From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Aug  1 05:11:52 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 01 Aug 2009 07:11:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Quandry - TR3 hinges
Message-ID: <D61261DD60B14AAB960905620B6AEDB8@CarlPC>

Are the hood & trunk hinges the same of different?  I have two sets that
appear to be the same but the parts manual lists them as different.  What is
the difference - maybe they are so close that the ones I have are actually
different.

C

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Aug  1 05:58:07 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 07:58:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Quandry - TR3 hinges
In-Reply-To: <D61261DD60B14AAB960905620B6AEDB8@CarlPC>
References: <D61261DD60B14AAB960905620B6AEDB8@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <200908010758.08224.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 01 August 2009 07:11:52 am Carl TR wrote:
> Are the hood & trunk hinges the same of different?  I have two sets that
> appear to be the same but the parts manual lists them as different.  What
> is the difference - maybe they are so close that the ones I have are
> actually different.
>
> C
Carl,


They are different. I believe the bonnet hinges are a bit longer if I remember.

Also each set have a right and left. They must be installed on their correct 
sides or the bonnet or boot will not open. They will bind.

Bob

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Aug  1 07:00:09 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 01 Aug 2009 09:00:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Quandry - TR3 hinges
In-Reply-To: <200908010758.08224.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <D61261DD60B14AAB960905620B6AEDB8@CarlPC>
	<200908010758.08224.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <D39321ACDBE046A58F1BC550EE853C58@CarlPC>

As I thought - cwap - have two sets of bonnet hinges.  (one set is still in 
packaging so I know it is a bonnet)
one more thing to add to the 'buy it' list

Thanks
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Quandry - TR3 hinges


> On Saturday 01 August 2009 07:11:52 am Carl TR wrote:
>> Are the hood & trunk hinges the same of different?  I have two sets that
>> appear to be the same but the parts manual lists them as different.  What
>> is the difference - maybe they are so close that the ones I have are
>> actually different.
>>
>> C
> Carl,
>
>
> They are different. I believe the bonnet hinges are a bit longer if I 
> remember.
>
> Also each set have a right and left. They must be installed on their 
> correct
> sides or the bonnet or boot will not open. They will bind.
>
> Bob

From mowog73 at sympatico.ca  Sat Aug  1 07:16:25 2009
From: mowog73 at sympatico.ca (Mark Jones)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 09:16:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag (a.k.a. "Uncle Jack") and John Macartney renter
 US of A- visa SOLVED
In-Reply-To: <4A730FB5.9050001@triumphstagclub.org>
References: <4A730FB5.9050001@triumphstagclub.org>
Message-ID: <BAY121-W446D680C42C471B5209EB3C8110@phx.gbl>

I decided to take him across at Sombara/Marine City, because it is a beautiful
drive and also a small border crossing.  Usually the small crossings at better
when there are "issues" and that turned out to be the case.  There was a great
look of releif on John's face when he came out of the US Custom office.



Mark

Bluewater British Car Club.



> The newsflash is, John now has his visa extended via his "new" I-94 form
> until 30 October!! Visa issue SOLVED for the duration of the drive!!!
>
> What does this mean for North American Triumph (and all British Car)
> drivers?
> It means, get your cars on the road to meet up with John over then next
> 9 weeks on this first of its kind epic journey to Triumphest / North
> American Triumph Challenge 2009 in San Luis Obispo. There are many
> folks planning on caravaning with John on the last leg down the Pacific
> Coast Highway to SLO, this will be one of the greatest caravans of
> Triumphs EVER!! I am currently tallying all the Triumphs that have
> participated in some part of this drive and hope to have tallies ready
> by SLO.

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  1 07:45:31 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 06:45:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Quandry - TR3 hinges
In-Reply-To: <D39321ACDBE046A58F1BC550EE853C58@CarlPC>
References: <D61261DD60B14AAB960905620B6AEDB8@CarlPC>
	<200908010758.08224.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<D39321ACDBE046A58F1BC550EE853C58@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908010645h2c01c79ia12526df9f71d9d2@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/1/09, Carl TR <cfmtr3a at verizon.net> wrote:
> As I thought - cwap - have two sets of bonnet hinges...

The other clue is that the boot hinges have a little 'button' cast
into the top side.

For a long while there was a vendor on eBay selling a blister pack of
repro boot hinges that sure looked like bonnet hinges to me.  I sent
him an email to be helpful but I do not think he believed me.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  1 10:37:01 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 09:37:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Quandry - TR3 hinges
In-Reply-To: <D61261DD60B14AAB960905620B6AEDB8@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <20090801163701417.WHPJ11508@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Are the hood & trunk hinges the same of different?  I have two sets that
> appear to be the same but the parts manual lists them as different.  What
> is the difference 

Originals may have been more different, but the reproductions appear to be
exactly the same casting for both hood and trunk.  The only difference is
the location of one of the studs.  The stud on the longer part of the hinge,
nearer the pivot point, is closer to the pivot point for a trunk hinge than
for a hood hinge.  Usually, you can see the molded dimple where the hole for
the other stud would have been drilled and tapped.  I measure roughly 1-3/4"
on the hood, 2-1/4" on the trunk.

The button on top seems to depend on who made the reproduction.  Some have
them, some don't.  In fact, I just noticed that the hood hinges on TS13571L
have the button on one side and not on the other!

Of course you'll be careful not to mix left and right hinges.  The
difference is subtle, but you can see it if you look for it.  The hinge pin
is not parallel to the bottom of the hinge, the tall side goes to the
outside of the car.  Generally, if you get it wrong, one of the hinges will
break in very short order.

BTW, I also usually find I need to shorten the relocated stud for the trunk,
at least for a pre-60K car.  They are supplied so long that they tear up the
seal and hit the body when the lid is closed.  Possibly this would not apply
to the post-60K bodies with the plinth for the hinges, but I cut off more
than the thickness of the plinth.  And that is after I deepen the hole (with
a bottoming tap) to get maximum engagement between the stud and hinge.  I
also use Loctite when reassembling, as I've had a stud pull out on several
hinges.

Randall

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Aug  1 12:19:51 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 11:19:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
Message-ID: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     My TR3 is a leaker. I want to find an engine oil dye so I can see where
it is coming out better. Does anyone have a good online source for dye? I
found these guys.
http://www.pennautotools.com/browseproducts/Dye-Lite-Gasoline-Engine-Oil-UV-D
ye.HTML
     They call it UV dye, so  guess that you have to have a UV light bulb.
Where does someone find a UV light?     TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Sat Aug  1 13:01:49 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 15:01:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
In-Reply-To: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30908011201q4efa09beg92b67d4c46f6b66e@mail.gmail.com>

Bill,
"My TR3 is a leaker" will be truism to many.
A chain of FLAPS near me called PepBoys have a selection of dyes for
detecting leaks of different fluids: oil, coolant, and refrigerant maybe -
there is a selection of different dyes, anyway. PepBoys may be near you too.
Their dye display was next to the oil-additives grotto. They did not offer a
black light, however. This one may do:

http://www.selfdefenseproducts.com/6-Black-Light-p-16468.html

Good luck,

Brian

On Sat, Aug 1, 2009 at 2:19 PM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

>     My TR3 is a leaker. I want to find an engine oil dye so I can see where
> it is coming out better. Does anyone have a good online source for dye? I
> found these guys.
>
> http://www.pennautotools.com/browseproducts/Dye-Lite-Gasoline-Engine-Oil-UV-D
> ye.HTML
>     They call it UV dye, so  guess that you have to have a UV light bulb.
> Where does someone find a UV light?     TIA,
>     Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Sat Aug  1 13:51:52 2009
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton)
Date: Sat, 01 Aug 2009 15:51:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
In-Reply-To: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A749CD8.9010708@suscom-maine.net>

Hi,

Why online? Try your local NAPA store. One ounce of dye is number BK 
765-2661 at about $4 a bottle.

My TR6 is also leaking badly and suspect it may be coming from that lead 
slug / plug just above the oil filter. So may try some dye this week too.

Rick Patton
75 TR6sci
74 TVR 2500M all apart
http://pattonmachine.com/


William Brewer wrote:
>      My TR3 is a leaker. I want to find an engine oil dye so I can see where
> it is coming out better. Does anyone have a good online source for dye? I
>
>   
snip

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  1 15:05:47 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:05:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
In-Reply-To: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908011405t11495267g566f0956376ea209@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/1/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:
>...Where does someone find a UV light?

My local Ace Hardware sells a hand-held battery operated UV light,
perhaps your Ace has them too.

They are sold/used for looking for scorpions in the dark (glow green under UV).

Geo

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  1 15:22:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:22:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30908011201q4efa09beg92b67d4c46f6b66e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090801212202522.ZBIR24863@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> A chain of FLAPS near me called PepBoys have a selection of dyes for
> detecting leaks of different fluids: oil, coolant, and refrigerant maybe 

Kragen/Checker/Shucks/O'Reilly carry them too.

And Home Depot/Lowes/OSH have black light bulbs that will fit a standard
fluorescent desk fixture with an 18" lamp; much cheaper than buying a
purpose-made black light fixture (although not as convenient).

Another tip I've heard is to clean the area thoroughly, then put on a coat
of spray foot powder (the kind that dries to a white powder).  Not only will
it ensure your Triumph never catches athlete's foot, but the powder will
turn dark when it gets wet with oil.

Randall

From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Sat Aug  1 15:36:30 2009
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 17:36:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
In-Reply-To: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B26233B1E498431CBCEBB37F0C74DD19@TomandWendyPC>

There used to be "Head Shops" in the seedier areas of every city.  Now days 
you can buy a UV light bulb at most poster stores, home improvement centers 
or Spencer's Gifts (still in the seedier malls).

>     They call it UV dye, so  guess that you have to have a UV light bulb.
> Where does someone find a UV light?     TIA,
>     Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Sat Aug  1 16:51:13 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 18:51:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] 2009 Ventura, CA British Car Meet Report and Pix
Message-ID: <3694808.1249167073904.JavaMail.root@elwamui-chisos.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Anyone interested in the Ventura British Car Meet can read a report and see the pictures from the meet - click on the link below - It was fun and there were a number of unusual cars that are not often seen anywhere in the States.  Check it out!!


http://www.allcarcentral.com/Ventura_British_Car_Meet_2009.html 

Regards,

Rick Feibusch
British Car Network
Venice, California

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  1 17:10:19 2009
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 19:10:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
In-Reply-To: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<B26233B1E498431CBCEBB37F0C74DD19@TomandWendyPC>
References: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<B26233B1E498431CBCEBB37F0C74DD19@TomandWendyPC>
Message-ID: <SNT120-DS13200360067B3D837ACF7FD6110@phx.gbl>

I beg your pardon - 'Seedier'??   Actually my seeds grew some pretty good 
stuff.  Also, if you still got some Jimi Hendrix posters from 1967, the 
black light can make your garage look pretty cool.
Glenn

> There used to be "Head Shops" in the seedier areas of every city. 

From joe.simcoe at gmail.com  Sat Aug  1 21:49:55 2009
From: joe.simcoe at gmail.com (Joe Simcoe)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 22:49:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] Books and Manuals for Sale
Message-ID: <870ec5210908012049ied8d7b0x99d7d7121c5f8c37@mail.gmail.com>

I am selling off all of my Triumph and British Car manuals and books.  My
wife just listed eight items for me on ebay.
Go to advanced search and search for items being sold by gbsimcoe to find
what I have listed.

All of these items are from my personal collection, most dating back 10 to
15 years.  Unless noted otherwise they are in very very good condition.

If you have an interest in any of the topics, they will make a great
addition to your library.

Joe Simcoe

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  1 22:05:40 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 04:05:40 +0000
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
In-Reply-To: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W670827843ACB6C48C32A1E50E0@phx.gbl>

You can find a UV light in any head shop.

Best regards,

Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_BR_syn
c:082009

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sat Aug  1 22:12:44 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 00:12:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission assembly question
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPKEKLFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi List,
I am going to assemble my TR4A transmission to the motor tomorrow and
hopefully get it into the frame. I was wondering what and how much
lubrication should I put on the pilot bearing for the transmission input
shaft? The bushing looks to be bronze and I wonder if it needs any
lubrication at all?
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  1 22:15:09 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 04:15:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] Engine Oil Dye
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30908011201q4efa09beg92b67d4c46f6b66e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <207031.18920.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<a38798b30908011201q4efa09beg92b67d4c46f6b66e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W46A7815740DD8134521C66E50E0@phx.gbl>

I love it, a "Self Defense Black Light".  When you are accosted by a mugger
you smoke a joint with him and then trip out with the black light shinning on
the graffiti on the walls nearby.  He gets so distracted he forgets about your
wallet.

> http://www.selfdefenseproducts.com/6-Black-Light-p-16468.html

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_BR_syn
c:082009

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug  1 22:59:53 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 21:59:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Transmission assembly question
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPKEKLFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <20090802045954040.UIVC557@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> I was wondering what and how much
> lubrication should I put on the pilot bearing for the transmission input
> shaft? The bushing looks to be bronze and I wonder if it needs any
> lubrication at all?

The book says it is Oilite, so should not need any further lubrication.  I
use a little dry moly anyway, which at least doesn't seem to hurt anything.

Randall

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Aug  1 23:21:19 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 22:21:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] WTB TR6 Parking & Side Lamps
Message-ID: <655281.18242.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am looking for a front left parking light for early TR6 (thru 74). Mine
is banged up, but the lens is good. I also need the little trapezoidal front
side lights. If anyone has any extras in their part bins that they would sell,
please let me know.     TIA,     Bill in Tehachapi

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  2 06:55:58 2009
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 05:55:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag (a.k.a. "Uncle Jack") and John Macartney
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1249149602.18095.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1249149602.18095.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <834420.99456.qm@web37505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

If he'd just snuck in, he could stay as long as he wanted.....no problem.
Chad in Tulsa




Message: 5
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 2009 09:16:25 -0400
From: Mark
Jones <mowog73 at sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: 
To: Glen Merrell
<stagbytriumph at triumphstagclub.org>,
    <triumphs at autox.team.net>, Spitfire
newsgroup
    <spitfires at autox.team.net>, <6pack at autox.team.net>,
   
<tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>, <stag at digest.net>
Message-ID:
<BAY121-W446D680C42C471B5209EB3C8110 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"

I decided to take him across at Sombara/Marine City,
because it is a beautiful
drive and also a small border crossing.  Usually the
small crossings at better
when there are "issues" and that turned out to be
the case.  There was a great
look of releif on John's face when he came out of
the US Custom office.



Mark

Bluewater British Car Club.



> The newsflash
is, John now has his visa extended via his "new" I-94 form
> until 30
October!! Visa issue SOLVED for the duration of the drive!!!
>
> What does
this mean for North American Triumph (and all British Car)
> drivers?
> It
means, get your cars on the road to meet up with John over then next
> 9 weeks
on this first of its kind epic journey to Triumphest / North
> American
Triumph Challenge 2009 in San Luis Obispo. There are many
> folks planning on
caravaning with John on the last leg down the Pacific
> Coast Highway to SLO,
this will be one of the greatest caravans of
> Triumphs EVER!! I am currently
tallying all the Triumphs that have
> participated in some part of this drive
and hope to have tallies ready
> by SLO.

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 09:12:15 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 08:12:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Transmission assembly question
In-Reply-To: <20090802045954040.UIVC557@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090802045954040.UIVC557@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4A75ACCF.8000900@gmail.com>

Randall wrote:
>> I was wondering what and how much
>> lubrication should I put on the pilot bearing for the transmission input
>> shaft? The bushing looks to be bronze and I wonder if it needs any
>> lubrication at all?
>>     
>
> The book says it is Oilite, so should not need any further lubrication.  I
> use a little dry moly anyway, which at least doesn't seem to hurt anything.
>
>   
If memory serves, Oilite is a porous bronze alloy that retains oil 
inside the porous structure.  I tend to soak new Oilite bushings in oil 
overnight before installing them.  I suspect the approved method 
involves heat but I never got around to looking it up.  I also tend to 
smear a little assembly lube on the bushing to shaft surfaces anyway 
just to make assembly easier.  Just a little because I don't want the 
lube to work its way out to the friction surfaces.

TeriAnn

From thebujas at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 10:09:12 2009
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 11:09:12 -0500
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon
In-Reply-To: <mailman.20210.1249225766.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIGELIDHAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

I've just uploaded a 9:56 video of John Macartney following Ashford Little
on the "Tail of the Dragon" to YouTube and linked it from the TTA website.

My favorite part is when Ashford and John get stuck behind a motorcycle that
can't maintain the speed being set by Ashford and you can hear John say at
6:10
"Bloody motorcycles - more trouble than farm tractors!"

Once the motorcycle pulls over at 7:50, their pace picks up considerably.
John shot almost 20 minutes of this drive but YouTube has a 10 minute time
limit and Flickr has a 90 second video time limit.

Links and embedded video of this drive along with four Brits of the Hudson
caravan videos are available at the Triumph TransAmerica website at:
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

Tim Buja - Rockford, IL

From Harrymague at aol.com  Sun Aug  2 10:36:15 2009
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 12:36:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] WTB TR6 Parking & Side Lamps
Message-ID: <d50.537b0c03.37a71a7f@aol.com>

Are you looking for orginal Lucas or repros???  Harry Mague
 
 
In a message dated 8/2/2009 1:52:05 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wsb1960tr3a at att.net writes:

I am looking for a front left parking light for early TR6 (thru  74). Mine
is banged up, but the lens is good. I also need the little  trapezoidal 
front
side lights. If anyone has any extras in their part bins  that they would 
sell,
please let me know.     TIA,   Bill in  Tehachapi
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You  are subscribed as  harrymague at aol.com

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**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
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=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From gdewine at aol.com  Sun Aug  2 11:00:47 2009
From: gdewine at aol.com (gdewine at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 13:00:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear suspension leaf spring question
Message-ID: <8CBE1A9EA9BADC8-1A44-1AAC@webmail-dx01.sysops.aol.com>

I put my 1961 TR3 back on the road several years ago. The car had been dissembled in the late 1970's by the previous owner for a repaint. The car was painted and never reassembled until I purchased it in the late 1990's.
The rear suspension is stiff. The leaf springs are rigid and have no flex. The car is rust free and in amazing condition. 
I am looking for advice on how I can bring? life back to the rear suspension without total disassembly. I am thinking penetrating oil on the leaf springs may help. Advice will be appreciated. I bought rebuilt shocks which I will install shortly. 

Gary
1961 TR3

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug  2 12:18:20 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 14:18:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon
In-Reply-To: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIGELIDHAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
References: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIGELIDHAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <200908021418.21728.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 02 August 2009 12:09:12 pm Ann and Tim Buja wrote:
> I've just uploaded a 9:56 video of John Macartney following Ashford Little
> on the "Tail of the Dragon" to YouTube and linked it from the TTA website.
>
> My favorite part is when Ashford and John get stuck behind a motorcycle
> that can't maintain the speed being set by Ashford and you can hear John
> say at 6:10
> "Bloody motorcycles - more trouble than farm tractors!"
>
> Once the motorcycle pulls over at 7:50, their pace picks up considerably.
> John shot almost 20 minutes of this drive but YouTube has a 10 minute time
> limit and Flickr has a 90 second video time limit.
>
> Links and embedded video of this drive along with four Brits of the Hudson
> caravan videos are available at the Triumph TransAmerica website at:
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> Tim Buja - Rockford, IL
Tim,

Not to be disrespectful but most stock cars, even sport cars cannot keep up 
with a sport or std motorcycle on roads such as the Dragon.

I watched the video but couldn't verify the motorcycle type. I am guessing it 
is one of those very heavy v-twins either a HD or a metric. They handle about 
as good as a tractor!

We have many roads similar to the dragon in upstate NY and I would put either 
my Triumph 98 Tbird or my 74 T140v against any of either my TR3 or TR4 anyday 
and would have no trouble keeping far ahead of either car. The Tbird has 
superior handling for those curves and also the power to get out of those 
curves in a awful hurry. Plus with a top speed of about 140, if there is a 
straight no way a Triumph in standard form could keep up.

But dont get me wrong, I drive my bikes usually to and from work only and use 
the 3 and 4 for show!

Bob

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Sun Aug  2 12:38:06 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TTA)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 12:38:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] TTA - See John's interview in Sarnia Canada
Message-ID: <4A75DD0E.6000104@triumphstagclub.org>

Hello All,

TTA is getting more positive press!
 
On Thursday 30 July 2009, Tara Hagan, reporter for The Observer in 
Sarnia, Ontario Canada interviewed John Macartney on video.
see it here
http://www.theobserver.ca/ArticleDisplay.aspx?archive=true&e=1681952

Right after the audio portion of this interview was aired on a Canadian 
radio station, a lady approached John and the Bluewater British Car Club 
noting she had just heard about this drive and the cause, and wanted to 
know more and how she could help.  This has been the typical response 
everywhere John goes.

This is exactly what this drive is all about folks, increasing awareness 
about PTSD so people can seek out and receive help.
It is not John's private charity or holiday, it is not Glenn's private 
charity, these charities are national charities supporting causes that 
need our help to provide the support to the people who need help to 
lift  themselves out of this PTSD hole.

If any you have more videos and press we can be aware of, do let us know 
so we can post them to the TTA website.

I believe there is an interview from David LaChance of Hemmings coming 
up soon too that will be available on Podcast.

Thanks to everyone who are actively providing support for this drive - 
probably the biggest Triumph gathering for a cause anytime in North America!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA North American Drive Coordinator 2009
TSN Admin
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
Skype,Twitter,FaceBook: StagByTriumph

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 13:03:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 12:03:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 rear suspension leaf spring question
In-Reply-To: <8CBE1A9EA9BADC8-1A44-1AAC@webmail-dx01.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090802190337549.DSFN557@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> I am thinking penetrating oil on the
> leaf springs may help. 

My project TR3 is exactly the same (well, except I did find some rust behind
the stone guards).  PB Blaster on the springs combined with driving seems to
be helping, but I've also been dosing the cross pins, in case the springs
have to come out.

Randall

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Sun Aug  2 13:09:43 2009
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 15:09:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon
In-Reply-To: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIGELIDHAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
References: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIGELIDHAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <web-49965879@mail.presby.edu>

I had an interesting experience on that stretch of road a 
few years ago.  I had driven my TR6 from South Carolina to 
Cade's Cove in the Smokies to meet some Tennessee friends 
for a couple of nights of camping and a climb up Gregory 
Bald to see the flame azealeas.  Because the traffic had 
been bad going into the park from the east, I decided to 
leave Cade's Cove by a small road I found on a map that 
went west and met up with The Tail of the Dragon.  Well, 
that small road was about 15 miles of loose gravel that 
kept me to less than 25 mph all of the way and far less 
than that where I had to ford streams (about 15 times)! 
 What a mistake.  When I finally got to the paved Tail I 
was ready to move, and I really lit into it, all downhill. 
 What a blast.  At the bottom I pulled into a gas station 
for a soda and parked in the middle of about 50 bikers who 
were giving me some funny looks.  One guy with a radio 
came up and wanted to know where the hell I had come from. 
 "Down the Tail," I said, not really knowing what they 
were after.  "Yeah, but no one at the top saw you," was 
his reply.  And just about that time a guy on a Kawasaki 
came tearing down the road and pulled in.  It seems they 
were running "time trials" down the Tail and keeping tabs 
on other motorists to leave plenty of room.  The guys at 
the bottom were looking for the guy on the cycle when I 
appeared.  He surely would have caught me if I hadn't been 
moving pretty fast myself.  Good thing!

Tim
Clinton, SC
1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6

On Sun, 2 Aug 2009 11:09:12 -0500
  "Ann and Tim Buja" <thebujas at comcast.net> wrote:
> I've just uploaded a 9:56 video of John Macartney 
>following Ashford Little
> on the "Tail of the Dragon" to YouTube and linked it 
>from the TTA website.
> 
> My favorite part is when Ashford and John get stuck 
>behind a motorcycle that
> can't maintain the speed being set by Ashford and you 
>can hear John say at
> 6:10
> "Bloody motorcycles - more trouble than farm tractors!"
> 
> Once the motorcycle pulls over at 7:50, their pace picks 
>up considerably.
> John shot almost 20 minutes of this drive but YouTube 
>has a 10 minute time
> limit and Flickr has a 90 second video time limit.
> 
> Links and embedded video of this drive along with four 
>Brits of the Hudson
> caravan videos are available at the Triumph TransAmerica 
>website at:
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> 
> Tim Buja - Rockford, IL
> _______________________________________________

From staffel at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 13:15:28 2009
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 19:15:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
Message-ID: <218819696-1249240772-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1243063551-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Gary: Try this: jack up car with floor jack under diff like in TR owners manual,so rear wheels off ground.

Wire brush springs real good on sides!

Put cardboard under springs!
Spray with PB blaster de rust, let soakn repeat for few days

'Drop car so weight activates springs!

Add few concrete bags to trunk
Repeat till rust breaks and sproings work!
Sherman D Taffel
TR4 Columbia MD
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 14:48:37 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 13:48:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10908021348n6ff367eam5c2f7499ff335f52@mail.gmail.com>

Well, it doesn't sound good. I discovered that it is cylinder #3 that is
banging. Removing that spark plug wire removes the sound and reveals an
engine no noisier than usual.

So what could be banging in there? The lash is fine. I guess I'm going to
have to remove the head to investigate, aren't I.

Any ideas?

Thanks

John Howard

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Sun Aug  2 15:44:48 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 17:44:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10908021348n6ff367eam5c2f7499ff335f52@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPAELDFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

I wonder if you have a bad wrist pin? Probably not, that would make noise if
the plug wire was attached or not though. Before you remove the head, can
you try replacing the rotor and distributor cap? You might have a carbon
track trying to fire two pistons at once. It would be easier than taking the
head off. Run a compression check too first..
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 15:43:46 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 17:43:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
References: <218819696-1249240772-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1243063551-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <41ADFABA1E154351906BE0F4ADE4B51A@DCS78M81>

I never knew that fluif could help sproings,
you learn something new every day  ;^)
Tom

 
> Add few concrete bags to trunk
> Repeat till rust breaks and sproings work!
> Sherman D Taffel
> TR4 Columbia MD

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 15:59:35 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 14:59:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10908021348n6ff367eam5c2f7499ff335f52@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090802215934830.VHNC11508@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Well, it doesn't sound good. I discovered that it is cylinder #3 that is
> banging. Removing that spark plug wire removes the sound and reveals an
> engine no noisier than usual.

Alas, that usually indicates a rod knock, either big end or small end.

I'd probably drop the pan first, on the off chance that it can be dealt with
from underneath.  Might be just a bolt that didn't get torqued or whatever.
But most likely you're going to have to pull the head as well.

Randall

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 16:26:35 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 15:26:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPAELDFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <cd09b7f10908021348n6ff367eam5c2f7499ff335f52@mail.gmail.com>
	<PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPAELDFHAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10908021526t5c73b782ifc7fa45b035ebe29@mail.gmail.com>

I'll certainly try replacing the rotor, but the cap would be difficult since
it's a Mallory dual-point. I tried a compression test but need a new tester
so that will be a few days.
Thanks for your ideas.
John

On Sun, Aug 2, 2009 at 2:44 PM, Dave Connitt <dconnitt at fuse.net> wrote:

> I wonder if you have a bad wrist pin? Probably not, that would make noise
> if
> the plug wire was attached or not though. Before you remove the head, can
> you try replacing the rotor and distributor cap? You might have a carbon
> track trying to fire two pistons at once. It would be easier than taking
> the
> head off. Run a compression check too first..
> Dave Connitt
> '67 TR4A IRS
> http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 16:30:00 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 15:30:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise
In-Reply-To: <721B13BBB3E5408B848AFB2F788C895E@joepentiumnew>
References: <cd09b7f10908021348n6ff367eam5c2f7499ff335f52@mail.gmail.com>
	<721B13BBB3E5408B848AFB2F788C895E@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10908021530k214da718lff45ef35b58f67c8@mail.gmail.com>

So, perhaps the connecting rod is installed improperly? Not torqued down?

Thanks for your input.
John

On Sun, Aug 2, 2009 at 2:54 PM, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:

> I'd suspect a rod knocking.  Taking the plug out relieves the compression
> and resulting strain on the bearing.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee&John Howard
> Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 1:49 PM
> To: triumph list list
> Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise
>
> Well, it doesn't sound good. I discovered that it is cylinder #3 that is
> banging. Removing that spark plug wire removes the sound and reveals an
> engine no noisier than usual.
>
> So what could be banging in there? The lash is fine. I guess I'm going to
> have to remove the head to investigate, aren't I.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
> John Howard
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 16:33:52 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 15:33:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise
In-Reply-To: <20090802215934830.VHNC11508@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <cd09b7f10908021348n6ff367eam5c2f7499ff335f52@mail.gmail.com>
	<20090802215934830.VHNC11508@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10908021533o4bedaf27te4291fbfccb41d74@mail.gmail.com>

Groan. I was afraid of that. I'll keep you all posted on what i find.
Thanks Randall
john

On Sun, Aug 2, 2009 at 2:59 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > Well, it doesn't sound good. I discovered that it is cylinder #3 that is
> > banging. Removing that spark plug wire removes the sound and reveals an
> > engine no noisier than usual.
>
> Alas, that usually indicates a rod knock, either big end or small end.
>
> I'd probably drop the pan first, on the off chance that it can be dealt
> with
> from underneath.  Might be just a bolt that didn't get torqued or whatever.
> But most likely you're going to have to pull the head as well.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sun Aug  2 16:41:00 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 17:41:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] TTA Picnic in Burlington, IL
Message-ID: <D6F4A579CAD946FCA47C63BC5191DB91@trigeni.com>

Just got back from a very pleasant afternoon at ISOA's picnic in Burlington,
in honor of JohnMac and the TTA.  What a great afternoon - some fine looking
cars (including a Triumph Renown in what looked like fairly original
condition), lots of TRs of course, a smattering of MGs (including one of my
favorite cars, a Magnette ZB (I think - it could have been a ZA), a couple of
Loti, and a few other odds and sods.  The food was good, I met some nice
people and was encouraged to join ISOA, and I got to shake JohnMac's hand and
wish him luck.  And, of course, a great perfromance by the greatest garage
band in the world, the Spinal Tappets!  Definitely an 11 in my book.

John's stag was superbly restored - the ISOA guys did a wonderful job and it
has run over 7,000 miles since the rebuild with few problems.  John is a great
speaker and is obviously a great advocate for the PTSD cause.  If any of you
get the chance to attend similar events, I encourage you to do so.  You will
witness a little bit of Triumph history.

Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
2000 Jag XK8
Plainfield, IL

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 16:50:40 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 18:50:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10908021348n6ff367eam5c2f7499ff335f52@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10908021348n6ff367eam5c2f7499ff335f52@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30908021550t6a0cdfebu7a00199d52bcf24a@mail.gmail.com>

John,
That is an interesting conundrum: banging when combusting; not banging when
not combusting. A compression check, as Dave suggests, may give you a clue.
Also check for a cracked exhaust manifold or a loose manifold stud nut.

It could also be a bad valve, seat or piston, and a compression check will
reveal an issue, I'd hope.

Before you take the head off, swap the spark plug with another cylinder and
see if the issue stays at #3.

Let us know how you get on.

Brian

On Sun, Aug 2, 2009 at 4:48 PM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Well, it doesn't sound good. I discovered that it is cylinder #3 that is
> banging. Removing that spark plug wire removes the sound and reveals an
> engine no noisier than usual.
>
> So what could be banging in there? The lash is fine. I guess I'm going to
> have to remove the head to investigate, aren't I.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks
>
> John Howard
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr4zest at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sun Aug  2 16:55:47 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 17:55:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Correction
Message-ID: <9E73C91E30F84ECFBABE9DA653E824AB@trigeni.com>

In my previous post regarding the ISOA's picnic, I mentioned seeing a Triumph
Renown.  After checking ISOA's website, I believe I may have been mistaken and
the car may, in fact, have been a 2000 saloon.  Apologies to all (especially
the owners) if I did, indeed, make that error.

Michael Marr
1960 TR3A
2000 Jag XK8
Plainfield, IL

From staffel at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 16:55:08 2009
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 22:55:08 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
Message-ID: <78235811-1249253953-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1166929940-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Tom- The big Jensen Interceptors had  their rear leaf springs -- fully greased, then fully wrapped. These were called  'gaiters' by the factory! Kept road grime from even getting to the springs and prevented rusting; new meaning to 'British rustproof' (vs oil leaks coating undercarriage of our TR's
Sherman
------Original Message------
From: THOMAS FANSHER
To: Sherman D Taffel
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Aug 2, 2009 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear leaf springs

I never knew that fluif could help sproings,
you learn something new every day  ;^)
Tom

 
> Add few concrete bags to trunk
> Repeat till rust breaks and sproings work!
> Sherman D Taffel
> TR4 Columbia MD



Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From tr3a at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 17:32:37 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 19:32:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <41ADFABA1E154351906BE0F4ADE4B51A@DCS78M81>
References: <218819696-1249240772-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1243063551-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<41ADFABA1E154351906BE0F4ADE4B51A@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <342D6340-A44C-4782-94D2-0B898ADD10A4@comcast.net>

He said he was using a Blackberry. What do you expect? :^)

Michael
Sent from my iPhone :^)

On Aug 2, 2009, at 5:43 PM, "THOMAS FANSHER" <tfansher at comcast.net>  
wrote:

> I never knew that fluif could help sproings,
> you learn something new every day  ;^)
> Tom
>
>> Add few concrete bags to trunk
>> Repeat till rust breaks and sproings work!
>> Sherman D Taffel
>> TR4 Columbia MD
> _______________________________________________

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 18:09:38 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 19:09:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
References: <78235811-1249253953-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1166929940-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <04F40607336B4DD0BEA2691A9389EF40@yourpd3mh0abgs>

you can still buy the gaiters for your springs.  they work great. just 
remember to keep 'em full!
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <staffel at comcast.net>
To: "THOMAS FANSHER" <tfansher at comcast.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 5:55 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear leaf springs


> Tom- The big Jensen Interceptors had  their rear leaf springs -- fully 
> greased, then fully wrapped. These were called  'gaiters' by the factory! 
> Kept road grime from even getting to the springs and prevented rusting; 
> new meaning to 'British rustproof' (vs oil leaks coating undercarriage of 
> our TR's
> Sherman
> ------Original Message------
> From: THOMAS FANSHER
> To: Sherman D Taffel
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Aug 2, 2009 5:43 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Rear leaf springs
>
> I never knew that fluif could help sproings,
> you learn something new every day  ;^)
> Tom
>
>
>> Add few concrete bags to trunk
>> Repeat till rust breaks and sproings work!
>> Sherman D Taffel
>> TR4 Columbia MD
>
>
>
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 19:37:01 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 18:37:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <04F40607336B4DD0BEA2691A9389EF40@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <78235811-1249253953-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1166929940-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<04F40607336B4DD0BEA2691A9389EF40@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <4A763F3D.2030307@gmail.com>

spook01 wrote:
> you can still buy the gaiters for your springs.  they work great. just 
> remember to keep 'em full!
> Best,
> Ray
Geezzz folks, that is so old school.  You need to be more flexible.

To minimize the friction between the individual leaves. I like UHMW 
(ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic layered between the 
leaves.

This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, 
but with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed 
specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and 
anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also 
provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by 
adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 
degrees F.

The plastic tape I like is 0.005" thick, comes on a 3 inch wide roll and 
has 1.5 mils of acrylic adhesive. It can be purchased from McMaster Carr 
(http://www.mcmaster.com/) and is part number 76445A24 (You can do a 
part number search on their site to find the tape).

You disassemble the spring pack and stick the tape to the top side of 
each individual leaf, except for the top leaf of course. This tape 
virtually eliminates the friction between adjacent leaves in the leaf 
pack and dramatically increases the spring's ability to react to bumps 
in the road.

TeriAnn

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Aug  2 20:13:15 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 22:13:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <4A763F3D.2030307@gmail.com>
References: <04F40607336B4DD0BEA2691A9389EF40@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <4A760F7B.17795.D3FC9E9@localhost>

On 2 Aug 2009 at 18:37, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:

> To minimize the friction between the individual leaves.

I confess I've never quite grasped the concept.  People go through 
all that trouble to reduce the damping, then put heavier oil in their 
dampers to increase the damping.

"Engineers, they love to change things!" - Leonard McCoy, MD


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 20:51:53 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 21:51:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
References: <04F40607336B4DD0BEA2691A9389EF40@yourpd3mh0abgs>
	<4A760F7B.17795.D3FC9E9@localhost>
Message-ID: <DD28F87058604CF18E5EA39C7A2F9FF6@yourpd3mh0abgs>

springs support the sprung weight.
shocks minimize oscillations of the springs.
lubed springs work better because they have better reaction time full droop 
to full compression - and vice versa - to keep the wheels in contact with 
the road.
though in a tr4 this may be superfluous!!
Best,
Ray


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear leaf springs


> On 2 Aug 2009 at 18:37, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
>
>> To minimize the friction between the individual leaves.
>
> I confess I've never quite grasped the concept.  People go through
> all that trouble to reduce the damping, then put heavier oil in their
> dampers to increase the damping.
>
> "Engineers, they love to change things!" - Leonard McCoy, MD
>
>
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Aug  2 20:53:56 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 21:53:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
References: <78235811-1249253953-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1166929940-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><04F40607336B4DD0BEA2691A9389EF40@yourpd3mh0abgs>
	<4A763F3D.2030307@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <32B5B730056B425884F932229736647B@yourpd3mh0abgs>

how does it react to grit over the long run?  gaiters keep the springs clean 
as well as greased...
just wondering, as the plastic sure sounds cheaper than the old school way..
Best,
Ray


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear leaf springs


> spook01 wrote:
>> you can still buy the gaiters for your springs.  they work great. just 
>> remember to keep 'em full!
>> Best,
>> Ray
> Geezzz folks, that is so old school.  You need to be more flexible.
>
> To minimize the friction between the individual leaves. I like UHMW 
> (ultra-high molecular weight) Polyethylene plastic layered between the 
> leaves.
>
> This plastic provides a low friction surface, similar to Teflon tape, but 
> with a much higher abrasion and puncture resistance. It was designed 
> specifically for commercial use on chutes, packaging lines, slides, and 
> anywhere high pressure metal to metal sliding contact occurs. It also 
> provides sound dampening, eliminating squeaks and rattles caused by 
> adjacent parts movement. The plastic's temperature range is -40 to +225 
> degrees F.
>
> The plastic tape I like is 0.005" thick, comes on a 3 inch wide roll and 
> has 1.5 mils of acrylic adhesive. It can be purchased from McMaster Carr 
> (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and is part number 76445A24 (You can do a part 
> number search on their site to find the tape).
>
> You disassemble the spring pack and stick the tape to the top side of each 
> individual leaf, except for the top leaf of course. This tape virtually 
> eliminates the friction between adjacent leaves in the leaf pack and 
> dramatically increases the spring's ability to react to bumps in the road.
>
> TeriAnn
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 21:53:41 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 20:53:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <DD28F87058604CF18E5EA39C7A2F9FF6@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <20090803035340876.PHEQ557@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> lubed springs work better because they have better reaction time full
> droop
> to full compression - and vice versa - to keep the wheels in contact with
> the road.

They also rattle your teeth less.  Rusty springs have a huge amount of
'stiction' (aka static friction), which does nothing to control oscillation,
but does cause the suspension to appear solid to small deflections.  And
they also take more-or-less constant force to overcome the friction (once
they are moving); while hydraulic shocks are designed to provide increased
resistance to faster movement.

This is why friction dampers have been obsolete since the Model T ...

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  2 21:55:10 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 20:55:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <4A763F3D.2030307@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090803035510886.NXJS18482@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> The plastic tape I like is 0.005" thick, comes on a 3 inch wide roll and
> has 1.5 mils of acrylic adhesive. It can be purchased from McMaster Carr
> (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and is part number 76445A24 (You can do a
> part number search on their site to find the tape).

Thanks for the tip, TeriAnn.  I was planning to use Teflon next time I had
my springs apart, but I'll get the UHMW PE instead.

Randall

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 22:33:01 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 21:33:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <4A760F7B.17795.D3FC9E9@localhost>
References: <04F40607336B4DD0BEA2691A9389EF40@yourpd3mh0abgs>
	<4A760F7B.17795.D3FC9E9@localhost>
Message-ID: <4A76687D.4000908@gmail.com>

Jim Muller wrote:
> On 2 Aug 2009 at 18:37, TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
>   
>> To minimize the friction between the individual leaves.
>>     
>
> I confess I've never quite grasped the concept.  People go through 
> all that trouble to reduce the damping, then put heavier oil in their 
> dampers to increase the damping.
>
> "Engineers, they love to change things!" - Leonard McCoy, MD
>   

On a TR3 I prefer a stiff front suspension and a little more give in the 
rear.

Just my own preferences.

TeriAnn

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sun Aug  2 22:42:05 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 02 Aug 2009 21:42:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <20090803035510886.NXJS18482@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
References: <20090803035510886.NXJS18482@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4A766A9D.4010301@gmail.com>

Randall wrote:
>> The plastic tape I like is 0.005" thick, comes on a 3 inch wide roll and
>> has 1.5 mils of acrylic adhesive. It can be purchased from McMaster Carr
>> (http://www.mcmaster.com/) and is part number 76445A24 (You can do a
>> part number search on their site to find the tape).
>>     
>
> Thanks for the tip, TeriAnn.  I was planning to use Teflon next time I had
> my springs apart, but I'll get the UHMW PE instead.
>
> Randall
>   
Glad I could be of assistance.  Flabbergasted that I knew something that 
you were unaware of.  I've had UHMW strips between the leaf springs of 
my 1960 Land Rover for almost 11 years now, through mud, sand and just 
about any kind of natural grit you could think of and the plastic is 
still in good condition.

TeriAnn

From jimbpps at cox.net  Sun Aug  2 22:44:36 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder)
Date: Sun, 2 Aug 2009 21:44:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Test
Message-ID: <D0F4BB3B306B4299B69A76137B082DF4@JimofficePC>

TEST --------- Please delete

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug  3 06:33:14 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 08:33:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
Message-ID: <c10.635c0b83.37a8330a@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2009 5:11:05 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tfansher at comcast.net writes: 
> I never knew that fluif could help sproings,
> you learn something new every day  ;^)
> 

That's that Mid-Atlantic accent, Tom.

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug  3 06:44:49 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 08:44:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
Message-ID: <c15.43dc9ce8.37a835c1@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2009 11:14:19 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> They also rattle your teeth less.  Rusty springs have a huge amount of
> 'stiction' (aka static friction), which does nothing to control 
> oscillation,
> but does cause the suspension to appear solid to small deflections.  And
> they also take more-or-less constant force to overcome the friction (once
> they are moving); while hydraulic shocks are designed to provide increased
> resistance to faster movement.
> 

Would that mean non-linear action and therefore less predictability and 
repeatability?  

Dave

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug  3 06:53:51 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 08:53:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
Message-ID: <d06.5b55511b.37a837df@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/2/2009 9:37:58 PM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> I confess I've never quite grasped the concept.  People go through 
> all that trouble to reduce the damping, then put heavier oil in their 
> dampers to increase the damping.
> 
> "Engineers, they love to change things!" - Leonard McCoy, MD
> 

The rational man accepts the world as it is.  The irrational man does not 
accept the world as it is and tries to change it.  Therefore, all progress is 
the result of the actions of the irrational man.

"Logical, completely logical."  Mr. Spock

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Aug  3 07:01:12 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 09:01:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon
Message-ID: <d03.5f585647.37a83998@aol.com>

yes, yes.....that was a great part - video cameras are the best option for  
runs like these.  I rigged up a tripod for my digital camera between  the 
seats in the TR6 for our recent run down Skyline Drive enroute to TRA in  
West Virginia.  I got great video in "movie mode" but I couldn't get loud  
enough audio of the engine, etc.
 
Great video - thanks for posting.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/2/2009 12:38:02 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
thebujas at comcast.net writes:

My  favorite part is when Ashford and John get stuck behind a motorcycle  
that
can't maintain the speed being set by Ashford and you can hear John  say at
6:10
"Bloody motorcycles - more trouble than farm  tractors!"

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug  3 08:24:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 07:24:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <c15.43dc9ce8.37a835c1@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20090803142416061.IUDF24863@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Would that mean non-linear action and therefore less predictability and
> repeatability?

Are you talking about the leaf friction, or the hydraulic dampers?

In either case, linearity has little to do with either predictability or
repeatability.  An ordinary light switch is totally non-linear; yet very
predictable and repeatable.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug  3 08:50:51 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 14:50:51 +0000
Subject: [TR] Son for sale or trade CHEAP.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W22DAE8444F01760BA5FACDE50F0@phx.gbl>

I have just returned from a four month trip to Amsterdam, The Netherlands.   I
was there for medical treatment by specialists in post polio syndrome.

As my son drove me home from SFO he gave me the usual report of the things he
had broken and/or screwed up while I was gone.

Before I left I secured my garage to the point that he was the only person
that could enter it.  So he took one of his friends into the garage to show
him my TR3A.  He has been told to leave my car alone in my absence so many
times I cannot begin to count the times.  This time he opened the bonnet to
show his friend the engine.  He has no idea what happened to my original
bonnet key after he opened the bonnet.

He is 28, 5"8", and 180#s.   He sleeps late and stays up late watching TV at
night.  He can cook enough to feed himself.  He can do a fair job at building
maintenance and is good at selecting tenants for rentals.  He has an excellent
dog, Doberman/Labrador mix, house broken and obedience trained, that can be
part of the deal for a reasonable sum.

I will consider all offers in cash or any trade for an original bonnet key.

Best regards,

Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Get free photo software from Windows Live
http://www.windowslive.com/online/photos?ocid=PID23393::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US
:SI_PH_software:082009

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Mon Aug  3 10:18:03 2009
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:18:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] Help Needed With TR4A Hood Latch
Message-ID: <bf0.56ac90f1.37a867bb@aol.com>

Here's the sad scenerio: 
 
We're installing the hood on my TR4A following a new paint job.
While adjusting the front hinges, we allowed the hood to latch (at the 
back).
Now the latch will not release. 
 
THE RELEASE LEVER IS RETRACTED FULLY (both from inside the car and using 
the emergency cable.)
We removed the hinge bolts by reaching up from below, so the front now 
opens maybe 3 inches.
With a stick and a hook, we were able to poke the latch and pull on it.   
No luck releasing it!

Short of torching a large hole in the rear of the (freshly-painted) hood, 
does anyone have a suggestion for releasing the latch pin, which may have 
sunk too deeply into the latch?
George Haynes

From jat1127 at hotmail.com  Mon Aug  3 10:35:39 2009
From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:35:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR 6   Greenfield  MA
Message-ID: <BLU139-W59BC8EAAF6DEFF2852395B50F0@phx.gbl>

Hello Listers,



 Today I noticed a nice looking and sounding TR 6 in Greenfield, Ma. It was
dark in color.



Someone on the list?

CHEERS
John

John Taylor
Greenfield, Ma
Gloucester, Ma
USA.

* ALWAYS BE SAFE *

Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first.






_________________________________________________________________
Express your personality in color! Preview and select themes for Hotmail..
http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/LearnMore/personalize.aspx?ocid=PID23391::
T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HYGN_express:082009

From wquincy at cox.net  Mon Aug  3 10:35:44 2009
From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 11:35:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Trany fill level
Message-ID: <6671DD8C-B2CB-4F88-91AE-222AB4C45A94@cox.net>

Just curious,

The trany ( with o/d ) in my TR3 has both a "fill to" hole on the  
side of the case, and a dipstick on top. the levels are not the same.  
the dipstick is somewhat higher, about 1 and 1/2 inches more from a  
quart bottle.
  Do I Care ?
nothing better to do in kansas.
Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Aug  3 10:55:20 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 12:55:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Son for sale or trade CHEAP.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W22DAE8444F01760BA5FACDE50F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W22DAE8444F01760BA5FACDE50F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6E19FD35BD4B48F68CC0EEEF9B9E959E@BOBSNEWPC>

My son was 17 when he did stuff like that and it ultimately earned him to a
28 day Outward Bound (http://www.outwardbound.org/) "experience" that
totally turned him around. He graduated college, joined the Air Force and
best of all........never moved back home or asked for money!  

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 10:51 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Son for sale or trade CHEAP.

I have just returned from a four month trip to Amsterdam, The Netherlands.
I
was there for medical treatment by specialists in post polio syndrome.

As my son drove me home from SFO he gave me the usual report of the things
he had broken and/or screwed up while I was gone.

Before I left I secured my garage to the point that he was the only person
that could enter it.  So he took one of his friends into the garage to show
him my TR3A.  He has been told to leave my car alone in my absence so many
times I cannot begin to count the times.  This time he opened the bonnet to
show his friend the engine.  He has no idea what happened to my original
bonnet key after he opened the bonnet.

He is 28, 5"8", and 180#s.   He sleeps late and stays up late watching TV at
night.  He can cook enough to feed himself.  He can do a fair job at
building maintenance and is good at selecting tenants for rentals.  He has
an excellent dog, Doberman/Labrador mix, house broken and obedience trained,
that can be part of the deal for a reasonable sum.

I will consider all offers in cash or any trade for an original bonnet key.

Best regards,

Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Get free photo software from Windows Live
http://www.windowslive.com/online/photos?ocid=PID23393::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-U
S
:SI_PH_software:082009
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug  3 11:15:04 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Mon,  3 Aug 2009 13:15:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon
Message-ID: <20090803131504.CMR90057@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Chip Krout wrote:
> Great video - thanks for posting.

Agreed!  Mr. Little certainly moves out smartly in his 6 too.
--
Jim Muller
whose GT6 was ecstatic driving to work this morning

From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Aug  3 11:14:35 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 17:14:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] Help Needed With TR4A Hood Latch
Message-ID: <mailman.9.1249319750.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Been there with my TR6. Drive over a speed bump.  
------Original Message------
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Help Needed With TR4A Hood Latch
Sent: Aug 3, 2009 12:18 PM

Here's the sad scenerio: 
 
We're installing the hood on my TR4A following a new paint job.
While adjusting the front hinges, we allowed the hood to latch (at the 
back).
Now the latch will not release. 
 
THE RELEASE LEVER IS RETRACTED FULLY (both from inside the car and using 
the emergency cable.)
We removed the hinge bolts by reaching up from below, so the front now 
opens maybe 3 inches.
With a stick and a hook, we were able to poke the latch and pull on it.   
No luck releasing it!

Short of torching a large hole in the rear of the (freshly-painted) hood, 
does anyone have a suggestion for releasing the latch pin, which may have 
sunk too deeply into the latch?
George Haynes
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com

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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Mon Aug  3 12:28:28 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 2009 18:28:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] Son for sale or trade CHEAP.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W22DAE8444F01760BA5FACDE50F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0015174becfcaee5a1047040ef55@google.com>

Tom, Tom, Tom,

I would:

1) Relieve son of house keys.
2) Show son to door; send him off to 'find himself' - and an original coach  
key. Long overdue at 28 years old.
3) Keep dog.

Brian

Tom wrote:
> He is 28, 5"8", and 180#s. He sleeps late and stays up late watching TV at
> night. He can cook enough to feed himself. He can do a fair job at  
> building
> maintenance and is good at selecting tenants for rentals. He has an  
> excellent
> dog, Doberman/Labrador mix, house broken and obedience trained, that can  
> be
> part of the deal for a reasonable sum.
> I will consider all offers in cash or any trade for an original bonnet  
> key.

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Mon Aug  3 12:44:55 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 14:44:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] Son for sale or trade CHEAP.
Message-ID: <d5a.4cf72371.37a88a27@aol.com>

send picture of dog
 
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/3/2009 11:10:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes:

He is  28, 5"8", and 180#s.   He sleeps late and stays up late watching TV  
at
night.  He can cook enough to feed himself.  He can do a fair  job at 
building
maintenance and is good at selecting tenants for  rentals.  He has an 
excellent
dog, Doberman/Labrador mix, house broken  and obedience trained, that can be
part of the deal for a reasonable  sum.


**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug  3 12:54:55 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 11:54:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trany fill level
In-Reply-To: <6671DD8C-B2CB-4F88-91AE-222AB4C45A94@cox.net>
References: <6671DD8C-B2CB-4F88-91AE-222AB4C45A94@cox.net>
Message-ID: <45B640FF11614636AB7CBDD0BCEFF9A8@jdnet.deere.com>

> The trany ( with o/d ) in my TR3 has both a "fill to" hole on the
> side of the case, and a dipstick on top.

That means that someone has installed an earlier top cover; the hole on the
side was added when the dipstick was deleted at around TS50K.

>   Do I Care ?

IMO, no.  The level is simply not all that critical.  I have the same
conversion (didn't want to give up the dipstick) and the higher level
(assuming you are correct, I never checked) seems to work just fine.

-- Randall 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug  3 13:31:27 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Mon,  3 Aug 2009 15:31:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Son for sale or trade CHEAP.
Message-ID: <20090803153127.CMS18617@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

McGaheyRx wrote:
> send picture of dog

Too bad he doesn't have a boat.
--
Jim Muller

From carlsereda at aol.com  Mon Aug  3 17:39:19 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 2009 16:39:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A latch catch
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1249322401.898.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7F2A7ED2.8AAF.40E1.AF2D.AEEE465BF746@aol.com>

George, 
The owner's manual's remedy for broken TR4 release cable is to remove glove
box and rubber grommet near latch and with large screwdrive release latch. In
your technique you may have put side pressure on the spindle arrow head and it
is now catching on the edge of latch or the latch hole no longer being
centered because you moved the hood. I would attempt to relocate the arrowhead
spindle directly over the latch hole and apply moderate pressure down above
latch spindle to help uncatch it from the side of entry hole or from being
stuck to latch plate itself (even though you have it in 'released' mode).
Good luck - and take it slow!
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Here's the sad scenerio: 

We're installing the hood on my TR4A following a new paint job.
While adjusting the front hinges, we allowed the hood to latch (at the 
back).
Now the latch will not release. 

THE RELEASE LEVER IS RETRACTED FULLY (both from inside the car and using 
the emergency cable.)
We removed the hinge bolts by reaching up from below, so the front now 
opens maybe 3 inches.
With a stick and a hook, we were able to poke the latch and pull on it. 
No luck releasing it!

Short of torching a large hole in the rear of the (freshly-painted) hood, 
does anyone have a suggestion for releasing the latch pin, which may have 
sunk too deeply into the latch?
George Haynes

From thomas309 at aol.com  Mon Aug  3 18:18:45 2009
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 20:18:45 EDT
Subject: [TR] Son for sale or trade CHEAP.
Message-ID: <d2b.53b0ce12.37a8d865@aol.com>

Maybe you could just send him to the same obedience school that the dog  
went to!
 
 
In a message dated 8/3/2009 11:10:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes:

I have  just returned from a four month trip to Amsterdam, The  
Netherlands.   I
was there for medical treatment by specialists  in post polio syndrome.

As my son drove me home from SFO he gave me the  usual report of the things 
he
had broken and/or screwed up while I was  gone.

Before I left I secured my garage to the point that he was the  only person
that could enter it.  So he took one of his friends into  the garage to show
him my TR3A.  He has been told to leave my car  alone in my absence so many
times I cannot begin to count the times.   This time he opened the bonnet to
show his friend the engine.  He has  no idea what happened to my original
bonnet key after he opened the  bonnet.

He is 28, 5"8", and 180#s.   He sleeps late and stays  up late watching TV 
at
night.  He can cook enough to feed  himself.  He can do a fair job at 
building
maintenance and is good at  selecting tenants for rentals.  He has an 
excellent
dog,  Doberman/Labrador mix, house broken and obedience trained, that can be
part  of the deal for a reasonable sum.

I will consider all offers in cash or  any trade for an original bonnet key.

Best  regards,

Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Get  free photo software from Windows  Live
http://www.windowslive.com/online/photos?ocid=PID23393::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-U
S
:SI_PH_software:082009
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


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=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Aug  3 18:56:38 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 18:56:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon
In-Reply-To: <200908021418.21728.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIGELIDHAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
	<200908021418.21728.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <54BCF628C9584BAFB29ED010049397E6@bboffice>

Great video, reminds me of the Alpine Loop run that is coming up for the
British Motor Club of Utah on the 15th of this month.  Few trees and more
shear drops on those outside turns.

Has anyone exported John's comment about the motorcycle into a .WAV or .MP3
clip?  Would love to have it but am too technically challenged to rip it
from U-Tube.

Happy trail Sir John!

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 12:18 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: Ann and Tim Buja
Subject: Re: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon

On Sunday 02 August 2009 12:09:12 pm Ann and Tim Buja wrote:
> I've just uploaded a 9:56 video of John Macartney following Ashford 
> Little on the "Tail of the Dragon" to YouTube and linked it from the TTA
website.
>
> My favorite part is when Ashford and John get stuck behind a 
> motorcycle that can't maintain the speed being set by Ashford and you 
> can hear John say at 6:10 "Bloody motorcycles - more trouble than farm 
> tractors!"
>
> Once the motorcycle pulls over at 7:50, their pace picks up considerably.
> John shot almost 20 minutes of this drive but YouTube has a 10 minute 
> time limit and Flickr has a 90 second video time limit.
>
> Links and embedded video of this drive along with four Brits of the 
> Hudson caravan videos are available at the Triumph TransAmerica website
at:
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> Tim Buja - Rockford, IL
Tim,

Not to be disrespectful but most stock cars, even sport cars cannot keep up
with a sport or std motorcycle on roads such as the Dragon.

I watched the video but couldn't verify the motorcycle type. I am guessing
it is one of those very heavy v-twins either a HD or a metric. They handle
about as good as a tractor!

We have many roads similar to the dragon in upstate NY and I would put
either my Triumph 98 Tbird or my 74 T140v against any of either my TR3 or
TR4 anyday and would have no trouble keeping far ahead of either car. The
Tbird has superior handling for those curves and also the power to get out
of those curves in a awful hurry. Plus with a top speed of about 140, if
there is a straight no way a Triumph in standard form could keep up.

But dont get me wrong, I drive my bikes usually to and from work only and
use the 3 and 4 for show!

Bob
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug  3 19:16:47 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 21:16:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
Message-ID: <c01.66601e59.37a8e5ff@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/3/2009 9:39:47 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> Are you talking about the leaf friction, or the hydraulic dampers?

Well, the leaf springs, of course.  The non-linearity of the dampers is the 
desirable bit.

> 
> In either case, linearity has little to do with either predictability or
> repeatability.  An ordinary light switch is totally non-linear; yet very
> predictable and repeatable.


The stiction in the leaf springs is caused by the rust and grit between the 
leaves.  As the leaves move they wear, move or otherwise change the rust, 
pitting grit in there and thereby change the characteristics making the car 
more of a challenge to drive at the limits.  

Kind of like MS windows.  Doing the same thing yields different results

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Mon Aug  3 19:21:30 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 21:21:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trany fill level
Message-ID: <c80.5658d3e3.37a8e71a@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/3/2009 11:53:43 AM Central Daylight Time, 
wquincy at cox.net writes: 
> The trany ( with o/d ) in my TR3 has both a "fill to" hole on the  
> side of the case, and a dipstick on top. the levels are not the same.  
> the dipstick is somewhat higher, about 1 and 1/2 inches more from a  
> quart bottle.
> 
Does that mean there's a box out there with neither?

Dave

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug  3 19:41:44 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 03 Aug 2009 21:41:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon
In-Reply-To: <54BCF628C9584BAFB29ED010049397E6@bboffice>
References: <200908021418.21728.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4A775998.29197.12494C89@localhost>

On 3 Aug 2009 at 18:56, wbeech at flash.net wrote:

> Has anyone exported John's comment about the motorcycle into
> a .WAV or .MP3 clip?

Don't know what you want, but I downloaded a copy of the youtube 
video and I can convert it to an mpg4 if you want.



-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From pfullam at nycap.rr.com  Mon Aug  3 20:10:26 2009
From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter Fullam)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 22:10:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Help Needed With TR4A Hood Latch
In-Reply-To: <bf0.56ac90f1.37a867bb@aol.com>
References: <bf0.56ac90f1.37a867bb@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301ca14a8$bbb56910$33203b30$@rr.com>

Hi George,

Same thing happened to my TR4 years ago. I wiggled into the passenger
footwell with a saber saw and cut a 3x4" hole in the top of it, from the
under side. I reached in with a wrench and unbolted the latch from the
bonnet. I got the latch problem sorted and made a patch for the hole, which
I installed with sheet metal screws. I also replaced the release cable with
a solid wire version from JCWhitney. That was around 1976, and it has been
trouble free ever since.

Pete Fullam

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 12:18 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Help Needed With TR4A Hood Latch

Here's the sad scenerio: 
 
We're installing the hood on my TR4A following a new paint job.
While adjusting the front hinges, we allowed the hood to latch (at the
back).
Now the latch will not release. 
 
THE RELEASE LEVER IS RETRACTED FULLY (both from inside the car and using the
emergency cable.) We removed the hinge bolts by reaching up from below, so
the front now opens maybe 3 inches.
With a stick and a hook, we were able to poke the latch and pull on it.   
No luck releasing it!

Short of torching a large hole in the rear of the (freshly-painted) hood,
does anyone have a suggestion for releasing the latch pin, which may have
sunk too deeply into the latch?
George Haynes
_______________________________________________

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Aug  3 20:11:07 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 22:11:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] polished intakes
Message-ID: <EA7D2E182FD642759F99083385528F59@Alan>

I am heading to TRF this weekend, If someone is interested in a polished
intake, I can take a couple with me.
TR6,4,3 & spits
Email me off list.
Thanks
Al Salvatore

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Aug  3 20:31:51 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 20:31:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon
In-Reply-To: <4A775998.29197.12494C89@localhost>
References: <200908021418.21728.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<4A775998.29197.12494C89@localhost>
Message-ID: <6D1FF0D29271418086A7A948BDB9CB62@bboffice>

Jim,

I just wanted the audio clip of John's comment about the motorcycle.  If you
can send the video in an MP4, I think I can get the clip from that... I have
done it with .AVI files before.

Off-line, of course as the video clip would surly choke the Team.Net server!

Thanks,

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller
Sent: Monday, August 03, 2009 7:42 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TTA Stag on Tail of the Dragon

On 3 Aug 2009 at 18:56, wbeech at flash.net wrote:

> Has anyone exported John's comment about the motorcycle into a .WAV or 
> .MP3 clip?

Don't know what you want, but I downloaded a copy of the youtube video and I
can convert it to an mpg4 if you want.



-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug  3 22:05:32 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2009 21:05:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <c01.66601e59.37a8e5ff@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20090804040532589.LOPA24863@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Kind of like MS windows.  Doing the same thing yields different results

Amen!

Isn't that the definition of insanity, doing the same thing and expecting
different results?  Now all we have to do is figure out whether insanity
leads to MS Windows, or vice versa.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Aug  4 05:56:54 2009
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 07:56:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
Message-ID: <d54.572da3c1.37a97c06@cs.com>

In a message dated 8/3/2009 11:40:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> Isn't that the definition of insanity, doing the same thing and expecting
> different results?  Now all we have to do is figure out whether insanity
> leads to MS Windows, or vice versa.
> 
Sam Levenson said "Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your kids."

Dave

From L1J1S at aol.com  Tue Aug  4 06:02:52 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 08:02:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr-non=judson magneto coil
Message-ID: <cbf.40fd17d3.37a97d6c@aol.com>

list, has anyone ever use a judson magneto coil and if so what did you  
experience?  larry schwartz

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  4 11:35:30 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 10:35:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] missing idle
Message-ID: <855019.24838.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I think there was a thread not too long ago concerning a miss at idle which I
didn't read to carefuly so sorry.

but.............tr-6, S2 cam, new
overhaul.  I've set fuel mixture with colortune and think i have it right. 
adjusted timing from 8-14 ATDC, fiddled with idle setting and just cannot get
a miss at idle to go away.  taking off from stop comes with stuttering and
cruising in 2nd and 3rd (basically at idle) comes with slight
bucking/missing.  

However at higher revs and pulling its very very strong
without miss and feels great.  Any help or suggestions thanks in advance.
gary n.

From spamiam at comcast.net  Tue Aug  4 12:52:38 2009
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 18:52:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] missing idle
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1249408803.22771.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1017285793.8440921249411958372.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Gary,



A stumble coming off idle is sometimes a sign of a lean condition.B  I know
you have set the idle mixture, and presumably it is not too lean.B  But with
the wrong needles, you may be too lean off idle.B  Also, if the carb dashpost
are not working properly then it may be lean temporarilyB when opening the
throttle



-Tony




----- Original Message -----
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 10:35:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] missing idle
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <855019.24838.qm at web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I think there was a thread not too long ago concerning a miss at idle which I
didn't read to carefuly so sorry.

but.............tr-6, S2 cam, new
overhaul. B I've set fuel mixture with colortune and think i have it right.
adjusted timing from 8-14 ATDC, fiddled with idle setting and just cannot get
a miss at idle to go away. B taking off from stop comes with stuttering and
cruising in 2nd and 3rd (basically at idle) comes with slight
bucking/missing. B 

However at higher revs and pulling its very very strong
without miss and feels great. B Any help or suggestions thanks in advance.
gary n.

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Aug  4 13:13:40 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 14:13:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] missing idle
References: <855019.24838.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <24F1E0370FFB4C9283BB53451FAA29BE@trigeni.com>

When I saw the subject, I thought we were back to the "son for sale" issue 
and that the correspondent had been successful!

Mike 

From tdskip at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  4 13:14:22 2009
From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 12:14:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] missing idle (Gary Nafziger)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1249408803.22771.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <60688.66864.qm@web55606.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

How are your carbs?

--- On Tue, 8/4/09, triumphs-request at autox.team.net
<triumphs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:


From: triumphs-request at autox.team.net <triumphs-request at autox.team.net>
Subject: Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 354
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, August 4, 2009, 11:00 AM


From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Subject: [TR] missing idle

but.............tr-6, S2 cam, new
overhaul.  I've set fuel mixture with colortune and think i have it right.
adjusted timing from 8-14 ATDC, fiddled with idle setting and just cannot get
a miss at idle to go away.  taking off from stop comes with stuttering and
cruising in 2nd and 3rd (basically at idle) comes with slight
bucking/missing. 

However at higher revs and pulling its very very strong
without miss and feels great.  Any help or suggestions thanks in advance.
gary n.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Aug  4 13:21:48 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 13:21:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] missing idle
In-Reply-To: <855019.24838.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <855019.24838.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2A725D76-DECF-4E57-955C-B40E1DDA2FE5@comcast.net>

Gary,

Since you have a Colortune does the miss at idle should up as a blip  
in the flame?  I finally fixed a miss at idle (which showed up as a  
yellow flame instead of a blue on the Colortune) by regulating the  
fuel pressure.  Fuel pressure should be at 1-2 psi any more than that  
seems to overwhelm the fuel needle valves for a moment and gives a  
mini "flooding" to the mixture.  Hook up a tee connector in the fuel  
line somewhere between the fuel pump and the carbs and use a vacuum  
gage to check the fuel pressure.  Excess fuel could cause the bucking/ 
missing at cruising speed also.   Oh and I think the timing should be  
around 12 BTDC not ATDC at least that's what mine is set at.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 4, 2009, at 11:35 AM, Gary Nafziger wrote:

> I think there was a thread not too long ago concerning a miss at  
> idle which I
> didn't read to carefuly so sorry.
>
> but.............tr-6, S2 cam, new
> overhaul.  I've set fuel mixture with colortune and think i have it  
> right.
> adjusted timing from 8-14 ATDC, fiddled with idle setting and just  
> cannot get
> a miss at idle to go away.  taking off from stop comes with  
> stuttering and
> cruising in 2nd and 3rd (basically at idle) comes with slight
> bucking/missing.
>
> However at higher revs and pulling its very very strong
> without miss and feels great.  Any help or suggestions thanks in  
> advance.
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
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From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Aug  4 13:28:54 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 15:28:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] missing idle
Message-ID: <cf8.5e6c3a19.37a9e5f6@aol.com>

Gary,
 
This sounds like a Richard Good camshaft.....give him a ring and chat about 
 your timing....I have a Kent Camshaft that is similar in profile to the 
S-2  and I'm at about 20 degrees BTDC (total advance)........every engine is a 
little  different when modified and while I'm not recommending that you 
advance to my  setting, I think you're running too far retarded.  These 
camshafts are  creating valve opening timings and duration that like to see spark 
delivered  sooner than stock.....give Richard a call and see what he says
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/4/2009 2:31:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes:

adjusted  timing from 8-14 ATDC

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Tue Aug  4 13:43:18 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 15:43:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] missing idle
Message-ID: <d52.52949c12.37a9e956@aol.com>

Gary,
 
Excellent point and Tony knows that I experienced this dilemma first hand  
with my TR6 back in 2003 when I was sorting out the engine after 
restoration. 
 
So, I'd like to add to my last email response - the magic solution to many  
lean condition stumbling in TR6's with S-2 or equivalent cams and Stromberg 
 fixed jet (adjustable needle) carbs has been a needle swap to B1E Jaguar  
needles.  These needles have a very friendly profile for modified TR6  
motors in that they deliver more fuel immediately off idle and continue to  
deliver more fuel in adequate proportions over the power band of your  camshaft.  
It's just a suggestion.....I don't know what else you've done to  the 
engine in terms of modifications but keep the idea in mind.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 8/4/2009 3:34:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
spamiam at comcast.net writes:

A  stumble coming off idle is sometimes a sign of a lean  condition

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  4 14:10:50 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 13:10:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] missing idle............yessss typo i meant BTDC   lol
Message-ID: <989404.21491.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

good info from all and thanks!
keep the comments coming!

gary n.

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Tue Aug  4 15:30:02 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 14:30:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>

Well, I got compression readings today: #1 - 135. #2 - 130, #3 - 130, #4 -
135. So that indicates that all is well in the top end, right? And the next
step is to drop the oil pan and see what might be amiss down there?

Beginning to wish I hadn't sold the nice running and good looking 4.  Sigh.

Again, thanks for your help

John Howard

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Aug  4 15:58:56 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 14:58:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Arizona Roadrunner 2009
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908041458w5ef53927v91784f5744feed27@mail.gmail.com>

This is the second year for this event which is a 3-day, no-frills,
800 mile drive around the SouthWest:

http://www.geocities.com/arizona.roadrunner/

I post the link on the off chance someone other than locals might be
interested but also in the hope that it might inspire others to stage
similar drives in their own locales.

For me (and perhaps you) this is the essence of enjoying the car --
2-lane blacktop, twisty roads and a fine assortment of the best
Britain had to offer in the Golden Age of sports cars.

Lack of organization notwithstanding, if you have questions you may pmail me.


Geo

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Aug  4 16:27:55 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 22:27:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <20090803142416061.IUDF24863@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1616135490.8188931249424875454.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>In either case, linearity has little to do with either predictability or
>repeatability. B An ordinary light switch is totally non-linear; yet very
>predictable and repeatable.

I studied English in college, including graduate level history of the English
Language and straight linguistics.B  I learned dialect differences in US
regions, ethnicity, and other nations like Australia ("gogga" equals insect).



They really must add a chapter for Engineer English!B  You guys are
phenomenal!B  I write from an inkwell of my head and your shoe (India
compliment).



:o)



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hamsphire

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug  4 16:52:28 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 17:52:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] need over riders
References: <106527.66473.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <51FE12961A6048A7A8EE990F9CA8B4C2@ranteer.local>

i have a friend who is looking for some tr6 over riders.

anyone have any leads?

please reply all so my friend gets a copy.

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Aug  4 18:06:50 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 20:06:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
Message-ID: <d00.5c9e18e4.37aa271a@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
I just have to ask, how many of you have your Triumphs fixed and plan on  
attending the TRF SP?  I would suspect that everyone would  realize that this 
will be the premier east coast event this year for  people who drive 
Triumphs. Be there or be square as they say.  Drag  Race, Autox, Poker Run & Tours 
what more could you ask for? 
Sound off if you are going to be there.  I'm there with the GT6+
Darrell
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From dlylis at gmail.com  Tue Aug  4 19:24:03 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 01:24:03 +0000
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
Message-ID: <mailman.11.1249435528.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I would love to go but the distance and my employment situation speak otherwise. My plan was to win the bidding for Tom's son and have him drive me but that doesn't look like it is going to work out either. 
------Original Message------
From: TR250Driver at aol.com
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
Sent: Aug 4, 2009 8:06 PM

Hey Guys,
I just have to ask, how many of you have your Triumphs fixed and plan on  
attending the TRF SP?  I would suspect that everyone would  realize that this 
will be the premier east coast event this year for  people who drive 
Triumphs. Be there or be square as they say.  Drag  Race, Autox, Poker Run & Tours 
what more could you ask for? 
Sound off if you are going to be there.  I'm there with the GT6+
Darrell
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)
_______________________________________________

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This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com

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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From triosan at gmail.com  Tue Aug  4 19:31:43 2009
From: triosan at gmail.com (triosan at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 01:31:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] need over riders
Message-ID: <mailman.12.1249435860.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Have 74.5 front. 
------Original Message------
From: oliver
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: Triumph List
To: 6 Pack list
Cc: dvanhorn at monteshelton.com
Subject: [6pack] need over riders
Sent: Aug 4, 2009 15:52

i have a friend who is looking for some tr6 over riders.

anyone have any leads?

please reply all so my friend gets a copy.
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com


Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From tr6parts at charter.net  Tue Aug  4 19:40:34 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 21:40:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] need over riders
References: <106527.66473.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<51FE12961A6048A7A8EE990F9CA8B4C2@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <C9610D7C78F94CB68C0E2338B09839B6@Alan>

I have front and rears for a 74

Al Salvatore


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6 Pack list" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <dvanhorn at monteshelton.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 6:52 PM
Subject: [TR] need over riders


>i have a friend who is looking for some tr6 over riders.
>
> anyone have any leads?
>
> please reply all so my friend gets a copy.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Aug  4 19:50:54 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 21:50:54 EDT
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
Message-ID: <bc9.52443237.37aa3f7e@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/4/2009 9:25:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dlylis at gmail.com writes:

would  love to go but the distance and my employment situation speak 
otherwise. My  plan was to win the bidding for Tom's son and have him drive me but 
that  doesn't look like it is going to work out either. 
------Original  Message------



Hey I understand but one needs to realize that the TRF Summer Party for  
Triumph owners is pretty much like Sturgis is for Harley Davidson guys.   
"Time is a Wasting" folks, fix them & drive them before it is too  late.
Feeling a little old I admit,
Darrell 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Aug  4 19:51:33 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 21:51:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
In-Reply-To: <d00.5c9e18e4.37aa271a@aol.com>
References: <d00.5c9e18e4.37aa271a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W179754C59A3EC0F4AD4F2DBA0D0@phx.gbl>

Evelyn and I will there with her TR8 and my Vintage race spitfire. Jason will
be with us in his Mini Cooper.  Will be arriving Thursday at the Comfort Inn
in Blairsville.

Marty

> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
> Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 20:06:50 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> CC: spitfires at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
>
> Hey Guys,
> I just have to ask, how many of you have your Triumphs fixed and plan on
> attending the TRF SP?  I would suspect that everyone would  realize that
this
> will be the premier east coast event this year for  people who drive
> Triumphs. Be there or be square as they say.  Drag  Race, Autox, Poker Run &
Tours
> what more could you ask for?
> Sound off if you are going to be there.  I'm there with the GT6+
> Darrell
> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
> steps!
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http
://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
> =JulystepsfooterNO115)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com
>
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_________________________________________________________________
Get free photo software from Windows Live
http://www.windowslive.com/online/photos?ocid=PID23393::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US
:SI_PH_software:082009

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug  4 20:14:21 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 21:14:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR7 intake manifolds
References: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501B176BE@mail.ex-centris.net><200812091937.36996.yellowtr@adelphia.net><493F33E8.7020700@dfn.com>
	<E3CF92B35E0B437AB8CB5E9433401604@Bevan>
Message-ID: <0F7139EB279E484FB6A384225CF4673F@ranteer.local>

hi, all.

i have two tr7 intake manifolds.  yours for the shipping from 75244 (Dallas)

contact me off line for pictures, etc.  no carbs or other stuff.  just the 
manifolds.

Oliver 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Aug  4 20:15:17 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 21:15:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
References: <20090805020442.4641D187DE4@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4D26AEB094F44E6685CB92612DE98B61@ranteer.local>

what was the high bid?


>I would love to go but the distance and my employment situation speak 
>otherwise. My plan was to win the bidding for Tom's son and have him drive 
>me but that doesn't look like it is going to work out either.
> ------Original Message------ 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Aug  4 20:18:35 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 2009 22:18:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] missing idle (Gary Nafziger)
In-Reply-To: <60688.66864.qm@web55606.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.5.1249408803.22771.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4A78B3BB.24357.17916485@localhost>

On 4 Aug 2009 at 12:14, Tom Deutsch asked:

> How are your carbs?

And you sodium intake?

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Aug  4 20:29:29 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 2009 22:29:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <1616135490.8188931249424875454.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20090803142416061.IUDF24863@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4A78B649.9630.179B5C09@localhost>

On 4 Aug 2009 at 22:27, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

> >In either case, linearity has little to do with either predictability or
> >repeatability. B An ordinary light switch is totally non-linear; yet very
> >predictable and repeatable.
>
> I studied English in college...
>
> They really must add a chapter for Engineer English!

Well, umm, no, it's perfectly clear and unambiguous.  What part of 
the word "non-linear" seems to be giving you trouble, Terry?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From k_nachman at comcast.net  Tue Aug  4 20:53:43 2009
From: k_nachman at comcast.net (Ken)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 22:53:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
Message-ID: <00cd01ca1577$f1b20df0$d51629d0$@net>

All - I will be leaving Thursday and decided this year to stay at the Super
8 in Indiana. I just didn't feel like packing all the stuff it takes to go
camping. Hope to see everyone there.

Ken Nachman
Richmond Triumph Register
1969 TR6 

From jimbpps at cox.net  Tue Aug  4 21:32:17 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (jimbpps at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 23:32:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] My TR Tour, Day One; PHX to Lone Pine, CA
Message-ID: <20090804233217.YFIEY.13691.imail@eastrmwml43>

John and Matt Reynolds in Matt's TR6 and I in my TR250 left  McDonalds on Cave Creek Highway just off Hwy 17, at a little after 5:00 AM this morning.

We arrived in Lone Pine, CA at about 2:15 this afternoon, 583 miles from when I zeroed my odometer in Scottsdale!

The drive was hot of course, but not nearly as HOT as I remember the similiar drive to Lake Tahoe for Triumphest last October! Leaving that early in the morning really helped. It was almost cool inWickenberg and didn't get really hot until driving west out of Needles and across the Mohave!

It's nice here in Lone Pine now at 8:30 or so, as the sun has set below the Sierra and Mt. Whitney. We had a nice dinner earlier at a very decent Mexican restaurant. 

Both cars are running great! The TR 6 has been faultless, while the TR250 has continued to suffer from a balky hood latch (won't stay latched!) and the O/D won't pull in unless the engine is turning pretty high RPMs! Typical of the beast I'mm afraid!

All for now! We are off at a more reasonable time tomorrow at around 8:30 to Susanville.

Jim

Jim Bauder
Scottsdale, AZ
TR250 CD47L
480-309-9525

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Aug  4 22:15:10 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2009 21:15:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] My TR Tour, Day One; PHX to Lone Pine, CA
In-Reply-To: <20090804233217.YFIEY.13691.imail@eastrmwml43>
References: <20090804233217.YFIEY.13691.imail@eastrmwml43>
Message-ID: <04FA03F59044410984C51BCDE5D107ED@joepentiumnew>

Lone Pine!  Wasn't that the shopping mall in Back to the Future?

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimbpps at cox.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 8:32 PM
To: members at dctra.org; ttscc at yahoogroups.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] My TR Tour, Day One; PHX to Lone Pine, CA

John and Matt Reynolds in Matt's TR6 and I in my TR250 left  McDonalds on
Cave Creek Highway just off Hwy 17, at a little after 5:00 AM this morning.

We arrived in Lone Pine, CA at about 2:15 this afternoon, 583 miles from
when I zeroed my odometer in Scottsdale!

The drive was hot of course, but not nearly as HOT as I remember the
similiar drive to Lake Tahoe for Triumphest last October! Leaving that early
in the morning really helped. It was almost cool inWickenberg and didn't get
really hot until driving west out of Needles and across the Mohave!

It's nice here in Lone Pine now at 8:30 or so, as the sun has set below the
Sierra and Mt. Whitney. We had a nice dinner earlier at a very decent
Mexican restaurant. 

Both cars are running great! The TR 6 has been faultless, while the TR250
has continued to suffer from a balky hood latch (won't stay latched!) and
the O/D won't pull in unless the engine is turning pretty high RPMs! Typical
of the beast I'mm afraid!

All for now! We are off at a more reasonable time tomorrow at around 8:30 to
Susanville.

Jim

Jim Bauder
Scottsdale, AZ
TR250 CD47L
480-309-9525
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

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From eoot at citlink.net  Wed Aug  5 06:57:20 2009
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 08:57:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
References: <d00.5c9e18e4.37aa271a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C01E87E197B3495F98184BC7C73B6249@MyComputski>

I'll be there and looking forward to the drive.  Although in my opinion the 
premier east coast Triumph event was the National TRA meet in Charles Town 
WV in June.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 04, 2009 8:06 PM
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party


> Hey Guys,
> I just have to ask, how many of you have your Triumphs fixed and plan on
> attending the TRF SP?  I would suspect that everyone would  realize that 
> this
> will be the premier east coast event this year for  people who drive
> Triumphs. Be there or be square as they say.  Drag  Race, Autox, Poker Run 
> & Tours
> what more could you ask for?
> Sound off if you are going to be there.  I'm there with the GT6+
> Darrell
> **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 
> easy
> steps!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
> =JulystepsfooterNO115)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  5 11:54:48 2009
From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:54:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
Message-ID: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

This may be of interest to some.

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-guide.html

Doug

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed Aug  5 13:15:38 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 14:15:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>

Is the "hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or "top".


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:54:48 -0700
> From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
> This may be of interest to some.
>
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-gu
ide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Aug  5 14:06:50 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 20:06:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <693227973.9348111249502810032.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

The top.  And I can dig it.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Rich White" <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> wrote:

> From: "Rich White" <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
> To: "TR owners List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 2:15:38 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
> Is the "hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or "top".

From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Aug  5 14:26:52 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 15:26:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B44EA7AF30DA4D7FA9ADF4A9D5D4B204@trigeni.com>

The soft top, undoubtedly.  I thought it was a pretty good description, 
actually!

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rich White" <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
To: "TR owners List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 2:15 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide


> Is the "hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or "top".
>
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Aug  5 14:26:59 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 14:26:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6ADE688C3BAB40B5A30C0CF9A1799645@bboffice>

Top 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 1:16 PM
To: TR owners List
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide

Is the "hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or "top".


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:54:48 -0700
> From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
> This may be of interest to some.
>
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-g
u
ide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
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From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  5 14:46:19 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 13:46:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <860944.31451.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

as its a .co.uk site the "hood" would be the vinyl top with frame.
and i had
forgotten that they where made in Speke, just outside of Liverpool. that would
explain the quality!
frank




________________________________
From: Rich
White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
To: TR owners List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 12:15:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph
- TR4 Buyers guide

Is the "hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or
"top".


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap
pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:54:48
-0700
> From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject:
[TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
> This may be of interest to some.
>
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-gu
ide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
>
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in
part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>
Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
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_______________________________________________

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From jimbyjove at comcast.net  Wed Aug  5 15:25:32 2009
From: jimbyjove at comcast.net (Jim Coleman)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 17:25:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
Message-ID: <000501ca1613$439f3f20$caddbd60$@net>

Hi all!

 

About seven or eight Richmond Triumph Register members will be there -
arriving at various times.  Look forward to seeing everyone.  I'll be
driving my Six.  Would love to bring my 8, but way too  iffy.

 

Jim Coleman

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Aug  5 15:44:13 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 21:44:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <860944.31451.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1720747513.3868111249508653077.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

i would think someone from that part of the country would build a water proof
top!!



----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "Rich White" <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 3:46:19 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide

as its a .co.uk site the "hood" would be the vinyl top with frame.
and i had
forgotten that they where made in Speke, just outside of Liverpool. that would
explain the quality!
frank




________________________________
From: Rich
White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
To: TR owners List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 12:15:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph
- TR4 Buyers guide

Is the "hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or
"top".


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap
pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:54:48
-0700
> From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject:
[TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
> This may be of interest to some.
>
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-gu
ide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
>
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in
part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>
Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

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From dlylis at gmail.com  Wed Aug  5 16:14:12 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 18:14:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908051514q657b2bd1ta9f64ac4b5c77738@mail.gmail.com>

I am sure I will be corrected if wrong, however, I understood that the
2,3,4, motor was originally used in the Vanguard and then adapted for use in
the Ferguson tractor.
At least that is the story I tell to the club member who constantly asks me
where the PTO is for mowing on my TR3A.  Har Har Har.
Meanwhile his MGC GT is puking oil all over the garage floor to the degree
it can't make it to the meeting.  Har , Har , Har

On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 1:54 PM, Doug Mitchell <dmitchel at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> This may be of interest to some.
>
>
> http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-guide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  5 16:27:18 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 15:27:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <1720747513.3868111249508653077.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1720747513.3868111249508653077.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <76086.59546.qm@web111607.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

the skill of the northern craftsman is second to non, any where in the world.
but when building product for the yanks, one has to obey the rules of the shop
steward!
frank




________________________________
From:
"spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Rich White
<rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 2:44:13 PM
Subject:
Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide


i would think someone from that
part of the country would build a water proof top!!



----- Original Message
-----
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "Rich White"
<rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, August
5, 2009 3:46:19 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily
Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide

as its a .co.uk site the "hood" would be the
vinyl top with frame.
and i had
forgotten that they where made in Speke, just
outside of Liverpool. that would
explain the quality!
frank
________________________________
From: Rich
White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
To: TR owners List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009
12:15:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph
- TR4 Buyers guide

Is the
"hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or
"top".


Rich White St.
Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap
pile, that is my car!
See it moves!




> Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:54:48
-0700
> From:
dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject:
[TR] Daily
Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
> This may be of interest to some.
>
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-gu
ide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
>
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in
part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>
Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

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From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Aug  5 16:30:05 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 22:30:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <76086.59546.qm@web111607.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <510154741.3884301249511405595.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

wait a mo!!B  i had a british home market car!!

rayB 



----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: spook01 at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 5:27:18 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide



the skill of the northern craftsman is second to non, any where in the world.
but when building product for the yanks, one has to obey the rules of the shop
steward!
frank




From: "spook01 at comcast.net" <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; Rich White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 2:44:13 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide


i would think someone from that part of the country would build a water proof
top!!



----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "Rich White" <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 3:46:19 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide

as its a .co.uk site the "hood" would be the vinyl top with frame.
and i had
forgotten that they where made in Speke, just outside of Liverpool. that would
explain the quality!
frank




________________________________
From: Rich
White <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
To: TR owners List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 12:15:38 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph
- TR4 Buyers guide

Is the "hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or
"top".


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap
pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 10:54:48
-0700
> From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject:
[TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
> This may be of interest to some.
>
>
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-gu
ide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
>
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in
part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>
Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________

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From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Aug  5 16:42:42 2009
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 18:42:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
	<860944.31451.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B04AA445F02B4A78B04CEA0755B25065@artvac412870f0>

What's this about? The Liverpool area and it's surroundings used to be home 
to some of the best Craftsman
in the Watch Industry from the 17th through 19th centuries before the Swiss 
knocked them off and perfected
production methods.  You don't have an in-law in Speke, do You? :>)
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas,MA
64 TR4
75 TR6
various 18th & 19th C .Liverpool  Fusee Pocket Watches

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "Rich White" <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide


> as its a .co.uk site the "hood" would be the vinyl top with frame.
> and i had
> forgotten that they where made in Speke, just outside of Liverpool. that 
> would
> explain the quality!
> frank

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Aug  5 17:16:23 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 23:16:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
In-Reply-To: <51FE12961A6048A7A8EE990F9CA8B4C2@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Some months ago on the Triumphs list, someone asked about the immortality
(sort of) of various parts that survive replacement during a restoration

About five years ago, I restored my TR3A from the ground up and have been
driving it from ice-out to first snow in New Hampshire, all that time using
the original Lucas coil.B 

Amazing.

Today I swapped it out for a new one, not because it died, but because I was
getting inefficient spark from the wire connection.B  Frankly, I just didn't
like the solder on copper washer connection.B  The replacement has a push on
type.

The coil is fine.B  From 1959 to 2009, it pushed the car like intended.B Fifty
years of service, and it's now on the parts bench, and I can't bring myself to
throw it away. Sort of like an old, loyal horse, I guess, it deserves to be
appreciated in old age.

Crazy.

How do I defend the clutter to my wife?

Terry Smith

New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Aug  5 17:26:47 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 23:26:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Rear leaf springs
In-Reply-To: <4A78B649.9630.179B5C09@localhost>
Message-ID: <1188827453.307431249514807373.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> >In either case, linearity has little to do with either predictability or
> >repeatability. B An ordinary light switch is totally non-linear; yet very
> >predictable and repeatable.
>
> I studied English in college...
>
> They really must add a chapter for Engineer English!

>>>Well, umm, no, it's perfectly clear and unambiguous. B What part of
>>>the word "non-linear" seems to be giving you trouble, Terry?

Must be the "non" part.B  Never could take "non" for an answer!



BTW, David Rogers from Australia is right, "gogga" is South African, not
Australian.B  I plead 35 years away from the reading!



And gadfrey knows, here is the only place I'd claim that!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Wed Aug  5 17:29:55 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 19:29:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder Problem
Message-ID: <154360C49346475EB1B94C7592ECA593@userb38463fba5>

A friend called me today for some help on a TR 6 Master Cylinder rebuild.
Seems that after the rebuild he's having trouble getting the cylinder to bench
bleed from the port that flows to the front disc's. He's aware of the pitfalls
of the warning light union but hasn't gotten to that problem yet.

Any suggestions that I can pass along to him would be appreciated.

Hope to see many at TRF Summer Party this weekend.

JVV

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Wed Aug  5 17:31:38 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 18:31:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W22BB874627B9F84B9BC183E10D0@phx.gbl>

If I had noticed that it was a UK site, I would have known.

Thank you to everyone that helped me out.


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA

'63 TR3B TCF587L

That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!

See it moves!




> From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 14:15:38 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
> Is the "hood" they are complaining about the "bonnet" or "top".
>
>
> Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
>
> '63 TR3B TCF587L
>
> That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
>
> See it moves!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug  5 18:07:39 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 17:07:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60908051514q657b2bd1ta9f64ac4b5c77738@mail.gmail.com>
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<2a7657b60908051514q657b2bd1ta9f64ac4b5c77738@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BCC662EA200241198855E060E7779C2D@jdnet.deere.com>

> I am sure I will be corrected if wrong, however, I understood that the
> 2,3,4, motor was originally used in the Vanguard and then adapted for use
> in
> the Ferguson tractor.

Pretty close.  My understanding was that it was intended from the outset to
be a multi-purpose engine design; and was adapted for several applications
including the Vanguard (it's first usage), the TR2-4 (and variants like the
Italia and Morgan), and of course Ferguson tractors.

But there were substantial differences between the variations; the tractor
version in particular even had a different cylinder block casting.  Not
quite the "same" motor.  If memory serves, the Vanguard version only made 68
bhp; the Ferguson version even less than that.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug  5 18:10:01 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 17:10:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
In-Reply-To: <1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <51FE12961A6048A7A8EE990F9CA8B4C2@ranteer.local>
	<1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <09B8BF40C80442B5B704644534F182AB@jdnet.deere.com>

> How do I defend the clutter to my wife?

It will be essential if you decide to restore the car to Concours condition;
and they don't make them like they used to!

-- Randall 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Wed Aug  5 18:12:03 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 17:12:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <B04AA445F02B4A78B04CEA0755B25065@artvac412870f0>
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl>
	<860944.31451.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B04AA445F02B4A78B04CEA0755B25065@artvac412870f0>
Message-ID: <166384.99634.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

just a little teasing. and some took the bait! :-)
Liverpool and the north
of England had and still have the greatest craftsman. the north was where the
worlds industrial revolution started. the first steam engine/train ran from
Liverpool to Manchester. Stevenson's Rocket.
born raised and educated in
Liverpool im very proud of my roots.
but in the 1960's and 70's the country
was near over-run by Communism, and the trade unions stopped looking after the
good of the tradesman and the quality of their life, and started protecting
and harboring the inept. consequently it was a  pretty poor time for quality
of workmanship and output.
im happy to say most of that has passed now and
life is a lot better in the north. but they where dark days for any industry
that had trade union involvement.


________________________________
From:
Wayne Lee <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 5, 2009 3:42:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph -
TR4 Buyers guide

What's this about? The Liverpool area and it's surroundings
used to be home to some of the best Craftsman
in the Watch Industry from the
17th through 19th centuries before the Swiss knocked them off and perfected
production methods.  You don't have an in-law in Speke, do You? :>)
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas,MA
64 TR4
75 TR6
various 18th & 19th C .Liverpool  Fusee
Pocket Watches

----- Original Message ----- From: "Frank Fisher"
<yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: "Rich White" <rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com>
Cc:
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:46 PM
Subject:
Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide


> as its a .co.uk site the
"hood" would be the vinyl top with frame.
> and i had
> forgotten that they
where made in Speke, just outside of Liverpool. that would
> explain the
quality!
> frank
_______________________________________________

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Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the
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http://www..vtr.org


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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug  5 18:14:58 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 19:14:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
References: <1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <EB9FF5CA49034DF0969930451CA1F66D@ranteer.local>

carry it as a spare


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6 Pack list" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 6:16 PM
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts


> Some months ago on the Triumphs list, someone asked about the immortality
> (sort of) of various parts that survive replacement during a restoration
>
> About five years ago, I restored my TR3A from the ground up and have been
> driving it from ice-out to first snow in New Hampshire, all that time 
> using
> the original Lucas coil.B
>
> Amazing.
>
> Today I swapped it out for a new one, not because it died, but because I 
> was
> getting inefficient spark from the wire connection.B  Frankly, I just 
> didn't
> like the solder on copper washer connection.B  The replacement has a push 
> on
> type.
>
> The coil is fine.B  From 1959 to 2009, it pushed the car like intended.B 
> Fifty
> years of service, and it's now on the parts bench, and I can't bring 
> myself to
> throw it away. Sort of like an old, loyal horse, I guess, it deserves to 
> be
> appreciated in old age.
>
> Crazy.
>
> How do I defend the clutter to my wife?
>
> Terry Smith
>
> New Hampshire

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug  5 18:20:09 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2009 20:20:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
In-Reply-To: <000501ca1613$439f3f20$caddbd60$@net>
Message-ID: <4A79E979.30663.1C4B4C4D@localhost>

I would love to go to the TRF party but we don't get too many free 
weekends.  And the propsect of riding in the GT6 for 9 hours each way 
doesn't appeal so well to my better half.  Have fun for me please.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug  5 18:31:57 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 20:31:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200908052031.58757.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 05 August 2009 01:54:48 pm Doug Mitchell wrote:
> This may be of interest to some.
>
> http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-
>guide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as yellowtr at adelphia.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
Doug and the rest of the TR4 owners out there.

I find the hood (top) on the TR4 to be much better designed than the TR3.

I have been in 2 down pours in the 4 and not a drop inside! Unlike the 3 where 
you need a windshield wiper on the inside as well + a towel to keep the 
windshield clear enough to see.

The top on the 4 is an AMCO and is a fine top. Similar in quality to Robbins on 
the 3 but the attachment design at the windshield is the key, not the quality 
of the top in general.

Bob
http://www.triumphowners.com/1331  
http://www.triumphowners.com/1330
http://www.triumphowners.com/1401 

From cartr4a at ameritech.net  Wed Aug  5 19:16:02 2009
From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 18:16:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <200908052031.58757.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <659586.26136.qm@web80201.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I find it interesting, especially for a UK site, that they describe a TR4,('61-'65) but use a TR-4A picture. 

--- On Wed, 8/5/09, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:


From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: "Doug Mitchell" <dmitchel at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 5, 2009, 7:31 PM


On Wednesday 05 August 2009 01:54:48 pm Doug Mitchell wrote:
> This may be of interest to some.
>
> http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/classiccars/5973039/Triumph-TR4-buying-
>guide.html
>
> Doug
> _______________________________________________

From spitlist at cox.net  Wed Aug  5 19:28:49 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 18:28:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
In-Reply-To: <1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <51FE12961A6048A7A8EE990F9CA8B4C2@ranteer.local>
	<1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <93BE78DDB5E7486B92EF4668D982E824@joepentiumnew>

Ignore her.  That's what I do.  Pretend she doesn't call you things like
Packrat, Clutter King, Slob, etc.

And if you finally find something that works, please let me know!  :)

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 4:16 PM
To: Triumph List; 6 Pack list
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts

Some months ago on the Triumphs list, someone asked about the immortality
(sort of) of various parts that survive replacement during a restoration

About five years ago, I restored my TR3A from the ground up and have been
driving it from ice-out to first snow in New Hampshire, all that time using
the original Lucas coil.B 

Amazing.

Today I swapped it out for a new one, not because it died, but because I was
getting inefficient spark from the wire connection.B  Frankly, I just didn't
like the solder on copper washer connection.B  The replacement has a push on
type.

The coil is fine.B  From 1959 to 2009, it pushed the car like intended.B
Fifty
years of service, and it's now on the parts bench, and I can't bring myself
to
throw it away. Sort of like an old, loyal horse, I guess, it deserves to be
appreciated in old age.

Crazy.

How do I defend the clutter to my wife?

Terry Smith

New Hampshire
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Aug  5 19:41:53 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 20:41:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl><860944.31451.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><B04AA445F02B4A78B04CEA0755B25065@artvac412870f0>
	<166384.99634.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <971FCEF750184FA7ADDA987BCE87364D@trigeni.com>

> of England had and still have the greatest craftsman. the north was where 
> the
> worlds industrial revolution started. the first steam engine/train ran 
> from
> Liverpool to Manchester. Stevenson's Rocket.


Sorry, Frank, I have to correct your steam locomotive history, since I am a 
steam geek as well as a TR geek.  It si generally recognized that Richard 
Trevithick built the first successful steam locomotive, which ran on a 
tramway at the ironworks in Merthyr Tydfil in 1804.  George Stephenson's 
first locomotive was the "Blucher", which he built in 1814.  His first 
railway was actually the Stockton and Darlington Railway, which opened in 
1825.  The L&M followed in 1830.  The Rocket was built around the same time 
and was important because it was the first "modern" locomotive, incoporating 
a fire-tube boiler, induced draft furnace using a blast pipe to provide the 
draft, and driving cylinders that were at about a 40 degree angle to 
horizontal, rather than vertical like all its predecessors.  The Rocket was 
built for the Rainhill Trials, which was a competiton to select the most 
efficient loco for the new L&M railway.  The Rocket won and pretty much all 
successful locos built thereafter incorporated its features.

George Stephenson became the first President of the Institution of 
Mechanical Engineers (of which I am a proud Member), founded in 1847.  His 
son, Robert, was also president of the same institution.  Geo. Stephenson 
also defined the standard track gauge as 4ft 8 1/2 inches, which is still 
the standard in most parts of the world today.

Don't get me started on Isambard Kingdom Brunel, who was the greatest 
engineer of the Victorian age, in my opinion...

Mike

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Wed Aug  5 20:57:29 2009
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 22:57:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] Hood's OPEN!
Message-ID: <c9c.4b0e58a2.37aba099@aol.com>

It took a combination of things to finally pop my TR4A hood latch open.   
The plunger pin on the hood went too deep into the latch and caught on the 
fixed plate below.   It had to be coaxed to dislodge itself;   some tapping on 
a broom handle did the coaxing.   The hood suffered some distortion in the 
process but we seem to have straightened that, too.
Many of you offered suggestions and encouragement.   I tried all but 
driving over speed bumps, as the old guy isn't driveable yet.   Soon!   Oh yeah, I 
stopped short of cutting the 3x4" hole in the firewall, as Pete Fullam had 
to do.   All the help is much appreciated; I was pretty much in panic mode 
when it happened.
Hope I can help the next person who has a problem...
George Haynes


**************
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours 
in just 2 easy steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&amp;
hmpgID=115&amp;bcd=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug  5 20:57:49 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2009 22:57:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
In-Reply-To: <93BE78DDB5E7486B92EF4668D982E824@joepentiumnew>
References: <1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A7A0E6D.11484.1CDBA3F6@localhost>

On 5 Aug 2009 at 18:28, Joe Curry wrote:

> Ignore her.  That's what I do.  Pretend she doesn't call you things like
> Packrat, Clutter King, Slob, etc.
> 
> And if you finally find something that works, please let me know!  :)

There are two ways to argue with a woman.  Neither one of them works.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Wed Aug  5 21:04:17 2009
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2009 23:04:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Scuttle Vent Installation
Message-ID: <4A7A4831.4040305@gmail.com>

Help!  I'm looking for hints on how to install the scuttle vent seal and 
actuating rod on my TR4A.  With the seal in place, it seems impossible 
to get the screws in.  Also, I can't find any orientation that allows 
the actuating rod to be installed when after the vent is installed.  
Does it have to be installed before the vent is installed?  Does the end 
of the rod enter from the "inside" or the "outside"?  (Appears to be 
from the "inside" (from center of car going towards right fender).  
Thanks for any help, I've spent too much time on trial and error on this 
already so I'm hoping someones BTDT.

Ben......

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Aug  5 21:14:24 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2009 21:14:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
In-Reply-To: <C01E87E197B3495F98184BC7C73B6249@MyComputski>
References: <d00.5c9e18e4.37aa271a@aol.com>
	<C01E87E197B3495F98184BC7C73B6249@MyComputski>
Message-ID: <4A7A4A90.7000106@bradakis.com>

TRF, VTR, CRC, sigh.

I would love to attend a TRF Summer Party some day, but living over 
2,000 miles
away certainly factors into the situation.  I hear it is a good time.

A couple of things I had been looking forward to, closer to home, was 
the combined
VTR and Triumphest meet coming up in a few weeks.  But such is not to 
be.  Things
have been slow at the shop where I work on old British cars, seems not 
that many
folks want to spend money on their toys these days.  And Team.Net 
contributions
have been few and far between this year,  shucks.  Not many folks are 
making use of
the  donate  link at the bottom of the messages.  Drat.

Another event of interest within a long day's drive of Salt Lake City is 
the Columbia
River Classic, http://www.crclassic.com a big vintage race coming up.  
Triumphs will
be a prominent feature, including the Kastner Cup race.  Another notable 
event I'll
be missing, sad to say.

Oh well, so it goes.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Aug  5 21:16:40 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2009 21:16:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party
In-Reply-To: <4A79E979.30663.1C4B4C4D@localhost>
References: <4A79E979.30663.1C4B4C4D@localhost>
Message-ID: <4A7A4B18.7080203@bradakis.com>

Jim Muller wrote:
> I would love to go to the TRF party but we don't get too many free 
> weekends.  And the propsect of riding in the GT6 for 9 hours each way 
> doesn't appeal so well to my better half.  
>   
Would that be your "better" half or your "bottom" half ??

mjb.

From banjonut at verizon.net  Wed Aug  5 22:00:13 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Wed, 05 Aug 2009 21:00:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
Message-ID: <0C24DE648A2242DDA70EED483B1870E9@HAMPC>

My theory:  If you've had the parts longer than you've had your wife, they 
don't need any defense.  They came with you as "part of the deal".  Just 
call it a dowry.  :o)

Steve

>How do I defend the clutter to my wife?

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Aug  5 23:34:04 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 23:34:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide now "Leland Lorry-GT"
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21171.1249514197.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21171.1249514197.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BE2AF87F-656A-410F-BC06-96BFDF606181@telus.net>

The next time he does so ask him How his Leland Lorry GT is doing.  
Suggest he re-install the clearance lamps and door signage to bring it  
back to original.

Then invite him to run a serpentine cone set with that nose heavy  
beast.   Must be something about the LLC-GT that affects their owners.  
I've had similar experience with a Brit "C" owner. Most obnoxious twit  
I ever met in "the hobby". Never did take me up on either a slalom  
contest or a drag race. (Dial your own handicap)

Don
67-TR4A-sa
72-TR6


On 5-Aug-09, at 5:16 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: David Lylis <dlylis at gmail.com>
> Date: August 5, 2009 4:14:12 PM MDT (CA)
> To: Doug Mitchell <dmitchel at sbcglobal.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
>
>
> I am sure I will be corrected if wrong, however, I understood that the
> 2,3,4, motor was originally used in the Vanguard and then adapted  
> for use in
> the Ferguson tractor.
> At least that is the story I tell to the club member who constantly  
> asks me
> where the PTO is for mowing on my TR3A.  Har Har Har.
> Meanwhile his MGC GT is puking oil all over the garage floor to the  
> degree
> it can't make it to the meeting.  Har , Har , Har

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Aug  5 23:48:40 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don)
Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 23:48:40 -0600
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21231.1249527485.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21231.1249527485.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F4A1592F-0E5A-4EB4-BE1B-4856E7535D28@telus.net>

I agree with Randall. Jonmac told me as much when I queried him on the  
subject a few years back.

I know you could buy some engine parts from the Massey- Ferguson  
dealer a few years back but that was limited to tappets, push-rods and  
maybe rockers and rocker shaft. Beyond that, smaller bore/pistons,  
different crank throws, camshaft, etc. etc.




On 5-Aug-09, at 8:58 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>> I am sure I will be corrected if wrong, however, I understood that  
>> the
>> 2,3,4, motor was originally used in the Vanguard and then adapted  
>> for use
>> in
>> the Ferguson tractor.
>
> Pretty close.  My understanding was that it was intended from the  
> outset to
> be a multi-purpose engine design; and was adapted for several  
> applications
> including the Vanguard (it's first usage), the TR2-4 (and variants  
> like the
> Italia and Morgan), and of course Ferguson tractors.
>
> But there were substantial differences between the variations; the  
> tractor
> version in particular even had a different cylinder block casting.   
> Not
> quite the "same" motor.  If memory serves, the Vanguard version only  
> made 68
> bhp; the Ferguson version even less than that.
>
> -- Randall 

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Aug  6 00:25:08 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 00:25:08 -0600
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
In-Reply-To: <F4A1592F-0E5A-4EB4-BE1B-4856E7535D28@telus.net>
References: <mailman.21231.1249527485.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<F4A1592F-0E5A-4EB4-BE1B-4856E7535D28@telus.net>
Message-ID: <71903DE964D647588663A96445169734@bboffice>

All know is that when I took my TR3 crank to be turned, the shop could only
find the specs listed under Ferguson.

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Don
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 11:49 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide

I agree with Randall. Jonmac told me as much when I queried him on the
subject a few years back.

I know you could buy some engine parts from the Massey- Ferguson dealer a
few years back but that was limited to tappets, push-rods and maybe rockers
and rocker shaft. Beyond that, smaller bore/pistons, different crank throws,
camshaft, etc. etc.




On 5-Aug-09, at 8:58 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>> I am sure I will be corrected if wrong, however, I understood that 
>> the 2,3,4, motor was originally used in the Vanguard and then adapted 
>> for use in the Ferguson tractor.
>
> Pretty close.  My understanding was that it was intended from the 
> outset to be a multi-purpose engine design; and was adapted for 
> several applications including the Vanguard (it's first usage), the 
> TR2-4 (and variants like the Italia and Morgan), and of course 
> Ferguson tractors.
>
> But there were substantial differences between the variations; the 
> tractor
> version in particular even had a different cylinder block casting.   
> Not
> quite the "same" motor.  If memory serves, the Vanguard version only 
> made 68 bhp; the Ferguson version even less than that.
>
> -- Randall
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From auprichard at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 06:25:17 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 08:25:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
In-Reply-To: <09B8BF40C80442B5B704644534F182AB@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <51FE12961A6048A7A8EE990F9CA8B4C2@ranteer.local><1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<09B8BF40C80442B5B704644534F182AB@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <3F6B574CBE2949E3B0F26243F8EDA82C@DCH6RFC1>

I have had my first TR3 on the road for 5 years, during which time my wife
has enjoyed going for a "stooge"  (an Irish expression for just heading out
on the road, maybe even getting deliberately lost), but has never driven the
car herself. Excuses ranged from fear of damaging anything to uncertainty
with the manual gearbox. Anyway, last week she lost a bet, and had to drive
the car 5 miles. She stepped in, fired her up and drove off:  no stalling,
shifted through all the gears, cornered tightly.......

...makes me wonder if she didn't drive the getaway car in a former life...

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 8:10 PM
To: 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] Forever Parts

> How do I defend the clutter to my wife?

It will be essential if you decide to restore the car to Concours condition;
and they don't make them like they used to!

-- Randall 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Aug  6 08:09:26 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 07:09:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock and Window Seal Removal
Message-ID: <845126.28698.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am stripping down my TR6 doors for painting and have a couple of
questions.
     How do you get the door locks out? They look like they are just set in
there (from behind), but I can't push them out.
     The window seal (the squeegee against the glass). What hold those in and
how do you get them out?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug  6 08:12:04 2009
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (mgowen55 at hotmail.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 10:12:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4A Scuttle Vent Installation
In-Reply-To: <4A7A4831.4040305@gmail.com>
References: <4A7A4831.4040305@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-DS17C0693C464AEC0EC359C0D60A0@phx.gbl>

Ben,
The actuator and spring must be released from the vent lid before the screws 
are accessible. When this is done, the lid can open all the way back.  The 
rod enters from the outside.
 A couple of pics are available at http://tinyurl.com/la2fch
HTH
Glenn



> Help!  I'm looking for hints on how to install the scuttle vent seal and 
> actuating rod on my TR4A.  With the seal in place, it seems impossible to 
> get the screws in.  Also, I can't find any orientation that allows the 
> actuating rod to be installed when after the vent is installed.  Does it 
> have to be installed before the vent is installed?  Does the end of the 
> rod enter from the "inside" or the "outside"?  (Appears to be from the 
> "inside" (from center of car going towards right fender).  Thanks for any 
> help, I've spent too much time on trial and error on this already so I'm 
> hoping someones BTDT. 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug  6 08:20:01 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 14:20:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder Problem
In-Reply-To: <154360C49346475EB1B94C7592ECA593@userb38463fba5>
References: <154360C49346475EB1B94C7592ECA593@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W29271A65E88483D6FC3D0EE50A0@phx.gbl>

TRF used to sell a bench bleeding kit.  I bought one in the mid eighties and
have used it ever since.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_BR_syn
c:082009

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu Aug  6 09:34:49 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 11:34:49 EDT
Subject: [TR] VTR 2010
Message-ID: <ce1.51837fa7.37ac5219@cs.com>

TR List:

Has the location for the National Convention been determined for 2010?

Thanks,

Joe A

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 10:06:34 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 16:06:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] VTR 2010
In-Reply-To: <ce1.51837fa7.37ac5219@cs.com>
Message-ID: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

October 17th 2010B B B B  Jekyll Island, Georgia. A really beautiful setting.

It will be an awesome time and venue.

Tom




----- Original Message -----
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 11:34:49 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [TR] VTR 2010

TR List:

Has the location for the National Convention been determined for 2010?

Thanks,

Joe A
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From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 10:07:52 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 16:07:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  VTR 2010
In-Reply-To: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1424125573.9887041249574872058.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: tfansher at comcast.net
To: N197TR4 at cs.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 12:06:34 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2010




October 17th 2010B B B B  Jekyll Island, Georgia. A really beautiful setting.

It will be an awesome time and venue.

Tom




----- Original Message -----
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 11:34:49 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [TR] VTR 2010

TR List:

Has the location for the National Convention been determined for 2010?

Thanks,

Joe A
_______________________________________________

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 10:52:28 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 16:52:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  VTR 2010
In-Reply-To: <1424125573.9887041249574872058.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1271797538.9675891249577548839.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Oh!  One week after the Lotus Owners Gathering in Gettysburg PA.

I can hear a domestic dispute starting. I don't have room in the trailer for both cars, and I REALLY want the Seven at the LOG. I would not mind bringing the Seven to the VTR and running the autocross as "other British". 

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul MinnGesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug  6 12:18:16 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 11:18:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] David Morrison
Message-ID: <EFDD5565BEB445809DA5CC20B05824EC@joepentiumnew>

Is David Morrison(from Lawrence, KS) on the list?  Or does anyone on the
list know him?  He has a '74 Spit and I need to contact him.

Thanks,
Joe

From dlylis at gmail.com  Thu Aug  6 13:38:55 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 19:38:55 +0000
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
In-Reply-To: <1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <51FE12961A6048A7A8EE990F9CA8B4C2@ranteer.local><1227169575.304661249514183389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.15.1249587614.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

How do I defend the clutter to my wife?

Quote Woddy Allen. "There you go, picking on my hobbies again". 
The parts he was talking about aren't car parts. 

Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: terryrs at comcast.net

Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2009 23:16:23 
To: Triumph List<triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6 Pack list<6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts


Some months ago on the Triumphs list, someone asked about the immortality
(sort of) of various parts that survive replacement during a restoration

About five years ago, I restored my TR3A from the ground up and have been
driving it from ice-out to first snow in New Hampshire, all that time using
the original Lucas coil.B 

Amazing.

Today I swapped it out for a new one, not because it died, but because I was
getting inefficient spark from the wire connection.B  Frankly, I just didn't
like the solder on copper washer connection.B  The replacement has a push on
type.

The coil is fine.B  From 1959 to 2009, it pushed the car like intended.B Fifty
years of service, and it's now on the parts bench, and I can't bring myself to
throw it away. Sort of like an old, loyal horse, I guess, it deserves to be
appreciated in old age.

Crazy.

How do I defend the clutter to my wife?

Terry Smith

New Hampshire
_______________________________________________

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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug  6 16:09:02 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 2009 18:09:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question
In-Reply-To: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC>

I didn't need an excuse for more time.  I had set July 1 as my completion 
date in time for the TR3;   Guess that will give me a few more weeks..... 
:)  October is great time of year in the SE and will definitely be much 
better weather wise.

Didn't realize it until now but the driver's side door has the 'tin can' 
effect.  The panel is pushed in slightly.  I can push it out but it bounces 
right back.  Any ideas on how to fix it?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id7.html

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tfansher at comcast.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2010


> October 17th 2010B B B B  Jekyll Island, Georgia. A really beautiful 
> setting.
>
> It will be an awesome time and venue.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 11:34:49 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: [TR] VTR 2010
>
> TR List:
>
> Has the location for the National Convention been determined for 2010?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe A
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug  6 16:24:07 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 2009 18:24:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3 Door work question
Message-ID: <130B22070B354C039F12C84A88C4648A@CarlPC>

I didn't need an excuse for more time.  I had set July 1 as my completion
 date in time for the TR3;   Guess that will give me a few more weeks.....
:)  October is great time of year in the SE and will definitely be much
 better weather wise.

 Didn't realize it until now but the driver's side door has the 'tin can'
 effect.  The panel is pushed in slightly.  I can push it out but it bounces
 right back.  Any ideas on how to fix it?

 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Carl - Tampa 1961 TR3A TS81802LO Body Off Restoration Completion Date: NATC 2010 http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id7.html> ----- Original Message -----> From: <tfansher at comcast.net>> To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>> Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 12:06 PM> Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2010>>>> October 17th 2010B B B B  Jekyll Island, Georgia. A really beautifulsetting.>>>> It will be an awesome time and venue.>>>> Tom

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 16:46:17 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 22:46:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Forever Parts
In-Reply-To: <09B8BF40C80442B5B704644534F182AB@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1593309778.690671249598777061.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

> How do I defend the clutter to my wife? 

>>It will be essential if you decide to restore the car to Concours condition; 
>>and they don't make them like they used to! 

>>-- Randall 



Bless you, on behalf of husbands everywhere! 



Terry 
_______________________________________________ 

From tr3a at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 17:06:08 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 19:06:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question
In-Reply-To: <8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC>
References: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <D92E603E-808A-49C1-B7CC-987A5628ADA8@comcast.net>

Well, there's always this method. I don't know the first thing about  
body work, but this guy seems to know what he's talking about.  
'Course, we're talking about a repaint after your done. Not to mention  
the possibility of screwing it up. I have a couple of areas with  
oilcanning too, but my car already HAS no paint. Then again, I have no  
torch either!  :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mptiiRLEJs0&feature=PlayList&p=C510ADDFDE0B45E6&playnext=1&index=14

On Aug 6, 2009, at 6:09 PM, Carl TR wrote:
> Didn't realize it until now but the driver's side door has the 'tin  
> can' effect.  The panel is pushed in slightly.  I can push it out  
> but it bounces right back.  Any ideas on how to fix it?
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Carl - Tampa
> 1961 TR3A TS81802LO
> Body Off Restoration
> Completion Date: NATC 2010
> http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id7.html

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug  6 17:18:00 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 16:18:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3 Door work question
In-Reply-To: <130B22070B354C039F12C84A88C4648A@CarlPC>
References: <130B22070B354C039F12C84A88C4648A@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <6D87236AD5EE4592ABA6C4221CE3FC9A@jdnet.deere.com>

>  Didn't realize it until now but the driver's side door has the 'tin can'
>  effect.  

That means the metal is stretched, you have to shrink it somehow.  The
traditional method was to heat a small area with a torch to a dull red glow
(which makes it expand further, forming a dome shape); hammer the dome flat
while still red hot and then quench it with a wet rag.

But there have been other developments like shrinking hammers and shrinking
discs.  The shrinking discs sound most interesting to me, but I've not tried
it for myself.  Google for "metal shrinking", you'll get lots of hits.

-- Randall 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Aug  6 17:27:33 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 19:27:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock and Window Seal Removal
In-Reply-To: <845126.28698.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <845126.28698.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <858C32CBA25543F39B6CE3D71DF41BFC@BOBSNEWPC>

I believe the locks have one of those "C" clips holding it in place from the
rear. The window seal has a series of press on clips that you should be able
to see with the window rolled down. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:09 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock and Window Seal Removal

     I am stripping down my TR6 doors for painting and have a couple of
questions.
     How do you get the door locks out? They look like they are just set in
there (from behind), but I can't push them out.
     The window seal (the squeegee against the glass). What hold those in
and how do you get them out?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From auprichard at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 18:06:25 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 20:06:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question
In-Reply-To: <8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC>
References: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <E2FAE29528564AE2AFAE6FB48F70AAF0@DCH6RFC1>

Is it painted yet?  A metal strip down the inside is a suggestion.  If the
door isn't painted, weld it:  if it is, adhesive may work.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 6:09 PM
To: tfansher at comcast.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question

I didn't need an excuse for more time.  I had set July 1 as my completion 
date in time for the TR3;   Guess that will give me a few more weeks..... 
:)  October is great time of year in the SE and will definitely be much 
better weather wise.

Didn't realize it until now but the driver's side door has the 'tin can' 
effect.  The panel is pushed in slightly.  I can push it out but it bounces 
right back.  Any ideas on how to fix it?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/id7.html

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tfansher at comcast.net>
To: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 12:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] VTR 2010


> October 17th 2010B B B B  Jekyll Island, Georgia. A really beautiful 
> setting.
>
> It will be an awesome time and venue.
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2009 11:34:49 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
> Subject: [TR] VTR 2010
>
> TR List:
>
> Has the location for the National Convention been determined for 2010?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe A
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tfansher at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Aug  6 18:10:42 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 20:10:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder Problem
References: <154360C49346475EB1B94C7592ECA593@userb38463fba5>
	<BAY110-W29271A65E88483D6FC3D0EE50A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5D7A7285089440D7B9004D1A50B062FA@userb38463fba5>

How would a bench bleeding kit help this problem? He can't get fluid to flow.
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: tom white
  To: jerryvv at roadrunner.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:20 AM
  Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder Problem


  TRF used to sell a bench bleeding kit.  I bought one in the mid eighties and
have used it ever since.

  Best regards, Tom





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18:23:00

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Aug  6 18:40:30 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 19:40:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl><860944.31451.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><B04AA445F02B4A78B04CEA0755B25065@artvac412870f0><166384.99634.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<971FCEF750184FA7ADDA987BCE87364D@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <F74B1DEBD67849DBBF8808516E7848FF@yourpd3mh0abgs>

and now on to "The Great Eastern"!
Best,
Ray


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; "Wayne Lee" 
<wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide


>> of England had and still have the greatest craftsman. the north was where 
>> the
>> worlds industrial revolution started. the first steam engine/train ran 
>> from
>> Liverpool to Manchester. Stevenson's Rocket.
>
>
> Sorry, Frank, I have to correct your steam locomotive history, since I am 
> a steam geek as well as a TR geek.  It si generally recognized that 
> Richard Trevithick built the first successful steam locomotive, which ran 
> on a tramway at the ironworks in Merthyr Tydfil in 1804.  George 
> Stephenson's first locomotive was the "Blucher", which he built in 1814. 
> His first railway was actually the Stockton and Darlington Railway, which 
> opened in 1825.  The L&M followed in 1830.  The Rocket was built around 
> the same time and was important because it was the first "modern" 
> locomotive, incoporating a fire-tube boiler, induced draft furnace using a 
> blast pipe to provide the draft, and driving cylinders that were at about 
> a 40 degree angle to horizontal, rather than vertical like all its 
> predecessors.  The Rocket was built for the Rainhill Trials, which was a 
> competiton to select the most efficient loco for the new L&M railway.  The 
> Rocket won and pretty much all successful locos built thereafter 
> incorporated its features.
>
> George Stephenson became the first President of the Institution of 
> Mechanical Engineers (of which I am a proud Member), founded in 1847.  His 
> son, Robert, was also president of the same institution.  Geo. Stephenson 
> also defined the standard track gauge as 4ft 8 1/2 inches, which is still 
> the standard in most parts of the world today.
>
> Don't get me started on Isambard Kingdom Brunel, who was the greatest 
> engineer of the Victorian age, in my opinion...
>
> Mike
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr4boy at surewest.net  Thu Aug  6 20:47:29 2009
From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 19:47:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-4 fan hub extension...
Message-ID: <37CD70879D194124926B0BF357CCE611@Kitchen>

Listers,

 

I removed the fan hub extension on my '64 TR-4 (CT38104L) to install an
electric fan.  It came out as a single piece, but my manual shows it as two
pieces; a "snout" and an end piece that has a keyway machined in it. Does
any one know if they made both one and two piece fan hub extensions? Or are
they all two pieces and mine just needs to be separated?  If the latter, any
recommendations for separating them?

 

Thanks (again) for the collective wisdom.

Greg

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug  6 21:34:17 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 20:34:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR-4 fan hub extension...
In-Reply-To: <37CD70879D194124926B0BF357CCE611@Kitchen>
Message-ID: <20090807033418688.XPGK18482@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> I removed the fan hub extension on my '64 TR-4 (CT38104L) to install an
> electric fan.  It came out as a single piece, but my manual shows it as
> two
> pieces; a "snout" and an end piece that has a keyway machined in it. Does
> any one know if they made both one and two piece fan hub extensions? Or
> are
> they all two pieces and mine just needs to be separated?  If the latter,
> any
> recommendations for separating them?

They are all two pieces.  But the piece with the keyway is also the only
thing that holds the pulley halves, so if you still have the belt pulley
attached to the engine, you have already separated the two pieces.

Randall

From essixga at aol.com  Thu Aug  6 22:21:15 2009
From: essixga at aol.com (JOSEPH SIMCOE)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 23:21:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Books and Manuals for Sale
Message-ID: <440244CB-6E8F-49CF-B91B-87CD1EDB8D73@aol.com>

Just a reminder . . . I have listed a few books and and manuals on  
Ebay.  These are my personal items that I am selling in preparation  
for a move.  Sorry to part with them, but alas my British car days are  
behind me.

Go to Ebay, and do an advanced search for items being sold by gbsimcoe

These are all in Very Very good condition, and are my personal items  
(not resale stuff)

I know many are traveling etc . . but if you are interested please  
take a look, the auctions end in a couple of days

Joe Simcoe

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu Aug  6 22:36:09 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2009 23:36:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Daily Telegraph - TR4 Buyers guide
References: <586764.53582.qm@web80808.mail.mud.yahoo.com><BAY123-W210FEE4235FDA561B0AD8FE10D0@phx.gbl><860944.31451.qm@web111615.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><B04AA445F02B4A78B04CEA0755B25065@artvac412870f0><166384.99634.qm@web111613.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<971FCEF750184FA7ADDA987BCE87364D@trigeni.com>
	<F74B1DEBD67849DBBF8808516E7848FF@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <9B53F5610D0448728ADE9ABC1318F631@trigeni.com>

> and now on to "The Great Eastern"!
> Best,
> Ray
> 
Too far off topic, I would hazard a guess!

Mike

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Fri Aug  7 06:20:53 2009
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 08:20:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] John Macartney Visit
Message-ID: <bc9.5282753e.37ad7625@aol.com>

John will be visiting the Tulsa area this weekend from Aug 8-10.  We  will 
be meeting him at the OK welcome station on I-40 coming from Arkansas on  
Saturday, Aug 8 at ~2 pm and escorting him to town.  For more information  
give me a call or e-mail me.
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs
Member at Large
918-625-6798
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
`
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From tfansher at comcast.net  Fri Aug  7 07:01:07 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 09:01:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd:  VTR 2010
References: <1271797538.9675891249577548839.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <35B2EA4FE2F3417180F8343C4702EADF@DCS78M81>

The autocross will be held at the Jekyll Island Airport. They close it for 
two days - one for setup and one for the running. It's a really nice venue 
for the autocross guys and the North Carolina Club promises an great lay 
out.
Tom
Central Florida VTR
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: <tfansher at comcast.net>
Cc: "Triumphs list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Fwd: VTR 2010


>
>
> Oh!  One week after the Lotus Owners Gathering in Gettysburg PA.
>
> I can hear a domestic dispute starting. I don't have room in the trailer 
> for both cars, and I REALLY want the Seven at the LOG. I would not mind 
> bringing the Seven to the VTR and running the autocross as "other 
> British".
>
> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul MinnGesota USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
> 1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  7 09:26:26 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 15:26:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question
In-Reply-To: <D92E603E-808A-49C1-B7CC-987A5628ADA8@comcast.net>
References: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC> 
	<D92E603E-808A-49C1-B7CC-987A5628ADA8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W354AA2BC32A337A299BE98E50B0@phx.gbl>

This method works but as the commentator says it makes the steel harder.  What
he doesn't say is that it also makes the steel more brittle.  Since the oil
can effect is usually at the door handle I would be concerned that the newly
hardened steel might experience cracking after extended use of the door
handle.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug  7 09:39:43 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 15:39:43 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Master Cylinder Problem
In-Reply-To: <5D7A7285089440D7B9004D1A50B062FA@userb38463fba5>
References: <154360C49346475EB1B94C7592ECA593@userb38463fba5>
	<BAY110-W29271A65E88483D6FC3D0EE50A0@phx.gbl>
	<5D7A7285089440D7B9004D1A50B062FA@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W42221D762909149CF26FB0E50B0@phx.gbl>

The bench bleeding kit creates a sealed system for the fliuf to flow through.
The sealing of the flow channel will eliminate large pockets of air that
compress when the cylinder is actuated.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Express your personality in color! Preview and select themes for Hotmail..
http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/LearnMore/personalize.aspx?ocid=PID23391::
T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HYGN_express:082009

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Fri Aug  7 09:51:47 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 10:51:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question
References: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC>
	<D92E603E-808A-49C1-B7CC-987A5628ADA8@comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W354AA2BC32A337A299BE98E50B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AAC4A88733B944AEBFB4CDD5A12410A7@KARL>

Annealing or normalizing after shrinking helps to return the steel to its 
original condition, though he didn't mention that.  Remember too that 
stamped panels are already work-hardened a bit unless they were normalized 
after stamping, which AFAIK is not and was not commonly done.  Some 
additional hardness can be a good thing - adding strength and resistance to 
dings, etc., though as you point out, too much can be cause problems.


> This method works but as the commentator says it makes the steel harder. 
> What
> he doesn't say is that it also makes the steel more brittle.  Since the 
> oil
> can effect is usually at the door handle I would be concerned that the 
> newly
> hardened steel might experience cracking after extended use of the door
> handle.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  7 10:25:20 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 09:25:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock and Window Seal Removal
In-Reply-To: <845126.28698.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <845126.28698.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908070925s6a26ef3am6e2b81fd5d9bbfc7@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Aug 6, 2009 at 7:09 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

> ...The window seal (the squeegee against the glass). What hold those in and
> how do you get them out?


Someday you will be asking 'How to you put them back in?'.

Moss catalogs used to have a pic of a tool you can make from an old hacksaw
blade to fit those clips.  I think they now sell the tool so perhaps they
have discontinued the instructions but this is the bit:

http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/door%20seal.JPG

Geo

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Aug  7 10:44:03 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:44:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W354AA2BC32A337A299BE98E50B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2030671197.10060011249663443511.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> it makes the steel harder. 
> it also makes the steel more brittle.  

Sam ting.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug  7 11:39:31 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 12:39:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock and Window Seal Removal
References: <845126.28698.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<7bb181af0908070925s6a26ef3am6e2b81fd5d9bbfc7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <738720F8741C4910B39EEF5039F39514@ranteer.local>

you can also make the tool from a pc slot cover

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
To: "William Brewer" <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Cc: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Door Lock and Window Seal Removal


> On Thu, Aug 6, 2009 at 7:09 AM, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> 
> wrote:
>
>> ...The window seal (the squeegee against the glass). What hold those in 
>> and
>> how do you get them out?
>
>
> Someday you will be asking 'How to you put them back in?'.
>
> Moss catalogs used to have a pic of a tool you can make from an old 
> hacksaw
> blade to fit those clips.  I think they now sell the tool so perhaps they
> have discontinued the instructions but this is the bit:
>
> http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/door%20seal.JPG
>
> Geo

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Aug  7 12:55:59 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 12:55:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] Roll-Up Car Cover?
Message-ID: <5E2A807BCF364060BE2E1C88689E0F92@bboffice>

Has anyone used this type of cover, it looks like it does all the
top-of-the-line things for about $50.00?   
 
Here is the link to the ad on eBay: 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180360243005&v
iewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123
 
 
NFI of course...
 
Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Aug  7 13:52:54 2009
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 15:52:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Solvent Warning
Message-ID: <004401ca1798$a880c680$6401a8c0@STATION6>

I normally wouldn't blast the list with this type of information, but this one
could very well be worth reading.
Alex Manzo

59 TR3A

72 TR6

A severe warning ..Please read this article

http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  7 16:06:04 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 15:06:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>

I have now dropped the oil pan and removed the head and pulled the noisy
piston and cylinder. The sleeve pushed up when I pushed up the piston and
bent the gasket, so I will fit a new gasket.

I don't see anything. The rod cap was torqued properly with bearings in
place, the valves all look fine. Push rods look straight and true. No
scarring or marking of any kind in the cylinder. No marks on the piston
head. So at least  I did no apparent damage.

So what could the banging have been? To review, I thought the carbs were
noisy from the get-go, but convinced myself that it was the sound of Webers,
new to me. Then when fiddling around and trying to learn about these new
carbs, I removed the plug wire to #2 cylinder and the noise disappeared. So,
no combustion no noise. I'm quite sure the lash was set correctly. So
combustion is sending piston down more violently than non-combustion,
hitting something? I don't get it. Oil pan baffle is also unmarked.

I have reseated the sleeve and cylinder and the sleeve tops are proud ot the
block surface by the prescribed amount.

Any ideas? I hate to put it back together without "doing" anything, but
sometimes that works.

Many thanks, as always

John Howard

On Tue, Aug 4, 2009 at 2:30 PM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Well, I got compression readings today: #1 - 135. #2 - 130, #3 - 130, #4 -
> 135. So that indicates that all is well in the top end, right? And the next
> step is to drop the oil pan and see what might be amiss down there?
>
> Beginning to wish I hadn't sold the nice running and good looking 4.  Sigh.
>
> Again, thanks for your help
>
> John Howard

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Aug  7 16:23:41 2009
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 18:23:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Solvent Warning
References: <004401ca1798$a880c680$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<004401ca17a1$d52b5200$7f81f600$@edu>
Message-ID: <005e01ca17ad$c6c65c30$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hi Kevin,
That was not me. Just something I came across and wanted to share. Thanks 
for the concern though.
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin McNelis" <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: "'Alex'" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>; "'Sixpack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>; 
"'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 4:58 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Solvent Warning


> First, Alex, I'm glad you are Ok.
>
> Phosgene was one of the gasses used in World War I.  It can also be 
> produced
> by heating some of the "Freon" gasses-- so BE CAREFUL!
>
> A good respirator can go a long way (no, not a "dust mask", a RESPIRATOR).
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Alex
> Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 1:53 PM
> To: Sixpack; Triumph List
> Subject: [6pack] Solvent Warning
>
> I normally wouldn't blast the list with this type of information, but this
> one
> could very well be worth reading.
> Alex Manzo
>
> 59 TR3A
>
> 72 TR6
>
> A severe warning ..Please read this article
>
> http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  7 16:39:49 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 15:39:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>
	<cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <13D4E57E30D94881B0B5CF9F960206F1@jdnet.deere.com>

> I don't see anything. The rod cap was torqued properly with bearings in
> place, the valves all look fine. Push rods look straight and true. No
> scarring or marking of any kind in the cylinder. No marks on the piston
> head.

I think this was mentioned before ... did you check first for an exhaust
leak at #2?  That can sometimes produce a "bang bang bang" each time the
cylinder fires.

-- Randall 

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Fri Aug  7 17:09:01 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:09:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <13D4E57E30D94881B0B5CF9F960206F1@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>
	<cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
	<13D4E57E30D94881B0B5CF9F960206F1@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10908071609x1081bf35vf2d84c33c265e8f9@mail.gmail.com>

No I haven't done that and don't know how. I presume the engine has to be
buttoned up for such a test. How would I do it?
John

On Fri, Aug 7, 2009 at 3:39 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I don't see anything. The rod cap was torqued properly with bearings in
> > place, the valves all look fine. Push rods look straight and true. No
> > scarring or marking of any kind in the cylinder. No marks on the piston
> > head.
>
> I think this was mentioned before ... did you check first for an exhaust
> leak at #2?  That can sometimes produce a "bang bang bang" each time the
> cylinder fires.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug  7 17:15:49 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:15:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Solvent Warning
In-Reply-To: <005e01ca17ad$c6c65c30$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <004401ca1798$a880c680$6401a8c0@STATION6><004401ca17a1$d52b5200$7f81f600$@edu>
	<005e01ca17ad$c6c65c30$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <06832C21BD9B4C8A8E3A0AF05BDAA129@jdnet.deere.com>

> > It can also be
> > produced
> > by heating some of the "Freon" gasses-- so BE CAREFUL!

Requires the presence of copper, though.

Should we also talk about not mixing Clorox with brake fluid?

-- Randall 

From dlylis at gmail.com  Fri Aug  7 17:27:55 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 19:27:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <13D4E57E30D94881B0B5CF9F960206F1@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>
	<cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
	<13D4E57E30D94881B0B5CF9F960206F1@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908071627g301054b1xb456d70d21039343@mail.gmail.com>

JOhn,
I had a similar situation with my TR3A with a TR4 motor.  I gave her a fresh
drink of oil and started her up and a new knocking noise joined the
cacophony of TR motor noises.  Pulling a plug wire gave the same results as
you.  I was a little bent on rebuilding the motor anyway, so I started
tearing her down.  A visitor to my garage pronounced piston slap in cylinder
#3 but I quickly learned that his ego exceeded his knowledge.  After I
stepped up to 89mm I gave the cylinders to a friend who put them in his
car!  I never found the source of the noise to my satisfaction.  I no longer
care as the car runs fine with no knock and my friend is happy as a clam not
having to buy new cylinders.  BTW I just gave one of the pistons to another
friend
who was having issues with his race car and just wanted to finish the
season.
You may never know!
David

On Fri, Aug 7, 2009 at 6:39 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I don't see anything. The rod cap was torqued properly with bearings in
> > place, the valves all look fine. Push rods look straight and true. No
> > scarring or marking of any kind in the cylinder. No marks on the piston
> > head.
>
> I think this was mentioned before ... did you check first for an exhaust
> leak at #2?  That can sometimes produce a "bang bang bang" each time the
> cylinder fires.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dlylis at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimbpps at cox.net  Fri Aug  7 17:51:22 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (jimbpps at cox.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 19:51:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] My TR Tour Day 2
Message-ID: <20090807195122.NLZBX.8001.imail@fed1rmwml39>

Lone Pine to Susanville:

I have to apologize for the delay for Day 2 and 3. They of course occurred in the correct chronological order, but unfortunately, my internet access was not quite working just right and/or the laptop had issues, take your pick as both happened at different times. But I think I know the 'work arounds' now so hopefully I will be a little more on-time!

We keft Lone Pine at around 8:00 AM, it was a beautiful day about 70 degrees, with great sun, a few clouds and Mt. McKinley in sharp relief against the blue sky. 

As we drove north on 395 we would occasionally see hot rods and custom cars. Some were being towed and some were, like our cars, being driven. When we got to Reno we passed a casino with a very large parking lot absolutely chock full of street rods, exotic custom cars, numerous pop-up tents, etc. Later after we stopped at a rest stop, John, told me that gatering must have been the 'Hot August Nights' car show! John, said if he had been thinking when he made the reservations he would have set it up so we could have stayed in Reno and gone to the car show! He was also sure that he could 'double the clubs money' if we would have stopped in Reno!! As we drove north of Reno we continued to see more exotic custom cars on their way south, probably on their way to 'Hot August Nights' too.

North of Lone Pine 395 climbs to some 8100 feet, it was chilly enough that at one our stops I had to move a piece of my luggage in the passengers side so that I could roll up the passengers window as I was too cold to be comfortable. Later that afternoon I turned on the heater as it was just plain cold!

In Susanville we arrived to a 'sold-out' motel, It was full of fire fighters! The very harried waitress said that there were over 100 fire fighters at that motel/restaurant complex alone. There were supposedly a large bunch of forrest fires actively burning in the area.

Tomorrow, on to Redmond with a stop at Crater Lake!

Jim

From rengrave at verizon.net  Fri Aug  7 19:03:47 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Fri, 07 Aug 2009 21:03:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Seat Belts for TR6
Message-ID: <BC86DEA858D147809BBF4EE602336594@RossFamily>

Hi everyone,

I'm back on this list after about 10 years.
Getting my 73 TR6 back on the road as soon as I get the engine together.

I need new seat belts, my original retractable seat belt don't work anymore.
I found a pair on Ebay Motors at a good price $79.99 with free shipping:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SEAT-BELT-triumph-TR6-69-76-75-74-73-72-71-70-
1969-1976_W0QQitemZ230352820118QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Acce
ssories?hash=item35a2191796&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_2070wt_1165

I want to stay with a retractable 3-point type of belt.
I've seen others at more than twice this price, but I don't know what makes
them more expensive.
I was going to order them to see how they look/fit.

Has anyone used these?


Wayne
Westport, MA
1973 TR6 (Mallard / New Tan)

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Fri Aug  7 22:38:28 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 23:38:28 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Seat Belts for TR6
Message-ID: <26090284.1249706308356.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Wayne, 

Those look like the SECURON belts like I put in my 73 TR6. I like them just fine but if I remember, the part number listed for the TR6 was substituted for a set that better fit our cars. I think the listed numbers reciever stalk was way to long.

In addition, that ad says belt, not belts. Could that explain why they are half the price I paid?
"Location  : Driver or Passenger Side"

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN

-----Original Message-----
>From: Wayne <rengrave at verizon.net>
>Sent: Aug 7, 2009 8:03 PM
>To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] Seat Belts for TR6
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>I'm back on this list after about 10 years.
>Getting my 73 TR6 back on the road as soon as I get the engine together.
>
>I need new seat belts, my original retractable seat belt don't work anymore.
>I found a pair on Ebay Motors at a good price $79.99 with free shipping:
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SEAT-BELT-triumph-TR6-69-76-75-74-73-72-71-70-
>1969-1976_W0QQitemZ230352820118QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Acce
>ssories?hash=item35a2191796&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_2070wt_1165
>
>I want to stay with a retractable 3-point type of belt.
>I've seen others at more than twice this price, but I don't know what makes
>them more expensive.
>I was going to order them to see how they look/fit.
>
>Has anyone used these?
>
>
>Wayne
>Westport, MA
>1973 TR6 (Mallard / New Tan)

From jimbpps at cox.net  Fri Aug  7 23:01:54 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (jimbpps at cox.net)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 1:01:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] ERROR CORRECTION!!
Message-ID: <20090808010154.T9JFM.63247.imail@fed1rmwml46>

         BULLETIN!  BULLETIN!   BULLETIN!

Thanks to a sharp eyed and scholarly reader, I must admit to a gross error an earlier posting!

It turns out much to my chagrin that Mt. McKinley is in Alaska not California! Of course it was Mt. Whitney that I was seeing in Lone Pine not McKinley!!

Thanks for your understanding, I must have been very tired...

Jim

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sat Aug  8 04:33:23 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 10:33:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] ERROR CORRECTION!!
Message-ID: <mailman.16.1249727688.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

As we all know now, from Alaska you can see great distances even to foreign countries. I simply thought that the view went the other way as well.  Thanks for the correction. 
David
------Original Message------
From: jimbpps at cox.net
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: DCTRA
To: TR List
Subject: [TR] ERROR CORRECTION!!
Sent: Aug 7, 2009 9:01 PM

         BULLETIN!  BULLETIN!   BULLETIN!

Thanks to a sharp eyed and scholarly reader, I must admit to a gross error an earlier posting!

It turns out much to my chagrin that Mt. McKinley is in Alaska not California! Of course it was Mt. Whitney that I was seeing in Lone Pine not McKinley!!

Thanks for your understanding, I must have been very tired...

Jim
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

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Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Aug  8 07:44:45 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 13:44:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1794011710.1135211249739085497.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>I don't see anything. The rod cap was torqued properly with bearings in
>place, the valves all look fine. Push rods look straight and true. No
>scarring or marking of any kind in the cylinder. No marks on the piston
>head. So at least B I did no apparent damage.

I think someone mentioned a possible culprit being the wrist pin.B  How loose
would that have to be to show up on casual inspection, yet making a banging
sound when the engine is running?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sat Aug  8 07:50:03 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 13:50:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] ERROR CORRECTION!!
In-Reply-To: <20090808010154.T9JFM.63247.imail@fed1rmwml46>
Message-ID: <1999963758.1136771249739403495.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Thanks to a sharp eyed and scholarly reader, I must admit to a gross error an
earlier posting!

>It turns out much to my chagrin that Mt. McKinley is in Alaska not
California! Of course it was Mt. Whitney that I was seeing in Lone Pine not
McKinley!!

Perspective, perspective.B  It matters which mountain if one is lost, but not
one whit if one is falling off it.



Heh heh.B  A little zen to start the day, eh?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug  8 09:19:12 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 15:19:12 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>
	<cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W4525ED39DE8BAC434B72DCE5080@phx.gbl>

You say the rod bearing was in place and torqued properly.  To be certain the
bearing is OK you need to measure the clearances with a micrometer.  Measure
the rod journal and note the diameter.  Then place the rod bearing in the rod
cap and torque the cap while the rod is off of the crank.  Then measure th
inside diameter of the bearing.  Subtract the journal diameter fromt the
bearing diameter to get the amount of clearance.  Compare your answer to book
specs.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_BR_syn
c:082009

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Sat Aug  8 10:02:51 2009
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 09:02:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W4525ED39DE8BAC434B72DCE5080@phx.gbl>
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>
	<cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY110-W4525ED39DE8BAC434B72DCE5080@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10908080902j334b77c5p59e8adf543de933a@mail.gmail.com>

Excellent idea, Tom. I'll do that and report back.
John

On Sat, Aug 8, 2009 at 8:19 AM, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:

>  You say the rod bearing was in place and torqued properly.  To be certain
> the bearing is OK you need to measure the clearances with a micrometer.
> Measure the rod journal and note the diameter.  Then place the rod bearing
> in the rod cap and torque the cap while the rod is off of the crank.  Then
> measure th inside diameter of the bearing.  Subtract the journal diameter
> fromt the bearing diameter to get the amount of clearance.  Compare your
> answer to book specs.
>
> Best regards, Tom
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. Check it
out.<http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_B
R_sync:082009>

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Aug  8 10:27:11 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 12:27:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question - followup
In-Reply-To: <8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC>
References: <1138799100.9886351249574794373.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<8D8DF9D507164A5DB9319B57E65A40B8@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <0ACDC8A24924466C80D85BA8B884E084@CarlPC>

As I indicated in an earlier message, I just brought home the tub and all of 
the body parts from the powder coater.  I do not recall the oil can effect 
prior to going into the oven - but it may have been there.   I am wondering 
if some prior weakness + oven = oil can.  Although most have said that 
heating/cooling = shrinkage - but that could be 'sudden' cooling as opposed 
to gradual as occurred.

I followed Randall's suggestion and did a metal shrinking search and found a 
stainless steel disc for a hand-held grinder that supposedly creates enough 
heat through friction to allow for the cooling (by water or blown air) and 
shrinkage.  Since I don't want to damage the finish to the extent that the 
torch would, I may spring for the $30+ and see if it works. 
http://www.daggertools.com/3.html?m5:cat=%2FMetal%20Shrinking%20Disc

There were other articles about using a regular sanding disc (no grit or 
800+ grit) to accomplish the same effect.  Not sure if the outcome would be 
the same.  I wish I had a scrap panel to play with before ordering the 
other.

Regardless, I think I will investigate bracing as a reinforcement.  I can 
push it out by hand and other than a little dimpling at the handle hole, it 
appears to be in alignment.

If the 'oil can effect' was caused by the oven/heating, it is the only sign 
of warpage from the powder coating process.   Hood/trunk/fenders/hardtop - 
all just need a bit of icing/glazing work to smooth out the finish before 
primer and the color/clearcoat.   The front nose needs a bit more work - 
quite a few dips and dings around and above the grill opening.  Also, the 
spare cover is pretty bunged up.

I did drop about a 10" piece of wood on one fender and will have to fix that 
'ouch' - about 2" dent..  (stronger words spoken at the time)
NOTE: it is the passenger door - not the driver's door (not that it 
matters) - you can see it in the last picture on "mysite"/powder coating.

Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010 at Jekyll Island, GA.
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <tfansher at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 6:09 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 Door work question


>I didn't need an excuse for more time.  I had set July 1 as my completion 
>date in time for the TR3;   Guess that will give me a few more weeks..... 
>:)  October is great time of year in the SE and will definitely be much 
>better weather wise.
>
> Didn't realize it until now but the passenger side door has the 'tin can' 
> effect.  The panel is pushed in slightly.  I can push it out but it 
> bounces right back.  Any ideas on how to fix it?
>
snip

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Sat Aug  8 10:32:39 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 12:32:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
Message-ID: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>

Howdy all,

Does anyone have experience with Good Parts Triple ZS setup? 

Thanks,

Joe

72 TR6

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat Aug  8 10:35:59 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 11:35:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com><cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com><BAY110-W4525ED39DE8BAC434B72DCE5080@phx.gbl>
	<cd09b7f10908080902j334b77c5p59e8adf543de933a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01C288EAA76B4D92A56B0CDD929B8315@trigeni.com>

Or you could use plastigage, which only requires a 0-1" micrometer to 
measure the clearance:

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?ArticleID=1213

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7 at gmail.com>
To: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2


> Excellent idea, Tom. I'll do that and report back.
> John
>
> On Sat, Aug 8, 2009 at 8:19 AM, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>  You say the rod bearing was in place and torqued properly.  To be 
>> certain
>> the bearing is OK you need to measure the clearances with a micrometer.
>> Measure the rod journal and note the diameter.  Then place the rod 
>> bearing
>> in the rod cap and torque the cap while the rod is off of the crank. 
>> Then
>> measure th inside diameter of the bearing.  Subtract the journal diameter
>> fromt the bearing diameter to get the amount of clearance.  Compare your
>> answer to book specs.
>>
>> Best regards, Tom

From rengrave at verizon.net  Sat Aug  8 10:36:04 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 12:36:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Seat Belts for TR6
In-Reply-To: <26090284.1249706308356.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <26090284.1249706308356.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <B403E2E7320C46549D698FFE0AA20BD1@RossFamily>

Thanks for reponding Greg,

I called to make sure the 79.99 price was for a pair (2 seats) of belts, and 
it is.
So I ordered them, and I will see if the reciever end is to long and if they 
fit my car.
I should be getting them in a week.

Wayne
Westport, MA
1973 TR6 (Mallard / New Tan)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Gelhar" <ggelhar at earthlink.net>
To: "Wayne" <rengrave at verizon.net>; <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Seat Belts for TR6


> Wayne,
>
> Those look like the SECURON belts like I put in my 73 TR6. I like them 
> just fine but if I remember, the part number listed for the TR6 was 
> substituted for a set that better fit our cars. I think the listed numbers 
> reciever stalk was way to long.
>
> In addition, that ad says belt, not belts. Could that explain why they are 
> half the price I paid?
> "Location  : Driver or Passenger Side"
>
> Greg Gelhar
> 1973 TR6
> 1980 TR8
> Osseo, MN
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Wayne <rengrave at verizon.net>
>>Sent: Aug 7, 2009 8:03 PM
>>To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
>>Subject: [TR] Seat Belts for TR6
>>
>>Hi everyone,
>>
>>I'm back on this list after about 10 years.
>>Getting my 73 TR6 back on the road as soon as I get the engine together.
>>
>>I need new seat belts, my original retractable seat belt don't work 
>>anymore.
>>I found a pair on Ebay Motors at a good price $79.99 with free shipping:
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SEAT-BELT-triumph-TR6-69-76-75-74-73-72-71-70-
>>1969-1976_W0QQitemZ230352820118QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Acce
>>ssories?hash=item35a2191796&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245#ht_2070wt_1165
>>
>>I want to stay with a retractable 3-point type of belt.
>>I've seen others at more than twice this price, but I don't know what 
>>makes
>>them more expensive.
>>I was going to order them to see how they look/fit.
>>
>>Has anyone used these?
>>
>>
>>Wayne
>>Westport, MA
>>1973 TR6 (Mallard / New Tan)

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sat Aug  8 10:40:07 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 11:40:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10908080902j334b77c5p59e8adf543de933a@mail.gmail.co
  m>
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com>
	<cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY110-W4525ED39DE8BAC434B72DCE5080@phx.gbl>
	<cd09b7f10908080902j334b77c5p59e8adf543de933a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090808164035.06CF818DD35@autox.team.net>

Of course, you can do the same with the wrist pin...

- Tony

At 11:02 AM 8/8/2009, Lee&John Howard wrote:
>Excellent idea, Tom. I'll do that and report back.
>John
>
>On Sat, Aug 8, 2009 at 8:19 AM, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >  You say the rod bearing was in place and torqued properly.  To be certain
> > the bearing is OK you need to measure the clearances with a micrometer.
> > Measure the rod journal and note the diameter.  Then place the rod bearing
> > in the rod cap and torque the cap while the rod is off of the crank.  Then
> > measure th inside diameter of the bearing.  Subtract the journal diameter
> > fromt the bearing diameter to get the amount of clearance.  Compare your
> > answer to book specs.
> >
> > Best regards, Tom

From gtwincams at gmail.com  Sat Aug  8 11:14:00 2009
From: gtwincams at gmail.com (gtwincams at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 17:14:00 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2
In-Reply-To: <01C288EAA76B4D92A56B0CDD929B8315@trigeni.com>
References: <cd09b7f10908041430u6e113cbdqeb6064db540eebec@mail.gmail.com><cd09b7f10908071506j7cade450uf23b4f88ef943d36@mail.gmail.com><BAY110-W4525ED39DE8BAC434B72DCE5080@phx.gbl><cd09b7f10908080902j334b77c5p59e8adf543de933a@mail.gmail.com><01C288EAA76B4D92A56B0CDD929B8315@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.17.1249751661.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

Plastigage is what is typically used to check bearing shell clearances and requires no measuring device; the package includes printed bars that are compared to the squashed platigage. Comes in two size ranges - red and green to denote.
I've built about ten engines now  and always use Plastigage to check machine shops work after crank grinding or polishing. A mic can be used to check wrist pins and a bore guage to check the wrist pin bushing, but the machine shop can do this well, as they should always do when fitting new bushings.
Cheers,
Greg Tatarian
Lotus Elan S4
TR6
Alfa GTV
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr at notwires.com>

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 11:35:59 
To: Lee&John Howard<leejohn7 at gmail.com>; tom white<tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2


Or you could use plastigage, which only requires a 0-1" micrometer to 
measure the clearance:

http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showarticle.asp?ArticleID=1213

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lee&John Howard" <leejohn7 at gmail.com>
To: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 11:02 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4/Webers - that banging noise- #2


> Excellent idea, Tom. I'll do that and report back.
> John
>
> On Sat, Aug 8, 2009 at 8:19 AM, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>>  You say the rod bearing was in place and torqued properly.  To be 
>> certain
>> the bearing is OK you need to measure the clearances with a micrometer.
>> Measure the rod journal and note the diameter.  Then place the rod 
>> bearing
>> in the rod cap and torque the cap while the rod is off of the crank. 
>> Then
>> measure th inside diameter of the bearing.  Subtract the journal diameter
>> fromt the bearing diameter to get the amount of clearance.  Compare your
>> answer to book specs.
>>
>> Best regards, Tom
_______________________________________________

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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Aug  8 14:19:09 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 16:19:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
In-Reply-To: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>
References: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <0C6A318D1E8C4BE1ABD5BB393C56DD3E@BOBSNEWPC>

Joe,
There's lots of guys over in the 6 Pack Forum www.6-Pack.org who have that
set up. Drop in, ask the question and you'll get lots of responses. What
you'll find is a love/hate relationship ;-)


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 12:33 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup

Howdy all,

Does anyone have experience with Good Parts Triple ZS setup? 

Thanks,

Joe

72 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Sat Aug  8 14:24:59 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 13:24:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 door work question
Message-ID: <749904.78199.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

just some thoughts to further confuse.LOL

I'm wondering about the "dimple"
near the door handle.  some times on the outer edge of a panel where there's a
curve...........a dent there will cause the oil can effect to happen on
metal on beside the dimple.  It's like the dent holds the oil can in stress. 
maybe removing that "dimple" by hammer from inside will release the larger
area............helping to remove the "oil can".  I'm not sure how large the
oil can is...............

I had the same thing on my tr-3 on the "saddle" in
front of the boot lid area.  That "oil can dent" was about the size of a small
dinner plate.  I used an old well worn grinding wheel to build heat and it did
bring the metal out and solid although not to the original shape.  It was
close enough and solid and i"ll finish off with a skim of bondo.  

gary n.

From andygraybeal at earthlink.net  Sat Aug  8 15:39:39 2009
From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 14:39:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] ERROR
Message-ID: <A2AF8E7D-2701-4E8D-9F69-F7D87297F22E@earthlink.net>

The difference is that from Mt. McKinley you can see Russia!




Andy Graybeal
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Index.php
andy.graybeal at gmail.com
650.968.6877

o?<

From spitlist at cox.net  Sat Aug  8 16:06:20 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 15:06:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] ERROR
In-Reply-To: <A2AF8E7D-2701-4E8D-9F69-F7D87297F22E@earthlink.net>
References: <A2AF8E7D-2701-4E8D-9F69-F7D87297F22E@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <FCAF3157537C42729F276D0A7065FD99@joepentiumnew>

And Sara Palin's home.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andy Graybeal
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 2:40 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] ERROR

The difference is that from Mt. McKinley you can see Russia!




Andy Graybeal
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Index.php
andy.graybeal at gmail.com
650.968.6877

o?<
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Aug  8 19:23:30 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 18:23:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pre-Historics
Message-ID: <4A7E2512.6030907@gmail.com>

Triumph wise very disappointing.

As the norm, no TRs entered but this time nary a Morgan, Peerless nor 
Peyote in sight.  Peyote is always there.

I had heard that a Group from the Triumph Travelers were going to show 
up to watch.  I had the only TR in the parking lot (I parked near the 
paddock entrance) when I arrived this morning and the only TR in the 
parking lot when I left.

TeriAnn

The only TR at the pre-historics?

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sat Aug  8 19:42:53 2009
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 21:42:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] This Saturday
Message-ID: <d2b.5426f6a8.37af839d@aol.com>

Had a handoff from BMCA at the OK welcome station at ~230pm.   They  had a 
great turnout (didn't count but a least 6 cars)  GCT had 3  cars and 5 
members.  Me in the '6, John and Tom in John's 6 and Janice and  Al in their TR7. 
 We escorted John and Uncle Jack to the Homewood  suites.  John and I had a 
delightful meat at the Fox and Hound (and a few  cold ones, too!!!!)  Had a 
great time and let John go back to his room for  some R&R.  Meet back at 
the hotel around 815 for a drive around Tulsa  and then back to the hotel for 
a media opp @ 130.
 
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs
Member at Large
918-455-8993
918-625-6798 Cell
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Aug  8 20:43:02 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 20:43:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] This Saturday
In-Reply-To: <d2b.5426f6a8.37af839d@aol.com>
References: <d2b.5426f6a8.37af839d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A7E37B6.8060009@bradakis.com>

Sounds like a good time.  Last time I checked the route, it looked as
if every possible effort was made to avoid coming within 500 miles
of Salt Lake City.  Not surprising, I wasn't able to round up any
local interest back in the early planning stages.

On a side note, if you get some pictures you'd like to share, remember
you can't send them through the email lists, but you can go to
http://www.team.net/forums and post them in the Triumph section
there.

And for a note on the other side, thanks to those who recently sent in
contributions for Team.Net maintenance.  I, as well as thousands of
subscribers around the globe do appreciate it.

mjb.

From tom628 at verizon.net  Sat Aug  8 21:25:40 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 23:25:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
References: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <567EF3CD954E49D4BB596D6D2B11D50C@Toms>

Joe: I have the GP triple ZS set-up and like it very much. A 76, with Isky 
street cam, some (?) head shaving , etc.  The triples made an immediarely 
noticeable increase in midrange power and allowed the engine to make better 
use of the cam at high RPM.  Linkage is a bear , and only reliably achieved 
full throttle by going to the Ratco likage, which is much better and 
smoother than stock anyway, and eliminates all the slop in the throttle 
action.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Burlein" <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 12:32 PM
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup


> Howdy all,
>
> Does anyone have experience with Good Parts Triple ZS setup?
> Thanks,
>
> Joe
>
> 72 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Sat Aug  8 21:55:51 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 20:55:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pre-Historics
In-Reply-To: <C12C74C9E5D4471A907F79D9E9114B1E@bboffice>
References: <4A7E2512.6030907@gmail.com>
	<C12C74C9E5D4471A907F79D9E9114B1E@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4A7E48C7.4010300@gmail.com>

wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Teri,
> Pardon my ignorance, but what are the pre-historics?
>   


Sorry, there are the Monterey Historic races at Laguna Seca:

www.montereyhistoric.com/

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monterey_Historic_Automobile_Races

This is one of the premiere historic races in the world where factories 
of the year's featured marque empty out their museum to display  their 
historic vehicles, and often show new models for the first time.  It 
costs gobs of money to attend Saturday and Sunday of the races and there 
are great crowds of people.  Where you see such cars as Mercedes W196 
streamliners & 300SLR when Mercedes is the featured marque or the Jag 
XJ-13  or Barny Oldfield's Ford 999 driving around the race track.

The pre-historics take place the weekend before the historic races.  Its 
a chance for the same invited race cars to get an additional weekend of 
racing in without the big crowds.  It is an unadvertised event and a 
chance to see the vehicles & chat with the owners without the crowd and 
where people can just be people.  Even if the guy you're chatting with 
does own a couple 250 Testarosa's and maybe a DB2R.

Monterey car week is a strange time when rare exotic cars driven on the 
streets might outnumber toyotas (at least in my dreams) and this year 
there will actually be a rally in Pacific Grove on Friday that features 
Triumphs.

www.montereycarweek.com/Events.html

Maybe its just that I live nearby that it is my favorite week of the year.

Teriann

From acekraut at suscom-maine.net  Sat Aug  8 22:07:37 2009
From: acekraut at suscom-maine.net (AC)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 00:07:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2009 BCNH Show Pics
Message-ID: <552E53F08023429CA653CC56B24CFB71@company2a887aa>

For those so inclined.. Wonderful weather today made the two hour drive from
Maine and the show well worth it. Mini was the featured marquee to celebrate
the 50th Anniversary of the Mini. Unfortunately, only one classic Mini was
there. It was a nice venue with about 100 cars in attendance, most in very
nice condition with a good variety. They are extending the show to two days
this year with Sunday featuring the British Cars again as well as adding
other European makes. Pics can be found at triumphowners.com/108. Just
scroll down until you see the pics links and follow the link for the 2009
BCNH Car show. Enjoy!

From don at napanet.net  Sat Aug  8 22:08:51 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 21:08:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Magic Bus
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090808210842.0370df30@pop.napanet.net>

If you love British cars, you will fall in love with this old Bus.  (I 
know; it's not a Leyland bus.)  It's featured on BAT and CL.

http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/08/1963-bmc-competition-department-team-bus/




<http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/08/1963-bmc-competition-department-team-bus/>1963 
BMC Competition Department Team Bus

8 Aug, 2009

"This 1963 BMC transporter has been for sale for some time but is just now 
being publicized as we near the Monterey Weekend. The seller claims that 
this is one of two such units remaining in the USA that were custom styled 
by Pininfarina, and that this one was used on the MG stand at the 1964 
Chicago Auto Show. Find it 
<http://monterey.craigslist.org/cto/1311126156.html>here on Craigslist in 
Ventura, California. We don't usually like featuring vehicles without 
stated prices, but we'll make an exception for this one!"



Don Scott
Calistoga
2001 Miata SE BRG (thinks it's an MG)
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1962 MGA (black on black)
1962 TR4 (seeking)  

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Sat Aug  8 22:37:00 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 21:37:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Magic Bus
In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20090808210842.0370df30@pop.napanet.net>
References: <6.0.3.0.1.20090808210842.0370df30@pop.napanet.net>
Message-ID: <310850.57091.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

It's a beauty, Don, and with a Cadillac rear.....Looks like it's doing 60 mph
just sitting there.  A lot of thought went into the design, with headlights
and such....What happened to the automotive industry?  Nothing is made this
way any longer....Thanks for sharing this.
Pat
________________________________
From: don <don at napanet.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, August 8, 2009 9:08:51 PM
Subject:
[TR] Magic Bus

If you love British cars, you will fall in love with this old
Bus.  (I 
know; it's not a Leyland bus.)  It's featured on BAT and CL.
http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/08/1963-bmc-competition-department-team-bus/
<http://bringatrailer.com/2009/08/08/1963-bmc-competition-department-team-bus
/>1963 
BMC Competition Department Team Bus

8 Aug, 2009

"This 1963 BMC
transporter has been for sale for some time but is just now 
being publicized
as we near the Monterey Weekend. The seller claims that 
this is one of two
such units remaining in the USA that were custom styled 
by Pininfarina, and
that this one was used on the MG stand at the 1964 
Chicago Auto Show. Find it
<http://monterey.craigslist.org/cto/1311126156.html>here on Craigslist in
Ventura, California. We don't usually like featuring vehicles without 
stated
prices, but we'll make an exception for this one!"



Don Scott
Calistoga
2001
Miata SE BRG (thinks it's an MG)
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1962 MGA (black on
black)
1962 TR4 (seeking)  
This list supported in part
by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as
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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sun Aug  9 05:50:48 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 07:50:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr-3 door work question
In-Reply-To: <749904.78199.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <749904.78199.qm@web59405.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C897E6566C2D4C7BBD2A706CE8FDBB70@CarlPC>

dimple is on opposite side of the handle opening.  I worked on it yesterday 
and had no effect.

my oil can is about the size of a larger dinner plate -15-16".  I built a 
jig so that the door is standing upright and I have an adjustable (ratchet) 
cargo bar set up to press out on the metal during the process...  Will try 
Tom Householder's suggestion at that point.  IF that doesn't work, then I 
have a an old sanding wheel I'll try on the backside to 'heat/shrink' the 
stretched metal.

Wish me luck.
C



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 4:24 PM
Subject: [TR] tr-3 door work question


> just some thoughts to further confuse.LOL
>
> I'm wondering about the "dimple"
> near the door handle.  some times on the outer edge of a panel where 
> there's a
> curve...........a dent there will cause the oil can effect to happen on
> metal on beside the dimple.  It's like the dent holds the oil can in 
> stress.
> maybe removing that "dimple" by hammer from inside will release the larger
> area............helping to remove the "oil can".  I'm not sure how large 
> the
> oil can is...............
>
> I had the same thing on my tr-3 on the "saddle" in
> front of the boot lid area.  That "oil can dent" was about the size of a 
> small
> dinner plate.  I used an old well worn grinding wheel to build heat and it 
> did
> bring the metal out and solid although not to the original shape.  It was
> close enough and solid and i"ll finish off with a skim of bondo.
>
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Aug  9 06:30:53 2009
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 08:30:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR- trf summer party
Message-ID: <cd3.5c842d06.37b01b7d@aol.com>

list, i could not make the trf summer party due to health reasons. how was  
the party? since i am a tr3 bug, can anyone give me a report on the trs's  
scene.. hope you all, 3's, 4's, 6's and all others had a blast. regards,   
larry schwartz

From Harrymague at aol.com  Sun Aug  9 08:18:26 2009
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 10:18:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
Message-ID: <cd3.5c85906e.37b034b2@aol.com>

Hi Joe, I upgraded to the triple setup last summer.  Had a few  alignment 
problems, but easily solveable.  Ask me any questions.   Harry Mague, 
Beavercreek Ohio
 
 
In a message dated 8/9/2009 8:25:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
supertr6 at earthlink.net writes:

Howdy  all,

Does anyone have experience with Good Parts Triple ZS setup?  

Thanks,

Joe

72  TR6
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From rengrave at verizon.net  Sun Aug  9 08:53:12 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 10:53:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Springs
Message-ID: <AEC211DC3C70413AB5C76F6625E401E5@RossFamily>

I am about to replace my rear springs on my 73 TR6.
The original springs are on the car, and the driver's side is sagging.
I plan on installing new original spec springs (Moss 675-045, 354#/sq in,
$31.95 ea.).
I am keeping my lever shocks, I will check the motion and maybe replace the
oil.
However, I do not plan on replacing the front springs.

Is this ok?
Will the rear end become to lively because I am not replacing the front?

The front shocks are good (not original ones, but a stock type replacement I
installed years ago).


Wayne

From rengrave at verizon.net  Sun Aug  9 09:04:26 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 11:04:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers
Message-ID: <5DD4B00C926C458CB371FD26E1E6F2DD@RossFamily>

I am about to put the engine back together on the TR6 and I am not sure if I
should
"pin" the thrust washers to the block.
I have read that I could pin (brass pins) the thrust washer to the block.
Buy the solid bronze washers (Scott Helms) and not pin them.
Buy an extra set and machine the rear main cap to accept a washer, so I would
have twice the bearing service.
Or just assemble the washer the original way (no pins) and check end float
every 10,000 miles.

My concern about pinning, is that I would get the same wear, but I would not
be able to replace the washers with the engine in the car.

I kniow this was a popular issue in the past, but I was hoping there was a
"time proven" winning method for this.


Wayne

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug  9 09:16:44 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 11:16:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers
In-Reply-To: <5DD4B00C926C458CB371FD26E1E6F2DD@RossFamily>
References: <5DD4B00C926C458CB371FD26E1E6F2DD@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <200908091116.44818.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 09 August 2009 11:04:26 am Wayne wrote:
> I am about to put the engine back together on the TR6 and I am not sure if
> I should
> "pin" the thrust washers to the block.
> I have read that I could pin (brass pins) the thrust washer to the block.
> Buy the solid bronze washers (Scott Helms) and not pin them.
> Buy an extra set and machine the rear main cap to accept a washer, so I
> would have twice the bearing service.
> Or just assemble the washer the original way (no pins) and check end float
> every 10,000 miles.
>
> My concern about pinning, is that I would get the same wear, but I would
> not be able to replace the washers with the engine in the car.
>
> I kniow this was a popular issue in the past, but I was hoping there was a
> "time proven" winning method for this.
>
>
> Wayne
Wayne,

I installed the upgraded thrust washers from Wishbone Classics.

For some reason, the original thrust washers were still in spec as was the 
rest of the engine.

As long as you check the end float as you suggested, I see no reason to add a 
full washer by machining the caps. 

If this engine is for a driver, not a racer, then I would go with the std 
setup.

Bob

From rengrave at verizon.net  Sun Aug  9 09:41:15 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 11:41:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers
In-Reply-To: <200908091116.44818.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <5DD4B00C926C458CB371FD26E1E6F2DD@RossFamily>
	<200908091116.44818.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <D81535392F954842B29F92D5C504F141@RossFamily>

Thanks Bob,

The washers I took out (I think they are the original ones) are also in good 
shape.
They are actually thicker than the news ones I bought (Glacier).
The car will be a daily driver, not a racer.
I think I will just install them and not pin them. I would like to use a 
good quality washer.
What is the Wishbone Classics washer made of?  How much is a std set?

Wayne


 > Wayne,
>
> I installed the upgraded thrust washers from Wishbone Classics.
>
> For some reason, the original thrust washers were still in spec as was the
> rest of the engine.
>
> As long as you check the end float as you suggested, I see no reason to 
> add a
> full washer by machining the caps.
>
> If this engine is for a driver, not a racer, then I would go with the std
> setup.
>
> Bob 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Aug  9 10:59:22 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 12:59:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers
In-Reply-To: <D81535392F954842B29F92D5C504F141@RossFamily>
References: <5DD4B00C926C458CB371FD26E1E6F2DD@RossFamily><200908091116.44818.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<D81535392F954842B29F92D5C504F141@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <B11CD11B1D1347A0801C72C57BF9927E@BOBSNEWPC>

The guys I know who bought the custom washers from Scott Helms
(http://www.customthrustwashers.com/) swear by them. Did Kia at Wishbone
develop his own version too?


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 11:41 AM
To: Bob; Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Thrust washers

Thanks Bob,

The washers I took out (I think they are the original ones) are also in good
shape.
They are actually thicker than the news ones I bought (Glacier).
The car will be a daily driver, not a racer.
I think I will just install them and not pin them. I would like to use a
good quality washer.
What is the Wishbone Classics washer made of?  How much is a std set?

Wayne


 > Wayne,
>
> I installed the upgraded thrust washers from Wishbone Classics.
>
> For some reason, the original thrust washers were still in spec as was 
> the rest of the engine.
>
> As long as you check the end float as you suggested, I see no reason 
> to add a full washer by machining the caps.
>
> If this engine is for a driver, not a racer, then I would go with the 
> std setup.
>
> Bob
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Aug  9 11:03:48 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 13:03:48 EDT
Subject: [TR] Broke the GT6+
Message-ID: <d4f.5906e062.37b05b74@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
For the first time ever at a Triumph Event, a Triumph left me on the side  
of the road when the GT6+ snapped the thrust side U-Joint off the diff 
during  the poker run at the TRF Summer Party. At least I got my 3 runs in on  
the drag strip and autox before she broke.  I am going to tell you all  a 
warning for this looks like a clean break, snapped in half, most likely  
inferior replacement part with less than 2000 miles on it.  Not sure for I  broke 
my NOS Speedometer too.
 
Yikes, always something, Huh?  Anyone else had one fail like  this?  Ok I 
was flogging it a little on the drag strip and autocross  but not that bad 
for all my times sort of sucked.  I heard a bad  clunk from the rear on my 
third drag run launch and a small clunk  developed after the autox whilst 
taking up the drive, but nothing to suggest  that catastrophic failure was 
imminent. 
 
Someone has said the u-joints with grease jerks are weakened by the hole  
drilled right in the center.  Is that a possibility?
 
Woe is Me,
Darrell

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug  9 11:53:43 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 13:53:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Broke the GT6+
In-Reply-To: <d4f.5906e062.37b05b74@aol.com>
References: <d4f.5906e062.37b05b74@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200908091353.43860.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 09 August 2009 01:03:48 pm TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:
> Hey Guys,
> For the first time ever at a Triumph Event, a Triumph left me on the side
> of the road when the GT6+ snapped the thrust side U-Joint off the diff
> during  the poker run at the TRF Summer Party. At least I got my 3 runs in
> on the drag strip and autox before she broke.  I am going to tell you all 
> a warning for this looks like a clean break, snapped in half, most likely
> inferior replacement part with less than 2000 miles on it.  Not sure for I 
> broke my NOS Speedometer too.
>
> Yikes, always something, Huh?  Anyone else had one fail like  this?  Ok I
> was flogging it a little on the drag strip and autocross  but not that bad
> for all my times sort of sucked.  I heard a bad  clunk from the rear on my
> third drag run launch and a small clunk  developed after the autox whilst
> taking up the drive, but nothing to suggest  that catastrophic failure was
> imminent.
>
> Someone has said the u-joints with grease jerks are weakened by the hole
> drilled right in the center.  Is that a possibility?
>
> Woe is Me,
> Darrell
Darrel,

I have heard that before on this and the 6 pack list.
But I believe there is someone who makes a stronger u joint.

Anyone on the list know the supplier?

Anyway, you should be able to source a temporary replacement at TRF and should 
have enough help around to get it installed for your ride home.

One more reason I don't push my 3 and 4 and will also take it easy with the 6 
when it is done.

Bob

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Aug  9 12:10:16 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 11:10:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Broke the GT6+
In-Reply-To: <200908091353.43860.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <d4f.5906e062.37b05b74@aol.com>
	<200908091353.43860.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <a06240800c6a4c11bb3fa@[192.168.2.3]>

IMHO, Spicer is the Only Way To Go ...

	http://www.spicerparts.com/driveshaft/automotive.asp


>On Sunday 09 August 2009 01:03:48 pm TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:
>  > Hey Guys,
>>  For the first time ever at a Triumph Event, a Triumph left me on the side
>>  of the road when the GT6+ snapped the thrust side U-Joint off the diff
>>  during  the poker run at the TRF Summer Party. At least I got my 3 runs in
>>  on the drag strip and autox before she broke.  I am going to tell you all
>>  a warning for this looks like a clean break, snapped in half, most likely
>>  inferior replacement part with less than 2000 miles on it.  Not sure for I
>>  broke my NOS Speedometer too.
>>
>>  Yikes, always something, Huh?  Anyone else had one fail like  this?  Ok I
>>  was flogging it a little on the drag strip and autocross  but not that bad
>>  for all my times sort of sucked.  I heard a bad  clunk from the rear on my
>>  third drag run launch and a small clunk  developed after the autox whilst
>>  taking up the drive, but nothing to suggest  that catastrophic failure was
>>  imminent.
>>
>>  Someone has said the u-joints with grease jerks are weakened by the hole
>>  drilled right in the center.  Is that a possibility?
>>
>>  Woe is Me,
>>  Darrell
>Darrel,
>
>I have heard that before on this and the 6 pack list.
>But I believe there is someone who makes a stronger u joint.
>
>Anyone on the list know the supplier?
>
>Anyway, you should be able to source a temporary replacement at TRF and should
>have enough help around to get it installed for your ride home.
>
>One more reason I don't push my 3 and 4 and will also take it easy with the 6
>when it is done.
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From rengrave at verizon.net  Sun Aug  9 12:17:01 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 14:17:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers
In-Reply-To: <200908091348.40912.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <5DD4B00C926C458CB371FD26E1E6F2DD@RossFamily>
	<200908091116.44818.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<D81535392F954842B29F92D5C504F141@RossFamily>
	<200908091348.40912.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <FC92DD2B7A7F402DAE713E444CB9A84D@RossFamily>

What are they made of ?
I can buy solid bronze ones from Scott Helms for $20.00 I think.

Wayne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: "Wayne" <rengrave at verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 1:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Thrust washers


> On Sunday 09 August 2009 11:41:15 am you wrote:
>> Thanks Bob,
>>
>> The washers I took out (I think they are the original ones) are also in
>> good shape.
>> They are actually thicker than the news ones I bought (Glacier).
>> The car will be a daily driver, not a racer.
>> I think I will just install them and not pin them. I would like to use a
>> good quality washer.
>> What is the Wishbone Classics washer made of?  How much is a std set?
>>
>> Wayne
>>
> Wayne,
>
> They are quite expensive but I decided to use them because of all the 
> horror
> stories I have heard on the 6 pack forum.
>
> I think they were somewhere between 80 and 90 bucks!
>
> Sounds like a lot I know but I didn't want to scrimp on such a critical 
> part.
>
> Bob 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  9 12:24:06 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 11:24:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Broke the GT6+
In-Reply-To: <d4f.5906e062.37b05b74@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090809182406689.UWPJ22765@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Someone has said the u-joints with grease jerks are weakened by the hole
> drilled right in the center.  Is that a possibility?

Yes, but the 'good' joints have some reinforcement in that area.  There is
kind of a boss cast in around where the hole is.

Usually, the reason they break is because the bearings have gotten worn and
allowed the joint to become sloppy.  The shock loading of greatly multiplied
engine torque taking up that slack is what breaks them, IMO.  If you can
find the needles from the broken joint, I'll bet they are significantly
worn.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  9 12:28:16 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 11:28:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] Thrust washers
In-Reply-To: <5DD4B00C926C458CB371FD26E1E6F2DD@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <20090809182816946.UYNB22765@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> I kniow this was a popular issue in the past, but I was hoping there was a
> "time proven" winning method for this.

Most people seem to go with the uprated washers from Scott.  However, if I
had a TR6, I would have the cap machined for a second washer.  That is the
way the earlier TR engines were; and they never, ever have thrust washer
problems (while thrust washer problems on the TR6 seem to be fairly common,
even on ordinary, street-driven cars).

I believe MJB has also advocated the same modification for Spitfires.

Randall

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Aug  9 12:57:34 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 13:57:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] ERROR
References: <A2AF8E7D-2701-4E8D-9F69-F7D87297F22E@earthlink.net>
	<FCAF3157537C42729F276D0A7065FD99@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <5ED64AA882624E70809611DFBF25EB9C@yourpd3mh0abgs>

what you are seeing is Michael Moore's bum.  it's as large as russia.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
To: "'Andy Graybeal'" <andygraybeal at earthlink.net>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] ERROR


> And Sara Palin's home.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andy Graybeal
> Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 2:40 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] ERROR
>
> The difference is that from Mt. McKinley you can see Russia!
>
>
>
>
> Andy Graybeal
> Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
> http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Index.php
> andy.graybeal at gmail.com
> 650.968.6877
>
> o?<
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From acekraut at suscom-maine.net  Sat Aug  8 21:50:15 2009
From: acekraut at suscom-maine.net (AC)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 23:50:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2009 BCNH Show Pics
Message-ID: <764DEB4887DC4DF59D6E121CC19D67A0@company2a887aa>

For those so inclined.. Wonderful weather today made the two hour drive from
Maine and the show well worth it. Mini was the featured marquee to celebrate
the 50th Anniversary of the Mini. Unfortunately, only one classic Mini was
there. It was a nice venue with about 100 cars in attendance, most in very
nice condition with a good variety. They are extending the show to two days
this year with Sunday featuring the British Cars again as well as adding
other European makes. Pics can be found at triumphowners.com/108. Just
scroll down until you see the pics links and follow the link for the 2009
BCNH Car show. Enjoy!

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Aug  9 15:16:35 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 17:16:35 EDT
Subject: [TR] Broke the GT6+
Message-ID: <be1.61541a6e.37b096b3@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/9/2009 1:54:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

Anyway,  you should be able to source a temporary replacement at TRF and 
should  
have enough help around to get it installed for your ride home.

One  more reason I don't push my 3 and 4 and will also take it easy with 
the 6  
when it is done.

Bob


Hi Bob,
As usual @ Triumph events once I got to the side of the road I was swarmed  
by other Triumph Rallyists willing to give up their time to help out.   
Since I stopped on a hill several of them helped push the GT up the hill to a  
parts store and out of harms way. A jack was offered, TRF had the part but  
after some consideration I decided that the rotoflex axle would be a pain to 
 remove to properly install the u-joint w/o that special Churchill tool  
required to support the spring load even if I towed it back to TRF. Thanks  to 
all who helped out! 
 
My good friends, Eric Langreder and Jim Shear stopped by and offered  to 
drive me back to the hotel to get my trailer for the rescue.  All was  well in 
a few hours although Eric's son, Tim, and my wife Beverly had to stay  back 
with the GT for a few hours.  They were entertained by some locals who  
stopped by to inquire if they could help. One was a former MG SCCA racer who 
was  curious why I was not doing the roadside repair?    
Thanks Jim, Eric & Tim!
 
You know the GT has autoxed before w/o incident.  I run my TR's hard  at 
Triumph events. I really believe that if they are right they can  take it. 
Perhaps the trailer as a back up makes a difference but there are  times when I 
leave that @ home.  I usually never trailer to the TRF SP but  time I was 
hauling some tires to give to John Swauger.  Perhaps I was just  due. 
 
Darrell

From agraham at execulink.com  Sun Aug  9 16:53:55 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 18:53:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing engine in TR2/3
Message-ID: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello Listers:
Approaching the engine installation stage on my long TR2 resto and 
wondering if installing engine/trans/od as a unit makes more sense 
than mating trans to engine in the car. The engine compartment is 
freshly painted, so some anxiety around clearances, etc. Have got the 
steering cross-shaft out, so have a bit more clearance from the front.
Any advice from past experiences? Engine and trans came out 
separately, but that operation is usually easier with old paint in 
engine compartment.
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Aug  9 17:06:50 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 19:06:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing engine in TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>
References: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <20A6476364554A3EBAA44EFD95FBA96B@DCH6RFC1>

I've done it twice and both times did engine/trans/od as a single unit.
Watch the area on the gearbox where the speedometer cable attaches - it is
easily damaged if you are concentrating too much on the front of the car (he
speaks from experience.....)

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 6:54 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Installing engine in TR2/3

Hello Listers:
Approaching the engine installation stage on my long TR2 resto and 
wondering if installing engine/trans/od as a unit makes more sense 
than mating trans to engine in the car. The engine compartment is 
freshly painted, so some anxiety around clearances, etc. Have got the 
steering cross-shaft out, so have a bit more clearance from the front.
Any advice from past experiences? Engine and trans came out 
separately, but that operation is usually easier with old paint in 
engine compartment.
Thanks for any help with this.
Angelo Graham
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  9 17:07:37 2009
From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 16:07:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
In-Reply-To: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <292276.5048.qm@web51303.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Teh triple manifold with throttle bodies from TWM (or others) would be really
cool!

I'm considering the triple manifold as well, please share your experiences if
you go for it.

Steve


--- On Sat, 8/8/09, Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> From: Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
> Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, August 8, 2009, 9:32 AM
> Howdy all,
>
> Does anyone have experience with Good Parts Triple ZS
> setup?
> Thanks,
>
> Joe
>
> 72 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dogzbody1 at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug  9 17:22:18 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 19:22:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Installing engine in TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>
References: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <200908091922.18537.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 09 August 2009 06:53:55 pm Angelo Graham wrote:
> Hello Listers:
> Approaching the engine installation stage on my long TR2 resto and
> wondering if installing engine/trans/od as a unit makes more sense
> than mating trans to engine in the car. The engine compartment is
> freshly painted, so some anxiety around clearances, etc. Have got the
> steering cross-shaft out, so have a bit more clearance from the front.
> Any advice from past experiences? Engine and trans came out
> separately, but that operation is usually easier with old paint in
> engine compartment.
> Thanks for any help with this.
> Angelo Graham
Angelo,

I believe it is easier to install both as a unit. I always have.

You can install the engine separate, but it is not an easy job mating the 
trans to the engine. But I also have done it in the past, many years ago when 
I was much younger.

Just be careful and get some help to guide the transmission.

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug  9 17:34:26 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 16:34:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Installing engine in TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <20090809233427363.BBZX22765@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Approaching the engine installation stage on my long TR2 resto and
> wondering if installing engine/trans/od as a unit makes more sense
> than mating trans to engine in the car. 

IMO, YES!

For paint protection, I might be tempted to wrap the whole thing in bubble
wrap during the process.  Probably best to leave the manifolds off, too.

You need some way to tilt the engine/trans during the process.  I have been
known to "make do" with just a length of chain through the hook on the
hoist, and a big tapered drift to lever the chain through the hook as needed
(and lock it in place).  But I used something similar to this
http://tinyurl.com/lcc4jp
last time, and it was somewhat easier that way.  Just don't forget that the
crank needs to go on the end away from the hoist <G>

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Aug  9 18:10:02 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 20:10:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
In-Reply-To: <292276.5048.qm@web51303.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>
	<292276.5048.qm@web51303.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6A7E81D23E3844AE847C4B70E54E636B@BOBSNEWPC>

The TWM product is really cool looking but big $$$$$ when you consider that
it doesn't include the ECM, MAP, distributor conversion or ignition module.
Rick Patton ( www.pattonmachine.com ) can now do TBI for tri-carbs as a
complete kit.

NFI....but a very satisfied two carb customer! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Smith
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 7:08 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup

Teh triple manifold with throttle bodies from TWM (or others) would be
really cool!

I'm considering the triple manifold as well, please share your experiences
if you go for it.

Steve


--- On Sat, 8/8/09, Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> From: Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
> Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Saturday, August 8, 2009, 9:32 AM Howdy all,
>
> Does anyone have experience with Good Parts Triple ZS setup?
> Thanks,
>
> Joe
>
> 72 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as dogzbody1 at yahoo.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
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From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Aug  9 18:10:25 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 19:10:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Installing engine in TR2/3
References: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <6F60B699E37C4746BD3DD8B80F9377A2@yourpd3mh0abgs>

I think you will have more success putting them in together. I have used 
cardboard along with some helpers to carefully guide it into position in 
order to install the units without damaging paint, etc..
In this case, patience is a true virtue.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angelo Graham" <agraham at execulink.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2009 5:53 PM
Subject: [TR] Installing engine in TR2/3


> Hello Listers:
> Approaching the engine installation stage on my long TR2 resto and 
> wondering if installing engine/trans/od as a unit makes more sense than 
> mating trans to engine in the car. The engine compartment is freshly 
> painted, so some anxiety around clearances, etc. Have got the steering 
> cross-shaft out, so have a bit more clearance from the front.
> Any advice from past experiences? Engine and trans came out separately, 
> but that operation is usually easier with old paint in engine compartment.
> Thanks for any help with this.
> Angelo Graham
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Aug  9 20:24:32 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:24:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party 2009
Message-ID: <BAY123-W48B3E73E5168990E2CA884BA060@phx.gbl>

We just got back from the 2009 Roadster Factory Summer Party. HAD AN ABSOLUTE
BLAST.  It was great visiting with everybody. Below are a couple of videos. Do
a cut and paste. One is an in-car video of me in the Spitfire at the autocross
and the second is Jason in Evelyn's TR8 at the LemMans Start contest.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NXvbaOhfDZU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFHLZCspTWY

Marty Sukey



_________________________________________________________________
Express your personality in color! Preview and select themes for Hotmail..
http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/LearnMore/personalize.aspx?ocid=PID23391::
T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HYGN_express:082009

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sun Aug  9 20:56:05 2009
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2009 22:56:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Johnmac Visit
Message-ID: <c46.5e579df2.37b0e645@aol.com>

Our Club had a delightful visit and dinner with Johnmac this evening.   
Tomorrow is a down day for John before a trip to Fayettetville (sp) for  
Tuesday.  If anyone is on the list from the Arkansas club please send John  and I 
an e-mail so we can co-ordinate the hand off Tuesday.
 
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs
Member at Large
918-625-6798
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222846709x1201493018/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=JulystepsfooterNO115)

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug  9 21:00:14 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 2009 22:00:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Installing engine in TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>
References: <200908092253.n79MrdUe006717@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <20090810030041.38BDB1878B2@autox.team.net>

Sounds like the consensus is to have them assembled together.  That 
certainly works easiest in a TR-4.

It may even be easier in a TR-3 with the front apron off...  (It's my 
understanding that you need to have the front apron off to remove / 
install the engine in the 3.)

Here's pictures of me installing the motor in my TR-4 - may give you 
some idea of the sequence.
http://www.tonydrews.com/2008-9Rebuild/2008-9_Rebuild-Engine_Installation.htm

- Tony Drews

At 05:53 PM 8/9/2009, Angelo Graham wrote:
>Hello Listers:
>Approaching the engine installation stage on my long TR2 resto and 
>wondering if installing engine/trans/od as a unit makes more sense 
>than mating trans to engine in the car. The engine compartment is 
>freshly painted, so some anxiety around clearances, etc. Have got 
>the steering cross-shaft out, so have a bit more clearance from the front.
>Any advice from past experiences? Engine and trans came out 
>separately, but that operation is usually easier with old paint in 
>engine compartment.
>Thanks for any help with this.
>Angelo Graham

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Aug 10 05:12:09 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 07:12:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] spitfire intake
Message-ID: <1094538526D542D3A799DDFDBCF1C76B@Alan>

Someone asked me if a tr4 intake will fit on a Spitfire 1500.

My first impluse was to say no,  but I thought I'd ask.

Thanks

Al

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug 10 06:34:25 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 08:34:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party 2009
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W48B3E73E5168990E2CA884BA060@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4A7FDB91.16292.3384FC4F@localhost>

On 9 Aug 2009 at 22:24, marty sukey wrote:

> Below are a couple of videos.

Cool videos, especially the in-car autocross.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Mon Aug 10 07:04:58 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 08:04:58 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Steering wheel shaft bushings
Message-ID: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

TR experts,

My  1973 TR6 steering wheel has some up and down motion. I have read here that there is a press in bushing option that has worked for others.

Does anyone have the demensions to make these bushings? I have the equipment and the material and am in need of a project.


Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN





.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Aug 10 07:35:11 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 09:35:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Steering wheel shaft bushings
In-Reply-To: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <9332D64E08BB46089943E3A51FEFC4FD@BOBSNEWPC>

You're probably referring to Art Lipp's DELRIN bushings
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm) I think he gets about
$20 for them and it's a simple "press in" fit once you get everything apart.
No need to even remove the old bushings.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Gelhar
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 9:05 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Steering wheel shaft bushings

TR experts,

My  1973 TR6 steering wheel has some up and down motion. I have read here
that there is a press in bushing option that has worked for others.

Does anyone have the demensions to make these bushings? I have the equipment
and the material and am in need of a project.


Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN





.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 09:34:27 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 11:34:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Search
In-Reply-To: <9332D64E08BB46089943E3A51FEFC4FD@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<9332D64E08BB46089943E3A51FEFC4FD@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <556D8C1E93BC427D84F41CAFB5DC14C7@DCH6RFC1>

A few years ago, I bought a fabricated panel for my TR3 on eBay.  The piece
was a repair panel for the rear apron and included a lower lip for the spare
tire opening.  

The guy turned out to be a high school teacher in Kentucky who made panels
like these in his spare time.

I have been approached by a friend who is looking for the same repair panel
for his restoration project and I have lost the contact information.  Does
anyone know the person in KY, or where my friend could get what he's looking
for? Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Aug 10 11:12:34 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 12:12:34 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] tr-3 door work question - update
Message-ID: <1296322125.248415.1249924354565.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net>


From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 10 11:34:00 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 10:34:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 trunk weather-strip
Message-ID: <53475.46659.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i know this has been covered before but my search of the go back machine has
not turned up any results.
probably operator error!
so i just fitted my nice
new glossy original trunk lid to my nice and glossy TR3. new weather-strip of
course.
the weather-strip fitted real nice into my grove.
to get the trunk to
close i have to shim the budget lock.
having shimmed the lock and got it
closed the outer edges (lock stile only) are turned up and look terrible.
how
have you guys overcome this?
i did set all margins and shape to good with the
old weatherstrip in place during prep work in readiness for paint.
if you cut
your weather-strip, how did you cut it for a consistent shape? im not sure me
hacking at it with a box cutter is the best approach.
thanks
Frank
P.S. boy
those replacement hinges are a piece of junk eh?

From Harrymague at aol.com  Mon Aug 10 12:05:08 2009
From: Harrymague at aol.com (Harrymague at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 14:05:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
Message-ID: <ce9.5c7057f5.37b1bb54@aol.com>

Driveability and maintenance:  No problems The alignment took some  doing.  
I am not at home presently, but in Boston.  I get home  tonite.  Tomorrow 
I'll try and send a couple of pictures of how I modified  part of the linkage 
to work smoother.  I sent these to goodparts, but  didn't hear anything 
back.  I would make sure the intake head is  flush.  Will save some of the 
alignment problems.  I shaved the  gaskets between the head and intakes 
manifolds to get a better alignment.   Problem was probably in my head, but not 
sure.  Just took a lot of trial  and error.  One thing really don't like, but 
can't do anything about is the  choke cable.  Only goes to two of the carbs.  
When it is cold, my car  really doesn't like it!!!!  Once it is warm, big 
improvement in idle and  midrange.  I really don't push the top end.  The fuel 
line mod from  goodparts is great, big plus.  Tuning is easy as with two 
carbs.  I'll  try and send those photos tomorrow.  Good Luck   Harry
 
 
In a message dated 8/10/2009 1:52:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
supertr6 at earthlink.net writes:

Harry,

Thanks.  Any issues with the parts?  Setup  (other than alignment)?  
Driveability?   Maintenance?

Joe

_Harrymague at aol.com_ (mailto:Harrymague at aol.com)  wrote:  
Hi Joe, I upgraded to the triple setup last summer.  Had a few  alignment 
problems, but easily solveable.  Ask me any questions.   Harry Mague, 
Beavercreek Ohio
 
 
In a message dated 8/9/2009 8:25:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
_supertr6 at earthlink.net_ (mailto:supertr6 at earthlink.net)   writes:

Howdy all,

Does anyone have experience with Good Parts  Triple ZS setup? 

Thanks,

Joe

72  TR6
This  list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
_http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 


_Triumphs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net) 
_http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs_ 
(http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs) 

You  are subscribed as _harrymague at aol.com_ (mailto:harrymague at aol.com) 

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____________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 10 12:39:04 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 11:39:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] tr3 trunk weather-strip
In-Reply-To: <53475.46659.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <53475.46659.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7C6BBB0C01D345A3A3012EA7E3287817@jdnet.deere.com>

> to get the trunk to
> close i have to shim the budget lock.

Not all seals are created equal, Frank.  I had exactly the same problem with
TS39781LO; but the seal I got for TS13571L (from TRF) fit perfectly.

It appears that some of the seals sold are dimensionally correct, but much
too firm.  The proper seal has a firm outer skin but a very soft core; it
should crush instead of distorting the lid.

You're welcome to come by and have a look.

-- Randall 

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Aug 10 13:50:58 2009
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 15:50:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Measuring end float question
In-Reply-To: <1094538526D542D3A799DDFDBCF1C76B@Alan>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501E7C092@mail.ex-centris.net>

Hello all:

I have decided to try measuring the crankshaft end float on my TR6. I
purchased a magnetic mount and a dial gauge. However, a question comes
to mind: I have the Gunst throw-out bearing setup (working nicely BTW).
It has a permanent pre-load given by a spring. Will this cause the crank
to shift the "zero" position that I obtain by pushing the crank pulley
rear-ward? Will I need an assistant to keep pressure on the pulley to
defeat the spring, or is friction too high for this to account for much?

Cheers,

Mark

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Aug 10 17:46:16 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 17:46:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] tr3 trunk weather-strip
In-Reply-To: <53475.46659.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <53475.46659.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B33CAFAF407E486C98EB80BDBEDAE5D4@bboffice>

I got my stripping from Moss and it seems to lay in quite nicely.  After
trying both ways I determined that the lip faces out, and that seems to
help, I guess it presses against the rolled edge of the boot lid when it is
closed... I didn't climb in to confirm it.

BTW, I would like to know where the weather-strip joint goes.  I'm thinking
that at the top in the center is the safest place.

Bill

PS: Yep, at less than 200 miles on the car the pin fell out of the bonnet
hinge! 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 11:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3 trunk weather-strip

i know this has been covered before but my search of the go back machine has
not turned up any results.
probably operator error!
so i just fitted my nice
new glossy original trunk lid to my nice and glossy TR3. new weather-strip
of course.
the weather-strip fitted real nice into my grove.
to get the trunk to
close i have to shim the budget lock.
having shimmed the lock and got it
closed the outer edges (lock stile only) are turned up and look terrible.
how
have you guys overcome this?
i did set all margins and shape to good with the old weatherstrip in place
during prep work in readiness for paint.
if you cut
your weather-strip, how did you cut it for a consistent shape? im not sure
me hacking at it with a box cutter is the best approach.
thanks
Frank
P.S. boy
those replacement hinges are a piece of junk eh?
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 18:03:10 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:03:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 trunk weather-strip
In-Reply-To: <53475.46659.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <53475.46659.qm@web111619.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41B67AFD7C224C739F330E4215F9AFBA@DCH6RFC1>

I found I had to tap down the groove which holds the weather strip.  In one
place I had to cut out a piece and re-weld, but this probably isn't a good
idea for new paint.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 1:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3 trunk weather-strip

i know this has been covered before but my search of the go back machine has
not turned up any results.
probably operator error!
so i just fitted my nice
new glossy original trunk lid to my nice and glossy TR3. new weather-strip
of
course.
the weather-strip fitted real nice into my grove.
to get the trunk to
close i have to shim the budget lock.
having shimmed the lock and got it
closed the outer edges (lock stile only) are turned up and look terrible.
how
have you guys overcome this?
i did set all margins and shape to good with the
old weatherstrip in place during prep work in readiness for paint.
if you cut
your weather-strip, how did you cut it for a consistent shape? im not sure
me
hacking at it with a box cutter is the best approach.
thanks
Frank
P.S. boy
those replacement hinges are a piece of junk eh?
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 18:09:41 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:09:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Search
In-Reply-To: <556D8C1E93BC427D84F41CAFB5DC14C7@DCH6RFC1>
References: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net><9332D64E08BB46089943E3A51FEFC4FD@BOBSNEWPC>
	<556D8C1E93BC427D84F41CAFB5DC14C7@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <4DA7618CBACF458B86BE96DAB7C9CECF@DCH6RFC1>

Many, many thanks to those who replied.  The guy is Jeff Slaton, and I now
have his contact information.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 11:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Search

A few years ago, I bought a fabricated panel for my TR3 on eBay.  The piece
was a repair panel for the rear apron and included a lower lip for the spare
tire opening.  

The guy turned out to be a high school teacher in Kentucky who made panels
like these in his spare time.

I have been approached by a friend who is looking for the same repair panel
for his restoration project and I have lost the contact information.  Does
anyone know the person in KY, or where my friend could get what he's looking
for? Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From jimbpps at cox.net  Mon Aug 10 18:28:22 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (jimbpps at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:28:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] My TR Tour, Day 4, at the All Triumph Drive In
Message-ID: <20090810202822.JFTV6.99276.imail@fed1rmwml45>

Portland Triumph Owners club has really picked a nice venue! A very large resort complex with a large 2 story hotel, a bunch of condos, 3 restaurants, 2 golf courses, softball fields, and soccer fields where the car show will be held! 

Registration was well run with the registration packets well organized and all the regalia displayed,  they also had some ATDI Tee shirts for sale that were not available when the registration was originally designed. They also offered complimentary ice cold bottled water, a choice several snacks of candy and nuts. Good show!

They had a car washing station set up across the driveway from the hotel very near my room! It was busy pretty much all day. I know I spent about 2 1/2 hours cleaning the TR250 and then detailing it. Man-o-man, I couldn't believe how dirty it got driving from Scottsdale to Redmond; it was only 1230 miles! Hopefully, I will only have to do some touch up after we are positioned on the field tomorrow!

They had a Funkhana in the parking lot across from the hotel from 2:00 to 5:00. And a lot of folks took the opportunity to try their driving skill/luck in that venue! I just watched, having made a fool of myself too many times in the past in those types of events!

In the evening there was a welcome bar-b-que dinner in the conference center across the street from the hotel. However due to the low temps and high winds over the last day or so, it was an 'inside barbeque'. Still fun and an opportunity to meet lots of new friends!

Tomorrow the car show!

Jim
Jim Bauder
'68 TR 250; CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ 
Cell: 480-309-9525

From triumph.driver at gmail.com  Mon Aug 10 18:47:19 2009
From: triumph.driver at gmail.com (Chuck White)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:47:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Search
In-Reply-To: <4DA7618CBACF458B86BE96DAB7C9CECF@DCH6RFC1>
References: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net><9332D64E08BB46089943E3A51FEFC4FD@BOBSNEWPC><556D8C1E93BC427D84F41CAFB5DC14C7@DCH6RFC1>
	<4DA7618CBACF458B86BE96DAB7C9CECF@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <88896D9795A348D083BB813D11DB7E5F@chuck>

Would you please share it with the list?  I might have a use for his contact
info in the future.

Thanks!

Chuck White
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A IRS
1970 GT6+ 

-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 8:10 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Search

Many, many thanks to those who replied.  The guy is Jeff Slaton, and I now
have his contact information.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 11:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Search

A few years ago, I bought a fabricated panel for my TR3 on eBay.  The piece
was a repair panel for the rear apron and included a lower lip for the spare
tire opening.  

The guy turned out to be a high school teacher in Kentucky who made panels
like these in his spare time.

I have been approached by a friend who is looking for the same repair panel
for his restoration project and I have lost the contact information.  Does
anyone know the person in KY, or where my friend could get what he's looking
for? Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 10 19:47:18 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 21:47:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party Autox
Message-ID: <BAY123-W25AC79BA58FE42CA2C4DE5BA070@phx.gbl>

Are the owners of the blue TR250 with OH plates running 63/64/65 in M3 and the
blue Herald on the list? I have some pictures of you running I can email you.
The one of the Herald is interesting to see the least:)

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
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From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Mon Aug 10 20:07:58 2009
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:07:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A gas tank vent pipe question
Message-ID: <2983CDFCDEE3436D86B86CB5EF563584@Dell>

Is there any type of check valve that is supposed to be in the banjo fitting
on the TR3A gas tank vent pipe? Or is there supposed to be something inside
the tank to prevent gas from pouring out on corners? I am tired of being
relegated to the back of the pack, not to mention the cost of the gasoline I'm
leaving on the street. Anyone else have this problem and come up with a cure?
The tank is relatively new and in good condition.
Thanks,
Bob

From banjonut at verizon.net  Mon Aug 10 20:14:21 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 19:14:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tire size question TR3A
Message-ID: <74C0D23ACF754410839ABAA239EFF43F@HAMPC>

I'd like to ask a question of the list.  I know this has been discussed
before, but all I need is some simple information, and hopefully it won't open
a can of worms.

I'm rebuilding a '60 TR3A, with stock front suspension and steering, and I
plan to run Panasport wheels, 15" X 5.5" (Moss P/N 854-825).  If any of you
have this size wheel (preferably this exact wheel), I would like to know what
size and brand of tire you are using (for street use).  Also, where did you
buy the tires (online, local store, etc)?

I'm not going to race the car, and I don't want to modify the wheels or sheet
metal, but on the other hand, I don't want a tire that looks ridiculously
narrow either.  I just want to know what size tire works without rubbing, etc,
and what tire "looks like it belongs on the car".  I've read a bunch of
literature about tire sizes and I'm totally confused, so I thought I'd try to
find out what actually works.

Thanks to the list in advance.

Steve Ball
Lompoc CA
TS68164L

email:  banjonut at verizon.net

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 10 20:27:18 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 21:27:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] Measuring end float question
In-Reply-To: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501E7C092@mail.ex-centris.n et>
References: <1094538526D542D3A799DDFDBCF1C76B@Alan>
	<C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501E7C092@mail.ex-centris.net>
Message-ID: <20090811022750.B6393188D7B@autox.team.net>

Mark, I don't know the answer with certainty (regarding the Gunst 
throw-out), but I'd certainly put pressure on the crank towards the 
rear of the car to measure the "zero" position.  Then you can have 
someone push on the clutch for the other end of movement (or pry the 
front pulley forward gently).  Since everything is floating in oil it 
shouldn't take too much pressure to move the crank fore and aft.

- Tony Drews.

At 02:50 PM 8/10/2009, Mark Hooper wrote:
>Hello all:
>
>I have decided to try measuring the crankshaft end float on my TR6. I
>purchased a magnetic mount and a dial gauge. However, a question comes
>to mind: I have the Gunst throw-out bearing setup (working nicely BTW).
>It has a permanent pre-load given by a spring. Will this cause the crank
>to shift the "zero" position that I obtain by pushing the crank pulley
>rear-ward? Will I need an assistant to keep pressure on the pulley to
>defeat the spring, or is friction too high for this to account for much?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Mark

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 10 22:31:24 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 21:31:24 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A gas tank vent pipe question
In-Reply-To: <2983CDFCDEE3436D86B86CB5EF563584@Dell>
Message-ID: <20090811043123834.BZSP15914@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Is there any type of check valve that is supposed to be in the banjo
> fitting
> on the TR3A gas tank vent pipe? Or is there supposed to be something
> inside
> the tank to prevent gas from pouring out on corners?

To the best of my knowledge, no.

> Anyone else have this problem and come up with a
> cure?

My solution was to simply cap off the vent line (or you could remove it and
put a short plain bolt and washer in the hole).  My car had a small vent
hole in the fuel cap (through the inner plate that actually covers the
opening to the tank); but if not, it would be easy enough to add one.

Randall

From tom628 at verizon.net  Mon Aug 10 22:39:53 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 00:39:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
References: <ce9.5c7057f5.37b1bb54@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1F15D07265F54885AFE146AB0D6C1739@Toms>

Harry:  FWIW, I added a 3rd choke cable, with the knob mounted just to the 
right of the plinth. ( I can't believe that's a word).
Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Harrymague at aol.com>
To: <supertr6 at earthlink.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup


> Driveability and maintenance:  No problems The alignment took some  doing.
> I am not at home presently, but in Boston.  I get home  tonite.  Tomorrow
> I'll try and send a couple of pictures of how I modified  part of the 
> linkage
> to work smoother.  I sent these to goodparts, but  didn't hear anything
> back.  I would make sure the intake head is  flush.  Will save some of the
> alignment problems.  I shaved the  gaskets between the head and intakes
> manifolds to get a better alignment.   Problem was probably in my head, 
> but not
> sure.  Just took a lot of trial  and error.  One thing really don't like, 
> but
> can't do anything about is the  choke cable.  Only goes to two of the 
> carbs.
> When it is cold, my car  really doesn't like it!!!!  Once it is warm, big
> improvement in idle and  midrange.  I really don't push the top end.  The 
> fuel
> line mod from  goodparts is great, big plus.  Tuning is easy as with two
> carbs.  I'll  try and send those photos tomorrow.  Good Luck   Harry
>
>
> In a message dated 8/10/2009 1:52:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> supertr6 at earthlink.net writes:
>
> Harry,
>
> Thanks.  Any issues with the parts?  Setup  (other than alignment)?
> Driveability?   Maintenance?
>
> Joe
>
> _Harrymague at aol.com_ (mailto:Harrymague at aol.com)  wrote:
> Hi Joe, I upgraded to the triple setup last summer.  Had a few  alignment
> problems, but easily solveable.  Ask me any questions.   Harry Mague,
> Beavercreek Ohio
>
>
> In a message dated 8/9/2009 8:25:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> _supertr6 at earthlink.net_ (mailto:supertr6 at earthlink.net)   writes:
>
> Howdy all,
>
> Does anyone have experience with Good Parts  Triple ZS setup?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe
>
> 72  TR6
> This  list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/)
>
>
> _Triumphs at autox.team.net_ (mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net)
> _http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs_
> (http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs)
>
> You  are subscribed as _harrymague at aol.com_ (mailto:harrymague at aol.com)
>
> _http://www.team.net/archive_ (http://www.team.net/archive)
>
>
>
>
> ____________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Tue Aug 11 00:22:15 2009
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2009 23:22:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A gas tank vent pipe question
References: <20090811043123834.BZSP15914@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <855EA1D598F64D6CA0D698FAF6B4CC8F@Dell>

Thanks Randall, that's probably the easiest way to go. I was thinking in 
terms of a check valve in the line or something.  The cap is not vented at 
the moment.

Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 9:31 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A gas tank vent pipe question


>> Is there any type of check valve that is supposed to be in the banjo
>> fitting
>> on the TR3A gas tank vent pipe? Or is there supposed to be something
>> inside
>> the tank to prevent gas from pouring out on corners?
>
> To the best of my knowledge, no.
>
>> Anyone else have this problem and come up with a
>> cure?
>
> My solution was to simply cap off the vent line (or you could remove it 
> and
> put a short plain bolt and washer in the hole).  My car had a small vent
> hole in the fuel cap (through the inner plate that actually covers the
> opening to the tank); but if not, it would be easy enough to add one.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue Aug 11 04:30:18 2009
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 06:30:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A gas tank vent pipe question
References: <2983CDFCDEE3436D86B86CB5EF563584@Dell>
Message-ID: <008001ca1a6e$ba51acc0$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Just a side note. Several of our club members had experienced a gas smell in 
their garages. The culprit was the vent tube. I installed a brass valve 
inline with the vent tube (small one) and mounted it on the boot panel. When 
I park in the garage I can shut off the open vent tube and prevent the 
gasoline smell in the garage.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kinderlehrer" <Kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 10:07 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3A gas tank vent pipe question


> Is there any type of check valve that is supposed to be in the banjo 
> fitting
> on the TR3A gas tank vent pipe? Or is there supposed to be something 
> inside
> the tank to prevent gas from pouring out on corners? I am tired of being
> relegated to the back of the pack, not to mention the cost of the gasoline 
> I'm
> leaving on the street. Anyone else have this problem and come up with a 
> cure?
> The tank is relatively new and in good condition.
> Thanks,
> Bob

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Tue Aug 11 05:47:55 2009
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 12:47:55 +0100
Subject: [TR] Soft Top Advice
Message-ID: <1249991275.4a815a6b109b1@mymail.tcd.ie>

At the stage where I need to purchase a soft top for the TR2, any advice or
recommendations on suppliers. What material should I choose? is Everflex
worth
the extra? etc.
Regards
John


John Gillis
Senior Conservator

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Aug 11 06:20:00 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 07:20:00 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Soft Top Advice
Message-ID: <787757736.3034090.1249993200558.JavaMail.root@vms229.mailsrvcs.net>

John,

I waited for the best sale I could get, and I purchased:  http://www.zeni.net/trf/specials6.16/18.php

The total price was $505, but it is top quality, looks exactly like the original top on the outside and inside.  This is for a 72 TR6, I have not installed it yet.

Craig

On Aug 11, 2009, John Gillis <jgillis at tcd.ie> wrote: 

At the stage where I need to purchase a soft top for the TR2, any advice or
recommendations on suppliers. What material should I choose? is Everflex
worth
the extra? etc.
Regards
John


John Gillis
Senior Conservator
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From daveg at online.no  Tue Aug 11 09:08:19 2009
From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 17:08:19 +0200
Subject: [TR] Soft Top Advice
In-Reply-To: <1249991275.4a815a6b109b1@mymail.tcd.ie>
References: <1249991275.4a815a6b109b1@mymail.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <728B9750-18B0-4A1F-AB88-878582E99069@online.no>

Hello John,

If you are in Ireland you might consider John Skinner. I bought my tr3  
upholstery from him and was very happy. Price was ok too. His site is
http://www.john-skinner.co.uk/

all the best
DAve




On 11 Aug 2009, at 13:47, John Gillis wrote:

> At the stage where I need to purchase a soft top for the TR2, any  
> advice or
> recommendations on suppliers. What material should I choose? is  
> Everflex
> worth
> the extra? etc.
> Regards
> John
>
>
> John Gillis
> Senior Conservator
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>

David Griffiths
Oslo
Norway
daveg at online.no

From auprichard at comcast.net  Tue Aug 11 10:35:31 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 16:35:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Search
In-Reply-To: <88896D9795A348D083BB813D11DB7E5F@chuck>
Message-ID: <671630074.6151331250008531683.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Let me check with him first.B  I'll get back to you.



Andrew
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck White" <triumph.driver at gmail.com>
To: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 8:47:19 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: RE: [TR] Search

Would you please share it with the list? B I might have a use for his contact
info in the future.

Thanks!

Chuck White
Xenia, OH
1965 TR4A IRS
1970 GT6+

-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 8:10 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Search

Many, many thanks to those who replied. B The guy is Jeff Slaton, and I now
have his contact information.

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 11:34 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Search

A few years ago, I bought a fabricated panel for my TR3 on eBay. B The piece
was a repair panel for the rear apron and included a lower lip for the spare
tire opening. B 

The guy turned out to be a high school teacher in Kentucky who made panels
like these in his spare time.

I have been approached by a friend who is looking for the same repair panel
for his restoration project and I have lost the contact information. B Does
anyone know the person in KY, or where my friend could get what he's looking
for? Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

From jwalker at mainet.com  Tue Aug 11 11:18:26 2009
From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 13:18:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 362
Message-ID: <4A816FA2020000EF00003994@smtp.mainet.com>

Re: Lone Pine to Susanville

What you saw was indeed the annual Reno/Sparks "Hot August Nights" week long
event. This year there were some 6000 Rods, Customs, and Restorations
registered.I believe that cars must be late 1970's or earlier. Unfortunately,
there are very few LBC's tho there are normally lots of Cobra's. Saw a big
Healy, and a JAG sedan this year, but I didn't get around to all the lots. The
waiting list to exhibit is quite long, and I am hoping to put TS68368 on the
list by spring. Its a really, really big show, I think the largest in the
country.

John Walker
TR-3B TS68368


Message: 9
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 19:51:22 -0400
From: <jimbpps at cox.net>
Subject: [TR] My TR Tour Day 2
To: members at dctra.org, ttscc at yahoo.com, triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <20090807195122.NLZBX.8001.imail at fed1rmwml39>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Lone Pine to Susanville:

Ihave to apologize for the delay for Day 2 and 3. They of courseoccurred in
the correct chronological order, but unfortunately, myinternet access was not
quite working just right and/or the laptop hadissues, take your pick as both
happened at different times. But I thinkI know the 'work arounds' now so
hopefully I will be a little moreon-time!

We keft Lone Pine at around 8:00 AM, it was a beautifulday about 70 degrees,
with great sun, a few clouds and Mt. McKinley insharp relief against the blue
sky.

As we drove north on 395 wewould occasionally see hot rods and custom cars.
Some were being towedand some were, like our cars, being driven. When we got
to Reno wepassed a casino with a very large parking lot absolutely chock full
ofstreet rods, exotic custom cars, numerous pop-up tents, etc. Laterafter we
stopped at a rest stop, John, told me that gatering must havebeen the 'Hot
August Nights' car show! John, said if he had beenthinking when he made the
reservations he would have set it up so wecould have stayed in Reno and gone
to the car show! He was also surethat he could 'double the clubs money' if we
would have stopped inReno!! As we drove north of Reno we continued to see more
exotic customcars on their way south, probably on their way to 'Hot August
Nights'too.

North of Lone Pine 395 climbs to some 8100 feet, it waschilly enough that at
one our stops I had to move a piece of my luggagein the passengers side so
that I could roll up the passengers window asI was too cold to be comfortable.
Later that afternoon I turned on theheater as it was just plain cold!

In Susanville we arrived to a'sold-out' motel, It was full of fire fighters!
The very harriedwaitress said that there were over 100 fire fighters at
thatmotel/restaurant complex alone. There were supposedly a large bunch
offorrest fires actively burning in the area.

Tomorrow, on to Redmond with a stop at Crater Lake!

Jim

From banjonut at verizon.net  Tue Aug 11 14:04:37 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (banjonut at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 15:04:37 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR....day2
Message-ID: <1043709910.3385941.1250021077219.JavaMail.root@vms182.mailsrvcs.net>

/s5TlgI: Permission denied

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Aug 11 16:22:50 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 18:22:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Shaft Bushings
References: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net><9332D64E08BB46089943E3A51FEFC4FD@BOBSNEWPC><556D8C1E93BC427D84F41CAFB5DC14C7@DCH6RFC1><4DA7618CBACF458B86BE96DAB7C9CECF@DCH6RFC1>
	<88896D9795A348D083BB813D11DB7E5F@chuck>
Message-ID: <AEE4681340354507AC49589087C7ABF1@Edscomputer>

List,

Wasn't there someone making a brass/bronze bush for the TR250/TR6 pedal 
shaft to replace the nylons originals that are so difficult (read: 
impossible) to install? Info appreciated and thanks in advance.

Ed Woods 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Tue Aug 11 16:25:22 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 22:25:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Soft Top Advice
In-Reply-To: <1249991275.4a815a6b109b1@mymail.tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <363987562.2213151250029522545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>What material should I choose?



I wound up going with TRF's Sunfast material.B  Love it.B  Doesn't shrink,
maintains color.B  I use the tonneau more than the top.B 



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From banni2001 at comcast.net  Tue Aug 11 19:50:21 2009
From: banni2001 at comcast.net (Butch Tucker)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 21:50:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
In-Reply-To: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>
References: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <010201ca1aef$4116ce40$c3446ac0$@net>

I have an brand new triple Carb Goodparts Stromberg 175 cd setup for sale. I
decided to use fuel injection. Have the  filters and linkage also. Make me a
offer!!!!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 12:33 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup

Howdy all,

Does anyone have experience with Good Parts Triple ZS setup? 

Thanks,

Joe

72 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as banni2001 at comcast.net

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From goh62agan at verizon.net  Tue Aug 11 20:59:47 2009
From: goh62agan at verizon.net (Gary O'Hagan)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 22:59:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 steel wheel upgrade to wider wheel
Message-ID: <9845dda1d3a5884e3e043b97870f694f@verizon.net>

List,
As I'm putting this car back together, I'm thinking that I want  some 
wheels that will give me some better road gripping.  Panasports 15x5.5 
seem to be a pretty popular choice.  But I've seen some 16x7 Rota RB 
wheels  on eBay that look similar at a lot better price.  So I'm asking 
the List for any thoughts or recommendations.  I'd also like to know if 
I need any spacers or other adaptation to swap out the wheels.
Thanks,
Gary O

From acekraut at suscom-maine.net  Tue Aug 11 21:13:27 2009
From: acekraut at suscom-maine.net (AC)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 23:13:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup
In-Reply-To: <010201ca1aef$4116ce40$c3446ac0$@net>
References: <4A7DA8A7.2030600@earthlink.net>
	<010201ca1aef$4116ce40$c3446ac0$@net>
Message-ID: <E7D518D16DE148E6B6BC2D341A9463C3@company2a887aa>

Butch,

You might want to place your triple set-up on the 6-pack.org site.  Which
fuel injection set-up are you going to use?

Aaron

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Butch Tucker
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 9:50 PM
To: 'Joe Burlein'; 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup

I have an brand new triple Carb Goodparts Stromberg 175 cd setup for sale. I
decided to use fuel injection. Have the  filters and linkage also. Make me a
offer!!!!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 12:33 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Good Parts Triple Setup

Howdy all,

Does anyone have experience with Good Parts Triple ZS setup? 

Thanks,

Joe

72 TR6

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Tue Aug 11 21:58:33 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 23:58:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] some rather poor video of the 2009 Gathering
Message-ID: <6fa72a770908112058o1d4c2a76nd0640ead0f4758e3@mail.gmail.com>

I put the videos I shot at the Gathering up on youtube.   I thought I
lesiurely strolled through the grounds, but the videos look like I ran.

For what it's worth here is where they are:

http://www.youtube.com/user/christopizza

I'll work on my camera skills for next year,  I promise!!!

Chris
63 TR4
54 TR2

From ewellenstein at itol.com  Tue Aug 11 22:28:38 2009
From: ewellenstein at itol.com (Gene and Barb Wellenstein)
Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 23:28:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- trf summer party
In-Reply-To: <cd3.5c842d06.37b01b7d@aol.com>
References: <cd3.5c842d06.37b01b7d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090812042905.EC2F7D04F5@mail.itol.com>

Larry,
Myself and my 9 yr old nephew attended our first Summer Party this 
year and it was a blast. We went in my 1959 TR3A starting from Green 
Bay, WI. I have no past experience but I thought there were many very 
nice looking TR3's in the crowd.Some were just gorgeous and I can't 
imagine what it requires to keep them looking so good. Some thoughts:
TRF's people were wonderful. When we first arrived John Swauger 
greeted us and asked where our travels had started. When I told him 
Green Bay he looked at my nephew and said "so you must be Henry". The 
nephew was amazed that John would know his name with all the other 
people there.
The BB gun shoot was supervised by, I believe, the son of Charles 
Runyon. He was patient beyond belief in handling all the kids, many 
of whom had never shot a BB gun. This seems like such a small item in 
the scheme of the Summer Party but I know it is one event that Henry 
will remember for a long time. It was quite a thrill for him.
So many people that aren't employees of TRF help out with the races 
and other events. I found it amazing that so many people would help 
and never really be recognized. What quality individuals.
Our TR3A had never been more than 100 miles from Green Bay and on 
this trip we put on over 1600 miles with no problems of note. We 
drove  from the Summer Party to Milwaukee in one day (Sunday) and ran 
into a viscous rain storm in Muskegon, MI. There was a lightning 
strike that hit a tree about 20 feet from the car while we were 
driving. This caused Henry to scream like a little girl and I 
screamed like a little girl with her hair on fire. The TR3A ran all 
day Sunday with many hours at 3800-3900 rpm (no overdrive) with no 
complaints and holding 70 psig oil pressure and 170-185 on the water 
temp. It sure is an impressive little engine. I could write 
paragraphs on the Summer Party but I will spare you. Suffice to say 
when we arrived home at 2:00 a.m. on Monday morning Henry told his 
Mom that "if you want a little adventure drive your Toyota. If you 
want a BIG adventure drive a Triumph". That summed up the trip.

Gene Wellenstein




At 07:30 AM 8/9/2009, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
>list, i could not make the trf summer party due to health reasons. how was
>the party? since i am a tr3 bug, can anyone give me a report on the trs's
>scene.. hope you all, 3's, 4's, 6's and all others had a blast. regards,
>larry schwartz
>_______________________________________________


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Aug 12 07:10:52 2009
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:10:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] Yellow TR6 Spotted
Message-ID: <354a1780908120610n6aa7c90dm45dbbb341fd17fbc@mail.gmail.com>

Good morning,

A friend spotted a yellow TR6 being trailered westbound on the Indiana Toll
Road Sunday, behind a conversion van. I was wondering if it was anyone on
this list?

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com  Wed Aug 12 08:36:17 2009
From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:36:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Hub (disk wheel)
Message-ID: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC948312D4BE26@emss02m11.us.lmco.com>

All:

 

Could anyone please let me know if the TR6 front hub assembly (for disk
wheels) includes a grease fitting?

 

Thanks in advance for the information.

 

Lee

From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com  Wed Aug 12 08:41:04 2009
From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:41:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Another TR6 front hub question
Message-ID: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC948312D4BE57@emss02m11.us.lmco.com>

All:

 

Are there any other vehicles (250 or TR4) that use the TR6 front hub for
disc wheels (114284)?

 

Once again thanks in advance for the information.

Lee

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Aug 12 09:00:49 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:00:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing
Message-ID: <776988.97978.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I  have my TR6 in the paint shop and am repainting the windshield frame
at the same time. I have the glass out of the frame. It is the original glass
(1974) with no real pitting or rock chips. I was thinking of polishing the
glass while it is out and re-using it. I like the Safevue label on it. Does
anyone have any experience with glass polishing? It seems like if I take it to
a glass shop that they'll charge so much that it'll be easier to just buy new
glass. I was thinking that somewhere there is a polishing kit that wouldn't be
too much money.

     Bill in Tehachapi

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Wed Aug 12 09:03:42 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:03:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] More TR6 Windshield Questions
Message-ID: <83178.40452.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     Are TR6 black windshield frames a special black color or are they just
plain gloss black? What about the black rear panel between the tail lights?
     Under the aluminum cap on top of the windscreen there was some semi-hard
support putty. What do you replace that with? I was thinking about plumbers
putty (they look about  the same), but maybe there is something specific.
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 12 09:46:57 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:46:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Another TR6 front hub question
In-Reply-To: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC948312D4BE57@emss02m11.us.lmco.com>
Message-ID: <20090812154657934.MREI22765@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Are there any other vehicles (250 or TR4) that use the TR6 front hub for
> disc wheels (114284)?

Yup, same hub for late TR3 (with front disc brakes) through TR6.  

Note that the hub itself is the same for wire wheels as well; only the studs
are different (114283).  The brake discs also changed early in TR4
production (some TR3B had the later discs as well, I think).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 12 09:50:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 08:50:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Front Hub (disk wheel)
In-Reply-To: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC948312D4BE26@emss02m11.us.lmco.com>
Message-ID: <20090812155015012.XXFQ15914@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Could anyone please let me know if the TR6 front hub assembly (for disk
> wheels) includes a grease fitting?

It does not.  To lube the wheel bearings, you remove, clean, inspect and
repack them.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 12 10:37:54 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 12:37:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 steel wheel upgrade to wider wheel
In-Reply-To: <9845dda1d3a5884e3e043b97870f694f@verizon.net>
References: <9845dda1d3a5884e3e043b97870f694f@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <200908121237.55969.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 11 August 2009 10:59:47 pm Gary O'Hagan wrote:
> List,
> As I'm putting this car back together, I'm thinking that I want  some
> wheels that will give me some better road gripping.  Panasports 15x5.5
> seem to be a pretty popular choice.  But I've seen some 16x7 Rota RB
> wheels  on eBay that look similar at a lot better price.  So I'm asking
> the List for any thoughts or recommendations.  I'd also like to know if
> I need any spacers or other adaptation to swap out the wheels.
> Thanks,
> Gary O
Gary,

I got a set of Superlites 15/6 for my 72 TR6 project and if I had the extra $ 
I would get the same set for my TR3.

I am planning on using a tire like 205/65/R15 for the 6.

I really like the Superlites and the cost was < 180 per rim (got them on sale 
last winter) They came with Triumph decals + valve stems.

The Panasports are just to expensive for me.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 12 10:42:10 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 12:42:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Shaft Bushings
In-Reply-To: <AEE4681340354507AC49589087C7ABF1@Edscomputer>
References: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<88896D9795A348D083BB813D11DB7E5F@chuck>
	<AEE4681340354507AC49589087C7ABF1@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <200908121242.11075.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 11 August 2009 06:22:50 pm Ed Woods wrote:
> List,
>
> Wasn't there someone making a brass/bronze bush for the TR250/TR6 pedal
> shaft to replace the nylons originals that are so difficult (read:
> impossible) to install? Info appreciated and thanks in advance.
>
> Ed Woods
Ed,

Art Lipp make a kit for the 6 with instructions etc. The bushings not brass 
but I am told it is easy to install.

Bob Danielson has a link on his 6 web page on the install.

My kit is still in the box as it wont be installed until early next year.

Bob

From staffel at comcast.net  Wed Aug 12 10:47:26 2009
From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 16:47:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] Gas smell in garage
Message-ID: <1521533602-1250095902-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-750591392-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Also had that with my TR4, in trunk and Garage! Fix was simple-put folded saran wrap under gas cap as I closed it- has worked for years now! Problem is the 'seal' on the new in 2000 Moss cap is tight enuf to keep liquid in, but not for 'vapors'! Don't have a vent on my tank (original tank) at all!
Sherman D Taffel
Columbia MD
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 12 11:30:58 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 13:30:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] More TR6 Windshield Questions
In-Reply-To: <83178.40452.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <83178.40452.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200908121330.59201.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 12 August 2009 11:03:42 am William Brewer wrote:
>      Are TR6 black windshield frames a special black color or are they just
> plain gloss black? What about the black rear panel between the tail lights?
>      Under the aluminum cap on top of the windscreen there was some
> semi-hard support putty. What do you replace that with? I was thinking
> about plumbers putty (they look about  the same), but maybe there is
> something specific. TIA,
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
Bill,

I painted mine a sort of flat black using DuPont Satin Black Item: A-5099S

The name on the can is 1K Bumper & Trim Black

Not flat not glossy.

I also plan on using the same paint for behind the grill and on the rear apron 
above the bumper.

I got the paint somewhere on the Web.

Got 2 cans for about 7 bucks a can.

Frame came out nice.

Now as far as polishing the glass. I tried this with my TR4 with a kit from 
Eastwood and ended up with a totally ruined glass. Replaced it with a new one 
from TRF.

Eventhough I had a decent piece for the 6 project, I decided to have new glass 
installed as well


Including postage from TRF the cost was about 200$ + 80 for a local company to 
install + install the chrome bead.

I would go with new glass. Cost is not that bad and nothing is better on a 
sunny day than having a no glare windshield.

Bob

From pboldtrix at juno.com  Wed Aug 12 12:40:49 2009
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 18:40:49 GMT
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing
Message-ID: <20090812.144049.1514.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>

Before getting into the glass polishing project (which is fraught with damage
possibilities due to heat build up when polishing)  try cleaning your
windshield with a sponge and "Soft Scrub" (made by Chlorox - your wife
probably already has it in the kitchen).  Use moderate pressure in a circular
motion.  Soft Scrub has a very mild abrasive in it which really polishes off
mild scratches and years of discloloration.  Rinse very thoroughly with lots
of water and dry.  You'll be amazed at the results.
Phil Bacon 72 TR6, 67 MGBGT

---------- Original Message ----------
From: William Brewer wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing

    I  have my TR6 in the paint shop and am repainting the windshield frame
at the same time. I have the glass out of the frame. It is the original glass
(1974) with no real pitting or rock chips. I was thinking of polishing the
glass while it is out and re-using it. I like the Safevue label on it. Does
anyone have any experience with glass polishing? It seems like if I take it
to
a glass shop that they'll charge so much that it'll be easier to just buy new
glass. I was thinking that somewhere there is a polishing kit that wouldn't
be
too much money.

    Bill in Tehachapi
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

____________________________________________________________
Easy-to-use, advanced features, flexible phone systems.  Click here for more
info.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsO1tTi4Fxm3aWJWgKfphDnztt0j
qSbjj3B9Yawp6kuNpGHZM1o500/

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Aug 12 12:46:02 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 14:46:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Pedal Shaft Bushings
In-Reply-To: <200908121242.11075.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <13314161.1249909498257.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net><88896D9795A348D083BB813D11DB7E5F@chuck><AEE4681340354507AC49589087C7ABF1@Edscomputer>
	<200908121242.11075.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <93E379CD2CB149C1BED4B750412B2349@BOBSNEWPC>

Art Lipp makes a kit using Delrin and it's very easy to install. You can see
it here  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm

Guys have also done with them brass bushings as I did at first but I like
the idea of Art's all in one kit better. 

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:42 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Pedal Shaft Bushings

On Tuesday 11 August 2009 06:22:50 pm Ed Woods wrote:
> List,
>
> Wasn't there someone making a brass/bronze bush for the TR250/TR6 
> pedal shaft to replace the nylons originals that are so difficult (read:
> impossible) to install? Info appreciated and thanks in advance.
>
> Ed Woods
Ed,

Art Lipp make a kit for the 6 with instructions etc. The bushings not brass
but I am told it is easy to install.

Bob Danielson has a link on his 6 web page on the install.

My kit is still in the box as it wont be installed until early next year.

Bob
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Aug 12 13:25:17 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 13:25:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing
In-Reply-To: <20090812.144049.1514.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090812.144049.1514.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <142107B731B2464384A7B2BC4A8EDAF7@bboffice>

Also, very handy for cleaning the buildup outside of the wiper sweep on the
family car as well.  I think the formula I heard was vinegar and 5x0 (00000)
steel wool, same process.
B

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"



 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Phil Bacon
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:41 PM
To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Glass Polishing

Before getting into the glass polishing project (which is fraught with
damage possibilities due to heat build up when polishing)  try cleaning your
windshield with a sponge and "Soft Scrub" (made by Chlorox - your wife
probably already has it in the kitchen).  Use moderate pressure in a
circular motion.  Soft Scrub has a very mild abrasive in it which really
polishes off mild scratches and years of discloloration.  Rinse very
thoroughly with lots of water and dry.  You'll be amazed at the results.
Phil Bacon 72 TR6, 67 MGBGT

---------- Original Message ----------
From: William Brewer wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing

    I  have my TR6 in the paint shop and am repainting the windshield frame
at the same time. I have the glass out of the frame. It is the original
glass
(1974) with no real pitting or rock chips. I was thinking of polishing the
glass while it is out and re-using it. I like the Safevue label on it. Does
anyone have any experience with glass polishing? It seems like if I take it
to a glass shop that they'll charge so much that it'll be easier to just buy
new glass. I was thinking that somewhere there is a polishing kit that
wouldn't be too much money.

    Bill in Tehachapi
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

____________________________________________________________
Easy-to-use, advanced features, flexible phone systems.  Click here for more
info.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsO1tTi4Fxm3aWJWgKfphDnztt0
j
qSbjj3B9Yawp6kuNpGHZM1o500/
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Aug 12 13:51:42 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 19:51:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Gas smell in garage
In-Reply-To: <1521533602-1250095902-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-750591392-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <1089724593.11873661250106702010.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Eh?  Our TR4 has a separate vent tube.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- staffel at comcast.net wrote:

> From: staffel at comcast.net
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 11:47:26 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: [TR] Gas smell in garage
>
> Also had that with my TR4, in trunk and Garage! Fix was simple-put
> folded saran wrap under gas cap as I closed it- has worked for years
> now! Problem is the 'seal' on the new in 2000 Moss cap is tight enuf
> to keep liquid in, but not for 'vapors'! Don't have a vent on my tank
> (original tank) at all!
> Sherman D Taffel
> Columbia MD
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 12 13:59:44 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 12:59:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing
In-Reply-To: <20090812.144049.1514.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20090812.144049.1514.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <96F2D0DC30B948E3A0B761D99BFAFADE@jdnet.deere.com>

> try cleaning your
> windshield with a sponge and "Soft Scrub"

Interesting, I didn't know that Soft Scrub was safe for glass.  Most kitchen
cleansers are not.

Note that the Soft Scrub web site says to "use sparingly and rub gently".
http://www.softscrub.com/about-softscrub/FAQ

-- Randall 

From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Aug 12 15:10:58 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 16:10:58 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR- trf summer party
References: <cd3.5c842d06.37b01b7d@aol.com>
	<20090812042905.EC2F7D04F5@mail.itol.com>
Message-ID: <A151EEED71FF4E2284B3494DC6A65122@trigeni.com>

Gene:

What a great story and what a great adventure for the nephew.  He will never 
forget it and maybe he will join the fraternity (and sorority) one day.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gene and Barb Wellenstein" <ewellenstein at itol.com>
To: <L1J1S at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 2009 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- trf summer party


> Larry,
> Myself and my 9 yr old nephew attended our first Summer Party this
> year and it was a blast. We went in my 1959 TR3A starting from Green
> Bay, WI. I have no past experience but I thought there were many very
> nice looking TR3's in the crowd.Some were just gorgeous and I can't
> imagine what it requires to keep them looking so good. Some thoughts:
> TRF's people were wonderful. When we first arrived John Swauger
> greeted us and asked where our travels had started. When I told him
> Green Bay he looked at my nephew and said "so you must be Henry". The
> nephew was amazed that John would know his name with all the other
> people there.
> The BB gun shoot was supervised by, I believe, the son of Charles
> Runyon. He was patient beyond belief in handling all the kids, many
> of whom had never shot a BB gun. This seems like such a small item in
> the scheme of the Summer Party but I know it is one event that Henry
> will remember for a long time. It was quite a thrill for him.
> So many people that aren't employees of TRF help out with the races
> and other events. I found it amazing that so many people would help
> and never really be recognized. What quality individuals.
> Our TR3A had never been more than 100 miles from Green Bay and on
> this trip we put on over 1600 miles with no problems of note. We
> drove  from the Summer Party to Milwaukee in one day (Sunday) and ran
> into a viscous rain storm in Muskegon, MI. There was a lightning
> strike that hit a tree about 20 feet from the car while we were
> driving. This caused Henry to scream like a little girl and I
> screamed like a little girl with her hair on fire. The TR3A ran all
> day Sunday with many hours at 3800-3900 rpm (no overdrive) with no
> complaints and holding 70 psig oil pressure and 170-185 on the water
> temp. It sure is an impressive little engine. I could write
> paragraphs on the Summer Party but I will spare you. Suffice to say
> when we arrived home at 2:00 a.m. on Monday morning Henry told his
> Mom that "if you want a little adventure drive your Toyota. If you
> want a BIG adventure drive a Triumph". That summed up the trip.
>
> Gene Wellenstein

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 12 15:17:42 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 14:17:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] mild cam
Message-ID: <352174.46524.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

an update on tr-6 overhauled with mild cam........from ted schumaker,
Pandora.  Just heard from mechanic who knows tuning strombergs.  He stated the
cam i have is to big to idle smoothly.  Can't get enough vacuum to idle
smooth.  I have around 10 lbs. and need up towards 19.  He's saying no way to
get it to idle.  Power comes on smooth at around 2,000 rpm on up.. 
anyway........maybe its just me.  I have to learn how to improve my driving
skills .........taking off  from idle.  Just an update.......

I really do
trust this mechanic.  Has had years of experience.

thanks

gary n.

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Aug 12 15:19:24 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 15:19:24 -0600
Subject: [TR] more TR6 windshield questions- Now color behind grill?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1250100002.14015.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1250100002.14015.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0AFB0096-D887-4F6B-A36C-A02DDBEE18B0@telus.net>

What is the correct behind grill color on a TR6?  Is it black or body  
color?




On 12-Aug-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
> I also plan on using the same paint for behind the grill and on the  
> rear apron
> above the bumper.

From emanteno at gmail.com  Wed Aug 12 15:53:21 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 16:53:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] mild cam
In-Reply-To: <352174.46524.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <352174.46524.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <354a1780908121453v77c33bdep3083c32ec3add017@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Aug 12, 2009 at 4:17 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> an update on tr-6 overhauled with mild cam........from ted schumaker,
> Pandora.  Just heard from mechanic who knows tuning strombergs.  He stated
> the
> cam i have is to big to idle smoothly.  Can't get enough vacuum to idle
> smooth.  I have around 10 lbs. and need up towards 19.  He's saying no way
> to
> get it to idle.  Power comes on smooth at around 2,000 rpm on up..
> anyway........maybe its just me.  I have to learn how to improve my driving
> skills .........taking off  from idle.  Just an update.......



Gary,

You don't go to an aftermarket cam so the car can idle nicely. You do it so
you can go ripping down the road. I don't know what you are trying to idle
at, but you should look to set it closer to 1000 rpm, deal with a bit of
lumpiness, and then FLOOR IT and enjoy.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U Isky Z-19 since 1985
Highland Park, IL

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Aug 12 16:19:36 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 18:19:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] more TR6 windshield questions- Now color behind grill?
In-Reply-To: <0AFB0096-D887-4F6B-A36C-A02DDBEE18B0@telus.net>
References: <mailman.2.1250100002.14015.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<0AFB0096-D887-4F6B-A36C-A02DDBEE18B0@telus.net>
Message-ID: <200908121819.37480.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 12 August 2009 05:19:24 pm Don Spence wrote:
> What is the correct behind grill color on a TR6?  Is it black or body
> color?
Don,

The 6 pack forum states that the correct color is black, the same as the rear 
apron.

That is my plan for my 72 project.

But in many of the cars I have viewed since I started this restoration in Sept 
of 08, the majority of the front grill areas were body color.

Bob

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Wed Aug 12 17:08:20 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 16:08:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] mild cam
In-Reply-To: <354a1780908121453v77c33bdep3083c32ec3add017@mail.gmail.com>
References: <352174.46524.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<354a1780908121453v77c33bdep3083c32ec3add017@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <835125.12852.qm@web59703.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Gees, I may be in for a surprise myself.  Had a mild cam installed in the
engine as part of a partial restoration project.  Was told by the mechanic
that the aftermarket cam should not affect idle too much....I thought cam
gradations of performance ran: stock, mild, street, and hot.  If that's true,
a mild cam just isn't that much different from stock, at least not enough to
go from 500 rpm idle to 1000 rpm idle.... I don't have the car back yet, but
I'm hoping I don't have to idle at 1000 or more.
Pat
TR4A '67
________________________________
From: Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com>
To: Gary
Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday,
August 12, 2009 2:53:21 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] mild cam

On Wed, Aug 12, 2009 at
4:17 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> an update on tr-6
overhauled with mild cam........from ted schumaker,
> Pandora.  Just heard
from mechanic who knows tuning strombergs.  He stated
> the
> cam i have is to
big to idle smoothly.  Can't get enough vacuum to idle
> smooth.  I have
around 10 lbs. and need up towards 19.  He's saying no way
> to
> get it to
idle.  Power comes on smooth at around 2,000 rpm on up..
> anyway........maybe
its just me.  I have to learn how to improve my driving
> skills
..........taking off  from idle.  Just an update.......



Gary,

You don't go
to an aftermarket cam so the car can idle nicely. You do it so
you can go
ripping down the road. I don't know what you are trying to idle
at, but you
should look to set it closer to 1000 rpm, deal with a bit of
lumpiness, and
then FLOOR IT and enjoy.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U Isky Z-19 since 1985
Highland Park, IL
_______________________________________________

Support
Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the
Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Aug 12 17:38:00 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 19:38:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 steel wheel upgrade to wider wheel
References: <9845dda1d3a5884e3e043b97870f694f@verizon.net>
	<200908121237.55969.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <BDCC4DA96F504369AAA8F011A2F753A4@DCS78M81>

Sorry it took so long to get back to you.
I've got 165X65X15 on Panasports on my TR4.
I've got a set on the TR3 also and they are great. The 4 is down for a 
rebuild, but I won't change the wheels.
Tom

Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 steel wheel upgrade to wider wheel


> On Tuesday 11 August 2009 10:59:47 pm Gary O'Hagan wrote:
>> List,
>> As I'm putting this car back together, I'm thinking that I want  some
>> wheels that will give me some better road gripping.  Panasports 15x5.5
>> seem to be a pretty popular choice.  But I've seen some 16x7 Rota RB
>> wheels  on eBay that look similar at a lot better price.  So I'm asking
>> the List for any thoughts or recommendations.  I'd also like to know if
>> I need any spacers or other adaptation to swap out the wheels.
>> Thanks,
>> Gary O
> Gary,

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Aug 12 18:02:12 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 20:02:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR- trf summer party
In-Reply-To: <20090812042905.EC2F7D04F5@mail.itol.com>
References: <cd3.5c842d06.37b01b7d@aol.com>
	<20090812042905.EC2F7D04F5@mail.itol.com>
Message-ID: <DB464FB69A254E44B5AF379D4F6861A6@CarlPC>

Sounds like the next generation has been 'hooked'.  Great story.

For my part - I have been working on my TR since around the beginning of the 
Millennium.  My grandson was born in February of that year.    He has only 
seen pictures of the car (as it should be and it all apart) - lives too far 
away to see me working on it - not sure if he has ever been to a meet.

But if you ask him....   "That's my car when I get older" and to be honest - 
he is probably right - unless his mother gets over her Fiat affliction....
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gene and Barb Wellenstein" <ewellenstein at itol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:28 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR- trf summer party


> Larry,
> Myself and my 9 yr old nephew attended our first Summer Party this
> year and it was a blast. We went in my 1959 TR3A starting from Green
> Bay, WI. I have no past experience but I thought there were many very
> nice looking TR3's in the crowd.Some were just gorgeous and I can't
> imagine what it requires to keep them looking so good. Some thoughts:
snip

> paragraphs on the Summer Party but I will spare you. Suffice to say
> when we arrived home at 2:00 a.m. on Monday morning Henry told his
> Mom that "if you want a little adventure drive your Toyota. If you
> want a BIG adventure drive a Triumph". That summed up the trip.
>
> Gene Wellenstein

From trglory at verizon.net  Wed Aug 12 19:26:07 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 21:26:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] more TR6 windshield questions- Now color behind grill?
In-Reply-To: <200908121819.37480.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <F514E16EAF33419181CE0893B69C0E45@newbox>

I believe that body color is correct, but ask Darrell to be sure.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 6:20 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: Don Spence
Subject: Re: [TR] more TR6 windshield questions- Now color behind grill?

On Wednesday 12 August 2009 05:19:24 pm Don Spence wrote:
> What is the correct behind grill color on a TR6?  Is it black or body
> color?
Don,

The 6 pack forum states that the correct color is black, the same as the
rear 
apron.

That is my plan for my 72 project.

But in many of the cars I have viewed since I started this restoration in
Sept 
of 08, the majority of the front grill areas were body color.

Bob
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug 12 20:10:16 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 22:10:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing
In-Reply-To: <20090812.144049.1514.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <4A833DC8.4847.CFD4B44@localhost>

On 12 Aug 2009 at 18:40, Phil Bacon wrote:

>  try cleaning your
> windshield with a sponge and "Soft Scrub"

Interesting.  And I wonder if anyone has tried toothpaste, it being 
supposedly a carefully controlled fine abrasive.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Aug 12 20:11:17 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 21:11:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] mild cam
References: <352174.46524.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<354a1780908121453v77c33bdep3083c32ec3add017@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47C8570CEF2246CCBA65998DC450A0FF@trigeni.com>

YEAH!  What he said...

Mike

> You don't go to an aftermarket cam so the car can idle nicely. You do it 
> so
> you can go ripping down the road. I don't know what you are trying to idle
> at, but you should look to set it closer to 1000 rpm, deal with a bit of
> lumpiness, and then FLOOR IT and enjoy.
>
> Irv Korey

From aribert at c3net.net  Wed Aug 12 20:27:25 2009
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 22:27:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Need page scanned from TR6 or GTB Bentley manual
Message-ID: <4A837A0D.262C32E8@c3net.net>

I have temporarily misplaced the Bentley manual for my GT6.  I would
like to have a look at the engine water flow diagram (specifically the
flow of water into and out of the water pump housing.  If someone could
scan and e-mail the page or post the page to a photowebsite, I would be
grateful.  Thanks

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 12 20:42:23 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 22:42:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing
In-Reply-To: <4A833DC8.4847.CFD4B44@localhost>
References: <20090812.144049.1514.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>
	<4A833DC8.4847.CFD4B44@localhost>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W4862BA46F2567D3300AB6FBA050@phx.gbl>

I've used a product called "barkeepers friend" for years. Don't remember how I
found out about it but it works for me.

Marty

> From: jimmuller at rcn.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 22:10:16 -0400
> Subject: Re: [TR] Glass Polishing
>
> On 12 Aug 2009 at 18:40, Phil Bacon wrote:
>
> >  try cleaning your
> > windshield with a sponge and "Soft Scrub"
>
> Interesting.  And I wonder if anyone has tried toothpaste, it being
> supposedly a carefully controlled fine abrasive.
>
> --
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Aug 12 20:46:53 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 21:46:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] mild cam
References: <352174.46524.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><354a1780908121453v77c33bdep3083c32ec3add017@mail.gmail.com>
	<47C8570CEF2246CCBA65998DC450A0FF@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <61144E0305CF47289F4E03B8EDA3A1F7@ranteer.local>

idling at 1000 ain't so bad.  flooring it at 4k is BAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: "Irv Korey" <emanteno at gmail.com>; "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] mild cam


> YEAH!  What he said...
>
> Mike
>
>> You don't go to an aftermarket cam so the car can idle nicely. You do it 
>> so
>> you can go ripping down the road. I don't know what you are trying to 
>> idle
>> at, but you should look to set it closer to 1000 rpm, deal with a bit of
>> lumpiness, and then FLOOR IT and enjoy.
>>
>> Irv Korey

From auprichard at comcast.net  Thu Aug 13 03:52:56 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 09:52:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Jeff Slaton
In-Reply-To: <61144E0305CF47289F4E03B8EDA3A1F7@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <503443263.7525121250157176989.JavaMail.root@sz0168a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

List:



Jeff Slaton is the teacher in Kentucky who made me aB rear apron panel for my
TR3 restoration.B  It worked beautifully.



He has said it is OK to share his email with the list, so here it is:B 
j_slaton at bellsouth.net



Andrew Uprichard

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 13 06:20:11 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 05:20:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] mild cam addition
Message-ID: <812965.98554.qm@web59401.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I re-read my first email and thought I should clarify some. LOL  I do have a
lightened flywheel which makes more responsive acceleration but  also becomes
more "twitchy".  Maybe exagerating lumpy idle.
Also my car DOES IDLE  its not
that theres no idle...........I'm just going to have to learn to take off from
stop at 2,000 rpm instead of 1,000 and in cruising mode in 2nd and 3rd in town
keep it above or around 2,000.  

I do love the power on the road.......very
strong and loves to run at 70 now.  I still have to connect overdrive and am
anxious to see how that feels on the road.

gary n.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Aug 13 06:22:06 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 08:22:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glass Polishing
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W4862BA46F2567D3300AB6FBA050@phx.gbl>
References: <20090812.144049.1514.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com><4A833DC8.4847.CFD4B44@localhost>
	<BAY123-W4862BA46F2567D3300AB6FBA050@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AB3AC9F14C1B4DC49A8D19CFCE67DE7E@BOBSNEWPC>

Barkeepers Friend http://www.barkeepersfriend.com/Cleaning.html 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey
Sent: Wednesday, August 12, 2009 10:42 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: Re: [TR] Glass Polishing

I've used a product called "barkeepers friend" for years. Don't remember how
I found out about it but it works for me.

Marty

> From: jimmuller at rcn.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 12 Aug 2009 22:10:16 -0400
> Subject: Re: [TR] Glass Polishing
>
> On 12 Aug 2009 at 18:40, Phil Bacon wrote:
>
> >  try cleaning your
> > windshield with a sponge and "Soft Scrub"
>
> Interesting.  And I wonder if anyone has tried toothpaste, it being 
> supposedly a carefully controlled fine abrasive.
>
> --
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Aug 13 08:59:39 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 07:59:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Gas smell in garage
In-Reply-To: <1089724593.11873661250106702010.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1521533602-1250095902-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-750591392-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<1089724593.11873661250106702010.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908130759r23f318dfo5b2e829f44e9a666@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/12/09, pethier at comcast.net <pethier at comcast.net> wrote:
> Eh?  Our TR4 has a separate vent tube.

Indeed, I doubt it would work to have a totaly unvented tank.  That
is, it would work for a while until a vacuum developed in the tank.

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Thu Aug 13 15:20:02 2009
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 17:20:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Glass polishing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1250186403.1020.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1250186403.1020.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <48B3A622-213E-4D63-B6CD-E1E1F564BE85@mgcarclub.com>

On Aug 13, 2009, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

>
>>  try cleaning your
>> windshield with a sponge and "Soft Scrub"
>
> Interesting.  And I wonder if anyone has tried toothpaste,

Rain-X makes a cleaner/polish

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Aug 13 15:58:56 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 17:58:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] mild cam addition
References: <812965.98554.qm@web59401.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <24362651A2DB4320824FFBE0421D294C@userb38463fba5>

If you need 2000rpm to launch and it is a "mild" cam something is wrong. No 
way a mild street cam should require 2000rpm to launch unless you're going 
up a very steep incline and your flywheel is significantly lightened. I 
think you need to look for some other problem, like timing advance, mixture 
etc.
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 8:20 AM
Subject: [TR] mild cam addition


>I re-read my first email and thought I should clarify some. LOL  I do have 
>a
> lightened flywheel which makes more responsive acceleration but  also 
> becomes
> more "twitchy".  Maybe exagerating lumpy idle.
> Also my car DOES IDLE  its not
> that theres no idle...........I'm just going to have to learn to take off 
> from
> stop at 2,000 rpm instead of 1,000 and in cruising mode in 2nd and 3rd in 
> town
> keep it above or around 2,000.
>
> I do love the power on the road.......very
> strong and loves to run at 70 now.  I still have to connect overdrive and 
> am
> anxious to see how that feels on the road.
>
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 13 17:11:54 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:11:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] mild cam addition
In-Reply-To: <24362651A2DB4320824FFBE0421D294C@userb38463fba5>
References: <812965.98554.qm@web59401.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<24362651A2DB4320824FFBE0421D294C@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <5944A1289CF345EE8BF9CE38883B0255@jdnet.deere.com>

> No way a mild street cam should require 
> 2000rpm to launch unless you're going up a very steep incline 
> and your flywheel is significantly lightened.

I was running a Fidanza alloy flywheel with a stock cam; and 2000 rpm sounds
reasonable to me even on a flat road.

It can be done somewhat lower, if you are very good at synchronizing the
clutch release with the throttle application ... But I'm not that good, at
least not every time.

-- Randall  

From dlylis at gmail.com  Thu Aug 13 17:52:25 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 23:52:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] mild cam addition
Message-ID: <mailman.18.1250207628.20690.triumphs@autox.team.net>

I agree. I have a mild cam in my 3A and although I do not look at the tach when launching, close to 2000 would not surprise me.  
------Original Message------
From: Randall
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] mild cam addition
Sent: Aug 13, 2009 7:11 PM

> No way a mild street cam should require 
> 2000rpm to launch unless you're going up a very steep incline 
> and your flywheel is significantly lightened.

I was running a Fidanza alloy flywheel with a stock cam; and 2000 rpm sounds
reasonable to me even on a flat road.

It can be done somewhat lower, if you are very good at synchronizing the
clutch release with the throttle application ... But I'm not that good, at
least not every time.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

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This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Thu Aug 13 18:47:26 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 20:47:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] mild cam addition
References: <812965.98554.qm@web59401.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><24362651A2DB4320824FFBE0421D294C@userb38463fba5>
	<5944A1289CF345EE8BF9CE38883B0255@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <5C9164896E7D48D290972AAD6609EA50@userb38463fba5>

Well you see 2000 pretty quickly in first gear regardless but I stand by my 
thoughts, something else needs corrected if you need 2000 to launch on level 
ground.
Doing so makes it much easier but rough on a clutch if done so consistently.
JVV
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 7:11 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] mild cam addition


>> No way a mild street cam should require
>> 2000rpm to launch unless you're going up a very steep incline
>> and your flywheel is significantly lightened.
>
> I was running a Fidanza alloy flywheel with a stock cam; and 2000 rpm 
> sounds
> reasonable to me even on a flat road.
>
> It can be done somewhat lower, if you are very good at synchronizing the
> clutch release with the throttle application ... But I'm not that good, at
> least not every time.
>
> -- Randall

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Aug 13 18:53:17 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 18:53:17 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] Oh no, not again!
Message-ID: <20090814005317.A02C92E062@bradakis.com>

Seems that AOL has once again started blocking
Team.Net.

Why do I even bother?  Sheesh.

mjb.

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Thu Aug 13 19:27:52 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 19:27:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] TTA Charity Drive arrival to Colorado
Message-ID: <4A84BD98.9030808@triumphstagclub.org>

Hello All,

John Marcartney and "Uncle Jack" are now sweating it out in Texas. When 
I was there two years ago for VTR, it was 115 F!!!
Here is the schedule from the TTA web site starting the 18th of August 
for caravaners in the North Texas, New Mexico, and Rocky Mountain 
Colorado regions.

Tuesday 08/18 - Departure from Amarillo TX to Raton NM to Rendezvous 
with any and all caravaners to escort John to Colorado Springs. After an 
overnighter in Colorado Springs -

Wednesday 08/19 - drive up and down Pikes Peak Toll road, then lunch in 
Colorado Springs , then north toward and through Denver before rush hour!

ALL ROCKY MOUNTAIN BRITISH CLUBS: John is available for a talk about 
Coventry Motor industry days either Thursday 20th or Friday 21st 
evenings. Contact Glenn Merrell ASAP to set something up at your venue 
and invite all the other British Car clubs and members - pass the hat! 
Any arrangements and organization are greatly appreciated!

At this point, were at about past the halfway point in terms of 
distance covered and distance to go before the finish. With this in 
mind, Glenn and Susan Merrell have kindly asked John to spend a few days 
R&R with them in Lafayette, Colorado. Glenn is past Chairman and 
President of The Triumph Stag Club, USA and very much of a moving light 
in the organization and co-ordination of the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa 
Charity Drive 2009, Glenn being the TTA North American Charity Drive 
2009 Coordinator.

Sun. 23 August. A visit to Fort Collins as a guest of The British 
Motoring Club of Northern Colorado

Tue 25 August. The Drive resumes with John and uncle jack leaving Fort 
Collins, en-route for an evening meet with the guys and gals of 
somewhere between Ft. Collins and Omaha NE.

Cheers!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From agraham at execulink.com  Thu Aug 13 19:30:02 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 21:30:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 front suspension questions.
Message-ID: <200908140129.n7E1TYIn027922@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello List:
A couple of questions regarding my front suspension re-build. Have 
installed new upper ball joints (TRF) and can still see some of the 
splines on the ball joint shaft protruding from the upper control 
arms. Is this usual? The old joints homed in against the control arm 
and no splines were visible. I did try to pull them in with my impact 
wrench, but was afraid of stripping the nut/bolt threads. Will the 
protruding splines (1/4") affect front end geometry significantly?
For the rest of the rebuild a friend suggested substituting good 
quality nylock nuts for the many castellated nuts in the front 
suspension. A good idea? Would adding red Loctite help any in this 
application??
Thanks for any guidance with this.

Angelo Graham

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 13 20:02:42 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 19:02:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
Message-ID: <539016.24804.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

the car will certainly launch at less than 2,000 but not without
missing/coughing more than i'd like.  at 2000 everything smooths out
wonderfully.  I've noticed in around town driving it hates to lug and wants
more rpm.  for me thats not as relaxing as before.

but i agree with
randall..........I think I just need to learn to drive a little differantly. 
Learn to synchronize better and also get used to keeping revs up more in town
driving.

I'll have to admit though,  that if i had to choose over again i'd
stay with stock. lol  I'm 63 and too old for hot roddin maybe. lol

gary n.

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Thu Aug 13 20:36:54 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 19:36:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
In-Reply-To: <539016.24804.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <539016.24804.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <110688.74406.qm@web59715.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm a novice and learning a lot of good stuff on this thread from the List. 
But surely, a mild cam can't be that much different from stock if the common
labels are correct.  That is--stock, mild, street, and hot.
Forgive my
ignorance as I haven't gotten my car back yet from the garage, so I can't
report first hand on the "mild" cam installed.
Pat
________________________________
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 7:02:42 PM
Subject:
[TR] mild cam update

the car will certainly launch at less than 2,000 but not
without
missing/coughing more than i'd like.  at 2000 everything smooths out
wonderfully.  I've noticed in around town driving it hates to lug and wants
more rpm.  for me thats not as relaxing as before.

but i agree with
randall..........I think I just need to learn to drive a little differantly.
Learn to synchronize better and also get used to keeping revs up more in town
driving.

I'll have to admit though,  that if i had to choose over again i'd
stay with stock. lol  I'm 63 and too old for hot roddin maybe. lol

gary n.
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From mdporter at dfn.com  Thu Aug 13 21:23:02 2009
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 21:23:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
In-Reply-To: <110688.74406.qm@web59715.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <539016.24804.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<110688.74406.qm@web59715.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A84D896.5010109@dfn.com>

P Caffrey wrote:
> I'm a novice and learning a lot of good stuff on this thread from the List. 
> But surely, a mild cam can't be that much different from stock if the common
> labels are correct.

Ah, well, that's the rub isn't it?  Such labels are, for the most part, 
advertising, and very subjective. For example, a cam profile with gobs 
of overlap and very little increase in lift is going to be pretty mild 
at the top end, and will behave just plain horribly off-idle. 


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug 13 21:34:03 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 23:34:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
In-Reply-To: <110688.74406.qm@web59715.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <539016.24804.qm@web59407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A84A2EB.2691.37E3740@localhost>

On 13 Aug 2009 at 19:36, P Caffrey wrote:

> But surely, a mild cam can't be that much different from stock
> if the common labels are correct.

I can't speak to that at all, now can I?  But I'm struck by all the 
fuss over 2000rpm.  I can't recall now what car Gary N has, a 3 or a 
6 or anything in between.  I've owned high-rev'ing, high-geared, 
small-engined Fiats which wanted revs to launch, but neither the 
Spitfire nor the GT6 are in that category.  With careful clutch 
management the GT6 will probably launch from idle with no additional 
throttle input at all.  And that may just be a good way to stall it 
out too!  But either way, 2000rpm isn't all that much above, oh, 
1000rpm, which isn't an unreasonable idle.  Once you get the car 
moving you going to want to get it well above 2000rpm anyway.  So the 
real question is just how hard you are being on the clutch disk by 
requiring so much slippage.  Slowly engaging the clutch at, say, 
1500rpm (slowly by necessity perhaps at that rpm) may be worse than a 
brisker engagement at 2000rpm.  And the brisker launch is a lot more 
fun (as long as it isn't so hard as to wear out or break other 
drivetrain components).

Just my $0.015 musing.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 13 21:40:43 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 20:40:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 front suspension questions.
In-Reply-To: <200908140129.n7E1TYIn027922@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <20090814034043179.IMKL16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> A couple of questions regarding my front suspension re-build. Have
> installed new upper ball joints (TRF) and can still see some of the
> splines on the ball joint shaft protruding from the upper control
> arms. Is this usual?

No, but it happens.  You didn't seat the splines into the grooves already
cut in the arms, and they haven't cut new ones.  I'm not sure why it's a
problem, but I have seen it before.

> Will the
> protruding splines (1/4") affect front end geometry significantly?

I wouldn't be as worried about the geometry, as what happens if the splines
do eventually cut the grooves.

> For the rest of the rebuild a friend suggested substituting good
> quality nylock nuts for the many castellated nuts in the front
> suspension. A good idea? 

Personally, I have a lot more faith in a cotter pin than that little bit of
nylon.  I have seen even brand new Nylocs back off.  Given the choice, I
would stick with the castellated nuts.  But, the Nylocs will work, usually,
if you replace them every time.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 13 21:50:28 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 20:50:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] mild cam addition
In-Reply-To: <5C9164896E7D48D290972AAD6609EA50@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <20090814035027860.EPH8845@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> but I stand by my
> thoughts, something else needs corrected if you need 2000 to launch on
> level ground.

No doubt, but the "something else" IS that lightweight flywheel.

With a 4-cylinder 4-stroke, you only get two cylinder firings per crankshaft
revolution.  And with the throttle just barely open (as in a mild launch),
each firing produces power for only a small fraction of a revolution.  The
pistons are producing no power, most of the time.  Without that boat anchor
flywheel to store and deliver power on demand, it becomes very easy for the
crank rpm to drop below where the engine will continue running.

OTOH, not having to accelerate that flywheel makes a real difference in the
car's overall performance, especially in 1st and 2nd gear.  I had the choice
of not moving it to the project TR3 (since it already had a perfectly good
original flywheel and clutch); but that's where it is.

Yes, it's won't last forever like the original clutch did.  Always some
compromise when you start trying to increase performance.  But it's got at
least 30,000 miles on it, and I didn't bother having the friction plate
relined.

Randall

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Thu Aug 13 22:59:01 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 21:59:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hoot no more
Message-ID: <4A84EF15.1090909@gmail.com>

I finally dumped my hooters....Um, my TR's hooters that is.  The 
combined tone of the horns have always put my teeth on edge making me 
wish I could retune the frequencies.  That plus they aren't the loudest 
horns on the block.  With a little TR3 in SUV traffic it is nice to be 
heard if not seen.

So I finally yanked them today and replaced them with a pair of 
mid-'60's MARCHAL steel trumpet air horns.  The same horns used on 
classic Ferrari's and Maserati's    Now my TR3 speaks Italian with a 
much louder more harmonious tune.  There goes my concourse win but I 
prefer to be heard if not seen.

Teriann

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Aug 13 23:45:28 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 13 Aug 2009 23:45:28 -0600
Subject: [TR] Hoot no more
In-Reply-To: <4A84EF15.1090909@gmail.com>
References: <4A84EF15.1090909@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CE50DCF1FC5647EDBB7AE8C2A12A1229@bboffice>

Cool!  When will the pictures be on your web site?

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009 10:59 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Hoot no more

I finally dumped my hooters....Um, my TR's hooters that is.  The combined
tone of the horns have always put my teeth on edge making me wish I could
retune the frequencies.  That plus they aren't the loudest horns on the
block.  With a little TR3 in SUV traffic it is nice to be heard if not seen.

So I finally yanked them today and replaced them with a pair of mid-'60's
MARCHAL steel trumpet air horns.  The same horns used on 
classic Ferrari's and Maserati's    Now my TR3 speaks Italian with a 
much louder more harmonious tune.  There goes my concourse win but I prefer
to be heard if not seen.

Teriann
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Aug 14 06:49:35 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 08:49:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hoot no more
In-Reply-To: <4A84EF15.1090909@gmail.com>
References: <4A84EF15.1090909@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <10F1ED5073004761BB4804159ABA26E5@CarlPC>

wouldn't that be considered a 'safety' upgrade to period pieces - not to be 
penalized?

Carl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <tjwakeman at gmail.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 12:59 AM
Subject: [TR] Hoot no more


>I finally dumped my hooters....Um, my TR's hooters that is.  The combined 
>tone of the horns have always put my teeth on edge making me wish I could 
>retune the frequencies.  That plus they aren't the loudest horns on the 
>block.  With a little TR3 in SUV traffic it is nice to be heard if not 
>seen.
>
> So I finally yanked them today and replaced them with a pair of mid-'60's 
> MARCHAL steel trumpet air horns.  The same horns used on classic Ferrari's 
> and Maserati's    Now my TR3 speaks Italian with a much louder more 
> harmonious tune.  There goes my concourse win but I prefer to be heard if 
> not seen.
>
> Teriann

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Aug 14 07:41:43 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 06:41:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hoot no more
In-Reply-To: <10F1ED5073004761BB4804159ABA26E5@CarlPC>
References: <4A84EF15.1090909@gmail.com>
	<10F1ED5073004761BB4804159ABA26E5@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <4A856997.2070705@gmail.com>

Carl TR wrote:
> wouldn't that be considered a 'safety' upgrade to period pieces - not 
> to be penalized?
>
> Carl 
Well, the Marchal trumpets are mounted in the stock TR horn 
locations.    Concourse points don't matter a whole lot to me.  I'm not  
contender.  Even when I get the new paint job I'm saving up for.  I'd do 
OK until they popped the bonnet then I'd hemorrhage points like a 
British oil seal retains oil.

Oh well, they say fantasy is half the fun of life.

TeriAnn

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 07:48:58 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 09:48:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Test - Delete
Message-ID: <4A856B4A.9080103@earthlink.net>

Testing, Testing....

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Aug 14 08:02:51 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 07:02:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hoot no more
In-Reply-To: <CE50DCF1FC5647EDBB7AE8C2A12A1229@bboffice>
References: <4A84EF15.1090909@gmail.com>
	<CE50DCF1FC5647EDBB7AE8C2A12A1229@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4A856E8B.8020704@gmail.com>

wbeech at flash.net wrote:
> Cool!  When will the pictures be on your web site?
>   
Probably not at all. The trumpets are in the stock TR location which 
means the trumpets are under the front valance.  The compressor is red 
and blends in well with the red engine bay.  Mostly you just see the 
aluminum discs standing where the stock horns used to sit.  The horns 
are meant to be ostentatious when heard and to blend in when seen.

I'm saving up for a new paint job though.  Once it is repainted I may 
add a picture or two with the hard top installed.

Anyone know if there is much TR activity in or near the Durango or 
Flagstaff areas?

TeriAnn

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Fri Aug 14 08:15:40 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 07:15:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
Message-ID: <948803.26439.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am getting some conflicting info on the proper black for a TR6
windshield frame and tail panel. Is there a definitive source that says
whether it is flat or matte black?
      TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 09:01:55 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:01:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Message Length
Message-ID: <4A857C63.3080509@earthlink.net>

Does anyone know how long messages can be on the list??!?!?!  I've tried 
to send a couple of messages that have gone on to never-never land.

Joe

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 09:07:43 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:07:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
In-Reply-To: <948803.26439.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <948803.26439.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A857DBF.4080108@earthlink.net>

Bill,

Flat and Matte are almost the same thing.  Flat is 0 luster and Matte 
just a tad more IIRC.  [ Flat - Matte - Satin - Semi-gloss - Gloss]  
Basically, the tail and grill should not have any gloss to them.  I am 
curious about the window frame however.  I always thought it was a satin 
black. 

Here is a quick link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gloss_%28paint%29.

Joe B
72 TR-6

William Brewer wrote:
>      I am getting some conflicting info on the proper black for a TR6
> windshield frame and tail panel. Is there a definitive source that says
> whether it is flat or matte black?
>       TIA,
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 09:08:23 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:08:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 black areas,  paint , etc  Part 1a
Message-ID: <4A857DE7.8010002@earthlink.net>

These are bits and pieces from emails I've saved for YEARS from the 
list.  (Really need to update to a modern BBS system here)

Joe B
72 TR-6


The area behind the grill should be black and should extend to the curved
part of the side edges where the grill meets the body but not beyond that
point.  The body color should not be seen when looking straight into the grill.
This section was painted with a brush so dont worry about some perfect paint
job as you really dont notice it thru the grill.

Gordon Swart
76 TR6
67 Austin Healey 3000
87 Mustang GT



Chip
Your head colour should be the same as the block - IOW semi matt black or
'dirty something.' Exception is that the push rod tubes were plated -
either zinc or something like that.

John Mac


Vito:                                                                    
     
the bonnet rails bolts and nuts are painted.  the bracket nuts
for radiator braces are unpainted likewise for the back of the bolts and nuts
that hold the rubber seal at top of radiator shrowd.  the door hinges and bolts are painted but there is a bolt under the driver and passenger side mirror, unpainted.  there are two bolts over top of the door jambs that are unpainted.         i am original owner of a 74 tr6 and am positive this is correct.  i do not currently have any photos of what you request, but if you are not in a hurry for them i can take some and send to you within next couple of weeks unless someone else already has some!    
     
                                                                      
Paul 
Wilson 74 tr6



Vito Pacione wrote:

I'm getting my body repainted (finally). I had some question on some
of the
body panel painting. My car had had some previous repair so I can't
tell for
sure how factory paint was done.

Vito - as a general rule of thumb, if the component is an integral
part of the body structure and integrity, it was painted in one pass.
This includes doors, bonnets, boot lids, hinges, related fasteners
holding one body element to the other. etc.
Doors were not painted separately and fitted later. Today is it
customary to remove fully painted doors and associated hardware during
assembly to facilitate access. It wasn't then. Related hardware such
as window mechanisms, door locks and other components would have been
plated (galvanised, phosphated, chromed etc) and fitted in the build
process. Consequently the related hardware would not have been
painted. You don't say what your car is - but if its a TR, it would
have been painted at the Liverpool plant which, apart from generally
appalling build quality of the body structure as a whole, had its own
unique rules regarding painting. The 'rules' centred essentially on
attitude, general bloody-mindedness and what people felt like doing at
the time.

Jonmac

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 09:08:49 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:08:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 black areas,  paint , etc  Part 1b
Message-ID: <4A857E01.8010803@earthlink.net>

These are bits and pieces from emails I've saved for YEARS from the 
list.  (Really need to update to a modern BBS system here)

Joe B
72 TR-6



Joe:

Dip stick is gloss black [plated?]
Trunk Lock is silver [plated]
Lower Hood Release is silver [plated]
Wiper motor bracket: the strap is silver [CAD plated] and the bracket is gloss 
 black

Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3



Vito,

CF37325U still has its factory paint and the fender bolts and door hinge
bolts are painted body color. As far as any interior door bolts you'll
have to be more specific, as some of the smaller bolts holding the
window stops and channels were not painted. But then they are not
exposed, so I doubt it makes any difference, at least to me anyway. 
A bit of warning on sealing the seam between the fenders and body. The
shop that painted CF38690UO felt the seams should be sealed at the
surface so a crack wouldn't be seen. It was a mistake because the body
flexes so much the paint cracks at these seams after a while.
Let me know if I can help further,

Jim Davis
Fortson, GA 

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 09:47:35 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:47:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 black areas,  paint , etc  Part 2a
Message-ID: <4A858717.3080707@earthlink.net>

Joe B
72 TR6


Bollen wrote:



> > 
> > I have starterd removing the underhood components of the 6 as I am
> > finally getting the engine compartment painted same color as exterior.
> > I need help in refinishing the accessories the correct colors ie
> > 
> > Radiator braces
>   
Black: semigloss
> > Cross Member
>   
Black: semigloss
> > Brake Booster
>   
Black: gloss
> > Alternator
>   
Original: not painted aluminum body with black plastic rear cover
> > Water pump outlet
>   
Original: not painted
> > Engine mounts
>   
Black: flat
> > Wiper motor and bracket
>   
Bracket is not painted, polished metal and motor is aluminum painted (I 
have seen both black and aluminum, I used aluminum because it goes 
better with the Laurel Green paint I used)
> > Hood hinges
>   
Same colour as your body
> > Steering column
>   
Black: matte Any corrections from the list is welcomed. I also recall 
someone having a list of TR6 paint specifications for parts. Not sure if 
this was on someone's web site or possible it has been added to the VTR 
site (haven't visited it in a while). If you have any other parts or 
areas you'd like clarification, please ask (a commom mistake is that the 
bonnet support bar should be painted black (semigloss) while the holding 
mount when the bar is down should be painted the colour of the car). 
Hope this helps.

Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6



AND A VERY STRANGE ONE:

front trunnions are brass, but I think that I can see traces of black

Wrong, in a rarely known fact, the TR6 painted the right (starboard)
trunnion bright green and the left (port) trunnion bright red.
This paint didn't stick very well, so is impossible to see except on
a most original car or properly prepared Concours example.
The Dupont Old World colour codes for these rare colors are A-123/456.
The trunnions were originally used on the Spitfloat racing barge.
Hence the colorful heritage...

--
Roger G. Bolick, rgb at exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 345-2879

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 09:48:23 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:48:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 black areas,  paint , etc  Part 2b
Message-ID: <4A858747.8080709@earthlink.net>

Last part...

Joe
72 TR6


Cliff:

Here are the following colors I painted after researching each. I will
not be so presumptuous to believe I could be wrong, so see what the
others have to say.

Exhaust Manifold: your supposed to leave cast but I went with Eastwoods
High Temp Stainless Steel to retain the color and stop that God awful rust.

Carb Linkage: leave this as is (cleaned up, of course)

Brake Master Cylinder: The servo unit is a gloss black and the MS
assembly (the front part) is polished as is or silver.

Oil Canister: I replaced mine with the spin on (sorry).

Water pipe intake manifold: engine black

Thermostat housing: engine black

Hope this helps.

Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3




AND TO CONFUSE THE UNDER-HOOD PAINT EVEN MORE:

dip stick - yellow [plated]
trunk lock - yellow [plated]
lower hood release - silver (although on TR250s may be painted [plated]
wiper motor bracket - silver [plated]

Hope this helps

Larry Miceli
Gold Coast Triumph Club
66 Herald
73 Stag
69 Jaguar E-type FHC (basket case)



AND JUST TO CONFUSE THE REAR VALENCE ISSUE SOME MORE:

"Cliff" wrote
I know this has been discussed many times but...
for originality sake,
black areas on a TR6 (except 69) were;
1. Rear Valance - Flat black

Hi, Cliff
Except 1969?
I was sorting through a box of old pix within the last month and found
one of UDU 69 G - the red TR6 London demonstration car to US spec. I
was 'breaking it in' at the time and this car was one of the first
TR6's built. It's very definitely got a matt black rear panel. If I
can find the pic again, I'll scan it and mail it to you.

Jonmac



Steve
What is the front limit to the black on the upper and lower grill
mouth? No black on the hood lip of course but how far forward does the
black come?

Don,
That's difficult to see. Between the grill, the hood and the black moulding
it all gets lost behind something else. I can see that the black satin 
paint
doesn't quite go to the top of the grill surround. On the bottom, it
disappears behind the lower moulding.

If this is a critical issue for you, I can pull out the grill, take some
digitals and have it back together in under an hour. It would have to 
wait for
the weekend, though. Say the word and the jpgs are yours.

Steve
'72 CCUO

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 14 09:49:52 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 08:49:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
Message-ID: <678865.82805.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm loving all the input.  Nice to hear what others have experienced. 
Answering one question on timing, I had it set around 18
btdc............mechanic said he set it back a littl.......i'm guessing around
16.  He mentioned low vacuum being a problem which I don't understand.  He
said i had no leaks but around 10lbs.  and need around 19 lbs to make it run
better coming off idle.   He said the only alternative to smooth running off
idle was higher rpm.

in reading back through old notes I made i see someone
mentioned that there are alternate sets of holes in the cam sprocket.  bolts
on with 2 bolts but 4 holes.........two are offset.  would this make any
differance?  

gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 14 09:51:10 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 08:51:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Message Length
In-Reply-To: <4A857C63.3080509@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20090814155109668.TQOT16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Does anyone know how long messages can be on the list??!?!?!  I've tried
> to send a couple of messages that have gone on to never-never land.

I believe the limit is around 1024 bytes, before the stuff the server adds
at the end.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 14 09:59:17 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 15:59:17 +0000
Subject: [TR] Glass polishing
In-Reply-To: <48B3A622-213E-4D63-B6CD-E1E1F564BE85@mgcarclub.com>
References: <mailman.5.1250186403.1020.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<48B3A622-213E-4D63-B6CD-E1E1F564BE85@mgcarclub.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W14F0F81E89E7FE3768911BE5020@phx.gbl>

Do not attempt to clean your windshield with a plastic scrubber.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 14 10:06:11 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 09:06:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Hoot no more
In-Reply-To: <4A856E8B.8020704@gmail.com>
References: <4A84EF15.1090909@gmail.com>
	<CE50DCF1FC5647EDBB7AE8C2A12A1229@bboffice>
	<4A856E8B.8020704@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908140906h4c6412efmf8ed7671bbc9e131@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/14/09, TeriAnn J. Wakeman <tjwakeman at gmail.com> wrote:>
> Anyone know if there is much TR activity in or near the Durango or
> Flagstaff areas?
>
> TeriAnn

If you mean events now or soon, I know of none around Flag.  I would
add that that I have very seldom encountered a Brit car owner from
that (very fine) town.

There are events (always in the Spring, sometimes in the Fall) that
take in the Flag area.

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 14 10:10:10 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 09:10:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Message Length
In-Reply-To: <4A857C63.3080509@earthlink.net>
References: <4A857C63.3080509@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908140910l7821e46fyb6ce57eee714e7db@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/14/09, Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net> wrote:
> Does anyone know how long messages can be on the list??!?!?!  I've tried
> to send a couple of messages that have gone on to never-never land.

Are you sure they did not show up? -- possibly you do not see what you
send as incoming mail (that is how Gmail works for example).

Did they include your 2 messages about painting details on the TR6?

Geo

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 14 10:13:36 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 09:13:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Oh no, not again!
In-Reply-To: <20090814005317.A02C92E062@bradakis.com>
References: <20090814005317.A02C92E062@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908140913i17bbba37s8f675ed03106982c@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/13/09, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:
> Seems that AOL has once again started blocking
> Team.Net.

I have made no effort to understand the problem but offer FWIW to AOL users:

For this list I use a dedicated Gmail address.  Messages are nicely
organized, personal archive is huge & presumably forever (and not on
my box).

I think you can just sign up but if you really need an 'invitation' I
can easily send you one.

Geo

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 14 10:23:38 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 12:23:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] Message Length
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0908140910l7821e46fyb6ce57eee714e7db@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4A857C63.3080509@earthlink.net>
	<7bb181af0908140910l7821e46fyb6ce57eee714e7db@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A858F8A.5050602@earthlink.net>

The original full message, and the one I split into two parts, never 
showed up.  I split the original message into four parts and so far have 
seen the first three.  Using Earthlink.

Thanks,

Joe

Geo Hahn wrote:
> On 8/14/09, Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net> wrote:
>   
>> Does anyone know how long messages can be on the list??!?!?!  I've tried
>> to send a couple of messages that have gone on to never-never land.
>>     
>
> Are you sure they did not show up? -- possibly you do not see what you
> send as incoming mail (that is how Gmail works for example).
>
> Did they include your 2 messages about painting details on the TR6?
>
> Geo

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 14 10:47:06 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 12:47:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
In-Reply-To: <678865.82805.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <678865.82805.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W35E3AF773C7F9BB451E5AABA020@phx.gbl>

I think somebody already mentioned it but I chased an intermittent idle
problem for a long time and it turned out to be a leaky brake booster. Huge
difference once I got rid of that unit.



Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Get your vacation photos on your phone!
http://windowsliveformobile.com/en-us/photos/default.aspx?&OCID=0809TL-HM

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Aug 14 10:56:07 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 12:56:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
In-Reply-To: <678865.82805.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090814165607.P7ZAO.246084.root@cdptpa-web18-z02>

Gary with regard to your question on the cam sprocket holes. I don't know the specifics of your cam but some need to be degreed upon installation and can not just be bolted up as the stock cam was. This is a maybe and maybe not answer because of the lack of specific cam information. If it needed to be degreed and was not then the cam timing could be incorrect. Who installed the cam and were there instructions furnished with the cam? Were these instructions followed during installation?
JVV

---- Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> I'm loving all the input.  Nice to hear what others have experienced. 
> Answering one question on timing, I had it set around 18
> btdc............mechanic said he set it back a littl.......i'm guessing around
> 16.  He mentioned low vacuum being a problem which I don't understand.  He
> said i had no leaks but around 10lbs.  and need around 19 lbs to make it run
> better coming off idle.   He said the only alternative to smooth running off
> idle was higher rpm.
> 
> in reading back through old notes I made i see someone
> mentioned that there are alternate sets of holes in the cam sprocket.  bolts
> on with 2 bolts but 4 holes.........two are offset.  would this make any
> differance?  
> 
> gary n.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 14 12:06:00 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 11:06:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
In-Reply-To: <678865.82805.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <678865.82805.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1E7E996529B1466E9FB9FDFA2382442C@jdnet.deere.com>

> bolts on with 2 bolts but 4 holes.........two are 
> offset.  would this make any differance?  

Well, yes.  Those holes (in addition to being able to flip the sprocket
front/back) allow for adjustment of the cam timing in roughly 4 degree
steps.  Camshaft timing is just as important to engine performance as
ignition timing, even though it's not as easily adjustable, so IMO the cam
timing should be checked any time you disturb it (for example by replacing
the camshaft).

-- Randall  

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Fri Aug 14 13:47:41 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (jerryvv at roadrunner.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 15:47:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
In-Reply-To: <678865.82805.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090814194741.7FS99.248168.root@cdptpa-web18-z02>

Gary, more to my previous posting. Randall's post and the notes you refer to are for the 4clyinder wet liner engine in a TR3 thruogh TR4A. These same notes may apply to a TR 250 and TR6 but I am not certain of that. Someone else will need to confirm if the 6 cylinder engines also have a cam sprocket that can be flipped and turned 90 degrees to adjust cam timing. Do you have a TR3 or 4 or do you have a TR 6? You are saying that your mechanic is commenting on the amount of vacuum that you have being too low. In my opinion that can also be caused by incorrect cam timing. So.........I go back to my question earlier. Who installed the cam, were there degreeing instructions included and were they followed at cam installation?

JVV

---- Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote: 
> I'm loving all the input.  Nice to hear what others have experienced. 
> Answering one question on timing, I had it set around 18
> btdc............mechanic said he set it back a littl.......i'm guessing around
> 16.  He mentioned low vacuum being a problem which I don't understand.  He
> said i had no leaks but around 10lbs.  and need around 19 lbs to make it run
> better coming off idle.   He said the only alternative to smooth running off
> idle was higher rpm.
> 
> in reading back through old notes I made i see someone
> mentioned that there are alternate sets of holes in the cam sprocket.  bolts
> on with 2 bolts but 4 holes.........two are offset.  would this make any
> differance?  
> 
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Fri Aug 14 14:20:51 2009
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 15:20:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] mild cam update
In-Reply-To: <20090814194741.7FS99.248168.root@cdptpa-web18-z02>
References: <20090814194741.7FS99.248168.root@cdptpa-web18-z02>
Message-ID: <3F4D2E8002894F02ACE58EDD5E4AA9B3@aitinc.local>

The TR6 engine cam sprocket is made so it can flipped and turned 90 degrees 
to adjust cam timing, the same as TR3/4 and Spitfire engines.

Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "Gary Nafziger" <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] mild cam update


> Gary, more to my previous posting. Randall's post and the notes you refer 
> to are for the 4clyinder wet liner engine in a TR3 thruogh TR4A. These 
> same notes may apply to a TR 250 and TR6 but I am not certain of that. 
> Someone else will need to confirm if the 6 cylinder engines also have a 
> cam sprocket that can be flipped and turned 90 degrees to adjust cam 
> timing. Do you have a TR3 or 4 or do you have a TR 6? You are saying that 
> your mechanic is commenting on the amount of vacuum that you have being 
> too low. In my opinion that can also be caused by incorrect cam timing. 
> So.........I go back to my question earlier. Who installed the cam, were 
> there degreeing instructions included and were they followed at cam 
> installation?
>
> JVV

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 15 08:19:09 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 07:19:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] su tr6 conversion
Message-ID: <112864.19792.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

gm all anyone running su's on their tr6 get back to me i have a few questions to ask thanks ralph from new york

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 15 08:27:48 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 14:27:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Cam timing.
In-Reply-To: <1E7E996529B1466E9FB9FDFA2382442C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <678865.82805.qm@web59415.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<1E7E996529B1466E9FB9FDFA2382442C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W32FFAB87E903442705AADE5030@phx.gbl>

Actually there is an adjustable cam sprocket available from Jessel that allows
fairly easy adjustment of cam timeing after installation.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=PID23384::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:NF_BR_syn
c:082009

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 15 08:50:31 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 07:50:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] Cam timing.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W32FFAB87E903442705AADE5030@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090815145031564.LZAJ15914@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> Actually there is an adjustable cam sprocket available from Jessel that
> allows fairly easy adjustment of cam timeing after installation.

I guess that would depend on your definition of "easy".  On a TR2-3B, you
have to start by disassembling the body to remove the timing cover; hardly
my idea of 'easy'.

Randall

From lherault at bu.edu  Sat Aug 15 16:30:47 2009
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 18:30:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] rebuilt fuel pumps -TR6
Message-ID: <475AA3C0E598464B8CACD049BD4B72CF@ronlherault>

I suspect that my fuel pump is leaking gas into the oil sump Oil level went
up) and will need replacing.  I'm thinking of a Roadster Factory rebuilt
unit.  Does anyone have any feedback about these pumps?  Do they use
diaphragm material that will hold up to modern day gasoline additives?

Thanks,

Ron L

From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Sat Aug 15 17:16:26 2009
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2009 19:16:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] rebuilt fuel pumps -TR6
In-Reply-To: <475AA3C0E598464B8CACD049BD4B72CF@ronlherault>
References: <475AA3C0E598464B8CACD049BD4B72CF@ronlherault>
Message-ID: <BE5CFBF5FACD42C6846930260D33DE59@TomandWendyPC>

When that happened to me, I replaced the old mechanical pump with a Facet 
electronic one.  The Facet even came with a blanking plate to fit the hole 
in the block where the old pump lived.  I have absolutely no regrets.  The 
new pump comes on when the key-switched circuits come on and I know that the 
carbs are getting fuel before I start to crank the engine.  I have the old 
pump as a relic to look at from time to time.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron L'Herault" <lherault at bu.edu>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2009 6:30 PM
Subject: [TR] rebuilt fuel pumps -TR6


>I suspect that my fuel pump is leaking gas into the oil sump Oil level went
> up) and will need replacing.  I'm thinking of a Roadster Factory rebuilt
> unit.  Does anyone have any feedback about these pumps?  Do they use
> diaphragm material that will hold up to modern day gasoline additives?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ron L
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Aug 16 09:30:23 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:30:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] rebuilt fuel pumps -TR6
In-Reply-To: <BE5CFBF5FACD42C6846930260D33DE59@TomandWendyPC>
References: <475AA3C0E598464B8CACD049BD4B72CF@ronlherault>
	<BE5CFBF5FACD42C6846930260D33DE59@TomandWendyPC>
Message-ID: <V3ZP1c00341jCx4053ZPJp@charter.net>

At 07:16 PM 8/15/2009, Tom Walling & Wendy Rose wrote:
>When that happened to me, I replaced the old mechanical pump with a 
>Facet electronic one.  The Facet even came with a blanking plate to 
>fit the hole in the block where the old pump lived.  I have 
>absolutely no regrets.  The new pump comes on when the key-switched 
>circuits come on

Plus, you have the added benefit of a fuel pump that, in the event of 
a catastrophic collision, keeps feeding the flames even after the 
engine has stopped running.  I'd install one of the many safety 
devices available if I were you.

When (I thought) my fuel pump was failing, I installed a Facet in 
line with the mechanical pump.  I had a switch to turn it on when I 
thought it was needed.  The "click-click-click" was a reminder to 
turn it off if I forgot.  If I were to leave it on all the time, I'd 
wire it through the oil pressure switch, or get an impact sensor from 
a more modern fuel-injected car, or adapt the VW relay system.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From lherault at bu.edu  Sun Aug 16 10:49:33 2009
From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 12:49:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Leaking fuel pump or not?
Message-ID: <3A79609862054FAA825BF7C6C601A039@ronlherault>

Maybe its raining somewhere and a guru is on his computer to answer these
questions.

I've got the pump from my '73 TR-6 off.  

1. If the diaphragm were leaking, one should smell gas on the engine side of
the pump, right?
2.  If the diaphragm were bad, and you apply lung pressure to the inlet
side, would you hear or feel a pressure drop/leak?
3.  If you applied lung pressure to the outlet side and the diaphragm were
bad, would one be able to get the cam to move?

TIA

Ron L

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 16 12:02:58 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:02:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Leaking fuel pump or not?
In-Reply-To: <3A79609862054FAA825BF7C6C601A039@ronlherault>
References: <3A79609862054FAA825BF7C6C601A039@ronlherault>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908161102l226af706r2dc7e345bec774a6@mail.gmail.com>

Not raining here, if fact it's a beautiful day with our first annual
'100 miles/100 degrees' event taking off at 1:00.

I'll offer some comment based on my experience with the TR3/4 pump --
physically different but functionally similar I think.

On 8/16/09, Ron L'Herault <lherault at bu.edu> wrote:
> Maybe its raining somewhere...
>
> 1. If the diaphragm were leaking, one should smell gas on the engine side of
> the pump, right?

I would suppose so though the smell of petrol is so pervasive that I
am not sure that is a useful test.

> 2.  If the diaphragm were bad, and you apply lung pressure to the inlet
> side, would you hear or feel a pressure drop/leak?

Yes I believe you would, provided you have blocked the outlet and
provided that the leak is large enough.

FWIW - on a pump with a good diaphragm & check valves you should be
able to blow on the outlet and the inlet check valve will close and
hold the pressure.  You should also be able to suck on the inlet and
the outlet check valve will close and hold the vacuum.

> 3.  If you applied lung pressure to the outlet side and the diaphragm were
> bad, would one be able to get the cam to move?

No.  For one thing, the check valve will stop the air flow before
anything happens.  In theory blowing on the inlet (with the outlet
blocked) might be the set-up for this but the amount of air pressure
needed to move operating lever (if that is what you mean by cam) would
seem to me to be a LOT more than lungs could provide.

Geo

From pfischer at rmi.net  Sun Aug 16 16:35:47 2009
From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 17:35:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
In-Reply-To: <948803.26439.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <948803.26439.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A8889C3.8050703@rmi.net>

The 6 originally came with a flat-looking black on the tail panel. Can't 
tell you if it was called flat or matte. However, this color was sprayed 
over the body color. Over the years with exhaust deposits and repeated 
washings, often that paint would wear and body color would show through. 
Many people repainted either a shinier black or body color paint. The 
original paint, with exhaust deposits and the fact that you couldn't wax 
it didn't hold up very well.

If you're restoring to absolutely stock, you may not care about this. 
Just thought I'd throw some of the practicalities into the ring for your 
consideration.

Thanks!
Pat

William Brewer wrote:
>      I am getting some conflicting info on the proper black for a TR6
> windshield frame and tail panel. Is there a definitive source that says
> whether it is flat or matte black?
>       TIA,
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> ---
> avast! Antivirus: Inbound message clean.
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From pfischer at rmi.net  Sun Aug 16 16:46:27 2009
From: pfischer at rmi.net (Pat Fischer)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 17:46:27 -0500
Subject: [TR] Gas smell in garage
In-Reply-To: <1521533602-1250095902-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-750591392-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1521533602-1250095902-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-750591392-@bxe1023.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <4A888C43.6080505@rmi.net>

Sorry if this is a repeat. I think I missed the start of this discussion.

My 250 has about 4" of thin hose between the fuel line under the car and 
the gas tank. Allows for the flexibility of the car's movement I guess. 
Twice in my many years of ownership I've had to replace that small 
rubber hose due to leaking. It can leak at just the rate of evaporation 
at first, so there's no puddle or drip.

Years ago, one very long night, I awoke smelling gas. My bedroom is 
above the garage. Got dressed and looked under the TR and under the 
hood. No drip. Backed the Honda out of the garage, aired the place out, 
then back to bed. An hour later, more gas smell. Pushed the riding lawn 
mower and the snow blower out. Back to bed. An hour later, more gas 
smell. Pushed the TR out - and set out anything, like gas cans with fuel 
in it. The next day after work there was finally a few spots of gas on 
the drive under the TR. It made for a very memorable night. On the other 
hand, the house didn't burn down.

That's called stealth fluif.

Pat

staffel at comcast.net wrote:
> Also had that with my TR4, in trunk and Garage! Fix was simple-put folded saran wrap under gas cap as I closed it- has worked for years now! Problem is the 'seal' on the new in 2000 Moss cap is tight enuf to keep liquid in, but not for 'vapors'! Don't have a vent on my tank (original tank) at all!
> Sherman D Taffel
> Columbia MD
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 16 17:30:21 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 19:30:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
In-Reply-To: <4A8889C3.8050703@rmi.net>
References: <948803.26439.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<4A8889C3.8050703@rmi.net>
Message-ID: <4A88968D.7070508@earthlink.net>

BTW, you can't wax the tail if it is truly flat.  However, you can use 
Vaseline on it.  It is an old detailer's trick and it works better than wax!

Joe
72 TR6

Pat Fischer wrote:
> The 6 originally came with a flat-looking black on the tail panel. 
> Can't tell you if it was called flat or matte. However, this color was 
> sprayed over the body color. Over the years with exhaust deposits and 
> repeated washings, often that paint would wear and body color would 
> show through. Many people repainted either a shinier black or body 
> color paint. The original paint, with exhaust deposits and the fact 
> that you couldn't wax it didn't hold up very well.
>
> If you're restoring to absolutely stock, you may not care about this. 
> Just thought I'd throw some of the practicalities into the ring for 
> your consideration.
>
> Thanks!
> Pat
>
> William Brewer wrote:
>>      I am getting some conflicting info on the proper black for a TR6
>> windshield frame and tail panel. Is there a definitive source that says
>> whether it is flat or matte black?
>>       TIA,
>>
>>      Bill in Tehachapi
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>>
>> ---
>> avast! Antivirus: Inbound message clean.
>> Virus Database (VPS): 090814-0, 08/14/2009
>> Tested on: 8/15/2009 11:04:32 AM
>> avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2009 ALWIL Software.
>> http://www.avast.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Aug 16 20:01:12 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 20:01:12 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] Shameless self promotion
Message-ID: <20090817020112.DA0BF2E0D3@bradakis.com>

I have managed to put a few items up on Ebay lately,
trying to turn some of this inventory into something
I can actually use, money!  Check
http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZfatchancegarage
once in a while to see if anything you need shows up.

Thanks,
mjb.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 16 20:13:57 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 19:13:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield washer
Message-ID: <756374.69394.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I'm having trouble getting the windshield washer bezel (moss 145-290) to lay
flat on top of the TR3 scuttle panel.
when i feel under the dash the Bakelite
spacer feels flat (angle flat) and where it should be.
even the ugly old
bezel's are not sitting flat.
what am i doing wrong?
Frank
PS any one have a
spare Bakelite spacer they would like to sell? or have one they can measure?
that way i don't have to dismantle all the way.

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Aug 16 21:51:29 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 20:51:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 in Littleton, Massachusetts
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908162051290.1862@hymn31.u.washington.edu>

Anybody familiar with this car?

http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1315145152.html

   Looks like a real bargain...
-Nick
Seattle
'62-ish TR4

From don at napanet.net  Sun Aug 16 22:57:26 2009
From: don at napanet.net (don)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2009 21:57:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 in Littleton, Massachusetts
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908162051290.1862@hymn31.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908162051290.1862@hymn31.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20090816215647.037533f0@pop.napanet.net>

Well, I didn't look at it personally, but had a TR buddy that lives near 
the car check it out for me.  He liked it but, the prep work for the paint 
was lousy and he thought maybe the car had been vandalized and beat up, but 
not smoothed out prior to painting.  He said that it really needed a new 
paint job and proper prep.  He sent me some digital photos of the poor 
body/paintwork, and I understand what he was saying.  However, I guess it 
would depend on what a nice paint job would cost as to whether the car is 
worth buying.  When he looked at it for me, the owner was asking 10k.

Here's his comments:

"The BRG paint color is perfect but the body is full of ripples and 
bumps.  My guess is that it would cost at least $5,000 to have everything 
fixed and repainted."

If it was closer to home, at 8k, I would probably buy it.  I just retired 
so I'll have time to apply some bondo and sand panels smooth in my old age.

Don Scott
Calistoga CA

2001 Miata SE BRG
1962 MGA
1973 MGB GT (for sale)
1962 TR 4 (seeking)


At 08:51 PM 08/16/2009, you wrote:
>Anybody familiar with this car?
>
>http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1315145152.html
>
>   Looks like a real bargain...
>-Nick
>Seattle
>'62-ish TR4
>________________________________

From rengrave at verizon.net  Mon Aug 17 08:40:31 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 10:40:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 engine rebuild
Message-ID: <C921294FC2F4437F8E4EABEA98FAE92D@RossFamily>

I'm on vacation this week and I am determined to get the engine together and
in the car (73 TR6).

Can someone tell me what goes in the tapped hole directly above the oil
filter?
It's a tapped hole about 3/4" dia..
I'm not sure if it's a tapered thread or straight?

What I removed from this hole was a smashed looking mess, I think it was
aluminum. The machine shop cleaned
it out when they cleaned the block.

TRF shows a plug but no size  (Item AH11: Part # PU1404).

I need the plug ASAP and was thinking of buying a plug at the local hardware
store so I could install it this week.

What is the break-in procedure for the engine to properly break-in the cam and
piston rings?
I intend to add straight 30 wt "non-detergent" oil with a bottle of Lucas
engine break-in oil additive.
This additive has TB Zinc-plus on the bottle and protects flat tappet camshaft
and valve train during break-in period.

The directions on the bottle say to drain the oil after 1000 miles and refill
engine with normal oil.
I intend to refill it with Castrol GTX 20-50 like I have always used in the
past on my TR6.

Assembly lube?
Cam lobe lube?
Break-in oil?

Any suggestions on what you guys have used are welcome.


Wayne

From spook01 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 17 08:56:02 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 09:56:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 in Littleton, Massachusetts
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908162051290.1862@hymn31.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <D20B982E1A314C0587564EBD1A1799B5@yourpd3mh0abgs>

is that a later hood on the car?
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:51 PM
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 in Littleton, Massachusetts


> Anybody familiar with this car?
> 
> http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1315145152.html
> 
>   Looks like a real bargain...
> -Nick
> Seattle
> '62-ish TR4
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From agraham at execulink.com  Mon Aug 17 11:02:05 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 13:02:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
Message-ID: <200908171701.n7HH1vcP013475@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello List:
A question regarding the nut/bolt arrangement securing the rear 
shocks on the early cars. Has anyone substituted a different 
arrangement or type of fasteners for the shocks? The nylock nut is 
always a pain to get off and used a ground down socket to accomplish 
this. Someone had mentioned using cap-screws and nuts from the rear. 
Searched the archives and couldn't find anything on this. Any listers 
use a particular arrangement for this??
Also, when re-filling the rear shocks, Harley-Davidson fork oil was 
recommended. Any particular weight? The dealer told me that their 20 
wt. was the most used by the H-D boys. Is this weight right for our shocks??
Thanks again for any help with these questions.

Angelo Graham

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Aug 17 11:27:03 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 17:27:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <200908171701.n7HH1vcP013475@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <1443425883.370911250530023163.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

--- "Angelo Graham" <agraham at execulink.com> wrote:

> Hello List:
> A question regarding the nut/bolt arrangement securing the rear 
> shocks on the early cars. Has anyone substituted a different 
> arrangement or type of fasteners for the shocks? The nylock nut is 
> always a pain to get off and used a ground down socket to accomplish 
> this. Someone had mentioned using cap-screws and nuts from the rear. 
> Searched the archives and couldn't find anything on this. Any listers
> 
> use a particular arrangement for this??

If the TR3 is like our TR4, there is no wrench clearance on the shock body for the bolts that hold it to the frame.

Put a socket-head cap screw ("bolt" seems more appropriate for something this large) through the shock body.  Use a nyloc nut on the frame side.  You can either use a dedicated "allen" socket or just cut a piece of allen wrench and stick is in a conventional socket wrench to tighten the bolt.

Phil "been there, done that, my wife wears the T-shirt" Ethier.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 17 12:05:36 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 11:05:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <1443425883.370911250530023163.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090817180535482.YQYD29812@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> or just cut a piece of allen
> wrench and stick is in a conventional socket wrench to tighten the bolt.

You can also buy an equivalent purpose-made tool at Sears or any good tool
store.  Has the advantage that the piece of Allen wrench doesn't fall out as
easy <G>

Randall

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Aug 17 13:17:59 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 13:17:59 -0600
Subject: [TR]  Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1250532001.9721.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1250532001.9721.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2A091EA8-FCCA-4DE5-9F87-25E880DC2BE7@telus.net>

Better than wax at what? Collecting dust?


On 17-Aug-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
> Date: August 16, 2009 5:30:21 PM MDT (CA)
> To: Pat Fischer <pfischer at rmi.net>
> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>, William Brewer  
> <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
>
>
> BTW, you can't wax the tail if it is truly flat.  However, you can  
> use Vaseline on it.  It is an old detailer's trick and it works  
> better than wax!
>
> Joe
> 72 TR6

From oertwig at mac.com  Mon Aug 17 13:38:10 2009
From: oertwig at mac.com (Stephen Oertwig)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 15:38:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Drinkin' and Smokin'
Message-ID: <42174D34-A470-4B36-AF8F-41EF6B44B6B3@mac.com>

Triumph Experts All,


I am at my wit's end with my GT6 MK III (late) drinkin' brake fluid,  
and then smokin' so bad afterwards.

Here is the story:  I had the brake master cylinder rebuilt by White  
Post a couple years ago.  At the same time changed the rear wheel  
cylinders.  BTW:  this is the bastard year for GT6 rear brakes.  All  
is fine after the rebuild.

Last year, brake fluid start draining from the master cylinder after  
sitting for a few days.  It was not enough to have to bleed the  
system, but you have never seen such a cloud of smoke in your life  
when it started.  It looked like one of those mosquito foggers.   
Eventually, after about five miles of driving, it will quit smoking.   
It will puff smoke when I step on the brakes for a while.

I assumed there is something wrong with the power brake booster (the  
model with the dimpled band, which is non-serviceable according to the  
workshop manual.)  I thought something was drawing brake fluid into  
the power booster, which was then being sucked into the intake  
manifold through the vacuum line.

That's what I thought.  Saturday, a couple knowledgeable Triumph  
friends came to look at the GT6.  As soon as it started up, and they  
smelled the smoke, they said I had a blown head gasket.  They smelled  
coolant vaporizing, and said it was not smoke, but steam.

I don't have any water in the oil, and the coolant is not oily.

OK.  The head gasket is fixable, but what is the problem with the  
brake fluid draining out of the reservoir?  Has anyone heard of brake  
fluid being sucked into the brake booster, let alone causing smoke?

Time is running out because I may drive from Virginia to California  
for the VTR convention.    Ideas?

Steve Oertwig

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 17 14:30:13 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 13:30:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Drinkin' and Smokin'
In-Reply-To: <42174D34-A470-4B36-AF8F-41EF6B44B6B3@mac.com>
References: <42174D34-A470-4B36-AF8F-41EF6B44B6B3@mac.com>
Message-ID: <AA3CE8BAA000469B9503F6DA6AFAAE94@jdnet.deere.com>

> Has anyone 
> heard of brake fluid being sucked into the brake booster, let 
> alone causing smoke?

Fluid winding up in the booster is a fairly common problem.  Not really a
fault of the booster, it's just what happens when the seal in the MC leaks.
And since the booster is large compared to the reservoir, it's not unusual
for people to report that their brake fluid is simply "disappearing".

But usually, the errant brake fluid will start dripping onto your feet (or
carpets) before it rises high enough to get sucked into the engine.  There
is a good diagram at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Servo/Servo.htm
Showing this.

-- Randall  

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Mon Aug 17 14:42:51 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 13:42:51 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 in Littleton, Massachusetts
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908171342510.15770@hymn33.u.washington.edu>

Hi Ray

   It's hard to tell in the tiny photo.  The car sure looks good at 300x225 resolution, but apparently it's at least a "20-footer".  I wonder what the equation is to convert resolution to distance?  Clearly it's inverse, since a perfect car looks good at zero feet and infinite resolution, whereas a pile of rust only looks good from very far away, or very low resolution (one pixel).  =)

-Nick
Seattle
'62-ish TR4

On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 7:56 AM, spook01 <spook01 at comcast.net> wrote:

     is that a later hood on the car?
     Best,
     Ray

     ----- Original Message ----- From: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
     To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
     Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:51 PM
     Subject: [TR] 62 TR4 in Littleton, Massachusetts


         Anybody familiar with this car?

         http://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/cto/1315145152.html

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Aug 17 16:24:47 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 18:24:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <C921294FC2F4437F8E4EABEA98FAE92D@RossFamily>
References: <C921294FC2F4437F8E4EABEA98FAE92D@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <200908171824.48096.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 17 August 2009 10:40:31 am Wayne wrote:
> I'm on vacation this week and I am determined to get the engine together
> and in the car (73 TR6).
>
> Can someone tell me what goes in the tapped hole directly above the oil
> filter?
> It's a tapped hole about 3/4" dia..
> I'm not sure if it's a tapered thread or straight?
>
> What I removed from this hole was a smashed looking mess, I think it was
> aluminum. The machine shop cleaned
> it out when they cleaned the block.
>
> TRF shows a plug but no size  (Item AH11: Part # PU1404).

Wayne,

That plug is an oil galley plug and is lead.

I would order the TRF part and have your machine shop install it.

>
> I need the plug ASAP and was thinking of buying a plug at the local
> hardware store so I could install it this week.
>
> What is the break-in procedure for the engine to properly break-in the cam
> and piston rings?

Must be the same as any other engine. Make sure you use assembly lube on the 
cam and lifters, bearings and I also put some on the front and rear seals on 
my 6 project.

I used Brad Penn 30w break in oil on my recent TR3 rebuild. Just took it easy 
for a few 100 miles (not over 3000).
> I intend to add straight 30 wt "non-detergent" oil with a bottle of Lucas
> engine break-in oil additive.
> This additive has TB Zinc-plus on the bottle and protects flat tappet
> camshaft and valve train during break-in period.

The Lucas stuff cannot hurt!
>
> The directions on the bottle say to drain the oil after 1000 miles and
> refill engine with normal oil.

I ran the 30w brad penn oil for about 750 miles. Now use 20/50 Brad Penn 
racing oil. Lots of that zinc stuff.
> I intend to refill it with Castrol GTX 20-50 like I have always used in the
> past on my TR6.

I plan to do the same with my 72 6 project as I did with the 3.

The 3 and my 4 (which uses the same oil) run just great with great oil 
pressure.
>
> Assembly lube?
Used the stuff Moss sells.
> Cam lobe lube?
Used the Moss assembly lube.
> Break-in oil?
BP 30W
>
> Any suggestions on what you guys have used are welcome.
>
>
> Wayne
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Aug 17 17:26:23 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 19:26:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre CD - TR3
In-Reply-To: <756374.69394.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <756374.69394.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <91519C93D0BD45059B1CE4460E844737@CarlPC>

My wife purchased the CD originating from the British Trust (or whatever). 
Tried loading it on my computer that runs Microsoft Vista - all kinds of 
errors and can't get it to load.   Runs find on XP.  Anyone have similar 
issues and figured out how to work around it.

Thanks
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2009 10:13 PM
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield washer


> I'm having trouble getting the windshield washer bezel (moss 145-290) to 
> lay
> flat on top of the TR3 scuttle panel.
> when i feel under the dash the Bakelite
> spacer feels flat (angle flat) and where it should be.
> even the ugly old
> bezel's are not sitting flat.
> what am i doing wrong?
> Frank
> PS any one have a
> spare Bakelite spacer they would like to sell? or have one they can 
> measure?
> that way i don't have to dismantle all the way.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 17 17:48:00 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 16:48:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre CD - TR3
In-Reply-To: <91519C93D0BD45059B1CE4460E844737@CarlPC>
References: <756374.69394.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<91519C93D0BD45059B1CE4460E844737@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <FB17EAC6B8B640F98A52954EC1C99C88@jdnet.deere.com>

> Anyone 
> have similar 
> issues and figured out how to work around it.

I believe BMIHT even mentions on their website that it doesn't work on
Vista.
http://tinyurl.com/qx5fnu

Only solution I've heard is to upgrade to XP.  However, there is a
"compatibility kit" available from Microsoft that might possibly help, if
you are techie enough to use it.
http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyId=24DA89E9-B581-47B0-
B45E-492DD6DA2971

-- Randall  

From tr3a at comcast.net  Mon Aug 17 18:05:19 2009
From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 20:05:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre CD - TR3
In-Reply-To: <FB17EAC6B8B640F98A52954EC1C99C88@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <756374.69394.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<91519C93D0BD45059B1CE4460E844737@CarlPC>
	<FB17EAC6B8B640F98A52954EC1C99C88@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <0799A765-9872-43B1-B42B-BD2E3DE6075F@comcast.net>

UPGRADE to XP?! I love it!! :)

Michael
Sent from my MAC!

On Aug 17, 2009, at 7:48 PM, Randall wrote:
>
> Only solution I've heard is to upgrade to XP.
> -- Randall 

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 17 20:41:41 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 19:41:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] cam specs.
Message-ID: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I'm still working on fine tuning a new engine overhaul.

It would be helpful
for me to get some "real life" feedback from people who have more knowledge
and experience than me in the area of up-rated cams.

I have an S2 which has
lift of .405"............duration of 282 degrees and power band of 3500-6000.
How would you rate this cam on a scale of 1-10 with 1 being stock
..............and 10 being full race with no idle or street driveability? 
I'm a newbie in the area of mechanical ability and experience and need more of
a frame of referance to be able to judge when I reach the limit...........or
the place I should be happy with tuning wise.

thanks in advance

gary n

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Mon Aug 17 20:47:48 2009
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 22:47:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4/4A/6 Door Window Glass Channel Felt
Message-ID: <4A8A1654.6030100@gmail.com>

Hello,

I'm preparing to refit the windows and mechanisms to my TR4A doors.  The 
felt/rubber inserted in the front and rear vertical glass channels is 
disintegrating.  I've searched all the major suppliers and most all want 
to supply a complete new channel for ~$80 each.  $300+ for all four 
channels when all I need is the felt seems a bit excessive.  Looking at 
old catalogs there seems to be listings for just the felt, but I can't 
find a current listing.  Rimmer Bros has a vague listing that might be 
just the felt, but its not clear.

Has anyone successfully replaced just the felt with any success?  Is so, 
source and part number, please?

Thanks, Ben.......

-- 
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Mon Aug 17 21:07:01 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 20:07:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] cam specs.
In-Reply-To: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <215913.50628.qm@web59716.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

This won't be much help, but the sound is interesting from an S2--don't know
the duration.  Rough idle, but it certainly smooths out with increased RPM. 
See Link below if interested and for fun.
Pat
TR4A '67 (mild street cam, part
of restoration)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IlwJN8bknc
________________________________
From: Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 7:41:41 PM
Subject: [TR]
cam specs.

I'm still working on fine tuning a new engine overhaul.

It would
be helpful
for me to get some "real life" feedback from people who have more
knowledge
and experience than me in the area of up-rated cams.

I have an S2
which has
lift of .405"............duration of 282 degrees and power band of
3500-6000.
How would you rate this cam on a scale of 1-10 with 1 being stock
...............and 10 being full race with no idle or street driveability?
I'm a newbie in the area of mechanical ability and experience and need more of
a frame of referance to be able to judge when I reach the limit............or
the place I should be happy with tuning wise.

thanks in advance

gary n
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From elliottr at rmi.net  Mon Aug 17 21:07:09 2009
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 22:07:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4/4A/6 Door Window Glass Channel Felt
In-Reply-To: <4A8A1654.6030100@gmail.com>
References: <4A8A1654.6030100@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A8A1ADD.7060407@rmi.net>

I purchased the window channels for a TR 250 from 
http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/  Part #: tr4-4a-250-d-6 US $29.00.  
Much better than having to replace the steel channels that are in 
perfect shape.

The parts are being shipped from Canada. I got them faster than the 
website said to allow.

Roger Elliott

Ben Zwissler wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I'm preparing to refit the windows and mechanisms to my TR4A doors.  
> The felt/rubber inserted in the front and rear vertical glass channels 
> is disintegrating.  I've searched all the major suppliers and most all 
> want to supply a complete new channel for ~$80 each.  $300+ for all 
> four channels when all I need is the felt seems a bit excessive.  
> Looking at old catalogs there seems to be listings for just the felt, 
> but I can't find a current listing.  Rimmer Bros has a vague listing 
> that might be just the felt, but its not clear.
>
> Has anyone successfully replaced just the felt with any success?  Is 
> so, source and part number, please?
>
> Thanks, Ben.......

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Aug 17 21:30:33 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 21:30:33 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 control head?
Message-ID: <20090818033033.693C12E0EE@bradakis.com>

So we're working on this TR3, and for reasons I'd rather not
explain I had to pull the control head out of the steering
column once again.  This unit is in fairly bad shape, I sort
of got it almost working after cleaning it up and reinstalling,
but the best solution would be a new one ( Fat Chance? ) or a
used unit in better condition.  Anyone know of any of these
control heads ( 201872 ) readily available?

mjb.

From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Aug 17 21:56:38 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 22:56:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] cam specs.
In-Reply-To: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090818035708.8CF23187644@autox.team.net>

What kind of Triumph is this for?

Here's a page that may help - guessing based on other cams listed 
with the same duration, you'll be at the edge of streetable - I think 
the phrase used is "marginal for street use".

http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Technical/TriumphCams.html

- Tony Drews

At 09:41 PM 8/17/2009, Gary Nafziger wrote:
>I'm still working on fine tuning a new engine overhaul.
>
>It would be helpful
>for me to get some "real life" feedback from people who have more knowledge
>and experience than me in the area of up-rated cams.
>
>I have an S2 which has
>lift of .405"............duration of 282 degrees and power band of 3500-6000.
>How would you rate this cam on a scale of 1-10 with 1 being stock
>..............and 10 being full race with no idle or street driveability?
>I'm a newbie in the area of mechanical ability and experience and need more of
>a frame of referance to be able to judge when I reach the limit...........or
>the place I should be happy with tuning wise.
>
>thanks in advance
>
>gary n
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From emanteno at gmail.com  Mon Aug 17 22:12:59 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 23:12:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] cam specs.
In-Reply-To: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <354a1780908172112y2fe7ef66sc92956b70cfdd6c9@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 9:41 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> I'm still working on fine tuning a new engine overhaul.
>
> It would be helpful
> for me to get some "real life" feedback from people who have more knowledge
> and experience than me in the area of up-rated cams.
>
> I have an S2 which has
> lift of .405"............duration of 282 degrees and power band of
> 3500-6000.
> How would you rate this cam on a scale of 1-10 with 1 being stock
> ..............and 10 being full race with no idle or street driveability?


5 or 6. I had an S-2 clone in the 70's, and it was fine on the street. It
was a poorly made clone however, and wore out in 19,000 miles. I wanted a
well made cam from a reliable source so I replaced it with a tuftrided Isky
Z-19, which is slightly milder than the S-2, in 1985. I still have that cam
in my car. Thinking about your situation, I paid particular attention to my
car as I took a nice drive with it Saturday. My car idles at about 1000 rpm,
and it is relatively smooth at that speed. It is easy to launch, at
1000-1200 rpm, even with a Fidenza flywheel. I have no idea why you are
having so much difficulty, but IMHO, what you have is very streetable and
you should be able to drive and enjoy it.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 17 23:04:06 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 00:04:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre CD - TR3
References: <756374.69394.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<91519C93D0BD45059B1CE4460E844737@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <CE3399ACCF03426BB4EF9D3EA0F60413@ranteer.local>

try downloading vlc media player.  its free.  love that open source 
movement!!!!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 6:26 PM
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre CD - TR3


> My wife purchased the CD originating from the British Trust (or whatever). 
> Tried loading it on my computer that runs Microsoft Vista - all kinds of 
> errors and can't get it to load.   Runs find on XP.  Anyone have similar 
> issues and figured out how to work around it.
>
> Thanks
> Carl 

From oertwig at mac.com  Tue Aug 18 05:23:13 2009
From: oertwig at mac.com (Stephen Oertwig)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:23:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heritage CD's
In-Reply-To: <mailman.24300.1250566087.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.24300.1250566087.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <562E4737-AF2A-40F9-8663-831F3BC6CFED@mac.com>

I have the GT6 and 2000 CD, and encountered the same problems with a  
Mac.  The CD will not work on Macs.

I have a Winders 98 system, and the CDs work, eventually.  Takes my  
Winders 98 about 20 minutes to get it loaded.

If you want to upgrade, get a Mac.

Steve

On Aug 17, 2009, at 11:28 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 16:48:00 -0700
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre CD - TR3
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <FB17EAC6B8B640F98A52954EC1C99C88 at jdnet.deere.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
>> Anyone
>> have similar
>> issues and figured out how to work around it.
>
> I believe BMIHT even mentions on their website that it doesn't work on
> Vista.
> http://tinyurl.com/qx5fnu
>
> Only solution I've heard is to upgrade to XP.  However, there is a
> "compatibility kit" available from Microsoft that might possibly  
> help, if
> you are techie enough to use it.
> http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyId=24DA89E9-B581-47B0-
> B45E-492DD6DA2971
>
> -- Randall  
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2009 20:05:19 -0400
> From: Michael Ferguson <tr3a at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre CD - TR3
> To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <0799A765-9872-43B1-B42B-BD2E3DE6075F at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> UPGRADE to XP?! I love it!! :)
>
> Michael
> Sent from my MAC!
>
> On Aug 17, 2009, at 7:48 PM, Randall wrote:
>>
>> Only solution I've heard is to upgrade to XP.
>> -- Randall 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Aug 18 06:17:28 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 08:17:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4/4A/6 Door Window Glass Channel Felt
In-Reply-To: <4A8A1654.6030100@gmail.com>
References: <4A8A1654.6030100@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <17F3BC126457450CAE419C7C30494900@BOBSNEWPC>

No need to buy new channels. The easiest way to fix this problem is
documented here (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm) and all
you'll need is some heavy duty Velcro. It's an inexpensive way to fix the
problem that will last a long long time. Dozens of guys in the 6-Pack Forum
have used this technique with great results.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ben Zwissler
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 10:48 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4/4A/6 Door Window Glass Channel Felt

Hello,

I'm preparing to refit the windows and mechanisms to my TR4A doors.  The
felt/rubber inserted in the front and rear vertical glass channels is
disintegrating.  I've searched all the major suppliers and most all want to
supply a complete new channel for ~$80 each.  $300+ for all four channels
when all I need is the felt seems a bit excessive.  Looking at old catalogs
there seems to be listings for just the felt, but I can't find a current
listing.  Rimmer Bros has a vague listing that might be just the felt, but
its not clear.

Has anyone successfully replaced just the felt with any success?  Is so,
source and part number, please?

Thanks, Ben.......

--
Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 18 07:09:06 2009
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 08:09:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Heritage CD's
In-Reply-To: <562E4737-AF2A-40F9-8663-831F3BC6CFED@mac.com>
References: <mailman.24300.1250566087.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<562E4737-AF2A-40F9-8663-831F3BC6CFED@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W524077C64DF26A1DB19386E1FF0@phx.gbl>

Steve said:

The CD will not work on Macs.
If you want to upgrade, get a Mac.


If he is going to "upgrade" to get the CD to work, how is going to a Mac going
to help?

Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
See it moves!

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Aug 18 08:11:11 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:11:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre CD - TR3
In-Reply-To: <0799A765-9872-43B1-B42B-BD2E3DE6075F@comcast.net>
References: <756374.69394.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<91519C93D0BD45059B1CE4460E844737@CarlPC>
	<FB17EAC6B8B640F98A52954EC1C99C88@jdnet.deere.com>
	<0799A765-9872-43B1-B42B-BD2E3DE6075F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4A8AB67F.8050702@gmail.com>

Michael Ferguson wrote:
> UPGRADE to XP?! I love it!! :)
>
> Michael
> Sent from my MAC!
>   

I don't like it at all because the copy protection keeps the pdf file 
from opening on Macs ):  ):  ):

Totally bummed by that

Teriann

From hdrider570 at att.net  Tue Aug 18 08:26:48 2009
From: hdrider570 at att.net (Q)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 07:26:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4/4A/6 Door Window Glass Channel Felt
Message-ID: <553054.95409.qm@web83814.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

You can buy the felt/steel channel in 6' lengths fom J C Whitney.  You then cut to length and install the brackets from your old channels.  

Be carefull that the poprivits don't protrude to far into the channel or the window glass will foul on them.

Edward Hamer
Petaluam CA

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Aug 18 08:41:23 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 14:41:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <20090817180535482.YQYD29812@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <371582935.748441250606483810.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> > or just cut a piece of allen
> > wrench and stick is in a conventional socket wrench to tighten the
> bolt.
> 
> You can also buy an equivalent purpose-made tool at Sears or any good
> tool
> store.  Has the advantage that the piece of Allen wrench doesn't fall
> out as
> easy <G>

A careful reading of my post should reveal that's what came before the "or".

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 18 09:04:02 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 15:04:02 +0000
Subject: [TR] cam specs.
In-Reply-To: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <919389.38082.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W50CFEDCC3DA4F8DBE34435E5FF0@phx.gbl>

I would rate this cam as a "4".  A "10" would be a roller tappet, dual pattern
between intake and exhaust, 0.50 lift at 50 degrees, 108 degree lobe
separation, and advance timing.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1

From eoot at citlink.net  Tue Aug 18 09:55:30 2009
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 11:55:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 control head?
References: <20090818033033.693C12E0EE@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <B1DC546D95FE4F5EBFE53D3E531B8339@MyComputski>

Got mine from TRF.  No complaints.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2009 11:30 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 control head?


> So we're working on this TR3, and for reasons I'd rather not
> explain I had to pull the control head out of the steering
> column once again.  This unit is in fairly bad shape, I sort
> of got it almost working after cleaning it up and reinstalling,
> but the best solution would be a new one ( Fat Chance? ) or a
> used unit in better condition.  Anyone know of any of these
> control heads ( 201872 ) readily available?
> 
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 18 10:04:53 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 09:04:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <371582935.748441250606483810.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20090817180535482.YQYD29812@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
	<371582935.748441250606483810.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F0B0626ACC2E4775BC3FFFAB4FAE956C@jdnet.deere.com>

> From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] 

> A careful reading of my post should reveal that's what came 
> before the "or".

Indeed it should.  My apologies Phil, I misread it as "Allen wrench".

-- Randall  

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Tue Aug 18 10:38:05 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 12:38:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
In-Reply-To: <2A091EA8-FCCA-4DE5-9F87-25E880DC2BE7@telus.net>
References: <mailman.6.1250532001.9721.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<2A091EA8-FCCA-4DE5-9F87-25E880DC2BE7@telus.net>
Message-ID: <4A8AD8ED.1050202@earthlink.net>

I've been using that trick on the tail end of my car for a decade.  So 
far I've never had a problem with dust collecting on there any more than 
on the rest of the paint or bumpers.  It isn't like you should glop it 
on there...

Joe
72 TR6

Don Spence wrote:
> Better than wax at what? Collecting dust?
>
>
> On 17-Aug-09, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>
>   
>> From: Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
>> Date: August 16, 2009 5:30:21 PM MDT (CA)
>> To: Pat Fischer <pfischer at rmi.net>
>> Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>, William Brewer  
>> <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
>>
>>
>> BTW, you can't wax the tail if it is truly flat.  However, you can  
>> use Vaseline on it.  It is an old detailer's trick and it works  
>> better than wax!
>>
>> Joe
>> 72 TR6
>>     
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Tue Aug 18 12:47:23 2009
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 11:47:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F1030EA36@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Actually, it's SATIN...

Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6

From rengrave at verizon.net  Tue Aug 18 12:49:39 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 14:49:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
Message-ID: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>

Can anyone tell me how the #@$ do you fit the cork wedges into the aluminum
block
that mounts over the main cap at the front of the TR6 engine?

I have TRF gasket kit, and it contains two small gaskets that seal under the
block, and it
also contains "cork" pieces for the ends of the aluminum block.
The original wedges look like wood and are much harder.
The instructions in the Haynes manual say to hammer them into place,
then cut flush. But I don't think they originally had cork pieces to hammer.

Any tricks to this?

Wayne

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Aug 18 13:05:28 2009
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 15:05:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small tire changer -
Message-ID: <380-22009821819528282@M2W005.mail2web.com>

Its getting harder and harder to find a shop that will change tires on
wire wheels, especially since I have to have tubes installed.  they are all
afraid of pinching the tube, or damaging the wire rim from the force of the
machine, or they just don't want to deal with anything smaller than 24
inches...so, I was considering using one of Harbor Freights small tire
changers. The tire in question is a 165/70 13 - Has anyone used one of
these manual tire changing tools and if so, how well did it work?  I am not
too concerned with balancing the tire in question because I will be using
it for the spare anyway.  I was also thinking that possibly a motorcycle
shop may be able to do the work since they regularly handle wire wheels
with tubes.  Anybody try that as well?  I would think that they might also
be able to balance it, although most of their wheels have a different hub,
probably without a hole in it, so I'm not sure how they balance motorcycle
wheels.

The changer can be seen at:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34542

Barry Schwartz
San Diego, CA

--------------------------------------------------------------------
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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Aug 18 13:29:06 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 15:29:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
In-Reply-To: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
References: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <280EE7DA0D3E4CE687BA8AD4CF6EA770@BOBSNEWPC>

I believe they are just wooden wedges that get tapped into place. One change
you might want to consider is the steel block that Marc Goldblatt produces
to replace the alloy one you're trying to install. It totally eliminates the
risk of stripping the threads in the alloy block.
http://www.imaconstruction.com/sealingblock.htm  BTW.... He used to supply
neoprene wedges to use but has since found that the old wooden ones do a
better job of sealing against leaks. 

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 2:50 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Block wedges

Can anyone tell me how the #@$ do you fit the cork wedges into the aluminum
block that mounts over the main cap at the front of the TR6 engine?

I have TRF gasket kit, and it contains two small gaskets that seal under the
block, and it also contains "cork" pieces for the ends of the aluminum
block.
The original wedges look like wood and are much harder.
The instructions in the Haynes manual say to hammer them into place, then
cut flush. But I don't think they originally had cork pieces to hammer.

Any tricks to this?

Wayne
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Aug 18 13:40:25 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 15:40:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] Matte or Flat for TR6 Tail?
In-Reply-To: <4A8AD8ED.1050202@earthlink.net>
References: <mailman.6.1250532001.9721.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<2A091EA8-FCCA-4DE5-9F87-25E880DC2BE7@telus.net>
	<4A8AD8ED.1050202@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20090818154025.COF31718@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Joe B. wrote:
> I've been using that trick on the tail end of my car for a decade.

I use air to clean off the tail end of my GT6.  Don't have to carry it with me because it follows me around as I drive.
--
Jim Muller

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Aug 18 13:41:08 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 19:41:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <F0B0626ACC2E4775BC3FFFAB4FAE956C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <344437013.914481250624468202.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

No worries.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

----- "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 11:04:53 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
>
> > From: pethier at comcast.net [mailto:pethier at comcast.net] 
> 
> > A careful reading of my post should reveal that's what came 
> > before the "or".
> 
> Indeed it should.  My apologies Phil, I misread it as "Allen wrench".
> 
> -- Randall  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Aug 18 14:18:16 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 15:18:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re: Vista - CD
Message-ID: <25042551.17085.1250626696860.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net>


From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Aug 18 16:09:18 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:09:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small tire changer -
In-Reply-To: <380-22009821819528282@M2W005.mail2web.com>
References: <380-22009821819528282@M2W005.mail2web.com>
Message-ID: <200908181809.19261.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 18 August 2009 03:05:28 pm v6spitfireguy at cox.net wrote:
> Its getting harder and harder to find a shop that will change tires on
> wire wheels, especially since I have to have tubes installed.  they are all
> afraid of pinching the tube, or damaging the wire rim from the force of the
> machine, or they just don't want to deal with anything smaller than 24
> inches...so, I was considering using one of Harbor Freights small tire
> changers. The tire in question is a 165/70 13 - Has anyone used one of
> these manual tire changing tools and if so, how well did it work?  I am not
> too concerned with balancing the tire in question because I will be using
> it for the spare anyway.  I was also thinking that possibly a motorcycle
> shop may be able to do the work since they regularly handle wire wheels
> with tubes.  Anybody try that as well?  I would think that they might also
> be able to balance it, although most of their wheels have a different hub,
> probably without a hole in it, so I'm not sure how they balance motorcycle
> wheels.
>
> The changer can be seen at:
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34542
>
> Barry Schwartz
> San Diego, CA
>
>
Barry,

I have the same tire changer and used it to mount my 165/15 Coopers on my TR4  
dayton wire wheels. 

It works but it is hard work.

To insure the changer did not scratch the wheels I used electric tape 
everywhere the wheel would contact.

Also it is hard to keep the wheel tight to the changer because wire wheels 
dont have a lug hole. You have to go through the spokes and hope the nut to 
tighten is tight enough.

It was slow working but I managed to get my tires with tubes mounted without 
too much colorful language.

Another thing is the assembly has to be mounted to a solid floor. I had to 
drill holes in my cellar floor and use those expanding things with lag bolts,

Now last week I tried to use the changer to remove a 185/15 tire from a TR6 
rim but the part that is used to get the bead off was not long enough to 
generate the torque to get the lower bead off the rim. Had no problem with the 
top bead but the lower wouldnt budge.

Or I am getting to old and not strong enough?

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Aug 18 16:18:25 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:18:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
In-Reply-To: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
References: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <200908181818.26647.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 18 August 2009 02:49:39 pm Wayne wrote:
> Can anyone tell me how the #@$ do you fit the cork wedges into the aluminum
> block
> that mounts over the main cap at the front of the TR6 engine?
>
> I have TRF gasket kit, and it contains two small gaskets that seal under
> the block, and it
> also contains "cork" pieces for the ends of the aluminum block.
> The original wedges look like wood and are much harder.
> The instructions in the Haynes manual say to hammer them into place,
> then cut flush. But I don't think they originally had cork pieces to
> hammer.
>
> Any tricks to this?
>
> Wayne

Wayne,

The trick is to get the correct part. Those wedges should be wood. If yours 
are cork, I would call TRF and let them know their gasket set is incorrect. 
They should be able to source the correct part.

I just finished installing the block about a month ago and I tapped them in 
with some gasket goop and trimmed the excess with a paper knife.

Also take Bob D's advice and get the steel block. It is a top quality part and 
fits like a glove.

Bob

From rengrave at verizon.net  Tue Aug 18 16:54:05 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:54:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
In-Reply-To: <200908181818.26647.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
	<200908181818.26647.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <495B2E027FD0439C89F494635691ED61@RossFamily>

What kind of wood?
Maybe I can just make my own wedges and not use the cork.
What do you use for gasket sealer?
I was planning on using:
Permatex Ultra Black Hi-temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker for the aluminum 
block, oil pan gasket (pan side)
and rocker cover (cover side).
3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive for all the paper gaskets.
Is this good?

Wayne

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: "Wayne" <rengrave at verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Block wedges


> On Tuesday 18 August 2009 02:49:39 pm Wayne wrote:
>> Can anyone tell me how the #@$ do you fit the cork wedges into the 
>> aluminum
>> block
>> that mounts over the main cap at the front of the TR6 engine?
>>
>> I have TRF gasket kit, and it contains two small gaskets that seal under
>> the block, and it
>> also contains "cork" pieces for the ends of the aluminum block.
>> The original wedges look like wood and are much harder.
>> The instructions in the Haynes manual say to hammer them into place,
>> then cut flush. But I don't think they originally had cork pieces to
>> hammer.
>>
>> Any tricks to this?
>>
>> Wayne
>
> Wayne,
>
> The trick is to get the correct part. Those wedges should be wood. If 
> yours
> are cork, I would call TRF and let them know their gasket set is 
> incorrect.
> They should be able to source the correct part.
>
> I just finished installing the block about a month ago and I tapped them 
> in
> with some gasket goop and trimmed the excess with a paper knife.
>
> Also take Bob D's advice and get the steel block. It is a top quality part 
> and
> fits like a glove.
>
> Bob

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 18 17:20:59 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 16:20:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] cam idle update
Message-ID: <812943.75354.qm@web59416.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

thanks everyone for responses.  I always feel better after getting feedback
with any problem I bring to this place.  I loved the link someone sent that
included exhaust sound from the S2 cam.  Also thanks tony for the links to
tr-6 tuning information.  very helpful.  

I just got back from another run in
the car and the problem is getting worse.LOL  It's now missing more at highway
speed which it never did before.  Actually thats good news!  I feel its more
fixable than thinking about changing cam timing or even going back to stock
cam.  

With all new spark plug wires, coil, dizzy cap, rotor, points
.................i never did anything to the dizzy.  It's cleaned up but
stock.  I don't understand "curving" a dizzy.  How does curving a dizzy help? 
what does it do? and will that help idle?  

thanks again!

gary n.

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 18 17:54:35 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 16:54:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] reasonable chrome plate
Message-ID: <783137.8764.qm@web111602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

thought id share a supplier with those of you living in southern California.
i
recently had some chrome work done on the following parts. i thought the price
was very good and the finish is good too. 
Yolanda says she is recently
divorced and is not dating. she says she puts the copper on first and then
triple chrome.
TR2 cast aluminum grill $40.00
windshield stanchions $25.00
each
starting handle guide $25.00
apparently cast aluminum/mazak type metals
cost more.
Yolanda is not dating right now and is recently divorced.
as with
all small business i imagine your price will depend on how affluent you look.
and maybe if your dating or not.
your ability to speak Spanish will be an
advantage, but not necessary. Yolanda is perfectly capable of telling you she
is recently divorced.
the business is:
Yolanda's plating
3419 Union Pacific
Ave
Vernon/Los Angeles
CA 90023
323-992-0704
did i forget to mention Yolanda
is recently divorced?

Frank

From oertwig at mac.com  Tue Aug 18 18:05:06 2009
From: oertwig at mac.com (Stephen Oertwig)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 20:05:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smokin' the brake fluid
Message-ID: <BE389888-1475-4175-92EA-CDBEBB451124@mac.com>

Thanks to all who offered suggestions about diagnosing the vaporizing  
brake fluid and possible head gasket leak with the GT6 Mk 3

I disconnected the vacuum line to the manifold and plugged it and the  
brake vacuum line.  It still smoked when I started up, but there was  
not nearly as much smoke/vapor/fog as previously.  I ran the engine  
for about 30 minutes to clear all the smoke.

I'll start up again tomorrow night and see if it still smokes.  If so,  
on to the head gasket problem.

I still need to look about who can rebuild the brake booster.  The  
never ending story continues.

very sincerely,

Steve 

From geo at ohio.net  Tue Aug 18 18:25:24 2009
From: geo at ohio.net (Geo)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 20:25:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smokin' the brake fluid
Message-ID: <200908190025.n7J0PAMZ000550@popper.ohio.net>

I removed the booster....not needed. Only included on mkiii

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Oertwig <oertwig at mac.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 8:05 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Smokin' the brake fluid

Thanks to all who offered suggestions about diagnosing the vaporizing
brake fluid and possible head gasket leak with the GT6 Mk 3

I disconnected the vacuum line to the manifold and plugged it and the
brake vacuum line.  It still smoked when I started up, but there was
not nearly as much smoke/vapor/fog as previously.  I ran the engine
for about 30 minutes to clear all the smoke.

I'll start up again tomorrow night and see if it still smokes.  If so,
on to the head gasket problem.

I still need to look about who can rebuild the brake booster.  The
never ending story continues.

very sincerely,

Steve
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net


[The entire original message is not included]

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Aug 18 18:32:16 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 20:32:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] reasonable chrome plate
In-Reply-To: <783137.8764.qm@web111602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <783137.8764.qm@web111602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <119B315CA6504B1DB2DCC39588F94B94@BOBSNEWPC>

Frank.........I think Yolanda was trying to tell you something! ;-) 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 7:55 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] reasonable chrome plate

thought id share a supplier with those of you living in southern California.
i
recently had some chrome work done on the following parts. i thought the
price was very good and the finish is good too. 
Yolanda says she is recently
divorced and is not dating. she says she puts the copper on first and then
triple chrome.
TR2 cast aluminum grill $40.00
windshield stanchions $25.00
each
starting handle guide $25.00
apparently cast aluminum/mazak type metals cost more.
Yolanda is not dating right now and is recently divorced.
as with
all small business i imagine your price will depend on how affluent you
look.
and maybe if your dating or not.
your ability to speak Spanish will be an advantage, but not necessary.
Yolanda is perfectly capable of telling you she is recently divorced.
the business is:
Yolanda's plating
3419 Union Pacific
Ave
Vernon/Los Angeles
CA 90023
323-992-0704
did i forget to mention Yolanda
is recently divorced?

Frank
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 18 18:38:09 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 17:38:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] reasonable chrome plate
In-Reply-To: <119B315CA6504B1DB2DCC39588F94B94@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <783137.8764.qm@web111602.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<119B315CA6504B1DB2DCC39588F94B94@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <997054.45183.qm@web111616.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

really? what do you think it was? my Spanish is very poor, maybe yours is
better?


________________________________
From: Bob Danielson
<75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 5:32:16 PM
Subject: RE:
[TR] reasonable chrome plate

Frank.........I think Yolanda was trying to tell
you something! ;-) 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body
Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank Fisher
Sent:
Tuesday, August 18, 2009 7:55 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR]
reasonable chrome plate

thought id share a supplier with those of you living
in southern California.
i
recently had some chrome work done on the following
parts. i thought the
price was very good and the finish is good too. 
Yolanda
says she is recently
divorced and is not dating. she says she puts the copper
on first and then
triple chrome.
TR2 cast aluminum grill $40.00
windshield
stanchions $25.00
each
starting handle guide $25.00
apparently cast
aluminum/mazak type metals cost more.
Yolanda is not dating right now and is
recently divorced.
as with
all small business i imagine your price will depend
on how affluent you
look.
and maybe if your dating or not.
your ability to
speak Spanish will be an advantage, but not necessary.
Yolanda is perfectly
capable of telling you she is recently divorced.
the business is:
Yolanda's
plating
3419 Union Pacific
Ave
Vernon/Los Angeles
CA 90023
323-992-0704
did i
forget to mention Yolanda
is recently divorced?

Frank
_______________________________________________

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From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Tue Aug 18 19:10:41 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:10:41 -0700
Subject: [TR] Small tire changer -
In-Reply-To: <200908181809.19261.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <380-22009821819528282@M2W005.mail2web.com>
	<200908181809.19261.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908181810q3c7b2675k12cbf607ac26e40a@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/18/09, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> Also it is hard to keep the wheel tight to the changer because wire wheels
> dont have a lug hole. You have to go through the spokes and hope the nut to
> tighten is tight enough.

I, too, have that dingus and plan on using it in the Fall after a last
season of driving on my old Michelins.

I was thinking I could take an old knock-off nut and machine out a
hole of a size to fit down over the post.  That, in combination with
one of the hubs would hopefully secure the wheel better.

Also, I am thinking I can extend the 'feet' using pieces of angle iron
or perhaps even 2x3s and lowering my lift onto them to hold it in
place.

Based on your hands-on experience, does that approach make sense?

Geo

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Tue Aug 18 19:29:30 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 21:29:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] cam idle update
In-Reply-To: <812943.75354.qm@web59416.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <812943.75354.qm@web59416.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30908181829h360a83d8x15291ba2e1e73419@mail.gmail.com>

Even though the engine gets faster under acceleration, it is still burning
fuel that insists on burning at a constant rate. To get the maximum bang for
the buck, ignition must occur earlier and earlier in the cylinder's cycle
the faster the engine runs, so that the energy from combustion can
efficiently move the piston on it's down stroke. Without this advance,
ignition would occur too late to occur at the piston's optimal point for
combustion.
Advancing the spark in this way occurs through two mechanisms: vacuum and
mechanical. Vacuum is created as the engine runs. More acceleration = more
vacuum. The mechanical advance mechanism is in the distributor - weights
held by springs spin further away from the central shaft the faster the
distributor shaft rotates. This deflection moves to further advance the
spark.

The 'curve' is a chart showing how much deflection there is in a particular
mechanism for a given rev speed. Imagine plotting engine revs on the x-axis
and degrees of deflection on the y-axis: You'd get a curve. Change the
weights, or change the springs - or both - and you'd get a different curve.

If the supplier of your cam didn't specify a recurve of your distributor,
chances are you need not play with it. Just make sure it is working well.
Also, I'd recommend making sure to get right what you have now before you go
and change another dimension to the car. Madness lies ahead, otherwise...

Is your valve lash correct for your cam?
Is your timing right for your cam?
Is the dizzy fully operational (points good, good gap, HT, rotor and cap OK
etc.)
Do you have a good spark
Is fuel delivered OK
Are the carbs set up OK?
Is the coil OK?

Good luck,

Brian


On Tue, Aug 18, 2009 at 7:20 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> thanks everyone for responses.  I always feel better after getting feedback
> with any problem I bring to this place.  I loved the link someone sent that
> included exhaust sound from the S2 cam.  Also thanks tony for the links to
> tr-6 tuning information.  very helpful.
>
> I just got back from another run in
> the car and the problem is getting worse.LOL  It's now missing more at
> highway
> speed which it never did before.  Actually thats good news!  I feel its
> more
> fixable than thinking about changing cam timing or even going back to stock
> cam.
>
> With all new spark plug wires, coil, dizzy cap, rotor, points
> .................i never did anything to the dizzy.  It's cleaned up but
> stock.  I don't understand "curving" a dizzy.  How does curving a dizzy
> help?
> what does it do? and will that help idle?
>
> thanks again!
>
> gary n.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Tue Aug 18 20:46:22 2009
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 22:46:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
In-Reply-To: <495B2E027FD0439C89F494635691ED61@RossFamily>
References: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
	<200908181818.26647.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<495B2E027FD0439C89F494635691ED61@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <4A8B677E.5060204@optonline.net>

Wayne,

You can make your own. The purpose of these is to fill the void. I would 
use Halomar sealant. Make sure the paper gaskets are coated well. Proper 
bolt position & torque are critical to get a good seal. Two of these 
bolts intersect each other, so bolt length is important. The aluminum 
block is soft to don't be surprised if the bolts securing the oil pan 
strip. If this occurs get some /Keensert 
<http://automotivefasteners.thomasnet.com/viewitems/ls-and-accessories-thread-repair-systems-and-tools/keenserts-174-thinwall-inserts> 
/. I used these & never had a problem again.

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Aug 18 20:56:13 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 19:56:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] What's Under TR6 Luggage Rack Mounts?
Message-ID: <304561.24937.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I took my TR6 luggage rack off for painting. What goes under the mounts
when it goes back on? I don't see anything in the catalogs. I am thinking
about a neoprene or nylon washer.
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Aug 18 21:16:37 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 21:16:37 -0600
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
In-Reply-To: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
References: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <4A8B6E95.4030205@bradakis.com>

Oddly enough I was working on a TR6 motor earlier today.  The gasket set
had rubber blocks instead of wood or cork.   I prefer the old time wooden
wedges and a can of WellSeal - so it goes.

Whatever material they are a bit of a pain and take more time than you think
to get them installed.  As a bit of insurance, a bit of RTV silicone 
slathered
on the inside of the joint helps the sealing.  I said a "bit" not half a 
tube.  I've
worked on too many engines where some previous person thought that if a
little is good, more will be better.

mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 18 22:04:20 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 21:04:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] cam idle update
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30908181829h360a83d8x15291ba2e1e73419@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090819040417487.SLHT16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> Advancing the spark in this way occurs through two mechanisms: vacuum and
> mechanical. Vacuum is created as the engine runs. More acceleration = more
> vacuum. 

Er, well, actually it's the other way around.  Vacuum is created by closing
the throttles and impeding the flow of fuel/air into the engine; at maximum
acceleration (throttles wide) there is very nearly no vacuum at all and
hence no vacuum advance.  So, the vacuum advance (if present, most TR6
didn't have vacuum advance) is maximum at cruise (no acceleration at all)
and is primarily a device to improve fuel economy.

Randall

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Aug 19 00:42:41 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 00:42:41 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 control head?
Message-ID: <20090819064241.DC9542E06C@bradakis.com>

Thanks for all the responses.  Turns out that by the time I
got to the shop this morning Mike had already called TRF and
had a new unit on the way, so I didn't need to tell him about
all the options I had come up with.

mjb.

From oertwig at mac.com  Wed Aug 19 03:13:52 2009
From: oertwig at mac.com (Stephen Oertwig)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 05:13:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre technical publications on CD-Rom
Message-ID: <181139EE-4C91-4423-AE15-4A3B4E326A22@mac.com>

To everyone using Macs,

Here is a response from HMC about the compatibility problems with its  
CDs on Mac computers:

"The Heritage Motor Centre licenses its copyright archive material for  
inclusion into the CD ROMs but has no knowledge of, or responsibility  
for, the production of the software.  All CD ROMs sold from the  
Heritage Motor Centre Gift Shop do clearly state that they will not  
work on some operating systems, including VISTA.  We are advised by  
the software manufacturer that he is working on a solution, but that  
there is currently no fix available.


"The Heritage Motor Centre is concerned by the issues raised and is  
urgently working with Mark Greer towards a resolution.  In the  
meantime please contact support at markgreer.com for all software  
enquiries."



very sincerely,



Steve

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Wed Aug 19 05:52:56 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 07:52:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre technical publications on CD-Rom
In-Reply-To: <181139EE-4C91-4423-AE15-4A3B4E326A22@mac.com>
References: <181139EE-4C91-4423-AE15-4A3B4E326A22@mac.com>
Message-ID: <3B6097F9700F4EF28FEB004B9FDF12DC@CarlPC>

the address should be support at markgreer-associates.com
I have emailed about the VISTA incompatibility as well.

Carl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Oertwig" <oertwig at mac.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 5:13 AM
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre technical publications on CD-Rom


> To everyone using Macs,
> 
> Here is a response from HMC about the compatibility problems with its  
> CDs on Mac computers:
> 
> "The Heritage Motor Centre licenses its copyright archive material for  
> inclusion into the CD ROMs but has no knowledge of, or responsibility  
> for, the production of the software.  All CD ROMs sold from the  
> Heritage Motor Centre Gift Shop do clearly state that they will not  
> work on some operating systems, including VISTA.  We are advised by  
> the software manufacturer that he is working on a solution, but that  
> there is currently no fix available.
> 
> 
> "The Heritage Motor Centre is concerned by the issues raised and is  
> urgently working with Mark Greer towards a resolution.  In the  
> meantime please contact support at markgreer.com for all software  
> enquiries."
> 
> 
> 
> very sincerely,
> 
> 
> 
> Steve
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 19 07:27:22 2009
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (mgowen55 at hotmail.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 09:27:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Small tire changer -
In-Reply-To: <200908181809.19261.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <380-22009821819528282@M2W005.mail2web.com>
	<200908181809.19261.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <SNT120-DS758498DC2F180D79B18E7D6FE0@phx.gbl>

I had the same problem - nobody around here wanted to touch tube tires. I 
used the HF tool to mount new tires on Dayton wires with good results. I 
mounted the machine to a piece of scrap 4'x4'x3/4" plywood using stove 
bolts - stand on the plywood while wrestling with the tire/wheel. I disabled 
the dingus that is supposed to keep the wheel from turning because I didn't 
want to risk screwing up a spoke. Judicious use of tire spoons (or big 
screwdrivers) will work without requiring a lot of torque on the wheel (you 
basically use the machine to hold the wheel at a comfortable working height 
which in itself is a huge benefit). Getting the old tires off was a little 
bit of a struggle - the new ones went on painlessly. Use some soapy water as 
a lube. Mount the outside of the wheel down on the changer and work from the 
back side of the wheel to minimize risk of damaging the front of the wheel. 
Work slowly and carefully and you shouldn't have a problem.
(I also used HF's $12 bubble balancer - worked like a charm).
Glenn



>> Its getting harder and harder to find a shop that will change tires on
>> wire wheels, especially since I have to have tubes installed.  they are 
>> all
>> afraid of pinching the tube, or damaging the wire rim from the force of 
>> the
>> machine, or they just don't want to deal with anything smaller than 24
>> inches...so, I was considering using one of Harbor Freights small tire
>> changers. The tire in question is a 165/70 13 - Has anyone used one of
>> these manual tire changing tools and if so, how well did it work?  I am 
>> not
>> too concerned with balancing the tire in question because I will be using
>> it for the spare anyway.  I was also thinking that possibly a motorcycle
>> shop may be able to do the work since they regularly handle wire wheels
>> with tubes.  Anybody try that as well?  I would think that they might 
>> also
>> be able to balance it, although most of their wheels have a different 
>> hub,
>> probably without a hole in it, so I'm not sure how they balance 
>> motorcycle
>> wheels.
>>
>> The changer can be seen at:
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34542

From lbc.resto at verizon.net  Wed Aug 19 07:27:58 2009
From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 09:27:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre technical publications on CD-Rom
In-Reply-To: <181139EE-4C91-4423-AE15-4A3B4E326A22@mac.com>
References: <181139EE-4C91-4423-AE15-4A3B4E326A22@mac.com>
Message-ID: <09D6E31B4BD8493FB0BA65BA1F524BDC@RAS>

I got something similar back from them well over a year ago.  Vista has only
been out since Jan 2007, so I guess their idea of "urgently working" on it
is different to anyone else's.  Windows 7 will be out soon, so what are they
doing about that?

--
Ian
62 TR4

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Oertwig
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 5:14 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Heritage Motor Centre technical publications on CD-Rom

To everyone using Macs,

Here is a response from HMC about the compatibility problems with its  
CDs on Mac computers:

"The Heritage Motor Centre licenses its copyright archive material for  
inclusion into the CD ROMs but has no knowledge of, or responsibility  
for, the production of the software.  All CD ROMs sold from the  
Heritage Motor Centre Gift Shop do clearly state that they will not  
work on some operating systems, including VISTA.  We are advised by  
the software manufacturer that he is working on a solution, but that  
there is currently no fix available.


"The Heritage Motor Centre is concerned by the issues raised and is  
urgently working with Mark Greer towards a resolution.  In the  
meantime please contact support at markgreer.com for all software  
enquiries."



very sincerely,



Steve
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Wed Aug 19 07:33:07 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 09:33:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] What's Under TR6 Luggage Rack Mounts?
In-Reply-To: <304561.24937.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <304561.24937.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A8BFF13.3040704@earthlink.net>

I have the MG style rack and they are fitted rubber.

Joe

William Brewer wrote:
>      I took my TR6 luggage rack off for painting. What goes under the mounts
> when it goes back on? I don't see anything in the catalogs. I am thinking
> about a neoprene or nylon washer.
>      TIA,
>
>      Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spamiam at comcast.net  Wed Aug 19 07:58:02 2009
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 13:58:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Small tire changer -
In-Reply-To: <332157027.1166181250690248007.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <497775793.1166681250690282052.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Well, I just change the tires and tubes the old fashioned way using tire
irons.B  It is not that hard to do.



Spin balancing is hard to get done at regular tire shops, but some places are
aware how to do it with splined hubs.B  I had good luck with the old fashioned
wheel balancer.B  One of the bubble type balancers.B  I just tried to get the
bubble PERFECTLY centered.B  The glass has a little buls eye and when the
bubble is within the bullseye, then it was supposed to be "OK".B  I found that
"OK" was not good enough.B  But I had no vibration wien I got the bubble
perfectly centered.



-Tony

From rengrave at verizon.net  Wed Aug 19 08:10:21 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 10:10:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
In-Reply-To: <4A8B677E.5060204@optonline.net>
References: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily>
	<200908181818.26647.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<495B2E027FD0439C89F494635691ED61@RossFamily>
	<4A8B677E.5060204@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <01884BC654C6400AADE6A1FB59000AD5@RossFamily>

That is what I did yesterday, I made my own oak wedges, used black Permatex
Ultra Black Hi-temp RTV Silicone Gasket Maker. Smeared it on wood and paper
gaskets. It look like it will be ok.
The wood I used was dry and hopefully won't shrink because I coated it with
the sealer.

Next step is installing the front plate.
Thinking of using the yellow 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive on the
block side of the front plate gasket,
or should I just keep using the black RTV? The yellow 3M is good as keeping a
gasket in place, but the front plate
gasket has two locator pins so maybe RTV is the one to use.  Thoughts?

Then I can install the cam end plate to hold the cam in place.
Flip the engine over and install the new pistons.....
I am waitning for ne bronze thrust washers which should be in my hands
Friday.
For now I have standard washers installed to keep everything in place.
When I get the new thrust washers and remove the rear main end cap to install
them, I will only be able to
loosen caps #3 & #2, cap #1 is torqued and is now under the aluminum block at
the front of the engine.
I hope this is ok and won't harm the crank. Should I be concerned?

Wayne
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Mitch
  To: Wayne
  Cc: Bob ; Triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:46 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Block wedges


  Wayne,

  You can make your own. The purpose of these is to fill the void. I would use
Halomar sealant. Make sure the paper gaskets are coated well. Proper bolt
position & torque are critical to get a good seal. Two of these bolts
intersect each other, so bolt length is important. The aluminum block is soft
to don't be surprised if the bolts securing the oil pan strip. If this occurs
get some Keensert . I used these & never had a problem again.

--
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com  Wed Aug 19 08:11:27 2009
From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 10:11:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] Cam idle update
In-Reply-To: <mailman.24612.1250690296.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <OFAF7A4312.87877ADF-ON85257617.004D83FA-85257617.004DF560@gsk.com>

Randall wrote: 

Er, well, actually it's the other way around.  Vacuum is created by 
closing
the throttles and impeding the flow of fuel/air into the engine; at 
maximum
acceleration (throttles wide) there is very nearly no vacuum at all and
hence no vacuum advance.  So, the vacuum advance (if present, most TR6
didn't have vacuum advance) is maximum at cruise (no acceleration at all)
and is primarily a device to improve fuel economy.

You're right Randall (no surprise there!). I had it the other way around 
in my mind. 

Gary: here's a doc I couldn't find last night on tuning the distributor 
with useful info on re-curving etc.

http://www.teglerizer.com/mgstuff/lucastuning.pdf

Cheers,

Brian

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 19 08:28:38 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 07:28:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
In-Reply-To: <01884BC654C6400AADE6A1FB59000AD5@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <20090819142838628.TYLV8845@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> When I get the new thrust washers and remove the rear main end cap to
> install
> them, I will only be able to
> loosen caps #3 & #2, cap #1 is torqued and is now under the aluminum block
> at
> the front of the engine.
> I hope this is ok and won't harm the crank. Should I be concerned?

No need to loosen any of the caps, IMO.  Just remove the rear cap & let the
others support the crank.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 19 08:44:19 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 14:44:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <F0B0626ACC2E4775BC3FFFAB4FAE956C@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20090817180535482.YQYD29812@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
	<371582935.748441250606483810.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<F0B0626ACC2E4775BC3FFFAB4FAE956C@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W7F2879FCF62A8FCBBAC75E5FE0@phx.gbl>

>Indeed it should.  My apologies Phil, I misread it as "Allen wrench".

You guys know Allen Wrench?  Now there is a multifaceted guy.

Best regards,
Tom



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From rbtr3a at cox.net  Wed Aug 19 09:02:11 2009
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:02:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Off topic help needed Little League
Message-ID: <1769859725-1250694134-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1275939644-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I know this is not triumph or car related. However I'm going to solicit for help anyway.  Having two daughters who play Little League softball I know from experience just how expensive post season play can be.  This year I coached our 16 and under team to the state finals and was one game away from the championship game.  Playing that week of post season required a weeks vacation and hotel rooms for a week.  

But what I'm writting this about has nothing to do with me. Currently our Little league the Warner Robins LL has for the first time in LL history both the Girls fast pitch softball team and the Boys Baseball teams playing in the World Series at the same time on separate end of the Country. 

In 2007 our boys won the world series game beating Japan.
For the families that are attending this journey began a month ago. First with district then region and state play.    Many families have had no income and or have used all personal vacation supporting their children in this once and a life time dream. All  have had air fair, hotel, food and laundry expenses for a month. Our league pays for the players and the coaches expenses. However, never in our wildest dream could we envision both teams playing at the same time.  Our league has just barely recovered from the 07 world Championship team.  

With all that said we/ I am soliciting donations in any amount for the Warner Robins American Little League. . If you have ever played and or, coached you know the benefit this program invests in the lives of these youths. 

If you feel led to contribute please send your check payable to the "WRALL" if you send your check to my address I will hand deliver them and make sure we are well represented as a whole. 

My address 
Ronnie Babbitt
104 Crestridge Ct
Centerville Ga
31028     
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Wed Aug 19 09:09:27 2009
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 11:09:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] 2009  Monterey Historic Races info & photos.
Message-ID: <8CBEEF62DFC990D-7E4-4BDF@WEBMAIL-MY29.sysops.aol.com>

Hi all,



I was fortunate to attend the Monterey Historic Races last Saturday and?couldn't help but take?lots and lots?of photos. 



If interested,?many?edited (quickly) shots?are online for viewing, at:



http://www.flickr.com/photos/15729236 at N05/sets/72157621950598061/



A few quick highlights, with a Triumph bias...



- In the first race, Group 1, a 1936 Triumph was announced and?listed, but I never saw it on the track.?Not sure, maybe it?scratched or DNFed. However, I might just have missed it?while?moving around trying to find? a good location for photos (missed the Group 2?race, entirely). 



- There was a?nice 1955 TR2 (#29) in the Group 3 race.?Managed to get?a handful of photos of it in action



- A number of TR-powered Morgans appeared in Group 4 and?one of them?won the race (#711) by one of the largest margins of the day. Greg Solow (TR-powered Morgan tuner/racer and owner of The Engine Room in Santa Cruz) was driving another of the Morgans. 



- A really pretty 1956 Devin-Triumph (#189) ran in the Group 5 race. 



- A?Group 44?1969 GT6+ -?a barn find fully?restored by the?staff of Classic Motorsport magazine?-?was on display in the Paddock on Saturday. It ran on Sunday (I wasn't able to be there both days, so no I got on-track photos of it.)? 



- Porsche was the featured marque and?they took the opportunity to introduce the new Porsche Panamera Gran Turismo (a four door sedan!) which will go on sale in N. America in mid-October. There were numerous Porsches in the races, of course... As well as many more displayed in the Paddock and?around the in-field. 



- Stirling Moss was driving a black Lola (#7) in the?Group 5 race. Derek Bell?in a Porsche 917K and?Brian Redman (who eventually won) in a Porsche 908 competed in Group 7.?Actor Patrick Dempsey drove one of the Mazda champ cars in Group 8 race. Reportedly comedian Jerry Seinfeld drove on Sat., too, but wasn't announced or listed in the program. Apparently it's not uncommon for celebrities to drive under another name and not be announced. 



- There was some minor paint swapping in one or two of the heats. A few mechanical problems sent cars off the road. Average winning speeds ranged from just under 60 mph (Group 1) to nearly 95 mph (Group 8).? 



- Steve Earle/General Racing Ltd. -?the organizer of the Historics for the past 36 years -?is stepping down and handing over the reins of the 2010 event to SCRAMP (Sports?Car Racing Assoc. of?the Monterey Peninsula). ?



Cheers! 


Alan Myers, Photographer
San Jose, California
408 803-5550
amfoto1 at aol.com
www.amfoto1.printroom.com

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Wed Aug 19 09:27:06 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 10:27:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] Block wedges
References: <64BF772F024A4B78AE3ACD3399C677FB@RossFamily><200908181818.26647.yellowtr@adelphia.net><495B2E027FD0439C89F494635691ED61@RossFamily><4A8B677E.5060204@optonline.net>
	<01884BC654C6400AADE6A1FB59000AD5@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <475B7DD5945D4713B9E13DFE62FE4A58@KARL>

> I made my own oak wedges, <snip>
> The wood I used was dry and hopefully won't shrink because I coated it 
> with
> the sealer.

Oil will get into the wood and keep it from shrinking anyway.



> Next step is installing the front plate.
> Thinking of using the yellow 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive on 
> the
> block side of the front plate gasket,

If you really feel the need to glue the gasket into place, Permatex High 
Tack does that and is easy to clean off next time, as well as easy to clean 
off any squeeze-out.  Aviation Permatex will "glue" it on too, though it 
dries more slowly.  If you just want to add a sealer to the gasket, Hylomar 
will be fine.

Karl 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 19 09:48:35 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:48:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] Spanish assistance.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W385C92889E0B2A49AC83B8E5FE0@phx.gbl>

Try this.

" Oye Yolanda, chupa mi verga."

Best regards,
Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on
Facebook.
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:
WL:en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 19 09:51:42 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:51:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Cleaning tip.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W50796645DA097D6782695EE5FE0@phx.gbl>

Some thing  stumbled upon some time ago is how to clean the wrinkle powder
coat/paint on my TR3A gauge panel.  Spray a clean rag with WD40 and wipe
carefully.  Apparently the WD40 pulls the dirt out of the wrinkles.

Best regards,
Tom


_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on
Facebook.
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:
WL:en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009

From mmarr at notwires.com  Wed Aug 19 10:25:34 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 11:25:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
References: <20090817180535482.YQYD29812@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com><371582935.748441250606483810.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><F0B0626ACC2E4775BC3FFFAB4FAE956C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BAY110-W7F2879FCF62A8FCBBAC75E5FE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B96A3D4797F34D559B0957421BB07F94@trigeni.com>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3


> >Indeed it should.  My apologies Phil, I misread it as "Allen wrench".
> 
> You guys know Allen Wrench?  Now there is a multifaceted guy.
> 
> Best regards,
> Tom



Yeah, but I thought he was a little screwy.

Mike

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Aug 19 11:14:45 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 17:14:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Cleaning tip.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W50796645DA097D6782695EE5FE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <533586025.1292391250702085163.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "tom white" <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> Some thing  stumbled upon some time ago is how to clean the wrinkle
> powder
> coat/paint on my TR3A gauge panel.  Spray a clean rag with WD40 and
> wipe
> carefully.  Apparently the WD40 pulls the dirt out of the wrinkles.

Rinse with distilled water?

I've been thinking about trying distilled water to remove the rainwater streaks on the Seven dashboard.  No wiping, just letting the distilled water run off.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Wed Aug 19 11:26:44 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 13:26:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Small tire changer -
In-Reply-To: <0016e6d7e694791e26047181e875@google.com>
References: <200908191213.00749.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<0016e6d7e694791e26047181e875@google.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30908191026y2c56e6f7s486a6337ddc6a3bc@mail.gmail.com>

In the link I sent earlier is the tip to, once you have broken the bead,
slip a plastic trash bag over the wheel rim. The plastic will ease the
effort to remove the tire.

brian

On Aug 19, 2009 12:13pm, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:
> On Wednesday 19 August 2009 05:50:12 am you wrote:
>
>
> > Bob,
>
>
> > If you have exposed studs in your garage or basement, you could easily
put
>
>
> > together something like this to break the beads:
>
>
> >
>
>
> > http://www.clarity.net/adam/images/bike/tirechange/mbarassy.jpg
>
>
> >
>
>
> Brian,
>
>
>
>
>
> The HF changer works just great on breaking the beads. The problem I had
was
>
>
> getting the bottom bead off of the top rim with the tool provided. I just
didnt
>
>
> have enough strength to get it off the rim. I either need a longer spoon
or
>
>
> something.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Aug 19 11:45:39 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 13:45:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR  need help with at 64 Spitfire MK1 Hardtop
Message-ID: <DEBA3C86164E4B6485FB91339FDD9E6D@DCS78M81>

I'm forwarding this to the list. Can anyone help?
TIA
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Jordan Christie
To: tfansher at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 12:34 PM
Subject: 64 Spitfire MK1 Hardtop


Hello, I live in Pensacola.  I'm trying to track down a hard top for my 64 Mk1
Spitfire.  Do you know if anyone in your club has this?  If not where would
you recommend checking?  I have found several UK suppliers but I'm having
trouble finding ones stateside.

Thanks,
Jordan

From mathews at uga.edu  Wed Aug 19 13:50:49 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:50:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  Small tire changer -
In-Reply-To: <a38798b30908191026y2c56e6f7s486a6337ddc6a3bc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <200908191213.00749.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<0016e6d7e694791e26047181e875@google.com>
	<a38798b30908191026y2c56e6f7s486a6337ddc6a3bc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A8C5799.8070603@uga.edu>

That same trick (plastic bag) can be used to get the bead over the wheel 
as well.

Doug

Brian Jones wrote:
> In the link I sent earlier is the tip to, once you have broken the bead,
> slip a plastic trash bag over the wheel rim. The plastic will ease the
> effort to remove the tire.
>
> brian

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Aug 19 13:51:45 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:51:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off topic help needed Little League
References: <1769859725-1250694134-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1275939644-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <533AA4C870A0484EAA295B5EF37D70CD@fred8kwiskhcfu>

O/K "Triumph" owners, now lets go full speed ahead with help for such a 
great cause, "she" has sent a check.  :)  :)  FT
=======================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <rbtr3a at cox.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 11:02 AM
Subject: [TR] Off topic help needed Little League


>I know this is not triumph or car related. However I'm going to solicit for 
>help anyway.  Having two daughters who play Little League softball I know 
>from experience just how expensive post season play can be.  This year I 
>coached our 16 and under team to the state finals and was one game away 
>from the championship game.  Playing that week of post season required a 
>weeks vacation and hotel rooms for a week.
>
> But what I'm writting this about has nothing to do with me. Currently our 
> Little league the Warner Robins LL has for the first time in LL history 
> both the Girls fast pitch softball team and the Boys Baseball teams 
> playing in the World Series at the same time on separate end of the 
> Country.
>
> In 2007 our boys won the world series game beating Japan.
> For the families that are attending this journey began a month ago. First 
> with district then region and state play.    Many families have had no 
> income and or have used all personal vacation supporting their children in 
> this once and a life time dream. All  have had air fair, hotel, food and 
> laundry expenses for a month. Our league pays for the players and the 
> coaches expenses. However, never in our wildest dream could we envision 
> both teams playing at the same time.  Our league has just barely recovered 
> from the 07 world Championship team.
>
> With all that said we/ I am soliciting donations in any amount for the 
> Warner Robins American Little League. . If you have ever played and or, 
> coached you know the benefit this program invests in the lives of these 
> youths.
>
> If you feel led to contribute please send your check payable to the 
> "WRALL" if you send your check to my address I will hand deliver them and 
> make sure we are well represented as a whole.
>
> My address
> Ronnie Babbitt
> 104 Crestridge Ct
> Centerville Ga
> 31028
> Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Aug 19 14:48:36 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 20:48:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Off topic help needed Little League
In-Reply-To: <533AA4C870A0484EAA295B5EF37D70CD@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <1889638512.2018771250714916465.JavaMail.root@sz0048a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Check is in the mail.. Good luck Centerville!!!

Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "fred thomas" <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
To: rbtr3a at cox.net, "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 3:51:45 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [TR] Off topic help needed Little League

O/K "Triumph" owners, now lets go full speed ahead with help for such a
great cause, "she" has sent a check. B :) B :) B FT
=============================================================================
==========================
----- Original Message -----
From: <rbtr3a at cox.net>
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 11:02 AM
Subject: [TR] Off topic help needed Little League


>I know this is not triumph or car related. However I'm going to solicit for
>help anyway. B Having two daughters who play Little League softball I know
>from experience just how expensive post season play can be. B This year I
>coached our 16 and under team to the state finals and was one game away
>from the championship game. B Playing that week of post season required a
>weeks vacation and hotel rooms for a week.
>
> But what I'm writting this about has nothing to do with me. Currently our
> Little league the Warner Robins LL has for the first time in LL history
> both the Girls fast pitch softball team and the Boys Baseball teams
> playing in the World Series at the same time on separate end of the
> Country.
>
> In 2007 our boys won the world series game beating Japan.
> For the families that are attending this journey began a month ago. First
> with district then region and state play. B  B Many families have had no
> income and or have used all personal vacation supporting their children in
> this once and a life time dream. All B have had air fair, hotel, food and
> laundry expenses for a month. Our league pays for the players and the
> coaches expenses. However, never in our wildest dream could we envision
> both teams playing at the same time. B Our league has just barely recovered
> from the 07 world Championship team.
>
> With all that said we/ I am soliciting donations in any amount for the
> Warner Robins American Little League. . If you have ever played and or,
> coached you know the benefit this program invests in the lives of these
> youths.
>
> If you feel led to contribute please send your check payable to the
> "WRALL" if you send your check to my address I will hand deliver them and
> make sure we are well represented as a whole.
>
> My address
> Ronnie Babbitt
> 104 Crestridge Ct
> Centerville Ga
> 31028
> Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed
> _______________________________________________

From bjzwissler at gmail.com  Wed Aug 19 16:05:14 2009
From: bjzwissler at gmail.com (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 18:05:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4/4A/6 Door Window Glass Channel Felt
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770908182034m4339425do221ec6ef80cd9eba@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4A8A1654.6030100@gmail.com>
	<6fa72a770908182034m4339425do221ec6ef80cd9eba@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A8C771A.9030001@gmail.com>

  I've received several good responses to my request for advice on 
replacement door window felt and am not surprised that listers have 
found ways to avoid paying $80 each for entire new assemblies.  It looks 
like the leading candidates are generic window felt from JC Whitney or 
similar sources or Bob Danielson's very well documented method of using 
the "loop" or "soft" side of self-adhesive velcro.  I haven't decided 
which approach I'll use yet, but both appear to work well.

Thanks for all your help.

Ben.....



Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 8/18/2009 11:34 PM, Chris Simo wrote:
> I bought channel stock from jc whitney last year and reriveted mine.  
> works great and very cheap
>
> On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 10:47 PM, Ben Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com 
> <mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Hello,
>
>     I'm preparing to refit the windows and mechanisms to my TR4A
>     doors.  The felt/rubber inserted in the front and rear vertical
>     glass channels is disintegrating.  I've searched all the major
>     suppliers and most all want to supply a complete new channel for
>     ~$80 each.  $300+ for all four channels when all I need is the
>     felt seems a bit excessive.  Looking at old catalogs there seems
>     to be listings for just the felt, but I can't find a current
>     listing.  Rimmer Bros has a vague listing that might be just the
>     felt, but its not clear.
>
>     Has anyone successfully replaced just the felt with any success?
>      Is so, source and part number, please?
>
>     Thanks, Ben.......
>
>     -- 
>     Ben Zwissler
>     bjzwissler at gmail.com <mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
>     Columbus, IN
>     1966 Triumph TR4A
>     1973 MG Midget
>     1980 Triumph TR8
>     2007 Mazda RX8
>     2002 Yamaha FZ1
>     2003 Honda ST1300
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>     http://www.vtr.org <http://www.vtr.org/>
>
>
>     Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
>     http://www.team.net/archive

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Wed Aug 19 16:37:44 2009
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 22:37:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] Off topic help needed Little League
In-Reply-To: <1769859725-1250694134-cardhu_blackberry.rim.net-copy_sent_folder-228864048-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1769859725-1250694134-cardhu_blackberry.rim.net-copy_sent_folder-228864048-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <268933493-1250721467-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-255937662-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I forgot to mention the girls play for the World Championship game tonight at 7pm est. On ESPN2
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

-----Original Message-----
From: rbtr3a at cox.net

Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 15:02:11 
To: Triumphs<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Off topic help needed Little League


I know this is not triumph or car related. However I'm going to solicit for help anyway.  Having two daughters who play Little League softball I know from experience just how expensive post season play can be.  This year I coached our 16 and under team to the state finals and was one game away from the championship game.  Playing that week of post season required a weeks vacation and hotel rooms for a week.  

But what I'm writting this about has nothing to do with me. Currently our Little league the Warner Robins LL has for the first time in LL history both the Girls fast pitch softball team and the Boys Baseball teams playing in the World Series at the same time on separate end of the Country. 

In 2007 our boys won the world series game beating Japan.
For the families that are attending this journey began a month ago. First with district then region and state play.    Many families have had no income and or have used all personal vacation supporting their children in this once and a life time dream. All  have had air fair, hotel, food and laundry expenses for a month. Our league pays for the players and the coaches expenses. However, never in our wildest dream could we envision both teams playing at the same time.  Our league has just barely recovered from the 07 world Championship team.  

With all that said we/ I am soliciting donations in any amount for the Warner Robins American Little League. . If you have ever played and or, coached you know the benefit this program invests in the lives of these youths. 

If you feel led to contribute please send your check payable to the "WRALL" if you send your check to my address I will hand deliver them and make sure we are well represented as a whole. 

My address 
Ronnie Babbitt
104 Crestridge Ct
Centerville Ga
31028     
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Wed Aug 19 17:14:12 2009
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 19:14:12 EDT
Subject: [TR] What's Under TR6 Luggage Rack Mounts?
Message-ID: <c6c.53e2027c.37bde144@aol.com>

Bill,
My 71 TR6 has what appears to be nylon discs which are not round, but cut  
to the shape of the rack feet. Don't know if they're original, but they seem 
to  fit well and keep the rack off the paint.
Eric
71 TR6
 
 
>I took my TR6 luggage rack off for painting. What goes under the  mounts
>when it goes back on? I don't see anything in the catalogs. I am  thinking
>about a neoprene or nylon washer.
>    TIA,

Bill in Tehachapi

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Aug 19 17:58:50 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 19:58:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <B96A3D4797F34D559B0957421BB07F94@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <4A8C597A.19428.219F5367@localhost>

On 19 Aug 2009 at 11:25, Michael Marr wrote:

> > You guys know Allen Wrench?  Now there is a multifaceted guy.
>
> Yeah, but I thought he was a little screwy.

Oh dear.  Mike M. will surely chide me offlist whether I do or don't 
reply to this.  I considered just bolting but I'm such a nut for 
threads like this that I couldn't resist.

Allen Wrench is so effective because he always gets inside the head 
of any situation.


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Aug 19 18:17:03 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 18:17:03 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <4A8C597A.19428.219F5367@localhost>
References: <4A8C597A.19428.219F5367@localhost>
Message-ID: <4A8C95FF.7010402@bradakis.com>

This is getting out of hand.  It might be time to put a hex on this topic.

mjb.

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 19 18:20:36 2009
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 20:20:36 -0400
Subject: [TR] What's Under TR6 Luggage Rack Mounts?
In-Reply-To: <304561.24937.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <304561.24937.qm@web83306.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <54B1E99979CA4969ABF0EEF07BE2CBAB@Scott>

Bill:

I just cut 4 pieces of rubber to fit the shape of the base of the rack to
act as a gasket.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2009 10:56 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] What's Under TR6 Luggage Rack Mounts?

     I took my TR6 luggage rack off for painting. What goes under the mounts
when it goes back on? I don't see anything in the catalogs. I am thinking
about a neoprene or nylon washer.
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From oertwig at mac.com  Wed Aug 19 18:54:54 2009
From: oertwig at mac.com (Stephen Oertwig)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 20:54:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smoke gone
Message-ID: <729851B8-600B-4305-8B4D-53E55E259649@mac.com>

All,

Tonight's experiment with the smokin' GT6 seems to have ruled out a  
blown head gasket.

When I started up tonight, there was not any smoke.  The brake fluid  
reservoir had gone down some, so I must continue to investigate the  
problem.

Then, I need to decide to rebuilt the brake booster, or leave it in  
place and reroute the brake lines, or take it out completely.

If I plug the intake manifold inlet, will there be any problems?

very sincerely,

Steve

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Aug 19 19:11:31 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 20:11:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4/4A/6 Door Window Glass Channel Felt
Message-ID: <3589061.56204.1250730691541.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net>

Use Bob's, I did it last winter on my 72 TR6 and it was a no brainer.  Lined the doors with Fat Mat with the money I saved buying the felt at Walmart.

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6

On Aug 19, 2009, Ben Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com> wrote: 

I've received several good responses to my request for advice on 
replacement door window felt and am not surprised that listers have 
found ways to avoid paying $80 each for entire new assemblies. It looks 
like the leading candidates are generic window felt from JC Whitney or 
similar sources or Bob Danielson's very well documented method of using 
the "loop" or "soft" side of self-adhesive velcro. I haven't decided 
which approach I'll use yet, but both appear to work well.

Thanks for all your help.

Ben.....



Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at gmail.com
Columbus, IN
1966 Triumph TR4A
1973 MG Midget
1980 Triumph TR8
2007 Mazda RX8
2002 Yamaha FZ1
2003 Honda ST1300


On 8/18/2009 11:34 PM, Chris Simo wrote:
> I bought channel stock from jc whitney last year and reriveted mine. 
> works great and very cheap
>
> On Mon, Aug 17, 2009 at 10:47 PM, Ben Zwissler <bjzwissler at gmail.com 
> <mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm preparing to refit the windows and mechanisms to my TR4A
> doors. The felt/rubber inserted in the front and rear vertical
> glass channels is disintegrating. I've searched all the major
> suppliers and most all want to supply a complete new channel for
> ~$80 each. $300+ for all four channels when all I need is the
> felt seems a bit excessive. Looking at old catalogs there seems
> to be listings for just the felt, but I can't find a current
> listing. Rimmer Bros has a vague listing that might be just the
> felt, but its not clear.
>
> Has anyone successfully replaced just the felt with any success?
> Is so, source and part number, please?
>
> Thanks, Ben.......
>
> -- 
> Ben Zwissler
> bjzwissler at gmail.com <mailto:bjzwissler at gmail.com>
> Columbus, IN
> 1966 Triumph TR4A
> 1973 MG Midget
> 1980 Triumph TR8
> 2007 Mazda RX8
> 2002 Yamaha FZ1
> 2003 Honda ST1300
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org <http://www.vtr.org/>
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net <mailto:Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 19 19:23:28 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 18:23:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Smoke gone
In-Reply-To: <729851B8-600B-4305-8B4D-53E55E259649@mac.com>
Message-ID: <20090820012329735.FALF6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> If I plug the intake manifold inlet, will there be any problems?

Should be no problem at all, other than the brake pedal being somewhat
firmer than before (assuming the booster was working).

Randall

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Aug 19 19:34:24 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 20:34:24 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] rebuilt fuel pumps -TR6
Message-ID: <15391936.56750.1250732064616.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net>

I had my original AC pump rebuilt by TRF for $99, used my discount.

Back in a week, looks brand new, works like it used to in a previous life.

Craig H. Nicholls
1972 Triumph TR6

On Aug 15, 2009, Ron L'Herault <lherault at bu.edu> wrote: 

I suspect that my fuel pump is leaking gas into the oil sump Oil level went
up) and will need replacing. I'm thinking of a Roadster Factory rebuilt
unit. Does anyone have any feedback about these pumps? Do they use
diaphragm material that will hold up to modern day gasoline additives?

Thanks,

Ron L
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://www.team.net/archive

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Wed Aug 19 22:07:58 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2009 22:07:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] TTA STTAG summits Pikes Peak, 14110 feel above sea level
Message-ID: <4A8CCC1E.3040005@triumphstagclub.org>

Hello All,
Today 19 August 2009, John Macartney driving the TTA STTAG known as 
"Uncle Jack", lead by Glenn Merrell driving a 1973 Stag with Paul Lugo 
riding in the passenger seat, reached the 14110 foot (14115 feet in 
actuality)  summit of Pikes Peak Colorado at approximately 10:00 am 
Mountain time.

The STTAG behaved perfectly (actually both Stags performed admirably), 
the temperature needle never reaching midrange, the ZS carburetors 
providing constant power band all the way to the top of the Colorado 14er.
This was after a hot drive from Amarillo to Raton NM  for John the day 
before, then a drive from Raton NM to Colorado Springs for a night over. 
A pleasurable change was dry temperatures in the 50's F as opposed to  
lows of 80's.  I'll get some photos up on FLICKR in the next day or two.

John and the TTA Stag are now in Lafayette Colorado where the 6000 mile 
service list is being performed right around 8000 miles completed.

Next event is a Meet and Greet with British Motoring Club of Northern 
Colorado, Sunday the 23rd of August.
If you are a Colorado British Car enthusiast, come on by!!

We need caravaners to travel with John and the STTAG from Ft. Collins to 
Omaha the 24th - 26th with a stop over at Pioneer Village near Kearney 
NE the 24th.  If you have never been to Pioneer Village, you are missing 
a huge collection of cars, tractors, airplanes, and all sorts of 
Americana history.

Cheers!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From aribert at c3net.net  Thu Aug 20 04:49:35 2009
From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 06:49:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] SECOND REQUEST Need page scanned from TR6 or GTB Bentley manual
Message-ID: <4A8D2A3F.746C5EC8@c3net.net>

A week ago I asked if anyone would scan a page from the Bently manual
showing the water flow diagram thru the 6 cyl engine (or describe the
water flow thru the water pump housing).  ANYONE?

The pump housing has 2 parallel chambers. I **think** the coolant flow
is something like this:  water from the lower rad port enters the
housing, housing splits the water into the 2 chambers.  Rear chamber
pumps into the heater core and bleeds off to the thermostat chamber. 
Forward housing pumps coolant into the head/block and the coolant
returns to the adjacent port which joins the thermostat chamber.

Is this description correct?

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug 20 06:02:11 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 08:02:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] What's Under TR6 Luggage Rack Mounts?
In-Reply-To: <c6c.53e2027c.37bde144@aol.com>
References: <c6c.53e2027c.37bde144@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DB8837E8C30F45828865EDB42AEB6820@CarlPC>

When I get to that point - I will be putting some of the 3M Scotchguard 
Paint Protection film under the footpads.   I have it as a bug shield on our 
cars.  The local installer said that he might be able to get me scraps but I 
have seen headlamp kits that could be used. 
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Scotchgard-PPF/Home/   The 
advantage - when the rack is removed for any reason it will 1) not be 
visible and 2) won't leave a discoloration where the rubber pads were 
sitting (which is what happened to me when I took the car off the road 10 
years ago).

Carl

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ElangTR4 at aol.com>
To: <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] What's Under TR6 Luggage Rack Mounts?


>
>>I took my TR6 luggage rack off for painting. What goes under the  mounts
>>when it goes back on? I don't see anything in the catalogs. I am  thinking
>>about a neoprene or nylon washer.
>>    TIA,
>
> Bill in Tehachapi

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu Aug 20 07:07:17 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 09:07:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wedge Tires?
Message-ID: <d0d.5cbe08ad.37bea485@aol.com>

Hi Guys,
Need new tires on all three of my Wedges, the two TR7's and the TR8.   
Seems that the supply & selection of the original size,185 70 13, has all  but 
dried up.  They can still be had but not in any brands I would  want.  So 
perhaps it is time to deviate from stock.  Anyone have any  recommendations of 
a modern size that fits the stock rims?
Thanks,
Darrell

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu Aug 20 07:51:19 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 08:51:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
References: <4A8C597A.19428.219F5367@localhost>
Message-ID: <200908200853849.SM06692@HomeOffLMMarr2>

>> > You guys know Allen Wrench?  Now there is a multifaceted guy.
>>
>> Yeah, but I thought he was a little screwy.
> 
> Oh dear.  Mike M. will surely chide me offlist whether I do or don't 
> reply to this.  

Washer mean, I might chide you?

Mike

From mmarr at notwires.com  Thu Aug 20 07:58:46 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 08:58:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
References: <4A8C597A.19428.219F5367@localhost> <4A8C95FF.7010402@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <200908200853192.SM06692@HomeOffLMMarr2>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2009 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3


> This is getting out of hand.  It might be time to put a hex on this topic.
>
> mjb.

I tried to come up with a Whitworth pun, but I could not find a whit of 
humor worth writing about.

And anyway, Mr Bradakis's note has put a damper on the whole topic...

Mike 

From peter at nosimport.com  Thu Aug 20 08:04:05 2009
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 09:04:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <200908200853192.SM06692@HomeOffLMMarr2>
References: <4A8C597A.19428.219F5367@localhost> <4A8C95FF.7010402@bradakis.com>
	<200908200853192.SM06692@HomeOffLMMarr2>
Message-ID: <200908200704348.SM01560@TOSHIBA-USER3.nosimport.com>

At 08:58 AM 8/20/2009, Michael Marr wrote:

>>This is getting out of hand.  It might be time to put a hex on this topic.
>>
>>mjb.
>
>I tried to come up with a Whitworth pun, but I could not find a whit 
>of humor worth writing about.
>
>And anyway, Mr Bradakis's note has put a damper on the whole topic...
>
>Mike _______________________________________________

I thought putting a damper on WAS the whole topic....

Peter C 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 20 08:27:19 2009
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 10:27:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] List Donation
References: <c6c.53e2027c.37bde144@aol.com>
	<DB8837E8C30F45828865EDB42AEB6820@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <932AC4822A6B4EABBA79E3D6F35AE714@Edscomputer>

List,

Don't forget to donate to Mark occasionally, or even often!

There's a link at the bottom of every message to make it easy for you.

Ed Woods

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 20 08:34:31 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:34:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rear shock mounting - TR2/3
In-Reply-To: <B96A3D4797F34D559B0957421BB07F94@trigeni.com>
References: <20090817180535482.YQYD29812@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com><371582935.748441250606483810.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net><F0B0626ACC2E4775BC3FFFAB4FAE956C@jdnet.deere.com>
	<BAY110-W7F2879FCF62A8FCBBAC75E5FE0@phx.gbl>
	<B96A3D4797F34D559B0957421BB07F94@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W45B9F7487913580289DAFBE5FD0@phx.gbl>

> Yeah, but I thought he was a little screwy.

Some people have described him as bent.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on
Facebook.
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:
WL:en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009

From rbtr3a at cox.net  Thu Aug 20 09:24:26 2009
From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 15:24:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] Little League Champs
Message-ID: <1500629496-1250781883-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1029105458-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

The Warner Robins LL girls softball team. Won the World Series Game last night 14 to 2.   

Thank you to those who responded to the donation call for their  expenses.  Once the checks are collected I will take them to the Association. I will make a big presenters check on behalf of the Triumph Community.  

I know we all spend thousands of dollars on our LBC an investment that usually sit in our garages.  But your donation are in the lives of these  youth  will produce memories that last for ever. 

So on behalf  of the Warner robins Little league we thank you. 

One down one to go the Boys start world series play tomorrow

Thank you 
Ronnie Babbitt   
Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed

From rengrave at verizon.net  Thu Aug 20 09:26:00 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 11:26:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bronze bushing in flywheel
Message-ID: <76DBFBFD721848DAAA2E160FE300BB0A@RossFamily>

The bronze bushing in the center of my gearbox on my TR6:
The ID is loose fiiting on the shaft of the gearbox.
The ID of the bushing is .515", the shaft is .5".
Is this to sloppy?
The manual tells me that the bushing should be loose fitting in the flywheel.
Should it also be loose on the gearbox shaft?
This bushing is only a guide to keep the gearbox shaft centered for the
clutch, correct?
I have a new "magic clutch kit" I'm installing and was just wondering if I
should buy another bushing?

Also the clutch contact surface on the flywheel is rusty, if I just sand it
with a 320 grit paper using a vibrating sander
to get the surface clean, is this the way to go. Or should I get it machined
like a brake rotor?
I currently have the flywheel off during my engine rebuild and would like to
clean it the correct way.


Thanks,

Wayne
1973 TR6

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug 20 09:33:38 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 08:33:38 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wedge Tires?
In-Reply-To: <d0d.5cbe08ad.37bea485@aol.com>
References: <d0d.5cbe08ad.37bea485@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A93D4D9A07104B02863E786CD822B571@joepentiumnew>

Darrell,
If you get some 15" wheels the selection goes up algebraically. The
Panasports I got from Ted S. work very well.  Mounting low profile tires
will retain the speedometer calibration as long as you use ones with the
came circumference.

Joe 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 6:07 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Wedge Tires?

Hi Guys,
Need new tires on all three of my Wedges, the two TR7's and the TR8.   
Seems that the supply & selection of the original size,185 70 13, has all
but 
dried up.  They can still be had but not in any brands I would  want.  So 
perhaps it is time to deviate from stock.  Anyone have any  recommendations
of 
a modern size that fits the stock rims?
Thanks,
Darrell
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug 20 09:38:55 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 11:38:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill Opening
Message-ID: <AC7771FFF1C9402FB2540681B77673BC@CarlPC>

Is there anyone that could measure the TR3A grille opening or a well-fitting
Grille
I guess at the point where the screw holes are on the 'mouth'.

Widest point across the top
Tallest point at the middle

I am trying to figure out what is out of whack on mine.

Thanks
C

From tom628 at verizon.net  Thu Aug 20 09:53:17 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 11:53:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] SECOND REQUEST Need page scanned from TR6 or GTB Bentley
 manual
References: <4A8D2A3F.746C5EC8@c3net.net>
Message-ID: <370A35426DCA4D319178A884EE600B66@Toms>

I'll  paraphrase the flow description in Haynes. (I couldn't find anything 
in Bently, and I can't scan).  So:

   Cold water circulates up the lower rad. hose to the pump, then around the 
cyl. block.  Then up into the head and around the combustion spaces and 
valve seats; then, when the eng. is up to temp., out the cyl. head, past the 
open t'stat into the upper rad. hose and into the radiator.
It travels down the rad. and then out and up the lower hose again.

Circulation  thru the heater is not addressed, but  a diagram of the system 
shows water circulating from the pump to the rear of the head where part of 
the flow goes from the rearmost  outlet thru the heater hose, heater, and 
back thru the 2nd hose to the return at the lower part of the pump.
Part of the flow is also shunted to the intake manifold cooling/heating 
pipe.

I hope that's of some help.

Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "aribert" <aribert at c3net.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 6:49 AM
Subject: [TR] SECOND REQUEST Need page scanned from TR6 or GTB Bentley 
manual


>A week ago I asked if anyone would scan a page from the Bently manual
> showing the water flow diagram thru the 6 cyl engine (or describe the
> water flow thru the water pump housing).  ANYONE?
>
> The pump housing has 2 parallel chambers. I **think** the coolant flow
> is something like this:  water from the lower rad port enters the
> housing, housing splits the water into the 2 chambers.  Rear chamber
> pumps into the heater core and bleeds off to the thermostat chamber.
> Forward housing pumps coolant into the head/block and the coolant
> returns to the adjacent port which joins the thermostat chamber.
>
> Is this description correct?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 20 10:14:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 09:14:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Bronze bushing in flywheel
In-Reply-To: <76DBFBFD721848DAAA2E160FE300BB0A@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <20090820161402912.VTLF6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> The ID of the bushing is .515", the shaft is .5".
> Is this to sloppy?

Sounds kind of loose to me; but I don't have one handy to check.

> Should it also be loose on the gearbox shaft?

Yes, there should be some clearance to the shaft.

> This bushing is only a guide to keep the gearbox shaft centered for the
> clutch, correct?

Well, yeah, but there can be significant side-loading on that shaft in lower
gears.

> I have a new "magic clutch kit" I'm installing and was just wondering if I
> should buy another bushing?

Seems like a good idea to me; especially if you've had clutch problems in
the past.

Note that the bearing(s) used in the 'Magic' kit is stiffer than the stock
bearing and will frequently slip against the pressure plate (resulting in
premature wear and sometimes horrible squealing noises) unless additional
modifications are made.  See
http://tinyurl.com/nkl4no
for more info.

Also, make sure the "dowel bolts" are present and not substituted with
ordinary bolts.  They should have shanks long enough to penetrate most of
the way through both the bellhousing and rear plate; and the shanks should
fit very snugly in the holes.  Ordinary bolts have undersize shanks (for
easy insertion) and will not properly hold the transmission in line with the
engine.

It's been stated that suitable precision-shank bolts are available from
aircraft suppliers, but I made my own from 3/8" drill rod; cut to length and
tapped for nuts on both sides.  Others have substituted ordinary dowels, but
my feeling is that the factory must have had a good reason for the switch
(earlier TRs did use dowels).

> Also the clutch contact surface on the flywheel is rusty, 

If it is just light surface rust, and the surface is in good condition
otherwise (no grooves or cracks) then I would just install it.  You can sand
off the rust if you want, but it will get polished anyway, the first time
you use the clutch.

But if there is significant pitting or wear, then it would probably be best
to have it resurfaced at a machine shop.

Randall

From agraham at execulink.com  Thu Aug 20 12:16:12 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:16:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
Message-ID: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello List:
  In attempting to replace some of the nut/bolts in my TR2 project, 
have found it difficult to find the exact bolt, especially for bolts 
with unthreaded shanks in various lengths. How important is it to get 
bolts with the exact unthreaded shank length? Most of the 
replacements I have been able to find are threaded the complete 
length. Does this present a problem when replacing an unthreaded 
shank bolt?? Thinking mainly of the driveshaft flange bolts and rear 
backing plate/axle attachment bolts.
I've always understood that most of the fasteners are "fine" thread - 
NF. Have seen listings with threads per inch of 24, 20 and 18 on 
larger bolts all as "fine" or NF. Am I missing something here or all 
they all considered "fine" and vary by size of bolt.
Thanks for any help with this.

Angelo Graham

From agraham at execulink.com  Thu Aug 20 12:22:33 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:22:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 backing plates & shoe hold-down
Message-ID: <200908201822.n7KIMG9c020284@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello List:
Just completing a rear axle swap in my TR2 project and have salvaged 
a TR3 axle I had in my parts lot. It has 10" brakes. The backing 
plates have a small threaded post held by a nut on the rear of the 
plate. The manual indicates that the brake shoe hold-downs are 
through a hole in the backing plate using a spring and pin combo 
similar to North American cars.
Does anyone have an idea on the threaded peg arrangement for holding 
down the shoes?? They have little felt collars on them as well. Just 
wondering what I need to complete the hold down arrangement with these pegs.
Thanks once again for any help with this.

Angelo Graham

From tfansher at comcast.net  Thu Aug 20 12:41:42 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:41:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill Opening
References: <AC7771FFF1C9402FB2540681B77673BC@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <BF0F35425A6A4BD694C77DB7920C7174@DCS78M81>

I measured my two and this is what I came up with. Roughly 42" across the 
widest part of the mouth on the body and 8" tall.
One grill measures 42.5" wide (with the lip) and one measures 42.25". the 
42.5" grill is 8.5" tall and the other is 8.25" tall including the lip. The 
"shorter" grill is installed and some bowing may make for the shorter 
measurements.
Hope this helps.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:38 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill Opening


> Is there anyone that could measure the TR3A grille opening or a 
> well-fitting
> Grille
> I guess at the point where the screw holes are on the 'mouth'.
>
> Widest point across the top
> Tallest point at the middle
>
> I am trying to figure out what is out of whack on mine.
>
> Thanks
> C

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Aug 20 14:38:46 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:38:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wedge Tires?
Message-ID: <bfe.6698ee71.37bf0e56@aol.com>

Darrell -
 
I like the Vredestein Quatrac 2 in 185/70 13 - will have them on the TR8  
I'm bringing to SLO
_http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Vredestein/vred_quatrac.htm_ 
(http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Vredestein/vred_quatrac.htm) 
 
your other option for stock size wheel is Sumitomo HTR 200 in 205/60  13
 
_http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR+200&partnum=06HR3HTR200&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes_ 
(http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR+200&partnum=06HR3HT
R200&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes) 
 
I have those on a TR8 too
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
PS my autocross wheels have these on them (225/50 13) - but that's  another 
story
_http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=A6&partn
um=25ZR3A6&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes_ 
(http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=A6&partnum=25ZR3A6&vehicleSearch=fa
lse&fromCompare1=yes) 
 
 
In a message dated 8/20/2009 9:10:23 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
TR250Driver at aol.com writes:

Hi  Guys,
Need new tires on all three of my Wedges, the two TR7's and the  TR8.   
Seems that the supply & selection of the original  size,185 70 13, has all  
but 
dried up.  They can still be had  but not in any brands I would  want.  So 
perhaps it is time to  deviate from stock.  Anyone have any  
recommendations of 
a  modern size that fits the stock  rims?
Thanks,
Darrell
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Aug 20 15:00:34 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 17:00:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
In-Reply-To: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net>
References: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <EB8E62609E6C44FC9B8C417AA70054E9@BOBSNEWPC>

Angelo,
I'm not a TR2 guy but on a TR6, bolts for the drive shaft flange, axle
flange, front calipers etc are bolts with precision shoulders. They're made
to a higher tolerance than a standard bolt. That's why they carry a premium
price. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 2:16 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts

Hello List:
  In attempting to replace some of the nut/bolts in my TR2 project, have
found it difficult to find the exact bolt, especially for bolts with
unthreaded shanks in various lengths. How important is it to get bolts with
the exact unthreaded shank length? Most of the replacements I have been able
to find are threaded the complete length. Does this present a problem when
replacing an unthreaded shank bolt?? Thinking mainly of the driveshaft
flange bolts and rear backing plate/axle attachment bolts.
I've always understood that most of the fasteners are "fine" thread - NF.
Have seen listings with threads per inch of 24, 20 and 18 on larger bolts
all as "fine" or NF. Am I missing something here or all they all considered
"fine" and vary by size of bolt.
Thanks for any help with this.

Angelo Graham
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Aug 20 15:31:43 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:31:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
References: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <6A4B79DC54EE489699FB285A527BE885@KARL>

Last question first - yes, "Fine" varies by fastener size.  And there are 
often several series of threads all called "Fine" (or "Extra Fine".  Gotta 
know the nominal diameter and the thread count (per inch).

Many NAPA stores still have a decent selection, though that's diminishing as 
consumer-chain auto parts stores eat them up.  Or try an industrial (mill) 
supply outlet.  And there's also McMaster-Carr.

When you can't otherwise source a close-tolerance bolt or screw, try an 
aircraft supply like Aircraft Spruce or Freeman's or a zillion others. 
There are many An or MS (different vintages of military standards) fasteners 
including shoulder bolts, and a number of different materials, strengths, 
and finishes as well as a choice of drilled head, drilled shank, or 
undrilled in many types.

Karl



> Hello List:
>  In attempting to replace some of the nut/bolts in my TR2 project, have 
> found it difficult to find the exact bolt, especially for bolts with 
> unthreaded shanks in various lengths. How important is it to get bolts 
> with the exact unthreaded shank length? Most of the replacements I have 
> been able to find are threaded the complete length. Does this present a 
> problem when replacing an unthreaded shank bolt?? Thinking mainly of the 
> driveshaft flange bolts and rear backing plate/axle attachment bolts.
> I've always understood that most of the fasteners are "fine" thread - NF. 
> Have seen listings with threads per inch of 24, 20 and 18 on larger bolts 
> all as "fine" or NF. Am I missing something here or all they all 
> considered "fine" and vary by size of bolt.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 20 15:41:46 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:41:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 backing plates & shoe hold-down
In-Reply-To: <200908201822.n7KIMG9c020284@smtp1.execulink.net>
References: <200908201822.n7KIMG9c020284@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <3899E9B57B2A4CD6A417F38F7B41007E@jdnet.deere.com>

> The manual indicates that the brake 
> shoe hold-downs are through a hole in the backing plate using 
> a spring and pin combo similar to North American cars.

In a word, the manual is wrong.  There were a number of cars delivered with
the posts as you describe; the Moss catalog shows TS13552 through TS56376.
TS39781LO did not have them when I got it, but I'm pretty sure that's
because it had a later axle (and 9" brakes) installed after someone robbed
the original 4.10 axle.  But TS13571L does have them, as did my other cars
in that range.

> Just wondering what I need to complete the hold 
> down arrangement with these pegs.

Sounds like you already have everything.  With those brakes, there is no
direct hold-down, only the force from the return springs and the slots in
the slave pistons to locate the brake shoes.  Just a drop or two of oil on
the felt (to lubricate the end of the post).  The pegs should be adjusted so
they hold the shoes parallel.  Too far out causes the shoes to wear on one
edge, too far in can cause a strange clunk when the brakes are released.
BTDT

Oh yeah, the threads on those posts are Whitworth (BSF as I recall) and the
locknut takes a Whitworth wrench.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 20 15:51:45 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 14:51:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
In-Reply-To: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net>
References: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <FA8AB21785034596BD205F67C25F95C1@jdnet.deere.com>

> How important is it to get bolts with the exact 
> unthreaded shank length? 

I believe it's rather important.  As Bob noted, in some cases the shank
diameter is important as well.  Most of them are available from the usual
suspects.

> Thinking mainly of the driveshaft flange bolts and rear 
> backing plate/axle attachment bolts.

Driveshaft flange 107960, $2.75/ea @ TRF.
Later axle 112653, $1.85/ea @ TRF.

> Am I missing 
> something here or all they all considered "fine" and vary by 
> size of bolt.

NF (National Fine) specifies a different thread pitch for almost every
different diameter (just as NC is different pitch for almost every
diameter).  The common NF bolts on a TR3 (which I assume applies to a TR2 as
well) are:
10-32
1/4-28
5/16-24
3/8-24
7/16-20
1/2-20
9/16-18

-- Randall  

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug 20 16:27:18 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 15:27:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
Message-ID: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>

Folks,
Now that the cash for clunkers program has been going on for a while, how
many Triumph owners have had their cars taken by the government?

I ask because when such programs are being considered, the nay-sayers always
come out of the woodwork with tales of how the government would come and
take our cars.

Joe

From dlylis at gmail.com  Thu Aug 20 16:33:33 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 18:33:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908201533k5a8a1832l491c8daa056be76a@mail.gmail.com>

Both my TRs get over 18 MPG so. . .I think they don't qualify!!!!!

On Thu, Aug 20, 2009 at 6:27 PM, Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net> wrote:

> Folks,
> Now that the cash for clunkers program has been going on for a while, how
> many Triumph owners have had their cars taken by the government?
>
> I ask because when such programs are being considered, the nay-sayers
> always
> come out of the woodwork with tales of how the government would come and
> take our cars.
>
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dlylis at gmail.com  Thu Aug 20 16:36:31 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 18:36:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
In-Reply-To: <FA8AB21785034596BD205F67C25F95C1@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net>
	<FA8AB21785034596BD205F67C25F95C1@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908201536n2bc196e5k9aacd9ff53bc055e@mail.gmail.com>

Step up and buy the proper fasteners for the prop shaft.  It will seem cheap
after you use the wrong ones, get aggravated by the vibration and crawl
under there to put the right ones in.

On Thu, Aug 20, 2009 at 5:51 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > How important is it to get bolts with the exact
> > unthreaded shank length?
>
> I believe it's rather important.  As Bob noted, in some cases the shank
> diameter is important as well.  Most of them are available from the usual
> suspects.
>
> > Thinking mainly of the driveshaft flange bolts and rear
> > backing plate/axle attachment bolts.
>
> Driveshaft flange 107960, $2.75/ea @ TRF.
> Later axle 112653, $1.85/ea @ TRF.
>
> > Am I missing
> > something here or all they all considered "fine" and vary by
> > size of bolt.
>
> NF (National Fine) specifies a different thread pitch for almost every
> different diameter (just as NC is different pitch for almost every
> diameter).  The common NF bolts on a TR3 (which I assume applies to a TR2
> as
> well) are:
> 10-32
> 1/4-28
> 5/16-24
> 3/8-24
> 7/16-20
> 1/2-20
> 9/16-18
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 20 16:52:05 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 15:52:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com>

> I ask because when such programs are being considered, the 
> nay-sayers always come out of the woodwork with tales of how 
> the government would come and take our cars.

As I assume you know, Joe, the CARS (aka Cash for Clunkers) program
specifically excludes cars as old as even the newest Triumph.  However,
there was a big spread in the LA Times just the other day, bemoaning how
'stupid' that was, and how unreasonable that "special interests" had gotten
that exclusion inserted.  It also talked at some length about how badly our
old cars pollute.

You're right, they haven't come for us yet; but it could still happen.  At
least once a year, there is a bill introduced to the CA legislature that
tries to reduce pollution from old cars.  And all it would take is applying
new car emission standards to force all Triumphs off the road.

-- Randall  

From kvacek at ameritech.net  Thu Aug 20 16:58:19 2009
From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 17:58:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
References: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net>
	<FA8AB21785034596BD205F67C25F95C1@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <512BF95F60CE407989AAB364D4AFBB7B@KARL>

Don't know if any are used on a TR3, but there are also lots of other 
less-common sizes that are nonetheless standard too.  What you listed are 
the UNF/SAE fine threads, but here are the common 1/4" threads for which I 
have taps in my hand: 1/4-20 (UNC) 1/4-24 (USF), 1/4-28 (UNF/SAE), and 
1/4-32 (UNEF).  I couldn't find one glancing through my unorganized tap 
drawer without reading glasses, but I'd swear I have a 1/4-27 too.

In 5/16 I have 5/16-18 (UNC), 5/16-20 (USF), 5/16-24 (UNF/SAE), 5/16-27 
(this one is also marked USF !!??), and 5/16-32 (UNEF).

I may not have found all of them - because I had no reading glasses with me 
when I went to the garage to get them  ;-)  This pattern continues on up the 
sizes - not to mention the special threads used by some diabolical designer 
just because he could.  In larger sizes it's even more common to find other 
(mostly fine) thread pitches.

Then there's Whitworth (coarse) and British Standard (fine).  All different 
thread form (and 55 degree angle threads), different wrenches, etc.  And the 
same wrench is called one size in Whitworth and the next size up in BSF...

Karl

> NF (National Fine) specifies a different thread pitch for almost every
> different diameter (just as NC is different pitch for almost every
> diameter).  The common NF bolts on a TR3 (which I assume applies to a TR2 
> as
> well) are:
> 10-32
> 1/4-28
> 5/16-24
> 3/8-24
> 7/16-20
> 1/2-20
> 9/16-18
>
> -- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 20 17:09:12 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:09:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
In-Reply-To: <512BF95F60CE407989AAB364D4AFBB7B@KARL>
References: <200908201815.n7KIFtfM018558@smtp1.execulink.net><FA8AB21785034596BD205F67C25F95C1@jdnet.deere.com>
	<512BF95F60CE407989AAB364D4AFBB7B@KARL>
Message-ID: <89100907879E4C2B9DCAC03D8561389E@jdnet.deere.com>

> Don't know if any are used on a TR3, but there are also lots 
> of other less-common sizes that are nonetheless standard too. 

Oh yes, of course.  There are also some other odd sizes found on a TR3, like
the 7/16-32 threads on the shift lever, and the M5-.75 threads on the tach &
speedo mounting studs; not to mention BA (British Association) threads in
many places.  I was only trying to list the NF sizes used.

1/4-27 isn't listed in my chart; but there is a 1/16-27 NPT thread that is
only slightly larger than 1/4".  And there are a few NPT threads on a TR3 as
well.

-- Randall  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 20 17:37:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 16:37:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wedge Tires?
In-Reply-To: <d0d.5cbe08ad.37bea485@aol.com>
References: <d0d.5cbe08ad.37bea485@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9B18CD1A36134173961808A4D834E9EA@jdnet.deere.com>

> They can still be had but not in 
> any brands I would  want.

FWIW Darrell, I have used Sumitomo HTR tires and they worked out well.  Put
them on the wife's Dodge Caravan and they seemed quite reasonable for 'every
day' tires.  Lots of folks say they like the Kumho tires as well.

-- Randall  

From pcaffrey at ymail.com  Thu Aug 20 19:06:32 2009
From: pcaffrey at ymail.com (P Caffrey)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 01:06:32 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
	<E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <533577.89604.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I remember long ago when I had to get my TR4A smogged and certified.  I took
it to a mechanic that knew these cars.  He'd fiddle with it and it would
pass.  I also remember him telling me that the car passed smog inspection but
was probably one of the dirtiest cars on the road.  I suspect CA, TR owners
have the most to worry about regarding "progressive" legislation.  We CAs love
to be on the "cutting edge"....I can't help but wonder, too, that there are
many old car enthusiasts across car lines.  When or if push comes to shove, TR
folks could align themselves with Chevrolet, Ford, etc enthusiasts to help
block unwelcome legislation.  I wonder how many old car enthusiasts are out
there, especially in CA?  Also, it would be interesting to know how many
legislators/politicians have vintage cars.


________________________________
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent:
Thursday, August 20, 2009 3:52:05 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check

> I ask
because when such programs are being considered, the 
> nay-sayers always come
out of the woodwork with tales of how 
> the government would come and take
our cars.

As I assume you know, Joe, the CARS (aka Cash for Clunkers) program
specifically excludes cars as old as even the newest Triumph.  However,
there
was a big spread in the LA Times just the other day, bemoaning how
'stupid'
that was, and how unreasonable that "special interests" had gotten
that
exclusion inserted.  It also talked at some length about how badly our
old
cars pollute.

You're right, they haven't come for us yet; but it could still
happen.  At
least once a year, there is a bill introduced to the CA
legislature that
tries to reduce pollution from old cars.  And all it would
take is applying
new car emission standards to force all Triumphs off the
road.

-- Randall  
_______________________________________________

Support
Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the
Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 20 21:22:31 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 22:22:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Reality check
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
	<E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <98EB988AD7C544C385215835149F4FB7@yourpd3mh0abgs>

I wouldn't worry about the Cash for Clinkers program.  The government has 
been stiffing the dealers and many are pulling out.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check


>> I ask because when such programs are being considered, the
>> nay-sayers always come out of the woodwork with tales of how
>> the government would come and take our cars.
>
> As I assume you know, Joe, the CARS (aka Cash for Clunkers) program
> specifically excludes cars as old as even the newest Triumph.  However,
> there was a big spread in the LA Times just the other day, bemoaning how
> 'stupid' that was, and how unreasonable that "special interests" had 
> gotten
> that exclusion inserted.  It also talked at some length about how badly 
> our
> old cars pollute.
>
> You're right, they haven't come for us yet; but it could still happen.  At
> least once a year, there is a bill introduced to the CA legislature that
> tries to reduce pollution from old cars.  And all it would take is 
> applying
> new car emission standards to force all Triumphs off the road.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 20 21:54:02 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 20:54:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <E95835B1008E464D9999B52563348323@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <20090821035403398.LUUQ16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> While our cars might be "the dirtiest" cars on the road, they are a very
> small number by comparison.  If you don't believe me, stand on an overpass
> and count the number of cars that might be considered "classic" by any
> particular enthusiast.

ANY old car is considered 'classic' by someone ... there is even an Edsel
club.  And at least around here, cars more than 25 years old are easily 1%
of the cars on the road (saw a really nice 60's Nova today plus a 72 Mustang
and others I didn't bother to remember).  According to that LA Times
article, nearly 3% of registered cars in CA are more than 25 years old:
http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-clunkers13-2009aug13,0,6098269.story

> I see real beaters everyday going down
> the road spewing trails of smoke.  Those are the real problems they could
> address.

Actually, they do.  Here in LA county, it is illegal to emit visible smoke;
you can be ticketed and fined.  I got a "fix it" ticket myself, once
(external oil feed to rockers = bad idea).

But they did give up, at least for the moment, on the idea of installing
road-side exhaust sniffers.  I expect it will come up again, once the
economy improves.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 20 21:57:11 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 20:57:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <98EB988AD7C544C385215835149F4FB7@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <20090821035713401.TCEQ6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> I wouldn't worry about the Cash for Clinkers program.  The government has
> been stiffing the dealers and many are pulling out.

Besides which, the current program ends Monday anyway.

Randall

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 20 21:50:23 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 22:50:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Reality check
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew><E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com>
	<98EB988AD7C544C385215835149F4FB7@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <2AD7050D054A4D1B83F745F1E8CA8F67@ranteer.local>

i heard on the news that it was pretty much over anyway.  too 
successful!!!!!!!!!!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "spook01" <spook01 at comcast.net>
To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check


>I wouldn't worry about the Cash for Clinkers program.  The government has 
>been stiffing the dealers and many are pulling out.
> Best,
> Ray
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check
>
>
>>> I ask because when such programs are being considered, the
>>> nay-sayers always come out of the woodwork with tales of how
>>> the government would come and take our cars.
>>
>> As I assume you know, Joe, the CARS (aka Cash for Clunkers) program
>> specifically excludes cars as old as even the newest Triumph.  However,
>> there was a big spread in the LA Times just the other day, bemoaning how
>> 'stupid' that was, and how unreasonable that "special interests" had 
>> gotten
>> that exclusion inserted.  It also talked at some length about how badly 
>> our
>> old cars pollute.
>>
>> You're right, they haven't come for us yet; but it could still happen. 
>> At
>> least once a year, there is a bill introduced to the CA legislature that
>> tries to reduce pollution from old cars.  And all it would take is 
>> applying
>> new car emission standards to force all Triumphs off the road.
>>
>> -- Randall

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug 20 22:09:50 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2009 21:09:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <20090821035403398.LUUQ16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
References: <E95835B1008E464D9999B52563348323@joepentiumnew>
	<20090821035403398.LUUQ16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <06FD50F3B8154B33A9928DD900BB9C0E@joepentiumnew>

Three percent is nothing!  But the real issue is how much these cars are
being driven.  I know that there are some of us who drive our Triumphs daily
to work and the store etc.  But those are probably the exception.  Most have
classic car insurance that restricts the mileage to somewhere around 2K to
3K a year. 
 
Maybe that should be the determining factor.  If it is a classic then the
owner would have classic insurance to avoid the emissions testing.  If it
has standard insurance and is driven more that the minimum, it should be
classified along with all modern cars and undergo emissions testing!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 8:54 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check


ANY old car is considered 'classic' by someone ... there is even an Edsel
club.  And at least around here, cars more than 25 years old are easily 1%
of the cars on the road (saw a really nice 60's Nova today plus a 72 Mustang
and others I didn't bother to remember).  According to that LA Times
article, nearly 3% of registered cars in CA are more than 25 years old:
http://www.latimes.com/business/la-fi-clunkers13-2009aug13,0,6098269.story

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Thu Aug 20 22:51:41 2009
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 00:51:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
Message-ID: <ca5.48b08a47.37bf81dd@aol.com>

Fully threaded bolts are called tap bolts. Bolts with shanks are hex cap  
screws.
Tap bolts come ungraded or grade 5.  Hex cap screws commonly as  grade 5 
and grade 8.  Most sources would have all of these in UNC (coarse)  and UNF 
(fine).
 
 
Rodney Ford

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Fri Aug 21 04:56:55 2009
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 06:56:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] clunkers
Message-ID: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com>

Saw a piece on the news the other day. Seems a fellow in Colorado got tired
of not being able to get his car to run right and couldn't find anyone to
work on it properly, so he went for the CARS program. The car? A Maserati
Biturbo. Yep, it's gonna get crushed.

--Phil Barnes
--Keeneyville, PA
-- '71 TR6

From ccsimonsen at gmail.com  Fri Aug 21 05:05:42 2009
From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 07:05:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <06FD50F3B8154B33A9928DD900BB9C0E@joepentiumnew>
References: <E95835B1008E464D9999B52563348323@joepentiumnew>
	<20090821035403398.LUUQ16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<06FD50F3B8154B33A9928DD900BB9C0E@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <6fa72a770908210405l4c5562abg509f4524c4338420@mail.gmail.com>

> "  If it is a classic then the owner would have classic insurance to avoid
> the emissions testing.  If it
> has standard insurance and is driven more that the minimum, it should be
> classified along with all modern cars and undergo emissions testing!"



Whoa!  This is way too restrictive for me.  I wanna drive my car.

Chris

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 21 05:21:52 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 07:21:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] clunkers
In-Reply-To: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost>

On 21 Aug 2009 at 6:56, Philip Barnes wrote:

> A Maserati Biturbo. Yep, it's gonna get crushed.

I once worked with a guy who had a Biturbo.  It was a nice looking 
car, stylish inside and undoubtedly fast.  But except for the unusual 
plumbing it was just another car, more or less.  Okay, maybe it was 
more more and less less.

He asked me to pick up a dizzy cap because the Maserati/Alfa dealer 
was just around the corner from me.  It cost $109.  This was in the 
late 80's.

Once he called me in a panic from the roadside because smoke was 
billowing out from under the dash.  He had taken it for service and 
the dweeb who re-assembled the plastic under the steering column had 
driven a screw through the wiring harness.

Just another car.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Aug 21 06:24:08 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 08:24:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <533577.89604.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
	<E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com>
	<533577.89604.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200908210824.09151.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 20 August 2009 09:06:32 pm P Caffrey wrote:
> I remember long ago when I had to get my TR4A smogged and certified.  I
> took it to a mechanic that knew these cars.  He'd fiddle with it and it
> would pass.  I also remember him telling me that the car passed smog
> inspection but was probably one of the dirtiest cars on the road.  I
> suspect CA, TR owners have the most to worry about regarding "progressive"
> legislation.  We CAs love to be on the "cutting edge"....I can't help but
> wonder, too, that there are many old car enthusiasts across car lines. 
> When or if push comes to shove, TR folks could align themselves with
> Chevrolet, Ford, etc enthusiasts to help block unwelcome legislation.  I
> wonder how many old car enthusiasts are out there, especially in CA?  Also,
> it would be interesting to know how many legislators/politicians have
> vintage cars.
>
>
Here in NY state, cars older than 1995 do not have to pass smog inspections. 
Could that change? I dont think so. The current emissions test is performed by 
computer, not a sensor on the tail pipe. Cars older than 95 dont have the 
ability.

But as everyone in this country can attest, we are slowly getting regulated to 
death.

I currently drive a 58 TR3, 63 TR4 and a 1974 Bonneville that could never pass 
current emissions tests. And with a 72 TR6 to be completed in about a year or 
so with some modifications to the engine, I doubt that car would pass as well.

I believe the vintage car industry is just too large for the government to 
shut it down. Sales, parts, cottage industries supplying parts and upgrades. 
Doesn't make a whole lot of sense to shut it down because of a little co2 and 
some no2. How much do we contribute to the total tail pipe emissions? Most 
likely cant be measured.

Well, I am going in the garage and try to get some work done on the 6.

Bob

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 21 07:13:59 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 08:13:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] Reality check
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew><E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com><98EB988AD7C544C385215835149F4FB7@yourpd3mh0abgs>
	<2AD7050D054A4D1B83F745F1E8CA8F67@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <5E8846917D6E43448E0B2A66635E0F64@yourpd3mh0abgs>

it proved that people will take free money.  that was a surprise to me.
my buddy with a ford dealership says that originally they were told they 
would have funds in 10 days, but now 60 days out they are still holding the 
bag.  maybe they are going to issue IOU's. ;-)
Best,
Ray


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check


>i heard on the news that it was pretty much over anyway.  too 
>successful!!!!!!!!!!
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "spook01" <spook01 at comcast.net>
> To: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 10:22 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check
>
>
>>I wouldn't worry about the Cash for Clinkers program.  The government has 
>>been stiffing the dealers and many are pulling out.
>> Best,
>> Ray
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
>> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 5:52 PM
>> Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check
>>
>>
>>>> I ask because when such programs are being considered, the
>>>> nay-sayers always come out of the woodwork with tales of how
>>>> the government would come and take our cars.
>>>
>>> As I assume you know, Joe, the CARS (aka Cash for Clunkers) program
>>> specifically excludes cars as old as even the newest Triumph.  However,
>>> there was a big spread in the LA Times just the other day, bemoaning how
>>> 'stupid' that was, and how unreasonable that "special interests" had 
>>> gotten
>>> that exclusion inserted.  It also talked at some length about how badly 
>>> our
>>> old cars pollute.
>>>
>>> You're right, they haven't come for us yet; but it could still happen. 
>>> At
>>> least once a year, there is a bill introduced to the CA legislature that
>>> tries to reduce pollution from old cars.  And all it would take is 
>>> applying
>>> new car emission standards to force all Triumphs off the road.
>>>
>>> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Aug 21 07:14:09 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 08:14:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
References: <ca5.48b08a47.37bf81dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5BBB1CE228CF4D72B7AEDBCB076A09B1@trigeni.com>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <FordneyNJ at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:51 PM
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts


> Fully threaded bolts are called tap bolts. Bolts with shanks are hex cap
> screws.
> Tap bolts come ungraded or grade 5.  Hex cap screws commonly as  grade 5
> and grade 8.  Most sources would have all of these in UNC (coarse)  and 
> UNF
> (fine).
>
>
> Rodney Ford
> _______________________________________________

I was taught the opposite:  bolts are fasteners that have only partially 
threaded shanks and those with fully threaded shanks are cap screws.  A bolt 
relies on a nut for its fastening capability, whereas a screw fastens by 
engaging with a tapped hole in the piece to which it is securing something.

Mike 

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Fri Aug 21 07:19:08 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 06:19:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60908201533k5a8a1832l491c8daa056be76a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
	<2a7657b60908201533k5a8a1832l491c8daa056be76a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A8E9ECC.80300@gmail.com>

David Lylis wrote:
> Both my TRs get over 18 MPG so. . .I think they don't qualify!!!!!
>   
Since I converted my 1960 Land Rover over to EFI neither of my cars 
qualify if the 18 MPG is highway mileage.

Teriann
1960 Land Rover Dormobile, owned since 1978
1961 Triumph TR3A, owned since 1986, the new car

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 21 07:27:57 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 06:27:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <4A8E9ECC.80300@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20090821132758164.EVHK29812@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Since I converted my 1960 Land Rover over to EFI neither of my cars
> qualify if the 18 MPG is highway mileage.

Nope, it's "combined" mileage (which was recently adjusted downward).

And of course it's "EPA estimated" mileage, which means improvements like
EFI do not count.

Better luck next time <G>
Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 21 07:38:14 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 06:38:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <06FD50F3B8154B33A9928DD900BB9C0E@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <20090821133815462.MWAX8845@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> Three percent is nothing! 

Actually, it's quite a lot if you accept the assertion in that article that
old cars emit 200 times as much pollution per mile as new cars do.

>  But the real issue is how much these cars are
> being driven.

Which was why I answered in terms of the cars I see on the road (ie driven).

Besides, as we all know, environmental laws have little to do with facts
anyway.

> Maybe that should be the determining factor. 

Maybe it should.  My odometer doesn't work anyway ... <G>

Randall

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Fri Aug 21 08:42:21 2009
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 10:42:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <mailman.25113.1250860458.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.25113.1250860458.20693.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CBF084B9A9AB21-714-3E41@WEBMAIL-MY29.sysops.aol.com>

Well, my TR4 is a "zero emissions" vehicle until I get the motor rebuilt and put it back on the road. That could be a while. ?



Alan Myers, Photographer
San Jose, California
408 803-5550
amfoto1 at aol.com
www.amfoto1.printroom.com

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Aug 21 09:17:52 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 08:17:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770908210405l4c5562abg509f4524c4338420@mail.gmail.com>
References: <E95835B1008E464D9999B52563348323@joepentiumnew><20090821035403398.LUUQ16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com><06FD50F3B8154B33A9928DD900BB9C0E@joepentiumnew>
	<6fa72a770908210405l4c5562abg509f4524c4338420@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <76AF0214F94543F09196F821B1511F90@joepentiumnew>

I would have to say, if You want to drive your car all the time, it should
be your responsibility to ensure that it did not pollute the environment.

There has to be limits.  And we all have to be sensitive to the environment.
This earth is the only one we have, at least for now.  I don't see us being
able to populate another planet in my lifetime.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 4:06 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check

> "  If it is a classic then the owner would have classic insurance to avoid
> the emissions testing.  If it
> has standard insurance and is driven more that the minimum, it should be
> classified along with all modern cars and undergo emissions testing!"



Whoa!  This is way too restrictive for me.  I wanna drive my car.

Chris
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 21 10:24:48 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 16:24:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <98EB988AD7C544C385215835149F4FB7@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
	<E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com> 
	<98EB988AD7C544C385215835149F4FB7@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W1465D012EA2F42DDD62CDAE5FC0@phx.gbl>

Cash for clunkers ends Monday.  Thus far most dealers have yet to receive any
reimbursement from the government.  If you think the auto industry was in
trouble before wait until the dealers begin going bankrupt because the
government stiffs them on the reimbursement.

Best regards,

Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=PID23391::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM
_HYGN_faster:082009

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 21 10:29:01 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 12:29:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <5E8846917D6E43448E0B2A66635E0F64@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <4A8E930D.31052.2A5039AE@localhost>

On 21 Aug 2009 at 8:13, spook01 wrote:

> they were told they would have funds in 10 days, but...

It so happens that yesterday Tom Ashbrook's guest on On-Point was the 
Secretary of Transportation, Ray LeHood, former Republican 
Congressman from Illinois.  I caught the first half of the show in a 
rebroadcast.  One thing they talked about was the clunkers program.  
It is administered by his Transportation Department.  I got the 
impression that it might have been his idea originally, but even if 
it wasn't he was sure an ardent supporter.  Now, politicians and 
adminstrators always have ready answers, some of which are even 
credible.  When questioned about the delay he said it was due to 
three things: delay in getting funds, the overwhelming response, and 
the fact so that many many dealerships simply didn't do the paperwork 
properly.  He said the first two problems were now resolved; Congress 
had provided the money (presumably appropriated), and their workforce 
and technology (presumably computers for bookkeeping) are now fully 
in place to process everything expditiously.

I wish he had been more fact-focused and less cheerleader-ish.  The 
biggest take-home message was enthusiasm, which is fine but more of a 
fluffy dessert than a meal.  Perhaps he felt the need to engage in 
active public relations management.

[To reply to this message, fill out these six forms in triplicate and 
submit them with notarized affidavits in person to our home office in 
Bangkok, Thailand.  Please stay on the line, your call is very 
important to us, but not as important as it is to you...(beep)...] 

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Aug 21 11:39:04 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 13:39:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reality check
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
	<E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com>
	<533577.89604.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<200908210824.09151.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <7F96198BE2DC4826A8D0AE0BA4340015@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Only speaking of the "emissions testing" law here in Virginia, the emissions 
must be up to the standards of the "Year of Manufacture", to expect a 1959 
Triumph to meet 20010 standards would sure wipe out any and "ALL" antique" 
autos, the hobbie would be finished.  FT
=============================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Reality check


> On Thursday 20 August 2009 09:06:32 pm P Caffrey wrote:
>> I remember long ago when I had to get my TR4A smogged and certified.  I
>> took it to a mechanic that knew these cars.  He'd fiddle with it and it
>> would pass.  I also remember him telling me that the car passed smog
>> inspection but was probably one of the dirtiest cars on the road.  I
>> suspect CA, TR owners have the most to worry about regarding 
>> "progressive"
>> legislation.  We CAs love to be on the "cutting edge"....I can't help but
>> wonder, too, that there are many old car enthusiasts across car lines.
>> When or if push comes to shove, TR folks could align themselves with
>> Chevrolet, Ford, etc enthusiasts to help block unwelcome legislation.  I
>> wonder how many old car enthusiasts are out there, especially in CA? 
>> Also,
>> it would be interesting to know how many legislators/politicians have
>> vintage cars.
>>
>>
> Here in NY state, cars older than 1995 do not have to pass smog 
> inspections.
> Could that change? I dont think so. The current emissions test is 
> performed by
> computer, not a sensor on the tail pipe. Cars older than 95 dont have the
> ability.
>
> But as everyone in this country can attest, we are slowly getting 
> regulated to
> death.
>
> I currently drive a 58 TR3, 63 TR4 and a 1974 Bonneville that could never 
> pass
> current emissions tests. And with a 72 TR6 to be completed in about a year 
> or
> so with some modifications to the engine, I doubt that car would pass as 
> well.
>
> I believe the vintage car industry is just too large for the government to
> shut it down. Sales, parts, cottage industries supplying parts and 
> upgrades.
> Doesn't make a whole lot of sense to shut it down because of a little co2 
> and
> some no2. How much do we contribute to the total tail pipe emissions? Most
> likely cant be measured.
>
> Well, I am going in the garage and try to get some work done on the 6.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Fri Aug 21 11:49:21 2009
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 13:49:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <7F96198BE2DC4826A8D0AE0BA4340015@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew>
	<E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com>
	<533577.89604.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<200908210824.09151.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<7F96198BE2DC4826A8D0AE0BA4340015@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <4A8EDE21.1060009@frontiernet.net>

I know someone here in New York said that there was no emissions testing 
for older cars; not true.

Every year my local testing center verifies that my 1957 TR3 has a gas cap.

George Richardson



>


__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4356 (20090821) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 21 11:57:40 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 10:57:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] Reality check
In-Reply-To: <7F96198BE2DC4826A8D0AE0BA4340015@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew><E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com><533577.89604.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><200908210824.09151.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<7F96198BE2DC4826A8D0AE0BA4340015@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <90F5FD068EC04629AF84CECF23CE8346@jdnet.deere.com>

> Only speaking of the "emissions testing" law here in 
> Virginia, the emissions must be up to the standards of the 
> "Year of Manufacture",

This is true everywhere, AFAIK.  The standards have gotten continually
tighter, so not even a 2000 model can be expected to meet 2010 standards.

But there was a brief period here in CA (back in the 60s) where cars had to
be retrofitted with emission control devices and the state would inspect
that the devices were present and connected.  If they did it once, they
could do it again ...

-- Randall  

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Fri Aug 21 12:34:21 2009
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 14:34:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Replacement bolts
Message-ID: <c30.6007c082.37c042ad@aol.com>

I was taught the opposite:  bolts are fasteners that have only  partially 
threaded shanks and those with fully threaded shanks are cap  screws.  A 
bolt 
relies on a nut for its fastening capability, whereas a  screw fastens by 
engaging with a tapped hole in the piece to which it is  securing something.

Mike 
 
The original usage of a tap bolt was for a tapped hole.   Any  fastener 
with threads is a screw, ie wood screw, sheet metal screw, machine  screw, set 
screw, socket head cap screw and of course the afore mentioned  hex(head) 
cap screw.  A tap bolt could be called a tap screw.
 
Rodney

From rengrave at verizon.net  Fri Aug 21 12:48:14 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 14:48:14 -0400
Subject: [TR]  Bronze bushing in flywheel
In-Reply-To: <D5E8DB3DF9CE4517AA2C9725ACB2F159@doug7d653a6a72>
References: <76DBFBFD721848DAAA2E160FE300BB0A@RossFamily>
	<D5E8DB3DF9CE4517AA2C9725ACB2F159@doug7d653a6a72>
Message-ID: <08C7968E29894491B53D8D8C6F224AE0@RossFamily>

I just ordered a new bronze bushing from TRF (I want the best fit I can 
get).
I will be installing the Magic Clutch Kit from TRF. I beleive it comes with 
a Koyo bearing with TRF bronze bushing.
I will be using Bear grease that also came from TRF on the bearing/gearbix 
shaft with anti-seise on the splines.

I also ordered a new light switch while I was at it (my switch is very loose 
in the dash and the connections on the back are bad.)
I also need a new WIPE/WASH plastic light lens for the dash, the one that is 
mounted under the wiper/washer control on my 73 TR6.
TRF said they are not available, no source available to reproduce them.
Does anybody know where I can get one?
I tried superglueing the back tubular plastic (the part that holds the bulb) 
back onto the lens, but I don't think it will last.
Apparently the heat of thee bulb dries up the plastic tube over the years 
and the tube cracks.

Wayne
73 TR6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Doug Nelson" <dmnlaw at peoplepc.com>
To: "Wayne" <rengrave at verizon.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 1:40 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Bronze bushing in flywheel


> Wayne,
>
> When I replaced my clutch my thinking was to replace everything while I
> was in there. I wanted, at all cost, to do everything possible to avoid
> having to go back in and reperform this labor intensive job. My personal
> opinion is to go ahead and replace it while it is apart and easy to do.
> The bushing itself is inexpensive. Just my thoughts.
>
> Doug Nelson
> 74TR6
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Wayne" <rengrave at verizon.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:26 AM
> Subject: [TR] Bronze bushing in flywheel
>
>
>> The bronze bushing in the center of my gearbox on my TR6:
>> The ID is loose fiiting on the shaft of the gearbox.
>> The ID of the bushing is .515", the shaft is .5".
>> Is this to sloppy?
>> The manual tells me that the bushing should be loose fitting in the
>> flywheel.
>> Should it also be loose on the gearbox shaft?
>> This bushing is only a guide to keep the gearbox shaft centered for the
>> clutch, correct?
>> I have a new "magic clutch kit" I'm installing and was just wondering if
>> I
>> should buy another bushing?
>>
>> Also the clutch contact surface on the flywheel is rusty, if I just sand
>> it
>> with a 320 grit paper using a vibrating sander
>> to get the surface clean, is this the way to go. Or should I get it
>> machined
>> like a brake rotor?
>> I currently have the flywheel off during my engine rebuild and would like
>> to
>> clean it the correct way.
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Wayne
>> 1973 TR6
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>> http://www.vtr.org
>>
>>
>> Triumphs at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>>
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Fri Aug 21 12:54:27 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 14:54:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill Opening
In-Reply-To: <BF0F35425A6A4BD694C77DB7920C7174@DCS78M81>
References: <AC7771FFF1C9402FB2540681B77673BC@CarlPC>
	<BF0F35425A6A4BD694C77DB7920C7174@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <3263EE459D1E4382A54A87E2CBD6D7D9@CarlPC>

interesting - I have two - with almost exactly the same dimensions as yours. 
So, as someone else stated, it appears that the opening as been 'squashed' 
about 3/4".

Now, I just need to figure out how to force the mouth open a bit without 
creating havoc.   Tom - I'll take you up on your offer to call tomorrow 
morning.

Thanks to all...
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "THOMAS FANSHER" <tfansher at comcast.net>
To: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>; "Triumph List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 2:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Grill Opening


>I measured my two and this is what I came up with. Roughly 42" across the 
>widest part of the mouth on the body and 8" tall.
> One grill measures 42.5" wide (with the lip) and one measures 42.25". the 
> 42.5" grill is 8.5" tall and the other is 8.25" tall including the lip. 
> The "shorter" grill is installed and some bowing may make for the shorter 
> measurements.
> Hope this helps.
> Tom
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a at verizon.net>
> To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, August 20, 2009 11:38 AM
> Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill Opening
>
>
>> Is there anyone that could measure the TR3A grille opening or a 
>> well-fitting
>> Grille
>> I guess at the point where the screw holes are on the 'mouth'.
>>
>> Widest point across the top
>> Tallest point at the middle
>>
>> I am trying to figure out what is out of whack on mine.
>>
>> Thanks
>> C

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Aug 21 15:24:15 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 16:24:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] Reality check
References: <37176DF5CABB4567B800C322FDCD29C6@joepentiumnew><E0920EFDC9854C8480A32B3D1E9E4F13@jdnet.deere.com><533577.89604.qm@web59705.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><200908210824.09151.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<7F96198BE2DC4826A8D0AE0BA4340015@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <F567F555D5EB40AA81116695DB913F66@ranteer.local>

in Texas cars older than 25  years there is safety testing only, except if 
you get antique plates.  as far as i know, an antique vehilce does not have 
safety or inspection requirements.  it just has to have insurance.

The official line is:

Antique license plates are issued for cars, trucks or motorcycles that are 
at least 25 years old and are a collector's item. The vehicle must be used 
exclusively for exhibitions, club activities, parades or other functions of 
public interest. Vehicles displaying Antique plates may not be used for 
regular transportation or carry advertising. The vehicle may be driven to 
and from a location for routine maintenance.

as a friend of mine said, if i'm not driving to an exhibition, club 
activity, etc, i'm out test driving . . .


> Only speaking of the "emissions testing" law here in Virginia, the 
> emissions must be up to the standards of the "Year of Manufacture", to 
> expect a 1959 Triumph to meet 20010 standards would sure wipe out any and 
> "ALL" antique" autos, the hobbie would be finished.  FT
> =============================================================================================================
> ----- Original Message -----  

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 21 15:39:34 2009
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 14:39:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Antique Tag
Message-ID: <757825.83440.qm@web57805.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

In Kansas a car must be 35 years old, but you can use an antique Kansas tag of
the same year as the car. You just must take the tag in when you
register.  The link shows the tag on Karen's TR3.
 
http://www.flickr.com/photos/52752611 at N00/4296441/
 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 21 16:48:22 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 15:48:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] clunkers
In-Reply-To: <4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost>
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost>
Message-ID: <6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com>

> He asked me to pick up a dizzy cap because the Maserati/Alfa 
> dealer was just around the corner from me.  It cost $109.  

Which is less than the dizzy cap for my GM car.

Which in turn is less than the labor to actually change it (you start by
removing the radiator and even the water pump has to come off).

And it was another $350 to change the plug wires!

-- Randall  

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Fri Aug 21 17:56:02 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 19:56:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Antique Tag
In-Reply-To: <757825.83440.qm@web57805.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <757825.83440.qm@web57805.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a38798b30908211656m12e99cfau1d8fcd385ade5429@mail.gmail.com>

Now that is a cool tag.
Brian

On Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 5:39 PM, Kent Shrack <kentshrack at yahoo.com> wrote:

> In Kansas a car must be 35 years old, but you can use an antique Kansas tag
> of
> the same year as the car. You just must take the tag in when you
> register.  The link shows the tag on Karen's TR3.
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/52752611 at N00/4296441/
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Herald948 at aol.com  Fri Aug 21 18:34:18 2009
From: Herald948 at aol.com (Herald948 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 20:34:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] Reality check
Message-ID: <ca1.5fbbb68c.37c0970a@aol.com>

Bob writes:

Here in  NY state, cars older than 1995 do not have to pass smog 
inspections. 
Could  that change? I dont think so. The current emissions test is 
performed by  
computer, not a sensor on the tail pipe. Cars older than 95 dont have the  
ability.
 
==AM==
Not that it's all that pertinent to the discussion, but the cutoff year in  
New York is 1996 and newer, not 1995. I verified that again this morning as 
I  had my '95 Mercury Mystique inspected. One of the mechanics at the shop  
commented on the rough running and how it could be a problem for the  
inspection (bad spark plug or lead, I think, and a tiny exhaust leak -- and  I'll 
get to all that RealSoonNow), but another reminded the first that the car  
was a '95, so no smog.
 
[ Whew! :-) ]  

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
Herald engine with wings.
--  Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 /  Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph 
Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) 

Check out the North  American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 21 18:34:15 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2009 20:34:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] HVLP Spray Gun
Message-ID: <BAY123-W149F501871FC8DB741B659BAFB0@phx.gbl>

Anybody used one of the DeVILBISS StartingLine HVLP guns? Was it any good?

Marty

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From auprichard at comcast.net  Sat Aug 22 06:03:58 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 08:03:58 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com><4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost>
	<6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>

List:

What was the outcome of the recent e-discussion on gas smells?  I have 2
TR3s in the garage below our bedroom and my wife claims the smell of gas is
now impregnating the clothes closet.  It has been 90+ degrees here in MA and
I assume the vent pipes are indeed venting, but did anyone have suggestions
for a cure (other than spousal nasal surgery) ?

Andrew Uprichard

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat Aug 22 07:00:28 2009
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 09:00:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com><4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost>
	<6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com>
	<E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <4A8FEBEC.5010806@frontiernet.net>

I'm not sure what is being used now, but cars from the 1970's used a 
charcoal canister to recover fumes and then recirculate them back 
through the intake.

George Richardson



Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> List:
>
> What was the outcome of the recent e-discussion on gas smells?  I have 2
> TR3s in the garage below our bedroom and my wife claims the smell of gas is
> now impregnating the clothes closet.  It has been 90+ degrees here in MA and
> I assume the vent pipes are indeed venting, but did anyone have suggestions
> for a cure (other than spousal nasal surgery) ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4357 (20090821) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
>   


__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature database 4358 (20090822) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 22 08:01:42 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 07:01:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <20090822140141902.DYBW6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> What was the outcome of the recent e-discussion on gas smells?

I believe there were several conclusions; one being that excess smell is
frequently caused by leaks too small to drip.  Common locations on a TR3
include the bottom of the fuel tank, sediment bowl on the fuel pump, fuel
pump outlet fitting, fuel shutoff tap (on car so equipped) and of course the
carburetor float bowl mounts & jet gland.

Some have also reported an improvement by blocking off (or eliminating) the
original banjo tank vent, and substituting a small hole in the filler cap
instead.

Not reported, but helpful I believe is to let the engine cool outdoors
before storing the car in the garage.

The ultimate solution of course would be to add a charcoal canister as
George suggests.  Not terribly difficult, but I think it will be important
to also have a vapor separator in the fuel tank vent line.  The tank vent
can dump raw fuel in hard turns, which can contaminate the canister.  Later
Stags (possibly TR6 as well) used a vapor separator that I think would fit
in the space above the tank.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 22 10:08:31 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 16:08:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] Super glued light lens.
In-Reply-To: <08C7968E29894491B53D8D8C6F224AE0@RossFamily>
References: <76DBFBFD721848DAAA2E160FE300BB0A@RossFamily>
	<D5E8DB3DF9CE4517AA2C9725ACB2F159@doug7d653a6a72> 
	<08C7968E29894491B53D8D8C6F224AE0@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W305BAE50143F0FFCEF0C54E5FB0@phx.gbl>

>I tried superglueing the back tubular plastic (the part that holds the bulb)
>back onto the lens, but I don't think it will last.

I have a false veneer front tooth.  Over the last twenty years the veneer has
come
loose from it's gold bridge mount several times.  I would go to my dentist and
he
would use every adhesive he had to glue the veneer back in.  In 2007 two days
before
I was to leave for Europe the veneer came loose again.  I cleaned the back of
the
veneer and the gold mount with alcohol and dried them with a can of office
air.
I then glued the veneer back in place with super glue.  It has worked fine for
over
two years.  You may be surprised how long it works on you dash light.


Best regards,
Tom




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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Sat Aug 22 11:11:26 2009
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 13:11:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com><4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost><6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com>
	<E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <7F721786FFC0481C95FA5B450ABA935A@userb38463fba5>

Having them move out generally helps!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 8:03 AM
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives


> List:
>
> What was the outcome of the recent e-discussion on gas smells?  I have 2
> TR3s in the garage below our bedroom and my wife claims the smell of gas 
> is
> now impregnating the clothes closet.  It has been 90+ degrees here in MA 
> and
> I assume the vent pipes are indeed venting, but did anyone have 
> suggestions
> for a cure (other than spousal nasal surgery) ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard

From banjonut at verizon.net  Sat Aug 22 12:01:21 2009
From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:01:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
Message-ID: <CD929B574361467D966E852014C259F9@HAMPC>

Andrew,
I would start by seeing if both cars produce "the smell" equally.  Park one 
outside for a few days, and then the other.  That might tell you if one is 
the specific offender, or if they're both about the same....could be a big 
head start in the troubleshooting process.

BTW, my wife says if it doesn't smell a little bit, it's not a "real" 
British car.  You gotta love it.  Sorry though, she's not for sale.


Steve Ball
Lompoc CA
'60 TR3A under construction

banjonut at verizon.net


-----------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 08:03:58 -0400
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives

List:

What was the outcome of the recent e-discussion on gas smells?  I have 2
TR3s in the garage below our bedroom and my wife claims the smell of gas is
now impregnating the clothes closet.  It has been 90+ degrees here in MA and
I assume the vent pipes are indeed venting, but did anyone have suggestions
for a cure (other than spousal nasal surgery) ?

Andrew Uprichard 

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat Aug 22 12:09:19 2009
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:09:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
References: <20090822140141902.DYBW6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <90DC4FC71626489CBDDD96A317F0FE99@Dell>

I think I started the discussion with a question about losing gas through 
the overflow. I think I solved that problem with Randal's suggestion to 
remove the overflow and vent the gas cap. Worked fine on this morning's run 
but no long trips yet.  Most of the times I have had gas smells in the 
garage, however, were from leaks from various places in the carbs. 
Complaints went down after rebuilding them.
Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 7:01 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Smells and wives


>> What was the outcome of the recent e-discussion on gas smells?
>
> I believe there were several conclusions; one being that excess smell is
> frequently caused by leaks too small to drip.  Common locations on a TR3
> include the bottom of the fuel tank, sediment bowl on the fuel pump, fuel
> pump outlet fitting, fuel shutoff tap (on car so equipped) and of course 
> the
> carburetor float bowl mounts & jet gland.
>
> Some have also reported an improvement by blocking off (or eliminating) 
> the
> original banjo tank vent, and substituting a small hole in the filler cap
> instead.
>
> Not reported, but helpful I believe is to let the engine cool outdoors
> before storing the car in the garage.
>
> The ultimate solution of course would be to add a charcoal canister as
> George suggests.  Not terribly difficult, but I think it will be important
> to also have a vapor separator in the fuel tank vent line.  The tank vent
> can dump raw fuel in hard turns, which can contaminate the canister. 
> Later
> Stags (possibly TR6 as well) used a vapor separator that I think would fit
> in the space above the tank.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________ 

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sat Aug 22 12:37:28 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 11:37:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Thermostatic Switch Removal
Message-ID: <957775.15848.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I see that TRF sells green hose kits where you can get a straight hose
instead of the two for the thermostatic switch bypass. Do most people remove
the switch? What advantage, pro or con, is there to keeping or removing the
switch? Are there other things that need to be done after the switch is
removed? Other that originality and because they look cool, are there
legitimate reasons for paying more for the green hose kit instead of the black
hoses?     I plan to keep the ZS carbs on my TR6 for now.     TIA,     Bill in
Tehachapi

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sat Aug 22 13:05:48 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 14:05:48 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Thermostatic Switch Removal
Message-ID: <8435665.123902.1250967948124.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>

1972 Triumph TR6.  Switch was bad and not doing anything.  Went with black hose from TRF to remove it, since the original owner had gone black hoses with the NOS clips.

Had carbs rebuilt that winter, installed and tuned.  No issue with removal, even though I know it should be there.  The car is very original.

Hope this helps..........Craig

On Aug 22, 2009, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote: 

I see that TRF sells green hose kits where you can get a straight hose
instead of the two for the thermostatic switch bypass. Do most people remove
the switch? What advantage, pro or con, is there to keeping or removing the
switch? Are there other things that need to be done after the switch is
removed? Other that originality and because they look cool, are there
legitimate reasons for paying more for the green hose kit instead of the black
hoses? I plan to keep the ZS carbs on my TR6 for now. TIA, Bill in
Tehachapi
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net  Sat Aug 22 13:30:18 2009
From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 15:30:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Radiator Hose Choices
In-Reply-To: <8435665.123902.1250967948124.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <8435665.123902.1250967948124.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <9995BCC8352846EA9B940FA7B6661EFF@TomandWendyPC>

My old black hoses are cracking with age and I know it's only a matter of 
time before I have to change them.  I, therefore, have developed an interest 
in what's available from our favorite suppliers.  Of course, TRF has both 
green and black hoses complete with the original (not for the short-fused 
installer) wire clamps, but they cost a lot of money.  I notice that Moss 
also carries the green hoses (P/Ns 850-100, 105 & 110) for less than TRF 
sells their black hoses.  I know that the Moss hoses are not complete kits 
(no clamps included), but a clamp kit can't cost much more than $15.

Has anyone had actual on-car experience with the Moss hoses?  Is there a 
down side to them or are they equivalent to the TRF green hoses?

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sat Aug 22 13:39:22 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 15:39:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Sidecurtains TR3A
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908221239r38621221s38e3d6881a6bfacc@mail.gmail.com>

Other than cutting the plexi for the windows, I have finished my sidecurtain
project.  Thanks to the generosity of Joe Curry, I have rubber seals on the
leading edge at the stanchion.  Originalistas need not look as I have highly
modified the curtains to fold using the lift the dots on the doors to
fasten, and made the connecting arms removable.  They now sit neatly against
the tank bulkhead, taking up virtually no space in the boot, and I will
never wish I had them with me, but they are at home in the garage.
I have included one pic but will post a series as to how they assemble and
go on the doors.

http://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/P8220177.jpg

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sat Aug 22 13:46:23 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 15:46:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <90DC4FC71626489CBDDD96A317F0FE99@Dell>
References: <20090822140141902.DYBW6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<90DC4FC71626489CBDDD96A317F0FE99@Dell>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908221246m440a4b7ei75f3f0f524188d22@mail.gmail.com>

I think that an attempt at smell elimination is a futile one.  SU carbs are
vented to the atmosphere and gas has such a pervasive smell, I am not sure
you would ever eliminate it entirely.  I go with the suggestion of letting
the car cool down outdoors and then moving it to the garage.
And, by the way, what is the problem with the closet smelling like fuel?  I
keep my garage clothes in my closet and I don't hear any complaining.
(Other than my wife, that is)

On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 2:09 PM, Kinderlehrer <Kinderlehrer at comcast.net>wrote:

> I think I started the discussion with a question about losing gas through
> the overflow. I think I solved that problem with Randal's suggestion to
> remove the overflow and vent the gas cap. Worked fine on this morning's run
> but no long trips yet.  Most of the times I have had gas smells in the
> garage, however, were from leaks from various places in the carbs.
> Complaints went down after rebuilding them.
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 7:01 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Smells and wives
>
>
>
>  What was the outcome of the recent e-discussion on gas smells?
>>>
>>
>> I believe there were several conclusions; one being that excess smell is
>> frequently caused by leaks too small to drip.  Common locations on a TR3
>> include the bottom of the fuel tank, sediment bowl on the fuel pump, fuel
>> pump outlet fitting, fuel shutoff tap (on car so equipped) and of course
>> the
>> carburetor float bowl mounts & jet gland.
>>
>> Some have also reported an improvement by blocking off (or eliminating)
>> the
>> original banjo tank vent, and substituting a small hole in the filler cap
>> instead.
>>
>> Not reported, but helpful I believe is to let the engine cool outdoors
>> before storing the car in the garage.
>>
>> The ultimate solution of course would be to add a charcoal canister as
>> George suggests.  Not terribly difficult, but I think it will be important
>> to also have a vapor separator in the fuel tank vent line.  The tank vent
>> can dump raw fuel in hard turns, which can contaminate the canister. Later
>> Stags (possibly TR6 as well) used a vapor separator that I think would fit
>> in the space above the tank.
>>
>> Randall
>> _______________________________________________
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Sat Aug 22 13:50:39 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 12:50:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Radiator Hose Choices
In-Reply-To: <9995BCC8352846EA9B940FA7B6661EFF@TomandWendyPC>
References: <8435665.123902.1250967948124.JavaMail.root@vms069.mailsrvcs.net>
	<9995BCC8352846EA9B940FA7B6661EFF@TomandWendyPC>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908221250g5e0e3ca6tb0dc1fb947c90b33@mail.gmail.com>

On 8/22/09, Tom Walling & Wendy Rose <pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net> wrote:
> Has anyone had actual on-car experience with the Moss hoses?

I have generally used Moss hoses (TR3 & TR4) without notable problems.
 There may be some difference between the 2 suppliers, for example
(tho not specific to a TR6) the bypass hose on the 3 & 4 from Moss is
a plain hose whereas I think I recall the TRF version has a sock-like
braiding on it.

But I replace hoses long before the get to the condition you descibe
as they are so easy to swap in the garage and can be a PITA on a dark
rainy night along the road.

BTW -- I have always used the wire clamps w/o difficulty.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 22 14:29:17 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 13:29:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Thermostatic Switch Removal
In-Reply-To: <957775.15848.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090822202918099.LKYF6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> What advantage, pro or con, is there to keeping or removing
> the switch?

All the TVS does is to disable the vacuum retard when the engine is about to
overheat; which bumps the idle rpm up.  You can accomplish nearly the same
thing by either shutting the engine off instead of letting it idle for a
long time; or keeping an eye on the gauge and boosting the idle rpm with
your foot if it starts to get hot.

The advantage of removing it is simplicity, mostly (and not having to worry
about a defective switch).

>  Are there other things that need to be done after the switch is
> removed?

Not as long as you connect the retard line around it.  If you disconnect the
retard entirely, then you'll want to reset the idle rpm, which may involve
having to adjust the bowl vent valves as well.

>  Other that originality and because they look cool, are there
> legitimate reasons for paying more for the green hose kit instead of the
> black hoses? 

Nope, only originality.

Randall

From rengrave at verizon.net  Sat Aug 22 20:29:05 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 22:29:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Exhaust manifold paint and Pump prime
Message-ID: <D2A96F126E63490DAD554F934C64472F@RossFamily>

I finished my engine assembly today.
When I say finished I mean everyrthing but the manifolds, oil pan, rocker
cover.
I received my bronze thrust washers today from Scott Helms, They look great,
the front one is standard thickness .092"
and the rear one I sanded down to .095" to get free play of .004" (the low end
of the recommended tolerance).
I gapped the rockers, all intakes @ .012", all exhausts @ .014 per the
instructions given my BPNW for the reground Piper 270 cam
I bought from them. I set the crank @ 112 degrees ATDC with the number 1
exhaust fully open.
This is the first time I have done an engine rebuild, I hope it starts.
When I took the engine apart 10 years ago,  I kept the carbs attached to the
manifold with all the linkage intack. This is so I hopefully
won't have to fuss with them when I bolt them on. I rebuilt them back then and
they were running fine.

A few questions:

What do I use for exhaust manifold paint? High heat silver paint? The stock
manifold is blasted and ready for something.

What do I use inside the oil pump for prime?  I had heard Vasaline? Will 30 wt
oil leak out by the time I get it into the car?
If I turn the engine over with no plugs won't the pump pick up the oil in the
pan without priming it?

Any pointers to rebuilding the brake master cylinder, I have the rebuild kit?
I read somewhere that the bore can be polished with
a 1" scotchbrite wheel on a dremel tool?

Thanks,

Wayne
73 TR6

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Aug 22 22:59:19 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 22:59:19 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] List interruption
Message-ID: <20090823045919.BD53E2E09F@bradakis.com>

First off, let me say thanks to those who have recently contributed to
the continued running of Team.Net - I do appreciate it.

And I think I have all the AOL folks back on the list as before.
If you're an AOL subscriber and you didn't get this email, let me know ;-)

Monday, August 24, the local power company will be doing some work in
my neighborhood.  Power may be off here at the house for several
hours.  I'll be shutting down the servers that morning, and they could
be off until later that afternoon.  So if you send off a message and
don't see it for a while, or you can't get to the archives or forums,
be patient, things will get back to normal.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Aug 22 23:00:15 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 23:00:15 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] List interruption
Message-ID: <20090823050015.D91172E09F@bradakis.com>

I think I have all the AOL folks back on the list as before.
If you're an AOL subscriber and you didn't get this email, let me know ;-)

Monday, August 24, the local power company will be doing some work in
my neighborhood.  Power may be off here at the house for several
hours.  I'll be shutting down the servers that morning, and they could
be off until later that afternoon.  So if you send off a message and
don't see it for a while, or you can't get to the archives or forums,
be patient, things will get back to normal.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Aug 22 23:02:07 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 23:02:07 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [TR] List interruption
Message-ID: <20090823050207.6D4D72E09F@bradakis.com>

First off, let me say thanks to those who have recently contributed to
the continued running of Team.Net - I do appreciate it.

I think I have all the AOL folks back on the list as before.
If you're an AOL subscriber and you didn't get this email, let me know ;-)

Monday, August 24, the local power company will be doing some work in
my neighborhood.  Power may be off here at the house for several
hours.  I'll be shutting down the servers that morning, and they could
be off until later that afternoon.  So if you send off a message and
don't see it for a while, or you can't get to the archives or forums,
be patient, things will get back to normal.

mjb.

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Aug 22 23:09:47 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2009 23:09:47 -0600
Subject: [TR] oops
Message-ID: <4A90CF1B.8060907@bradakis.com>

Fizzer the cat has been chased out of my office, so his attempts to gain my
attention should not interfere with any further message editing and sending.

Sorry about those multiple posts.

mjb.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Aug 23 06:38:43 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 08:38:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Exhaust manifold paint and Pump prime
In-Reply-To: <D2A96F126E63490DAD554F934C64472F@RossFamily>
References: <D2A96F126E63490DAD554F934C64472F@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <570E4962086543A8AFCB6B3D4A707524@BOBSNEWPC>

I'll let the engine experts answer those questions but I used POR-15
Manifold paint with excellent results:
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ManifoldRepair.htm  It still looks as good 2
years later. 

As far as rebuilding hydraulic components...........that's one area that I
leave to the pros or buy new. I know guys who have had excellent results
rebuilding the M/C, Calipers etc and others who have had them fail
completely within a short period of time. I like knowing my brakes will work
when I need them.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 10:29 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Exhaust manifold paint and Pump prime

I finished my engine assembly today.
When I say finished I mean everyrthing but the manifolds, oil pan, rocker
cover.
I received my bronze thrust washers today from Scott Helms, They look great,
the front one is standard thickness .092"
and the rear one I sanded down to .095" to get free play of .004" (the low
end of the recommended tolerance).
I gapped the rockers, all intakes @ .012", all exhausts @ .014 per the
instructions given my BPNW for the reground Piper 270 cam I bought from
them. I set the crank @ 112 degrees ATDC with the number 1 exhaust fully
open.
This is the first time I have done an engine rebuild, I hope it starts.
When I took the engine apart 10 years ago,  I kept the carbs attached to the
manifold with all the linkage intack. This is so I hopefully won't have to
fuss with them when I bolt them on. I rebuilt them back then and they were
running fine.

A few questions:

What do I use for exhaust manifold paint? High heat silver paint? The stock
manifold is blasted and ready for something.

What do I use inside the oil pump for prime?  I had heard Vasaline? Will 30
wt oil leak out by the time I get it into the car?
If I turn the engine over with no plugs won't the pump pick up the oil in
the pan without priming it?

Any pointers to rebuilding the brake master cylinder, I have the rebuild
kit?
I read somewhere that the bore can be polished with a 1" scotchbrite wheel
on a dremel tool?

Thanks,

Wayne
73 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Aug 23 08:05:22 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 10:05:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <7F721786FFC0481C95FA5B450ABA935A@userb38463fba5>
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com><4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost><6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com>
	<E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
	<7F721786FFC0481C95FA5B450ABA935A@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <A8CB0EE557ED401BBF2F30C8C03AA74E@DCH6RFC1>

Thank you to all for your helpful comments.  With respect to Jerry Van
Vlack's (below), I have one problem:  some years ago my wife got a bonus at
work. When she asked where we should invest it, I suggested the TR3
restoration project.  Somehow this action became support for the contention
that the car was, in fact, hers.  So if she left, I'd lose the car.  And man
would I miss the car...........

Andrew

-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Van Vlack [mailto:jerryvv at roadrunner.com] 
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 1:11 PM
To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Smells and wives

Having them move out generally helps!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 8:03 AM
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives


> List:
>
> What was the outcome of the recent e-discussion on gas smells?  I have 2
> TR3s in the garage below our bedroom and my wife claims the smell of gas 
> is
> now impregnating the clothes closet.  It has been 90+ degrees here in MA 
> and
> I assume the vent pipes are indeed venting, but did anyone have 
> suggestions
> for a cure (other than spousal nasal surgery) ?
>
> Andrew Uprichard

From KingsCreekTrees at aol.com  Sun Aug 23 08:53:55 2009
From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com (KingsCreekTrees at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 10:53:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
Message-ID: <ca9.4cb0e551.37c2b203@aol.com>

Hi all;
 
I went for a drive yesterday with ambient temperature of about 26 degrees  
C. Not sure what that is in those quaint American degrees, but I'd guess at  
about 78 or 80 of them. Steady country driving at about 50-55mph, then 
parked  it. The gauge was dead on the 'normal' position when I switched off. I 
could see  the temp gauge climbing, as normal, while parked and I then 
started the car  after maybe 15 minutes. I could only drive about a hundred 
metres, with the  engine running very roughly and with no power or speed, until it 
died completely  and would not restart. I left it on the side of the road 
for a few hours,  knowing that it was 'just resting'. I came back 6 hours 
later. It started first  time and drove perfectly. I'm sure it's fuel 
evaporation from the increased  engine temperature while parked; it's happenned 
before but this time I've  decided to try and do something about it.
 
Everything SU-related seems to be as it should; no fuel leaks and it  
doesn't happen in cooler ambient temperatures. Has anyone experienced this  and 
has anyone tried to fabricate any form of heat shield?
 
Tim
 
Tim Dyer,  Proprietor
Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road,  RR3
Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada 
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario

From mathews at uga.edu  Sun Aug 23 09:02:24 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 11:02:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <ca9.4cb0e551.37c2b203@aol.com>
References: <ca9.4cb0e551.37c2b203@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A915A00.9070900@uga.edu>

Tim,

TRF has some carb heat shields that I have not installed...but I think 
other members have and they can comment on what they perceive to be 
their effectiveness. Here is a link:  
http://www.zeni.net/trf/specials6.19/6.php

Doug


KingsCreekTrees at aol.com wrote:
> Hi all;
>  
> I went for a drive yesterday with ambient temperature of about 26 degrees  
> C. Not sure what that is in those quaint American degrees, but I'd guess at  
> about 78 or 80 of them. Steady country driving at about 50-55mph, then 
> parked  it. The gauge was dead on the 'normal' position when I switched off. I 
> could see  the temp gauge climbing, as normal, while parked and I then 
> started the car  after maybe 15 minutes. I could only drive about a hundred 
> metres, with the  engine running very roughly and with no power or speed, until it 
> died completely  and would not restart. I left it on the side of the road 
> for a few hours,  knowing that it was 'just resting'. I came back 6 hours 
> later. It started first  time and drove perfectly. I'm sure it's fuel 
> evaporation from the increased  engine temperature while parked; it's happenned 
> before but this time I've  decided to try and do something about it.
>  
> Everything SU-related seems to be as it should; no fuel leaks and it  
> doesn't happen in cooler ambient temperatures. Has anyone experienced this  and 
> has anyone tried to fabricate any form of heat shield?
>  
> Tim
>  
> Tim Dyer,  Proprietor
> Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
> 427 Kings Creek Road,  RR3
> Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada 
> Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
> (http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 
>
> Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
> Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
> Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Aug 23 09:05:31 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 08:05:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <ca9.4cb0e551.37c2b203@aol.com>
References: <ca9.4cb0e551.37c2b203@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7DB68DDAE56445A8B74B4441BF9DB297@joepentiumnew>

Sounds like a classic case of Vapor Lock.  There are several ways to
approach a solution.  One is a heat shield you suggest.  I believe Joe
Alexander has them for sale.

I have copied him on this message.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
KingsCreekTrees at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 7:54 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation

Hi all;
 
I went for a drive yesterday with ambient temperature of about 26 degrees  
C. Not sure what that is in those quaint American degrees, but I'd guess at

about 78 or 80 of them. Steady country driving at about 50-55mph, then 
parked  it. The gauge was dead on the 'normal' position when I switched off.
I 
could see  the temp gauge climbing, as normal, while parked and I then 
started the car  after maybe 15 minutes. I could only drive about a hundred 
metres, with the  engine running very roughly and with no power or speed,
until it 
died completely  and would not restart. I left it on the side of the road 
for a few hours,  knowing that it was 'just resting'. I came back 6 hours 
later. It started first  time and drove perfectly. I'm sure it's fuel 
evaporation from the increased  engine temperature while parked; it's
happenned 
before but this time I've  decided to try and do something about it.
 
Everything SU-related seems to be as it should; no fuel leaks and it  
doesn't happen in cooler ambient temperatures. Has anyone experienced this
and 
has anyone tried to fabricate any form of heat shield?
 
Tim
 
Tim Dyer,  Proprietor
Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals
427 Kings Creek Road,  RR3
Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada 
Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: _www.kingscreektrees.com_ 
(http://www.kingscreektrees.com/) 

Proud  member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Horticulture 
Industry  professionals), the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association and 
Christmas Tree  Farmers of Ontario
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://www.team.net/archive

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sun Aug 23 09:48:34 2009
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (John A. Wise)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 08:48:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <7DB68DDAE56445A8B74B4441BF9DB297@joepentiumnew>
References: <ca9.4cb0e551.37c2b203@aol.com>
	<7DB68DDAE56445A8B74B4441BF9DB297@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <AB1BC1B1-6CC6-4C95-92CD-3D375D73DA8F@cox.net>

I have one of Joe's heat shield on my TR3A here in Phoenix (the  
Devil's boot camp - if hey can make it here, Hell is a piece of cake)  
and have had no problems!

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Aug 23 10:25:18 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 12:25:18 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Radiator Hose Choices
Message-ID: <bfa.48181efb.37c2c76e@aol.com>

I just recently replaced my green hoses on the TR6.  They were put on  new 
in 2002 as part of my restoration.  We used them because I thought it  would 
be nice to try to keep some level of originality even though my engine is  
modified and very obviously not stock!
 
I replaced the hoses with stock black hoses from Moss because the green  
hoses cracked badly and swelled up like sausages.  When I worked at a  local 
shop a few years back, we used many, many black hoses from Moss and never  
had a customer complaint.  However, I have seen a few cars fitted with  green 
hoses very recently and the texture and feel of these green hoses seems to  
be more compliant.....it could be that today's new green hoses are produced  
with different (and better??) materials....maybe other fokks can give their 
 feedback on the newer green hoses.
 
To answer your question, the black Moss hoses work well, last well, and fit 
 well.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U 
 
 
In a message dated 8/22/2009 3:31:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net writes:

Has  anyone had actual on-car experience with the Moss hoses?  Is there a  
down side to them or are they equivalent to the TRF green  hoses?

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 23 11:25:25 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 17:25:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] Sidecurtains TR3A
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60908221239r38621221s38e3d6881a6bfacc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2a7657b60908221239r38621221s38e3d6881a6bfacc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W42B71945CBFA1EDFD30985E5FA0@phx.gbl>

An excellent improvement to your side curtains.  Please post photos and an
explanation of the conversion when you are able.  Thanks.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
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From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 23 11:31:51 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 13:31:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Radiator Hose Choices
In-Reply-To: <bfa.48181efb.37c2c76e@aol.com>
References: <bfa.48181efb.37c2c76e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A917D07.1070200@earthlink.net>

My last batch of TRF green hoses lasted ten years with no problems.  I 
just replaced them this year because a) it has  been ten years, and b) 
they were finally starting to swell.  Oh, and I replaced them with TRF 
green hoses.

Joe
72 TR6

Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:
> I just recently replaced my green hoses on the TR6.  They were put on  new 
> in 2002 as part of my restoration.  We used them because I thought it  would 
> be nice to try to keep some level of originality even though my engine is  
> modified and very obviously not stock!
>  
> I replaced the hoses with stock black hoses from Moss because the green  
> hoses cracked badly and swelled up like sausages.  When I worked at a  local 
> shop a few years back, we used many, many black hoses from Moss and never  
> had a customer complaint.  However, I have seen a few cars fitted with  green 
> hoses very recently and the texture and feel of these green hoses seems to  
> be more compliant.....it could be that today's new green hoses are produced  
> with different (and better??) materials....maybe other fokks can give their 
>  feedback on the newer green hoses.
>  
> To answer your question, the black Moss hoses work well, last well, and fit 
>  well.
>  
> Chip Krout
> Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
> Skippack, PA
> 1976 TR6  CF57822U 
>  
>  
> In a message dated 8/22/2009 3:31:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
> pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net writes:
>
> Has  anyone had actual on-car experience with the Moss hoses?  Is there a  
> down side to them or are they equivalent to the TRF green  hoses?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 23 11:32:57 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 17:32:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] Exhaust manifold paint and Pump prime
In-Reply-To: <D2A96F126E63490DAD554F934C64472F@RossFamily>
References: <D2A96F126E63490DAD554F934C64472F@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W2716569CB66CFB06AE9B6EE5FA0@phx.gbl>

>I set the crank @ 112 degrees ATDC with the number 1 exhaust fully open.

When I set up a new engine I set the crank on the intended timing mark for
operation, i.e. 12 degrees btc, and then set the distributor with throtor
pointing at number one post.  This way the engine is set to fire and run on
the first attempt.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 23 11:35:29 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 17:35:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] List interruption
In-Reply-To: <20090823045919.BD53E2E09F@bradakis.com>
References: <20090823045919.BD53E2E09F@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W2664621AFD7045C0AC6855E5FA0@phx.gbl>

>And I think I have all the AOL folks back on the list as before.If you're an
AOL subscriber and you didn't get this email, let me know ;-)

How would an AOL subscriber know if they didn't receive the mail?

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 23 11:43:42 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 17:43:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <A8CB0EE557ED401BBF2F30C8C03AA74E@DCH6RFC1>
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com><4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost><6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com>
	<E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
	<7F721786FFC0481C95FA5B450ABA935A@userb38463fba5> 
	<A8CB0EE557ED401BBF2F30C8C03AA74E@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W326C494C4BDC3DDF3843ECE5FA0@phx.gbl>

If your wife invested any money in your car and you live in a community
property state she has a claim on it.  In fact if you bought the car during
your marriage and cannot prove you did so with entirely separate funds she has
a half interest in the car.  If after a purchase with separate funds you use
community funds, i.e.wages, for the car she has a valid claim against the car
whether any of her separate money was invested.

Best regards,

Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online.
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:
WL:en-US:SI_SB_online:082009

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 23 12:52:56 2009
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 11:52:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] Sidecurtains TR3A
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60908221239r38621221s38e3d6881a6bfacc@mail.gmail.com>
References: <2a7657b60908221239r38621221s38e3d6881a6bfacc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A919008.7080406@comcast.net>

This looks like a neat solution! I am getting ready to refurbish my
sidecurtains and am looking forwards to more details.

Thanks for posting this.

Mike


David Lylis wrote:
> Other than cutting the plexi for the windows, I have finished my sidecurtain
> project.  Thanks to the generosity of Joe Curry, I have rubber seals on the
> leading edge at the stanchion.  Originalistas need not look as I have highly
> modified the curtains to fold using the lift the dots on the doors to
> fasten, and made the connecting arms removable.  They now sit neatly against
> the tank bulkhead, taking up virtually no space in the boot, and I will
> never wish I had them with me, but they are at home in the garage.
> I have included one pic but will post a series as to how they assemble and
> go on the doors.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 23 13:10:42 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 14:10:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Sidecurtains TR3A
References: <2a7657b60908221239r38621221s38e3d6881a6bfacc@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A919008.7080406@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B2BB035DF8E745FA9E081306F8804DB2@ranteer.local>

me too!!!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Lang" <mlang99 at comcast.net>
Cc: "email list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 1:52 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Sidecurtains TR3A


> This looks like a neat solution! I am getting ready to refurbish my
> sidecurtains and am looking forwards to more details.
> 
> Thanks for posting this.
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> David Lylis wrote:

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Aug 23 13:15:17 2009
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 15:15:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] List interruption
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W2664621AFD7045C0AC6855E5FA0@phx.gbl>
References: <20090823045919.BD53E2E09F@bradakis.com>
	<BAY110-W2664621AFD7045C0AC6855E5FA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CBF23D2F3D5BBA-FF0-1C7C3@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>

 As an AOL user I would say that if you go several days with no mail from the list then AOL is acting up again.? You can always go to an old list post and access the archives link at the bottom of the page to see if you have been bitten by the AOL bug.? Or create an email address at one of the free sites just to have a back-up/duplicate source.? You would only need to visit once a week to delete the emails if you were receiving emails from AOL and it would serve as a back-up if you weren't.? That is the tactic I have adopted as I am not confident that AOL wont create the same problems all over again.

I am curious as to what course of action you might choose so please post your "solution" to the list if you don't mind.

Thanks,

Aaron


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To: mark at bradakis.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Aug 23, 2009 1:35 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] List interruption










>And I think I have all the AOL folks back on the list as before.If you're an
AOL subscriber and you didn't get this email, let me know ;-)

How would an AOL subscriber know if they didn't receive the mail?

Best regards,
Tom



_______

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Sun Aug 23 13:28:20 2009
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Diggle)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 07:28:20 +1200
Subject: [TR] Boot or trunk lids
Message-ID: <MDEGKJLBNCELPDNOLLOPOECCCAAA.diggle@clear.net.nz>

My boot or trunk lid has the usual triumph rust which I partially fixed a
few years ago.
I have had advice from an experienced restorer on how to remove the
strenghtener then weld in a patch or two but am hoping to find a website
that has pictures showing such a restoration.
Does anyone know of a website that outlines how to do it, preferably with
pictures.

Thanks
Jim and the 1962 TR4

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 23 13:44:32 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 12:44:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <4A915A00.9070900@uga.edu>
Message-ID: <20090823194432482.VKLH16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>

> TRF has some carb heat shields that I have not installed...

Me too.  Just for clarity, TRF is reselling the heat shields from Joe A.
Several people have claimed that they actually notice better fuel mileage as
well, meaning the amount of fuel being boiled away is significant.

I'm a bit surprised that Tim is having trouble, since AFAIK Ontario is not
selling the 'oxygenated' fuel that is causing so much trouble farther south.
But it might be that he still has some 'winter' gas in the tank, which is
deliberately formulated with a higher vapor pressure (more apt to boil), for
easier starting in cold weather.

Randall

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 23 14:00:09 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 13:00:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] List interruption
In-Reply-To: <8CBF23D2F3D5BBA-FF0-1C7C3@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090823045919.BD53E2E09F@bradakis.com>
	<BAY110-W2664621AFD7045C0AC6855E5FA0@phx.gbl>
	<8CBF23D2F3D5BBA-FF0-1C7C3@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <115713.61649.qm@web111607.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

i simply signed up for this free yahoo account.
no more problems
Frank
________________________________
From: "acekraut11 at aol.com"
<acekraut11 at aol.com>
To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com; mark at bradakis.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 12:15:17 PM
Subject: Re:
[TR] List interruption

As an AOL user I would say that if you go several days
with no mail from the list then AOL is acting up again.? You can always go to
an old list post and access the archives link at the bottom of the page to see
if you have been bitten by the AOL bug.? Or create an email address at one of
the free sites just to have a back-up/duplicate source.? You would only need
to visit once a week to delete the emails if you were receiving emails from
AOL and it would serve as a back-up if you weren't.? That is the tactic I have
adopted as I am not confident that AOL wont create the same problems all over
again.

I am curious as to what course of action you might choose so please
post your "solution" to the list if you don't mind.

Thanks,

Aaron
-----Original Message-----
From: tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com>
To:
mark at bradakis.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Aug 23, 2009 1:35 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] List interruption










>And I think I have all the AOL
folks back on the list as before.If you're an
AOL subscriber and you didn't
get this email, let me know ;-)

How would an AOL subscriber know if they
didn't receive the mail?

Best regards,
Tom



_______
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Aug 23 14:26:09 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 16:26:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W326C494C4BDC3DDF3843ECE5FA0@phx.gbl>
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com><4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost><6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com><E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
	<7F721786FFC0481C95FA5B450ABA935A@userb38463fba5> 
	<A8CB0EE557ED401BBF2F30C8C03AA74E@DCH6RFC1>
	<BAY110-W326C494C4BDC3DDF3843ECE5FA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6D6B12EC1A8F4CE7A3D9D52BA0CDEF01@DCH6RFC1>

Wow, Tom, you sound like an attorney..

 

With any luck I'll hold on to both of them for a very long time.  They both
bring me a great deal of pleasure.

 

Andrew

 

  _____  

From: tom white [mailto:tswhitez123 at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 1:44 PM
To: auprichard at comcast.net; jerryvv at roadrunner.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Smells and wives

 

If your wife invested any money in your car and you live in a community
property state she has a claim on it.  In fact if you bought the car during
your marriage and cannot prove you did so with entirely separate funds she
has a half interest in the car.  If after a purchase with separate funds you
use community funds, i.e.wages, for the car she has a valid claim against
the car whether any of her separate money was invested.

Best regards, 
Tom





  _____  

Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online. Find out
more.
<http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:SI_SB_online:082009> 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Aug 23 17:09:51 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 17:09:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] Nice looking TR3
Message-ID: <4A91CC3F.9040508@bradakis.com>

http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16

Gee, I should have taken a picture of the nice shiny new control
head I put in the steering column the other day.

mjb.

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Aug 23 19:59:03 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 21:59:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <A8CB0EE557ED401BBF2F30C8C03AA74E@DCH6RFC1>
References: <7F721786FFC0481C95FA5B450ABA935A@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <4A91BBA7.20619.36A6D3DB@localhost>

On 23 Aug 2009 at 10:05, Andrew Uprichard wrote:

> Thank you to all for your helpful comments.

One late comment.  I know a number of folks who live in houses built 
mostly over an attached garage.  All of them have gas or exhaust 
smells in the house, even when the garage houses only fancy newish 
vehicles with modern emissions control equipment.  So it isn't 
necessarily due to the Triumph.

> ...So if she left, I'd lose the car.  And man
> would I miss the car...........

You could take up fishing.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sun Aug 23 20:58:51 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 22:58:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Nice looking TR3
In-Reply-To: <4A91CC3F.9040508@bradakis.com>
References: <4A91CC3F.9040508@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908231958l657dd4b2rff949481c0012e60@mail.gmail.com>

Is it my imagination, or is the luggage rack on upside down?

On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 7:09 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16
>
> Gee, I should have taken a picture of the nice shiny new control
> head I put in the steering column the other day.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dlylis at gmail.com  Sun Aug 23 21:01:29 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 23:01:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W326C494C4BDC3DDF3843ECE5FA0@phx.gbl>
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com>
	<4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost>
	<6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com>
	<E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
	<7F721786FFC0481C95FA5B450ABA935A@userb38463fba5>
	<A8CB0EE557ED401BBF2F30C8C03AA74E@DCH6RFC1>
	<BAY110-W326C494C4BDC3DDF3843ECE5FA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908232001l4c13c8f9w7a044f9db4b3779a@mail.gmail.com>

OK, then its her turn to change the oil.

On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 1:43 PM, tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> If your wife invested any money in your car and you live in a community
> property state she has a claim on it.  In fact if you bought the car during
> your marriage and cannot prove you did so with entirely separate funds she
> has
> a half interest in the car.  If after a purchase with separate funds you
> use
> community funds, i.e.wages, for the car she has a valid claim against the
> car
> whether any of her separate money was invested.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online.
>
> http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON
> :
> WL:en-US:SI_SB_online:082009
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Aug 23 21:47:53 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 22:47:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] Nice looking TR3
References: <4A91CC3F.9040508@bradakis.com>
	<2a7657b60908231958l657dd4b2rff949481c0012e60@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A18B06C4A8174935BA322AD25670C509@ranteer.local>

too funny
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Lylis" <dlylis at gmail.com>
To: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Nice looking TR3


> Is it my imagination, or is the luggage rack on upside down?
>
> On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 7:09 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> 
> wrote:
>
>> http://www.team.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=16
>>
>> Gee, I should have taken a picture of the nice shiny new control
>> head I put in the steering column the other day.
>>
>> mjb. 

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Aug 23 22:04:54 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 22:04:54 -0600
Subject: [TR] Nice looking TR3
In-Reply-To: <2a7657b60908231958l657dd4b2rff949481c0012e60@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4A91CC3F.9040508@bradakis.com>
	<2a7657b60908231958l657dd4b2rff949481c0012e60@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4A921166.5090007@bradakis.com>

David Lylis wrote:
> Is it my imagination, or is the luggage rack on upside down?
Yes, it is.  We offered to flip it around for the customer, but he said
we didn't need to bother about it.  So it goes.

mjb.

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Sun Aug 23 22:02:08 2009
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 00:02:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
Message-ID: <fac10b170908232102p186ab4d6oa46ba38009b88a55@mail.gmail.com>

How did you ever get it to fit?
I have one for my 3a with H6 carbs but the linkage quite interferes with the
shield where it makes its first bend "outward".
I cut a chunk away but it still didn't work, for reasons I can't recall.
Also great fun getting the nuts on! - but that's not the end of the world.
Jim


> From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net>
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
> To: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
> Cc: Triumph car discussion Sports <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <AB1BC1B1-6CC6-4C95-92CD-3D375D73DA8F at cox.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I have one of Joe's heat shield on my TR3A here in Phoenix (the
> Devil's boot camp - if hey can make it here, Hell is a piece of cake)
> and have had no problems!
>
> John
>
> John A. Wise
> Glendale, AZ

From dlylis at gmail.com  Mon Aug 24 05:49:30 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 07:49:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170908232102p186ab4d6oa46ba38009b88a55@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170908232102p186ab4d6oa46ba38009b88a55@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908240449v47f3427dl7f3bd40fdb233a10@mail.gmail.com>

I have the ARE heatshield on my TR3A as well (Florida) and I had to cut at
the front and back where the linkage interfered.  Not much needed to be cut
and it works well.

On Mon, Aug 24, 2009 at 12:02 AM, Jim Wallace <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>wrote:

> How did you ever get it to fit?
> I have one for my 3a with H6 carbs but the linkage quite interferes with
> the
> shield where it makes its first bend "outward".
> I cut a chunk away but it still didn't work, for reasons I can't recall.
> Also great fun getting the nuts on! - but that's not the end of the world.
> Jim
>
>
> > From: "John A. Wise" <60TR3A at cox.net>
> > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
> > To: Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
> > Cc: Triumph car discussion Sports <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> > Message-ID: <AB1BC1B1-6CC6-4C95-92CD-3D375D73DA8F at cox.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > I have one of Joe's heat shield on my TR3A here in Phoenix (the
> > Devil's boot camp - if hey can make it here, Hell is a piece of cake)
> > and have had no problems!
> >
> > John
> >
> > John A. Wise
> > Glendale, AZ
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Aug 24 10:00:39 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 11:00:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] change oil
References: <200908191213.00749.yellowtr@adelphia.net><0016e6d7e694791e26047181e875@google.com>
	<a38798b30908191026y2c56e6f7s486a6337ddc6a3bc@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <70784679A0954E909EC85E4C0F6A744C@ranteer.local>

we recently found a car that had been sitting in a garage for 30 + years. 
changed all the fuids, replaced all the hydraulics, and now have it running 
and driving.

my question is: should i watch the oil and change it when it's dirty?  wait 
3 months?  anyone have any thoughts about how soon i should change the oil 
again or am i ok going back on a regular schedule? 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug 24 10:42:29 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 12:42:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] change oil
In-Reply-To: <70784679A0954E909EC85E4C0F6A744C@ranteer.local>
References: <200908191213.00749.yellowtr@adelphia.net><0016e6d7e694791e26047181e875@google.com>
	<a38798b30908191026y2c56e6f7s486a6337ddc6a3bc@mail.gmail.com>
	<70784679A0954E909EC85E4C0F6A744C@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <20090824124229.COS80661@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Oliver wrote:
> changed all the fuids

Nevermind the fuids.  It's the fluifs you should be worried about.
--
Jim Muller
and I'd consider changing the oil sooner than three months though I have no support for that idea other than a fear of sludge which might have settled out from the old oil

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 24 11:04:57 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 10:04:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] change oil
In-Reply-To: <70784679A0954E909EC85E4C0F6A744C@ranteer.local>
References: <200908191213.00749.yellowtr@adelphia.net><0016e6d7e694791e26047181e875@google.com><a38798b30908191026y2c56e6f7s486a6337ddc6a3bc@mail.gmail.com>
	<70784679A0954E909EC85E4C0F6A744C@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <F06A3A71E1B640369C725FD0E0990C2A@jdnet.deere.com>

> anyone have any thoughts about how soon i should change the oil
> again or am i ok going back on a regular schedule?

IMO, a regular schedule should be fine.  That's about how long my TR3 had
been sitting, and exactly what I'm doing with it.

Randall

From jimbpps at cox.net  Mon Aug 24 13:17:17 2009
From: jimbpps at cox.net (jimbpps at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 15:17:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Welcome for John Macartney To PTOA area
Message-ID: <20090824151717.J5VKD.74332.imail@fed1rmwml44>

Listers,

The below amended article will appear in the next issue of TRAX, the Portland
Triumph Owners Assoc. newsletter. We plan on meeting John Macartney and his
wife Liz, in the TTACD Stag on the 19th of Sept. to welcome them to the PTOA
area and escort him to Vancouver, WA..

As I am a member of the TR List group, I offered to send this to all of the
AutoX.Team lists of interest and invite any List members to join us!

Thanks and regards,

Jim
Jim Bauder
'68 TR 250; CD47L
Scottsdale, AZ
Cell: 480-309-9525


"John Mcartney Hand-Over and Escort to Vancouver, USA
Saturday September 19, 2009

It has been arranged that the Tyee club will escort John Mcartney from the
Seattle area to Chehalis where he will meet members of PTOA and any other
interested parties who wish to join us to escort him to Vancouver, USA.  We
will meet at the Gee Creek Rest Area off I 5 near Battleground, WA for a 9:00
a.m. departure.  We will do a straight shot up I 5, and meet at Kit Carson
Restaurant, 107 SW Interstate, Chehalis, WA (Phone: 360-740-1084).  Located
just east of I-5 Exit 76 this family friendly restaurant and lounge offers a
full menu.  We will have lunch with the Tyee folks, and toast Johnbs
fundraising efforts, and the success of the Triumph TransAmerica Charity Drive
to date.

Following lunch, John and the Bauders, and all others who wish to come along,
will take some backroads back to the Bauderbs home in Vancouver.  Target
arrival time is 5:00 pm.

Sunday activities will be up to John.  If he wishes to join the PTOA tour that
Gary and Mary are leading, we will do that; or if a rest day is in order, we
will accommodate that.  John will then head south on Monday to join up with
the Triumph Travelers in the San Francisco bay area, who have a great series
of celebrations planned.

See you all at Gee Creek!

Randy
Randy L. Bauder
H: 360-885-7540
C: 360-903-0925
Email: randy at rlbauderco.com"
______________________________________

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Aug 24 16:51:18 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 22:51:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <20090823194432482.VKLH16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <2017125018.3052421251154278364.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Me too. B Just for clarity, TRF is reselling the heat shields from Joe A.
>Several people have claimed that they actually notice better fuel mileage as
>well, meaning the amount of fuel being boiled away is significant.

Question, not an answer:B  Is 80 degrees F. really hot enough to cause vapor
lock without something else?



FWIW, I've installed the heat shields and have had no problems.B  Then again,
I drove the car a couple of seasons without a problem anyway.



Maybe it's karma, since clearly I am the hottest thing in my '3A?



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Aug 24 16:54:59 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 22:54:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Nice looking TR3
In-Reply-To: <4A91CC3F.9040508@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <2025731165.3053621251154499438.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>Gee, I should have taken a picture of the nice shiny new control 
>head I put in the steering column the other day. 

Insofar as any pragmatic Triumph theory of relativity, is it possible that control is prettiest to those who have it????? 



'Course, being married I can only theorize.... 



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A 

New Hampshire 

From earlbowman at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 24 12:08:55 2009
From: earlbowman at yahoo.com (Earl Bowman)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 11:08:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4 to TR4a exhaust manifold swap
Message-ID: <347112.78748.qm@web54404.mail.yahoo.com>

Hiho TR Neighbors,
Has  anyone done a swap of the TR4 exhaust manifold for the dual outlet TR4a
manifold?  My concern is routing the exhaust pipe through the center
cross-member behind my HVDA 5spd transmission conversion. Already tight
between the transmission and frame. Anyone BTDT? What parts were involved?
 
Earl

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 24 17:52:10 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 16:52:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <2017125018.3052421251154278364.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <20090823194432482.VKLH16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<2017125018.3052421251154278364.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B9B24080AF4C48869BA93894C4C14BB9@jdnet.deere.com>

> Question, not an answer:  Is 80 degrees F. really hot enough to cause
> vapor lock without something else?

Looks like the list must be down, as I only got a direct copy of this.

The short answer is "maybe".  The slightly longer answer is "I don't know".

First of all, we aren't talking about true "vapor lock", since carb heat
shields won't do anything to lower the temperature of fuel between the tank
and fuel pump (which is where vapor lock occurs).

Instead, the shield should help reduce the temperature of fuel in the
carburetors, both the jet and the float bowl.  These get heated directly by
radiant heat from the exhaust manifold, as well as hot air from the cooling
system and conduction from the engine.  There are several things that can
happen when the fuel gets hot, none of them are good.  Joe's shield helps
block radiant heat from the manifold, which of course depends on how hot the
manifold gets; more a function of engine state of tune than ambient
temperature.  If you've ever stopped on a hot day and tried to stick your
hand down there, you'll have a good idea of just how hot it gets!

The most severe problem is "percolation", where the fuel in the bottom of
the jet boils and pushes liquid fuel out the top of the jet (similar to the
way a percolator coffee pot works).  The liquid fuel runs out into the
intake manifold, where it can easily leave the mixture so rich that the
engine will not start (or run).

Anyway, although not every car will have problems even in high ambient
temperature, it seems clear that many do; and likely more will have trouble
with today's E10 gasoline than did before they started adding ethanol.  

Perhaps Don Elliott will repeat his story of how his TR3A ran fine, until he
made the mistake of buying a tank of US-spec fuel.

-- Randall

From deruiterville at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 24 17:52:43 2009
From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 18:52:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 to TR4a exhaust manifold swap
In-Reply-To: <347112.78748.qm@web54404.mail.yahoo.com>
References: <347112.78748.qm@web54404.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU112-W4B9787A2C16E17AAAE5C3B9F90@phx.gbl>

 HiHo Earl-



I've done that swap on my TR4.  The clearance is tight, especially with an
A-overdrive, but it bolted up with no modifications at all.  You need the
double downpipe from a TR4A-TR6, then the Y-pipe from a TR4A, and that will
mate to a TR3-4 rear exhaust setup.  The final tie-in is right where it needs
to be at the rear trans mount and in my case I could use the TR4 exhaust
hanger at that location.  Not sure I gained anything because of sticking with
the standard TR3-4 rear setup, but that's what I had at the time and it worked
fine.



Randy

64 TR4




> Hiho TR Neighbors,
> Has anyone done a swap of the TR4 exhaust manifold for the dual outlet TR4a
> manifold? My concern is routing the exhaust pipe through the center
> cross-member behind my HVDA 5spd transmission conversion. Already tight
> between the transmission and frame. Anyone BTDT? What parts were involved?
>
> Earl

_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Aug 24 18:08:12 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 18:08:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <B9B24080AF4C48869BA93894C4C14BB9@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <20090823194432482.VKLH16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com>
	<2017125018.3052421251154278364.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<B9B24080AF4C48869BA93894C4C14BB9@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4A932B6C.3080608@bradakis.com>

> Looks like the list must be down, as I only got a direct copy of this.
>
>   

Sometimes while working on Team.Net stuff, I have this bizarre dream 
that people actually
pay attention to me once in a while:

http://www.team.net/mharc/archives/html/triumphs/2009-08/msg00502.html


mjb.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 24 18:24:44 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 17:24:44 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <4A932B6C.3080608@bradakis.com>
References: <20090823194432482.VKLH16591@cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com><2017125018.3052421251154278364.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><B9B24080AF4C48869BA93894C4C14BB9@jdnet.deere.com>
	<4A932B6C.3080608@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <098F8A493187409AB25FA3542E660DFB@jdnet.deere.com>

> Sometimes while working on Team.Net stuff, I have this bizarre dream
> that people actually
> pay attention to me once in a while:

My apologies, Mark, I wasn't clear enough.  I did read your notice on
Saturday, and meant to say only that my reply was apparently composed during
the expected outage.  It most definitely was not intended as any sort of
criticism; in fact I stand in awe of Team.Net's outstanding uptime record.

Keep up the good work!

-- Randall 

From thomas309 at aol.com  Mon Aug 24 18:26:37 2009
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 20:26:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] MGB F/S - NFI craigslist
Message-ID: <c7b.5bf83fe2.37c489bd@aol.com>

_1967  MGB_ (http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/cto/1334481734.html)  

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Aug 24 18:49:49 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2009 20:49:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A fuel evaporation
In-Reply-To: <4A932B6C.3080608@bradakis.com>
References: <B9B24080AF4C48869BA93894C4C14BB9@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <4A92FCED.1646.555AE4@localhost>

On 24 Aug 2009 at 18:08, Mark J Bradakis wrote:

> Sometimes while working on Team.Net stuff, I have this bizarre
> dream that people actually pay attention to me once in a while:

Sorry, Mark, were you saying something?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From pfullam at nycap.rr.com  Mon Aug 24 22:05:19 2009
From: pfullam at nycap.rr.com (Peter Fullam)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 00:05:19 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 to TR4a exhaust manifold swap
In-Reply-To: <347112.78748.qm@web54404.mail.yahoo.com>
References: <347112.78748.qm@web54404.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001501ca2539$432b8690$c98293b0$@rr.com>

Hi Earl,

Years ago I put a 4A exhaust manifold on my 4. It bolts right up, but the #2
and #3 legs will interfere with the straight balance tube on the TR4 intake
manifold. The guy I bought the 4A manifold from had scarfed out clearances
in both manifolds to make them fit, and I had to do the same to my intake. I
used the 4A downpipe and Y pipe. It lasted for years, until the #4 leg broke
off. I went to a 4A intake manifold and a steel tube header.

Pete Fullam

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Earl Bowman
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 2:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR4 to TR4a exhaust manifold swap

Hiho TR Neighbors,
Has  anyone done a swap of the TR4 exhaust manifold for the dual outlet TR4a
manifold?  My concern is routing the exhaust pipe through the center
cross-member behind my HVDA 5spd transmission conversion. Already tight
between the transmission and frame. Anyone BTDT? What parts were involved?
 
Earl
_______________________________________________

From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com  Tue Aug 25 07:55:52 2009
From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 07:55:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] Free TR3 - TR6 Hubs
Message-ID: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC948313078CC8@emss02m11.us.lmco.com>

Free Parts - Last Chance to save parts from the crusher.....

Anyone interested in sparing a pair of used TR3 - TR6 Front Hub Assembly
for disc wheels (114284) with grease fitting and threaded end cap
(102689). This hub has been modified with grease fitting to allow
lubricating the hub without removal. In addition the end cap has been
modified by soldering a nut on the inside. To remove the cap you simply
screw a machine screw into the cap and pull it off with locking pliers -
what could be easier! 

This hub was in perfect working condition when I removed them and, as I
recall, the bearings have seen very little use.

You pay actual shipping costs and they are yours.

I'm currently generating 205 HP from my TR6 and I decided to upgrade to
custom front hubs and no longer need this stock hub. See
http://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_turbo.html for more information on my car.

Thanks

Lee

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 25 08:09:11 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 14:09:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Smells and wives
In-Reply-To: <6D6B12EC1A8F4CE7A3D9D52BA0CDEF01@DCH6RFC1>
References: <7bfc62290908210356g18d16f15v26994735eb145061@mail.gmail.com><4A8E4B10.9461.29370835@localhost><6B6AD956C0A04508BA48A9D88EB764ED@jdnet.deere.com><E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
	<7F721786FFC0481C95FA5B450ABA935A@userb38463fba5>
	<A8CB0EE557ED401BBF2F30C8C03AA74E@DCH6RFC1>
	<BAY110-W326C494C4BDC3DDF3843ECE5FA0@phx.gbl>
	<6D6B12EC1A8F4CE7A3D9D52BA0CDEF01@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W90BC8627545226C64C047E5F80@phx.gbl>

Not an attorney, just a divorcee.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1

From earlbowman at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 25 09:10:07 2009
From: earlbowman at yahoo.com (Earl Bowman)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 08:10:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR4a manifold swap
Message-ID: <123786.90837.qm@web54401.mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks to Randy and Pete for your input. I should have mentioned I'm already
running a TR4a intake manifold with the factory PCV. Does anyone think there
would be a noticable gain from switching to the dual outlet exhaust system
from the center frame member back, or would the two-into-one restriction at
the center member render it pointless? Also, any performance per
dollar thoughts on the TR4a exhaust manifold vs. a tubular header? 
 
Thanks,
 
Earl

From carlsereda at aol.com  Tue Aug 25 09:15:10 2009
From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 08:15:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4A exhaust to TR4
In-Reply-To: <mailman.177.1251208598.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F3572B38.3D7C.4BBF.8E70.4C6E2135611B@aol.com>

Hi Earl,
Moss sells a version of the so-called Y PIPE in 2 pieces as apposed to 
the original 1-piece design. I think this may better suite your 
situation in getting around through tight spaces by allowing another 
point where you can turn/adjust the connector pipe (which was 
previously welded to the Y collector). The original 1-piece Y PIPE was 
for a TR4A frame and the TR4 frame is quite different, plus your added 
variable of a different tranny could make for a trickier path. A few 
years back only MossUK sold the 2-piece Y PIPE but now I believe you 
can get it from MossUS. The TR4A improved exhaust manifold was 
actually the second half of the improved TR breathing system. The 
first half was the late TR4 intake manifold. There is no fitting 
problems using a 'late' TR4 intake with the TR4A exhaust manifold. And 
together was said to be worth 4 horsepower.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

> Hiho TR Neighbors,
> Has anyone done a swap of the TR4 exhaust manifold for the dual 
> outlet TR4a
> manifold? My concern is routing the exhaust pipe through the center
> cross-member behind my HVDA 5spd transmission conversion. Already 
> tight
> between the transmission and frame. Anyone BTDT? What parts were 
> involved?
> 
> Earl

From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com  Tue Aug 25 09:56:59 2009
From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 09:56:59 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 - TR6 Hubs are gone
Message-ID: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC948313079168@emss02m11.us.lmco.com>

I already have a taker for the hubs.....

 

Also it looks like I provide a bad link for my web site - here is a
valid link:

 

http://www.turbo-tr6.info

 

There is information about multiple turbo'ed Triumphs.

Later

Lee

From dkspence at telus.net  Tue Aug 25 11:02:43 2009
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:02:43 -0600
Subject: [TR] Change Oil
In-Reply-To: <mailman.176.1251208598.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.176.1251208598.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <87781C21-CDE4-4497-B0EB-A4C367935BA1@telus.net>

Did you drop the oil pan and scrape /clean it thoroughly? New gasket?

If it was me, I'd run the first oil and filter for 500 miles max then  
go to a regular schedule.  The new oil was a high detergent oil,  
correct?
For the price of an oil change (and filter) it's cheap insurance.

I'd be looking at changing any rubber hoses, gaskets etc. in the fuel  
system too.

When you say replaced all the hydraulics I hope you mean new master  
cylinders, slave /wheel cylinders and not just the brake fluid.

Sounds like a lucky find. Enjoy!
Don



On 25-Aug-09, at 7:56 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> Date: August 24, 2009 10:00:39 AM MDT (CA)
> To: "email list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] change oil
>
>
> we recently found a car that had been sitting in a garage for 30 +  
> years. changed all the fuids, replaced all the hydraulics, and now  
> have it running and driving.
>
> my question is: should i watch the oil and change it when it's  
> dirty?  wait 3 months?  anyone have any thoughts about how soon i  
> should change the oil again or am i ok going back on a regular  
> schedule?

From nafzigerg at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 25 12:38:46 2009
From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:38:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] valve lash on S2 cam
Message-ID: <618471.45995.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

just wondering what valve settings guys are using on bigger cams.  lift
.405-duration .282.  S2 cam from TSI, Pandora, Ohio.  He recommended .013
but I read of others with higher gaps......... plus some who are using
differant settings for exhaust/intake.

thanks!

gary n.

From rhelman at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 12:46:11 2009
From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:46:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] New starter
Message-ID: <779de48e0908251146q64303545wb2eb4aee683ca9a9@mail.gmail.com>

I am trying to fit the reduction gear starter I got from TRF to my 71 TR6
with a free flow header and a dual falcon exhaust.

I am having problems with it hitting the free flow header where the
intermediate pipes connect to the header.  It seems like the new starter
is shorter but a little bigger around than the stock one.

Has anyone else run into this problem ?



Roger

-- 
Roger Helman
rhelman at gmail.com

From emanteno at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 12:49:05 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 13:49:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] valve lash on S2 cam
In-Reply-To: <618471.45995.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <618471.45995.qm@web59404.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <354a1780908251149n25f6b1ddi4a7904622250fa69@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 1:38 PM, Gary Nafziger <nafzigerg at yahoo.com> wrote:

> just wondering what valve settings guys are using on bigger cams.  lift
> .405-duration .282.  S2 cam from TSI, Pandora, Ohio.  He recommended .013
> but I read of others with higher gaps......... plus some who are using
> differant settings for exhaust/intake.
>


Valve settings are recommended by the cam producers, and you should use what
your cam provider tells you, not what others are using with different cams.
Also, you need to follow your cam producer's recommendations as to whether
you set the valves cold or hot.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 13:43:18 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:43:18 +0000
Subject: [TR] Change Oil
In-Reply-To: <87781C21-CDE4-4497-B0EB-A4C367935BA1@telus.net>
Message-ID: <0014853d2062ce3aff0471fc8b87@google.com>

If it were me, I'd do the same as Don - after a few hundred miles, change  
the oil. I'd also install a magnetic plug if there isn't one there already  
- it might cost you a pint of oil to get it in, but worth seeing what metal  
is in the oil. I'd replace the flexible brake lines and all the seals in  
the hydraulics if you haven't already.
Check the carbs for leaks too, when running (under pressure from the fuel  
pump). Those many seals have been dry for so long, they may have suffered.  
A TRF carb rebuild kit will address any concerns.

The workshop manual has 6k, 12k services you should probably work your way  
through too.

Good luck,

Brian

On Aug 25, 2009 1:02pm, Don Spence <dkspence at telus.net> wrote:
> Did you drop the oil pan and scrape /clean it thoroughly? New gasket?



> If it was me, I'd run the first oil and filter for 500 miles max then

> go to a regular schedule. The new oil was a high detergent oil,

> correct?

> For the price of an oil change (and filter) it's cheap insurance.



> I'd be looking at changing any rubber hoses, gaskets etc. in the fuel

> system too.



> When you say replaced all the hydraulics I hope you mean new master

> cylinders, slave /wheel cylinders and not just the brake fluid.



> Sounds like a lucky find. Enjoy!

> Don







> On 25-Aug-09, at 7:56 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:



> > From: "oliver" sumton at sbcglobal.net>

> > Date: August 24, 2009 10:00:39 AM MDT (CA)

> > To: "email list" triumphs at autox.team.net>

> > Subject: [TR] change oil

> >

> >

> > we recently found a car that had been sitting in a garage for 30 +

> > years. changed all the fuids, replaced all the hydraulics, and now

> > have it running and driving.

> >

> > my question is: should i watch the oil and change it when it's

> > dirty? wait 3 months? anyone have any thoughts about how soon i

> > should change the oil again or am i ok going back on a regular

> > schedule?

> _______________________________________________



> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html



> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register

> http://www.vtr.org





> Triumphs at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs





> http://www.team.net/archive

From TR4Zest at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 13:43:28 2009
From: TR4Zest at gmail.com (TR4Zest at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:43:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] Change Oil
In-Reply-To: <87781C21-CDE4-4497-B0EB-A4C367935BA1@telus.net>
Message-ID: <001485e3e1fc6882440471fc8c8a@google.com>

If it were me, I'd do the same as Don - after a few hundred miles, change  
the oil. I'd also install a magnetic plug if there isn't one there already  
- it might cost you a pint of oil to get it in, but worth seeing what metal  
is in the oil. I'd replace the flexible brake lines and all the seals in  
the hydraulics if you haven't already.
Check the carbs for leaks too, when running (under pressure from the fuel  
pump). Those many seals have been dry for so long, they may have suffered.  
A TRF carb rebuild kit will address any concerns.

The workshop manual has 6k, 12k services you should probably work your way  
through too.

Good luck,

Brian

On Aug 25, 2009 1:02pm, Don Spence <dkspence at telus.net> wrote:
> Did you drop the oil pan and scrape /clean it thoroughly? New gasket?



> If it was me, I'd run the first oil and filter for 500 miles max then

> go to a regular schedule. The new oil was a high detergent oil,

> correct?

> For the price of an oil change (and filter) it's cheap insurance.



> I'd be looking at changing any rubber hoses, gaskets etc. in the fuel

> system too.



> When you say replaced all the hydraulics I hope you mean new master

> cylinders, slave /wheel cylinders and not just the brake fluid.



> Sounds like a lucky find. Enjoy!

> Don







> On 25-Aug-09, at 7:56 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:



> > From: "oliver" sumton at sbcglobal.net>

> > Date: August 24, 2009 10:00:39 AM MDT (CA)

> > To: "email list" triumphs at autox.team.net>

> > Subject: [TR] change oil

> >

> >

> > we recently found a car that had been sitting in a garage for 30 +

> > years. changed all the fuids, replaced all the hydraulics, and now

> > have it running and driving.

> >

> > my question is: should i watch the oil and change it when it's

> > dirty? wait 3 months? anyone have any thoughts about how soon i

> > should change the oil again or am i ok going back on a regular

> > schedule?

> _______________________________________________



> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html



> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register

> http://www.vtr.org





> Triumphs at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs





> http://www.team.net/archive

From rhelman at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 13:58:07 2009
From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 12:58:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] New starter
In-Reply-To: <570388.72262.qm@web82808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <779de48e0908251146q64303545wb2eb4aee683ca9a9@mail.gmail.com>
	<570388.72262.qm@web82808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <779de48e0908251258o76d7550ep6f634fa898d72091@mail.gmail.com>

Oliver,

Right, I did have to remove the intake + carbs and the exhaust header to get
the original starter off.  Length wise there is plenty of room, but the
bottom of the new gear reduction starter interfers with the exhaust header.

Did you have any problems installing the new gear reduction style starter?


Roger
On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 12:52 PM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>   i believe on my car, with headers, we had to disconnect the
> intake/exhaust manifold to replace the stock starter with the gear reduction
> unit.
>
> --- On *Tue, 8/25/09, Roger Helman <rhelman at gmail.com>* wrote:
>
>
> From: Roger Helman <rhelman at gmail.com>
> Subject: [TR] New starter
> To: "Triumph Email List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 2009, 1:46 PM
>
>   I am trying to fit the reduction gear starter I got from TRF to my 71
> TR6
> with a free flow header and a dual falcon exhaust.
>
> I am having problems with it hitting the free flow header where the
> intermediate pipes connect to the header.  It seems like the new starter
> is shorter but a little bigger around than the stock one.
>
> Has anyone else run into this problem ?
>
>
>
> Roger
>
> --
> Roger Helman
> rhelman at gmail.com<http://us.mc828.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=rhelman at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
>
>


-- 
Roger Helman
rhelman at gmail.com

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Tue Aug 25 14:41:13 2009
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Diggle)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 08:41:13 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR4a manifold swap
Message-ID: <MDEGKJLBNCELPDNOLLOPMECDCAAA.diggle@clear.net.nz>

I am about to do install a TR4A exhaust on my 62 TR4.
Apparently its compatible with my car if I use the exhaust manifold in
conjunction with the 4A inlet which I also have.
I purchased the double down pipe that bolts onto the manifold but my budget
means that I will not be able to buy the the piece that bolts onto the
downpipe through to the middle of the chassis.
Instead I have had a collecter welded onto the downpipe that reduces it to
one pipe.
I will then cut the old pipe that goes through the chassis and connect it to
the new modified downpipe.
The cost of importing the piece that connects the downpipe to the rest of
the exhaust is very high considering I live in New Zealand.
Also I suspect that because that piece was made for a TR4A chassis I would
have to modify it anyway.
Modifying the downpipe was very cheap to do.
Will it be worth it for 4HP, hmmmm, who cares its too late now to worry
about silly things like that now.
PS I used the mild steel downpipe instead of the stainless one as its made
of thicker metal which gives a deeper nicer exhaust note.

Jim and the 62 TR4

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Aug 25 14:44:25 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 16:44:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] New starter
In-Reply-To: <779de48e0908251146q64303545wb2eb4aee683ca9a9@mail.gmail.com>
References: <779de48e0908251146q64303545wb2eb4aee683ca9a9@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E7F9495885BA4239865B3B86336B76CE@BOBSNEWPC>

You might want to talk to Ted Schmaucher
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ When I ordered my starter from him, the
first thing he asked was if I had headers as there can be a fit problem.
Once you figure out the fit, I came up with a pretty easy way to install the
starter while keeping your sanity http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Starter.htm
It involves forceps, a magnet and a cool wrench.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Helman
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 2:46 PM
To: Triumph Email List
Subject: [TR] New starter

I am trying to fit the reduction gear starter I got from TRF to my 71 TR6
with a free flow header and a dual falcon exhaust.

I am having problems with it hitting the free flow header where the
intermediate pipes connect to the header.  It seems like the new starter is
shorter but a little bigger around than the stock one.

Has anyone else run into this problem ?



Roger

--
Roger Helman
rhelman at gmail.com
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From dlylis at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 14:48:04 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 16:48:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A Modified Sidecurtains
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908251348ga781d89o6bf2b059f99986e5@mail.gmail.com>

I have had some requests to share pics and details of my sidecurtain
project.  If you have more questions you can email me directly.

http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc88/TRG69/TR3A%20Sidecurtains/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 25 15:09:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 14:09:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] New starter
In-Reply-To: <E7F9495885BA4239865B3B86336B76CE@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <779de48e0908251146q64303545wb2eb4aee683ca9a9@mail.gmail.com>
	<E7F9495885BA4239865B3B86336B76CE@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <2BF73B37DE6E43EE92293D0B3D37837E@jdnet.deere.com>

> It involves forceps, a magnet and a cool wrench.

I don't know how well this would work on a TR6; but it works great on a TR3:
Just put a Helicoil into the transmission bellhousing, and install the bolt
from the starter side.

-- Randall 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 25 15:15:49 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 14:15:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4a manifold swap
In-Reply-To: <MDEGKJLBNCELPDNOLLOPMECDCAAA.diggle@clear.net.nz>
References: <MDEGKJLBNCELPDNOLLOPMECDCAAA.diggle@clear.net.nz>
Message-ID: <6D07B065B4034B19A7BF558EE0A0CF75@jdnet.deere.com>

> The cost of importing the piece that connects the downpipe to the rest of
> the exhaust is very high considering I live in New Zealand.

Doesn't NZ have "muffler shops"?  Faced with a similar problem on a friend's
car, we just took it to the local muffler shop, who welded the required
piece together from stock tubing.

I don't recall what that cost, but a complete dual system including
crossover for the Stag (but using my existing head pipes since they were in
good condition) was less than 300 USD.

Same shop just put a custom dual muffler system on my TR3 for about $200.
Took less than an hour from when I showed up to when I drove away, which is
less than it would have taken me just to remove the rusty old bits.

I probably won't have anyone insisting that it's a V8 like I did with the
single muffler system he built for the previous TR3A, but I'm quite happy
with the new milder sound.

-- Randall 

From rengrave at verizon.net  Tue Aug 25 15:23:03 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 17:23:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
Message-ID: <FE5203982DEE41698FA245DBF6EB0256@RossFamily>

Does anyone know approx. what the weight is for an assembled TR6 engine
including crank, pistons/rods, head, cam, rockers, oil pump, oil pan?
No manifolds, no gearbox..
I have an electric cable winch I can borrow from work (500 # rating), and I
want to make
sure it can lift the rebuilt engine.

Thanks,
Wayne
73 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 25 15:32:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 14:32:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
In-Reply-To: <FE5203982DEE41698FA245DBF6EB0256@RossFamily>
References: <FE5203982DEE41698FA245DBF6EB0256@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <9ADB9EECCD8A47398046DC0EBA66DACE@jdnet.deere.com>

> Does anyone know approx. what the weight is for an assembled TR6 engine
> including crank, pistons/rods, head, cam, rockers, oil pump, oil pan?
> No manifolds, no gearbox..

I have an old message saved from Dan Masters, which gives 460 lbs including
manifolds, carbs, clutch, etc. (but no fluids or gearbox).

Yours will be lighter without manifolds & carbs, so should be no problem
with a 500# winch.  But you might want to double-check that it is rated for
overhead lifting (some will not hold the weight they are rated to pull) and
of course be sure you have something solid to attach it to.

-- Randall 

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Tue Aug 25 16:49:19 2009
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 17:49:19 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
Message-ID: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>

1972 Triumph TR6.  Trunk light not working, bulb looks good.  Want to determine if the holder is getting power or it is the trunk light switch.  I have a dwell/volt meter that says it can be used for this.

If I select volts and attach the two leads to where the bulb plugs in, it should show something if it is getting power, and nothing if it is not getting power, correct?  I don't want to fry anything.

No fuses are blown, checked that.  Quick input appreciated.

Craig Nicholls
Vienna, VA

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Aug 25 17:13:55 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:13:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsr
	vcs.net>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <YnDb1c00241jCx405nDbsW@charter.net>

At 06:49 PM 8/25/2009, you wrote:


>If I select volts and attach the two leads to where the bulb plugs 
>in, it should show something if it is getting power, and nothing if 
>it is not getting power, correct?  I don't want to fry anything.

Power goes from fuse > purple wire > lamp > purple/white wire > 
switch according to <http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf>

So, check the fuse, then check between the purple wire and ground 
(bare metal) at the lamp holder.  If that shows voltage (12V) check 
the purple/white to ground.  If you have voltage there, most likely 
the problem is in the switch, which I recall is by the boot hinge.

Cheers,
Jeff



Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Tue Aug 25 17:14:52 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:14:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <4A94382C.25760.524CC28@localhost>

On 25 Aug 2009 at 17:49, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:

> If I select volts and attach the two leads to where the bulb plugs
> in, it should show something if it is getting power, and nothing
> if it is not getting power, correct?  I don't want to fry anything.

If the meter isn't broken it won't blow anything, so don't worry 
about that.  If you have the wires attached backwards, the meter may 
try to jump backwards if it is a needle and meter display, or the 
digital display may show a negative voltage, but that's okay too.

If you just have a burned out bulb, you should see voltage between 
those terminal.  But maybe you won't see any voltage at all.  It is 
possible the wiring isn't right and the bulb is fine, or both could 
be a problem.  For example, the ground side (i.e. the "negative" 
side) may simply have a poor connection to ground.  I don't know what 
the TR6 trunk switch is like, but the one on my Spitfire sometimes 
just doesn't make good contact to ground unless it it is jiggled a 
bit.  A problem like that would make the reading be zero.  Maybe you 
don't even know which terminal is positive and which is ground.  So 
another test is to attach the meter's negative wire to a good chassis 
ground, not paint, then touch the other wire to each of the terminals 
in the light socket.  When you touch the positive side the meter will 
show it.  If neither side shows a positive voltage and you are 
absolutely sure your ground connection is good, then the problem is 
in the wiring that feeds power to the socket.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From dlylis at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 18:14:06 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (David Lylis)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 20:14:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <4A94382C.25760.524CC28@localhost>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
	<4A94382C.25760.524CC28@localhost>
Message-ID: <2a7657b60908251714u2d1be61dm3d65357d6529c738@mail.gmail.com>

It is likely a ground issue.  Red wire on the tester to the wire to the bulb
and black wire on the tester to ground.  If a 72 is like my 69 when you open
the trunk lid the plunger is released near the right side hinge, and a
ground is created and the bulb lights.  I am assuming mine is correct.
Test your holder creating a new ground with the tester.  If it indicates
current and the bulb is known to be good, check out that ground switch.
Cool design BTW.  If the ground fails, and makes a ground with the trunk
closed. your battery has an unfortunate message for you.

On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 7:14 PM, Jim Muller <jimmuller at rcn.com> wrote:

> On 25 Aug 2009 at 17:49, thenicholls at verizon.net wrote:
>
> > If I select volts and attach the two leads to where the bulb plugs
> > in, it should show something if it is getting power, and nothing
> > if it is not getting power, correct?  I don't want to fry anything.
>
> If the meter isn't broken it won't blow anything, so don't worry
> about that.  If you have the wires attached backwards, the meter may
> try to jump backwards if it is a needle and meter display, or the
> digital display may show a negative voltage, but that's okay too.
>
> If you just have a burned out bulb, you should see voltage between
> those terminal.  But maybe you won't see any voltage at all.  It is
> possible the wiring isn't right and the bulb is fine, or both could
> be a problem.  For example, the ground side (i.e. the "negative"
> side) may simply have a poor connection to ground.  I don't know what
> the TR6 trunk switch is like, but the one on my Spitfire sometimes
> just doesn't make good contact to ground unless it it is jiggled a
> bit.  A problem like that would make the reading be zero.  Maybe you
> don't even know which terminal is positive and which is ground.  So
> another test is to attach the meter's negative wire to a good chassis
> ground, not paint, then touch the other wire to each of the terminals
> in the light socket.  When you touch the positive side the meter will
> show it.  If neither side shows a positive voltage and you are
> absolutely sure your ground connection is good, then the problem is
> in the wiring that feeds power to the socket.
>
> --
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jmcoh at comcast.net  Tue Aug 25 18:31:08 2009
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 20:31:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1>

Not to state the obvious, but on my '76, the parking lights need to be on
for the boot light to work.

John Cohen
Rutland, VT
76 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
thenicholls at verizon.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 6:49 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical

1972 Triumph TR6.  Trunk light not working, bulb looks good.  Want to
determine if the holder is getting power or it is the trunk light switch.  I
have a dwell/volt meter that says it can be used for this.

If I select volts and attach the two leads to where the bulb plugs in, it
should show something if it is getting power, and nothing if it is not
getting power, correct?  I don't want to fry anything.

No fuses are blown, checked that.  Quick input appreciated.

Craig Nicholls
Vienna, VA

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Tue Aug 25 21:55:51 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 20:55:51 -0700
Subject: [TR]  New starter
References: <mailman.275.1251242021.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000401ca2601$1b187190$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Huh?
I removed the old starter and installed the Gustafson from the top.
All I removed was the air cleaner. The top nut/washer bolt was a tricky
install.
1971 TR6
Bob

> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 11:46:11 -0700
> From: Roger Helman <rhelman at gmail.com>
> Subject: [TR] New starter
> To: Triumph Email List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID:
> <779de48e0908251146q64303545wb2eb4aee683ca9a9 at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> I am trying to fit the reduction gear starter I got from TRF to my 71 TR6
> with a free flow header and a dual falcon exhaust.
> I am having problems with it hitting the free flow header where the
> intermediate pipes connect to the header.  It seems like the new starter
> is shorter but a little bigger around than the stock one.
>
> Has anyone else run into this problem ?
>
> Roger






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
Database version: 6.13120
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Aug 25 19:27:10 2009
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:27:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
	<6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1>
Message-ID: <4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com>

> Not to state the obvious, but on my '76, the parking lights need to be on
> for the boot light to work.
>   
Someone in the past has mucked with your wiring.  The trunk light should 
come
on when the trunk is open, regardless of the position of the lighting 
switch or
whether or not the ignition is on.  Same as the glovebox light, or horns.
 The power comes from a fused feed directly from 12 volts via a purple
wire.  Sounds like someone decided to not actually fix your wiring some
time ago but just fed the trunk light circuit  off a taillight wire.

mjb.

From KENCORSAW at aol.com  Tue Aug 25 19:51:34 2009
From: KENCORSAW at aol.com (KENCORSAW at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:51:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] Valve lash S2 cam
Message-ID: <d21.58f9ad78.37c5ef26@aol.com>

In a recent eMail from Ted Schumacher, he suggested that .014 intake and  
.016 exhaust was a good "starting point". 

From trglory at verizon.net  Tue Aug 25 20:08:42 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:08:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
	<6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1>
	<4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <00ed01ca25f2$22ba52b0$682ef810$@net>

Ummmmm....ditto on my '75.....the boot light doesn't work without the
parking lights. I checked my neighbor's '75 and that works the same way.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 9:27 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical

> Not to state the obvious, but on my '76, the parking lights need to be 
> on for the boot light to work.
>   
Someone in the past has mucked with your wiring.  The trunk light should
come on when the trunk is open, regardless of the position of the lighting
switch or whether or not the ignition is on.  Same as the glovebox light, or
horns.
 The power comes from a fused feed directly from 12 volts via a purple wire.
Sounds like someone decided to not actually fix your wiring some time ago
but just fed the trunk light circuit  off a taillight wire.

mjb.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Aug 25 20:29:39 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:29:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <00ed01ca25f2$22ba52b0$682ef810$@net>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net><6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1><4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com>
	<00ed01ca25f2$22ba52b0$682ef810$@net>
Message-ID: <CDD0FA778A4F4D42A1803C3B970DD483@BOBSNEWPC>

Check the AAW (AKA Masters) wiring schematics and you'll see that it changed
in '74 to requiring the headlight switch to be on for the trunk light to
work. We just had a thread on this in the 6-Pack Forum.  


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Laurito
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 10:09 PM
To: 'Mark J Bradakis'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical

Ummmmm....ditto on my '75.....the boot light doesn't work without the
parking lights. I checked my neighbor's '75 and that works the same way.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 9:27 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical

> Not to state the obvious, but on my '76, the parking lights need to be 
> on for the boot light to work.
>   
Someone in the past has mucked with your wiring.  The trunk light should
come on when the trunk is open, regardless of the position of the lighting
switch or whether or not the ignition is on.  Same as the glovebox light, or
horns.
 The power comes from a fused feed directly from 12 volts via a purple wire.
Sounds like someone decided to not actually fix your wiring some time ago
but just fed the trunk light circuit  off a taillight wire.

mjb.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://www.team.net/archive

From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com  Tue Aug 25 20:38:21 2009
From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 19:38:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] Camshaft Bearing Replacement
Message-ID: <000001ca25f6$47778c40$d666a4c0$@rr.com>

Hi Folks,

The two manuals  I have on the TR4A really don't describe how the garage
mechanic can replace these bearings. The Bentley manuals describes removing
(and I'm guessing, installing) the bearings using a special tool - which I
don't have. They Haynes manual describes the process as if the bearings
"float" under spring tension, but I don't think that's correct.

 

Can someone enlighten me on this process? Do I need the special tool? If so,
is there a make-shift one I can build?

 

Thanks!

Johnnie

'67 TR4A

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Aug 25 20:49:41 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:49:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <00ed01ca25f2$22ba52b0$682ef810$@net>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
	<6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1>
	<4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com> <00ed01ca25f2$22ba52b0$682ef810$@net>
Message-ID: <YqpE1c00D41jCx405qpKRj@charter.net>

At 10:08 PM 8/25/2009, you wrote:
>Ummmmm....ditto on my '75.....the boot light doesn't work without the
>parking lights. I checked my neighbor's '75 and that works the same way.

Change made for the 1974 model year, according to the link I posted earlier.

From emanteno at gmail.com  Tue Aug 25 20:54:23 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:54:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <CDD0FA778A4F4D42A1803C3B970DD483@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
	<6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1>
	<4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com> <00ed01ca25f2$22ba52b0$682ef810$@net>
	<CDD0FA778A4F4D42A1803C3B970DD483@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <354a1780908251954y25a76845t4dc04a3f75671cec@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 9:29 PM, Bob Danielson <
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> Check the AAW (AKA Masters) wiring schematics and you'll see that it
> changed
> in '74 to requiring the headlight switch to be on for the trunk light to
> work. We just had a thread on this in the 6-Pack Forum.


And then, once you do get it to work, you'll discover that it doesn't throw
any useful light and that you should carry a flashlight if you want to see
what's in the boot at night.

;-)

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Tue Aug 25 21:35:58 2009
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:35:58 -0600
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
Message-ID: <DACD8974890848CC85D8D557C6A718BA@ultimate7>

I have a TR3 that sat for years and I am trying to get road-legal.  I have
almost everything ready (crossing fingers), but I can't get the signals to
work.  It seems like they did when I started the project a few years ago,
but I'm not sure.  

 

Can anyone tell me a good way to troubleshoot or what would commonly go
wrong?  I am thinking either the blinker relay or switch, since none of the
lights work.  What should I expect at the relay?  I have three wires, a
center and one on each side, but none of them are labeled on the relay and
at this point all wires are grease black.

 

Best way to check continuity along the wires?

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I don't have the front lights wired up yet, because without the rear ones
working and I can't verify which wire at the front corresponds to the
signal.  All the rest of the lights work. Headlights, running lights, brake
lights, etc.

 

Thanks,

Jeremiah

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Tue Aug 25 21:38:22 2009
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 23:38:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <354a1780908251954y25a76845t4dc04a3f75671cec@mail.gmail.com>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net><6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1><4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com>
	<00ed01ca25f2$22ba52b0$682ef810$@net><CDD0FA778A4F4D42A1803C3B970DD483@BOBSNEWPC>
	<354a1780908251954y25a76845t4dc04a3f75671cec@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CBF415CBF0BDAB-A44-34E0B@webmail-m039.sysops.aol.com>

 Or do what I did and install a second light on the opposite side.? Damn, there goes my concours points.


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Irv Korey <emanteno at gmail.com>
To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Aug 25, 2009 10:54 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical










On Tue, Aug 25, 2009 at 9:29 PM, Bob Danielson <
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> Check the AAW (AKA Masters) wiring schematics and you'll see that it
> changed
> in '74 to requiring the headlight switch to be on for the trunk light to
> work. We just had a thread on this in the 6-Pack Forum.


And then, once you do get it to work, you'll discover that it doesn't throw
any useful light and that you should carry a flashlight if you want to see
what's in the boot at night.

;-)

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Tue Aug 25 22:09:16 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 00:09:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw:  TR3A Grill Opening
Message-ID: <AF7BC3C13C7C488C8F3D87562C517F21@CarlPC>

Last Sunday as a day of success...

 I created a 'jig' of sorts.  The apron is off the tub and I was not be able
 to mount it to fix it.  The apron was sitting on a metal sawhorse (at the
 cross support at the top); I stacked 2x4's under the front center (screwing
 each into the one below it) with a 2x4x43 on top of that fastening through
 the fender holes at each end.  That created a solid base for it to sit on.
 I then anchored it at the top by attaching 2x4s between the crossmember and
 the workbench.

 I also trimmed a 2x4x24 to match the contour of the top of the grill as the
 pressure piece.  I put a 30" piece of 1/2" conduit on the back side of the
 "lip" so that it wouldn't "crush".  It had enough flex for the curves which
 is good but it was a hassle to keep it in place.  I then placed a 2x12 
under
 the scissor jack anchoring the wood platform at the back with a clamp.

 I spread the opening about 1 1/4" and then when I released it, it settled 
in
 at the exact spot I needed (about 3/4").  The grill fits perfectly.

 I have some images if anyone is interested.

 Thanks to Tom Fansher, Tom Householder, & Hans de Ferrante...

 Oh,  I did take it to the tub (which isn't mounted on the chassis) and
 everything lined up like it should.

 Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Tue Aug 25 22:32:45 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:32:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 (alternator conversion) modified fan belt size
Message-ID: <355249.41169.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     About 7 or 8 years ago I bought an alternator conversion kit for my TR3A.
I got it from somewhere back east. It might have been BAR (British Auto
Restorations), but I am not sure. It came with a Gates cogged belt that was
like a 12354 size or something like that. I kept the belt tag stored so I
could remember the size, but now I have misplaced that and the belt number has
worn off of the belt and the belt looks like hell. Did anyone else buy this
kit and keep the belt number written down somewhere? Can you email it to me
please if you do.     I may just have to wimp out and go to the FLAPS with the
removed belt and get it sized, but would rather just order the belt and change
it on the fly.     TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Aug 25 22:43:34 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:43:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <DACD8974890848CC85D8D557C6A718BA@ultimate7>
References: <DACD8974890848CC85D8D557C6A718BA@ultimate7>
Message-ID: <D6468BF86E914634A02D742A373DF908@bboffice>

Jeremiah,
It will be much easier to run the wires out if you can determine the colors.
Short of replacing the wiring harness and having a fresh start, never a bad
idea when you have lots of problems to resolve, start with a wiring diagram
and check each wire end-to-end and be sure the connections are tight and
clean and there is no shorting to ground.  In a car that has been sitting
for a long time, I would think the wire connections should get a hard look. 

Sounds like a huge undertaking but not too bad on a TR3, especially if you
can talk someone into helping you out.  

Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 9:36 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] signals don't work

I have a TR3 that sat for years and I am trying to get road-legal.  I have
almost everything ready (crossing fingers), but I can't get the signals to
work.  It seems like they did when I started the project a few years ago,
but I'm not sure.  

 

Can anyone tell me a good way to troubleshoot or what would commonly go
wrong?  I am thinking either the blinker relay or switch, since none of the
lights work.  What should I expect at the relay?  I have three wires, a
center and one on each side, but none of them are labeled on the relay and
at this point all wires are grease black.

 

Best way to check continuity along the wires?

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

I don't have the front lights wired up yet, because without the rear ones
working and I can't verify which wire at the front corresponds to the
signal.  All the rest of the lights work. Headlights, running lights, brake
lights, etc.

 

Thanks,

Jeremiah
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 25 22:47:25 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:47:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <DACD8974890848CC85D8D557C6A718BA@ultimate7>
Message-ID: <20090826044725495.ZIDR12674@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Can anyone tell me a good way to troubleshoot

I would start at the flasher unit (aka relay) on the firewall.  Turn the
ignition on and use a voltmeter, DMM or test light to verify that you have
12v on both of the side tabs.  

If neither side has 12v, then the fuse is blown or there is a wiring problem
somewhere between the flasher and the ignition switch.  In that case, I
would move back to the fuse block and check there that there is 12v on all 5
terminals.

If there is 12v on one side of the flasher but not the other, most likely
the flasher is bad.  You can temporarily connect a jumper between the two
side terminals for further testing, but with the jumper, the turn signals
will not flash, only light solid.

If you do find 12v on both sides of the flasher, then I would turn the
switch in the control head to one side or the other, and check again at the
flasher.  If the power "went away", see above.

Then check the 3 smaller wires of the 4 that go into the subharness that
runs into the steering box (at the sleeves where they join with the rest of
the harness).  Two of them should have 12v.  If only one has 12v, there is a
problem with the switch in the control head, or the subharness inside the
steering column.  If neither has 12v, there is a wiring problem somewhere
between there and the flasher unit.

Note that, if your car is LHS, the wire between the flasher and control head
pops out of the harness near the RH horn, and has a sleeve to another wire
in the harness that comes out near the LH horn (where it is attached to the
wire to the control head).  If that RH sleeve is disconnected or broken
internally, that would keep the 12v from getting from the flasher to the
control head connection.

That should be enough to get you started.  Report back with your findings.

One other point, the flasher (relay) will not work properly without both
turn signal bulbs connected to it.  It should do something (eg flash very
slow or very fast, perhaps just light them solid) but some units may not
conduct at all.  This is where the jumper at the flasher comes in handy, you
can get all the lights working properly and then try the flasher again.

Also worth noting, perhaps, that only the last 4000 or so TR3s had two brake
lights.  Before TS18913, there was only a single brake light in the middle.
You wouldn't be the first to find that someone has tried to change that,
without really understanding what they were doing.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 25 22:53:09 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:53:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Camshaft Bearing Replacement
In-Reply-To: <000001ca25f6$47778c40$d666a4c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <20090826045309906.ZKEI12674@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> Can someone enlighten me on this process? Do I need the special tool? If
> so,
> is there a make-shift one I can build?

Yup, need the special tool.  But it's basically just two mandrels, one to
fit into the bearing shell and be pulled by a length of threaded rod, and
the other to hold the threaded rod centered in the front bearing opening.

Many decades ago I paid a local machinist to turn the bearing mandrel for me
on his lathe; and welded some nuts & flat washers to an old cam bearing to
make the front mandrel.  I'd happily loan you those tools, but I have no
idea where they are; no doubt lost by now.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Aug 25 23:18:27 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2009 22:18:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] signals don't work
In-Reply-To: <D6468BF86E914634A02D742A373DF908@bboffice>
Message-ID: <20090826051827345.GBEN6799@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> It will be much easier to run the wires out if you can determine the
> colors.

If Jeremiah's TR3 is anything like mine, that is simply not an option.
Those wires might have had color once upon a time, but they all look the
same now.  The inner rubber-like insulation is all black, the outer cloth is
uniformly brown (where it hasn't fallen away entirely).

Randall

From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Aug 26 04:27:21 2009
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 06:27:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com>
References: <522214121.393988.1251240559821.JavaMail.root@vms228.mailsrvcs.net>
	<6A804E81683D4F75B7C071FF547F9445@COHEN1>
	<4A948F6E.2070607@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4A950E09.4080703@snet.net>

Not true, the 76 trunk light requires the headlight switch be on to work 
and it's stated as such in the late manual.     John Mitchell  76 TR6  
72 Stag

Mark J Bradakis wrote:
>> Not to state the obvious, but on my '76, the parking lights need to 
>> be on
>> for the boot light to work.
>>   
> Someone in the past has mucked with your wiring.  The trunk light 
> should come
> on when the trunk is open, regardless of the position of the lighting 
> switch or
> whether or not the ignition is on.  Same as the glovebox light, or horns.
> The power comes from a fused feed directly from 12 volts via a purple
> wire.  Sounds like someone decided to not actually fix your wiring some
> time ago but just fed the trunk light circuit  off a taillight wire.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 26 06:48:38 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 07:48:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
References: <FE5203982DEE41698FA245DBF6EB0256@RossFamily>
	<9ADB9EECCD8A47398046DC0EBA66DACE@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <5139B58FE05C445A93D6002F1AA0D14B@yourpd3mh0abgs>

zowie!  that's what a ford small block weighs!
Best,
Ray


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2009 4:32 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Weight


>> Does anyone know approx. what the weight is for an assembled TR6 engine
>> including crank, pistons/rods, head, cam, rockers, oil pump, oil pan?
>> No manifolds, no gearbox..
>
> I have an old message saved from Dan Masters, which gives 460 lbs 
> including
> manifolds, carbs, clutch, etc. (but no fluids or gearbox).
>
> Yours will be lighter without manifolds & carbs, so should be no problem
> with a 500# winch.  But you might want to double-check that it is rated 
> for
> overhead lifting (some will not hold the weight they are rated to pull) 
> and
> of course be sure you have something solid to attach it to.
>
> -- Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Aug 26 06:54:48 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 08:54:48 EDT
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
Message-ID: <c8a.43e3155b.37c68a98@aol.com>

Excellent point.  Triumph changed the wiring on the TR6's trunk  light 
operation at some point (I'd have to look it up) to only operate when the  
headlight/parking light switch is turned on.  For previous models, the  trunk 
light would operate regardless of headlight switch position (which always  made 
more sense to me!)
 
So, before you get too far along in your diagnosis, try turning the lights  
on first!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
In a message dated 8/25/2009 8:33:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jmcoh at comcast.net writes:
 
Not to  state the obvious, but on my '76, the parking lights need to be on
for the  boot light to work.

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Aug 26 07:10:14 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 6:10:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <c8a.43e3155b.37c68a98@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20090826091014.PZ29E.4193540.root@mp19>

---- Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: 
>  
> So, before you get too far along in your diagnosis, try turning the lights  
> on first!

If it's a purple wire, it should work any time.  If it's a red wire, it should only work when the parking lights are illuminated.

And for the record, if the trunk light switch or wire were to fail so the trunk light was switched on all the time, I'd rather it be on only with the parking lights.  In the daytime, you don't' need a light; and if one of the lights on my car is going to kill the battery, I'd prefer it to be a light in a place I'm likely to see rather than one hidden in the trunk.

Jeff 
Athens

From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Aug 26 07:33:32 2009
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 06:33:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
In-Reply-To: <5139B58FE05C445A93D6002F1AA0D14B@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <FE5203982DEE41698FA245DBF6EB0256@RossFamily>
	<9ADB9EECCD8A47398046DC0EBA66DACE@jdnet.deere.com>
	<5139B58FE05C445A93D6002F1AA0D14B@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <4A9539AC.6090703@gmail.com>

spook01 wrote:
> zowie!  that's what a ford small block weighs!
> Best,
> Ray
>
I think the weight of s Ford small block is very convenient.  The one 
resting inside my 1960 Land Rover with cast iron heads is slightly 
heavier than the LR 2.25L four (optimistically rated at 70 HP).  And 
with aluminum heads, the 302 is slightly lighter.  With a 500 CFM four 
barrel the 302 got identical mileage to the Land Rover four cylinder 
petrol engine but has more HP at idle than the LR four has at peak.  A 
couple years ago I converted it to 1991 Mustang EFI and it now gets 3-4 
MPG better on the highway and more than half again better in town mileage.

At the same weight as the LR engine there were no suspension or centre 
of gravity related issues.

I wouldn't put one in my TR3, but it is a perfect solution for a 5,700 
lb Land Rover  with 33.3 inch dia tyres that I used to say "goes Zero to 
sixty same day.  Assuming no uphill sections or headwinds".

Teriann

The Land Rover and I will be at the Portland All British Field meet this 
year.

From dlylis at gmail.com  Wed Aug 26 07:41:30 2009
From: dlylis at gmail.com (dlylis at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 13:41:30 +0000
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
Message-ID: <mailman.2.1251294172.3237.triumphs@autox.team.net>

My 69 has the trunk light come on whenever the trunk is opened regardless of the light switch. 
------Original Message------
From: fishplate at charter.net
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical
Sent: Aug 26, 2009 2:00 AM

---- Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: 
>  
> So, before you get too far along in your diagnosis, try turning the lights  
> on first!

If it's a purple wire, it should work any time.  If it's a red wire, it should only work when the parking lights are illuminated.

And for the record, if the trunk light switch or wire were to fail so the trunk light was switched on all the time, I'd rather it be on only with the parking lights.  In the daytime, you don't' need a light; and if one of the lights on my car is going to kill the battery, I'd prefer it to be a light in a place I'm likely to see rather than one hidden in the trunk.

Jeff 
Athens
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 26 09:10:37 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 15:10:37 +0000
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
In-Reply-To: <5139B58FE05C445A93D6002F1AA0D14B@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <FE5203982DEE41698FA245DBF6EB0256@RossFamily>
	<9ADB9EECCD8A47398046DC0EBA66DACE@jdnet.deere.com> 
	<5139B58FE05C445A93D6002F1AA0D14B@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W39FB4E3D424627317E1B55E5F70@phx.gbl>

If you convert to a Ford small block you actually lighten the front of the
carr by 50# of engine weight.  Also, the best placement of the Ford engine
mounts gives you a 10 - 20 percent set back of the engine weight transferring
more weight to the rear of the car.  Both of these weight changes are
beneficial to handling since the stock TR is significantly front heavy.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on
Facebook.
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:
WL:en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 26 09:32:39 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 08:32:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
In-Reply-To: <5139B58FE05C445A93D6002F1AA0D14B@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <20090826153239189.QYWI6799@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>

> zowie!  that's what a ford small block weighs!

Oddly enough, that's exactly the point Dan was making:
http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/DanMasters.htm

Randall

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Wed Aug 26 09:36:56 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 11:36:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
Message-ID: <c7d.533ec704.37c6b098@aol.com>

Yes
and a fully assembled TR8 engine (3.5L Rover V8 with AC, air pump, and  
power steering) is actually lighter than a TR6 engine
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/26/2009 8:49:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
spook01 at comcast.net writes:

zowie!  that's what a ford small block  weighs!

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 26 10:27:26 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 12:27:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
In-Reply-To: <c7d.533ec704.37c6b098@aol.com>
References: <c7d.533ec704.37c6b098@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W51C0A1400FFC92A4DE2760BAF70@phx.gbl>

Now, if my TR6 engine was cast from that new fangled aluminum stuff I'D HAVE
SOMETHING



Marty

> From: McGaheyRx at aol.com
> Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 11:36:56 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Engine Weight
>
> Yes
> and a fully assembled TR8 engine (3.5L Rover V8 with AC, air pump, and
> power steering) is actually lighter than a TR6 engine

_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery

From dmericas at austin.rr.com  Wed Aug 26 10:47:08 2009
From: dmericas at austin.rr.com (dmericas at austin.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 16:47:08 +0000
Subject: [TR] Got an empty trailer going through/near Park City,
 UT and  Austin, TX?
Message-ID: <20090826164708.4060D.54539.root@hrndva-web14-z01>

I'm likely to be needing to move a smallish non-LBC from Park City to Austin in the next few weeks, and thought I'd check with the digest community in case anyone happens to have an empty trailer going my way.

Please respond off-list.

Thanks.

Dean Mericas
Austin, TX
1965 TR4
1974 2000 GTV

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Wed Aug 26 11:27:52 2009
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 13:27:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Engine Weight
In-Reply-To: <mailman.471.1251301023.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.471.1251301023.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CBF489AC45974D-1D78-2F913@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com>

That's true...



But when comparing the Buick/TR8/Rover/LR V8 in it's various iterations with the TR motor (either the? 6 cyl. or the 4 cyl., which are pretty close to the same weight), well you're comparing aluminum to cast iron... Literally. 



There are all-aluminum Ford 302/5 liter small blocks available, too. They?seemed a bit pricey, though, last time I looked. 



TerriAnn, I want to look closely at your Ford LR conversion some time, at one of the shows. I've toyed with?the idea for my '97 Disco... Actually I'd like to?drop a?turbo deisel in it and run it on used cooking oil so it?smells like tacos and french fries when I drive?by! Oh, and get better gas mileage out of it, too. I wonder what I can mate up to the ZF transmission, that won't rip the drive shafts, u-points?and axle bits?apart? 



Hmmm.... Then I'd have a left over all-aluminum, fuel injected 4.0 V8 looking for a TR6 to drop into! 



I sure wish Chip Foose's Overhaulin' was still on the air and?filming new shows! 



Back to the original question, though.... 



Why use an electric winch to lift the TR motor? A standard hydraulic engine hoist from just about any place that rents tools will handle the TR motor with the 120 lb. OD gearbox attached. Or, go to Harbor Freight (or similar) and order a $40-$60 half-ton or 1-ton chain hoist to hang (very securely) from the garage ceiling. I've used both without any problems. An engine levelling attachment is helpful when working the engine/gerabox combo into or out of the?snug engine compartments?of most TRs.



I wouldn't use an electric winch with less than 2X the weight rating, just as a practical safety margin. And, as noted previously, be sure that the rating is for a hanging load, not just a pulling load rating. 



Seems to me that a?500# electric winch would be a very small one. Heck, about the smallest 12V recovery winch available for the front bumper of Jeeps, Hummers and?Land Rovers is rated around 5000#, and some are well over 10,000#. There are some smaller ATV winches, but I'm not very familiar with them.



Cheers!





Alan Myers

amfoto1 at aol.com

San Jose, California
'62 TR4 CT17602L


------------------------------

Yes and a fully assembled TR8 engine (3.5L Rover V8 with AC, air pump, and  
power steering) is actually lighter than a TR6 engine
 
 
------------------------------ 
 
In a message dated 8/26/2009 8:49:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
spook01 at comcast.net writes:

zowie!  that's what a ford small block  weighs!


------------------------------

From tfansher at comcast.net  Wed Aug 26 12:05:10 2009
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 14:05:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 (alternator conversion) modified fan belt size
References: <355249.41169.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F418EF9D9F114780843B22F58CB874DD@DCS78M81>

Bill, try NAPA 24379, I got that from the kit on
http://www.triumphrescue.com/id3.html
Triumph Rescue.
Hope this helps
Tom

Subject: [TR] TR3 (alternator conversion) modified fan belt size


>     About 7 or 8 years ago I bought an alternator conversion kit for my 
> TR3A.
> I got it from somewhere back east. It might have been BAR (British Auto
> Restorations), but I am not sure. It came with a Gates cogged belt that 
> was
> like a 12354 size or something like that. I kept the belt tag stored so I
> could remember the size, but now I have misplaced that and the belt number 
> has
> worn off of the belt and the belt looks like hell. Did anyone else buy 
> this
> kit and keep the belt number written down somewhere? Can you email it to 
> me
> please if you do.     I may just have to wimp out and go to the FLAPS with 
> the
> removed belt and get it sized, but would rather just order the belt and 
> change
> it on the fly.     TIA,
>     Bill in Tehachapi

From team.net at daveola.com  Wed Aug 26 12:04:09 2009
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 11:04:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 (alternator conversion) modified fan belt size
In-Reply-To: <355249.41169.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <355249.41169.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E1MgMtt-0006Vo-4A@dave.getdave.com>

> About 7 or 8 years ago I bought an alternator conversion kit for my TR3A.
> I got it from somewhere back east. It might have been BAR (British Auto
> Restorations), but I am not sure. It came with a Gates cogged belt that was
> like a 12354 size or something like that. I kept the belt tag stored so I

Sounds like the Power British conversion - it uses the Delco 10SI alternator
which is fairly common.  I use it in my conversion:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Alternator-Conversion/

If that looks like the kit, then it's a:

  Gates TR24379 Replaces (308) Green Stripe II

I love the conversion, but I find that the belt keeps slipping no
matter how tight I make it - eventually it stretches enough and
my battery ends up dead.  I think I might be putting too much of a
load on it for that belt (big stereo amplifier added to system :)

Always been an aggravation - I suppose I should find some of that
belt non-stick spray.

Dave
1957 Triumph TR3A #TS22126L
http://triumph.Daveola.com/

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Aug 26 12:23:03 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 11:23:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 (alternator conversion) modified fan belt size
In-Reply-To: <E1MgMtt-0006Vo-4A@dave.getdave.com>
References: <355249.41169.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<E1MgMtt-0006Vo-4A@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <F55384DFFF5D4DF9853E5612167CD3AE@jdnet.deere.com>

> Always been an aggravation - I suppose I should find some of that
> belt non-stick spray.

BTDT - It's a temporary solution at best.  If you are really overloading the
belt, then a larger diameter pulley on the alternator may be the only
solution.

However, I would look first at things like pulley alignment, belt vibration
at certain speeds, and whether the belt actually matches all the pulleys
involved.  If the bottom of the groove is shiny, the belt is too small for
the pulley.

-- Randall 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Aug 26 14:13:12 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 16:13:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>

Guys,
If you haven't downloaded the FREE AAW wire schematics....do so. These were
put together by Dan Masters with a lot of input from some very knowledgeable
List members. They are more accurate than the factory schematics. You can
get them here for a TR2-TR4A http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf and
here for a TR250 and TR6 http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

After you download and save them, look at the TR6 schematic and you'll see
that the trunk light was on an always hot purple wire until 1974 at which
point it was moved to red wire working off of the headlight switch. So for
1973 and earlier, the light came on when the trunk was opened. From 1974 -
76, you had to have the headlight switch on for the light to work. It makes
no sense to me but that's how it was done.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dlylis at gmail.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 9:42 AM
To: fishplate at charter.net; triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net;
triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical

My 69 has the trunk light come on whenever the trunk is opened regardless of
the light switch. 
------Original Message------
From: fishplate at charter.net
Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical
Sent: Aug 26, 2009 2:00 AM

---- Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: 
>  
> So, before you get too far along in your diagnosis, try turning the 
> lights on first!

If it's a purple wire, it should work any time.  If it's a red wire, it
should only work when the parking lights are illuminated.

And for the record, if the trunk light switch or wire were to fail so the
trunk light was switched on all the time, I'd rather it be on only with the
parking lights.  In the daytime, you don't' need a light; and if one of the
lights on my car is going to kill the battery, I'd prefer it to be a light
in a place I'm likely to see rather than one hidden in the trunk.

Jeff
Athens
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive


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This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From earlbowman at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 26 14:47:45 2009
From: earlbowman at yahoo.com (Earl Bowman)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 13:47:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Manifold Coatings
Message-ID: <620750.39212.qm@web54406.mail.yahoo.com>

Anyone out there had an opportunity to use this DIY ceramic coating on an
exhaust manifold?
http://www.eastwood.com/underhood-engine/exhaust-paints/tlc-cast-iron-ceramic
-coating-4oz.html If so, were you happy with the results?
 
Exhausted Earl

From rx74evr at mchsi.com  Wed Aug 26 16:05:36 2009
From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 17:05:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Free 1975 Triumph TR6 engine 35,000 miles.
Message-ID: <9CA5536D765A4D80A0B4BB804B4D8204@BUTTERB3MSFN9P>

Hey guys,

Due to a change in plans here, i have a free TR6 engine pulled from a 75 with
35,000 actual miles on it. It is completely disassembled and is just the long
block, no carbs, dizzy, manifolds ( well exhaust is with it )...Located in
Winnebago,IL abouit 100 miles west of Chicago.

Email me if interested off the list

Thanks

Paul Seedoff
rx74evr at mchsi.com

From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Aug 26 17:21:47 2009
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 19:21:47 -0400
Subject: [TR] Manifold Coatings
In-Reply-To: <620750.39212.qm@web54406.mail.yahoo.com>
References: <620750.39212.qm@web54406.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A95C38B.1020104@snet.net>

   I used their silver high temp powder coat and it's still perfect 
several years later.   John Mitchell

Earl Bowman wrote:
> Anyone out there had an opportunity to use this DIY ceramic coating on an
> exhaust manifold?
> http://www.eastwood.com/underhood-engine/exhaust-paints/tlc-cast-iron-ceramic
> -coating-4oz.html If so, were you happy with the results?
>  
> Exhausted Earl

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Aug 26 17:29:48 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:29:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Carpet install instructions TR4
In-Reply-To: <000001ca25f6$47778c40$d666a4c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <2033515895.4142251251329388381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I know we talked about this recently but now I'm in a hurry. Where do I scare up the instructions. I have TRF carpet set and a TRF hardware kit. 

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Wed Aug 26 17:44:29 2009
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 19:44:29 EDT
Subject: [TR] Cool TR8
Message-ID: <c40.64b951e1.37c722dd@aol.com>

Listers,
 
I just received my copy of Hemming's Sports & Exotic Cars in the mail  
today. There's a nice article about fellow lister Jack McGahey's lovely lime  
green TR8. The article mentions that the car was in the British Leyland press  
fleet and I dug up an old copy of Car and Driver that has the car on the 
cover.  The car looks as good as new and probably runs better! I've also got 
some great  pictures of Jack flinging the car over the hills of West Virginia 
and  Kentucky  on the 2006 British Reliability Run. Congratulations Jack.
 
There's also a bit on a Spitfire, as well as former Triumph insider Mike  
Cook's monthly column.
 
Eric L.
71 TR6

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Wed Aug 26 20:20:24 2009
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 22:20:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] New Starter
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPEEDIFIAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Wow,
With all this talk about how hard it is to install a starter, I think I
better do it now as the tub is off!
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A IRS
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org  Wed Aug 26 20:36:04 2009
From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 20:36:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] Caravaning from East to SLO - Triumphest - NATC 2009
Message-ID: <4A95F114.5010807@triumphstagclub.org>

Hello Travelers to Triumphest / NATC 2009:

ONLY 36 DAYS to TRIUMPHEST / North American Triumph Challenge 2009 in 
San Luis Obispo California!!

I am completing my plans for caravaning to Triumphest / NATC 2009 from 
Colorado.  In the past we have traveled solo in the Stag and had some 
pretty spectacular drives I reported on over the years.  This one should 
not be any different.

At present I am planning on a two day drive from Lafayette Colorado to 
San Luis Obispo California, and the moss don't grow under the wheels of 
this Stag!  Get there, unpack and get with the program.

Basic route is approximately 1200 miles;  out of Denver west on I-70 
through the Colorado Rockies to I-15 in Utah, south through Las Vegas 
then west to Barstow California, spice it up a bit and take CA HWY 58 
west to CA HWY 223, CA HWY 166  (maybe a photo op at ButtonWillow track) 
across the mountains to Santa Maria, then north on 101 to Pismo Beach.

I want to depart Colorado on either the 27th or 28th of September at the 
latest to arrive in Pismo the 29th.

There is a large caravan of Triumphs planning to travel with the TTA 
STTAG  and John Macartney from Monterey CA the morning of the 30th down 
1A and I'd like to meet up with them about San Simeon on 1A late morning 
on the 30th to make the grand finale arrival drive into SLO.

Comments and ideas?

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TSN Admin
http://www.triumphstag.net
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From earlbowman at yahoo.com  Wed Aug 26 23:47:45 2009
From: earlbowman at yahoo.com (Earl Bowman)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2009 22:47:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Manifold Coatings
Message-ID: <468508.40262.qm@web54405.mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks to Kent and John for their input. I think I'll give the stuff a try.
Not sure the wife will let me use her new Kenmore oven though. Guess I'll let
the engine heat bake it on.
 
Earl Bowman
1962 TR4

--- On Wed, 8/26/09, John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:


From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Manifold Coatings
To: "Earl Bowman" <earlbowman at yahoo.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, August 26, 2009, 4:21 PM


  I used their silver high temp powder coat and it's still perfect several
years later.   John Mitchell

Earl Bowman wrote:
> Anyone out there had an opportunity to use this DIY ceramic coating on an
> exhaust manifold?
>
http://www.eastwood.com/underhood-engine/exhaust-paints/tlc-cast-iron-ceramic
> -coating-4oz.html If so, were you happy with the results?
>  Exhausted Earl
>
>   

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Aug 27 05:50:30 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:50:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
In-Reply-To: <468508.40262.qm@web54405.mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Never had a garage before.B  Now the structure is up, steel roof on,
electricityB in.B  This weekend I finish putting the siding on.B  The
insulation people will coming next week to spray the foam.B  The chimney is up
and maybe something this winter I can afford a wood stove and garage doors!



So, Now that I'm getting close, am beginning to think about organization.B  My
tools are everywhere.B  Some in a small box I carry in the TR3A.B  Some in a
bigger yard sale plastic tool box.B  Some in the cellar because I rarely use
them.B 



Will be putting up some pegboard.B  Saves space,B but I don't like having to
walk to get tools when I'm scrunched into a project.B 



So...does anybody have experience with a rolling tool chest they like and a
reasonably priced source for it?B 



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Aug 27 06:50:10 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 08:50:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
In-Reply-To: <434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <468508.40262.qm@web54405.mail.yahoo.com>
	<434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BF7614AF86BB45D387A186A5E0917901@BOBSNEWPC>

Terry,
The November issue of Classic Motorsports has as the cover story "Build Your
Perfect Shop" http://classicmotorsports.net/ It looks like it covers
everything from the ultimate dream garage to the bargain garage. Might be
some ideas for you.

Are you going to Stowe for the Invasion?


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 7:51 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage

Never had a garage before.B  Now the structure is up, steel roof on,
electricityB in.B  This weekend I finish putting the siding on.B  The
insulation people will coming next week to spray the foam.B  The chimney is
up and maybe something this winter I can afford a wood stove and garage
doors!



So, Now that I'm getting close, am beginning to think about organization.B
My tools are everywhere.B  Some in a small box I carry in the TR3A.B  Some
in a bigger yard sale plastic tool box.B  Some in the cellar because I
rarely use them.B 



Will be putting up some pegboard.B  Saves space,B but I don't like having to
walk to get tools when I'm scrunched into a project.B 



So...does anybody have experience with a rolling tool chest they like and a
reasonably priced source for it?B 



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 27 06:52:09 2009
From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net (fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 12:52:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
In-Reply-To: <434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1254338744.4586011251377529131.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Terry,



Sears has a nice rolling cart they call their "Craftsman 2-Drawer Deluxe
Mechanic's Cart" (Item #59355).B  It's $199 through Saturday if you are a
member of their Craftsman Club, but it is often on sale.B  It is not the
cheapest thing out there, but it has lots of storage, it locks and it has a
sturdy work surface.B  Had mine for awhile and I've been very pleased.B  I'm
sure Northern and Harbor Freight have similar things for less, but I really
like the quality of this one.



Tom FitzGibbon

Fanwood, NJ

'67 Spitfire Mk II


----- Original Message -----
From: terryrs at comcast.net
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 7:50:30 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage

Never had a garage before.B B Now the structure is up, steel roof on,
electricityB in.B B This weekend I finish putting the siding on.B B The
insulation people will coming next week to spray the foam.B B The chimney is
up
and maybe something this winter I can afford a wood stove and garage doors!



So, Now that I'm getting close, am beginning to think about organization.B
B My
tools are everywhere.B B Some in a small box I carry in the TR3A.B B Some in a
bigger yard sale plastic tool box.B B Some in the cellar because I rarely use
them.B



Will be putting up some pegboard.B B Saves space,B but I don't like having to
walk to get tools when I'm scrunched into a project.B



So...does anybody have experience with a rolling tool chest they like and a
reasonably priced source for it?B



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hampshire
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Aug 27 07:04:42 2009
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 09:04:42 EDT
Subject: [TR] Cool TR8
Message-ID: <cb8.53e79b9a.37c7de6a@aol.com>

Thanks Eric
 
The article was a long time coming - the pictures (which I haven't  seen) 
were taken in the spring of 2008 when Jim Donnelly was in Charlotte for  the 
Spring Autofair - it was over a year before he called back to write the  
article - then he said it would be in the Sept issue - apparently it got  
bumped to the October issue - i haven't received mine yet, so i still haven't  
seen it.   
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 8/26/2009 7:44:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
ElangTR4 at aol.com writes:

Listers,

I just received my copy of Hemming's Sports &  Exotic Cars in the mail  
today. There's a nice article about fellow  lister Jack McGahey's lovely 
lime  
green TR8. The article mentions  that the car was in the British Leyland 
press  
fleet and I dug up an  old copy of Car and Driver that has the car on the 
cover.  The car  looks as good as new and probably runs better! I've also 
got 
some  great  pictures of Jack flinging the car over the hills of West 
Virginia  
and  Kentucky  on the 2006 British Reliability Run.  Congratulations Jack.

There's also a bit on a Spitfire, as well as  former Triumph insider Mike  
Cook's monthly column.

Eric  L.
71 TR6
This list supported in  part by the Vintage Triumph  Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From twr at frii.com  Thu Aug 27 07:27:13 2009
From: twr at frii.com (Todd Richmond)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 07:27:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] LBC?
Message-ID: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>

I'm sure many of you are aware of the Tesla Roadster by Teslamotors, but
I haven't seen it discussed in the archives.  What you may NOT know is
that the car is actually assembled at the Lotus plant in Hethel,
England, and shares 6% of its parts with the Lotus Elite.  So, does that
qualify it as an LBC?

What's amazing about this car is that it is a 100% electric vehicle,
goes 244 miles on a single charge, and get this, can accelerate from
0-60mph in 3.7 seconds!  Nice.

www.teslamotors.com
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_Roadster

NFI, other than the next time I have $100,000 lying around I don't need,
I might buy one!  ;)

Todd Richmond
Fort Collins, Colorado
1959 TR3A TS54425L

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Thu Aug 27 07:34:45 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 09:34:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
References: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
Message-ID: <4A968B75.6050707@earthlink.net>

Actually, the charge doesn't last that long.  Check out Top Gear's test 
of the Tesla.  I don't think it hit 60 that fast either. 

As for being a LBC.  NOPE.  I think my BMW has more British Parts than 
the Tesla!

Joe

Todd Richmond wrote:
> I'm sure many of you are aware of the Tesla Roadster by Teslamotors, but
> I haven't seen it discussed in the archives.  What you may NOT know is
> that the car is actually assembled at the Lotus plant in Hethel,
> England, and shares 6% of its parts with the Lotus Elite.  So, does that
> qualify it as an LBC?
>
> What's amazing about this car is that it is a 100% electric vehicle,
> goes 244 miles on a single charge, and get this, can accelerate from
> 0-60mph in 3.7 seconds!  Nice.
>
> www.teslamotors.com
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_Roadster
>
> NFI, other than the next time I have $100,000 lying around I don't need,
> I might buy one!  ;)
>
> Todd Richmond
> Fort Collins, Colorado
> 1959 TR3A TS54425L
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Aug 27 07:49:52 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 09:49:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net>
	<D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>


...So for 1973 and earlier, the light came on when the trunk was opened. From 1974 -
76, you had to have the headlight switch on for the light to work. It makes
no sense to me but that's how it was done.

==AM==
I suppose one might make the argument that is seems somewhat pointless to have a trunk light in daylight,
i.e., when you wouldn't need lights anywhere. But given the BLMC corporate bean-counter policies of the
time, perhaps some accountant determined that several pence per vehicle might be saved by NOT running that extra
dedicated purple wire all the way back to the boot? ;-)

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Aug 27 08:05:29 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 08:05:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
References: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
Message-ID: <1F948064E47D4750AA53F137D7293110@bboffice>

Nice thought, I had just learned that last week as the Tesla folks had a car
at The Tech Museum in San Jose for a photo shoot with the curator there.
The Tesla rep told me the coachworks are all done in England, carbon fibre
of course, then all the mechanicals at added and the car is finished out in
Menlo Park.  Really neat car, sorry to say the best pictures I got were with
my cell-phone.

I don't know the requirements to be considered an "LBC" but if you include
the Tesla, you need to reach back and include the ......Honda Ballade
(Civic), and built in England as Rover 213/216 in 1984.

If there was to be a vote, put me down as a No for the Tesla being an LBC...
All Yankee ingenuity here.



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd Richmond
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 7:27 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LBC?

I'm sure many of you are aware of the Tesla Roadster by Teslamotors, but I
haven't seen it discussed in the archives.  What you may NOT know is that
the car is actually assembled at the Lotus plant in Hethel, England, and
shares 6% of its parts with the Lotus Elite.  So, does that qualify it as an
LBC?

What's amazing about this car is that it is a 100% electric vehicle, goes
244 miles on a single charge, and get this, can accelerate from 0-60mph in
3.7 seconds!  Nice.

www.teslamotors.com
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_Roadster

NFI, other than the next time I have $100,000 lying around I don't need, I
might buy one!  ;)

Todd Richmond
Fort Collins, Colorado
1959 TR3A TS54425L
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Aug 27 08:13:04 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 14:13:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <1F948064E47D4750AA53F137D7293110@bboffice>
Message-ID: <615447610.4334471251382384032.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

> I'm sure many of you are aware of the Tesla Roadster by Teslamotors,
> but I
> haven't seen it discussed in the archives.  What you may NOT know is
> that
> the car is actually assembled at the Lotus plant in Hethel, England,
> and
> 6% of its parts with the Lotus Elite.

Elise.

"In this car, we could be in Mexico in three hours" - Click and Clack

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug 27 08:41:40 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 09:41:40 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
Message-ID: <566853123.527963.1251384100061.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net>

/G2xdDy: Permission denied

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 27 08:49:15 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 14:49:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] Engine removal.
In-Reply-To: <8CBF489AC45974D-1D78-2F913@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com>
References: <mailman.471.1251301023.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<8CBF489AC45974D-1D78-2F913@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W34C4C5A33D66F94B4F677DE5F60@phx.gbl>

When I pulled the engine out of my TR3A I removed the trans first and then
lifted the engine with four guys on a 4x4 post through the lift chain.  Worked
very well.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online.
http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON:
WL:en-US:SI_SB_online:082009

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 27 09:20:32 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:20:32 +0000
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
In-Reply-To: <434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <468508.40262.qm@web54405.mail.yahoo.com>
	<434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W461F541991BA1A6D3D1A9DE5F60@phx.gbl>

I store my tools in a tool box on my work bench.  When I have task on the car
I put all the tools I will need on an old metal rolling stand from an
accounting office.  I roll the stand to my work position and proceed.  When
finished the tools are cleaned and returned to the tool box.  Thus I know
where they are the next time I need them.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Aug 27 09:23:31 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 10:23:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
References: <434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <10B99BEF19014E43A29D40387F723D22@ranteer.local>

i went to a pawn shop to get my tool boxes.  at first i just had a craftsman 
chest with a bunch of drawers; it sat on various counters etc over the 
years.  it was way too heavy for me to move.  then i went out (to a pawn 
shop again) and got a roller base.  i really like the roller bottom and the 
multi drawer top.  i ran out of space so i got a craftsman "middle section" 
not sure what they call it.  it's three more drawers and fits between the 
roller base and the tool chest on top.

the one thing i can definitely recommend is that you buy way more tool chest 
than you think you will need, and be sure it is all on rollers.  still wish 
i'd bought bigger <grin>

i think loews may have a set decently priced.

with a pawn shop you may get some extra tools!  i've bought chain saws, 
electric hand saws, etc at various places.  mostly been good.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 6:50 AM
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage


> Never had a garage before.B  Now the structure is up, steel roof on,
> electricityB in.B  This weekend I finish putting the siding on.B  The
> insulation people will coming next week to spray the foam.B  The chimney 
> is up
> and maybe something this winter I can afford a wood stove and garage 
> doors!
>
>
>
> So, Now that I'm getting close, am beginning to think about organization.B 
> My
> tools are everywhere.B  Some in a small box I carry in the TR3A.B  Some in 
> a
> bigger yard sale plastic tool box.B  Some in the cellar because I rarely 
> use
> them.B
>
>
>
> Will be putting up some pegboard.B  Saves space,B but I don't like having 
> to
> walk to get tools when I'm scrunched into a project.B
>
>
>
> So...does anybody have experience with a rolling tool chest they like and 
> a
> reasonably priced source for it?B

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 27 09:25:24 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:25:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
References: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W31A15B721CF8210523B202E5F60@phx.gbl>

The TV segment I saw on the Tesla roadster said it uses laptop batteries.  I
wrote to Tesla and asked how much it costs to replace the battery pack at the
recommended service interval.  No response.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Get back to school stuff for them and cashback for you.
http://www.bing.com/cashback?form=MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_BackTo
School_Cashback_BTSCashback_1x1

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug 27 09:45:26 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 10:45:26 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
Message-ID: <990750621.624578.1251387926102.JavaMail.root@vms183.mailsrvcs.net>

/6W7H5Z: Permission denied

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Aug 27 10:25:34 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 09:25:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W31A15B721CF8210523B202E5F60@phx.gbl>
References: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
	<BAY110-W31A15B721CF8210523B202E5F60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F743BF2AB66446F18A7A28789F997490@jdnet.deere.com>

> I wrote to Tesla and asked how much it costs to replace the battery pack 
> at the recommended service interval.  No response.

I believe that as yet, replacement battery packs are not available.  Reading
between the lines, they are hand-assembling these things at the moment; the
production line is having some problems.  But they should be in mass
production soon, and likely will announce a price then.

In the meantime, I think you can safely assume that today's Tesla will never
pay back its purchase price, even if they gave you free replacement
batteries.  $100,000 will buy a LOT of gasoline, even at $4/gallon.

-- Randall 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Aug 27 10:46:21 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 12:46:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <1F948064E47D4750AA53F137D7293110@bboffice>
References: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
	<1F948064E47D4750AA53F137D7293110@bboffice>
Message-ID: <4B01B60230BE45EAA2D503F809A6DA56@BOBSNEWPC>

At the bottom of this page
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BritsbytheSea2009_4.htm is a Honda CR-V who
was allowed on the field for Brits by the Sea after he showed that the car
was made in Swindon, England and has more British parts then the new Mini! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech at flash.net
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 10:05 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LBC?

Nice thought, I had just learned that last week as the Tesla folks had a car
at The Tech Museum in San Jose for a photo shoot with the curator there.
The Tesla rep told me the coachworks are all done in England, carbon fibre
of course, then all the mechanicals at added and the car is finished out in
Menlo Park.  Really neat car, sorry to say the best pictures I got were with
my cell-phone.

I don't know the requirements to be considered an "LBC" but if you include
the Tesla, you need to reach back and include the ......Honda Ballade
(Civic), and built in England as Rover 213/216 in 1984.

If there was to be a vote, put me down as a No for the Tesla being an LBC...
All Yankee ingenuity here.



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd Richmond
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 7:27 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] LBC?

I'm sure many of you are aware of the Tesla Roadster by Teslamotors, but I
haven't seen it discussed in the archives.  What you may NOT know is that
the car is actually assembled at the Lotus plant in Hethel, England, and
shares 6% of its parts with the Lotus Elite.  So, does that qualify it as an
LBC?

What's amazing about this car is that it is a 100% electric vehicle, goes
244 miles on a single charge, and get this, can accelerate from 0-60mph in
3.7 seconds!  Nice.

www.teslamotors.com
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tesla_Roadster

NFI, other than the next time I have $100,000 lying around I don't need, I
might buy one!  ;)

Todd Richmond
Fort Collins, Colorado
1959 TR3A TS54425L
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Aug 27 10:55:34 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 12:55:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
References: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
Message-ID: <20090827125534.CPB95211@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Todd Richmond wrote:
> I'm sure many of you are aware of the Tesla Roadster...

While sitting in a doctor's office a month or so ago I read a review of said car in one of the principle car mags.  Don't remember for sure but it may have been C&D.  As I recall, they liked its performance (who wouldn't!) but weren't so keen on its driving position.  More importantly though, it's battery performance was questionable.  In its present form it supposedly got only about 200 miles per charge, a charging cycle might take all night, and it required a special charging terminal with its own electrical service.  They towed it to the track for testing rather than drove it.

Fortuantely I can't afford that kind of price anyway so it doesn't bother me at all.
--
Jim Muller

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Thu Aug 27 12:33:37 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:33:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] LBC?
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908271133370.32471@hymn32.u.washington.edu>

Actually, Top Gear faked the shut-down of the Tesla for dramatic effect.

   If you google "top gear tesla" you'll see tons of articles discussing it.
   BBC came under a lot of fire for the stunt and defended themselves saying the segment was intended to show what would happen "IF" it ran out of juice.

   The Top Gear people probably thought the show would be more entertaining that way, and they may be right... a lot of people who don't like electric vehicles were undoubtedly pleased as punch.

   Jeremy never fails to entertain.  The episode with the ridiculous competition between a Rover SD1, Austin Princess, and Triumph Dolomite Sprint is my favorite.  Or maybe the one where they try to launch a Robin Reliant into space...

-Nick
'62-ish TR4
Seattle


>From: Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
>Subject: Re: [TR] LBC?
>To: Todd Richmond <twr at frii.com>
>
>Actually, the charge doesn't last that long.  Check out Top Gear's test
>of the Tesla.  I don't think it hit 60 that fast either.
>
>As for being a LBC.  NOPE.  I think my BMW has more British Parts than
>the Tesla!
>
>Joe

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Thu Aug 27 12:36:01 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:36:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Roll Bar Finishing
Message-ID: <145314.7459.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     I am prepping my roll bar to install in the TR6. Most roll bars I have
seen are satin black. I have also seen them chromed. I have kicked around the
idea of painting it body color (Mallard Blue), interior color (new tan),
bright yellow (why not) or black and then wrapping it in bicycle bar tape or
cloth tape for the boy racer look. I have also seen some vinyl wrapped or foam
wrapped. What have others done that look cool?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 27 13:14:15 2009
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:14:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] Cool TR8
In-Reply-To: <cb8.53e79b9a.37c7de6a@aol.com>
References: <cb8.53e79b9a.37c7de6a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <SNT120-DS8A5F043F23D1DDBDD78FBD6F60@phx.gbl>

Just got my issue and read the article first thing. A very impressive spread 
and car, I must say. Congratulations on a great stable of autos, Jack. This 
is the kind of press our TR's need (and deserve).

Glenn
67 TR4A
CTC76828LO 

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu Aug 27 13:20:33 2009
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:20:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net><D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
	<8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>

 I have a 71 so I dont have to worry about this situation, but the biggest problem I see about having the light only come on when the switch is on for lights is getting into the trunk at night AFTER you have turned off the car.? I am not in the habit of coming home from the grocery store after dark, leave the engine running, unload the groceries then return to shut off the car?? Or it would be pretty hard to turn off the headlight switch after you had removed everything from the trunk and your hands were full of whatever was in the trunk.? So, what do those people who have 74 and on up cars do in that type of a situation?


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 9:49 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical










-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>


...So for 1973 and earlier, the light came on when the trunk was opened. From 
1974 -
76, you had to have the headlight switch on for the light to work. It makes
no sense to me but that's how it was done.

==AM==
I suppose one might make the argument that is seems somewhat pointless to have a 
trunk light in daylight,
i.e., when you wouldn't need lights anywhere. But given the BLMC corporate 
bean-counter policies of the
time, perhaps some accountant determined that several pence per vehicle might be 
saved by NOT running that extra
dedicated purple wire all the way back to the boot? ;-)

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald 
engine with wings.

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 27 13:31:33 2009
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:31:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W461F541991BA1A6D3D1A9DE5F60@phx.gbl>
References: <468508.40262.qm@web54405.mail.yahoo.com><434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY110-W461F541991BA1A6D3D1A9DE5F60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT120-DS17B9B6F1D00C8B4D419843D6F60@phx.gbl>

>  When I have task on the car
> I put all the tools I will need on an old metal rolling stand from an
> accounting office.  I roll the stand to my work position and proceed.....

.....back to the work bench to get the tools I forgot. Repeat as needed. 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Aug 27 15:18:34 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:18:34 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net><D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC><8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <9D20BCBEF1D746749F85C02B9D0F780D@BOBSNEWPC>

My AAW harness design reverted to the "old school" way of thinking and the
light comes on when the trunk opens regardless of car year.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 3:21 PM
To: zoboherald at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical

 I have a 71 so I dont have to worry about this situation, but the biggest
problem I see about having the light only come on when the switch is on for
lights is getting into the trunk at night AFTER you have turned off the
car.? I am not in the habit of coming home from the grocery store after
dark, leave the engine running, unload the groceries then return to shut off
the car?? Or it would be pretty hard to turn off the headlight switch after
you had removed everything from the trunk and your hands were full of
whatever was in the trunk.? So, what do those people who have 74 and on up
cars do in that type of a situation?


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 9:49 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical










-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>


...So for 1973 and earlier, the light came on when the trunk was opened.
From
1974 -
76, you had to have the headlight switch on for the light to work. It makes
no sense to me but that's how it was done.

==AM==
I suppose one might make the argument that is seems somewhat pointless to
have a trunk light in daylight, i.e., when you wouldn't need lights
anywhere. But given the BLMC corporate bean-counter policies of the time,
perhaps some accountant determined that several pence per vehicle might be
saved by NOT running that extra dedicated purple wire all the way back to
the boot? ;-)

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph
Herald engine with wings.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From trglory at verizon.net  Thu Aug 27 15:53:53 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:53:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net><D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
	<8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <020501ca2760$ded4eb80$9c7ec280$@net>

Nothin' to it..............

1. Pull into the garage.
2. Turn off the car.
3. Shut off the lights.
4. Get out of the car & walk to the back.
5. Open the trunk.
6. Recall that the lights need to be on and mutter a four letter word.
7. Walk back to the front and turn on the lights.
8. Walk back to the trunk and remove the groceries.
9. Place grocery bags on the floor.
10. Close the trunk.
11. Walk to the front and shut off the lights.
12. Walk to the back and pick up the grocery bags.
13. Exit the garage and place the grocery bags on the ground.
14. Close the garage door.
15. Pick up the grocery bags and walk to the front door.
16. Put the grocery bags on the ground.
17. Open the front door.
18. Pick up the grocery bags and go in the house.
19. Put the grocery bags on the floor.
20. Close the door.
21. Pick up the grocery bags and head for the kitchen.
22. Pour three fingers of Rebel Yell to ease the back pain while you put the
groceries away.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 3:21 PM
To: zoboherald at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical

 I have a 71 so I dont have to worry about this situation, but the biggest
problem I see about having the light only come on when the switch is on for
lights is getting into the trunk at night AFTER you have turned off the
car.? I am not in the habit of coming home from the grocery store after
dark, leave the engine running, unload the groceries then return to shut off
the car?? Or it would be pretty hard to turn off the headlight switch after
you had removed everything from the trunk and your hands were full of
whatever was in the trunk.? So, what do those people who have 74 and on up
cars do in that type of a situation?

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Aug 27 15:58:13 2009
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:58:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Need help with '79 Triumph Spitfire starting problem
Message-ID: <002401ca2761$797d0d70$6c772850$@rr.com>

Hi, Triumph fans -
 
I've been helping my neighbor get his '79 Spitfire in shape after he bought
it sight unseen from eBay.  It starts easily now, idles and drives well.
The only problem I haven't been able to solve is that once the engine is
warmed up to operating temperature and then shut down for about 15 minutes,
it will crank but not start.  If started within 5 or 10 minutes of shutdown
it does fine.
 
I've had the Stromberg carb off twice and made sure the water choke is
operating and is adjusted properly according to the Haynes manual.  If the
bonnet is left open, the starting problem doesn't happen. This sounds like a
vapor lock problem, but stuffing extra insulation between the carb float
bowl and the heat shield and insulating the fuel line behind the engine
doesn't fix it.  If the bonnet is left down, the car won't start after 15
minutes.
 
Anyone run into this before and have some clues?
 
Another question:  this car has two charcoal absorption canisters next to
each other on the passenger's side of the engine bay next to the radiator.
The front one is connected to the rear one at the bottom with a large rubber
hose, but none of the three tubes on top of the front canister have any
hoses connected to them.  Is this correct?  The Haynes manual shows only one
canister, and it's shown next to what appears to be the coolant recovery
bottle.  On this car, the recovery bottle is by itself on the driver's side
of the radiator.
 
Thanks in advance!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC  USA

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Thu Aug 27 16:12:44 2009
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 18:12:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908271133370.32471@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908271133370.32471@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <4A9704DC.6000802@earthlink.net>

I don't remember the shut down (doesn't shock me though) but I do 
remember it still doesn't nearly the range claimed. 

Love the Shuttle ep.  That and lawn darts with the cars.

Joe.

nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:
> Actually, Top Gear faked the shut-down of the Tesla for dramatic effect.
>
>   If you google "top gear tesla" you'll see tons of articles 
> discussing it.
>   BBC came under a lot of fire for the stunt and defended themselves 
> saying the segment was intended to show what would happen "IF" it ran 
> out of juice.
>
>   The Top Gear people probably thought the show would be more 
> entertaining that way, and they may be right... a lot of people who 
> don't like electric vehicles were undoubtedly pleased as punch.
>
>   Jeremy never fails to entertain.  The episode with the ridiculous 
> competition between a Rover SD1, Austin Princess, and Triumph Dolomite 
> Sprint is my favorite.  Or maybe the one where they try to launch a 
> Robin Reliant into space...
>
> -Nick
> '62-ish TR4
> Seattle
>
>
>> From: Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
>> Subject: Re: [TR] LBC?
>> To: Todd Richmond <twr at frii.com>
>>
>> Actually, the charge doesn't last that long.  Check out Top Gear's test
>> of the Tesla.  I don't think it hit 60 that fast either.
>>
>> As for being a LBC.  NOPE.  I think my BMW has more British Parts than
>> the Tesla!
>>
>> Joe

From emanteno at gmail.com  Thu Aug 27 16:13:08 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:13:08 -0500
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <020501ca2760$ded4eb80$9c7ec280$@net>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net>
	<D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
	<8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
	<020501ca2760$ded4eb80$9c7ec280$@net>
Message-ID: <354a1780908271513y68ca7c44t98f62f591e963c81@mail.gmail.com>

You could save alot of those steps, including the light portion, if you had
an electric garage door opener.

;-)

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (no electric door opener, no gorceries in the trunk either)
Highland Park, IL

On Thu, Aug 27, 2009 at 4:53 PM, Joe Laurito <trglory at verizon.net> wrote:

> Nothin' to it..............
>
> 1. Pull into the garage.
> 2. Turn off the car.
> 3. Shut off the lights.
> 4. Get out of the car & walk to the back.
> 5. Open the trunk.
> 6. Recall that the lights need to be on and mutter a four letter word.
> 7. Walk back to the front and turn on the lights.
> 8. Walk back to the trunk and remove the groceries.
> 9. Place grocery bags on the floor.
> 10. Close the trunk.
> 11. Walk to the front and shut off the lights.
> 12. Walk to the back and pick up the grocery bags.
> 13. Exit the garage and place the grocery bags on the ground.
> 14. Close the garage door.
> 15. Pick up the grocery bags and walk to the front door.
> 16. Put the grocery bags on the ground.
> 17. Open the front door.
> 18. Pick up the grocery bags and go in the house.
> 19. Put the grocery bags on the floor.
> 20. Close the door.
> 21. Pick up the grocery bags and head for the kitchen.
> 22. Pour three fingers of Rebel Yell to ease the back pain while you put
> the
> groceries away.
>
> Joe

From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com  Thu Aug 27 16:38:10 2009
From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 15:38:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Carpet install instructions TR4
In-Reply-To: <2033515895.4142251251329388381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <000001ca25f6$47778c40$d666a4c0$@rr.com>
	<2033515895.4142251251329388381.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7bb181af0908271538g3d7c7000v26cfe15768f9d2d3@mail.gmail.com>

I have never seen instructions in the carpets I have received from
Moss or TRF but if it helps:

The only pieces I glued were:
-- the long sections that run along the inside of the sills
-- the front (vertical) portion of the piece that covers the rear area
-- that semi-circular piece over the diff

I used a 3M automotive spray adhesive.

The only pieces secured with screws were the kick panels in the footwells.

If you have the original snaps on the tunnel and floor you simply
install new Veltex(sp) fasteners to match those.

The inner seat-belt eyebolts secure the rear end of the tunnel piece.

I omit the snaps for the floor pieces as I use extra
padding/insulation making things possibly too thick for snaps.  Never
had one fly away.

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Aug 27 17:36:36 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 23:36:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] Carpet install instructions TR4
In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0908271538g3d7c7000v26cfe15768f9d2d3@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <905117295.4609691251416196729.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

----- "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com> wrote:

> From: "Geo Hahn" <ahwahnee18 at gmail.com>
> To: pethier at comcast.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 5:38:10 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
> Subject: Re: [TR] Carpet install instructions TR4
>
> I have never seen instructions in the carpets I have received from
> Moss or TRF but if it helps:
> 
> The only pieces I glued were:
> -- the long sections that run along the inside of the sills
> -- the front (vertical) portion of the piece that covers the rear
> area
> -- that semi-circular piece over the diff
> 
> I used a 3M automotive spray adhesive.
> 
> The only pieces secured with screws were the kick panels in the
> footwells.
> 
> If you have the original snaps on the tunnel and floor you simply
> install new Veltex(sp) fasteners to match those.
> 
> The inner seat-belt eyebolts secure the rear end of the tunnel piece.

Sue's TR4 does not have factory seatbelt mounts.  Seatbelts were not required in the USA until 1963.  The seatbelts are aftermarkets bolted through the floor carpet to the steel floor.

> 
> I omit the snaps for the floor pieces as I use extra
> padding/insulation making things possibly too thick for snaps.  Never
> had one fly away.




Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Aug 27 18:36:34 2009
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:36:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Roll Bar Finishing
In-Reply-To: <145314.7459.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <145314.7459.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2CDE23E0645A4513ABB42E73A1B3F0DD@joepentiumnew>

I had Tiny Tim's roll bar powder coated in crinkle black.

JOe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 11:36 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] TR6 Roll Bar Finishing

     I am prepping my roll bar to install in the TR6. Most roll bars I have
seen are satin black. I have also seen them chromed. I have kicked around
the
idea of painting it body color (Mallard Blue), interior color (new tan),
bright yellow (why not) or black and then wrapping it in bicycle bar tape or
cloth tape for the boy racer look. I have also seen some vinyl wrapped or
foam
wrapped. What have others done that look cool?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From trglory at verizon.net  Thu Aug 27 18:43:09 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 20:43:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <354a1780908271513y68ca7c44t98f62f591e963c81@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net>
	<D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
	<8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
	<020501ca2760$ded4eb80$9c7ec280$@net>
	<354a1780908271513y68ca7c44t98f62f591e963c81@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <023601ca2778$84726a10$8d573e30$@net>

Irv;

 

Yeah, but if I had an electric garage door opener then I wouldn't have an
excuse to pour the Rebel Yell.

 

Joe

 

From: Irv Korey [mailto:emanteno at gmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 6:13 PM
To: Joe Laurito
Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; zoboherald at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical

 

You could save alot of those steps, including the light portion, if you had
an electric garage door opener.

 

;-)

 

Irv Korey

74 TR6 CF22767U (no electric door opener, no gorceries in the trunk either)

Highland Park, IL

From spook01 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 27 19:48:17 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 20:48:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Cool TR8
References: <c40.64b951e1.37c722dd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6CE3745FDDC844649738280D80665095@yourpd3mh0abgs>

hi guys,
for you wedge drivers, last year some folks indicated they wanted a wedge 
class at the nashville car show in oct.  if you are interested, email me.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <ElangTR4 at aol.com>
To: <McGaheyRx at aol.com>
Cc: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 6:44 PM
Subject: [TR] Cool TR8


> Listers,
>
> I just received my copy of Hemming's Sports & Exotic Cars in the mail
> today. There's a nice article about fellow lister Jack McGahey's lovely 
> lime
> green TR8. The article mentions that the car was in the British Leyland 
> press
> fleet and I dug up an old copy of Car and Driver that has the car on the
> cover.  The car looks as good as new and probably runs better! I've also 
> got
> some great  pictures of Jack flinging the car over the hills of West 
> Virginia
> and  Kentucky  on the 2006 British Reliability Run. Congratulations Jack.
>
> There's also a bit on a Spitfire, as well as former Triumph insider Mike
> Cook's monthly column.
>
> Eric L.
> 71 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Thu Aug 27 20:10:55 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 22:10:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage
In-Reply-To: <434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <434638896.4014131251373830545.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E961AEC805344F079F222C99E10BCD13@CarlPC>

Congrats on the garage...  mine has made me a much happy camper working on 
the project.

I used a standard furniture mover (18x24 or thereabouts) as a base and built 
a rolling pegboard. Could make one just as easily from plywood with rolling 
wheels (get the ones that have bearings so they'll roll any directions). 
1x4's around the base to make a 'catch-all' then built a frame out of 2x2's 
about 40" tall.  Attached an old removable tool box shelf to the top as 
another catch all - also has a handle that I can use to move it.  Then put 
pegboard on either side of the 2x2 for hanging the tools.  When not in use 
it rolls real easily into a nook I have next to the tool bench.   I don't 
have pictures but can get them if wanted.    Oh, I also put 2x2 bracing on 
either end/both sides from the frame down to the dolly base for stability. 
Works like a charm.

Carl
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <terryrs at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 7:50 AM
Subject: [TR] Tool Storage


>
> So...does anybody have experience with a rolling tool chest they like and 
> a
> reasonably priced source for it?B
>
> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
>
> New Hampshire

From emanteno at gmail.com  Thu Aug 27 20:51:10 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 21:51:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <023601ca2778$84726a10$8d573e30$@net>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net>
	<D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
	<8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
	<020501ca2760$ded4eb80$9c7ec280$@net>
	<354a1780908271513y68ca7c44t98f62f591e963c81@mail.gmail.com>
	<023601ca2778$84726a10$8d573e30$@net>
Message-ID: <354a1780908271951s515aa07cs39eb8cb8ce7914b7@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Aug 27, 2009 at 7:43 PM, Joe Laurito <trglory at verizon.net> wrote:

>  Irv;
>
>
>
> Yeah, but if I had an electric garage door opener then I wouldnt have an
> excuse to pour the Rebel Yell.
>
>
>

Joe, Joe Joe,

With n electric garage door opener, you could be pouring it sooner.

;-)

Irv

From tom628 at verizon.net  Thu Aug 27 20:55:18 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 22:55:18 -0400
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net><D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
	<8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3CAE28993B504B90903E10121D4068B9@Toms>

I ran a separate fused line back to the switch. Disconected and taped off 
the original line.
Subsequently added another cheap, bright light on the left wall from the 
same switch.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <acekraut11 at aol.com>
To: <zoboherald at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical


> I have a 71 so I dont have to worry about this situation, but the biggest 
> problem I see about having the light only come on when the switch is on 
> for lights is getting into the trunk at night AFTER you have turned off 
> the car.? I am not in the habit of coming home from the grocery store 
> after dark, leave the engine running, unload the groceries then return to 
> shut off the car?? Or it would be pretty hard to turn off the headlight 
> switch after you had removed everything from the trunk and your hands were 
> full of whatever was in the trunk.? So, what do those people who have 74 
> and on up cars do in that type of a situation?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Mace <zoboherald at aol.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Thu, Aug 27, 2009 9:49 am
> Subject: Re: [TR] Not good with electrical
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
>
>
> ...So for 1973 and earlier, the light came on when the trunk was opened. 
> From
> 1974 -
> 76, you had to have the headlight switch on for the light to work. It 
> makes
> no sense to me but that's how it was done.
>
> ==AM==
> I suppose one might make the argument that is seems somewhat pointless to 
> have a
> trunk light in daylight,
> i.e., when you wouldn't need lights anywhere. But given the BLMC corporate
> bean-counter policies of the
> time, perhaps some accountant determined that several pence per vehicle 
> might be
> saved by NOT running that extra
> dedicated purple wire all the way back to the boot? ;-)
>
> --Andy Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph 
> Herald
> engine with wings.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Aug 27 20:55:10 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 20:55:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <20090827125534.CPB95211@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain>
	<20090827125534.CPB95211@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice>

I'm sure the claimed range of 230 miles on a charge is based on driving like
granny going for an MPG record in her Toyota Corolla.  If you have the
special high-amp 230v charging unit it takes about 6 hours, when I asked
what if I am just out at a friends house and all we have is the basic 110v
outlet in the garage, the answer was 36-48 hours!  It is about $6.00 at PG&E
rates.

Bill



-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 10:56 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] LBC?

Todd Richmond wrote:
> I'm sure many of you are aware of the Tesla Roadster...

While sitting in a doctor's office a month or so ago I read a review of said
car in one of the principle car mags.  Don't remember for sure but it may
have been C&D.  As I recall, they liked its performance (who wouldn't!) but
weren't so keen on its driving position.  More importantly though, it's
battery performance was questionable.  In its present form it supposedly got
only about 200 miles per charge, a charging cycle might take all night, and
it required a special charging terminal with its own electrical service.
They towed it to the track for testing rather than drove it.

Fortuantely I can't afford that kind of price anyway so it doesn't bother me
at all.
--
Jim Muller
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Fri Aug 28 05:07:10 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 13:07:10 +0200
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net><D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC><8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com><8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com><020501ca2760$ded4eb80$9c7ec280$@net>
	<354a1780908271513y68ca7c44t98f62f591e963c81@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <12C2F875961C43E2B079A08DB545692C@Study>

< no gorceries in the trunk either)>

Poor Irv, must be hell to have a trunk without gorceries!

David Brister
1967 TR4A
(C/W gorcerieless boot)


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 24829 of my spam emails to date.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

The Professional version does not have this message

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 05:17:05 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 06:17:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] LBC?
References: <1251379634.25195.12.camel@localhost.localdomain><20090827125534.CPB95211@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice>
Message-ID: <7B0289ED187947AC879E424CB5E01287@yourpd3mh0abgs>

a tv show tested it at speed.  it lasted 2 laps.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <wbeech at flash.net>
To: <jimmuller at rcn.com>; <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] LBC?


> I'm sure the claimed range of 230 miles on a charge is based on driving 
> like
> granny going for an MPG record in her Toyota Corolla.  If you have the
> special high-amp 230v charging unit it takes about 6 hours, when I asked
> what if I am just out at a friends house and all we have is the basic 110v
> outlet in the garage, the answer was 36-48 hours!  It is about $6.00 at 
> PG&E
> rates.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com
> Sent: Thursday, August 27, 2009 10:56 AM
> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] LBC?
>
> Todd Richmond wrote:
>> I'm sure many of you are aware of the Tesla Roadster...
>
> While sitting in a doctor's office a month or so ago I read a review of 
> said
> car in one of the principle car mags.  Don't remember for sure but it may
> have been C&D.  As I recall, they liked its performance (who wouldn't!) 
> but
> weren't so keen on its driving position.  More importantly though, it's
> battery performance was questionable.  In its present form it supposedly 
> got
> only about 200 miles per charge, a charging cycle might take all night, 
> and
> it required a special charging terminal with its own electrical service.
> They towed it to the track for testing rather than drove it.
>
> Fortuantely I can't afford that kind of price anyway so it doesn't bother 
> me
> at all.
> --
> Jim Muller
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From allenhess at mgcarclub.com  Fri Aug 28 05:56:55 2009
From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 07:56:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 roll bar finishing
Message-ID: <A6EA1624-86A5-4071-86BA-651916C569F2@mgcarclub.com>

I remember a news story from several years ago when a person was  
killed in a Jeep as a result of striking their head on the roll bar.  
It wasn't a roll over accident. I'd be inclined to use foam.

From edwd at ti.com  Fri Aug 28 06:08:44 2009
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 07:08:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] tool storage
Message-ID: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7805AF1DD@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

I have a Sears roll around, 3 level, toolbox.  As another post said, buy
bigger than you think you will ever need.  For instance, I bought a set of
line wrenches this past weekend to put a master cylinder on a Honda.  After
buying tools for 40 years almost everyone, including myself, was amazed that I
didn't have a set of those already.  Now, given the weight that I have in each
slide drawer, I sort of want a ball bearing glide box, but that will have to
wait.

As for storage, I have most everything in the roll around, but bigger items in
my cabinets, such as soldering equipment, plumbing fittings, etc.  My box is
highly organized, with phillips screwdrivers facing one direction and slotted
the other, in a drawer labeled 'screwdrivers'.  In there as well are Torx,
offsets, stubbies, jewelers, etc.  Socket drawer has = in drive, 3/8 in drive,
< in drive, deep well, metric, standard, etc.  I have had countless youths,
both male and female, help me in my shop, hang out, and learn on their own
cars so being able to tell them exactly in which drawer they can locate that
#2 phillips is important.  My grandchildren are now learning the drawers and
the difference between a box end and an open end, and why they are each
important.  Also, at the end of each job, the tools are wiped down and put
away in their exact positions.  This cleaning time offers reflection on a job,
usually completed successfully, and good conversation.  I have always
instructed that, "if you don't have time to clean up afterwards, you don't
have time for the job".  I find that I do not like to delve into a day's, or
even an hours worth of work if I have to start in a mess.  That, and almost
invariably I am pressed for time when I need a tool for an unexpected repair
and I need everything to be within easy reach and quickly located.  That is
just me.  Once my son was banned from the garage after his third warning for
not putting away the tools that he had borrowed.  It was a dark time for him
as I also told him to get all of his stuff out of my shop as well; he had lost
privileges.  His car was stuffed with stuff, including a bicycle, for two
weeks, before I asked him if he was ready to respect the rules of the work
area.  He was, and there was never a recurrence.  To this day he keeps his own
tools organized, and a flashlight in his car!

Ed
Dallas, Tx

From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri Aug 28 06:15:43 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 07:15:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Not good with electrical
In-Reply-To: <12C2F875961C43E2B079A08DB545692C@Study>
References: <20090826134305.69D541878DB@autox.team.net>
	<D533456B986E4A2DBC96FD6F0D78572F@BOBSNEWPC>
	<8CBF534629DBCC5-35D0-7C12@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBF56294FE930C-1234-D963@webmail-m021.sysops.aol.com>
	<020501ca2760$ded4eb80$9c7ec280$@net>
	<354a1780908271513y68ca7c44t98f62f591e963c81@mail.gmail.com>
	<12C2F875961C43E2B079A08DB545692C@Study>
Message-ID: <354a1780908280515i32c0e666x107b7a3ee2e38e6c@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Aug 28, 2009 at 6:07 AM, David Brister <david.brister at wanadoo.fr>wrote:

> < no gorceries in the trunk either)>
>
> Poor Irv, must be hell to have a trunk without gorceries!
>

No groceries, no electric garage door opener, but I do have a flashlight.

Irv

From mathews at uga.edu  Fri Aug 28 06:42:21 2009
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 08:42:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] tool storage
In-Reply-To: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7805AF1DD@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7805AF1DD@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <4A97D0AD.5060707@uga.edu>

Gee...me too!

Doug

Fisher, Ed wrote:
> My box is highly organized, with phillips screwdrivers facing one direction and slotted
> the other, in a drawer labeled 'screwdrivers'.  In there as well are Torx,
> offsets, stubbies, jewelers, etc.  

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Aug 28 08:38:54 2009
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 07:38:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 roll bar
In-Reply-To: <mailman.831.1251419796.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.831.1251419796.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <192548.77785.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>What have others done that look cool?
>Bill in Tehachapi

Bill:

Cool is
obviously in the eye of the owner, and beholder - but I wouldn't want a
rollbar overpowering look of the rest of your car.  Mine is satin black, which
I think is the perfect accent.  But whatever you do, wrap it in foam or a
foam/vinyl cover.  Your head will thank you for it.  

Joe Merone
CF18928 
5-speed 

From cfisher at borgwarner.com  Fri Aug 28 08:47:44 2009
From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 10:47:44 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 roll bar
In-Reply-To: <192548.77785.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.831.1251419796.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<192548.77785.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD025A155A@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net>

Check out this padding:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=ROLLPAD

It's what I use in my race car.

Curt


>What have others done that look cool?
>Bill in Tehachapi

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Fri Aug 28 09:07:30 2009
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 11:07:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] tool storage
Message-ID: <380-2200985281573093@earthlink.net>

Ed,

Can I hazard a guess that you are retired?

I have a job, house, yard, mortgage, kid, wife, 2 dogs, and several needy motorized vehicles. Right now there are 5 12-year-old boys playing Super Mario Smash in my living room, after a sleep-over party. I just cooked them bacon and eggs.

I'm sure it's better to put away the tools and wipe them down and make sure all the Posidrives are pointed at Mecca. But if I lived by your maxim "if you don't have time to clean up afterwards, you don't have time for the job", then I wouldn't have time for the job. Period. I grab 30 minutes here and there when I can get them, and consider myself fortunate to be able to.  I look forward to the day when I have enough time to be more organized.

Cheers, Tom

www.triumphowners.com/735



"My box is
highly organized, with phillips screwdrivers facing one direction and slotted
the other, in a drawer labeled 'screwdrivers'. In there as well are Torx,
offsets, stubbies, jewelers, etc. Socket drawer has = in drive, 3/8 in drive,
< in drive, deep well, metric, standard, etc. I have had countless youths,
both male and female, help me in my shop, hang out, and learn on their own
cars so being able to tell them exactly in which drawer they can locate that
#2 phillips is important. My grandchildren are now learning the drawers and
the difference between a box end and an open end, and why they are each
important. Also, at the end of each job, the tools are wiped down and put
away in their exact positions. This cleaning time offers reflection on a job,
usually completed successfully, and good conversation. I have always
instructed that, "if you don't have time to clean up afterwards, you don't
have time for the job". ..
Ed
Dallas, Tx

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri Aug 28 09:30:55 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 11:30:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] tool storage
In-Reply-To: <380-2200985281573093@earthlink.net>
References: <380-2200985281573093@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <ZrWG1c00D41jCx405rWG8V@charter.net>

At 11:07 AM 8/28/2009, Tomislav Marincic wrote:
>Ed,
>
>Can I hazard a guess that you are retired?

<snip>

>  I look forward to the day when I have enough time to be more organized.

I can certainly relate to Tom's position, but I've done it both ways.

Back when dinosaurs ruled the Earth, I was a professional 
mechanic.  Got the big red Mac toolbox, the account with Snap-On, the 
whole deal.  In those days, of course, time was money - but so were 
tools.  At the end of each job, I'd wipe down all my tools and put 
them back in their highly-organized drawers.  The reason was that I 
couldn't afford to leave a tool in a customer's car, as I would never 
see it again.  So, to tell at a glance that I have everything I 
started with was good.  Then, when I started the next job, I could 
reach out and grab the tool I wanted ~without looking~ which saved time too.

Now that I wised up <g> and went back to college, got my engineering 
degree, and can afford to turn my old profession back into a hobby, 
my time is divided up even more.  Thus, some jobs get left out 
uncompleted, with the needed tools nearby.  but I still regularly 
clean up and take inventory...I've lost tools road-testing my own cars too!

My daughter has so far shown no inclination to "borrow" my tools, so 
that's not a problem...but I remember how I treated my Dad.  then I 
got my own tool box for a present, and we each had a different color 
of tape to mark our tools....

P.S.   At the end of the day at the VW shop, we'd clean our tools and 
lock them up.  Then we'd mop the bays with mineral spirits, and wash 
it down the drain.  Did I mention this was a ~long~ time ago?  But it 
sure was clean...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 28 09:31:52 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 08:31:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] tool storage
In-Reply-To: <380-2200985281573093@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20090828153152759.KTFQ6096@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> I'm sure it's better to put away the tools and wipe them down and make
> sure all the Posidrives are pointed at Mecca. But if I lived by your maxim
> "if you don't have time to clean up afterwards, you don't have time for
> the job", then I wouldn't have time for the job. Period. 

Amen!

Thanks, Tom.

-- Your friendly local tool slob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 28 09:45:47 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 08:45:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice>
Message-ID: <20090828154547585.CFSW8054@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> I'm sure the claimed range of 230 miles on a charge is based on driving
> like
> granny going for an MPG record in her Toyota Corolla. 

Then again, maybe not.  Here's an article by R&T, where track testing
followed by some driving "con brio" produced an estimated 132 miles per
charge.  It also notes that the 230 mile estimate was produced using the
EPA's standard "city" profile.
http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=10&article_id=7297

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 10:24:55 2009
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 16:24:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice>
Message-ID: <807799869.4512161251476695097.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

>...If you have the
>special high-amp 230v charging unit it takes about 6 hours, when I asked
>what if I am just out at a friends house and all we have is the basic 110v
>outlet in the garage, the answer was 36-48 hours! B It is about $6.00 at PG&E
>rates.

So let me get this straight:B  Modern R&D on electrical for cars is just about
level of the Lucas in my 50 year old Triumph.



If I drive mine in the dark with lights and a generator, the battery is
drained in a couple of weeks and needs external charging (couple hours?)....



What about this electrical car running with headlights in the mix?



TIC!



Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

NH

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 28 10:26:25 2009
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 16:26:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 Roll Bar Finishing
In-Reply-To: <145314.7459.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <145314.7459.qm@web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W215CE77462CD4E3CF80372E5F50@phx.gbl>

I had mine powder coated as close to body color as possible.

Best regards,
Tom




_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=PID23391::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM
_HYGN_faster:082009

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Aug 28 10:27:53 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 12:27:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] tool storage
References: <380-2200985281573093@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <9E1C4081B35C49ABA8715094F7E27834@fred8kwiskhcfu>

I think you learn how to become organized before you retire, you certainly 
have way  to many chores to do dailey after retiring, don't believe me well 
then just ask "her' or read "her" list on the frig door  !!!!!!
===========================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tomislav Marincic" <tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net>
To: "triumphs list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] tool storage


> Ed,
>
> Can I hazard a guess that you are retired?
>
> I have a job, house, yard, mortgage, kid, wife, 2 dogs, and several needy 
> motorized vehicles. Right now there are 5 12-year-old boys playing Super 
> Mario Smash in my living room, after a sleep-over party. I just cooked 
> them bacon and eggs.
>
> I'm sure it's better to put away the tools and wipe them down and make 
> sure all the Posidrives are pointed at Mecca. But if I lived by your maxim 
> "if you don't have time to clean up afterwards, you don't have time for 
> the job", then I wouldn't have time for the job. Period. I grab 30 minutes 
> here and there when I can get them, and consider myself fortunate to be 
> able to.  I look forward to the day when I have enough time to be more 
> organized.
>
> Cheers, Tom
>
> www.triumphowners.com/735
>
>
>
> "My box is
> highly organized, with phillips screwdrivers facing one direction and 
> slotted
> the other, in a drawer labeled 'screwdrivers'. In there as well are Torx,
> offsets, stubbies, jewelers, etc. Socket drawer has = in drive, 3/8 in 
> drive,
> < in drive, deep well, metric, standard, etc. I have had countless youths,
> both male and female, help me in my shop, hang out, and learn on their own
> cars so being able to tell them exactly in which drawer they can locate 
> that
> #2 phillips is important. My grandchildren are now learning the drawers 
> and
> the difference between a box end and an open end, and why they are each
> important. Also, at the end of each job, the tools are wiped down and put
> away in their exact positions. This cleaning time offers reflection on a 
> job,
> usually completed successfully, and good conversation. I have always
> instructed that, "if you don't have time to clean up afterwards, you don't
> have time for the job". ..
> Ed
> Dallas, Tx
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 10:29:06 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 09:29:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] tool storage
In-Reply-To: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7805AF1DD@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
References: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7805AF1DD@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c6bdb57c4200@[192.168.2.3]>

My wife AnnaBelle is a retired Nurse, when a local hospital was 
remodeling, we obtained a       " food service tray"  It is designed 
to roll next to the bed and then over the bed to allow the patient to 
eat.
The height of the tray is adjustable, so I can move it next to the 
car, and place the tray over the engine (if needed) and work with 
tools and parts from there ... very simple, very workable. And since 
it was "expendable" very cheap ...
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 28 10:37:48 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 12:37:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] tool storage
In-Reply-To: <20090828153152759.KTFQ6096@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
References: <380-2200985281573093@earthlink.net>
	<20090828153152759.KTFQ6096@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <20090828123748.CPE85570@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

> "if you don't have time to clean up afterwards, you don't
> have time for the job", then I wouldn't have time for the
> job. Period.

Definition:

Tool Box - n. A rectangular metal container where lazy tools go to hide so as to avoid havning to do any work.
--
However I do keep my metric and SAE tools in separate Tool Boxes so that they can hide among their own kind.  And I keep most of the sockets like ducks, which is to say in a row and in sequence.  The Allen Wrench brothers live in their own sacks.  Larger items such as torque wrenchs live on a shelf, to the extent that shelf space is available at all.  The screwdrives, spanners, extensions, rachets, and other unsortable devices are rather less well-disciplined and very much better at hiding.

Jim Muller, short of space

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 28 10:42:59 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 12:42:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] tool storage
In-Reply-To: <a06240800c6bdb57c4200@[192.168.2.3]>
References: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7805AF1DD@dlee02.ent.ti.com>
	<a06240800c6bdb57c4200@[192.168.2.3]>
Message-ID: <20090828124259.CPE86576@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

Bill Pugh wrote:
> My wife AnnaBelle is a retired Nurse, when a local hospital
> was remodeling, we obtained a " food service tray"

That what I use, one "inherited" when we bought the house.  For 2 decades it has rolled nowhere, for there is no space to roll it, alas.
--
Jim Muller, still short of space

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Aug 28 10:52:16 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 12:52:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <807799869.4512161251476695097.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice>
	<807799869.4512161251476695097.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090828125216.CPE88410@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>

> > the answer was 36-48 hours!  It is about $6.00 at
> > PG&E rates.

> So let me get this straight:  Modern R&D on electrical for
> cars is just about level of the Lucas in my 50 year old
> Triumph.

And in its day you could probably fill your TR3's tank for way less than $6.00!  What would that be adjusted for inflation, I wonder?  In today's dollars the Tesla is way cheaper to run.  Yeah, and if you can afford it in the first place you probably don't need to worry about the cost of the juice.
--
Jim Muller

From amfoto1 at aol.com  Fri Aug 28 11:57:30 2009
From: amfoto1 at aol.com (Alan Myers)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 13:57:30 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Roll Bar Finishing
In-Reply-To: <mailman.832.1251419796.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.832.1251419796.3240.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8CBF62025AB16C9-7A0-229B@webmail-d016.sysops.aol.com>

Hi Bill, I'd suggest you consider some padding and a wrap with vinyl or something like that. Most roll bars are serious head knockers, so any softening will eventually be appreciated, especially if you're not wearing a helmet.

Alan Myers

amfoto1 at aol.com

San Jose, Calif.

'62 TR4 CT17602L

?

?

?

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 2009 11:36:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
Subject: [TR] TR6 Roll Bar Finishing
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <145314.7459.qm at web83304.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

     I am prepping my roll bar to install in the TR6. Most roll bars I have
seen are satin black. I have also seen them chromed. I have kicked around the
idea of painting it body color (Mallard Blue), interior color (new tan),
bright yellow (why not) or black and then wrapping it in bicycle bar tape or
cloth tape for the boy racer look. I have also seen some vinyl wrapped or foam
wrapped. What have others done that look cool?
     TIA,

     Bill in Tehachapi


------------------------------

From edwd at ti.com  Fri Aug 28 12:48:13 2009
From: edwd at ti.com (Fisher, Ed)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 13:48:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] tool storage
Message-ID: <F12EBA124C6E064B9CF1B45E67DDB7E7805AF6E9@dlee02.ent.ti.com>

<I have a job, house, yard, mortgage, kid, wife, 2 dogs, and several needy
motorized vehicles.
<I'm sure it's better to put away the tools and wipe them down and make sure
all the Posidrives are pointed at Mecca. But if I lived by your maxim "if you
don't have time to clean up afterwards, you don't have time for the job", then
I wouldn't have time for the job. Period. I grab 30 minutes here and there
when I can get them, and consider myself fortunate to be able to.  I look
forward to the day when I have enough time to be more organized.>

Oh man, this really gave me a guffaw, especially "all the Posidrives toward
Mecca".  That is well written.

Admittedly, I wrote way more than the original question warranted, asking only
about a toolbox, but I thought it germane to the subject.  Just for the
record, I am not retired :).  I have eight cars that I care for, most on the
road and running, others in various phases of restoration.  I too am pressed
for time and that is why, as another post mentioned, looking for tools that
are not where they should be REALLY irks me.  It is costly in time and
frustration expended.  In addition, when I am putting everything up I can
easily see a void in the drawer, as in a 10mm socket that may have rolled down
the carport and is now in the grass.  Or, a screwdriver that may have been
left in one of the kids' cars that come over from the church.  That is
invaluable in keeping the losses down.  Mostly though, it is about time
conservation and keeping my boiling point low.  I have always had a short fuse
when needing something and finding it not in its place.  I guess that comes
from 50-60 hour workweeks, home maintenance, tractor repairs for the 3 acres I
care for, chainsaws, motorcycles, etc.  To each his own of course, this just
works for me and I thought this perspective might work out for someone
wondering how to organize their tools into a new box/space.  Thanks for the
laugh, no kidding.  BTW, I really liked the story of the hospital tray table
for working under the hood.  That is excellent.  I have a detailer's caddy
that I put together and use to keep me from running too frequently to the
other garage where my polishes/waxes/brushes are stored.  It really cut down
on the time there too.  I must find a hospital tray! By the way, my son used
his detailing knowledge while away at college to make some darned good money.
He even bought his own Porter Cable polisher.  Kids really do take to this
stuff.

All the best,

Ed
Dallas, Tx

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 14:06:40 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 15:06:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] LBC?
References: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice><807799869.4512161251476695097.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20090828125216.CPE88410@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <41159F1B70824D46B7953D82B046A6E5@yourpd3mh0abgs>

you have to amortize the incredibly high cost of electrics to buy, add what 
it costs to run (new batteries, etc.)  and balance that with the cost of 
running a car you already own.
add to that the fact that a new car pollutes more as it is being made, than 
it does the rest of its' life (petro cars, not electrics - they are worse 
because of battery pollution) and it appears that petroleum is still the 
most energy dense form of transport.
newer cars produce almost nothing but co2 and water, electric cars merely 
have a longer tailpipe (electric plants).
electrics (I have driven some) are OK to go to work and back, then plug in 
...BUT they are useless as transport for longer distances.  the advertised 
200-odd miles of operation are figured at a optimal (low) speed.  reality is 
that it is much less.  creature comfort isn't too good, either.
all in all, that makes a trip from, say, LA to the Santa Ynez valley for a 
little wine tour about a four day trudge instead of a one day fun ride.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] LBC?


>> > the answer was 36-48 hours!  It is about $6.00 at
>> > PG&E rates.
>
>> So let me get this straight:  Modern R&D on electrical for
>> cars is just about level of the Lucas in my 50 year old
>> Triumph.
>
> And in its day you could probably fill your TR3's tank for way less than 
> $6.00!  What would that be adjusted for inflation, I wonder?  In today's 
> dollars the Tesla is way cheaper to run.  Yeah, and if you can afford it 
> in the first place you probably don't need to worry about the cost of the 
> juice.
> --
> Jim Muller
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 14:32:56 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 15:32:56 -0500
Subject: [TR] LBC?
References: <20090828154547585.CFSW8054@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <A60F6D295BB744D7B0D3AE47F715D40A@yourpd3mh0abgs>

"Plus, weight and complexity were saved."
--they worried about this in a car with 2000# of batteries???
"the car's VDS extrapolated our performance testing plus my enthusiasm into a
plug-to-plug distance of 132 miles."
--an estimate, folks.
--con brio, indeed....
"Max Range allows a slightly wider window, the increased chemical activity of
which ultimately shortens battery life. Max Performance comes with a similar
disclaimer"
--then off to the battery store...
" The list price is $109,000; options brought ours to $118,400."
--well, that's a lot when you consider cost of running an old triumph......

I await with bated breath the results of a long road trip test.

Best,
Ray

----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 10:45 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] LBC?


>> I'm sure the claimed range of 230 miles on a charge is based on driving
>> like
>> granny going for an MPG record in her Toyota Corolla.
>
> Then again, maybe not.  Here's an article by R&T, where track testing
> followed by some driving "con brio" produced an estimated 132 miles per
> charge.  It also notes that the 230 mile estimate was produced using the
> EPA's standard "city" profile.
> http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=10&article_id=7297
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 14:41:39 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 13:41:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <41159F1B70824D46B7953D82B046A6E5@yourpd3mh0abgs>
References: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice><807799869.4512161251476695097.
	JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20090828125216.CPE88410@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<41159F1B70824D46B7953D82B046A6E5@yourpd3mh0abgs>
Message-ID: <a06240802c6bdefcdecee@[192.168.2.3]>

The Real Problem with electric cars are the batteries ... how do you 
dispose of them when needed, and more importantly ... everyone seems 
to ignore the fact that the electricity needed to re-charge comes 
from an power plant somewhere ... coal fired, oil fired, wood fired, 
but certainly NOT nuclear  powered  (heaven forbid we actually do 
something that makes sense), the real solution IMHO, was clearly 
demonstrated on the same show ... Hydrogen power, which also must be 
generated somewhere ... and so the problem goes on.  Jay's comment 
that autos freed horses for pleasure, and that Hydrogen could free 
our LBCs for just pleasure was great insight.  We will eventually run 
out of fossil fuels ... hopefully not before those of us alive no 
longer are ... and I suspect there will be a scientific breakthrough 
that will save the world.  Till then ... anyone know where I can get 
115/145 AVGAS??   Just kidding ... ;-)

>you have to amortize the incredibly high cost of electrics to buy, 
>add what it costs to run (new batteries, etc.)  and balance that 
>with the cost of running a car you already own.
>add to that the fact that a new car pollutes more as it is being 
>made, than it does the rest of its' life (petro cars, not electrics 
>- they are worse because of battery pollution) and it appears that 
>petroleum is still the most energy dense form of transport.
>newer cars produce almost nothing but co2 and water, electric cars 
>merely have a longer tailpipe (electric plants).
>electrics (I have driven some) are OK to go to work and back, then 
>plug in ...BUT they are useless as transport for longer distances. 
>the advertised 200-odd miles of operation are figured at a optimal 
>(low) speed.  reality is that it is much less.  creature comfort 
>isn't too good, either.
>all in all, that makes a trip from, say, LA to the Santa Ynez valley 
>for a little wine tour about a four day trudge instead of a one day 
>fun ride.
>Best,
>Ray

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
anabil007 at comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From daveg at online.no  Fri Aug 28 15:32:36 2009
From: daveg at online.no (David Griffiths)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 23:32:36 +0200
Subject: [TR] Replacing gearbox cover type-A overdrive
Message-ID: <475D0C64-46A2-412F-A96D-4BE6B02FC2C6@online.no>

Dear list.
I would like to ask for advice about converting a single-gear to a  
multiple gear type-A OD. I have a January 1957 TR-3 LO-15005,  
originally fittted with OD. It was restored by a company, and they  
found the original OD to be shot, and replaced it with an OD from a  
TR-2, with OD only on gear 4. It works well, but I am thinking  
originality a bit and fun also a bit, and am considering the thought  
of swapping out the cover with a TR-3 cover, which should give me OD  
on gears 2 - 4.

Bill Piggott talks a bit about this in his book Original Triumph,  
pages 116 and 74. At car 5980 the OD piston diameter was increased to  
1-3/8", up from 1-1/8" in preparation for the improvement, however OD  
was still confined to gear 4. From 6266 OD on gears 2 - 4 was  
introduced. He has to following to say: The factory supplied a top  
cover conversion pack, to allow three overdrive sppeds to be  
incorporated on pre-TS6266 gearboxes, although if the smaller pistons  
were fitted the resulting unit could be marginal under full torque.

The Bentley manual says the following: To enable the unit to transmit  
the maximum available torgue in the lower gears, it is necessary to  
use larger clutch operating pistons than those fitted previously. It  
then goes on to talk about the new top cover conversion assembly, and  
also how to modify the old top cover assembly to permit use of OD in  
2, 3 and 4.

I can buy a TR3A top cover assembly cheaply, and fit it onto my  
gearbox, and that should, in theory, give me OD on gears 2 -4. From  
reading it seems that Standard Triumph sold the conversion to fit both  
the new and old gearbox, but this bit about "marginal under full  
torque" has me wondering. Has anyone done what I am contemplating,  
installed the conversion or a later lid on an earlier gearbox, and if  
so, what was your experience with it? And, what might "marginal" mean,  
knowing the English love of understatement? Will the gearbox explode,  
or just slip out of OD? Of course, I will pull the tunnel off and look  
at the serial no on the gearbox, because the early and later gearbox  
had different nos. If its the later with the larger pistons it's plain  
sailing, but I'm really asking this question in case it turns out to  
be the early type.

thanks in advance,
Dave

From bill_beecher at flash.net  Fri Aug 28 15:59:44 2009
From: bill_beecher at flash.net (bill_beecher at flash.net)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 15:59:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] VW Factory... yep, non-lbc
Message-ID: <34C21BFA108B441CA70F01ACEDB1819F@bboffice>

Not LBC, but at least European.  A very cool video tour of the VW factory in
Dresden.
 
 
 <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd5WGLWNllA>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nd5WGLWNllA 


  _____  

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Aug 28 16:29:15 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 15:29:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] Replacing gearbox cover type-A overdrive
In-Reply-To: <475D0C64-46A2-412F-A96D-4BE6B02FC2C6@online.no>
References: <475D0C64-46A2-412F-A96D-4BE6B02FC2C6@online.no>
Message-ID: <6DD015B2AAC049E28796A6ED9CE29F0E@jdnet.deere.com>

> although if the smaller pistons
> were fitted the resulting unit could be marginal under full torque.

Then I guess the question becomes "Why implement OD in 2nd if you can't use
it?"  2nd OD is kind of problematic anyway, especially if your engine was
rebuilt with 86 or 87 mm liners.  And while the difference between 1-1/8 and
1-3/8 doesn't sound like much, it means 50% more force applied to the OD
clutch.

Personally, I wouldn't want to make the conversion unless I could confirm
that the unit has the larger pistons.

> > I can buy a TR3A top cover assembly cheaply, and fit it onto my
> gearbox,

If you do, be sure to get an early one with the dipstick.  Otherwise, you'll
have no way to add or check the oil level; as the early gearboxes lack the
plug on the side found on later ones.  Or, use the components from the 3A
top cover to convert your existing cover.

> And, what might "marginal" mean,
> knowing the English love of understatement? Will the gearbox explode,
> or just slip out of OD?

Not "slip out" exactly, just slip.  If you pay attention and always back off
the throttle immediately when it starts to slip, it might be OK.  But while
it is slipping, the clutch surface will wear rapidly and eventually lead to
another expensive rebuild.

Either way, IMO you should check the hydraulic pressure in the OD.  I don't
have the information handy, but ISTR that the early units with the small
pistons ran more pressure than the later ones did; so you'll also need to
research the correct pressure.

-- Randall 

From yellowtr3 at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 28 17:39:50 2009
From: yellowtr3 at yahoo.com (Frank Fisher)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 16:39:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LBC?
In-Reply-To: <20090828125216.CPE88410@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
References: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice>
	<807799869.4512161251476695097.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<20090828125216.CPE88410@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
Message-ID: <492709.13157.qm@web111617.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message ----
From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To:
jimmuller at rcn.com
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 10:40:42 AM
Subject: Re: [TR]
LBC?


all this talk of "new" electric cars gets me thinking to older times.
when i was a kid of about +/-12 years old i used to get up at 4:30 am and walk
uphill in the rain to the local dairy.
there i would help load the electric
delivery cart with hundreds of pints (imperial) of milk.
the dairy owner and i
would deliver milk to doorsteps till about 8:30 when i had to jump off and
head to school. on weekends id complete the full round of deliveries finishing
around 1:00 pm.
that was about 8 hours of electric cart time. now we where not
accelerating like the tesler and our top speed was only around 20 mph. but we
put a lot of miles on that cart with a huge weight of milk
have we really made
electric car progress?
Frank Fisher
oh yes, and when he dropped me off on
school days, it was uphill in the rain again to get the bus! ;-)
________________________________
From: "jimmuller at rcn.com" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 9:52:16 AM
Subject:
Re: [TR] LBC?

> > the answer was 36-48 hours!  It is about $6.00 at
> > PG&E
rates.

> So let me get this straight:  Modern R&D on electrical for
> cars is
just about level of the Lucas in my 50 year old
> Triumph.

And in its day you
could probably fill your TR3's tank for way less than $6.00!  What would that
be adjusted for inflation, I wonder?  In today's dollars the Tesla is way
cheaper to run.  Yeah, and if you can afford it in the first place you
probably don't need to worry about the cost of the juice.
--
Jim Muller
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage
Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From mmarr at notwires.com  Fri Aug 28 17:45:41 2009
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 18:45:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LBC?
References: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice><807799869.4512161251476695097.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><20090828125216.CPE88410@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net>
	<492709.13157.qm@web111617.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B08880A837784A8687F3FAF031F621D7@trigeni.com>

I remember the electric milk carts too, plus the local "Co-op's" baker's 
delivery van was electric powered.  The more things change the more they 
stay the same.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 6:39 PM
Subject: [TR] Fw: LBC?


> ----- Forwarded Message ----
> From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
> To:
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 10:40:42 AM
> Subject: Re: [TR]
> LBC?
>
>
> all this talk of "new" electric cars gets me thinking to older times.
> when i was a kid of about +/-12 years old i used to get up at 4:30 am and 
> walk
> uphill in the rain to the local dairy.
> there i would help load the electric
> delivery cart with hundreds of pints (imperial) of milk.
> the dairy owner and i
> would deliver milk to doorsteps till about 8:30 when i had to jump off and
> head to school. on weekends id complete the full round of deliveries 
> finishing
> around 1:00 pm.
> that was about 8 hours of electric cart time. now we where not
> accelerating like the tesler and our top speed was only around 20 mph. but 
> we
> put a lot of miles on that cart with a huge weight of milk
> have we really made
> electric car progress?

From jeremiah at curryclan.net  Fri Aug 28 21:33:50 2009
From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 21:33:50 -0600
Subject: [TR] leaking fuel tap
Message-ID: <AEDDA9639B094370A426A517424DBB41@ultimate7>

While "restoring" my 1957 TR3 I replaced the fuel tap with a new one from
Moss.  However it leaks and seems to be leaking from the actual tap, not the
connections, anyone have experience with this?  Every time I fill the tank
it empties itself on my garage floor.

 

Thanks,

Jeremiah

From spook01 at comcast.net  Fri Aug 28 23:12:54 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 00:12:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fw:  LBC?
References: <9B226F86BE8349CEAEFB539D2CF79E24@bboffice><807799869.4512161251476695097.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><20090828125216.CPE88410@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net><492709.13157.qm@web111617.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<B08880A837784A8687F3FAF031F621D7@trigeni.com>
Message-ID: <7A365E9417F84056A4F8FA495E9E6A80@yourpd3mh0abgs>

electric cars were around at the turn of the 20th century.  they competed 
with other power options, but lost to gas.
Best,
Ray


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr at notwires.com>
To: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>; <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Fw: LBC?


>I remember the electric milk carts too, plus the local "Co-op's" baker's 
>delivery van was electric powered.  The more things change the more they 
>stay the same.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Frank Fisher" <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
> To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 6:39 PM
> Subject: [TR] Fw: LBC?
>
>
>> ----- Forwarded Message ----
>> From: Frank Fisher <yellowtr3 at yahoo.com>
>> To:
>> jimmuller at rcn.com
>> Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 10:40:42 AM
>> Subject: Re: [TR]
>> LBC?
>>
>>
>> all this talk of "new" electric cars gets me thinking to older times.
>> when i was a kid of about +/-12 years old i used to get up at 4:30 am and 
>> walk
>> uphill in the rain to the local dairy.
>> there i would help load the electric
>> delivery cart with hundreds of pints (imperial) of milk.
>> the dairy owner and i
>> would deliver milk to doorsteps till about 8:30 when i had to jump off 
>> and
>> head to school. on weekends id complete the full round of deliveries 
>> finishing
>> around 1:00 pm.
>> that was about 8 hours of electric cart time. now we where not
>> accelerating like the tesler and our top speed was only around 20 mph. 
>> but we
>> put a lot of miles on that cart with a huge weight of milk
>> have we really made
>> electric car progress?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Aug 29 04:13:43 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 05:13:43 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] leaking fuel tap
Message-ID: <17960597.1251540824163.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>


From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Aug 29 04:16:12 2009
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 05:16:12 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] leaking fuel tap
Message-ID: <6453093.1251540972826.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Jeremiah, 

Inside that fuel tap is a cork plunger. There is a slotted screw in the center of the control knob that can be tightened to further compress the cork for a better seal. New cork seals were available when I had my 1958 TR3A and I may have one somewhere in the barn. I have heard of others using a combination of plumbing faucet washers for a substitute but have no experience doing that. 


Greg Gelhar 
1973 TR6 
1980 TR8 
Osseo, MN 

P. S. 
I'm going to see John McCartney today as he passes through Minneapolis driving a 1973 Stag on his 10,000 mile trip through North America.    www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ 


>Subject: [TR] leaking fuel tap 
> 
>While "restoring" my 1957 TR3 I replaced the fuel tap with a new one from 
>Moss. However it leaks and seems to be leaking from the actual tap, not the 
>connections, anyone have experience with this? Every time I fill the tank 
>it empties itself on my garage floor. 
> 
> 
> 
>Thanks, 
> 
>Jeremiah

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Sat Aug 29 05:09:50 2009
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 07:09:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fw: Dunlop SP50s  SR165-15
Message-ID: <5A1338D6DD8040E1B6170092DF760B02@CarlPC>

Does anyone have a used one sitting around still with decent tread?   Or any
ideas where to look for a 'recycled' one?

I have a set on my '3 and I am looking for a matching spare.

Thanks
Carl
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/

From ElangTR4 at aol.com  Sat Aug 29 05:39:31 2009
From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 07:39:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR tool storage
Message-ID: <c6a.58a2f697.37ca6d73@aol.com>

I'm not nearly the mechanic that most of you are so my repairs jobs are  
usually of the most basic level. Consequently I don't own many tools, but as I 
 attempt more jobs I look for more tools to buy (almost as fun as Triumph 
stuff).  I hope to be like Ed when I grow up, although my wife says she 
doesn't think she  could be married him. She is the one who is somewhat less than 
 "organized".
 
Eric L.
71 TR6

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Aug 29 08:24:40 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 10:24:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] paint
Message-ID: <200908291024.41124.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

I put this query on the 6 pack forum but no replies.

So now I turn to the mail list.

Has anyone on 6-Pack used www.tcpglobal.com for their paint?

I am looking for Acrylic Urethane which I believe is a single stage.

I have used PPG DCC before but it is about twice as expensive as what Global 
sells.

The paint is called "restoration shop paint".

If you have used global, how good were they in matching the color when you 
gave them the year, color name and reference # as show on this page:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1973-triumph-pg03.jpg

I did try and search the forum for tcp global but only received 1 hit and all 
it really didn't show much detail etc.

Thanks,

Bob

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Sat Aug 29 08:22:09 2009
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 16:22:09 +0200
Subject: [TR] Window (rattling) channel.
Message-ID: <462F6239A3FA469691759AD826727F2B@Study>

A bit late perhaps but I found this most useful a few years ago whe plagued 
with rattling windows.

http://www.sctoa.org/win-chan.htm

YMMV

David Brister
1976 TR4A
CTC77785 O 


-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 24873 of my spam emails to date.
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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Aug 29 10:42:52 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 12:42:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Window (rattling) channel.
In-Reply-To: <462F6239A3FA469691759AD826727F2B@Study>
References: <462F6239A3FA469691759AD826727F2B@Study>
Message-ID: <B33129D459AC49DC942B357B931B5ED4@BOBSNEWPC>

I used that write up along with a suggestion from  one of the guys in the
6-Pack Forum to use Velcro to line the channels. I did it a few years ago
and it works great. Since then a bunch of 6-Pack guys have used the same
technique with excellent results. It's a whole lot cheaper than buying new
channels. I wrote it all up with pictures here:
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Brister
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 10:22 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Window (rattling) channel.

A bit late perhaps but I found this most useful a few years ago whe plagued
with rattling windows.

http://www.sctoa.org/win-chan.htm

YMMV

David Brister
1976 TR4A
CTC77785 O 


--
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
SPAMfighter has removed 24873 of my spam emails to date.
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The Professional version does not have this message
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http://www.team.net/archive

From agraham at execulink.com  Sat Aug 29 11:28:40 2009
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 13:28:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 ball joint installation problems
Message-ID: <200908291728.n7THSSlb015905@smtp2.execulink.net>

Hello List:
Trying (again) to install a new set of ball joints to the upper 
control arms on my TR2 project. The joints are supposed to "cut" into 
the pressed metal with the splines. No luck whatsoever and about 1/4" 
of the splines are visible and the joint does not fit snuggly against 
the control arm. Doesn't seem that the old spline groves help with 
this either. Using TRF's  ball joints.
Have followed the manual instructions and description of the arm 
overlap. Don't want to strip the joint threads by using excessive 
impact wrench force. Would a press work better??
A couple of friends with good mechanical background have tried to 
help, but no luck.
Why should something so simple be so tough??
Any hints or past experiences?
Thanks for your help with this.

Angelo Graham

From k_nachman at comcast.net  Sat Aug 29 12:16:20 2009
From: k_nachman at comcast.net (Ken)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 14:16:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Hazard & Brake dash decals on TR250 & TR6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1251568801.8829.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1251568801.8829.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <002101ca28d4$cf1a1010$6d4e3030$@net>

Does anyone have a source for the HAZARD and BRAKE dash decals used on
TR250s and early TR6s?

Ken Nachman
Richmond Triumph Register
1969 TR6

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Aug 29 13:42:22 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 19:42:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Seat Belt Anchors
In-Reply-To: <AB904D56-AE10-48AD-81EB-8DCD250ABFCF@bigpond.com>
Message-ID: <1743858986.470881251574942548.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Well, John Macartney Iis here with me now. Perhaps I should have him take a look. 

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sat Aug 29 14:54:31 2009
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 13:54:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] LBC?
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908291354310.6073@hymn32.u.washington.edu>

   Coming from a list devoted to highly impractical cars whose builder went out of business decades ago, I find it both humorous and disheartening to see so much bashing of electric vehicles.

   Look, EV's are not for everyone, just as the Prius is not for everyone, the Hummer is not for everyone, and vintage Triumphs sure as heck aren't for everyone.
   But, there is a large and growing number of people who have found them to be a useful, practical, economical, and fun mode of transportation.  Economics are one consideration - and the cheaper EV's do "pay for themselves" - but there are other factors.  If you place value on the near-silent, torquey driving experience, reduced emissions (see below), or flat-out novelty of an EV, you will not regret the purchase.
   Different folks have different values, and different cars fill diferent niches.  I think many of us would say that our LBC's have paid for themselves many times over, and it's not because they get better fuel economy than the neighbor's Honda (because they don't).

   The Tesla is an extremely high-end EV.  Condemning EV's as uneconomical because the Tesla is too expensive is like condemning ICE's (cars with Internal-Combustion Engines) because a Ferrari is so expensive.  There are already cheaper ones out there (and more on the way), including converted ICE's that can cost $5000 or less and still have a big enough range to cover most people's commutes.

   Want to talk emissions?  You have to consider the whole cycle.
   For an ICE, you must drill the oil (no political problems there), transport it to a refinery, convert it to gasoline, transport it to a gas station, drive to the gas station, and then burn it in your car's tiny piston engine, which is maybe 15-20% efficient.
   For an EV, let's consider a coal-fired power plant - probably the worst case.  You have to mine the coal, transport it to the plant, convert it to electricity at about 40% efficiency, send it down the power line, charge up the batteries in your garage, and run the electric motor.
   The answer varies a bit depending on what pollutant you consider, but generally speaking, the EV comes out way ahead because the power plant and electric motor are so much more efficient than a gas-powered motor.  The only exception I know of is sulfur oxide emissions, which can be higher for an EV depending on the type of power plant.

   Regarding batteries: Lithium batteries can and will be recycled, just like lead-acids.  The materials are far too valuable to throw away.  Tesla is working with a company called Toxco (horrible name) to handle this.

   I commuted with an EV for two years (~8000 miles), and never had to change the oil or drive to a gas station.  =)  But now I work from home, so I sold it.
   My mom still has hers, a converted '76 Triumph TR7 which handles her 11-mile commute just fine.  She takes her OTHER Triumph (another TR7) if she needs to go further.

   Big deal.  Now let's get back to LBC's.
-Nick Wolf
'62-ish TR4
Seattle

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat Aug 29 16:38:11 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 18:38:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908291354310.6073@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908291354310.6073@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <aNd01c00941jCx405Nd0fR@charter.net>

At 04:54 PM 8/29/2009, you wrote:

>   Want to talk emissions?  You have to consider the whole cycle.

All I'd like to add is:  Whew do the battery materials come from, and 
what does it take to build them?

I've hard a rumor that Prius batteries have a huge carbon footprint 
since the materials go around the word at least once in the process 
of being transformed from raw ore into a finished cell.  You could 
say the same about many regular car parts too, I suspect.  But if 
you're considering the whole cycle, you need to consider the whole cycle.

Jeff Scarbrough
I Could Be Wrong Though, Ga.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Aug 29 17:06:42 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 16:06:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908291354310.6073@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <20090829230642720.MSJE8054@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> The
> only exception I know of is sulfur oxide emissions, which can be higher
> for an EV depending on the type of power plant.

However, modern coal-fired plants do very well on that score as well, due to
'scrubber' technology that removes most of the SO2 from the exhaust.  

There have also been continual improvements in the efficiency and cost of
solar cells.  We may not be far away from commercially viable solar power.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Aug 29 17:17:29 2009
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 19:17:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] LBC?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0908291354310.6073@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <4A997EC9.19860.F23FFEB@localhost>

On 29 Aug 2009 at 13:54, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:

> I find it both humorous and disheartening to see so much
> bashing of electric vehicles.

Who's bashing electric cars?  We were just bashing the Tesla.  Not 
that any of us would say no to 0-60 in under 4sec times!

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Sat Aug 29 20:24:05 2009
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:24:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Servo rebuilder Partco
In-Reply-To: <4A997EC9.19860.F23FFEB@localhost>
References: <4A997EC9.19860.F23FFEB@localhost>
Message-ID: <FAFF31F3-0224-4FA5-8087-F4C0B7652092@blakedischer.com>

Does anyone know if Partco is still around and rebuilding brake  
boosters?  ISTR they were a reasonably priced source and in  
Cincinnati, Ohio.  Getting the TR6 ready for the drive to Triumphest/ 
NATC and the booster is sorely in need of attention.

Thanks,
Blake Discher

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Aug 29 20:31:06 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:31:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Servo rebuilder Partco
In-Reply-To: <FAFF31F3-0224-4FA5-8087-F4C0B7652092@blakedischer.com>
References: <4A997EC9.19860.F23FFEB@localhost>
	<FAFF31F3-0224-4FA5-8087-F4C0B7652092@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <1D5C791E6F1F48FDA134F17CC3DAC2FB@BOBSNEWPC>

Give Ted Schumacher as TSI a call . He usually has rebuilt servos in stock
at a very reasonable price........and........he's a BIG Triumph supporter
that VTR members should be using. He's also crabby.....sometimes!


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blake J. Discher
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 10:24 PM
To: Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Servo rebuilder Partco

Does anyone know if Partco is still around and rebuilding brake boosters?
ISTR they were a reasonably priced source and in Cincinnati, Ohio.  Getting
the TR6 ready for the drive to Triumphest/ NATC and the booster is sorely in
need of attention.

Thanks,
Blake Discher
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Aug 30 07:45:43 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 06:45:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock Fitting
Message-ID: <682006.16813.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     ISTR that one of the big 3 had special door lock fitting kits where there
was some sort of clamp to fit behind the door lock instead of the little
spring steel ring clamp that is so problematic. Now I can't seem to find it in
any of the catalogs. Can someone point me in the right direction?     TIA,    
Bill in Tehachapi

From wsb1960tr3a at att.net  Sun Aug 30 07:49:07 2009
From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 06:49:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Handle Springs
Message-ID: <426805.18073.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

     On a TR6 door handle and window crank handle you have the plastic cup and
the spring. Where is the spring installed? The MOSS catalog makes it look like
it goes behind the plastic cup and TRF makes it look like it goes on top of
the cup between it and the handles. On my car one was behind the door panel
and another on top of the door handle (DPO). Where does it go?     TIA,
     Bill in Tehachapi

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 30 07:56:40 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 13:56:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 ball joint installation problems
In-Reply-To: <200908291728.n7THSSlb015905@smtp2.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <819420426.5373801251640600114.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

that joint should slip right back into the arm halves.B  it did on my early
tr4 with the same setup.B  btw, i bought lower trunnions from a supplier and
find them incredibly stiff.B  it almost feels as though the thead inside is
wrong.B  anyone else have this problem?

best,

rayB B 



----- Original Message -----
From: "Angelo Graham" <agraham at execulink.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 12:28:40 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 ball joint installation problems

Hello List:
Trying (again) to install a new set of ball joints to the upper
control arms on my TR2 project. The joints are supposed to "cut" into
the pressed metal with the splines. No luck whatsoever and about 1/4"
of the splines are visible and the joint does not fit snuggly against
the control arm. Doesn't seem that the old spline groves help with
this either. Using TRF's B ball joints.
Have followed the manual instructions and description of the arm
overlap. Don't want to strip the joint threads by using excessive
impact wrench force. Would a press work better??
A couple of friends with good mechanical background have tried to
help, but no luck.
Why should something so simple be so tough??
Any hints or past experiences?
Thanks for your help with this.

Angelo Graham
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From spook01 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 30 07:58:25 2009
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 13:58:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] TR4 Seat Belt Anchors
In-Reply-To: <1743858986.470881251574942548.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <825507554.5374111251640705008.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

hi all,

my car isB  a early tr4 with the seats likeB  a tr3.B  who makes a inertial
reel seat belt set that will work with the stock mounting points?

best,

ray



----- Original Message -----
From: pethier at comcast.net
To: "David Rogers" <dnja.rogers at bigpond.com>
Cc: "Triumph Digest" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 29, 2009 2:42:22 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Seat Belt Anchors

Well, John Macartney Iis here with me now. Perhaps I should have him take a
look.

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L B  1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban B 1994 Miata C-package B 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums B  http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Aug 30 08:20:55 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 10:20:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Handle Springs
In-Reply-To: <426805.18073.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <426805.18073.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <aeMy1c00641jCx405eMyMF@charter.net>

At 09:49 AM 8/30/2009, William Brewer wrote:
>      On a TR6 door handle and window crank handle you have the 
> plastic cup and
>the spring. Where is the spring installed?

The spring goes behind the door panel, next to the sheet metal of the 
door.  It's purpose is to keep the door panel tight against he bezel/cup.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 30 09:06:00 2009
From: a_flying_scotsman at yahoo.com (Alex Cherington)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 08:06:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock Fitting
In-Reply-To: <682006.16813.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <254818.34649.qm@web34301.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Does anybody have a way of refitting the original lock spring steel clamp?

I took one off a while ago and can't seem to get it back on.

Thanks




--- On Sun, 30/8/09, William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net> wrote:

> From: William Brewer <wsb1960tr3a at att.net>
> Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Lock Fitting
> To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, 30 August, 2009, 2:45 PM
>      ISTR that
> one of the big 3 had special door lock fitting kits where
> there
> was some sort of clamp to fit behind the door lock instead
> of the little
> spring steel ring clamp that is so problematic. Now I can't
> seem to find it in
> any of the catalogs. Can someone point me in the right
> direction?     TIA,   
> Bill in Tehachapi
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Sun Aug 30 10:59:15 2009
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 09:59:15 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] THE WOODSTOCK (NY)  BRITISH CAR MEET - SATURDAY, SEPT. 26
Message-ID: <14036767.1251651555810.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Second Annual
WOODSTOCK BRITISH CAR MEET
(British motorcycles & pre-1980 European cars invited too)

SATURDAY, SEPT. 26
10 am to 4 pm
(Rain Date: Sunday, September 27)

Woodstock Playhouse
Intersection of Route 212 and Route 375, Woodstock, NY

Join more than 100 British car owners for a smashing display of classic, quirky, and lovable British classics, right in the heart of Woodstock New York and the Catskill Mountains.

Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Projects-in-progress, daily drivers, and vintage racers are just as welcome as Concours d'Elegance show cars. If it's British, bring it!

Cars will enter the field starting at 10 am, and the fun goes on all day. Around 2 pm, we'll present awards, including People's Choice and the Longest Distance Traveled.

Spectators are welcome, and FREE parking is available. The heart of the picturesque historic hamlet of Woodstock is just minutes' walk from the Playhouse, offering shops,
restaurants, live music, and much more.

The registration fee for British cars is $15 per car at the gate; there is no pre-registration.
All proceeds from this event benefit the Woodstock Playhouse ( a non-profit org. )

Food and Refreshments will be available

DIRECTIONS

>From NYS Thruway / I-87: Take Exit 19 (Kingston) and head west on Route 28 for 5.8 miles (Speed Trap - stay under 50 mph) then turn right onto Route 375 North, which will end 2.9 miles later at Route 212 and the Playhouse.

>From Saugerties (Exit 20) Take Route 212 West into the hamlet of Woodstock. The intersection of Route 375 will be on your left; the Playhouse entrance is on your right.

>From points west: Take Route 28 East to Route 375 North. Travel 2.9 miles, and the road will end at Route 212 and the Playhouse.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: e-mail Woodstock.British at gmail.com

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 30 11:57:08 2009
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 10:57:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Partco Brake Booster Rebuilder
Message-ID: <885812.57998.qm@web37501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I GOT SOME GOOD NEWS FOR YOU.  I FOUND THE PEOPLE WHO BOUGHT OUT THE INVENTORY
AND EQUIPT. FROM PARTCO AUTOMOTIVE.  THEY ARE BRAKE MATERIALS AND PARTS INC. 
800 SHERMAN BLVD.  FORT WAYNE, IN.  46808  PHONE NUMBER 260-426-3331  AND HIS
NAME IS SCOTT.  THEY SAID THEY WILL DO THE SAME SERVICE AND PRICING AS GARY.
Chad in Tulsa

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Aug 30 12:26:45 2009
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 14:26:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Fwd: Intersting article]
Message-ID: <4A9AC465.9020806@snet.net>

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Subject: Intersting article
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http://www.carlectro.com/node/33

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 30 12:59:48 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 11:59:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Fwd: Intersting article]
In-Reply-To: <4A9AC465.9020806@snet.net>
Message-ID: <20090830185949514.JOGA6096@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

Quoth John Mitchell :
> 
> http://www.carlectro.com/node/33

That's a hoot!

Thanks, John.

-- Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 30 13:10:16 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 12:10:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 ball joint installation problems
In-Reply-To: <819420426.5373801251640600114.JavaMail.root@sz0151a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20090830191015608.BIEU8054@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> btw, i bought lower trunnions from 
> a supplier and
> find them incredibly stiff.B  it almost feels as though the 
> thead inside is
> wrong.B  anyone else have this problem?

I have seen it; caused by the threads on the vertical link being distorted.
Turned fine in the old, worn out trunnion, but bound up in the new one.

I haven't seen a trunnion with the wrong threads cut in it, but that is
certainly a possibility as well.  "Far Eastern" suppliers typically only
have metric threads on their machine tools, and sometimes use an
approximation to the specified threads.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 30 13:12:45 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 12:12:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 Door Handle Springs
In-Reply-To: <426805.18073.qm@web83301.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20090830191245195.JVDI6096@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

>      On a TR6 door handle and window crank handle you have 
> the plastic cup and
> the spring. Where is the spring installed? The MOSS catalog 
> makes it look like
> it goes behind the plastic cup and TRF makes it look like it 
> goes on top of
> the cup between it and the handles. 

No idea if this would apply to a TR6, but on American cars of that vintage,
the spring goes between the plastic and the handle.

Randall

From Joe.Simcoe at gmail.com  Sun Aug 30 15:50:07 2009
From: Joe.Simcoe at gmail.com (Joe.Simcoe at gmail.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 21:50:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] Selling Magazines and Manuals
Message-ID: <0016367657c98beeae047262e628@google.com>

Sorry to keep posting the same message . . but I am AGAIN selling a batch  
of old British (mostly Triumph - TR6 and TR250) magazines and manuals.

Some of this stuff is British publications I collected - Triumph over  
Triumph (published by Ken Richardson's son Paul). There are 6 of these,  
they have many articles regarding OLD 30's 40's 50's Triumph stuff,  
including the development of the Works racing teams etc.

Some other British stuff and some US publications. Most items were  
published in the 1990's.

Also there are a couple of Triumph books, I am sure all are still in print,  
but you can pick these up at a reasonable cost and everything is in VERY  
GOOD condition. (Except the Haynes manual which is in fair condition, but  
very usable)

Anyway - check EBAY under advanced search look for items being sold by  
GBSimcoe.

I hate to sell off this collection, but I am preparing to move and need to  
scale back.

Thanks,

Joe Simcoe

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Aug 30 17:12:54 2009
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 18:12:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] CRC and ABFM
Message-ID: <354a1780908301612k3bafe95ehd7fc3172b349a6aa@mail.gmail.com>

I'm flying out to Portland, OR next weekend for the Columbia River Classic
vintage races featuring TRiumph, held in conjunction with the All British
Field Meet at Portland International Raceway. Who else is going to be there?

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Aug 30 19:43:09 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 21:43:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 engine mount bracket
Message-ID: <BAY123-W32EC87BDD9C37003E34A25BAF20@phx.gbl>

I am making sloooow but sure progress on the TR6 (Now TR250) project. In the
process of test fitting components on the newly rebuilt frame. I am in need of
a drivers side motor mount bracket. Not the mount itself but the bracket that
bolts to the engine block. I destroyed mine in the wreck. Anybody have a spare
in a pile of parts they willing to part with? Rusty is fine.

Thanks,
Marty Sukey

_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 30 19:59:56 2009
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 21:59:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] leaking fuel tap
In-Reply-To: <AEDDA9639B094370A426A517424DBB41@ultimate7>
References: <AEDDA9639B094370A426A517424DBB41@ultimate7>
Message-ID: <8CB75E14BC264DE5B22DB65FDF9B576A@Scott>

The other option instead of using the cork, since it will dry out if you do
not run the TR3 for a period of time, is what Randall suggested, and I have
done, is to use a 3/8" rubber fuel hose. This has the proper OD to fit in
the tape body and will compress nicely when tightening the adjustment screw,
and obviously will not dry out.

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR5
'59 TR3

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeremiah Curry
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2009 11:34 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] leaking fuel tap

While "restoring" my 1957 TR3 I replaced the fuel tap with a new one from
Moss.  However it leaks and seems to be leaking from the actual tap, not the
connections, anyone have experience with this?  Every time I fill the tank
it empties itself on my garage floor.

 

Thanks,

Jeremiah

From akgraves at cox.net  Sun Aug 30 21:02:26 2009
From: akgraves at cox.net (Art Graves)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 22:02:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] Piston Ring Replacement
Message-ID: <003e01ca29e7$789fc040$69df40c0$@net>

I have a 1976 TR6 whose last engine rebuild was 180K miles ago in 1988.
Yes, I drive my car a lot.  Lately it seemed to have less power than it
should so I did a wet/dry compression check that pointed to worn rings.  Wet
compression was 10 - 20 lbs higher.

So I replaced the rings and rod bearings.  Before I did this work I could
easily turn the crank (with plugs out) by pushing the car in 4th gear. Now
it is much more difficult, even with the head off.  In fact, by the time new
rings were on the third piston, turning the crank was more difficult.  The
starter will turn the crank, but it is definitely working hard.

I suspect this is normal and once the engine has run for a bit and the rings
have set, all will be okay.  My question is, has anyone else experienced
this?  Does this sound normal?

Thanks,

Art Graves
Tulsa, OK
1976 Triumph TR6
1985 Jaguar XJ6

From tony at tonydrews.com  Sun Aug 30 21:50:51 2009
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 22:50:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] Piston Ring Replacement
In-Reply-To: <003e01ca29e7$789fc040$69df40c0$@net>
References: <003e01ca29e7$789fc040$69df40c0$@net>
Message-ID: <20090831035143.3478E187647@autox.team.net>

That does not sound normal.  I wonder if you got the right size 
bearings...  What you describe is what happens if the bearings are tight.

- Tony Drews

At 10:02 PM 8/30/2009, Art Graves wrote:
>I have a 1976 TR6 whose last engine rebuild was 180K miles ago in 1988.
>Yes, I drive my car a lot.  Lately it seemed to have less power than it
>should so I did a wet/dry compression check that pointed to worn rings.  Wet
>compression was 10 - 20 lbs higher.
>
>So I replaced the rings and rod bearings.  Before I did this work I could
>easily turn the crank (with plugs out) by pushing the car in 4th gear. Now
>it is much more difficult, even with the head off.  In fact, by the time new
>rings were on the third piston, turning the crank was more difficult.  The
>starter will turn the crank, but it is definitely working hard.
>
>I suspect this is normal and once the engine has run for a bit and the rings
>have set, all will be okay.  My question is, has anyone else experienced
>this?  Does this sound normal?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Art Graves
>Tulsa, OK
>1976 Triumph TR6
>1985 Jaguar XJ6
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
>http://www.vtr.org
>
>
>Triumphs at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
>http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 30 22:11:33 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 21:11:33 -0700
Subject: [TR] Piston Ring Replacement
In-Reply-To: <003e01ca29e7$789fc040$69df40c0$@net>
Message-ID: <20090831041134706.NVAK8054@cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com>

> The starter will turn the crank, but it is definitely working hard.

Not normal, IMO.  Did you check the end gap of the new rings in the very
bottom of the cylinders?  Double-check the bearing clearances with
Plastigage?  Something not right.

Many years ago, I built a non-LBC engine that acted similarly.  I also
thought it would loosen up in time.  The next day, it threw a rod through
the side of the engine block.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Sun Aug 30 23:04:34 2009
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 05:04:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [TR] CRC and ABFM
In-Reply-To: <354a1780908301612k3bafe95ehd7fc3172b349a6aa@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1133724279.834321251695074638.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Not me. I'll be there in three weeks time. Look for Joe Alexander in the AmBro. He was just in Minneapolis for the Triumph TransAmeriCan Charity Tour. See my Flickr site for pix.

Sue and I are in Alrxandria MN tonight and on to Fargo on the morn. We will say goodbye there to John Macartney and reunite with him in Chehalis WA. 

Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L   1979 Caterham 7
1993 Suburban  1994 Miata C-package  2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
http://forum.mnautox.com/forums   http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Aug 30 23:18:23 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 22:18:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] leaking fuel tap
In-Reply-To: <8CB75E14BC264DE5B22DB65FDF9B576A@Scott>
Message-ID: <20090831051822294.WZLL6096@cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com>

> The other option instead of using the cork, since it will dry 
> out if you do
> not run the TR3 for a period of time, is what Randall 
> suggested, and I have
> done, is to use a 3/8" rubber fuel hose. 

Was it 3/8"?  I thought it was 5/16".  Anyway, I just picked out a piece
that was the right diameter and cut it to length.  The adjustment of the
screw becomes rather critical, a fine line between so tight you cannot move
the plunger, and loose enough to leak.  But once you find the right
adjustment, it works great.  I've been using the same piece of tubing since
at least 1990 or so, and I just moved it to the project TR3 where it still
doesn't leak.

Randall

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Aug 31 04:32:07 2009
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 06:32:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 engine mount bracket
References: <BAY123-W32EC87BDD9C37003E34A25BAF20@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E72B2E94FED84C869EF67FB25C01D4C0@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Sorry Marty, I only have a little old T/R3A
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 30, 2009 9:43 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 engine mount bracket


>I am making sloooow but sure progress on the TR6 (Now TR250) project. In 
>the
> process of test fitting components on the newly rebuilt frame. I am in 
> need of
> a drivers side motor mount bracket. Not the mount itself but the bracket 
> that
> bolts to the engine block. I destroyed mine in the wreck. Anybody have a 
> spare
> in a pile of parts they willing to part with? Rusty is fine.
>
> Thanks,
> Marty Sukey
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> With Windows Live, you can organize, edit, and share your photos.
> http://www.windowslive.com/Desktop/PhotoGallery
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From rengrave at verizon.net  Mon Aug 31 07:36:11 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (rengrave at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 08:36:11 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Wire on starter
Message-ID: <2124518675.878735.1251725771826.JavaMail.root@vms231.mailsrvcs.net>

/y347Sq: Permission denied

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Aug 31 08:10:20 2009
From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 10:10:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Piston Ring Replacement
In-Reply-To: <003e01ca29e7$789fc040$69df40c0$@net>
References: <003e01ca29e7$789fc040$69df40c0$@net>
Message-ID: <8CBF85BE814D481-2B28-B569@webmail-d077.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Art Graves <akgraves at cox.net>










I have a 1976 TR6...replaced the rings and rod bearings.  Before I did this work I could
easily turn the crank (with plugs out) by pushing the car in 4th gear. Now
it is much more difficult, even with the head off.  In fact, by the time new
rings were on the third piston, turning the crank was more difficult....

==AM==
Art, please forgive me for stating the obvious; on the other hand, I've done this myself. Did you make sure
the ring grooves on the pistons were scrupulously clean before installing the new rings? That's the
mistake I once made years ago on a Volvo B-18 engine. :-( Thankfully, I was able to rectify the problem
without ruining anything....

--Andy Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22)

Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Mon Aug 31 09:49:25 2009
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 11:49:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 engine mount bracket
Message-ID: <380-220098131154925593@earthlink.net>

Marty,

I have a decent set. ISTR the brackets are the same both sides, but I know I have a pair anyway. Yours for the cost of shipping.

I had to block hotmail due to spam. Email me directly from another account or call my cell: 540.687.1966. I'm in N.Virginia, if that's local for you.

Cheers, Tom.

Message: 7
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 21:43:09 -0400
From: marty sukey <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Subject: [TR] TR6 engine mount bracket
To: Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W32EC87BDD9C37003E34A25BAF20 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I am making sloooow but sure progress on the TR6 (Now TR250) project. In the
process of test fitting components on the newly rebuilt frame. I am in need of
a drivers side motor mount bracket. Not the mount itself but the bracket that
bolts to the engine block. I destroyed mine in the wreck. Anybody have a spare
in a pile of parts they willing to part with? Rusty is fine.

Thanks,
Marty Sukey


All the war-propaganda, all the screaming and lies and hatred, comes invariably from people who are not fighting. 
George Orwell 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 31 10:54:21 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 09:54:21 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 ball joint installation problems
In-Reply-To: <200908291728.n7THSSlb015905@smtp2.execulink.net>
References: <200908291728.n7THSSlb015905@smtp2.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <6D49B793673F45D193144417402E1F3D@jdnet.deere.com>

> Doesn't seem that the old spline groves help with
> this either.

Might be time to try a trial assembly off of the car, with just the front
arm & no spacer.  Perhaps that will show you where the problem is.  Kind of
sounds like perhaps your new ball joint is not properly made.

Using a press is going to be tricky, as the sides of the ball joint housing
are not at right angles to the shaft.  You could possibly use a (stronger)
standard nut in place of the thin castellated one, but finding one at your
local hardware store might be difficult.  ISTR those are something like 9/16
NF threads.

-- Randall 

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Aug 31 11:39:17 2009
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 13:39:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 idle
In-Reply-To: <20090822140141902.DYBW6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
References: <E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
	<20090822140141902.DYBW6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
Message-ID: <757B663023664B0CB10F56EE4D85668C@DCH6RFC1>

List:

My "older" TR3 restoration (TCF 119L) is pretty standard, in particular
standard cam, ignition and SU carbs. It idles beautifully at around 1000rpm,
but every now and then we have a day (like today) when it stalls at every
traffic light.  The track record is that tomorrow it will be fine again.

I cannot think of any reason for this behavior other than it is, after all,
a TR, but there are much brighter bulbs on this list than me.  So if anyone
has a suggestion, please pass it by me. Thanks !

Andrew

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 31 12:44:51 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 11:44:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 idle
In-Reply-To: <757B663023664B0CB10F56EE4D85668C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1><20090822140141902.DYBW6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<757B663023664B0CB10F56EE4D85668C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <46C49B00701340239617E77958488B6B@jdnet.deere.com>

> My "older" TR3 restoration (TCF 119L) is pretty standard, in particular
> standard cam, ignition and SU carbs. It idles beautifully at around
> 1000rpm,
> but every now and then we have a day (like today) when it stalls at every
> traffic light.  The track record is that tomorrow it will be fine again.

What happens if you try to hold the engine rpm up with your toe?  Tried
going a flat leaner on the cars?  Richer?

Any chance the throttle linkage is binding right at idle, enough to hold one
or both carbs open just slightly most of the time?  I've had the balls
inside the linkage pivots wear oval, such that they bind just at the limits
of travel and cause a similar problem.  Likewise, if the throttle shafts
and/or bushings are worn, they can let the throttle plates drag on the bores
and hence bind lightly just at idle.

Also check that the throttle shaft couplings are tight.  If one was slipping
just a bit sometimes, it could also cause erratic idle rpm.

-- Randall 

From tr4zest at gmail.com  Mon Aug 31 13:05:59 2009
From: tr4zest at gmail.com (Brian Jones)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 15:05:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 idle
In-Reply-To: <757B663023664B0CB10F56EE4D85668C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <E9E9DC670D5546829038D566B7D5B8D3@DCH6RFC1>
	<20090822140141902.DYBW6077@cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com>
	<757B663023664B0CB10F56EE4D85668C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <a38798b30908311205u6eb4ea06yafce55c732fe3297@mail.gmail.com>

No bright bulb here, but in my dim glow (think TR dash illumination) let me
ponder. "Stalling" can have various symptoms that might help guide you. Does
it cut out precipitously or feel like it bogs down and then dies?

Cuts-out precipitously: I'd focus on ignition. If it feels the 4 cylinders
just stop as if the ignition switched off, look for something before the
dizzy cap - Capacitor, rotor, points, king lead, low tension lead, coil.

Bogging down might be due to flooding. But it doesn't seem that is your
issue

Maybe it could be the beginning of the end of the fuel pump's diaphragm?
Check the fuel filter too.

I had trouble with occasional stalling at idle. It turned out to be a
not-quite-perfectly-positioned throttle plate. Most times it stuck
and therefore idled as I'd set it; sometimes it returned to its proper
resting place and dropped the revs so low she stalled before I came to a
stop - probably if I released the throttle quicker than usual. The plate was
only a hair out of place. I caught it by separating the carbs' linkage and
worked one carb's throttle shaft at a time with the engine running until I
got to identify which had caused the issue. Lots of care re-setting the
plate by snapping the shaft against the spring and the plate against its
seat as I tightened up, checking the screws hadn't moved the plate - check
for daylight around the seated plate by looking through the throttle body.
Properly seated, this cured the issue. I now have a steady idle and no
stalling.

Brian



On Mon, Aug 31, 2009 at 1:39 PM, Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at comcast.net>wrote:

> List:
>
> My "older" TR3 restoration (TCF 119L) is pretty standard, in particular
> standard cam, ignition and SU carbs. It idles beautifully at around
> 1000rpm,
> but every now and then we have a day (like today) when it stalls at every
> traffic light.  The track record is that tomorrow it will be fine again.
>
> I cannot think of any reason for this behavior other than it is, after all,
> a TR, but there are much brighter bulbs on this list than me.  So if anyone
> has a suggestion, please pass it by me. Thanks !
>
> Andrew
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From akgraves at cox.net  Mon Aug 31 14:33:11 2009
From: akgraves at cox.net (akgraves at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 16:33:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Piston Ring Replacement
In-Reply-To: <20090831035139.DLAN13166.fed1rmmtai107.cox.net@fed1rmimpi06.cox.net>
Message-ID: <20090831163311.NQDZ1.159910.imail@eastrmwml29>

Thank you all for the good feedback.  Despite a few encouraging replies, the
'negative' replies have me concerned.

Andy, I did clean the piston ring grooves, but not 'scrupulously'.  An ice
pick followed by solvent was used.

Michael/Randall, it's possible a ring came out of position on installation,
but all the pistons entered the cylinder easily.  I did not check the gap of
each ring or even in each cylinder.  But of the ones I did check, the old
rings had a gap of .056 and the new rings had a gap of .012, which I believe
is in spec.  Not sure what to think of the stretched connecting rod theory.
Since the engine is in the car, I would have to remove more stuff to put a
socket on the crank nose.  Like I said, the starter will turn the crank, but
not as easily as before.  I hesitate to turn it a lot since I havenbt added
oil yet - only assembly lube.

Tony, the parts were purchased from a reputable British parts house in the
northwest.  The bearings were stamped 'Std'.

I have already reinstalled the head and oil pan, but I think I'll go back and
check my work.  So I'll disassemble, check the bearing clearance with
plastigage and ensure the end caps are oriented correctly. If that gives no
joy, I'll clean the piston rings properly (with the special tool), check the
ring gap.

Before the new parts were installed, the connecting rod could be easily move
front/rear (side to side) on the crankshaft.  And I 'think' I could still move
the rod side to side with the new bearings, but I didn't check each one.  That
is something I will verify.  There never was any up/down movement of the rod
on the crankshaft.

Thanks again and I'll post updates.

Art Graves
Tulsa, OK
1976 Triumph TR6
1985 Jaguar XJ6


---- Tony Drews <tony at tonydrews.com> wrote:
> That does not sound normal.  I wonder if you got the right size
> bearings...  What you describe is what happens if the bearings are tight.
>
> - Tony Drews

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Mon Aug 31 14:36:48 2009
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Diggle)
Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 08:36:48 +1200
Subject: [TR] TR2/3 ball joint installation problems
Message-ID: <MDEGKJLBNCELPDNOLLOPCECFCAAA.diggle@clear.net.nz>

I bought new Trunnions and had the same problem.
Randal is correct the threads are not quite correct.

They would not screw into the verticle link.
My mechanic friend, very gently, screwed them on with cutting compound of
some sort until they would just screw on.
Obvoiously this gently reshaped the threads. Then cleaned all the compound
off once they screwed on with minimal force.

Jim and the 192 TR4

From wbeech at flash.net  Mon Aug 31 18:20:48 2009
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech at flash.net)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 18:20:48 -0600
Subject: [TR] [Fwd: Intersting article]
In-Reply-To: <4A9AC465.9020806@snet.net>
References: <4A9AC465.9020806@snet.net>
Message-ID: <FEA963607FC44EB08B4BFD44E2477710@bboffice>

John,
Thanks for sharing, I'm sure the Lucas Eclectic car will surpass anything
that Tesla can produce.... Except the garage!

http://www.carlectro.com/node/33


Bill Beecher
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L (On the road in 2009!)
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs


http://www.team.net/archive

From rengrave at verizon.net  Mon Aug 31 18:39:05 2009
From: rengrave at verizon.net (Wayne)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 20:39:05 -0400
Subject: [TR] Starter wire
Message-ID: <6AD974AAF5B342C6B376188385E0514D@RossFamily>

As was installing my starter in my 73 TR6, I connected the heavy battery cable
to the heax nut on the solenoid.
And I connected a thin wire (1/4" spade connection) on the solenoid. I assume
this is from the ignition?
I noticed another wire that was wrapped in the harness along with the thin
spade connection wire I just connected.
This wire was broken off from something (bare wire).
Does anyone know where this wire connects to?
My starter has one male spade connector and the heavy hex nut connection for
the battery.



Wayne
73 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Aug 31 19:02:11 2009
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 18:02:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Starter wire
In-Reply-To: <6AD974AAF5B342C6B376188385E0514D@RossFamily>
References: <6AD974AAF5B342C6B376188385E0514D@RossFamily>
Message-ID: <F9ABD16A8CA44E5395F6AB8FAD64B2F9@jdnet.deere.com>

> I noticed another wire that was wrapped in the harness along with the thin
> spade connection wire I just connected.
> This wire was broken off from something (bare wire).
> Does anyone know where this wire connects to?

I would guess that it's the white/yellow wire that should run from the
starter solenoid to the ignition coil.  It's function is to bypass the
ballast resistor while the engine is cranking, for (theoretically) easier
starting (primarily in cold weather).  If you only drive the car in warm
weather (and I'm right about what it is), you can probably just leave it
disconnected.

> My starter has one male spade connector and the heavy hex nut connection
> for the battery.

Should be a second, smaller male spade, but it sometimes gets broken off or
may be missing from replacement solenoids.

-- Randall 

From elliottr at rmi.net  Mon Aug 31 20:22:21 2009
From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 21:22:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR250 Bonnet
Message-ID: <4A9C855D.6050308@rmi.net>

Hi Everyone,

My wife's TR 250 has strips material - kind of like a waterproof felt - 
under the hood.  One piece goes the the length of the hood, the other 
goes across.  They are between the top of bonnet and structural - 
strengthening pieces. I assume the material is there to help quiet 
rattles and shales of the bonnet. 

The material does not want to stay in place.  So I am wondering, has 
anyone found a suitable material for this and a way to keep it there?  
Does everyone leave it out? Is it even supposed to be there to begin 
with? (It has been there since Pat got the car).

Thanks,
Roger Elliott

From cmusson at verizon.net  Fri Aug 28 16:26:50 2009
From: cmusson at verizon.net (CMusson)
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 2009 18:26:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Dunlop SP50s  SR165-15
Message-ID: <68469FC62E414CAE963F20C790EB1A98@CarlPC>

Does anyone have a used one sitting around still with decent tread?   Or any
ideas where to look for a 'recycled' one?

I have a set on my '3 and I am looking for a matching spare.

Thanks
Carl
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Carl - Tampa
1961 TR3A TS81802LO
Body Off Restoration
Completion Date: NATC 2010
http://mysite.verizon.net/cfmtr3a/

From mrajic at telus.net  Sun Aug 30 16:08:36 2009
From: mrajic at telus.net (mike)
Date: Sun, 30 Aug 2009 15:08:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] FS:  Triumph 1300 Workshop Manual
In-Reply-To: <0016367657c98beeae047262e628@google.com>
References: <0016367657c98beeae047262e628@google.com>
Message-ID: <1D59CB3625EC4FE4A4E1FB994D8F6720@m>

I thought this was sold, but I never heard back from the buyer.  So here it 
is again........Used factory Triumph 1300 Workshop Manual.  It looks to be 
complete and well used.  Most pages are clean and clear, some show grime but 
a perfectly clear.  I have no use for it, so email me if interested and I'll 
email a picture or 2.  Thanks,

Mike