?

The SPC describes it as "rubber, glazing", but some cars seem to have a
material more like friction tape (rubber coated cloth).  TRF P/N CD31407 or
Moss 680-455.

> For that matter I can't remember what holds the 
> chrome strip surround on either.

There are angle brackets and 4 screws at each lower corner that fasten the
frame pieces together.  It's not actually fixed to the glass at all, the
glass more-or-less floats inside the rubber glazing.

>  Perhaps I should 
> have a professional do it this time.

That's what I opted for, many years ago, and never regretted it.  I first
asked if they could supply the glass, then when they said "no", I brought
them the glass and frame, let them supply the glazing.  There is some small
variation in replacement glass thickness, apparently, so IMO it's prudent to
let a professional choose the glazing to suit the glass.  The cost was
minimal, perhaps $15 (in 1975).

-- Randall  

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Dec  1 15:29:55 2009
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 17:29:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan extention housing and bolt removal
In-Reply-To: <7BCA2358BCEF44E6AC8330D7F0FE35B0@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <4b1563f2.39e.4cc2.31221@cogeco.ca>
	<7BCA2358BCEF44E6AC8330D7F0FE35B0@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4B1598E3.3050309@cogeco.ca>

Thanks guys,   hmm rebuilt starter new last year, wonder if warranty 
would cover that?  ;)
>   Another trick I've heard is to rest the handle against the
> ground (or the frame) and hit the starter.
>
> Or if appearance isn't important to you, a big pipe wrench right on the
> extension would probably work.
>
> -- Randall  

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec  1 15:35:29 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Tue,  1 Dec 2009 17:35:29 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <20091201173529.AAN39702@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Wayne Lee wrote:
> HS6's should be fine for improved performance over the ZS's
> in a GT6.

Well one would think so.  Unfortunately (as I wrote before, and note it wasn't my car which originated this discussion) the PO who did my conversion used HS4's from an MGB (which was 1800cc, no?).  Even further, from the serial numbers it appears they were 1980 and so would have been calibrated to idle lean and with full emissions controls in place.  The typical response, which is what I did, would be to question mixture and then if that didn't answer spend the money on needles after consulting Joe Curto.  It didn't answer, and eventually after much time and attempted tuning had elapsed another call to Joe Curto revealed that the proper springs HS4 for a TR 2000cc engine was yellow.  I ended up sending some extra needles to Randall but I don't think I ever investigated whehther the original needle swap had even been necessary.  But if anyone, Joe Curto included, had suggested to me earlier on that the springs are a swappable item too it would have save me a bit of money and a !
mort of trouble.  Until then I had had no call to think about the question.

> I know Jim meant he needed Yellow springs not Needles,

Isn't Yellow Springs some place far away from here?  Needles too, I think.
--
Jim Muller

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Dec  1 15:49:00 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 17:49:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan extention housing and bolt removal
In-Reply-To: <4b1563f2.39e.4cc2.31221@cogeco.ca>
References: <4b1563f2.39e.4cc2.31221@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <200912011749.00731.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 01 December 2009 01:44:02 pm amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote:
> Hi folks,
> 
> I'm trying to remove timing cover and I'm stuck on the fan extension, the
>  fan is off and the bolts at the back of the extension are loose, the two
>  peice pulley is loose, but the extension is rock solid.
> 
> What does the long bolt through the centre of the extension bolt to, the
>  pulley housing or the crankshaft?   I'm guessing the crankshaft.
> 
> If it's the latter, what sort of tool do I use to take that bolt out as it
>  has the oddball surface used by the hand crank instead of a normal bolt
>  head?  I'm also guessing it will likely require enough force that the
>  engine will just turn over.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Art.
> 
Art,


Yes that bolt needs to be removed in order to remove the fan extension and the 
pulley assembly.

Cant remember the socket size but I used a 6 point impact socket with impact 
wrench and it just spins right off. You may be able to get it with a breaker 
bar but someone will have to apply the breaks. But that might not work if the 
bolt is tight enough and they usually are!

Just make sure you use short bursts of the impact and use a 6 point socket.

Bob

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Dec  1 16:28:59 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 23:28:59 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <20091201173529.AAN39702@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091201173529.AAN39702@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <B685C06C4001426FA2E1B36E75A38238@artvac412870f0>

Hi Jim,
    HS4's are a different story and in 1980 the MGB had a single Stromberg 
175.
HS6's would have been a good move. My old 69 GT6+ had 95 HP. My old Volvo
1966 Volvo P1800S put out 115 with 1800 cc's. and the twin SU's.
The old Volvo's are the #1 donor of old SU's for old Brit Sports Cars.
Cheers,
Wayne
64 TR4 (Future Project)
75 TR6 (Daily Driver till next week)





--------------------------------------------------
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2009 5:35 PM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

> Wayne Lee wrote:
>> HS6's should be fine for improved performance over the ZS's
>> in a GT6.
>
> Well one would think so.  Unfortunately (as I wrote before, and note it 
> wasn't my car which originated this discussion) the PO who did my 
> conversion used HS4's from an MGB (which was 1800cc, no?).  Even further, 
> from the serial numbers it appears they were 1980 and so would have been 
> calibrated to idle lean and with full emissions controls in place.  The 
> typical response, which is what I did, would be to question mixture and 
> then if that didn't answer spend the money on needles after consulting Joe 
> Curto.  It didn't answer, and eventually after much time and attempted 
> tuning had elapsed another call to Joe Curto revealed that the proper 
> springs HS4 for a TR 2000cc engine was yellow.  I ended up sending some 
> extra needles to Randall but I don't think I ever investigated whehther 
> the original needle swap had even been necessary.  But if anyone, Joe 
> Curto included, had suggested to me earlier on that the springs are a 
> swappable item too it would have save me a bit of money and a
>  !
> mort of trouble.  Until then I had had no call to think about the 
> question.
>
>> I know Jim meant he needed Yellow springs not Needles,
>
> Isn't Yellow Springs some place far away from here?  Needles too, I think.
> --
> Jim Muller
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Tue Dec  1 17:15:00 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 19:15:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vent-a-block
Message-ID: <f99bbf590912011615o62ace03dr743513569be65e72@mail.gmail.com>

Due to server changes at our ISP I'm in the process of updating our
website.  Several years ago Bob Kramer had an unfortunate incident
occur at Mosport.  Bob capitalized on the situation to develop this
amazing new product.  Susan took the time to document his efforts and
although many of you have already seen this but for those that haven't
here is the new link to it:  http://campkahler.com/ventablock/

Enjoy!

Brad

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Tue Dec  1 17:18:54 2009
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 19:18:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan extention housing and bolt removal
In-Reply-To: <200912011749.00731.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <4b1563f2.39e.4cc2.31221@cogeco.ca>
	<200912011749.00731.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4B15B26E.1050109@cogeco.ca>

Impact wrench and 120psi compressor wouldn't cut it but a pipe wrench on 
the extension and jambed against the frame and a 3' length of steel pipe 
on the socket gave me enough leverage.

Thanks folks...

Bob wrote:
>
> Cant remember the socket size but I used a 6 point impact socket with impact 
> wrench and it just spins right off. You may be able to get it with a breaker 
> bar but someone will have to apply the breaks. But that might not work if the 
> bolt is tight enough and they usually are!
>
> Just make sure you use short bursts of the impact and use a 6 point socket.
>
> Bob

From bkahler1 at gmail.com  Tue Dec  1 17:20:47 2009
From: bkahler1 at gmail.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 19:20:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Vent-A-Block
Message-ID: <f99bbf590912011620p2784cf87qfe5ecad415701f81@mail.gmail.com>

Due to server changes at our ISP I'm in the process of updating our
website.  Several years ago Bob Kramer had an unfortunate incident
occur at Mosport.  Bob capitalized on the situation to develop this
amazing new product.

Susan took the time to document his efforts and
although many of you have already seen this but for those that haven't
here is the new link to it:

http://campkahler.com/ventablock/

Enjoy!

Brad

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Dec  1 17:22:29 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 19:22:29 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan extention housing and bolt removal
Message-ID: <bca.5e5e707e.38470d45@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/1/2009 5:57:37 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

Cant  remember the socket size but I used a 6 point impact socket with 
impact  
wrench and it just spins right off. You may be able to get it with a  
breaker 
bar but someone will have to apply the breaks. But that might not  work if 
the 
bolt is tight enough and they usually  are!



I can't  help myself to respond to this one although my response will  have 
little merit. YES, for removal of those big nuts up front on various TR  
motors an impact wrench is nothing less than "the best thing since sliced  
bread". Believe me I know for during my years of Bush League or Shade Tree  
mechanics I have attempted all variants of alternative methods with little or 
no  success to get those off, usually resulting in a busted knuckle  or two. 
Really, with an impact wrench you can have it off and in you hand in a  few 
seconds. Never forget the first time I tried it. OH so way cool. I  also 
have used one to torque the nut back on!  I always wondered  about that?  Not 
sure if it is proper but that is the way is for  me.
Darrell

From spook01 at comcast.net  Tue Dec  1 17:35:23 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 00:35:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair
In-Reply-To: <FADF08B094834AEC9B9907A9033E767D@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1379230550.399921259714123531.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

these are the guys:



http://www.gaugeguys.com/repair.htm



APT Instruments Intl Inc, 9632 Humboldt Ave S, Bloomington MN 55431



I have had severalB gaugesB from classic british rebuilt or upgraded by these
guys.B  good to work with, good turnaround time.



rayB 


----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2009 12:57:34 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Tr- gauge repair

> apt does good work.

Are you talking about this APT?
http://www.aptfast.com/

I didn't even know they did gauges.

But it does appear they are offering "super duty" lifters for our engines
... Anyone have experience with these?

-- Randall B 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  1 21:02:28 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 20:02:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair
In-Reply-To: <1379230550.399921259714123531.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20091202040228015.DPOQ5818@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> these are the guys:
> http://www.gaugeguys.com/repair.htm

Thanks for the clarification, and link, Ray.

Randall

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec  1 21:47:41 2009
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2009 20:47:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3A Fan extention housing and bolt removal
Message-ID: <573096.12857.qm@web80406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I use a 6-point [12 point won't work] 1-1/8 1/2" drive socket with my
strongest air impact wrench. Easy.

brgds, Jay

'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

>
what sort of tool do I use 

I forget the size offhand, but a standard 6-point
socket will grab it
securely in spite of the rounded corners.  A stout impact
wrench is by far
the easiest method, IMO, as it will work against the inertia
of the engine.
Otherwise, you are going to need a long breaker bar and some
method of
locking the engine.  I have gotten by with putting the gearbox in
4th gear
and setting the parking brake firmly; but that apparently isn't
enough in
some cases.  Another trick I've heard is to rest the handle against
the
ground (or the frame) and hit the starter.

Or if appearance isn't
important to you, a big pipe wrench right on the
extension would probably
work.

-- Randall 

From spamiam at comcast.net  Wed Dec  2 07:37:27 2009
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 09:37:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <3560184BDA994CF3B2C71893960A8E9C@I7QUAD>

>You don't want to compensate for bad Needles with Springs. The Needle
>Profile or what Jim called "calibrated" is the
>most important part. Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle
>then see where you are rich. At idle or popping on the Highway.
>Then take it from there. The Springs should be your last concern.
>Wayne

Wayne,

I'd say that you need to figure out your spring first, since it (as you say)
determines which part of the needle profile is operational at any given power
level (and controls the amount of "constant depression").

The way to determine this? Not simple.  You can guesstimate it from the spring
used on other cars with similar HP and carb choke size.  You can directly
determine it by looking for just reaching full piston lift at maximum flow
rate.  Unless you get a child to ride alongside the engine as you race down
the road, I suppose the only way to do this is on a dyno.

Excessively strong springs will work, but will cause greater restriction on
air flow than necessary.  I.E.  you have smaller choke carbs!  Excessively
weak springs will also work OK, until you get to maximum lift.  At that point
you lose the ability to control the misture with the needle, and the mixture
is determined as if the carb were a fixed choke type.  Mixture will be
dependent on airflow to some degree.

Of course you will have to select different needles for the different spring
rates.

-Tony

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 07:54:41 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 14:54:41 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <3560184BDA994CF3B2C71893960A8E9C@I7QUAD>
References: <3560184BDA994CF3B2C71893960A8E9C@I7QUAD>
Message-ID: <FC2B7C1252954F13887D03568911BA43@artvac412870f0>

Hi Tony,
  The Spring Rate first is a no brainer of course since the HS6's would come
with a Spring in the Ballpark
for the application We were discussing..
  The reason You don't spend much time on altering the Spring rate is because
they make only about 2-3
possible Spring rates at the most for any general Application, and about 25
Needle profiles that could work.
  I've never had the stock Red or a Yellow Spring not get me into an area
where a sweet Spot couldn't be
found by going a step or 2 in either direction with a Needle profile. How
about You?

Tony Wrote:
"Of course you will have to select different needles for the different spring
rates"

Not when there are only a couple possible choices of Springs that make sense
out of the 4 Available, and 100 Needles to choose
from.
Wayne
wayne at sucarb.com



From: Anthony Rhodes
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 9:37 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; wayne at motorcarriage.com
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


>You don't want to compensate for bad Needles with Springs. The Needle
>Profile or what Jim called "calibrated" is the
>most important part. Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle
>then see where you are rich. At idle or popping on the Highway.
>Then take it from there. The Springs should be your last concern.
>Wayne

Wayne,

I'd say that you need to figure out your spring first, since it (as you say)
determines which part of the needle profile is operational at any given power
level (and controls the amount of "constant depression").

The way to determine this? Not simple.  You can guesstimate it from the spring
used on other cars with similar HP and carb choke size.  You can directly
determine it by looking for just reaching full piston lift at maximum flow
rate.  Unless you get a child to ride alongside the engine as you race down
the road, I suppose the only way to do this is on a dyno.

Excessively strong springs will work, but will cause greater restriction on
air flow than necessary.  I.E.  you have smaller choke carbs!  Excessively
weak springs will also work OK, until you get to maximum lift.  At that point
you lose the ability to control the misture with the needle, and the mixture
is determined as if the carb were a fixed choke type.  Mixture will be
dependent on airflow to some degree.

Of course you will have to select different needles for the different spring
rates.

-Tony

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Dec  2 09:33:35 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 10:33:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
References: <3560184BDA994CF3B2C71893960A8E9C@I7QUAD>
Message-ID: <4D4E67BDE0C4466581E799FD87934281@yourpd3mh0abgs>

if i were you guys, i would give joe curto a ring since he has worked on the 
carbs longer than most have been screwing them up!
let him select a spring and needle from his lists and send it out to you.
Best,
Ray


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


> >You don't want to compensate for bad Needles with Springs. The Needle
>>Profile or what Jim called "calibrated" is the
>>most important part. Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle
>>then see where you are rich. At idle or popping on the Highway.
>>Then take it from there. The Springs should be your last concern.
>>Wayne
>
> Wayne,
>
> I'd say that you need to figure out your spring first, since it (as you 
> say)
> determines which part of the needle profile is operational at any given 
> power
> level (and controls the amount of "constant depression").
>
> The way to determine this? Not simple.  You can guesstimate it from the 
> spring
> used on other cars with similar HP and carb choke size.  You can directly
> determine it by looking for just reaching full piston lift at maximum flow
> rate.  Unless you get a child to ride alongside the engine as you race 
> down
> the road, I suppose the only way to do this is on a dyno.
>
> Excessively strong springs will work, but will cause greater restriction 
> on
> air flow than necessary.  I.E.  you have smaller choke carbs!  Excessively
> weak springs will also work OK, until you get to maximum lift.  At that 
> point
> you lose the ability to control the misture with the needle, and the 
> mixture
> is determined as if the carb were a fixed choke type.  Mixture will be
> dependent on airflow to some degree.
>
> Of course you will have to select different needles for the different 
> spring
> rates.
>
> -Tony
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Dec  2 10:44:11 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed,  2 Dec 2009 12:44:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Two quick items:

Tony wrote:
> Unless you get a child to ride alongside the engine as you
> race down the road, I suppose the only way to do this is
> on a dyno.

I've considered whether I could mount a light and USB webcam under the hood and record them via laptop.  A recording of just the manual lift-the-piston button might not capture enough displacement though.  Might have to do it with air cleaners removed.  Not sure how much I like that idea though it might be okay for a short while.

Spook01 wrote:
> if i were you guys, i would give joe curto a ring 

Exactly what I did.  Wished I'd known more before I called.  And Joe C. has what might be called a somewhat curt-o manner which discourages free Socratic-style question and answer dialogue.

Personal trigger factor here, not meant to disparage Joe C. at all:  I am delighted when I find an expert on a subject and I will gladly overpay for that expertise.  However I expect one benefit of that expertise to be helping me avoid the sort of mistakes, extra expenses, and long delays which I would experienced if I'd just done the job myself.
--
Jim Muller

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 11:27:13 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 18:27:13 -0000
Subject: [TR] Fw:  zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <6C233BB5A9F14696832EF0E6FDEE0BCB@artvac412870f0>

I don't know why this didn't go thru the first time at noon. Cleaned up some
space on the bottom.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 12:03 PM
To: "spook01" <spook01 at comcast.net>; "Triumph List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

 I spoke to Joe yesterday on another matter. I don't have any issues with my
 SU's on my TR6. I mentioned him sending out a set of Needles to try on my 
TR6 SU's the
 way I set it with BAE that are now of the fixed type. I had since modified 
the
 profiles on another set on my old 1936 Lorch & Schmidt Watchmakers Lathe 
and will be trying those.
 Joe knows there is no set prescription for the fine tuning of Conversion 
Jobs. He said
 why pay $15.00 for a set of Needles You might have to throw away. I'm going 
to go the
 conservative route and get another Set with plenty of Stock on them to 
modify the profile.
 He sold me complete rebuild Kits with Needles and Diaphragms for the 2" 
HD8's on my
 65 Rolls Silver Cloud but that was an easy application to figure out on 
Cars
 with stock configurations.

  A funny thing he did say was his opinion on everyone's opinions on forums
 and the such on SU Carbs and their Op Ed Websites and some do more harm 
than good
 spreading misinformation.I forgot his exact phrase, but if You know Joe it 
was something to the
 effect. "that opinions are like some anatomical orifice(I forget) and that 
everybody has one"
  Other than having my Tool & Die Machinery here at work to help when doing
 SU work, I discovered my Hobbyist Horological equipment invaluable in 
rebuilding SU's
 from the Ultrasonic Cleaner to the Watchmakers Lathes to re-profile Needles 
and make up Shaft
 Bushings etc..Thankfully my SU's are doing great, but I don't mind 
tinkering to see if
 they could be improved, short of using an Exhaust Gas Analyzer.
  There's not a Carburetor around simpler to work on or modify than the 
SU's. I wish they would
 let me run them on my Cortina Kent powered Hawke Formula Ford instead of 
the
 Weber 32/36 DGV.
 Cheers,
 Wayne
 64 TR4
 75 TR6

 --------------------------------------------------
 From: "spook01" <spook01 at comcast.net>
 Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 11:33 AM
 To: "Anthony Rhodes" <spamiam at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
 <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
 Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

> if i were you guys, i would give joe curto a ring since he has worked on 
> the carbs longer than most have been screwing them up!
> let him select a spring and needle from his lists and send it out to you.
> Best,
> Ray

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 11:58:07 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 18:58:07 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0>

Visibly seeing the positions of the Pistons alone under the Hood won't help 
You figure out Air/Fuel mixtures that are taking place
at those given times.(Plus the Manual lift Buttons don't move unless pushed, 
they're Spring loaded.They sell Air/Fuel mixture gauges
that are cheap enough and are set up with an Oxygen Sensor that You have to 
place in a good position.
http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/airfuel.html


Then this info combined with Piston position would give You an exact reading 
of what the Needle and Jet are delivering.
at the various positions. Look at the Gauge this guy made here: 
http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/tech/picsb/pics.htm
If you could get a throttle position sensor or something like a rheostat 
hooked up to a rig like this it would be very informative.
Problem is It would be hard to fit under the Hood. Probably easier than a 
Child in the Engine compartment, which I wouldn't recommend.
Probably all overkill but the A/F Meter alone can be a big help.
Wayne

--------------------------------------------------
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 12:44 PM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

> Two quick items:
>
> Tony wrote:
>> Unless you get a child to ride alongside the engine as you
>> race down the road, I suppose the only way to do this is
>> on a dyno.
>
> I've considered whether I could mount a light and USB webcam under the 
> hood and record them via laptop.  A recording of just the manual 
> lift-the-piston button might not capture enough displacement though. 
> Might have to do it with air cleaners removed.  Not sure how much I like 
> that idea though it might be okay for a short while.
>
> Spook01 wrote:
>> if i were you guys, i would give joe curto a ring
>
> Exactly what I did.  Wished I'd known more before I called.  And Joe C. 
> has what might be called a somewhat curt-o manner which discourages free 
> Socratic-style question and answer dialogue.
>
> Personal trigger factor here, not meant to disparage Joe C. at all:  I am 
> delighted when I find an expert on a subject and I will gladly overpay for 
> that expertise.  However I expect one benefit of that expertise to be 
> helping me avoid the sort of mistakes, extra expenses, and long delays 
> which I would experienced if I'd just done the job myself.
> --
> Jim Muller

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  2 12:11:23 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 11:11:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <16B08B5392F94049A0DE030DEAF95AD7@jdnet.deere.com>

>  A recording of 
> just the manual lift-the-piston button might not capture 
> enough displacement though.

Especially since it doesn't move during normal operation?

Something I've considered doing but haven't tried, is to modify a pair of
damper pistons to add an optical encoder (from cheap digital calipers
perhaps) that reads piston position.  That might also work with the web cam
approach, just a simple wire protruding through a hole in the plug to
indicate piston position.

-- Randall  

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 12:13:11 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 19:13:11 -0000
Subject: [TR] Fw:  zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <E1DB24D109F844CDA7921946C24BC8C7@artvac412870f0>

This is a direct link to a gadget made for determining Piston Lift.

http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/tech/picsc/pics.htm

This in conjunction with the Air/Fuel -----Rich/Lean Gauge would
be a good tool even with the Car still in the Driveway at different RPM'S
as far as figuring the effects of Needle profiles relative to each other.
It should find Rich and Lean spots in the Rev range that would simulate
similar conditions as the going down the road not under a load.
Again, this shouldn't be this complicated but a perfectionists tool.
Wayne

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 1:57 PM
To: <jimmuller at rcn.com>; "Triumph List" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

>
> Visibly seeing the positions of the Pistons alone under the Hood won't 
> help You figure out Air/Fuel mixtures that are taking place
> at those given times.(Plus the Manual lift Buttons don't move unless 
> pushed, they're Spring loaded.They sell Air/Fuel mixture gauges
> that are cheap enough and are set up with an Oxygen Sensor that You have 
> to place in a good position.
> http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/airfuel.html
>
>
> Then this info combined with Piston position would give You an exact 
> reading of what the Needle and Jet are delivering.
> at the various positions. Look at the Gauge this guy made here: 
> http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/tech/picsb/pics.htm
> If you could get a throttle position sensor or something like a rheostat 
> hooked up to a rig like this it would be very informative.
> Problem is It would be hard to fit under the Hood. Probably easier than a 
> Child in the Engine compartment, which I wouldn't recommend.
> Probably all overkill but the A/F Meter alone can be a big help.
> Wayne
>
> --------------------------------------------------

From spamiam at comcast.net  Wed Dec  2 12:26:37 2009
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 14:26:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
References: <3560184BDA994CF3B2C71893960A8E9C@I7QUAD>
	<FC2B7C1252954F13887D03568911BA43@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <4CF0D206D6034CD4AE62536268AA1E0A@I7QUAD>

Wayne,

I totally agree.  With few spring selections, probably there is only one
spring that makes sense.  But how do you know that the springs in those old
SU's are 1) the original type, and b) still have their original "springiness"?
You would have to measure their spring rate.  Not a difficult proposition.

The case I had in mind when I was saying that maybe someone would need to
change springs is in the 3-carb conversion.  I think it is quite likely (and
probably necessary) if you are going to have any real increase in breathing,
that you would need springs with about 2/3'rds the spring rate.  You would
need a greater spring rate than that if you develop more HP in a modified
engine.  I.E.  I'd guess that if you had a 50% increase in HP, then that would
bring you back to the original springs.

As I said before, there are enough variables that it is a little difficult to
predict, and you might need to verify the actual amount of lift at full engine
breathing.  I presume that people can predict the flow based on displacement,
compression ratio, HP and RPM.  Then a flow bench could verify the actual
lift.  A dyno might be easier to find.

-Tony
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Wayne Lee
  To: Anthony Rhodes ; Triumph List
  Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


  Hi Tony,
    The Spring Rate first is a no brainer of course since the HS6's would come
with a Spring in the Ballpark
  for the application We were discussing..
    The reason You don't spend much time on altering the Spring rate is
because they make only about 2-3
  possible Spring rates at the most for any general Application, and about 25
Needle profiles that could work.
    I've never had the stock Red or a Yellow Spring not get me into an area
where a sweet Spot couldn't be
  found by going a step or 2 in either direction with a Needle profile. How
about You?

  Tony Wrote:
  "Of course you will have to select different needles for the different
spring rates"

  Not when there are only a couple possible choices of Springs that make sense
out of the 4 Available, and 100 Needles to choose
  from.
  Wayne
  wayne at sucarb.com



  From: Anthony Rhodes
  Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 9:37 AM
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; wayne at motorcarriage.com
  Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


  >You don't want to compensate for bad Needles with Springs. The Needle
  >Profile or what Jim called "calibrated" is the
  >most important part. Sort the Car out on the road using the Volvo Needle
  >then see where you are rich. At idle or popping on the Highway.
  >Then take it from there. The Springs should be your last concern.
  >Wayne

  Wayne,

  I'd say that you need to figure out your spring first, since it (as you say)
determines which part of the needle profile is operational at any given power
level (and controls the amount of "constant depression").

  The way to determine this? Not simple.  You can guesstimate it from the
spring used on other cars with similar HP and carb choke size.  You can
directly determine it by looking for just reaching full piston lift at maximum
flow rate.  Unless you get a child to ride alongside the engine as you race
down the road, I suppose the only way to do this is on a dyno.

  Excessively strong springs will work, but will cause greater restriction on
air flow than necessary.  I.E.  you have smaller choke carbs!  Excessively
weak springs will also work OK, until you get to maximum lift.  At that point
you lose the ability to control the misture with the needle, and the mixture
is determined as if the carb were a fixed choke type.  Mixture will be
dependent on airflow to some degree.

  Of course you will have to select different needles for the different spring
rates.

  -Tony


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-



  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
  Version: 9.0.709 / Virus Database: 270.14.90/2540 - Release Date: 12/02/09
02:33:00

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  2 12:56:40 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 11:56:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>

> They sell Air/Fuel mixture gauges that are cheap enough 

Unfortunately, the cheap ones don't tell you what you want to know.  They
are only accurate right at Lambda = 1.0; which is neither best power nor
best fuel economy.  "Wide band" sensors are available, but are substantially
more expensive.

> If you could get a throttle position sensor or something like 
> a rheostat hooked up to a rig like this it would be very informative.

But, throttle position doesn't directly translate to piston position.  You
can infer piston position from throttle position & engine rpm (with maybe
some correction for altitude/air density), but it varies with your
particular setup and how are you going to calibrate it?

These are exactly the same problems one faces when setting up a fuel
injection system.  You need to know the actual airflow into the engine to
know how much fuel it needs.

-- Randall  

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec  2 13:01:36 2009
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 12:01:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Tr- gauge repair
Message-ID: <426222.31605.qm@web80805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Another place to try is Bob's Speedometers/Bob's Gauges.

www.bobsspeedometers.com

www.bobsgauges.com

Doug
--
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 13:37:27 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 20:37:27 -0000
Subject: [TR] Fw:  zenith or su's ?
Message-ID: <DFB6FA22021C44D98DC5D2D20684DD65@artvac412870f0>

Again, I didn't clean up the bottom, didn't go through at 2:38


From: Wayne Lee
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 2:38 PM
To: Anthony Rhodes ; Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


Hi Tony,
   You gauge the Spring Type by Wire Gauge or diameter in .000" and how fine
they are coiled.
I have a book specifying the differences but they are visibly noticeable.

  I have a Flow Bench and it's of no use for figuring Carb Air Flow(at least
no more than a Shop Vac would be) as the Heads are
 always worked on with none of the reciprocating Valve Train to simulate
actual running.

 Dividing a Cylinder Heads Flow from 2 Carbs to 3 Carbs of the same diameter=
less flow per Carb.
A simple Synchrometer test will verify this.
Cheers,
Wayne




From: Anthony Rhodes
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 2:26 PM
To: Wayne Lee ; Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


Wayne,

I totally agree.  With few spring selections, probably there is only one
spring that makes sense.  But how do you know that the springs in those old
SU's are 1) the original type, and b) still have their original "springiness"?
You would have to measure their spring rate.  Not a difficult proposition.

The case I had in mind when I was saying that maybe someone would need to
change springs is in the 3-carb conversion.  I think it is quite likely (and
probably necessary) if you are going to have any real increase in breathing,
that you would need springs with about 2/3'rds the spring rate.  You would
need a greater spring rate than that if you develop more HP in a modified
engine.  I.E.  I'd guess that if you had a 50% increase in HP, then that would
bring you back to the original springs.

As I said before, there are enough variables that it is a little difficult to
predict, and you might need to verify the actual amount of lift at full engine
breathing.  I presume that people can predict the flow based on displacement,
compression ratio, HP and RPM.  Then a flow bench could verify the actual
lift.  A dyno might be easier to find.

-Tony

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 13:49:17 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 20:49:17 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net><9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0>
	<4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <29010B42EF3D474A809C0DDF8A65C4F3@artvac412870f0>

Randall,
     I meant a Throttle Position Sensor or Rheostat onto the Piston Lift 
detector device I sent the link to.
It explains how he already had it set up:

 "The Idea was to use a stack of optical slot sensors with a vane that sits 
on the piston to drive LED's to display the position of the HIF piston at 
any point of drive. The parts cost under $30 and it worked."

As far as the A/F Meter accuracy It doesn't matter if its not like this: 
"The stoichiometric ratio is 14.7:1 when expressed as an air/fuel ratio, or 
1 when expressed as a lambda value.  A richer mixture will have a lower 
air/fuel ratio and lower lambda value. e.g. an air/fuel ratio of 12.5:1 
equals a lambda value of 0.85, and is a typical value for a naturally 
aspirated engine under full load."

All that matters is that it's somewhat static across the Rev Range and take 
Plug Readings to get a Jet adjustment. All this would do is take the Needle 
Profile out of the Tuning equation.

Wayne

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 2:56 PM
To: "'Triumph List'" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

>> They sell Air/Fuel mixture gauges that are cheap enough
>
> Unfortunately, the cheap ones don't tell you what you want to know.  They
> are only accurate right at Lambda = 1.0; which is neither best power nor
> best fuel economy.  "Wide band" sensors are available, but are 
> substantially
> more expensive.
>
>> If you could get a throttle position sensor or something like
>> a rheostat hooked up to a rig like this it would be very informative.
>
> But, throttle position doesn't directly translate to piston position.  You
> can infer piston position from throttle position & engine rpm (with maybe
> some correction for altitude/air density), but it varies with your
> particular setup and how are you going to calibrate it?
>
> These are exactly the same problems one faces when setting up a fuel
> injection system.  You need to know the actual airflow into the engine to
> know how much fuel it needs.
>
> -- Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Dec  2 13:49:32 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 20:49:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0>
	<4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280DDDB5@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Quite a few of us have installed the low end wideband o2 sensors like the
Innovate LC-1 which sells for around $200 (sensor, cable, gauge). This kit
also has outputs to plug into a laptop for data logging although to be really
useful you would need further instrumentation to make the a/f data meaningful.
Just being able to see what the carbs are doing under different throttle
settings (idle, acceleration, WOT etc) is very helpful.

This whole discussion makes my 3xdcoe 40's look pretty straightforward
although I have been humming that old Searchers number "Needles and Springs"
for several days now..

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 2:57 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

> They sell Air/Fuel mixture gauges that are cheap enough

Unfortunately, the cheap ones don't tell you what you want to know.  They
are only accurate right at Lambda = 1.0; which is neither best power nor
best fuel economy.  "Wide band" sensors are available, but are substantially
more expensive.

> If you could get a throttle position sensor or something like
> a rheostat hooked up to a rig like this it would be very informative.

But, throttle position doesn't directly translate to piston position.  You
can infer piston position from throttle position & engine rpm (with maybe
some correction for altitude/air density), but it varies with your
particular setup and how are you going to calibrate it?

These are exactly the same problems one faces when setting up a fuel
injection system.  You need to know the actual airflow into the engine to
know how much fuel it needs.

-- Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Dec  2 14:04:56 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed,  2 Dec 2009 16:04:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Measuring piston position
Message-ID: <20091202160456.AAQ98972@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Randall wrote:
> But, throttle position doesn't directly translate to piston position.

Interesting subject, of course.  I hadn't considered whether the lift button was attached to the piston or separate.  In any case, my curiosity was prompted by the spring question.

I would think you'd want the piston to operate through its own full range through most throttle and airflow range.  If I drove a route I know and recorded the audio as part of a wmv file I should be able to correlate the piston movement reasonably well to the throttle position under different load conditions, or at least see where on the needle it spent much of its time.

Whether it is running lean or rich or in debt or purple is a whole 'nother question.  If I felt, for whatever reason, that it was too lean at some time in that drive, I might be able to judge where on the needle it was running and thus consider a needle thinner at that point.

Of course, it would still be guesswork and lots of data would be just plain missing.  Mostly it would be interesting to know the actual piston (and needle) behavior under real conditions.
--
Jim Muller, too busy to do such an experiment now

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 14:17:21 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 21:17:21 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net><9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0>
	<4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <FA7AE0E7FBB94AA6AADFCC2FCAB151A8@artvac412870f0>

Here's a Wide Band Setup Complete with a Gauge that wouldn't look out of 
place in a Vintage Car
for less than one might pay for a single Weber DCOE Sidedraft Carb.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16277&cat=262&page=1

I understand the Throttle Disc position doesn't determine potential Airflow 
on CV Carbs hence me
sending the links to pictures of the Piston Lift Detection Gadgets.
Again here's the link to the Piston Position Indicator I was talking about 
getting a reading on by TPS
or Analog Rheostat. The Electronic means he described seems best.
http://www.terryhunt.co.uk/mini/pics/tech/picsc/pics.htm
Wayne

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 2:56 PM
To: "'Triumph List'" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?

>> They sell Air/Fuel mixture gauges that are cheap enough
>
> Unfortunately, the cheap ones don't tell you what you want to know.  They
> are only accurate right at Lambda = 1.0; which is neither best power nor
> best fuel economy.  "Wide band" sensors are available, but are 
> substantially
> more expensive.
>
>> If you could get a throttle position sensor or something like
>> a rheostat hooked up to a rig like this it would be very informative.
>
> But, throttle position doesn't directly translate to piston position.  You
> can infer piston position from throttle position & engine rpm (with maybe
> some correction for altitude/air density), but it varies with your
> particular setup and how are you going to calibrate it?
>
> These are exactly the same problems one faces when setting up a fuel
> injection system.  You need to know the actual airflow into the engine to
> know how much fuel it needs.
>
> -- Randall

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 15:28:01 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 22:28:01 -0000
Subject: [TR] Measuring piston position
In-Reply-To: <20091202160456.AAQ98972@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091202160456.AAQ98972@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <3B33379641DB41E88865E72FCC98DFFC@artvac412870f0>

Jim, Did You get the Memo? It's been done without an IPod.
You'd never be able to use an audible to correlate the Piston Lift position 
to Throttle position.
by sound. The links I sent are very simple to get an idea of what's 
happening with the Piston travel.
Comparing it to Throttle position doesn't matter. You could change the 
Exhaust Note by depressing Accelerator an Inch and have the Piston
barely rise if the Rev's didn't climb much. You might be able to record a 
sweet sounding MP3 of your trip to work, but it would serve no value
to SU Carb Tuning.
With all due respect I think it's evident You're in a little over your head 
as for your method of Data Acquisition :>)
Cheers,
Wayne


--------------------------------------------------
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 4:04 PM
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Measuring piston position

> Randall wrote:
>> But, throttle position doesn't directly translate to piston position.
>
> Interesting subject, of course.  I hadn't considered whether the lift 
> button was attached to the piston or separate.  In any case, my curiosity 
> was prompted by the spring question.
>
> I would think you'd want the piston to operate through its own full range 
> through most throttle and airflow range.  If I drove a route I know and 
> recorded the audio as part of a wmv file I should be able to correlate the 
> piston movement reasonably well to the throttle position under different 
> load conditions, or at least see where on the needle it spent much of its 
> time.
>
> Whether it is running lean or rich or in debt or purple is a whole 'nother 
> question.  If I felt, for whatever reason, that it was too lean at some 
> time in that drive, I might be able to judge where on the needle it was 
> running and thus consider a needle thinner at that point.
>
> Of course, it would still be guesswork and lots of data would be just 
> plain missing.  Mostly it would be interesting to know the actual piston 
> (and needle) behavior under real conditions.
> --
> Jim Muller, too busy to do such an experiment now

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 15:43:13 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 22:43:13 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <bce.56ec540d.38483f70@aol.com>
References: <bce.56ec540d.38483f70@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8A5F3CE488A14605959BE09C6A105F3D@artvac412870f0>

Hi Barry,
   I don't know if You're addressing me in your question. But I run the BAE
Needles used as a fixed Needle.
I run them in my HS6's with K&N's non EGR Manifold and ANSA Exhaust with just
the Pertronix and Lucas Sport Coils.
Still have the Low C/R Head on it and I didn't even shave it while I had it
off. It loves 87 Octane with 10 degrees Advance with
Vacuum Retard plugged.

  I myself don't understand the emphasis people are putting on the Springs
when You consider the Weight of the Piston itself
another  3.5 oz's in Spring rate isn't exactly choking it off. Imagine the
bumps we go over and the inertia doesn't slam these pistons shut.

Between the Red and yellow I haven't noticed any difference, I get 24 mpg on
87 on the back roads to work with my non-overdrive 75 TR6.

Wayne


From: Btp44 at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 5:08 PM
To: wayne at motorcarriage.com
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


I have been following this thread with much interest (and amusement). I have a
TR6, early PI cam, 9.5 cr, dual exh, and K&N air filters. Moss UK reccomends
BAE needles with 8oz springs. I am using BAG needles,which are slightly leaner
than BAE from #3-#6, but are richer from #6 to the end. The leds and the af
meter (narrow band) all go out at  about 2200 rpm in 4th and the plugs are
quite light in color. Performance seems ok with no lean miss. I haven't
detected any difference  between the red or yellow springs on the af meter.
Anyway, what needle are you using?
I also was curious about piston lift under load and used graduated rods in the
dash pots with a cable operated digital camera to snap some photos at various
speeds. The things we do for entertainment in retirement.
Berry Price

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Dec  2 15:50:11 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 15:50:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] List notes
In-Reply-To: <6C233BB5A9F14696832EF0E6FDEE0BCB@artvac412870f0>
References: <6C233BB5A9F14696832EF0E6FDEE0BCB@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <4B16EF23.4040302@bradakis.com>

In one of the currently active topics, one of those involved wrote:
> I don't know why this didn't go thru the first time at noon. Cleaned 
> up some
> space on the bottom.

There are a number of reasons mail that folks intend to be sent to the 
list don't
make it.  You'd be surprised at the number of folks who can't figure out 
that
to send mail to triumphs at autox.team.net you simply send mail to
triumphs at autox.team.net.  On occasion you see messages that look like
replies to some message, a subject line like:

Subject: Re: topic1

In the body of the message, though, absolutely no reference to topic1,
but a new discussion on topic2.  What these folks leave out should be
an opening sentence like "I can't figure out how to send a new  email
to the list, so I used reply and am too lazy to edit the subject line."

But for the most part messages sent from a valid subscription address
to the proper posting address and get held back are simply too long.
Gee, I just ranted on about editing replies on another list, a few of
you might remember.

Basically the default behavior of many mail programs these days is
to include the *entire* original message as part of the text of a reply.
And people don't bother to edit out the unnecessary text.  And someone
replies to that reply, and the message gets longer and longer as the
previous posts needlessly  cascade on and on.

Now on the one hand, I like to see the line

    Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

repeated multiple times in messages, though most folks ignore
that anyway.  But there's also a lot of other stuff that gets repeated
that doesn't need to be included.  It simply wastes bandwidth [*],
fills up peoples' mailboxes sooner so they removed from the list
for no fault of their own, it makes the archiver work harder both
in indexing the repetitive text to begin with as well as returning
many copies in queries, when one would be sufficient.  Think of
it as a computer equivalent of a child repeating "are we there yet?"
over and over and over and over again.

I won't point out some of the most blatant recent examples, now,
will consider this message as hopefully enlightening a few of you.
I'll go back to my prestigious, highly-paid occupation as Team.Net's
chief byte duster and toilet scrubber.

mjb.


  *:  bandwidth - for those who don't understand this, think of it
as being like filling a swimming pool.  Which will fill it faster,
a fire hose or a garden hose?  The "pipe" that the Team.Net bits
travel through is close to the garden hose capacity.  People who
don't edit replies are kinking the hose, slowing things down for
everyone.

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Dec  2 15:51:59 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 15:51:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280DDDB5@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0>
	<4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280DDDB5@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <4B16EF8F.7040303@bradakis.com>

Dump the Zeniths and the SUs.

Anyone want to buy a Weber 40 DCOE, brand new?  $325,
no manifold or linkage, just the carb.

mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  2 16:08:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 15:08:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <29010B42EF3D474A809C0DDF8A65C4F3@artvac412870f0>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net><9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0><4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<29010B42EF3D474A809C0DDF8A65C4F3@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <1E82EFE882E6437B800F5272EDA97FCE@jdnet.deere.com>

>      I meant a Throttle Position Sensor or Rheostat onto the 
> Piston Lift detector device I sent the link to.

Ah, I see.  My apologies for the misunderstanding.  To my warped way of
thinking, it's not a throttle position sensor unless it actually senses
throttle position, otherwise it's just an optical encoder for whatever it's
connected to.

And I probably still don't understand your comments about A/F meter
accuracy.  Best power is somewhere around .85 while best fuel economy is
somewhere around 1.1-1.2.  Since my definition of "best performance"
includes both of those points, I see no utility in a gauge that won't read
either one accurately.  But it's certainly true that a proper wide-band
sensor costs less than a new carb.

BTW, stoichiometric (Lambda = 1.0) is no longer necessarily 14.7:1.  Pretty
much all of the US is now running 'oxygenated' fuel, which requires more
fuel to reach stoich.  E10 for example takes around 14.0:1.  And while we
are exploring this road, it might be entertaining to design a setup that
would burn E85 successfully, which reaches stoich somewhere around 9.7:1.

> All that matters is that it's somewhat static across the Rev 
> Range

My goals are more lofty; I want best power at any rpm when I step on the
loud pedal, combined with minimum fuel consumption (best economy) while
cruising.  And for me, 'cruising' includes anything from drifting along at
2300 rpm (~ 55 mph) to holding a constant 4200 or so (~100 mph).

-- Randall  

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Dec  2 16:14:37 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2009 16:14:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Measuring piston position
In-Reply-To: <3B33379641DB41E88865E72FCC98DFFC@artvac412870f0>
References: <20091202160456.AAQ98972@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<3B33379641DB41E88865E72FCC98DFFC@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <4B16F4DD.3000409@bradakis.com>

Wayne, why does your computer think it is January 1st, 2010?

Does the clock need a new spring ;-)


mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  2 16:14:34 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 15:14:34 -0800
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280DDDB5@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net><9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0><4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280DDDB5@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <8F7F0010E1964E94B06BAE279200AFE9@jdnet.deere.com>

> although I have been humming that old 
> Searchers number "Needles and Springs"
> for several days now..

I love it!  Wonder if we can get the Spinal Tappets to record that?

But shouldn't it be "Needles and springza" ?
<G>

-- Randall  

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Dec  2 17:45:17 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 00:45:17 -0000
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <1E82EFE882E6437B800F5272EDA97FCE@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net><9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0><4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com><29010B42EF3D474A809C0DDF8A65C4F3@artvac412870f0>
	<1E82EFE882E6437B800F5272EDA97FCE@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <867C6AA60A884A6CA1ED0DE782DD68F3@artvac412870f0>

Randall,
   As for your interpretation of optimal Fuel Mixture:

  Mine was in "     " marks meaning I copied and pasted it from a page or 
someone elses quote.
Here's the Webpage I copied and pasted from:
http://www.hondata.com/techlambda.html

  I'm sure you gathered your information from another source. Usually TR3 
Owners don't have to crunch such numbers.
I hope your time was well spent, You may very well be right or have stumbled 
across better information.

I understand your confusion over the A/F accuracy as the wide band example 
didn't go through. That and having read several of your
previous posts after lengthy nose in the Thesaurus sessions
Here's the Wide Band Unit Link done cheap for most.
 http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16277&cat=262&page=1As for the Throttle positioning sensor being used in an alternativeapplication, Don't let anyone catch You using Pliers on a Thumbscrew.But: This News Just In!Wikipedia Throttle Definition:A throttle is the mechanism by which the flow of a fluid is managed byconstriction or obstruction. An engine's power can be increased or decreasedby the restriction of inlet gases (i.e., by the use of a throttle), butusually decreased. The term throttle has come to refer, informally andincorrectly, to any mechanism by which the power or speed of an engine isregulated.So since the most restriction in Airflow by constriction or obstruction isthe Piston in an SU under Full Throttle,So It is technically the Throttle. Ididn't say Butterfly or Disc position Sensor.As for You and 100+ mph. Sorry I don't know You well but can only havevisuals that would advise You to double up on whatever size Depends Youmight use:^
 )Like You say, Your Goals may be more" Lofty" But Your Mileage may Vary, Ibet.Cheers,Wayne64 TR475 TR6Hawke DL12 Formula FordLola T598 Sportsracer (goes +100)--------------------------------------------------From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 6:08 PMTo: "'Triumph List'" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?>>      I meant a Throttle Position Sensor or Rheostat onto the>> Piston Lift detector device I sent the link to.>> Ah, I see.  My apologies for the misunderstanding.  To my warped way of> thinking, it's not a throttle position sensor unless it actually senses> throttle position, otherwise it's just an optical encoder for whateverit's> connected to.>> And I probably still don't understand your comments about A/F meter> accuracy.  Best power is somewhere around .85 while best fuel economy is> somewhere around 1.1-1.2.  Since my definition of "best performance"> includes both of those points, I see no utility in a ga
 uge that won't read> either one accurately.  But it's certainly true that a proper wide-band> sensor costs less than a new carb.>> BTW, stoichiometric (Lambda = 1.0) is no longer necessarily 14.7:1.Pretty> much all of the US is now running 'oxygenated' fuel, which requires more> fuel to reach stoich.  E10 for example takes around 14.0:1.  And while we> are exploring this road, it might be entertaining to design a setup that> would burn E85 successfully, which reaches stoich somewhere around 9.7:1.>>> All that matters is that it's somewhat static across the Rev>> Range>> My goals are more lofty; I want best power at any rpm when I step on the> loud pedal, combined with minimum fuel consumption (best economy) while> cruising.  And for me, 'cruising' includes anything from drifting along at> 2300 rpm (~ 55 mph) to holding a constant 4200 or so (~100 mph).>> -- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  2 18:32:53 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 17:32:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <867C6AA60A884A6CA1ED0DE782DD68F3@artvac412870f0>
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net><9AFA8C7200324ECA8230FBF7F19A7418@artvac412870f0><4A0D29A10E6A436F84D9CF682652A73C@jdnet.deere.com><29010B42EF3D474A809C0DDF8A65C4F3@artvac412870f0>
	<1E82EFE882E6437B800F5272EDA97FCE@jdnet.deere.com>
	<867C6AA60A884A6CA1ED0DE782DD68F3@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <E279DA6C52AD4068BCC039524CD994A5@jdnet.deere.com>

Wayne,

The trick to having your posts go through is to trim away the message you
are replying to.  The list server deliberately blocks messages that are not
trimmed, to cut down on storage requirements.

You wrote:
>    As for your interpretation of optimal Fuel Mixture:
>   Mine was in "     " marks meaning I copied and pasted it 

Yes, and the source you copied has it wrong.  Like everything on the
Internet (including this message), it's worth what you pay for it (if you
are lucky).  Since you like Wiki, check out the article at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85_in_standard_engines
There is a chart near the bottom showing the relationship between AFR &
Lambda for several types of fuel, plus some comments about "optimum"
mixture.

> Usually TR3 Owners don't have to crunch such numbers.

True, most are content to restore their cars to original and drive/show
them.  I enjoy the driving too (not showing), but I often think about things
like supercharging, electronic fuel injection, etc. as ways of increasing my
enjoyment of the car.  And since I also enjoy tinkering, any such project
would be mostly "roll my own".    So, I've collected a lot of information
over the years on things like optimum fuel/air ratio and what it really
means.

> This News Just 
> In!Wikipedia Throttle Definition:

Note where it says "the mechanism by which the flow of a fluid is managed".
I don't think any reasonable person would claim that the function of the air
piston is to manage air flow, even though it does present some restriction.
Otherwise, air filters would also be called "throttles".

Fortunately, Depends are a long way in my future, tho getting closer every
year.  I've only had my current TR3 up to 90 mph or so; it still needs a lot
of work to be stable & fun at over 100.  But we have lots of nice straight
(and flat) roads around here without much traffic in the wee hours of the
morning, so I do plan to get it to that condition.  The 89mm liners & 4-2-1
exhaust are on the shelf, waiting for my Larry Young cam to come in ... In
the meantime, I need to finish rebuilding and upgrading the suspension (in
between driving to/from work, of course).

Probably I'll just use the HS6 carbs for now, even though there is a pair of
DCOEs hanging on the wall (and a Judson in the shed).  Maybe after the Stags
are back on the road (and one of them sold) I'll get more creative with the
TR.

PS, fastest I ever got clocked by the CHP in the previous TR3A was 90 mph,
but it was in rush hour traffic so I wasn't "cruising".  Fortunately, after
he calmed down (almost wrecked his cruiser trying to follow me off the
Interstate), he only wrote me up for 70, so you'll just have to take my word
for the late night runs through the desert <G>

-- Randall  

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Dec  2 20:12:54 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 21:12:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
References: <20091202124411.AAQ33579@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <ED82C604C1C84A548C41858B906C4583@yourpd3mh0abgs>

ah, joe's a teddy bear!  you just have to get used to the new york stuff!
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?


> Two quick items:
>
> Tony wrote:
>> Unless you get a child to ride alongside the engine as you
>> race down the road, I suppose the only way to do this is
>> on a dyno.
>
> I've considered whether I could mount a light and USB webcam under the 
> hood and record them via laptop.  A recording of just the manual 
> lift-the-piston button might not capture enough displacement though. 
> Might have to do it with air cleaners removed.  Not sure how much I like 
> that idea though it might be okay for a short while.
>
> Spook01 wrote:
>> if i were you guys, i would give joe curto a ring
>
> Exactly what I did.  Wished I'd known more before I called.  And Joe C. 
> has what might be called a somewhat curt-o manner which discourages free 
> Socratic-style question and answer dialogue.
>
> Personal trigger factor here, not meant to disparage Joe C. at all:  I am 
> delighted when I find an expert on a subject and I will gladly overpay for 
> that expertise.  However I expect one benefit of that expertise to be 
> helping me avoid the sort of mistakes, extra expenses, and long delays 
> which I would experienced if I'd just done the job myself.
> --
> Jim Muller
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec  2 21:58:26 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2009 21:58:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Measuring piston position
In-Reply-To: <20091202160456.AAQ98972@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091202160456.AAQ98972@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <340A98A8A60048FFB97477AC91432112@bboffice>

I think the suggestion of removing the air cleaners, mounting a couple of
web cams with the data married up to the tach and vacume measurements would
be best way to resolve this thread.  


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"




 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2009 2:05 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Measuring piston position

Randall wrote:
> But, throttle position doesn't directly translate to piston position.

Interesting subject, of course.  I hadn't considered whether the lift button
was attached to the piston or separate.  In any case, my curiosity was
prompted by the spring question.

I would think you'd want the piston to operate through its own full range
through most throttle and airflow range.  If I drove a route I know and
recorded the audio as part of a wmv file I should be able to correlate the
piston movement reasonably well to the throttle position under different
load conditions, or at least see where on the needle it spent much of its
time.

Whether it is running lean or rich or in debt or purple is a whole 'nother
question.  If I felt, for whatever reason, that it was too lean at some time
in that drive, I might be able to judge where on the needle it was running
and thus consider a needle thinner at that point.

Of course, it would still be guesswork and lots of data would be just plain
missing.  Mostly it would be interesting to know the actual piston (and
needle) behavior under real conditions.
--
Jim Muller, too busy to do such an experiment now
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Dec  2 23:02:07 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 01:02:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <8F7F0010E1964E94B06BAE279200AFE9@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280DDDB5@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <4B170E0F.19473.3558DBC3@localhost>

On 2 Dec 2009 at 15:14, Randall wrote:

> > although I have been humming that old 
> > Searchers number "Needles and Springs"
> > for several days now..
> 
> I love it!  Wonder if we can get the Spinal Tappets to record that?
> 
> But shouldn't it be "Needles and springza" ?

And wasn't that the Dave Clark Five (a.k.a. DC Five)?  About 1965?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Dec  2 23:02:07 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 01:02:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Measuring piston position
In-Reply-To: <3B33379641DB41E88865E72FCC98DFFC@artvac412870f0>
References: <20091202160456.AAQ98972@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <4B170E0F.6239.3558DC20@localhost>

On 1 Jan 2010 at 17:27, Wayne Lee wrote:

> With all due respect I think it's evident You're in a little over your head 
> as for your method of Data Acquisition :>)

With all due respect I think you missed the point of my posts and my 
curiosity.  And you have no idea of my technical skill or background.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Dec  3 06:29:24 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 08:29:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] zenith or su's ?
In-Reply-To: <4B170E0F.19473.3558DBC3@localhost>
References: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280DDDB5@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<4B170E0F.19473.3558DBC3@localhost>
Message-ID: <8CC4233C34D6DB5-2CE8-2537@webmail-m071.sysops.aol.com>

 Are you thinking of "Bits and Pieces?"

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: 'Triumph List' <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Dec 3, 2009 12:02 am
Subject: Re: [TR] zenith or su's ?> But shouldn't it be "Needles and springza"
?

<snip>


And wasn't that the Dave Clark Five (a.k.a. DC Five)?  About 1965?

From lee at automate-it.com  Thu Dec  3 09:35:25 2009
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 10:35:25 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] (Carb) Needles and (lifting) Pins?
In-Reply-To: <6C233BB5A9F14696832EF0E6FDEE0BCB@artvac412870f0>
References: <6C233BB5A9F14696832EF0E6FDEE0BCB@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <3173.192.246.38.159.1259858125.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Tired of all the noise about SU/Zenith needles and springs and air?
Relax and listen to the original Needles and Pins by The Searchers
("needles and pins-ah") as was alluded to earlier...

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2RqRxjjlsI

This was redone several times (Jackie DeShannon, Smokie, even The Ramones) but
this old one is the real deal.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Dec  3 10:18:10 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Thu,  3 Dec 2009 12:18:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] Searching for The Searchers
Message-ID: <20091203121810.AAU28133@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Randall wrote:
> Several artists covered it, including Cher, but I don't
> recall the Dave Clark 5 doing it.

> Here's The Searchers' version.

I can't check the mp3 here at work so it will have to wait.  But Wikipedia's history of The Searchers calls it their hit and the timline suggests 1965.  So as usual you are in the right of it!

Of course, that was only 45 years ago.  And it has been said that if you remember the 60's you weren't there.  Geez, I remember the song plain as day but apparently I don't remember the band name at all.
--
Jim Muller, wondering what else I've misforgotten

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Dec  3 13:01:00 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 20:01:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] (Carb) Needles and (lifting) Pins?
In-Reply-To: <3173.192.246.38.159.1259858125.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <1523959006.9652921259870460966.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:

> From: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, December 3, 2009 10:35:25 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] (Carb) Needles and (lifting) Pins?
>
> Tired of all the noise about SU/Zenith needles and springs and air?
> Relax and listen to the original Needles and Pins by The Searchers
> ("needles and pins-ah") as was alluded to earlier...
> 
>   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2RqRxjjlsI
> 
> This was redone several times (Jackie DeShannon, Smokie, even The
> Ramones) but
> this old one is the real deal.

The most popular version indeed, but I think this British track is a cover of an earlier American record, not the original.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Dec  3 14:46:55 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 2009 16:46:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] (Carb) Needles and (lifting) Pins?
In-Reply-To: <3173.192.246.38.159.1259858125.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <6C233BB5A9F14696832EF0E6FDEE0BCB@artvac412870f0>
	<3173.192.246.38.159.1259858125.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <8CC427943E7FCE9-1034-1F93@webmail-m060.sysops.aol.com>

 Technically, Jackie was first with this song, co-written by Jack Nitzsche and
Sonny Bono!



--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph
Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald
Database: http://triumph-herald.us




-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Daniels <lee at automate-it.com>

This was redone several times (Jackie DeShannon, Smokie, even The Ramones)
but
this old one is the real deal.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Dec  3 16:37:02 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 16:37:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] (Carb) Needles and (lifting) Pins?
In-Reply-To: <1523959006.9652921259870460966.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <3173.192.246.38.159.1259858125.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
	<1523959006.9652921259870460966.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0912031537t1ba72bd7x74c9990dcb97732d@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/3/09, pethier at comcast.net <pethier at comcast.net> wrote:
> The most popular version indeed, but I think this British track is a cover
> of an earlier American record, not the original.

If Wiki is to be believed you are correct as it states the Jackie
DeShannon version was the first.  Was certainly written by an American
-- Sonny Bono.

With threads like this -- sure can tell it's winter somewhere in the world.

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Thu Dec  3 18:51:27 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 20:51:27 EST
Subject: [TR] TR2 parts needed
Message-ID: <c04.71b73a77.3849c51f@aol.com>

I have been communicating via email to a fellow in the Netherlands who is  
in need of an early TR2 thermostat housing.  That design, for lack of a  
better description is called the two hump design, was only  used up to TS1201 
so are quite rare but thought I would ask.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana 

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Fri Dec  4 02:55:54 2009
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 09:55:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
In-Reply-To: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>
References: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>
Message-ID: <a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>

I looked at the cottage industry site Karl wrote about awhile back 
and saw an interesting looking product.  LiteZupp (url below) has LED 
units that are direct plug-in replacements for the usual 1156 and 
1157 light bulbs.  They claim the units are much brighter and, of 
course, take much less current.  I'm tempted, but the $25 price per 
unit isn't trivial.  Has anyone tried these out?  Apologies if this 
has already come up.

http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Welcome.html

Tim

1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6



>Here's a link I just received, to an interesting site that lists numerous
>small suppliers of unique British car parts, accessories, and services.  Lots
>of Triumph-specific guys in the list, as well as other good stuff.  Some US,
>some British-based.
>
>http://www.britcot.com/Index.html
>
>Karl

From agraham at execulink.com  Fri Dec  4 09:03:20 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 11:03:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 body mounting
Message-ID: <4B1932C8.9010500@execulink.com>

Hello List:
Asking about any experiences about mounting the body to frame. Have used 
a new body mount kit and wondering on how much to tighten the bolts? Is 
there a sequence? Do you "fine tune" the body mounting after 
doors/fenders attached to try to achieve acceptable gaps?
Wondering about any members experiences with this stage of re-assembly.
Thanks in advance.
Angelo Graham

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 09:55:21 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 11:55:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Searching for The Searchers
In-Reply-To: <20091203121810.AAU28133@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091203121810.AAU28133@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770912040855u570e2504uf64ec70cf2b80fee@mail.gmail.com>

My Dave Clark 5 song for the spinal tappets would be Bits and pieces.   I'm
not sure they'd have to change the words....

Cheers!

chris
63 TR4
54 TR2 rusting silently 6ft off the garage floor...

On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 12:18 PM, <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> Randall wrote:
> > Several artists covered it, including Cher, but I don't
> > recall the Dave Clark 5 doing it.
>
> > Here's The Searchers' version.
>
> I can't check the mp3 here at work so it will have to wait.  But
> Wikipedia's history of The Searchers calls it their hit and the timline
> suggests 1965.  So as usual you are in the right of it!
>
> Of course, that was only 45 years ago.  And it has been said that if you
> remember the 60's you weren't there.  Geez, I remember the song plain as day
> but apparently I don't remember the band name at all.
> --
> Jim Muller, wondering what else I've misforgotten
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Fri Dec  4 10:10:49 2009
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 10:10:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
In-Reply-To: <a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>
References: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>
	<a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>
Message-ID: <EAEC598C-4B48-4734-BE4A-31EAF8545F78@cox.net>

I used LEDs in all my front parking turn signal lights & my rear turn signal
lights just because they are very much brighter.  You will need a modern
electronic flasher unit, they do not draw enough current for the traditional
type to work.  Because they are very directional they would not work in my
TR3A rear brake/running light which are pointed down at about 45 degrees.  I
used extra bright traditional bulbs for brake/running light.

I bought my LEDs from   http://www.superbrightleds.com/

I bought my extra bright bulbs from http://www.ronfrancis.com/

I was happy with the service from both companies.

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/



On  4 Dec, 2009, at 2:55 AM, Tim Gaines wrote:

> I looked at the cottage industry site Karl wrote about awhile back and saw
an interesting looking product.  LiteZupp (url below) has LED units that are
direct plug-in replacements for the usual 1156 and 1157 light bulbs.  They
claim the units are much brighter and, of course, take much less current.  I'm
tempted, but the $25 price per unit isn't trivial.  Has anyone tried these
out?  Apologies if this has already come up.
>
> http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Welcome.html
>
> Tim
>
> 1980 Spitfire
> 1974 TR6
>
>
>
>> Here's a link I just received, to an interesting site that lists numerous
>> small suppliers of unique British car parts, accessories, and services.
Lots
>> of Triumph-specific guys in the list, as well as other good stuff.  Some
US,
>> some British-based.
>>
>> http://www.britcot.com/Index.html
>>
>> Karl
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jdinnis at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 10:45:05 2009
From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 11:45:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
In-Reply-To: <a06110403c73e8bbc6170@10.16.4.5>
References: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>
	<a06110403c73e8bbc6170@10.16.4.5>
Message-ID: <abb8688a0912040945t6e8e17b4y55d4a7165c733ddb@mail.gmail.com>

I have not used this exact brand, but I do have a
"drop-in-replacement" 1157 LED conversion on my motorccyle.  I have
two issues with it.  First, the viewing angle of the LED's is not very
good.  Mine seem to be about 30degrees, which is terrible.  I would
want at least 90 degrees if I was going to invest in new LED bulbs,
preferable 135 degrees.  Second, the impeadance of the LED bulbs, is
not right.  They cause the turn signal blinker to run way too slow.  I
got around this by using an electronic flasher unit, but this is not
always a viable option.

On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 3:55 AM, Tim Gaines <mtgaines at mail.presby.edu> wrote:
> I looked at the cottage industry site Karl wrote about awhile back and saw
> an interesting looking product.  LiteZupp (url below) has LED units that
are
> direct plug-in replacements for the usual 1156 and 1157 light bulbs.  They
> claim the units are much brighter and, of course, take much less current.
>  I'm tempted, but the $25 price per unit isn't trivial.  Has anyone tried
> these out?  Apologies if this has already come up.
>
> http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Welcome.html
>
> Tim
>
> 1980 Spitfire
> 1974 TR6
>
>
>
>> Here's a link I just received, to an interesting site that lists numerous
>> small suppliers of unique British car parts, accessories, and services.
>>  Lots
>> of Triumph-specific guys in the list, as well as other good stuff.  Some
>> US,
>> some British-based.
>>
>> http://www.britcot.com/Index.html
>>
>> Karl
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



--
=================================
= Never offend people with style when you   =
= can offend with substance --- Sam Brown  =
=================================

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Dec  4 11:26:04 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 18:26:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] Searching for The Searchers
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770912040855u570e2504uf64ec70cf2b80fee@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20091203121810.AAU28133@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<6fa72a770912040855u570e2504uf64ec70cf2b80fee@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280E00E7@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>

LOL !. You are spot on, no adaptation needed. Just imagine your Triumph
singing this:

(I'm in pieces, bits and pieces)
Since you left me and you said goodbye
(I'm in pieces, bits and pieces)
All I do is sit and cry
(I'm in pieces, bits and pieces)
You went away and left me misery
(I'm in pieces, bits and pieces)
And that's the way it'll always be



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 11:55 AM
To: jimmuller at rcn.com
Cc: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Searching for The Searchers

My Dave Clark 5 song for the spinal tappets would be Bits and pieces.   I'm
not sure they'd have to change the words....

Cheers!

chris
63 TR4
54 TR2 rusting silently 6ft off the garage floor...

On Thu, Dec 3, 2009 at 12:18 PM, <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> Randall wrote:
> > Several artists covered it, including Cher, but I don't
> > recall the Dave Clark 5 doing it.
>
> > Here's The Searchers' version.
>
> I can't check the mp3 here at work so it will have to wait.  But
> Wikipedia's history of The Searchers calls it their hit and the timline
> suggests 1965.  So as usual you are in the right of it!
>
> Of course, that was only 45 years ago.  And it has been said that if you
> remember the 60's you weren't there.  Geez, I remember the song plain as
day
> but apparently I don't remember the band name at all.
> --
> Jim Muller, wondering what else I've misforgotten
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 12:18:48 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 14:18:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
In-Reply-To: <a06110403c73e8bbc6170@10.16.4.5>
References: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>
	<a06110403c73e8bbc6170@10.16.4.5>
Message-ID: <a38798b30912041118p7e7670ecmf922bb8366c00e7c@mail.gmail.com>

Yes Tim, I have Litezupp in my TR4. My tail lights and brake lights are now
equal in brightness to the three modern daily drivers we use as a family.
These lamps are well worth the price: having dim, incandescent bulbs isn't
trivial, I feel. Another member of our club, Steve Klein, also has them, and
seeing his and my car's tail lights has encouraged an order of more than 30
sets of lamps for other members of Delaware Valley Triumph Club members.

These are not the 'cluster' bulb LED, but a very neat, effective solution
that is a) brighter and b) less of a power draw.

Brian Jones

On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 4:55 AM, Tim Gaines <mtgaines at mail.presby.edu> wrote:

> I looked at the cottage industry site Karl wrote about awhile back and saw
> an interesting looking product.  LiteZupp (url below) has LED units that are
> direct plug-in replacements for the usual 1156 and 1157 light bulbs.  They
> claim the units are much brighter and, of course, take much less current.
>  I'm tempted, but the $25 price per unit isn't trivial.  Has anyone tried
> these out?  Apologies if this has already come up.
>
> http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Welcome.html
>
> Tim

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Dec  4 12:26:49 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 12:26:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 body mounting
In-Reply-To: <4B1932C8.9010500@execulink.com>
References: <4B1932C8.9010500@execulink.com>
Message-ID: <651C4A233BAA47F0A7251952EEA2D44B@bboffice>

<Asking about any experiences about mounting the body to frame. Have used a
new body mount kit and wondering....>


Angelo,

We started by putting everything in place(tub sans wings) finger tight.  All
the spacers in equal numbers everywhere just as the diagrams called for
them.  Give everything a good shake after you are at this point to be sure
the body is 'settled', then retighten with your fingers, repeat as
necessary.

After that I looked at the distances where the body met the frame to see
where we were long or short, even measured from  reference points to the
ground. Remove or add spacers to compensate as needed then tighten it all
down in two or three passes while you watch your gaps and  body-to-ground
measuring points.  Mount your doors and check the reveal around them.

On thing that I over looked and caused me to have to go back was that I did
not install the rear bumperette mounting bolt at this time, I would
recommend doing this when you are attaching the body.

The only thing that bothered me after all was said and done was that the
rubber strips that go between the body and the frame were not all in full
contact with each other everywhere.  But, I felt have the body straight and
the doors looking good was more important.

Enjoy,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Fri Dec  4 13:17:16 2009
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 14:17:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
In-Reply-To: <a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>
References: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>,
	<a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>
Message-ID: <SNT109-W3590C83191723BEB1E14DFBA930@phx.gbl>

Not the particular brand mentioned, but our club did an informal test on a few
1156 and 1157 LED lights. Findings were:



1) There is a lot of variation in brightness among the various brands. The
bulbs we tested ranged from less light than the regular filament bulb to
significantly brighter at certain places (see 2 below)



2) Regular filament bulbs throw off light around almost 360 degrees (at least
in the roughly horizontal plane where they are normally viewed). A lot of this
light hits the reflector in the taillight assembly, is diffused and reflected
back out through the lens. This gives a relatively even brightness when viewed
from anywhere behind the car, even at right angles to the cars long axis (this
of course varies with the lens type and rear ligt layout, but is generally
true). The LEDs we tried (and from appearances, the ones on the website
referenced) directed all their light away from the reflector, so there was no
diffused, reflected light going through the lens. This leaves only a few very
small, very intense light sources. The result was, as you walked around behind
the car there were some very bright spots and some very dim places. The light
was especially dim away from directly behind the vehicle, with almost no light
visible when looking from the side of the vehicle. The lenses on our cars were
designed for a diffuse light source, not point sources, so the light
distrubution is quite poor. I have seen an LED bulb built with rings of LEDs
aimed to the side and base of the bulb but we haven't tested them.



3) Some vehicle's flasher units use the resistance in the filament to time the
flasher  - these will require a replacement non-restance flasher unit if going
to LEDs.



Based on our trial (we were looking at a mass buy) we decided that LEDs
weren't yet developed to the point where they were an improvement on the old
hot filament bulbs and didn't install them.



cheers

Scott



> Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 09:55:54 +0000
> Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
>... LiteZupp (url below) has LED
> units that are direct plug-in replacements for the usual 1156 and
> 1157 light bulbs. They claim the units are much brighter and, of
> course, take much less current. I'm tempted, but the $25 price per
> unit isn't trivial. Has anyone tried these out?

> http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Welcome.html
>


_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates when they e-mail
you.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691817

From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec  4 13:45:10 2009
From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (Rod)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 12:45:10 -0800
Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
In-Reply-To: <EAEC598C-4B48-4734-BE4A-31EAF8545F78@cox.net>
References: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>
	<a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>
	<EAEC598C-4B48-4734-BE4A-31EAF8545F78@cox.net>
Message-ID: <4B1974D6.4080905@sbcglobal.net>

I also converted to the LiteZupp LED lamps in all of my parking turn 
signal lamps and rear turn signal lights for the same reasons.  I also 
used them in the rear brake/running lights.  I modified the lamp  
mounting by removing the stock lamp socket and  installing a lamp 
socket  I purchased at my local FLAPS.  It is the kind that you push 
into a hole.  I had to enlarge the hole that exists in the light 
housing.  This puts the lamp pointing straight back just about even with 
the diffuser lens of the  brake lamp/running light.  The diffuser really 
cut down on the brightness of the LED lamp.  I found that the newer 
replacement light lens that I purchased from Moss the round diffuser 
portion was easily removed from the lens assembly.  This allowed for the 
full LED lamp brightness to pass through the lens.

Rod Trunnell
TR3B  TCF1037l

John A. Wise wrote:
> I used LEDs in all my front parking turn signal lights & my rear turn signal
> lights just because they are very much brighter.  You will need a modern
> electronic flasher unit, they do not draw enough current for the traditional
> type to work.  Because they are very directional they would not work in my
> TR3A rear brake/running light which are pointed down at about 45 degrees.  I
> used extra bright traditional bulbs for brake/running light.
>
> I bought my LEDs from   http://www.superbrightleds.com/
>
> I bought my extra bright bulbs from http://www.ronfrancis.com/
>
> I was happy with the service from both companies.
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ
>
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> Commission No: TS80422L
> http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
> http://www.triumphowners.com/876
>
> 1977 Porsche 911S
> http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Fri Dec  4 15:18:57 2009
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 17:18:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A timing chain lower gear
Message-ID: <4B198AD1.5060009@cogeco.ca>

So how much play is too much?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdgqEHTNJq0

Seems to be when the lower (crank) gear is in line with the upper (cam) one there is side to side slop as if the woodruff key is worn down.   But the sprocket will also move forward & back, when it does there's less side to side play like it's fallen into a groove when it's in it's normal position.

Some of the forward/back play would be eliminated by the oil deflector in the cover but it's not a true thrust washer so what holds the crank gear in line with the cam gear under normal conditions?  Just the chain?

I'm hoping the gear metal is softer then the crank so any wear would be in the gear and not the crank, or is that wishful thinking??

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 15:45:18 2009
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 17:45:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
Message-ID: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>

I've "upgraded" to the Dan Masters wiring kit in my 3a and want to include
four-way flashers, a manually controllable electric fan, and possibly a
couple of other things that need switches.
Does anyone know of a North American source of switches that look like this?
http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/251

Ideally I'd like a DPDT for the flashers but if they aren't made I'll just
use a SPST to toggle a relay, but, extra work.
Or for that matter, anyone have a stash of period switches in OK condition?

Also, looking for a couple of little panels like the ones at the bottom of
this page:

http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0502&agName=Toggle+Switches&pageno=3

-but shipping from the UK is really high...
TIA,
Jim Wallace
2TS81417LO

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec  4 15:45:50 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 16:45:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
References: <ACABF83A07674A90A025F00D5647027E@KARL>,
	<a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>
	<SNT109-W3590C83191723BEB1E14DFBA930@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ED2AE0A9D9F243CF895B60D004879AFE@ranteer.local>

first, i will admit to being prejudiced - jim at litezupp is a good friend 
of mine.

imho you did not use the litezupp lites.  and if you want, i will ask jim to 
send you one to test and compare if you will promise to publish the results 
on this forum.

they do not have just a few bright spots.  look at Brian's blog. 
http://brianjones.tumblr.com:80/

on an mgb, the lenses are fairly large and you can turn around in the car 
and see the top of them.  in my mgb, they shine birghtly and are quite 
visible from inside the car.  on the TR6 they is also a very noticable 
difference.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "scotts junk" <smacsjunk at hotmail.com>
To: <mtgaines at mail.presby.edu>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights


> Not the particular brand mentioned, but our club did an informal test on a 
> few
> 1156 and 1157 LED lights. Findings were:
>
>
>
> 1) There is a lot of variation in brightness among the various brands. The
> bulbs we tested ranged from less light than the regular filament bulb to
> significantly brighter at certain places (see 2 below)
>
>
>
> 2) Regular filament bulbs throw off light around almost 360 degrees (at 
> least
> in the roughly horizontal plane where they are normally viewed). A lot of 
> this
> light hits the reflector in the taillight assembly, is diffused and 
> reflected
> back out through the lens. This gives a relatively even brightness when 
> viewed
> from anywhere behind the car, even at right angles to the cars long axis 
> (this
> of course varies with the lens type and rear ligt layout, but is generally
> true). The LEDs we tried (and from appearances, the ones on the website
> referenced) directed all their light away from the reflector, so there was 
> no
> diffused, reflected light going through the lens. This leaves only a few 
> very
> small, very intense light sources. The result was, as you walked around 
> behind
> the car there were some very bright spots and some very dim places. The 
> light
> was especially dim away from directly behind the vehicle, with almost no 
> light
> visible when looking from the side of the vehicle. The lenses on our cars 
> were
> designed for a diffuse light source, not point sources, so the light
> distrubution is quite poor. I have seen an LED bulb built with rings of 
> LEDs
> aimed to the side and base of the bulb but we haven't tested them.
>
>
>
> 3) Some vehicle's flasher units use the resistance in the filament to time 
> the
> flasher  - these will require a replacement non-restance flasher unit if 
> going
> to LEDs.
>
>
>
> Based on our trial (we were looking at a mass buy) we decided that LEDs
> weren't yet developed to the point where they were an improvement on the 
> old
> hot filament bulbs and didn't install them.
>
>
>
> cheers
>
> Scott
>
>
>
>> Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 09:55:54 +0000
>> Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
>>... LiteZupp (url below) has LED
>> units that are direct plug-in replacements for the usual 1156 and
>> 1157 light bulbs. They claim the units are much brighter and, of
>> course, take much less current. I'm tempted, but the $25 price per
>> unit isn't trivial. Has anyone tried these out?
>
>> http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Welcome.html
>>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Friends get your Flickr, Yelp, and Digg updates when they 
> e-mail
> you.
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691817
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From klassiccar at aol.com  Fri Dec  4 16:14:52 2009
From: klassiccar at aol.com (klassiccar at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 2009 18:14:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] litezupp led's
Message-ID: <8CC434EB7B72A08-186C-EF38@webmail-d010.sysops.aol.com>

One of the guys from our club (DVT), Brian Jones, found litezupp at the VTR
National this year--and fitted the tail light replacements in his 4. After he
bloged how great they were, on his cross country trek, I ordered a set for my
6. These lights are great! My tail light is now equal to what the break light
used to be. The break light is at least double in brightness. These
replacement bulbs are a direct swap. They were designed by an electrical
engineer who is a Triumph owner.

I was so impressed, safety wise, that I have pushed them to other members in
our club, and have arranged a club purchase----having received orders for 30
sets.

By the way, they have a bulb for the 3, that mounts vertical---and lights the
lens properly.

Disclaimer---I have no financial interest in this product, just a satisfied
customer!
Steve Klein
Delaware Valley Triumphs



From: Tim Gaines <mtgaines at mail.presby.edu>
Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
To: TRIUMPHS at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

I looked at the cottage industry site Karl wrote about awhile back
and saw an interesting looking product.  LiteZupp (url below) has LED
units that are direct plug-in replacements for the usual 1156 and
1157 light bulbs.  They claim the units are much brighter and, of
course, take much less current.  I'm tempted, but the $25 price per
unit isn't trivial.  Has anyone tried these out?  Apologies if this
has already come up.

http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Welcome.html

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Dec  4 17:44:07 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 19:44:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <25AA1FDC1D56493FB2715CD6445D2593@BobPC>

Jim,
 I have one of the first AAW TR6 harnesses and mounted the fan, flasher and 
anti-theft switches up under my dash. I actually bought the switches at 
Lowes or HD in the electrical department. Radio Shack also carried them. You 
can see them here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_5B.htm

The fan is a 3-way (on, off and auto) while the other two are SPST.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jim Wallace" <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 5:45 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches

> I've "upgraded" to the Dan Masters wiring kit in my 3a and want to include
> four-way flashers, a manually controllable electric fan, and possibly a
> couple of other things that need switches.
> Does anyone know of a North American source of switches that look like 
> this?
> http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/251
>
> Ideally I'd like a DPDT for the flashers but if they aren't made I'll just
> use a SPST to toggle a relay, but, extra work.
> Or for that matter, anyone have a stash of period switches in OK 
> condition?
>
> Also, looking for a couple of little panels like the ones at the bottom of
> this page:
>
> http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0502&agName=Toggle+Switches&pageno=3
>
> -but shipping from the UK is really high...
> TIA,
> Jim Wallace
> 2TS81417LO

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Fri Dec  4 18:42:28 2009
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 20:42:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
In-Reply-To: <25AA1FDC1D56493FB2715CD6445D2593@BobPC>
References: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>
	<25AA1FDC1D56493FB2715CD6445D2593@BobPC>
Message-ID: <fac10b170912041742g299f8c12ja5cc444c03a9c8ed@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the numerous responses so far.
I need to clarify - it's the look of the switches in the at that url I am
after, not so much the function.
Bob - I did consider the very approach you mention, and indeed Dan even
included the switches in the kit, but I just want to have them out in the
open and looking period.
Do you find you use the "off" position for the fan? I was thinking just "on"
and "auto" would do.
Thanks,
Jim

On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 7:44 PM, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> wrote:

> Jim,
> I have one of the first AAW TR6 harnesses and mounted the fan, flasher and
> anti-theft switches up under my dash. I actually bought the switches at
> Lowes or HD in the electrical department. Radio Shack also carried them. You
> can see them here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_5B.htm
>
> The fan is a 3-way (on, off and auto) while the other two are SPST.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Jim Wallace" <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>
> Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
>
>  I've "upgraded" to the Dan Masters wiring kit in my 3a and want to include
>> four-way flashers, a manually controllable electric fan, and possibly a
>> couple of other things that need switches.
>> Does anyone know of a North American source of switches that look like
>> this?
>> http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/251
>>
>> Ideally I'd like a DPDT for the flashers but if they aren't made I'll just
>> use a SPST to toggle a relay, but, extra work.
>> Or for that matter, anyone have a stash of period switches in OK
>> condition?
>>
>> Also, looking for a couple of little panels like the ones at the bottom of
>> this page:
>>
>>
>> http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0502&agName=Toggle+Switches&pageno=3
>>
>> -but shipping from the UK is really high...
>> TIA,
>> Jim Wallace
>> 2TS81417LO

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec  4 18:53:47 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 17:53:47 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A timing chain lower gear
In-Reply-To: <4B198AD1.5060009@cogeco.ca>
References: <4B198AD1.5060009@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <0E1E888851A84E1D8880BB1F225FDF50@jdnet.deere.com>

Art,

When it's assembled, the timing sprocket is clamped against the front crank
journal by the pulley hub.  It has to be clamped tightly enough to resist
any motion whatsoever (relative to the crank) or things will quickly fail.

The crank in turn is located by the thrust washers and should have only a
few .001" play.  You can insert/change shims if needed between the gear &
crank journal, to align the timing sprockets.  Procedure is in the workshop
manual.

It does look like you have more rotational play between the sprocket and
crank than I would expect ... Are you sure the key was installed and in good
shape?  A new key certainly wouldn't hurt.

If it has been allowed to run loose, such that the fit between the gear &
crank is worn, I expect they will both be worn more-or-less evenly.  That
was certainly the case when my pulley hub worked loose, and I doubt the hub
is hardened.  There is a Loctite product for "restoring" circular fits that
I used with good results; but I don't recall the number offhand.  At the
time, it was called "Circular parts mount", but they've changed the name
several times, and there are probably better choices now anyway.

> But the sprocket will also move forward & 
> back, when it does there's less side to side play like it's 
> fallen into a groove when it's in it's normal position.

I think what you are seeing is the chain becoming tighter, as the sprocket
moves out of line.

-- Randall  

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Dec  4 19:06:20 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 21:06:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170912041742g299f8c12ja5cc444c03a9c8ed@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>
	<25AA1FDC1D56493FB2715CD6445D2593@BobPC>
	<fac10b170912041742g299f8c12ja5cc444c03a9c8ed@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9BF70D42F53E4A57A1DD08DCD841BFAB@BobPC>

I do use the off position on occasion. Sometimes the fan wants to run on after
the car has been turned off and I'll shut it down manually if I feel it's gone
on long enough. And of course, if you're working under the hood on a hot
engine you may not want it coming on. More of a safety thing........

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


From: Jim Wallace
Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 8:42 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas like, switches


Thanks for the numerous responses so far.
I need to clarify - it's the look of the switches in the at that url I am
after, not so much the function.
Bob - I did consider the very approach you mention, and indeed Dan even
included the switches in the kit, but I just want to have them out in the open
and looking period.
Do you find you use the "off" position for the fan? I was thinking just "on"
and "auto" would do.
Thanks,
Jim


On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 7:44 PM, Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
wrote:

  Jim,
  I have one of the first AAW TR6 harnesses and mounted the fan, flasher and
anti-theft switches up under my dash. I actually bought the switches at Lowes
or HD in the electrical department. Radio Shack also carried them. You can see
them here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_5B.htm

  The fan is a 3-way (on, off and auto) while the other two are SPST.

  Bob

  Bob Danielson
  --------------------------------------------------
  From: "Jim Wallace" <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>
  Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches



    I've "upgraded" to the Dan Masters wiring kit in my 3a and want to
include
    four-way flashers, a manually controllable electric fan, and possibly a
    couple of other things that need switches.
    Does anyone know of a North American source of switches that look like
this?
    http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/251

    Ideally I'd like a DPDT for the flashers but if they aren't made I'll
just
    use a SPST to toggle a relay, but, extra work.
    Or for that matter, anyone have a stash of period switches in OK
condition?

    Also, looking for a couple of little panels like the ones at the bottom
of
    this page:

    http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electr
ical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0502&agName=Toggle+Switches&pageno=3

    -but shipping from the UK is really high...
    TIA,
    Jim Wallace
    2TS81417LO

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec  4 19:08:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 18:08:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <64358E9B89F04F3989C4AD337F6E634B@jdnet.deere.com>

> Does anyone know of a North American source of switches that 
> look like this?
> http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/251

Depends on how close a reproduction you want.  My local electronics store
has some that are reasonably similar, but not identical.
Eg,
http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1600

Justin Wagner used to have some of those panels for sale, you might check
with him.
http://www.jmwagnersales.com/lsp.html

-- Randall  

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Sat Dec  5 07:30:29 2009
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 09:30:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A timing chain lower gear
In-Reply-To: <0E1E888851A84E1D8880BB1F225FDF50@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <4B198AD1.5060009@cogeco.ca>
	<0E1E888851A84E1D8880BB1F225FDF50@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4B1A6E85.7080309@cogeco.ca>

Randall wrote:
> Art,
>
> When it's assembled, the timing sprocket is clamped against the front crank
> journal by the pulley hub.  It has to be clamped tightly enough to resist
> any motion whatsoever (relative to the crank) or things will quickly fail.
>
> The crank in turn is located by the thrust washers and should have only a
> few .001" play.  You can insert/change shims if needed between the gear &
> crank journal, to align the timing sprockets.  Procedure is in the workshop
> manual.
>   
Yes parts manual shows 2 shims so I though maybe installing an extra 1 
or 2 might get the lower gear out of it's little wear channel without 
miss-aligning the timing chain too much.

I can feel a small amount of crank movement forward and back but it's 
not enough to see so I'm assuming it's within spec when things are 
buttoned back up.
> It does look like you have more rotational play between the sprocket and
> crank than I would expect ... Are you sure the key was installed and in good
> shape?  A new key certainly wouldn't hurt.
>   
Haven't taken it off yet, figured I'd ask the experts here first and 
order the parts while it's still in place so I don't have to tax my 
memory for as long during re-install.

As I don't see a split link to break the chain I'm assuming the cam gear 
comes off to remove the crank gear? (manual's not clear).

Oddly enough the alignment marks don't look aligned, not sure whether I 
should leave well enough alone or move the crank a tooth worth.

> There is a Loctite product for "restoring" circular fits
OK good to know, I'll look for something similar.
>   
>> But the sprocket will also move forward & 
>> back, when it does there's less side to side play like it's 
>> fallen into a groove when it's in it's normal position.
>>     
>
> I think what you are seeing is the chain becoming tighter, as the sprocket
> moves out of line.
>   
There may be some of that but there's a definite channel the gear falls 
into when the play increases.
> -- Randall  
>
>
>   
Thanks Randall!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec  5 08:20:57 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 07:20:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A timing chain lower gear
In-Reply-To: <4B1A6E85.7080309@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <20091205152056653.FDZG14763@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Yes parts manual shows 2 shims

Two different sizes (.004 & .006), but both are listed "as required".

> so I though maybe installing 
> an extra 1 
> or 2 might get the lower gear out of it's little wear channel without 
> miss-aligning the timing chain too much.

Seems to me that would be even worse, since now the front edge of the gear
is sitting higher than the rest.

> As I don't see a split link to break the chain I'm assuming 
> the cam gear 
> comes off to remove the crank gear? (manual's not clear).

That's right.

> Oddly enough the alignment marks don't look aligned, not sure 
> whether I 
> should leave well enough alone or move the crank a tooth worth.

I wouldn't trust any marks.  If you want to check/adjust the valve timing,
IMO you should go through the whole megilla of finding TDC on the crank and
TDC on the cam, so you can compare the two.  A whole tooth off would be
pretty noticeable (it's adjustable in 1/4 tooth increments), so if the
engine ran OK before, it's probably right.

> There may be some of that but there's a definite channel the 
> gear falls into when the play increases.

Well, then the best approach is probably to pull the crank and have it
repaired/replaced.  But if you don't mind the thought of having to deal with
it again in a few years, a new gear & key plus some Loctite should get you
by for awhile.  When I had the front hub problem, my intention was to only
run that engine for another year or two, while I found time, money &
inclination to build a fresh motor.  That was around 1992 or so, and that
'temporary' fix was still working fine when the car was wrecked in 2004.

The Loctite I used was RC609 (still have the bottle, as I had to buy 50ml of
it), but 660 might be a better choice.
http://tinyurl.com/y9fpsum

Randall

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Sat Dec  5 08:43:42 2009
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 10:43:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A timing chain lower gear
In-Reply-To: <20091205152056653.FDZG14763@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20091205152056653.FDZG14763@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4B1A7FAE.5060204@cogeco.ca>

> , so if the
> engine ran OK before, it's probably right.
>
>   
That's what I'm thinking as well.
>  That was around 1992 or so, and that
> 'temporary' fix was still working fine when the car was wrecked in 2004.
>
>   
Yeah my whole goal was to eliminate the embarrassing clatter when at 
stop lights and to eliminate the source of the fan pulley wobble before 
it did any serious damage to say the front seal and crank,  but since 
the ultimate cure and the eventual disease are essentially the same 
thing (replacing the crank), then a new lower sprocket, shims & key is 
probably more then enough of a bandaid.
> The Loctite I used was RC609 (still have the bottle, as I had to buy 50ml of
> it), but 660 might be a better choice.
> http://tinyurl.com/y9fpsum
>
>   
Excellent! thanks.

Next question is should I do anything about the nagging play in the 
steering box while every thing's exposed....  hmmm......  ;)

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Dec  5 09:07:33 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:07:33 +0000
Subject: [TR] litezupp led's
In-Reply-To: <8CC434EB7B72A08-186C-EF38@webmail-d010.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CC434EB7B72A08-186C-EF38@webmail-d010.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W20D4A2725DD594E50A2510E5920@phx.gbl>

So are there any high light LED head lamps out there for modern cars?

Best regards,
Tom



> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; mtgaines at mail.presby.edu; 60tr3a at cox.net
> Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 18:14:52 -0500
> From: klassiccar at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] litezupp led's
>
> One of the guys from our club (DVT), Brian Jones, found litezupp at the VTR
> National this year--and fitted the tail light replacements in his 4. After
he
> bloged how great they were, on his cross country trek, I ordered a set for
my
> 6. These lights are great! My tail light is now equal to what the break
light
> used to be. The break light is at least double in brightness. These
> replacement bulbs are a direct swap. They were designed by an electrical
> engineer who is a Triumph owner.
>
> I was so impressed, safety wise, that I have pushed them to other members
in
> our club, and have arranged a club purchase----having received orders for
30
> sets.
>
> By the way, they have a bulb for the 3, that mounts vertical---and lights
the
> lens properly.
>
> Disclaimer---I have no financial interest in this product, just a satisfied
> customer!
> Steve Klein
> Delaware Valley Triumphs
>
>
>
> From: Tim Gaines <mtgaines at mail.presby.edu>
> Subject: [TR] LiteZupp LED lights
> To: TRIUMPHS at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <a06110403c73e8bbc6170@[10.16.4.5]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> I looked at the cottage industry site Karl wrote about awhile back
> and saw an interesting looking product.  LiteZupp (url below) has LED
> units that are direct plug-in replacements for the usual 1156 and
> 1157 light bulbs.  They claim the units are much brighter and, of
> course, take much less current.  I'm tempted, but the $25 price per
> unit isn't trivial.  Has anyone tried these out?  Apologies if this
> has already come up.
>
> http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Welcome.html
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Chat with Messenger straight from your Hotmail inbox.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_4:092009

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Dec  5 09:14:43 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 16:14:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170912041742g299f8c12ja5cc444c03a9c8ed@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>,
	<25AA1FDC1D56493FB2715CD6445D2593@BobPC>,
	<fac10b170912041742g299f8c12ja5cc444c03a9c8ed@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W35034B62407CE949DFCC6FE5920@phx.gbl>

I have tried the Radio Sluts look alike switches.  They are so cheap and
fragile that I would avoid using them for anything.

Best regards,
Tom



> Date: Fri, 4 Dec 2009 20:42:28 -0500
> From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com
> To: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas like, switches
>
> Thanks for the numerous responses so far.
> I need to clarify - it's the look of the switches in the at that url I am
> after, not so much the function.
> Bob - I did consider the very approach you mention, and indeed Dan even
> included the switches in the kit, but I just want to have them out in the
> open and looking period.
> Do you find you use the "off" position for the fan? I was thinking just
"on"
> and "auto" would do.
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
> On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 7:44 PM, Bob Danielson
<75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> > wrote:
>
> > Jim,
> > I have one of the first AAW TR6 harnesses and mounted the fan, flasher
and
> > anti-theft switches up under my dash. I actually bought the switches at
> > Lowes or HD in the electrical department. Radio Shack also carried them.
You
> > can see them here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Wire_Harness_5B.htm
> >
> > The fan is a 3-way (on, off and auto) while the other two are SPST.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > Bob Danielson
> > --------------------------------------------------
> > From: "Jim Wallace" <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>
> > Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
> >
> >  I've "upgraded" to the Dan Masters wiring kit in my 3a and want to
include
> >> four-way flashers, a manually controllable electric fan, and possibly a
> >> couple of other things that need switches.
> >> Does anyone know of a North American source of switches that look like
> >> this?
> >> http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/251
> >>
> >> Ideally I'd like a DPDT for the flashers but if they aren't made I'll
just
> >> use a SPST to toggle a relay, but, extra work.
> >> Or for that matter, anyone have a stash of period switches in OK
> >> condition?
> >>
> >> Also, looking for a couple of little panels like the ones at the bottom
of
> >> this page:
> >>
> >>
> >>
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical
&pgName=Switches&agCode=0502&agName=Toggle+Switches&pageno=3
> >>
> >> -but shipping from the UK is really high...
> >> TIA,
> >> Jim Wallace
> >> 2TS81417LO
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free,exclusive  gift.
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?oci
d=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec  5 09:43:51 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 08:43:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A timing chain lower gear
In-Reply-To: <4B1A7FAE.5060204@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <20091205164351358.SXSX5818@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> (replacing the crank)

If the remainder of the crank is in good shape (or just needs a regrind), it
may be more cost-effective to get it repaired.  What they do is lay a weld
bead over the area to build it up, and then grind it back to size (just like
grinding a journal except on-center).  ISTR I was quoted $20, 'back when'.

> Next question is should I do anything about the nagging play in the 
> steering box while every thing's exposed....  hmmm......  ;)

Rebuilding the box on TS39781LO was certainly one of those "Why the *$%
didn't I do this sooner!" experiences.  But of course you have to beware the
dread shipwright's disease!

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec  5 11:59:26 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 13:59:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Lucas like, switches
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170912041445x10995b88hed042dc77ff52f92@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <200912051359.26289.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Jim,

I sourced 4 of the ones like Lucas 31743/80/88 about 4 years ago from an EBAY 
seller from Germany.

I think I paid about 10$ + postage for the 4.

I used 2 on my 4 and the 2 that are left are going on my 6.

I looked forever for these switches and by magic they showed up on Ebay one 
day.

But, I have never seen them again.

Searching ebay I located a couple of hits



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-Triumph-Mini-Jag-LUCAS-Switch-New-Old-
Stock_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a031a1eeeQQitemZ180440669934QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

and 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Two-Lucas-switches-from-a-1964-Alfa-Romeo-
Giulia-
Spider_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c51f55191QQitemZ190353592721QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Bob

From klassiccar at aol.com  Sat Dec  5 13:00:16 2009
From: klassiccar at aol.com (klassiccar at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 15:00:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] litezupp led's
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W20D4A2725DD594E50A2510E5920@phx.gbl>
References: <8CC434EB7B72A08-186C-EF38@webmail-d010.sysops.aol.com>
	<BAY110-W20D4A2725DD594E50A2510E5920@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC43FCB2B8A8C2-37BC-B3B6@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com>

 I have not seen any out there.





-----Original Message-----
From: tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: klassiccar at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; mtgaines at mail.presby.edu;
60tr3a at cox.net
Sent: Sat, Dec 5, 2009 11:07 am
Subject: RE: [TR] litezupp led's


So are there any high light LED head lamps out there for modern cars?

Best regards,Tom

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Dec  5 18:05:39 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 19:05:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
Message-ID: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net>

To All,

Today, a few local Triumph club members got together to install some suspension parts onto a new RatcoTR6 frame. We were trying to install hard rubber bushings into the rear trailing arms and the lower front "A" arms. Long story short, it did not go well. I'm looking for advice as to how others have accomplished this task. I'm not looking for responses telling us we should have used the two piece polyurethane bushings.


Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo,MN

From don at napanet.net  Sat Dec  5 19:03:46 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 18:03:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net>
References: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20091206020505.3BD6D24BA61@mail.napanet.net>

Try plumber's grease on 'em.  You can get it at a hardware 
store.  It's supposed to not deteriorate rubber parts, but will 
lubricate them.



At 05:05 PM 12/05/2009, Greg Gelhar wrote:
>To All,
>
>Today, a few local Triumph club members got together to install some 
>suspension parts onto a new RatcoTR6 frame. We were trying to 
>install hard rubber bushings into the rear trailing arms and the 
>lower front "A" arms. Long story short, it did not go well. I'm 
>looking for advice as to how others have accomplished this task. I'm 
>not looking for responses telling us we should have used the two 
>piece polyurethane bushings.
>
>
>Greg Gelhar
>1973 TR6
>1980 TR8
>Osseo,MN
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>Version: 9.0.709 / Virus Database: 270.14.95/2547 - Release Date: 
>12/05/09 11:41:00

From don at napanet.net  Sat Dec  5 19:48:56 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 2009 18:48:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
Message-ID: <20091206025015.4218124BA5B@mail.napanet.net>

Try plumber's grease on 'em.  You can get it at a hardware 
store.  It's supposed to not deteriorate rubber parts, but will 
lubricate them.



At 05:05 PM 12/05/2009, Greg Gelhar wrote:
>To All,
>
>Today, a few local Triumph club members got together to install some 
>suspension parts onto a new RatcoTR6 frame. We were trying to 
>install hard rubber bushings into the rear trailing arms and the 
>lower front "A" arms. Long story short, it did not go well. I'm 
>looking for advice as to how others have accomplished this task. I'm 
>not looking for responses telling us we should have used the two 
>piece polyurethane bushings.
>
>
>Greg Gelhar
>1973 TR6
>1980 TR8
>Osseo,MN
>
>_______________________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec  5 21:18:14 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 22:18:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
References: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net>
	<20091206020505.3BD6D24BA61@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <D15C803834744DA58147220CC75E8B2B@ranteer.local>

or silicone spray
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "don" <don at napanet.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings


> Try plumber's grease on 'em.  You can get it at a hardware 
> store.  It's supposed to not deteriorate rubber parts, but will 
> lubricate them.

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Dec  5 21:31:14 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 04:31:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <803953635.10532811260073874988.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Greg Gelhar" <ggelhar at earthlink.net> wrote:

> To All,
> 
> Today, a few local Triumph club members got together to install some
> suspension parts onto a new RatcoTR6 frame. We were trying to install
> hard rubber bushings into the rear trailing arms and the lower front
> "A" arms. Long story short, it did not go well. I'm looking for advice
> as to how others have accomplished this task. I'm not looking for
> responses telling us we should have used the two piece polyurethane
> bushings.

Sorry I was not able to stick around longer.  Also sorry that it didn't go well after I left.

More-substantial and more slippery lube seems to me the answer.  I don't know anything about the plumber's lube recommended by others, but it's worth a shot.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Dec  6 00:58:45 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 00:58:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net>
References: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4B1B6435.2070809@bradakis.com>

I've often used a length of threaded rod and stacks of large washers
to pull bushings into place as the nuts are tightened.  You don't have
to use a rod that goes all the way through both bushings, a bolt of
the appropriate length can work on one at a time.

Lubrication helps a lot.  I've used WD-40, white lithium grease,
emulsified hand cleaner ( not the kind with pumice or other grit! )
and Girling rubber grease at one time or another.

mjb.

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Dec  6 07:29:56 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 14:29:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <4B1B6435.2070809@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <369672264.11793771260109796727.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Lubrication helps a lot. B I've used WD-40, white lithium grease,
>emulsified hand cleaner ( not the kind with pumice or other grit! )
>and Girling rubber grease at one time or another.

I picked up a tube of silicone grease at my local parts house for about $10
when restoring my 3.B  Still have half of it left.B  It's made exactly for
this.B  The particular brand is AGS Syl-Glyde.



Have fun!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire:B  Where we got our first snow last night.

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sun Dec  6 08:03:54 2009
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 07:03:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings= noisy
In-Reply-To: <4B1B6435.2070809@bradakis.com>
References: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net>
	<4B1B6435.2070809@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <000901ca7685$54df03b0$fe9d0b10$@rr.com>

After a few years my front suspension creaks a lot after installing the poly
bushings. The rears are quiet. Any ideas to quieten it?

Johnnie
TR4A

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
> Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 11:59 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
> 
> I've often used a length of threaded rod and stacks of large washers
> to pull bushings into place as the nuts are tightened.  You don't have
> to use a rod that goes all the way through both bushings, a bolt of
> the appropriate length can work on one at a time.
> 
> Lubrication helps a lot.  I've used WD-40, white lithium grease,
> emulsified hand cleaner ( not the kind with pumice or other grit! )
> and Girling rubber grease at one time or another.
> 
> mjb.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec  6 09:04:05 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 08:04:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <4B1B6435.2070809@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <20091206160405271.LIXD5818@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Lubrication helps a lot.  I've used WD-40, white lithium grease,
> emulsified hand cleaner ( not the kind with pumice or other grit! )
> and Girling rubber grease at one time or another.

What, no KY Jelly ?

Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Dec  6 09:14:53 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 09:14:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings= noisy
In-Reply-To: <000901ca7685$54df03b0$fe9d0b10$@rr.com>
References: <410-2200912061539765@earthlink.net><4B1B6435.2070809@bradakis.com>
	<000901ca7685$54df03b0$fe9d0b10$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <E7C7795E75AF43E89EF1DEB253C25903@joepentiumnew>

My wife once has an 85 Firebird that had a squeak in the front suspension
from the day it was purchased.  I learned the bushings were polyurethane and
occasionally applying liberal amounts of silicon spray, it quieted down.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John & Pat Donnelly
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 8:04 AM
To: 'Mark J Bradakis'; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings= noisy

After a few years my front suspension creaks a lot after installing the poly
bushings. The rears are quiet. Any ideas to quieten it?

Johnnie
TR4A

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sun Dec  6 10:38:03 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 11:38:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
Message-ID: <410-22009120617383437@earthlink.net>

Thanks to everyone that replied to my question of install ing the rubber
bushings into the suspension arms. We were using the threaded rod and large
socket method and used liquid dish soap for a lubricant. The holes were
cleaned and smooth. We are using the hard rubber bushings that Anthony
Vigliotti from RATCO instructed us to use. They are quite hard and do not
compress easily. I would say they are as hard as the urethane bushings.

It would seem your suggestions for a better lubricant would have helped,
but we were using what we had at the time. While we had some success, I
thought there must be some trick method we were missing. I even did some
searching on the internet, but did not find any help there.

I'm thinking to make up some tools to be available to other club members
consisting of a full size threaded rod (7/16) a lead in bushing for
alignment and a internally tapered guide to help compress the bushing as it
enters the hole in the arm. Has anyone seen something like that?

Our group is very impressed with the RATCO frame. 

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN





.

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Dec  6 11:58:58 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 11:58:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <20091206160405271.LIXD5818@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <4B1B6435.2070809@bradakis.com>
	<20091206160405271.LIXD5818@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <56E0F7C489D448598ACF9F8926028F4A@joepentiumnew>

You can no longer use KY because their new formula (KY Intense) causes the
suspension to emit loud burst of audible satisfaction!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 9:04 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings

> Lubrication helps a lot.  I've used WD-40, white lithium grease,
> emulsified hand cleaner ( not the kind with pumice or other grit! )
> and Girling rubber grease at one time or another.

What, no KY Jelly ?

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Dec  6 12:01:09 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 12:01:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <410-22009120617383437@earthlink.net>
References: <410-22009120617383437@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4C42B3135E4A4AFA80B70CBD7D784239@joepentiumnew>

Greg,
I think that with what you said, I would try heating the bushings in hot
water to soften them up a bit before installing.  Obviously, cooler weather
doesn't help.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Gelhar
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 10:38 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings

Thanks to everyone that replied to my question of install ing the rubber
bushings into the suspension arms. We were using the threaded rod and large
socket method and used liquid dish soap for a lubricant. The holes were
cleaned and smooth. We are using the hard rubber bushings that Anthony
Vigliotti from RATCO instructed us to use. They are quite hard and do not
compress easily. I would say they are as hard as the urethane bushings.

It would seem your suggestions for a better lubricant would have helped,
but we were using what we had at the time. While we had some success, I
thought there must be some trick method we were missing. I even did some
searching on the internet, but did not find any help there.

I'm thinking to make up some tools to be available to other club members
consisting of a full size threaded rod (7/16) a lead in bushing for
alignment and a internally tapered guide to help compress the bushing as it
enters the hole in the arm. Has anyone seen something like that?

Our group is very impressed with the RATCO frame. 

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN

From GSFuqua1 at aol.com  Sun Dec  6 13:20:00 2009
From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 15:20:00 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  installing rubber suspension bushings
Message-ID: <c5d.619f4732.384d6bf0@aol.com>

If you have access to a hydraulic press you can use that with a little  
lubrication and it sure saves a lot of effort and work.  This is what  we do 
that at our shop.
 
Gary Fuqua

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Sun Dec  6 13:54:47 2009
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 13:54:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
Message-ID: <4B1C1A17.5070900@shaw.ca>

> Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 19:05:39 -0600
> From: "Greg Gelhar" <ggelhar at earthlink.net>
> Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <410-2200912061539765 at earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> To All,
>
> Today, a few local Triumph club members got together to install some suspension parts onto a new RatcoTR6 frame. We were trying to install hard rubber bushings into the rear trailing arms and the lower front "A" arms. Long story short, it did not go well. I'm looking for advice as to how others have accomplished this task. I'm not looking for responses telling us we should have used the two piece polyurethane bushings.
>
>
> Greg Gelhar
> 1973 TR6
> 1980 TR8
> Osseo,MN
This has worked for me freeze the bushing over night then dust them with 
corn starch before pressing them in.
Corn starch is the white powdery stuff you find inside a lot of rubber 
electrical cables. It is also used in a lot of automated assembly lines 
as a mold release and assembly lubricant. It also washes off easily when 
you are done.

Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
!963 Fiat Cabriolet

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Dec  6 14:55:59 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 16:55:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR250 & TR6 Calendars
Message-ID: <44D7B5B14B924B07BF46B20020CADD0E@BobPC>

If anyone is interested, the annual 6-Pack Calendar is available for 
purchase.............. 9 TR6's and 3 TR250's in a wide assortment of colors. 
There's a few still left so email Fid at editor at 6-PACK.org for price and 
shipping details.

NFI.... just a happy customer.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Dec  6 15:54:52 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 16:54:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <4B1C1A17.5070900@shaw.ca>
References: <4B1C1A17.5070900@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W57B0B7134FC77AA7B7FB41E1910@phx.gbl>

Doug Hamilton  said:
> Corn starch is the white powdery stuff you find inside a lot of rubber
> electrical cables. It is also used in a lot of automated assembly lines
> as a mold release and assembly lubricant. It also washes off easily when
> you are done.

Check the baking isle in the grocery store.  It is used in gravy as a stuff as
a thickening agent.


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!




> Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 13:54:47 -0700
> From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
>
> > Date: Sat, 5 Dec 2009 19:05:39 -0600
> > From: "Greg Gelhar" <ggelhar at earthlink.net>
> > Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
> > To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> > Message-ID: <410-2200912061539765 at earthlink.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > To All,
> >
> > Today, a few local Triumph club members got together to install some
suspension parts onto a new RatcoTR6 frame. We were trying to install hard
rubber bushings into the rear trailing arms and the lower front "A" arms. Long
story short, it did not go well. I'm looking for advice as to how others have
accomplished this task. I'm not looking for responses telling us we should
have used the two piece polyurethane bushings.
> >
> >
> > Greg Gelhar
> > 1973 TR6
> > 1980 TR8
> > Osseo,MN
> This has worked for me freeze the bushing over night then dust them with
> corn starch before pressing them in.
> Corn starch is the white powdery stuff you find inside a lot of rubber
> electrical cables. It is also used in a lot of automated assembly lines
> as a mold release and assembly lubricant. It also washes off easily when
> you are done.
>
> Doug Hamilton
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> !963 Fiat Cabriolet
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec  6 17:18:31 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 16:18:31 -0800
Subject: [TR] installing rubber suspension bushings
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W57B0B7134FC77AA7B7FB41E1910@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20091207001832592.JSVT8989@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> > Corn starch is the white powdery stuff you find inside a 
> lot of rubber
> > electrical cables. 
> 
> Check the baking isle in the grocery store.  

Also, some baby powders are corn starch (check the label).  Comes in a
convenient 'shaker' applicator <G>

Come to think of it, talcum powder should do just as well, in this case.

Randall

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sun Dec  6 17:29:52 2009
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 2009 19:29:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] What seats will fit the Uncle Jack Seat Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <44D7B5B14B924B07BF46B20020CADD0E@BobPC>
References: <44D7B5B14B924B07BF46B20020CADD0E@BobPC>
Message-ID: <8CC44EB8701CCD5-40C8-66DC@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>

Bob & SIX PACK,

I think all of the Miata seats fit, Uncle Jack's design, but I have this
gnawing feeling that there might be an exception. Can anyone help us?

I have had two questions stateside about the Miata seats.

I have also had the same question from offshore regarding the "MX5", which I
think is the same.

Any help would be appreciated.

BTW, The TRIUMPH & SIX PACK list offer still stands until the 1st of January.
Conversion Kit: $60 including shipping.

Thanks! Joe & Sean Alexander

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Dec  6 18:54:15 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2009 20:54:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] What seats will fit the Uncle Jack Seat Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <8CC44EB8701CCD5-40C8-66DC@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
References: <44D7B5B14B924B07BF46B20020CADD0E@BobPC>
	<8CC44EB8701CCD5-40C8-66DC@webmail-d045.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8F461444193343B0B4529456EB728A67@BobPC>

I just got Uncle Jack's brackets and the quality is outstanding with regard 
to manufacturing and finish. I hope to get them installed this week, if my 
back will allow me to do any "heavy" lifting.   As always, I'll be taking 
pictures, documenting the whole process and posting it all to my site upon 
completion. I'm sure the fit will be as good as the appearance.

As to what seats will fit in a TR6........... my understanding is that it is 
only the early seats, maybe up to 1997. After that they get too wide in the 
shoulder area and interfere with the top's frame. I know one guy who got a 
late set and had to do some serious frame modification so that the seats 
would fit and the top would go up and down.

The Miata has always been called MX5 everywhere but in the states, and now 
the newer models are called also MX5.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



From: n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2009 7:29 PM
To: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 
6pack at autox.team.net ; seanax at iowalaser.com
Subject: What seats will fit the Uncle Jack Seat Conversion Kit


Bob & SIX PACK,

I think all of the Miata seats fit, Uncle Jack's design, but I have this 
gnawing feeling that there might be an exception. Can anyone help us?

I have had two questions stateside about the Miata seats.

I have also had the same question from offshore regarding the "MX5", which I 
think is the same.

Any help would be appreciated.

BTW, The TRIUMPH & SIX PACK list offer still stands until the 1st of 
January.  Conversion Kit: $60 including shipping.

Thanks! Joe & Sean Alexander

From GSFuqua1 at aol.com  Sun Dec  6 23:07:21 2009
From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 01:07:21 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR250 & TR6 Calendars
Message-ID: <d0b.5f51d34c.384df599@aol.com>

I'd sure love to have a couple.  Please let me know how much and where  to 
send payment.
 
Cheers to all!! 
 
Gary Fuqua
 
 
In a message dated 12/6/2009 4:50:49 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

If  anyone is interested, the annual 6-Pack Calendar is available for  
purchase.............. 9 TR6's and 3 TR250's in a wide assortment of  
colors. 
There's a few still left so email Fid at editor at 6-PACK.org for  price and 
shipping details.

NFI.... just a happy  customer.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/  Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan  LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org  
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as  gsfuqua1 at aol.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec  7 06:14:53 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 07:14:53 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR250 & TR6 Calendars
References: <d0b.5f51d34c.384df599@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F2F142701C3F4D13868CDB07C2C2330D@ranteer.local>

go to www.6-pack.org; the info is there

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <GSFuqua1 at aol.com>
To: <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, December 07, 2009 12:07 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR250 & TR6 Calendars


> I'd sure love to have a couple.  Please let me know how much and where  to
> send payment.
>
> Cheers to all!!
>
> Gary Fuqua

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec  7 18:51:58 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 20:51:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] [POB] Oh, AKL - vintage auto division
In-Reply-To: <4cb69293e1dfddb55120e151f91c49cc.squirrel@email.fatcow.com>
Message-ID: <4B1D6AEE.18084.837A62@localhost>

The following request came from another email I participate in.  
Anyone know what this is?  It looks, ummm, expensive.

> I need help identifying an old automobile which is at...
> 
> http://www.hmssurprise.org/Photos/Short/index.php?chg_node=15
>
> I don't know who any of these people are, except the woman on
> the far right might be either my mother or her mother.

No relation to me, of course.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From don at napanet.net  Tue Dec  8 00:37:28 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 2009 23:37:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] Best muffler supplier?
Message-ID: <20091208073917.E337124BA5B@mail.napanet.net>

>I have purchased a TR4A with live rear axle.  I need to replace 
>exhaust components, especially the muffler.  Can anyone recommend 
>best supplier?  I don't want stainless steel, as I have heard that 
>the exhaust note if rather unpleasant and I live in California 
>anyway so outside rust is not going to kill a muffler.  Thanks!

Don



____________________________________________________________________________________



Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2001 Miata SE BRG
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1966 TR4A
1962 MGA Mk II  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  8 06:46:30 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 05:46:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] Best muffler supplier?
In-Reply-To: <20091208073917.E337124BA5B@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <20091208134631095.RVBK5708@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> >I have purchased a TR4A with live rear axle.  I need to replace 
> >exhaust components, especially the muffler.  Can anyone recommend 
> >best supplier?  

Local muffler shop gets my vote.  The head pipe was in usable condition, so
he built everything from there back, with two "Cherry bomb" seamless
glasspacks in 'aluminized' mild steel.  The sound is just right, whole
operation took less than an hour, and best of all I didn't even get my hands
dirty.  Less than $200 for everything, including new mounts & tax.

I don't see anything in Calistoga, but Franklin muffler over in Santa Rosa
looks like a good bet.

Randall

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Tue Dec  8 11:53:00 2009
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 12:53:00 -0600
Subject: [TR] [POB] Oh, AKL - vintage auto division
In-Reply-To: <4B1D6AEE.18084.837A62@localhost>
References: <4cb69293e1dfddb55120e151f91c49cc.squirrel@email.fatcow.com>,
	<4B1D6AEE.18084.837A62@localhost>
Message-ID: <SNT109-W49A521A81B7329C3030BD9BA8F0@phx.gbl>

I'm thinking a Lincoln, maybe a model K 1935 or 36.

cheers

Scott

> From: jimmuller at rcn.com
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2009 20:51:58 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] [POB] Oh, AKL - vintage auto division
>
> The following request came from another email I participate in.
> Anyone know what this is? It looks, ummm, expensive.
>
> > I need help identifying an old automobile which is at...
> >
> > http://www.hmssurprise.org/Photos/Short/index.php?chg_node=15
> >
> > I don't know who any of these people are, except the woman on
> > the far right might be either my mother or her mother.
>
> No relation to me, of course.
>
> --
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691815

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Dec  8 12:13:48 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 12:13:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] [POB] Oh, AKL - vintage auto division
In-Reply-To: <4B1D6AEE.18084.837A62@localhost>
References: <4cb69293e1dfddb55120e151f91c49cc.squirrel@email.fatcow.com>
	<4B1D6AEE.18084.837A62@localhost>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0912081113p5b6c827dk28f9cd854d1404b@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/7/09, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:
>
>> I need help identifying an old automobile which is at...

Hood ornament looks like it might be a Dodge...

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2960746110013961990Kzepvz

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Dec  8 12:21:53 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 12:21:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] [POB] Oh, AKL - vintage auto division
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0912081113p5b6c827dk28f9cd854d1404b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4cb69293e1dfddb55120e151f91c49cc.squirrel@email.fatcow.com>
	<4B1D6AEE.18084.837A62@localhost>
	<7bb181af0912081113p5b6c827dk28f9cd854d1404b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0912081121o3c3f91f3kec89c9c0c9bfaf4c@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/8/09, Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:
> On 12/7/09, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I need help identifying an old automobile which is at...
>
> Hood ornament looks like it might be a Dodge...
>
Perhaps a '35 Dodge?

http://www.carnut.com/cgi-bin/06/image.pl?/show/06/ver/nat586.jpg

From koblinger at verizon.net  Tue Dec  8 14:53:27 2009
From: koblinger at verizon.net (koblinger at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 15:53:27 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] [POB] Oh, AKL - vintage auto division
Message-ID: <1109509937.395634.1260309207128.JavaMail.root@vms231.mailsrvcs.net>

/3bfB06: Permission denied

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Dec  8 14:49:16 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 14:49:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] [POB] Oh, AKL - vintage auto division
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1260298801.24169.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1260298801.24169.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <EFED3A98-7273-4661-8344-3585F9D6B38B@telus.net>

1935 Dodge

see:  http://tinyurl.com/yzdswzk


On 8-Dec-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> The following request came from another email I participate in.
> Anyone know what this is?  It looks, ummm, expensive.
>
>> I need help identifying an old automobile which is at...
>>
>> http://www.hmssurprise.org/Photos/Short/index.php?chg_node=15
>>
>> I don't know who any of these people are, except the woman on
>> the far right might be either my mother or her mother.
>
> No relation to me, of course.
>
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Tue Dec  8 17:36:49 2009
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 19:36:49 EST
Subject: [TR] Pasadena
Message-ID: <cac.5d4e325c.38504b21@aol.com>

Listers,
 
I'm going to be in Pasadena the last week of December and will have some  
free time to do some things automotive. I'm already planning to visit  
Autobooks-Aerobooks, but would like to know of any other places or events  that 
would be worthwhile.
 
Thanks,
Eric
71 TR6

From triumph.driver at gmail.com  Tue Dec  8 18:35:08 2009
From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 20:35:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pasadena
In-Reply-To: <cac.5d4e325c.38504b21@aol.com>
References: <cac.5d4e325c.38504b21@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1F824CFDC96342AF9C4B8AA84EDE80BE@chuck>

The Rose Bowl on Jan 1st to watch Ohio State defeat Oregon!!

Go Bucks!

Chuck White
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A IRS
1970 GT6+ 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ElangTR4 at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 7:37 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Pasadena

Listers,
 
I'm going to be in Pasadena the last week of December and will have some
free time to do some things automotive. I'm already planning to visit
Autobooks-Aerobooks, but would like to know of any other places or events
that would be worthwhile.
 
Thanks,
Eric
71 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Dec  8 19:03:07 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 18:03:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
Message-ID: <397888.63821.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

randall and listers,
I've been considering changing my tr-6 stock exhaust system to something with more "sound" so was very interested in what Randall did by simply using a local muffler shop with glasspacks.  My biggest concern is noise at high way speed.  Not wanting to have the "drone" that some times comes with changes in exhaust systems. 

Did you find any negative noise at highway speed?   Not sure if there would be a differance between 5 and 6 cylinder.  I've been thinking of smitty mufflers..........or just picking out a glass pack like cherry bomb.

thanks!

gary n.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec  8 19:51:43 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 21:51:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] vintage auto division
In-Reply-To: <4B1D6AEE.18084.837A62@localhost>
References: <4cb69293e1dfddb55120e151f91c49cc.squirrel@email.fatcow.com>
Message-ID: <4B1ECA6F.6600.5E08931@localhost>

Thanks to all of you who replied about the vintage auto.  The 
concensus is that it is a 1935 Dodge.  Gots lots of other suggestions 
and they all looked alike during that time, but the subtle details 
were pretty clear about it.

Thanks,

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From don at napanet.net  Tue Dec  8 20:07:49 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2009 19:07:49 -0800
Subject: [TR] upper A-arm bushings?
Message-ID: <20091209030952.7A1D224BA6B@mail.napanet.net>

>Ok, I'm ignorant on Triumphs, having only owned a couple of TR8s 
>prior to the 4A.  Looking thru TRF and Moss catalogues, I have a bit 
>of a quandry- upper wishbone bushings  and upper A-arm bushings- are 
>these the same thing?

Thanks!

Don



____________________________________________________________________________________



Don Scott
Calistoga CA
2001 Miata SE BRG
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1966 TR4A
1962 MGA Mk II  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec  8 20:41:35 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 19:41:35 -0800
Subject: [TR] Pasadena
In-Reply-To: <cac.5d4e325c.38504b21@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20091209034135009.TOMP5650@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> I'm going to be in Pasadena the last week of December and 
> will have some  
> free time to do some things automotive. 

Depending on how mobile you will be, I'd suggest the Peterson Automotive
museum over in LA (roughly 20 miles); or better yet (if you've got the time
and transportation) the Nethercutt museum in Sylmar (ditto).

Of course, you can try cruising Colorado Blvd, but the legendary little old
lady moved to the suburbs long ago <G>  Even Mulholland Drive has been
tamed.

Randall

From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Dec  8 21:21:06 2009
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 22:21:06 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Pasadena
In-Reply-To: <cac.5d4e325c.38504b21@aol.com>
References: <cac.5d4e325c.38504b21@aol.com>
Message-ID: <53384.208.180.254.254.1260332466.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

It's been a while, but I thoroughly enjoyed the Peterson Automotive Museum
(about 9 years ago) - enough so that I would go back. Looks like it's about 20
miles from central Pasadena - http://tinyurl.com/yzlj8yu

Address is 6060 Wilshire Blvd, LA 90036
Lots more info at their web site
   http://www.petersen.org

> I'm going to be in Pasadena the last week of December and will have some
> free time to do some things automotive. I'm already planning to visit
> Autobooks-Aerobooks, but would like to know of any other places or events
> that would be worthwhile.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  9 00:18:26 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2009 23:18:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] upper A-arm bushings?
In-Reply-To: <20091209030952.7A1D224BA6B@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <20091209071826612.ZVKV5708@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> >Ok, I'm ignorant on Triumphs, having only owned a couple of TR8s 
> >prior to the 4A.  Looking thru TRF and Moss catalogues, I have a bit 
> >of a quandry- upper wishbone bushings  and upper A-arm bushings- are 
> >these the same thing?

Yup.  "Wishbone" is British for "A-arm".

BTW, since you are new, I'll point out that TRF doesn't really publish a
full catalog for the 4A, only a "most popular parts" sort of thing.  You're
expected to find a copy of the factory "Spare Parts Catalogue" (which I
think they have for sale) and order using the factory part numbers.  Strange
way to do business, but apparently common in the UK.

Randall

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec  9 06:53:47 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 08:53:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <397888.63821.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <397888.63821.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CC46EE29E2B901-48B4-21EC0@webmail-d025.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>


I've been considering changing my tr-6 stock exhaust system to something with
more "sound" so was very interested in what Randall did by simply using a
local
muffler shop with glasspacks.  My biggest concern is noise at high way speed.
Not wanting to have the "drone" that some times comes with changes in exhaust
systems.










What do you mean "more sound?"  Assuming you want something that is more
pleasing then it really boils down to what you like.  This is a subjective
evaluation but I like the sound of glass packs as long as there is a serious
length of pipe afterwards.  The problem with the TR6 is there is no room for a
muffler ahead of the rear axle and that means a rather short piece of pipe on
the outlet of the muffler, if any at all.  A clever exhaust specialist may be
able to work something out, however.

But that's just me.  You may be pleased with the result.

Dave

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec  9 07:27:05 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 08:27:05 -0600
Subject: [TR] next week in Nashville
Message-ID: <70E9D1957855455698C9FBD624D19BA1@ranteer.local>

are there any british car events happening between the 12th and 17th?

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  9 10:23:45 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 09:23:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <397888.63821.qm@web65307.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20091209172344974.CHFV14763@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Did you find any negative noise at highway speed?   

I'm not sure how to answer that question, Gary.  I can hear the exhaust at
freeway speeds, but I would call it more of a hum than a drone, and it
doesn't bother me.  The wind is much louder (but I expect a TR6 would not
have as much wind noise as a TR3).

Worth noting perhaps that the factory system for the TR3 was a pair of
glasspacks as well, so what I have is rather similar to stock.  But the
factory units were oval and had seams, while mine are round and seamless.

If you look closely, you can see the rear muffler peeking out in this shot:
http://tinyurl.com/yapelm5

One way to moderate the sound further would be to add a downturned tip
(which I had on my previous TR3A with only one glasspack).
http://tinyurl.com/yal5ans  But I have not felt the need with this setup, as
yet anyway.  I may add it eventually just because I like the look, though.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Dec  9 11:45:17 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Wed,  9 Dec 2009 13:45:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
Message-ID: <20091209134517.ABN55559@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

> > Did you find any negative noise at highway speed?

Negative noise?  How does that work?  Does it suck noise out of the environment to make things quieter?  If it did, how would find it at all?

--
Jim Muller

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Wed Dec  9 12:35:45 2009
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 13:35:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <20091209134517.ABN55559@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091209134517.ABN55559@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <97D2414E9FF448BF9B64F3B499F4EE78@aitinc.local>

It works the same as the Lucas Dark Sucker headlamps.

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Terry Geiger  www.GeigerGarage.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??


>> > Did you find any negative noise at highway speed?
>
> Negative noise?  How does that work?  Does it suck noise out of the 
> environment to make things quieter?  If it did, how would find it at all?
>
> --
> Jim Muller

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec  9 12:37:51 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:37:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <20091209134517.ABN55559@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <20091209134517.ABN55559@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <3B4C3D7468634C8680E09BCB32C51994@jdnet.deere.com>

> Negative noise?  How does that work?  Does it suck noise out 
> of the environment to make things quieter?  If it did, how 
> would find it at all?

I don't know, but I sure love my noise-cancelling earphones.  The difference
when you flip the switch for the noise-cancelling feature is really
remarkable.

But of course I don't use them while driving, that would be illegal.

-- Randall  

From tdskip at yahoo.com  Wed Dec  9 13:13:05 2009
From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 12:13:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Pasadena
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1260385201.7909.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <435089.43736.qm@web55602.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Keep an eye on http://www.bench-racing.com/
 


------------------------------

Listers,

I'm going to be in Pasadena the last week of December and will have some 
free time to do some things automotive. I'm already planning to visit 
Autobooks-Aerobooks, but would like to know of any other places or events 
that
would be worthwhile.

Thanks,
Eric
71 TR6

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Dec  9 14:16:15 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 14:16:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <97D2414E9FF448BF9B64F3B499F4EE78@aitinc.local>
References: <20091209134517.ABN55559@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<97D2414E9FF448BF9B64F3B499F4EE78@aitinc.local>
Message-ID: <088EED319D0D4808AE2C968ACB0644BD@bboffice>

Touchi Terry!

I elected to forgo the resonator on my otherwise stock, steel, TR3A in favor
of the earlier straight pipe of the TR2-3 era and am quite happy the
resonant, not too loud, sound of the exhaust.  The only thing that I think
could improve would be to have some headers that would a true dual exhaust
all the way from the engine to the rear.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Terry Geiger
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 12:36 PM
To: jimmuller at rcn.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??

It works the same as the Lucas Dark Sucker headlamps.

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Terry Geiger  www.GeigerGarage.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??


>> > Did you find any negative noise at highway speed?
>
> Negative noise?  How does that work?  Does it suck noise out of the
> environment to make things quieter?  If it did, how would find it at all?
>
> --
> Jim Muller
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Wed Dec  9 14:37:02 2009
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 13:37:02 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Dashboard headlight lettering for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <70E9D1957855455698C9FBD624D19BA1@ranteer.local>
References: <70E9D1957855455698C9FBD624D19BA1@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <700584.49261.qm@web56204.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I had my dash refinished years ago and it has always bugged me theLIGHTS
lettering under the headlights switch is missing. Has anyone found a cost
effective, easy way to replace/re-letter?

Thank in advance for any
assistance.

Robert Rudolphi
74 TR6 

From hdrider570 at att.net  Wed Dec  9 14:45:51 2009
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 13:45:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1260385201.7909.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <854019.68847.qm@web83815.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I am running the rear portion of a TRF SS TR4A exhaust system on my TR4.  The TR4A system is basically a TR6 "Sport" set up in that it has two mufflers run Parallel to the direction of travel.  

I have a header and a flex joint in the front of the system with a single 2 1/4" pipe through the center section which then Y's into the twin exhaust.

With this set up there is a nice exhaust tone without the "Drone" usually associated with "Monza" type systems.

The other thing to beware of is thin walled pipes which transmit quite a bit of noise up into the interior of the car.

Edward Hamer
Petaluam CA

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Wed Dec  9 16:59:29 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2009 23:59:29 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] A surprise in store
Message-ID: <520533.55476.qm@web28308.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Hi, Everyone

Encountered a true 'Triumph' story today that I feel might entertain?
Paid a visit to my local picture framer to get a quote for one of the Triumph
Trans America maps I've brought home. This bloke is a bit of a 'green' fanatic
and berated me in friendly fashion for my contribution to global warming. He
then looked at what I wanted framed and said, "Ah, so you did the trip in a
Stag, then?"
He continued.
"Some years ago, my wife and I were looking for a house and we received some
details about a property we really liked. It was in a fantastic location in
the hills, had fabulous views across the country - and seemed to fit our price
band exactly."
Seems this house had a large basement and this was important for the picture
framing business and the agent's info on the property said something like
"contents of basement included in sale."
They went to look at the house and found it needed rather more work (and
money) than they had available, so decided to give it a miss. However, before
leaving, the agent was very pressing about seeing all the property so they
went into the basement which was indeed large. There was a superb workroom, a
large storeroom and an even larger garage, with extensive workshop equipment
and tools - and in the garage was a Triumph Stag. Six years old at the time,
had covered less than 5000 miles since new and hadn't been used for at least a
year.
Why was it included with the house?
The widower owner had died, the relatives were all overseas and the people
charged with disposing of the estate didn't want to get involved in selling
the car.
When did this happen? 1986 - so don't hurl yourselves at the UK to buy a house
with a built-in Triumph - 'cos it's gone :)

Jonmac

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Dec 10 05:36:32 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 07:36:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <3B4C3D7468634C8680E09BCB32C51994@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <3B4C3D7468634C8680E09BCB32C51994@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <8CC47AC89E3FA92-8C04-218@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com>

 Although legal, using them when the wife is talking is still not
recommended.? ;-)

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Randall &lt;tr3driver at ca.rr.com&gt;
I don't know, but I sure love my noise-cancelling earphones.  The difference
when you flip the switch for the noise-cancelling feature is really
remarkable.

But of course I don't use them while driving, that would be illegal.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Dec 10 15:21:48 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 17:21:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <8CC47AC89E3FA92-8C04-218@webmail-m090.sysops.aol.com>
References: <3B4C3D7468634C8680E09BCB32C51994@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4B212E2C.26676.F3621B4@localhost>

On 10 Dec 2009 at 7:36, dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> Although legal, using them when the wife is talking is still not
> recommended.? ;-)

Although legal or illegal, not using them when the wife insists is 
not recommended either!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Dec 10 18:45:57 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 20:45:57 EST
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
Message-ID: <3857.15cf21b7.3852fe55@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/10/2009 4:58:19 PM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> >Although legal, using them when the wife is talking is still not
> >recommended.? ;-)
> 
> Although legal or illegal, not using them when the wife insists is 
> not recommended either!
> 

My wife has never mentioned noise canceling headphones but she does issue 
me blinders whenever we go to the beach.

Dave

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 10 20:26:43 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2009 19:26:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] dashboard refinishing
Message-ID: <752589.45541.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

I did my dashboard a year ago and am mostly happy with it.  Mine was very badly chipped and peeling so instead of simply sanding and re-varnishing I took off the veneer.  This came off fairly easily with chisel and putty knife.  I found veneer at a box home improvement store and wanted mahogony or birds eye maple........but they were out so i got in a hurry and used oak.  For some reason the grain didn't show up as i anticipated (I wish now i would have chosen a darker stain).  

It was all pretty straight forward.  I laid the veneer on the dash in glue and after it dried  trimmed around the edge with a router with the bit they use to cut formica counter top edges.  The guage holes were most tedious.  I cross split them in the middle then trimmed around the inside with a sharp blade.  Of course then I had to cut out the glove box area carefully in order to use the remaining piece to cover the glove box door.  

I'm happy with the result.  It's a huge improvement over before but I wish I'd taken more time to experiment with a differant grain and darker stain.

gary n

From auprichard at comcast.net  Fri Dec 11 06:07:07 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 08:07:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] seats refinishing?
In-Reply-To: <752589.45541.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <752589.45541.qm@web65306.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EAF8B23227BF40ADBCA7455D01127251@DCH6RFC1>

List:

Does anyone have the name of someone who could restore / refinish the seats
from my TR250?  I'm in the New England area and it would be ideal to have
someone local, but I'm not averse to shipping them out to the right shop or
person.

Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Dec 11 07:23:56 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 09:23:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] (Fwd) Re:  seats refinishing?
Message-ID: <4B220FAC.16629.12A6FE02@localhost>

On 11 Dec 2009 at 8:07, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> Does anyone have the name of someone who could restore / refinish
> the seats from my TR250?  I'm in the New England area

This guy did a nice job putting a new top on my Spitfire.  In his 
shop were a bunch of high-end cars with upholstry work being done.  I 
intend to take him my GT6 seats eventually to see if he can create 
new side bolsters and seat pads.

A-1 Auto Upholstery
97 Linden Street, Waltham, MA 02452
(781) 891-6611
http://www.switchboard.com/waltham-ma/a-1-auto-upholstery-3834801101?KW=a1+upholstry&LO=waltham%2C+ma&SD=&PARMAPI=lbp%3Don%26Search%3DFind%2BIt%26C%3Da1%2Bupholstry%26XSL%3Doff%26L%3Dwaltham%252C%2Bma%26STYPE%3DS%26sessionId%3D4F81578F2FA58E5393B5CB2F7CE2ED4E%26PS%3D10%26AL%3D%26LID%3D0110138348%26display%3D1%26SRC%3Dswitchboard2%26streetaddress%3D97%2BLinden%2BStreet%26city%3DWaltham%26state%3DMA%26zip%3D02452%26map.x%3D212%26map.y%3D125%26level%3D8%26lat%3D042381499%26lng%3D-
071219636%26POI1lat%3D042381499%26POI1lng%3D-071219636%26POI1name%3DA-1%2BAuto%2BUpholstery

The shop is right next door to Excel Automotive which does mechanical 
work on interesting cars including real nice lbc's occasionally.  
Around back of the building is a shop which specializes in Italian 
cars, started by the mechanics who lost their positions at High 
Performance Motors when Alfa and Maserati pulled out years ago.  Oh, 
and the old High Performance Motors building is right next door too, 
now the home of Aston-Martin of New England, also a purveyor of 
Lotus.  Spend a few minutes looking around.

And if you're free, I live not much more than 5 minutes by foot from 
there.  It would be under 5 minutes except that the railroad track 
and the brook are in the way so you have to walk around to the 
bridge.


Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From michael.stenhouse at c2i.net  Fri Dec 11 10:05:16 2009
From: michael.stenhouse at c2i.net (STEN)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 18:05:16 +0100
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 SEAT ADJUSTMENT LEVERS
Message-ID: <009201ca7a84$1ef11bf0$5cd353d0$@stenhouse@c2i.net>

Hi Folks,

I have just bought 2 seats for my 1973 TR6.
However, these do not have seat back adjuster lever/handles.

>From what I can make out there should be 2 levers/handles on each of these
seats.

Can anybody help me regarding purchase of these items and if possible close
ups of handle/lever mounting details.

Best Regards,

From,

Michael 

In a wet South of Norway.

Congratulations to Barack Obama on receiving the Nobel Peace prize in Oslo
today. 

From globalrc at mindspring.com  Fri Dec 11 13:02:50 2009
From: globalrc at mindspring.com (Dan Dougherty Sr.)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:02:50 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Enkei wheels on a TR-6
Message-ID: <17342071.1260561770714.JavaMail.root@mswamui-andean.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I have a TR-6 with Enkehi wheels. They are the gold mesh type. There is a gold insert over the lug nuts with a chromed plastic insert in the middle. There is a set screw in the plastic insert. 

How do I get the center off without ruining the plastic center? I need to pull the wheels.

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Fri Dec 11 13:11:30 2009
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:11:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
Message-ID: <fac10b170912111211j716eab87w2a9803e7fab9d3b4@mail.gmail.com>

"My wife has never mentioned noise canceling headphones"
(that you're aware of.....)
Jim
=============================

> From: dave1massey at cs.com
>
> My wife has never mentioned noise canceling headphones but she does issue
> me blinders whenever we go to the beach.
>
> Dave

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Dec 11 13:13:40 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 15:13:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 SEAT ADJUSTMENT LEVERS
In-Reply-To: <009201ca7a84$1ef11bf0$5cd353d0$@stenhouse@c2i.net>
References: <009201ca7a84$1ef11bf0$5cd353d0$@stenhouse@c2i.net>
Message-ID: <8223E372CDFD4DBFBC416A17D1848156@BobPC>

Here's a good picture of them from the TRF Green Book 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ForumImages/SeatHandles.jpg

And here they are in the Moss Catalog http://tinyurl.com/yag2p93

Hope that helps

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "STEN" <michael.stenhouse at c2i.net>
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 12:05 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] 1973 TR6 SEAT ADJUSTMENT LEVERS

> Hi Folks,
>
> I have just bought 2 seats for my 1973 TR6.
> However, these do not have seat back adjuster lever/handles.
>
>>From what I can make out there should be 2 levers/handles on each of these
> seats.
>
> Can anybody help me regarding purchase of these items and if possible 
> close
> ups of handle/lever mounting details.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> From,
>
> Michael

From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Dec 11 15:03:56 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:03:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170912111211j716eab87w2a9803e7fab9d3b4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170912111211j716eab87w2a9803e7fab9d3b4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CC48C4F831DAFB-D04-4D1F@webmail-m066.sysops.aol.com>

 My wife says I don't pay attention to her.  At least that's what I thought
she said.

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Wallace <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Fri, Dec 11, 2009 2:11 pm
Subject: Noise canceling headphones



"My wife has never mentioned noise canceling headphones"
(that you're aware of.....)
Jim
=============================
From: dave1massey at cs.com

My wife has never mentioned noise canceling headphones but she does issue
me blinders whenever we go to the beach.

Dave

From auprichard at comcast.net  Fri Dec 11 16:53:19 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 18:53:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
In-Reply-To: <8CC48C4F831DAFB-D04-4D1F@webmail-m066.sysops.aol.com>
References: <fac10b170912111211j716eab87w2a9803e7fab9d3b4@mail.gmail.com>
	<8CC48C4F831DAFB-D04-4D1F@webmail-m066.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <41DA0AF9877E455AB7BDFD871CA6D4A1@DCH6RFC1>

The good news is my hardworking wife bought me a TR 250 to keep me amused
while I search for another job.

The bad news is she wants to know how much money I spend on it.

Reminds one of the definition of mixed emotions - when you see your
mother-in-law disappear over a cliff......in your newly restored
Triumph........

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 5:04 PM
To: grandfatherjim at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Noise canceling headphones

 My wife says I don't pay attention to her.  At least that's what I thought
she said.

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Wallace <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; dave1massey at cs.com
Sent: Fri, Dec 11, 2009 2:11 pm
Subject: Noise canceling headphones



"My wife has never mentioned noise canceling headphones"
(that you're aware of.....)
Jim
=============================
From: dave1massey at cs.com

My wife has never mentioned noise canceling headphones but she does issue
me blinders whenever we go to the beach.

Dave
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri Dec 11 19:07:41 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 21:07:41 EST
Subject: [TR] TR-non- judson supercharger
Message-ID: <cb9.612a2a63.385454ed@aol.com>

If anyone is interested in getting personally involve with a judson  
supercharger for a tr3 or a tr4,  a opportunity presents itself.   larry schwartz 
1960 tr3-a

From team.net at Daveola.com  Sat Dec 12 00:16:28 2009
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2009 23:16:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] Windshield tenax fastener fixing..
Message-ID: <E1NJMGk-000292-0b@davesource.com>

I've lost most of the tenax fastening 'pegs' from the right side of
my windshield because they've all gotten stripped (I think once one of
them left, it put too much stress on the remaining pegs).

I've thought about opening up the windshield and using the tenax pegs
that use nuts to hold them in place, but I'm having quite a time opening
up the windshield.  So before I pursue it further, (i.e., take it to a
windshield shop to see how they'd crack it open), does anyone know if
the backs of the pegs are accessible, or are they closed off?  (i.e.,
can I get a nut on the back of one)

And any other suggestions?  I've thought about just dumping some epoxy
or JB Weld in there to screw into, but I'm worried that it will make
it impossible to repair the windshield in the future.

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
----------- Never hit a man with glasses.  Hit him with a bat -------------

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec 12 06:46:16 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 08:46:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Windshield tenax fastener fixing..
In-Reply-To: <E1NJMGk-000292-0b@davesource.com>
References: <E1NJMGk-000292-0b@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <200912120846.16268.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 12 December 2009 02:16:28 am David Ljung Madison wrote:
> I've lost most of the tenax fastening 'pegs' from the right side of
> my windshield because they've all gotten stripped (I think once one of
> them left, it put too much stress on the remaining pegs).
> 
> I've thought about opening up the windshield and using the tenax pegs
> that use nuts to hold them in place, but I'm having quite a time opening
> up the windshield.  So before I pursue it further, (i.e., take it to a
> windshield shop to see how they'd crack it open), does anyone know if
> the backs of the pegs are accessible, or are they closed off?  (i.e.,
> can I get a nut on the back of one)
> 
> And any other suggestions?  I've thought about just dumping some epoxy
> or JB Weld in there to screw into, but I'm worried that it will make
> it impossible to repair the windshield in the future.
> 
> Dave
> 
Dave,

I had the left-most peg get stripped on my 3 and even though I had a new one, 
it would not catch since the threads in the frame are too thin.

So I tried some JB Weld and so far it is holding up just fine.

I had the top off a few times last summer and the peg seems to be holding up.

I dont think there would be space for a nut as it would most likely prevent 
the glass from seating correctly.

All I did was coat the peg threads in some JB Weld and placed it in the hole. 
Added a light clamping so not to crush the glass to hold the peg in place 
while the glue set. I used a liberal amount of glue and some did flow around 
the peg but I think that helps hold the peg to the frame.

Make sure you clean the area and peg as best you can first.

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 12 06:56:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 05:56:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] Windshield tenax fastener fixing..
In-Reply-To: <E1NJMGk-000292-0b@davesource.com>
Message-ID: <04.D7.01470.501A32B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I've thought about opening up the windshield and using the tenax pegs
> that use nuts to hold them in place,

There is no room inside for a nut.  The only viable repair option appears to
be the type of peg that goes all the way through the frame (originally used
only in aluminum frames), which will require that a tapered hole be added on
the back (and be visibly different than original).  These were NLA for a
long time, but TRF has recently had them reproduced.  P/N 553837
http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/58.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050

> And any other suggestions?

Epoxy isn't as strong as the original metal, which wasn't strong enough to
hold threads.  The only chance here appears to be if you can glue the peg
directly to the frame, which of course means the peg cannot be removed.  But
I've never had very good luck getting it to stick to chrome, so you may need
to find a method of roughing up or removing the chrome only under the flat
part of the peg (without damaging the surrounding chrome).

Another method of course would be to braze the holes up and re-drill/tap.
But you'll also need to grind both inner and outer surfaces flat again, and
have it rechromed.  Might be easier/cheaper to just find a good used frame.

Randall

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat Dec 12 12:16:39 2009
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 11:16:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] Windshield tenax fastener fixing..
References: <04.D7.01470.501A32B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CFBE994B212429C9C8D488E0C5BD728@Dell>

I was able to fix this problem using a thread-serter or nutter. Kind of a 
pop-it riveter tool only it inserts a threaded sleeve.  Habour freight has 
them http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1210 . 
I seem to recall I may have had to "work" the tool a bit because there is 
not very much depth, but that insert is holding as tight as any of the other 
studs and it's been quite afew years.  It worked for me. maybe some of the 
frames are different, but on mine there is enough room for the insert.
Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'David Ljung Madison'" <team.net at Daveola.com>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2009 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Windshield tenax fastener fixing..


>> I've thought about opening up the windshield and using the tenax pegs
>> that use nuts to hold them in place,
>
> There is no room inside for a nut.  The only viable repair option appears 
> to
> be the type of peg that goes all the way through the frame (originally 
> used
> only in aluminum frames), which will require that a tapered hole be added 
> on
> the back (and be visibly different than original).  These were NLA for a
> long time, but TRF has recently had them reproduced.  P/N 553837
> http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/58.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050
>
>> And any other suggestions?
>
> Epoxy isn't as strong as the original metal, which wasn't strong enough to
> hold threads.  The only chance here appears to be if you can glue the peg
> directly to the frame, which of course means the peg cannot be removed. 
> But
> I've never had very good luck getting it to stick to chrome, so you may 
> need
> to find a method of roughing up or removing the chrome only under the flat
> part of the peg (without damaging the surrounding chrome).
>
> Another method of course would be to braze the holes up and re-drill/tap.
> But you'll also need to grind both inner and outer surfaces flat again, 
> and
> have it rechromed.  Might be easier/cheaper to just find a good used 
> frame.
>
> Randall

From lherault at bu.edu  Sat Dec 12 14:40:54 2009
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 16:40:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Windshield tenax fastener fixing..
Message-ID: <002501ca7b73$c8e05140$5aa0f3c0$@edu>

Most epoxies will not stand up to a lot of heat.  I would think that if you
epoxied them in and had to remove them, a small well shaped and well aimed
torch flame or maybe a big soldering iron would destroy the bond
sufficiently to remove them.  I've used JB weld to re-create threads as part
of repairs to antique (wind-up) phonographs.  If you clean one surface, such
as the inside of the windshield hole, and then clean and lightly oil the
threads of the new stud, you will be able to unscrew it.  Having said that,
I agree that the JB won't be as strong as the metal and you may have better
luck by actually bonding the pin entirely. 

Ron L 

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Sat Dec 12 14:49:19 2009
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 13:49:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <3B4C3D7468634C8680E09BCB32C51994@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20091209134517.ABN55559@ms08.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<3B4C3D7468634C8680E09BCB32C51994@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <000001ca7b74$f5dd6330$e1982990$@rr.com>

I don't quite understand why it's illegal to wear headphones while driving?
Aren't deaf people allowed to drive? I never took a hearing test at the DMV.
Having a no-hands cell phone plug in your ear is OK. The guys driving around
with jigawatt sonic blasters in their cars are OK, but driving with earplugs
isn't? 

Something's wrong here.

Johnnie



> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
> Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 11:38 AM
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
> 
> > Negative noise?  How does that work?  Does it suck noise out
> > of the environment to make things quieter?  If it did, how
> > would find it at all?
> 
> I don't know, but I sure love my noise-cancelling earphones.  The
> difference
> when you flip the switch for the noise-cancelling feature is really
> remarkable.
> 
> But of course I don't use them while driving, that would be illegal.
> 
> -- Randall
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sat Dec 12 14:53:26 2009
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:53:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Side curtain mounts
Message-ID: <EC4362EB-108F-4CF1-A99D-E0B8DACC3FB9@cox.net>

I have owned this 1960 TR3A for a little over 5 years and because I live in
Phoenix the Side curtains and the top have been wrapped in thick towels &
stored under a bed.  I only remember which bed at this point because I had to
move the top to find some Christmas decorations.  :-)

My question is has any one made an insert or a cover for the side curtain
attach point at the front of the door.  When ever I am cruising I pull my left
leg up & lean it on the front of the door & that attachi point digs right into
the side of my knee.

I was thinking about making up a small padded piece that will fit in the
bottom notch & attach to the door with a Dzus fastener.

Any advice

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sat Dec 12 15:41:28 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 17:41:28 EST
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
Message-ID: <c1c.6d12d263.38557618@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/11/2009 6:36:37 PM Central Standard Time, 
auprichard at comcast.net writes: 
> The good news is my hardworking wife bought me a TR 250 to keep me amused
> while I search for another job.
> 
> The bad news is she wants to know how much money I spend on it.
> 
> Reminds one of the definition of mixed emotions - when you see your
> mother-in-law disappear over a cliff......in your newly restored
> Triumph........
> 

My wife used to resent the time I spent working on my cars until her sister 
divorced her philandering husband.  After that she's just happy I'm in the 
garage and not the bar.

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 12 15:53:03 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:53:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <000001ca7b74$f5dd6330$e1982990$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <77.BC.01470.FCE142B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I don't quite understand why it's illegal to wear headphones 
> while driving?

It's the law in most states, AFAIK, can't wear headphones that cover both
ears unless you are also wearing a helmet.  Doesn't necessarily make sense
to me, but common sense and the law are frequently strange bedfellows.

> Aren't deaf people allowed to drive? 

Never heard of any restriction on driving while deaf.  As long as you're not
wearing headphones <G>

> I never took a hearing test at the DMV.

They gave you written instructions for the driving test?

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Dec 12 16:39:34 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:39:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
In-Reply-To: <c1c.6d12d263.38557618@cs.com>
References: <c1c.6d12d263.38557618@cs.com>
Message-ID: <200912121839.34577.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 12 December 2009 05:41:28 pm Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> In a message dated 12/11/2009 6:36:37 PM Central Standard Time,
> 
> auprichard at comcast.net writes:
> > The good news is my hardworking wife bought me a TR 250 to keep me amused
> > while I search for another job.
> >
> > The bad news is she wants to know how much money I spend on it.
> >
> > Reminds one of the definition of mixed emotions - when you see your
> > mother-in-law disappear over a cliff......in your newly restored
> > Triumph........
> 
> My wife used to resent the time I spent working on my cars until her sister
> divorced her philandering husband.  After that she's just happy I'm in the
> garage and not the bar.
> 
> Dave
> 
>

Dave,

Maybe TW should have put his spare time restoring a few Triumphs over the 
years. He has the $ and seems to have a lot of energy!
Couldn't resist.


Now that the kids are all gone, my wife really looks forward to the drives 
with the top down in the summer. The only grief I get is when the credit card 
bill is on the high side. But once my 3rd and final restoration is complete, 
that should end.

Bob

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Sat Dec 12 16:43:45 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 23:43:45 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Calling Brian Jones
Message-ID: <704802.29907.qm@web28314.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Brian

Can you contact me off-list, please? Think I've found something that
might amuse you!

Cheers, Jonmac

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat Dec 12 16:54:30 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 18:54:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] muffler supplier........randall??
In-Reply-To: <77.BC.01470.FCE142B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <000001ca7b74$f5dd6330$e1982990$@rr.com>
	<77.BC.01470.FCE142B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <GPu51d00E5K6Zm805Pu5wT@charter.net>

At 05:53 PM 12/12/2009, Randall wrote:
> > I don't quite understand why it's illegal to wear headphones
> > while driving?
>
>It's the law in most states, AFAIK, can't wear headphones that cover both
>ears unless you are also wearing a helmet.

Applicable bit of Georgia law:

  40-6-250.  Wearing device which impairs hearing or vision

    No person shall operate a motor vehicle while wearing a headset 
or headphone which would impair such person's ability to hear... 
provided, however, that a person may wear a headset or headphone for 
communication purposes only while operating a motorcycle.

So, you might argue that open headphones don't impair your ability to 
hear, at least no more than you could hear in a closed vehicle with 
the radio volume set to 11.   Around here, though, I expect you would 
have to be run over by a fire truck with sirens and horn blazing 
before you would get prosecuted.

To bring this thread full circle...My earbuds are open on the back, 
but I like the sound of the stock muffler, as supplied by TRF some 
years ago.  I took the radio out of the car.

> > I never took a hearing test at the DMV.
>
>They gave you written instructions for the driving test?


I bet it's an ADA requirement.



Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Dec 13 07:13:32 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 06:13:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuild
Message-ID: <4B24F68C.6000200@gmail.com>

The time has come.  I expect to be moving to  place where it gets colder 
at night and actually has snow in the winter.  I'm thinking that side 
curtains would be a useful  item.

Mine need to be recovered and no longer fit.  When I rebuilt the car I 
replaced both doors (rust through holes) with good condition used doors 
and installed a Moss interior kit.  When I went to replace the side 
curtain mounting brackets I discovered that the side curtains no longer 
fit.  There was not quite enough space between the side curtain and the 
inside mounting arms to fit the door and interior panels.  I also 
discovered that the steel mounting arms were stronger than I and not 
bendable my me.

I figure recovering them does me no good if they don't fit but I don't 
know how to make them fit.  Are the mounting arms bolted on to the frame 
and is the adjustment a natter of adding or subtracting shims?

How do I make them fit?????

Also, does anyone have any experience with TRF's rebuilt side curtains 
in red?  My car is signal red (original factory colour) and my hard top 
will be repainted red.  I'm just wondering if the red in red side 
curtains harmonizes with signal red or clashes.  If it clashes I guess I 
would go with black.  They are currently white to go with the white hard 
top.

So how do I get the side curtains to fit my car????

Teriann

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Dec 13 07:56:41 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 08:56:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4B24F68C.6000200@gmail.com>
References: <4B24F68C.6000200@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1AEFB1B1CC384CD9978262EAAD4288FC@ranteer.local>

there was a guy who modified his side curtains by cutting off the mounting 
brackets and rebolting them on, and using gaskets on the top.  then he could 
fit them in the car.  I think that process would solve two of your problems 
(making them fit either on or off).  hopefully he's listening . . .

--------------------------------------------------
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 2009 8:13 AM
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuild

> The time has come.  I expect to be moving to  place where it gets colder 
> at night and actually has snow in the winter.  I'm thinking that side 
> curtains would be a useful  item.
>
> Mine need to be recovered and no longer fit.  When I rebuilt the car I 
> replaced both doors (rust through holes) with good condition used doors 
> and installed a Moss interior kit.  When I went to replace the side 
> curtain mounting brackets I discovered that the side curtains no longer 
> fit.  There was not quite enough space between the side curtain and the 
> inside mounting arms to fit the door and interior panels.  I also 
> discovered that the steel mounting arms were stronger than I and not 
> bendable my me.
>
> I figure recovering them does me no good if they don't fit but I don't 
> know how to make them fit.  Are the mounting arms bolted on to the frame 
> and is the adjustment a natter of adding or subtracting shims?
>
> How do I make them fit?????
>
> Also, does anyone have any experience with TRF's rebuilt side curtains in 
> red?  My car is signal red (original factory colour) and my hard top will 
> be repainted red.  I'm just wondering if the red in red side curtains 
> harmonizes with signal red or clashes.  If it clashes I guess I would go 
> with black.  They are currently white to go with the white hard top.
>
> So how do I get the side curtains to fit my car????
>
> Teriann

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Dec 13 08:38:42 2009
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 10:38:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Free spinning fan hub
Message-ID: <9595A6F768AF4BB4ADE703E6619EDE0E@AlexPC>

Quick question with my 72 TR6. Just noticed that the fan and fan hub is free
spinning, along with the pulley for the AC. Crank is tight with the
alternator, water pump belt as well. I don't have time today to really take
time with it, but my first blush guess is the keyway slot on the fan hub is
gone. My next statement is, I cannot remmeber if there is even a slot or is it
just bolted. Any input appreciated!
Alex
72 TR6
59 TR3A

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Dec 13 08:47:45 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 07:47:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuild
In-Reply-To: <D3.33.01470.7C0052B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <D3.33.01470.7C0052B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4B250CA1.3060701@gmail.com>

Randall wrote:
> Alas, the mounting arms are welded to the sidecurtain frame; the only means
> of adjustment is bending.  TRF's suggestion is to bend the (stripped) frame
> to fit, and then have it recovered.  With the vinyl out of the way, you can
> use a BFH, pipe etc. to help with the adjustment process. 
>   
Geezzzzz, I hate using the "use a monster hammer to adjust" method!!!

Especially when the arms are thick steel.  I guess I'll cut off the 
vinyl and look at the connection.

Not happy but wanting side curtains that fit. 

Teriann

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Dec 13 09:10:50 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 11:10:50 EST
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
Message-ID: <ccb.5e073b56.38566c0a@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/12/2009 5:37:39 PM Central Standard Time, 
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: 
> Now that the kids are all gone, my wife really looks forward to the 
> drives 
> with the top down in the summer. The only grief I get is when the credit 
> card 
> bill is on the high side. But once my 3rd and final restoration is 
> complete, 
> that should end.
> 

Isn't that what you said about the second and final restoration?

;-)

Dave

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Sun Dec 13 09:19:07 2009
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 16:19:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4B24F68C.6000200@gmail.com>
References: <4B24F68C.6000200@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <999860365-1260721127-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1266974462-@bda549.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Teriann when I added my HT and installed my new interior. I positioned my frame in the space that best fit the opening. We cut off the existing mounting arms and remade new ones with the same profile just slightly longer. We then repeated the process and tack welded the new arms in the correct location. However I still had a very small gap on the leading edge of the frame near the windshield. To eliminate the gap I welded a 1/8 inch piece of flat stock to the edge of the frame. Doing this enabled me to completely center the frame.  

A note of caution the soft top and the Hard top fit are completely different. To accommodate the fit difference I first fitted the frame for the hard top, for its opening is taller. To fit the soft top I positioned the door plates to accommodate the HT.  Each of the plates are slotted at their mounting point.  For me I had to place the plate all the way to the top so that the screw holding the plate was at the bottom of the slot. This would then allow me to loosen the screws and drop the plate. When you loosen and drop the plate the screw will remain in its original position.  This will provide about a 1/4 in drop in frame. If your frame requires an additional drop you can elongate the slots in the plate.   Keep in mind that you need to maintain a consist gap around the opening when fitting the HT, for when the frame is covered the space will then be correct.  I was very pleased with the work performed on the frames by the roadster factory 

I hope I didn't confuse you 
Ronnie  Babbitt
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

-----Original Message-----
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 06:13:32 
To: Triumph List<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuild

The time has come.  I expect to be moving to  place where it gets colder 
at night and actually has snow in the winter.  I'm thinking that side 
curtains would be a useful  item.

Mine need to be recovered and no longer fit.  When I rebuilt the car I 
replaced both doors (rust through holes) with good condition used doors 
and installed a Moss interior kit.  When I went to replace the side 
curtain mounting brackets I discovered that the side curtains no longer 
fit.  There was not quite enough space between the side curtain and the 
inside mounting arms to fit the door and interior panels.  I also 
discovered that the steel mounting arms were stronger than I and not 
bendable my me.

I figure recovering them does me no good if they don't fit but I don't 
know how to make them fit.  Are the mounting arms bolted on to the frame 
and is the adjustment a natter of adding or subtracting shims?

How do I make them fit?????

Also, does anyone have any experience with TRF's rebuilt side curtains 
in red?  My car is signal red (original factory colour) and my hard top 
will be repainted red.  I'm just wondering if the red in red side 
curtains harmonizes with signal red or clashes.  If it clashes I guess I 
would go with black.  They are currently white to go with the white hard 
top.

So how do I get the side curtains to fit my car????

Teriann

_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Dec 13 10:12:44 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 12:12:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
In-Reply-To: <ccb.5e073b56.38566c0a@cs.com>
References: <ccb.5e073b56.38566c0a@cs.com>
Message-ID: <200912131212.44457.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

 complete,
> > that should end.
> 
> Isn't that what you said about the second and final restoration?

> 
> Dave
> 
Dave,

Did I really say that? 

I am sure I did. It was a long 2 1/2 years in the making.

The current project is in its 2nd year and should be complete on or before 31 
July 2010.

If I said it once, I said it 100 times.. I can't believe how much work it 
takes to bring a basket-case back from the grave.

But at least the current project has convinced me that the body is just too 
old and broken down to do all that back breaking work again. Both my back and 
knees have suffered through the last restoration and I still have to paint it 
and put it all back together!

But " Idle hands are The Devil's workshop ( or playground)".

Bob

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Dec 13 10:25:09 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 10:25:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] side curtain rebuild
In-Reply-To: <4B24F68C.6000200@gmail.com>
References: <4B24F68C.6000200@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A6D22367A1D14D83A6BE58E865617ACA@bboffice>

TeriAnn,

<<My car is signal red (original factory colour) and my hard top will be
repainted red.  I'm just wondering if the red in red side curtains
harmonizes with signal red or clashes.  If it clashes I guess I would go
with black.  They are currently white to go with the white hard top.>>

Having never had the side curtains on my car, still in the Amco packaging as
they came to me from the PO, I will not comment.  But, having tried to match
the red for my wires to a signal red car I will say you may never get it
just right, unless you get the side curtains covered then have your painter
match to them.  I think traditionally the side curtains are to match the
soft top.

BTW, my car is now black(original factory colour) with red interior and the
red wire look fantastic!

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Dec 13 15:11:31 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 17:11:31 EST
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
Message-ID: <cd6.5bd0580d.3856c093@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2009 11:31:20 AM Central Standard Time, 
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: 
> Did I really say that? 
> 
> I am sure I did. It was a long 2 1/2 years in the making.
> 
> The current project is in its 2nd year and should be complete on or before 
> 31 
> July 2010.
> 
> If I said it once, I said it 100 times.. I can't believe how much work it 
> takes to bring a basket-case back from the grave.
> 
> But at least the current project has convinced me that the body is just 
> too 
> old and broken down to do all that back breaking work again. Both my back 
> and 
> knees have suffered through the last restoration and I still have to paint 
> it 
> and put it all back together!
> 
> But " Idle hands are The Devil's workshop ( or playground)".
> 
My first two resorations (TR6 and TR8) took me 1 1/2 years.  This TR3 was 
started about 4 years ago and it is still not finished.  But it is also the 
most thurough restoration I've done.

I need to get it finished.

Dave

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sun Dec 13 16:06:38 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 18:06:38 EST
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
Message-ID: <bc0.6843d629.3856cd7e@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2009 5:31:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:



My first two resorations (TR6 and TR8) took me 1 1/2  years.  This TR3 was 
started about 4 years ago and it is still not  finished.  But it is also 
the 
most thurough restoration I've  done.

I need to get it finished.
 




I have always admired Dave Massey's selection (TR3, TR6  & TR8), as those 
models represent IMO the best of the three body  styles during Triumph 
production from 1953 to the end in  1981.
Lou Meteko
Auburn, Indiana

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Sun Dec 13 16:54:01 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 18:54:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
In-Reply-To: <bc0.6843d629.3856cd7e@aol.com>
References: <bc0.6843d629.3856cd7e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30912131554t59b3c9d8h8d67dbb9b7f68a83@mail.gmail.com>

The TR4 was such an avant garde move after the three, and the TR6 an
'adjustment' to the TR4 shape (same doors, windshield, and similar
silhouette) I think he 3 to 4 was a braver step than the 250/5 to 6 move.

... but they are all great cars ...

Brian

..I have always admired Dave Massey's selection (TR3, TR6  & TR8), as those
> models represent IMO the best of the three body  styles during Triumph
> production from 1953 to the end in  1981.
> Lou Meteko
> Auburn, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 14 06:42:07 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 08:42:07 EST
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
Message-ID: <14f6.3e09719.38579aaf@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2009 5:33:15 PM Central Standard Time, 
Loumetelko at aol.com writes: 
> I have always admired Dave Massey's selection (TR3, TR6  &TR8), as those 
> models represent IMO the best of the three body  styles during Triumph 
> production from 1953 to the end in  1981.
> Lou Meteko
> 

Well, thanks.

But after living for two weeks out of the boot of a TR8 (two of us) the 
Stag trunk is starting to look really, really attractive.

;-)

Dave

From dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 14 07:04:15 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 09:04:15 EST
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
Message-ID: <18e3.fb97ef5.38579fdf@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/13/2009 6:16:36 PM Central Standard Time, 
tr4zest at gmail.com writes: 
> The TR4 was such an avant garde move after the three, and the TR6 an
> 'adjustment' to the TR4 shape (same doors, windshield, and similar
> silhouette) I think he 3 to 4 was a braver step than the 250/5 to 6 move.

The TR6 is the ultimate refinement on the TR2 that started it all.  The 
front suspension changed a little though out the intervening years but is 
basically the same.

It started with the TR2 adding front disc brakes in 57.  In 62 they changed 
to the Michelotti body style adding roll up windows, dash level ventilation 
and rack and pinion steering.  Then they changed to the 6 cylinder in 68.  
Then the Karman body rework in 69 completed the evolution.

The change to the TR7 was a total clean sheet effort.  In many ways it more 
resembled the MGB than any Triumph that came before.  In fact, Harris Mann, 
the designer, worked for Morris.  There was discussion about whether to 
introduce this new car (code name: Bullet) as an MG or a Triumph.  It was 
decided to retire the TR6 due to the high production costs.  It was a 
body-on-frame design with a lot of little panels that required assembly.  The Wedge, 
like the MG, was designed to use fewer, larger panels.  Panels that were 
outside the scope of the punch presses Standard had available when the earlier TR 
series were developed.  This made for more economical assembly.

But I am wandering.

> 
> ... but they are all great cars ...

When asked which is my favourite I reply: Which of your children is your 
favourite?

;-)

Dave

From davidt at opentext.com  Mon Dec 14 08:35:48 2009
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 10:35:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] list of 10 greatest sports cars
Message-ID: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42BEE671D@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>

There is a TR on there J



http://www.ctv.ca/gallery/html/sports_cars_20091212/photo_0.html





regards

David Templeton

'59 TR3a

'74 Spitsix

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 14 10:06:01 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 11:06:01 -0600
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
In-Reply-To: <18e3.fb97ef5.38579fdf@cs.com>
References: <18e3.fb97ef5.38579fdf@cs.com>
Message-ID: <648C659723F84098AEF3D9FA05FB0741@ranteer.local>

my favorite is the long door tr2

my son's favorite is the tr250, although if he knew about the tr5 he'd 
choose that.

--------------------------------------------------
From: <dave1massey at cs.com>
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 8:04 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Noise canceling headphones

> In a message dated 12/13/2009 6:16:36 PM Central Standard Time,
> tr4zest at gmail.com writes:
>> The TR4 was such an avant garde move after the three, and the TR6 an
>> 'adjustment' to the TR4 shape (same doors, windshield, and similar
>> silhouette) I think he 3 to 4 was a braver step than the 250/5 to 6 move.
>
> The TR6 is the ultimate refinement on the TR2 that started it all.  The
> front suspension changed a little though out the intervening years but is
> basically the same.
>
> It started with the TR2 adding front disc brakes in 57.  In 62 they 
> changed
> to the Michelotti body style adding roll up windows, dash level 
> ventilation
> and rack and pinion steering.  Then they changed to the 6 cylinder in 68.
> Then the Karman body rework in 69 completed the evolution.
>
> The change to the TR7 was a total clean sheet effort.  In many ways it 
> more
> resembled the MGB than any Triumph that came before.  In fact, Harris 
> Mann,
> the designer, worked for Morris.  There was discussion about whether to
> introduce this new car (code name: Bullet) as an MG or a Triumph.  It was
> decided to retire the TR6 due to the high production costs.  It was a
> body-on-frame design with a lot of little panels that required assembly. 
> The Wedge,
> like the MG, was designed to use fewer, larger panels.  Panels that were
> outside the scope of the punch presses Standard had available when the 
> earlier TR
> series were developed.  This made for more economical assembly.
>
> But I am wandering.
>
>>
>> ... but they are all great cars ...
>
> When asked which is my favourite I reply: Which of your children is your
> favourite?
>
> ;-)
>
> Dave
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ronald.griffing at comcast.net  Mon Dec 14 10:24:58 2009
From: ronald.griffing at comcast.net (Ronald Griffing)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 09:24:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] HF Tow Bar
Message-ID: <001501ca7ce2$64123b50$2c36b1f0$@griffing@comcast.net>

Some of you may remember me from a few years ago when I pulled CT1550L from
out of a barn. I'm getting ready to restart the restoration of CT1550L.  It
was returned to storage for a few years while we moved.  I need to move the
car about 15 miles from storage to the house.  Have any of you used HS's
folding tow bar?  

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=94696 

I will need to move it few times, body shop, DMV VIN certification, and
such.  Is this bar a viable option, or should I rent something like U-Haul's
Auto Transporter trailer? What other recommendations do you have for moving
it?

Ron Griffing
'62 TR-4 CT1550L
'62 Morris Minor Sedan
http://home.comcast.net/~ronald.griffing/tr/index_tr4.htm

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Mon Dec 14 11:00:54 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 19:00:54 +0100
Subject: [TR] list of 10 greatest sports cars
References: <A5E4DAC12880AD45AA023CA387C7F42BEE671D@OTWLMX04.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <398EE4C71BE648A9B97AE968998DCAFD@Study>

Hard to quarrel with the cars chosen especially the BMW 328, but I would 
like to have seen one of the WO Bentleys. Perhaps the original Red Label 3 
litre model. Also one of my choices would be the 1937 SS100 Jaguar, possibly 
one of the prettiest traditional sports cars ever built, and the forerunner 
of the post war XK series. Honourable mention also to the Alfa Romeo 1750 
and it's successors.

YM will undoubtedly V.

Early Christmas and New Year greetings to all our readers!

David Brister
1967 TR4A 


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 1654 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Dec 14 11:10:47 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 10:10:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wheel Arch Vinyl Trim Installation
Message-ID: <458865.45383.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am finally getting around to installing the vinyl trim on the rear
wheel arches in my TR3A. Are there any specific tricks to getting it to go
smoothly and without wrinkles? I have some 3M  trim adhesive in a spray can
that I plan on using. I was going to locate the trim panel at the beading and
glue that down first. Then I was going to use a hair dryer to keep it all
pliable and work the inside wheel arch down first, followed my the top of the
wheel arch.
     It looks like getting the beading part part down flat without wrinkles is
the tough part.
     Any advice would be appreciated.
 
     Bill in Tehachapi

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Mon Dec 14 11:21:17 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 10:21:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Removing TR3 Fuel Tank Sealer
Message-ID: <362935.72752.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I decided to remove the old MOSS fuel take sealer and prep the tank for
KBS sealer. First I used methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) to remove the old white
coating. It just sort of turned it to goo. It did get soft though. After that,
I put crushed pea gravel in the tank and rocked it back and forth. After many
hours, the tank was mjostly scraped clean. I tried to get the residual coating
our with paint remover. Not much results there. I rinsed out all of the goo
with lacquer thinner. I then tried some muriatic acid to remove any rust or
remaining coating. The tank looked great. I then followed KBS's instructions
with a de-greasing wash, an acid etch/rust blaster, drying and then the KBS
coating. The tank looks great. It had better, because I worked on it for two
days.
     The KBS coatings stated "There is no known solvent for removing cured KBS
tank coating". That should do the trick.
     If I had known how long it would take and how semi-questionable my
results would be (I never got 100% of the old sealer out), I probably would
have just bought a new aluminum tank...
     In hindsight, I didn't do a acid etching with the MOSS coating 13 years
ago. I just washed it out with muriatic acid followed by a wash with a baking
sodawater solution & drying before applying the MOSS coating. Maybe if I had
it would have adhered better with a etching solution first.
 
     Bill in Tehachapi

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 14 11:33:56 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 10:33:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] HF Tow Bar
In-Reply-To: <001501ca7ce2$64123b50$2c36b1f0$@griffing@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E6.A7.01550.415862B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Have any of you used HS's folding tow bar?  

I've not used that particular one, but I have a similar bar from Reese.  I
used it exactly once to move my TR3A, and wished I hadn't.  It puts a great
deal of force into the front end of the car, in a location not particularly
designed to take it.  I bolted it on in place of the front bumper (no way is
the bumper blade strong enough, IMO), and the frame extensions flexed so
much that it tore up the fresh paint, and damaged the sheet metal.

15 miles is probably OK, but note that you should disconnect the driveshaft
when flat towing over longer distances.  The gearbox relies on splash
lubrication from the countershaft, but the countershaft doesn't turn when
towing in neutral.  If the bearing between the input and main shafts gets
hot, it may dramatically shorten the life of the mainshaft even if it
doesn't  seize outright

> What other recommendations do you 
> have for moving it?

A 2-wheel tow dolly from U-Haul worked well for me, and saved a few $$ over
the full trailer.  But the trailer is still preferable, IMO, especially if
the tires, suspension, etc. are in unknown condition.  It also avoids having
to disconnect the driveshaft (which is still necessary with the dolly).

Note that your DMV may be willing to give you a 'one day pass', to allow
bringing the car in for inspection under it's own power.

Another thought, you might make contact with the local club and see if
anyone has a trailer or tow dolly available for use.

Yet another, try talking to a local independent tow operator.  If business
is slow and you can schedule in advance, he may give you a bargain rate on a
flatbed.

Randall

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Dec 14 12:54:44 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:54:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] What is this part?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1260817201.6829.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1260817201.6829.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <855F381F-F9A9-469F-B678-E9BB8DE24EC3@telus.net>

http://tiny.cc/EWn63

It's a mystery to me...

From darrellw at ipns.com  Mon Dec 14 13:23:59 2009
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:23:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] What is this part?
In-Reply-To: <855F381F-F9A9-469F-B678-E9BB8DE24EC3@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1260817201.6829.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<855F381F-F9A9-469F-B678-E9BB8DE24EC3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <54B39C06-927F-4ABD-9C71-95EEC6823198@ipns.com>

Maybe #55 in this illustration:

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29131


On Dec 14, 2009, at 11:54 AM, Don Spence wrote:

> http://tiny.cc/EWn63
> 
> It's a mystery to me...
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive



-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 14 13:24:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:24:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
In-Reply-To: <18e3.fb97ef5.38579fdf@cs.com>
References: <18e3.fb97ef5.38579fdf@cs.com>
Message-ID: <6ADAEEA71FE8414B91979D22934B8DAE@jdnet.deere.com>

> Then the Karman body rework in 69 completed the evolution.

Or de-evolution, depending on your point of view.
<G>

BTW, TR2 production stopped in 1955; it was the TR3 that got front disc
brakes, in 1956.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 14 13:25:58 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:25:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
In-Reply-To: <14f6.3e09719.38579aaf@cs.com>
References: <14f6.3e09719.38579aaf@cs.com>
Message-ID: <CB36A8839F1646CD96A11B60291D7102@jdnet.deere.com>

> But after living for two weeks out of the boot of a TR8 (two 
> of us) the Stag trunk is starting to look really, really attractive.

Having a back seat is handy sometimes too.

That said, wanna trade ?
<G>

-- Randall  

From loumetelko at aol.com  Mon Dec 14 13:30:42 2009
From: loumetelko at aol.com (loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 15:30:42 EST
Subject: [TR] list of 10 greatest sports cars
Message-ID: <f3af.5df6b0b1.3857fa72@aol.com>

_http://www.ctv.ca/gallery/html/sports_cars_20091212/photo_0.html_ 
(http://www.ctv.ca/gallery/html/sports_cars_20091212/photo_0.html) 


The TR2 listed as part of the 10  Greatest is the beloved TS1.  That 
particular photograph was taken in 2003  when Joe Richards formally reintroduced 
TS1 to its adoring fans at the TRA  National held in Auburn, Indiana.  In the 
background is the Dekalb County  courthouse located in Auburn.  I should 
know all this because I was  standing just to the left of Brett Johnson when 
he took the photo.
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 14 13:41:22 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 12:41:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] What is this part?
In-Reply-To: <855F381F-F9A9-469F-B678-E9BB8DE24EC3@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1260817201.6829.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<855F381F-F9A9-469F-B678-E9BB8DE24EC3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <033B01890A6D4CA5BD215B6C19DAAED1@jdnet.deere.com>

It's the front cover for a TR2-6 gearbox, the part the throwout bearing
carrier rides on.  Photo is kind of confusing, as it has been coated in
Cosmolene or similar, which has bridged the opening where the input shaft
would normally protrude.

Ad claims it's the later, shorter version, for use with the TR4A-TR6
'diaphragm' clutch.  Hard to tell from the photo though, it kind of looks
like the earlier, longer unit to me.  But if so, it can be easily modified
with a hacksaw.

-- Randall  

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Dec 14 14:02:25 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:02:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] What is this part?
In-Reply-To: <855F381F-F9A9-469F-B678-E9BB8DE24EC3@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1260817201.6829.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<855F381F-F9A9-469F-B678-E9BB8DE24EC3@telus.net>
Message-ID: <4B26A7E1.8000502@bradakis.com>

It is the front cover that goes over the transmission input shaft
and holds the throwout bearing.

mjb.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Mon Dec 14 15:06:45 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 15:06:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wheel Arch Vinyl Trim Installation
In-Reply-To: <458865.45383.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <458865.45383.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0912141406x5d606d6cq984d9d025741bbd2@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/14/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:
> It looks like getting the beading part part down flat without wrinkles
> is the tough part.

As I recall, I used a layer of thin foam (maybe 1/8" thick and not
dense, could practically see thru it) to create just enough padding
that the seam/beading sat well.  Another owner told me he sued an old
baby blanket in a similar fashion.

Geo

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 14 15:34:56 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 17:34:56 EST
Subject: [TR] Noise canceling headphones
Message-ID: <cab.580e81d8.38581790@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/14/2009 2:52:11 PM Central Standard Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >Then the Karman body rework in 69 completed the evolution.
> 
> Or de-evolution, depending on your point of view.
> <G>

It is, after all, a matter of opinion.  There are aspects of each that I 
prefer over the other.

> 
> BTW, TR2 production stopped in 1955; it was the TR3 that got front disc
> brakes, in 1956.

I was giving the reader's digest version.  As it was, it was a bit 
rambling.

And that was late 56 as I recall.

Dave

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Dec 14 15:46:08 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 22:46:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wheel Arch Vinyl Trim Installation
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0912141406x5d606d6cq984d9d025741bbd2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <73966747.1318831260830768155.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Mark Macy at Mac y's Garage 
http://www.macysgarage.com/ 
has a thin padding kit that he sells just for this purpose. 
Tom 

On 12/14/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote: 
> It looks like getting the beading part part down flat without wrinkles 
> is the tough part. 

As I recall, I used a layer of thin foam (maybe 1/8" thick and not 
dense, could practically see thru it) to create just enough padding 
that the seam/beading sat well. Another owner told me he sued an old 
baby blanket in a similar fashion. 

Geo 

_______________________________________________ 

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
http://www.vtr.org 


Triumphs at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 


http://www.team.net/archive 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 14 16:14:03 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 15:14:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wheel Arch Vinyl Trim Installation
In-Reply-To: <73966747.1318831260830768155.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <73966747.1318831260830768155.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <131272.28602.qm@web111604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Bill
while installing carpet in the trunk recently i got frustrated at the
contact cement use. one chance to get it right.
i found a product at home
depot called "premium indoor/outdoor carpet adhesive 6700" by Roberts. one
quart plastic tubs with green label. apply with spatula.
this stuff gave me
about 30 mins of set up time so i could move the carpet around and get it
right. drys completely overnight.
cost about 10.00
very satisfied with it.
I'm
sure it will work with the vinyl trim, but I'm not there yet..
Frank
To: Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
Cc: Triumphs
<triumphs at autox.team.net>; William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Sent: Mon,
December 14, 2009 2:46:08 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Wheel Arch Vinyl Trim
Installation

Mark Macy at Mac y's Garage 
http://www.macysgarage.com/ 
has a
thin padding kit that he sells just for this purpose. 
Tom 

On 12/14/09,
William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote: 
> It looks like getting the
beading part part down flat without wrinkles 
> is the tough part. 

As I
recall, I used a layer of thin foam (maybe 1/8" thick and not 
dense, could
practically see thru it) to create just enough padding 
that the seam/beading
sat well. Another owner told me he sued an old 
baby blanket in a similar
fashion. 

Geo 

_______________________________________________ 

Support
Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

This list supported in part by the
Vintage Triumph Register 
http://www.vtr.org 


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 


http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec  9 12:37:00 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 2009 14:37:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR Parts
Message-ID: <8CC471E1CA4C80E-6370-19186@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com>

I got a phone call out of the blue from a local guy who came across a cache of
TR6 and Spitfire parts from an estate.  I know nothing more.

Location: St. Louis

John Moriarty
314 348 8260

TR6 Parts Pre 73

Also Spitfire Parts including rebuilt engine.

From triumph.driver at gmail.com  Mon Dec 14 20:15:39 2009
From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 22:15:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wheel Arch Vinyl Trim Installation
Message-ID: <2594927D92EF46038A2B70C5CB11F1C3@chuck>

Bill,
 
You might check out this "How To" page from Macy's Garage.  It shows the
proper way to install the wheel arch covers.
 
http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/wheel_arch_covers.htm 
 
Chuck White
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A IRS
1970 GT6+ 

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Dec 14 21:25:03 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2009 21:25:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wheel Arch Vinyl Trim Installation
In-Reply-To: <458865.45383.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <458865.45383.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A8F78AFED16E463B902F1F3C90D8EDC8@bboffice>

Bill,
Looks like you have a lot of good advice, I would only add do NOT pad the
side of the wheel arch, only the top.
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 11:11 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR3 Wheel Arch Vinyl Trim Installation

     I am finally getting around to installing the vinyl trim on the rear
wheel arches in my TR3A. Are there any specific tricks to getting it to go
smoothly and without wrinkles? I have some 3M  trim adhesive in a spray can
that I plan on using. I was going to locate the trim panel at the beading
and glue that down first. Then I was going to use a hair dryer to keep it
all pliable and work the inside wheel arch down first, followed my the top
of the wheel arch.
     It looks like getting the beading part part down flat without wrinkles
is the tough part.
     Any advice would be appreciated.
 
     Bill in Tehachapi
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Tue Dec 15 07:01:32 2009
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 14:01:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] Revs and oil
Message-ID: <4C2DFE43-6D77-4804-8BCF-FFABD19B3E7C@tcd.ie>

Season greetings to all, I may be spending my holiday under the TR2. I was in
the garage trying to get my as of yet not on the road TR2 running better by
fiddling with timing and carb settings. For the first time since the re-build
I was revving out a bit over a half hour period. When I returned the next
morning I found a stream of engine oil all the way to the rear of the car
which appears to have come from the crank rear scroll seal. Is this terminal?
does it require engine out? Or (he asks optimistically) will this "settle
down" and will only happen while revving but not going anywhere.
Regards and fingers crossed

From trstreep at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 15 07:35:42 2009
From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 08:35:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Brian Jones
Message-ID: <KIEHKFKPJNJONEIJGKEDMEJBDKAA.trstreep@sbcglobal.net>

Sorry to bomb the entire list.
Brian Jones of the Delaware Valley Club, please contact me off list at your
convenience.

Bob Streepy
trstreep at sbcglobal.net

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 15 09:41:40 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 16:41:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Emachine.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W9566E27FE686EDFF3D18BE5880@phx.gbl>

A way to get those no longer available parts.

http://www.emachineshop.com/

Best regards,
Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Dec 15 10:20:02 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 12:20:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Revs and oil
In-Reply-To: <4C2DFE43-6D77-4804-8BCF-FFABD19B3E7C@tcd.ie>
References: <4C2DFE43-6D77-4804-8BCF-FFABD19B3E7C@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <A9A9C4A970DD411A96F059EE6A1C1A1B@DCH6RFC1>

"a stream" ?? Not a good sign, I'm afraid.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 9:02 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Revs and oil

Season greetings to all, I may be spending my holiday under the TR2. I was
in
the garage trying to get my as of yet not on the road TR2 running better by
fiddling with timing and carb settings. For the first time since the
re-build
I was revving out a bit over a half hour period. When I returned the next
morning I found a stream of engine oil all the way to the rear of the car
which appears to have come from the crank rear scroll seal. Is this
terminal?
does it require engine out? Or (he asks optimistically) will this "settle
down" and will only happen while revving but not going anywhere.
Regards and fingers crossed
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 15 10:32:38 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 09:32:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] Revs and oil
In-Reply-To: <4C2DFE43-6D77-4804-8BCF-FFABD19B3E7C@tcd.ie>
References: <4C2DFE43-6D77-4804-8BCF-FFABD19B3E7C@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <2100762700E5462DA87CF38DEC55A6D8@jdnet.deere.com>

> When I returned 
> the next morning I found a stream of engine oil all the way 
> to the rear of the car which appears to have come from the 
> crank rear scroll seal.

You might want to investigate that carefully John, it can sometimes be very
difficult to tell just where the leak did come from.  There are several
other locations at the rear of the engine that can leak oil down the back of
the block, where it looks like it comes from the seal.  For example, the
plugs in the cam bore & oil gallery.  I've even had a leak from the plug in
the back of the head run down and drip from the bellhousing, so it appeared
to be the rear seal.

Another thing to check would be that the road draft tube is open.

-- Randall  

From L1J1S at aol.com  Tue Dec 15 15:41:23 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 17:41:23 EST
Subject: [TR] TR - wires
Message-ID: <d30.5f94c55d.38596a93@aol.com>

list, i would like to duplicate a wiring loom from scratch. does anyone  
know where i can look to buy separate rolls of wires from?  larry  schwartz  

From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net  Tue Dec 15 15:54:24 2009
From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (Rod)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 14:54:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR - wires
In-Reply-To: <d30.5f94c55d.38596a93@aol.com>
References: <d30.5f94c55d.38596a93@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B2813A0.9040509@sbcglobal.net>

I am in the process right now of doing just that.  Check out British 
Wiring for all of you wiring .  They have all of the properly color 
coded wires in either cloth or plastic covering.

www.*britishwiring*.com

Rod Trunnell

L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> list, i would like to duplicate a wiring loom from scratch. does anyone  
> know where i can look to buy separate rolls of wires from?  larry  schwartz  
>
> _______________________________________________

From don at napanet.net  Tue Dec 15 19:47:06 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 18:47:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] A very ugly British car
Message-ID: <20091216025045.2ACDF24BA5E@mail.napanet.net>

I like the comment on the BaT website: "Nice legs, shame about the face."
A car this homely makes me very appreciative of the classic lines of 
an MG or TR.
Don


_____________________________________________________

Rare British Fiberglass: 1951 Martin Ford Special

$30k barely buys you a pair of shoes in Monaco, but we think that 
this interesting 1951 Martin Ford roadster would draw more attention 
in town than the housekeeper's latest Aston. This body was installed 
in place of the stodgy Ford bodies of the time and is propelled by an 
885cc 4-cylinder. Find it 
<http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=2&campid=5336491951&toolid=10001&customid=&ext=280437488768&item=280437488768>here 
on eBay in Monaco with a ~$31k Buy-It-Now. Special thanks to BaT 
reader Marc M. for this submission!


http://bringatrailer.com/2009/12/15/rare-british-fiberglass-1951-martin-ford-special/comment-page-1/#comment-136353


Ford-Martin Sports Special 1946 -1954 Fordson Sidevalve

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280437488768


>_________________________________________________________
>
>
>Don Scott
>Calistoga CA
>2001 Miata SE BRG
>1967 TR4A
>1962 MGA Mk II
>1967 MGB (not quite yet)
>
>_______________________________________________

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Dec 15 21:20:19 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:20:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 with a TR3A transmission tunnel
Message-ID: <4B286003.4070400@comcast.net>

I decided it was time to check the gear oil in my transmission and
discovered that I installed a
TR3A transmission tunnel (without the dipstick access hole) on my 56
TR3. I knew about the dipstick, but didn't think to check for an access
hole when I picked the best tunnel to cleanup and paint. Is there any
tricky way of checking/adding gear oil to the early transmissions
without access to the dipstick? If not, I guess adding a hole for the
dipstick will make a good project for one of these wet rainy Saturdays.

Thanks,

Mike
TS11544L

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 15 21:23:27 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:23:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] revs and oil
Message-ID: <424908.60348.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

After the overhaul on my tr-6 I had two oil leaks that were disturbing.  One was a plug missing from the oil galley running along the left side of the engine, easily fixable.  The other was a little more complicated and required removing the tranny but not the engine.  I'd forgotten to install the cap/plug seal on the rear of the block that covers the end of the cam hole.  It looks much like a freeze plug and is simply inserted and pounded tight.  Not sure whether these issues apply to tr-2 but might be helpful.

gary n.

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Tue Dec 15 21:24:56 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 20:24:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] A very ugly British car
In-Reply-To: <20091216025045.2ACDF24BA5E@mail.napanet.net>
References: <20091216025045.2ACDF24BA5E@mail.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <548050.38933.qm@web59704.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Looks like they tried to eliminate the hood ornament and instead go for a
weird pointed hood.....But, just got back from the eye doctor and I'm
definitely farsighted. 
Pat
TR4A '67 (partial restoration in progress)
________________________________
From: don <don at napanet.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, December 15, 2009 6:47:06 PM
Subject: [TR]
A very ugly British car

I like the comment on the BaT website: "Nice legs,
shame about the face."
A car this homely makes me very appreciative of the
classic lines of 
an MG or TR.
Don
_____________________________________________________

Rare British
Fiberglass: 1951 Martin Ford Special

$30k barely buys you a pair of shoes in
Monaco, but we think that 
this interesting 1951 Martin Ford roadster would
draw more attention 
in town than the housekeeper's latest Aston. This body
was installed 
in place of the stodgy Ford bodies of the time and is propelled
by an 
885cc 4-cylinder. Find it
<http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=2&campid=5336491951&t
oolid=10001&customid=&ext=280437488768&item=280437488768>here 
on eBay in
Monaco with a ~$31k Buy-It-Now. Special thanks to BaT 
reader Marc M. for this
submission!
http://bringatrailer.com/2009/12/15/rare-british-fiberglass-1951-martin-ford-
special/comment-page-1/#comment-136353


Ford-Martin Sports Special 1946 -1954
Fordson Sidevalve
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280437488768
>_________________________________________________________
>
>
>Don Scott
>Calistoga CA
>2001 Miata SE BRG
>1967 TR4A
>1962 MGA Mk II
>1967 MGB (not
quite yet)
>
>_______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Dec 15 21:49:51 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 2009 21:49:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Revs and oil
In-Reply-To: <4C2DFE43-6D77-4804-8BCF-FFABD19B3E7C@tcd.ie>
References: <4C2DFE43-6D77-4804-8BCF-FFABD19B3E7C@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <8E170EDF3296425BA2F4987E06688340@bboffice>

John,
Been there, done that, with my fresh re-build this year.  Got it all back
together as far as drivability then decided to put a few miles, 500, on it
leaving all the interior finish-out until winter. (Why do all the pretty
stuff if some disaster causes you to endanger the leather & wool!?)

Well, I am glad I took the ShakeDown period approach as I was leaving large
oil puddles wherever I went.  After looking at everything at the rear of the
engine, even finding and repairing a leak in the oil pressure gauge
line(false hope) the majority consensus of the list was the engine had to
come out.

Be sure you have looked at everything very closely in the back of the motor,
Valve cover, Oil line, Rear oil galley plug..etc.  The last thing I did
before making the decision was to remove the inspection cover and get it up
on a lift with the motor running and everything sprayed very clean and watch
to see where the leak was.  No sign of a leak until we lowered the car and
revved the engine for a few minutes, then it all became evident.

Here's hoping you find a simple problem.

All the best,
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 7:02 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Revs and oil

Season greetings to all, I may be spending my holiday under the TR2. I was
in the garage trying to get my as of yet not on the road TR2 running better
by fiddling with timing and carb settings. For the first time since the
re-build I was revving out a bit over a half hour period. When I returned
the next morning I found a stream of engine oil all the way to the rear of
the car which appears to have come from the crank rear scroll seal. Is this
terminal?
does it require engine out? Or (he asks optimistically) will this "settle
down" and will only happen while revving but not going anywhere.
Regards and fingers crossed
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Dec 16 05:29:21 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 07:29:21 EST
Subject: [TR] TR3 with a TR3A transmission tunnel
Message-ID: <d2d.58f34c33.385a2ca1@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/15/2009 10:33:44 PM Central Standard Time, 
mlang99 at comcast.net writes: 
> I decided it was time to check the gear oil in my transmission and
> discovered that I installed a
> TR3A transmission tunnel (without the dipstick access hole) on my 56
> TR3. I knew about the dipstick, but didn't think to check for an access
> hole when I picked the best tunnel to cleanup and paint. Is there any
> tricky way of checking/adding gear oil to the early transmissions
> without access to the dipstick? If not, I guess adding a hole for the
> dipstick will make a good project for one of these wet rainy Saturdays.
> 

There is a possibility.  The transmission on my 57 does not have the bung 
drilled into the side of the case that is typical of the later transmissions 
but if you (or the PO) did a little mix - n - match you might have a case 
with the bung.  Otherwise, you are probably into a transmission cover-ectomy.  
It should be easy to add an access hole to your now painted cover.  All you 
need is a hole saw.

That reminds me of a story (urban myth?) I heard many years ago about the 
very first MGA's that came off the line.  The engine used was from another 
application and the sump drain hole was directly over the cross member on the 
MGA and it was impossible to change the oil.  New, modified sumps were 
fitted from that point on.

Believe it or don't, your choice.

Good luck.

Dave

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Dec 16 06:50:42 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:50:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 with a TR3A transmission tunnel
In-Reply-To: <4B286003.4070400@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1921906732.2052731260971442705.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

I cut an access hole the size of the access hole for the jack in the floor pans and the U-joint access in the tranny tunnel just above the dipstick. It's easy access and the plug from the others fits nicely and works well. A fun rainy day project. 
Tom 
61 TR3A 
60 TR3A 
62 TR4 
73 Stag 

Subject: [TR] TR3 with a TR3A transmission tunnel 

I decided it was time to check the gear oil in my transmission and 
discovered that I installed a 
TR3A transmission tunnel (without the dipstick access hole) on my 56 
TR3. I knew about the dipstick, but didn't think to check for an access 
hole when I picked the best tunnel to cleanup and paint. Is there any 
tricky way of checking/adding gear oil to the early transmissions 
without access to the dipstick? If not, I guess adding a hole for the 
dipstick will make a good project for one of these wet rainy Saturdays. 

Thanks, 

Mike 
TS11544L 

_______________________________________________ 

From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com  Wed Dec 16 07:10:23 2009
From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 09:10:23 -0500
Subject: [TR]  microplas surrey top 63 TR4
Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252717E6D46A@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

Does anybody have any experience with fitting a Microplas surrey top onto a 63
TR4?
In addition what is a fair price for same? I see some on ebay from time to
time.

Thank you,

Peter
551-427-1178

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 09:04:51 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 08:04:51 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR - wires
In-Reply-To: <d30.5f94c55d.38596a93@aol.com>
References: <d30.5f94c55d.38596a93@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B290523.1010106@gmail.com>

L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> list, i would like to duplicate a wiring loom from scratch. does anyone  
> know where i can look to buy separate rolls of wires from?  larry  schwartz  
>   
British Pacific carries striped wire by the foot as well as the standard 
Lucas connectors, bulkhead grommets & such.  Here's a link to a group of 
catalogue pages that include the wires and other electrical components.  
There is also a copy of the Lucas wire colour code.  Sorry the first 2 
pages are brake line stuff.  These pages are in Acrobat format.

http://www.britishpacific.com/BPSite/seriesLandRover/s_cat_pages/series42to55.pdf


Teriann

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 10:17:45 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 09:17:45 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W2128C7D24C7FC9962FB32E5CB0@phx.gbl>
References: <d61.595c2785.37ffdc0f@aol.com> <4ACEB104.7020304@gmail.com>
	<BAY110-W2128C7D24C7FC9962FB32E5CB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B291639.70002@gmail.com>

tom white wrote:
> Another modification for the TR3A that goes very well with the R & P 
> conversion is a change to the TR4 trunions, upper A-arms, and ball 
> joint.  With those two conversions my car sterers and drives as well 
> as my T-bird.
>
> Best regards, Tom
>
Tom,

Some money finally came in and I'm ready to make a purchase.

Are the 3 degree trunnions, upper A-arms & ball joint the only parts I 
need to convert a TR3A to 3 degree caster?  Is everything a direct bolt 
on?  I'm thinking of going with rack & pinion that Moss sells.

Thanks

Teriann

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 16 11:00:27 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 10:00:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
In-Reply-To: <4B291639.70002@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <32.3C.01470.B30292B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Are the 3 degree trunnions, upper A-arms & ball joint the 
> only parts I 
> need to convert a TR3A to 3 degree caster?

The steering arms are supposed to change as well, although I'm not certain
how necessary that is.  And I'm sure I don't need to point out that this
would be a good time to replace all the bushings, especially the ones in the
outer, lower A-arms.

>  Is everything a direct bolt on? 

Some people have reported having to grind clearance on the A-arms; but maybe
that's only after you modify them to reduce the camber or with aftermarket
wheels.

Randall

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 16 11:01:45 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 13:01:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Floor replacement
Message-ID: <BAY123-W104486CFFB8D165922C2A5BA870@phx.gbl>

Some months ago I came upon a link to a very thorough article somebody wrote
about replacing the floor pans and rockers in their car. Now that I'm getting
ready to tackle that job I cannot find where I thought I saved that link.
Anybody want to hack into my computer and find it for me? Or better yet tell
me where it was originally posted:)  I'm off for the holidays and Evelyn wants
me out of the house:)



Thanks,

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 16 11:02:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 10:02:36 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR - wires
In-Reply-To: <4B290523.1010106@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4.23.01550.CB0292B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> British Pacific carries striped wire by the foot as well as 
> the standard 
> Lucas connectors, bulkhead grommets & such. 

Man, Steve has just all kinds of stuff!  I'm gonna have to pay a visit to
Valencia.

Thanks, TeriAnn.
Randall

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Dec 16 11:41:53 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:41:53 +0000
Subject: [TR] Floor replacement
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W104486CFFB8D165922C2A5BA870@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W104486CFFB8D165922C2A5BA870@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DB1415@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>

For which car ?. I recall there is a nice write up in the members only section
of the 6-pack site that describes how one person tackled this on a TR6 if that
is helpful.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 1:02 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Floor replacement

Some months ago I came upon a link to a very thorough article somebody wrote
about replacing the floor pans and rockers in their car. Now that I'm getting
ready to tackle that job I cannot find where I thought I saved that link.
Anybody want to hack into my computer and find it for me? Or better yet tell
me where it was originally posted:)  I'm off for the holidays and Evelyn
wants
me out of the house:)



Thanks,

Marty

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 16 12:24:50 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:24:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] Floor replacement
In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DB1415@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <BAY123-W104486CFFB8D165922C2A5BA870@phx.gbl>,
	<374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DB1415@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W15BCBCB584C3A8CE630534BA870@phx.gbl>

 That was it. Thanks Stan.



Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Wed Dec 16 15:03:22 2009
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:03:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
In-Reply-To: <32.3C.01470.B30292B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <794444.57859.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The steering arms are reversed to throw the tie rod end as close to the brake
disk as possible, the theory as I understand it is to lessen "bump steer". 
Unequal spacers were also used to further offset the connection point on the
steering are---3MM is about right according to Revington TR.


Regards,
Dan Cronin

--- On Wed, 12/16/09, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:


From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, December 16, 2009, 1:00 PM


> Are the 3 degree trunnions, upper A-arms & ball joint the
> only parts I
> need to convert a TR3A to 3 degree caster?

The steering arms are supposed to change as well, although I'm not certain
how necessary that is.  And I'm sure I don't need to point out that this
would be a good time to replace all the bushings, especially the ones in the
outer, lower A-arms.

>  Is everything a direct bolt on?

Some people have reported having to grind clearance on the A-arms; but maybe
that's only after you modify them to reduce the camber or with aftermarket
wheels.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Dec 16 16:06:40 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:06:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Floor replacement
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W104486CFFB8D165922C2A5BA870@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W104486CFFB8D165922C2A5BA870@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6C5D3C12DA4041DF84DADE8E4AD6AF2E@DaveLaptop>

Hi Marty,
Was it my TR4A site:?
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a



----- Original Message ----- 


From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 1:01 PM
rSubject: [TR] Floor replacement


> Some months ago I came upon a link to a very thorough article somebody 
> wrote
> about replacing the floor pans and rockers in their car. Now that I'm 
> getting
> ready to tackle that job I cannot find where I thought I saved that link.
> Anybody want to hack into my computer and find it for me? Or better yet 
> tell
> me where it was originally posted:)  I'm off for the holidays and Evelyn 
> wants
> me out of the house:)
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Marty
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Wed Dec 16 16:07:40 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 23:07:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Floor replacement
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W15BCBCB584C3A8CE630534BA870@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001636833e6ec620b8047ae092a1@google.com>

Marty,

I find Macy's info very helpful, and maybe this can help you too:

http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/TR4_floors.htm

From rcateb at comcast.net  Wed Dec 16 18:51:20 2009
From: rcateb at comcast.net (Bob and Trish)
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 19:51:20 -0600
Subject: [TR] Floor Replacement
Message-ID: <3648EFEF1FE241B68AFEA7EB2F2EC6AF@RCA>

replaced the floors on my 75 a couple years back.  Greatest sweat was getting
the old
out.  I would highly recommend you order and replace inner sills with the
floor pans.
Good luck-have fun further bonding with your TR.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 17 10:59:28 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 12:59:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] Paging Andy Pakard
Message-ID: <BAY123-W2436C964C6C3A20E5EFEB8BA860@phx.gbl>

Andy, you out there? Shoot me an email. trmarty at hotmail.com



Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Thu Dec 17 15:52:03 2009
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 17:52:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] Engine identification (Warning MG content)
Message-ID: <380-220091241722523840@M2W109.mail2web.com>

Can anybody with an MG midget (or info about) confirm an engine number
FP69710UE as a 1979 MG Midget 1500 engine.  I just picked this up at a very
good price, and am going to use it in my wife's Spitfire.  Just so I can
confirm parts (Triumph of course) replacement - Its a complete long block,
looks like it hasn't been worked on (at least seriously) and had about 80K
on it so it's definitely in need of a rebuild.  Plugs looked sooty, but dry
(number 3 had a very slight oil to it, and confirmed .010 thrust washer
movement - so it looks like I got a winner!
I'm hoping I can just polish up the journals and install new bearings, but
that will have to wait till I can open'er up


Barry Schwartz

--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web.com - Microsoft. Exchange solutions from a leading provider -
http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Thu Dec 17 20:50:41 2009
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 20:50:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <20090923025219294.DLRF1442@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <2D726F09FBE741BF92EB914BD9A8F775@ultimate7>
	<20090923025219294.DLRF1442@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <69B34585C6C049EE90D0D64062CD6DE6@maximum7>

So I took a look at the rear signals again and found a few odd things:

1. The wiring from the rear signals (those are the ones closest to the
center right?) runs into the trunk and along the RH (US passenger) side of
the trunk, past the fuel tank, along the floor next to the passenger seat
and then up the passenger firewall next to the speaker and apparently
through a whole in the firewall by the fuse box.  Randall said they should
be on the LH side, am I missing something?

2. The center post of the bulb socket is definitely grounded.  If I hook up
and independent power source and (positive) ground it to the body and touch
the center post to the ground on the light and the negative power lead to
the center of the light bulb, it lights up.

3. If I run a wire from the front signal to the rear to power both the front
and rear signals, the front signal stops blinking quickly and they both
start blinking roughly every 10 seconds.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I think this is the only thing
keeping my car from being road-legal.

Thanks,
Jeremiah

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 8:52 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] signals don't work

> All I need now is to get the rear ones working.  I don't know 
> where that connection takes place,

The wires from the rear turn lamps should emerge from the wiring harness
near the LH horn.

> or if it is not working because I  have bypassed the
> correct wires to connect the switch to the lights.

Very likely.  On the LH side (assuming this is a LHD car) just behind the
horn, the GR wire from the LH rear lamp, the wire from the LH front lamp,
and the GR wire from the steering box should all go into a 4-way sleeve.
The 4th position may be vacant, or may be another GR wire in the harness,
that actually runs over to the RH horn and doesn't do anything.  (If the car
was RHD, it would be the wire to the switch).

Also on the LH side, the GW wire from the RH rear lamp, a GW wire from the
other side of the car, and the GW wire from the switch should join in
another 4-way connector (with the 4th position empty).

Note that it does matter which wire from the front lamps is which, even
though they probably won't have the factory color codes.  One wire gives a
dimmer light, the other a bright light.  The turn signals should always be
the bright light, the dim light is for parking.

Note also that the sleeves sometimes fail internally.  New ones are only
about a buck, a worthwhile investment, IMO.

> I also checked and the center post in the light socket for 
> the rear signals
> seems to be grounded (+ ground), as I understand it, that 
> should not be
> grounded and the outside of the socket is grounded via the screws that
> attach it to the trunk.  Can anyone confirm?

That is correct.  However, the center terminal might appear to be grounded
if it were connected through the harness to the front lights.  You'll need
to disconnect the end near the LH horn to do a continuity check.

Although it's not perfect, this diagram roughly shows the routing of wires
through the harness:
http://tinyurl.com/lcfvsk

Feel free to download it and save on your hard drive.  Someday I might fix
it up to show the dash correctly, but not this year.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Dec 17 23:38:22 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 22:38:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <69B34585C6C049EE90D0D64062CD6DE6@maximum7>
Message-ID: <15.01.01567.F532B2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> 1. The wiring from the rear signals (those are the ones closest to the
> center right?) runs into the trunk and along the RH (US 
> passenger) side of
> the trunk, past the fuel tank, along the floor next to the 
> passenger seat
> and then up the passenger firewall next to the speaker and apparently
> through a whole in the firewall by the fuse box.  Randall 
> said they should
> be on the LH side, am I missing something?

Sorry I wasn't more clear; the wires do run on the RH side of the car from
under the dash back to the rear.  But the harness splits near the RH side of
the battery box (inside the car).  There is a large bundle of wires that
goes through the firewall at that point, to the fuse block, voltage
regulator, starter solenoid, etc.  But the turn signal wires from the rear
(green/white and green/red) run in a bundle across the car still behind the
firewall, and go through a grommet near the steering column on the LH side.


Not a very good photo, but if you look here:
http://tinyurl.com/yf5k94s hopefully you can see three bundles of wires
running above the steering column.  The lowest, new-looking bundle is not
original, but the other two are original, and the top one has the turn
signal wires inside.  If you zoom in on the photo, perhaps you can see the
edge of the grommet, peeking out from behind the brake pedal, where the
bundle of wires goes through the firewall.  Then in this photo
http://tinyurl.com/yap6chb you can see where the bundle runs along the LH
inner fender to the connectors by the horn.  

Unfortunately, my original wires have faded until the colors are no longer
visible (the colored wires in the photo are ones I've added), but hopefully
yours will be in better shape.

However, there is another pair of green/white and green/red wires!  They run
from that bundle of connectors near the RH horn back through the harness
inside the car, and out on the LH side, to connectors near the LH horn.

> 3. If I run a wire from the front signal to the rear to power 
> both the front
> and rear signals, the front signal stops blinking quickly and 
> they both
> start blinking roughly every 10 seconds.

So it's not a 'hard' short to ground (otherwise they wouldn't work at all).
This suggests to me that there is a wiring error, rather than just a short
to ground.  My approach would still be what I outlined before, isolate the
wires and test for where the mystery load/short is.

But I guess you could pull the rear turn lampholders out of their boots, and
do a visual for shorts, corrosion, etc. inside the boot.

Randall

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Dec 18 09:01:13 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 16:01:13 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited
Message-ID: <630490.29675.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

This subject comes up from time to time, so I thought I'd offer the latest for
review.
Spent some time talking to a group of people yesterday on the subject
of "Urban Phenomena" - in this case, animals. In the UK, we are seeing a
substantial increase in wild animals moving into urban communities and living
happily alongside human beings. Badgers and foxes are typical examples.
One of
the people in the group told the rest of us he'd finished a 6 year long
restoration of a 3A and took it on its first trip to visit his brother. The
car was left overnight in the brother's carport and as the evening drew on,
the family watched the antics of some fox cubs playing near the garage on the
lawn.
Next morning, as the 3A was reversed out to return to its new home, all
of a sudden - no brakes! Urgent investigation as to the reasons why, revealed
tiny and very sharp teeth had knawed both front hydraulic pipes - and
identities of the culprits was confirmed pretty well immediately by what was
left under the car - apart from the fluid on the concrete. Clearly, Dot 4
hydraulic fluid acts as a most effective laxative for fox cubs!

Jonmac

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Dec 18 09:16:39 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:16:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited
In-Reply-To: <630490.29675.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <630490.29675.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <92A61FC44A96425EA4121CB6F3DEDA79@bboffice>

Indeed Jon, I had the plastic reservoir chewed through on a vehicle a few
years back.  Did not find it until I noticed the brakes getting a little
soft!

Also ruined a wiring harness in the tractor too!

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 9:01 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited

This subject comes up from time to time, so I thought I'd offer the latest
for review.
Spent some time talking to a group of people yesterday on the subject of
"Urban Phenomena" - in this case, animals. In the UK, we are seeing a
substantial increase in wild animals moving into urban communities and
living happily alongside human beings. Badgers and foxes are typical
examples.
One of
the people in the group told the rest of us he'd finished a 6 year long
restoration of a 3A and took it on its first trip to visit his brother. The
car was left overnight in the brother's carport and as the evening drew on,
the family watched the antics of some fox cubs playing near the garage on
the lawn.
Next morning, as the 3A was reversed out to return to its new home, all of a
sudden - no brakes! Urgent investigation as to the reasons why, revealed
tiny and very sharp teeth had knawed both front hydraulic pipes - and
identities of the culprits was confirmed pretty well immediately by what was
left under the car - apart from the fluid on the concrete. Clearly, Dot 4
hydraulic fluid acts as a most effective laxative for fox cubs!

Jonmac
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Dec 18 09:52:39 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 09:52:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited
In-Reply-To: <92A61FC44A96425EA4121CB6F3DEDA79@bboffice>
References: <630490.29675.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
	<92A61FC44A96425EA4121CB6F3DEDA79@bboffice>
Message-ID: <090B629286ED41658A857B9FBE373805@joepentiumnew>

Down here in AZ, it's Pack Rats (not the human kind) that like to eat the
wiring on cars left outside.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 9:17 AM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] Critters - revisited

Indeed Jon, I had the plastic reservoir chewed through on a vehicle a few
years back.  Did not find it until I noticed the brakes getting a little
soft!

Also ruined a wiring harness in the tractor too!

Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 9:01 AM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited

This subject comes up from time to time, so I thought I'd offer the latest
for review.
Spent some time talking to a group of people yesterday on the subject of
"Urban Phenomena" - in this case, animals. In the UK, we are seeing a
substantial increase in wild animals moving into urban communities and
living happily alongside human beings. Badgers and foxes are typical
examples.
One of
the people in the group told the rest of us he'd finished a 6 year long
restoration of a 3A and took it on its first trip to visit his brother. The
car was left overnight in the brother's carport and as the evening drew on,
the family watched the antics of some fox cubs playing near the garage on
the lawn.
Next morning, as the 3A was reversed out to return to its new home, all of a
sudden - no brakes! Urgent investigation as to the reasons why, revealed
tiny and very sharp teeth had knawed both front hydraulic pipes - and
identities of the culprits was confirmed pretty well immediately by what was
left under the car - apart from the fluid on the concrete. Clearly, Dot 4
hydraulic fluid acts as a most effective laxative for fox cubs!

Jonmac
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Dec 18 10:18:57 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 11:18:57 -0600
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited
References: <630490.29675.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <060F4EAA00AC49D3B1D5C90B20C60658@yourpd3mh0abgs>

hmmmm.  now we know why they banned fox hunting in the UK.  no room for 
horses thundering through the garage!  and, how loud is that hunting horn 
when you are under the car!  ;-)
Best,
Ray



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 10:01 AM
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited


> This subject comes up from time to time, so I thought I'd offer the latest 
> for
> review.
> Spent some time talking to a group of people yesterday on the subject
> of "Urban Phenomena" - in this case, animals. In the UK, we are seeing a
> substantial increase in wild animals moving into urban communities and 
> living
> happily alongside human beings. Badgers and foxes are typical examples.
> One of
> the people in the group told the rest of us he'd finished a 6 year long
> restoration of a 3A and took it on its first trip to visit his brother. 
> The
> car was left overnight in the brother's carport and as the evening drew 
> on,
> the family watched the antics of some fox cubs playing near the garage on 
> the
> lawn.
> Next morning, as the 3A was reversed out to return to its new home, all
> of a sudden - no brakes! Urgent investigation as to the reasons why, 
> revealed
> tiny and very sharp teeth had knawed both front hydraulic pipes - and
> identities of the culprits was confirmed pretty well immediately by what 
> was
> left under the car - apart from the fluid on the concrete. Clearly, Dot 4
> hydraulic fluid acts as a most effective laxative for fox cubs!
>
> Jonmac
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Dec 18 11:58:07 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 10:58:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <69B34585C6C049EE90D0D64062CD6DE6@maximum7>
References: <2D726F09FBE741BF92EB914BD9A8F775@ultimate7>
	<20090923025219294.DLRF1442@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
	<69B34585C6C049EE90D0D64062CD6DE6@maximum7>
Message-ID: <421CC12585E0402EB7F3A5FCCFFD6B41@jdnet.deere.com>

> 1. The wiring from the rear signals (those are the ones 
> closest to the center right?)

Just for clarity, the answer to this depends on the vintage of your car (and
what changes have been made by previous owners).

Until TS18912, the turn signals were on the corners (along with the tail
lights), and the center lamp served as both brake light and license plate
light.  At TS18913, two more "beehive" style lamps were added to serve as
turn signals, and the corner lamps changed to being brake and tail lights.
The center lamp got a chrome cover and served only as license plate light.

As with most change points, those numbers are only approximate.  There may
have been some cars on either side of the line, with the other configuration
(cars were rarely finished in commission number order).  And no doubt there
are a few earlier cars around that have had the beehive turn signals added
after leaving the factory.  There was even a factory plinth available to
give a flat mounting surface (which the factory used on a few cars just
after the change, so they could use up the earlier rear aprons).

-- Randall  

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Dec 18 16:44:00 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 23:44:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited
In-Reply-To: <296887831.1630681261179272005.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1636600969.1632481261179840009.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> This subject comes up from time to time, so I thought I'd offer the latest
> for
> review.
> Spent some time talking to a group of people yesterday on the subject
> of "Urban Phenomena" - in this case, animals. In the UK, we are seeing a
> substantial increase in wild animals moving into urban communities and
> living
> happily alongside human beings. Badgers and foxes are typical examples.


Crittermania in New Hampshire.B  Found my project TR3A in a shed in Ossinee,
NY where it had sat for 25 years.B  Racoons had used the engine bay as a poop
palace for all that time.B  Everytime I beat on the wheel drums to free the
brakes, a cloud of fecal dust drifted up and around my head.B  Gadfrey, the
car was worth it, but for a time it was questionable, given the state of the
rust.



Then, after completely restoring the car over 3 years, I put on my brand new
Roadster Factory convertible top, threw on a car cover, and put it away for
winter.B  In the spring I found mice had eaten the edges of the window
lining.B 



We have moose, black bear, wild turkey, red fox, coyote, whiteB  tails,
partridge, and my wife's family all running loose onB my forestedB property
here leaving tracks and "detritus," but so far so good as concerns the car
since the mice.B  Then again, I put mothballs in and around the car while it
sits through winter.B 



One thing we don't have is snakes, other than harmless and small garden
varieties.B  The bigger ones we send to Washington.



Terry Smith, TS 58667

New Hampshire

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Fri Dec 18 16:57:00 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 18:57:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR7 with delco distributor question
Message-ID: <f99bbf590912181557v3f715482je06a5298d5622687@mail.gmail.com>

I'm installing the final bits on the new TR7 engine in Susan's 1980
Spyder and have a question on the installation of a Delco distributor.

The original installation was with a Lucas distributor which mounts to
the block via a stamped sheet metal bracket that has two ears on it.
The question is does the Delco distributor use this same sheet metal
bracket or does it bolt directly to the block with the bracket
removed.  Oddly enough I can't find any pictures of this bracket in
the parts manual or service manual in use with either distributor.
Hence the question.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Brad

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Dec 18 18:19:54 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 20:19:54 EST
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited
Message-ID: <23c9.44d08622.385d843a@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/18/2009 6:54:49 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
terryrs at comcast.net writes:

Then,  after completely restoring the car over 3 years, I put on my brand  
new
Roadster Factory convertible top, threw on a car cover, and put it away  for
winter.  In the spring I found mice had eaten the edges of the  window
lining. 
 
==AM==
Similarly, I once helped a friend install a new Robbins tonneau cover on  
his TR250. That winter, he put the car in his newly built garage, tonneau  
cover nicely folded in the trunk. The following spring, he got the car out  
and went to fit the tonneau cover, only to find some rodent(s) had treated the 
 cover like a giant paper doll project: there was a sizable hole in each of 
the  four "quadrants" of the tonneau cover. Most discouraging....  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Fri Dec 18 19:10:53 2009
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 21:10:53 EST
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited
Message-ID: <bcc.60399209.385d902d@aol.com>

This could lead onto a related topic that somehow goes off on a bit of a  
tangent: That of "How to keep critters out of your car during periods of  
storage". Personally, I've had mouse problems in my TR3A. They've never eaten  
wiring looms or done anything that caused unreliability, but they have  
occasionally formed a nest in the trunk, I would assume from carpet underlay or  
seat stuffing.
 
I received many recommendations, on this forum, of using  various brands of 
dryer anti-static sheets, moth balls and several  other recommendations. 
None of them worked. I put traps in, caught lots of mice,  but there always 
seemed to be a steady stream of mice to replace the ones that I  trapped.
 
Eventually, in the Spring I drove the car about 20 minutes to a grocery  
store. About half way there, two mice started running back and forth on top  
of the transmission tunnel while I was driving. I arrived at the grocery 
store,  opened the car door and the mice got out, never to be seen again and 
none  replaced them.
 
>From this I have concluded that when mice build nests in your car, it is  
their way of saying they need a ride to the grocery store, and they won't 
leave  the car until they get the ride they want!
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3, Ashton, Ontario,  K0A 1B0, Canada 
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 
Christmas  trees at Kings Creek Trees!  Grown on our sister farm in 
Pennsylvania, for  the past 20 years they have been receiving U.S. awards for 
shape, colour,  fullness, health, aroma and needle retention. Concolor Fir, 
Douglas-Fir and  Fraser Fir. Delivery and in-home set-up service available.


Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Dec 18 22:44:23 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 22:44:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Critters - revisited
In-Reply-To: <bcc.60399209.385d902d@aol.com>
References: <bcc.60399209.385d902d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2178970447424E468E04E1F59D525B71@bboffice>

<I received many recommendations, on this forum, of using  various brands of
dryer anti-static sheets, moth balls and several  <other recommendations. 
<None of them worked. I put traps in, caught lots of mice,  but there always
seemed to be a steady stream of mice to replace the <ones that I  trapped.>
 



Great story Tim...

My TR3 shares a barn with two donkeys and four goats, while we see mice
every few days they are never at the end of the barn where the car is.  I
think they are pretty happy in the hay stack and mooching the occasional oat
or two that the goats leave behind.  Moral of this story, keep you mice
happy and they will leave your car alone... Or, buy a cat.

Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com  Sat Dec 19 13:02:14 2009
From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:02:14 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] J-Type OD Question
Message-ID: <13206433.1261252934279.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Can someone tell me if the copper washer for the speedometer angle drive goes on the transmission side or the speedometer cable side. Thanks,

Doug Nelson
74 TR6

________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 19 13:43:38 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 12:43:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] J-Type OD Question
In-Reply-To: <13206433.1261252934279.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <8C.E6.01470.AFA3D2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Can someone tell me if the copper washer for the speedometer 
> angle drive goes on the transmission side or the speedometer 
> cable side. 

I believe it goes on the transmission side.  Not required in some cases,
it's only because some angle drives are a bit too long and will bottom in
the drive gear (putting pressure on the angle drive mechanism).

Randall

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 19 16:41:28 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 15:41:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tiny little tenax
Message-ID: <757872.18541.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

when i bought my TR3 it came with a few boxes of parts.
i have been sorting through for the lift the dot/tenax screws that i have.
i have almost all of them.
but i do have a bunch of tiny Tenax fittings. way smaller than the ones on the windshield.
where did they get used on the TR3A? or did they?
merry Christmas
Frank 
58 TR3 TS41366L

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 19 17:57:07 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 16:57:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] tiny little tenax
In-Reply-To: <757872.18541.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3B.45.01470.4667D2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> but i do have a bunch of tiny Tenax fittings. way smaller 
> than the ones on the windshield.
> where did they get used on the TR3A? or did they?

Not used on TR3A.  Those are the infamous "baby Tenax", used all around the
cockpit only on early TR2.

They've been unobtanium for many years; if you've got a full set in good
condition, they may be worth more than the rest of the car!

Randall

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Sat Dec 19 18:45:46 2009
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 18:45:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <421CC12585E0402EB7F3A5FCCFFD6B41@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <2D726F09FBE741BF92EB914BD9A8F775@ultimate7>
	<20090923025219294.DLRF1442@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
	<69B34585C6C049EE90D0D64062CD6DE6@maximum7>
	<421CC12585E0402EB7F3A5FCCFFD6B41@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1A84BD4B5F134AE7B67C1D4E5F597192@maximum7>

The car in question is TS16441 a late TR3 with disk brakes (I think it was
originally a narrow mouth, but currently has a wide-mouth) and no door
handles.

The lights appear like those in the picture at
http://www.magma.ca/~tboiscla/TR3A_RrTrLid.jpg except that the center light
is not chromed and runs with the running lights.  I have the wiring so the
lights on the outside are running lights, and brake lights, the center light
is a running light and license plate light, and the two in between are what
I am trying to use as signals.  From what I have read, that is probably
correct, though unanticipated on a car this old.

Thanks,
Jeremiah


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:58 AM
To: 'Jeremiah Curry'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] signals don't work

> 1. The wiring from the rear signals (those are the ones 
> closest to the center right?)

Just for clarity, the answer to this depends on the vintage of your car (and
what changes have been made by previous owners).

Until TS18912, the turn signals were on the corners (along with the tail
lights), and the center lamp served as both brake light and license plate
light.  At TS18913, two more "beehive" style lamps were added to serve as
turn signals, and the corner lamps changed to being brake and tail lights.
The center lamp got a chrome cover and served only as license plate light.

As with most change points, those numbers are only approximate.  There may
have been some cars on either side of the line, with the other configuration
(cars were rarely finished in commission number order).  And no doubt there
are a few earlier cars around that have had the beehive turn signals added
after leaving the factory.  There was even a factory plinth available to
give a flat mounting surface (which the factory used on a few cars just
after the change, so they could use up the earlier rear aprons).

-- Randall  

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Sat Dec 19 19:12:49 2009
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 19:12:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <15.01.01567.F532B2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <69B34585C6C049EE90D0D64062CD6DE6@maximum7>
	<15.01.01567.F532B2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <84A2AFD07242421EA532EDD59011C04E@maximum7>

> 3. If I run a wire from the front signal to the rear to power 
> both the front
> and rear signals, the front signal stops blinking quickly and 
> they both
> start blinking roughly every 10 seconds.

So it's not a 'hard' short to ground (otherwise they wouldn't work at all).
This suggests to me that there is a wiring error, rather than just a short
to ground.  My approach would still be what I outlined before, isolate the
wires and test for where the mystery load/short is.

But I guess you could pull the rear turn lampholders out of their boots, and
do a visual for shorts, corrosion, etc. inside the boot.

Randall

I should have been more clear, I have already removed the bulb socket and am
running the powered wire from the front signals to the center terminal in
the light and manually grounding the outside of the bulb socket.  That is
when I see the light turn on, but blink very slowly.

Thanks,
Jeremiah
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Dec 19 19:30:00 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 19:30:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <1A84BD4B5F134AE7B67C1D4E5F597192@maximum7>
References: <2D726F09FBE741BF92EB914BD9A8F775@ultimate7><20090923025219294.DLRF1442@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com><69B34585C6C049EE90D0D64062CD6DE6@maximum7><421CC12585E0402EB7F3A5FCCFFD6B41@jdnet.deere.com>
	<1A84BD4B5F134AE7B67C1D4E5F597192@maximum7>
Message-ID: <C45D503174F549B19B390D813C6FD4B6@bboffice>

Jeremiah,
Based on the TRA "Judging Standards & Restoration Guidelines" I would say
that you are correct in the configuration that you have.  This would be true
for all cars after TS-15600 
Bill

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 6:46 PM
To: 'Randall'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] signals don't work

The car in question is TS16441 a late TR3 with disk brakes (I think it was
originally a narrow mouth, but currently has a wide-mouth) and no door
handles.

The lights appear like those in the picture at
http://www.magma.ca/~tboiscla/TR3A_RrTrLid.jpg except that the center light
is not chromed and runs with the running lights.  I have the wiring so the
lights on the outside are running lights, and brake lights, the center light
is a running light and license plate light, and the two in between are what
I am trying to use as signals.  From what I have read, that is probably
correct, though unanticipated on a car this old.

Thanks,
Jeremiah


-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 11:58 AM
To: 'Jeremiah Curry'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] signals don't work

> 1. The wiring from the rear signals (those are the ones closest to the 
> center right?)

Just for clarity, the answer to this depends on the vintage of your car (and
what changes have been made by previous owners).

Until TS18912, the turn signals were on the corners (along with the tail
lights), and the center lamp served as both brake light and license plate
light.  At TS18913, two more "beehive" style lamps were added to serve as
turn signals, and the corner lamps changed to being brake and tail lights.
The center lamp got a chrome cover and served only as license plate light.

As with most change points, those numbers are only approximate.  There may
have been some cars on either side of the line, with the other configuration
(cars were rarely finished in commission number order).  And no doubt there
are a few earlier cars around that have had the beehive turn signals added
after leaving the factory.  There was even a factory plinth available to
give a flat mounting surface (which the factory used on a few cars just
after the change, so they could use up the earlier rear aprons).

-- Randall  
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Dec 19 21:20:37 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 20:20:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <1A84BD4B5F134AE7B67C1D4E5F597192@maximum7>
Message-ID: <CB.F0.01550.516AD2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The lights appear like those in the picture at
> http://www.magma.ca/~tboiscla/TR3A_RrTrLid.jpg except that 
> the center light
> is not chromed and runs with the running lights.  I have the 
> wiring so the
> lights on the outside are running lights, and brake lights, 
> the center light
> is a running light and license plate light, and the two in 
> between are what
> I am trying to use as signals.  From what I have read, that 
> is probably
> correct, though unanticipated on a car this old.

My apologies, Jeremiah, I read the line for UK cars instead of US.  You are
correct, your car should have the separate turn signals (assuming it is a US
model).

Randall

From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz  Sat Dec 19 21:28:58 2009
From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 17:28:58 +1300
Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1261076401.26658.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20091220170817.0460e9a8@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz>

TeriAnn

In my opinion this is the best single thing you can do to a side-curtain 
(real!) TR

Like Tom I went for the more expensive Revington conversion which comes 
with brackets to weld onto the chassis to mount the R&P in exactly the 
right place to eliminate the bump steer. (it is however quite expensive, 
but a very complete kit & the rack is modified to the correct length so you 
do not introduce extra bump-steer)

I believe the Moss one bolts onto the old steering mounts and is not quite 
so rigid,
but more importantly does introduce some unwanted bump-steer.

The steering arms are reversed & spaced closer to the discs to correct the 
Ackerman angle in the steering geometry that was incorrect from the factory 
until the factory installed R&P with the TR4's. This, along with the 
elimination of all those silly relays & ball joints etc. transforms the 
driving experience more than anything else I have done to my car ( & that 
is quite a few things over a 30 year period !)

There are a couple of drawbacks with the Revington conversion ( I am not 
sure if it applies also to the Moss one but would think that it does...)
because you install a complete new steering column you cannot keep the horn 
or indicators in the middle of the steering wheel, easily fixed but does 
alter subtly the look of the car.
Because the rack is lower geared than the original steering it also pays to 
install a smaller "After market" steering wheel to compensate for it, a 15" 
wheel looks quite ok in my opinion and can add a touch of class to your 
cockpit.

Go for it, you will not regret it I assure you,

regards from "The Deep South"
where it is summer time now...


At 12:00 p.m. 17/12/2009 -0700, you wrote:

>------------------------------
>
>Message: 2
>Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:03:22 -0800 (PST)
>From: A Daniel Cronin <adcronin at ameritech.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
>To: 'Triumph List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>, Randall
>         <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
>Message-ID: <794444.57859.qm at web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>The steering arms are reversed to throw the tie rod end as close to the brake
>disk as possible, the theory as I understand it is to lessen "bump steer".
>Unequal spacers were also used to further offset the connection point on the
>steering are---3MM is about right according to Revington TR.
>
>
>Regards,
>Dan Cronin

From spamiam at comcast.net  Sun Dec 20 06:58:27 2009
From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 08:58:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR7 with delco distributor question
Message-ID: <6B0F1C62BEF54D8890F8F6E8DC415B6D@I7QUAD>

Brad,  No it does not have a separate pedastal.  I wish it did.  It is nearly
impossible to get to one of the 2 bolts, and you need to loosen them to set
the timing!!!!   I took a US distributor wrench, cut off the wrench head
(because none I could find were the right size), and had a friend weld a new
head on.

As I am sure you know, the ignition module inside that special cast aluminum
"electronic coil" housing is a standard Delco module.  Unfortunately, the coil
itself is unique as far as I know.  Some are pretty similar, but I never
bothered to try to make an aftermarket coil fit.

On my Spider, I deleted the Stromberg carbs, and used the UK-type SU carbs.
they work VERY well.  SM needles, btw. (stock engine with tubular exhaust
manifold, no cat).  I tried the UK version of the Delco distributor for the
vacuum advance, but it is points only, I did not see an easy way to retrofit
it to the US reluctor.  I tried an aftermarket electronic ignition for the
points type, but it was terrible because it is hard to design the chopper to
fit in the delco.  Lucas is much easier on that account.  I went back to the
US Delco and deleted vacuum advance. Of course the SU cabs are not fitted for
retard, so the engine runs on mechanical advance only.  Not a problem.

-Tony

------------------------------

>Message: 2
>Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2009 18:57:00 -0500
>From: Brad Kahler <brad.kahler at 141.com>
>Subject: [TR] TR7 with delco distributor question
>To: Triumphs <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
>Message-ID:
><f99bbf590912181557v3f715482je06a5298d5622687 at mail.gmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
>I'm installing the final bits on the new TR7 engine in Susan's 1980
>Spyder and have a question on the installation of a Delco distributor.
>
>The original installation was with a Lucas distributor which mounts to
>the block via a stamped sheet metal bracket that has two ears on it.
>The question is does the Delco distributor use this same sheet metal
>bracket or does it bolt directly to the block with the bracket
>removed.  Oddly enough I can't find any pictures of this bracket in
>the parts manual or service manual in use with either distributor.
>Hence the question.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated!
>
>Thanks,
>
>Brad

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 20 09:11:32 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:11:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
In-Reply-To: <5.1.0.14.0.20091220170817.0460e9a8@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz>
References: <mailman.7.1261076401.26658.triumphs@autox.team.net>,
	<5.1.0.14.0.20091220170817.0460e9a8@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W25FE76DDE14A697F79CBFAE5830@phx.gbl>

>because you install a complete new steering column you cannot keep the horn
or indicators in the middle of the steering wheel

You can maintain the center of the steering wheel location for the horn and
have column mounted turn signals by installing a TR4 steering column.  If you
are changing to R&P originality isn't an issue.  The TR4 column with a custom
wheel looks really good.

Best regards,

Tom



> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 17:28:58 +1300
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz
> Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
>
> TeriAnn
>
> In my opinion this is the best single thing you can do to a side-curtain
> (real!) TR
>
> Like Tom I went for the more expensive Revington conversion which comes
> with brackets to weld onto the chassis to mount the R&P in exactly the
> right place to eliminate the bump steer. (it is however quite expensive,
> but a very complete kit & the rack is modified to the correct length so you
> do not introduce extra bump-steer)
>
> I believe the Moss one bolts onto the old steering mounts and is not quite
> so rigid,
> but more importantly does introduce some unwanted bump-steer.
>
> The steering arms are reversed & spaced closer to the discs to correct the
> Ackerman angle in the steering geometry that was incorrect from the factory
> until the factory installed R&P with the TR4's. This, along with the
> elimination of all those silly relays & ball joints etc. transforms the
> driving experience more than anything else I have done to my car ( & that
> is quite a few things over a 30 year period !)
>
> There are a couple of drawbacks with the Revington conversion ( I am not
> sure if it applies also to the Moss one but would think that it does...)
> because you install a complete new steering column you cannot keep the horn
> or indicators in the middle of the steering wheel, easily fixed but does
> alter subtly the look of the car.
> Because the rack is lower geared than the original steering it also pays to
> install a smaller "After market" steering wheel to compensate for it, a 15"
> wheel looks quite ok in my opinion and can add a touch of class to your
> cockpit.
>
> Go for it, you will not regret it I assure you,
>
> regards from "The Deep South"
> where it is summer time now...
>
>
> At 12:00 p.m. 17/12/2009 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >------------------------------
> >
> >Message: 2
> >Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 14:03:22 -0800 (PST)
> >From: A Daniel Cronin <adcronin at ameritech.net>
> >Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
> >To: 'Triumph List' <triumphs at autox.team.net>, Randall
> >         <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> >Message-ID: <794444.57859.qm at web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> >The steering arms are reversed to throw the tie rod end as close to the
brake
> >disk as possible, the theory as I understand it is to lessen "bump steer".
> >Unequal spacers were also used to further offset the connection point on
the
> >steering are---3MM is about right according to Revington TR.
> >
> >
> >Regards,
> >Dan Cronin
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 20 09:15:03 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:15:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] Where to post.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W2353955B6B244272E838C7E5830@phx.gbl>

I have a couple of fixes I think it would be worthwhile posting to a permanent
site.  Can someone suggest a place for them?

Best regards,
Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Dec 20 09:23:58 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 16:23:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Pressure bleeder.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W383FAAE499D93DF4956946E5830@phx.gbl>

I saw a pressure bleeder on TV yesterday that gave me an idea, God help us.

Get a one gallon garden sprayer.  Remove the handle and wand from the sprayer.
Find a cap that fits on your brake and clutch resevours.  Center drill the cap
and install a bulkhead hydraulic fitting.  Install the cap onto the brake &/or
clutch resevour.  Connect the hose from the garden spayer to the bulkhead
fitting with a clamp.  Add brake fluid to the garden sprayer.  Put the lid on
the garden sprayer and give it a two or three pumps.

Open one of you bleeder nipples to see if you get flow.  If you don't have
enough flow give the sprayer another pump.  Repeat the pumping process one
pump at a time untill you have sufficient flow.  Do not over pump the sprayer.
Once flow is established bleed your system.

Best regards,

Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Dec 20 09:39:26 2009
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 11:39:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Where to post.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W2353955B6B244272E838C7E5830@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W2353955B6B244272E838C7E5830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E0076F594D994AD09299177F90D58B8B@BobPC>

What TR are they for? British Car Forum & VTR cover all makes while 6-Pack 
focuses on TR250 & TR6.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 11:15 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Where to post.

> I have a couple of fixes I think it would be worthwhile posting to a 
> permanent
> site.  Can someone suggest a place for them?
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
> http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Dec 20 09:47:58 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 09:47:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Where to post.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W2353955B6B244272E838C7E5830@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W2353955B6B244272E838C7E5830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B2E553E.9040108@bradakis.com>

How about the Triumph forum at http://www.team.net/forums ?

mjb.

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Sun Dec 20 10:17:39 2009
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 09:17:39 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W25FE76DDE14A697F79CBFAE5830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <575666.75846.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

12/14
You can keep the blinkers and horn locations in original location on the
steering head if you use a "slip ring" on the column just above the top
universal joint.  The only disadvantage is that the outer part of the head
will rotate with the turning of the wheel, but the blinker lever and horn
button stay and function as intended.  Its like you didn't tighten the three
grub screws that keep the inner part of the head (blinker and horn button)
from turning with the wheel.  A slip ring is available from "Bastuck" a
European supplier in Germany (with a French location as well)  I purchased
mine at the end of 08 for the equivalent of $150.00.  I have a series of 32
color photos and a translation of the installation instructions if anyone is
interested.  It's a bit of a job to get all hooked up, but a very neat
solution. NFI
Dan Cronin

From: tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] Rack & pinion conversions for TR3's???
To: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz, triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, December 20, 2009, 11:11 AM



>because you install a complete new steering column you cannot keep the horn
or indicators in the middle of the steering wheel

You can maintain the center of the steering wheel location for the horn and
have column mounted turn signals by installing a TR4 steering column.  If you
are changing to R&P originality isn't an issue.  The TR4 column with a custom
wheel looks really good.

Best regards,

Tom

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 20 10:26:03 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 09:26:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] Pressure bleeder.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W383FAAE499D93DF4956946E5830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <62.DD.01550.C2E5E2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I saw a pressure bleeder on TV yesterday that gave me an 
> idea, God help us.

Similar devices are even available commercially.  But I'll offer a few
caveats:

1) Don't forget that conventional brake fluid goes stale, even if not
installed in a car.  Any remaining fluid in your fancy new power bleeder
should be discarded after you finish the brakes.

2) Are you certain that all the components in your garden sprayer are
compatible with brake fluif?  I'd be really pissed to discover that my
brakes failed because something in the sprayer contaminated the fluid.

3) Just how often do you have to bleed brakes, anyway?  Once I get the
hydraulics done right, I find I don't have to touch them for a long time.  I
even moved the calipers from TS39781LO to TS13571L without touching the
seals, because they still work perfectly some 100,000 miles after I last
replaced them.  (Of course, the DOT 5 fluid I use has something to do with
that.)  

4) Gravity bleeding works surprisingly well.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Dec 20 12:54:49 2009
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 14:54:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] How does the glass bee-hive stay on?
Message-ID: <E6F9393D076E4AEB84291D9EA52B50EE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

How does the glass bee-hive blinker globe stay on the car body?

It's a dumb question and I would have thought I'd be able to figure it out,
but I'm temporaily stuck.  I thought I would start the re-wiring process.
It's no wonder I'm so slow.

Also, I squeezed the blinker's rubber thru the hole inside of the trunk so
that it's partly outside and waiting for the glass globe.  I think this is
like the picture in the Moss Catalog.  I also have all the parts.  (I think)

Thanks, Paul          60 TR3

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Dec 20 13:28:25 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 13:28:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] How does the glass bee-hive stay on?
In-Reply-To: <E6F9393D076E4AEB84291D9EA52B50EE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <E6F9393D076E4AEB84291D9EA52B50EE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <CAE5B64BF31E4162A154BF42B6D9B80F@joepentiumnew>

The lens slips into a groove (flap) in the rubber base and is held there by
the chrome ring that is installed last.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 12:55 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] How does the glass bee-hive stay on?

How does the glass bee-hive blinker globe stay on the car body?

It's a dumb question and I would have thought I'd be able to figure it out,
but I'm temporaily stuck.  I thought I would start the re-wiring process.
It's no wonder I'm so slow.

Also, I squeezed the blinker's rubber thru the hole inside of the trunk so
that it's partly outside and waiting for the glass globe.  I think this is
like the picture in the Moss Catalog.  I also have all the parts.  (I think)

Thanks, Paul          60 TR3
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From mathews at uga.edu  Sun Dec 20 13:39:06 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 15:39:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] How does the glass bee-hive stay on?
In-Reply-To: <E6F9393D076E4AEB84291D9EA52B50EE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <E6F9393D076E4AEB84291D9EA52B50EE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <4B2E8B6A.3030702@uga.edu>

Paul,

the rubber has a slot in it that slips around the "flange" on the base 
of the globe.  If it is tough to get on, put some windex on it. My 
daughter in law could not get her ring off in pregnancy and she tried 
soap, etc and the jeweler told her they use windex.  She did and it came 
right off.

Doug

On 12/20/2009 2:54 PM, dorpaul wrote:
> How does the glass bee-hive blinker globe stay on the car body?
>
> It's a dumb question and I would have thought I'd be able to figure it out,
> but I'm temporaily stuck.  I thought I would start the re-wiring process.
> It's no wonder I'm so slow.
>
> Also, I squeezed the blinker's rubber thru the hole inside of the trunk so
> that it's partly outside and waiting for the glass globe.  I think this is
> like the picture in the Moss Catalog.  I also have all the parts.  (I think)
>
> Thanks, Paul          60 TR3

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 20 13:43:46 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 12:43:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] How does the glass bee-hive stay on?
In-Reply-To: <E6F9393D076E4AEB84291D9EA52B50EE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <F3.43.04641.28C8E2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> How does the glass bee-hive blinker globe stay on the car body?

There are two steps, the first step is that the rim of the globe fits under
a lip on the rubber boot.  Then the chrome trim ring goes over that, and
fits into a second, outer lip.

It does take a bit of a knack to install them, and I use a small flat blade
screwdriver with the sharp corners rounded to help.  What I do is stick one
side of the glass under the rubber lip, and then hold it there with one hand
while I use the screwdriver to slide between rubber and glass, to lift the
rubber lip over the edge of the glass.  Then repeat the process with the
chrome ring.

>  I thought I would start the 
> re-wiring process.

Just a thought, you might want to leave the lenses off until all the wiring
and lights are checked out and working.  I have managed to drop and break
one of those lenses, so it makes sense to me to leave them off until you're
certain the socket or bulb don't need to come out again.

Randall

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sun Dec 20 19:08:35 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 21:08:35 EST
Subject: [TR] tiny little tenax
Message-ID: <ce1.5d3696b2.386032a3@aol.com>

When I received TS981, it came with 15 baby Tenax.  I had 8 of them  
rechromed and used across the front of the cockpit for the tonneau cover.   At the 
time I had no idea how elusive and frustrating it would be to find  more.  
A few years ago I sent Mark Macy a stud and snap because he had  contacted a 
fellow in Cincinnati who thought he could made a reproduction of the  
"babies".  To be sure Mark and the machinist in Cincy contacted the Tenax  
company (yes they are still in business) and Tenax told them no and if you do we  
will come after you because of patent rights so that killed forever hopes of 
a  reproduction run.
 
In front of me are two Tenax snaps, a baby and the still available standard 
 size.  The base of the baby snap is 21 / 32" while the standard is 25 / 
32"  so a 1 / 8" difference.  When placed side by side it is readily  apparent 
which is the baby.  Making the stud is no problem - just  machine down the 
head of the standard size.  The hangup is making of the  snap! 
 
Now Frank, you understand why two certified TR2 crazies like Tom  
Householder and I jumped for the keyboard yesterday morning when you  said you had a 
stash of the elusive "babies".
 
Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 
 
In a message dated 12/20/2009 3:33:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

The ones  on the top are just original "lift the dot" pegs; not sure exactly
why they  are different from the taller reproductions, but I have them on my
cars as  well.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 20 22:07:28 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 21:07:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
Message-ID: <201367.83912.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Another idea concerning pressure bleeding the brake system that I've used is to get an old master cylinder plastic lid (for tr-6) and drill a hole in order to fit an air connection in it.  slip it in and glue with epoxy.  Then simply put on the lid and connect an air hose to air compressor and blow away. LOL  I suggest keeping the pressure around 3-4 pounds.  I recently did that but did find that my brake pedal feel was a little softer than expected.  I'm wondering if blowing pressure like that does introduce more small air bubbles into the fluid than one would expect.  microscopically?  not sure.  I'll be bleeding again in the spring to be sure.

Randall........I've heard of gravity bleeding before.  Is it as simple as it sounds?  One simply opens the valves and lets it go?  how long?  I might experiment with that......lol

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 20 22:15:08 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 21:15:08 -0800
Subject: [TR] tiny little tenax
In-Reply-To: <ce1.5d3696b2.386032a3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BC.EC.01550.C540F2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Tenax told them no and if you do we  
> will come after you because of patent rights 

You might want to check with a patent lawyer, Lou.  As I understand it, US
patent law cannot be used to make an invention unavailable.  That is to say,
the patent holder must either make and sell the product himself, or allow
someone else to make it (for a reasonable royalty, of course).  Their remedy
in court may be limited to having the court assign a reasonable royalty.

There is also the detail that a patent expires after 20 years ... a product
offered for sale over 50 years ago is almost certainly not protected by
patent today.

Randall

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun Dec 20 22:44:12 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 22:44:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] tiny little tenax
In-Reply-To: <BC.EC.01550.C540F2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <BC.EC.01550.C540F2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4B2F0B2C.2040906@dfn.com>

Randall wrote:
>> Tenax told them no and if you do we  
>> will come after you because of patent rights 
>>     
>
>
> There is also the detail that a patent expires after 20 years ... a product
> offered for sale over 50 years ago is almost certainly not protected by
> patent today.
>
>   
And, that 20-year limit is only with the advent of GATT, which took 
effect in 1995.  Prior to that, it was 17 years in the U.S., and British 
patents are not automatically protected here.  There was a 
grandfathering clause that extended patents still in effect for 20 
years, but, as you say, this item is certainly in the public domain.  
Long before they were used on TR3s, they were used on boats.  When I 
looked at the British patent office for how old the "TENAX" trademark 
was for manufactured metal goods, it goes back to 1910, and was issued 
to a steelmaker in Sheffield.  The current Tenax UK, Ltd., makes garden 
supplies, industrial plastic goods and medical devices. Chances are, 
someone in that office doesn't know what that doodad is, and issued the 
standard answer:  no.  And, the easiest way to defend an expired patent 
is to pretend it 's still in force.

Now, that's not to say that some independent manufacturer hasn't 
licensed the trademark, but, that's separate and apart from the patent(s).


Cheers.


-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Dec 20 22:50:35 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 22:50:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <201367.83912.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <201367.83912.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4517CBD4B5CF4D438D22739D36AB4110@bboffice>

Gary,
Gravity bleeding works the other way, open the reservoir cap and the bubbles
float to the surface.  Have never tried it, sounds a little suspicious, but
if you are planning on driving next year you should start now!
Bill 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 10:07 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder

Another idea concerning pressure bleeding the brake system that I've used is
to get an old master cylinder plastic lid (for tr-6) and drill a hole in
order to fit an air connection in it.  slip it in and glue with epoxy.  Then
simply put on the lid and connect an air hose to air compressor and blow
away. LOL  I suggest keeping the pressure around 3-4 pounds.  I recently did
that but did find that my brake pedal feel was a little softer than
expected.  I'm wondering if blowing pressure like that does introduce more
small air bubbles into the fluid than one would expect.  microscopically?
not sure.  I'll be bleeding again in the spring to be sure.

Randall........I've heard of gravity bleeding before.  Is it as simple as it
sounds?  One simply opens the valves and lets it go?  how long?  I might
experiment with that......lol

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Dec 20 23:49:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 22:49:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <201367.83912.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F7.17.04641.58A1F2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Randall........I've heard of gravity bleeding before.  Is it 
> as simple as it sounds?  One simply opens the valves and lets 
> it go?  how long?  

For the front brakes on my TR3, it took perhaps 15 minutes (I didn't really
check the time).  I cracked the bleed valve open and kept an eye on it while
I did other things; once there were no bubbles rising to the top, I closed
the valve.

I don't know that it would always work so well (I had already done the rear
brakes the old-fashioned way, by asking the wife to step on the pedal), but
it sure worked slick this time.  The pedal is high and the brakes work
great.

Randall

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Mon Dec 21 06:11:13 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:11:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] tiny little tenax
In-Reply-To: <ce1.5d3696b2.386032a3@aol.com>
References: <ce1.5d3696b2.386032a3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4B2F73F1.8030501@earthlink.net>

Just send them to China or Taiwan, they don't care about patent rights...

Loumetelko at aol.com wrote:
> When I received TS981, it came with 15 baby Tenax.  I had 8 of them  
> rechromed and used across the front of the cockpit for the tonneau cover.   At the 
> time I had no idea how elusive and frustrating it would be to find  more.  
> A few years ago I sent Mark Macy a stud and snap because he had  contacted a 
> fellow in Cincinnati who thought he could made a reproduction of the  
> "babies".  To be sure Mark and the machinist in Cincy contacted the Tenax  
> company (yes they are still in business) and Tenax told them no and if you do we  
> will come after you because of patent rights so that killed forever hopes of 
> a  reproduction run.
>  
> In front of me are two Tenax snaps, a baby and the still available standard 
>  size.  The base of the baby snap is 21 / 32" while the standard is 25 / 
> 32"  so a 1 / 8" difference.  When placed side by side it is readily  apparent 
> which is the baby.  Making the stud is no problem - just  machine down the 
> head of the standard size.  The hangup is making of the  snap! 
>  
> Now Frank, you understand why two certified TR2 crazies like Tom  
> Householder and I jumped for the keyboard yesterday morning when you  said you had a 
> stash of the elusive "babies".
>  
> Lou Metelko
> Auburn, Indiana
>  
>  
> In a message dated 12/20/2009 3:33:02 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:
>
> The ones  on the top are just original "lift the dot" pegs; not sure exactly
> why they  are different from the taller reproductions, but I have them on my
> cars as  well.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec 21 06:32:52 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:32:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F7.17.04641.58A1F2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <201367.83912.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B2F32B4.26233.45F7BE40@localhost>

On 20 Dec 2009 at 22:49, Randall wrote:

> I cracked the bleed valve open and kept an eye on it while
> I did other things; once there were no bubbles rising to
> the top, I closed the valve.

I've never had much trouble bleeding brakes but this sounds 
intriguing.  Lemme' get this straight.  You crack the valve just 
enough for fluif to leak out slowly (I'm assuming), and the action of 
the fluif downward through the line encourages any air to move upward 
too.

Oh boy, I love Opposite World! :-)

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From agmarshall at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 21 07:54:11 2009
From: agmarshall at hotmail.com (Austin Marshall)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 06:54:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <SNT129-W113CC772A827D337068471CD820@phx.gbl>

Find your  Christmas gift at  Ele-shop.com

CHRISTMAS DAY IS ON THE WAY !!
Merry Christmas Friends:
    Welcome to join our company member club , Everybody here can enjoy our products member price $B!$(Bwe have been received very high praise from our customers All customers can browse through our company's home page ele-shop.com . Our products ( laptopso,MobileoPhones,oPhotography,oPSP,oGPS,oElectronics.etc) all have low price and high quality in order to attract more new customers to cooperate with us .  Hope here is your shopping heaven!   
our Web:  ELE-shop.com 
our Email:eleshop2006 at gmail.com 

  		 	   		  
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Dec 21 08:36:20 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:36:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <SNT129-W113CC772A827D337068471CD820@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT129-W113CC772A827D337068471CD820@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4266C952C1954BAA927FC47D10585B16@bboffice>

Mark,
Who is this guy???
Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Austin Marshall
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 7:54 AM
To: snowbum34 at yahoo.com; britspts at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net;
vincent.daino at march.af.mil; wjbrad1 at aol.com
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)

Find your  Christmas gift at  Ele-shop.com

CHRISTMAS DAY IS ON THE WAY !!
Merry Christmas Friends:
    Welcome to join our company member club , Everybody here can enjoy our
products member price $B!$(Bwe have been received very high praise from
our customers All customers can browse through our company's home page
ele-shop.com . Our products (
laptopso,MobileoPhones,oPhotography,oPSP,oGPS,oElectronics.etc) all have low
price and high quality in order to attract more new customers to cooperate
with us .  Hope here is your shopping heaven!
our Web:  ELE-shop.com
our Email:eleshop2006 at gmail.com


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Dec 21 09:02:05 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 16:02:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] tiny little tenax
In-Reply-To: <BC.EC.01550.C540F2B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <919427179.3589551261411325282.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I think you can go ahead and make them in the USA.  Patent is probably not an issue.

What I suppose that you CAN'T do is use the "Tenax" name.  Copyright and trademark laws are different from patents.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: Loumetelko at aol.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 11:15:08 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] tiny little tenax
>
> > Tenax told them no and if you do we  
> > will come after you because of patent rights 
> 
> You might want to check with a patent lawyer, Lou.  As I understand
> it, US
> patent law cannot be used to make an invention unavailable.  That is
> to say,
> the patent holder must either make and sell the product himself, or
> allow
> someone else to make it (for a reasonable royalty, of course).  Their
> remedy
> in court may be limited to having the court assign a reasonable
> royalty.
> 
> There is also the detail that a patent expires after 20 years ... a
> product
> offered for sale over 50 years ago is almost certainly not protected
> by
> patent today.
> 
> Randall

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Mon Dec 21 09:47:07 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 16:47:07 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] tiny little tenax
In-Reply-To: <919427179.3589551261411325282.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <919427179.3589551261411325282.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <523850.66766.qm@web28301.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Phil Ethier wrote:

What I suppose that you CAN'T do is use the "Tenax" name. 
Probably not - but you could legally describe it as a tenax type of fastener.
Go lower case, remove the quotes and turn the proper noun into an adjective.
UK law allows that manoeuvre in the UK to describe something and without
breaking registered trademark names. Not sure if same applies in US.

Jonmac

From chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Dec 21 11:50:34 2009
From: chip19474 at aol.com (chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 13:50:34 EST
Subject: [TR] J-Type OD Question
Message-ID: <13db8.356657f4.38611d7a@aol.com>

transmission side but as Randall pointed out, it's not always necessary if  
you have enough clearance to swing by the trans case.....
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 12/19/2009 3:28:47 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dmnlaw at peoplepc.com writes:

Can  someone tell me if the copper washer for the speedometer angle drive 
goes on  the transmission side or the speedometer cable side. Thanks,

Doug  Nelson
74 TR6

________________________________________
PeoplePC  Online
A better way to  Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 21 12:45:44 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 11:45:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <4B2F32B4.26233.45F7BE40@localhost>
References: <201367.83912.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
	<4B2F32B4.26233.45F7BE40@localhost>
Message-ID: <B08C1A1A68904352B12BCC36E846EB5C@jdnet.deere.com>

> You crack the valve 
> just enough for fluif to leak out slowly (I'm assuming), and 
> the action of the fluif downward through the line encourages 
> any air to move upward too.

I won't swear to anything, but it appeared that bubbles in the small
diameter line were carried along with the fluid into the caliper.  Once
inside the relatively large chamber of the caliper, they eventually rose to
the top and out the bleed valve.

Don't recall how far I opened the bleed valve, but I don't think it's
critical.  Maybe a full turn.

-- Randall  

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Dec 21 13:08:58 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 15:08:58 EST
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
Message-ID: <bc9.60a671b2.38612fda@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/21/2009 8:01:35 AM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> Oh boy, I love Opposite World! :-)
> 
Me, too.

No, wait a minute, if this is opposite world then that means you hate it, 
right?

No, don't answer that.  I'm confused enough already.

Dave (I think)

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Mon Dec 21 15:03:13 2009
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 17:03:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] brake cleaner and mig/tig welding - safety message
Message-ID: <f99bbf590912211403w841f51cnbb73d2d0ff0c1dff@mail.gmail.com>

Ran across this link on a lathe site I'm a member of.  If you MIG or
TIG weld this is something you really need to be aware of.  It
certainly opened my eyes to the dangers involved.


http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

Brad

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 21 17:54:32 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 18:54:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <bc9.60a671b2.38612fda@cs.com>
References: <bc9.60a671b2.38612fda@cs.com>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W57AC2742EFC137018BDF94E1810@phx.gbl>

Dave1massey at cs.com said:

I'm confused enough already.


Dave,

I noticed that years ago.

Now that you noticed it too, you must be getting better! %^)

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Dec 21 19:17:32 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 18:17:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W57AC2742EFC137018BDF94E1810@phx.gbl>
References: <bc9.60a671b2.38612fda@cs.com>
	<SNT123-W57AC2742EFC137018BDF94E1810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2867C7987AD34E47818581B87099B5B8@jdnet.deere.com>

> Now that you noticed it too, you must be getting better! %^)

Sure hope it doesn't affect his piping!  Seems to me you'd have to be kind
of confused to play those things <G>

-- Randall  

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 21 19:56:59 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 20:56:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr3 paint
In-Reply-To: <575666.75846.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <575666.75846.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1E657F886742494AB8204497436BA0CF@ranteer.local>

hi, all.  happy holidays!!!!

mine is pretty special - my tr3, aka the restoration from hell, finally has 
paint!!!!  I'm so excited - it's salvador blue, a great color, and is coming 
along.

my question - they've painted the tub, and I'm wondering if the inner 
fenders etc are supposed to be buffed (glossy) or not.

thanks!!!!!

hopefully optimistic that I'll be at jekyll island . . . 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec 21 19:58:34 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:58:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <B08C1A1A68904352B12BCC36E846EB5C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <4B2F32B4.26233.45F7BE40@localhost>
Message-ID: <4B2FEF8A.3975.48D9652D@localhost>

On 21 Dec 2009 at 11:45, Randall wrote:

> it appeared that bubbles in the small diameter line were
> carried along with the fluid into the caliper.  Once inside
> the relatively large chamber of the caliper, they eventually
> rose to the top and out the bleed valve.

That makes sense.  I had read a previous note as saying the bubbles 
rose up through the lines with a gravity bleed.  It has always seemed 
to me that the tough part of the line is the vertical sweep down from 
the MC, for either brakes or clutch.  If at first you don't blow a 
bubble completely from that portion you'll push it down and it will 
rise right back up again.  If it doesn't emerge completely into the 
MC (and I'm not sure it would or wouldn't) you'd end up just pushing 
it downhill for it to roll back up again, so to speak.  Sisyphus 
ain't innit.  Once the bubble is in a horizontal section it has no 
reason to migrate back to the MC.

But what do I know?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 21 20:32:00 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:32:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 paint
Message-ID: <792594.94199.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

Oliver,
did you paint your car yourself?  I'm thinking of painting mine myself.  Just wondering what your experience was like.  I don't plan on buffing my inner wheel wells but haven't thought about it too much yet.  I'm in the lining up panels stage going into the bondo stage soon.

gary

From team.net at daveola.com  Mon Dec 21 20:34:12 2009
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 19:34:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] How does the glass bee-hive stay on?
In-Reply-To: <E6F9393D076E4AEB84291D9EA52B50EE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <E6F9393D076E4AEB84291D9EA52B50EE@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <E1NMvX0-0001xe-5B@davesource.com>

> How does the glass bee-hive blinker globe stay on the car body?


That's a difficult thing to get on.  Here's the trick I use:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Turn-Signal-Lens

Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
------------ Apart from that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play? -------------

From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Dec 21 20:38:47 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 22:38:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Waaaaay Off Topic
Message-ID: <4B303F47.9060908@uga.edu>

I need a rack for a  TV satellite  unit to mount above the tv in a 
cabinet enclosure. Right now it is below in a cabinet and I have to open 
the doors to the lower cabinet to let the receiver work, as well of 
course as open the doors to the tv.

I could probably make 1 but I don't want to spend the time, as I intend 
to get back to the 3B rebuild after Christmas.

Apologies to those who may feel I've wasted your bandwidth!

Merry Christmas to all no matter what!

Thanks in advance

Doug

From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz  Mon Dec 21 20:46:36 2009
From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (T S Hardy)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 16:46:36 +1300
Subject: [TR] Silly season...
Message-ID: <3B345E09BF5B4E3D8D45781D698AC6CE@DRESANPC>

Hi Listers...
   I'd just like to pass on my sincerest Best Wishes to ALL listers for a
fantastic Christmas and prosporous 2010.
  I get some fabulous tips from the corespondence, and enjoy EVERYTHING that
is contributed.
  Down here in New Zealand, the temperature today is around 24, and we have
blue skies, and for a change..NO WIND!!
        Was up at New Plymouth over the weekend to attend a Fleetwood Mac
concert. It rained all night, but who cares?!! FABUOUS, and then some.... Have
a good one people......Regards...Trev. Hardy.... 90% TR4A

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Dec 21 21:16:14 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:16:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Waaaaay Off Topic
In-Reply-To: <4B303F47.9060908@uga.edu>
References: <4B303F47.9060908@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <4B30480E.5090004@bradakis.com>

Doug Mathews wrote:
> I need a rack for a  TV satellite  unit to mount above the tv in a 
> cabinet enclosure.
As a reminder I'll mention that there is a list shop-talk at autox.team.net
that discusses stuff like this, home improvements, pest control, welding,
all sorts of do it yourself type stuff.  A fair number of you already
subscribe, there might be some others unaware of that particular resource.

Go to http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo and scroll down to the
shop-talk link if interested.  You can browse recent posts at the Team.Net
archive at http://www.team.net/archive and see if it might happen to be
your cup of tea.


mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Dec 21 21:37:31 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:37:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <4266C952C1954BAA927FC47D10585B16@bboffice>
References: <SNT129-W113CC772A827D337068471CD820@phx.gbl>
	<4266C952C1954BAA927FC47D10585B16@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4B304D0B.9090709@bradakis.com>

wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Mark,
> Who is this guy???
> Bill
>   
The address used for the commercial was a valid one, subscribed to a few 
of the
Team.Net lists.  Most likely it was the real owner of that address that 
sent the
spam but someone who was able to get access to his address somehow.  It only
hit the Triumph list, not the others to which the most likely innocent 
victim
was subscribed.


mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Dec 21 21:52:48 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:52:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <4B304D0B.9090709@bradakis.com>
References: <SNT129-W113CC772A827D337068471CD820@phx.gbl>
	<4266C952C1954BAA927FC47D10585B16@bboffice>
	<4B304D0B.9090709@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4B3050A0.2010208@bradakis.com>

Doh!
>   Most likely it was  *NOT* real owner of that address that sent the
>
> spam but someone who was able to get access to his address somehow.



mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Dec 21 22:08:15 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 22:08:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Silly season...
In-Reply-To: <3B345E09BF5B4E3D8D45781D698AC6CE@DRESANPC>
References: <3B345E09BF5B4E3D8D45781D698AC6CE@DRESANPC>
Message-ID: <4B30543F.1030702@bradakis.com>

>   Down here in New Zealand, the temperature today is around 24, and we have
> blue skies, and for a change..NO WIND!!
>   

I hate you!  Here in Salt Lake City up in the northern hemisphere we 
have a nice,
cold, dreary winter inversion.  Gray and miserable.  Yuck.

For those of you not conversant with degrees centigrade, 24 translates 
to about 75
degrees Fahrenheit.  If you can't remember the exact formula, double the 
degrees
C and add 30 to get you in the ball park.

24 x 2 = 48   48 + 30 = 78 which is close enough to the actual 75.2  F 
conversion
that you should know whether you need a coat or not.


mjb.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 22 05:48:52 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 07:48:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-W57AC2742EFC137018BDF94E1810@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT123-W57AC2742EFC137018BDF94E1810@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC511C3FBB727D-40E0-9D7F@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>

 What tipped you off?? The fact that I restore old British cars or the fact
that I think I can restore old British cars?

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Rich White &lt;rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com&gt;
To: Dave Massey &lt;dave1massey at cs.com&gt;; TR owners List
&lt;triumphs at autox.team.net&gt;
Sent: Mon, Dec 21, 2009 6:54 pm
Subject: RE: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder

       Dave1massey at cs.com?said:
 I'm?confused enough already.

 Dave,
 I noticed that years ago.?
 Now that you noticed it too, you must be getting better! %^)

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!



                      =

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 22 06:13:38 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 08:13:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <4B2FEF8A.3975.48D9652D@localhost>
References: <4B2FEF8A.3975.48D9652D@localhost>
Message-ID: <8CC511FB5B67495-40E0-A207@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>

 Just a guess but maybe those bubbles were the bubbles rising from the bleed
tube in the jar under the car.

But what do I know, I'm confused.

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Muller &lt;jimmuller at rcn.com&gt;

I had read a previous note as saying the bubbles
rose up through the lines with a gravity bleed.

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 22 06:08:58 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 08:08:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <2867C7987AD34E47818581B87099B5B8@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <2867C7987AD34E47818581B87099B5B8@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <8CC511F0E6FC38D-40E0-A118@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>

 And that's different than playing with 40 year old cars how?

;-)





-----Original Message-----
From: Randall &lt;tr3driver at ca.rr.com&gt;

&gt; Now that you noticed it too, you must be getting better! %^)

Sure hope it doesn't affect his piping!  Seems to me you'd have to be kind
of confused to play those things &lt;G&gt;

-- Randall

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Dec 22 07:19:45 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 09:19:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] Silly season...
In-Reply-To: <4B30543F.1030702@bradakis.com>
References: <3B345E09BF5B4E3D8D45781D698AC6CE@DRESANPC>
	<4B30543F.1030702@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <C399280CE0B2424FA298CF67159E146C@CarlPC>

for the anal...
actual formula is
from C to F    temp/5 * 9 +32
from F to C    (temp - 32) / 9 * 5 + 32
one of those few things I remember from high school

24 / 5 =4.8 * 9 = 43.2 + 32  =  75.2

The '3 is at the painters.  he is cleaning/degreasing today; first two coats 
tomorrow.  Then we see how good my body work is.

It will be finished probably late next week but not coming home until in the 
new year.

Talk about excited....   Not the restoration from He*** experienced by 
Oliver - but it is now going into year #9 of a three year plan....

To all - have a very Merry Christmas or very Happy Hanukah.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(I need to upload some new pix)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Silly season...


>>   Down here in New Zealand, the temperature today is around 24, and we 
>> have
>> blue skies, and for a change..NO WIND!!
>>
>
> I hate you!  Here in Salt Lake City up in the northern hemisphere we have 
> a nice,
> cold, dreary winter inversion.  Gray and miserable.  Yuck.
>
> For those of you not conversant with degrees centigrade, 24 translates to 
> about 75
> degrees Fahrenheit.  If you can't remember the exact formula, double the 
> degrees
> C and add 30 to get you in the ball park.
>
> 24 x 2 = 48   48 + 30 = 78 which is close enough to the actual 75.2  F 
> conversion
> that you should know whether you need a coat or not.
>
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Dec 22 07:22:50 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 09:22:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <8CC511F0E6FC38D-40E0-A118@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>
References: <2867C7987AD34E47818581B87099B5B8@jdnet.deere.com>
	<8CC511F0E6FC38D-40E0-A118@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <ECB89A9999ED4541BF6D54282B6000EB@CarlPC>

You (well maybe you would Dave) don't play with 40 year old cars in a 
'skirt'....
:)
(no offense meant to our distaff members)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 8:08 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder


> And that's different than playing with 40 year old cars how?
>
> ;-)
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Randall &lt;tr3driver at ca.rr.com&gt;
>
> &gt; Now that you noticed it too, you must be getting better! %^)
>
> Sure hope it doesn't affect his piping!  Seems to me you'd have to be kind
> of confused to play those things &lt;G&gt;
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com  Tue Dec 22 07:24:53 2009
From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 09:24:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Re-chroming bumpers :: NJ
Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252718822307@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

Anybody have recommendations / budgetary prices to have bumpers re-chromed?
Would prefer shop in NJ area but am flexible.

Thank you

Peter
551-427-1178

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Dec 22 07:53:24 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 09:53:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <8CC511FB5B67495-40E0-A207@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>
References: <4B2FEF8A.3975.48D9652D@localhost>
Message-ID: <4B309714.16403.4B67D4B3@localhost>

On 22 Dec 2009 at 8:13, dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

>  Just a guess but maybe those bubbles were the bubbles rising
> from the bleed tube in the jar under the car.

I really prefer bubbles rising in something brewed from barley.

> But what do I know, I'm confused.

We can do something about that.  We'll start with a few banjo notes.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue Dec 22 07:57:39 2009
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 09:57:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] Re-chroming bumpers :: NJ
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252718822307@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C24252718822307@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <2FCB26850404417785E62C74884A1A34@AlexPC>

Librandi's in Harrisburg. One of the best in the Tri-State area.
http://www.carchrome.com/
Alex
72 TR6 rechromed

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dachnowicz, Peter" <DACHNOWP at APTEA.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: [TR] Re-chroming bumpers :: NJ


> Anybody have recommendations / budgetary prices to have bumpers 
> re-chromed?
> Would prefer shop in NJ area but am flexible.
>
> Thank you
>
> Peter
> 551-427-1178
> _______________________________________________

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Dec 22 08:37:14 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 09:37:14 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Re-chroming bumpers :: NJ
Message-ID: <1617428103.221574.1261496234716.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net>

Alex,

I have a 72 TR6 myself.  What did you have chromed at Librandi's and how much did it cost?  Did you dropoff or ship?

Thanks for the information, good chromers are hard to find.

Craig
72 TR6

On Dec 22, 2009, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote: 

Librandi's in Harrisburg. One of the best in the Tri-State area.
http://www.carchrome.com/
Alex
72 TR6 rechromed

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dachnowicz, Peter" <DACHNOWP at APTEA.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 9:24 AM
Subject: [TR] Re-chroming bumpers :: NJ


> Anybody have recommendations / budgetary prices to have bumpers 
> re-chromed?
> Would prefer shop in NJ area but am flexible.
>
> Thank you
>
> Peter
> 551-427-1178
> _______________________________________________
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 22 09:30:56 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 08:30:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <8CC511F0E6FC38D-40E0-A118@webmail-m017.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <F3.65.01550.044F03B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

>  And that's different than playing with 40 year old cars how?

Not much, now that you mention it!

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Dec 22 10:03:43 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 17:03:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Re-chroming bumpers :: NJ
In-Reply-To: <197344641.4605431261501366897.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <605735530.4605811261501423046.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Peter, if you have to ship anyway, I would REALLY recommend Space Coast Plating in Melbourne, Florida. I have my TR3 windshield braces there now and the valve cover - $80 each for the braces and $125 for the valve covers. THey are only a couple of weeks backed up on little stuff and a couple of months for bumpers. They did my 3 front bumper and windshield surround 3 years ago and do really nice - heavy - chroming. 
www. spacecoast - plating .com/ give then a call or email for a quote. 
Tom 

Subject: [TR] Re-chroming bumpers :: NJ 

Anybody have recommendations / budgetary prices to have bumpers re-chromed? 
Would prefer shop in NJ area but am flexible. 

Thank you 

Peter 
551-427-1178 

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 22 11:40:19 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 13:40:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <ECB89A9999ED4541BF6D54282B6000EB@CarlPC>
References: <ECB89A9999ED4541BF6D54282B6000EB@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <8CC514D588FD14A-6364-4B4E5@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com>

 You know why it's called a "kilt?"? Because men have been "kilt" for calling
it a skirt.

;-)

Dave





-----Original Message-----
From: Carl TR &lt;cfmtr3a at verizon.net&gt;
To: dave1massey at cs.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Dec 22, 2009 8:22 am
Subject: Re: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder

   You (well maybe you would Dave) don't play with 40 year old cars in a
'skirt'....?
 :)?
 (no offense meant to our distaff members)?
?

From dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Dec 22 11:46:58 2009
From: dave1massey at cs.com (dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 13:46:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] randall and pressure bleeder
In-Reply-To: <F3.65.01550.044F03B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <F3.65.01550.044F03B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CC514E464BEF87-6364-4B6C7@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com>

 Just like golf and fishing, all it does is use up available time and money.?
In the end there's no point to it other than enjoyment.





-----Original Message-----
From: Randall &lt;tr3driver at ca.rr.com&gt;

&gt;  And that's different than playing with 40 year old cars how?

Not much, now that you mention it!

=

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 22 11:51:16 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 10:51:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] Silly season...
In-Reply-To: <C399280CE0B2424FA298CF67159E146C@CarlPC>
References: <3B345E09BF5B4E3D8D45781D698AC6CE@DRESANPC><4B30543F.1030702@bradakis.com>
	<C399280CE0B2424FA298CF67159E146C@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <344710526D184E47B4512ED5705F406B@jdnet.deere.com>

> for the anal...
> actual formula is
> from C to F    temp/5 * 9 +32
> from F to C    (temp - 32) / 9 * 5 + 32
> one of those few things I remember from high school

Well, if you're going to be anal about it, your formula for F=>C is wrong.
The "+ 32" on the end should not be there.

I prefer (temp - 32) * 5 / 9 anyway, as there is only a fraction involved in
the final step (making it easier to do in my head).

-- Randall  

From smacsjunk at hotmail.com  Tue Dec 22 11:55:28 2009
From: smacsjunk at hotmail.com (scotts junk)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 12:55:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] Silly season...
In-Reply-To: <4B30543F.1030702@bradakis.com>
References: <3B345E09BF5B4E3D8D45781D698AC6CE@DRESANPC>,
	<4B30543F.1030702@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <SNT109-W5548DC93E514E3DE5802C9BA810@phx.gbl>

Now now Mark - let's stay in the spirit of the season. Just 'cause it's crappy
in Utah don't mean somebody else ain't got it worse... like the linked picture
we pulled in off one of our highway monitors up north showing a B-train
forming a contrail in the frosty air You can get a clue how far north by
checking across the road to see where the dish for the satellite link is aimed
- let's just say Santa's fuel supply will arrive shortly.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42376719 at N05/4206921142/



cheers

Scott

> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2009 22:08:15 -0700
> From: mark at bradakis.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Silly season...
>
> > Down here in New Zealand, the temperature today is around 24, and we have
> > blue skies, and for a change..NO WIND!!
> >
>
> I hate you! Here in Salt Lake City up in the northern hemisphere we
> have a nice,
> cold, dreary winter inversion. Gray and miserable. Yuck.
>
> For those of you not conversant with degrees centigrade, 24 translates
> to about 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on
Facebook.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9691816

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Dec 22 12:27:22 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 14:27:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] Silly season...
In-Reply-To: <344710526D184E47B4512ED5705F406B@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <3B345E09BF5B4E3D8D45781D698AC6CE@DRESANPC><4B30543F.1030702@bradakis.com>
	<C399280CE0B2424FA298CF67159E146C@CarlPC>
	<344710526D184E47B4512ED5705F406B@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <72119C8E048D4B369C8AE0C659FD58D0@CarlPC>

oops..   guilty of poor copy/paste....   and yes your version is easier... 
will have to remember it.
Thanks

:)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 1:51 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Silly season...


>> for the anal...
>> actual formula is
>> from C to F    temp/5 * 9 +32
>> from F to C    (temp - 32) / 9 * 5 + 32
>> one of those few things I remember from high school
>
> Well, if you're going to be anal about it, your formula for F=>C is wrong.
> The "+ 32" on the end should not be there.
>
> I prefer (temp - 32) * 5 / 9 anyway, as there is only a fraction involved 
> in
> the final step (making it easier to do in my head).
>
> -- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 22 16:50:33 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 15:50:33 -0800
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <4B304D0B.9090709@bradakis.com>
References: <SNT129-W113CC772A827D337068471CD820@phx.gbl><4266C952C1954BAA927FC47D10585B16@bboffice>
	<4B304D0B.9090709@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <490C14E1A4494102A175EC19225C8430@jdnet.deere.com>

> It only hit the Triumph list, not the others to which the 
> most likely innocent victim was subscribed.

At the risk of being tedious, how is that possible?  Doesn't the server only
allow posts to subscribed lists?

Or do you really only have to subscribe to one list in order to spam any of
the others?

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 22 17:00:11 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 16:00:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] Waaaaay Off Topic
In-Reply-To: <4B303F47.9060908@uga.edu>
References: <4B303F47.9060908@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <96B5EB83E1F442549ACD875356EABCFF@jdnet.deere.com>

> I need a rack for a  TV satellite  unit to mount above the tv 
> in a cabinet enclosure. Right now it is below in a cabinet 
> and I have to open the doors to the lower cabinet to let the 
> receiver work, as well of course as open the doors to the tv.

Should be any number of closet-type shelving solutions at your local "home
center" store that would work for this.

But it seems to me you could roll your own just about as quick.  Buy one of
those vinyl-covered pulpboard shelves in a finish and width suitable to your
cabinet, cut it off shorter if necessary for a snug fit to the sides, then
anchor it with either drywall screws from the outside (strong but
potentially ugly), or drill inside for pegs (as used in many bookshelves).

-- Randall  

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Dec 22 22:55:55 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 05:55:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <1979358865.4282681261547743441.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1922758348.4282731261547755022.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2009 5:50:33 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)
>
> > It only hit the Triumph list, not the others to which the 
> > most likely innocent victim was subscribed.
> 
> At the risk of being tedious, how is that possible?  Doesn't the
> server only
> allow posts to subscribed lists?
> 
> Or do you really only have to subscribe to one list in order to spam
> any of
> the others?
> 
> -- Randall

Time to re-enroll in that reading-comprehension course, Randall?  :-)

The "most likely innocent victim" was legitimately subscribed to several lists.  At least that's the way I read Mark's post.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 22 23:20:27 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 22:20:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <1922758348.4282731261547755022.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2C.3E.01550.BA6B13B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> The "most likely innocent victim" was legitimately subscribed 
> to several lists.  At least that's the way I read Mark's post.

Yes, but not subscribed to the list that actually got the spam.  That's the
part I don't understand.

Would I (or someone using my email address) be able to post to the Lotus
forum, just because I'm subscribed to several other lists?  I thought not
... I used to get error messages when I tried to reply to 6pack, for
example, because I'm not subscribed to 6pack.

Randall

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed Dec 23 03:44:49 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 05:44:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
References: <2C.3E.01550.BA6B13B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <E2EE6AAEC84B495D855081A7F0B1CCA3@mde.state.md.us>

A few years ago a spambot or someone with an infected computer had my email 
addressand was posting in autox forums I was not subscribed to, as well as 
forums I was subscribed to.  Yes, it can and does happen.




----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 1:20 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)


>> The "most likely innocent victim" was legitimately subscribed
>> to several lists.  At least that's the way I read Mark's post.
>
> Yes, but not subscribed to the list that actually got the spam.  That's 
> the
> part I don't understand.
>
> Would I (or someone using my email address) be able to post to the Lotus
> forum, just because I'm subscribed to several other lists?  I thought not
> ... I used to get error messages when I tried to reply to 6pack, for
> example, because I'm not subscribed to 6pack.
>
> Randall

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 23 06:48:39 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 07:48:39 -0600
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <E2EE6AAEC84B495D855081A7F0B1CCA3@mde.state.md.us>
References: <2C.3E.01550.BA6B13B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>,
	<E2EE6AAEC84B495D855081A7F0B1CCA3@mde.state.md.us>
Message-ID: <SNT123-W323BC928A4CF6885DF1C46E1800@phx.gbl>

> A few years ago a spambot or someone with an infected computer had my email
> addressand was posting in autox forums I was not subscribed to, as well as
> forums I was subscribed to. Yes, it can and does happen.


Nolan,



I remember that.  I ended up blocking your email for a while.



>From your message, I take it that the problem was not on you computer.

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Dec 23 08:51:27 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 15:51:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <2C.3E.01550.BA6B13B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1329038252.4353871261583487717.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 12:20:27 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject)
>
> > The "most likely innocent victim" was legitimately subscribed 
> > to several lists.  At least that's the way I read Mark's post.
> 
> Yes, but not subscribed to the list that actually got the spam. 
> That's the
> part I don't understand.

I missed that part.  How do you know this?

Do you know what lists I am subcribed to?
 
> Would I (or someone using my email address) be able to post to the
> Lotus
> forum, just because I'm subscribed to several other lists?  I thought
> not
> ... I used to get error messages when I tried to reply to 6pack, for
> example, because I'm not subscribed to 6pack.
> 
> Randall

I still get error messages when I don't pay enough attention and post a reply to 6pack.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 23 09:06:38 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 08:06:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <1329038252.4353871261583487717.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AA.13.01550.E00423B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> > Yes, but not subscribed to the list that actually got the spam. 
> > That's the
> > part I don't understand.
> 
> I missed that part.  How do you know this?

Well, possibly I did misinterpret Mark's comment.  But the list web site
allows list members to view all of the addresses subscribed to that list;
and I did not see that address on the Triumphs list.

> Do you know what lists I am subcribed to?

Only for the lists that I am subscribed to.  For example, you are on
autojumble, but not on single-malt (at least not with this email address and
not unless you have asked to have your address hidden from others).

Check out the second link from the bottom of every list message.

Randall

From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com  Wed Dec 23 10:36:29 2009
From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 09:36:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] Removing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <E6.A7.01550.415862B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
References: <001501ca7ce2$64123b50$2c36b1f0$@griffing@comcast.net>
	<E6.A7.01550.415862B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <003301ca83f6$77874e30$6695ea90$@com>

I am in the process of replacing my cylinder head studs with ARP studs. A
stud sheared off and blew the head gasket, so I think it's time to replace
them all. I got the broken stud piece out of the block with left-handed
cobalt bits, no easyouts needed. It worked great.

I have been able to remove 9 out of 10 studs. Several of them came out using
an 8" pipe wrench, hammering and a few days of repeated soaking with PB
Blaster. Some more came out with by heating the base of the stud with a
propane torch, cooling down and then going at it with the pipe wrench and PB
Blaster. 

I still have one stubborn stud left.  It is one of the long ones on the
manifold side. I was thinking of welding on a nut to the end of the stud and
using a breaker bar, but I really don't want to shear it off in the block. I
am wondering if I should just leave this stud in and replace the rest.

Does anyone have any advice on getting this last one out?

Roger Wilson
'60 TR3  
 

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 4712 (20091223) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

From bzw8 at cdc.gov  Wed Dec 23 11:10:04 2009
From: bzw8 at cdc.gov (Wages, Jeffrey (CDC/CCHIS/NCHM))
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 13:10:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Early TR6 frame conversion for J-type overdrive
Message-ID: <54E105DA7539D245AEB5FBFC8C82BFB828DED6@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov>

Hi all,

I am embarking on a frame swap on my '73 TR6 with J-type Overdrive. I
have an early frame (69 or 70) which I need to convert to allow the
J-type. I had planned to purchase a kit from QuantumMechanics.com but
then I had an idea. Could I cut/grind off the old mount on my existing
73 frame and re-weld it onto the early frame at the proper location?
Does this sound feasible? Anyone ever seen this done?

Many thanks and Happy Holidays!

Jeff
Atlanta
'73 TR6
'71 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 23 12:41:22 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 11:41:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] Early TR6 frame conversion for J-type overdrive
In-Reply-To: <54E105DA7539D245AEB5FBFC8C82BFB828DED6@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov>
References: <54E105DA7539D245AEB5FBFC8C82BFB828DED6@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov>
Message-ID: <B417C09341DD4AC28E7FCF054F09BC00@jdnet.deere.com>

> Could I 
> cut/grind off the old mount on my existing
> 73 frame and re-weld it onto the early frame at the proper location?

I have no idea, but this article might help.  Looks like a very easy
fabrication from just some angle iron and rubber shock mounts (available new
at most auto parts stores).  

The article won't make it through the list, so if anyone else wants a copy,
please email me off-list.  I think it's also on the Buckeye Triumphs web
site, but I can't access the web site at the moment (possibly my employer
has it blocked).

-- Randall  

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Adapting J Type Overdrives to early TR6 frames.pdf]

From tr4a2712 at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 23 13:05:35 2009
From: tr4a2712 at yahoo.com (Cosmo Kramer)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 12:05:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Hi All!
Message-ID: <733399.77942.qm@web51601.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Happy Holidays!

I would like to take this time (because I'm at a library
computor for this month's readings) to wish ALL of you members & the TRIUMPH
community Happy Holidays (because some may NOT be celebrating Christmas)& a
prosperous New Year!

I've met some GREAT people in my travels this year, &
have (UNFORTUNATELY) have misplaced many of the addresses that I have received
from you all. So, I would greatly appreciate it if you would send me your
E-mail/snail mail/phone# for me to place in my TRIUMPH phone book!

If you
wish to phone me at my home # 716-438-3769 (remember that I'm NOT on line at
home), I can then receive the your number (from you) & phone you right back.
Because:
1.  I don't have the answering machine working, so you'll have to
speak to me.
2.  If you phone me & I'm not home at that time, then you won't
have to pay long distance charges to speak to a machine.

Thanks & sorry for
the disruption in you list conversations.

BTW-FYI: I've sent my 'TR4/A E-mail
manual' to VTR so they could distribute it to anyone who wishes it. The
'manual' consists of anything, that has been discussed on this list in the
past 10 yr., related to the TR4 & TR4A car. It is broken down as the Moss
Motor's catalog is, & then broken down further in to other finer topics that
relate to that folder. I also have placed other manuals that I have obtained
off the inter-net (like the 'A-type OD', Haynes, ect.), that other people may
have not had a chance to download because of lack of knowledge of knowing that
it is on the inter-net. OR You can phone me or E-mail me to obtain one. I
would like to be reimbursed for the cost of mailing & for the blank CD's that
I have purchased.

Again, The best wishes to ALL!
 -Cosmo Kramer

From loumetelko at aol.com  Wed Dec 23 15:44:36 2009
From: loumetelko at aol.com (loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 17:44:36 EST
Subject: [TR] Looking for Don Elliott
Message-ID: <b0f0.6f0e8a65.3863f754@aol.com>

Don:
Please contact Lou Metelko, I have a favor to ask
 
Lou
loumetelko at aol.com

From one_second_zero at yahoo.com  Wed Dec 23 16:02:36 2009
From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 15:02:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6
Message-ID: <29006.14587.qm@web50605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I realize this question probably isn't new, but I was thinking about buying
some Konig Rewind (panasport knockoff) wheels for my 76 TR6.  I'm thinking
about going with the 16x7 size.   I found a vendor selling the 16x7 size with
the 114.3 bolt pattern for $525/set which seems like a decent price (unless
you guys know of a cheaper source).    For tires, I didn't want to go too wide
for fear of clearance issues.   I found a great high performance tire I
like in size 205/55ZR16.  It has a 24.9 diameter which is more than an inch
shorter than oem redlines, but I've also lowered the car somewhat with an
aftermarket suspension (Goodparts), so maybe the shorter diameter won't look
too bad.  What do you think of that size?  When I started looking at taller
aspect sidewalls, I found my choices in the sticky high performance tires
dwindled away and left me with all-season type street tires to choose from
(which are probably still head and shoulders
 better than my ancient redlines).  Anyone else running this size tire and
wheel that can comment on your experience?  Appreciate any advice.
 
Thanks, Greg H

From L1J1S at aol.com  Wed Dec 23 16:06:16 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 18:06:16 EST
Subject: [TR] greetings
Message-ID: <bd0.686bfbad.3863fc68@aol.com>

to the list, season greetings and a happy new year to all.  larry  schwartz

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Dec 23 16:15:12 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 18:15:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] Removing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <003301ca83f6$77874e30$6695ea90$@com>
References: <001501ca7ce2$64123b50$2c36b1f0$@griffing@comcast.net>
	<E6.A7.01550.415862B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<003301ca83f6$77874e30$6695ea90$@com>
Message-ID: <200912231815.12634.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 23 December 2009 12:36:29 pm Roger Wilson wrote:
> I am in the process of replacing my cylinder head studs with ARP studs. A
> stud sheared off and blew the head gasket, so I think it's time to replace
> them all. I got the broken stud piece out of the block with left-handed
> cobalt bits, no easyouts needed. It worked great.
> 
> I have been able to remove 9 out of 10 studs. Several of them came out
>  using an 8" pipe wrench, hammering and a few days of repeated soaking with
>  PB Blaster. Some more came out with by heating the base of the stud with a
>  propane torch, cooling down and then going at it with the pipe wrench and
>  PB Blaster.
> 
> I still have one stubborn stud left.  It is one of the long ones on the
> manifold side. I was thinking of welding on a nut to the end of the stud
>  and using a breaker bar, but I really don't want to shear it off in the
>  block. I am wondering if I should just leave this stud in and replace the
>  rest.
> 
> Does anyone have any advice on getting this last one out?
> 
> Roger Wilson
> '60 TR3
> 
> 
Roger,

Here is a trick I learned on this list.

Double nut the stud and heat the block if you can as hot as you dare.

Then apply wax to the stud and let it sit for a few minutes. Then try to cool 
the block with ice.

Using a impact wrench on low torque and gradually increasing torque, try a few 
short blasts. 

It has always worked for me in the past.

I have also welded nuts in the past and that works great if the double nut 
slips.



Bob

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Dec 23 16:55:18 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 18:55:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Removing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <200912231815.12634.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <E6.A7.01550.415862B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<003301ca83f6$77874e30$6695ea90$@com>
	<200912231815.12634.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <a38798b30912231555v57afe3b4j9336c0cef90b5daa@mail.gmail.com>

If it were me, I'd leave it and replace the rest.

Brian
TR4 CT14455L (now OD)

On Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 6:15 PM, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> On Wednesday 23 December 2009 12:36:29 pm Roger Wilson wrote:
> > I am in the process of replacing my cylinder head studs with ARP studs. A
> > stud sheared off and blew the head gasket, so I think it's time to
> replace
> > them all. I got the broken stud piece out of the block with left-handed
> > cobalt bits, no easyouts needed. It worked great.
> >
> > I have been able to remove 9 out of 10 studs. Several of them came out
> >  using an 8" pipe wrench, hammering and a few days of repeated soaking
> with
> >  PB Blaster. Some more came out with by heating the base of the stud with
> a
> >  propane torch, cooling down and then going at it with the pipe wrench
> and
> >  PB Blaster.
> >
> > I still have one stubborn stud left.  It is one of the long ones on the
> > manifold side. I was thinking of welding on a nut to the end of the stud
> >  and using a breaker bar, but I really don't want to shear it off in the
> >  block. I am wondering if I should just leave this stud in and replace
> the
> >  rest.
> >
> > Does anyone have any advice on getting this last one out?
> >
> > Roger Wilson
> > '60 TR3
> >
> >
> Roger,
>
> Here is a trick I learned on this list.
>
> Double nut the stud and heat the block if you can as hot as you dare.
>
> Then apply wax to the stud and let it sit for a few minutes. Then try to
> cool
> the block with ice.
>
> Using a impact wrench on low torque and gradually increasing torque, try a
> few
> short blasts.
>
> It has always worked for me in the past.
>
> I have also welded nuts in the past and that works great if the double nut
> slips.
>
>
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Dec 23 17:20:06 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 17:20:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Removing Head Studs
In-Reply-To: <003301ca83f6$77874e30$6695ea90$@com>
References: <001501ca7ce2$64123b50$2c36b1f0$@griffing@comcast.net>
	<E6.A7.01550.415862B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<003301ca83f6$77874e30$6695ea90$@com>
Message-ID: <67CF70B7-D46D-47F4-AE65-303CFDFE00CD@comcast.net>

Roger,

Buy a stud remover like this one http://www.toolsource.com/stud-remover-32526-p-63350.html 
  (it works with a notched steel cam that grabs the stud and is turned  
with a 1/2 inch socket wrench) or rent or borrow one from one of the  
parts stores.   Those studs don't stand a chance when you put this  
tool to work.  Also its great for installing your studs to the block  
using with all the same torque settings (didn't take much--- 4 ft/lbs  
I believe ARP recommended).

I did the ARP studs when I rebuilt my head (1969 TR6 Circle B head  
that measures 3.461 inches) and am very happy with them although it  
getting at least one or two threads (the tapered threads) showing when  
the nuts were put on and torqued down was worrisome but it did  
happen.  You have to use their washers (0.118 inches) and that almost  
was too much stuff to fit on the stud and get the nut on with all  
threads holding to other threads securely  (the top couple threads are  
a bit tapered and are "guides" not holding threads).   The payen head  
gasket (AG900 for you TR6 folks) was 0.045 inches so it was real  
close.  I wouldn't leave one old stud in the head and the rest ARPs.    
Seems like inviting trouble (oil and water leaks) to me.  ARP is real  
specific about using their lube and their washers and torqueing them  
into the block correctly so that tells me the details are important.    
Maybe better to use stock studs all around if you can't get the last  
one out.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Dec 23, 2009, at 10:36 AM, Roger Wilson wrote:

> I am in the process of replacing my cylinder head studs with ARP  
> studs. A
> stud sheared off and blew the head gasket, so I think it's time to  
> replace
> them all. I got the broken stud piece out of the block with left- 
> handed
> cobalt bits, no easyouts needed. It worked great.
>
> I have been able to remove 9 out of 10 studs. Several of them came  
> out using
> an 8" pipe wrench, hammering and a few days of repeated soaking with  
> PB
> Blaster. Some more came out with by heating the base of the stud  
> with a
> propane torch, cooling down and then going at it with the pipe  
> wrench and PB
> Blaster.
>
> I still have one stubborn stud left.  It is one of the long ones on  
> the
> manifold side. I was thinking of welding on a nut to the end of the  
> stud and
> using a breaker bar, but I really don't want to shear it off in the  
> block. I
> am wondering if I should just leave this stud in and replace the rest.
>
> Does anyone have any advice on getting this last one out?
>
> Roger Wilson
> '60 TR3
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus  
> signature
> database 4712 (20091223) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Dec 23 17:37:48 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 17:37:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] My Last Drive of the Year
Message-ID: <BF83B32D-B944-4698-B04C-762A857F04E8@comcast.net>

Drove around with the top down on Monday.  Tuesday it started snowing  
and still is today.  Down to single digits tonight and real cold for  
the rest of the year it looks.  Guess its up on jack stands for the 6  
for a few months now.

Merry Christmas to all.  Have a great Holiday season.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From ikorey at comcast.net  Wed Dec 23 18:39:34 2009
From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 19:39:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6
In-Reply-To: <29006.14587.qm@web50605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <29006.14587.qm@web50605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <354a1780912231739v4ee45d69m58483267be23b3fe@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 5:02 PM, Greg <one_second_zero at yahoo.com> wrote:

Anyone else running this size tire and
wheel that can comment on your experience?  Appreciate any advice.

I am running that exact combination - 16x7 Rewinds and 205/55x16 tires. I
also have the Goodparts springs, no spacers. I've driven this setup for
about 2000 miles, and I only had 1 instance of rubbing. The rf tire rubbed
the fender once when I was going up a driveway with a sharp, rather high lip
where it meets the street. I"m real happy with the way it looks too.

HTH,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Dec 23 22:37:53 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2009 22:37:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6
In-Reply-To: <354a1780912231739v4ee45d69m58483267be23b3fe@mail.gmail.com>
References: <29006.14587.qm@web50605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<354a1780912231739v4ee45d69m58483267be23b3fe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>

I too run this exact setup (except I have Panasport 16x7 wheels), same  
tire size, springs 1 inch less all the way around.  I like the way it  
sits, cruises, autocrosses and rides.   Great all around combination  
IMHO.  I have 16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS- 
D3 tires which are still available on Tire Rack the last time I  
checked.  Got a couple more a year or so ago.  They are great wet or  
dry.  Had some tire rub on extreme twists but my car sits twisted on  
the frame anyhow and always has but I've never had a tire problem (for  
about 15,000 plus miles) as a result and I certainly don't blame the  
setup for any tire rub.  Stan Foster posted a pic of how my 6 looks  
with that setup here http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/BudRTR6.jpg

Its my moment of fame being in the same picture with Richard Good's  
TR6 (Richard is the gentleman in the green shirt), and Marty Sukey's  
legendary blue TR6 (may it RIP) with his better half Evelyn in the  
pink blouse talking on the cell phone.

Shalom  to you and yours
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Dec 23, 2009, at 6:39 PM, Irv Korey wrote:

> On Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 5:02 PM, Greg <one_second_zero at yahoo.com>  
> wrote:
>
> Anyone else running this size tire and
> wheel that can comment on your experience?  Appreciate any advice.
>
> I am running that exact combination - 16x7 Rewinds and 205/55x16  
> tires. I
> also have the Goodparts springs, no spacers. I've driven this setup  
> for
> about 2000 miles, and I only had 1 instance of rubbing. The rf tire  
> rubbed
> the fender once when I was going up a driveway with a sharp, rather  
> high lip
> where it meets the street. I"m real happy with the way it looks too.
>
> HTH,
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Dec 24 04:26:31 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:26:31 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Season's Greetings
Message-ID: <968622.40238.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

This has been a year when I was sdo lucky to significantly exceed my normal
annual mileage but doing it in a Triumph that I always wanted but could never
afford - new or used. This year I did it in "uncle jack"  the TTACD Stag.
In
the 15,466 miles we did together across the US and Canada, I was so fortunate
to meet so many of you for the first time. Equally, I was unlucky not to have
been able to meet so many more!
But to all of you, met and UNmet, a VERY Happy
Christmas and the hope that as 2010 unfolds, the chance for us to meet - or
meet again, will raise its head.
L iz and I send our very best wishes for a
Happy New Year and may 2010 bring you all peace and happiness on the domestic,
work, Lucas and Oil Leak fronts :)

Jonmac

From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Thu Dec 24 06:36:31 2009
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:36:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6
In-Reply-To: <BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>
References: <29006.14587.qm@web50605.mail.re2.yahoo.com><354a1780912231739v4ee45d69m58483267be23b3fe@mail.gmail.com>
	<BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0B08B1CBD37444218D14E398FB77794B@TomandWendyPC>

.  Stan Foster posted a pic of how my 6 looks
> with that setup here 
> http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/BudRTR6.jpg
>
> Its my moment of fame being in the same picture with Richard Good's  TR6 
> (Richard is the gentleman in the green shirt), and Marty Sukey's 
> legendary blue TR6 (may it RIP) with his better half Evelyn in the  pink 
> blouse talking on the cell phone.
>
> Shalom  to you and yours
> Bud Rolofson

Actually, the cell phone addict is Linda Cracrin (GF of Bob Lang who is the 
guy with the camera hanging from his shoulder and his back to the camera). 
Just striving for complete historic accuracy! 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 24 06:42:43 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:42:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Bud's Picture
In-Reply-To: <BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>
References: <29006.14587.qm@web50605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>,
	<354a1780912231739v4ee45d69m58483267be23b3fe@mail.gmail.com>,
	<BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W23EAE659B88FE609E495C9BA7F0@phx.gbl>

The gentleman Richard is talking to is the famous (or is it infamous) Bob Lang
"RLM" and that is Bob's better half on the phone. It would be interesting to
have a picture of of all the autox ribbons associated with those three cars
and two drivers in that picture.

Merry Christmas to all,
Marty


> Its my moment of fame being in the same picture with Richard Good's
> TR6 (Richard is the gentleman in the green shirt), and Marty Sukey's
> legendary blue TR6 (may it RIP) with his better half Evelyn in the
> pink blouse talking on the cell phone.


_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Dec 24 07:36:29 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 14:36:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] Bud's Picture
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W23EAE659B88FE609E495C9BA7F0@phx.gbl>
References: <29006.14587.qm@web50605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>,
	<354a1780912231739v4ee45d69m58483267be23b3fe@mail.gmail.com>,
	<BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W23EAE659B88FE609E495C9BA7F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DB45E7@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Indeed we are looking at the Back end of Bob  and the lady on the phone is the
Lovely Linda. Picture was taken at the VTR National in Valley Forge, July
2007. A most enjoyable event.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2009 8:43 AM
To: Bud Rolofson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Bud's Picture

The gentleman Richard is talking to is the famous (or is it infamous) Bob Lang
"RLM" and that is Bob's better half on the phone. It would be interesting to
have a picture of of all the autox ribbons associated with those three cars
and two drivers in that picture.

Merry Christmas to all,
Marty


> Its my moment of fame being in the same picture with Richard Good's
> TR6 (Richard is the gentleman in the green shirt), and Marty Sukey's
> legendary blue TR6 (may it RIP) with his better half Evelyn in the
> pink blouse talking on the cell phone.


_________________________________________________________________
Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Dec 24 08:56:38 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 08:56:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Season's Greetings
In-Reply-To: <968622.40238.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
References: <968622.40238.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0912240756m7d35e6a6ndf1c0cadbf3560a1@mail.gmail.com>

At our usual Tuesday morning coffee group we ended up with 2 TR4s in
Holiday colors & decor parked side-by-side.  Now I see that the result
has appeared on the club website so here's my thrifty Holiday Greeting
to my TR friends:

http://tucsonbritish.com/default.aspx

Geo

PS: Mine's on the right.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Dec 24 10:04:32 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 12:04:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Season's Greetings
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0912240756m7d35e6a6ndf1c0cadbf3560a1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <968622.40238.qm@web28315.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4B3358D0.13194.562C9B80@localhost>

On 24 Dec 2009 at 8:56, Geo Hahn wrote:

> http://tucsonbritish.com/default.aspx

Nice cars!  Nicely color-matched decorations too.  Ah, it just 
happened that way by accident, didn't it?

For a very different persepctive on the weather in the opposite 
corner of the world, here is my offering.  The picture is a few years 
old now but nothing has changed!

http://world.std.com/~muller/TriumphantGreetings.jpg

Best wishes to you all!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From one_second_zero at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 24 11:22:53 2009
From: one_second_zero at yahoo.com (Greg)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 10:22:53 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6
In-Reply-To: <BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <572956.85775.qm@web50608.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thanks!  This is exactly the kind of input I was looking for and the photo
really helps.  Now I just need to fit it all in the budget.  Not an easy thing
to prioritize when my race car needs another set of tires...  :( 
 
- Greg H

--- On Wed, 12/23/09, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6
To: "Irv Korey" <ikorey at comcast.net>
Cc: "Greg" <one_second_zero at yahoo.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, December 23, 2009, 11:37 PM


I too run this exact setup (except I have Panasport 16x7 wheels), same tire
size, springs 1 inch less all the way around.  I like the way it sits,
cruises, autocrosses and rides.   Great all around combination IMHO.  I have
16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires which are
still available on Tire Rack the last time I checked.  Got a couple more a
year or so ago.  They are great wet or dry.  Had some tire rub on extreme
twists but my car sits twisted on the frame anyhow and always has but I've
never had a tire problem (for about 15,000 plus miles) as a result and I
certainly don't blame the setup for any tire rub.  Stan Foster posted a pic of
how my 6 looks with that setup here
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/BudRTR6.jpg

Its my moment of fame being in the same picture with Richard Good's TR6
(Richard is the gentleman in the green shirt), and Marty Sukey's legendary
blue TR6 (may it RIP) with his better half Evelyn in the pink blouse talking
on the cell phone.

Shalom  to you and yours
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Dec 23, 2009, at 6:39 PM, Irv Korey wrote:

> On Wed, Dec 23, 2009 at 5:02 PM, Greg <one_second_zero at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Anyone else running this size tire and
> wheel that can comment on your experience?  Appreciate any advice.
>
> I am running that exact combination - 16x7 Rewinds and 205/55x16 tires. I
> also have the Goodparts springs, no spacers. I've driven this setup for
> about 2000 miles, and I only had 1 instance of rubbing. The rf tire rubbed
> the fender once when I was going up a driveway with a sharp, rather high
lip
> where it meets the street. I"m real happy with the way it looks too.
>
> HTH,
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Dec 24 11:45:54 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 18:45:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6
In-Reply-To: <572956.85775.qm@web50608.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>
	<572956.85775.qm@web50608.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DB46D3@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Rick Patton also has this same combination on his blown/injected TR6. I think
it is a great look and it suits the TR6 well. I was so taken by this combo
that I took a close up to remind me of what tires he had:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/BI%202009/DSC_0085.jpg

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2009 1:23 PM
To: Irv Korey; Bud Rolofson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6

Thanks!  This is exactly the kind of input I was looking for and the photo
really helps.  Now I just need to fit it all in the budget.  Not an easy thing
to prioritize when my race car needs another set of tires...  :(

- Greg H

--- On Wed, 12/23/09, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:


From: Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Question: Konig Rewind 16x7 wheels for TR6
To: "Irv Korey" <ikorey at comcast.net>
Cc: "Greg" <one_second_zero at yahoo.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, December 23, 2009, 11:37 PM


I too run this exact setup (except I have Panasport 16x7 wheels), same tire
size, springs 1 inch less all the way around.  I like the way it sits,
cruises, autocrosses and rides.   Great all around combination IMHO.  I have
16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires which are
still available on Tire Rack the last time I checked.  Got a couple more a
year or so ago.  They are great wet or dry.  Had some tire rub on extreme
twists but my car sits twisted on the frame anyhow and always has but I've
never had a tire problem (for about 15,000 plus miles) as a result and I
certainly don't blame the setup for any tire rub.  Stan Foster posted a pic of
how my 6 looks with that setup here
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/BudRTR6.jpg

Its my moment of fame being in the same picture with Richard Good's TR6
(Richard is the gentleman in the green shirt), and Marty Sukey's legendary
blue TR6 (may it RIP) with his better half Evelyn in the pink blouse talking
on the cell phone.

Shalom  to you and yours
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977
Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Dec 24 15:17:59 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2009 15:17:59 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bud's Picture
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W23EAE659B88FE609E495C9BA7F0@phx.gbl>
References: <29006.14587.qm@web50605.mail.re2.yahoo.com>,
	<354a1780912231739v4ee45d69m58483267be23b3fe@mail.gmail.com>,
	<BF01E74E-9033-4A21-A2EF-C331D1769A1C@comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W23EAE659B88FE609E495C9BA7F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <96F99B36-056E-466D-A612-393A07B0E34B@comcast.net>

Sorry about the wrong identification of the lady.  So much for my  
recollections.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Dec 24, 2009, at 6:42 AM, marty sukey wrote:

> The gentleman Richard is talking to is the famous (or is it  
> infamous) Bob Lang "RLM" and that is Bob's better half on the phone.  
> It would be interesting to have a picture of of all the autox  
> ribbons associated with those three cars and two drivers in that  
> picture.
>
> Merry Christmas to all,
> Marty
>
>
> > Its my moment of fame being in the same picture with Richard Good's
> > TR6 (Richard is the gentleman in the green shirt), and Marty Sukey's
> > legendary blue TR6 (may it RIP) with his better half Evelyn in the
> > pink blouse talking on the cell phone.
>
>
> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign  
> up now.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Dec 25 09:17:01 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 16:17:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] Christmas wishes.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W35D5334433D63D6EF156F3E57E0@phx.gbl>

Things have been a little thin this year,
none the less I wish you cheer,
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.


Best regards,
Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg]

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Dec 25 09:25:40 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 11:25:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] Christmas wishes.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W35D5334433D63D6EF156F3E57E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4B34A134.9728.3849570@localhost>

On 25 Dec 2009 at 16:17, tom white wrote:

> Things have been a little thin this year,
> none the less I wish you cheer,
> Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.


Alas, the list mechanisms have removed your jpg attachment.

Nevertheless, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you too!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com  Fri Dec 25 12:41:14 2009
From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 11:41:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Removing Head Studs-success!
In-Reply-To: <67CF70B7-D46D-47F4-AE65-303CFDFE00CD@comcast.net>
References: <001501ca7ce2$64123b50$2c36b1f0$@griffing@comcast.net>
	<E6.A7.01550.415862B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
	<003301ca83f6$77874e30$6695ea90$@com>
	<67CF70B7-D46D-47F4-AE65-303CFDFE00CD@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000301ca859a$3a120e00$ae362a00$@com>

Thanks to everyone for all the great advice on removing that final head
stud. I think that the best advice is patience and persistence. Here is what
worked and what didn't:

1. I bought a stud remover at Sears. It has a notched cam that grabbed the
stud up to a point, but then slipped. Maybe there is a remover out there
better than the Craftsman version that grips better, but I couldn't get this
to work for me.
2. Double nut method- I have used this before on smaller studs, but it just
didn't work here. The nuts would just slowly slip up to stud and work their
way off.
3. Welded nut method- This finally did it. With a socket and breaker bar it
finally came out. When it first moved it made such a loud noise I thought I
broke the socket or sheared the stud. But it all came out in one piece.
Hurray!

I guess 5 days of PB Blaster and pounding finally paid off. The other studs
came out relatively easy with some heating at the base of the stud, an 8"
pipe wrench and a hammer.
 
I didn't try the melted candle wax that a few people recommended. I was
concerned that it would clog things up and not allow the penetrating oil to
get into the threads of the stud. I also didn't try heating up the block at
the stud and icing it down, but that was going to be my next step if the
welded nut didn't work.

Thanks again for all the encouragement and great suggestions. I hope
everyone has a wonderful holiday season and a better new year in 2010 for us
all.

Roger Wilson
'60 TR3A 

 

__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature
database 4716 (20091225) __________

The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.

http://www.eset.com

From lherault at bu.edu  Fri Dec 25 18:50:11 2009
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 20:50:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] ignition wires
Message-ID: <003e01ca85cd$c32174a0$49645de0$@edu>

I've got a set of aging silicone covered wires on my 1973 TR-6.  It is time
to replace them.  I'm looking for recommendations.  The car is unmodified,
points ignition, 84K miles.

Thanks,

Ron L

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Dec 25 20:29:03 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 21:29:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] low profile aluminum jack
In-Reply-To: <605735530.4605811261501423046.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <605735530.4605811261501423046.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B00C3F1194204E98865B816A4FEFB1A7@ranteer.local>

hi, all.  hope your holidays have been restful.

I am apparently to be the recipient of a new aluminum low profile hydraulic 
jack, and I want to know which is recommended?

I had a summit racing jack which I loved, but the seals are shot after only 
a few years.  is there a place that fixes these?  should I replace it?

thanks in advance! 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Dec 25 20:41:53 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 03:41:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] low profile aluminum jack
In-Reply-To: <B00C3F1194204E98865B816A4FEFB1A7@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <162929536.3315851261798913311.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

aluminum jacks are 60 bucks new at northern tool.B  pitch it.B 



----- Original Message -----
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, "Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, December 25, 2009 9:29:03 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [TR] low profile aluminum jack

hi, all. B hope your holidays have been restful.

I am apparently to be the recipient of a new aluminum low profile hydraulic
jack, and I want to know which is recommended?

I had a summit racing jack which I loved, but the seals are shot after only
a few years. B is there a place that fixes these? B should I replace it?

thanks in advance!
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Dec 25 21:07:01 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 04:07:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] low profile aluminum jack
In-Reply-To: <162929536.3315851261798913311.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <857353281.4939881261800421517.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Weird.  I printed out the coupon just a minute before checking out my Email.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/common/displayCoupon.do?week=5209&campaign=RetailC&page=5209_retailC.html&r=7268_579668&cust=00000000000&keycode=0000

<http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/common/displayCoupon.do?week=5209&campaign=RetailC&page=5209_retailC.html&r=7268_579668&cust=00000000000&keycode=0000>



Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- spook01 at comcast.net wrote:

> From: spook01 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [TR] low profile aluminum jack
>
> aluminum jacks are 60 bucks new at northern tool.B  pitch it.B 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>

> I am apparently to be the recipient of a new aluminum low profile
> hydraulic
> jack, and I want to know which is recommended?
> 
> I had a summit racing jack which I loved, but the seals are shot after
> only
> a few years. B is there a place that fixes these? B should I replace
> it?
> 
> thanks in advance!

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sat Dec 26 08:05:53 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 10:05:53 EST
Subject: [TR] low profile aluminum jack
Message-ID: <cee.6df1e7f1.38678051@aol.com>

I have one of those - it's great.
While you're picking that up at Harbor Freight, you can pick up a boxed  
assortment of O-rings that will probably have just what you need to fix the 
old  one.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
In a message dated 12/25/2009 11:07:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
pethier at comcast.net writes:

Weird.  I printed out the coupon just a minute before checking out  my  
Email.

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/common/displayCoupon.do?week=5209&campai
gn=RetailC&page=5209_retailC.html&r=7268_579668&cust=00000000000&keycode=000
0

<http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/common/displayCoupon.do?week=5209&campa
ign=RetailC&page=5209_retailC.html&r=7268_579668&cust=00000000000&keycode=00
00>



Phil  Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979  Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3  2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier  

----- spook01 at comcast.net wrote:

> From:  spook01 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [TR] low profile aluminum  jack
>
> aluminum jacks are 60 bucks new at northern tool.B   pitch it.B 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message  -----
> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>

> I am  apparently to be the recipient of a new aluminum low profile
>  hydraulic
> jack, and I want to know which is recommended?
>  
> I had a summit racing jack which I loved, but the seals are shot  after
> only
> a few years. B is there a place that fixes these? B  should I replace
> it?
> 
> thanks in  advance!
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are  subscribed as  mcgaheyrx at aol.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Dec 26 09:31:02 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 16:31:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] low profile aluminum jack
In-Reply-To: <B00C3F1194204E98865B816A4FEFB1A7@ranteer.local>
References: <605735530.4605811261501423046.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>,
	<B00C3F1194204E98865B816A4FEFB1A7@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W20118BB3799694AD4FB934E57D0@phx.gbl>

I guess depending on the brand you can buy a seal kit for the jack.  I'd bet
Summit has them.  Resealing the hydraulic cylinder is not very difficult.

Best regards,
Tom



> From: sumton at sbcglobal.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2009 21:29:03 -0600
> Subject: [TR] low profile aluminum jack
>
> hi, all.  hope your holidays have been restful.
>
> I am apparently to be the recipient of a new aluminum low profile hydraulic
> jack, and I want to know which is recommended?
>
> I had a summit racing jack which I loved, but the seals are shot after only
> a few years.  is there a place that fixes these?  should I replace it?
>
> thanks in advance!
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Dec 26 09:37:55 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 16:37:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] FW: [9issa] Auction Jan. 7
In-Reply-To: <2ad6c6b10912221236l3fd83135s14da96e3d326498c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2ad6c6b10912221236l3fd83135s14da96e3d326498c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W192673FE83960E27FE5EE5E57D0@phx.gbl>

Best regards,
Tom



Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2009 12:36:45 -0800
From: froggi60 at gmail.com
To: spridgets at autox.team.net; Polysci_101 at justbrits.com; 9issa at justbrits.com;
tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu
Subject: [9issa] Auction Jan. 7

http://bringatrailer.com/2009/12/21/us-marshal-liquidation-confiscated-collec
tion/
--
Here is an Important Message for anyone who receives this email:  If you
forward this correspondence, PLEASE DELETE THE FORWARDING HISTORY, which
includes my email address!  It is a courtesy to me and others who may not wish
to have their email addresses sent all over the world!  Erasing the history
helps prevent Spammers from mining addresses and viruses from being
propagated!  IT ALSO PROTECTS YOU.

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/
_______________________________________________
9issa mailing list
9issa at justbrits.com
http://justbrits.com/mailman/listinfo/9issa_justbrits.com
http://www.justbrits.com

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 11:12:48 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 10:12:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Upholstery / carpet adhesive
Message-ID: <748771.27377.qm@web111618.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

due to having not yet received my stimulus check yet, i have decided to perform a short term installation of some older upholstery and carpet.
any ideas on an adhesive that will not be a real pain when it comes time to take off the temporary stuff.
i may wish to use some parts as templates for the new, so it would be nice if they came off in one piece later.
thanks
Frank Fisher

From Loumetelko at aol.com  Sat Dec 26 13:02:38 2009
From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 15:02:38 EST
Subject: [TR] tr3 paint
Message-ID: <bc8.6428d133.3867c5de@aol.com>

my question - they've painted the tub, and I'm  wondering if the inner 
fenders etc are supposed to be buffed (glossy) or  not.
 




If you are talking about the inner fenders in the engine compartment the  
answer is yes.  The underside of the bonnet as well as the firewall should  
be wet sanded with at least 600 grit.  While you are at it the inner  fenders 
in the boot and the underside of the boot lid should be  included.  You 
will never have a better time to do it right!
 
I volunteered to do that exact thing when my TR2 was going through the  
process.  I felt I could do the wet sanding better and cheaper than the  shop 
flunky at the standard $60 per hour.
 
Lou Metelko
TR2LD
Auburn, Indiana

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Dec 26 13:59:45 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 15:59:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] low profile aluminum jack
References: <COL123-DS241449158750CEEC285A46F47D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2A99CD10BA47467AA1E2BB3469CC3E04@Alan>

I picked one up today for a friend. On line coupon was $10.00 cheaper then 
the mail coupon I got.
They were also giving out a one day 25% coupon good only Jan 1.
They have a bigger aluminum jack on sale till Jan 4 for 89.99. jan1 coupon = 
67.50
Worth going in and buying a candy bar for the coupon today.
lol

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Six Pack" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] low profile aluminum jack


> Oliver---Don't know about a repair kit for the jack you have, but maybe 
> Summit can direct you.
>
> You will like the lightness of the new jack and the low profile. The only 
> downside to this one is the lack of leverage when using the shorter 
> handle.  I usually use the extension. Mine came from Harbor Freight a 
> couple of years ago.
> Anodized Blue & Silver.  Yep...Mrs. Claus.
>
> Dick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oliver
> Sent: Friday, December 25, 2009 7:29 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net, Six Pack
> Subject: [6pack] low profile aluminum jack
>
> hi, all.  hope your holidays have been restful.
>
> I am apparently to be the recipient of a new aluminum low profile 
> hydraulic
> jack, and I want to know which is recommended?
>
> I had a summit racing jack which I loved, but the seals are shot after 
> only
> a few years.  is there a place that fixes these?  should I replace it?
>
> thanks in advance!
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net

From tcheat2002 at yahoo.com  Sat Dec 26 14:29:09 2009
From: tcheat2002 at yahoo.com (Tim Cheatham)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 13:29:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] low profile aluminum jack
Message-ID: <193480.70266.qm@web30608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>From talking to a guy that rebuilds jacks, the import aluminum jacks aren't worth repairing. Of course, he is biased towards American made, but he says that the rubber o rings in those tend to leak after a few years. I've seen a couple of threads about jack selection at the garage journal. You might check them out. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 25, 2009, at 9:29 PM, "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

hi, all.  hope your holidays have been restful.

I am apparently to be the recipient of a new aluminum low profile hydraulic jack, and I want to know which is recommended?

I had a summit racing jack which I loved, but the seals are shot after only a few years.  is there a place that fixes these?  should I replace it?

thanks in advance! 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are subscribed as tcheat2002 at yahoo.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 14:39:11 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 14:39:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Upholstery / carpet adhesive
In-Reply-To: <748771.27377.qm@web111618.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <748771.27377.qm@web111618.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0912261339h27cd15d5n518a8813080cb8f6@mail.gmail.com>

I can't recall what TR you have, but on a TR3 & TR4 there is very
little that must be glued to stay in place.  For those pieces I find
that the usual spray automotive adhesive holds well yet is pretty easy
to peel up.  If you use a bit lighter spray than usual it would make
for a very easy removal.

Geo

On 12/26/09, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com> wrote:
> any ideas on an adhesive that will not be a real pain when it comes time to
> take off the temporary stuff.
> i may wish to use some parts as templates for the new, so it would be nice
> if they came off in one piece later.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Dec 26 15:41:49 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2009 16:41:49 -0600
Subject: [TR] [6pack] low profile aluminum jack
In-Reply-To: <2A99CD10BA47467AA1E2BB3469CC3E04@Alan>
References: <COL123-DS241449158750CEEC285A46F47D0@phx.gbl>
	<2A99CD10BA47467AA1E2BB3469CC3E04@Alan>
Message-ID: <E8B3101B1A7341D6ADEB3A65E6DC5AC5@ranteer.local>

one very kind lister (thank you!!!) sent me a link to a coupon for $59.99 at 
harbor freight.  I bought 2!  at that price I figure they are disposable.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Al Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 2:59 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] low profile aluminum jack

> I picked one up today for a friend. On line coupon was $10.00 cheaper then 
> the mail coupon I got.
> They were also giving out a one day 25% coupon good only Jan 1.
> They have a bigger aluminum jack on sale till Jan 4 for 89.99. jan1 coupon 
> = 67.50
> Worth going in and buying a candy bar for the coupon today.
> lol

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sat Dec 26 18:37:57 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 01:37:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3A Side curtain mounts
In-Reply-To: <EC4362EB-108F-4CF1-A99D-E0B8DACC3FB9@cox.net>
References: <EC4362EB-108F-4CF1-A99D-E0B8DACC3FB9@cox.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.1.1261877910.4172.triumphs@autox.team.net>

How about duct taping a piece of foam rubber to your leg. At least that way the car remains original; can't say as much for the driver, though. 
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:53:26 
To: Triumph car discussion Sports<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Side curtain mounts

I have owned this 1960 TR3A for a little over 5 years and because I live in
Phoenix the Side curtains and the top have been wrapped in thick towels &
stored under a bed.  I only remember which bed at this point because I had to
move the top to find some Christmas decorations.  :-)

My question is has any one made an insert or a cover for the side curtain
attach point at the front of the door.  When ever I am cruising I pull my left
leg up & lean it on the front of the door & that attachi point digs right into
the side of my knee.

I was thinking about making up a small padded piece that will fit in the
bottom notch & attach to the door with a Dzus fastener.

Any advice

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 27 11:31:06 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 11:31:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A Side curtain mounts
In-Reply-To: <EC4362EB-108F-4CF1-A99D-E0B8DACC3FB9@cox.net>
References: <EC4362EB-108F-4CF1-A99D-E0B8DACC3FB9@cox.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0912271031w6474709ctaa867f1ccc0c7dbc@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/12/09, John A. Wise <60TR3A at cox.net> wrote:
>
> I was thinking about making up a small padded piece that will fit in the
> bottom notch & attach to the door with a Dzus fastener.
>
> Any advice...

Since this thread got revived, I have a thought this time around:

I like the idea of a bit of padding but perhaps much simpler than
using a Dzus would be to secure it with a maget or two, possibly in
the hem of the pad.  Harbor Freight sells those little button magnets
(about the size of an aspirin) that cling like grim death.  If the pad
was black leather or vinyl and stitched up all 'round it could look
good.

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sun Dec 27 12:04:06 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 11:04:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] fender brace tr-3
Message-ID: <95514.10233.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>

    I'm in the middle of fitting all the panels on my ground up restoration project tr-3 and can't remember where the rear fender brace  (distance piece?) attaches to the body.  This is the piece about 6" long that goes right behind the rear wheel and holds the bottom of the fender straight.  I think it attaches to the leaf spring but can't see anything on the spring to attach it too.  Didn't notice anything in the Moss catalogue either.  Just wondering.

gary n.

From jmwagner at greenheart.com  Sun Dec 27 12:28:32 2009
From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 11:28:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] Justin:  Oil Cap Curiosity
Message-ID: <4B37B560.5080603@greenheart.com>

Does anyone recognize what car this cap comes from?  

http://i.ebayimg.com/16/!BiJ)hH!!mk~$(KGrHqQOKj4EsDLg)qyOBLNSMqDk3Q~~_12.JPG

It looks similar to the early TR2 cap, but the early TR2 cap has a 
little raised crown area.

http://www.ridedrive.co.uk/images/triumph_files/tr2-underbonnet.jpg

The later TR2 cap has indentations for grip:

http://www.rucompatible.com/triumph/images/TR2%20Carbs%20from%20Late%20TR3A%20Engine.JPG

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Dec 27 12:46:24 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 14:46:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] fender brace tr-3
In-Reply-To: <95514.10233.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <95514.10233.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200912271446.25333.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 27 December 2009 02:04:06 pm Gary Nafziger wrote:
>     I'm in the middle of fitting all the panels on my ground up restoration
>  project tr-3 and can't remember where the rear fender brace  (distance
>  piece?) attaches to the body.  This is the piece about 6" long that goes
>  right behind the rear wheel and holds the bottom of the fender straight. 
>  I think it attaches to the leaf spring but can't see anything on the
>  spring to attach it too.  Didn't notice anything in the Moss catalogue
>  either.  Just wondering.
> 
> gary n.
> 
Gary,

There should be a L shaped metal piece welded to the frame similar look to the 
piece on the fender. Attached with a 1/4 28 nut and bolt.

Bob

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Dec 27 13:08:09 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 15:08:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] fender brace tr-3
In-Reply-To: <95514.10233.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
References: <95514.10233.qm@web65305.mail.ac2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FE8BEC1F01DF499AA0D64F88455EB8BF@DCH6RFC1>

The attachment points are about 6 inches forward of the rear leaf springs
attachment points.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 2:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] fender brace tr-3

    I'm in the middle of fitting all the panels on my ground up restoration
project tr-3 and can't remember where the rear fender brace  (distance
piece?) attaches to the body.  This is the piece about 6" long that goes
right behind the rear wheel and holds the bottom of the fender straight.  I
think it attaches to the leaf spring but can't see anything on the spring to
attach it too.  Didn't notice anything in the Moss catalogue either.  Just
wondering.

gary n.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From banjonut at verizon.net  Sun Dec 27 15:12:38 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 14:12:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A Side curtain mounts
Message-ID: <E683ADEAA5574EFE9B2A2CE631377A12@HAMPC>

Just remove the door.
You'd solve the sidecurtain fastener problem, and think of the extra A/C you'd
get.


Aargh...I should have saved that one for April Fools Day.


Steve in Lompoc CA

----------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 01:37:57 +0000
From: dlylis at gmail.com
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Side curtain mounts
To: "John A. Wise"
<60TR3A at cox.net>,triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net,"Triumph car
discussion Sports" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1261940401.22731.triumphs at autox.team.net>
Content-Type: text/plain

How about duct taping a piece of foam rubber to your leg. At least that way
the car remains original; can't say as much for the driver, though.
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:53:26
To: Triumph car discussion Sports<Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3A Side curtain mounts

I have owned this 1960 TR3A for a little over 5 years and because I live in
Phoenix the Side curtains and the top have been wrapped in thick towels &
stored under a bed.  I only remember which bed at this point because I had to
move the top to find some Christmas decorations.  :-)

My question is has any one made an insert or a cover for the side curtain
attach point at the front of the door.  When ever I am cruising I pull my
left
leg up & lean it on the front of the door & that attachi point digs right
into
the side of my knee.

I was thinking about making up a small padded piece that will fit in the
bottom notch & attach to the door with a Dzus fastener.

Any advice

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Dec 27 17:13:22 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 16:13:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>

Happy holidays, everybody!

   Some of you might remember this thread from 1.5 years ago, when I was trying to find the true identity of my '62-ish TR4 that had somehow acquired TR4A commission and body number plates.  Presumably, some unscrupulous person years ago had a rust-free TR4 with no title and a rusted or smashed TR4A with a good title, and they just swapped the plates.  I was able to trace the car back to a defunct Portland, OR repair shop in the 1990's, but no farther.
   I initially assumed the engine was also wrong, since its number (CT10205E) seemed too late to match the car's early body tub (folding boot prop rod, etc).  But this fall, I sent it to BMIHT anyway, and I'm glad I did.
   Their records match the car perfectly: Red paint, black leather interior, overdrive, 48-spoke wires, and the kicker... port of delivery was Portland, OR.  "Date of Build" is given as Jan 1, 1962, but the "Date of Despatch" is more than 6 months later (June 7).  Build date matches the body, and dispatch date matches the engine and number plates.  Odd, but seems plausible.
   Next, I wrote to the Oregon DMV and had them do a title search on the commission number from BMIHT, which is CT 9945 LO.
   The results arrived yesterday.  Oregon titled the car as a '63, and their records place it in the Portland area from 1963 through 1974, with no records after that.
   The DMV report blanked out all personal info except for birthdays.  Interestingly, the second owner seems to have received the car as a 21st birthday present:  On May 9, 1966, the title was transferred to someone with a birthday of May 8, 1945.  Cool, huh?  =)

   Anyway... I'm guessing the car got neglected after 1974, and sat in a shop or warehouse for a few years while the title got lost.

   Here's my big question for the list:  Is there any safe, legal way for me to get the correct commission number back on the car?  I'm 99% sure this car was never stolen, because the Oregon DMV would certainly have said something.  But, the title could have a lien on it or something.
   I live in Seattle, WA.  What's the worst that could happen if I just wander into the local DMV and tell them my story?

   It would be SO cool if somebody on the list recognized the car!
   Let me know if you've ever owned a "1963" TR4 in Oregon and you have one of the following birthdays:

May 8, 1945
Apr 29, 1949
Sept 5, 1950
Oct 22, 1942
Aug 29, 1946
Dec 28, 1948
Oct 20, 1929
Feb 11, 1953
Aug 6, 1947

   I promise I won't turn you in.  =)
   Cheers!
-Nick Wolf
'62 TR4
Seattle

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Dec 27 18:37:04 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2009 18:37:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0912271737r7b105055hc24bb24982f6714a@mail.gmail.com>

On 12/27/09, nwolf at u.washington.edu <nwolf at u.washington.edu> wrote:
> I live in Seattle, WA.  What's the worst that could happen if I just
> wander into the local DMV and tell them my story?

Excellent -- worthy of the History Detectives.

You likely need a friend in the DMV.  Okay, not a real friend but
someone who will take an interest in what you want to do and why you
want to do it.

In my experience finding such a person by just going into the license
branch is a long shot.

Don't know if you have these in WA, but in Arizona we have local
private license branches that are less hurried and more willing to
work with a 'problem'.  They charge an extra service fee but deliver
on that service.  If you have these it might be a place to try.

Also... maybe thru the list or a local club you might find 'someone
who knows someone' who can help.  In addition to car clubs, a member
of your local license plate club (if you can find such a thing) may
have a useful contact.

I had an unusual request for the Arizona MVD and worked the phone a
bit calling the main office in Phoenix until I got someone who was
friendly and helpful.  In the end it worked for me as she told me how
to go about what I wanted to do and sent me a copy of the procedure
manual section on the subject (the local branch had told me it
couldn't be done) -- but swore me to never reveal how I came by the
information.

Good luck -- certainly worth trying to do.

Geo

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Mon Dec 28 09:37:33 2009
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 08:37:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Wanted used ignition switch,
 Lucas part number 31403 + Lock  insert FA 511
Message-ID: <36650.31248.qm@web36805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I am looking for a used ignition switch, fit early TR2's & TR3's. Need the one with the screw terminals. Thanks.

I also maintain a wanted list for lock inserts. FA 511 on my wanted list.
Appreciate any leads to purchase.

Kind regards and Happy New Year.
Pete Groh  (KeyGuy)
9957 Frederick Rd 
Ellicott City, Md. 21042-3647 U.S.A.
Phone 410 750-2352 evening  

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 28 09:58:08 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:58:08 +0000
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W44DF54A1BED0B0FBC83A45E57B0@phx.gbl>

I suppose the worst possible outcome would be for the car to show up as
stolen, in another state, and be confiscated and you prosecuted for receiving
stolen property.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Dec 28 10:01:34 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 17:01:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0912271737r7b105055hc24bb24982f6714a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>,
	<7bb181af0912271737r7b105055hc24bb24982f6714a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W38F80D875F31CE60AF8D47E57B0@phx.gbl>

I am not sure they do title searches but if you belong to AAA you could try
their member services.  They do registration so they may have access to the
info you want.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Dec 28 15:46:44 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 17:46:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you think ?
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W38F80D875F31CE60AF8D47E57B0@phx.gbl>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>,
	<7bb181af0912271737r7b105055hc24bb24982f6714a@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY110-W38F80D875F31CE60AF8D47E57B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <666EB71C3AB14A2FABB02EBA8B13BCDD@DCH6RFC1>

List:

Someone recently asked me how many hours it would take to complete a
frame-off restoration on an old British sports car like a TR.  

Not withstanding all the variables of such a request (need for extensive
bodywork, engine rebuild, upgrades, etc.), I replied 1200 hours - based on 6
hrs/weekend for 4 years for my last project.  But what do others think ??

Andrew Uprichard
1962 TR3B tucked up for the winter
1959 TR3A on its way to a new owner in Europe
16 hours into the latest project

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 28 15:48:41 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:48:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] restoration from hell
Message-ID: <89151459E8CF4590A145CE0FC9F6EA06@ranteer.local>

progress, finally.

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/DSCN4603.JPG

the underside, engine compartment, and interior are done, but the scuttle and
fenders are still in primer, which, weirdly enough, practically matches the
paint!

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/DSCN4604.JPG

salvador blue has a lot of gray in it so it changes colors depending upon the
light.

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Dec 28 16:18:43 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 16:18:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A engine and gearbox weight?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1262026802.1935.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1262026802.1935.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <48A40571-2B2F-4808-A713-0AB7A51D7C6F@telus.net>

Anyone know offhand what a TR4A engine and transmission weigh?

Thanks
Don

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Dec 28 16:35:14 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 17:35:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] What do you think ?
In-Reply-To: <666EB71C3AB14A2FABB02EBA8B13BCDD@DCH6RFC1>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>,
	<7bb181af0912271737r7b105055hc24bb24982f6714a@mail.gmail.com><BAY110-W38F80D875F31CE60AF8D47E57B0@phx.gbl>
	<666EB71C3AB14A2FABB02EBA8B13BCDD@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <79BDE4CF19C045C7B1F63A02BB55200B@ranteer.local>

I think you are way light.  I am not doing all the work on mine and I think 
I've got that many hours in just managing the project.

remember - if you are going to do a renovation/restoration of a house, car, 
boat, whatever, go get three bids.


then add them all up and that is what it will cost you.


hours, dollars, whatever . . .

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 4:46 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] What do you think ?

> List:
>
> Someone recently asked me how many hours it would take to complete a
> frame-off restoration on an old British sports car like a TR.
>
> Not withstanding all the variables of such a request (need for extensive
> bodywork, engine rebuild, upgrades, etc.), I replied 1200 hours - based on
> 6
> hrs/weekend for 4 years for my last project.  But what do others think ??
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> 1962 TR3B tucked up for the winter
> 1959 TR3A on its way to a new owner in Europe
> 16 hours into the latest project

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Dec 28 16:45:12 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 18:45:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] restoration from hell
In-Reply-To: <89151459E8CF4590A145CE0FC9F6EA06@ranteer.local>
References: <89151459E8CF4590A145CE0FC9F6EA06@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <200912281845.12988.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 28 December 2009 05:48:41 pm oliver wrote:
> progress, finally.
> 
>

Oliver,

The restoration may have started in hell but it appears to be making good 
progress towards a better life!

I will be painting the tub on my 72 6 project in the spring and I can only 
hope it comes out that nice!

Color will be French Blue, a bit more "blue" than your Salvador Blue.

Seems almost a shame to cover up that interior with carpet, panels etc. but 
the engine will really look nice against that blue!

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Dec 28 16:54:22 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 18:54:22 -0500
Subject: [TR] What do you think ?
In-Reply-To: <666EB71C3AB14A2FABB02EBA8B13BCDD@DCH6RFC1>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912271613220.30617@hymn33.u.washington.edu>
	<BAY110-W38F80D875F31CE60AF8D47E57B0@phx.gbl>
	<666EB71C3AB14A2FABB02EBA8B13BCDD@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <200912281854.22737.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 28 December 2009 05:46:44 pm Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> List:
> 
> Someone recently asked me how many hours it would take to complete a
> frame-off restoration on an old British sports car like a TR.
> 
> Not withstanding all the variables of such a request (need for extensive
> bodywork, engine rebuild, upgrades, etc.), I replied 1200 hours - based on
>  6 hrs/weekend for 4 years for my last project.  But what do others think
>  ??
> 
Andrew,

This came up last year I believe and I am not sure what the results were.

I have been knee deep in  a 72 6 restoration and during Spring, Summer and 
Fall I usually put in 2 hours after work Monday through Thursday and at least 
6 hours each on Saturday and Sunday.  Restoration started 9 / 2008. I expect 
to wrap it up on or about July 2010.

But since I am waiting for Spring to resume body work on the tub, I am in 
limbo right now doing odds and ends.
 
So this winter, I will not be adding to many hours to whatever the grand total 
will be.

I sort of wish I kept a log of time, not only what and when. Would not have 
been that hard.

My 63 4 took me 29 months with parts of 2 winters off. Effort was similar to my 
current 6 project but I did take time off for vacations etc.

Bob

From jhassall at blacksburg.net  Mon Dec 28 17:40:06 2009
From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 19:40:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A engine and gearbox weight?
In-Reply-To: <48A40571-2B2F-4808-A713-0AB7A51D7C6F@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4.1262026802.1935.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<48A40571-2B2F-4808-A713-0AB7A51D7C6F@telus.net>
Message-ID: <4B394FE6.1090207@blacksburg.net>

On 12/28/2009 6:18 PM, Don wrote:
> Anyone know offhand what a TR4A engine and transmission weigh?

Don, I estimate, based on component weights, of ~425# for the engine w/o 
starter and generator but with all else.  I know a gearbox w/OD has a 
shipping weight of 135#.  Subtract about 50# for the OD and plywood 
container.

hth

jim
-- 
Jim Hassall
Blacksburg VA
'63 TR4 in autox preparation
99% finished, 90% to go

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Dec 28 19:46:20 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 21:46:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Spits] Spitfire Head
In-Reply-To: <4B394962.8000200@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <4B39272C.12179.152FC598@localhost>

On 28 Dec 2009 at 18:12, Roger Elliott wrote:

> I have an 80 Spitfire...  I would hate to take the head off,
> then find out it was already at 9.0 compression.

My engine is a '76 which means it has 9:1 compression.  It was 
rebuilt some years ago but I wasn't deeply involved in the actual 
work so I can't speak from direct experience.  But I recall being 
told, related to a very different scenario, that the higher 
compression of the '76 engine was all in the head.  Question is, do 
you know the history of your engine?

Can one guess compression ratio by measuring the compression?  I 
recall that mine is quite high, about 160lb or something.  Or are 
there too many other factors?

Wasn't something like this just discussed in a different thread, or 
is my email coming in in reverse-chronological order???

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Mon Dec 28 23:48:06 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:48:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912282248060.28841@hymn11.u.washington.edu>

On Sun, Dec 27, 2009 at 5:37 PM, Geo Hahn <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:
> You likely need a friend in the DMV.  Okay, not a real friend but
> someone who will take an interest in what you want to do and why you
> want to do it.
>
> In my experience finding such a person by just going into the license
> branch is a long shot.

On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 9:01 AM, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I am not sure they do title searches but if you belong to AAA you could try
> their member services.  They do registration so they may have access to the
> info you want.

   Thanks, Geo and Tom.  This seems to be the consensus:  It takes more than just a random person at the DMV.  I'm going to poke around and see what I can find locally.

-Nick Wolf
'62 TR4
Seattle

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Mon Dec 28 23:58:12 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2009 22:58:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0912282258120.28841@hymn11.u.washington.edu>

On Mon, Dec 28, 2009 at 8:58 AM, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I suppose the worst possible outcome would be for the car to show up as
> stolen, in another state, and be confiscated and you prosecuted for
> receiving stolen property.

   Yeah, that would stink.  Not that it hasn't happened to me before:  I once owned a wooden kayak (from Craigslist) that turned out to be hot.  I found out when I stumbled upon a description of my boat on a list of stolen boats at a local shop.  Dang.
   I tracked down the guy who had built it (in Alaska) and gave it back, and he gave me a little money for my sacrifice, but it's just hard to come out ahead in that situation.  Nice guy though... invited me to come up there some summer and build my own.  =)

-Nick Wolf
'62 TR4
Seattle

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 06:56:59 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 08:56:59 EST
Subject: [TR] What do you think ?
Message-ID: <d61.62bac0c4.386b64ab@aol.com>

Andrew,
 
I logged all of my sweat equity (hours I spent working on my car in my  
restorer's shop) plus my own personal hours working at home and it came to 1151 
 hours.  Needless to say those hours were non-billable!!!  I'd have to  go 
back through my invoices to add up the billable hours from the shop owner 
for  things I couldn't do but I would say that 1200 to 1400 total hours would 
not be  unreasonable for a complete body-off-frame restoration of a TR6.
 
So, using my hours and a labor rate of $75/hour for example, if someone  
were to hire a shop to entirely restore a TR6 from "bottom-up" to concours  
condition, the labor component would be at least $90,000.....a number that is  
absolutely frightening by any measure of sanity if that person was doing 
the  restoration in hopes of reselling at a profit!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 12/28/2009 6:28:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
auprichard at comcast.net writes:

List:

Someone recently asked me how many hours it would take to  complete a
frame-off restoration on an old British sports car like a  TR.  

Not withstanding all the variables of such a request (need  for extensive
bodywork, engine rebuild, upgrades, etc.), I replied 1200  hours - based on 
6
hrs/weekend for 4 years for my last project.  But  what do others think ??

Andrew Uprichard
1962 TR3B tucked up for the  winter
1959 TR3A on its way to a new owner in Europe
16 hours into the  latest  project
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are  subscribed as  chip19474 at aol.com

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Dec 29 09:04:19 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 16:04:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] restoration from hell
In-Reply-To: <89151459E8CF4590A145CE0FC9F6EA06@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <349310949.5701431262102659897.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> progress, finally.
> 
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/DSCN4603.JPG
> 
> the underside, engine compartment, and interior are done, but the
> scuttle and
> fenders are still in primer, which, weirdly enough, practically
> matches the
> paint!
> 
> http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/DSCN4604.JPG

Looks great!  I applaud your persistence!  I am actively resisting such a resto on TR44SUE...

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Tue Dec 29 11:02:04 2009
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 10:02:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Revotec Elect. fan Installation Experience (TR6)
Message-ID: <667488.74411.qm@web51307.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all 

After drawing on the collective knowledge of this list on several occassions I wanted to an effort to give something back.  I lack the knowledge to build a nice site so I'll try by e-mail. While working in the UK I collected a few TR parts to fit to my TR6 when I returned home to the US.  One of the parts I collected was a custom fit electric cooling fan kit from Revotec (http://www.revotecdirect.co.uk).

The kit includes everything you need to replace the engine driven fan apart from a shorter harmonic balancer bolt.  I secured a shorter bolt from Moss Europe (contact me for part no. as I think I can find it).  I dodn't know about Patton Machine at the time or I would have used his kit (http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanOrderPrice.htm).  I've just used Patton's trailing arm repair kit and was very (VERY) impressed with the quality of craftsmanship and level of customer service.  I highly recommend his trailing arm kit. 

Back to the fan.  The Revotec kit comes with frames that bolt to the side of the radiator.  No drilling is needed, the frames bolt in with existing bracketry.  This is what brought me to purchase the Revotec kit, nothing goes through the radiator fins.  The instructions are clear and complete.  The wiring harness is of high quality and all wires are long enough to reach their intended desitination via different routes - your harness can be visible or hidden. 

Installation took about 90 minutes but I was taking my time.  Setting the included fan thermostat was easy. 

Driving impressions: I don't notice much of a difference around the neighborhood apart from less fan noise but I do feel a difference at highway speeds probably becuase the engine driven fan required a lot of power to turn at higher rpm ranges. 

All in all a great kit that adds power, mpg and looks great. 

NFI

Thanks for all your help! 
Steve
'69 TR6 CC25805 L (and now O!)

My next project is fitting the Revington TR rear damper kit, I'll let you know how it goes. 

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Tue Dec 29 13:25:34 2009
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 15:25:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch
Message-ID: <4B3A65BE.5040108@frontiernet.net>

I've been cleaning out a lot of old stuff I have around, and I cam 
across a NOS Lucas ignition switch with keys, FS924. This isn't a TR3 
switch, because it's a spring return starter switch. Anyone know what 
cars used this type of starter switch with FS series keys?

I figure I can put it up on Ebay and get something for it.

-- 
George Richardson



__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4627 (20091121) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Tue Dec 29 14:04:34 2009
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 16:04:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?CL_TR2/3__parts?=
Message-ID: <20091229210434.31808.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>

Some parts for the TR2 and 3'rs out there in NC  ...

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/1529022008.html

NFI  Tony

From macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk  Tue Dec 29 15:33:24 2009
From: macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 22:33:24 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] What do you think ?
In-Reply-To: <d61.62bac0c4.386b64ab@aol.com>
References: <d61.62bac0c4.386b64ab@aol.com>
Message-ID: <275683.98556.qm@web28307.mail.ukl.yahoo.com>

Chip Krout wrote:


So, using my hours and a labor rate of $75/hour for
example, if someone  
were to hire a shop to entirely restore a TR6 from
"bottom-up" to concours  
condition, the labor component would be at least
$90,000.....a number that is  
absolutely frightening by any measure of sanity
if that person was doing 
the  restoration in hopes of reselling at a profit!
Not trying to cap your calcs, Chip - but we did similar maths on the rebuild
of "uncle jack" - the '73 Stag I drove *aimlessly* around the US and Canada
this year. 
After the event was over, "uj" won the Stag Concours (382.5 points
out of 400) at Triumphest/NATC and that was after 17,500 miles - so he was
pretty damned good at the Start. 
Joe Pawlak kept a detailed hourly log of all
the work done and while I don't have it to hand it was dedicated core of 12
truly dedicated people (and others from time to time) for 76 weekends @ 2 days
per weekend @ 8 hours per man/day = 14,592 hours. Joe also put in several
hundred more hours on most weeknights working on his own. I think he worked on
a retail labout rate of $85 per hour, so the labour hours 'notional value' is
$1,240,320. Then add in the pledge value to acquire the car, funded so kindly
by many on this list at $6500 and another $12,000 for parts we had to ship out
from the UK and we're looking at a minimum total of $1,258,820.
I'm fairly
sure we won't see anything like that headed in our direction when the car is
finally sold - but  a man can dream................ And one day, someone's
going to become the happy (and fortunate) owner of arguably the best known
Stag west of the Atlantic. Not only the best known but IMHO, undoubtedly the
very best Stag resto I've ever seen. And I've seen many. "Uncle Jack" is still
effectively a brand new car

Jonmac

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Dec 29 17:17:27 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 19:17:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 - center tie rod fulcrum pin removal
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W2353955B6B244272E838C7E5830@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W2353955B6B244272E838C7E5830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <ECE170B8F89F468B8AA66FDAF99E1886@CarlPC>

Ok - I give - is there a secret?

Rebuilding front steering mechanism on the TR3 restoration.

I can't seem to break the pins loose.  All that is left is the center rod & 
the two pins.

Is there something I am missing?  (I'd rather not mess up the pins)

Thanks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 at Jekyll Island,GA
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/
(need to update the pictures 11/27/09)

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 18:18:42 2009
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 20:18:42 EST
Subject: [TR] aeroscreen question
Message-ID: <be3.58a3c0f4.386c0472@aol.com>

Hi all;
 
For some time I have been considering converting to aeroscreens. I've  
driven a lot of cars with aeroscreens and love the way they make a car  feel.
 
My TR3A is early enough to have the factory pre-installed aeroscreen holes  
and bolts. However, I see that Moss clearly states, in reference to its  
aeroscreens, that they do not fit the holes intended for aeroscreens, as 
fitted  to earlier TR's.
 
Does anyone know of a supplier of aeroscreens that will fit the  
pre-drilled/threaded holes, so I don't have to drill new holes?
 
Thanks! Tim
 
Tim Dyer,  Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road, RR3, Ashton, Ontario,  K0A 1B0, Canada 
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Dec 29 21:38:56 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 20:38:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 - center tie rod fulcrum pin removal
In-Reply-To: <ECE170B8F89F468B8AA66FDAF99E1886@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <03.61.07778.069DA3B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> Is there something I am missing?  (I'd rather not mess up the pins)

IMO it's almost certain the Silentblocs will need to be replaced anyway; at
least they never seemed to last more than a few years for me (until I
converted to solid brass anyway).  But this type of tool seems to work to
remove them without further damage:
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/p-6985-tool-aid-61900.aspx

(Note that I don't particularly endorse Tool Warehouse, it was just a
convenient photo)

Two things that may not be obvious (mine did not come with instructions) :

1) You should drive the tool into place far enough that the pin rests on the
curved part of the jaw.

2) If the forcing screw is not long enough, add a spacer of some sort
between the jaw & the pin.  I used a 1/2" impact socket sideways.

Randall

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 05:57:43 2009
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 06:57:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] aeroscreen question
In-Reply-To: <be3.58a3c0f4.386c0472@aol.com>
References: <be3.58a3c0f4.386c0472@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W16BB285D463114593AA093B9790@phx.gbl>

> Does anyone know of a supplier of aeroscreens that will fit the
> pre-drilled/threaded holes, so I don't have to drill new holes?
>
> Thanks! Tim
>


Tim-

You might try Tom Maddock over in the UK - he has made replica feet that will
allow the newer aeroscreens to fit in the existing factory holes.  Here is a
note he put out on the TR Register site:

I shall be at Malvern on the saturday and will bring conversion sets (as
featured in Traction)for anybody

 that wants them.

Mounting feet with the sealing rubbers are #32.00 a pair and the correct
shaped glass is #16.00



email me at UKZ3Man at Yahoo.com.



Regards,
Randy

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/

From DACHNOWP at APTEA.com  Wed Dec 30 08:30:24 2009
From: DACHNOWP at APTEA.com (Dachnowicz, Peter)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 10:30:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
Message-ID: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>

I'm thinking of install a wood dash to my 63 TR4. It is my understanding it
actually screw into the existing metal dash. My question is how do you adjust
the instruments to accommodate for the additional depth of the dash?  I
remember seeing an article on it but seem to have misplaced the location.

Thank you for the help

Peter
551-427-1178

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Wed Dec 30 09:28:58 2009
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 11:28:58 EST
Subject: [TR] Ignition switch
Message-ID: <c91.526754d3.386cd9ca@aol.com>

In a message dated 12/29/2009 4:28:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
gprtech at frontiernet.net writes:

I've  been cleaning out a lot of old stuff I have around, and I cam 
across a NOS  Lucas ignition switch with keys, FS924. This isn't a TR3 
switch, because  it's a spring return starter switch. Anyone know what 
cars used this type  of starter switch with FS series keys?
 
==AM==
Does it have a Lucas part number, such as 34680? If so, it's common fitment 
 to Spitfire, Herald, TR4/4A...and a number of other LBCs.  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Wed Dec 30 10:55:42 2009
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 12:55:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <D0C2284BAF5F4461A163E04F5C765A0C@RAS>

I did this to mine.  The instruments are mounted to the wood dash instead of
the existing insert panel.  No issues with mine.

--
Ian
62 TR4

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dachnowicz, Peter
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 10:30 AM
To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net'
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash

I'm thinking of install a wood dash to my 63 TR4. It is my understanding it
actually screw into the existing metal dash. My question is how do you
adjust
the instruments to accommodate for the additional depth of the dash?  I
remember seeing an article on it but seem to have misplaced the location.

Thank you for the help

Peter
551-427-1178
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are subscribed as lbc.resto at verizon.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed Dec 30 11:03:31 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 11:03:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King?
Message-ID: <09342AAA-1B71-4D06-BE5C-25FF9BC489D8@comcast.net>

List,

I've searched but can't find a replacement gasket (for the bowl to the  
housing) for this gas filter/regulator.  http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=56358

Anyone know where to source it.

The gasket seems to dry out and more than once I've fired up the TR6  
only to find gas pouring out the filter.  The bowl is also made of  
plastic so tightening it only cause it to deform.  If you get one of  
these filters make sure you get one that says it has a glass or alloy  
bowl and not the ones that just say the bowl is transparent (which is  
code for cheap plastic).

I'm hoping Peter A. with Moss reads this and can provide some  
answers.  The filter works well when it doesn't leak and I've tried my  
local gasket/seals company but to no avail.

Thanks in advance.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From mathews at uga.edu  Wed Dec 30 11:18:02 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 13:18:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <4B3B995A.7070809@uga.edu>

If I remember correctly, and I'll look if need be, my 64 Tr4 wood dash 
does not fit over the original dash...

Doug

On 12/30/2009 10:30 AM, Dachnowicz, Peter wrote:
> I'm thinking of install a wood dash to my 63 TR4. It is my understanding it
> actually screw into the existing metal dash. My question is how do you adjust
> the instruments to accommodate for the additional depth of the dash?  I
> remember seeing an article on it but seem to have misplaced the location.
>
> Thank you for the help
>
> Peter
> 551-427-1178

From opposumking at verizon.net  Wed Dec 30 12:40:36 2009
From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:40:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King?
References: <09342AAA-1B71-4D06-BE5C-25FF9BC489D8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C8481B15E3D45408666A32549712D3D@mde.state.md.us>

Couple of possibilities come to mind.

An agriculture or tractor supply store may well have one.  That sort of bowl 
assembly is not uncommon.

Cutting your own gasket from a material sheet is not hard.

Making a gasket out of gasoline proof permatex or like goo would also work.

From ols at bcdef.net  Wed Dec 30 14:06:29 2009
From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 16:06:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] driving light question
Message-ID: <F11B67DD-95A4-463B-9B7D-BB47FB1BCB65@bcdef.net>

Hello all

I have a couple of pairs of driving lights (Lucas 576, and 700) I purchased on
Ebay several years ago.

I know have a little bit of time, and want to put them on a couple of my
cars.

The questions:

1. All of the lights have a threaded tube coming out of the bottom to attach
them. I want to put one of each on a badge bar on my TR3, and am looking for
suggestions on where to put them on my GT6 without having to butcher the car
doing so. How do I do this?

2. The threaded rod coming out of the bottom seems to be 5/8 inches, but not a
standard thread. Does anyone know what size nut fits it?

3. What is the correct bulb for these lights, and where can they be obtained?

Thank you all very much for any help you can give me.

Alex


1958 TR3 TS33884LO
1968 GT6 KC10303
1976 TR6 CF51981U

From wsmith64 at rcn.com  Wed Dec 30 14:11:44 2009
From: wsmith64 at rcn.com (William Smith)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 16:11:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] (no subject)
Message-ID: <7gxd9h0v9vae687s4squowq6.1262207504746@email.android.com>

base64 encoded Mime section invalid - length (0) was wrong.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Dec 30 14:14:40 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 13:14:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King?
In-Reply-To: <09342AAA-1B71-4D06-BE5C-25FF9BC489D8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2A.52.08510.0C2CB3B4@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>

> I've searched but can't find a replacement gasket (for the 
> bowl to the  
> housing) for this gas filter/regulator.  
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=56358
> 
> Anyone know where to source it.

Just find some suitable gasket material, and cut your own.  Your FLAPS
should have it in low cost cork or fiber; or you can order higher
performance materials (eg Buna-N) from MMC.

Randall

From hdrider570 at att.net  Wed Dec 30 15:13:55 2009
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 14:13:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR]  Upgrading to a wood dash
Message-ID: <813117.76248.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I have done this quite a few times over the years.  

The wood dash fits over the metal dash panel. Drill the mounting holes into the metal dash through the wood dash once you are certain it is located properly. 

The center gauges panel is discarded and the 4 gauges and the ash tray mount directly into the wood panel prior to the installation of the wood.

The speedo and tach mount through the wood and the metal dash.  You will need to trim the metal retaining clips a bit to allow for the extra thickness.

The two lights for the ignition and turn signals remain in the metal dash and the wood mounts over it.  They never line up perfectly.

The two fresh air vents stay mounted in the metal dash with the wood mounted over them.

The dash light dimmer remains in the metal dash.

You will need to modify the glove box latch to meet up with the lock striker.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma Ca

From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Wed Dec 30 15:45:02 2009
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 17:45:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <4B3B995A.7070809@uga.edu>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
	<4B3B995A.7070809@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <DC719279781C4188B1898DD1E6FF85BC@RAS>

Mine does, with no issues.

--
Ian
62 TR4

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Doug Mathews
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 1:18 PM
To: Dachnowicz, Peter
Cc: 'triumphs at autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash

If I remember correctly, and I'll look if need be, my 64 Tr4 wood dash 
does not fit over the original dash...

Doug

On 12/30/2009 10:30 AM, Dachnowicz, Peter wrote:
> I'm thinking of install a wood dash to my 63 TR4. It is my understanding
it
> actually screw into the existing metal dash. My question is how do you
adjust
> the instruments to accommodate for the additional depth of the dash?  I
> remember seeing an article on it but seem to have misplaced the location.
>
> Thank you for the help
>
> Peter
> 551-427-1178
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org

You are subscribed as lbc.resto at verizon.net

Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Wed Dec 30 17:21:11 2009
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 18:21:11 -0600
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
References: <2F5EE4D0FA1C204BB5ADF935189C242527199C2E1D@MONFMBCLUS.CORP.GAPTEA.COM>
Message-ID: <BLU111-W22D8229E4125A29D1E2A6FB9780@phx.gbl>

One relatively minor thing to

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Dec 30 17:55:38 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 19:55:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <813117.76248.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <813117.76248.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30912301655h2247c884l4ca279f7faa14be6@mail.gmail.com>

"The two lights for the ignition and turn signals remain in the metal dash
and the wood mounts over it.  They never line up perfectly."

This was how my TR4 was when it came to me. I was not happy to have idiot
lights that I thought looked like an idiot, one eye half closed, one off
centre. I enlarged their holes in the metal dash sufficiently to allow them
to be mounted in the countersunk holes in the wooden dash.

I hope your dash comes with the screw mounting holes pre-drilled. Mine did
not. It is not a simple process to drill it yourself. You have no room for
error and the wood, when held in place, conceals the locations for the
screws and there is very limited access to the back of the upper screw
holes.

Brian



On Wed, Dec 30, 2009 at 5:13 PM, Q <hdrider570 at att.net> wrote:

> I have done this quite a few times over the years.
>
> The wood dash fits over the metal dash panel. Drill the mounting holes into
> the metal dash through the wood dash once you are certain it is located
> properly.
>
> The center gauges panel is discarded and the 4 gauges and the ash tray
> mount directly into the wood panel prior to the installation of the wood.
>
> The speedo and tach mount through the wood and the metal dash.  You will
> need to trim the metal retaining clips a bit to allow for the extra
> thickness.
>
> The two lights for the ignition and turn signals remain in the metal dash
> and the wood mounts over it.  They never line up perfectly.
>
> The two fresh air vents stay mounted in the metal dash with the wood
> mounted over them.
>
> The dash light dimmer remains in the metal dash.
>
> You will need to modify the glove box latch to meet up with the lock
> striker.
>
> Edward Hamer
> Petaluma Ca
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Dec 30 18:03:43 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 20:03:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <813117.76248.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <813117.76248.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200912302003.43735.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

I didn't want to mess with the nice white dash on my 63 but always liked the 
look of the walnut dash.

So I decided to leave the dash as stock on the 63 4 and went out and got a 72 
TR6!

But I have to admit, I believe I am putting in a little more time restoring 
the 6! 15 months and counting!

Happy New Year to all on the Triumphs list

Bob

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Dec 30 19:44:47 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:44:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30912301655h2247c884l4ca279f7faa14be6@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <813117.76248.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<a38798b30912301655h2247c884l4ca279f7faa14be6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pej71d00a5K6Zm805ejNWq@charter.net>

At 07:55 PM 12/30/2009, Brian Jones wrote:

>I hope your dash comes with the screw mounting holes pre-drilled. Mine did
>not. It is not a simple process to drill it yourself. You have no room for
>error and the wood, when held in place, conceals the locations for the
>screws and there is very limited access to the back of the upper screw
>holes.

I don't know exactly how this works, but can you put the screw 
through the metal dash backwards so it pokes out just a little, then 
align the wood dash and press it down?  That should make some dimples 
on the back of the wood dash that you can use to drill through to the 
front.  Be careful not to split the veneer when the drill comes 
through...press the dash down on a scrap piece of wood before you drill, maybe. 

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Wed Dec 30 19:49:27 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 20:49:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] driving light question
Message-ID: <410-220091243124927972@earthlink.net>

Alex,

While I don't have these lights to examine, 5/8 inch is the same as a
metric M16. The common thread pitch for a M16 screw is 2.0mm which is
between 12 and 13 threads per inch. Does that come close to what you are
seeing?


Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN


>
> I have a couple of pairs of driving lights (Lucas 576, and 700) I
purchased on
> Ebay several years ago.
>
>
> The questions:
>
> 2. The threaded rod coming out of the bottom seems to be 5/8 inches, but
not a
> standard thread. Does anyone know what size nut fits it?
>
> 3. What is the correct bulb for these lights, and where can they be
obtained?
>
> Thank you all very much for any help you can give me.
>
> Alex

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Dec 30 21:19:27 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 22:19:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <Pej71d00a5K6Zm805ejNWq@charter.net>
References: <813117.76248.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><a38798b30912301655h2247c884l4ca279f7faa14be6@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pej71d00a5K6Zm805ejNWq@charter.net>
Message-ID: <3CEC147559AD44438CBF84A0159BD2F0@ranteer.local>

use tape on the veneer to avoid splitting.  painter's tape, not duct tape 
<grin>

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Jeff Scarbrough" <fishplate at charter.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 8:44 PM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash

> At 07:55 PM 12/30/2009, Brian Jones wrote:
>
>>I hope your dash comes with the screw mounting holes pre-drilled. Mine did
>>not. It is not a simple process to drill it yourself. You have no room for
>>error and the wood, when held in place, conceals the locations for the
>>screws and there is very limited access to the back of the upper screw
>>holes.
>
> I don't know exactly how this works, but can you put the screw through the 
> metal dash backwards so it pokes out just a little, then align the wood 
> dash and press it down?  That should make some dimples on the back of the 
> wood dash that you can use to drill through to the front.  Be careful not 
> to split the veneer when the drill comes through...press the dash down on 
> a scrap piece of wood before you drill, maybe.

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Dec 31 07:39:21 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 09:39:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King?
In-Reply-To: <09342AAA-1B71-4D06-BE5C-25FF9BC489D8@comcast.net>
References: <09342AAA-1B71-4D06-BE5C-25FF9BC489D8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <35B718C883714F0D8B7B1ABA27E1C614@CarlPC>

One of those items I picked up at a garage sale...  Have one of these and 
thought it might be useful/beneficial for the '3.  Probably in line before 
the standard filter.  Has anyone done same?

I think it would have to be mounted on the block for the in/out to be the 
right direction - or some 'fancy' piping if mounted on the firewall.

Just thinking at this time.  Probably won't do anything until all is back 
together and running like it should be - stock.

Thanks
C


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 1:03 PM
Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King?


> List,
>
> I've searched but can't find a replacement gasket (for the bowl to the 
> housing) for this gas filter/regulator. 
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=56358

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Thu Dec 31 08:01:47 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 10:01:47 EST
Subject: [TR] What do you think ?
Message-ID: <cc4.61981e55.386e16db@aol.com>

Hi John...happy new year....wow - a million plus dollar Stag.....that's got 
 to be a record for even the best of classic British car restorations!  I  
didn't mention that the bulk of work done on my car by the shop owner (the 
stuff  I couldn't do) was billed to me at $25/hour - the labor rate he 
happened to be  using back in 1999 through 2002.  I don't think that I would be 
able to  justify the expense of a restoration of similar quality at today's 
labor  rates and cost of parts....I was truly in the right place at the right  
time:)
 
Chip
 
 
In a message dated 12/29/2009 5:33:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk writes:

 
Chip Krout wrote:


 

So, using my hours and a labor rate of  $75/hour for example, if someone  
were to hire a shop to entirely  restore a TR6 from "bottom-up" to concours 
 
condition, the labor  component would be at least $90,000.....a number that 
is  
absolutely  frightening by any measure of sanity if that person was doing 
the   restoration in hopes of reselling at a profit!

Not  trying to cap your calcs, Chip - but we did similar maths on the 
rebuild of  "uncle jack" - the '73 Stag I drove *aimlessly* around the US and 
Canada this  year. 
After  the event was over, "uj" won the Stag Concours (382.5 points out of 
400) at  Triumphest/NATC and that was after 17,500 miles - so he was pretty 
damned good  at the Start. 
Joe  Pawlak kept a detailed hourly log of all the work done and while I 
don't have  it to hand it was dedicated core of 12 truly dedicated people (and  
others from time to time) for 76 weekends @ 2 days per weekend @ 8 hours  
per man/day = 14,592 hours. Joe also put in several hundred more hours on  
most weeknights working on his own. I think he worked on a retail labout rate  
of $85 per hour, so the labour hours 'notional value' is $1,240,320. Then 
add  in the pledge value to acquire the car, funded so kindly by many on this 
list  at $6500 and another $12,000 for parts we had to ship out from the UK 
and  we're looking at a minimum total of $1,258,820.
I'm  fairly sure we won't see anything like that headed in our direction 
when the  car is finally sold - but  a man can dream................ And one 
day,  someone's going to become the happy (and fortunate) owner of arguably 
the best  known Stag west of the Atlantic. Not only the best known but IMHO, 
undoubtedly  the very best Stag resto I've ever seen. And I've seen many. 
"Uncle Jack" is  still effectively a brand new car
 
Jonmac

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 31 08:37:12 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 15:37:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <Pej71d00a5K6Zm805ejNWq@charter.net>
References: <813117.76248.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>,
	<a38798b30912301655h2247c884l4ca279f7faa14be6@mail.gmail.com>,
	<Pej71d00a5K6Zm805ejNWq@charter.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W2ADA0A112D06C3E0D84D2E5780@phx.gbl>

Another method to avoid splitting the venier when drilling is to tape over the
area before drilling.

Best regards,
Tom



> Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2009 21:44:47 -0500
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> From: fishplate at charter.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
>
> At 07:55 PM 12/30/2009, Brian Jones wrote:
>
> >I hope your dash comes with the screw mounting holes pre-drilled. Mine did
> >not. It is not a simple process to drill it yourself. You have no room for
> >error and the wood, when held in place, conceals the locations for the
> >screws and there is very limited access to the back of the upper screw
> >holes.
>
> I don't know exactly how this works, but can you put the screw
> through the metal dash backwards so it pokes out just a little, then
> align the wood dash and press it down?  That should make some dimples
> on the back of the wood dash that you can use to drill through to the
> front.  Be careful not to split the veneer when the drill comes
> through...press the dash down on a scrap piece of wood before you drill,
maybe.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Dec 31 08:55:58 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 15:55:58 +0000
Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King?
In-Reply-To: <35B718C883714F0D8B7B1ABA27E1C614@CarlPC>
References: <09342AAA-1B71-4D06-BE5C-25FF9BC489D8@comcast.net>,
	<35B718C883714F0D8B7B1ABA27E1C614@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W3521366CC823EDA36324CE5780@phx.gbl>

My experience is that a fuel filter is best mounted in an area that is not
affected much by engine heat.  If mounted where it will pick up engine heat
the fuel will be heated, and consequently thinned, reducing performance.  Thus
the block and firewall are not the best places.

Best regards,

Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/

From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Thu Dec 31 10:29:20 2009
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 09:29:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] FS 924 lock insert, Ignition switch
Message-ID: <493293.68466.qm@web36805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Selling a used switch on e-bay, I would show the Lucas part number when you place the ad. It has been me experience that the FS### lock inserts were used on late mode cars around 63' on up depending what was left on the shelf. The Triumph Spitefire and MG Midget switch I purchase at flea market usully had the key code number stamped on the face. 

Looking for lock insert with the letters/number FA 511 & FS 955.

Believe the British car industry stop showing the key code number on the face of the switch to prevent theft. I have a old copy of Road and Track with a picture of two Bobbie's with one looking in the window to see the key code number and 2nd one with a box of pre-cut keys on the ground to look the key that will open the door.

George, I can advise you of the use of the switch with the Part number found on the side of the switch.

Happy New Year

Pete Groh (KeyGuy)   
9957 Frederick Rd 
Ellicott City, Md. 21042-3647 U.S.A.
Phone 410 750-2352 evening  

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Dec 31 10:42:43 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 17:42:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W2ADA0A112D06C3E0D84D2E5780@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <626597174.6408791262281363820.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Another method to avoid splitting the venier when drilling is to tape
> over the
> area before drilling.
> 
> Best regards,
> Tom

I'd suggest doing both.  Buy a fresh roll of good masking tape.  Then clamp the dash to a piece of hardwood.  Use a sharp drill.  You only get one chance to do this right, so going over the top on prep may be worth it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L
1979 Caterham 7
1994 Miata C-package
2004 Suburban 8.1
2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Thu Dec 31 12:37:26 2009
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 11:37:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Gasket for Filter King?
Message-ID: <330679.27039.qm@web80403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greetings Bud,

If the diameter of the bowl of the 'filter king' is the same
as the diameter of the sediment bowl on a std AC fuel pump found on a TR4 (2
inches) NAPA part #730-9510 will work.  This gasket is good quality rubber and
provides a better seal than a cork gasket.

Best wishes for the New Year.

Jay
'64 Tiumph TR4 since '67

From cak at dimebank.com  Thu Dec 31 16:36:46 2009
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 15:36:46 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] driving light question
Message-ID: <200912312336.nBVNakwY009198@moose.dimebank.com>

Are these lights old production or new? 

If new, they're probably metric. If old, they're possibly Whitworth.
What's the thread count?

The GT6 doesn't have great places to mount such things - you'll
end up making a bracket.

chris

From L1J1S at aol.com  Thu Dec 31 17:08:40 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:08:40 EST
Subject: [TR] greetings
Message-ID: <cce.62300933.386e9708@aol.com>

list, HAPPY NEW YEAR  larry schwartz

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Dec 31 17:21:14 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:21:14 EST
Subject: [TR] Upgrading to a wood dash
Message-ID: <cdf.62014fe2.386e99fa@cs.com>

In a message dated 12/31/2009 12:56:35 PM Central Standard Time, 
pethier at comcast.net writes: 
> I'd suggest doing both.  Buy a fresh roll of good masking tape.  Then 
> clamp the dash to a piece of hardwood.  Use a sharp drill.  You only get one 
> chance to do this right, so going over the top on prep may be worth it.
> 

Not if you drill a small pilot hole and then flip it over and drill the 
proper size from the front.

Dave

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu Dec 31 17:54:45 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2009 18:54:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] driving light question
References: <F11B67DD-95A4-463B-9B7D-BB47FB1BCB65@bcdef.net>
Message-ID: <961A472362EB4901A6E308D216B828B8@trigeni.com>

It is possible that the threads are BSP (British Standard Pipe) for 
non-pressure-tight joints.  A 3/8" BSP thread is a scootch over 5/8" OD 
(0.656" to be precise) and has a Whitworth thread form, with 19 threads per 
inch.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alexander Delis" <ols at bcdef.net>
To: "List Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2009 3:06 PM
Subject: [TR] driving light question


> Hello all
>
> I have a couple of pairs of driving lights (Lucas 576, and 700) I 
> purchased on
> Ebay several years ago.
>
> I know have a little bit of time, and want to put them on a couple of my
> cars.
>
> The questions:
>
> 1. All of the lights have a threaded tube coming out of the bottom to 
> attach
> them. I want to put one of each on a badge bar on my TR3, and am looking 
> for
> suggestions on where to put them on my GT6 without having to butcher the 
> car
> doing so. How do I do this?
>
> 2. The threaded rod coming out of the bottom seems to be 5/8 inches, but 
> not a
> standard thread. Does anyone know what size nut fits it?
>
> 3. What is the correct bulb for these lights, and where can they be 
> obtained?
>
> Thank you all very much for any help you can give me.
>
> Alex
>
>
> 1958 TR3 TS33884LO
> 1968 GT6 KC10303
> 1976 TR6 CF51981U
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
> You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sheppjp at aol.com  Tue Dec 29 17:57:23 2009
From: sheppjp at aol.com (sheppjp at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2009 19:57:23 EST
Subject: [TR] 61/62 TR4 for sale
Message-ID: <dab0.57b24d19.386bff73@aol.com>

I have a 1961 titled  TR4 that I have been try to restore for quite  some 
time .I have to many parts to list but, the engine has been rebuilt and is  
out of the car right now along with the Trans. The car is complete and has a  
fiberglass hardtop along with two convert tops and 2 tonneau tops. I would 
like  to find some one who is serious about restoring the car and see if we 
could make  a deal. If you folks know of anyone interested I can be reached 
in Pa. @  610-256-2412 or e-mail me @ sheppjp at aol.com