From leejohn7 at gmail.com Wed Apr 1 11:57:09 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 11:57:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 and Mallory Dist Message-ID: I'm at the point of starting up my rebuilt engine in my new TR4, which came with Webers and dual-point Mallory. I downloaded instructions for setting the dwell and they say to set the "primary" points first, those that open first in the engine's revolution. I don't see how to determine which is first - looking down at the dizzy it looks both point sets are at the same relative place on their cams at the same time. How do I tell which is "primary?" . Does it matter? Thanks in advance. More questions to come, I'm sure, as I try to start up and become familiar with the Webers. John Howard 64 TR4 daily runner (almost for sale!) 65 TR4 almost ready From mmoore8425 at aol.com Wed Apr 1 12:17:03 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 12:17:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 and Mallory Dist In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: John My Chrysler uses a dual point distributor. I put a small piece of cardboad in one set of points, set it the specified dwell angle, then move the cardboad over to the second set. I've done it that way since 1964, and it seems pretty reliable. I never worry about primary or secondary. I understand the purpose of dual points on a V8 -because with 8 lobes, the point gap gets small to get the correct dwell angle and its therefore very small gap. With 4 lobes, it never made much sense to me, but racers say it does. Good luck! Mike Moore 59TR3A 62 Chrysler 300H On Apr 1, 2009, at 11:57 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > I'm at the point of starting up my rebuilt engine in my new TR4, which > came with Webers and dual-point Mallory. I downloaded instructions for > setting the dwell and they say to set the "primary" points first, > those that open first in the engine's revolution. I don't see how to > determine which is first - looking down at the dizzy it looks both > point sets are at the same relative place on their cams at the same > time. How do I tell which is "primary?" . Does it matter? > > Thanks in advance. More questions to come, I'm sure, as I try to start > up and become familiar with the Webers. > > John Howard > 64 TR4 daily runner (almost for sale!) > 65 TR4 almost ready > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From leejohn7 at gmail.com Wed Apr 1 13:00:09 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 13:00:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 and Mallory Dist In-Reply-To: References:

Message-ID: Thanks, Mike, for the reassurance. I'l do it your way. John On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 12:17 PM, Michael Moore wrote: > John > My Chrysler uses a dual point distributor. I put a small piece of cardboad > in one set of points, set it the specified dwell angle, then move the > cardboad over to the second set. > I've done it that way since 1964, and it seems pretty reliable. I never > worry about primary or secondary. > I understand the purpose of dual points on a V8 -because with 8 lobes, the > point gap gets small to get the correct dwell angle and its therefore very > small gap. > With 4 lobes, it never made much sense to me, but racers say it does. > Good luck! Mike Moore > 59TR3A > 62 Chrysler 300H > > > On Apr 1, 2009, at 11:57 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > >> I'm at the point of starting up my rebuilt engine in my new TR4, which >> came with Webers and dual-point Mallory. I downloaded instructions for >> setting the dwell and they say to set the "primary" points first, >> those that open first in the engine's revolution. I don't see how to >> determine which is first - looking down at the dizzy it looks both >> point sets are at the same relative place on their cams at the same >> time. How do I tell which is "primary?" . Does it matter? >> >> Thanks in advance. More questions to come, I'm sure, as I try to start >> up and become familiar with the Webers. >> >> John Howard >> 64 TR4 daily runner (almost for sale!) >> 65 TR4 almost ready >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From mmoore8425 at aol.com Wed Apr 1 13:48:02 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 13:48:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 and Mallory Dist In-Reply-To: References:

Message-ID: You will find the combined dwell angle is greater than the two individual dwell angles. So either you need to find Mallory's guide for a TR4 or do some experimenting. Best, MIke Moore On Apr 1, 2009, at 1:00 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > Thanks, Mike, for the reassurance. I'l do it your way. > John > > On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 12:17 PM, Michael Moore > wrote: >> John >> My Chrysler uses a dual point distributor. I put a small piece of >> cardboad >> in one set of points, set it the specified dwell angle, then move the >> cardboad over to the second set. >> I've done it that way since 1964, and it seems pretty reliable. I >> never >> worry about primary or secondary. >> I understand the purpose of dual points on a V8 -because with 8 >> lobes, the >> point gap gets small to get the correct dwell angle and its >> therefore very >> small gap. >> With 4 lobes, it never made much sense to me, but racers say it does. >> Good luck! Mike Moore >> 59TR3A >> 62 Chrysler 300H >> >> >> On Apr 1, 2009, at 11:57 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote: >> >>> I'm at the point of starting up my rebuilt engine in my new TR4, >>> which >>> came with Webers and dual-point Mallory. I downloaded instructions >>> for >>> setting the dwell and they say to set the "primary" points first, >>> those that open first in the engine's revolution. I don't see how to >>> determine which is first - looking down at the dizzy it looks both >>> point sets are at the same relative place on their cams at the same >>> time. How do I tell which is "primary?" . Does it matter? >>> >>> Thanks in advance. More questions to come, I'm sure, as I try to >>> start >>> up and become familiar with the Webers. >>> >>> John Howard >>> 64 TR4 daily runner (almost for sale!) >>> 65 TR4 almost ready >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>> http://www.vtr.org >>> >>> >>> Triumphs at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >>> >>> You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive From mmoore8425 at aol.com Wed Apr 1 13:52:52 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 13:52:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 and Mallory Dist In-Reply-To: References:

Message-ID: <56A05D17-6849-453F-9754-7FD37210A47F@aol.com> Check this out: mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig200.htm Mike Moore On Apr 1, 2009, at 1:00 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > Thanks, Mike, for the reassurance. I'l do it your way. > John > > On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 12:17 PM, Michael Moore > wrote: >> John >> My Chrysler uses a dual point distributor. I put a small piece of >> cardboad >> in one set of points, set it the specified dwell angle, then move the >> cardboad over to the second set. >> I've done it that way since 1964, and it seems pretty reliable. I >> never >> worry about primary or secondary. >> I understand the purpose of dual points on a V8 -because with 8 >> lobes, the >> point gap gets small to get the correct dwell angle and its >> therefore very >> small gap. >> With 4 lobes, it never made much sense to me, but racers say it does. >> Good luck! Mike Moore >> 59TR3A >> 62 Chrysler 300H >> >> >> On Apr 1, 2009, at 11:57 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote: >> >>> I'm at the point of starting up my rebuilt engine in my new TR4, >>> which >>> came with Webers and dual-point Mallory. I downloaded instructions >>> for >>> setting the dwell and they say to set the "primary" points first, >>> those that open first in the engine's revolution. I don't see how to >>> determine which is first - looking down at the dizzy it looks both >>> point sets are at the same relative place on their cams at the same >>> time. How do I tell which is "primary?" . Does it matter? >>> >>> Thanks in advance. More questions to come, I'm sure, as I try to >>> start >>> up and become familiar with the Webers. >>> >>> John Howard >>> 64 TR4 daily runner (almost for sale!) >>> 65 TR4 almost ready >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>> http://www.vtr.org >>> >>> >>> Triumphs at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >>> >>> You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive From leejohn7 at gmail.com Wed Apr 1 14:52:35 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 14:52:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 and Mallory Dist In-Reply-To: <56A05D17-6849-453F-9754-7FD37210A47F@aol.com> References:

<56A05D17-6849-453F-9754-7FD37210A47F@aol.com> Message-ID: Very interesting article. I am still fussing with the adjustment...just finding the screwdriver pivot points took some time. I've got one set adjusted, but when setting the second set i get no reading at all. And no combined reading either. So I continue my tinkering. Thanks for your help. John On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 1:52 PM, Michael Moore wrote: > Check this out: > mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig200.htm > > Mike Moore > On Apr 1, 2009, at 1:00 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > > Thanks, Mike, for the reassurance. I'l do it your way. > John > > On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 12:17 PM, Michael Moore wrote: > > John > > My Chrysler uses a dual point distributor. I put a small piece of cardboad > > in one set of points, set it the specified dwell angle, then move the > > cardboad over to the second set. > > I've done it that way since 1964, and it seems pretty reliable. I never > > worry about primary or secondary. > > I understand the purpose of dual points on a V8 -because with 8 lobes, the > > point gap gets small to get the correct dwell angle and its therefore very > > small gap. > > With 4 lobes, it never made much sense to me, but racers say it does. > > Good luck! Mike Moore > > 59TR3A > > 62 Chrysler 300H > > > On Apr 1, 2009, at 11:57 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > > I'm at the point of starting up my rebuilt engine in my new TR4, which > > came with Webers and dual-point Mallory. I downloaded instructions for > > setting the dwell and they say to set the "primary" points first, > > those that open first in the engine's revolution. I don't see how to > > determine which is first - looking down at the dizzy it looks both > > point sets are at the same relative place on their cams at the same > > time. How do I tell which is "primary?" . Does it matter? > > Thanks in advance. More questions to come, I'm sure, as I try to start > > up and become familiar with the Webers. > > John Howard > > 64 TR4 daily runner (almost for sale!) > > 65 TR4 almost ready > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team..net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > = From mmoore8425 at aol.com Wed Apr 1 14:56:12 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 14:56:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 and Mallory Dist In-Reply-To: References:

<56A05D17-6849-453F-9754-7FD37210A47F@aol.com> Message-ID: <1B130E13-7FE0-4D3A-BA1D-50F8B480CDEA@aol.com> You're more than welcome. I don't know how the Mallory is wired, by my Mopar h as a jumper wire which goes across the points to connect them together. Mike On Apr 1, 2009, at 2:52 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote: > Very interesting article. I am still fussing with the > adjustment...just finding the screwdriver pivot points took some time. > I've got one set adjusted, but when setting the second set i get no > reading at all. And no combined reading either. So I continue my > tinkering. > Thanks for your help. > John > > On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 1:52 PM, Michael Moore > wrote: >> Check this out: >> mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig200.htm >> >> Mike Moore >> On Apr 1, 2009, at 1:00 PM, Lee&John Howard wrote: >> >> Thanks, Mike, for the reassurance. I'l do it your way. >> John >> >> On Wed, Apr 1, 2009 at 12:17 PM, Michael Moore >> wrote: >> >> John >> >> My Chrysler uses a dual point distributor. I put a small piece of >> cardboad >> >> in one set of points, set it the specified dwell angle, then move the >> >> cardboad over to the second set. >> >> I've done it that way since 1964, and it seems pretty reliable. I >> never >> >> worry about primary or secondary. >> >> I understand the purpose of dual points on a V8 -because with 8 >> lobes, the >> >> point gap gets small to get the correct dwell angle and its >> therefore very >> >> small gap. >> >> With 4 lobes, it never made much sense to me, but racers say it does. >> >> Good luck! Mike Moore >> >> 59TR3A >> >> 62 Chrysler 300H >> >> >> On Apr 1, 2009, at 11:57 AM, Lee&John Howard wrote: >> >> I'm at the point of starting up my rebuilt engine in my new TR4, >> which >> >> came with Webers and dual-point Mallory. I downloaded instructions >> for >> >> setting the dwell and they say to set the "primary" points first, >> >> those that open first in the engine's revolution. I don't see how to >> >> determine which is first - looking down at the dizzy it looks both >> >> point sets are at the same relative place on their cams at the same >> >> time. How do I tell which is "primary?" . Does it matter? >> >> Thanks in advance. More questions to come, I'm sure, as I try to >> start >> >> up and become familiar with the Webers. >> >> John Howard >> >> 64 TR4 daily runner (almost for sale!) >> >> 65 TR4 almost ready >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> >> http://autox.team..net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as mmoore8425 at aol.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> >> >> = From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Apr 1 21:03:16 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 00:03:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Upcoming Charity Drive Message-ID: <5D82B2BDA0384176BBD55D55C176E2DF@CarlPC> In just three months John will be underway on his sojourn around North America. If you haven't had a chance - check out his web page about his plans. Many of you are associated with the various Triumph clubs and if you haven't heard already, there will be ways to obtain the drive's RallyBoard so that you have sequential numbering. However, the rallyboard is now available on the memorabilia site. Go to John's web page http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ and on the left side there is a link to "Memorabilia & Regalia". There you can purchase shirts, hats, the rallyboard or even make a donation to the fuel fund. 10,000 miles at 25 mpg = 400 gallons of gas (and about 200 gallons of coffee or soda). The proceeds from these sales will help offset those expenses plus any food, lodging or other incidentals John may incur this summer/fall. It will also show your support for the worthwhile charities that will be benefitting from his endeavor. So, stop by and place an order. Shirts/hats must be ordered by May 15 so that we can get them to you before 'Uncle Jack" arrives in a town near you! Carl From lbc.resto at verizon.net Thu Apr 2 04:59:35 2009 From: lbc.resto at verizon.net (LBC.Resto) Date: Thu, 02 Apr 2009 07:59:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Steering Message-ID: <26A3F4EC6D3842FE8A994581A8948CE5@RAS> So my nice little project to do a narrow belt conversion has taken a sideways turn. As the rad was out I thought that I would take out some play in the inner tie rod ball joints, so out came the rack. I did this 30+ years ago and discovered that I had over shimmed it when the rod broke; most inconvenient when miles from home. So does anyone know: - what the shim procedure is? - what wear points elsewhere in the rack will make the difference between worn and worn out? Thanks -- Ian 62 TR4 From Mark.Evans at Anheuser-Busch.com Thu Apr 2 06:31:31 2009 From: Mark.Evans at Anheuser-Busch.com (Evans, Mark CVB Info Systems) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 09:31:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] T2-6 Stub Axle result Message-ID: Thanks to Tony Drews and Randall for the advice. I managed to get the stub axle off as follows. Since the vertical link was removed from the car for the front suspension overhaul, I couldn't disconnect the ball joint and rock the link to a block of wood. I set up two concrete blocks with lengths of scrap 2x4 along the top. Then placed the vertical link in this "saddle". I replaced the nut on the back side of the stub axle and gave about 8 good whacks with a sledge hammer. Didn't budge. I then took a propane torch to the assembly for about 4 minutes. I melted a candle into the backside of the now very hot stub axle (Dave Connitt method). I figured that it couldn't hurt anything. On the second whack with the sledge, it popped out with a nice ringing noise. The BFH wins again. Mark A. Evans 1966 TR4A IRS CTC63970 LO Acworth, Georgia - USA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------- Anheuser-Busch InBev Email Disclaimer www.ab-inbev.com From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Apr 2 10:52:36 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 13:52:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Paging Ted Liberti Message-ID: Anyone have any visibility to Ted Liberti in Pennsyvania? Thanks, Joe Alexander n197tr4 at cs.com From triumph66 at gmail.com Thu Apr 2 12:46:02 2009 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 15:46:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paging Ted Liberti In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Last I heard Joe, he was chasing Eric Dash down to get him to commit to a weekend! See peer to peer emails. Ted L. On Thu, Apr 2, 2009 at 1:52 PM, wrote: > Anyone have any visibility to Ted Liberti in Pennsyvania? > > Thanks, > > Joe Alexander n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as triumph66 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From leejohn7 at gmail.com Thu Apr 2 16:58:09 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 16:58:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4/Mallory/Webers-Amazing! Message-ID: Today may have been the highpoint of my almost 30 years of Triumph-hood. After a few tries squirting starting fluid down the Webers throats, the engine caught and settled down to a very smooth idle at 800rpms! Amazing. The engine came with Webers and the dual point Mallory, both of which are new to me so i was careful not to mess with them although I did check and adjust the dwell. The last time I did this, on my other car some 12 years ago, it took me days and repeated help from this list to get going. Now to make it road worthy and road safe. Had to share this with those who have been there. John Howard TR4 daily runner TR4 future runner From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Apr 3 05:09:19 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 12:09:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1355349877.3444041238760559631.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Have always used Craftsman sockets and ratchets, screwdrivers, pliers, and so on.B Never liked their electric power tools or chainsaws.B But now I'm into my second 3/8ths ratchet with a switch lever that can't seem to work in swapping back and forth from clockwise to counterclockwise.B Anybody have luck with a different brand of tool that has the quality that I'm coming to believe Craftsman only used to have? ...Or am I just unlucky with ratchets here.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net Fri Apr 3 05:51:13 2009 From: fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net (fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 12:51:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <764514168.3673561238762621059.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <2115256092.3677251238763073533.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> They're a little pricey compared to Craf tsman, but SK Tools makes great stuff.B You can usually find some on ebay and a friend of mine swears by Eppy's Tools (eppys.com) (NFI).B My local Sears also has some SK stuff but I don't know about ratchets. Tom FitzGibbon NASS 425 '67 Spit Mk II Fanwood, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: terryrs at comcast.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 8:09:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [TR] Wrenches Have always used Craftsman sockets and ratchets, screwdrivers, pliers, and so on.B B Never liked their electric power tools or chainsaws.B But now I'm into my second 3/8ths ratchet with a switch lever that can't seem to work in swapping back and forth from clockwise to counterclockwise.B Anybody have luck with a different brand of tool that has the quality that I'm coming to believe Craftsman only used to have? ...Or am I just unlucky with ratchets here.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Apr 3 06:05:26 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 09:05:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <2115256092.3677251238763073533.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <764514168.3673561238762621059.JavaMail.root@sz0060a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <49D5D156.3611.135AF491@localhost> On 3 Apr 2009 at 12:51, fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net wrote: > They're a little pricey compared to Craftsman, but SK Tools makes > great stuff... My local Sears also has some SK stuff but I > don't know about ratchets. Back when I first started wrenching and knew little about tools I purchased an SK socket and ratchet set from a local performance- oriented "foreign autoparts" store run by a member of the local sports car club. The ratchet doesn't have the push-button release like Craftsman, that being a patented feature, but otherwise it has served me well for 36 years. None of the sockets has broken. (Of course, they were metric, since I was driving a Fiat at the time, and as everyone knows, metric sockets are entirely different.) I have experienced Craftsman socket failure and known other people who have too, even decades ago. That's only one data point, which is to say one datum. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From kentshrack at yahoo.com Fri Apr 3 06:26:51 2009 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 06:26:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: <613083.93253.qm@web57801.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I bought an SK ratchet about 25 years ago, 3/8" drive, flex head, bent handle. I used it so much it was like an extension of my hand. A couple of years ago, someone took all of my Mechanic tools and alot of my Power tools from my garage. I bought a Craftsman box of tools. I need to buy another SK ratchet to match the one the sorry SOB took. I only hope that he cuts both his hands off with "my" circular saw. Oh, did that sound harsh? I hope it cuts down at least one of his legs too. I don't like thieves. ANYWAY, The SK ratchet is the best I've ever used. I've used SK tools since I was a kid on the farm...GREAT tools. (thanks for the vent) Kent Shrack - Lawrence, KS TR3a, 1960 Right Hand Drive, TS78586 o From tcheat2002 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 3 07:25:41 2009 From: tcheat2002 at yahoo.com (Tim Cheatham) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 07:25:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: <830888.34992.qm@web30608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I like the SK ratchets (Snap On, too) but my favorites are Craftsman round head, fine tooth ratchets. These aren't the ones you usually see in the stores, but are available online. I've taken mine apart and applied a bit of Permatex engine assembly lube to them. It really makes them operate smoothly. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 3, 2009, at 7:51 AM, fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net wrote: They're a little pricey compared to Craf tsman, but SK Tools makes great stuff.B You can usually find some on ebay and a friend of mine swears by Eppy's Tools (eppys.com) (NFI).B My local Sears also has some SK stuff but I don't know about ratchets. Tom FitzGibbon NASS 425 '67 Spit Mk II Fanwood, NJ ----- Original Message ----- From: terryrs at comcast.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 8:09:19 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: [TR] Wrenches Have always used Craftsman sockets and ratchets, screwdrivers, pliers, and so on.B B Never liked their electric power tools or chainsaws.B But now I'm into my second 3/8ths ratchet with a switch lever that can't seem to work in swapping back and forth from clockwise to counterclockwise.B Anybody have luck with a different brand of tool that has the quality that I'm coming to believe Craftsman only used to have? ...Or am I just unlucky with ratchets here.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as fitzgibbon3 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tcheat2002 at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Fri Apr 3 07:43:31 2009 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 08:43:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] Keith Bryson Memorial Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB1A1D24@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Good morning- I realize we are spead all over the Nation(s), but I thought I'd let everyone know Keith Bryson's Memorial Service is tomorrow in Bowling Green, Ky at 2 pm at Hillview Heights Church. Many of his british car friends are arriving in our cars. My TR250 is almost identical to Keith's except for the color of the interior. Keith had a variety of interests including wood boats, planes and scuba diving. He was widely recognized as an early innovator of laser surgery in this area. So, tomorrow as you enjoy your Saturday in your garage or wherever you might be, think of Keith in the afternoon while we remember him in his hometown. Below is the link to Keith's obituary. http://www.bgdailynews.com/articles/2009/04/01/obituaries/obit-bryson.tx t Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Apr 3 07:53:38 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 10:53:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <830888.34992.qm@web30608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <830888.34992.qm@web30608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CB82831AF2372D-920-248@WEBMAIL-MY05.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Tim Cheatham I like the SK ratchets (Snap On, too) but my favorites are Craftsman round head, fine tooth ratchets. These aren't the ones you usually see in the stores, but are available online. I've taken mine apart and applied a bit of Permatex engine assembly lube to them. It really makes them operate smoothly. ==AM== I'll second that recommendation! I've had my Craftsman 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive ratchets in that style for almost 40 years now, and without any problems. My 1/2" ratchet of the same style was that old, but it disappeared mysteriously when my kids were very young (I expect that I'll find it someday buried under the pine tree where they used to play and dig). I replaced it with the same style, which was when I discovered that they were now available only through the catalog and not usually in the retail stores. I've used them as hammers and have put 5' lengths of pipe over the end for leverage, and I've yet to break one! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Apr 3 14:19:04 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 21:19:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Ammeter In-Reply-To: <872120589.2825631238777739571.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <625123897.3715351238793544204.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Am swapping out my TR3A ammeter for a modern style voltmeter.B Looking at the wiring diagram, the only thing the ammeter does is measure amp flow.B So if I don't want to measure it, it lookes like I can just remove the gauge and connect the two wires directlyB together.B Am I missing something? Sorry to ask, but couldn't get into archives for some reason using the link at the bottom of the e-mails. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 3 17:29:43 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 17:29:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Ammeter In-Reply-To: <625123897.3715351238793544204.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090404002943.SKWN22375.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Looking at the wiring diagram, the only thing the ammeter > does is measure amp flow.B So if I don't want to measure it, > it lookes like I can just remove the gauge and connect the > two wires directlyB together.B Am I missing something? Nope, that's all that is required. You could even eliminate those two wires running under the dash, and run a new wire from the 'A' terminal on the regulator over to the starter solenoid. Gonna replace the oil pressure gauge with a modern style idiot light, too? Randall From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Fri Apr 3 09:26:50 2009 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 11:26:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fan Adapter Kits TRF vs. Moss Message-ID: <49d638ca.191.413c.27583@cogeco.ca> Hi Listers, I'm looking at putting on a TR7 fan to eliminate the out-of-balance vibration and general shabbyness of my 4 blade unit (since I can't buy a new 4 blade one apparently). Moss has an adapter kit for $129 (pn 837-525), TRFs is $12 (see page 8) http://www.zeni.net/trf/specials6.12/8.php I'm guessing there's a difference?! ;) Any experience out there? Thanks, Art. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 3 09:31:29 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 09:31:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <8CB82831AF2372D-920-248@WEBMAIL-MY05.sysops.aol.com> References: <830888.34992.qm@web30608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8CB82831AF2372D-920-248@WEBMAIL-MY05.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <016d01c9b479$a4d58930$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > ==AM== > I replaced it > with the same style, which > was when I discovered that they were now available only through the > catalog and not usually in the retail stores. So, was the replacement you received comparable to the old one? I've not tried the fine tooth ratchets, but every time I've replaced an old Craftsman tool with a new one, I've noticed that the new one isn't as nice. Even the "thin wall" sockets are thicker than they used to be, so are ratchet heads. The handles have more sharp edges to hurt your hands and overall they generally weigh more (which can be a factor if you are working overhead in an awkward position). -- Randall From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Fri Apr 3 09:55:39 2009 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 16:55:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <1355349877.3444041238760559631.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <872120589.2825631238777739571.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Better unlucky in ratchets than in.... I recently bought a 3/8" ratchet at Harbour Freight, of all places, that has a swivel head. I've been giving it a pretty good workout on my truck with no problems. I like it so much I went back and got 1/4" to match. It may not hold up like my Snap-on (Waaay too expensive, but I won it in a raffle) or even the Craftsman I've had for 50 years, but at the price, I can replace it many times to make up the difference. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: terryrs at comcast.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 5:09:19 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific Subject: [TR] Wrenches Have always used Craftsman sockets and ratchets, screwdrivers, pliers, and so on.B B Never liked their electric power tools or chainsaws.B But now I'm into my second 3/8ths ratchet with a switch lever that can't seem to work in swapping back and forth from clockwise to counterclockwise.B Anybody have luck with a different brand of tool that has the quality that I'm coming to believe Craftsman only used to have? ...Or am I just unlucky with ratchets here.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Apr 3 20:01:19 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 23:01:19 EDT Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: In a message dated 4/3/2009 10:29:18 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: So, was the replacement you received comparable to the old one? I've not tried the fine tooth ratchets, but every time I've replaced an old Craftsman tool with a new one, I've noticed that the new one isn't as nice. Even the "thin wall" sockets are thicker than they used to be, so are ratchet heads. The handles have more sharp edges to hurt your hands and overall they generally weigh more (which can be a factor if you are working overhead in an awkward position). ==AM== I think I remember reading on this list some time ago that Sears had changed manufacturers for their tools. I'm pretty sure my "replacement" was before that happened, since it was identical to (what I remember of) the old one. I know what you're saying though, as some of the newer Craftsman tools I've bought didn't seem as "nice" as the old ones. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Apr 3 20:04:01 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 23:04:01 EDT Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: In a message dated 4/3/2009 8:02:12 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ZoboH erald at aol.com writes: So, was the replacement you received comparable to the old one? I've not tried the fine tooth ratchets, but every time I've replaced an old Craftsman tool with a new one, I've noticed that the new one isn't as nice. Even the "thin wall" sockets are thicker than they used to be, so are ratchet heads. The handles have more sharp edges to hurt your hands and overall they generally weigh more (which can be a factor if you are working overhead in an awkward position). I was just noticing that the Craftsman fully chromed roundhead fine tooth ratchets are also the CHEAPEST in cost at ca $15! I do have one and I like it also. Mike Moore From FordneyNJ at aol.com Fri Apr 3 21:07:25 2009 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 00:07:25 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 7 Air rail Message-ID: I am removing the air pump and air rail from my TR 7. Does any one out there know a source for the plugs that fill the holes in the head? I've had craftsman sockets break, about one a year. SK tools last much longer. Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 06536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sat Apr 4 04:43:15 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 07:43:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Cylinder Message-ID: When installing the rear wheel cylinder (Girling brake) for a '59 TR3A, do you use the distance washer or not? I had a cylinder blow on me and had the spacer installed (no connection to the blow). What got me thinking with the replacement is that without the spacer, the cylinder slides fairly easily and with the spacer, it is very tight. The manuals make no mention of the spacer. TIA Scott Suhring '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Apr 4 04:45:36 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 11:45:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Ammeter In-Reply-To: <20090404002943.SKWN22375.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <1823145571.3839191238845536573.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Gonna replace the oil pressure gauge with a modern style idiot light, too? Dear me NO.B And I resent that insinuation, Randall that I am a modern style idiot when all who know me can testify I am decidedly an OLD style idiot! Thanks for the help Terry (It'll actually be a SunPro mechanical oil gauge) From pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net Sat Apr 4 05:23:08 2009 From: pdqtr6 at suscom-maine.net (Tom Walling & Wendy Rose) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 08:23:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fan Adapter Kits TRF vs. Moss In-Reply-To: <49d638ca.191.413c.27583@cogeco.ca> References: <49d638ca.191.413c.27583@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <01A4F6B5E9604BD3BF215B90B566D85B@TomandWendyPC> The Moss kit at $129 is a new hub extension piece that has been modified to move the fan back away from the radiator. The 6 bladed fan is much thicker than the 4 blade metal fan and thus has clearance issues. The kit from TRF consists only of the bolts, washers and rubber bushings to mount the fan to the hub (it is included with the Moss extension piece). I think that most owners mount the fan backwards on the original hub to increase the clearance without spending $129, but the Moss parts are the more elegant solution. > > Moss has an adapter kit for $129 (pn 837-525), > TRFs is $12 (see page 8) http://www.zeni.net/trf/specials6.12/8.php > > I'm guessing there's a difference?! ;) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 4 06:07:55 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 06:07:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Cylinder In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090404130755.WTE22375.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > When installing the rear wheel cylinder (Girling brake) for a > '59 TR3A, do you use the distance washer or not? What "distance washer" is that, Scott? One of the 3 pieces that hold the cylinder to the back plate is called a "distance piece". But it's a U-shaped piece of flat metal, not what I would call a washer. If it's not mentioned in the manuals, where is it mentioned; or where did you get it? > What got me thinking with the > replacement is that without the spacer, the cylinder slides > fairly easily and with the spacer, it is very tight. I believe it is supposed to be quite tight on the backplate, too tight to slide by hand. At least mine have always been that way, and they seem to work well. I would guess that the cylinder is supposed to move only under fairly high force, so that it deflects somewhat when the brakes are applied and then springs back just a bit, so the trailing shoe doesn't drag all the time. Randall From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Apr 4 08:07:55 2009 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 11:07:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <016d01c9b479$a4d58930$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <830888.34992.qm@web30608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8CB82831AF2372D-920-248@WEBMAIL-MY05.sysops.aol.com> <016d01c9b479$a4d58930$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > The handles have more sharp edges to hurt your hands The handle edges are made sharp on purpose, Randall. This is done to prevent you from over-torquing the nut. You will stop tightening because of hand pain when the proper torque is achieved. John H. From mmoore8425 at aol.com Sat Apr 4 08:13:12 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 08:13:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: References: <830888.34992.qm@web30608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8CB82831AF2372D-920-248@WEBMAIL-MY05.sysops.aol.com> <016d01c9b479$a4d58930$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <9FDB1323-1BBE-4C34-891D-D866DDD8AC46@aol.com> Part of the life-time warranty strategy-it protects the ratchet! Mike Moore On Apr 4, 2009, at 8:07 AM, John Herrera wrote: >> The handles have more sharp edges to hurt your hands > > > > The handle edges are made sharp on purpose, Randall. > > > > This is done to prevent you from over-torquing the nut. You will stop > tightening because of hand pain when the proper torque is achieved. > > > > John H. From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Apr 4 08:55:58 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 11:55:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <9FDB1323-1BBE-4C34-891D-D866DDD8AC46@aol.com> References: Message-ID: <49D74ACE.7202.7BC4A1@localhost> On 4 Apr 2009 at 8:13, Michael Moore wrote: > Part of the life-time warranty strategy-it protects the ratchet! > >> The handles have more sharp edges to hurt your hands > > > > The handle edges are made sharp on purpose, Randall. > > > > This is done to prevent you from over-torquing the nut. You will stop > > tightening because of hand pain when the proper torque is achieved. Also a skill-development mechanism. Only those users whose hands have developed sufficient numbness from extensive pracyice are allowed to take full advantage of the tool's capabilities. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Apr 4 10:15:48 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 13:15:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches References: <49D74ACE.7202.7BC4A1@localhost> Message-ID: <5616563910C141A894C7E89D959AFD69@D1TG6Y71> I really surprised that no one has spoken up for Harbor Freight wrenches ... during the period that my teenage kids were loosing my tools faster than I could afford to replace them, HF was my solution: cheap enough that I didn't mind the odd breakage. The impact sockets do seem to be very good, but the regular ones will give up every once in a while. The ratchets are torque limited - they break before the bolt, unless it is the most inaccessible bolt in Christendom, and then they work perfectly. The rubberized screwdrivers are a particular specialty; they never damage a stubborn screw before they fail! I must admit to a love-hate relationship with HF ... some things are so cheap and quite good (the small DVM for $1.99 is as accurate as my Fluke for the ranges it offers), but others are crap (the needle scaler that will run for 10 minutes before giving up the ghost) ... sometimes, you do get what you pay for! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:55 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Wrenches > On 4 Apr 2009 at 8:13, Michael Moore wrote: From mmoore8425 at aol.com Sat Apr 4 10:26:06 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 10:26:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <5616563910C141A894C7E89D959AFD69@D1TG6Y71> References: <49D74ACE.7202.7BC4A1@localhost> <5616563910C141A894C7E89D959AFD69@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <736F316E-49FE-44FE-B4FA-E4AED9C9A096@aol.com> I can't speak about Harbor Freight, but here's MY story: In 1985, with my Mobil credit card came an offer for a fitted tool case full of life time guaranteed tools for $175, payable interest-free over 6 months.I bought and kept it in the trunk of my show car as we were driving from LA to Victoria and Portland for Chrysler shows. (The tools were all Chinese.) I once had a serious valve problem on the road back from Victoria. I contacted a friend in Portland who allowed us to stay with him. We put the car in his backyard. My wife and I removed the intake manifold and both heads and had hardened valve seats installed. We did it all with those Chinese tools. The only tool I borrowed from him was his torque wrench. I imagine those were HF-like tools. Mike Moore 59 TR3A 62 Chrysler 300H On Apr 4, 2009, at 10:15 AM, Tony Gordon wrote: > I really surprised that no one has spoken up for Harbor Freight > wrenches ... during the period that my teenage kids were loosing my > tools faster than I could afford to replace them, HF was my > solution: cheap enough that I didn't mind the odd breakage. The > impact sockets do seem to be very good, but the regular ones will > give up every once in a while. The ratchets are torque limited - > they break before the bolt, unless it is the most inaccessible bolt > in Christendom, and then they work perfectly. The rubberized > screwdrivers are a particular specialty; they never damage a > stubborn screw before they fail! > > I must admit to a love-hate relationship with HF ... some things are > so cheap and quite good (the small DVM for $1.99 is as accurate as > my Fluke for the ranges it offers), but others are crap (the needle > scaler that will run for 10 minutes before giving up the ghost) ... > sometimes, you do get what you pay for! From Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net Sat Apr 4 11:07:02 2009 From: Oldpine47 at Frontiernet.net (Frederick M Light) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 14:07:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Handbrake Message-ID: <440E324890A6457681C74315D485351A@FrederickLight> Can anyone tell me where I can get some info on repairing the handbrake lever. I cannot figure how to get the button off the lever to replace the spring. I need to take mine apart to have it rechromed. I would prefer to buy a new one, but none of the big three has them available in their catalogs TIA Fred TS 57038 From jmitch at snet.net Sat Apr 4 12:17:01 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 15:17:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stag Wiring harness Message-ID: <49D7B22D.5040002@snet.net> I noticed that Rimmers does not list a wiring harness for federal stags with AC. Is anyone out there making new ones? And along the same line does anyone make pre-bent brake and/or fuel lines for Stags? Also, what are most people doing to rehabilitate their wood dash panels. I tried Randy at prestige and he doesn't make them. Thanks in advance. John Mitchell 72 Stag Federal 76 TR6 From trglory at verizon.net Sat Apr 4 12:41:16 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 15:41:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stag Wiring harness In-Reply-To: <49D7B22D.5040002@snet.net> Message-ID: <446075E755AD4565A7DD52FFF31C7892@newbox> John; I don't know if they have them, but it's worth a shot to call British Wiring at 1-866-461-9050. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 3:17 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Stag Digest Subject: [TR] Stag Wiring harness I noticed that Rimmers does not list a wiring harness for federal stags with AC. Is anyone out there making new ones? And along the same line does anyone make pre-bent brake and/or fuel lines for Stags? Also, what are most people doing to rehabilitate their wood dash panels. I tried Randy at prestige and he doesn't make them. Thanks in advance. John Mitchell 72 Stag Federal 76 TR6 From jmitch at snet.net Sat Apr 4 12:55:18 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 15:55:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stag Wiring harness In-Reply-To: <446075E755AD4565A7DD52FFF31C7892@newbox> References: <446075E755AD4565A7DD52FFF31C7892@newbox> Message-ID: <49D7BB25.7060007@snet.net> There website doesn't list stag, but its worth a phone call. Thanks Joe Laurito wrote: > John; > > I don't know if they have them, but it's worth a shot to call British Wiring > at 1-866-461-9050. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell > Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 3:17 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Stag Digest > Subject: [TR] Stag Wiring harness > > I noticed that Rimmers does not list a wiring harness for federal > stags with AC. Is anyone out there making new ones? And along the > same line does anyone make pre-bent brake and/or fuel lines for Stags? > Also, what are most people doing to rehabilitate their wood dash > panels. I tried Randy at prestige and he doesn't make them. Thanks in > advance. John Mitchell 72 Stag Federal 76 TR6 From moira.secrest at verizon.net Sat Apr 4 13:06:30 2009 From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M. Secrest) Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 16:06:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Z-Stromberg Advance Message-ID: <8E2116F05AFD485189E876A08E9AE900@4NutballsPC> What do people do with the GT6-3 Zenith Stromberg vacuum advance inlet, when the *cough* emission control systems are disabled and the timing is already advanced ~15 degrees? Should it be plugged, left open, or other? -- Martin Secrest 73 GT6 72 TR6 Arlington, VA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 4 13:31:22 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 13:31:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Z-Stromberg Advance In-Reply-To: <8E2116F05AFD485189E876A08E9AE900@4NutballsPC> Message-ID: <20090404203123.JUYP22375.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > What do people do with the GT6-3 Zenith Stromberg vacuum > advance inlet, when the *cough* emission control systems are > disabled and the timing is already advanced ~15 degrees? If it's really an advance port, then I'd still hook it up. Vacuum advance helps improve fuel mileage. > Should it be plugged, left open, or other? If you're not going to use it, IMO you should plug it. Otherwise you'll have a vacuum leak that will mess up the mixture. A retard port will leak at idle, an advance port will leak off-idle. Randall From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Sat Apr 4 15:05:04 2009 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 18:05:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: I have a mish- mash of hand tools. Worth noting is that Craftsman tools are no longer covered by a "lifetime" warranty. A friend used to do info tech for a company that manufactured sears tools. His company would regularly win and then lose out on the low bid contracts. The Home Depot house brand is supposed to be lifetime warrantee. Sometimes they are on sale and seem to be of decent quality. YMMV, no direct financial interest. Good day. Arnold From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 4 15:06:32 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 17:06:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] i believe there are 2 TR's in this clip References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <16E4B67EC60A41E4BBEF7CFA6694C565@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <002a01c9b571$af1dd6b0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> http://www.youtube.com:80/watch?v=PN_oDdGmKyA&feature From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 4 15:14:03 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 15:14:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090404221404.BIGE28081.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Worth noting is that > Craftsman tools are no longer covered by a "lifetime" > warranty. Really? Still says "Guaranteed forever" on the web site: http://tinyurl.com/dmlkjz Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Apr 4 15:24:47 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 15:24:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <20090404221404.BIGE28081.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20090404221404.BIGE28081.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904041524y60a71e8ax8168baa9f0d89d46@mail.gmail.com> And I still make my annual trek to Sears with my bent, knarled or welded (%*$@# battery post!) screwdrivers to exchange for new ones. On Sat, Apr 4, 2009 at 3:14 PM, Randall wrote: > > Worth noting is that > > Craftsman tools are no longer covered by a "lifetime" > > warranty. > > Really? > > Still says "Guaranteed forever" on the web site: > http://tinyurl.com/dmlkjz From DLylis at aol.com Sat Apr 4 15:54:52 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 18:54:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke Message-ID: The other night as I was driving the TR3A home from a car club meeting I noticed that my ignition warning light was on full. I only live a few minutes away so I went home. I checked it out as best I could (not my strong suit) but could find nothing obviously wrong. The next morning I drove it over to our local generator/alternator/starter guy and he hooked it all up and said the generator is fine and the voltage regulator needs to be replaced. He took off the cover and showed me that the coil contact at the D terminals was not closing and he pushed it with his finger and it made contact and the light went out and the ammeter went into a charge situation until it settled at 0 again. He said to shut it off and the contact opened again. Normal. I ordered a new voltage regulator and installed it and at idle the contacts remained open but when I reved it the contact would "flutter" and not stay closed. I drove the car and the light stayed on so I returned home. With the motor running I opened the regulator and closed the contact and it behaved fine. I shut it off, checked out connections, started it again, red light on, closed the contact, but this time the yellow wire from the D terminal to the ignition warning light smoked and melted. I have pulled out the warning light and the white wire from the warning light to the ignition switch is fine. The only damaged wire is the yellow and it does not appear to have damaged any other wire in the harness, but I need to open it and look more closely. Any input on what happened? There is no question that the regulator is connected correctly. This was marked, checked, and double checked. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From roggez at bigpond.net.au Sat Apr 4 17:10:59 2009 From: roggez at bigpond.net.au (David Rogers) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 10:10:59 +1000 Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: When I was living in DC in the mid-80s, I splurged and bought a whole kit of Craftsman tools, both metric and imperial as we had gone metric in 1975. Sears then gave a "Lifetime Guarantee" on all Craftsman tools. I have use them for nearly 25 years without any trouble apart from cracking one socket, when I think I overdid the torque. On one of my infrequent visits to the US, I took the broken socket back about four years later and went to the local Sears in the Ala Moana Centre in Honolulu. They exchanged the socket free of charge without any fuss and in so doing confirmed my faith in the brand and it's warranty. I know not whether the same applies today but I think my set will see me out! Most of the cheap stuff we get in our market is like some have said, it lasts a few years if you are lucky. I would agree that Snap-On is one of the better brands but you have to pay for the quality. Dave Canberra, Australia From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sat Apr 4 17:57:08 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 20:57:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Cylinder Message-ID: <1C72930A0F8B476B9C9630F6DE354C55@Scott> Randal: I did not get your email, but a friend on the list sent me a comment. I am pasting it below. Moss catalog has it listed as part #45 on page 58, and shows it as NA. It is called a "Distance Washer" but as you noted, it does not resemble a washer, but rather a "U" shaped piece of metal. The repair manual's instructions for removal and refitting the cylinder do not mention this piece, only the spring plate and the locking plate. As you noted, if I do not fit the spring washer, there is plenty of play to allow the cylinder to mover easily by hand, but with the spring washer on, it is tight and will not move by hand. I guess what you are saying is I should use the "washer". Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 > When installing the rear wheel cylinder (Girling brake) for a > '59 TR3A, do you use the distance washer or not? What "distance washer" is that, Scott? One of the 3 pieces that hold the cylinder to the back plate is called a "distance piece". But it's a U-shaped piece of flat metal, not what I would call a washer. If it's not mentioned in the manuals, where is it mentioned; or where did you get it? > What got me thinking with the > replacement is that without the spacer, the cylinder slides fairly > easily and with the spacer, it is very tight. I believe it is supposed to be quite tight on the backplate, too tight to slide by hand. At least mine have always been that way, and they seem to work well. I would guess that the cylinder is supposed to move only under fairly high force, so that it deflects somewhat when the brakes are applied and then springs back just a bit, so the trailing shoe doesn't drag all the time. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Apr 4 18:19:27 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 21:19:27 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke Message-ID: It appears I am (somewhat of) a lucky guy. I have opened the harness and there is no collateral damage from the melted yellow wire. I believe that the issue is that the ignition warning bulb requires a ground to work but the wire should not be grounded and I think that is what happened. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 4 20:38:52 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 20:38:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Cylinder In-Reply-To: <1C72930A0F8B476B9C9630F6DE354C55@Scott> Message-ID: <20090405033853.TKAY1944.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Scott wrote: > Moss catalog has it listed as part #45 on page 58, and shows it as NA. Note that the distance piece is included in 582-225 "Fitting kit", which is available. > The repair manual's instructions for removal and refitting the cylinder > do not mention this piece Here's what page R5 of the TR3 supplement in the factory workshop manual (page 449 of the Bentley reprint) has to say on the subject : >>> Refitting the Rear Wheel Cylinder Mount the wheel cylinder on to the backplate with the neck through the large slot. Replace the *distance piece* between cylinder neck and backplate, with the open end away from handbrake lever location. The two cranked lips must also be away from the backplate. Insert the spring plate between the distance piece and backplate, also with open end away from handbrake lever location and the two cranked lips away from the backplate. Replace handbrake lever. Locate the retaining plate between the distance piece and spring plate (open end towards the handbrake lever), tap into position until the two cranked tips of the spring plate locate in the retaining plate. <<< Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Apr 5 08:36:38 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 10:36:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: In a message dated 4/4/2009 5:05:25 PM Central Daylight Time, gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu writes: > I have a mish- mash of hand tools. Worth noting is that Craftsman tools > are no > longer covered by a "lifetime" warranty. A friend used to do info tech > for a company > that manufactured sears tools. His company would regularly win and then > lose > out on the low bid contracts. The Home Depot house brand is supposed to > be > lifetime warrantee. Sometimes they are on sale and seem to be of decent > quality. > Ace Hardware also offers lifetime warranties on ratchets. The 1/4 Ace ratchet I bought works and feels quite nice. Warning: They are not competing with HF on price. Dave From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Sun Apr 5 09:23:17 2009 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 11:23:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: I may well be wrong on Sears warranty of wrenches. Their guarantee was not honored on a craftsman hand tool recently. I forget what it was, and decided against giving them more business. Your experience may differ. Arnold From fishplate at charter.net Sun Apr 5 09:51:31 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 11:51:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: At 11:23 AM 4/5/2009, you wrote: >I may well be wrong on Sears warranty of wrenches. Their guarantee >was not honored on a craftsman hand tool recently. I forget what it was, >and decided against giving them more business. Your experience may >differ. As recently as last year, I took a Craftsman torque wrench manufactured in 1975 back to Sears and obtained a replacement, complete with smile and helpful attitude. In 35 years of using Craftsman tools professionally, I've never been denied a replacement. I suspect that, for some reason, your case was an anomaly. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From mmoore8425 at aol.com Sun Apr 5 10:41:21 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 09:41:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004D7967-DC1F-447D-84E0-AB8DAB81CDC4@aol.com> On Apr 5, 2009, at 8:51 AM, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > At 11:23 AM 4/5/2009, you wrote: >> I may well be wrong on Sears warranty of wrenches. Their guarantee >> was not honored on a craftsman hand tool recently. I forget what >> it was, >> and decided against giving them more business. Your experience may >> differ. > > As recently as last year, I took a Craftsman torque wrench > manufactured in 1975 back to Sears and obtained a replacement, > complete with smile and helpful attitude. In 35 years of using > Craftsman tools professionally, I've never been denied a replacement. > > I suspect that, for some reason, your case was an anomaly. There is a lot of infoon Google about this. My impresssion is tha some TA's (Tool Associates) are zealots. If the tool has any rust, even though the socket is broken, a warranty replacement is denied etc. It looks like its as bad as medical insurance! (pre-existing condition etc.) It also looks like if the TA decides the tool has been abused, they won't replace it. I googled "Sears Craftsman Tools lifetime warranty". A lot of stuff I didn't know.I doubt if I'll but sears any more. Mike Moore From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sun Apr 5 12:00:07 2009 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 14:00:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: In a message dated 4/5/09 11:24:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu writes: << Their guarantee was not honored on a craftsman hand tool recently. I forget what it was, and decided against giving them more business. Your experience may differ. Arnold >> I found this quote on another site: " Some companies always have good service. Some companies give poor service frequently. Some customers always have problems no matter where they go. Avoid taking their word for anything. " Vague accusations are a no win situation for any company. Was the guarantee not honored because the tool never had a warranty, did they decline because of obvious misuse or was the sales person not knowledgeable of the product? Not all Sears tools carry a lifetime warranty, the Companion line doesn't. Provide some actual details and I'll listen. Harold From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Apr 5 12:15:52 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 14:15:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: In a message dated 4/5/2009 11:03:27 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ZinkZ10C at aol.com writes: Not all Sears tools carry a lifetime warranty, the Companion line doesn't. Provide some actual details and I'll listen. Harold I too have been a long time supporter of Sears because of the life time warranty UNTIL, bevcause of tjhis thread, I googled "Sears Craftsman tool life time warranty". There are plenty of specifics there, some coming from former employees.The most common complaints are exchange refused because if rust. Your socket may have cracked, and been rust already, but rust cancels the warranty.period. Also, if the Tool Associate believe the tool has been abused, fuggedaboutit. Mike Moore From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Apr 5 14:44:59 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 16:44:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Cylinder In-Reply-To: <20090405033853.TKAY1944.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <1C72930A0F8B476B9C9630F6DE354C55@Scott> <20090405033853.TKAY1944.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Thanks Randall. I forget about the supplement many times. Question solved. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 T3 -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:39 PM To: 'Scott Suhring'; 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Cylinder Scott wrote: > Moss catalog has it listed as part #45 on page 58, and shows it as NA. Note that the distance piece is included in 582-225 "Fitting kit", which is available. > The repair manual's instructions for removal and refitting the cylinder > do not mention this piece Here's what page R5 of the TR3 supplement in the factory workshop manual (page 449 of the Bentley reprint) has to say on the subject : >>> Refitting the Rear Wheel Cylinder Mount the wheel cylinder on to the backplate with the neck through the large slot. Replace the *distance piece* between cylinder neck and backplate, with the open end away from handbrake lever location. The two cranked lips must also be away from the backplate. Insert the spring plate between the distance piece and backplate, also with open end away from handbrake lever location and the two cranked lips away from the backplate. Replace handbrake lever. Locate the retaining plate between the distance piece and spring plate (open end towards the handbrake lever), tap into position until the two cranked tips of the spring plate locate in the retaining plate. <<< Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 5 15:36:02 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 14:36:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <004D7967-DC1F-447D-84E0-AB8DAB81CDC4@aol.com> Message-ID: <20090405213601.UQCF28081.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I googled > "Sears Craftsman Tools lifetime warranty". A lot of stuff I > didn't know.I doubt if I'll but sears any more. I'm not going to worry about it. If Sears reneges on their warranty, there is always small claims court. And at least the words of the Craftsman warranty are the best in the business AFAIK. Even Snap-On does not guarantee their tools against abuse; while Craftsman does. That said, those GearWrench ratchets are looking mighty good. Their warranty isn't as good, but I sure am happy with the GW wrenches I have; and the ratchets have much finer teeth than the "fine tooth" Craftsman ratchets do. Randall From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Apr 5 16:38:03 2009 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 18:38:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4/4A bonnet stiffener brace. Message-ID: <749247E8DD4E452782D2CD49BD249048@i7quad> Today one of the guys in the car club was pointing to an interference point between his hood and his TR4A radiator. The left corner (as seen from the cockpit) was striking the bonnet stiffener brace right at the little dog leg bend. We compared this to my TR4A, and after a rather long while we realized that the alignment of the 2 stiffener braces was different. At the back of the bonnet they both started at the same location, but mine proceeded slightly diagonally and ended between the first and second circular cut-outs on the horizontal bar near the front of the bonnet. His was oriented less diagonally and ended between the second and third holes. As far as we could tell, it was "original". The spot welds look original and there is no extra welding. This is a "replacement" bonnet after the original one was rather bent after a collision a few years ago. Could this replacement be from a TR4, maybe an early one, that used the TR3 radiator which might be slightly narrower than the 4A type? I have never noticed a difference in the location of the longitudinal stiffener brace, but maybe it was changed over the years of production?! -Tony From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Apr 5 16:45:16 2009 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 18:45:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 152 References: Message-ID: <61D136B258F54D81A7C1F9F9DD972060@i7quad> Rodney, The thread is just a standard metric threat. Surprisingly, not a pipe thread. I just went to home-depot and got some matching bolts. I checked the thread depth and got something slightly shorter just to be sure not to create interference somewhere inside. It has worked perfectly since. I removed mine because my air pump started to moan. I also figured that after all these years, the cat was probably literally toast anyway, and injecting some air was not all that critical any longer. Just save the air rail and the valve.! -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 00:07:25 EDT > From: FordneyNJ at aol.com > Subject: [TR] TR 7 Air rail > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I am removing the air pump and air rail from my TR 7. Does any one out > there know a source for the plugs that fill the holes in the head? > > Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ > President, Positive Earth Drivers Club > TR4A IRS CTC 06536 L > TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 > **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 > or > less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Apr 5 18:30:31 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 20:30:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <20090405213601.UQCF28081.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <8CB84660639A5FD-C08-4528@FWM-D26.sysops.aol.com> Craftsman should never refuse to honor a warranty because of "abuse".? Those of us old enough will recall the old television ad that showed their Craftsman desert truck team using a wrench to join two ropes or chains or something like that in order to allow their truck to be towed out of a jam.? Clearly they are advertising a use for which the tool wasn't designed.? By advertising such they would have a hard time arguing that a broken tool shouldn't be warrantied due to non designed use. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 5:36 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Wrenches > I googled > "Sears Craftsman Tools lifetime warranty". A lot of stuff I > didn't know.I doubt if I'll but sears any more. I'm not going to worry about it. If Sears reneges on their warranty, there is always small claims court. And at least the words of the Craftsman warranty are the best in the business AFAIK. Even Snap-On does not guarantee their tools against abuse; while Craftsman does. That said, those GearWrench ratchets are looking mighty good. Their warranty isn't as good, but I sure am happy with the GW wrenches I have; and the ratchets have much finer teeth than the "fine tooth" Craftsman ratchets do. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From tr3a at comcast.net Sun Apr 5 19:06:59 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 21:06:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49D955B3.5040009@comcast.net> From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Apr 5 19:27:49 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 21:27:49 EDT Subject: [TR] Wrenches Message-ID: In a message dated 4/5/2009 6:07:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3a at comcast.net writes: Abused? I don't think they care. My son ran over my Craftsman rubber garden hose with the mower. It had to have been 20 years old and definitely not well treated. Because I am a TR guy, of course I tried to repair it rather than buy a replacement. Like a TR, the hose kept leaking despite my best efforts, so I went to Sears to buy a new one. I didn't bother to bring the old one back as it had been "mowed" (my fault, ya know?). Just making conversation, I mentioned to the cashier why I was buying a new one. She told me to bring the old one in and they would give me a replacement! So I did. Hacking a hose to shreds is ok, but letting a socket rust is not? I agree-I'm only reporting what is being said on sites you'll find when you Google the issue.It seems like there is a shifting of policy. I stood in line one Friday night many years ago behind an AA pilot who had a garden hose in his hands. He was pretty ticked off by the time the clerk got to him. He made a really big and loud deal about the lousy quality and that the house leaked. The clerk pointed out to him that the hose said "Montgomery-Ward" all down the side. But for the grace of God..... Mike Moore From DLylis at aol.com Sun Apr 5 19:29:32 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 21:29:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke Message-ID: Thanks. It is the cut out that is fluttering and not staying closed at any rpm. I think the generator needs a second opinion. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 5 20:17:56 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 19:17:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090406021757.MFIZ22375.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> David, I would suggest forming your own opinion, since you don't trust your 'expert'. Here's a copy of the Lucas test instructions, which should quickly lead you to a conclusion. A digital voltmeter is an adequate substitute for the "good quality moving coil voltmeter", if you keep in mind that the DVM (or DMM) may give changing readings where a moving coil voltmeter would average the fluctuating value. I agree that a chattering cutout is most likely an indication of a bad generator; but it could be other things as well (like a bad connection to the generator). Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Lucas Generator and Control Box tests reduced.pdf] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 5 20:22:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 19:22:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wrenches In-Reply-To: <8CB84660639A5FD-C08-4528@FWM-D26.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20090406022238.OQYV1944.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Craftsman should never refuse to honor a warranty because of > "abuse". Just to be clear, I was not suggesting that Craftsman would not honor their warranty due to abuse. I once took back a breaker bar that I had broken through both using a length of pipe as a cheater bar, and simultaneously beating on the head of the breaker bar with a BFH. The clerk commented on the obvious damage; but gave me a new one without an argument. My Dad once returned a spark plug socket that had gotten run over by a truck. He poured the pieces out on the counter, and the clerk brought a new socket, before asking "How the *** did you do that?!" However, MAC, Snap-On, SK, GearWrench and AFAIK every one else specifically exclude 'abuse' from their warranty. Randall From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Apr 5 20:40:43 2009 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 19:40:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3/6 Battery Sizes Message-ID: <354079.70948.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I need a new battery for the TR3 and TR6. I usually share batteries between cars because I am broke. What size battery is each car supposed to have? I plan to buy a Duralast battery at Autozone (I live in a small town and car part stores are limited). Should I just measure and buy the biggest battery that fits? TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Apr 5 20:59:59 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 22:59:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wrenches References: Message-ID: <5CCD346864664271BEB6CAC867029E2A@fred8kwiskhcfu> If sometime in return of "ANY" Sears product just refer the sales person to the sign over the door ==Satisfaction Guaranteed or your monet back" this is not a slogan but a registered trademark, then ask to see bulletin # 069, all talking stops imediately, you are the sole judge of "Satisfaction" and no one else "FT" =============================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" To: Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 11:51 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Wrenches > At 11:23 AM 4/5/2009, you wrote: >>I may well be wrong on Sears warranty of wrenches. Their guarantee >>was not honored on a craftsman hand tool recently. I forget what it was, >>and decided against giving them more business. Your experience may >>differ. > > As recently as last year, I took a Craftsman torque wrench manufactured in > 1975 back to Sears and obtained a replacement, complete with smile and > helpful attitude. In 35 years of using Craftsman tools professionally, > I've never been denied a replacement. > > I suspect that, for some reason, your case was an anomaly. > > > Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 > http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ > Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Apr 6 06:42:37 2009 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 12:42:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <109163928.395031239021757192.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Well, that is certainly odd.B The cut-out solenoid is cutting in and out?B It would appear that as soon as the generator is getting any current drain at all (at the time of cut-in), it is unable to meet the load, and voltage drops, resulting in a cut-out.B If you have an analog voltmeter, you might be able to see the oscillation in the system voltage.B If you have a new regulator and are sure you connected all the terminals properly, then I think you need to test the regulator on a known good generator and see if it works properly in order to eliminate the new regulator as the culprit. But, I am concerned that there is more here than meets the eye.B I just don't see how you could have smoked your ignition warning light's wire.B It has to conduct some serious current for a while to heat up that much.B And it has +12V on the switched side, and should have no less than ground,B or no more than ~14V on the regulator side.B The warning light should have limited current enough to prevent smoking, or in a worst case scenario, acted like a fuse.B If you fried the warning light wire, then something had to be seriously wrong.B Either the generator was putting out MANY MANY too many volts (possible killing the generator in the process), or you had the warning light improperly connected (though I don't see how). The generator CANB self-start without the warning light giving any trickle of current to the field due to residual magnetism in the field windings, but maybe it will not fire up in real life.B Do you have a functioning warning light now?B If not, fix that first.B Then if the system still does not start regulating, swap the regulator to a known-good system, or vice versa.B If you have a new regulator, then it is most likely either incorrect hook-up of the wires to the regulator or the generator is no good. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: spamiam at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2009 9:29:32 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: [TR] Lucas smoke Thanks.B It is the cut out that is fluttering and not staying closed at any rpm.B I think the generator needs a second opinion. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO Thanks.B It is the cut out that is fluttering and not staying closed at any rpm.B I think the generator needs a second opinion. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession . From DLylis at aol.com Mon Apr 6 06:54:47 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 08:54:47 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke Message-ID: Tony, Thanks much. The regulator is known to be connected exactly as it was when functioning properly for the last 1000 miles or so. Digital pics and Bentley manual. When the smoke cleared, so to speak, and I got the battery disconnected, I went to remove the warning light from the dash. When I reached underneath I found the warning light was not in its socket, but hanging loose. If the light shorted would that have caused the meltdown? Remember, the white wire from the warning light to ignition is in good shape. I am going to get a digital multimeter over here today and go through the test process to see what I find. Randall sent me a .pdf of the procedure. More to come. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Apr 6 07:22:25 2009 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 13:22:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR 7 Air rail In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1681276473.418121239024145128.JavaMail.root@sz0135a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Rodney, I suppose that the little brass plugs are less likely to permanently corrode in place in an aluminum head than steel bolts.B But the steel bolts get the job done. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- From: FordneyNJ at aol.com To: spamiam at comcast.net Sent: Monday, April 6, 2009 12:14:38 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 152 Tony, Thanks for the information.B My cat is off.B I was just re-torquing the head and figured why put the rail back on.B I had seen some nice little brass plugs a while back on e-bay and hope to find a set.B If metric bolts work..... B By the way, I have a working air pump, all the fittings and a new spare check valve.B They will be saved. Rodney From deruiterville at hotmail.com Mon Apr 6 08:01:20 2009 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 09:01:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4/4A bonnet stiffener brace. In-Reply-To: <749247E8DD4E452782D2CD49BD249048@i7quad> References: <749247E8DD4E452782D2CD49BD249048@i7quad> Message-ID: Tony- The TR4 brace isn't diagonal, though I never checked to see if it is perfectly straight. One clue if your friend has a TR4 bonnet is to check how it connects with the bonnet locating buffers - TR4s did not have a receptical for the cone buffer, as the buffers were flat disks similar to a TR3. Randy 64 TR4 59 TR3A > > This is a "replacement" bonnet after the original one was rather bent after a > collision a few years ago. Could this replacement be from a TR4, maybe an > early one, that used the TR3 radiator which might be slightly narrower than > the 4A type? I have never noticed a difference in the location of the > longitudinal stiffener brace, but maybe it was changed over the years of > production?! > _________________________________________________________________ Quick access to your favorite MSN content and Windows Live with Internet Explorer 8. http://ie8.msn.com/microsoft/internet-explorer-8/en-us/ie8.aspx?ocid=B037MSN5 5C0701A From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 6 09:03:43 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 08:03:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas smoke In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090406150342.RXQX19140.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > If the light shorted would that have caused the meltdown? Yes, in fact that is the only explanation I can think of for the meltdown. > Remember, the white wire from > the warning light to ignition is in good shape. Which means the short was on the yellow wire side of the light. When the cutout contacts are closed, the yellow wire is connected more-or-less directly to the battery, so any short is going to produce smoke. This may also damage the control box, as the short current is flowing through coils and contacts inside the box. The yellow wire is also the generator output, so a short has the potential for damaging the generator as well. Randall From maya2blue at juno.com Mon Apr 6 11:07:02 2009 From: maya2blue at juno.com (Harve) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 17:07:02 GMT Subject: [TR] clutch cylinder leak Message-ID: <20090406.120702.23036.4@webmail08.dca.untd.com> What would cause the clutch cylinder (next to the brake cylinder on the bulkhead) on a '77 Spitfire to occasionally empty itself of fluid? That is, it will be just fine for months, then all of a sudden leak until empty - usually overnight Thanks all Harve Thorn Fayetteville, AR NASS #78 ____________________________________________________________ Digital Photography - Click Now. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTDvmQxcf0BNAInzJPowpbxd8yfA yp5ybucHXU2MZFVMBzXbNffJyo/ From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Apr 6 11:31:14 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 10:31:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] new battery box Message-ID: <994415.50431.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm installing a new battery box (tr-3) and finding no way to get it into the hole unless the top angled portion is bent back pretty drastically. I even drilled out spot welds and took out the vent box above the battery inside. no dice. lol so finally i bit the bullet and bent the top angled piece of new battery box back enough to get it in. thats where it sits at present. I think I'll weld the bottom portion of the box in.........then try to bend up the upper part into place for welding. Hopefully nothing will look out of the ordinary viewing the battery box from the engine compartment. (crooked bend line or budged up box) Just wondering if anyone else had the same experience. thanks gary n wellman iowa From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 6 11:52:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 10:52:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3/6 Battery Sizes In-Reply-To: <354079.70948.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <354079.70948.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <063301c9b6e0$7ed66880$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Should I just measure and buy the > biggest > battery that fits? FWIW (not much), I've been taking the opposite approach. Buy a cheap battery at Wally Mart or Costco. I found one a few months back for $35 that starts the project TR3 just fine. Likely it will only last 4-5 years, then I'll buy another one. Compared to an Optima that might last twice as long (or maybe not) but cost four times as much, that seems like a bargain. And if something happens to it, I'm only out $35. Plus the lighter weight should translate to better performance. -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William Brewer > Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 7:41 PM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] TR3/6 Battery Sizes > > I need a new battery for the TR3 and TR6. I usually share batteries > between cars because I am broke. What size battery is each car > supposed to > have? I plan to buy a Duralast battery at Autozone (I live in a small > town > and car part stores are limited). TIA, > Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr3driver at ca.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Apr 6 12:07:57 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 13:07:57 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR3/6 Battery Sizes Message-ID: <1029648048.37403031239041277113.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> I got the Optima for my 72 TR6 and paid only $110 after rebate after some searching on the Internet. They are $300 on Moss, I have yet to find any battery yet worth that kind of money. So far so good with the Optima, I will keep the list posted. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 1:52 PM, Randall wrote: >> Should I just measure and buy the > biggest > battery that fits?B B B B FWIW (not much), I've been taking the opposite approach.B Buy a cheap battery at Wally Mart or Costco.B I found one a few months back for $35 that starts the project TR3 just fine.B Likely it will only last 4-5 years, then I'll buy another one.B Compared to an Optima that might last twice as long (or maybe not) but cost four times as much, that seems like a bargain.B And if something happens to it, I'm only out $35. Plus the lighter weight should translate to better performance. -- Randall > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > B > B [mailto:triumphs- > bounces at autox.team.net] B > B On Behalf Of William Brewer > Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 7:41 PM > To: Triumphs > Subject: [TR] TR3/6 Battery Sizes > > B B B B B I need a new battery for the TR3 and TR6. I usually share > batteries > between cars because I am broke.B B B B What size battery is each car > supposed to > have?B B B B I plan to buy a Duralast battery at Autozone (I live in a > small > town > and car part stores are limited). TIA, > B B B B B Bill BrewerB B B B Tehachapi, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.NetB http://www.team.net/donate.html > B > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org B > > Triumphs at autox.team.net B > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > B > > You are subscribed as tr3driver at ca.rr.com > B > http://www.team.net/archive B > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org B Triumphs at autox.team.net B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs B You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net B http://www.team.net/archive B From emanteno at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 12:14:46 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 13:14:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] clutch cylinder leak In-Reply-To: <20090406.120702.23036.4@webmail08.dca.untd.com> References: <20090406.120702.23036.4@webmail08.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <354a1780904061114nf67defn9c149c7ce39151ba@mail.gmail.com> On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 12:07 PM, Harve wrote: > What would cause the clutch cylinder (next to the brake cylinder on the > bulkhead) on a '77 Spitfire to occasionally empty itself of fluid? That > is, > it will be just fine for months, then all of a sudden leak until empty - > usually overnight In my case, in 2 different TRiumphs (TR6 and TR4), it was due to failed seals in the slave cylinders. The fluid leaked past the seals in the slave, but were retained by the dust cover, so there was no fluid on the ground. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Apr 6 12:26:35 2009 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 13:26:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3/6 Battery Sizes References: <354079.70948.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <063301c9b6e0$7ed66880$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000682DCDB784638BAB6D0FBEDEE9CAD@KARL> Amen, Randall. In the past year we had to replace 4 car batteries, and I decided on Costco batteries. Full replacement for 36 months, and they don't even have battery testers in the stores, so I expect little argument if one indeed dies. If you get more than 3 years out of an inexpensive battery, who cares - when it dies just buy another one and have another 3 year warrantee. Beats worrying about getting all your warranteed years out of an expensive battery and playing the proration game when it dies before it's time. One added plus is that Costco batteries tend to have very good actual (as opposed to just ratings) cranking amperage, verifiable if you do an actual discharge test. Seems to be a good honest battery at a no-frills price. Karl > FWIW (not much), I've been taking the opposite approach. Buy a cheap > battery at Wally Mart or Costco. I found one a few months back for $35 > that > starts the project TR3 just fine. Likely it will only last 4-5 years, > then > I'll buy another one. Compared to an Optima that might last twice as long > (or maybe not) but cost four times as much, that seems like a bargain. > And > if something happens to it, I'm only out $35. From jdinnis at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 14:50:01 2009 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 15:50:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Save The Date...Mid-Iowa Brit/Euro Car Classic In-Reply-To: <49DA5230.4060308@midiowacarclassic.com> References: <49DA5230.4060308@midiowacarclassic.com> Message-ID: Save the Date! We went to this show last year and had a ball! Not very formal, but a lot of neat cars and a bunch of good folks. -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Save the date.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Save the date.jpg] From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Apr 6 16:22:09 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 18:22:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [Spits] clutch cylinder leak Message-ID: <20090406182209.CDI10349@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Harve asked: > What would cause the clutch cylinder (next to the brake > cylinder on the bulkhead) on a '77 Spitfire to occasionally > empty itself of fluid? That is what is commonly referred to as a leak. Specifically on the main seal of the plunger, the one that creates all that nice pressure to disengage the mighty clutch springs. A more significant question is where all that fluif is going. It usually slithers down the actuating arm under the rubber boot, down onto your shoes or dripping off the pedal onto and under the carpet. The cause is a deteriorated or worn rubber seal, possibly with or caused by pitting in the bore of the master cylinder. The fix is to rebuild the cylinder if the bore is okay, or a new MC. Jim Muller -- Been there, done that, the shoe thing. From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Apr 6 16:32:42 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 22:32:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Garage Mirage Part 1 In-Reply-To: <1729196031.735971239057079141.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <92685726.736781239057162154.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> The "mirage" part:B I can't believe the driving season hasn't even started, and all those piddling little things that have been bothering since restoring the TR3A are resolved.B B That's what a garage does, eh?B I know that few if any ofB you will be reading through this list of improvements.B That's okay.B The point is, really, that I had never really minded having restored this car outside in the dirt on days it didn't rain, lying on sometimes wet sand to get under the car.B But now that I have a garage, with a cement floor and glory! a roof!B Look at the stuff you can do, even when you haven't got heat yet! 1.B My OD switch had to be wobbled to engage.B Replaced with an used factory item, thanks to TeriAnn and Randall.B Cleaned, lubed, painted, installed.B Snaps on and off like it's supposed to.B 2.B Installed the new nylon silentbloc conversion.B While in there, replaced those rotted old ball joint boots with better ones from TRF.B Thanks to the list for letting me know TRF had better ones than the ones I acquired several years ago.B Also topped off the steering box with Valvoline full-synthetic 75-90, since it had managed to lose fluid over the past three years.B 3.B Perplexed for a few years why leaves and sand were blowing onto my trousers when I drove.B Thanks to the list, I learned my car did not come with wheel well seal plates.B Installed these and siliconed around the edges, just to be sure.B Lots of advice how to attach the seal plates, but frankly I just drilled a few small holes and pop-riveted them in.B If for some reason I actually do have to remove them, it'll be easy enough to drill out the rivets.B 4.B The heater had stopped working.B Pulled the heater, broke it down, and rebuilt the motor again.B This time, I put dielectric on the armature parts and replaced the brushes and springs which had apparenty rusted out (I didn'tB replace them the first go-round).B Works better than it ever did.B Added benefit was completely exchanged coolant. From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Apr 6 16:33:22 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 22:33:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Garage Mirage Part 2 Message-ID: <1758434501.736971239057202366.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> 5.B After spending $700 at Mo-Ma for rebuilt gauges, I had nice bezels and I'm sure great inner workings, but the needles and faces looked horrible.B On top of it, after the alternator conversion last year, the ammeter was useless.B And to add insult to injury, the fuel gauge stopped working a few months after the Mo-Ma rebuild.B To heck with it.B I bought SunPro fuel, voltage, mechanical oil, and electrical temperature gauges.B A machine shop tapped the old thermostat housing hollow bolt that held the mechanical old style bulb.B Now itB holds the sending unit for the new temp gauge.B While I had the instrument panel out, I renewed the screw-on connectors for the switches as needed.B 6.B Greased every fitting, changed oil in the engine, the fuel filter, etc.B This also required drilling the SunPro fuel sending unit and building a plexiglass adapter flange for the top to hold it all together, with a paper gasket to seal everything up.B Easy enough.B Also topped off the differential. 7.B Drained the OverDrive oil.B Somebody on the list suggested using an oil filter band wrench to take off the brass plug that houses the filter.B Worked like a peach.B First time in several years I cleaned the screen.B Didn't seem to need it, but I feel better.B Replaced the tranny/OD oil with Valvoline 20-50 Racing Oil, which has worked fine over the past several years.B 8.B Took out the seats and carpets since these had been damp when I finished last year's season.B Noted that the seat rails I'd sourced used several years ago were in the initial stages of rust already.B Stripped the conventional paint off them and POR-15'ed them.B Lubed the heck out of the rail's release levers so they operate smoothly, and will use assembly lube on the rails themselves, not that I shift seat positions much.B Just want the option.B From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Apr 6 16:33:47 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 22:33:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Garage Mirage Part III Message-ID: <284697786.737251239057227225.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> 9.B Had mounted a modern radio under the dash in front of the gearshift.B All the dirt and leaves that had been getting into the car had ruined my first radio, so I built a white plastic housing for the replacement which looked like hell.B Pulled the radio, and the speakers too, which I had built into an oak plywood base that went under the back jump seat.B I don't think I'm going to miss it, but if I do I'll monitor to see if the dirt from the wheel wells has dried up.B 10.B The speedometer had never run right since Mo-Ma.B Not their fault, I suspect.B I pulled the speedometer cable, greased it liberally, and reinstalled it with very few sharp turns.B Am hoping to get a steady needle.B 11.B Removed my wire wheels.B Cleaned with engine degreaser and a wire toothbrush, took to a PowerWash, and high pressure cleaned and rinsed.B Painted with DupliColor silver wheel paint.B These wheels really need a sandblasting, but that is something for next year, when I can buy an air compressor and sandblasting stuff for this new garage, after, of course, getting electricity into it. 12.B Removed the wheel bearings and packed with good grease. 13.B Had finished last season with a engine that wouldn't return to idle as it should.B Springs on the linkages were tight, though.B Removed the chambers and piston assemblies, cleaned the gook from them, and they then operated smoothly, which they hadn't been.B Suspect this is the culpret, but will see soon enough.B Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New HampshireB (I cannot wait for inspection on Wednesday, and a season of driving in an essentially "new" car!!!!!!!) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 18:05:14 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 17:05:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3/6 Battery Sizes In-Reply-To: <000682DCDB784638BAB6D0FBEDEE9CAD@KARL> References: <354079.70948.qm@web83307.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <063301c9b6e0$7ed66880$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <000682DCDB784638BAB6D0FBEDEE9CAD@KARL> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904061705y90c4be9ib6c24b1e614b89c5@mail.gmail.com> I too always go to Walmart for batteries. Excellent price and I know wherever I am in the world there will be a Wally Mart. With a little creativity they can even be made to look reasonably period appropriate: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/BatteryTR3.JPG Geo From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 18:08:59 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 17:08:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Garage Mirage Part 1 In-Reply-To: <92685726.736781239057162154.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1729196031.735971239057079141.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <92685726.736781239057162154.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904061708j37416349t422afbba87c6d4b3@mail.gmail.com> On 4/6/09, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >... But now that I have a garage, with a cement floor and glory! a roof! Look at the stuff you can do... Then get a lift and once again you'll be amazed at the number of things that you've lived with that can be resolved. Never ends. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Apr 6 19:11:51 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 18:11:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Garage Mirage Part 2 In-Reply-To: <1758434501.736971239057202366.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <1758434501.736971239057202366.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <06e101c9b71d$d5ab7cd0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > On > top of it, after the alternator conversion last year, the ammeter was > useless. JIC you missed the previous discussion, Terry, there is a trivial way to fix that. I ran the original ammeter indicating the charge from my 65 amp Ford alternator for upwards of 15 years, and it worked great for me. In a nutshell, you add a length of wire to 'short' the ammeter, so it only reads a percentage of the actual current. I made mine read roughly 60 amps full scale instead of 30. Lacking another ammeter capable of indicating that much current, I used the headlight current draw as a reference, adjusting my "short" until the ammeter reading was about half the value without the short. Contrary to what some have said, the original wires in my TR3A were able to handle a 60 amp alternator. In fact, they were larger than my Chevy had in the same circuit for it's "heavy duty" alternator. Randall From jdinnis at gmail.com Mon Apr 6 20:09:23 2009 From: jdinnis at gmail.com (John Innis) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 21:09:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fwd: Save The Date...Mid-Iowa Brit/Euro Car Classic In-Reply-To: <414841.72658.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <49DA5230.4060308@midiowacarclassic.com> <414841.72658.qm@web59414.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: D'oh stupid brain! No Attachments! Date: Saturday June 6, 2009 Location: West Glenn Town Center, West Des Moines, Iowa More Info: www.midiowacarclassic.com On Mon, Apr 6, 2009 at 6:49 PM, Gary Nafziger wrote: > John, > I must have missed the date for this event. Could you send it to me? > > thanks! > > gary nafziger > > ________________________________ > From: John Innis > To: NASS Yahoo Group ; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com; > triumphs ; Spitfires ; > spridgets list > Sent: Monday, April 6, 2009 3:50:01 PM > Subject: [TR] Fwd: Save The Date...Mid-Iowa Brit/Euro Car Classic > > Save the Date! We went to this show last year and had a ball! Not > very formal, but a lot of neat cars and a bunch of good folks. > > -- > ================================= > = Never offend people with style when you = > = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = > ================================= > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > Save the date.jpg] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > Save the date.jpg] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as nafzigerg at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > -- ================================= = Never offend people with style when you = = can offend with substance --- Sam Brown = ================================= From thebujas at comcast.net Mon Apr 6 23:33:54 2009 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 00:33:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph TransAmerica Stag - A/C help needed In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This note is being posted to both the Stag and Triumphs mailing lists. ISOA is in need of help to update the Stag's air conditioning unit. We would like to replace the OE York compressor with a modern compressor that will consume less power and create less vibration while in operation than the York compressor. If you have updated the air conditioning in your Stag and can help, please specify which manufacturer and model of compressor you used. We plan on keeping the original v-belt and not going to a serpentine belt. In addition, please specify the pressure switches and receiver/drier you used and if you needed to replace the expansion valve, condenser, or the evaporator. Since we'll be using R134a, we'll have to replace the existing A/C hoses with barrier hose. We have our plates _really full_ right now and do not have the time to "go to these websites and look around" (as some of our own members have suggested) to find components that _might_ work. We need specific part numbers for components that have been proven to work well together. We have about nine weekends left before the shake-down cruising begins in late May. If we don't get the A/C in place prior our departure for delivery in Florida in late June, we're planning on pulling an all-nighter or two as necessary when John Macartney arrives back to Chicagoland on August 1. Current status - the exhaust system has been mounted and the under-car work is essentially complete. The radiator and all coolant hoses should go in next weekend. Wheels are refinished and are ready for the tires to be mounted. Final paint buffing is in progress, with the windshield frame ready for the glass to go back in. Instrument panel and gauges have been refinished and are ready for installation. Carpeting should be going in in the next two weeks, and the front seat upholstery will be here in about three weeks. See our progress online at http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ Tim Buja - Illinois Sports Owners Association The Triumph Car Club for Chicago and Northern Illinois http://www.snic-braaapp.org From DLylis at aol.com Tue Apr 7 06:12:19 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 08:12:19 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3/6 Battery Sizes Message-ID: I understand that where you live and how much the battery is exposed to extreme temperatures comes into play in this decision, but I buy cheap batteries, remove the labels, stick on a Lucas label, and drive for years. I use a charger when the battery is out of use for a long time (month or more). I understand the Optimas are good; I just don't like the look, or the cost. Walmart, Sams Club, etc. is my choice as well. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From WCA09 at aol.com Tue Apr 7 06:46:48 2009 From: WCA09 at aol.com (WCA09 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 08:46:48 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Pinion Driving Flange Message-ID: Hello, All, In replacing my rear axle pinion oil seal, I note that the flange itself shows considerable wear. So much so that I doubt even a new seal will actually 'seal' as it should. I also note that Moss sells a Speedi-Sleeve to remedy this exact situation. It apparently is pressed over the worn area providing a 'new sealable surface' (their claim). Does anyone have experience with the Speedi-Sleeve? Does it really work? BTW, I'm a relatively new participant in the list as I'm just putting my 3A back on the road after a 25+ year hiatus. What a tremendous resource it is!! What you guys don't know about Triumphs isn't worth knowing.... Bill A. **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221421323x1201417385/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID %3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Apr 7 07:00:43 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 09:00:43 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Pinion Driving Flange Message-ID: In a message dated 4/7/2009 7:49:49 AM Central Daylight Time, WCA09 at aol.com writes: > In replacing my rear axle pinion oil seal, I note that the flange itself > shows considerable wear. So much so that I doubt even a new seal will > actually > 'seal' as it should. I also note that Moss sells a Speedi-Sleeve to remedy > > this exact situation. It apparently is pressed over the worn area > providing a > 'new sealable surface' (their claim). Does anyone have experience with the > > Speedi-Sleeve? Does it really work? > Indeed it does. I had an annoying leak on my TR6 diff even after replacing the seal. I put in a Speedi Sleeve and the leak virtually stopped. Even with the old seal. I highly recommend it. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 7 07:10:57 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 06:10:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Pinion Driving Flange In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090407131100.ELJQ26228.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does > anyone have experience with the Speedi-Sleeve? Does it > really work? I have used Speedi-Sleeves in several places (although not this particular one) and they have worked very well for me. The product has been around for a long time (although I think Moss has only recently started to carry them). I got mine from a local NAPA store, but it appears that not all NAPA stores carry the genuine Speedi-Sleeves (and the imitations don't have as many sizes available). You can read more on the maker's website: http://www.skf.com/portal/skf_us/home/news?contentId=513135 Randall From DLylis at aol.com Tue Apr 7 08:50:56 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 10:50:56 EDT Subject: [TR] Lucas Smoke Update Message-ID: Well, the problem appears to be solved. The ignition warning light slid back out of the red plastic holder and shorted. I have yet to understand why I drove the car for two days with the red light on taking it to the generator/alternator/starter guy, or why he failed to see there was a short, but I have replaced the cooked wire and rewound the wiring harness and all behaves as it is supposed to. I don't get it. A short is a short, is it not? I have started it and run the rpms up to 2000 and the light goes out and the cutout contacts close all the way down to about 1000. Below 1000 the red light glows and when I shut it off the contact opens. Auto Electrics 1 David 1 I hope this is not a best 2 out of 3 series. Thanks to all for your input David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From FGFO1 at aol.com Tue Apr 7 10:59:26 2009 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 12:59:26 EDT Subject: [TR] new battery box Message-ID: Had the same problems Gary. Wish I had just patched the bottom in hindsight. Frank Fisher 58 TR3 **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 7 11:18:45 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 10:18:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Pinion Driving Flange In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <086001c9b7a4$e8d1e880$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > BTW, I'm a relatively new participant in the list as I'm just putting my > 3A > back on the road after a 25+ year hiatus. Welcome to the list, Bill! I'm in a similar situation, since I'm trying to get TS13571L back on the road after 30+ years in storage. Actually drove it to work yesterday, a qualified success as it made it back home (about 60 miles total) under it's own power. But it appears that I did not get the block flushed out thoroughly enough, and now the crud from the block is blocking the tops of the radiator tubes. Gonna try another back flush tonight, maybe that will help. Anyone ever try one of those gizmos that injects compressed air along with the water, to try to carry out more crud? I've heard of them, but never seen one used. I had the radiator professionally rodded while the apron was off, but I sure don't want to pull it again if I can help it. Randall From aribert at c3net.net Tue Apr 7 13:44:08 2009 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 15:44:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR7 air rail plugs [Fwd: Re: Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 152] Message-ID: <20e3ac476df9c9d5dfb47ecabe073ab8.squirrel@server6.glis.net> Rodney: As usual, I am jumping late into this thread - I'm in digest mode and typically don't check messages on weekends. I machined plugs from brass hex bar stock for my Isuzu engine (winter car). I have since changed heads on that vehicle and I would be willing to give the old brass plugs to you (if you are still in need of the plugs) for the cost of shipping - I would need to know the thread size to confirm that the threads are the same (I strongly suspect that they will have the same threads). ---------------------------- Original Message ---------------------------- Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 152 From: "Anthony Rhodes" Date: Sun, April 5, 2009 6:45 pm To: FordneyNJ at aol.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Rodney, The thread is just a standard metric threat. Surprisingly, not a pipe thread. I just went to home-depot and got some matching bolts. I checked the thread depth and got something slightly shorter just to be sure not to create interference somewhere inside. It has worked perfectly since. I removed mine because my air pump started to moan. I also figured that after all these years, the cat was probably literally toast anyway, and injecting some air was not all that critical any longer. Just save the air rail and the valve.! -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Message: 8 > Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 00:07:25 EDT > From: FordneyNJ at aol.com > Subject: [TR] TR 7 Air rail > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I am removing the air pump and air rail from my TR 7. Does any one out > there know a source for the plugs that fill the holes in the head? > > Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ > President, Positive Earth Drivers Club > TR4A IRS CTC 06536 L > TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 > **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 > or > less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Apr 7 17:29:11 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 07 Apr 2009 16:29:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter References: Message-ID: <00a101c9b7d8$a8462cc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello List, On occasion my car pegs the ammeter to discharge side when starting. The car always starts OK and meter might require a tap to free it. Not good for the meter! Is there a common fix for this? I suspect solenoid. I am thinking it's best to replace the starter with a modern one and keep original. Then there is the question which of the big 3 has the best choice for a starter? All opinions appreciated. Thank you. Regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12130 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 7 15:53:44 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 17:53:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Pinion Driving Flange References: Message-ID: <80FECEDCE2CF49DDB81DBDFE00B595F2@userb38463fba5> They work very well, stops leaks from the timing cover seal too. I also have one installed on the differential pinion seal. Industry has used them for years with a lot of success. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 8:46 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A Pinion Driving Flange > Hello, All, > > In replacing my rear axle pinion oil seal, I note that the flange itself > shows considerable wear. So much so that I doubt even a new seal will > actually > 'seal' as it should. I also note that Moss sells a Speedi-Sleeve to > remedy > this exact situation. It apparently is pressed over the worn area > providing a > 'new sealable surface' (their claim). Does anyone have experience with > the > Speedi-Sleeve? Does it really work? > > BTW, I'm a relatively new participant in the list as I'm just putting my > 3A > back on the road after a 25+ year hiatus. What a tremendous resource it > is!! > What you guys don't know about Triumphs isn't worth knowing.... > > Bill A. From mlang99 at comcast.net Tue Apr 7 21:29:56 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Tue, 07 Apr 2009 20:29:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] new battery box In-Reply-To: <994415.50431.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <994415.50431.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49DC1A34.2030504@comcast.net> Gary, I had exactly the same experience with mine. I bent the top edge down to get it under the front edge of the scuttle and then bent it back up. Looks OK now that it's complete. I ran across some pictures on the web showing how someone drilled out the spot welds on the strip of sheet metal that meets the front of the box at the fire wall. They were able to bend the strip down a little to make space for the front of the box to drop in place. If I were to do it again, I would probably give this method a try. The required bend was not as severe. Thanks, Mike Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm installing a new battery box (tr-3) and finding no way to get it into the > hole unless the top angled portion is bent back pretty drastically. I even > drilled out spot welds and took out the vent box above the battery inside. no > dice. lol > so finally i bit the bullet and bent the top angled piece of new > battery box back enough to get it in. thats where it sits at present. I > think I'll weld the bottom portion of the box in.........then try to bend up > the upper part into place for welding. Hopefully nothing will look out of the > ordinary viewing the battery box from the engine compartment. (crooked bend > line or budged up box) > > Just wondering if anyone else had the same experience. > thanks > > gary n > wellman iowa From patton at suscom-maine.net Tue Apr 7 22:04:52 2009 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton) Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 00:04:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter In-Reply-To: <00a101c9b7d8$a8462cc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <00a101c9b7d8$a8462cc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <49DC2264.3000107@suscom-maine.net> Hi, Just a guess but since the current to the starter doesn't normally pass thru the ammeter I'd say you have a bad battery cable or connection. The starter is drawing a huge amount of power and the path thru the ammeter is easier than thru the battery cable. Just cleaning all the battery cable connections, including grounds, may take care of it. Rick Patton http://pattonmachine.com/ 75 TR6sci 74 TVR 2500M Bob wrote: > Hello List, > On occasion my car pegs the ammeter to discharge side when starting. > The car always starts OK and meter might require a tap to free it. > Not good for the meter! Is there a common fix for this? I suspect solenoid. > I am thinking it's best to replace the starter with a modern one and keep > original. > Then there is the question which of the big 3 has the best choice for a > starter? > All opinions appreciated. > Thank you. > Regards, > Bob From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Apr 8 08:24:57 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 07:24:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter References: <00a101c9b7d8$a8462cc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> <49DC2264.3000107@suscom-maine.net> Message-ID: <00c001c9b855$cb1baf90$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Hi Rick, Battery cables on top are tight I need to check connections on starter. Most times I see small discharge when starting so I assumed solenoid pick current went through ammeter. Time to get the wiring diagram out. Thank you. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Patton" To: "Bob" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, April 07, 2009 9:04 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter > Hi, > > Just a guess but since the current to the starter doesn't normally pass > thru the ammeter I'd say you have a bad battery cable or connection. The > starter is drawing a huge amount of power and the path thru the ammeter > is easier than thru the battery cable. Just cleaning all the battery > cable connections, including grounds, may take care of it. > > Rick Patton > http://pattonmachine.com/ > 75 TR6sci > 74 TVR 2500M > > > Bob wrote: > > Hello List, > > On occasion my car pegs the ammeter to discharge side when starting. > > The car always starts OK and meter might require a tap to free it. > > Not good for the meter! Is there a common fix for this? I suspect solenoid. > > I am thinking it's best to replace the starter with a modern one and keep > > original. > > Then there is the question which of the big 3 has the best choice for a > > starter? > > All opinions appreciated. > > Thank you. > > Regards, > > Bob > > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) > Database version: 5.12130 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12130 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From dmitchel at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 8 08:25:15 2009 From: dmitchel at sbcglobal.net (Doug Mitchell) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 07:25:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lou Metalko Message-ID: <330284.88473.qm@web80804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Lou, Could you please contact me off list? If I misspelled your name, I'm sorry. Thanks, Doug Mitchell dmitchel at sbcglobal.net From thomasb at queensu.ca Wed Apr 8 09:06:12 2009 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 11:06:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Crane/Allison MOLEX Plug Needed Message-ID: <0KHS004LUFAM6A30@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi, Does anyone have a "spare" white plastic Molex plug housing. This is used to hold the 3 wires from the distributor pickup and is apparently the same for all Crane/Allison electronic distributor kits. I need one because the exchanged installation kit supplied by Crane last fall did not include one and of course CRANE is no longer in business. Hopefully someone with a failed unit will still have this part and be willing to part with it for a nominal fee. Thanks, Brian Brian Thomas email: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca 92 Wyona Lane work: 613-533-2228 Holliday Point, R R 1 home: 613-385-1947 Wolfe Island, Ontario toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, CANADA K0H 2Y0 52 Ferguson TEA20 From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Apr 8 10:26:18 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 12:26:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Crane/Allison MOLEX Plug Needed Message-ID: In a message dated 4/8/2009 10:06:34 AM Central Daylight Time, thomasb at queensu.ca writes: > > Does anyone have a "spare" white plastic Molex plug housing. This is > used to hold the 3 wires from the distributor pickup and is > apparently the same for all Crane/Allison electronic distributor kits. > > I need one because the exchanged installation kit supplied by Crane > last fall did not include one and of course CRANE is no longer in > business. > > Hopefully someone with a failed unit will still have this part and be > willing to part with it for a nominal fee. > As I recall that is the .062 in series connector available almost anywhere. For example: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/637/1437.pdf The good news is they are cheap and readily available. The bad news is the shipping is going to be the lion's share of the cost unless you can find them locally. On the other hand you can burn up $5 worth of gas looking for one. The other good news is that Mouser doesn't have a minimum order (or didn't last time I looked). Good luck Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 8 11:39:57 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 10:39:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter In-Reply-To: <00c001c9b855$cb1baf90$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <00a101c9b7d8$a8462cc0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com><49DC2264.3000107@suscom-maine.net> <00c001c9b855$cb1baf90$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <018101c9b871$0930fb30$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Most times I see small discharge when starting so I assumed solenoid pick > current went through ammeter. It does. Not a common problem, AFAIK, but certainly possible that there is an intermittent short either inside the solenoid, or in the wire from the switch to the solenoid. Could also be a problem inside the ignition switch itself, which IMO is slightly more likely than the other two. Bad connections can cause all sorts of other problems (ever see a choke cable start smoking?) but this one I think has to be a "connection" that should not be, ie a short. Randall From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Wed Apr 8 13:22:22 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 15:22:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. Hey Vance, Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen that before: http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.jpg Cheers, Blake Discher Detroit From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 8 15:54:58 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 14:54:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <01a201c9b894$a96048e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around > the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this > very cool photo of a TR6. This link gives a (rather poor) English translation of the announcement: http://tinyurl.com/c3tw9k As I read it, looks like basically a Chapter-11 style bankruptcy, with the company seeking court protection from creditors but planning to continue operating and presumably making efforts to pay off their debts. -- Randall From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Apr 8 17:37:24 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 19:37:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY - 9 -13 - 09 Message-ID: <1254359.1239233844779.JavaMail.root@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> 32nd year in the San Francisco Bay Area..... THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 13th, 2009 And now for something completely different..... Join your British car friends, once again, for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina. Over 200 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again gather in the Bay Area for our 32nd Annual British Car Meet. We have been doing this on the same weekend for over 30 years and just because the times, they are a-changin,b webll be a-changinb with the times. After careful consideration of the present economy, fading sponsorship, and smaller attendance, combined with the decentralization of the hobby in general and a number of new competing Northern California events, we have decided to try something that is quite like the first British Car Meet held in Palo Alto in 1978. A one day FREE event .......... That's right, FREE.... Sunday Parking Lot Show & Tell: This will be a simple, no fees, no frills, no awards gathering of British and Arcane car enthusiasts. We have made arrangements with the good folks at the Sierra Point Yacht Club to set up in the parking lots around the club. As last year, the Yacht Club will be offering an optional Sunday brunch and coffee. It all starts Sunday morning at 8:30AM. Sunday Bay To Breakers Tour To Cameron's Pub: These tours take you over some of the most beautiful roads in Northern California. There will be two optional routes; one direct yet still quite scenic, and another with a backroad component. We will be starting tour cars from a staging area by the entrance. Cars will leave in small groups between about 8:30 and 10:00AM - The shorter route should take less than an hour and the backroads route will take a bit more than an hour... Cars should start gathering at Cameron's at about 10:00AM, a combination of early tour drivers and people who live near the coast. Directions To The Brisbane Marina: The Brisbane Marina is located on Sierra Point, just east of the Bayshore Freeway (101) in Brisbane, between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the Marina. Cameron's Pub is located at 1410 S. Cabrillo Hwy in Half Moon Bay. It is just south of downtown on the west side of the coast highway. Information: 310-392-6605 b" e-mail: Website: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html From supertr6 at earthlink.net Wed Apr 8 17:56:03 2009 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 19:56:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <49DD3993.2080904@earthlink.net> I've seen that picture before in some book but I can't remember where though. The quality of the picture wasn't this good though. BTW, the picture is labeled TR5. Note the TR4/5 targa top as well as the sun visors. Joe Blake J. Discher wrote: > On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. > > > > Hey Vance, > Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around > the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this > very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen > that before: > > http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.jpg > > Cheers, > Blake Discher > Detroit > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From yyctr6 at shaw.ca Wed Apr 8 18:00:32 2009 From: yyctr6 at shaw.ca (yyctr6 at shaw.ca) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 18:00:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <49DD3993.2080904@earthlink.net> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> <49DD3993.2080904@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <882429AB6E284900AB09B1E4FBD7B5C7@DavesPC> We've seen the grille, and here are some more shots: http://www.tr6.org/6design.htm -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein Sent: April-08-09 5:56 PM To: Blake J. Discher Cc: Triumph List; Cook; Vance Navarrette; 6 Digest; Mike at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy I've seen that picture before in some book but I can't remember where though. The quality of the picture wasn't this good though. BTW, the picture is labeled TR5. Note the TR4/5 targa top as well as the sun visors. Joe Blake J. Discher wrote: > On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. > > > > Hey Vance, > Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around > the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this > very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen > that before: > > http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.j > pg > > Cheers, > Blake Discher > Detroit > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as yyctr6 at shaw.ca http://www.team.net/archive From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Apr 8 19:34:06 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 21:34:06 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Message-ID: Had a chance to look at the GT today. The fuel filter looks like it is full of rootbeer (acts lately like it is running out of gas). Sounds to me like rust in the tank. Problem is no one has a new one for sale from anyone I have checked. Plan right now is to change the filter and keep spares with us until we come up with another plan. Anyone else have any ideas? We plan to take both cars to Marble Falls for the VTR South Central Regional. Sam and Carol **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Apr 8 19:57:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 18:57:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090409015744.LDZN18613.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Anyone else have any ideas? 1) Sediment bowl. 2) Many radiator shops will now recondition gas tanks to better than new, for about the same price as new. Eg, http://www.gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm If there isn't one in your area, I believe at least Mac's Radiator (the agent up the road from me, in Bellflower, CA) will do it by mail. If he won't, I will. 3) Or you can do it yourself with POR-15 http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/TSG/ Randall From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Apr 8 20:22:59 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 22:22:59 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Message-ID: Thanks, Randall. I thought the guy I bought the car from had done It. It has a new fuel pump and a raft of things that were done before we bought it We have driven the car several hundred miles before this happened. In a message dated 4/8/2009 8:58:05 P.M. Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Anyone else have any ideas? 1) Sediment bowl. 2) Many radiator shops will now recondition gas tanks to better than new, for about the same price as new. Eg, http://www.gastankrenu.com/loc-dealer.htm If there isn't one in your area, I believe at least Mac's Radiator (the agent up the road from me, in Bellflower, CA) will do it by mail. If he won't, I will. 3) Or you can do it yourself with POR-15 http://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/TSG/ Randall **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Apr 8 20:21:40 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 08 Apr 2009 22:21:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Today's GT6 event Message-ID: <49DD2374.26841.167E0642@localhost> Drove the GT6 to work again today. Great ride. About 40 miles down the road I hit a bump fairly hard and the engine started missing slightly. Over the next half mile it got worse. Pulled over, popped the bonnet. The coil wire was resting lightly against the top of the dizzy cap. Okay, so it must have been somewhat loose to start with, but it was still a helluva bump. Re-attached the wire, drove the rest of the way to work. Just another Triumph adventure. Never had that happen before. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Wed Apr 8 20:35:25 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 19:35:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <66BDE5A346424EE6A900B6827C31DDA1@joepentiumnew> It could be a simple problem with fuel tank venting. If there is not a vent source, the suction that develops inside the tank could cause fuel starvation. It is worse the more fuel that is in the tank. I found that out the hard way when I used a non vented GT6 cap on my Spit and the first time I filled it up, the thing barely got out of the gas station before it stalled. I opened the cap and heard a whoosh of air rushing into the tank. I added a vent hold and never had another problem. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 6:34 PM To: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com; tr6 at atlasok.com; akgraves at cox.net; cartravel at pobox.com; jimtmurray at hotmail.com; pass_me_by at hotmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] GT6 Had a chance to look at the GT today. The fuel filter looks like it is full of rootbeer (acts lately like it is running out of gas). Sounds to me like rust in the tank. Problem is no one has a new one for sale from anyone I have checked. Plan right now is to change the filter and keep spares with us until we come up with another plan. Anyone else have any ideas? We plan to take both cars to Marble Falls for the VTR South Central Regional. Sam and Carol **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Apr 8 20:48:43 2009 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 22:48:43 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Message-ID: Thanks, Joe. I will check it out. Sam and Carol Clark In a message dated 4/8/2009 9:35:31 P.M. Central Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: It could be a simple problem with fuel tank venting. If there is not a vent source, the suction that develops inside the tank could cause fuel starvation. It is worse the more fuel that is in the tank. I found that out the hard way when I used a non vented GT6 cap on my Spit and the first time I filled it up, the thing barely got out of the gas station before it stalled. I opened the cap and heard a whoosh of air rushing into the tank. I added a vent hold and never had another problem. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 6:34 PM To: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com; tr6 at atlasok.com; akgraves at cox.net; cartravel at pobox.com; jimtmurray at hotmail.com; pass_me_by at hotmail.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] GT6 Had a chance to look at the GT today. The fuel filter looks like it is full of rootbeer (acts lately like it is running out of gas). Sounds to me like rust in the tank. Problem is no one has a new one for sale from anyone I have checked. Plan right now is to change the filter and keep spares with us until we come up with another plan. Anyone else have any ideas? We plan to take both cars to Marble Falls for the VTR South Central Regional. Sam and Carol **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From bob at texmog.com Wed Apr 8 22:07:25 2009 From: bob at texmog.com (bob at texmog.com) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 23:07:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Vibration in TR 3 Engine Message-ID: <2E3C89EB88594A2E931A1A528E25AC8F@CARROOM> Okay, I finally got the engine rebuild from hell in the car and, yes another problem. First the background. New AE pistons and liners (87 mm), all new bearings (10 over), cam checked out as okay and lifters reground, All new valves and guides, new timing chain. All internal moving parts including the flywheel were balanced by a local race engine builder, the main bearing journals were line bored. The distributor was totally rebuilt as were the carbs. Started the engine up and ran it per instructions of the cam company to seat the lifters. Engine ran smooth and idles beautifully. On driving the car the engine is again very smooth and has plenty of power. The problem is that as it approaches 2800 RPM a vibration starts, peaking at about 3000 RPM and fades out at 3500 RPM. The vibration is bad enough to cause the body panels to all start ringing. At first I thought it was the drive shaft but you can get the vibration even if the car is not moving although it is not as bad. After having the carbs and distributor rebuilt I installed them in my other car and tuned the carbs so has to have then at least close on start up of the new engine and there was no vibration it that engine. I'm not looking forward to tearing the engine down especially since I have no idea where to even start looking for the problem. Any suggestions as where to start looking for the cause of the vibration? Bob From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 9 01:04:08 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 07:04:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. Message-ID: A friend sent me this link. http://www.nwicars.com/09011.htm Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor age1_042009 From staffel at comcast.net Thu Apr 9 02:43:58 2009 From: staffel at comcast.net (staffel at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 08:43:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] ;TR3 vibration Message-ID: <862061093-1239266607-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-450548739-@bxe1065.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Bob-are you running orig mechanical fan? Or elec fan conversion-removing the 6" dumbell? If latter, Did you use a harmonic balancer (big bolt same as ford 351 crank threads? Sherman Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T From DLylis at aol.com Thu Apr 9 05:35:48 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 07:35:48 EDT Subject: [TR] ;TR3 vibration Message-ID: Can't argue with stock fan/harmonic balancer. As well, are you certain that tranny is properly centered with dowel pins, etc? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Thu Apr 9 07:39:50 2009 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 06:39:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 160 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4086B76A146A4EABA978BD73DF39A7D7@Gateway1> Great business, and nice people. I just my 4A to them. If you go in to see the 3A, stop by and say HI to my 4A! Brian ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 07:04:08 +0000 From: tom white Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. To: Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" A friend sent me this link. http://www.nwicars.com/09011.htm Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Sto r age1_042009 ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 160 **************************************** From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Apr 9 07:41:22 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 08:41:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com><49DD3993.2080904@earthlink.net> <882429AB6E284900AB09B1E4FBD7B5C7@DavesPC> Message-ID: <9755C636F864408AB30AD48890E79C43@yourpd3mh0abgs> mein Gott! dieser Grill ist schrecklich! ray ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'Joe Burlein'" ; "'Blake J. Discher'" Cc: "'Triumph List'" ; "'6 Digest'" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "'Vance Navarrette'" ; "'Cook'" ; Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 7:00 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy > We've seen the grille, and here are some more shots: > http://www.tr6.org/6design.htm > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein > Sent: April-08-09 5:56 PM > To: Blake J. Discher > Cc: Triumph List; Cook; Vance Navarrette; 6 Digest; Mike at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy > > I've seen that picture before in some book but I can't remember where > though. The quality of the picture wasn't this good though. BTW, the > picture is labeled TR5. Note the TR4/5 targa top as well as the sun > visors. > > Joe > > Blake J. Discher wrote: >> On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: >> Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. >> >> >> >> Hey Vance, >> Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around >> the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this >> very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen >> that before: >> >> http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.j >> pg >> >> Cheers, >> Blake Discher >> Detroit >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as yyctr6 at shaw.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spook01 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Apr 9 08:47:32 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 07:47:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vibration in TR 3 Engine In-Reply-To: <2E3C89EB88594A2E931A1A528E25AC8F@CARROOM> References: <2E3C89EB88594A2E931A1A528E25AC8F@CARROOM> Message-ID: <2E6DD8A141404018828E3BC86F9EDFE3@JimofficePC> An off list friend with a lot of TR3 engine rebuilding experience suggested that the flywheel might not be seated properly/fully; or pressure plate or clutch imbalance; pistons and connecting rod not of same weight, even pistons installed backwards and facing the wrong direction; the transmission not mated properly to the engine was a good thought also! Good luck, Jim Bauder -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bob at texmog.com Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 9:07 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Vibration in TR 3 Engine Okay, I finally got the engine rebuild from hell in the car and, yes another problem. First the background. New AE pistons and liners (87 mm), all new bearings (10 over), cam checked out as okay and lifters reground, All new valves and guides, new timing chain. All internal moving parts including the flywheel were balanced by a local race engine builder, the main bearing journals were line bored. The distributor was totally rebuilt as were the carbs. Started the engine up and ran it per instructions of the cam company to seat the lifters. Engine ran smooth and idles beautifully. On driving the car the engine is again very smooth and has plenty of power. The problem is that as it approaches 2800 RPM a vibration starts, peaking at about 3000 RPM and fades out at 3500 RPM. The vibration is bad enough to cause the body panels to all start ringing. At first I thought it was the drive shaft but you can get the vibration even if the car is not moving although it is not as bad. After having the carbs and distributor rebuilt I installed them in my other car and tuned the carbs so has to have then at least close on start up of the new engine and there was no vibration it that engine. I'm not looking forward to tearing the engine down especially since I have no idea where to even start looking for the problem. Any suggestions as where to start looking for the cause of the vibration? Bob Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Apr 9 09:25:44 2009 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 11:25:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy References: Message-ID: <3DF84D4528254F6A9A826967843E7034@artvac412870f0> You're kidding right? The TR5 in Europe was the TR6 with the PI (petrol injrection) system. I don't know of any Fuel Injected 4A's produced for Europe. Excuse me if this was only intended in good humor. Wayne Lee Douglas,MA 75 TR6 64 TR4 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; ; ; ; ; Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 10:32 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy > In a message dated 4/9/2009 10:21:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu writes: > > The picture is titled "TR5" but the TR5 in Europe was the TR-4A only with > the > fuel injection. It was sold as the TR-5, as everyone on the list knows. > ________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 9 10:34:01 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 09:34:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vibration in TR 3 Engine In-Reply-To: <2E3C89EB88594A2E931A1A528E25AC8F@CARROOM> References: <2E3C89EB88594A2E931A1A528E25AC8F@CARROOM> Message-ID: <02f201c9b930$fe0ccbb0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > At first I thought it was the > drive shaft but you can get the vibration even if the car is not moving > although it is not as bad. Just a thought, does it still happen if you hold the clutch pedal down? If not, it might be a bent transmission input shaft or misalignment between engine and transmission (missing dowels). -- Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Apr 9 10:37:08 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 09:37:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY - 9 -13 - 09 In-Reply-To: <1254359.1239233844779.JavaMail.root@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <1254359.1239233844779.JavaMail.root@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904090937n228a9df1h6c6d143f5253e1b6@mail.gmail.com> On Wed, Apr 8, 2009 at 4:37 PM, wrote: > ... we have decided to try something that is > quite like the first British Car Meet held in Palo Alto in 1978. A > one day FREE event .......... That's right, FREE.... Well done sir, I hope you get a good turnout. I enjoy Brit car events, seeing the cars and visiting with fellow enthusiasts but frankly have limited interest in paying 25 to 50 dollars for the privilege. My 'drivers' are nice but will never win a trophy and I have enough T-shirts to last a lifetime. Good to see a club taking an enlightened approach to enjoying our hobby. Geo Hahn From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Apr 9 10:56:07 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 12:56:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy Message-ID: <20090409125607.CDO95482@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Wayne queried: > The TR5 in Europe was the TR6 with the PI (petrol > injection) system. I don't know of any Fuel Injected > 4A's produced for Europe. Ummm, I've never been a TR owner except for a brief experience with a defunct TR6, but I believe you have something backwards. As I understand it, the 2.5liter 6-cyl engine was ready and needed before the TR6 body was ready. As a stopgap Triumph installed that engine into the TR4A. The European cars got PI, but North American cars got twin carbs because Triumph were afraid that American drivers would be scared by the lower fuel mileage and that American mechanics wouldn't know how to deal with the PI. The European version was named TR5. To distinguish between the PI version and the twin-carb version the N.Am. cars were named TR250. The body style of both was essentially that of TR4A, with the N.Am. versions (at least) generally getting a distinctive stripe running across the nose. Don't know how universal that was. The TR5/250 was produced only for the nominal model year 1968. The TR6 was introduced in 1969, and with the possible exception of emissions control and tri! m, bumpers, etc. it was the same everywhere. -- Jim Muller From pethier at comcast.net Thu Apr 9 11:29:38 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 17:29:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <803456995.2973361239298170617.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <498222335.2973431239298178635.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> > You're kidding right? The TR5 in Europe was the TR6 with the PI > (petrol > injrection) system. You're kidding, right? The TR5 was in Europe while the TR250 was in the USA. TR5 = Injection. TR250 = ZS carbies. These cars had the 6-cyl engine in the Michelotti body. The TR4A was 4-cyl car with a new frame different from the TR4. The TR6 was the Karmann-modified body design still with the 6-cyl. > I don't know of any Fuel Injected 4A's > produced for Europe. Nor do I. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 9 11:45:36 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 12:45:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy References: <20090409125607.CDO95482@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <003001c9b93b$0b36f590$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> Jim - you are very correct on the tr250, but if you don't mind allow me to expand on the tr6. rumor has it that some of the delay was "translating" the car into SAE because Karmann did the whole car in metric. the TR5 PI engine was continued in the tr6 for everywhere except north america, where we got the carb'd version as in the TR250. the cam and horsepower are also different, the PI doing substantially better, supposedly around 150 hp whereas the carb'd vers was more like 105. the pollution equipment, the head, the exhaust and manifolds, and then even the carbs changed over time for the worse as BL didn't know how to work within the ever more stringent pollution standards except by strangling the car more and more. this was also true for the spitfire, mgb, midget, etc. also there are the issues of ride height and the rubber bumpers, a somewhat different but related issue. many tr6 owners feel the 71/72 years are the best due the the dual exhaust, best head and compression, and previous to most smog "improvements." ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 11:56 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy > Wayne queried: >> The TR5 in Europe was the TR6 with the PI (petrol >> injection) system. I don't know of any Fuel Injected >> 4A's produced for Europe. > > Ummm, I've never been a TR owner except for a brief experience with a > defunct TR6, but I believe you have something backwards. As I understand > it, the 2.5liter 6-cyl engine was ready and needed before the TR6 body was > ready. As a stopgap Triumph installed that engine into the TR4A. The > European cars got PI, but North American cars got twin carbs because > Triumph were afraid that American drivers would be scared by the lower > fuel mileage and that American mechanics wouldn't know how to deal with > the PI. The European version was named TR5. To distinguish between the > PI version and the twin-carb version the N.Am. cars were named TR250. The > body style of both was essentially that of TR4A, with the N.Am. versions > (at least) generally getting a distinctive stripe running across the nose. > Don't know how universal that was. The TR5/250 was produced only for the > nominal model year 1968. The TR6 was introduced in 1969, and with the > possible exception of emissions control and tr > i! > m, bumpers, etc. it was the same everywhere. > -- > Jim Muller From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Apr 9 12:07:06 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 14:07:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY - 9 -13 - 09 Message-ID: <23902932.1239300426743.JavaMail.root@mswamui-thinleaf.atl.sa.earthlink.net> From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Apr 9 12:08:13 2009 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 14:08:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy References: <498222335.2973431239298178635.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Yes, You're right, my typo on the TR6. My main point was a TR5 wasn't a Fuel Injected 4A. Same Body, Yes. I'm familiar with the 68 TR250's vs, TR5. I was referring to " " but the TR5 in Europe was the TR-4A only with the fuel injection" It's also true some early 4A's could be had with Non IRS setup correct? Wayne 64 TR4 75 TR6 From: To: "Wayne Lee" Cc: ; "Triumph List" Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:29 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy >> You're kidding right? The TR5 in Europe was the TR6 with the PI >> (petrol >> injrection) system. > > You're kidding, right? > > The TR5 was in Europe while the TR250 was in the USA. TR5 = Injection. > TR250 = ZS carbies. These cars had the 6-cyl engine in the Michelotti > body. > > The TR4A was 4-cyl car with a new frame different from the TR4. > > The TR6 was the Karmann-modified body design still with the 6-cyl. > >> I don't know of any Fuel Injected 4A's >> produced for Europe. > > Nor do I. > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 9 12:47:48 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 11:47:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: References: <498222335.2973431239298178635.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <032701c9b943$b0ea43e0$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > It's also true some early 4A's could be had with Non IRS setup correct? All of them, not just early ones. IRS was marketed as an option in the US. Non-IRS was optional elsewhere. -- Randall From YYCTR6 at shaw.ca Thu Apr 9 13:03:36 2009 From: YYCTR6 at shaw.ca (Dave More) Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 13:03:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: References: <498222335.2973431239298178635.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: As documented in a few publications North American buyers could buy either a TR4A or a TR4A-IRS. The TR4A used the traditional live axle, and was only available in NA as the Triumph importers felt that the IRS would make the car too expensive. ----- Original Message ----- From: Wayne Lee Date: Thursday, April 9, 2009 12:40 pm Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy To: pethier at comcast.net, Triumph List > Yes, You're right, my typo on the TR6. My main point was a TR5 > wasn't a Fuel > Injected 4A. Same Body, Yes. > I'm familiar with the 68 TR250's vs, TR5. I was referring to " > " but the TR5 in Europe was the TR-4A only with the fuel injection" > > It's also true some early 4A's could be had with Non IRS setup > correct?Wayne > 64 TR4 > 75 TR6 > > > > > > From: > To: "Wayne Lee" > Cc: ; "Triumph List" > Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:29 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy > > > >> You're kidding right? The TR5 in Europe was the TR6 with the PI > >> (petrol > >> injrection) system. > > > > You're kidding, right? > > > > The TR5 was in Europe while the TR250 was in the USA. > TR5 = Injection. > > TR250 = ZS carbies. These cars had the 6-cyl engine in > the Michelotti > > body. > > > > The TR4A was 4-cyl car with a new frame different from the TR4. > > > > The TR6 was the Karmann-modified body design still with the 6-cyl. > > > >> I don't know of any Fuel Injected 4A's > >> produced for Europe. > > > > Nor do I. > > > > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 > > 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion > 3 2.4 > > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net > > http://forum.mnautox.com/forums > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as yyctr6 at shaw.ca > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Thu Apr 9 13:19:39 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 19:19:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR DAY - 9 -13 - 09 In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0904090937n228a9df1h6c6d143f5253e1b6@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <1946287381.3033151239304779431.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I'm going to miss this by two weeks. I plan to be in the Bay area on the weekend of Sept 26-27, when I expect you all will have another get-together in support of John Macartney's charity tour. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 9 13:51:44 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 12:51:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <003001c9b93b$0b36f590$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> References: <20090409125607.CDO95482@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> <003001c9b93b$0b36f590$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <034101c9b94c$9ca0d990$275636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > the pollution equipment, the head, the exhaust and manifolds, and then > even > the carbs changed over time for the worse as BL didn't know how to work > within the ever more stringent pollution standards except by strangling > the > car more and more. True enough, but they were not alone in that regard. Basically ALL emissions engines from that period were significantly detuned. It has taken major advances in computer control, catalyst technology and engine design to get back that performance. And it's still not unusual for the US version of an engine to make less power than a non-pollution controlled equivalent. The difference is usually smaller than it was with the TR6, but it's still there. Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Apr 9 14:19:34 2009 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 16:19:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6fa72a770904091319s78d6530l9c3de4b692a4aebf@mail.gmail.com> Thanks - Good to see what you can get for 25k these days. Looks a little rough to me... A new battery box was attached maybe with welds? Makes you wonder what other repairs are of a similar nature. Still very fun to see. Thanks On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 3:04 AM, tom white wrote: > A friend sent me this link. > > http://www.nwicars.com/09011.htm > > Best regards, > Tom > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. > > http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor > age1_042009 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Apr 9 14:55:04 2009 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 16:55:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fw: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy Message-ID: I'd disagree on the Earlier Head and Manifolds being better, It's my understanding the later Heads flow better. The only bad thing about the post 74 Exhaust Manifold is the EGR injectors pissing in the wind. A late Head is basically the P/I Head cast thicker to allow for deeper Combustion Chambers knocking the compression down to 7:75 to 1 or whatever. This is easily overcome by machining the Head to the desired C/R. Most believe the Circle B and Diamond W Head Castings are the best starting point for a modified Engine. Of course this makes the late Intake Manifold needed if you stay with 2 CV Carbs.Which is said to flow better I think the older Carbs are better too. . The only other differences is if someone wants to change the Cam. I used a 74 Exhaust Manifold, plugged the Emissions Pipe Port on the Intake, Changed the Stromberg's with SU's w/K&N's and put in a Pertronix, and it had the ANSA Dual Exhaust when I got it. No Rocket Ship but she goes sweet, and gets 24 mpg on the Country Roads I bring her to work daily on. I kept the C/R stock when I had the Head off. 87 Octane agrees with her fine @ 10 degrees BTDC Timing. Cheers, Wayne Lee 64 TR4 75 TR6 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "oliver" > To: > Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 1:45 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy > > >> Jim - you are very correct on the tr250, but if you don't mind allow me >> to expand on the tr6. >> >> rumor has it that some of the delay was "translating" the car into SAE >> because Karmann did the whole car in metric. >> >> the TR5 PI engine was continued in the tr6 for everywhere except north >> america, where we got the carb'd version as in the TR250. the cam and >> horsepower are also different, the PI doing substantially better, >> supposedly around 150 hp whereas the carb'd vers was more like 105. >> >> the pollution equipment, the head, the exhaust and manifolds, and then >> even the carbs changed over time for the worse as BL didn't know how to >> work within the ever more stringent pollution standards except by >> strangling the car more and more. this was also true for the spitfire, >> mgb, midget, etc. >> >> also there are the issues of ride height and the rubber bumpers, a From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Apr 9 15:43:53 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 17:43:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Vibration in TR 3 Engine References: <2E3C89EB88594A2E931A1A528E25AC8F@CARROOM> Message-ID: <4198255F80CB4E0184A6766EC74801D2@Toms> Bob, was the clutch assy. balanced with the flywheel? Just a thought. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 12:07 AM Subject: [TR] Vibration in TR 3 Engine > Okay, I finally got the engine rebuild from hell in the car and, yes > another > problem. > First the background. New AE pistons and liners (87 mm), all new bearings > (10 over), cam checked out as okay and lifters reground, All new valves > and > guides, new timing chain. All internal moving parts including the flywheel > were balanced by a local race engine builder, the main bearing journals > were > line bored. The distributor was totally rebuilt as were the carbs. > > Started the engine up and ran it per instructions of the cam company to > seat > the lifters. Engine ran smooth and idles beautifully. > On driving the car the engine is again very smooth and has plenty of > power. > The problem is that as it approaches 2800 RPM a vibration starts, peaking > at > about 3000 RPM and fades out at 3500 RPM. The vibration is bad enough to > cause the body panels to all start ringing. At first I thought it was the > drive shaft but you can get the vibration even if the car is not moving > although it is not as bad. > After having the carbs and distributor rebuilt I installed them in my > other > car and tuned the carbs so has to have then at least close on start up of > the new engine and there was no vibration it that engine. > > I'm not looking forward to tearing the engine down especially since I > have > no idea where to even start looking for the problem. > Any suggestions as where to start looking for the cause of the vibration? > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Apr 9 17:36:19 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 19:36:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Aero Kroil Message-ID: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net> All, Well my order of the 16oz Aero Kroil came by UPS today and I am going to give it a try on my 6 project engine and the screws that attach the door striker since I have the rusted portion of the rear b posts off. It will also be a good test for the 2 broken studs in the exhaust manifold. There is enough of the stud left to grab with a vice grip. I really don't want to have to drill out those studs. There was a post on the 6pack forum that this stuff is the best for removing rusted nuts, bolts and studs. I have used PB blaster in the past but it received a good review on the forum. They have a special running now where you order 1 can and you get a 2nd for FREE! I should have enough to start another project! But should I tell the wife? I will report later on how the stuff works good or bad. Bob From jhassall at blacksburg.net Thu Apr 9 20:50:53 2009 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 22:50:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Crane/Allison MOLEX Plug Needed In-Reply-To: <0KHS004LUFAM6A30@mta01.its.queensu.ca> References: <0KHS004LUFAM6A30@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Message-ID: <0KHV00HF23ONKD39@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> At 11:06 AM 4/8/2009, Brian Thomas wrote: >Hi, > >Does anyone have a "spare" white plastic Molex plug housing. This is >used to hold the 3 wires from the distributor pickup and is >apparently the same for all Crane/Allison electronic distributor kits. > >I need one because the exchanged installation kit supplied by Crane >last fall did not include one and of course CRANE is no longer in business. > >Hopefully someone with a failed unit will still have this part and be >willing to part with it for a nominal fee. Brian, Radio Shack carries these connectors. >Thanks, > >Brian > >Brian Thomas email: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca >92 Wyona Lane work: 613-533-2228 >Holliday Point, R R 1 home: 613-385-1947 >Wolfe Island, Ontario toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, >CANADA K0H 2Y0 52 Ferguson TEA20 >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as jhassall at blacksburg.net > >http://www.team.net/archive -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 96% finished, 90% to go From ZoboHerald at aol.com Thu Apr 9 20:26:50 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 22:26:50 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. Message-ID: In a message dated 4/9/2009 4:51:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: Looks a little rough to me... A new battery box was attached maybe with welds? Makes you wonder what other repairs are of a similar nature. Still very fun to see. Thanks ==AM== Then there's the engine bay as a whole: flat black (albeit better than some), turn signal flasher with no wires connected anywhere near, older screw-terminal voltage regulator. And an interior that did NOT impress me. Oh, and I think more than 408 of these were built! :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Apr 9 20:38:55 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 20:38:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Crane/Allison MOLEX Plug Needed In-Reply-To: <0KHV00HF23ONKD39@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> References: <0KHS004LUFAM6A30@mta01.its.queensu.ca> <0KHV00HF23ONKD39@vms173005.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <49DEB13F.9070200@dfn.com> J.C. Hassall wrote: > At 11:06 AM 4/8/2009, Brian Thomas wrote: >> Hi, >> >> Does anyone have a "spare" white plastic Molex plug housing. This is >> used to hold the 3 wires from the distributor pickup and is >> apparently the same for all Crane/Allison electronic distributor kits. >> >> I need one because the exchanged installation kit supplied by Crane >> last fall did not include one and of course CRANE is no longer in >> business. >> >> Hopefully someone with a failed unit will still have this part and be >> willing to part with it for a nominal fee. > > Brian, Radio Shack carries these connectors. > If no luck at Radio Shack, they can be found in Molex's online catalog: http://www.molex.com Once you have a type and/or number, the part can likely be ordered through either Digi-Key, http://www.digikey.com , or Newark, http://www.newark.com/molex Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Apr 9 21:29:55 2009 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 09 Apr 2009 23:29:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <12D10B445FCE4809B6C584A1304EBB5C@CarlPC> Fuel line between carbs wrong; Heater valve connected to something on passenger side but no heater hose out from drivers side; no body tags above battery; etc etc. might be a good amateur restoration but a lot of questions for that kind of $. Someone not familiar with this list will see it - go gaga - buy it and then be less than happy when he meets up with others in the Triumph community. Interesting color too.... Carl visit the triumph trans-america charity page at http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ and the Regalia site at http://mysite.verizon.net/res10wape/ 77 days to 'kick-off'.... ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Cc: Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 10:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A for sale. > In a message dated 4/9/2009 4:51:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > ccsimonsen at gmail.com writes: > > Looks a little rough to me... A new battery box was attached maybe > with > welds? Makes you wonder what other repairs are of a similar nature. > Still > very fun to see. Thanks > > ==AM== > Then there's the engine bay as a whole: flat black (albeit better than > some), turn signal flasher with no wires connected anywhere near, older > screw-terminal voltage regulator. And an interior that did NOT impress > me. > > Oh, and I think more than 408 of these were built! :-) > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph > Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph > Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) > > **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a > recession. > (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 9 23:04:31 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 22:04:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090410050428.TRGI12747.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Oh, and I think more than 408 of these were built! :-) You might want to discuss that with Bill Piggott then, as that is the number he gives in Original Triumph for TR3As produced in 1961. His justification for that number is a bit sketchy, as he gives the first commission number in 1961 as TS82030 and the first number in 1962 as TS82340; which looks like only 310 cars. But he does mention that many cars were finished out of sequence, so perhaps the difference is earlier cars that required rework or something like that. Of course, as we all know, being made in 1961 and being registered in 1961 are two different things. No doubt the number of cars so registered was noticeably higher. But there is at least some justification for the 408 number. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 11 02:10:49 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 02:10:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770904091319s78d6530l9c3de4b692a4aebf@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20090410090856.6FC3418763F@autox.team.net> Gee, I am starting to feel much better about my first frame-off project, in process. I hope he gets his price, I'll add another $6k to mine! Bill b -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Simo Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 2:20 PM To: tom white Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A for sale. Thanks - Good to see what you can get for 25k these days. Looks a little rough to me... A new battery box was attached maybe with welds? Makes you wonder what other repairs are of a similar nature. Still very fun to see. Thanks On Thu, Apr 9, 2009 at 3:04 AM, tom white wrote: > A friend sent me this link. > > http://www.nwicars.com/09011.htm > > Best regards, > Tom > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. > > http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Sto r > age1_042009 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Apr 10 09:10:43 2009 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:10:43 -0000 Subject: [TR] new battery box In-Reply-To: <49DC1A34.2030504@comcast.net> Message-ID: Hi Mike, I think I was the one that you are talking about referring to drilling out the spot welds to remove the old battery box. The reason I did that was that I had bought a "rescued" TR4 battery box off a guy on EBAY. Since then, I found that there was a supplier in England that sold new replacement pieces. I think it was Revington but don't hold me to that.. I remember I paid about $40-50 for mine but that was a couple of years ago and it was on this side of the pond so I had that going for me too. If you want to see how I did it, http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a On the Nav page, click Bodywork, find Replacing the Battery Box Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS (Hoping to paint this summer) http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From tr4boy at surewest.net Fri Apr 10 16:19:10 2009 From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 15:19:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Harmonic Balancer for TR-4? Message-ID: Folks, I'm in the process of removing the stock fan on my '64 TR-4 and replacing it with a Perma-cool 12" electric. Some folks think that Patton's fan elimination kit will work just fine (see it at http://www.pattonmachine.com ). Others, however, think I should upgrade to a harmonic balancer. If I decide to go to a harmonic balancer how do I find one to fit? Does anyone on the list know of a direct fit harmonic balancer for the TR-4? Has anyone used one? Got a manufacturer / part no.? What size retaining bolt do I use? What issues should I expect in converting? Thanks! Greg From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Apr 10 17:05:46 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 00:05:46 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. References: <20090410050428.TRGI12747.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Randall wrote: > His justification for that number is a bit sketchy, as he gives the first > commission number in 1961 as TS82030 and the first number in 1962 as > TS82340; which looks like only 310 cars. But he does mention that many cars > were finished out of sequence, so perhaps the difference is earlier cars > that required rework or something like that. Also 1961 just happened to be the year when Standard-Triumph was bought by Leyland Motors. For a quite prolonged period, there was no production on any cars at all as the company was effectively bankrupt and Leyland were busily engaged in sorting out the financial chaos that prevailed. In addition, many suppliers had put the company on their "Stop" lists so no components were being delivered until accounts were cleared and new credit arrangements made. As for the sequencing of commission numbers, very few cars ever were built in numerical sequence. Commission numbers were allocated by Production Control eight weeks before the car appeared on the paint line - so that is the first fragmentation. Second fragmentation was *Track Loading.* There were 3 assembly tracks for the whole model range (so you build the majority vehicles first) and third fragmentation was determined by supplier componenty. There were other fragmentations caused by Letter of Credit delays for export cars and of course, strikes that screwed up everything. Wouldn't surprise me at all if 1961 saw a very small number of TR's built for anywhere. There wasn't much of anything else built either - except a lot of Heralds for the UK market which the dealers couldn't sell :) Jonmac From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 10 17:20:07 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 16:20:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Harmonic Balancer for TR-4? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090410232004.QASB5844.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Others, however, think I > should upgrade to a harmonic balancer. IMO it depends on your intended usage. For street operation at normal rpm, IMO the "balancer" (which is a misnomer, it's really a harmonic vibration damper) is not required. I've run my street TR3A that way for almost 20 years, and the only problems related to it were because I didn't use Rick's kit. OTOH if you plan to spend much time at all above 5200 rpm or so, then it's probably cheap insurance. There is supposedly a resonance point up there somewhere, where the harmonic vibrations will build up and cause extra stress in the crank. Those vibrations combined with the much higher forces at high rpm (plus higher output from a heavily modified motor) can and do cause crankshafts to break. > If I decide to go to a > harmonic balancer how do I find one to fit? Does anyone on > the list know of a direct fit harmonic balancer for the TR-4? Dampers are available from most of the vintage race suppliers. One source is British Frame and Engine http://www.britishframeandengine.com It's also possible to use the dampener from a MGB, but requires a spacer and special seal to do so. And it's not clear how well the MG dampener meets the needs of the TRactor motor. > What issues should I > expect in converting? All of the dampers I know of require converting to a narrow fan belt. That means a different water pump pulley (and a water pump where the pulley is removable, some aftermarket pumps are not). Also a different pulley for the generator or alternator. Not difficult issues of course, just more things to be dealt with. Randall From rbtr3a at cox.net Fri Apr 10 18:19:11 2009 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 00:19:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Tr4a coming up B Jackson Message-ID: <930796369-1239409130-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-841933940-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> There is a TR4A coming up on Barrett Jackson Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed From rbtr3a at cox.net Fri Apr 10 19:00:01 2009 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 01:00:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Tr4a coming up B Jackson Message-ID: <908592366-1239411581-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1945454117-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> 34K beautiful car ------Original Message------ From: Ronnie Babbitt Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: Triumphs ReplyTo: Ronnie Babbitt Subject: [TR] Tr4a coming up B Jackson Sent: Apr 10, 2009 8:19 PM There is a TR4A coming up on Barrett Jackson Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as rbtr3a at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed From tr4boy at surewest.net Fri Apr 10 19:23:03 2009 From: tr4boy at surewest.net (Greg Schuett) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 18:23:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Harmonic Balancer for TR-4? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9A7CC9F92E0F49179035EE5A8FA4E10E@Kitchen> Tim, Thanks, that's just the kind of information I'm after! Since the engine rarely sees greater than 4,000 rpm, I bet it won't be a problem. Thanks for the quick and useful answer! Greg _____ From: KingsCreekTrees at aol.com [mailto:KingsCreekTrees at aol.com] Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 4:57 PM To: tr4boy at surewest.net Subject: Re: [TR] Harmonic Balancer for TR-4? Hi Greg; Ref the harmonic balancer: I was thinking of fitting an electric fan to my TR3A last year and getting rid of the standard one. A few people said "don't do it; the fan is a harmonic balancer and it should not be removed". I then got in touch with a bunch of TR racer guys in the UK that I know quite well (I used to live there) and they told me this rumour of requiring a harmonic balancer is a load of old rubbish; they have TR3A racing cars. All of them have the standard fan removed and an electric one instead. None of the engines have ever demonstrated any form of vibration or coming apart as a result of the fan removal/lack of a harmonic balancer. Given that they race their cars and the engines are therefore subject to immense stress, personally I believe them. I just thought I'd throw that into the equation. I'm obviously not going to guarantee that it's not a problem, but the evidence seems pretty overwhelming to me. I hope that helps a bit, anyway. Tim '57 TR3A, '65 Volvo PV544 Sport, '91 Mustang convertible, '51 Chev 3-ton Tim Dyer, Proprietor Kings Creek Trees and Ornamentals 427 Kings Creek Road, RR3 Ashton, Ontario, K0A 1B0, Canada Phone/fax: 613 253 4126 Website: www.kingscreektrees.com Proud member of Landscape Ontario (the Ontario association of Green Industry professionals) and the Canadian Nursery Landscape Association From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Apr 10 22:26:14 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 00:26:14 EDT Subject: [TR] Harmonic Balancer for TR-4? Message-ID: In a message dated 4/10/2009 4:21:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: IMO it depends on your intended usage. For street operation at normal rpm, IMO the "balancer" (which is a misnomer, it's really a harmonic vibration damper) is not required. I've run my street TR3A that way for almost 20 years, and the only problems related to it were because I didn't use Rick's kit. OTOH if you plan to spend much time at all above 5200 rpm or so, then it's probably cheap insurance. There is supposedly a resonance point up there somewhere, where the harmonic vibrations will build up and cause extra stress in the crank. Those vibrations combined with the much higher forces at high rpm (plus higher output from a heavily modified motor) can and do cause crankshafts to break. > If I decide to go to a > harmonic balancer how do I find one to fit? Does anyone on > the list know of a direct fit harmonic balancer for the TR-4? Dampers are available from most of the vintage race suppliers. One source is British Frame and Engine http://www.britishframeandengine.com It's also possible to use the dampener from a MGB, but requires a spacer and special seal to do so. And it's not clear how well the MG dampener meets the needs of the TRactor motor. > What issues should I > expect in converting? All of the dampers I know of require converting to a narrow fan belt. That means a different water pump pulley (and a water pump where the pulley is removable, some aftermarket pumps are not). Also a different pulley for the generator or alternator. Not difficult issues of course, just more things to be dealt with. Randall _______________________________________________ Several years ago, the Triumph Register had a series of articles about crankshafts (most famously Ian Evans crankshaft) breaking at low RPM, and totally unexpectedly. I do not remember all the conclusions, but I do remember I was happy I left my factory (crankshaft) fan on when I installed my Kenlowe electric fan. Best, Mike Moore From jgillis at tcd.ie Sat Apr 11 03:54:35 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 10:54:35 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails Message-ID: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> Hello all- I bought my seat rails off E-Bay in a box as I had none to speak of. I managed to figure out how it all goes together except for which side the rail with the adjustment lever goes, is it inside, i.e gearbox tunnel side or outside, i.e door side?. Thanks in advance John 1954 TR2 (long door) From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Apr 11 05:16:33 2009 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 07:16:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails In-Reply-To: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <49E043D1.2261.22B4672A@localhost> On 11 Apr 2009 at 10:54, John Gillis wrote: > I bought my seat rails off E-Bay in a box as I had > none to speak of. Couldn't you have obtained a box locally? -- Wondering if this is related to the battery box discussion, -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Apr 11 05:47:03 2009 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 07:47:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails In-Reply-To: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> References: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <6fa72a770904110447x2029f35cr52f7b68539cac8f1@mail.gmail.com> hi John The adjuster lever on my seats rest against the transmission tunnel On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 5:54 AM, John Gillis wrote: > Hello all- I bought my seat rails off E-Bay in a box as I had none to speak > of. I managed to figure out how it all goes together except for which side > the rail with the adjustment lever goes, is it inside, i.e gearbox tunnel > side or outside, i.e door side?. > Thanks in advance > John > 1954 TR2 (long door) From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Apr 11 05:54:59 2009 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 07:54:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770904110447x2029f35cr52f7b68539cac8f1@mail.gmail.com> References: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> <6fa72a770904110447x2029f35cr52f7b68539cac8f1@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <6fa72a770904110454n70e8f5c6xb58f7f9360a43eb3@mail.gmail.com> pressed send too fast - my adjuster lever sits near the transmission tunnel. I just now took a picture to give you a better view and I now recall it was quite hard to get my fingers around. Mine could be wrong. Sorry to provide wishy washy info...... Chris On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 7:47 AM, Chris Simo wrote: > hi John > > The adjuster lever on my seats rest against the transmission tunnel > > On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 5:54 AM, John Gillis wrote: > >> Hello all- I bought my seat rails off E-Bay in a box as I had none to >> speak of. I managed to figure out how it all goes together except for which >> side the rail with the adjustment lever goes, is it inside, i.e gearbox >> tunnel side or outside, i.e door side?. >> Thanks in advance >> John >> 1954 TR2 (long door) [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of seat tr2.JPG] From jgillis at tcd.ie Sat Apr 11 06:09:54 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 13:09:54 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770904110454n70e8f5c6xb58f7f9360a43eb3@mail.gmail.com> References: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> <6fa72a770904110447x2029f35cr52f7b68539cac8f1@mail.gmail.com> <6fa72a770904110454n70e8f5c6xb58f7f9360a43eb3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <867B3A46-BA2D-4297-B8D9-8EA6F044420F@tcd.ie> That is anything but wishy washy, because I presumed the lever would be to the front of the seat, not to the rear, so your photo has probably saved me lots of unnecessary hassle. regards John On 11 Apr 2009, at 12:54, Chris Simo wrote: > pressed send too fast - my adjuster lever sits near the > transmission tunnel. I just now took a picture to give you a better > view and I now recall it was quite hard to get my fingers around. > Mine could be wrong. > > Sorry to provide wishy washy info...... > > Chris > > On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 7:47 AM, Chris Simo > wrote: > hi John > > The adjuster lever on my seats rest against the transmission tunnel > > On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 5:54 AM, John Gillis wrote: > Hello all- I bought my seat rails off E-Bay in a box as I had none > to speak of. I managed to figure out how it all goes together except > for which side the rail with the adjustment lever goes, is it > inside, i.e gearbox tunnel side or outside, i.e door side?. > Thanks in advance > John > 1954 TR2 (long door) > > From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Apr 11 09:14:49 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 08:14:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 Roadster 4sale References: Message-ID: <006901c9bab8$41bc5460$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Found this by accident. Triumph 2000 Roadster, very nice, out of my league. http://www.vast.com/detail/cars/ob-N7sTu5m7i7S5yLm2u7BBDbZ7e2BDPZ23Tb0R0ADQjYYM/?ivp=\N&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12160 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From L1J1S at aol.com Sat Apr 11 06:35:29 2009 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 08:35:29 EDT Subject: [TR] B/J tr4 Message-ID: hello, i would have to say the seller took a big left hook to his chin. with a kurt tanner restoration , i am guessing the seller had $75,000.00 invested into that car. larry chwrtz **************Hurry! April 15th is almost here. File your Federal taxes FREE with TaxACT. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221653545x1201423923/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.taxact.com%2F08tax.asp%3Fsc%3D084102950004%26p%3D8 2) From rbtr3a at cox.net Sat Apr 11 07:26:46 2009 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 13:26:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] B/J tr4 Message-ID: <655125612-1239456386-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-828028305-@bxe1008.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> It was a beautiful car. Their had to be at least that much in the car. It was one of the best triumphs I've ever seen on BJ ------Original Message------ From: L1J1S at aol.com Sender: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] B/J tr4 Sent: Apr 11, 2009 8:35 AM hello, i would have to say the seller took a big left hook to his chin. with a kurt tanner restoration , i am guessing the seller had $75,000.00 invested into that car. larry chwrtz **************Hurry! April 15th is almost here. File your Federal taxes FREE with TaxACT. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221653545x1201423923/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.taxact.com%2F08tax.asp%3Fsc%3D084102950004%26p%3D8 2) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as rbtr3a at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with SprintSpeed From Loumetelko at aol.com Sat Apr 11 10:49:51 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 12:49:51 EDT Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails Message-ID: In a message dated 4/11/2009 8:10:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jgillis at tcd.ie writes: > . I managed to figure out how it all goes together except > for which side the rail with the adjustment lever goes, is it > inside, i.e gearbox tunnel side or outside, i.e door side?. > Thanks in advance > John > 1954 TR2 (long door) John: According to TRA's guide "The seat slides were mounted to the body with cadmium plated slotted body bolts, with the lock release lever assembly mounted on the outboard side. This lever is marked "A. W. Chapment / Leveroll / London S. W.6". Hurry up John, real spring is about three weeks away! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From wbeech at flash.net Sun Apr 12 10:58:18 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 10:58:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails In-Reply-To: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <823525.15396.bm@omp413.mail.mud.yahoo.com> John, According to the TRA Judging guide: "...clear cadmium plated seat slide assemblies......the lock release level assembley mounted on the outboard slide" I don't find any notations of changes through various production years. All the best, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 3:55 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails Hello all- I bought my seat rails off E-Bay in a box as I had none to speak of. I managed to figure out how it all goes together except for which side the rail with the adjustment lever goes, is it inside, i.e gearbox tunnel side or outside, i.e door side?. Thanks in advance John 1954 TR2 (long door) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sat Apr 11 12:27:10 2009 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:27:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A for sale. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0KHY002NK5P33QXG@vms173019.mailsrvcs.net> At 03:04 AM 4/9/2009, tom white wrote: >A friend sent me this link. > >http://www.nwicars.com/09011.htm > >Best regards, >Tom I hope he has an inop gauge: the tach shows 1200 but 0 oil pressure. -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 96% finished, 90% to go From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 11 11:37:05 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 10:37:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails In-Reply-To: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20090411173701.FNAL6222.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > I managed to figure out how it all goes > together except for which side the rail with the adjustment > lever goes, is it inside, i.e gearbox tunnel side or outside, > i.e door side?. Bill Piggott also mentions that the adjustment lever goes towards the outside, ie near the door. Randall From jgillis at tcd.ie Sat Apr 11 11:50:00 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:50:00 +0100 Subject: [TR] Seat Rail conclusion Message-ID: <96B9BDB2-5F60-4ED5-9297-3C0D0E5085C6@tcd.ie> Thanks all now fitted, rather reluctant to slide, but they are an original set that have been cleaned and painted, so a bit pitted and rough in places. The other thing, you know that line about if you presume - it makes an ass of you and me, well I did and never thought to ask which way the rails bolt to the floor, i.e with the screws on the inside or outside of the L bracket, of course I picked the wrong one, but eventually figured it. I guessing I should be somewhat quicker with the second seat. Perfect advice as usual John and his Irish TR ;-) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 11 12:27:29 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 11:27:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Seat Rail conclusion In-Reply-To: <96B9BDB2-5F60-4ED5-9297-3C0D0E5085C6@tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20090411182725.GZUE12747.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > rather reluctant to slide, Something I overlooked for many years, and still don't quite know how to solve : there is a certain amount of play in the captive nuts in the floor, which means the floor slides can be installed in slightly different positions. If they don't line up well with the mating slides on the seats, then they will bind. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Sat Apr 11 12:37:27 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:37:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 Roadster 4sale In-Reply-To: <006901c9bab8$41bc5460$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <1192541250.439431239475047170.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I love the part about the automatic transmission, CD, Clock, Halogen Headlights, Intermittent Wipers, Leather Interior, Premium Wheels Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Bob" wrote: > From: "Bob" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:14:49 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 Roadster 4sale > > Found this by accident. > Triumph 2000 Roadster, very nice, out of my league. > http://www.vast.com/detail/cars/ob-N7sTu5m7i7S5yLm2u7BBDbZ7e2BDPZ23Tb0R0ADQjYYM/?ivp=\N&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc From pethier at comcast.net Sat Apr 11 12:37:27 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:37:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 Roadster 4sale In-Reply-To: <006901c9bab8$41bc5460$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <1192541250.439431239475047170.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I love the part about the automatic transmission, CD, Clock, Halogen Headlights, Intermittent Wipers, Leather Interior, Premium Wheels Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Bob" wrote: > From: "Bob" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 10:14:49 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000 Roadster 4sale > > Found this by accident. > Triumph 2000 Roadster, very nice, out of my league. > http://www.vast.com/detail/cars/ob-N7sTu5m7i7S5yLm2u7BBDbZ7e2BDPZ23Tb0R0ADQjYYM/?ivp=\N&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Sat Apr 11 15:20:15 2009 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 14:20:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? Message-ID: <9FB86F76BE9A4121A455B8FC52BFD5C0@paulal73q2sjay> I recently rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders on my 64 TR4. It seems that my clutch engages late in the pedal travel, that is, when the pedal is almost out. Which way would I adjust the slave rod to make the clutch engage a little sooner when I let out the pedal? And which hole should the rod be connected to? ("Recently" means a year or two ago as I rarely get to drive it much anymore). Paul W. Torrance, CA 1964 TR4 1956 TR3 From rcrabbe at sympatico.ca Sat Apr 11 16:11:53 2009 From: rcrabbe at sympatico.ca (Richard Crabbe) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 18:11:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dash instruction sheet. Message-ID: Does anyone have a copy of the instruction booklet that came with a dash from Prestige Autotrim. I bought a dash last year and am now ready to replace the old one and have misplaced the sheet. I suppose I could do it without, however I remember reading it and it was very self explanatory step by step. I have attempted to go on their web site but it really doesn't exist except for a sheet about what they offer. Thanks Crabby From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Apr 11 17:52:55 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 19:52:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dash instruction sheet. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <98A9DE1FF9C94ED69430A2742031E97C@BOBSNEWPC> Crabby.......it's been 10 years since I did mine so I'm working from memory and 3 things stand out. 1. If you still have to drill the hinge holes for the glove box door, put some masking tape on the wood where you have to drill or you can get a "star crack" in the finish. Also start with a very small drill and step drill up to the needed size. The finish is very thick and very hard. 2. Tighten the dash screws like you'd tighten a cylinder head.... A little at a time and in a balanced pattern. Don't over tighten the screws as the metal dash probably isn't perfectly flat and if you try to really get the wood dash tight to it, you may bend it and crack the finish. 3. Around the glove box door opening, use thin wood wedges between the wood and metal dash to get the door lined up when it's closed. I probably have 1/16" - 1/8" wood spacers lining it all up. After 10 years mine looks as good as the day I installed it. Randy does beautiful work. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Crabbe Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 6:12 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Dash instruction sheet. Does anyone have a copy of the instruction booklet that came with a dash from Prestige Autotrim. I bought a dash last year and am now ready to replace the old one and have misplaced the sheet. I suppose I could do it without, however I remember reading it and it was very self explanatory step by step. I have attempted to go on their web site but it really doesn't exist except for a sheet about what they offer. Thanks Crabby This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From jhassall at blacksburg.net Sat Apr 11 20:46:47 2009 From: jhassall at blacksburg.net (J.C. Hassall) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:46:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? In-Reply-To: <9FB86F76BE9A4121A455B8FC52BFD5C0@paulal73q2sjay> References: <9FB86F76BE9A4121A455B8FC52BFD5C0@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: <0KHY00HE1STSGEFJ@vms173017.mailsrvcs.net> At 05:20 PM 4/11/2009, Paul Willoughby wrote: >I recently rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders on my 64 TR4. It >seems that my clutch engages late in the pedal travel, that is, when the pedal >is almost out. Which way would I adjust the slave rod to make the clutch >engage a little sooner when I let out the pedal? And which hole should the >rod be connected to? The pin should go thru the middle hole, although you can get faster clutch action (and more pedal effort) in the top hole. The adjustment procedure is to loosen the nut and unscrew the rod until there is no clearance between the push rod and the operating piston cup. Then adjust the jam nut until a 0.1 gap exists between the clevis fork and the nut. Without moving the jam nut, screw the push rod into the clevis until the nut contacts the clevis face, then tighten the nut. >("Recently" means a year or two ago as I rarely get to drive it much >anymore). > >Paul W. >Torrance, CA >1964 TR4 >1956 TR3 >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as jhassall at blacksburg.net > >http://www.team.net/archive -- J.C. Hassall Blacksburg VA '63 TR4 in autox preparation 96% finished, 90% to From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Apr 11 19:54:31 2009 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:54:31 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Dash instruction sheet. Message-ID: <283352192.39935541239501271197.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Richard, I see Bob replied. I have the sheet. If you want a copy, contact me at: TheNicholls at Verizon.Net . Thanks, Craig On Sat, Apr 11, 2009 at 6:11 PM, Richard Crabbe wrote: > Does anyone have a copy of the instruction booklet that came with a > dash > from Prestige Autotrim. > I bought a dash last year and am now ready to replace the old one and > have > misplaced the sheet. > I suppose I could do it without, however I remember reading it and it > was > very self explanatory step by step. > I have attempted to go on their web site but it really doesn't exist > except > for a sheet about what they offer. > > Thanks > > Crabby > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 11 22:19:38 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 21:19:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? In-Reply-To: <9FB86F76BE9A4121A455B8FC52BFD5C0@paulal73q2sjay> Message-ID: <20090412041933.QIAS6222.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > It seems that my clutch engages late in the pedal > travel, that is, when the pedal is almost out. Which way > would I adjust the slave rod to make the clutch engage a > little sooner when I let out the pedal? More freeplay at the slave will cause the clutch to engage closer to the floor. > And which hole > should the rod be connected to? The middle hole is correct. Randall From jgillis at tcd.ie Sun Apr 12 03:14:09 2009 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 10:14:09 +0100 Subject: [TR] seat rails and another thing Message-ID: While the iron is hot, can I ask the correct diameter for the seal for the trailing edge of the door, mine being early TR2 is the fabric/ leather covered "tube" with the extra material attaching behind the wheelarch panel. The one supplied by my trimmer is very thick, over 3/4" and is a length of hosing I guess, but when the door closes it is put under serious pressure and is also sits very close to the door catch. John 1954 TR2 (long door) From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Apr 12 06:42:57 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 12:42:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <508862146.1003801239540177847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Have been carrying around a toolbox of select items in a toolbox in the trunk.B Slides around a bit or competes with the top and side curtains for space.B For awhile I kept it in the passenger footwell.B Just curious, has anybody found an optimum method for this?B Maybe a cloth bag or a special sized box? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From Loumetelko at aol.com Sun Apr 12 08:36:25 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 10:36:25 EDT Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox Message-ID: In a message dated 4/12/2009 8:49:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Have been carrying around a toolbox of select items in a toolbox in the trunk.B Slides around a bit or competes with the top and side curtains for space.B For awhile I kept it in the passenger footwell.B For years I have used a 7" X 12" plastic shoe box with a snap on lid. Surprising amount of small hand tools will fit and when placed on a folded bath towel will not slide around. A 2' cloth bag with zipper and handle holds spare parts, jack, breaker bar, etc. completes my "carry on". If it can't fit in the shoe box or bag it isn't worth taking. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana _______________________________________________ **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sun Apr 12 09:47:07 2009 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 10:47:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox Message-ID: <380-22009401215477593@earthlink.net> Terry, In my TR3, I used a round plastic oil drain pan placed in the center of the spare tire. It is surprising how many things you can fit in there. Greg Gelhar > Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox > Have been carrying around a toolbox of select items in a toolbox in the > trunk.B Slides around a bit or competes with the top and side curtains for > space.B For awhile I kept it in the passenger footwell.B > Just curious, has anybody found an optimum method for this?B Maybe a cloth > bag or a special sized box? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 From davidt at opentext.com Sun Apr 12 09:55:55 2009 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 11:55:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ping test Message-ID: From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Sun Apr 12 10:42:17 2009 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 09:42:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? References: <9FB86F76BE9A4121A455B8FC52BFD5C0@paulal73q2sjay> <0KHY00HE1STSGEFJ@vms173017.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: Should there be play in the clutch lever? When I remove the slave rod, there seems to be 1/8" to 1/4" back and forth play in the clutch lever. ----- Original Message ----- From: "J.C. Hassall" To: "Paul Willoughby" ; Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 7:46 PM > At 05:20 PM 4/11/2009, Paul Willoughby wrote: >>I recently rebuilt the clutch master and slave cylinders on my 64 TR4. It >>seems that my clutch engages late in the pedal travel, that is, when the >>pedal >>is almost out. Which way would I adjust the slave rod to make the clutch >>engage a little sooner when I let out the pedal? And which hole should >>the >>rod be connected to? > > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? >The pin should go thru the middle hole, although you can get faster clutch >action (and more pedal effort) in the top hole. > > The adjustment procedure is to loosen the nut and unscrew the rod until > there is no clearance between the push rod and the operating piston cup. > Then adjust the jam nut until a 0.1 gap exists between the clevis fork and > the nut. Without moving the jam nut, screw the push rod into the clevis > until the nut contacts the clevis face, then tighten the nut. > > >>("Recently" means a year or two ago as I rarely get to drive it much >>anymore). >> >>Paul W. >>Torrance, CA >>1964 TR4 >>1956 TR3 From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Sun Apr 12 11:42:26 2009 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 13:42:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 167 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3EA35590-B8FC-443C-A53B-3C1ABFAE3E2E@mgcarclub.com> The previous replies are correct but I envision it a little differently. First we should be talking about the TR3, TR4 coil spring, three finger pressure plate, not the diaphragm pressure plate of the 4A and 6. There should also be a return spring from the lever to the slave cylinder mount. Unscrewing the push rod from the clevis will move the throw out bearing up to the clutch fingers so that there is no freeplay at the throw out bearing or the push rod and slave cylinder piston. Set the lock nut 1/10" from the clevis and screw in the push rod as stated before. This pulls the throw out bearing away from the pressure plate fingers. The return spring keeps it there until you push on the clutch pedal. Allen On Apr 12, 2009, at 2:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 09:42:17 -0700 > From: "Paul Willoughby" > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? > To: > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=response > > Should there be play in the clutch lever? When I remove the slave > rod, > there seems to be 1/8" to 1/4" back and forth play in the clutch > lever. > >> >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? >> The pin should go thru the middle hole, although you can get faster >> clutch >> action (and more pedal effort) in the top hole. >> >> The adjustment procedure is to loosen the nut and unscrew the rod >> until >> there is no clearance between the push rod and the operating piston >> cup. >> Then adjust the jam nut until a 0.1 gap exists between the clevis >> fork and >> the nut. Without moving the jam nut, screw the push rod into the >> clevis >> until the nut contacts the clevis face, then tighten the nut. From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Apr 12 12:57:40 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 11:57:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <508862146.1003801239540177847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <508862146.1003801239540177847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <131603F62BD545B2B95450A022C739F7@JimofficePC> Before I sold my TR3 and I was still driving it to shows, very often some fairly long distances, I built a false floor for the trunk. I used ~3/8 plywood for the floor, a piece of 3/4 pine about 2 1/2 high and 24 inches long to support the false floor just behind the gas tank cover and two appropriately placed and sized blocks made from 2 X 4, for the rear supports. To determine where to place the rear supports, I put the side curtains on the empty trunk floor then I placed the front support against the gas tank cover, then the two rear supports so that the side curtains were protected by any reasonable loads that I might place on the false floor. I screwed the plywood to the three supports with dry wall screws. The false floor supports rested directly on the trunk floor covering. I was able then to place the floor on top of the side curtains and not worry about damaging them. I had a fairly heavy steel Craftsman tool box that I placed in a custom made cardboard box to protect the inside of the trunk from the tool box if it was to move around. But on a long trip the trunk was full anyway! So I didn't have worry about that too much in any case. However, I almost always used a blanket to protect the inside of the trunk. I drove the TR3 up and down the Pacific coast 2 or 3 times to Triumphest and the All Triumph Drive-In in Vancouver, BC and the side curtains never suffered from these long trips! Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 5:43 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox Have been carrying around a toolbox of select items in a toolbox in the trunk.B Slides around a bit or competes with the top and side curtains for space.B For awhile I kept it in the passenger footwell.B Just curious, has anybody found an optimum method for this?B Maybe a cloth bag or a special sized box? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Apr 12 13:28:21 2009 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 12:28:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <131603F62BD545B2B95450A022C739F7@JimofficePC> References: <508862146.1003801239540177847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <131603F62BD545B2B95450A022C739F7@JimofficePC> Message-ID: Now that is a GREAT idea!!!!!!!!! There is always a lack of space in the TR3's and what a way to use that useless space, and I don't believe anyone would notice if you had a carpet there after removing the side curtains for a show. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 12 16:16:39 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 15:16:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090412221634.CFKW5844.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Should there be play in the clutch lever? When I remove the > slave rod, there seems to be 1/8" to 1/4" back and forth play > in the clutch lever. Yes. Without the slave pushrod to hold the TOB up to the pressure plate inside, the lever should be able to move towards the slave cylinder by a fair amount. I would have said it was more than 1/4", but haven't actually measured it. What it's doing is pulling the TOB & carrier away from the pressure plate, until it hits the front cover of the gearbox. Likely the amount of play also depends on how worn the clutch is, since the PP fingers will rise somewhat higher with a worn friction plate. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 12 16:19:46 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 15:19:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <131603F62BD545B2B95450A022C739F7@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <20090412221941.CEJY6222.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> One of our local club members built a storage compartment to replace the rear "occasional" seat. Basically just boxed in the area beneath it, and rigged the seat itself to lift on hinges (and lock closed). I thought he would chime in here, but maybe he doesn't read the list any more. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Apr 12 16:27:08 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 15:27:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: References: <508862146.1003801239540177847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <131603F62BD545B2B95450A022C739F7@JimofficePC> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904121527y73c49ffbuc32f4a401d634534@mail.gmail.com> I carry way more tools & parts than anyone I know so I have to have some ways to pack it all in. I use (3) of these tool bags from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35539 One each for electrical&ignition, fuel&coolant and tools&sealants. I too made a false boot floor for covering the nested side curtains so weight could be placed on top of them: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Boot%20Floor.JPG Also have something similar in the TR4 (for the top): http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox2.JPG Geo From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Apr 12 16:29:50 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 15:29:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <20090412221941.CEJY6222.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <131603F62BD545B2B95450A022C739F7@JimofficePC> <20090412221941.CEJY6222.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Now that is clever! Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 3:20 PM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] TR Toolbox One of our local club members built a storage compartment to replace the rear "occasional" seat. Basically just boxed in the area beneath it, and rigged the seat itself to lift on hinges (and lock closed). I thought he would chime in here, but maybe he doesn't read the list any more. Randall Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Apr 12 17:13:45 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 16:13:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0904121527y73c49ffbuc32f4a401d634534@mail.gmail.com> References: <508862146.1003801239540177847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net><131603F62BD545B2B95450A022C739F7@JimofficePC> <7bb181af0904121527y73c49ffbuc32f4a401d634534@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <6B46B7C0B97A40289391D13B9938B2F7@JimofficePC> Geo, Your false floor and TR4 'box' are way more beautiful than mine was!! Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 3:27 PM To: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR Toolbox I carry way more tools & parts than anyone I know so I have to have some ways to pack it all in. I use (3) of these tool bags from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=35539 One each for electrical&ignition, fuel&coolant and tools&sealants. I too made a false boot floor for covering the nested side curtains so weight could be placed on top of them: http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Boot%20Floor.JPG Also have something similar in the TR4 (for the top): http://members.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/bootbox2.JPG Geo Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 12 17:16:26 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 19:16:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Car Show & TV Show Message-ID: <85E9754AE94446819AF817A32B21874A@BOBSNEWPC> They be filming an episode of Chasing Classic Cars at this car show. If you're in the 6-Pack or BCF Forum you should have already seen this but if not.......... here's your chance to attend a great show and maybe get your car in an episode of Chasing Classic Cars. F40 Motorsports http://www.f40.com/ is about 4 miles from the bridge in Middletown CT on route 66 (Cobalt Rd) and very easy to get to. Plus he has some very cool cars in his showroom. Unfortunately, I'll be attending my granddaughter's first communion in Maryland on that day. Let's have a Triumph invasion and hopefully get some cars on the TV show! Here's what his site says: "Open House at F40 Motor Sports. Spring is here what better way to kick off the spring/summer than F40 Motor Sports Annual open house. We will be filming a show for "Chasing Classic Cars" Bring your beautiful Automobiles and come admire others. Starts at 10AM and goes until 3PM. It is open to the public, and we look forward to seeing everyone at our open house. Subject to change due to weather condition, will post if the date changes. " Bob....... bummed cuz he can't attend! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Apr 12 18:55:56 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 00:55:56 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Side Curtain Adjustment In-Reply-To: <85E9754AE94446819AF817A32B21874A@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <581954010.1152151239584156779.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> I had the side curtains covered before I had the body finished, and now there is a three inch gap between the top of the curtain and the edge of the top.B How the heck does one adjust curtains? Terry Smith, '59 TR3AB TS 58667 New Hampshire (and drivingB it to work for the first time this season tomorrow!) From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Apr 12 20:34:30 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 22:34:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum Message-ID: <05FCDDE98A41473EAE27AE3F1F9DFF41@Scott> Well, I got the new rear cylinder installed in my '59 TR3, but have encountered a problem that I am scratching my head over. Before I needed to replace the right rear brake cylinder, my wheel/brake drum turned freely. Now since I replaced the cylinder, I can barely get the drum on and once on, you cannot spin the shaft due to the shoes being so tight on the drum. I have changed nothing else, measured the piston against the old cylinder, and although the pistons have a different shape, the measurements seem to be the same. The adjuster wedges are also fully in. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this problem? I can try installing the old cylinder after rebuilding it or I could have the drum shaved down a bit. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 13 21:12:43 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:12:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <184269.84389.bm@omp422.mail.mud.yahoo.com> For us who have yet to get on the road, but still hope for this summer... Just what does everyone put in their tool box for daily driving or a longer trip? For tools I would think: 2 quarts of oil, 2 gallons of water, 3/16-5/8 comb wrench, hammer, jack, crank, visegrips, electrical tape, safety wire. For spares maybe: Hoses, clamps, fan belt, fuses. All this along with some common sense and a prayerbook? Feel free to add to the list, should be interesting just how much junk we have in the trunk as we motor down the road. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 8:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR Toolbox In a message dated 4/12/2009 8:49:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Have been carrying around a toolbox of select items in a toolbox in the trunk.B Slides around a bit or competes with the top and side curtains for space.B For awhile I kept it in the passenger footwell.B For years I have used a 7" X 12" plastic shoe box with a snap on lid. Surprising amount of small hand tools will fit and when placed on a folded bath towel will not slide around. A 2' cloth bag with zipper and handle holds spare parts, jack, breaker bar, etc. completes my "carry on". If it can't fit in the shoe box or bag it isn't worth taking. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana _______________________________________________ **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 1:28 PM To: Jim Bauder Cc: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] TR Toolbox Now that is a GREAT idea!!!!!!!!! There is always a lack of space in the TR3's and what a way to use that useless space, and I don't believe anyone would notice if you had a carpet there after removing the side curtains for a show. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 13 21:12:43 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:12:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <787442.66764.bm@omp415.mail.mud.yahoo.com> For us who have yet to get on the road, but still hope for this summer... Just what does everyone put in their tool box for daily driving or a longer trip? For tools I would think: 2 quarts of oil, 2 gallons of water, 3/16-5/8 comb wrench, hammer, jack, crank, visegrips, electrical tape, safety wire. For spares maybe: Hoses, clamps, fan belt, fuses. All this along with some common sense and a prayerbook? Feel free to add to the list, should be interesting just how much junk we have in the trunk as we motor down the road. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 8:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR Toolbox In a message dated 4/12/2009 8:49:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Have been carrying around a toolbox of select items in a toolbox in the trunk.B Slides around a bit or competes with the top and side curtains for space.B For awhile I kept it in the passenger footwell.B For years I have used a 7" X 12" plastic shoe box with a snap on lid. Surprising amount of small hand tools will fit and when placed on a folded bath towel will not slide around. A 2' cloth bag with zipper and handle holds spare parts, jack, breaker bar, etc. completes my "carry on". If it can't fit in the shoe box or bag it isn't worth taking. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana _______________________________________________ **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Apr 12 21:12:19 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 20:12:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: <05FCDDE98A41473EAE27AE3F1F9DFF41@Scott> References: <05FCDDE98A41473EAE27AE3F1F9DFF41@Scott> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904122012l716b67faw257829d34d0cd087@mail.gmail.com> I wouldn't favor turning the drum just to fit it -- if it is a 10" drum that is fairly rare and expensive metal to just scrape away. Have you backed off the adjustment screw? This might allow for whatever small difference you may have in the new cylinder. From pethier at comcast.net Sun Apr 12 21:37:40 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 03:37:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <787442.66764.bm@omp415.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1694235077.754291239593860656.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I carry the "Old Man's Tool Kit": A cell phone and a Triple-A card. Seriously, just a few hand tools and a spare inner tube. Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L 1979 Caterham 7 1993 Suburban 1994 Miata C-package 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier ----- "Wbeech at flash.net" wrote: > From: "Wbeech at flash.net" > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 10:12:43 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] TR Toolbox > > For us who have yet to get on the road, but still hope for this > summer... > Just what does everyone put in their tool box for daily driving or a > longer > trip? > > For tools I would think: > 2 quarts of oil, 2 gallons of water, 3/16-5/8 comb wrench, hammer, > jack, > crank, visegrips, electrical tape, safety wire. > > For spares maybe: > Hoses, clamps, fan belt, fuses. > > All this along with some common sense and a prayerbook? Feel free to > add to > the list, should be interesting just how much junk we have in the > trunk as > we motor down the road. From wbeech at flash.net Mon Apr 13 22:13:57 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:13:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0904122012l716b67faw257829d34d0cd087@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <530887.14036.bm@omp414.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If you have verified that the adjustment is 100% compressed, you might try taking a little off the leading and trailing edges of the linings. Maybe a 1/16", sometimes the ends protrude just a little and can cause a problem. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 9:12 PM To: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum I wouldn't favor turning the drum just to fit it -- if it is a 10" drum that is fairly rare and expensive metal to just scrape away. Have you backed off the adjustment screw? This might allow for whatever small difference you may have in the new cylinder. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Apr 12 22:20:52 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 21:20:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <787442.66764.bm@omp415.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20090413042046.JRST6222.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > For tools I would think: > 2 quarts of oil, 2 gallons of water, 3/16-5/8 comb wrench, > hammer, jack, crank, visegrips, electrical tape, safety wire. My feeling is that oil and water are fairly easy to come by, so I only carry one of each. My combination wrenches are GearWrenches. Don't usually bother with a hammer or crank (unless you mean the handle for the jack). Duct tape instead of electrical tape (it will insulate in a pinch). Other tools: . "Pocket" DMM, plus 2 clip leads . SU Tool kit . Set of Whitworth open end wrenches . Screwdrivers; large, small and stubby; flat and Phillips. Make sure one of them will fit the dizzy cap terminals. . Combination tool with feeler gauges and spark plug gauges, plus tool for adjusting spark plugs. . "Gas" pliers . Chain-nose pliers . Small Diagonal cutters ("dikes") . Contact burnishing tool . Two flashlights (smaller one in door pocket, larger one in tool box). Nothing more aggravating than to find out the light doesn't work, on a dark road somewhere. . "Tinker" model Swiss Army knife (I carry this in my pocket all the time). . Small 3-corner file, with one end ground to a 3-sided point so it doubles as a scribe and awl. . Lug wrench . Tool to remove hubcaps (I had TR3 hubcaps mounted on TR6 wheels, took a custom tool to get them off). . Tool to remove and install headlight trim rings . Don't forget the T-handle. > For spares maybe: > Hoses, clamps, fan belt, fuses. . Brake fluid . Assortment of plastic tie wraps . Facet-type electric fuel pump, plus fittings and 2-3' of fuel line. . Set of new spark plugs . For longer trips, a distributor loaded with points, condenser, rotor, cap, wires. (In the middle of the spare tire along with the belts, pump, etc.) . Few misc bolts, washers, nuts. . 1 or 2 of tail/stop & turn signal bulbs. . Small tube of grease . Cheap blanket > All this along with some common sense and a prayerbook? Nah, AAA card & cell phone! Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Apr 12 22:27:08 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 21:27:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <1694235077.754291239593860656.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <787442.66764.bm@omp415.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <1694235077.754291239593860656.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904122127m2d981452l278f82cfe8e459f0@mail.gmail.com> In part because much of Arizona driving is outside of cell phone service I tend to carry a lot of stuff. I have the AAA 200-mile tow package but still prefer to fix and be on my way when I can. I won't do the whole long ridiculous list here but among the spares an extra coil and an electric fuel pump are 2 things that have gotten me and others on our way again. The most recent item I've added is xtreme tape which purports to be superior for mending hoses etc -- available at Harbor Freight. Geo From DLylis at aol.com Mon Apr 13 04:40:33 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 06:40:33 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum Message-ID: In a message dated 4/12/2009 10:57:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: The adjuster wedges are also fully in. Do you mean backed all the way out? Have you reused the same shoes? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Why pay full price? Check out this month's deals on the new AOL Shopping. (http://shopping.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntinstor00000001) From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Mon Apr 13 05:58:05 2009 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 07:58:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 seat rails In-Reply-To: <20090411173701.FNAL6222.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <8D2F2002-19D0-4691-A562-54508AB988B6@tcd.ie> <20090411173701.FNAL6222.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <6fa72a770904130458p49684f1fx13a140ee706ea03e@mail.gmail.com> Looks like I know to reverse my seat rails as I get closer to having a roadworthy car! thanks Chris From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 13 08:44:14 2009 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 10:44:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Classic Auto Insurance Message-ID: <00eb01c9bc46$53362600$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hello to All.... I have close friends considering making a change in insuring several of their classics. They have received quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty which are close in premiums. They also received a quote from Classic Auto insurance for several hundred dollars less. Classic has a deductible which would bring it closer to the others. We are aware of course of the "agreed value issues". Does anyone have any experience or knowledge with the Classic Insurance company. Thanks, Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59 TR3A From mmoore8425 at aol.com Mon Apr 13 09:01:35 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 08:01:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Classic Auto Insurance In-Reply-To: <00eb01c9bc46$53362600$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <00eb01c9bc46$53362600$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <80CAB267-DE24-4DF2-B9AD-D8DDB15DBC58@aol.com> Alex, I had a claim last year against Hagerty, and they were incredible. I had one lady to deal with. I wanted the vehicle (64 E Type) repaired by the same restorer. The first adjustor, an independent, was ok in dealing with me, but gave the restorer a hard time. I called my contact and the adjustor was dismissed, the quote ok'd immediately and paid promptly. It was a pleasure doing business with them at what could have been an awkward time. The accident happened in my garage when I drove the 64 into the 63 by selecting the wrong gear! That did provoke some questioning of course, but they were very good about it. The 63 was not damaged. Mike Moore 59 TR3A 63 E Type OTS 64 E Type OTS On Apr 13, 2009, at 7:44 AM, Alex wrote: > Hello to All.... > I have close friends considering making a change in insuring several > of their > classics. They have received quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty > which are > close in premiums. They also received a quote from Classic Auto > insurance for > several hundred dollars less. Classic has a deductible which would > bring it > closer to the others. We are aware of course of the "agreed value > issues". > > Does anyone have any experience or knowledge with the Classic > Insurance > company. From tr3a at comcast.net Mon Apr 13 09:10:07 2009 From: tr3a at comcast.net (Michael Ferguson) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 11:10:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Classic Auto Insurance In-Reply-To: <80CAB267-DE24-4DF2-B9AD-D8DDB15DBC58@aol.com> References: <00eb01c9bc46$53362600$6401a8c0@STATION6> <80CAB267-DE24-4DF2-B9AD-D8DDB15DBC58@aol.com> Message-ID: Mike, nice testimonial...but I'm not sure I would have admitted that. :) On Apr 13, 2009, at 11:01 AM, Michael Moore wrote: > The accident happened in my garage when I drove the 64 into the 63 > by selecting the wrong gear! > > > Mike Moore > 59 TR3A > 63 E Type OTS > 64 E Type OTS From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Apr 13 12:10:53 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 11:10:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter-update Message-ID: <000601c9bc63$2fa55b80$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello List, Disconnected and cleaned all starter and solenoid connections. Reconnected only solenoid connections. Repeatedly picked and dropped starter solenoid many times w/ignition key. Ammeter deflected only to mid-range discharge consistently, never pegged. Reconnected large solenoid to starter wire, immediate original meter peg on start. Car always starts fine but I don't want to cook the ammeter. Make sense to anyone? Thank you. Regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12160 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From jimbpps at cox.net Mon Apr 13 09:11:16 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 08:11:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <787442.66764.bm@omp415.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <787442.66764.bm@omp415.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <70302AB3E50D4BAA8CFD3E89C6A634C2@JimofficePC> I think the list posted by Randall is about as all inclusive a list as I have seen. The only things I add for the long trips are my detailing and cleaning products as I go to car shows on my trips! I also carry a bottle of lead substitute for my gas tank and ZDDP additive for my motor oil. Good luck, Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wbeech at flash.net Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR Toolbox For us who have yet to get on the road, but still hope for this summer... Just what does everyone put in their tool box for daily driving or a longer trip? For tools I would think: 2 quarts of oil, 2 gallons of water, 3/16-5/8 comb wrench, hammer, jack, crank, visegrips, electrical tape, safety wire. For spares maybe: Hoses, clamps, fan belt, fuses. All this along with some common sense and a prayerbook? Feel free to add to the list, should be interesting just how much junk we have in the trunk as we motor down the road. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Loumetelko at aol.com Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 8:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR Toolbox In a message dated 4/12/2009 8:49:44 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Have been carrying around a toolbox of select items in a toolbox in the trunk.B Slides around a bit or competes with the top and side curtains for space.B For awhile I kept it in the passenger footwell.B For years I have used a 7" X 12" plastic shoe box with a snap on lid. Surprising amount of small hand tools will fit and when placed on a folded bath towel will not slide around. A 2' cloth bag with zipper and handle holds spare parts, jack, breaker bar, etc. completes my "carry on". If it can't fit in the shoe box or bag it isn't worth taking. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana _______________________________________________ **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From fishplate at charter.net Mon Apr 13 09:27:37 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 8:27:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter-update In-Reply-To: <000601c9bc63$2fa55b80$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <20090413112737.1Y3WV.773787.root@mp05> ---- Bob wrote: > Disconnected and cleaned all starter and solenoid connections. Did you disconnect and clean the ground connections? (Engine to body and body to battery, IIRC) You could try connecting the starter body to the negative battery terminal with half a set of ~good~ jumper cables and see if it exhibits the same behavior... Jeff Scarbrough From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 13 10:29:31 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 11:29:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Classic Auto Insurance References: <00eb01c9bc46$53362600$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <002501c9bc55$25f82030$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> i have Hagerty simply because they were the only company which agreed to let my under 25 kids drive the car, with an adult along of course. i lost a windshield wiper rubber which scratched the windshield. they paid up promptly and no arguments or raised premiums. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alex" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 9:44 AM Subject: [TR] Classic Auto Insurance > Hello to All.... > I have close friends considering making a change in insuring several of > their > classics. They have received quotes from JC Taylor and Haggerty which are > close in premiums. They also received a quote from Classic Auto insurance > for > several hundred dollars less. Classic has a deductible which would bring > it > closer to the others. We are aware of course of the "agreed value issues". > > Does anyone have any experience or knowledge with the Classic Insurance > company. > > Thanks, > Alex Manzo > 72 TR6 > 59 TR3A From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Apr 13 15:48:54 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:48:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter-update References: <20090413112737.1Y3WV.773787.root@mp05> Message-ID: <002b01c9bc81$a48718d0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Ground connections are next, harder to get to. You know I am looking for an excuse for a Hi-Torque starter here. Thank you. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; "Bob" Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:27 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 ammeter peg/starter-update > > ---- Bob wrote: > > > Disconnected and cleaned all starter and solenoid connections. > > Did you disconnect and clean the ground connections? (Engine to body and body to battery, IIRC) You could try connecting the starter body to the negative battery terminal with half a set of ~good~ jumper cables and see if it exhibits the same behavior... > > Jeff Scarbrough > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) > Database version: 5.12160 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12160 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From paulwillou at socal.rr.com Mon Apr 13 18:12:00 2009 From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 17:12:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? All better now, thanks References: <20090412221634.CFKW5844.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <1C6570CD7F234E5794E07E9844834C19@paulal73q2sjay> Thanks List for the help. My clutch is much better now. paulw ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 3:16 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Clutch Adjustment? >> Should there be play in the clutch lever? When I remove the >> slave rod, there seems to be 1/8" to 1/4" back and forth play >> in the clutch lever. > > Yes. Without the slave pushrod to hold the TOB up to the pressure plate > inside, the lever should be able to move towards the slave cylinder by a > fair amount. I would have said it was more than 1/4", but haven't > actually > measured it. What it's doing is pulling the TOB & carrier away from the > pressure plate, until it hits the front cover of the gearbox. Likely the > amount of play also depends on how worn the clutch is, since the PP > fingers > will rise somewhat higher with a worn friction plate. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as paulwillou at socal.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon Apr 13 19:57:46 2009 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:57:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus Message-ID: I bought the kit of Dzus fasteners, washers, and right-sized nut and bolt to install them on the bonnet. A long time later, I got around to bolting down the spring brackets to the inner fenders. There's no way I can latch the fasteners, unless I don't know what I'm doing. The only thing I can imagine is that these fasteners just aren't long enough to reach down into the spring thing. I have posted pictures here: http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=view¤t=dzus1.jpg http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=view¤t=dzus2.jpg Thoughts? TIA, Jim From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon Apr 13 20:02:50 2009 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:02:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3a control head piece Message-ID: Years ago I took my control head complete with tube-that-holds-wiring out as an assembly, and stored it ever so carefully on a shelf. Of course being round it rolls, and - yeah it fell off the shelf.A chunk of bakelite broke off as seen here: http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=view¤t=controlhead.gif and I saved it, thinking it is reasonably out of sight and I can probably JB Weld it back on. And then it got lost somehow. I have really searched but it is the sort of bit that could have been swept up off the floor along with other junk. Does anyone by any chance have an extra one of these pieces? I don't see where they can be bought new. TIA, Jim From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Apr 13 20:07:23 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:07:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0904122012l716b67faw257829d34d0cd087@mail.gmail.com> References: <05FCDDE98A41473EAE27AE3F1F9DFF41@Scott> <7bb181af0904122012l716b67faw257829d34d0cd087@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Yes, the adjustment screw is fully backed off. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 11:12 PM To: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum I wouldn't favor turning the drum just to fit it -- if it is a 10" drum that is fairly rare and expensive metal to just scrape away. Have you backed off the adjustment screw? This might allow for whatever small difference you may have in the new cylinder. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon Apr 13 20:09:41 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:09:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9D079B25ECF6488BB50F2CA112151C4C@Scott> David: Yes, I do not have the adjuster wedge screwed in at all. Yes, these are the same shoes. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _____ From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com] Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 6:41 AM To: suhringtr36 at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In a message dated 4/12/2009 10:57:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: The adjuster wedges are also fully in. Do you mean backed all the way out? Have you reused the same shoes? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 13 20:10:40 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:10:40 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus Message-ID: In a message dated 4/13/2009 8:58:36 PM Central Daylight Time, grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes: > I bought the kit of Dzus fasteners, washers, and right-sized nut and bolt > to > install them on the bonnet. A long time later, I got around to bolting > down > the spring brackets to the inner fenders. > There's no way I can latch the fasteners, unless I don't know what I'm > doing. The only thing I can imagine is that these fasteners just aren't > long > enough to reach down into the spring thing. > I have posted pictures here: > > http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=view& > current=dzus1.jpg > http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=view& > current=dzus2.jpg > You can buy shims for the receiver (the part that bolts to the inner fender) and shim it up to reach the Dzus. (TRF #553001) stack up as many as you need. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Apr 13 20:13:13 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:13:13 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum Message-ID: In a message dated 4/13/2009 9:09:55 PM Central Daylight Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: > Yes, I do not have the adjuster wedge screwed in at all. Yes, these are > the > same shoes. > Scott, have you tried shifting the shoes up and down. If they are not centered they will not fit back into the hole (brake drum). Lightly tap them up and down as you try fitting the drum. (another) Dave From wbeech at flash.net Tue Apr 14 20:29:28 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:29:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090414032743.AAEA8187674@autox.team.net> My TR3 had two stacked under each one. BTW, I was able to find the material by-the-foot at my nearby FLAPS. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:11 PM To: grandfatherjim at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus In a message dated 4/13/2009 8:58:36 PM Central Daylight Time, grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes: > I bought the kit of Dzus fasteners, washers, and right-sized nut and > bolt to install them on the bonnet. A long time later, I got around to > bolting down the spring brackets to the inner fenders. > There's no way I can latch the fasteners, unless I don't know what I'm > doing. The only thing I can imagine is that these fasteners just > aren't long enough to reach down into the spring thing. > I have posted pictures here: > > http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=vie > w& > current=dzus1.jpg > http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=vie > w& > current=dzus2.jpg > You can buy shims for the receiver (the part that bolts to the inner fender) and shim it up to reach the Dzus. (TRF #553001) stack up as many as you need. Dave This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Tue Apr 14 20:29:28 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:29:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3a control head piece In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090414032747.503C1187875@autox.team.net> Jim, I bought a couple from Leo Ruof last year, you might see if he still has access to these replacements. LRUOF at COLUMBUS.RR.COM 614-261-6252. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Wallace Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3a control head piece Years ago I took my control head complete with tube-that-holds-wiring out as an assembly, and stored it ever so carefully on a shelf. Of course being round it rolls, and - yeah it fell off the shelf.A chunk of bakelite broke off as seen here: http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=view&curr ent=controlhead.gif and I saved it, thinking it is reasonably out of sight and I can probably JB Weld it back on. And then it got lost somehow. I have really searched but it is the sort of bit that could have been swept up off the floor along with other junk. Does anyone by any chance have an extra one of these pieces? I don't see where they can be bought new. TIA, Jim This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 13 20:41:30 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:41:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum References: <05FCDDE98A41473EAE27AE3F1F9DFF41@Scott> Message-ID: <0C3917DA3BCA4462A12017CDA7FA0D57@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Scott, I've heard this tightness will settle in, maybe? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Suhring" To: "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 10:34 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum > Well, I got the new rear cylinder installed in my '59 TR3, but have > encountered a problem that I am scratching my head over. Before I needed > to > replace the right rear brake cylinder, my wheel/brake drum turned freely. > Now since I replaced the cylinder, I can barely get the drum on and once > on, > you cannot spin the shaft due to the shoes being so tight on the drum. I > have changed nothing else, measured the piston against the old cylinder, > and > although the pistons have a different shape, the measurements seem to be > the > same. The adjuster wedges are also fully in. Any thoughts as to what could > be causing this problem? I can try installing the old cylinder after > rebuilding it or I could have the drum shaved down a bit. TIA > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon Apr 13 20:45:31 2009 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:45:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus In-Reply-To: <49e3f4de.1667f10a.0c7e.698eSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> References: <49e3f4de.1667f10a.0c7e.698eSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> Message-ID: OK no sorry I did not explain well enough. I know about the shims and have lots; the issue is how far down into the "receptacle piece" the Dzus reaches. With the underside of the bonnet actually touching the receptacle piece, the slot in the Dzus only begins to engage, and then can't be rotated.Thanks, Jim On Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 10:29 PM, Wbeech at flash.net wrote: > My TR3 had two stacked under each one. BTW, I was able to find the > material > by-the-foot at my nearby FLAPS. > > Bill B > > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com > Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:11 PM > To: grandfatherjim at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus > > In a message dated 4/13/2009 8:58:36 PM Central Daylight Time, > grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes: > > I bought the kit of Dzus fasteners, washers, and right-sized nut and > > bolt to install them on the bonnet. A long time later, I got around to > > bolting down the spring brackets to the inner fenders. > > There's no way I can latch the fasteners, unless I don't know what I'm > > doing. The only thing I can imagine is that these fasteners just > > aren't long enough to reach down into the spring thing. > > I have posted pictures here: > > > > http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=vie > > w& > > current=dzus1.jpg > > http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=vie > > w& > > current=dzus2.jpg > > > You can buy shims for the receiver (the part that bolts to the inner > fender) and shim it up to reach the Dzus. (TRF #553001) stack up as many > as you need. > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Apr 13 20:54:19 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:54:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] torn gasket replacement Message-ID: List, I accidentily tore the paper gasket at the end of the steering shaft today. This is the paper gasket on the TR3 that accompanies 7-8 other steel gaskets of various thicknesses designed to regulate tension of the steering wheel and is located at the front side of the steering box. Maybe I should just order another one, but it seems like 'RTV black or Aviation Form-a-Gasket could be used. What does this list say? TIA, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From spitlist at cox.net Mon Apr 13 21:16:25 2009 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 20:16:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] torn gasket replacement In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6452366E122E428782D15900BF24E8D7@joepentiumnew> I would just make another one. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 7:54 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] torn gasket replacement List, I accidentily tore the paper gasket at the end of the steering shaft today. This is the paper gasket on the TR3 that accompanies 7-8 other steel gaskets of various thicknesses designed to regulate tension of the steering wheel and is located at the front side of the steering box. Maybe I should just order another one, but it seems like 'RTV black or Aviation Form-a-Gasket could be used. What does this list say? TIA, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Apr 13 22:03:27 2009 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:03:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] gas lines Message-ID: <336263.43858.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just had a question about fuel lines for tr-3. Has anyone made up they're own? If so is it easy to find a flaring tool to make those connections? I'll prolly go with lines from one of the british suppliers but find them pretty expensive. thanks! gary n. From wbmcleod at gmail.com Mon Apr 13 22:49:01 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:49:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7FF8BA7B-693B-4AFA-AEB7-6F268BCB00F2@gmail.com> Do you have your hood buffer (bump stop) too far up in the air, or have the pointy one rather than the flat one? Bill On Apr 13, 2009, at 6:57 PM, Jim Wallace wrote: > I bought the kit of Dzus fasteners, washers, and right-sized nut and > bolt to > install them on the bonnet. A long time later, I got around to > bolting down > the spring brackets to the inner fenders. > There's no way I can latch the fasteners, unless I don't know what I'm > doing. The only thing I can imagine is that these fasteners just > aren't long > enough to reach down into the spring thing. > I have posted pictures here: > > http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=view¤t=dzus1.jpg > http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=view¤t=dzus2.jpg > > Thoughts? > > TIA, > Jim From wbmcleod at gmail.com Mon Apr 13 23:00:14 2009 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:00:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus In-Reply-To: References: <49e3f4de.1667f10a.0c7e.698eSMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> Message-ID: The spring wire in the receptacle normally is elevated slightly in the hole so that it is nearly level with the opening.... Also, the receptacle walls should be perpendicular to the top, not splayed. Bill On Apr 13, 2009, at 7:45 PM, Jim Wallace wrote: > OK no sorry I did not explain well enough. I know about the shims > and have > lots; the issue is how far down into the "receptacle piece" the Dzus > reaches. With the underside of the bonnet actually touching the > receptacle > piece, the slot in the Dzus only begins to engage, and then can't be > rotated.Thanks, > Jim > > On Tue, Apr 14, 2009 at 10:29 PM, Wbeech at flash.net > wrote: > >> My TR3 had two stacked under each one. BTW, I was able to find the >> material >> by-the-foot at my nearby FLAPS. >> >> Bill B >> >> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L >> >> '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO >> >> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is >> called...of >> course, some times it is difficult to make it go" >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net >> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com >> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:11 PM >> To: grandfatherjim at gmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [TR] TR3a bonnet Dzus >> >> In a message dated 4/13/2009 8:58:36 PM Central Daylight Time, >> grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes: >>> I bought the kit of Dzus fasteners, washers, and right-sized nut and >>> bolt to install them on the bonnet. A long time later, I got >>> around to >>> bolting down the spring brackets to the inner fenders. >>> There's no way I can latch the fasteners, unless I don't know what >>> I'm >>> doing. The only thing I can imagine is that these fasteners just >>> aren't long enough to reach down into the spring thing. >>> I have posted pictures here: >>> >>> http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=vie >>> w& >>> current=dzus1.jpg >>> http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/grandfatherjim/dzus/?action=vie >>> w& >>> current=dzus2.jpg >>> >> You can buy shims for the receiver (the part that bolts to the inner >> fender) and shim it up to reach the Dzus. (TRF #553001) stack up >> as many >> as you need. >> >> Dave >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbmcleod at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From curt at roadstershop.net Tue Apr 14 06:25:53 2009 From: curt at roadstershop.net (Curt Curtiss) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 07:25:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: <0C3917DA3BCA4462A12017CDA7FA0D57@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <05FCDDE98A41473EAE27AE3F1F9DFF41@Scott> <0C3917DA3BCA4462A12017CDA7FA0D57@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: I ran into this when I purchased and installed new shoes, I had to take a belt sander and take some of the lining off to get my drum back on. How much lining is on the shoes? Curt On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 9:41 PM, dorpaul wrote: > Scott, > I've heard this tightness will settle in, maybe? > Paul > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Suhring" < > suhringtr36 at comcast.net> > To: "Triumph Mail List" > Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 10:34 PM > Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum > > > Well, I got the new rear cylinder installed in my '59 TR3, but have >> encountered a problem that I am scratching my head over. Before I needed >> to >> replace the right rear brake cylinder, my wheel/brake drum turned freely. >> Now since I replaced the cylinder, I can barely get the drum on and once >> on, >> you cannot spin the shaft due to the shoes being so tight on the drum. I >> have changed nothing else, measured the piston against the old cylinder, >> and >> although the pistons have a different shape, the measurements seem to be >> the >> same. The adjuster wedges are also fully in. Any thoughts as to what could >> be causing this problem? I can try installing the old cylinder after >> rebuilding it or I could have the drum shaved down a bit. TIA >> >> Scott Suhring >> Mechanicsburg, PA >> '70 TR6 >> '59 TR3 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as curt at roadstershop.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jat1127 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 14 12:37:31 2009 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 14:37:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 7 FOR PARTS Message-ID: Listers, Good Afternoon! It looks as if I am going to aquire a whole TR 7 4speed coupe. I want it for the front bumper and maybe another trinket but that is it. The car has been outside for years but does not look to bad. If someone wants all or part please let me know. It will be in Greenfield, Ma. I would be delighted if someone would take it all for $200! Stay tuned as I may also get a complete running TR 7 DHC that has been inside for decades. It has been quoted as being very nice. I do not want it. CHEERS John John Taylor Greenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Mobi le1_042009 From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Apr 14 13:59:17 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 12:59:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: <9D079B25ECF6488BB50F2CA112151C4C@Scott> References: <9D079B25ECF6488BB50F2CA112151C4C@Scott> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904141259l273856co671fb9567f5acf70@mail.gmail.com> Scott -- Did you remove the shoes from both sides of the car at the same time? If so there are several ways they can go back on (l to r, front to back), some of which may not fit well. If a show that has worn at a slight angle is put back on with the prior inner side now out the wear will not match the drum and can cause binding. I have had this problem and finally made a chart of all the permutations... then tried them one-by-one to get the one that fit best. Next time I will do one wheel at a time &/or label the shoes. Geo From aribert at c3net.net Tue Apr 14 14:44:29 2009 From: aribert at c3net.net (aribert at c3net.net) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:44:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 head torque w/ ARP studs? Message-ID: I have (temporarily) misplaced my Bently manual (and in it would be any notes to myself as to special head torque spec.) and want to retorque the head while doing a valve adjustment this coming Saturday. So, what is the head torque for a TR6 engine? Does the use of ARP head studs allow for a higher torque value and if so, how much more? From FGFO1 at aol.com Tue Apr 14 19:27:54 2009 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 21:27:54 EDT Subject: [TR] lock washer on TR3 trunnion Message-ID: I am fitting new lock washers on the new trunnion of the TR3 as part of the rebuild. Let me rephrase, id like to fit new lock washers. At 30 foot-pounds the nut will not drive them home. In fact I striped the nut by continuing to keep turning beyond. Tried putting sockets over them at each end and turning them in with a C clamp. Not so good. how have you guys got them to seat properly? bfh? thanks Frank Fisher **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000002) From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue Apr 14 20:31:35 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 22:31:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] gas lines In-Reply-To: <336263.43858.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <336263.43858.qm@web59402.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I made my own and had no problems. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 12:03 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] gas lines Just had a question about fuel lines for tr-3. Has anyone made up they're own? If so is it easy to find a flaring tool to make those connections? I'll prolly go with lines from one of the british suppliers but find them pretty expensive. thanks! gary n. From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue Apr 14 20:36:46 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 22:36:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: References: <05FCDDE98A41473EAE27AE3F1F9DFF41@Scott> <0C3917DA3BCA4462A12017CDA7FA0D57@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: They are relined original shoes, so they are at full thickness. This was also suggested, especially on the leading edges, so I am going to give this a try since it has the least potential damage and can be carefully ground down. I can then test to be sure I am getting full contact and if not, may take it to a shop to have it shaped to the drum. Thanks for the support. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _____ From: curtcurtiss at gmail.com [mailto:curtcurtiss at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Curt Curtiss Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 8:26 AM To: dorpaul Cc: Scott Suhring; Triumph Mail List Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum I ran into this when I purchased and installed new shoes, I had to take a belt sander and take some of the lining off to get my drum back on. How much lining is on the shoes? Curt On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 9:41 PM, dorpaul wrote: Scott, I've heard this tightness will settle in, maybe? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Suhring" To: "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 10:34 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum Well, I got the new rear cylinder installed in my '59 TR3, but have encountered a problem that I am scratching my head over. Before I needed to replace the right rear brake cylinder, my wheel/brake drum turned freely. Now since I replaced the cylinder, I can barely get the drum on and once on, you cannot spin the shaft due to the shoes being so tight on the drum. I have changed nothing else, measured the piston against the old cylinder, and although the pistons have a different shape, the measurements seem to be the same. The adjuster wedges are also fully in. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this problem? I can try installing the old cylinder after rebuilding it or I could have the drum shaved down a bit. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Apr 14 21:10:28 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:10:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] lock washer on TR3 trunnion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090415031028603.MBIN29019.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com> > how have you guys got them to seat properly? bfh? The only time I've installed new ones, the nut just pulled them on. No muss, no fuss. Generally I reuse the old ones though, as they don't seem to wear much and any wear is compensated when you set the clearance. I would suggest using a file to 'break' the corners of the splines a bit, so they deform the washers instead of trying to cut them. Unfortunately that probably means removing the wishbones again, to get access. Then try again, using a hardware store nut instead of the proper castellated version to seat the washers. After they are home, replace the nuts with the proper ones. Or, I've got some pre-splined washers that I'll sell you cheap Randall From k_nachman at comcast.net Tue Apr 14 21:16:23 2009 From: k_nachman at comcast.net (Ken) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:16:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox Message-ID: <018a01c9bd78$8e149ad0$aa3dd070$@net> All - the best way to store your TR3 sidecurtains is in a sidecurtain storage bag. The sidecurtains nest inside a flannel lined bag, can be placed on the trunk floor and take up very little trunk space. You can store almost whatever you want on top of the bag and the sidecurtains ride without damage. These bags are made especially for Triumph TR2/TR3/TR3A/TR3B. Check them out at www.sidecurtain.com . Ken Nachman Richmond Triumph Register 1969 Triumph TR6 From team.net at daveola.com Wed Apr 15 00:21:28 2009 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:21:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Free Spitfire bumper in California Message-ID: I don't have a Triumph Spitfire, but maybe you do: Free rear chrome Triumph Spitfire bumper and brackets (Pacifica, CA) http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/zip/1122489043.html Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Apr 15 09:44:28 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 15:44:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: <9D079B25ECF6488BB50F2CA112151C4C@Scott> Message-ID: <870976128.2354171239810268151.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Yes, I do not have the adjuster wedge screwed in at all. Yes, these are the >same shoes. This may seem a silly question, but did you by any chance fill the fluid resevoir and tap the brakes, such that the wheel cylinder is partially open?B If so, it might be that releasing the bleeder screw will give you the clearance you need. Terry, BTDT New Hampshire From jimbpps at cox.net Wed Apr 15 11:04:27 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 10:04:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: References: <05FCDDE98A41473EAE27AE3F1F9DFF41@Scott><0C3917DA3BCA4462A12017CDA7FA0D57@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: When I was doing brakes professionally for pay, most professional brake shops and mobile services used to 're-arc' new shoes to better fit and to mate with the drum that they will have to fit into. The machinist would also usually chamfer the leading edge (I can't remember, it may be the trailing edge or both?) to allow for a better/easier fit and less rear brake chatter/shudder. Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 7:37 PM To: 'Curt Curtiss'; 'dorpaul' Cc: 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum They are relined original shoes, so they are at full thickness. This was also suggested, especially on the leading edges, so I am going to give this a try since it has the least potential damage and can be carefully ground down. I can then test to be sure I am getting full contact and if not, may take it to a shop to have it shaped to the drum. Thanks for the support. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _____ From: curtcurtiss at gmail.com [mailto:curtcurtiss at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Curt Curtiss Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 8:26 AM To: dorpaul Cc: Scott Suhring; Triumph Mail List Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum I ran into this when I purchased and installed new shoes, I had to take a belt sander and take some of the lining off to get my drum back on. How much lining is on the shoes? Curt On Mon, Apr 13, 2009 at 9:41 PM, dorpaul wrote: Scott, I've heard this tightness will settle in, maybe? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Suhring" To: "Triumph Mail List" Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 10:34 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum Well, I got the new rear cylinder installed in my '59 TR3, but have encountered a problem that I am scratching my head over. Before I needed to replace the right rear brake cylinder, my wheel/brake drum turned freely. Now since I replaced the cylinder, I can barely get the drum on and once on, you cannot spin the shaft due to the shoes being so tight on the drum. I have changed nothing else, measured the piston against the old cylinder, and although the pistons have a different shape, the measurements seem to be the same. The adjuster wedges are also fully in. Any thoughts as to what could be causing this problem? I can try installing the old cylinder after rebuilding it or I could have the drum shaved down a bit. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From dncullig at us.ibm.com Wed Apr 15 12:38:50 2009 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 14:38:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) Message-ID: Hi all - Anybody else on the list(s) planning to attend The Mitty this year? I'm driving down from upstate NY and will be staying at the host hotel. It's a Jaguar weekend but I'll be there in my TR6. I'm hoping to find a way into Road Atlanta on Thursday, the practice day - any racers need an extra crew member? Thanks. Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH Soon to be dctr6 at optonline.net) From rgdavey at yahoo.com Wed Apr 15 13:06:58 2009 From: rgdavey at yahoo.com (Robert Davey) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 12:06:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? Message-ID: <958103.46742.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I just received info from my BMIHT certificate that confirms my '67 TR4A was originally fitted with a Matador Red leather interior (it shows a code of: H 12). What I am unsure of is if the seats and panels would have had the piping in the same color red, or white as is the only offering by Moss. This car is an original black car (code 11), so I personally think it would look much better all red. My Moss rep advised me that the red piping can be special ordered. Anyone know of an original Black/Red leather car that can answer this question? Thanks, Robert From brad.kahler at 141.com Wed Apr 15 13:22:23 2009 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:22:23 GMT Subject: [TR] Eaton supercharger - TR4 Message-ID: <200904151322165.SM03432@[166.70.182.40]> If any of you are running (or know of someone who is running) an Eaton Supercharger on their TR4/4A I would like to exchange notes with you. Please contact me off-list as I have several questions that I'd like to get answered. Thanks! Brad 1961 TR4 (among others) From jimbpps at cox.net Wed Apr 15 15:17:39 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 14:17:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? In-Reply-To: <958103.46742.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <958103.46742.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <89733591BFDB4A9FA5427CA1AEF3976A@JimofficePC> I agree with you on the looks of the piping. The Roadster Factory had beige piping in stock for my TR250! It looks great incidentally!! Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Davey Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 12:07 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? I just received info from my BMIHT certificate that confirms my '67 TR4A was originally fitted with a Matador Red leather interior (it shows a code of: H 12). What I am unsure of is if the seats and panels would have had the piping in the same color red, or white as is the only offering by Moss. This car is an original black car (code 11), so I personally think it would look much better all red. My Moss rep advised me that the red piping can be special ordered. Anyone know of an original Black/Red leather car that can answer this question? Thanks, Robert Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Apr 15 17:04:18 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:04:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090415190418.F15IH.956822.root@mp18> I figure to be there, are there any interesting tourist attractions between Greenville and Road Atlanta? I plan to be booking a tent on turn 5. I'll probably be driving 1 Bad 6. Cheers, Al From Loumetelko at aol.com Wed Apr 15 17:58:21 2009 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:58:21 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? Message-ID: Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? I just received info from my BMIHT certificate that confirms my '67 TR4A was originally fitted with a Matador Red leather interior (it shows a code of: H 12). What I am unsure of is if the seats and panels would have had the piping in the same color red, or white as is the only offering by Moss. TRA's TR4A Concours guide states "....colors available for seats and other interior components were black, red or blue. Plastic piping was white." Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana **************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b Starting at $479 (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631252x1201390195/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213968550%3B35701427%3Bh) From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Apr 15 19:33:37 2009 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 21:33:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49E68AF1.5020902@bright.net> Gary and list. Please stop by our booth in the vendor area. We have a vendor, flip open sides, trailer. Inside display is t.shirts and will have tables out front with parts, suspension stuff, gear starters, brakes, stainless steel braid, etc. If you need something brought to the event, free shipping, please let me know as soon as you can. Thanks, Ted GSFuqua1 at aol.com wrote: > Bobby Whitehead and I are attending. We will also be at the host hotel. > Not sure what I'm going to drive over just yet. Perhaps Grape Ape, my TR 6. > We plan to arrive sometime Thursday afternoon and will be at the Group 44 > dinner and also helping out Tim Studdard and the Classic MotorSports Team. > > Hope to see you there. > > Gary Fuqua > Classic Sports Cars > Branson, MO > 417-593-9503 (Cell) > **************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b Starting at > $479 > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631252x1201390195/aol?redir=http > :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213968550%3B35701427%3Bh) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.58/2061 - Release Date: 04/15/09 19:52:00 From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Apr 15 20:46:53 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 19:46:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] su spitfire float bowls Message-ID: <20090415224653.UAYX5.972233.root@mp15> I am looking for some SU float bowls off a spitfire. I am not sure what the numbers are. Thanks Al Salvatore From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 16 06:37:51 2009 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 08:37:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] mistaken brake lights? Message-ID: <77D3D1EFC678429E93773334E34A01E2@YOUR7F50EBAA71> In wiring up my 3's brake lights, it looks as if the brake lights not only go to the rear of the vehicle, but they also power the front grill's marker lights. Can this be right? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Thu Apr 16 07:12:14 2009 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 09:12:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spit fuel tank puzzle Message-ID: I've just about decided to replace the fuel tank in my 1980 Spitfire, and I am seeking advice on whether to go with the VB one or an aluminum one (about $75 more) on eBay (description below). Has anyone had any experience with either. For example, I found that I had to do a fair amount of grinding of flanges to get the VB TR6 tank to fit last year. YOU CAN CONTACT ME AT: JORGECERVERA218 at LIVE.COM OR AT: (619)277-8467 or (619)948-6972 or (562)867-0576 SPECIAL PRICE OFFER WHILE CURRENT STOCK LASTS! OUR TANK WILL FIT ALL THE SPITFIRE MODELS, BECAUSE WE INSTALLED 2 PICK-UP NIPPLES, ONE ON TOP AND ONE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK AND WE ALSO SUPPLY A BRASS PLUG WITH A NYLON GASKET TO CANCEL THE NIPPLE NOT USED... IF YOU NEED THIS ESSENTIAL PART TO COMPLETE YOUR RESTORATION, I SUGGEST YOU BUY NOW, WHILE THE PRICES ARE STILL REASONABLE.... OUR REGULAR PRICE IS $750 + S&H + INS... WE ARE THE ONLY MANUFACTURERS FOR THESE FUEL TANKS... Part of my motivation in making the change is that after 20 years with this car I am finally ready to learn why I have never been able to get more than 7 gallons of gas in it, even when I have run it dry. The fuel gauge reads about 2/3 when it is "full," and I have overflowed it trying to force more in on occasion. Anybody experienced this before? Thanks for any advice. Tim Gaines Clinton, SC 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Apr 16 07:55:26 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 09:55:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] mistaken brake lights? In-Reply-To: <77D3D1EFC678429E93773334E34A01E2@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <77D3D1EFC678429E93773334E34A01E2@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8CB8CB221444447-8B4-756@WEBMAIL-MY38.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: dorpaul In wiring up my 3's brake lights, it looks as if the brake lights not only go to the rear of the vehicle, but they also power the front grill's marker lights. Can this be right? ==AM== Paul, no, it's not right. What wire colors are you looking at? You should be seeing red wires to the "running" lights, green-with-red wires to the LH flashers, green-with-white wires to the RH flashers, and green-with-purple wires to the brake lights. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 16 07:56:48 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 08:56:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spit fuel tank puzzle References: Message-ID: <000a01c9be9b$6ae28c10$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> i bought a tank from this guy a few years ago. he sent me the wrong one (early vs late tr3), and although he insisted at first they were the same he ended up making good on it. i now have the correct tank. (Since several paint shops in succession decided not to paint my car after all it is still not done so i can't vouch for its quality once installed) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Gaines" To: Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 8:12 AM Subject: [TR] Spit fuel tank puzzle > I've just about decided to replace the fuel tank in my 1980 > Spitfire, and I am seeking advice on whether to go with the VB one or > an aluminum one (about $75 more) on eBay (description below). Has > anyone had any experience with either. For example, I found that I > had to do a fair amount of grinding of flanges to get the VB TR6 tank > to fit last year. > > YOU CAN CONTACT ME AT: JORGECERVERA218 at LIVE.COM OR AT: (619)277-8467 > or (619)948-6972 or (562)867-0576 > SPECIAL PRICE OFFER WHILE CURRENT STOCK LASTS! OUR TANK WILL FIT ALL > THE SPITFIRE MODELS, BECAUSE WE INSTALLED 2 PICK-UP NIPPLES, ONE ON > TOP AND ONE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TANK AND WE ALSO SUPPLY A BRASS PLUG > WITH A NYLON GASKET TO CANCEL THE NIPPLE NOT USED... IF YOU NEED THIS > ESSENTIAL PART TO COMPLETE YOUR RESTORATION, I SUGGEST YOU BUY NOW, > WHILE THE PRICES ARE STILL REASONABLE.... OUR REGULAR PRICE IS $750 + > S&H + INS... WE ARE THE ONLY MANUFACTURERS FOR THESE FUEL TANKS... > > Part of my motivation in making the change is that after 20 years > with this car I am finally ready to learn why I have never been able > to get more than 7 gallons of gas in it, even when I have run it dry. > The fuel gauge reads about 2/3 when it is "full," and I have > overflowed it trying to force more in on occasion. Anybody > experienced this before? > > Thanks for any advice. > > Tim Gaines > Clinton, SC > 1980 Spitfire > 1974 TR6 From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com Thu Apr 16 08:13:43 2009 From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 10:13:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spit fuel tank puzzle In-Reply-To: <000a01c9be9b$6ae28c10$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> References: <000a01c9be9b$6ae28c10$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106E766654F@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Have you considered taking the existing tank to a local radiator shop to be cleaned and checked? It could cost you a whole lot less money and you are going to be pulling it out either way? My understanding is that most 'local' radiator shops are quite reasonable cost-wise for cleaning/testing a tank. Just a thought from someone currently replacing the tank on his '75 Spit. Mine has a broken weld and subsequently leaks pretty badly, not worth repairing to me, so I am getting a good used and cleaned/tested tank from Ted Schumacher. > I've just about decided to replace the fuel tank in my 1980 > Spitfire, and I am seeking advice on whether to go with the VB one or > an aluminum one (about $75 more) on eBay (description below). Has > anyone had any experience with either. For example, I found that I > had to do a fair amount of grinding of flanges to get the VB TR6 tank > to fit last year. Jim NASS #302 NASS Club Secretary '75 Spitfire 1500 w/OD www.littlebluespitfire.com York, PA The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 16 08:15:54 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 07:15:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] mistaken brake lights? In-Reply-To: <77D3D1EFC678429E93773334E34A01E2@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20090416141553881.IWNT15659.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com> > In wiring up my 3's brake lights, it looks as if the brake > lights not only go to the rear of the vehicle, but they also > power the front grill's marker lights. Can this be right? As Andy notes, something is wrong. However since you have a later car that uses the same rear fixture for brake lights and tail lights, it is possible that there is a short within one of those fixtures allowing current to flow from the brake light circuit into the marker light circuit. Just having a bulb installed wrong can do that; or the bulb contacts may be touching each other. Or the wiring under the hood may be wrong. The marker light circuit should be a red wire (which does run to both front and back). The brake light circuit should be a green wire with a purple stripe. Unless of course your car is like my TR3, where all the colors have faded to a uniform brown Randall From mmoore8425 at aol.com Thu Apr 16 09:01:58 2009 From: mmoore8425 at aol.com (Michael Moore) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 08:01:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] mistaken brake lights? In-Reply-To: <77D3D1EFC678429E93773334E34A01E2@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <77D3D1EFC678429E93773334E34A01E2@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <09E2BC13-8F09-4271-AC88-75D2E6365A48@aol.com> Paul, You must be looking at the turn signal wires. Also, the parking lights are front and rear. Do you have a wiring diagram? Mike Moore On Apr 16, 2009, at 5:37 AM, dorpaul wrote: > In wiring up my 3's brake lights, it looks as if the brake lights > not only go > to the rear of the vehicle, but they also power the front grill's > marker > lights. Can this be right? > > Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 From rgdavey at yahoo.com Thu Apr 16 09:19:06 2009 From: rgdavey at yahoo.com (Robert Davey) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 08:19:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? Message-ID: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for the info Lou, not what I wanted to hear - but that's how they were made. My original top boot is solid red however. I just think the Black over Red/white combination is a little busy versus traditional Black over Red. Robert -------- TRA's TR4A Concours guide states "....colors available for seats and other interior components were black, red or blue. Plastic piping was white." From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Apr 16 09:42:10 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 16:42:10 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20BBAD4D7F064042A4A8F3EE6B903A85@Bevan> With the very greatest respect to whoever compiled the Concours Guide, I regret to say they are in error. While the information was never made *generally public knowledge* it was possible for a customer to: 1. Specify any upholstery colour in the Standard-Triumph range for any model of car made by the company - even if that colour did not appear in the colour charts. Consequently Dark Green and Tan were other colours that could be specified for the TR4A. 2. Specify non-standard combinations of standard colours that appeared in the colour charts. Furthermore (though this is surely of little use to anyone now) I still have the computer coding codicils for those variants from the production indent code book and they were written: 1. NSTC or NSTC meaning non-standard trim colour dark green or tan as applicable 2 Non standard combos were written NSCSC Piping was white in all cases Sorry, Darrell Jonmac > Thanks for the info Lou, not what I wanted to hear - but that's how they were made. My original > top boot is solid red however. I just think the Black over Red/white combination is a little busy > versus traditional Black over Red. > > Robert > > -------- > > TRA's TR4A Concours guide states "....colors available for seats and > other interior components were black, red or blue. Plastic piping was > white." > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Apr 16 10:16:17 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 09:16:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] mistaken brake lights? In-Reply-To: <09E2BC13-8F09-4271-AC88-75D2E6365A48@aol.com> References: <77D3D1EFC678429E93773334E34A01E2@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <09E2BC13-8F09-4271-AC88-75D2E6365A48@aol.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904160916n563a9d77ma66dd4bcc8973f11@mail.gmail.com> I'm not clear whether Paul is looking at wires, a diagram or just seeing the parking lights come on when the brakes are applied. If the latter, it is possible for a poor ground to cause bulbs to glow (not brightly) that are not part of the same circuit as the current seeks a ground. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Apr 16 10:22:22 2009 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 09:22:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? In-Reply-To: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0904160922x7d0ed420uaf5a55f6084b8e5c@mail.gmail.com> On Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 8:19 AM, Robert Davey wrote: > Thanks for the info Lou, not what I wanted to hear - but that's how they > were made. My original top boot is solid red however. I just think the > Black over Red/white combination is a little busy versus traditional Black > over Red. > FWIW, there is a black TR4 with red/white interior on eBay at this moment with many pics. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR4_W0QQitemZ330322240493QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item330322240493&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A317%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1308 The concours guide is a useful reference and, I suppose, a neccessary arbitrator for those judging and being judged -- but I never take it as the absolute last word. Geo From spook01 at comcast.net Thu Apr 16 12:02:42 2009 From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 13:02:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <7bb181af0904160922x7d0ed420uaf5a55f6084b8e5c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: "The concours guide is a useful reference and, I suppose, a neccessary arbitrator for those judging and being judged -- but I never take it as the absolute last word." Well, for those who don't care if their car is the way it left the factory, you need not. HOWEVER, if you are attempting to restore a car to concours condition, or just correct condition, you need to pay close attention. The TR4 and the rest of the TR's are known cars with good factory records to back up the judging book. Ray From zoboherald at aol.com Thu Apr 16 12:20:35 2009 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 14:20:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? In-Reply-To: <20BBAD4D7F064042A4A8F3EE6B903A85@Bevan> References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <20BBAD4D7F064042A4A8F3EE6B903A85@Bevan> Message-ID: <8CB8CD72B651B89-8B4-165F@WEBMAIL-MY38.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney With the very greatest respect to whoever compiled the Concours Guide, I regret to say they are in error. While the information was never made *generally public knowledge* it was possible for a customer to:? 1. Specify any upholstery colour in the Standard-Triumph range for any model of car made by the company - even if that colour did not appear in the colour charts. Consequently Dark Green and Tan were other colours that could be specified for the TR4A.? 2. Specify non-standard combinations of standard colours that appeared in the colour charts. ==AM== John, I've heard this from you and a number of other sources over the years, and I've no reason to doubt it. However, I suspect it was something that wasn't widely publicized throughout the US distributor/dealer network, either! Fact is, in the mid-1960s, paint color choices on Triumphs sold in the US were generally limited to white, Signal Red, Black, Wedgwood Blue and Conifer (a.k.a. Triumph Racing) Green; interiors were usually limited to black, Matador Red and Midnight Blue. Maybe that was a Leyland-Triumph "economy of production" thing for exports? One notable exception, oddly, was the "Sports" (nee Herald) 1200 convertible. Towards the end of their run here (say, 1966-67), Triumph seemed to sell quite a few with Conifer Green paint and Cactus Green interiors! ? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us? From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Thu Apr 16 12:49:08 2009 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 20:49:08 +0200 Subject: [TR] Wiring query Message-ID: <1D8990F546214335B452561366FCCDA7@Study> On the TR4A wiring diagram the dotted line wire between #28 (Voltage Stab) and 29 (Heater Blower Motor, optional) is not marked with a colour(s). I suspect this is green and black. Can anyone confirm? TIA. David Brister 1967 TR4A. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 20411 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From peter at nosimport.com Thu Apr 16 12:55:01 2009 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 13:55:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pedal pusher? (clutch) Message-ID: <200904161155968.SM01632@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> An acquaintance just asked if I knew of a way or device to enable a vertically challenged individual to reach the clutch pedal in his TR6. I've heard stories of blocks of wood on the pedal, but surely there's a better way. Thanks Peter C. From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Thu Apr 16 13:17:30 2009 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 15:17:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Pedal pusher? (clutch) In-Reply-To: <200904161155968.SM01632@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> References: <200904161155968.SM01632@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: You could always go with a short throw slave (no pun intended). Mine kicks in about halfway down rather then having to floor it. (I floor it anyway out of habbit) - Aldwyn Sent from my iPhone On Apr 16, 2009, at 2:55 PM, Peter Caldwell wrote: > An acquaintance just asked if I knew of a way or device to enable a > vertically challenged individual to reach the clutch pedal in his TR6. > > I've heard stories of blocks of wood on the pedal, but surely > there's a better way. > > Thanks > > Peter C. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as aldwyn at sylvancircle.org > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 16 13:24:02 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 12:24:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pedal pusher? (clutch) In-Reply-To: <200904161155968.SM01632@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> References: <200904161155968.SM01632@owner-3b66599e3.nosimport.com> Message-ID: <5F0FBDF502A94E8391930C1EA297BCA0@jdnet.deere.com> > An acquaintance just asked if I knew of a way or device to enable a > vertically challenged individual to reach the clutch pedal in his TR6. A few ideas that might help: 1) Make sure it has the larger MC and smaller slave cylinder. I forget offhand which is which, but one of them changed during TR6 production, and I've heard that the other one is sometimes sold in the wrong size. 2) Install an adjustable pushrod for the MC (from a TR3A-4). This can be set longer (to some extent) to move the pedal higher. 3) Install a braided SS clutch line. Supposedly the stock line bulges enough under pressure to take up some of the pedal movement. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 16 13:33:30 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 12:33:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wiring query In-Reply-To: <1D8990F546214335B452561366FCCDA7@Study> References: <1D8990F546214335B452561366FCCDA7@Study> Message-ID: <06023B6C638945F380FD026E11BCE0AE@jdnet.deere.com> > On the TR4A wiring diagram the dotted line wire between #28 (Voltage Stab) > and 29 (Heater Blower Motor, optional) is not marked with a colour(s). > > I suspect this is green and black. Can anyone confirm? Are you talking about the line between the VS and the heater fan switch? Or the wire from the switch to the motor? I believe the wire from the VS to the switch should be solid green. Green with a tracer would make sense for the line from the switch to the motor; but I believe the tracer is usually slate. Green/black is the line from the fuel gauge to the sender. -- Randall From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Apr 16 14:03:51 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 16:03:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Frames ? References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <7bb181af0904160922x7d0ed420uaf5a55f6084b8e5c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <64D436514C604A20857C0E8D5009F273@fred8kwiskhcfu> What color did the T/R 2/4 Frames come from the factories with, if you answered ==Red, Blue, white, black==, you are correct =========================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "TR List" Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 12:22 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Interior ? > On Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 8:19 AM, Robert Davey wrote: > >> Thanks for the info Lou, not what I wanted to hear - but that's how they >> were made. My original top boot is solid red however. I just think the >> Black over Red/white combination is a little busy versus traditional >> Black >> over Red. >> > > FWIW, there is a black TR4 with red/white interior on eBay at this moment > with many pics. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR4_W0QQitemZ330322240493QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item330322240493&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A317%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1308 > > The concours guide is a useful reference and, I suppose, a neccessary > arbitrator for those judging and being judged -- but I never take it as > the > absolute last word. > > Geo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Apr 16 14:23:20 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 16:23:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wiring query References: <1D8990F546214335B452561366FCCDA7@Study> Message-ID: That's how Dan Masters rewired my T/R 3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Brister" To: Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 2:49 PM Subject: [TR] Wiring query > On the TR4A wiring diagram the dotted line wire between #28 (Voltage Stab) > and 29 (Heater Blower Motor, optional) is not marked with a colour(s). > > I suspect this is green and black. Can anyone confirm? > > TIA. > > David Brister > 1967 TR4A. > > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. > SPAMfighter has removed 20411 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Professional version does not have this message > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wensley_tr at comcast.net Thu Apr 16 14:44:32 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 16:44:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Frames ? In-Reply-To: <64D436514C604A20857C0E8D5009F273@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <7bb181af0904160922x7d0ed420uaf5a55f6084b8e5c@mail.gmail.com> <64D436514C604A20857C0E8D5009F273@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <002701c9bed4$257ddec0$70799c40$@net> What every color was in the gun Craig -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FRED E THOMAS Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 4:04 PM To: Geo Hahn; TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Frames ? What color did the T/R 2/4 Frames come from the factories with, if you answered ==Red, Blue, white, black==, you are correct ============================================================================ =============================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "TR List" Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 12:22 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Interior ? > On Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 8:19 AM, Robert Davey wrote: > >> Thanks for the info Lou, not what I wanted to hear - but that's how they >> were made. My original top boot is solid red however. I just think the >> Black over Red/white combination is a little busy versus traditional >> Black >> over Red. >> > > FWIW, there is a black TR4 with red/white interior on eBay at this moment > with many pics. > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR4_W0QQitemZ330322240493QQcmdZViewIt emQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item330322240493&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms= 72%3A317%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1308 > > The concours guide is a useful reference and, I suppose, a neccessary > arbitrator for those judging and being judged -- but I never take it as > the > absolute last word. > > Geo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 16 15:48:59 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 14:48:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? In-Reply-To: <8CB8CD72B651B89-8B4-165F@WEBMAIL-MY38.sysops.aol.com> References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com><20BBAD4D7F064042A4A8F3EE6B903A85@Bevan> <8CB8CD72B651B89-8B4-165F@WEBMAIL-MY38.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: > Fact is, in the mid-1960s, paint color choices on > Triumphs sold in the US were generally limited No doubt that is true as well. "Generally limited" is not the same as "always limited". If nothing else, a car being here now is no guarantee that it was sold here originally. No doubt "personal export" vehicles were never more than a small minority, but they did exist. And it is still quite possible to import 60's cars from other countries. For example, I've seen more Vitesses than Sports 6s at some shows. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Apr 16 15:51:44 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 14:51:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? In-Reply-To: References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com><7bb181af0904160922x7d0ed420uaf5a55f6084b8e5c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: > Well, for those who don't care if their car is the way it left the > factory, > you need not. > HOWEVER, if you are attempting to restore a car to concours condition, or > just correct condition, you need to pay close attention. Hmm, does that mean cars in "concours condition" should have wooden bumpers and no mirrors? After all, that is the way that most US-spec cars left the factory. Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Apr 16 16:04:39 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 18:04:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? References: <632508.79165.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <20BBAD4D7F064042A4A8F3EE6B903A85@Bevan> Message-ID: <073F5295C9FC4C778612763FFE89099A@userb38463fba5> My experience with Non Standard Combinations. I have written about this on a few occasions and John has always responded with a similar response. In my case his response is borne out by my 1966 TR4A. I've owned it since 1969 with relatively low mileage. It's Royal Blue with a Red Interior. I never thought anything of it over these 40 years until recent conversations about color and interior combinations. I've only ever seen 2 others and one of those was the wrong blue and a wine red interior redone car. The other was a poor photo of a car in New Hampshire that may well be in a scrap yard at this point. I hope the owner decided otherwise. I have the Heritage Certificate which confirms the originallity but no book mentions my particular color combination. Does anyone know of another TR4A with this combination? Or for that matter does anyone else have an original car with a non-standard color combination with documentation? I'm sure there are a lot of cars that have been repainted with new interiors in non-standard combinations but are they documented as original? I'd be pleased to send a photo if anyone is interested. If you're not that's OK too! JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "Robert Davey" ; Cc: Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 11:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Interior ? > With the very greatest respect to whoever compiled the Concours Guide, I > regret to say they are in > error. While the information was never made *generally public knowledge* > it was possible for a > customer to: > 1. Specify any upholstery colour in the Standard-Triumph range for any > model of car made by the > company - even if that colour did not appear in the colour charts. > Consequently Dark Green and Tan > were other colours that could be specified for the TR4A. > 2. Specify non-standard combinations of standard colours that appeared in > the colour charts. > > Furthermore (though this is surely of little use to anyone now) I still > have the computer coding > codicils for those variants from the production indent code book and they > were written: > > 1. NSTC or NSTC meaning non-standard trim colour dark green or tan > as applicable > 2 Non standard combos were written NSCSC > > Piping was white in all cases > > Sorry, Darrell > > Jonmac > > > >> Thanks for the info Lou, not what I wanted to hear - but that's how they >> were made. My original >> top boot is solid red however. I just think the Black over Red/white >> combination is a little busy >> versus traditional Black over Red. >> >> Robert >> >> -------- >> >> TRA's TR4A Concours guide states "....colors available for seats and >> other interior components were black, red or blue. Plastic piping was >> white." From pethier at comcast.net Thu Apr 16 16:21:30 2009 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 22:21:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? In-Reply-To: <507883416.2549981239920479775.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1786289391.2550251239920490183.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> ----- "Jerry Van Vlack" wrote: > From: "Jerry Van Vlack" > To: "John Macartney" , "Robert Davey" , Loumetelko at aol.com > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 5:04:39 PM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central > Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Interior ? > > My experience with Non Standard Combinations. > > I have written about this on a few occasions and John has always > responded > with a similar response. In my case his response is borne out by my > 1966 > TR4A. I've owned it since 1969 with relatively low mileage. It's Royal > Blue > with a Red Interior. [...] I have the Heritage Certificate which confirms the > originality > but no book mentions my particular color combination. Does anyone know > of > another TR4A with this combination? Or for that matter does anyone > else have > an original car with a non-standard color combination with > documentation? > I'm sure there are a lot of cars that have been repainted with new > interiors > in non-standard combinations but are they documented as original? I don't know about TR4A, but in I have heard that in the TR4, you could get red, blue, or black interior, regardless of exterior color. Phil Ethier From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Apr 16 20:00:34 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 19:00:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Pedal pusher? References: Message-ID: <015b01c9bf00$4ba59da0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> I stayed with the original .70 master on my '70 and installed the "long throw slave" cylinder. http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/TR250-TR6--Clutch%20Components/7967/Clutch%20Slave%20Cyl%20Long%20Throw%20TR6 With that and the SS hose I was able to move my seat back for comfort. Bob > From: Aldwyn > > An acquaintance just asked if I knew of a way or device to enable a > > vertically challenged individual to reach the clutch pedal in his TR6. E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12180 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Apr 16 17:02:36 2009 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 19:02:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? References: <1786289391.2550251239920490183.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <51393FB0AB0049CB91E19D01F1C9780A@userb38463fba5> That's exactly what John is saying! Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Interior ? > I don't know about TR4A, but in I have heard that in the TR4, you could > get red, blue, or black interior, regardless of exterior color. > > Phil Ethier From elliottr at rmi.net Thu Apr 16 17:56:20 2009 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 18:56:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph door panels Message-ID: <49E7C5A4.4040109@rmi.net> Hi, I am replacing the door windows in a TR250. The biggest problem I am having is trying to get the door panels back on. Trying to line up all those clips with the holes in door is just about driving me crazy. I decided that not all of the clips are really needed - but that doesn't help a lot. It seems every clip has to be positioned totally different than the one next to it. Has anyone come up with a tick that makes this easier? I know this is probably crossing the line, but if I could find velcro with a low enough profile, I would probably use that. Unfortunately, all that I have seen would make the door panel stick out too far. Any suggestions? Thanks, Roger Elliott From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Thu Apr 16 20:10:55 2009 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 22:10:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: <870976128.2354171239810268151.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <9D079B25ECF6488BB50F2CA112151C4C@Scott> <870976128.2354171239810268151.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4769707592E84FF4BF7DC853C9AC7A28@Scott> The problem ended up being the thickness of the new shoes. One edge on both shoes was about 4/64th thicker than the other edge. Using a flexible body sander, I brought this down and the drum went on fine. I still can't understand why it had fit before but it went on fine with the adjustment and I am happy. Thanks to all the help and ideas. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 _____ From: terryrs at comcast.net [mailto:terryrs at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 11:44 AM To: Scott Suhring Cc: DLylis at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum >Yes, I do not have the adjuster wedge screwed in at all. Yes, these are the >same shoes. This may seem a silly question, but did you by any chance fill the fluid resevoir and tap the brakes, such that the wheel cylinder is partially open? If so, it might be that releasing the bleeder screw will give you the clearance you need. Terry, BTDT New Hampshire From ZoboHerald at aol.com Thu Apr 16 20:16:58 2009 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 22:16:58 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A Interior ? Message-ID: In a message dated 4/16/2009 5:56:52 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: If nothing else, a car being here now is no guarantee that it was sold here originally. No doubt "personal export" vehicles were never more than a small minority, but they did exist. ==AM== How true. As luck would happen, two of the Heralds I own are "PED" cars, each quite unique. The 1960 Herald sedan is fully US-spec. (including a temp. gauge and a fuse box that home market cars didn't have), yet it has full home-market-spec. lighting (down to RHD bulb-and-reflector headlamps) as it was registered in Coventry and apparently remained in England for some time before coming to the States! The 1962 Herald 1200 is also unique in that it's a CoupC), a body style Triumph didn't sell in the US in that later 1200 series! ==AM== And it is still quite possible to import 60's cars from other countries. For example, I've seen more Vitesses than Sports 6s at some shows. ==AM== Not too surprising, since the Vitesse sold in Canada much longer than did the Sports 6 in the US. Oddly, though, some later Vitesses in Canada were badged with "Sports"! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b Starting at $479 (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220029082x1201385915/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213969145%3B35701480%3Bh) From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Apr 16 21:44:47 2009 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 23:44:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] 14TH ANNUAL SAN DIEGO ROLLING BRITISH CAR DAY 4-18-09 Message-ID: <10630505.1239939888060.JavaMail.root@mswamui-cedar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> 14TH ANNUAL SAN DIEGO ROLLING BRITISH CAR DAY SATURDAY, APRIL 18, 2009 MILTONbS DELI RESTAURANT FLOWER HILL SHOPPING, DEL MAR (east of Via de la Valle turn off, just North of Del Mar Racetrack) MEET AT 9:00 (OR EARLIER!!!!!) For tyre-kickinb, lie-tellin' and socializin' bPEDAL-TO-THE-MEDALb AT 10:00 If you want to have a full, sit-down breakfast at Miltonbs, allow an extra hour. Miltonbs, and several other places, do have bwalkbupb munchies, coffee, etc. Or bring your own A PICNIC LUNCH IS A MUST!!!!! DUST OFF THOSE PICNIC RECIPES AND YOUR BEST PICNIC BASKETWE WILL BE HAVING OUR PICNIC AT SAN DIEGUITO PARK WE WILL BE ASKING FOR A $5.00 DONATIONb $3.00 IS THE PARK FEE FOR PARKING (per car); $2.00 TO HELP OFFSET THE RESERVATION FEE NO RULES * NO TROPHIES * NO JUDGING NO TRAILER QUEENS * NO APPLICATONs [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Jaguar - John Fitch at Watkins Glen (Seneca Cup).jpg] From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Apr 16 22:03:03 2009 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 21:03:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph door panels In-Reply-To: <49E7C5A4.4040109@rmi.net> References: <49E7C5A4.4040109@rmi.net> Message-ID: <051CA6CA4E88441395DF8F32DC5E486C@JimofficePC> Roger, I did my TR250 several months ago and had similar problems in the beginning. I don't think Velcro would work as well as the clips and the 'sticky tape' would let go after a while, especially if they were to get really hot. Of course you probably aren't in Arizona, so that may not be as much of an issue! On my car I installed the clips in the panels first, paying little attention to the actual orientation of the clips themselves; Starting at the top front corner I installed the corner clip then worked my way towards the rear of the door, I used a pair of long nose pliers to rotate each clip in turn so the clip would be in the best position to hold the panel in the its proper position; When I had the top edge complete I worked my way down the outer edge; But before going too far I installed the window crank and the door handle making sure that the springs were installed in the correct orientation, I found that the panel would flex enough so that it was no problem to install the springs and the handles after I had several clips in place; Then I continued along the bottom edge of the door and then up the forward edge. I did not skip any clips as I definitely wanted the panels to remain in place! Of course YMMV! Good luck, Jim Jim Bauder 13534 E. Estrella Ave. Scottsdale, AZ 85259 Cell: 480-309-9525 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Elliott Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 4:56 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Triumph door panels Hi, I am replacing the door windows in a TR250. The biggest problem I am having is trying to get the door panels back on. Trying to line up all those clips with the holes in door is just about driving me crazy. I decided that not all of the clips are really needed - but that doesn't help a lot. It seems every clip has to be positioned totally different than the one next to it. Has anyone come up with a tick that makes this easier? I know this is probably crossing the line, but if I could find velcro with a low enough profile, I would probably use that. Unfortunately, all that I have seen would make the door panel stick out too far. Any suggestions? Thanks, Roger Elliott Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 16 22:58:34 2009 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 04:58:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: <508862146.1003801239540177847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <508862146.1003801239540177847.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I have my tools in a plastic ammo box. Mt battery is in the trunk. The tool box sits next to the battery both against the gas tank partition. Then I store a quart of oil, duct tape, window cleaner, & paper towels next to the tool box. When done in the right order this arrangement holds tthe tool box in place. In my T-bird I use a cloth construction tool bag with velcro on the bottom of it which locks it to the carpeting in the trunk. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor age2_042009 From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Fri Apr 17 00:16:10 2009 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 23:16:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Paint Message-ID: <807585.91471.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Who better to ask than Triumph owners! What should I expect - within reason - to pay to have my TR6 repainted and repair a little rust? I stopped by a custom restoration place a couple weeks ago and chatted with the owner explaining what I was looking for. Not Maaco or Earle Scheibe but not his best paint job either.(he has an old Ford Coupe they restored and the paint is red - perfect for $55k) Told him maybe he could point me in the right direction. I'll ask you guys. I don't much care about where the sun don't shine but where it does I'm thinking of changing from Frenchblue to a dark blue. John Summers Jacksonville, Fl '74 TR6 From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Fri Apr 17 04:19:20 2009 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 12:19:20 +0200 Subject: [TR] Wiring query References: <1D8990F546214335B452561366FCCDA7@Study> <06023B6C638945F380FD026E11BCE0AE@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Thanks for the responses. As per norm you are right Randall. The DPO managed to impart a black stripe to that part of the green wire from the VS which is immediately visible under the dashboard.! Regards, David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 20440 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Apr 17 06:05:53 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 08:05:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint In-Reply-To: <807585.91471.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <807585.91471.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200904170805.54123.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 17 April 2009 02:16:10 John Summers wrote: > Who better to ask than Triumph owners! What should I expect - within > reason - to pay to have my TR6 repainted and repair a little rust? I > stopped by a custom restoration place a couple weeks ago and chatted with > the owner explaining what I was looking for. Not Maaco or Earle Scheibe > but not his best paint job either.(he has an old Ford Coupe they restored > and the paint is red - perfect for $55k) Told him maybe he could point me > in the right direction. I'll ask you guys. I don't much care about where > the sun don't shine but where it does I'm thinking of changing from > Frenchblue to a dark blue. John Summers > Jacksonville, Fl > '74 TR6 John, Cant give you a $ figure but just the paint these days is very expensive. Currently the paint I am going to use on my 6 project goes for over 350 a gallon. And then you add in the primer, hardener etc and the cost for just the supplies approaches 500 bucks! For a good body shop to do rust repair the correct way may require them to cut off the rust and weld in new metal and finish with lead. That is also labor intensive. Most restoration shops are charging anywhere from 45 to 65 $ an hour. I know my paint job will not stack up against a professional but I am not in the concours business. And what is wrong with French Blue? French Blue is my choice for my 6 project. I think the color will look real nice next to my Pale Yellow 58 3 and my Spa White 63 4! Bob From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Fri Apr 17 06:13:00 2009 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 08:13:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint In-Reply-To: <200904170805.54123.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <807585.91471.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <200904170805.54123.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20090417081130.04290b80@216.7.163.243> I have recieved a couple of quotes for my Six, and they have all been around 5K +/- for body and engine compartment, without body work. Bondo extra. :) - Aldwyn At 08:05 AM 4/17/2009, Bob wrote: >On Friday 17 April 2009 02:16:10 John Summers wrote: > > Who better to ask than Triumph owners! What should I expect - within > > reason - to pay to have my TR6 repainted and repair a little rust? I > > stopped by a custom restoration place a couple weeks ago and chatted with > > the owner explaining what I was looking for. Not Maaco or Earle Scheibe > > but not his best paint job either.(he has an old Ford Coupe they restored > > and the paint is red - perfect for $55k) Told him maybe he could point me > > in the right direction. I'll ask you guys. I don't much care about where > > the sun don't shine but where it does I'm thinking of changing from > > Frenchblue to a dark blue. John Summers > > Jacksonville, Fl > > '74 TR6 >John, From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Apr 17 07:04:23 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:04:23 EDT Subject: [TR] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) Message-ID: Dennis, As you joined us at Road America, please stop by again at Road Atlanta. We will be near the Classic Motorsports Tent and flying the FOT Banner. Joe Alexander > Hi all - > > > Anybody else on the list(s) planning to attend The Mitty this > > > year? I'm driving down from upstate NY and will be staying at > > > the host hotel. It's a Jaguar weekend but I'll be there in my TR6. > > > I'm hoping to find a way into Road Atlanta on Thursday, the > > > practice day - any racers need an extra crew member? Thanks. > > > Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH > Soon to be dctr6 at optonline.net) > _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Apr 17 11:43:49 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:43:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rear Brake Drum In-Reply-To: <4769707592E84FF4BF7DC853C9AC7A28@Scott> References: <9D079B25ECF6488BB50F2CA112151C4C@Scott><870976128.2354171239810268151.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <4769707592E84FF4BF7DC853C9AC7A28@Scott> Message-ID: <4DCB57648D5047E8BAD1111833FF6142@jdnet.deere.com> > The problem ended up being the thickness of the new shoes Glad you got it fixed, Scott. What was stumping me was your statement originally that you had "changed nothing else"; which I thought was in reference to the wheel cylinder. -- Randall From leejohn7 at gmail.com Fri Apr 17 11:43:51 2009 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 10:43:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] EZCarLift Message-ID: I just had a call from Boytcho Manev, the designer and maker of this excellent lift. He suggested that we triumph owners might not know about about a "group buy" that is under way for the lift. Go to www.gotogroupbuy.com for details. He says list price is $1995. I know nothing about the group buy site and its process, but can attest that the lift works as advertised and is nicely made and finished. The auxiliary wheels are a desirable option as they allow you to easily roll your car around while on the lift. I have no interest in this other than to alert you all to a good deal on a good product. John Howard, TR4's From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Apr 17 16:33:05 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 22:33:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Paint In-Reply-To: <807585.91471.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20639142.3441921240007585886.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Who better to ask than Triumph owners! B What should I expect - within reason - to pay to have my TR6 repainted and repair a little rust? B I stopped by a custom restoration >place a couple weeks ago and chatted with the owner explaining what I was looking for. B Not Maaco or Earle Scheibe but not his best paint job either.(he has an old Ford >Coupe they restored and the paint is red - perfect for $55k) B Told him maybe he could point me in the right direction. >I'll ask you guys. B I don't much care about where the sun don't shine but where it does I'm thinking of changing from Frenchblue to a dark blue. $2,000 for a '50's style hot rod builder with an Elvis haircut to take a TR3A body with no floors, a rotted rear valence, and rusted front/bottom valence,B with the whole shell sawn in half, welded and painted back to the car.B Done within a year too. I hear people complain about body guys they encounter, but Bill was expert and hardcore...refusing even to wear paper respirators when he sands.B He still smokes Marloboros too, and seems to still be breathing. In fact, somebody saw my car in his shop, and bought a similar TR3A from Arizona.B Judging from the rust, this Arizona saw some military service in the snow country.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From mgodley at tiac.net Fri Apr 17 18:42:48 2009 From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 20:42:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Door Panels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8DD98ED33EAC48B0A4B5FBE1670347C7@MichaelPC> Roger Elliott In a message dated 4/17/2009 3:34:19 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Who better to ask than Triumph owners! B What should I expect - within reason - to pay to have my TR6 repainted and repair a little rust? B I stopped by a custom restoration >place a couple weeks ago and chatted with the owner explaining what I was looking for. B Not Maaco or Earle Scheibe but not his best paint job either.(he has an old Ford >Coupe they restored and the paint is red - perfect for $55k) B Told him maybe he could point me in the right direction. >I'll ask you guys. B I don't much care about where the sun don't shine but where it does I'm thinking of changing from Frenchblue to a dark blue. $2,000 for a '50's style hot rod builder with an Elvis haircut to take a TR3A body with no floors, a rotted rear valence, and rusted front/bottom valence,B with the whole shell sawn in half, welded and painted back to the car.B Done within a year too. I hear people complain about body guys they encounter, but Bill was expert and hardcore...refusing even to wear paper respirators when he sands.B He still smokes Marloboros too, and seems to still be breathing. In fact, somebody saw my car in his shop, and bought a similar TR3A from Arizona.B Judging from the rust, this Arizona saw some military service in the snow country.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire Terry, I don't understand what you are saying here. $2000 for a TR3A body and paint,including floors, is very very cheap. Did you get it back yet? Are you happy with it? Mike Moore From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Apr 18 07:15:52 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 13:15:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Paint In-Reply-To: <1046803413.3548791240060155781.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1489689938.3550541240060552982.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >Terry, I don't understand what you are saying here. $2000 for a TR3A body and paint,including floors, is very very cheap. Did you get it back yet? Are you happy with it? Yes, $2,000 is very cheap.B Bill took it as a "side" assignment, to be worked on when he had a chance.B Best deal I could get since nobody else wanted to touch a car in two pieces.B Except for him.B He wanted the challenge. The car turned out beautiful.B I can post pictures somewhere if someone tells me how. I drive it 45 minutes each to and from work every day from April to November.B Glad to have the heater working again! Terry From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Apr 18 07:41:58 2009 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 13:41:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Dieseling In-Reply-To: <20639142.3441921240007585886.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <810553946.3557601240062118453.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Hoo boy.B I've been reading archives until my eyes crossed trying to find a consistent answer about how to stop an engine from running on.B I've actually run this car for three full seasons without dieseling.B At inspection I asked my (extremely good) mechanic who's owned many of these to adjust the carbs.B Apparently I had been running rich by about two full flats.B My mpg has improved from nearly 22 mpg to a bit over 25 mpg.B But now the engine diesels.B One suggestion was carbon deposits.B This could be, though I run at 3800 RPM's for 30 minutes every day. Another suggestion was plugs fouling, usually related to carbon deposits, I guess.B Mine are tan. Another suggestion was to use higher octane fuel.B I will if I have to, but I'd prefer a mechanical solution first.B Besides, ISTR that consensus on the List was that these cars were meant to run on regular? Yet another suggestion had to do with timing.B I haven't checked that for a while. When I did, I set it to factory specs by measuring the diameter of the pulley, did the math of degrees-to-inches,B then put a dot of white-out where the advance timing should be.B ISTR it was 4 degrees. And yet another suggestion was that the butterflies weren't closing completely.B This one has me wondering because of two things:B a) the engine flutters momentarily when accelerating out of idle, and b) the engine doesn't hit idle immediately, albeit it's much better since installing a third spring to the linkage.B On the other hand, I've tested the cylinders and they lift and drop smoothly with a distinct clunk. Whoops.B Looks like my keyboard is dieseling on.B I'll stop now and solicit any thoughts that might put this thing to rest? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From fishplate at charter.net Sat Apr 18 08:22:42 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 10:22:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dieseling In-Reply-To: <810553946.3557601240062118453.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westch ester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <20639142.3441921240007585886.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <810553946.3557601240062118453.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: At 09:41 AM 4/18/2009, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >I've actually run this car for three full seasons without dieseling.B At >inspection I asked my (extremely good) mechanic who's owned many of these to >adjust the carbs.B Apparently I had been running rich by about two full >flats.B My mpg has improved from nearly 22 mpg to a bit over 25 mpg.B But >now the engine diesels.B Try turning it one flat richer...how is the engine temperature? Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 18 10:02:08 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 09:02:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dieseling In-Reply-To: <810553946.3557601240062118453.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090418160208714.ZSSG9765.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > Hoo boy.B I've been reading archives until my eyes crossed > trying to find a consistent answer about how to stop an > engine from running on. I don't think there is a consistent answer, or even a consensus. > One suggestion was carbon deposits.B This could be, though I > run at 3800 RPM's for 30 minutes every day. Modern fuel leaves much harder deposits than the old leaded stuff did. I don't know what all is in there, but it's not just carbon and it's much harder to remove than the old stuff was. > Besides, ISTR that consensus on the List was that these cars > were meant to run on regular? I guess I'm a dissenter, then. "Practical Hints" states only Premium fuel of 95 research octane or higher. Of course in the US they only publish the average of research and motor octane (RON+MON/2), but assuming the difference is about 10 points (as per Bruce Hamilton's Gasoline FAQ), that means you want fuel with an advertised octane of 90. Even Premium around here is usually only 89. > And yet another suggestion was that the butterflies weren't > closing completely. Which of course would also cause high idle rpm. Getting the idle rpm down low will definitely help prevent run-on (but may also make the engine tend to die after sudden stops). > I'll stop > now and solicit any thoughts that might put this thing to rest? FWIW my TR3A started wanting to run-on sometimes; not too long after leaded fuel became unavailable. This problem has persisted, occasionally, through may other changes. I've been living with the problem, by 'killing' the engine with the clutch just as it should stop anyway. Leave it in gear, foot firmly on the brake, and let the clutch out just as the engine should stop. It is possible that there are adverse effects from this; but I've not seen any in almost 20 years of doing it an average of twice a day. Never even wore out a clutch plate (tho it has been changed for other reasons). Other steps that should help with run-on: 1) Lower the idle rpm. 2) Switch to a colder spark plug 3) Remove the cylinder liners and clean out all the crud that accumulates around #4. 4) Radius all the sharp corners in the combustion chamber. 5) If all else fails, it shouldn't be too hard to add a anti-run-on solenoid from a later TR6. Have to drill & tap the filter head to mount the oil pressure switch; drill & tap the intake manifold for a vacuum source; and add a relay to provide the "normally closed" contact from the ignition switch. Then it's just a matter of mounting components and running hoses & wires. HTH Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 18 10:26:30 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 09:26:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Paint In-Reply-To: <1489689938.3550541240060552982.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090418162630524.ZWBT27147.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com> > I can post pictures somewhere > if someone tells me how. Go to http://www.team.net/the-local/ Near the upper right hand corner, at the bottom of the "Login" box, click on the "register" link to create an account. After you've created your account, look on the left side for a link that says "Image Galleries" and click on that. Near the top of the page, above where it says "Available Galleries", click on the link for "create new gallery". Fill in the name and description (the other fields can be left alone), then click on 'save' at the bottom. Now again on the left side, find "Image Galleries". Below that will hopefully be a link that says "Upload image", but you may have to click on the folder symbol to get the upload link. Click on the "Upload image" link. Fill in the name & description fields, then use the 'Browse' button to choose the file from your hard drive that you want to upload. Lather, rinse, repeat. Afterwards, you can look through your new gallery, and make any changes. Then you can copy the URL from your browser, and post it here so we can all go admire your efforts. Eg, http://www.team.net/the-local/tiki-browse_gallery.php?galleryId=33 Randall From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sat Apr 18 12:12:33 2009 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 20:12:33 +0200 Subject: [TR] Wiring query References: <1D8990F546214335B452561366FCCDA7@Study> <06023B6C638945F380FD026E11BCE0AE@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <4801684E986E40239B2154FDEDD95FD7@Study> Thanks for the responses. As per norm you are right Randall. The DPO managed to impart a black stripe to that part of the green wire from the VS which is immediately visible under the dashboard.! Regards, David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 20503 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From carlsereda at aol.com Sat Apr 18 12:49:18 2009 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 11:49:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 3, Issue 177 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <76BFD32A.400C.48ED.9DC4.C1D5892EB076@aol.com> The 4-banger engine in my '63 Volvo would run-on for 10 minutes with ignition turned off - until I got carbs rebushed, new butterfly shafts, and plates. Now it stops dead. I've been reading archives until my eyes crossed trying to find a consistent answer about how to stop an engine from running on. From diggle at clear.net.nz Sat Apr 18 15:34:46 2009 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Diggle) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 09:34:46 +1200 Subject: [TR] Dieseling Message-ID: When the took the lead out of gasoline in New Zealand running on became more of a problem. Mine and other cars run on with lower octane petrol and also bad petrol. My motor has bit higher than normal compression which means that it only runs well on 98 octane fuel. During a major get together quite a few of us filled up at a certain gas station and experienced major running on. Mine went away as soon as I had used up that fuel and refilled. Jim Vassiliadis and the TR4 From red_tr250 at hotmail.com Sat Apr 18 18:36:22 2009 From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 20:36:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph 2000/Stag Subframe Bushings Message-ID: Hi All, I'm the proud owner of a 1968 Triumph 2000 Mk1. I'm rebushing the entire car as well as installing 1" lower Fast Road springs. The driver side subframe section has some serious rust. I sourced another as well as a replacement trailing arm for that side...the old one was actually bent??? After fighting with the bolt that goes down thru the body & getting the whole mess apart, I'm sitting scratching my head trying to figure out how the new subframe bushings install. The old rubber bushings were kinda split in 2 One on the bottom side of the frame section & one on the top side between the frame & the body. I bought the Rimmer bushing kit. The subframe mount is a lot different in that kit. It's one big long metal "cup" with the urethane inside as well as a spacer sleeve. So I'm not sure how it installs vs the old bushing. I'm not sure if the "cup" slides down thru the hole in the frame from the top side or if the entire bushing butts up against the bottom of the frame section? Also, on the old bush there was a large washer above it and then a rubber bush between the washer & the body. Do I leave that rubber bush & washer in place or is it redundant? I would assume the Stag bushings would be the same? Also, for those of you that have done the front end ie: bushings, springs, & ball joints. Is there a trick on the ball joints and the springs? I have the "book" & I have set of harbor freight spring compressors. I've never done a strut arrangement. I'm used to TRs. TIA, Todd Bermudez Cincy, OH _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor age2_042009 From timipurdy at citlink.net Sat Apr 18 18:44:14 2009 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 17:44:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nothing Finer Message-ID: <49EA73DE.3090603@citlink.net> Its been a long cold spring in the mountains of California. Today the temp reached 65, with higher on the way, so off with top and a great drive had. It will not be until June, before the remainder of cold/snowy conditions are history, but what glorious fun I had today and looking for tomorrow. Tim _______________________________________ No viruses found in this outgoing message Scanned by iolo AntiVirus 1.5.4.5 http://www.iolo.com From DLylis at aol.com Sat Apr 18 18:44:22 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 20:44:22 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 3A Oil breather tube Message-ID: After I rebuilt my motor I posted that I was getting oil out of the breather tube when parked in the garage, and while driving based upon what I see on the underside. Because I had newly rebuilt I wrote it off to blow by and waited until the motor broke in. Well, I now have 178 - 181 compression readings and nice cardboard brown plugs and she runs very well. . . and the oil still drips from the breather tube. I have an aftermarket alloy valve cover and I have over drilled the vent hole in the cap and on the underside of the cap, and don't lay on the cap when I screw it on. Still. . . So I checked my oil level and removed the new felt on the dipstick that was about four times thicker than the one that came off and filled the oil to the 3/4 mark with the new dipstick position. Still. . . Comments? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web. Try the new Email Toolbar now! (http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown00000027) From wbeech at flash.net Sat Apr 18 19:51:20 2009 From: wbeech at flash.net (Wbeech@flash.net) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 19:51:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 gas tank... Say it ain't so Message-ID: <326145.23871.bm@omp403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello List, Well, the good news is that I got my '58 body and chassis back from the shop after 15 months and it looks terrific! So, I started first to install the fuel system starting with the gas tank. After wrestling with the tank and fuel lines all the way up to the fuel pump I was feeling pretty good and figured putting the fuel inlet hose and cap on would be a good finish for the day. Well, I am not seeing how this short hose and threaded sleeve will go on under the rear deck... and I don't recall how it came off. As tight as the tank was to maneuver into position I can't think that it would go on before the tank was installed. Can someone help with the proper sequence of events for this? As much as I would hate to have to take the tank out again, if I must, I must, Thanks in advance, * Bill B * '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L * '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO * "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Apr 18 20:02:15 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:02:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint References: Message-ID: > In a message dated 4/17/2009 3:34:19 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > terryrs at comcast.net writes: > > Who better to ask than Triumph owners! B What should I expect - within > reason > - to pay to have my TR6 repainted and repair a little rust? B I stopped > by ============================================================================================================ The cost of your ==paint== take it to your local Industrial High School, they are usually always looking for good teaching material == and whom could be better/prouder than a teenager as to how it looks, BTDT. FT From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Apr 18 20:11:43 2009 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:11:43 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 3A Oil breather tube Message-ID: In a message dated 4/18/2009 5:45:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: After I rebuilt my motor I posted that I was getting oil out of the breather tube when parked in the garage, and while driving based upon what I see on the underside. Because I had newly rebuilt I wrote it off to blow by and waited until the motor broke in. Well, I now have 178 - 181 compression readings and nice cardboard brown plugs and she runs very well. . . and the oil still drips from the breather tube. I have an aftermarket alloy valve cover and I have over drilled the vent hole in the cap and on the underside of the cap, and don't lay on the cap when I screw it on. Still. . . So I checked my oil level and removed the new felt on the dipstick that was about four times thicker than the one that came off and filled the oil to the 3/4 mark with the new dipstick position. Still. . . Comments? My freshly rebuilt engine with a cast valve cover blew oil all over the place, It really needs that breather cap on top . I replaced my alloy cover with a factory cover and my problems went away. I gave the cover to a friend , a machinist, and he added a great big vent and uses it. Mike Moore From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Apr 18 21:43:51 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 20:43:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 gas tank... Say it ain't so In-Reply-To: <326145.23871.bm@omp403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <326145.23871.bm@omp403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49EA9DF7.8050102@comcast.net> I just finished installing the tank in my 57 TR3. I used Randall's suggestion and cut the hose short enough that it would slide all the way down on the tank inlet allowing it to clear the threaded sleeve as the tank is tipped into place from the passenger compartment. I then slid the hose up on to the threaded sleeve and clamped it in place. There is just enough overlap on the tank and sleeve for the width of normal worm type hose clamps. I have wondered how the did this at the factory, as mine had a much longer section of hose on it when I took it apart. Hope this helps. Mike Wbeech at flash.net wrote: > Hello List, > > Well, the good news is that I got my '58 body and chassis back from the shop > after 15 months and it looks terrific! So, I started first to install the > fuel system starting with the gas tank. After wrestling with the tank and > fuel lines all the way up to the fuel pump I was feeling pretty good and > figured putting the fuel inlet hose and cap on would be a good finish for > the day. > > Well, I am not seeing how this short hose and threaded sleeve will go on > under the rear deck... and I don't recall how it came off. As tight as the > tank was to maneuver into position I can't think that it would go on before > the tank was installed. Can someone help with the proper sequence of events > for this? As much as I would hate to have to take the tank out again, if I > must, I must, From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Apr 18 21:57:44 2009 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 20:57:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Valve Packing Message-ID: <49EAA138.1040609@comcast.net> Randall, I remember reading a post from you where you told about rebuilding your fuel shut off valve. I haven't been able to find it again by searching the archives. The packing in the valve on my 57 TR3 is as hard as a rock. I have considered using a short section of fuel hose that is the proper OD as a replacement, but I seem to remember you saying something about using o-rings. What exactly was it that you did as a repair? Thanks, Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Apr 18 22:29:58 2009 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 21:29:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Valve Packing In-Reply-To: <49EAA138.1040609@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20090419042959735.NPIU9765.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com> > I have considered > using a short section of fuel hose that is the proper OD as a > replacement, That is exactly what I did, Mike. In fact, I did it a second time just a few months ago, for my 'project' TR3. The adjustment becomes rather critical with the fuel line, only a fraction of a turn between so tight you can't move the valve, and loose enough to leak. But once adjusted, it worked for me for many years. Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Apr 18 23:44:51 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 23:44:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] Amazing model railroad Message-ID: <9D8E05DD-A3B1-4C4D-A9DB-707633DEFE0E@comcast.net> Obligatory TR content: There's a blue TR4 or TR4A, in this model railroad clip. http://dvice.com/archives/2009/03/astonishing_mos.php Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Apr 18 23:48:29 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 23:48:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Amazing Model Railroad Message-ID: Obligatory TR content: There's a blue TR4 or TR4A, in this model railroad clip. http://dvice.com/archives/2009/03/astonishing_mos.php Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Apr 19 04:49:21 2009 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 06:49:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel Valve Packing References: <49EAA138.1040609@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1ECC27509D584C32A8EDEDEDFADBF9E0@fred8kwiskhcfu> Victory-British carrries a rebuild kit for it, vey easy and straight forward ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Lang" To: "triumph list" Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 11:57 PM Subject: [TR] Fuel Valve Packing > Randall, > > I remember reading a post from you where you told about rebuilding your > fuel shut off valve. I haven't been able to find it again by searching > the archives. The packing in the valve on my 57 TR3 is as hard as a > rock. I have considered using a short section of fuel hose that is the > proper OD as a replacement, but I seem to remember you saying something > about using o-rings. What exactly was it that you did as a repair? > > Thanks, > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Sun Apr 19 05:44:03 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 07:44:03 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 gas tank... Say it ain't so Message-ID: You must loosen the tank so that you can move it and tip it, but I don't think completely remove it. At least I didn't have to. Having said that, I found that the hose portion was too long and put way too much pressure on the rear deck. I assembled it all without the hose and got a measure of proper length so as to fit it with adequate amount for clamping. I think it was hose on tank, tank in place, then filler assembly. Moving the tank in place with the hose on it required a bit of distortion to the hose until it got into place. Be careful of crud falling into the tank when doing this. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220814852x1201410738/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26 hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Apr 19 08:43:35 2009 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 10:43:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Amazing model railroad Message-ID: In a message dated 4/19/2009 12:45:41 AM Central Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: > Obligatory TR content: There's a blue TR4 or TR4A, in this model > railroad clip. > > http://dvice.com/archives/2009/03/astonishing_mos.php > Pulled over for speeding, no less. Dave From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Apr 19 08:47:02 2009 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 10:47:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dieseling In-Reply-To: <-5079782984141250474@unknownmsgid> References: <810553946.3557601240062118453.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> <-5079782984141250474@unknownmsgid> Message-ID: <6fa72a770904190747y6851074asc0cc01af124cad43@mail.gmail.com> Funny how these topics appear just as my car does a similar thing. For the first time in a very long time - my car dieseled yesterday. I now have a course of action and for me it's hopefully simple. The idle crept up to 1200 from 800 (where I normally keep it) as a result of fixing a stuck vaccuum advance, playing with the dizzy, or adding gas treament and driving for 4 hours at 70mph +. Or some combination of the above. I'll bring the idle back down today. I imagine bad timing could be a be a suspect for me here, too as I just played with the Dizzy and left it in a place where it seemed to run the best vs putting a light or even static timing it.... All the best, Chris 63 tr4 From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sun Apr 19 08:52:41 2009 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 10:52:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR Toolbox In-Reply-To: References: