From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 1 00:52:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2008 23:52:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Strange engine miss In-Reply-To: <73D18CF801217C43A9E97372BED0124C02961A@bhqexch01.baltohq.visicu.net> Message-ID: <20080901065240.HNJP27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > I am guessing this is the cause of the problem and need to > fix the timing. How do I get the rotor to point to cylinder 1?? That's normally done by rotating the distributor body. If you can't turn it that far (because the advance is hitting the head), you'll need to remove the pedestal and change the engagement of the drive gear with the camshaft. But equally important is where the points open as the shaft turns. If the points are opening with the rotor pointing between cylinders, then there is something wrong inside the distributor, like perhaps the centrifugal advance mechanism has come apart. Randall From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 1 05:11:49 2008 From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 04:11:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Glen Head Count (Jay Holekamp) Message-ID: <637120.4799.qm@web80402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I'll arrive Wed. Triumph Racing Green '64 TR4, Illinois plate: TTRR44. brgds, Jay '64 Triumph TR4 since '67 From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Sep 1 07:20:18 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 09:20:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Glen head count In-Reply-To: <0198BD70-5DF0-489B-9CD9-76BDC6AB7172@mac.com> References: <0198BD70-5DF0-489B-9CD9-76BDC6AB7172@mac.com> Message-ID: If everything falls in place this week we will be arriving in Evelyn's car she has wanted for years, a green TR8. Hoping to finalize the purchase this week. Then we will have one of each Triumph (4 cyl, 6 cyl, 8 cyl). Marty Green TR8 with Ohio plates TBD. _________________________________________________________________ Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with Windows.. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/ From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Mon Sep 1 07:41:26 2008 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 09:41:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] The Glen In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: From L1J1S at aol.com Mon Sep 1 07:58:43 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 09:58:43 EDT Subject: [TR] THE GLEN-CONCOURSE EVENT Message-ID: Hello, does anyone know which day the concourse event is going to be held? larry schwartz **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Sep 1 08:46:46 2008 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 10:46:46 EDT Subject: [TR] Help deciphering Standard Triumph hardware catalog vs. Triumph Spare... Message-ID: In a message dated 9/1/2008 12:50:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: The reason they have a 'special' part number (not in the standard hardware catalog) is because they are a special fastener. The unthreaded shank is longer than usual, the threaded portion is shorter than usual. If memory serves, the shank is also larger than usual (full nominal size, rather than the usual "easy fitting" undersize). My suggestion is to buy the proper fastener from TRF et al. More expensive, but not nearly as expensive as ruining a flange (by having threads cut into it). Randall is absolutely correct. You can't get the correct fastener anywhere but one of the Triumph parts houses. Using something else that almost fits from McMasterCarr (or anywhere else) WILL eventually result in catastrophic failure of one of your flange joints. Cheers, Jack Mc **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Sep 1 11:43:23 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 10:43:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] strange engine miss Message-ID: <723952.35345.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> just a note that if you do change or turn the distributor drive gear in order to turn your distributor. remember to make sure the distributor shaft is engaged with the oil pump drive when you re-insert the distributor. (speaking from experience) lol good luck gary n. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Sep 1 13:00:33 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 13:00:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] THE GLEN-CONCOURSE EVENT - links In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48BC3BD1.4050006@tscusa.org> Hi Larry, It is supposed to be Friday at Watkins Glen State Park. Judging starts at 10 am. Have a look for full festival description and schedule information at http://www.grandprixrestival.com or http://www.grandprixfestival.com/schedule.html Race Track schedule of events are located on http://svra.com in the Vintage Race Section or also here *http://tinyurl.com/5sez3q* L1J1S at aol.com wrote: > Hello, does anyone know which day the concourse event is going to be held? > larry schwartz > > -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA 2009 Charity Drive North American Coordinator Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Mon Sep 1 13:50:14 2008 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 15:50:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel pump check valves Message-ID: <000901c90c6b$f3fa9750$6700a8c0@andy> I'm on the digest, and apologize if this has come up lately. I bought a fuel pump rebuild kit, but when I disassembled the fuel pump, it did not have the retainer and two screw. Apparently the check valves were pressed into the pump. The check valves with the kit are loose and do not stay in place. Has anyone run up against this, and what was your solution solution? TIA Andy From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Mon Sep 1 13:55:19 2008 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 15:55:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fuel pump check valves Message-ID: <000a01c90c6c$a9aba710$6700a8c0@andy> Sorry, That would be a '59 TR3A AC fuel pump. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 1 15:17:32 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 14:17:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel pump check valves In-Reply-To: <000a01c90c6c$a9aba710$6700a8c0@andy> References: <000a01c90c6c$a9aba710$6700a8c0@andy> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809011417h53e08281r7d99eb94873da242@mail.gmail.com> Some pumps used a little butterfly-shaped metal piece secured with one or two screws to retain the check valves. Others require the check valves to be 'staked' to be held in place, i.e. metal along the edge deformed with a punch to secure the valve. Were your old valves a friction fit or can you see where they were staked in? On 9/1/08, Andy wrote: > Sorry, That would be a '59 TR3A AC fuel pump. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From FGFO1 at aol.com Mon Sep 1 15:29:47 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 17:29:47 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 oilite bush Message-ID: Any one know what material the oilite bush is made from? The oilite bush is the bronze colored bush that fits into the back of the crank. The input shaft of the gearbox fits inside it. While we are talking about it, I cant locate mine right now so does any one have an accurate length for that bush? Its either 1.000 to 1.160 or someplace in-between. thanks Frank Fisher **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From spitlist at cox.net Mon Sep 1 15:42:20 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 14:42:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 oilite bush In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CFC81ED7495471FB157423064326810@newcomputer> I thought you were referring to the close relationship that "W" has with the oil industry! :) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FGFO1 at aol.com Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 2:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 oilite bush Any one know what material the oilite bush is made from? The oilite bush is the bronze colored bush that fits into the back of the crank. The input shaft of the gearbox fits inside it. While we are talking about it, I cant locate mine right now so does any one have an accurate length for that bush? Its either 1.000 to 1.160 or someplace in-between. thanks Frank Fisher **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From peterara at msn.com Mon Sep 1 15:46:33 2008 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 14:46:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] loss of power Message-ID: OK, gentlemen, a paradox for the weekend.... My 1971 TR6 has a problem. Symptom: I am going down the road and roll into full throttle. the car has a loss of power. Not a miss fire; not a bucking from a cylinder not firing. More like your car would do on a cold morning when the choke slips off and it sound like the cylinders are dead. But it happens when up to temperature no choke. Can happen in any gear at any speed. Pulling the choke makes no difference. Opening the gas cap (I can reach back and open it on the run to check venting) makes no difference. It will run fine at high speed/rpm, but I cannot get there under full throttle. Idles fine. When it first occurred some months ago, my tech guys checked the electrics - all OK. They replaced the fuel filters and that helped - for a while. They were limited in time so gave it back to me to take home and work on myself. I parked it at work. When I went to drive home - all was fine! No loss of power no sound of dead cylinders. Was fine for about 3 months. Went to get my hair cut - about a 6 mile drive. On the way back it started again. I waited for the next opportunity to open up the throttle - I was driving through town - when I did, all was fine! Now again, couple months later, driving into work last Friday, all OK. Went to run some errands at lunch - dead cylinders at full throttle. When I drove home after work - all fine! I checked and replaced the fuel filters today - no signs of blockage. When I pulled the fuel line on the tank side of the fuel pump to that filter had plenty of fuel pour out. When I work the primer on the pump, plenty of fuel squirts out the line near the carbs. Thought a bad diaphragm in either the fuel pump or carbs - but it heals - so don't really think so. The thing is it heals! and is intermittent! thoughts? suggestions? thanks... Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Sep 1 16:06:50 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 15:06:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 lever shocks Message-ID: <495579.53684.qm@web59614.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm renewing the lever shocks on my tr-3 project. I plan on simply draining the oil and putting in fresh. I took off the upper lid and simply emptied it. There's also a large nut on the side near the bottom which I took off, removing the valve and spring and drained. pumping to drain. While I had the shock in the vise and everything open I also poured some cleaner in the top......(hoping to wash out any gunk).......but upon pumping it never pumped through or came out the bottom. Are these separate chambers? and upon renewing do I fill each chamber separately? Also what fluid? I've heard various choices of oils. thanks! gary n. From peterara at msn.com Mon Sep 1 16:10:27 2008 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 15:10:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] loss of power Message-ID: One more thing... I ride a commuter bus to work these days so the car will sit for a week or so between drives. I run Chevron premium gas. Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Sep 1 16:13:40 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 18:13:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] loss of power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CADA971FD29296-4B0-4C4F@FWM-M32.sysops.aol.com> Peter, Sure sounds like a fuel blockage.? How has it performed since you changed the fuel filters today?? There arent many fuel lines on the TR6.? Perhaps you could disconnect the fuel line on the intake side of the fuel pump, as well as disconnect it from the fuel tank and blow some compressed air backwards into a towel to recover what comes out, if anything.? Do the same thing between the carbs and the output side of the fuel pump?? Any chance that someone has thrown something in your fuel tank?? Something that might periodically shift and cover up the outlet?? Sounds like a good time to stick a fuel shut-off valve under the tank as the hose exits the fuel tank. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Peter Arakelian To: Listers Sent: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 5:46 pm Subject: [TR] loss of power OK, gentlemen, a paradox for the weekend.... My 1971 TR6 has a problem. Symptom: I am going down the road and roll into full throttle. the car has a loss of power. Not a miss fire; not a bucking from a cylinder not firing. More like your car would do on a cold morning when the choke slips off and it sound like the cylinders are dead. But it happens when up to temperature no choke. Can happen in any gear at any speed. Pulling the choke makes no difference. Opening the gas cap (I can reach back and open it on the run to check venting) makes no difference. It will run fine at high speed/rpm, but I cannot get there under full throttle. Idles fine. When it first occurred some months ago, my tech guys checked the electrics - all OK. They replaced the fuel filters and that helped - for a while. They were limited in time so gave it back to me to take home and work on myself. I parked it at work. When I went to drive home - all was fine! No loss of power no sound of dead cylinders. Was fine for about 3 months. Went to get my hair cut - about a 6 mile drive. On the way back it started again. I waited for the next opportunity to open up the throttle - I was driving through town - when I did, all was fine! Now again, couple months later, driving into work last Friday, all OK. Went to run some errands at lunch - dead cylinders at full throttle. When I drove home after work - all fine! I checked and replaced the fuel filters today - no signs of blockage. When I pulled the fuel line on the tank side of the fuel pump to that filter had plenty of fuel pour out. When I work the primer on the pump, plenty of fuel squirts out the line near the carbs. Thought a bad diaphragm in either the fuel pump or carbs - but it heals - so don't really think so. The thing is it heals! and is intermittent! thoughts? suggestions? thanks... Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 1 16:46:09 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 15:46:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 oilite bush In-Reply-To: <8CFC81ED7495471FB157423064326810@newcomputer> References: <8CFC81ED7495471FB157423064326810@newcomputer> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809011546o2cdbbb4fv39fe1216c1371e9b@mail.gmail.com> I believe it is made of sintered bronze. That bushing is sometimes called the Pilot Bush which also refers back to Joe's message. On 9/1/08, Joe Curry wrote: > I thought you were referring to the close relationship that "W" has with the > oil industry! :) > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > FGFO1 at aol.com > Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 2:30 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] TR3 oilite bush > > Any one know what material the oilite bush is made from? > The oilite bush is the bronze colored bush that fits into the back of the > crank. The input shaft of the gearbox fits inside it. > While we are talking about it, I cant locate mine right now so does any one > have an accurate length for that bush? > Its either 1.000 to 1.160 or someplace in-between. > thanks > Frank Fisher > > > > **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your > travel > deal here. > (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Sep 1 17:55:49 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 19:55:49 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Glen head count Message-ID: Come as your are....! It's about Triumphs! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 1 19:00:07 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 18:00:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 oilite bush In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080902010007.TMLN9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Any one know what material the oilite bush is made from? Oilite is the (brand) name of the material. Another name is SAE 841 bronze. > so does any one have an accurate length for that bush? > Its either 1.000 to 1.160 or someplace in-between. Sorry, don't have the exact length offhand. But it's shorter than the cavity (so the bush floats fore/aft to some extent) and 1" sounds right. Since they're only $5 @ TRF, I've never bothered looking for a substitute. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 1 19:03:10 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 21:03:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires Message-ID: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in the local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using nitrogen. I wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by the end of the installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, use nitrogen and notice a difference. I know that racers use it to maintain a constant air pressure regardless of heat but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ms6453 at optonline.net Mon Sep 1 19:06:36 2008 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 21:06:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Low Rev Miss In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48BC919C.8080807@optonline.net> Darrell, From your description you may have a rotor phasing issue. Listen carefully to the distributor cap at idle. Do you hear a popping inside. Is your stumble, miss usually take place right off idle under light or more aggressive acceleration? Does it always seem to happen under 1,500 rpm's. These are the symptoms generally of incorrect rotor phasing. Basically this means your rotor is probably slightly short of firing the proper terminal & also arcing to the terminal behind it. Usually the rotor is retarded, the points have opened, the rotor has not fully reached the terminal & the spark jumps from the back of the rotor contact. Take an old cap & drill a hole through the #1 terminal. With the cap off use a test light to find the exact point the #1 cylinder is firing. Put the cap on & take note of the rotor position. It should be just contacting the cap #1 contact point. If it is before the terminal the rotor is out of phase & has to be advanced. This can be done a few different ways. If this is the case let me know & I'll run through what I did for a fix. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 1 19:13:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 18:13:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080902011335.RJBT27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it? Sure, for the company selling you the nitrogen. And the lighter weight in your wallet will no doubt reduce fuel consumption. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 1 19:23:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 18:23:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] loss of power In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080902012338.RNDF27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Symptom: I am going down the > road and roll into full throttle. the car has a loss of > power. Not a miss fire; not a bucking from a cylinder not > firing. More like your car would do on a cold morning when > the choke slips off and it sound like the cylinders are dead. Unfortunately could be a lot of things. Full throttle puts maximum stress on both fuel and ignition systems, so it's not unusual for marginal problems to only show up there. Personally, I would start by temporarily installing a fuel pressure gauge, teed in right at the front carb (or better yet between carbs if you can) and brought out from under the hood, to prop under a wiper where you can see it while driving. Most automotive vacuum test gauges will also read fuel pressure, eg http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93547 If the pressure drops below 1 psi when the problem is happening; you've got a fuel delivery problem. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 1 19:31:21 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 18:31:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809011831k5b6725ddkedb180a72f6ebd6c@mail.gmail.com> If you buy tires at Costco they fill them with Nitrogen. The difference is not really noticeable I think. From don at napanet.net Mon Sep 1 19:33:17 2008 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 17:33:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20080901172757.02ee38d8@pop.napanet.net> I wonder also. Especially on cars that are not driven that much. I'm told that tires rot and can look perfect but be dangerous. I bought a 18k mile 1980 TR8 about seven years ago. It had the original tyres on it which looked great. When I got the car home and sorted, as I was driving it, bubbles formed on two of the tires, so I replaced the whole set. Anyway, I wonder it the deterioration could have been slowed or prevented if they were not oxidizing, but instead had nitrogen instead of air in them. Don Scott '91 Miata BRG '62 MGA Mk II No Triumph at present At 05:03 PM 09/01/2008, Bob Danielson wrote: >I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now >offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in the >local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using nitrogen. I >wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by the end of the >installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, use nitrogen and >notice a difference. I know that racers use it to maintain a constant air >pressure regardless of heat but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it? > >Bob Danielson >1975 TR6 CF38503U >Running w/ Throttle Body Injection >Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD >http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1645 - Release Date: 09/01/2008 7:19 AM From jmitch at snet.net Mon Sep 1 19:47:06 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 21:47:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <48BC9B1A.9020605@snet.net> Hmmm, I wonder if they take off for nitrogen at concourse events? John Bob Danielson wrote: > I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now > offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in the > local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using nitrogen. I > wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by the end of the > installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, use nitrogen and > notice a difference. I know that racers use it to maintain a constant air > pressure regardless of heat but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Sep 1 20:04:59 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 22:04:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20080901172757.02ee38d8@pop.napanet.net> References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <48BC670B.29725.D21F8BB@localhost> On 1 Sep 2008 at 17:33, don wrote: > Anyway, I wonder it the deterioration could have been slowed or > prevented if they were not oxidizing, but instead had nitrogen > instead of air in them. Several thoughts come to mind. 1. Even with notrogen in the inside the tires would still be exposed to air on the outside. 2. The PO neede to have used nitrogen only for the 22% that wasn't nitrogen already. 3. If the PO had rotated the air like he was supposed to the tires might have lasted longer. And don't even think of using NOS tire air. It ages even just sitting in the stockroom. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Sep 1 20:24:26 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 22:24:26 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 oilite bush Message-ID: In a message dated 9/1/2008 6:05:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Any one know what material the oilite bush is made from? Oilite is the (brand) name of the material. Another name is SAE 841 bronze. > so does any one have an accurate length for that bush? > Its either 1.000 to 1.160 or someplace in-between. Sorry, don't have the exact length offhand. But it's shorter than the cavity (so the bush floats fore/aft to some extent) and 1" sounds right. Since they're only $5 @ TRF, I've never bothered looking for a substitute. Randall Seems like Herman van demn Akker mentioned to me one time that they seem to vary in length depending on year. Mike Moore **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 1 20:28:09 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 19:28:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20080901172757.02ee38d8@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <20080902022809.HHNJ2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Anyway, I wonder it the deterioration could have been > slowed or prevented if they were not oxidizing, but instead > had nitrogen instead of air in them. Thing is, if you believe the hype, the oxygen leaks out quickly anyway. So within just a few months, the "air" inside the tires will be purer nitrogen than those tire filling things generate anyway. And oxygen would still penetrate to where the belts are. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 1 20:32:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 19:32:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 oilite bush In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080902023254.PYAK13299.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Seems like Herman van demn Akker mentioned to me one time > that they seem to vary in length depending on year. That's true, they changed during the TR6 run. But TR2 through early TR6 all take the same bush, even though the spigot on the input shaft got a little shorter when the 4-synchro box was introduced. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 1 20:36:32 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 22:36:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <48BC9B1A.9020605@snet.net> References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> <48BC9B1A.9020605@snet.net> Message-ID: <002101c90ca4$b885b4f0$210110ac@bobspc> John..... Check with your wife....she'll know! Are you going to CTR on the 7th? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: John Mitchell [mailto:jmitch at snet.net] Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 9:47 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack List' Subject: Re: [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires Hmmm, I wonder if they take off for nitrogen at concourse events? John Bob Danielson wrote: > I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now > offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in > the local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using > nitrogen. I wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by > the end of the installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, > use nitrogen and notice a difference. I know that racers use it to > maintain a constant air pressure regardless of heat but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net > > No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1645 - Release Date: 9/1/2008 7:19 AM From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon Sep 1 20:44:30 2008 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 22:44:30 EDT Subject: [TR] Listers at Watkins Glen Message-ID: Beverly and George Haynes from Rochester will be there - along with 15 other members of our new VTR Chapter - in the Tour de Marque and at the track. We're really looking forward to this! ************** It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 2 00:22:41 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 00:22:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr-3 lever shocks In-Reply-To: <495579.53684.qm@web59614.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <495579.53684.qm@web59614.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, Fluid of choice will depend on what you want as far as stiffness for your shocks. I think previous discussions on this subject centered on 20 or 30 weight oils for most applications. When I cleaned mine out, oil flowed pretty freely with the strokes of the lever. Are you sure you are moving the lever through its full range? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 4:07 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr-3 lever shocks I'm renewing the lever shocks on my tr-3 project. I plan on simply draining the oil and putting in fresh. I took off the upper lid and simply emptied it. There's also a large nut on the side near the bottom which I took off, removing the valve and spring and drained. pumping to drain. While I had the shock in the vise and everything open I also poured some cleaner in the top......(hoping to wash out any gunk).......but upon pumping it never pumped through or came out the bottom. Are these separate chambers? and upon renewing do I fill each chamber separately? Also what fluid? I've heard various choices of oils. thanks! gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1645 - Release Date: 9/1/2008 7:19 AM From mathews at uga.edu Tue Sep 2 05:52:04 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 07:52:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] What to Keep Off the soon to be recycled TR3 Message-ID: <20080902115205.AB27818764C@autox.team.net> List, I've got most everything off the 57 TR3 that I think need to be retained. Not necessarily fo my use but maybe something down the road someone needs. Part of what is guiding me is the Moss catalog and the parts they list as NA. There are some items such as the exhaust header and the read drums that really look ok, especially the inside of the drums where there is still a lot of shiny metal and that after sitting outside for 15 tears or so. The drivers side front end had major damage that really put several kinks into the frame so I'd not trust any suspension parts on that side. The passenger side (US car) front suspension seems ok. according to the catalog, there are several of the front end components that are NA. Is that really correct and does the list recommend dismantling the front end and saving these parts for use by me or someone in the future? I'm basically a pack rat, but I'm trying to reduce the amount of "stuff" I keep. I do intend to keep a catalog of what I've got referenced by Moss part number. So let me know as my wife would like for me to get the upside down carcass out of the back yard! Doug From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 2 06:39:14 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 08:39:14 EDT Subject: [TR] loss of power Message-ID: In a message dated 9/1/2008 4:48:23 PM Central Daylight Time, peterara at msn.com writes: > My 1971 TR6 has a problem. Symptom: I am going down the road and roll > into > full throttle. the car has a loss of power. Not a miss fire; not a bucking > from a cylinder not firing. More like your car would do on a cold morning > when > the choke slips off and it sound like the cylinders are dead. But it > happens > when up to temperature no choke. Can happen in any gear at any speed. > Pulling > the choke makes no difference. I've heard of this resulting from a marginal rotor in the distributor. It's easy enough to test, swap in another rotor and go for a drive. As Randall says, full throttle puts maximum stress on the ignition system. Higher pressures in the cylinders require higher voltages at the spark plug. Your rotor may be withstanding normal spark gap voltage but as the voltage goes up the rotor breaks down. Cheers Dave From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Sep 2 06:39:43 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 08:39:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr-3 lever shocks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Personally, I use Motorcycle fork since they too are a hydraulic type of shock. I don't remember though what the weight of the oil was. Mark Subject: [TR] tr-3 lever shocks I'm renewing the lever shocks on my tr-3 project. ...Also what fluid? I've heard various choices of oils. thanks! gary n. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 2 06:45:06 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 08:45:06 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires Message-ID: In a message dated 9/1/2008 8:50:58 PM Central Daylight Time, jmitch at snet.net writes: > Hmmm, I wonder if they take off for nitrogen at concourse events? John > > Yes, but only 21%. Dave From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Sep 2 06:47:06 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 08:47:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Personally I can't see the point to it. Air is already approx 78% nitrogen (and 21% oxygen) and the nitrogen molecule is just a bit bigger than an oxygen molecule. So, to me, putting pure nitrogen into a tire , as opposed to plain old air, will have no affect on how fast a tire looses air pressure. Mark Message: 14 Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 21:03:10 -0400 From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires To: , "'6pack List'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac at bobspc> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in the local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using nitrogen. I wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by the end of the installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, use nitrogen and notice a difference. I know that racers use it to maintain a constant air pressure regardless of heat but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it? Bob Danielson From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 2 06:53:28 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 08:53:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/2008 7:48:52 AM Central Daylight Time, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com writes: > and the nitrogen molecule is just a bit bigger than an > oxygen molecule. Why do you say that? The molecular weight of nitrogen is 14 whereas oxygen is 16. Since oxygen has a larger nuculas (the root word for "nukular") and more electrons it sounds logical that nitrogen is actually larger. Besides don't they both follow the ideal gas law? Dave From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Sep 2 06:59:12 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 08:59:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/2008 5:49:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com writes: Personally I can't see the point to it. Air is already approx 78% nitrogen (and 21% oxygen) and the nitrogen molecule is just a bit bigger than an oxygen molecule. So, to me, putting pure nitrogen into a tire , as opposed to plain old air, will have no affect on how fast a tire looses air pressure. Mark I believe there is a huge business in trying to find gimmicks for garages, tire shops etc. to increase revenue. My former mechanic had magazines for mechanics which advertised all sorts of things to improve revenue. He no longer could just change my tranny fluid and filter for $15; it now had to be connected to a multi-thousand dollar machine to be flushed for $120. He had a machine for everything, and all those things which should have reduced his labor always made my cost more expensive. He could no longer diagnose anything without putting it on the computer ($75), or align a car without going on another computer ($135). I imagine he will be selling Nitorgen soonif he hasn't already. Back in the 60's when I was involved with Naval Aviation a bit, I recall all the aircraft tires were nitrogen filled. The reason as I recall had to do with the extreme heat and the fact that fuel vapor could be in the compressed air, thus causing tire fires etc. Mike Moore 59 TR3A **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Tue Sep 2 07:18:46 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 09:18:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I did say that nitrogen is bigger than oxygen. Maybe I should have wrote the diameter of the oxygen molecule is just a bit smaller than the nitrogen's (about 6% smaller) and when it comes to permeating through the tire, the rate for nitrogen and oxygen will be about the same. Mark Subject: Re: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires To: triumphs at autox.team.net In a message dated 9/2/2008 7:48:52 AM Central Daylight Time, mark.jones at exxonmobil.com writes: > and the nitrogen molecule is just a bit bigger than an oxygen molecule. Why do you say that? The molecular weight of nitrogen is 14 whereas oxygen is 16. Since oxygen has a larger nuculas (the root word for "nukular") and more electrons it sounds logical that nitrogen is actually larger. Dave From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue Sep 2 07:36:20 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 09:36:20 EDT Subject: [TR] Uncle Jack's Miata Seat Conversion Kit at The Glen Message-ID: George and all. Great!!! We will have the right folks at The Glen to discuss Uncle Jack's Stuff. Tony Drews is bronging some seat conversions and some HD Spindles. Sean Alexander, who does much of our process engineering, (sheet metal) will be there. Remember the Triumph Party in the Classic Motorsports Olde English Pub in the Triumph Paddock Saturday night. Sponsored by Classic Motorsports and Moss Motors, this is the pace to be. Joe A Joe > One of those first production run seat tracks will be installed in the next > 3 days and, God willing, be up at the Glen with my newly recovered Miata > seats for those who want to sample the final product. > > George Church > 70 TR6 "striking" blue with either new tan or dynamat interior, depending on > how the next 3 days go. Boy, you can't trust a paint chip! > > -----Original Message----- > From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Sep 2 07:43:46 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 09:43:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr-3 lever shocks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: For fluif, I'd suggest using Shock Absorber Fluid from a supplier such as http://www.lbcarco.com, part 220-304 for ~$12 (and ~$14 from Moss). One bottle is more than enough for both shocks. Some folks have used shock fluid intended for a motorcycle front fork, but I was uncertain of matching the correct oil weight to the mechanism. As to the missing cleaner, it could be the volume of cleaner you have put in is insufficient to prime the 'pumping' action? I'd fill them with motor oil to ensure the mechanism is working and to flush out the gunk and then clean them again, and fill with the shock oil. Mine were half full of a treacle-like black sludge, but once cleaned up, were pristine, internally. Make sure when reinstalling the shocks that you have the two bolts that secure each shock as tight as they should be. I had an occasional clunk in the rear that I *eventually* traced to my rear shocks. The bolts were far from loose, but tightening them correctly resolved my clunk. Brian From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Sep 2 07:44:14 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 09:44:14 EDT Subject: [TR] loss of power Message-ID: Peter, Intermittent problems are the worst to solve but it sounds like you've covered the basics for fuel delivery which is a good start. Unless you've actually checked the carb diaphragms for cracks or splits I wouldn't assume that they're okay. I also like the idea of a "lagging rotor" which someone else mentioned. There should be no play when you turn the rotor by hand. Worn rotors (on the distrib shaft) can cause a symptom like you've got because the rotor is not responding to a requested increase from the throttle when you go to full throttle. I think the rotor may be in-time during partial throttle (cruising) but when you go to full throttle and the distributor wants to advance the spark, the rotor can't keep up with the distrib shaft speed so it lags behind and tends to keep the timing retarded just when you need advanced timing to match the increased fuel delivery for more power. Swap the rotor for a good one but if you have a timing light, it would be interesting to observe what the timing does when you quickly increase throttle at idle. If your distrib is working okay and the rotor is okay, the timing should increase when you blip the throttle. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 9/1/2008 5:48:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, peterara at msn.com writes: The thing is it heals! and is intermittent! **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 2 08:18:55 2008 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 07:18:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <822263.25661.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Tue, 9/2/08, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > mark.jones at exxonmobil.com writes: > > and the nitrogen molecule is just a bit bigger than an > > oxygen molecule. > > Why do you say that? The molecular weight of nitrogen is > 14 whereas oxygen > is 16. Since oxygen has a larger nuculas (the root word > for "nukular") and > more electrons it sounds logical that nitrogen is actually > larger. It is actually smaller. The attraction of more electrons toward the nucleus make the nitrogen atom smaller than the oxygen atom. > > Besides don't they both follow the ideal gas law? At these conditions, yes. The only difference I can see that has not been mentioned so far is that the Nitrogen is DRY. Water vapor certainly does not follow the gas laws at these conditions and the water vapor may condense at ordinary temperatures and vaporise at higher ones, thus changing the pressure slightly. It seems to me that dry air would be just as good as dry Nitrogen. > > Dave John Young From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Sep 2 08:45:22 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 10:45:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Glen head count In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Sun, 31 Aug 2008, marty sukey wrote: > Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can keep > an eye open hoping to spot one another. > > Evelyn and Marty Sukey will be there, who else? I'm there all weekend. I should have both TR6's too. All things considered, that's something of a miracle, but we won't go there. It'll just be fun to hand with Triumph people and check out some race cars at full chat. I'll be at/near the FOT bunch in the paddock. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Sep 2 10:37:20 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 12:37:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Uncle Jack's Miata Seat Conversion Kit at The Glen In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200809021237.21066.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 02 September 2008 09:36 am, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote: > George and all. > > Great!!! We will have the right folks at The Glen to discuss Uncle Jack's > Stuff. Tony Drews is bronging some seat conversions and some HD Spindles. > > Sean Alexander, who does much of our process engineering, (sheet metal) > will be there. > > Remember the Triumph Party in the Classic Motorsports Olde English Pub in > the Triumph Paddock Saturday night. Sponsored by Classic Motorsports and > Moss Motors, this is the pace to be. > > Joe A > > Joe Joe, WHen does the party start on Saturday? Bob From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 2 11:39:14 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 17:39:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires Message-ID: <090220081739.570.48BD7A420000A5250000023A22120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > The only difference I can see that has not been mentioned so far is that the > Nitrogen is DRY. Bingo. > Water vapor certainly does not follow the gas laws at these > conditions and the water vapor may condense at ordinary temperatures and > vaporise at higher ones, thus changing the pressure slightly. Yes. > It seems to me > that dry air would be just as good as dry Nitrogen. Yes. Nitrogen is marketed in dry form, making it convenient to buy. From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue Sep 2 11:50:43 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 17:50:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] Retro Sound radio - one user's view Message-ID: <090220081750.602.48BD7CF30005743A0000025A2213575333CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> I bought the RetroSound radio from Moss a few weeks ago: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=66239&SortOrder=1 Here's my take on it, in case anyone else was thinking of adding this to their car's setup. Installation is straight forward. The smaller-than-usual main unit is easier to fit in the confined space of my TR4 than a regular radio. The unit is quite powerful, such that adequate listening volume is achieved without distortion. The radio works well in either FM or AM. I have installed the resistor spark plugs from Champion. I have taken no precaution with noise reduction on the power feed, and have no problem with noise. I had noticeable noise with the 1980s radio this unit replaces. I can now enjoy the radio, with the top down, at 60 mph (that's the fastest I've gone with it). Above that speed, I can't imagine it being too brilliant. The front panel AUX input for ipod or similar works well, though the volume is much lower than when using the radio - at least on my ipod with its volume pretty much maxed out. There is enough capacity in the unit's amp to compensate, but when you switch back to the radio, it'll be twice as loud as you want. Its better than the FM transmitter devices I have used, though. The unusual USB connection (also front panel) provides the opportunity to connect a memory stick with music stored for playback ithrough the unit. I have not yet found a format that works reliably. iTunes' format just seems to stall on me two or three songs in, though I'll experiment with other formats. It would be good to get this working so I'd not have to worry about walking away from the car with a $$$ ipod left behind absentmindedly. The radio has presets for Classic, Rock etc, as well as the usual Bass, Treble, l/r and fade controls. I find myself keeping the manual on hand to understand all these controls and how to manage each of the three inputs. I haven't found it intuitive. A short press of a control gets you into one menu, and a longer press takes you frustratingly elsewhere, as this old dog has found.... I have the radio on an 'always live' connection. However, after installing the radio, I learn that off isn't really off, and the clock is always displayed when the unit is not 'on'. I may change to a switched live, and forget the clock. Overall, I'm pleased with it, and can now get the full pleasure of the speakers setup I'd designed some months ago: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/GreatAudioTR4.pdf Cheers, Brian Jones 1963 TR4 CT 14455-L From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 2 11:59:53 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 13:59:53 EDT Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/2008 9:19:21 AM Central Daylight Time, jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com writes: > >Why do you say that? The molecular weight of nitrogen is > >14 whereas oxygen > >is 16. Since oxygen has a larger nuculas (the root word > >for "nukular") and > >more electrons it sounds logical that nitrogen is actually > >larger. My typo. What I meant to say is Oxygen is actually bigger. Based on molecular weight and electron count. > > It is actually smaller. The attraction of more electrons toward the nucleus > make the nitrogen atom smaller than the oxygen atom. Now that makes sense. But I guess absorption and permeation have little to do with the physical size of something approaching the scale quantum mechanics. > > > >Besides don't they both follow the ideal gas law? > > At these conditions, yes. > The only difference I can see that has not been mentioned so far is that the > Nitrogen is DRY. Water vapor certainly does not follow the gas laws at these > conditions and the water vapor may condense at ordinary temperatures and > vaporise at higher ones, thus changing the pressure slightly. It seems to me > that dry air would be just as good as dry Nitrogen. I agree. Getting your tires aired up on a hot, humid summer Satruday afternoon (a busy time for the local tire shop) may not be as good an idea than doing it first thing in the morning. Other advantages to using nitrogen are that you can toss a cylinder of nitrogen in the truck and have a source of compressed air where there is no compressor handy. But these are atypical circumstances. If a garage wants to fill my tires with nitrogen, that's fine. If they want me to pay extra... Dave From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Sep 2 12:00:52 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:00:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] loss of power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Something similar happened to Rosey (TR6), ran fine until full throttle was required, then would become "dead", and eventually stop ... after a few minutes she would start, but then repeat the procedure. Problem was the rubber fuel line had become "pinched", allowing some fuel to flow, but not sufficient quantities to maintain highway speeds. >In a message dated 9/1/2008 4:48:23 PM Central Daylight Time, >peterara at msn.com writes: >> My 1971 TR6 has a problem. Symptom: I am going down the road and roll >> into >> full throttle. the car has a loss of power. Not a miss fire; not a bucking >> from a cylinder not firing. More like your car would do on a cold morning >> when >> the choke slips off and it sound like the cylinders are dead. But it >> happens >> when up to temperature no choke. Can happen in any gear at any speed. >> Pulling >> the choke makes no difference. > >I've heard of this resulting from a marginal rotor in the distributor. It's >easy enough to test, swap in another rotor and go for a drive. > >As Randall says, full throttle puts maximum stress on the ignition system. >Higher pressures in the cylinders require higher voltages at the spark plug. >Your rotor may be withstanding normal spark gap voltage but as the >voltage goes >up the rotor breaks down. > >Cheers -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 2 12:06:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:06:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <090220081739.570.48BD7A420000A5250000023A22120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <090220081739.570.48BD7A420000A5250000023A22120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <645543F993134388900B8572E228A1BC@jdnet.deere.com> > Yes. Nitrogen is marketed in dry form, making it convenient to buy. However, what the tire places use is not packaged dry nitrogen, but whatever their "nitrogen generator" puts out. I couldn't find a spec for how much water these things remove; but I see on Ingersoll-Rand's website that the output is only 95% pure nitrogen. http://air.ingersollrand.com/IS/modelComp.aspx/item/21147 If it only removes 75% of the oxygen impurities in the input, perhaps it only removes 75% of the water as well? Also from IR's site: "Now, Ingersoll Rand offers you a choice. You can use nitrogen, not ambient air, to fill tires with the new Nitrogen Tire Inflation System." "Creating a new source of revenue for your business." Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 2 12:18:01 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:18:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <822263.25661.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <822263.25661.qm@web81403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8D1502E827024BA7BE2AB9A076670FAB@jdnet.deere.com> > Water vapor certainly does not follow the gas laws at > these conditions and the water vapor may condense at ordinary temperatures Which begs the question : just how wet is 'normal' tire store air? The really wet air I've seen is always from those cheap "instant on" pumps at gas stations, that struggle to hit 35 psi. Every tire store I've been to has a big tank that gets pumped up to 175 psi or so, generally (tho not always) allowed to cool mostly to room temperature, then regulated down and run through a dryer before going into your tire. Not a terribly effective drying system, but it takes out a lot of water. Enough that it's not going to condense inside the tire unless the tire gets really cold. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 2 12:23:23 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:23:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] What to Keep Off the soon to be recycled TR3 In-Reply-To: <20080902115205.AB27818764C@autox.team.net> References: <20080902115205.AB27818764C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: > Is that really correct and does the list recommend dismantling > the front end and saving these parts for use by me or someone in the > future? Put it this way, Doug, if you don't want them, I do! Those parts really are NLA; and sometimes even the available parts are worse than originals. Randall From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 2 17:45:47 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 19:45:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen Room available Message-ID: <006501c90d56$066ff980$6501a8c0@userb38463fba5> Lists, I just cancelled my room at the Hampton Inn Corning for Thursday 9-5 thru Sunday 9-8. So there is a room available for the asking. I do not know if they have a waiting list and if the room is automatically taken. I will be at the Glen I just do not need this room as I have made other plans. Phone for the Hampton is 607-936-3344. Stop by and visit with us at the WPTA Hospitality Tent in the Triumph Paddock. Jerry Van Vlack From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Sep 2 17:56:38 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 19:56:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Axle Grease - How Much to Use? Message-ID: <000301c90d57$8c09ad10$210110ac@bobspc> Folks.....when reassembling the two halves of a TR6 axle, how much grease do you pack in there? Do you just coat the splines or do you pack it in so that a bunch squishes out when you press the two halves together? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Sep 2 18:09:27 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 20:09:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] What to Keep Off the soon to be recycled TR3 In-Reply-To: <20080902115205.AB27818764C@autox.team.net> References: <20080902115205.AB27818764C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <200809022009.27513.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Doug, Any useable part should be saved as you never know what will happen down the road. Also, a list member may need the part in a pinch. I have a bunch of "spares" from every part of a TR3 and some less for the TR4. Body, suspension, spare transmissions, rear ends, springs you name it. I have supplied some spares to list members in the past and I have noticed other members doing the same. Once I sent a box of TR3 stuff to a guy in South Africa as he had no easy access to our parts suppliers. If the part is in good shape, just needs some cleaning and a spot of paint, I would find a place to save it for the future. I use the attic of my garage for most of my archive. All parts that have been cleaned, painted etc. are stored in the cellar. Now that I have acquired a TR6, I wonder where the parts from that car will be stored during the restoration? Bob From jat1127 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 2 18:14:23 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 20:14:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 6 loss of power Message-ID: Listers, Someone has been writing about loss of power on a TR6. When the car is running poorly I would separate the throttle linkage between the two carbs. Then with the motor warm rev the motor with each carb and see if the issue is with just one. The car may have a blocked float vent on one carb. When you open the throttle you get one carb suppling a proper mixture and the other mostly or only air. Soooo mush air that it will run but be flat. Seems to me that there are two vents. One the same size as the fuel inlet and the other a "tiny" hole near the throttle plate but it has been a long time and I have seen this exact issue. John John Taylor Greenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with Windows.. From wquincy at cox.net Tue Sep 2 18:24:10 2008 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 19:24:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gear Shift Knob/Overdrive switch Message-ID: Greetings listers, I'm thinking about moving my overdrive switch to the gear shift knob. Seems like a good Idea to me. What has the list done is this regard. There's a Jags shift knob with a button on top, Im sure the TPI is all wrong but it may be useable? Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 2 18:48:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 17:48:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 6 loss of power In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <688034342A694F5D86618BB8FA0B5DFF@jdnet.deere.com> > Seems to me that there are two vents. One the same size as the fuel inlet The later (approx 73 onwards) carbs had two vents, but only one was supposed to operate at a time. The "idle" vent came out the side and was plumbed to the carbon canister/anti-runon valve. The "non-idle" vent came through the face of the carb, as on the earlier smog carbs. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 2 18:54:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 17:54:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gear Shift Knob/Overdrive switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0800F1AA90874E8BBD5170351D1F9730@jdnet.deere.com> > I'm thinking about moving my overdrive switch to the gear shift knob. > Seems like a good Idea to me. What has the list done is this regard. This is a minority opinion, Bill, but my Stag has the switch in the shift knob as original. For a TR3 with an A-type, IMO it's better in the factory location, on the dash where you can hit it without taking your hand off the wheel. To me, one of the major advantages of the A-type is that you can shift it with both hands on the wheel (making it handy when, for example, driving on twisty mountain roads at speeds well in excess of prudent). Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Sep 2 18:54:19 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 20:54:19 EDT Subject: [TR] Gear Shift Knob/Overdrive switch Message-ID: In a message dated 9/2/2008 5:47:12 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, wquincy at cox.net writes: Greetings listers, I'm thinking about moving my overdrive switch to the gear shift knob. Seems like a good Idea to me. What has the list done is this regard. There's a Jags shift knob with a button on top, Im sure the TPI is all wrong but it may be useable? Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L _______________________________________________ Bill, Mine is that way and I really like it. The TR books I have read have said that is the original planned location (reason the early gearshift handlles are hollow). I tend to drive with my hand on the lever anyway, so its lightning fast in the mountains where I am to flick it from 2nd OD to 2nd gear. Otherson thislisthave said they can shift faster with the original switch location on the dash, although I do see the rally cars had gearshift mounted switches. I bought a new Stag gearshift knob complete w/switch and a lever from one of the numerous Stag parts suppliers in the UK. It fits perfectly. My wife was bothered by the bend in the Stag lever and thought it didn't look original, so I cut it and welded it onto an old TR3 lever I had. Best, Mike Moore **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here. (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 2 18:56:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 17:56:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Axle Grease - How Much to Use? In-Reply-To: <000301c90d57$8c09ad10$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000301c90d57$8c09ad10$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <051D24B6AAA3461AA2D628B00FFEEDDC@jdnet.deere.com> > Folks.....when reassembling the two halves of a TR6 axle, how much grease > do > you pack in there? Do you just coat the splines or do you pack it in so > that > a bunch squishes out when you press the two halves together? I just coated the splines liberally, making sure it was worked into the corners, and let it go at that. Having all that grease squeezed out just makes a mess, IMO. On a Stag, but they're basically identical. Randall From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Sep 2 19:11:11 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 21:11:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gear Shift Knob/Overdrive switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3CC51A5E75024129956AD2E0A493FCE9@DCH6RFC1> I have one on my TR3. Located on the side at the 10 O'clock position for thumb or forefinger. Got it from Racetorations (www.racetorations.co.uk) in the UK. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of William C. Quincy Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 8:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Gear Shift Knob/Overdrive switch Greetings listers, I'm thinking about moving my overdrive switch to the gear shift knob. Seems like a good Idea to me. What has the list done is this regard. There's a Jags shift knob with a button on top, Im sure the TPI is all wrong but it may be useable? Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Sep 2 20:14:56 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 19:14:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] lever shock oil fill Message-ID: <88720.93153.qm@web59608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I've taken the top off as well as taken out the drain plug (with valve) on the bottom and drained the shock. When I re-filled the shock from the top and pumped........ it did not pump oil through the bottom plug hole. I know some of you mentioned that it should. Just wanted to re-check to see if others have had any experience like mine. Maybe I need to fill both seperately and then pump? thanks in advance gary n. From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Tue Sep 2 21:34:10 2008 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 23:34:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Glen head count In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com> I'll be there in the Stag all weekend, arrive Thursday. Looking forward to the fun, I've never been to The Glen. Free poster for VTR members: http://www.vtr.org/eCardImages/WatkinsGlenPoster.jpg Cheers, Blake Discher From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Sep 2 22:02:48 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 22:02:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Glen head count In-Reply-To: <0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com> References: <0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <48BE0C68.80805@tscusa.org> Blake J. Discher wrote: > I'll be there in the Stag all weekend, arrive Thursday. > Looking forward to the fun, I've never been to The Glen. > > Free poster for VTR members: > http://www.vtr.org/eCardImages/WatkinsGlenPoster.jpg > > Cheers, > Blake Discher > _______________________________________________ > Susan and I will be there, arriving Wednesday, then at the various places Thursday through Sunday. Have not absorbed the schedules yet, I'll do that on the plane. I may be looking for a few seats for one or two of the winery drives on Friday. I'll take one of those posters Blake! Ought to be a great scene! -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA 2009 Charity Drive North American Coordinator Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From rx74evr at mchsi.com Wed Sep 3 10:10:14 2008 From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 11:10:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] FREE TR6 trailer hitch Message-ID: <000f01c90ddf$8cf6c360$6500a8c0@butterb3msfn9p> Hi gang I just bought a 76 TR6 and it came with a custom fabricated trailer hitch on the rear, i am having the car painted so i am taking the hitch off, if anyone would like it for free, it is yours for the taking. Located in Northern IL near Rockford. Thanks Paul From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Wed Sep 3 11:35:16 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 10:35:16 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [TR] LAST CALL - BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET - Sept. 6 & 7, 2008 Message-ID: <7902283.1220463317152.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> WEBSITE: www.allcarcentral.com/thebritishcarnetwork.html THE BRISBANE MARINA BRITISH CAR MEET * 2008 The Weekend Of Saturday & Sunday * Sept. 6th & 7th Join your British car friends for a smashing day at the Brisbane Marina at Sierra Point. Over 300 quirky, classic, and lovable British cars will once again gather in the Bay Area for our 31st Annual British Car Meet. Don't have a show car? Don't worry! Daily drivers, vintage racers, street rods and works-in-progress are as welcome as Concours quality show cars. This is essentially the old Palo Alto British Meet in a new location. We are also expecting another great display of automotive oddities provided by the Arcane Auto Society. Spectators attend and park for free. SUNDAY SHOW - BRISBANE MARINA - SEPTEMBER 7th Cars will be placed at 9:00AM and the fun goes on all day. The food will be handled by the Brisbane Lions Club and the Sierra Point Yacht Club will open their doors on Sunday for a reasonable, sit-down breakfast Herb Gibson's Jazz Orchestra will be back again, set up just outside the Yacht Club. There is no preregistration. There will be marque awards in over 15 classes and all entrants will receive a commemorative gift. The registration fee is $25 per car at the gate. SATURDAY TOUR - SEPTEMBER 6th The British Car Meet TOUR TO THE SEA starts at the Brisbane Marina boathouse (the same place as the Sunday Car Show) and winds through the hills to the sea. Itbs no-cost option for people who like to drive their cars as well as show them. We will be sending cars off between 9:00AM and 10:30AM. A detailed map will be provided. The tour ends at Cameron's Pub in Half Moon Bay where we will be kicking tyres and telling tall tales in the car park well into the afternoon. Call for information: 310-392-6605 e-mail: DIRECTIONS: The Brisbane Marina is lacated just east of the Bayshore Freeway (101) between San Francisco and the SF Airport/Highway 380. Just take the Brisbane/Sierra Point Exit and follow the signs to the Marina. Trailer parking will be available on-site. LODGING ALTERNATIVES: BEST DEAL! Right at the Brisbane Marina. The Radisson, very upscale, business type hotel with gourmet restaurant. We have special British Car Meet rate of $109 per night, Friday, Saturday or Sunday. Address, 5000 Sierra Point Parkway, Brisbane, phone 415-467-4400. Ask for the British Car Meet rates. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 3 18:05:45 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (yellowtr at adelphia.net) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 17:05:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] windshield Message-ID: <17914092.1220486745869.JavaMail.root@web12.mail.adelphia.net> Hello, Someone on the list asked for a Triumph windshield frame. I was about to email photos but my old computer bit the dust. All is lost for now until I can check it out. So who ever it was, could you resend you earlier email so I can send you the pics? Thanks, Bob From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Sep 3 18:22:52 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2008 00:22:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr-3 lever shocks Message-ID: <090420080022.24533.48BF2A5C0002C04300005FD522155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Personally, I use Motorcycle fork since they too are a hydraulic type of > shock. I don't remember though what the weight of the oil was. > > Mark > > Subject: [TR] tr-3 lever shocks > > I'm renewing the lever shocks on my tr-3 project. ...Also what fluid? > I've heard various choices of oils. I agree. Just go to your local cycle shop and ask for Harley Davidson Hydraulic Fork Oil Type "B." I used it and have been driving for three years. ISR it's 20 weight. Shocks are much nicer on the '3 than on the old Datsun 2000 Roadster. Hmmm...Was thinking today that the Triumph is considerably better built than the Datsun Roadsters. Then again, I didn't do a ground up on the Datsun. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From auprichard at comcast.net Wed Sep 3 19:19:19 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 21:19:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] windshield In-Reply-To: <17914092.1220486745869.JavaMail.root@web12.mail.adelphia.net> References: <17914092.1220486745869.JavaMail.root@web12.mail.adelphia.net> Message-ID: <3754F72849314BB69F3F99659C5775F2@DCH6RFC1> It was Larry Schwarz. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of yellowtr at adelphia.net Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 8:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] windshield Hello, Someone on the list asked for a Triumph windshield frame. I was about to email photos but my old computer bit the dust. All is lost for now until I can check it out. So who ever it was, could you resend you earlier email so I can send you the pics? Thanks, Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Sep 4 12:58:12 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 14:58:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tor-Kit-Out In-Reply-To: <090420080022.24533.48BF2A5C0002C04300005FD522155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <090420080022.24533.48BF2A5C0002C04300005FD522155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <871EDDB8CFF14CF597659D5AFCF18E6B@DCH6RFC1> List: After many years, I have finally found an "Easy-out" extractor system which works. It's called Tor-Kit-Out and came from an Australian company, Haben, which went belly-up in the 80s or 90s. If you want to see what it looks like, there is one advertised on eBAY (#350042129501). So, in an effort to make sure I was never without these babies, I ended up buying an original box from Australia with 10 new kits. Two for me, three for Christmas presents and I have 5 extra. If anyone on the list wants one, email me back and let me know. I don't want to make money on this, but it'll work out at around $15 a kit (originally sold at over $100). Andrew Uprichard From stonywoods840 at rochester.rr.com Thu Sep 4 14:37:55 2008 From: stonywoods840 at rochester.rr.com (Larry Rausch) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 16:37:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil Message-ID: <2998E64D01CE4F3290E83C38A9CD0901@larry> Hi: What is the correct gearbox oil to use. In"How to restore a Triumph" byRoger Williams He say to use ST90 gear oil. But in the TR3 Service instruction Manual it says to use SAE 30. Thanks Larry From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Sep 4 15:56:50 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2008 17:56:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil In-Reply-To: <2998E64D01CE4F3290E83C38A9CD0901@larry> Message-ID: <48C02162.3035.1BB1CFB3@localhost> On 4 Sep 2008 at 16:37, Larry Rausch wrote: > Hi: What is the correct gearbox oil to use. In"How to restore a Triumph" > byRoger Williams He say to use ST90 gear oil. But in the TR3 Service > instruction Manual it says to use SAE 30. Ah, the zombie thread - you can shoot it but it never dies! Been there, done that recently. At the suggestions of folks here I recently put Valvoline 20w50 racing oil into my Spitfire's OD gearbox. Been delighted with the result! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Sep 4 16:11:50 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 15:11:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] eBay Motors: Triumph TR3 TR4 TR4A Morgan engine rebuild kit (item 200251487661 end time Sep-12-08 12:34:26 PDT) Message-ID: Does anyone know this seller?? Good ... Bad ... none of the above ??? Thanks ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR4A-Morgan-engine-rebuild-kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10076QQihZ010QQitemZ200251487661QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Sep 4 16:35:36 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 18:35:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tor-Kit-Out In-Reply-To: <871EDDB8CFF14CF597659D5AFCF18E6B@DCH6RFC1> References: <090420080022.24533.48BF2A5C0002C04300005FD522155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <871EDDB8CFF14CF597659D5AFCF18E6B@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <8833DBE5DB3A4C879A7185B1F531DB71@DCH6RFC1> Wow - I didn't realize how many would respond. And the winners are: Jeff Scarbrough Tim Gaines Marty Clarke Bob Danielson Fred Thomas Sorry to all the others who inquired. Guys: send me your addresses and I'll ship them tomorrow. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 2:58 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tor-Kit-Out List: After many years, I have finally found an "Easy-out" extractor system which works. It's called Tor-Kit-Out and came from an Australian company, Haben, which went belly-up in the 80s or 90s. If you want to see what it looks like, there is one advertised on eBAY (#350042129501). So, in an effort to make sure I was never without these babies, I ended up buying an original box from Australia with 10 new kits. Two for me, three for Christmas presents and I have 5 extra. If anyone on the list wants one, email me back and let me know. I don't want to make money on this, but it'll work out at around $15 a kit (originally sold at over $100). Andrew Uprichard This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Sep 4 17:11:23 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 16:11:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil In-Reply-To: <48C02162.3035.1BB1CFB3@localhost> References: <2998E64D01CE4F3290E83C38A9CD0901@larry> <48C02162.3035.1BB1CFB3@localhost> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809041611w4f8cf565u67fa96264240ba28@mail.gmail.com> An alternate view from John Esposito who rebuilds many ODs is Valvoline non-detergent 30W. I use that because he built my OD. Jim -- yes, file it under 'Horses, dead, flogging of'. On 9/4/08, Jim Muller wrote: > > Ah, the zombie thread - you can shoot it but it never dies! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 4 17:42:27 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 16:42:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil In-Reply-To: <2998E64D01CE4F3290E83C38A9CD0901@larry> References: <2998E64D01CE4F3290E83C38A9CD0901@larry> Message-ID: <4F8A28778966417AAAB0B21766D5B462@jdnet.deere.com> > Hi: What is the correct gearbox oil to use. In"How to restore a Triumph" > byRoger Williams He say to use ST90 gear oil. But in the TR3 Service > instruction Manual it says to use SAE 30. Thanks Larry As you may have gathered, Larry, this is an often-debated topic with no clear answer. It's actually much more complicated than it seems, since there are lots of variations in both "gear oil" and "SAE 30". Even Standard-Triumph changed their recommendation several times (after the Service Instruction Manual was printed). Likely, if you drive conservatively, it doesn't actually matter much. Either one will do. The issues seem to arise when you start driving hard (as I like to do). But rather than going through the whole host of reasons why again, I'll just say that my recommendation would be either Valvoline 20W50 "Racing" oil (which has been extensively tested by some folks who live in hot climates and drive their Triumphs hard, but was likely reformulated since then); or Redline MT-90. If you do opt for another "gear oil", IMO it's important that it be rated for "MT-1" service (which you will not find mentioned in any Triumph manual) and at least GL-4. (IMO GL-5 is acceptable if it is also rated MT-1, but not everyone agrees with that.) Randall From team.net at Daveola.com Thu Sep 4 19:08:16 2008 From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Thu, 04 Sep 2008 18:08:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rollbars for TR3 Message-ID: I'm curious about getting a rollbar for my TR3. A few questions: 1) The "street" rollbars seem to still allow the top to be put up, but I presume I need to modify that tonneau cover? 2) What part of the car do these attach to, exactly. It looks like it might be just the wheel well, in which case I can't imagine it would be very strong - or does it go through the body and attach to the frame? 3) How much space does it take up of the "back seat"? Does anyone have any photos of a TR3* with a rollbar installed? Thanks! Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 --- "Teach a man to make fire, and he will be warm for a day. ---- Set a man on fire, and he will be warm for the rest of his life." From auprichard at comcast.net Thu Sep 4 19:59:52 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 21:59:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rollbars for TR3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dave: Here are pictures of mine - a rollbar from Racetorations in the UK (www.racetorations.co.uk). Doesn't interfere with tonneau or soft-top. Attaches directly to the frame (outriggers). Has a bar for over-the-shoulder harness straps. Back seat not usable for passengers (but then, When was it?) But it's expensive ! I know they can put a rollbar in a shipment to the US. I have one coming this week for my second TR3. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Ljung Madison Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 9:08 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rollbars for TR3 I'm curious about getting a rollbar for my TR3. A few questions: 1) The "street" rollbars seem to still allow the top to be put up, but I presume I need to modify that tonneau cover? 2) What part of the car do these attach to, exactly. It looks like it might be just the wheel well, in which case I can't imagine it would be very strong - or does it go through the body and attach to the frame? 3) How much space does it take up of the "back seat"? Does anyone have any photos of a TR3* with a rollbar installed? Thanks! Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 --- "Teach a man to make fire, and he will be warm for a day. ---- Set a man on fire, and he will be warm for the rest of his life." This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Front lawn 2.jpg.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Outside barn 2.jpg.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Seats in.JPG] From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Sep 5 07:54:56 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 09:54:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] STEERING SUCCESS! Message-ID: <017701c90f5e$fb4f9910$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Thanks to all those who gave me input as to my steering for my TR3. It turned out great! For now, I am using the original steering wheel. I am indepted to Andy Dixon for rebuilding my control head for me, as I would have dropped little parts everywhere! I also had to go with a new steering harness, which worked fine (even though I had to cut the bullets off because the wire gauge was slightly bigger). I have yet to permanently hook it up as I have not done the final pass on my electrical system yet. I have the upmost confidence in Posi-lock brand electrical connectors over the bullets. Many folks scoff at that, I know. YMMV I got a great deal on a wooden Nardi/Personnal Brand steering wheel off Ebay. I also had hoped to win a TR3 to Grant, Grant to Nardi adapters. However, someone offered way more then me! I have figured out a homemade type of adapter for my Nardi wheel, so it's okay. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 916 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 5 08:35:40 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:35:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels Message-ID: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> My GT6 is running on Cosmic MkII wheels from a Lotus Europa. At least one needs re-balancing. When the tires were first mounted and delivered to me, they were balanced with what seem to be weights stuck by adhesive pads to the inside of the inner rims. There is no obvious lip on either inner or outer rim such as on a steel wheel where one would clip a weight. Is this adhesive technique standard? More to the point, if I take the car to any random tire place will they know what to do or will they look at them and refuse to do it? Or do it poorly? Should I go to one of the places around here which display collections of spiffy alloy wheels in their windows? And what if someone sticks adhesive weights to a dirty rim? What would keep them sticking through rain, snow, sleet, and gloom of night? Not that I intend to drive through snow or sleet, but rain happens unexpectedly rather often. Tanks, -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jsukey at eng.utoledo.edu Fri Sep 5 08:42:12 2008 From: jsukey at eng.utoledo.edu (jsukey at eng.utoledo.edu) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:42:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR8 throttle cable needed at the Glen Message-ID: <20080905104212.63klb4hn28g8wc4g@webmail.eng.utoledo.edu> I'm posting this for my dad (Marty Sukey) who is in New York somewhere on his way to Watkins Glen as I type. He is in need of a throttle cable for his carburated TR8, he is limping along now with a broken cable and doesn't expect the bandaid fix to make it very far. If anyone who is heading that way has a cable they are willing to sell, please contact him at 440.225.0209, or find him around the Triumph paddock. Thanks, Jason Sukey From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Sep 5 08:46:58 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 07:46:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809050746q6bb42d39r98756760edc510de@mail.gmail.com> I have always used stick-ons on my wire and alloy wheels and have never lost one. Cannot say the same for the old clip-on lead weights... i.e. have known them to fall off. From supertr6 at earthlink.net Fri Sep 5 08:48:43 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:48:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> Message-ID: <48C146CB.7060704@earthlink.net> That is pretty much standard on modern cars. I don't think I've seen clip on weights in years. Make sure they clean the inner rim before sticking the weights on. All my cars have those. I HATED those clip on things, the damaged the rirms. Jim Muller wrote: > My GT6 is running on Cosmic MkII wheels from a Lotus Europa. At > least one needs re-balancing. When the tires were first mounted and > delivered to me, they were balanced with what seem to be weights > stuck by adhesive pads to the inside of the inner rims. There is no > obvious lip on either inner or outer rim such as on a steel wheel > where one would clip a weight. > > Is this adhesive technique standard? More to the point, if I take > the car to any random tire place will they know what to do or will > they look at them and refuse to do it? Or do it poorly? Should I go > to one of the places around here which display collections of spiffy > alloy wheels in their windows? > > And what if someone sticks adhesive weights to a dirty rim? What > would keep them sticking through rain, snow, sleet, and gloom of > night? Not that I intend to drive through snow or sleet, but rain > happens unexpectedly rather often. > > Tanks, From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 5 08:55:44 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 10:55:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR8 throttle cable needed at the Glen References: <20080905104212.63klb4hn28g8wc4g@webmail.eng.utoledo.edu> Message-ID: <006001c90f67$7a26c8a0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Jason send an e-mail to TSI have them bring one to the Glen Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:42 AM Subject: [Fot] TR8 throttle cable needed at the Glen > I'm posting this for my dad (Marty Sukey) who is in New York somewhere > on his way to Watkins Glen as I type. He is in need of a throttle > cable for his carburated TR8, he is limping along now with a broken > cable and doesn't expect the bandaid fix to make it very far. If > anyone who is heading that way has a cable they are willing to sell, > please contact him at 440.225.0209, or find him around the Triumph > paddock. > > Thanks, > Jason Sukey > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Fot mailing list > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 5 08:59:45 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 10:59:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> <7bb181af0809050746q6bb42d39r98756760edc510de@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <006b01c90f68$09933eb0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Jim find a good shop not just any place Its your money and car Craig PS: stay a way from the clip on type ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: Cc: Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:46 AM Subject: Re: [TR] how they balance allow wheels >I have always used stick-ons on my wire and alloy wheels and have > never lost one. > > Cannot say the same for the old clip-on lead weights... i.e. have > known them to fall off. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Sep 5 08:59:32 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 10:59:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR8 throttle cable needed at the Glen In-Reply-To: <006001c90f67$7a26c8a0$0300a8c0@Desktop> References: <20080905104212.63klb4hn28g8wc4g@webmail.eng.utoledo.edu> <006001c90f67$7a26c8a0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Message-ID: <8CADD7F2331CFEC-1308-FFE@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Craig Jason send an e-mail to TSI have them bring one to the Glen ==AM== I suppose it's worth a try...except that Ted's already there @ the Glen. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From opposumking at verizon.net Fri Sep 5 09:13:43 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 11:13:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> Message-ID: <001701c90f69$ff484980$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Ask. Many places do in fact use clip-on weights on aluminum wheels. If you don't want them used, you need to be specific and explicit with them. Some will refuse and turn you away. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Sep 5 10:09:57 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 12:09:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> Message-ID: <000001c90f71$d96adc70$210110ac@bobspc> Jim, I just had new tires mounted on my alloys and they used stick on weights which is what I see on all my cars. More importantly though was the "new" balance machine that they used. Most machines slide the center wheel hole over a shaft and lock it down with a tapered cone and then spin the wheel. If done wrong the tapered cone can ruin your wheel hub. The kid at Sears wrecked 3 of 4 wheels on my brand new Audi Quattro many years ago but that's another story. Anyway....my tire place now has this "new" balancer that actually mounts via the lug nut holes. These have been around for a while but each stud had to be manually aligned with the wheel's stud hole. This machine does it automatically and gets it centered perfectly. Same place that will fill your tires with nitrogen! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:36 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels My GT6 is running on Cosmic MkII wheels from a Lotus Europa. At least one needs re-balancing. When the tires were first mounted and delivered to me, they were balanced with what seem to be weights stuck by adhesive pads to the inside of the inner rims. There is no obvious lip on either inner or outer rim such as on a steel wheel where one would clip a weight. Is this adhesive technique standard? More to the point, if I take the car to any random tire place will they know what to do or will they look at them and refuse to do it? Or do it poorly? Should I go to one of the places around here which display collections of spiffy alloy wheels in their windows? And what if someone sticks adhesive weights to a dirty rim? What would keep them sticking through rain, snow, sleet, and gloom of night? Not that I intend to drive through snow or sleet, but rain happens unexpectedly rather often. Tanks, -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.16/1653 - Release Date: 9/5/2008 6:57 AM From Greg.Tobin at trizetto.com Fri Sep 5 10:29:15 2008 From: Greg.Tobin at trizetto.com (Tobin, Greg) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 10:29:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil Message-ID: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C41321@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com> > Hi: What is the correct gearbox oil to use. In"How to restore a Triumph" > byRoger Williams He say to use ST90 gear oil. But in the TR3 Service > instruction Manual it says to use SAE 30. What I've seen on this (the never ending thread) is that pretty much *anything* is used with success. ATF, 5w30-20w50, gearoil, synthetic 50W, marvel mystery oil, hydraulic oil for tractors, and no doubt someone is running home-rendered lard in one too. So maybe try something new and see what good results you will get too!!! ;) As a side note, I wonder if this shows the durability (besides the synchros) of the transmissions???? -greg ++++++ CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE ++++++ This e-mail and any attachment(s) may contain confidential or privileged information, including personal health or other information which you are required by federal and state laws to safeguard and protect from further disclosure and may be subject to contract provisions or other requirements restricting the use and disclosure of such information. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail, or an authorized employee or agent of the intended recipient who is responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, you are not authorized to access this e-mail and its attachment(s), so please delete it and promptly notify the sender. Do not forward this message or its attachment(s) or retain copies of it. Incorrect delivery is not a waiver of any legal protection of the contents of this email.Thank You. From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 5 10:36:42 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 12:36:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: <000001c90f71$d96adc70$210110ac@bobspc> References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> Message-ID: <48C127DA.18357.1FB3130B@localhost> On 5 Sep 2008 at 12:09, Bob Danielson wrote: > Same place that will fill your tires with nitrogen! Forget nitrogen, I found something better. Helium! I considered hydrogen but figured I rather fly a Spitfire than re- create the Hindenburg. ----------- And three days later: Howcome my tires look like a shriveled up birthday party? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Sep 5 10:44:54 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 12:44:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR8 throttle cable needed at the Glen References: <20080905104212.63klb4hn28g8wc4g@webmail.eng.utoledo.edu><006001c90f67$7a26c8a0$0300a8c0@Desktop> <8CADD7F2331CFEC-1308-FFE@WEBMAIL-DG13.sim.aol.com> Message-ID: <008401c90f76$ba05f540$0300a8c0@Desktop> You never know what Ted may have with him Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Mace" To: ; ; ; Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:59 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [Fot] TR8 throttle cable needed at the Glen > -----Original Message----- > From: Craig > > Jason > send an e-mail to TSI have them bring one to the Glen > > ==AM== > I suppose it's worth a try...except that Ted's already there @ the Glen. > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database at its new URL: > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tochilds at bellsouth.net Fri Sep 5 11:11:40 2008 From: tochilds at bellsouth.net (Tony Childs) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 13:11:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil In-Reply-To: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C41321@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com> References: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C41321@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com> Message-ID: Okay, Take a look a the information posted at this link: http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11 After reviewing the information from the link above from the guys that know a heck of lot more than I concerning overdrives and trannys, I chose to go with straight grade SAE30 oil; in my D-Type overdrive when I installed it in my Spit. I have no delay in engagement or disengagement and no slippage at all. Trans shifts smoothly and no noisy gears. Also, keep in mind that engine oil and gear oil viscosities are not rated on the same scale. At the same temps, 30 weight motor oil and 90 weight gear oil are very similar in viscosity. Just my opinion - YMMV. Tony Childs 72 Spitfire FK38809UO -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+tochilds=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+tochilds=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tobin, Greg Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 12:29 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox oil > Hi: What is the correct gearbox oil to use. In"How to restore a Triumph" > byRoger Williams He say to use ST90 gear oil. But in the TR3 Service > instruction Manual it says to use SAE 30. What I've seen on this (the never ending thread) is that pretty much *anything* is used with success. ATF, 5w30-20w50, gearoil, synthetic 50W, marvel mystery oil, hydraulic oil for tractors, and no doubt someone is running home-rendered lard in one too. So maybe try something new and see what good results you will get too!!! ;) As a side note, I wonder if this shows the durability (besides the synchros) of the transmissions???? -greg ++++++ CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE ++++++ This e-mail and any attachment(s) may contain confidential or privileged information, including personal health or other information which you are required by federal and state laws to safeguard and protect from further disclosure and may be subject to contract provisions or other requirements restricting the use and disclosure of such information. If you are not the intended recipient of this e-mail, or an authorized employee or agent of the intended recipient who is responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient, you are not authorized to access this e-mail and its attachment(s), so please delete it and promptly notify the sender. Do not forward this message or its attachment(s) or retain copies of it. Incorrect delivery is not a waiver of any legal protection of the contents of this email.Thank You. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tochilds at bellsouth.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 5 11:26:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 10:26:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil In-Reply-To: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C41321@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com> References: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C41321@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com> Message-ID: > As a side note, I wonder if this shows the durability (besides the > synchros) > of the transmissions???? Don't forget the thrust washers on the TRs, which John/Quantum Mechanics specifically mentions as a weak point. The legend as it was passed to me says that Triumph switched back to recommending gear oil, in order to reduce warranty returns for thrust washer problems. But there again, the problem only shows if you drive it like a sports car, instead of like a museum piece. Randall From motorcarriage at charter.net Fri Sep 5 11:54:25 2008 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 13:54:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil References: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C41321@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com> Message-ID: <58B81E234DCE40EEB1C93BECA0B852B8@D9Z8J571> I have a case of 24 Quaker State Racing Oil Cans (40WT)left over from the 70's in the Garage. I wonder how this would work in a non O/D TR6 Box. I'm a big believer in Mobil 1 Gear Oil except in old boxes that haven't been re-sealed and could pose a problem with fresh leaks. I like having some on the shelves for nostalgia's sake but I could give up a few of the dented Cans if they'd be useful in the TR6. Maybe in one of the old Land Rover Boxes, I'll have to check on that. Regards, 64 TR4 75 TR6 (daily driver) sold the TR3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 1:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] gearbox oil >> As a side note, I wonder if this shows the durability (besides the >> synchros) >> of the transmissions???? > > Don't forget the thrust washers on the TRs, which John/Quantum Mechanics > specifically mentions as a weak point. > > The legend as it was passed to me says that Triumph switched back to > recommending gear oil, in order to reduce warranty returns for thrust > washer > problems. > > But there again, the problem only shows if you drive it like a sports car, > instead of like a museum piece. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as motorcarriage at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 5 11:59:32 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 13:59:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] gearbox oil In-Reply-To: References: <76185DFA41E4294AADE6D6E89110C2BA02C41321@den-tzg-exmb-08.corp.trizetto.com> Message-ID: <48C13B44.3364.1FFEE860@localhost> On 5 Sep 2008 at 13:11, Tony Childs wrote: > I chose to go with straight grade SAE30 oil; in my D-Type overdrive > when I installed it in my Spit. I have no delay in engagement or > disengagement and no slippage at all. Trans shifts smoothly and no > noisy gears. When I first installed a rebuilt gearbox w/OD from QM I used non-D 30 as John E recommended. It worked okay (after I replaced the solenoid and then the entire OD, but that's a different story). But what I also observed was that the shifting behavior changed with gearbox temperature. Perhaps it is because the only non-D oil I could find was probably pretty cheap stuff, but it seemed to thin out rather badly as the box warmed. When I recently switched to Valvoline Racing Oil 20w50, that behavior went away. Now it feels smooth and lightly damped no matter the temperature. And the OD works like a charm, as God and L. de N. intended. Just my observation. YMMV. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 5 13:13:24 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 15:13:24 EDT Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels Message-ID: In a message dated 9/5/2008 11:37:15 AM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Forget nitrogen, I found something better. Helium! > Doesn't that make them screech at a particularly high pitch? Dave From dphenry at wpia.net Fri Sep 5 13:46:03 2008 From: dphenry at wpia.net (Dana P. Henry) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 15:46:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS NAvigator References: Message-ID: Any suggestions on what models are hot right now and might be a good buy? TY, DPH From mathews at uga.edu Fri Sep 5 13:56:25 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 15:56:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080905195627.AD380187665@autox.team.net> I though that was illegal ;-) At 03:46 PM 9/5/2008, you wrote: >Any suggestions on what models are hot right now and might be a good buy? From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Sep 5 13:58:47 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 15:58:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] OLD STEERING WHEEL SOUGHT Message-ID: <018201c90f91$cf81e1c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I forgot to ask for a part. Although I've got my original TR3 Steering Wheel and control head working fine eventually, I'd like to change to a wooden Nardi wheel. I've got an idea for a homemade type steering wheel adapter in mind for that day. My plans are to use the cast middle-hub portion of a TR3's steering wheel as a major part of the adapter. That way, I be able to use the hub and control head for both turn signals and horn. Problem is: I do not have such a part! If anyone has a beat up steering wheel with a good center part, or just a good center part of a steering wheel that their willing to part with, would they please write me off-list. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 916 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From jeffn at msystech.com Fri Sep 5 15:12:35 2008 From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 17:12:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS NAvigator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Henry, If you want a basic model with Text To Speech, I bought the Garmin 255W. Have been using it for about 2 months, and no major problems. Just don't think the batteries will last for the 4 hours as advertised - mine have lasted for about 2 to 2.5 hours. So, if you want to use for longer than average trips in the LBC, install a cigarette lighter. Thanks, Jeff N. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dana P. Henry" To: Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 3:46 PM Subject: [TR] GPS NAvigator > Any suggestions on what models are hot right now and might be a good buy? > > TY, > > DPH > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jeffn at msystech.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Sep 5 15:13:39 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 17:13:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Back on-line some triumph content In-Reply-To: <006001c90f67$7a26c8a0$0300a8c0@Desktop> References: <20080905104212.63klb4hn28g8wc4g@webmail.eng.utoledo.edu> <006001c90f67$7a26c8a0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Message-ID: <200809051713.39203.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello all. Well I am back online with a new OS as my 7 year old 40 G drive bit the dust. That means the end of windoz for ever. I was using the primary to boot my gentoo system on drive 2. The good news is all my "data" was on drive 2 and is intact. All I had to do was buy a new drive (80 bucks) take about 3 hours to install Ubuntu (KDE version) and I am back. The Ubuntu install is about the easiest I have ever seen. Updates are a snap. Much better than Gentoo. Now to the TR stuff. Will be heading up to the Glen early in the morning. Should get there about 10 or so. Looks like the rain is going to hold off until night. Pick up the 72 TR6 on Wednesday. Still not sure why I want to punish myself and do another full body off frame, engine rebuild etc on a car I am not familiar with. After finishing the 4 last year, I said to the wife that concludes my restorations, but now that I have 2 Triumphs and am driving to more shows and car hops and hearing those nice 6s, I get that bug again. And as if by magic I am getting another project! When will we ever learn? But I have to admit, the 4 did come out real nice and it is a wonderfull car to drive and is a real looker. Also decided that a French Blue would look nice next to the Pale Yellow 3 and the Spa White 4. Eventhough the 72 did not come in that color. Not sure what the interior will be though. Bob From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Fri Sep 5 15:13:41 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 17:13:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS NAvigator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <07FAA8BE-3ACD-4133-8B55-537FE17630D9@mindspring.com> I bought a Garmin Nuvi 260W about a month ago and like it very much. It's priced at $255 on Amazon. It's a middle of the road gps without all the extra features that don't contribute to navigation: such as MP3 player, dishwasher, and hot air dryer. Mandatory LBC content: I do have it set to a rather sexy British female voice though. Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Sep 5, 2008, at 3:46 PM, Dana P. Henry wrote: > Any suggestions on what models are hot right now and might be a good > buy? > > TY, > > DPH From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 5 15:39:38 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 16:39:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] GPS NAvigator References: <07FAA8BE-3ACD-4133-8B55-537FE17630D9@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <000d01c90f9f$e772ffe0$e91f10ac@Ranteer.local> we have a garmin. i like it a lot. its not the nuvi; its a bit bulkier. and, Ashford, you can set it to a sexy australian voice! have used it for several hours on batteries, but have also installed a cig lighter up under the dash. i also have a sprint instinct. that works too! From steven at newellboys.net Fri Sep 5 17:03:40 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 17:03:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Nitrogen in Tires In-Reply-To: <48BC670B.29725.D21F8BB@localhost> References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> <48BC670B.29725.D21F8BB@localhost> Message-ID: <48C1BACC.4020400@newellboys.net> Jim Muller wrote: >Several thoughts come to mind. 1. Even with notrogen in the inside >the tires would still be exposed to air on the outside.... > To protect my tires, I'm looking for a system to fill my garage with nitrogen. What systems have other list members used? Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 etc. From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 5 18:18:08 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 00:18:08 +0000 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage Message-ID: <090620080018.8772.48C1CC40000503E40000224422165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Ola, all! First, this issue is not so bad I want to tear out the tranny and replace the clutch. But...what's happening is, during "spirited" shifting, at high rev and quick clutch release, I don't get a hard slam from the clutch, but rather a slow, drawn out engagement that leaves me stranded for acceleration for about a second, second-and-a-half. Might there be an issue with the slave not releasing soon enough? This was a new slave 3 years ago. If it helps, the first clutch I installed during the ground up wouldn't engage at all, so I had to pull the tranny and swap out for the original clutch and pressure plate. Thoughts? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 5 18:44:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 17:44:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage In-Reply-To: <090620080018.8772.48C1CC40000503E40000224422165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <090620080018.8772.48C1CC40000503E40000224422165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6ED6A7FCBDD64F70831551AC361891EF@jdnet.deere.com> > Might there be an issue with the slave not releasing soon enough? Could well be. Have you inspected the line for damage, and tried replacing the flexible line? Are you sure there is sufficient freeplay at both the master and slave pushrods? Checked inside the MC to be sure both springs are in place and good condition? Pedal moves easily and return spring lifts it to the stop? > If it helps, the first clutch I installed during the ground up wouldn't > engage at all, so I had to pull the tranny and swap out for the original > clutch and pressure plate. So, what was wrong with them? I've never seen a TR3 clutch fail like that, but I can't imagine anything that wouldn't be obvious once it's out. Didn't you have to compress the pressure plate springs when you bolted it to the flywheel? Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Sep 5 18:51:18 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 20:51:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS NAvigator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48C19BC6.7122.2177E374@localhost> > Any suggestions on what models are hot right now and might > be a good buy? To my mind there have always been two schools of thought on this subject (not counting using a unit built into the car, which doesn't work in an unmodified LBC dashboard). One school says use a hand- held or portable GPS unit, using loadable maps, possibly with routes worked out from an online site like Mapquest. The alternative, and my own preference, is to use a laptop PC-based map program that reacts with an attached GPS unit. A PC-based map program gives you convenient access to maps for areas you may not have loaded into a smaller unit. It can calculate fastest or shortest routes. It lets you plan routes, look at alternatives, check driving times, etc. It can provide travel services, phone numbers, etc. The map display can be large and detailed. The PC resources let it do voice synthesis to announce upcoming turns, and voice recognition to respond to commands. Of course, it has disadvantages too. It does require carrying the laptop. It can be hard or impossible to watch while driving because you can't stick it to your windshield with suction cups. Some of those limitations are easy to overcome. A willing passenger, especially one with geek tendencies anyway, can carry the laptop and watch the display. A headset with mic lets you hear upcoming turns and give the computer commands. A power inverter or car adapter lets you run the laptop indefinitely. My preference for many years has been DeLorme StreetAtlas. I use it with a DeLorme Earthmate GPS unit, an old one I bought years ago. They have nice USB and Bluetooth units now. StreetAtlas recognizes other GPS units too. I put the laptop in the center of the floor of our Caravan, behind the seats where I can glance at it quickly if I wish but where it is otherwise out of site, out of mind. I listen to it and talk to it with a headset. It tells me when to turn, and recalculates the route if necessary. (And scolds me gently.) I can choose which Microsoft voice it should use. It is quite good at recognizing commands. It rejects other speech because a setting lets me define how a command must start. (A friend once suggested the command be "Yo Bubba!" I've stuck with it.) Perhaps portable GPS units do all this now too. But you still can't get the big screenful of map details. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Fri Sep 5 20:25:56 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 19:25:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: <000001c90f71$d96adc70$210110ac@bobspc> References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> <000001c90f71$d96adc70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809051925m45e0f12bh8724c280a4a43044@mail.gmail.com> Do you mean Costco? I wonder if such a machine could balance a wire wheel mounted on a slined hub with knock-off? On 9/5/08, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > ...has this "new" balancer that actually mounts via the lug nut > holes. These have been around for a while but each stud had to be manually > aligned with the wheel's stud hole. This machine does it automatically and > gets it centered perfectly. > > Same place that will fill your tires with nitrogen! From pethier at comcast.net Fri Sep 5 20:34:01 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 02:34:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels Message-ID: <090620080234.21608.48C1EC19000B89100000546822165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Geo Hahn" > Do you mean Costco? > > I wonder if such a machine could balance a wire wheel mounted on a > slined hub with knock-off? If the wheel is a later-model Dayton, it works just fine between two cones. Don't try that with a Dunlop. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Sep 5 21:05:29 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 23:05:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> <000001c90f71$d96adc70$210110ac@bobspc> <7bb181af0809051925m45e0f12bh8724c280a4a43044@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <007301c90fcd$6bb36100$72537247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Probably any motorcycle shop, especially a "Harley" dealer !!!! "FT" ================================================================================= ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Cc: Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 10:25 PM Subject: Re: [TR] how they balance allow wheels > Do you mean Costco? > > I wonder if such a machine could balance a wire wheel mounted on a > slined hub with knock-off? > > On 9/5/08, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > >> ...has this "new" balancer that actually mounts via the lug nut >> holes. These have been around for a while but each stud had to be >> manually >> aligned with the wheel's stud hole. This machine does it automatically >> and >> gets it centered perfectly. >> >> Same place that will fill your tires with nitrogen! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr6 at pobox.com Fri Sep 5 21:16:22 2008 From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph) Date: Fri, 05 Sep 2008 22:16:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] GPS NAvigator In-Reply-To: <48C19BC6.7122.2177E374@localhost> References: <48C19BC6.7122.2177E374@localhost> Message-ID: <48C1F606.2030604@pobox.com> For a little more than $200 you can get a handheld/suction mount unit that has the entire USA loaded into it, voice prompts, turn-by-turn directions, auto zoom in/out as you move from city to highway, etc. All the travel services/phone numbers/etc are there and can generally be updated. If you need an area larger than that, you can load the maps... but I suspect if that is the case, then you probably aren't driving a 30+ year old car. I don't think the laptop/gps/power inverter combo is a viable option any longer. (And with Microsoft no less! Pull over and reboot the GPS!) Jim Muller wrote: > To my mind there have always been two schools of thought on this > subject (not counting using a unit built into the car, which doesn't > work in an unmodified LBC dashboard). One school says use a hand- > held or portable GPS unit, using loadable maps, possibly with routes > worked out from an online site like Mapquest. The alternative, and > my own preference, is to use a laptop PC-based map program that > reacts with an attached GPS unit. > > A PC-based map program gives you convenient access to maps for areas > you may not have loaded into a smaller unit. It can calculate > fastest or shortest routes. It lets you plan routes, look at > alternatives, check driving times, etc. It can provide travel > services, phone numbers, etc. The map display can be large and > detailed. The PC resources let it do voice synthesis to announce > upcoming turns, and voice recognition to respond to commands. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 5 22:59:40 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 23:59:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] GPS NAvigator References: <48C19BC6.7122.2177E374@localhost> <48C1F606.2030604@pobox.com> Message-ID: <002001c90fdd$92320330$6515a8c0@Ranteer.local> i've used both. the laptop unit is great for planning rallies, routes, that kind of thing. if you really want to get deep into it, its great. if you just want to get there, its waaaaaaaay too much effort. plug the gps in, tell it where you want to go, and follow directions. slam dunk. now, for your entertainment, something I wrote not too long ago: There was a time when you carried a dime in your pocket in case you needed to call home. One time I thought I would save my dime and called home collect. Never did that again! Now we find that we don't know any one's phone numbers because they are in speed dial. I even have Chili's and Pizza Hut on speed dial! Although I feel I'm a late comer to the game of GPS units, I look around and see that in fact I'm not. Recently I started using my laptop and a USB satellite receiver and became totally hooked. But - I feel inadequate because I could not get a blue tooth unit to work with my laptop or my cell phone. So now I'm ordering a windshield mount unit which will be great fun on those LBC trips. But I'm worried about the future! Of course both my kids have cell phones (they all do!), and they don't know any numbers either. And I know there are grandparents who totally bore the young ones with stories about life without cell phones, pagers (what's that?), pay phones (seen one lately??), and actually having to learn phone numbers. So what's in store now? Soon no one will know how to get anywhere. Giving directions will be a lost art. You climb into the car with your grandkids; they look around and say "where's the gps?" You say "I don't have one." They reply: "You actually know how to get there? " From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 03:34:27 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 05:34:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm on my fourth GPS. From a very basic hand held that could not route (but still useful) I stepped up to a Garmin that needed routes and maps to be loaded from a laptop. This becomes tedious and inflexible very quickly. I then bought my wife a top of range Tom Tom 910. It does everything but a neck massage, yet we use nothing but navigation. It is over- adorned with features (phone, music, even pictures, I think). Its overkill. Earlier this year, I bought a mid-range device (TomTom One with voice). It does navigation very well. I can hear directions clearly in an open car. Garmin and others have equivalent units. My recommendation: don't be persuaded by blue tooth features etc. Get a mid-range unit from one of the bigger suppliers like Tom Tom or Garmin that just navigates with voice....(not all do, there is a Tom Tom One without voice). In the convenience of these self-contained units, you lose some specificity of route that you had with the lap-top-hookup units, where you could just easily drag a route to avoid a congested area or something, and you'd have more route data (miles, timing on multi-leg routes). I found it an easy trade. Cheers, Brian From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sat Sep 6 02:23:34 2008 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 10:23:34 +0200 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> Message-ID: <000101c91003$eba623d0$0500a8c0@Study> My TR4A has had Cosmic wheels from new and I have never had any problem with the weights falling off in the 30+ years and several rebalancings done during that time. Any reputable tyre shop surely would clean the rims inside and out before putting new weights on? OTOH I sometimes wonder if any fatigue cracks could have developed in the wheels. Should I send all 4 wheels to be crack tested during my next tyre change? David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 12814 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Sep 6 06:14:48 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 08:14:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c9101a$29ee7fa0$210110ac@bobspc> For Father's Day, my wife got me the Garmin Nuvi 350 which sells for $199 at Amazon with free shipping. She read every portable GPS review she could find including good old Consumer Reports. Whether you love or hate Consumer Reports, they're doing GPS units on a regular basis now and they do a good job of explaining features so you can decide what you need. For her it came down to Garmin or TomTom and Garmin won based on the Amazon delivered price. We have built-in navigation in both of our "other" cars so I was interested to see how the portable unit would compare. It's scary good. Maps on the 3.5" widescreen are clear and easily readable, satellite acquisition is very fast, voice directions are loud enough and the re-routing function is very fast. One feature I love is the screen that shows you: current speed, overall avg speed, moving avg speed, maximum speed, total trip time, moving time, stopped time, trip distance covered and trip distance remaining. So you can go between that screen and the actual map screen while your traveling. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 6 06:45:58 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 12:45:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: <000001c90f71$d96adc70$210110ac@bobspc> References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> <000001c90f71$d96adc70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: >"new" balancer that actually mounts via the lug nut > holes. One of these machines is what start4ed my quest to cure run out last year. I suppose they are great machines if everything about the wheel is bone stock and clean. Every time I has my wheels balanced this way the boys at Costco would tell me my wheels were bent. My wheels were set to less than 0.020 run out on a lathe and they have never hit anything. Turns out the powder coating on was also in the lug holes and misaligned them on the machine. I did go back to another place that has the center hole type machine. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 6 06:48:12 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 12:48:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: <48C127DA.18357.1FB3130B@localhost> References: <48C10B7C.8599.1F444300@localhost> <48C127DA.18357.1FB3130B@localhost> Message-ID: > Forget nitrogen, I found something better. Helium! As far as that goes just about any inert gas should work, i.e. argon from you welder. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Sep 6 06:48:24 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 08:48:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage In-Reply-To: <090620080018.8772.48C1CC40000503E40000224422165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <090620080018.8772.48C1CC40000503E40000224422165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200809060848.24369.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 05 September 2008 20:18:08 terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Ola, all! > First, this issue is not so bad I want to tear out the tranny and replace > the clutch. But...what's happening is, during "spirited" shifting, at high > rev and quick clutch release, I don't get a hard slam from the clutch, but > rather a slow, drawn out engagement that leaves me stranded for > acceleration for about a second, second-and-a-half. Might there be an issue > with the slave not releasing soon enough? This was a new slave 3 years > ago. If it helps, the first clutch I installed during the ground up > wouldn't engage at all, so I had to pull the tranny and swap out for the > original clutch and pressure plate. Thoughts? > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) > New Hampshire Terry, Did you ever figure out why the new clutch didnt work? Could be not enough free play between the pushrod and slave as Randall mentioned. I take it the clutch fork, pin and throwout are working with ease when you had the trans out? I guess it is possible the drive plate is binding but that would mean either the shaft is worn or the plate is worn where it runs over the shaft. When you install the pressure plate you should see a sizeable compression as you tighten the bolts. This is the "pressure" that is released when you depress the clutch. Another possibility is the slave piston could be binding as well. Insure good condition and also check the external return spring for correct installation. I think the push rod should be mounted in the center hole of the fork shaft. Bob From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Sep 6 08:33:26 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 07:33:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator In-Reply-To: <000601c9101a$29ee7fa0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c9101a$29ee7fa0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809060733w46b647c1ob8be4a8ab6f3d26c@mail.gmail.com> Wow, these things seem to be popular... but in a TR3 that still has a generator, points and crankhole in the radiator, anything more complicated than a paper map would seem out of place. I carry two maps for each state I will be in, one a current AAA and the other a pre-interstate map from the 50s. Geo From opposumking at verizon.net Sat Sep 6 10:20:16 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 12:20:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator References: Message-ID: I went with the delorme Earthmate PN-20. I gave it a lot of thought. I don't need, or even particularly want a unit to route out a map for me. I still like to do that myself. Though I did want it to be able to show me the direction or route to home at the end of the day. I very much did want a unit to be able to take notes of interesting points as I travel. I wanted it to show me more than just roads, as I wanted to use it for hiking, hunting, trapping and other sundry things. Because I'd use it on the motorcycle and in the woods and swamps, it had to be waterproof. That left me with basically the Garmin 60 series and the Earthmate PN-20. The PN-20 has much better mapping software. It's the best in the business. Speed is it's downfall. The PN-20 is no speed demon, especially at routing and redrawing topo maps or aerial photographs. Though the upcoming PN-40 seems to be fine. So far, it's worked as I've wanted it to. I can tell it to give me an arrow pointing home, and it does. Both on the map and on the compass. I push the button, and it marks wherever I am as a waypoint, and lets me write whatever I want as a description, and I get to chose one of many pretty icons. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 10:24:57 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 09:24:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080906162458.YGPD21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I did go back to another place that has the center hole type machine. Which I suppose brings us back full circle. The tire machine needs to locate the wheel the same way your vehicle does; without assuming that any other features are perfectly aligned. In some cases, that's the center hole ("hub centric"), while in others it's the mounting holes ("lug centric"). Using the center hole on a wheel for a lug centric vehicle is just as likely to cause problems as using the lug holes on a wheel for a hub centric vehicle. Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 10:28:07 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 09:28:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We have gone for the Nuvi 200 ... does everything we need, even bought a UK "chip" for our travel to the UK, the only addition I would suggest would be a "stylus" type pen for inputting names/addresses etc. I agree that you should avoid all the "add ons" bluetooth, mp3, video ... not worth the effort .. IMHO... the 200 is currently selling for around $150 and it works ... -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 10:35:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 09:35:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080906163509.YJXM21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I went with the delorme Earthmate PN-20. Just curious, Nolan, any idea what GPS chipset it uses? Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Sat Sep 6 11:36:31 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 12:36:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator References: <20080906163509.YJXM21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: I've been reading this thread with great interest, because I am looking to replace my current GPS. It is a Garmin GPSMap 76c. which is handheld unit that can be mounted in a vehicle. I have had it for many years, after my first GPS was stolen. I use it in my truck, I use on my bicycle (there is a handlebar mount) and I use it in my other job as captain of dinner cruise boats. It is a great unit, but the screen has never been bright enough to read in bright sunlight and I found myself having to take my eye off the road for extended periods of time in order to read it, which is not safe. So, based on what i have read here, i just placed orders for two units, a Garmin Nuvi 360 (for the Mrs.) and a Nuvi 370. They both have text to speech capability (that is they tell you street names, rather than just saying "turn right in 500 ft" and they both have bluetooth connectivity so that they can be used as a hands-free device while driving. The 370 also comes with European maps already installed, which is important to me because I travel to the UK often. At 10 GBP/day for "Neverlost" I will have paid for the additonal cost of the 370 after three days of using the Nuvi in England. Both these units are discontinued by Garmin, which is why Amazon has them so cheap ($224 for the 360 and $269 for the 370), but based on my years of satisfaction with Garmin products, and based on some of the comments I read here, I decided that i would buy them. Mike >> I went with the delorme Earthmate PN-20. From opposumking at verizon.net Sat Sep 6 11:52:09 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 13:52:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator References: <20080906163509.YJXM21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: STMicroelectronics I believe. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Triumph List'" Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 12:35 PM Subject: Re: [TR] GPS Navigator >> I went with the delorme Earthmate PN-20. > > Just curious, Nolan, any idea what GPS chipset it uses? > > Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 16:07:35 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 22:07:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage Message-ID: <090620082207.25436.48C2FF27000A514A0000635C22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Line, MC, slave, flex line, all new three years ago. Will inspect again. Have checked and rechecked the adjustment for the proper free play. Am abruptly enlightened to check the pedal box, which I haven't done yet. It was frozen solid when I got the car, and I rebuilt it, but the lube I put in might be gone now, and it could very well be binding slightly. Nice reminder, Randall. Thanks! In terms of the clutch, I frankly don't understand the operational mechanics that well. Did check for a broken spring on the pressure and clutch plates, couldn't find one. Used a pilot spline and am pretty sure the thing was lined up as supposed to be. These were an e-bay matched set, so I replaced them with the ones original to the car. The original set worked much better, other than this. ISR that there are grease fittings for the fork area that one has to be careful not to overgrease, or risk something of the type of symptom I'm experiencing? I think I was careful but who knows when you can't see it. Would spraying brake cleaner through the access panel with the clutch pedal depressed clean any film? -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > Might there be an issue with the slave not releasing soon enough? > > Could well be. Have you inspected the line for damage, and tried replacing > the flexible line? Are you sure there is sufficient freeplay at both the > master and slave pushrods? Checked inside the MC to be sure both springs > are in place and good condition? Pedal moves easily and return spring lifts > it to the stop? > > > If it helps, the first clutch I installed during the ground up wouldn't > > engage at all, so I had to pull the tranny and swap out for the original > > clutch and pressure plate. > > So, what was wrong with them? I've never seen a TR3 clutch fail like that, > but I can't imagine anything that wouldn't be obvious once it's out. Didn't > you have to compress the pressure plate springs when you bolted it to the > flywheel? From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 16:23:42 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 22:23:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator Message-ID: <090620082223.27219.48C302EE000AD28C00006A5322165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Embarrassingly revealing question here: Can you read the screen while you're driving ...ahem... without putting you your reading glasses? Terry Smith New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > For Father's Day, my wife got me the Garmin Nuvi 350 which sells for $199 at > Amazon with free shipping. She read every portable GPS review she could find > including good old Consumer Reports. Whether you love or hate Consumer > Reports, they're doing GPS units on a regular basis now and they do a good > job of explaining features so you can decide what you need. For her it came > down to Garmin or TomTom and Garmin won based on the Amazon delivered price. > > We have built-in navigation in both of our "other" cars so I was interested > to see how the portable unit would compare. It's scary good. Maps on the > 3.5" widescreen are clear and easily readable, satellite acquisition is very > fast, voice directions are loud enough and the re-routing function is very > fast. One feature I love is the screen that shows you: current speed, > overall avg speed, moving avg speed, maximum speed, total trip time, moving > time, stopped time, trip distance covered and trip distance remaining. So > you can go between that screen and the actual map screen while your > traveling. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 16:26:13 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 22:26:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage Message-ID: <090620082226.2975.48C3038500014F8A00000B9F22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Thanks, Bob. I'll recheck which hole on the fork shaft the push rod is mounted to. (The one great thing I appreciate about physics is, you don't need to have had physics to avoid it!) Terry -------------- Original message -------------- From: Bob > On Friday 05 September 2008 20:18:08 terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > > Ola, all! > > First, this issue is not so bad I want to tear out the tranny and replace > > the clutch. But...what's happening is, during "spirited" shifting, at high > > rev and quick clutch release, I don't get a hard slam from the clutch, but > > rather a slow, drawn out engagement that leaves me stranded for > > acceleration for about a second, second-and-a-half. Might there be an issue > > with the slave not releasing soon enough? This was a new slave 3 years > > ago. If it helps, the first clutch I installed during the ground up > > wouldn't engage at all, so I had to pull the tranny and swap out for the > > original clutch and pressure plate. Thoughts? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) > > New Hampshire > Terry, > > Did you ever figure out why the new clutch didnt work? > > Could be not enough free play between the pushrod and slave as Randall > mentioned. > > I take it the clutch fork, pin and throwout are working with ease when you had > the trans out? > > I guess it is possible the drive plate is binding but that would mean either > the shaft is worn or the plate is worn where it runs over the shaft. > > When you install the pressure plate you should see a sizeable compression as > you tighten the bolts. This is the "pressure" that is released when you > depress the clutch. > > Another possibility is the slave piston could be binding as well. Insure good > condition and also check the external return spring for correct installation. > > I think the push rod should be mounted in the center hole of the fork shaft. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 16:28:00 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 22:28:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator Message-ID: <090620082228.6032.48C303F0000A34880000179022165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> ...So Geo, how about a GPA that runs on an AAA battery or two???? Get the best of both worlds???? -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Geo Hahn" > Wow, these things seem to be popular... but in a TR3 that still has a > generator, points and crankhole in the radiator, anything more > complicated than a paper map would seem out of place. > > I carry two maps for each state I will be in, one a current AAA and > the other a pre-interstate map from the 50s. > > Geo > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From pcaffrey at deltacollege.edu Sat Sep 6 16:31:43 2008 From: pcaffrey at deltacollege.edu (Pat Caffrey) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 15:31:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade Message-ID: <28406311.480721220740303817.JavaMail.root@hermes.deltacollege.edu> Hello, I'm having an engine rebuild on my 1967 TR4A and am considering upgrading the pistons to either 87mm or 89mm. The car is strictly for street driving. I'd like to get more power out of the engine but fear 89mm may be too much. Still, 89mm is only 3mm bigger than the stock 86mm pistons. Any thoughts on which direction I should go? 87mm or 89mm? Thank you, Pat From auprichard at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 17:22:22 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 19:22:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade In-Reply-To: <28406311.480721220740303817.JavaMail.root@hermes.deltacollege.edu> References: <28406311.480721220740303817.JavaMail.root@hermes.deltacollege.edu> Message-ID: <31C1D59C5CED422ABDD900B38DEFF791@DCH6RFC1> By too much you mean something downstream will fail as the result of the additional HP ? I put 89s in my TR3a with a slightly modified cam, but otherwise all is standard and I have had 4 years of trouble-free fun. Someone much smarter than me can probably tell you how that 3mm translates: the closest I cam come is to inform the group that blood flow to an organ (in most or our cases the coronary arteries supplying the heart is the most relevant) is related to the radius of the artery to the fourth power. If the same holds true in the internal combustion engine, that 3mm may translate into a lot of additional horses. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pat Caffrey Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 6:32 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade Hello, I'm having an engine rebuild on my 1967 TR4A and am considering upgrading the pistons to either 87mm or 89mm. The car is strictly for street driving. I'd like to get more power out of the engine but fear 89mm may be too much. Still, 89mm is only 3mm bigger than the stock 86mm pistons. Any thoughts on which direction I should go? 87mm or 89mm? Thank you, Pat This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sat Sep 6 17:50:34 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 16:50:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator In-Reply-To: <090620082223.27219.48C302EE000AD28C00006A5322165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <090620082223.27219.48C302EE000AD28C00006A5322165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <04FA7FFF2DC2429190B5AB83120EA830@newcomputer> Do like I did and get some progressive bifocals with the transition lenses. That way you have one pair of glasses that you can wear in all conditions. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 3:24 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] GPS Navigator Embarrassingly revealing question here: Can you read the screen while you're driving ...ahem... without putting you your reading glasses? Terry Smith New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > For Father's Day, my wife got me the Garmin Nuvi 350 which sells for $199 at > Amazon with free shipping. She read every portable GPS review she could find > including good old Consumer Reports. Whether you love or hate Consumer > Reports, they're doing GPS units on a regular basis now and they do a good > job of explaining features so you can decide what you need. For her it came > down to Garmin or TomTom and Garmin won based on the Amazon delivered price. > > We have built-in navigation in both of our "other" cars so I was interested > to see how the portable unit would compare. It's scary good. Maps on the > 3.5" widescreen are clear and easily readable, satellite acquisition is very > fast, voice directions are loud enough and the re-routing function is very > fast. One feature I love is the screen that shows you: current speed, > overall avg speed, moving avg speed, maximum speed, total trip time, moving > time, stopped time, trip distance covered and trip distance remaining. So > you can go between that screen and the actual map screen while your > traveling. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 17:51:34 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 16:51:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade In-Reply-To: <31C1D59C5CED422ABDD900B38DEFF791@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <20080906235135.QZDN12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > the closest I cam come is to inform the group that blood flow > to an organ (in most or our cases the coronary arteries > supplying the heart is the most > relevant) is related to the radius of the artery to the > fourth power. Wow, that's wild! How does the flow get related to the square of the cross-sectional area? > If the same holds true in the internal > combustion engine, that 3mm may translate into a lot of > additional horses. Not so much. Displacement follows the square of the bore, but 89^2 is less than 5% more than 87^2; so we're only talking another 5hp or so (without other changes). At nearly $100/pony, not a lot of bang for the buck. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 17:54:29 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 19:54:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jack Drew's tribute run tonight Message-ID: <003a01c9107b$e6c769a0$fd943b44@DCS78M81> Am I right that at 8:30 pm EST was the time to run to redline for 20 sec. or drive our cars as a tribute to Jack Drews? I thought so and it's a nice evening in Central Florida so it's going to happen -- at least in DeBary. What a great guy Jack was and what wonderful memories I have of time spent with him Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 18:07:41 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 17:07:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage In-Reply-To: <090620082207.25436.48C2FF27000A514A0000635C22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080907000741.QQUH846.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Have checked and rechecked the adjustment for > the proper free play. Does the return spring always pull the slave piston home promptly? > In terms of the clutch, I frankly don't understand the > operational mechanics that well. For the clutch to engage, the pressure plate clamps the friction plate against the flywheel. Since the friction plate is attached to the gearbox input shaft, while the flywheel and pressure plate are attached to the crankshaft, this creates the connection to transmit power. The big springs inside the pressure plate housing are what force the PP against the flywheel. Then to disengage, the fork and TOB carrier force the TOB against the levers in the PP housing, which in turn lift the pressure plate away from the flywheel and allow the friction plate to spin freely. > Did check for a broken > spring on the pressure and clutch plates, couldn't find one. The springs on the friction plate are only to help reduce shock when engaging the clutch. It would still transmit power without them. But when you install the PP assembly to the flywheel, the PP should come up against the friction plate well before the housing contacts the flywheel. This is the part where the book mentions to tighten the bolts diagonally, one turn at a time, to avoid distorting the housing. > Used a pilot spline and am pretty sure the thing was lined up > as supposed to be. If not, you wouldn't have been able to install the gearbox. The friction plate gets realigned every time you operate the clutch anyway. > ISTR that there are grease fittings for the fork area that one > has to be careful not to overgrease, or risk something of the > type of symptom I'm experiencing? I think I was careful but > who knows when you can't see it. Would spraying brake > cleaner through the access panel with the clutch pedal > depressed clean any film? I think it's both very unlikely that is the problem, and that you could improve anything by doing so. BTW, are these all stock TR3 components, including the gearbox? Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 18:24:57 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 17:24:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] GPS Navigator In-Reply-To: <04FA7FFF2DC2429190B5AB83120EA830@newcomputer> Message-ID: <20080907002458.DIRR21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Do like I did and get some progressive bifocals with the > transition lenses. Or even the old fashioned kind like I had to get, so I could read the gauges! Randall From peterara at msn.com Sat Sep 6 19:00:44 2008 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 18:00:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] loss of power - follow up Message-ID: As you may recall, last weekend I posted a problem of loss of power at full throttle. The key element being that the problem would heal - correct itself - and only occur every 3 months or so. I received many suggestions, some of which I had to pass on because they would not lend themselves to "healing." I did get a suggestion from Fred Thomas, thanx Fred, to check my floats for hanging up. Evidently his Ford model A club has had problems with current gas formulations. Well, I pulled the carbs today. The floats were not hanging up, but then the car in in remission. But when the float bowls dried, at the bottom was a brown powderish coating, that was not visible when the bowls had fuel in them or were still damp with fuel. I cleaned it out with carb cleaner spray and cleaned the float pivots in a similar fashion. Maybe this "powder" was building on the pivots and occasionally hanging them up? then a vibration or something freeing them. Anyway, I'll keep you posted on future developments. Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 19:03:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 18:03:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 Message-ID: <20080907010355.FCBL9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Can anyone recommend a source for a tubular header for a Mk I GT6? I'm aware of the SS offerings from SpitBits and Rimmers, but the prices are a bit dear. Any other options would be appreciated. (Not for me, trying to help someone else.) Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Sep 6 19:24:05 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 21:24:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 In-Reply-To: <20080907010355.FCBL9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <48C2F4F5.31139.26BC44B2@localhost> On 6 Sep 2008 at 18:03, Randall wrote: > Can anyone recommend a source for a tubular header for a Mk I GT6? I have what I think is an original GT6 Mk I intake. But maybe you mean exhaust. Anyway, the original intake not only isn't, like, totally tubular, man, it isn't tubular at all. Not at all. But if anyone wants it... And what for you want a GT6 header? You building up something special? Does a GT6 motor fit in the Stag? Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 19:41:51 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2008 01:41:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage Message-ID: <090720080141.22771.48C3315E000EC58F000058F322165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Does the return spring always pull the slave piston home promptly? Yes, it does. But how quickly I can't determine under the car, since the symptom is only noticeable under spirited driving. > But when you install the PP assembly to the flywheel, the PP should come up > against the friction plate well before the housing contacts the flywheel. > This is the part where the book mentions to tighten the bolts diagonally, > one turn at a time, to avoid distorting the housing. Yes, this is the way it went during installation. > BTW, are these all stock TR3 components, including the gearbox? Yes, they're all stock. Type A with overdrive. Engaging OD does not slip, though I always use the clutch and so then it does. The slave and MC are all new from TRF (well, new three years ago). I'll give the Pedal assembly a look. Then again, I've had enough new parts on this that didn't last long, it could be the MC or slave. From fishplate at charter.net Sat Sep 6 19:51:34 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 21:51:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage In-Reply-To: <090620080018.8772.48C1CC40000503E40000224422165514069C9D97 9D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <090620080018.8772.48C1CC40000503E40000224422165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080907015054.IJYA10008.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 08:18 PM 9/5/2008, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: >But...what's happening is, during "spirited" shifting, at high rev >and quick clutch release, I don't get a hard slam from the clutch, >but rather a slow, drawn out engagement that leaves me stranded for >acceleration for about a second, second-and-a-half. How I Do It: When I suspect the pressure plate is weak, I go out in a parking lot with no nearby obstructions. While stopped, I apply the parking brake and put the car in fourth gear. Give it a little throttle (about 1000 or 1500 rpm) and let the clutch out slowly. If the car stalls, the clutch is good. If it happily purrs, the clutch is most likely slipping. this will, of course, put a huge strain on your clutch, If you choose to do this, pay attention to what is happening... Clutch slippage can be due to weak springs on the pressure plate or worn linings on the driven disc; also oil leaking from the rear main engine oil seal or transmission input shaft seal can get on the lining. But of course, oil leakage never happens in a Triumph... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 20:11:08 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 19:11:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Jack Drew's tribute run tonight In-Reply-To: <003a01c9107b$e6c769a0$fd943b44@DCS78M81> References: <003a01c9107b$e6c769a0$fd943b44@DCS78M81> Message-ID: Well it happened here in Wallace, a run down Camanche Parkway, redline in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, ran out of room for 4th, and 5th would have been unabtainable ... Thanks Uncle Jack for all the years of inspiration ... > > FANSHER wrote:Am I right that at 8:30 pm EST was the time to run to >redline for 20 sec. or >drive our cars as a tribute to Jack Drews? >I thought so and it's a nice evening in Central Florida so it's going to >happen -- at least in DeBary. >What a great guy Jack was and what wonderful memories I have of time spent >with him >Tom -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From auprichard at comcast.net Sat Sep 6 20:13:53 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 22:13:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade In-Reply-To: <20080906235135.QZDN12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <31C1D59C5CED422ABDD900B38DEFF791@DCH6RFC1> <20080906235135.QZDN12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <1DB1BCE8FFC44A7382194363DBDEFEB7@DCH6RFC1> Randall: How come I knew you'd pick up on this ? I guess one answer is that the human body is a little more complicated than our beloved TRs, and flow to an organ also depends on cardiac output, blood pressure and the degree by which the resistance vessels (arteries) can dilate, eg during exercise. But the bottom line is, very small improvements in artery diameter can result in very meaningful improvements in perfusion. So stopping smoking and taking Lipitor can result in many more years driving our cars. Andrew P.S. I may have developed Lipitor, but I do not get any royalties......... -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:52 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade > the closest I cam come is to inform the group that blood flow > to an organ (in most or our cases the coronary arteries > supplying the heart is the most > relevant) is related to the radius of the artery to the > fourth power. Wow, that's wild! How does the flow get related to the square of the cross-sectional area? > If the same holds true in the internal > combustion engine, that 3mm may translate into a lot of > additional horses. Not so much. Displacement follows the square of the bore, but 89^2 is less than 5% more than 87^2; so we're only talking another 5hp or so (without other changes). At nearly $100/pony, not a lot of bang for the buck. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 21:29:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 20:29:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade In-Reply-To: <1DB1BCE8FFC44A7382194363DBDEFEB7@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <20080907032910.GGIM27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > But the bottom line is, very small improvements in > artery diameter can result in very meaningful improvements in > perfusion. Arnold was kind enough to send me the key phrase "Poiseuille's law". It's apparently pretty standard fluif dynamics. The key point of the derivation is that the fluid is viscous and sticks to the walls of the pipe (blood vessel), meaning the layer immediately next to the wall remains stationary and the adjoining layer drags against it. Thanks to all, Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 21:50:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 20:50:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Clutch slippage In-Reply-To: <090720080141.22771.48C3315E000EC58F000058F322165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080907035006.TAAC12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Yes, it does. But how quickly I can't determine under the > car, since the symptom is only noticeable under spirited driving. That shouldn't be an issue, since the springs in the PP will push it back much quicker than the return spring will. I was just thinking maybe you were managing to get the slave "pumped up", which can take some time to flow through the relatively small diameter tubing and openings. And if the slave moves freely enough for the return spring to push it home, then it's not likely your problem is binding within the slave. > I'll give the Pedal assembly a look. Then again, I've had > enough new parts on this that didn't last long, it could be > the MC or slave. I still think the most likely suspect (outside the bellhousing anyway) is the flexible line. Although not common, the inner lining can break in such a way that it sometimes restricts fluid flow one way, like a check valve. Assuming of course your clutch isn't simply worn out and slipping as Jeff suggests. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 6 21:59:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 20:59:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 In-Reply-To: <48C2F4F5.31139.26BC44B2@localhost> Message-ID: <20080907035944.GLDQ27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > On 6 Sep 2008 at 18:03, Randall wrote: > > > Can anyone recommend a source for a tubular header for a Mk I GT6? Jim replied: > I have what I think is an original GT6 Mk I intake. But > maybe you mean exhaust. Yes, I meant tubular exhaust header (manifold). > And what for you want a GT6 header? You building up > something special? Does a GT6 motor fit in the Stag? I've actually heard they fit quite well (though the 2.5L TR6 motor is likely a better choice and fits just as well). But it was not I seeking the GT6 header, I was only playing Cyrano for a friend not on the list. If I were interested in upgrading the Stag, I'd be looking for something with a bit more power than the stock 3.0 SOHC V8; like maybe a 4.9 Rover or something. But at least at the moment, I'm not interested. Randall From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 7 00:24:10 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 23:24:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <006701c910b2$57680df0$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Well, I did go with the 87mm upgrade when I rebuilt my 4a engine last year, but not sure it was worth the extra $$$. It is a bit self defeating - the larger the piston, the more mass; the more mass, the less revs. And we all know revs = fun! Ever see the inside of a Ferrari engine? The pistons are about 50mm, but they get some serious revs and HP out of those things. 'course there's lots of other stuff that helps too. Anyway, I'd say if I were to do it over again I'd spend the money else where... like maybe overdrive! :-) I'm sure Randall will have some good words of wisdom on this subject... Brian '67 TR4a Just won 1st place in my class at the Portland All British Field Meet! Time to sell??? ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 15:31:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Pat Caffrey Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <28406311.480721220740303817.JavaMail.root at hermes.deltacollege.edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello, I'm having an engine rebuild on my 1967 TR4A and am considering upgrading the pistons to either 87mm or 89mm. The car is strictly for street driving. I'd like to get more power out of the engine but fear 89mm may be too much. Still, 89mm is only 3mm bigger than the stock 86mm pistons. Any thoughts on which direction I should go? 87mm or 89mm? Thank you, Pat From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 7 00:48:42 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 02:48:42 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade Message-ID: In a message dated 9/6/08 11:30:42 PM, 308gtsi at roadrunner.com writes: > Well, I did go with the 87mm upgrade when I rebuilt my 4a engine last year, > but not sure it was worth the extra $$$. It is a bit self defeating - the > larger the piston, the more mass; the more mass, the less revs. And we all > know revs = fun! Ever see the inside of a Ferrari engine? The pistons are > about 50mm, but they get some serious revs and HP out of those things. > 'course there's lots of other stuff that helps too. > > Anyway, I'd say if I were to do it over again I'd spend the money else > where... like maybe overdrive! :-) > > > I'm sure Randall will have some good words of wisdom on this subject... > > Brian > '67 TR4a > Just won 1st place in my class at the Portland All British Field Meet! Time > to sell??? > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 15:31:43 -0700 (PDT) > From: Pat Caffrey > Subject: [TR] TR4A Piston Upgrade > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: > <28406311.480721220740303817.JavaMail.root at hermes.deltacollege.edu> > Brian, When I rebuilt my TRA several years ago, I bored to 90mm and had pistons made. THAT was a little pricey to. Wit a little bigger cam etc it scoots right along. I would probably not do it today because it is a waste of mony. It goes very well, but sounds just like my neighbors Harley at idle. I don't really care if my 0-60 time is any better as I'm not racing it. You are on the mark on pistons size though-the torqu is related to piston diameter (area) but the RPM is going to be affected more by the inertia pf the rotating mass which is really a diameter cubed function (piston mass) qhich s why those little bitty v16s do so well. Best. MIke Moore (I would probagly go with 83mm today ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From mgodley at tiac.net Sun Sep 7 07:18:31 2008 From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 09:18:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Pistons In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03DDE0CF726C40A2B20E92EFC114A2A2@MichaelPC> Andrew, I have the 87MM in my 4A, improved performance and no problems. My thought on the 89MM is that they are expensive, the last time I looked they were hundreds more that the 87mm. Might to better to go with 87mm and spend the extra $$ on headers, exhaust or some other performance improvements....others on the board are more knowledgeable on these matters...but it's an interesting question...let us know what you decide to do. Mike Godley 65TR4A "I'm having an engine rebuild on my 1967 TR4A and am considering upgrading the pistons to either 87mm or 89mm. The car is strictly for street driving. I'd like to get more power out of the engine but fear 89mm may be too much" ************* From racegt6 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 7 08:10:31 2008 From: racegt6 at yahoo.com (Charlie Schlismann) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 07:10:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 In-Reply-To: <20080907010355.FCBL9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <560305.75819.qm@web30805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- On Sat, 9/6/08, Randall wrote: > Can anyone recommend a source for a tubular header for a Mk > I GT6? > > I'm aware of the SS offerings from SpitBits and > Rimmers, but the prices are > a bit dear. Any other options would be appreciated. > > (Not for me, trying to help someone else.) > > Randall JC Whitney item# ZX281003 is Dorman replacement for a stock manifold. $170.00. Kirk Racing Products (Mt Olive,AL) used to and probably still can make these headers. No idea of $$ but they used to be reasonable. Charlie #71 MiDiv F500 From geo at ohio.net Sun Sep 7 09:12:20 2008 From: geo at ohio.net (geo) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 11:12:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 In-Reply-To: <560305.75819.qm@web30805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <560305.75819.qm@web30805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: i have one that i will sell for 220...... the only difference between mki and the rest is the manifold ports are straight across on the mk1 and are offset up and down on all the other gt-6's. this is the real thing is chrome, new and collects in a small way to clear the frame..... let me know geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Charlie Schlismann" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 10:10 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 > --- On Sat, 9/6/08, Randall wrote: > >> Can anyone recommend a source for a tubular header for a Mk >> I GT6? >> >> I'm aware of the SS offerings from SpitBits and >> Rimmers, but the prices are >> a bit dear. Any other options would be appreciated. >> >> (Not for me, trying to help someone else.) >> >> Randall > > > > JC Whitney item# ZX281003 is Dorman replacement for a stock manifold. > $170.00. > > Kirk Racing Products (Mt Olive,AL) used to and probably still can make > these headers. No idea of $$ but they used to be reasonable. > > Charlie > > #71 MiDiv F500 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as geo at ohio.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dspeed at 4speeds.net Sun Sep 7 10:57:46 2008 From: dspeed at 4speeds.net (Dave Speed) Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2008 10:57:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Lenovo Site Access Message-ID: <20080907165751.16864855CD4@mtac3.warpdrive.net> Is anybody else having trouble accessing the site, or is it my ISP? I've been waiting for > 2 min for the T series page to load. Have tried resets at al. Same deal yesterday. Dave [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.17/1657 - Release Date: 9/6/2008 8:07 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 7 11:07:21 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 10:07:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 In-Reply-To: <560305.75819.qm@web30805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080907170721.WVDT846.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > JC Whitney item# ZX281003 is Dorman replacement for a stock > manifold. $170.00. Just curious, Charlie, do you have first-hand knowledge that this listing is correct? I've noticed that JCW's website has a habit of listing one number for all cars, that turns out to not service all cars. For example, if you search for GT6 headers, it also comes up with Patriot "Tight Tuck" headers; but then when you try to order, it asks you to pick one from a list that includes only Chevies and Fords. For another example, they also claim item ZX281003 will fit a 1982 GT6 ... > Kirk Racing Products (Mt Olive,AL) used to and probably still > can make these headers. No idea of $$ but they used to be > reasonable. Thanks, I'll pass that along. Randall From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Sep 6 11:26:45 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 12:26:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 with XR700 Message-ID: <380-22008966172645968@earthlink.net> While investigating a low speed ignition stumble on my TR6, which turned out to be the spring loaded carbon center brush in the distributor cap had given up, I see that the optical pick-up on my Crane Cams Fireball XR700 unit has three wires that exit where the flexible lead from the original points was. I am not happy that when the vacuum unit operates those wires drag through the opening, restricting the motion. What is the preferred method to route these wires? The PO did not have a working vacuum unit and this was not an issue with him when the XR700 was installed. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Sep 6 11:29:06 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 12:29:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leaky TR6 Message-ID: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net> Yesterday, while driving home from a Triumph event, I was forced to put the TR6s top up during a heavy rain. I now have two more questions. When I installed the new top on the TR6, I left the windshield header to soft top rubber weather strip off because I was unsure which way the lip was supposed to face. I sure now know the purpose of the seal. What direction does the lip go? With the top up, I get engine fumes coming up through the gear shift boot. Is there a way to seal that area that will keep the fumes from the interior of the car? Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 7 11:47:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 10:47:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 with XR700 In-Reply-To: <380-22008966172645968@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080907174712.KZIK9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > I am not happy that when the vacuum unit operates those > wires drag through the opening, restricting the motion. Well, the original 73 dizzy only had vacuum retard anyway, so no big deal if it doesn't move all the way. > What is the preferred method to route these wires? My suggestion is to leave enough wire inside the dizzy so the wire can flex, instead of pushing through the opening. That will still add some resistance to point plate movement, but it shouldn't be enough to notice (as it's already pretty stiff). Of course, that also means that eventually the wires will break from flexing. The factory point wire was a special very flexible type of wire designed for this sort of service, but the Crane wires do not appear to be. Hopefully, "eventually" will be long enough down the road that it won't matter. Randall From L1J1S at aol.com Sun Sep 7 13:15:27 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 15:15:27 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 question Message-ID: hey guys, talking to a buddy of mine who has a tr3-a. he just finished restoring his car, but has come across another chassis that he would like to switch out to put into his car. what would be entailed in doing so? i have come up with disconnecting the brake/clutch lines, fuel line. harness into engine compartment, speedo/tach cables, oil line to gauge. can anyone think of anything elas? also his body is beautiful, in attempting to remove the body from the present chassis to fit onto the new chassis, do you think any structural damage will happen? also, what time frame is he looking at? larry schwartz **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Sep 7 13:27:08 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 15:27:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200809071527.08613.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 07 September 2008 15:15:27 L1J1S at aol.com wrote: > hey guys, talking to a buddy of mine who has a tr3-a. he just finished > restoring his car, but has come across another chassis that he would like > to switch out to put into his car. what would be entailed in doing so? i > have come up with disconnecting the brake/clutch lines, fuel line. harness > into engine compartment, speedo/tach cables, oil line to gauge. can anyone > think of anything elas? also his body is beautiful, in attempting to remove > the body from the present chassis to fit onto the new chassis, do you > think any structural damage will happen? also, what time frame is he > looking at? larry schwartz > Larry, Add to your list, removing the engine / transmission which means removing the front apron, radiator, exhaust headpipe, bumpers and braces, etc. Removing the steering column. Transmission cover, emergency brake. Also as a precaution the body between the doors should be re-enforced before the body is lifted off the frame. Then you have to go and remove all the body - frame bolts which means removing at least the seats and the carpets. What is wrong with the current frame? Is it damaged, rusty? This is not usually attempted with a finished body. This is a major project and if the body is already completed the risk is large to some scratching or worse dents. I would look for another car to restore that needs a good frame or try to sell the frame. Bob From L1J1S at aol.com Sun Sep 7 14:02:25 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 16:02:25 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 w/ red wire wheels Message-ID: list, is anyone running a tr3 with red wire wheels? if one is can they please send me a picture of the car to me off list. larry schwartz **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Sep 7 14:36:17 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 20:36:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] Vapor lock? Message-ID: A few weeks ago there was a thread on vapor lock. I am unclear as to where this will occur. Does it happen only in the fuel pump or can it occur in the lines too? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From diggle at clear.net.nz Sun Sep 7 14:42:23 2008 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 08:42:23 +1200 Subject: [TR] Oil leaks Message-ID: <8B73292E357644D5994948F89A6246DD@athlon> Its time to refloor my garage and put in shelving etc. However theres no point until I fix my leaks. Everything that holds oil leaks. My diff, gearbox with overdrive and engine are the culprits. What kind of engine seals give the best result. Browsing Moss Europes site I see that there are two types, a new tyrpe with different seals and the the standard ones. How do I best minimise my leaks. Jim and his TR that marks its spot. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 7 15:00:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 14:00:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Vapor lock? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080907210011.XHAV26261.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > A few weeks ago there was a thread on vapor lock. I am > unclear as to where this will occur. Does it happen only in > the fuel pump or can it occur in the lines too? Kind of depends on your definitions, Tom. As I learned it, "vapor lock" is a fuel pump problem, basically that the pump won't move fuel when it's full of fuel vapor instead of liquid fuel. Of course, if the fuel boils (turns into vapor) in the line ahead of the pump, then the vapor will eventually be sucked into the pump to potentially cause vapor lock. But, lots of folks describe any kind of fuel boiling/vapor problem as "vapor lock", including fuel boiling in the float bowls, jets or even in the lines after the fuel pump. The major distinction, as I see it, is that all these problems cause the mixture to go way rich (too much fuel in the cylinders); while "real" vapor lock causes lean mixture (no fuel to the cylinders). I'll add that in 40 years of futzing around with old cars, I have never seen anything I believe to be vapor lock. All of my problems with fuel pumps that don't pump have turned out to be other issues, like crud in the valve or line, stuck float valves, etc. Fuel boiling in the bowls and jets (percolation) has been much more common in my experience. Randall From thomasb at queensu.ca Sun Sep 7 16:55:09 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2008 18:55:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 w/ red wire wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0K6U00JSLL04RZ60@mta02.its.queensu.ca> Hi Larry, At 04:02 PM 2008-09-07, you wrote: >list, is anyone running a tr3 with red wire wheels? if one is can they >please send me a picture of the car to me off list. larry schwartz The first TRA meet we attended was in Hershey Pa in 1983 and a white TR3A with red wire wheels was there. I "think" there may be a picture or two in an old album - this was in pre-digital days! Let me know if you don't get any decent pics and I'll have a go at trying to locate the picture. It's hard to believe that was 25 years ago! Cheers, Brian Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point work: 613-533-2228 R R 1 fax: 613-385-1948 Wolfe Island, Ontario home: 613-385-1947 K0H 2Y0 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Sep 7 17:35:33 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 16:35:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 question In-Reply-To: <200809071527.08613.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200809071527.08613.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809071635y5c962d5fwc455679550011b0b@mail.gmail.com> To build the car, didn't Standard just 'drop' a completed body onto a frame that had the radiator, engine, gearbox, etc. already in place? I'm not saying it's easy or that it's wise, but from photos I've seen of the S-T assembly line it would seem to be possible. Geo On 9/7/08, Bob wrote: > Add to your list, removing the engine / transmission which means removing > the > front apron, radiator, exhaust headpipe, bumpers and braces, etc. Removing > the steering column. Transmission cover, emergency brake. > Also as a precaution the body between the doors should be re-enforced before > the body is lifted off the frame. From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sun Sep 7 18:41:34 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 20:41:34 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2008 7:35:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ahwahnee18 at gmail.com writes: To build the car, didn't Standard just 'drop' a completed body onto a frame that had the radiator, engine, gearbox, etc. already in place? I'm not saying it's easy or that it's wise, but from photos I've seen of the S-T assembly line it would seem to be possible. ==AM== Yeah, that's pretty much exactly what they did. Similar with the TR4, where I believe bodies were painted and trimmed elsewhere (Liverpool?) and then brought to Coventry to be united with fully equipped chassis. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 7 18:52:20 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 20:52:20 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 with XR700 Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2008 12:27:06 PM Central Daylight Time, ggelhar at earthlink.net writes: > While investigating a low speed ignition stumble on my TR6, which turned > out to be the spring loaded carbon center brush in the distributor cap had > given up, I see that the optical pick-up on my Crane Cams Fireball XR700 > unit has three wires that exit where the flexible lead from the original > points was. I am not happy that when the vacuum unit operates those wires > drag through the opening, restricting the motion. > > What is the preferred method to route these wires? The PO did not have a > working vacuum unit and this was not an issue with him when the XR700 was > installed. > Greg, when I installed my XR700 I put a loop of wire inside the distributor. The loop will "roll" a bit as the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate. 10 years have passed since then and I have had no ignition issues with the car. I also crafted a "plug" for the exit hole out of some rubber stock I had. This plug fits the opening as the old nylon piece did with a slot for the wires which are held somewhat secure. This plug fits the opening snuggly keeping large amounts of water out. (I wouldn't call the distributor "sealed" but it keeps the cockroaches out) Dave From racegt6 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 7 19:04:02 2008 From: racegt6 at yahoo.com (Charlie Schlismann) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 18:04:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 In-Reply-To: <20080907170721.WVDT846.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <632530.4692.qm@web30805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > Just curious, Charlie, do you have first-hand knowledge > that this listing is > correct? > > I've noticed that JCW's website has a habit of > listing one number for all > cars, that turns out to not service all cars. For example, > if you search > for GT6 headers, it also comes up with Patriot "Tight > Tuck" headers; but > then when you try to order, it asks you to pick one from a > list that > includes only Chevies and Fords. For another example, they > also claim item > ZX281003 will fit a 1982 GT6 ... Absolutely zero first hand experience other than back in the day, when JC Whitney was Warshawsky and they were located in Chicago's China Town, they stocked more than a few Triumph items. I still have the Monza headers and exhaust on my TR6 that I bought from them. I could get nearly everything for the GT6 except the headers-they always had the MKI in stock but nothing newer. Reflexively, I checked them first. I can say that I've had first hand experience w/Triumph Tune on the MKII and III can only say that their headers are crap to the degree that the Monza is jewelry in comparison!!! I'd keep my money state-side. This was a not an uncommon item way back then and I would not be surprised if a few of the pipe guys out there still have the jigs to make one up. Good luck, Charlie From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 7 19:09:51 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 21:09:51 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2008 2:15:59 PM Central Daylight Time, L1J1S at aol.com writes: > hey guys, talking to a buddy of mine who has a tr3-a. he just finished > restoring his car, but has come across another chassis that he would like to > > switch out to put into his car. what would be entailed in doing so? i have > come up > with disconnecting the brake/clutch lines, fuel line. harness into engine > compartment, speedo/tach cables, oil line to gauge. can anyone think of > anything elas? also his body is beautiful, in attempting to remove the body > from the > present chassis to fit onto the new chassis, do you think any structural > damage will happen? also, what time frame is he looking at? larry schwartz > Only if you drop it. Is the other chassis complete? I mean suspension and drive train. If he plans on using anything from his current chassis it may be most expedient to pull the body off, set it down somewhere and and swap the components with the body out of the way. This means you need a secure place to set it during this process. Bracing the door openings is important but the doors do a pretty good job of that. The body, totally stripped, is an easy two man job. If you leave on the fenders, hood, seats, windshield, etc, it becomes more difficult and the more important bracing the doors becomes. Also, you will have to set the door gaps by shimming the mounting points all over again since there will be minor variations in frame dimensions. Cheers Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 7 19:18:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 18:18:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Header for Mk I GT6 In-Reply-To: <632530.4692.qm@web30805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080908011810.DFXR12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Absolutely zero first hand experience other than back in the > day, when JC Whitney was Warshawsky and they were located in > Chicago's China Town, Is Warshawsky's gone, then? I shopped there more than a few times myself; they used to even carry TR3 parts like liner sets & such. But that was a long time ago. (Answering my own question) I guess Warshawsky's is gone. According to Wikipedia, his son Roy retired in 91, and JCW was sold to some investment bankers in 2002. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JC_Whitney Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 7 19:22:18 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 21:22:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Oil leaks Message-ID: In a message dated 9/7/2008 3:42:38 PM Central Daylight Time, diggle at clear.net.nz writes: > Everything that holds oil leaks. > My diff, gearbox with overdrive and engine are the culprits. > What kind of engine seals give the best result. Browsing Moss Europes site I > see that there are two types, a new tyrpe with different seals and the the > standard ones. > How do I best minimise my leaks. > The two culprits are the dried up seals and the rotating surfaces upon which they ride. Replacing the seals but not fixing the grooved surfaces against which they are supposed to seal will result in short term results. There is one seal manufacturer here in the states that makes a product just for this problem. Chicago Rawhide makes a product they call SpeediSleev(R) that is a stainless steel sleeve that is a tight fit over the original part and provides a fresh, smooth surface for the seal. There may be a manufacturer in your county that does the same thing. Or a distributor that carries this or a similar product. Anectdotal evidence: I put fresh seals in the diff of my TR6. Although I initially had good results, the pinion started leaking soon thereafter. Some 8 - 10 years later I had pulled the diff again (for some other reason) and took the opportunity to sleeve the pinion flange. Result: even with the 10 year old seal that had bee leaking before the leak stopped. They may not have sleeves for all the applications you have but for those you do have I recommend these. BTW, if you have a TR6 the front crank seal works against a distance piece. A new distance piece is cheaper than the sleeve so get one of those instead. Cheers Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 7 21:10:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 20:10:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil leaks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080908031016.QTYG21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > They may not have sleeves for all the applications you have > but for those you do have I recommend these. I'll ditto Dave's recommendation. For the Stag front pulley, they didn't have an application listed, but did have a sleeve that was just slightly too large. So I smeared a little Loctite "circular parts mount" inside, and it worked perfectly. Also good to know that other makers offer similar products, but sometime not in all the sizes that CR does. One local NAPA store carries only Fel-Pro brand (but didn't tell me that until I specifically asked), which didn't have one to fit the TR3 front pulley. But another local NAPA store carried the genuine Chicago Rawhide line, and were able to get the right one in a few days. Randall From lee at automate-it.com Sun Sep 7 23:18:13 2008 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 00:18:13 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] The TR6 rear-end clunk In-Reply-To: <20080902125126.00A5418764C@autox.team.net> References: <20080902125126.00A5418764C@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <51045.98.200.63.37.1220851093.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Last year I picked up my second TR6 ('74) and have been using it as my driver. Good, not great condition, but runs great and looks really great from 20 feet. I've got a pretty substantial clunk when I apply power in reverse. So today I climbed underneath and checked out the differential mountings. Looks like the P.O. has already been there, new rubber mounts and no obvious cracks. The case looks like it was cleaned and maybe painted within the last thousand miles. So I started moving things around by hand (rear wheels in the air i.e. jackstands rear and wheels chocks front, parking brake off). Here's what I found, and my questions: 1. So how much backlash should there be in the diff? I.e. rotate one wheel, other one fixed, then reverse direction - I've got maybe 5 degrees of play here. 2. What about the u-joints? One axle has a wee bit of play in the u-joints - should they be almost completely without lash? 3. It feels like there may be some play in the axle splines on one side - how much is allowable here? 4. If there is a problem with the diff mounts, would I be able to detect it without pulling the diff first? I've got 6 or 8 spare new u-joints, so pulling the axles out and refreshing those would be "easy" (sort-of) for starters. Note that I've got wire wheels, but I started there and see that they seem tight and without play. Thanks, Lee '74 Maple TR6 (never-ending restoration) '74 Pimento TR6 - daily driver The Woodlands, TX From thomasb at queensu.ca Mon Sep 8 05:05:34 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 07:05:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery for Negative Ground TR4A Message-ID: <0K6V00DZ8IWW0P20@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi, The battery in my TR4A is toast and it's time for a replacement. I'm finding the type 27F that is in the car is a special order. I chose 27F (12 years ago) instead of the Type 24 which I believe is the normal fitment as I could get it in black with a flat top and two "gang" vents. These I replaced with 6 OLD "round" style vents to give a period look and the LUCAS sticker applied helped to create this illusion. The 27F (and probably 24) when installed in a negative ground car has the terminals on the firewall side. I'm wondering if anyone is using a type 27 in this app? The terminals would then be on the engine side. There doesn't appear to be a problem with the hold down bar (making contact with the terminals) but I'm concerned about the positive cable mounting shorting out. I ask because type 27 is an off-the-shelf item. Opinions? Thanks, Brian Brian S. Thomas email: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Senior IT Specialist work: 613-533-2228 ITServices, Dupuis Hall fax: 613-533-2168 Queen's University home: 613-385-1947 Kingston, Ontario toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, CANADA K7L 3N6 52 Ferguson TEA20 From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 8 05:41:44 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 07:41:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Oil leaks Message-ID: <4314647A.3C33CDDC.36296DCF@cs.com> "Randall" wrote: >> They may not have sleeves for all the applications you have >> but for those you do have I recommend these. > >I'll ditto Dave's recommendation. For the Stag front pulley, they didn't >have an application listed, but did have a sleeve that was just slightly too >large. So I smeared a little Loctite "circular parts mount" inside, and it >worked perfectly. > >Also good to know that other makers offer similar products, but sometime not >in all the sizes that CR does. One local NAPA store carries only Fel-Pro >brand (but didn't tell me that until I specifically asked), which didn't >have one to fit the TR3 front pulley. But another local NAPA store carried >the genuine Chicago Rawhide line, and were able to get the right one in a >few days. > >Randall >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as dave1massey at cs.com > >http://www.team.net/archive > I hadn't considered NAPA. I always used my local industrial bearing house. The downsize is they don't keep local stock, either. They ship in from their wearhouse in Kansas City. This means two trips. But they are close by so no big deal. Dave From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Mon Sep 8 06:41:29 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 08:41:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] how they balance allow wheels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Some of the rims on our lbcs are rim centric and some our hub centric. I wish there was a lug centric machine in my area because my MGB's rims are lug centric and I have a sneaky suspicion that the Spitfire is as well. The common hub centric machine isn't much use on a lug centric rim if the centre hole is misaligned with the lugs. Mark 1973 MGBGT 1980 Spitfire 1500 Subject: Re: [TR] how they balance allow wheels >"new" balancer that actually mounts via the lug nut holes. One of these machines is what start4ed my quest to cure run out last year. I suppose they are great machines if everything about the wheel is bone stock and clean. Every time I has my wheels balanced this way the boys at Costco would tell me my wheels were bent. My wheels were set to less than 0.020 run out on a lathe and they have never hit anything. Turns out the powder coating on was also in the lug holes and misaligned them on the machine. I did go back to another place that has the center hole type machine. Best regards, Tom From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 8 07:15:24 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 09:15:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question In-Reply-To: <0K6V00DZ8IWW0P20@mta01.its.queensu.ca> References: <0K6V00DZ8IWW0P20@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Message-ID: Red letter day last Saturday. The TR3 tub (et al) came back from the body shop. Going to do some test fittings over the next couple weeks and then it goes to the next step... paint/finish. Target date for on the road is now within sight: July 1, 2009...... In the meantime - thinking about long trips and no radio. Is there some way to hook up accessories (cd/mp3) to a positive ground electrical system. Or will a 'cigarette lighter' receptacle work (doesn't seem likely in my pebble brain). Not planning on an alternator conversion. Thanks. Carl 1961 TR3 - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida From bill.anderson at windstream.net Mon Sep 8 07:55:25 2008 From: bill.anderson at windstream.net (Bill Anderson) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 09:55:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Radio on Ebay In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c911ba$8b8f66b0$a2ae3410$@anderson@windstream.net> If anyone's interested there is a original TR3 radio on Ebay: 1962 Triumph TR3 AM Radio Item number: 120299822795 3hrs left bill a. From NPaul72464 at aol.com Mon Sep 8 09:16:32 2008 From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 11:16:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question Message-ID: I use a cigarette lighter type socket in my TR3 and Healey. Be sure to buy a plastic bodied one and then just connect the red to ground and the black to a power source. I connected mine so it's always live. Helpful for charging a cell phone etc. at car shows. Only caveat is that some metal bodied devices could short out if they contact metal on the car body (like an ash tray or even the brake lever). Ned Paulsen 1958 TR3A 1960 Healey 3000 BN7 Rochester NY In a message dated 9/8/2008 9:16:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, cfmtr3a at verizon.net writes: Red letter day last Saturday. The TR3 tub (et al) came back from the body shop. Going to do some test fittings over the next couple weeks and then it goes to the next step... paint/finish. Target date for on the road is now within sight: July 1, 2009...... In the meantime - thinking about long trips and no radio. Is there some way to hook up accessories (cd/mp3) to a positive ground electrical system. Or will a 'cigarette lighter' receptacle work (doesn't seem likely in my pebble brain). Not planning on an alternator conversion. Thanks. Carl 1961 TR3 - TS81802LO Tampa, Florida This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as npaul72464 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From tr3bob at cox.net Mon Sep 8 09:56:58 2008 From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 11:56:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] intermittant rough running Message-ID: <20080908115658.HR0YZ.280044.imail@eastrmwml10> Hi fellow listers, It's been a while since I've had to rely on the wisdom of the list, but I could sure use some help now. My TR3A (TS81398LO) has been running great (for the most part) but I've had this recurring intermittant problem that's really bugging me. I'm running at 3000RPM and suddenly the car stumbles.....as if misfiring a cylinder. It mysteriously smooths out then happens again. It eventually deteriorates so that it's stumbling 80% of the time. I pull over, pull the plugs and find them a nice straw color. Fire it up again....get home and put in fresh plugs. Viola...problem fixed. 300 miles later I get the same symptoms and replace the plugs again. What gives????? I really could use your help. The plugs aren't expensive, but it's bothering me. TIA Bob Stahlbush and get to a and check the d on running on 3 cylind From Loumetelko at aol.com Mon Sep 8 10:15:34 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 12:15:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Battery for Negative Ground TR4A Message-ID: Brian: The 4A was initially equipped with the group 27 battery. Whether it was a straight 27 or the 27F I don't know. The TRA guide only states that it was a group 27. A few years ago I used the same group 27 for both my 4A and the TR2, just had to remember to flip the post locations. Is TS537 on the road yet? Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Sep 8 12:49:31 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 11:49:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Temp gauge failure Message-ID: <813159.55261.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The temperature gauge on my TR6 is the one instrument that has worked without much deviation or any failure for years - until now. The normal operating temperature usually reads slightly below the 1/2 mark, but for the past week it wouldn't go up over the 1/4 mark. Now nothing - it won't budge off the bottom. I've fiddled around behind the dash to make sure that everything is connected, and traced the wire up to the sensor near the thermostat. I think that it all seems where it's supposed to be. Any ideas? Do these things just die? I did replace the voltage stabilizer last year when it was on the fritz, but don't know if there's any connection. Thanks in advance. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 Just back from The Glen 4 nights with the wife in a tent! 850 miles r/t From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 8 13:03:23 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 14:03:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Radio on Ebay References: <000601c911ba$8b8f66b0$a2ae3410$@anderson@windstream.net> Message-ID: <002701c911e5$9203b7f0$6515a8c0@Ranteer.local> does anyone have any idea - is this an anomoly or are they really fetching that much? i have one!!! only mine says triumph on it. at those prices i'd sell it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Anderson" To: Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 8:55 AM Subject: [TR] Tr3 Radio on Ebay > If anyone's interested there is a original TR3 radio on Ebay: 1962 > Triumph > TR3 AM Radio Item number: 120299822795 > 3hrs left > > bill a. From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Sep 8 13:14:32 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:14:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Temp gauge failure Message-ID: Joe, If it died suddenly I might suspect a wiring issue but since it quietly passed away, I'd check the sensor. I'm not sure how much the resistance (i.e., how many ohms) should change but you should see some change between cold engine and normal engine. Have you tried removing the sensor lead and grounding it for a few seconds to see if you get any swing from the gauge? Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 9/8/2008 2:56:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jmerone at rocketmail.com writes: for the past week it wouldn't go up over the 1/4 mark. Now nothing - it won't budge off the bottom. **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 8 13:14:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 12:14:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Temp gauge failure In-Reply-To: <813159.55261.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <813159.55261.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <736072DDFB154920B7FDA7FCCA21986D@jdnet.deere.com> > Any ideas? As a quick test, you can remove the wire from the temperature sender and connect it to ground. That should make the gauge read full scale. > Do these things just die? They can. There is a resistance wire inside the gauge that can burn out or break. But of course it could just as easily be a broken wire or bad connection somewhere else. > I did replace the voltage stabilizer last year when it was on the > fritz, > but don't know if there's any connection. The VS does drive both the temp gauge and the fuel gauge. But that means if the problem were the VS, you'd expect to see the fuel gauge also read zero. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 8 13:20:03 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 12:20:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr3 Radio on Ebay In-Reply-To: <002701c911e5$9203b7f0$6515a8c0@Ranteer.local> References: <000601c911ba$8b8f66b0$a2ae3410$@anderson@windstream.net> <002701c911e5$9203b7f0$6515a8c0@Ranteer.local> Message-ID: <9640A4F1EBB94A62A02C9E4EC8A7B18F@jdnet.deere.com> > does anyone have any idea - is this an anomoly or are they really fetching > that much? Don't know, but they are pretty scarce. Especially the Smiths Radiomobile, since they were not actually original to TRs delivered to North America. Cars built for the US didn't get factory-installed radios, and the dealers put in other brands (with Triumph badges). Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 8 15:03:12 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 14:03:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0809081403v1a0cb820ga8c35f82c1ea7ef9@mail.gmail.com> I, too, have cigarette lighters (accessory outlets) in my + earth TRs. I make a simple bracket out of masonite and mount them discreetly well up in the drivers side footwell. Mine are fused with a separate fuse which I think is a very good thing to do, especially in light of the possibilty of a short to ground if a metal-bodied accessory contacts the car. From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon Sep 8 15:24:56 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 17:24:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question References: <7bb181af0809081403v1a0cb820ga8c35f82c1ea7ef9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000f01c911f9$576b79c0$ed457247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Dan Masters installed a lighter in my "3", mounting it off the side of the dash support bracket, works just great, yes it's fused for the reasons listed by Geo. H and others. "FT" ========================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 5:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question > I, too, have cigarette lighters (accessory outlets) in my + earth TRs. > I make a simple bracket out of masonite and mount them discreetly > well up in the drivers side footwell. > > Mine are fused with a separate fuse which I think is a very good thing > to do, especially in light of the possibilty of a short to ground if a > metal-bodied accessory contacts the car. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Sep 8 15:51:55 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 17:51:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] solenoid and battery hook up Message-ID: <029e01c911fd$1d1519d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Well, this weekend I had hoped to crank my TR3. As usual things took much longer than I had thought. To begin with, my starter solenoid broke at one of the small terminals and I had one that was 'generic', my mechanic friend told me, it fit an old Ford Falcon. Actually, I thought I had tried it and it worked. Anyway, the neg. from the battery (I am pos. grnd) , and the cable to the starter both got the big poles alone, seperately. (I wondered if it mattered which big pole went to the starter?). I also guess there is no connectivity between them once the car is cranked. On the stock solenoid, a small solenoid terminal runs 'off' the battery cable, so I did likewise on the Falcon solenoid. For some reason, I had 'temporairly' installed a 10amp fuse in this short wire that goes to the fuse block and attaches not far from the bottom-front of the battery box. The Falcon solenoid had the 2 small terminals labeled as "s" and "i". My Triumph also has 2 small wires: like I said, the one from the battery was fused and went to A1. I put the r&w cable wire to the "i" small terminal. I didn't know what to do with the "s" small terminal so I didn't hook anything to it, for right now. The starter did turn things when I had all the plugs out, but jumper cableing it to my Nissan didn't get it turning fast enough. I wonder if this was partly due to the length of the cables and also due to my battery? I'll be buying a battery soon, how many CCA did you say were required? I think my battery box will accomadate a battery 14" wide, 7" deep and 8" tall (which should keep it from hitting the bonnet. I had seen a VW battery with 'recessed' terminals once, that I thought might fit. I also had seen a very wide (maybe 13") battery once, that was 'short', but, proably had enough CCA. Don't you agree that 2" of clearence ought to be between battey and bonnet? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 916 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From triumphs at consolidated.net Mon Sep 8 16:26:56 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 17:26:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] rear brake cylinders TR3 Message-ID: I recall reading a tech article some time ago about the Toyota four pot conversion (which I have done) and mention was made of using a bigger slave cylinder on the rears. I seem to remember that it was a Morgan (or maybe Sunbeam) part number and available from Vicky British. Of course, now I cannot locate that article. Does anyone have that information saved? In particular, I am looking for the parts numbers. Thanks Ken Gano From 60TR3A at cox.net Mon Sep 8 16:37:04 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:37:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question In-Reply-To: References: <0K6V00DZ8IWW0P20@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Message-ID: Actually the conversion of a generator based car to negative ground is a 10-15 minute job. The process is on Dan Masters website. It is simple & straight forward that a former professor (me) did it! John On 8 Sep, 2008, at 6:15 AM, Carl TR wrote: > Red letter day last Saturday. The TR3 tub (et al) came back from > the body > shop. Going to do some test fittings over the next couple weeks > and then > it goes to the next step... paint/finish. Target date for on the > road is > now within sight: July 1, 2009...... > > In the meantime - thinking about long trips and no radio. Is there > some > way to hook up accessories (cd/mp3) to a positive ground electrical > system. > Or will a 'cigarette lighter' receptacle work (doesn't seem likely > in my > pebble brain). Not planning on an alternator conversion. > > Thanks. > Carl > 1961 TR3 - TS81802LO > Tampa, Florida > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Sep 8 16:41:07 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 18:41:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Temp gauge failure In-Reply-To: <813159.55261.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080908184107.19AO5.738642.root@mp15> I would check (replace) the temperature sensor before I messed with the guage. al ---- Joe Merone wrote: > The temperature gauge on my TR6 is the one instrument that has worked without > much deviation or any failure for years - until now. The normal operating > temperature usually reads slightly below the 1/2 mark, but for the past week > it wouldn't go up over the 1/4 mark. Now nothing - it won't budge off the > bottom. I've fiddled around behind the dash to make sure that everything is > connected, and traced the wire up to the sensor near the thermostat. I think > that it all seems where it's supposed to be. Any ideas? Do these things just > die? I did replace the voltage stabilizer last year when it was on the fritz, > but don't know if there's any connection. > > Thanks in advance. > > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF18928 > > Just back from The Glen > 4 nights with the wife > in a tent! > 850 miles r/t From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 8 18:24:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 17:24:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] intermittant rough running In-Reply-To: <20080908115658.HR0YZ.280044.imail@eastrmwml10> References: <20080908115658.HR0YZ.280044.imail@eastrmwml10> Message-ID: <3253A74CB5C9433B923049688AE86440@jdnet.deere.com> > 300 miles later I get the same symptoms and replace the plugs again. What > gives????? I really could use your help. The plugs aren't expensive, but > it's bothering me. I'd start by measuring the resistance of the plug wires, from coil terminal to plug terminal. You could also try a step hotter or colder plugs; and be sure to use as little choke as possible when starting. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 8 18:32:49 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 17:32:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question In-Reply-To: References: <0K6V00DZ8IWW0P20@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Message-ID: > In the meantime - thinking about long trips and no radio. Is there some > way to hook up accessories (cd/mp3) to a positive ground electrical > system. I agree with what's been written, just wanted to add a couple of points. I would suggest using a self-resetting circuit breaker (normally used for power windows and such, available at any auto parts store) instead of a fuse for the cigarette lighter, if you stick with positive ground. The price of the circuit breaker will buy a lot of fuses, but it's annoying to have to stop and change them. And, I'd like to point out that in most states, it is illegal to wear headphones while driving a car; and that listening to speakers in a moving TR3 requires more audio power than you are likely to get from the usual 'Walkman' type speakers. Randall From dlylis at aol.com Mon Sep 8 19:32:26 2008 From: dlylis at aol.com (dlylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 21:32:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question In-Reply-To: References: <0K6V00DZ8IWW0P20@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Message-ID: <8CAE0330CD0B530-D9C-1B70@webmail-ne09.sysops.aol.com> Carl, Where are you in Tampa with a TR3A in process?? I am in Safety Harbor with the end in sight with my 60.? I have been through the MP3 question with my TR6.? I installed a Pioneer deck with MP3 capability and then installed an interface for my iPod.? It is not as complicated as it sounds to be sure and the set up charges the iPod, while it lies in the glove box.? You can run the iPod from the deck in the dash, but I get the sense you do not want modern electronics in your 3A.? Don't blame you.? After much research, and maybe I was talking to the wrong people, you have to install a minimum 50 Watt deck to run MP3 for sound in the car.?I could not find just an amp to bury somewhere out of sight.?? TR3A is a noisy machine and I don't know that it is worth the effort.? I find?that with this setup in my TR6 the entertainment is, well, entertaining, only at slow speeds.? With the speeds in Florida I mostly cannot hear it very clearly.? -----Original Message----- From: 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net> To: Carl TR Cc: Triumph car discussion Sports Sent: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 6:37 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question Actually the conversion of a generator based car to negative ground is a 10-15 minute job. The process is on Dan Masters website. It is simple & straight forward that a former professor (me) did it! John On 8 Sep, 2008, at 6:15 AM, Carl TR wrote: > Red letter day last Saturday. The TR3 tub (et al) came back from > the body > shop. Going to do some test fittings over the next couple weeks > and then > it goes to the next step... paint/finish. Target date for on the > road is > now within sight: July 1, 2009...... > > In the meantime - thinking about long trips and no radio. Is there > some > way to hook up accessories (cd/mp3) to a positive ground electrical > system. > Or will a 'cigarette lighter' receptacle work (doesn't seem likely > in my > pebble brain). Not planning on an alternator conversion. > > Thanks. > Carl > 1961 TR3 - TS81802LO > Tampa, Florida > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as dlylis at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From boggiano at charter.net Mon Sep 8 19:38:55 2008 From: boggiano at charter.net (Thomas Boggiano) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 21:38:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] UPDATE oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs References: <20080901045627.VZNA2424.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <002c01c9121c$d275ce90$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Hi All I thought I would update you all with availability of the plugs. I made a call to TRF who actually have these ( only available in a lot of 3 plugs, why when you only need 2, I have no idea ) Part number from TRF is PU1404/3 and they cost less for the group $3. So the engine re-assembly continues Tom From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 8 20:10:53 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 19:10:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question In-Reply-To: References: <0K6V00DZ8IWW0P20@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809081910w6e0e18fcg5dda8849282055d4@mail.gmail.com> Which is like telling me that a sex-change is minor surgery. Can't say exactly why, but I'm positive ground for life. Geo On 9/8/08, 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net> wrote: > Actually the conversion of a generator based car to negative ground is > a 10-15 minute job. From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Sep 8 20:47:12 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 22:47:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Positive Ground Accessory question In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0809081910w6e0e18fcg5dda8849282055d4@mail.gmail.com> References: Message-ID: <48C5AB70.26740.5F1AA91@localhost> On 8 Sep 2008 at 19:10, Geo Hahn wrote: > Can't say exactly why, but I'm positive ground for life. So one hydrogen atom says to another "I've lost my electron." And the other asks "How do you know? Are you sure?" And the first one says "I'm positive." -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 8 23:22:09 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 22:22:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] UPDATE oil gallery ends plugs and oil gallery plugs In-Reply-To: <002c01c9121c$d275ce90$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: <20080909052210.YFJX26261.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > ( only > available in a lot of 3 plugs, why when you only need 2, I > have no idea ) Perhaps the 3rd one is for the other poured-in plug in the cylinder head? Randall From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 8 23:41:24 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 22:41:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 - Rope Fan Belt and Non-stopping Generator Message-ID: Hi all - Had a mostly successful drive from Chico, CA to the Brisbane British Car Show, near San Francisco, this weekend, about a 3 1/2 hour drive. Went down on Saturday. It ran a little hot (about 200) on the highway in triple digit weather. When I got near the ocean, it cooled right down to 185. Had a great time at the show, and took some pictures of some beautiful cars. I will post them later. On the way back, my troubles began. FYI, I have a TR2 with a TR3a engine, positive ground, new generator, new voltage regulator, new battery, new wiring, new fuse box, and new fan belt. ("new" is less than 400 miles) I was driving at speed on the interstate when I heard a "bang" from the front, and the temp gauge went straight to 230, so I knew that the fan belt had gone. I coasted into a gas station, and popped the hood. The fan belt was shredded. The odd thing was that the generator was still spinning. It continued to spin until I disconnected one of the wires. Can anyone explain why? I thought the generator only spin via the fan belt, and did not independently spin. It seemed like it turned into an electric motor. None of the wires seemed abnormally hot. None of the connections had melted, and neither of the fuses had blown. All electrical connections were still tight. The water pump spins freely, with no wobble. No water is leaking from the pump, and there was no abnormal noise from the engine prior to the "bang". The generator, as indicated by the amp gauge, was working fine before the "bang". The water temp was about 190 on the gauge before the "bang". Then, I realized that I had forgotten to pack the spare fan belt. I had everything else, just not the belt. A quick tour of the nearby truck stops failed to turn up an emergency fan belt, so one was fashioned from a rope. Don't laugh - it got me home!! The problem was that the generator, although spinning with the "new" fan belt, did not produce any electricity, as registered by the amp gauge. At times, the generator light did dim, but it registered on the amp gauge as a negative flow, rather than a positive flow. Did I somehow reverse the polarity of the generator? In looking at the old fan belt, it looks like something had worn through it. Now, I'm wondering of the generator was still spinning after the car was turned off at the show, and wore through the fan belt. Maybe the problem was with the generator and not the fan belt? What do I look for? The best part of the story is that I made it all the way home, about 1 1/2 hours, in the dark, with the lights on, and running off the battery. I will take pictures of the rope fan belt. Anyway, how much damage have I done to the electrical system of my car? Any help would be greatly appreciated. David Gunn 1954 TR2 TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 9 00:12:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 23:12:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 - Rope Fan Belt and Non-stopping Generator In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080909061235.PIJR9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > The odd thing was that the generator was still spinning. It > continued to spin until I disconnected one of the wires. Can > anyone explain why? That would indicate that the cutout relay in the control box did not open as it should. > It seemed like > it turned into an electric motor. Exactly right. Electrically, they are the same thing. When the engine turns the generator faster than it wants to run, it generates power. But with the engine not turning it, the generator would act like a motor except that normally, the cutout disconnects it from the battery when the output voltage drops below the battery voltage. > Did I somehow reverse the polarity of the generator? Possible, I guess. Couldn't hurt to try repolarizing it, but I don't think it will help. And of course it won't solve whatever is wrong with the control box. > Any help would be greatly appreciated. The steps in the attached booklet are reasonably straightforward, and should quickly lead you to the problem. Don't forget that there may be multiple problems, so perform all the tests before deciding which units to replace. If you are lucky, it's just the control box ... but unfortunately, driving with the control box on the fritz may have fried the generator as well. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Lucas Generator and Control Box tests OCR.pdf] From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 9 06:18:16 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 08:18:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 - Rope Fan Belt and Non-stopping Generator Message-ID: <523340E2.463D1624.36296DCF@cs.com> "Randall" wrote: >> The odd thing was that the generator was still spinning. It >> continued to spin until I disconnected one of the wires. Can >> anyone explain why? > >That would indicate that the cutout relay in the control box did not open as >it should. > >> It seemed like >> it turned into an electric motor. > >Exactly right. Electrically, they are the same thing. When the engine >turns the generator faster than it wants to run, it generates power. But >with the engine not turning it, the generator would act like a motor except >that normally, the cutout disconnects it from the battery when the output >voltage drops below the battery voltage. > >> Did I somehow reverse the polarity of the generator? > >Possible, I guess. Couldn't hurt to try repolarizing it, but I don't think >it will help. And of course it won't solve whatever is wrong with the >control box. > >> Any help would be greatly appreciated. > >The steps in the attached booklet are reasonably straightforward, and should >quickly lead you to the problem. Don't forget that there may be multiple >problems, so perform all the tests before deciding which units to replace. >If you are lucky, it's just the control box ... but unfortunately, driving >with the control box on the fritz may have fried the generator as well. > >Randall > The cutout relay opens up in response to large currents flowing into the generator when it comes to a stop. Since the generator never came to a stop there was no large current. And the lower lever of current flowing into the generator to spin it was not sufficient. I suspect there is nothing wrong with the control box. The same thing happened to my MG back in the 70's. New belt and all was fine. Dave From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Tue Sep 9 06:44:54 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 08:44:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3a extra switch locations? Message-ID: My >60K 3a now has much of a Dan Masters wiring harness in place. Now I need a location for a hazard light switch, electric fan switch and indicator lamp, and one or two 12 v outlets. There isn't a whole lot of extra space...I'm thinking of making a couple of small panels, one on either side of the bottom of the centre instrument panel, with their bottoms flush with the instrument panel. (Because it appears anything directly below the instrument panel will interfere with the shift lever, which is not installed yet.) I will be installing Miata seats, but they won't be in for a while and I'd like to get all these dangling wires out of the way in the meantime. So the question is, will I be de-kneecapitated by a new little switch cluster in this location, or is there planty of room? I'm about 5'10". Or any other suggestions? I'd even like an extra gauge, or two, if I could only find a decent spot. Thanks, Jim From deruiterville at hotmail.com Tue Sep 9 07:47:01 2008 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 08:47:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] rear brake cylinders TR3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ken- I think you may be looking for Lee Jannsen's article: http://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_brake_test.htm Information I have on the part number is 7-946 from Vicky Brit, but you'd want to confirm. Regards, Randy _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ From billtr4 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 9 08:12:43 2008 From: billtr4 at hotmail.com (bill schuld) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 09:12:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brad kahler Message-ID: Brad, would you please contact me? I have a part of yours from several years ago. Bill Schuld New Lenox, Il _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 9 08:44:17 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 14:44:17 +0000 Subject: [TR] American iron help? Message-ID: Sorry no LBC content. But I appeal to the wisdom of the list for a successful resolution. I have a Ford 8" rear end in my TR3A. In April I found a leaking axel seal on the right side. I replaced the seal, the axel bearing, and the brakes on both sides. The car has been driven just a thousand miles since then and the right axel seal is leaking again. My Motor Manual suggestes the possible reasons are: 1. Worn seal. Not applicable. 2. To thin oil in the differential. I am using Red Line multigrade 75 - 90. 3. Clogged differential vent. I checked and it appeared to be clear. 4. Loose bearing retained plate. It was tight. 5. Bad bearing. Not applicable. 6. Cracked differential housing. Unlikely but not magnafluxed yet. 7. Axel worn at the seal contact area. Tested and appears to have good contact area. Does anyone have any other ideas about why a new axel seal would leak? Thanks for your help. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 9 09:20:25 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 08:20:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] American iron help? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080909152026.UFJC27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > 7. Axel worn at the seal contact area. Tested and appears > to have good contact area. How exactly did you test it? It only takes the slightest groove where the seal lip rides, to tear the lip up in short order. My rule of thumb is that if I can't polish away all marks with crocus cloth, the area must be renewed (or the seal installed to ride somewhere else). Randall From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Sep 9 12:33:09 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 11:33:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 450 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003f01c912aa$82ae2180$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> I agree with Randall on this. It could also be a combination of the worn area and a restricted vent. If the axel is worn, the slightest pressure my force the oil past the seal. Brian '67 TR4a ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 08:20:25 -0700 From: "Randall" Subject: Re: [TR] American iron help? To: Message-ID: <20080909152026.UFJC27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com at randall> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > 7. Axel worn at the seal contact area. Tested and appears > to have good contact area. How exactly did you test it? It only takes the slightest groove where the seal lip rides, to tear the lip up in short order. My rule of thumb is that if I can't polish away all marks with crocus cloth, the area must be renewed (or the seal installed to ride somewhere else). Randall ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 450 **************************************** From DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org Tue Sep 9 12:34:25 2008 From: DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org (Don Scott) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 11:34:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 body gaps Message-ID: Hello list, I have been looking (for too long!) at TR4s, hoping to buy one. I have noticed that the gaps of the trunks are irregular, as are the rocker panels on many cars. I looked at a white TR4 that was almost concours quality at the British car show in Brisbane CA on Sunday. Asking price was high. Car was beautiful, but the fit of the trunk and rockers made me think that it had been rusted or wrecked, then repaired, but not to a high standard. Or, were the gaps on these cars not great when the cars were new? Thanks! Don Scott '62 MGA '91 Miata BRG '73 MGB GT From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Sep 9 12:51:41 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 11:51:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 - Rope Fan Belt and Non-stopping Generator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0809091151q8a0338arbf9b83e7d66ffeb7@mail.gmail.com> If that had occurred your red ignition light should have remained lit after the ignition was switched off. Would have been pretty noticeable unless the dash was in full sun. On 9/8/08, David Gunn wrote: > ... Now, I'm wondering of the generator was still spinning after the car was turned off at the show... From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Sep 9 12:56:51 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 11:56:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 body gaps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0809091156r59b8f194m7311e67721e183b@mail.gmail.com> My experience with one never-hit, never-restored TR4 is that the gaps are very even all around. On 9/9/08, Don Scott wrote: > Hello list, > I have been looking (for too long!) at TR4s, hoping to buy one. I have > noticed that the gaps of the trunks are irregular, as are the rocker panels > on > many cars. I looked at a white TR4 that was almost concours quality at the > British car show in Brisbane CA on Sunday. Asking price was high. Car was > beautiful, but the fit of the trunk and rockers made me think that it had > been > rusted or wrecked, then repaired, but not to a high standard. Or, were the > gaps on these cars not great when the cars were new? > Thanks! > Don Scott > '62 MGA > '91 Miata BRG > '73 MGB GT > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From cole.jw at comcast.net Tue Sep 9 13:09:07 2008 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (cole.jw at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 19:09:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Overzealous At Idle Message-ID: <090920081909.27240.48C6C9D30007B04E00006A6822007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> Good day all, My 1972 TR6 is stock, aside from a Pertronix Ignitor ignition module and a Flamethrower coil. The car runs pretty good, aside from being terribly cold-blooded and the idle speed is very high. The idle speed was just as high before the Pertronix parts were added. It had a Crane ignition before. The idle remains very high even with the choke cable disconnected, the throttle linkage removed and the idle speed screws on both carbs backed out to where the venturi are closed. The carb linkage moves freely and is not binding. Disconnecting the vacuum advance causes the RPMs to decrease only very slightly. Any thoughts? Jerry From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 9 13:33:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 12:33:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Overzealous At Idle In-Reply-To: <090920081909.27240.48C6C9D30007B04E00006A6822007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> References: <090920081909.27240.48C6C9D30007B04E00006A6822007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> Message-ID: > Disconnecting the vacuum advance causes the RPMs to decrease only very > slightly. > > Any thoughts? Is this a PI TR6? Because a stock 72 TR6 with carbs shouldn't have a vacuum advance ... If it does have carbs, my guess would be that the vacuum retard is not working, and the throttles are being held open by the linkage to the float bowl vent valve. On my 71 Stag, I was able to bend the vent linkage adjustment enough to set the idle without the retard, but your 72 carbs may be different in that area. Randall From stonywoods840 at rochester.rr.com Tue Sep 9 13:41:00 2008 From: stonywoods840 at rochester.rr.com (Larry Rausch) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 15:41:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 grill molding Message-ID: <937FD3CB476A4FDCBCE7E45B07DCE66D@larry> Hi: I've just found the molding that goes around the grill for a small mouth TR3. But still missing the two clips that hold the ends together can someone show me what these clips look like and if they are available and also how is the molding attached to the front apron, what type of clip? .Larry From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Sep 9 13:52:41 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 12:52:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-3 frame inside frame rails treatment Message-ID: <368066.19353.qm@web59612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm doing a frame up on tr-3. Just wondering what others have done with the inside frame rails. I've done POR-15 on the outside but am wondering if its common to also do the inside...........drilling holes ect. also what kind of product to use. thanks gary nafziger From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 9 14:11:22 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 20:11:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Overzealous At Idle Message-ID: <090920082011.23812.48C6D86A0002AB5500005D0422155754749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: cole.jw at comcast.net > The idle remains very high even with the choke cable disconnected, the throttle > linkage removed and the idle speed screws on both carbs backed out to where the > venturi are closed. The carb linkage moves freely and is not binding. > > Disconnecting the vacuum advance causes the RPMs to decrease only very > slightly. > > Any thoughts? Leaky throttle shafts? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Sep 9 16:01:32 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 18:01:32 EDT Subject: [TR] American iron help? Message-ID: Does this have a ball or tapered ball bearing? Sometimes the outer race wears away the housing causing the tapered bearing to gain end play. This end play allows the axle to move up and down exceeding the flexability of the seal. Also if the garter spring falls off the seal it will leak. Garter springs can come off when the seal is pounded in. Harold ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 9 16:02:04 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 18:02:04 EDT Subject: [TR] tr-3 frame inside frame rails treatment Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2008 2:53:13 PM Central Daylight Time, nafzigerg at yahoo.com writes: > I'm doing a frame up on tr-3. Just wondering what others have done with > the > inside frame rails. I've done POR-15 on the outside but am wondering if its > common to also do the inside...........drilling holes ect. also what kind > of > product to use. > > I took mine to Ziebart. They treated the interior cavities with a rust inhibitor and then coated them with their usual petroleum product. Quick, convenient, and about as good as anything I could think of (short of zinc dipping). Dave From brad.kahler at 141.com Tue Sep 9 16:12:38 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 22:12:38 GMT Subject: [TR] TR3 small mouth vintage race car for sale Message-ID: <200809091612242.SM05660@[166.70.182.40]> Listers, I bought this carB eight years ago and have finally reached the conclusion that I'm not going to get the time to finish building it let alone get the time to race it. This car was originally turned into a vintage race car in the early 80's and raced with VARA on the west coast.B The previous owner stopped racing it around 1996 to do some frame modifications to it.B He pulled the body from the frame and never got any farther than that.B Joe Alexander trailered the car from L.A. to Dallas for me in 2000.B When I asked the PO what I needed to do to get the car running he told me to bolt the body back onto the frame, hook up the wires, add oil and gas and go racing.B Taking the advice from members of the FOT they suggested that I at least pull the pan and check out the main and rod bearings.B So I did and that led to me finding that the oil pump shaft had sheared and gauled the crank.B Rather than go racing I ended up tearing everything down for a rebuild. Fast forward to 2008 and my wife and I are moving from Arkansas to Kentucky andB I just don't have the time, room or energy to deal with putting the car back together.B I came to the conclusion I "might" be able to give it some attention around 2017 :( This car was a rust free california car that was turned into a vintage racer.B It wouldn't take that much work to convert it back to a street car if desired.B I have a LOT of parts to go along with the car.B I have most of what it takes to convert it to a street car and I also have most of what it takes to complete it as a vintage race car.B If interested contact me for specifics. Thanks, Brad 870-329-1335 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 9 16:20:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 15:20:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3a extra switch locations? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob Schaller's More BS about TRs showed his dash layout, which as I recall provided for 2 extra gauges and several extra switches; without having anything hanging down below the dash. He made a new center panel for the gauges, and relocated some of the controls and indicators elsewhere. I've also seen a gauge added to the dash outboard of the steering wheel, that looked nice. Don't recall what he did with the OD and heater switches, tho. I've not tried adding things below the dash in a TR3A, but I'd want to do a mockup first. Had a van once that had an oil pressure gauge added in a location that looked safe enough; but the gauge got kicked occasionally and eventually the oil line broke and dumped hot oil on the carpet. Another thought: Smiths made a dual mechanical oil pressure/water temperature gauge that fits in the standard 2" (52mm) hole. If you used one of those to replace the original pair of gauges, you'd have an extra hole for another gauge. These were commonly used in other British cars of the period (MGA, Healey, etc.). And I even managed to find one on flea-bay with a black bezel to match the Stag instruments. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280265151680 Randall From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Sep 9 16:21:51 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 18:21:51 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 body gaps Message-ID: In a message dated 9/9/2008 2:35:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, DSCOTT1 at sonoma-county.org writes: Or, were the gaps on these cars not great when the cars were new? Thanks! Don, I am going to say that Triumph's in general were inexpensive sport cars. Therefore one could not expect perfect fitment of body panels. TR4's were supposedly notorious for bad panel fitment. My restored 62 Concours quality TR4 has horrible gaps, no doubt the result of a bad restoration. Way too bad for me for the car is otherwise near perfect in every way. I have an original 63 TR4 that has pretty decent gaps but no where near perfect. My original TR6 has doors that stick out at the bottom. This is a characteristic of Spitfires too. I have three Wedges that have various gaps and doors that really don't fit that well. Should I even mention the TR3B that after restoration takes a guerilla to open the doors? Cheers, Darrell **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 9 16:22:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 15:22:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 - Rope Fan Belt and Non-stopping Generator In-Reply-To: <523340E2.463D1624.36296DCF@cs.com> References: <523340E2.463D1624.36296DCF@cs.com> Message-ID: <4554CFFE34CB4B90ABAE2FE3CD0D51D8@jdnet.deere.com> > The cutout relay opens up in response to large currents flowing into the > generator when it comes to a stop. Since the generator never came to a > stop there was no large current. And the lower lever of current flowing > into the generator to spin it was not sufficient. I suspect there is > nothing wrong with the control box. > > The same thing happened to my MG back in the 70's. New belt and all was > fine. Could be, I guess, but it shouldn't take much current for the cutout to drop out. It has two windings, one for voltage and one for current; the current has to only match the voltage (and be opposite sign) for the cutout to open. It will actually stay closed if you mash it closed with the engine stopped, because the current is enough larger than the voltage to hold the armature down. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Sep 9 16:47:20 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 22:47:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 body gaps Message-ID: <090920082247.21772.48C6FCF8000BB65B0000550C22165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > I have been looking (for too long!) at TR4s, hoping to buy one. I have > noticed that the gaps of the trunks are irregular, as are the rocker panels on > many cars. were the gaps on these cars not great when the cars were new? Hi, Don. Guess the pertinent question is what you're looking for the car to do for you? I've never been to a Triumph event yet--rats, keep planning to--but recognize the love people have of showing their cars and sipping from beer cups and restoration memories with others of like ilk. Another version of this is having the car in a garage where it is a pleasure to just stare at like the work of art it is. On the other hand, are you interested in driving the thing daily? My '59 TR3A is likely not perfect, but frankly I've never looked at it for flaws that don't affect performance, because my biggest thrill is mornings driving south in the fast lane in Interstate 93 on the way to work, rippling through the breeze past the tin bubbles that pass for transportation in the modern world. If it's driving you want, few people on the road or roadsides notice or care about micrometer differences in panel gaps. They're simply brought to nirvana by having something original, exciting, and different to look at. Uh, wait, that part about inspiring nirvana could be me. But the car draws attention too.... :o) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Sep 9 16:53:26 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 22:53:26 +0000 Subject: [TR] tr-3 frame inside frame rails treatment Message-ID: <090920082253.10303.48C6FE660006C6A60000283F22165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > I'm doing a frame up on tr-3. Just wondering what others have done with the > inside frame rails. I've done POR-15 on the outside but am wondering if its > common to also do the inside...........drilling holes ect. also what kind of > product to use. Hi, Gary. Lots of answers to this question on the List, most of which are completely acceptable. When I had everything off the frame of my TR 3A, I painted it with POR-15 as you did. Then I bought a five quart jug of cheap oil, poured it inside existing holes, then juggled the frame until the inside was completely coated. Let drain on cheap painter plastic sheeting. The frame was already 45 years old and solid, so I thought anything more was overkill for a car that would never see winter again. Just my 2 cents worth. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From boggiano at charter.net Tue Sep 9 17:29:42 2008 From: boggiano at charter.net (Thomas Boggiano) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 19:29:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Piston Installation Message-ID: <000a01c912d3$efbc1510$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Hi All I installed the new pistons this evening in the new sleaves. All the rings gapped to .015 or .016 When I put the Crank in eveything rotated nice an smoothly, As I put each piston in it got much harder to rotate everything, and after the last piston was installed it is now almost imposible to rotate anything. It really takes a lot of force to move a piston down or rotate the crank. On a new install how difficult should it be for all this to move? If I have to take it apart now would be a good time to do it. Thanks Tom From thebujas at comcast.net Tue Sep 9 17:50:07 2008 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 18:50:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Overzealous At Idle In-Reply-To: Message-ID: cole.jw at comcast.net wrote: > My 1972 TR6 idle speed is very high. > > The idle remains very high even with the choke cable disconnected, > the throttle linkage removed and the idle speed screws on both > carbs backed out to where the venturi are closed. The carb linkage > moves freely and is not binding. > > Disconnecting the vacuum advance causes the RPMs to decrease only > very slightly. If you've already ruled out leaky throttle seals, I would look at the bypass valve diaphragms and the gaskets that attach the bypass valve to each carburetor. A leaky or misadjusted bypass valve will cause an abnormally high idle, which may go as high as 2000 to 2500 rpm with the vacuum retard capsule disconnected. Many bypass valve gaskets have an hourglass shaped opening between the two ports in the bypass valve. This will cause a permanent throttle bypass that will prevent you from lowering the idle below 1000 rpm. TRF sells new bypass valve diaphragms as part number ZEBPV6 for $12.95. I just bought one and it was sourced from Joe Curto as "BP-014 Zenith Stromberg Bypass Assy Rebuild Kit". This package came with the rubber diaphragm with brass valve, a rubber ring to seal the adjustment screw, and three gaskets. One had the hourglass shaped opening, and I believe the other two had two individual passages to the diaphragm valve ports. IIRC, one of these two gaskets has an additional vacuum port while the other does not. My 72 TR6 needed the third small vacuum port to operate the valve. Other models may have a separate vacuum line to the valve body. If your bypass valve adjustment screw is blanked off with a brass plug, you can disassemble the valve and push the brass plug out from the inside of the valve so you can adjust the valve while it's mounted on the carb. Follow the ROM procedure 19.15.02C steps 23 through 26f (pages 223 and 224 of the Robert Bentley TR6 manual). Remember that turning the adjustment screw clockwise will reduce the force of the internal spring that holds the valve closed, and turning it anti-clockwise will increase the force holding it closed. I replaced a "perished" bypass diaphragm and hourglass-shaped gasket with a new diaphragm and gasket with two distinct bypass valve ports on one of the carbs on my TR6 this spring and was able to drop the idle from 1100 down to 750. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From L1J1S at aol.com Tue Sep 9 17:53:59 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 19:53:59 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 engine timing Message-ID: hello, what is the best way to time a tr3 & 4 engine? should one use a timing light or use a teSt light (static timing)? i know it has to be 3/8" before TDC. any suggestions welcomed.. LARRY SCHWARTZ **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From L1J1S at aol.com Tue Sep 9 17:58:14 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 19:58:14 EDT Subject: [TR] undercoating removal Message-ID: hello, first of all i know it's gonna be a bone and a messy of a job. with the chassis already in the car, what is the best way to remove the undercoating from the chassis? larry schwartz **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue Sep 9 18:21:04 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 20:21:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Overzealous At Idle In-Reply-To: <090920081909.27240.48C6C9D30007B04E00006A6822007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> References: <090920081909.27240.48C6C9D30007B04E00006A6822007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <61A06971D49A428DA3DF0D5F8EF3EB23@Scott> Try plugging off the bypass valve to see of this brings down the idle. If it does, then the diaphragm in the bypass valve needs replaced. Do it to the front carb, and then the rear carb. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of cole.jw at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 3:09 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Overzealous At Idle Good day all, My 1972 TR6 is stock, aside from a Pertronix Ignitor ignition module and a Flamethrower coil. The car runs pretty good, aside from being terribly cold-blooded and the idle speed is very high. The idle speed was just as high before the Pertronix parts were added. It had a Crane ignition before. The idle remains very high even with the choke cable disconnected, the throttle linkage removed and the idle speed screws on both carbs backed out to where the venturi are closed. The carb linkage moves freely and is not binding. Disconnecting the vacuum advance causes the RPMs to decrease only very slightly. Any thoughts? Jerry Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as suhringtr36 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Sep 9 18:44:28 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 17:44:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] thanks on frame rail question also oil pump question Message-ID: <54677.60625.qm@web59616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> thanks for the responses on inside frame rail protection! great list!! I STILL have no oil pressure after going through all systems thoroughly. Upon installing the oil pump I remember turning the pick up tube/screen almost fully into the oil pump as far as it will go........then reading in here it should be measured to protrude 4.25 inches from face of oil pump. My question is...............if pick up tube is threaded up as far as possible................will this lift the opening above the oil level, resulting in no pressure? thanks! gary nafziger From dwillner at ptd.net Tue Sep 9 18:56:15 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 20:56:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] undercoating removal References: Message-ID: <000701c912e0$07d629e0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Larry, Heat gun and putty knife works well on flat surfaces, they also make a liquid "remover," more like a paste, I've had good results with it along with a wire brush and course steel wool. Eastwood also makes a pretty good kit and do a "Google" search, there's a ton of info on the subject. Wear gloves, drink heavily, and have fun... Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 7:58 PM Subject: [TR] undercoating removal > hello, first of all i know it's gonna be a bone and a messy of a job. with > the chassis already in the car, what is the best way to remove the > undercoating > from the chassis? larry schwartz > > > > **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion > blog, > plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. > (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) > _______________________________________________ From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Tue Sep 9 19:07:32 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 21:07:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 grill molding Message-ID: Larry Rausch, I tried to send a message to 'stonywood840 at rochester.rr.com but it rejected. Contact me about the grill clips you are looking for. I have a source who will have them shortly. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ From darrellw at ipns.com Tue Sep 9 19:12:34 2008 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 18:12:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] undercoating removal In-Reply-To: <000701c912e0$07d629e0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> References: <000701c912e0$07d629e0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Message-ID: On Sep 9, 2008, at 5:56 PM, davewillner wrote: > Heat gun and putty knife works well on flat surfaces And if you can get to the other side of the sheet metal, heat that up and you can remove it without melting the the whole mess. -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From spitlist at cox.net Tue Sep 9 19:20:03 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 18:20:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] undercoating removal In-Reply-To: References: <000701c912e0$07d629e0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> Message-ID: Since most undercoating is asphalt based, if it is not too thick, using a simple pre-paint cleaner like PPG "Acryli-Clean" will clean it right off. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darrell Walker Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 6:13 PM To: davewillner Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] undercoating removal On Sep 9, 2008, at 5:56 PM, davewillner wrote: > Heat gun and putty knife works well on flat surfaces And if you can get to the other side of the sheet metal, heat that up and you can remove it without melting the the whole mess. -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 9 19:31:30 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 18:31:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 - Rope Fan Belt and Non-stopping Generator In-Reply-To: <20080909061235.PIJR9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080909061235.PIJR9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Thanks for all of the help. I'll let everyone know what happens this weekend when I get a chance to work on the car. David Gunn> From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> CC: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [TR] TR2 - Rope Fan Belt and Non-stopping Generator> Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 23:12:35 -0700> > > > The odd thing was that the generator was still spinning. It > > continued to spin until I disconnected one of the wires. Can > > anyone explain why?> > That would indicate that the cutout relay in the control box did not open as> it should.> > > It seemed like > > it turned into an electric motor.> > Exactly right. Electrically, they are the same thing. When the engine> turns the generator faster than it wants to run, it generates power. But> with the engine not turning it, the generator would act like a motor except> that normally, the cutout disconnects it from the battery when the output> voltage drops below the battery voltage.> > > Did I somehow reverse the polarity of the generator?> > Possible, I guess. Couldn't hurt to try repolarizing it, but I don't think> it will help. And of course it won't solve whatever is wrong with the> control box.> > > Any help would be greatly appreciated.> > The steps in the attached booklet are reasonably straightforward, and should> quickly lead you to the problem. Don't forget that there may be multiple> problems, so perform all the tests before deciding which units to replace.> If you are lucky, it's just the control box ... but unfortunately, driving> with the control box on the fritz may have fried the generator as well.> > Randall _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Sep 9 19:59:23 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 21:59:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr-3 frame inside frame rails treatment References: <368066.19353.qm@web59612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <030c01c912e8$d9b2b4d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Gary, I ran some kind of ship anti-rust treatment thru the rails that were mounted of a homemade rotisserie. I also raised one end, I forgot which, so it'd flow better. I think I put a stopper in some pre=exisiting holes. I did not drill any new holes. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Nafziger" To: Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 3:52 PM Subject: [TR] tr-3 frame inside frame rails treatment > I'm doing a frame up on tr-3. Just wondering what others have done with > the > inside frame rails. I've done POR-15 on the outside but am wondering if > its > common to also do the inside...........drilling holes ect. also what kind > of > product to use. > > thanks > > gary nafziger > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 916 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Sep 9 20:23:23 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 21:23:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine Piston Installation In-Reply-To: <000a01c912d3$efbc1510$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> References: <000a01c912d3$efbc1510$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: <20080910022327.74B89187662@autox.team.net> New rings on honed liners add a fair amount of drag. There are two things you want to be sure of: 1. Rod bearings are correctly sized and don't bind 2. Pistons are properly fitted to the liners For #1, when two pistons are at the top and two at the bottom it should be pretty freely turning. Once you are moving the pistons up and down it should be harder. If it's still hard when the pistons are at top and bottom, you've got something wrong in the bearing area - either wrong sized bearings or the caps got mixed up. Each rod cap is individual to that particular rod. For #2, you need to measure the pistons and liners before assembly. There should be 3 / 4 / 5 thousandths difference depending on what kind of pistons they are. I believe this is normally measured 90 degrees from the wrist pin hole, but it's good to measure both directions. Also, measure the liners at multiple points. With all new stuff, it should take less than, say, 15 ft lbs to turn it over. The force required will go up as you add cam and valvetrain, though. - Tony Drews At 06:29 PM 9/9/2008, Thomas Boggiano wrote: >Hi All > >I installed the new pistons this evening in the new sleaves. All the rings >gapped to .015 or .016 >When I put the Crank in eveything rotated nice an smoothly, As I put each >piston in it got much harder to rotate everything, and after the last piston >was installed it is now almost imposible to rotate anything. It really takes a >lot of force to move a piston down or rotate the crank. > >On a new install how difficult should it be for all this to move? If I have to >take it apart now would be a good time to do it. > >Thanks >Tom >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 9 20:53:57 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 19:53:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] thanks on frame rail question also oil pump question In-Reply-To: <54677.60625.qm@web59616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080910025357.VBZI12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > My > question is...............if pick up tube is threaded up as > far as possible................will this lift the opening > above the oil level, resulting in no pressure? Er, what engine are we talking about again? I thought this was a TRactor motor, where the pickup tube is bolted to the oil pump, not threaded. Randall From cole.jw at comcast.net Tue Sep 9 22:22:26 2008 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (Jerry Cole) Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 21:22:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Overzealous At Idle - Thanks To All References: Message-ID: <001001c912fc$d509fd30$ba00a8c0@Belen> Thank you to all who responded to my question about my TR6 idle issue, offlist and on. I little more than touched the front carb bypass valve adjustment screw and it all came back into line. I don't think it has ever run better. It is much less cold blooded now, too. I enjoyed a victory ride with my 9-year-old son Alex this evening. I have been restoring Triumphs for about 12 years now, but have been restoring Mercedes since 1984. One thing I have noticed is that the Triumph crowd is much more helpful and less critical on a personal level and I appreciate that. With the help of this list over the years, my TR6 has gone from a partially stripped basketcase under a tarp in a back yard on Beacon Hill in Seattle, to a shiny beauty (in its original Damson color) in my garage. It has been a bumpy ride, but well worth it. Jerry Cole Lakewood, WA. 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) 1981 Lancia Beta A bunch of Mercedes and others. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 10 05:42:32 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 07:42:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 engine timing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200809100742.32630.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 09 September 2008 19:53:59 L1J1S at aol.com wrote: > hello, what is the best way to time a tr3 & 4 engine? should one use a > timing light or use a teSt light (static timing)? i know it has to be 3/8" > before TDC. any suggestions welcomed.. LARRY SCHWARTZ > > > Larry, My method is to set the crank at TDC using the indicator on the crank pulley and then set the distributor so the points are just opening using a 12v light bulb (one of those dash bulbs), By attaching a bulb to the points and then ground you can then move the distributor back and forth until you get to the approximation. I made a little harness with a spare bulb socket and wire clips. Once that is done, set the distributor advance to 4 degrees advanced and you are at a good starting point. Remember to tighten down the distributor and start the engine. Now I adjust the timing by "ear" with the engine running by using the micrometer adjustment on the distributor advance. When it sounds ok, I take it for a spin to insure no knock and good power, acceleration. This method has always worked for me and both the 3 and 4 run just great. I think this method is described in the manual somewhere. Bob From peterara at msn.com Wed Sep 10 06:21:12 2008 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 05:21:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] overzealous idle Message-ID: the gasket specifications for the bypass valves from Burlen Fuel (the SU/Stromberg company) are that the hourglass gasket is used on valves with no vacuum line and the gasket with separate holes is used on valves with an additional vacuum line on them. Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Sep 10 06:25:57 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 08:25:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2 - Rope Fan Belt and Non-stopping Generator Message-ID: <336513C6.7D932C6F.36296DCF@cs.com> "Randall" wrote: >> The cutout relay opens up in response to large currents flowing into the >> generator when it comes to a stop. Since the generator never came to a >> stop there was no large current. And the lower lever of current flowing >> into the generator to spin it was not sufficient. I suspect there is >> nothing wrong with the control box. >> >> The same thing happened to my MG back in the 70's. New belt and all was >> fine. > >Could be, I guess, but it shouldn't take much current for the cutout to drop >out. It has two windings, one for voltage and one for current; the current >has to only match the voltage (and be opposite sign) for the cutout to open. > >It will actually stay closed if you mash it closed with the engine stopped, >because the current is enough larger than the voltage to hold the armature >down. > >Randall True but the voltage driven pull-in coil has many windings but the current driven drop-out coil is only two or three. So it seems normal that it would take a fair amount of current to counter the voltage coil. And if the generator is already spinning the current to maintain it may not be enough. But when the generator is connected to the engine via the belt the mechanical loading on the "motor" is virtually infinite and pulling locked rotor torque is easy. Then it is a race condition. Will the contacts open before the current rises so high that the magnetic field from the current coil will overwhelm the field from the voltage coil enough to pull in the contact? (Which is what happens when you mash the contacts closed) Dave From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Wed Sep 10 10:28:32 2008 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 12:28:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen Photos Message-ID: <6A904539-DC1E-458A-A187-8A8192112A31@blakedischer.com> It was a great time. A birthday cake for Kas Kastner. A roughly 40- car Triumph only race. 155 Triumphs in the Tour de Marque. About 225 Triumphs total for the festival. Photos at: http://www.fireflystudios.com/wg/ ________________________ Blake J. Discher From blambert at socal.rr.com Wed Sep 10 11:32:46 2008 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:32:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Free Tires (used) - Kumho 165/80-15 Message-ID: I have a couple of used Kumho 165/80-15 tires I want to make disappear. They have about 50-60% tread wear left and were purchased about two years ago. Free to anyone that wants them. Shipping is probably not cost effective (new tires for m TireRack are only about 40 bucks and shipping on these would probably be about 15 dollars each), but if you are in the Southern California area we can probably work out some sort of arrangement. Also, FWIW, I have a brand new Michelin 165-15 XZX that I'd also like to see disappear. It has never seen the road, still has the thin green stripe on the tread (I used it as an unneeded spare for several years), but.the tire is 8 years old. I wouldn't want anyone to actually use this tire on a driving car. If no takers, I'll just pay the CA tire disposal fee and be done with them. Thanks, Dennis From PeterSchop at aol.com Wed Sep 10 12:09:25 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:09:25 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 oil gallery leak Message-ID: I'm slowly working on my six as I find time. Before I put the body back on the frame, I am trying to fix some oil leaks. Last year before I took the car apart, I started it in the spring. I had a good flow of oil leaking out of the side of the block. First I thought it was the oil filter o-ring since the oil was running down the oil canister. At closer examination, I saw it was the plug right above the oil filter that was leaking. To pin point it, it is to the lower right of the fuel pump and to the left of the oil pressure gauge connection. The more I drove the car, the less it leaked. It sealed some what but was still leaking. No, I wasn't running low on oil! The plug is 7/8" wide and domed with no way of turning it. I do not know if it is pressed in or threaded. I don't want to take it out until I have another one to put in. I am looking at the TRF spare parts blue catalog and am thinking that it is part AH11 or PU1404. Am I looking at the right part? If not, is this plug available anywhere? **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From diggle at clear.net.nz Wed Sep 10 13:30:07 2008 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 07:30:07 +1200 Subject: [TR] TR4 Body Gaps Message-ID: <413E8272404B46F99D1BF9E684F0168E@athlon> The only ones that I have seen with good gaps all round are the restored ones, maybe thats becauseI haven't seen any that have not ben in a crash. A TR chassis remaufacturer in England once told me that TR chassis wree all a bit shorter on one side from new. Which probably means that uneven gaps might be common from new. But I agree with the gentleman who said that onlookers are bought to Nirvana by the sight of a very attractive little car. Jim and his Black 62 TR4 From DLylis at aol.com Wed Sep 10 17:43:00 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 19:43:00 EDT Subject: [TR] undercoating removal Message-ID: Larry, Let me tell you a story. My 69 TR6 lived in Canada it's whole life before moving to Florida and the chassis was coated with that tar/rubberized undercoating, which I did not like. I put the car up on jack stands and with my air chisel went at it. It was dirty, noxious, exhausting work, but it came off. I used a sharpened file as a hand tool when necessary. I went in the house, dragging my arse, to shower and rid myself of the remnants. On the way to the shower I walked past the bed which called to me like the Sirens luring Greek sailors to the rocks. I laid down, just for a moment, and fell dead asleep. My wife caught me, and I leaped from the bed, revealing a large gob of tar stuck to the pillowcase; previously stuck to the back to my head. However you do it, don't lie down afterward. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Sep 10 18:12:19 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 00:12:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Overzealous At Idle - Thanks To All Message-ID: <091120080012.13194.48C8626300089ABE0000338A22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Congratulations, Jerry! -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Jerry Cole" > Thank you to all who responded to my question about my TR6 idle issue, > offlist and on. I little more than touched the front carb bypass valve > adjustment screw and it all came back into line. I don't think it has ever > run better. It is much less cold blooded now, too. I enjoyed a victory ride > with my 9-year-old son Alex this evening. > > I have been restoring Triumphs for about 12 years now, but have been > restoring Mercedes since 1984. One thing I have noticed is that the Triumph > crowd is much more helpful and less critical on a personal level and I > appreciate that. With the help of this list over the years, my TR6 has gone > from a partially stripped basketcase under a tarp in a back yard on Beacon > Hill in Seattle, to a shiny beauty (in its original Damson color) in my > garage. It has been a bumpy ride, but well worth it. > > Jerry Cole > Lakewood, WA. > 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) > 1981 Lancia Beta > A bunch of Mercedes and others. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Sep 10 18:25:20 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 00:25:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spark Plug Irritation Message-ID: <091120080025.24669.48C865700007AD800000605D22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Second time occurrence. This time, racing from one meeting that went late in Concord, to a meeting with feds and other states in Meredith, NH, zooming up Interstate 93 at a bit over 90 mph, blessing the bad economy, reduced state budget, and downsized highway patrol, I suddenly went from 4 purring cylinders to cutting out and then the rough burr of 3 cylinders. Already guessed the problem. Was right. Made it to the meeting, endured it keeping my eyes open the whole while, and at break popped the hood. The number three spark plug wire had popped off. What happens is, the little cap on the spark plug had vibrated loose again, until the wire came loose. Tightened it again with needlenose. This common to others? Haven't had it before like this. Suspect a bit of superglue or locktite might do the trick. Any better ideas out there? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Wed Sep 10 19:21:23 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 21:21:23 EDT Subject: [TR] Spark Plug Irritation Message-ID: In a message dated 9/10/08 8:25:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: << Tightened it again with needlenose. >> First a note to others, observe I've trimmed the old post to near nothing per our list master. I'd hope others do the same in order to save list traffic and hard drive space. For the cap to come off the spark plug, the wire end must not be holding it firmly. The wire end might snap on with a click but allows the terminal to float once on. Next, the cap can be turned into a self locking nut if you use a flat punch to distort the middle of the cap before install. Harold ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Wed Sep 10 20:07:31 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:07:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Grill Molding Message-ID: <2E7ED381A82B45849034565C5C488E60@chuck> Larry, Randall, Frank, et al, Larry Rausch originally asked about sources for the grill molding clips for the small mouth TR3. Mark Macy of Macy's Garage has asked me to tell you that he has had those molding joint covers in production since the first of this year. The dies have been made and the covers have been stamped. The laser welder has promised that the studs will be welded on the back by the end of the week, and then they need to go to the metal polisher for finishing. Mark expects to have these parts available on his website my mid to late October (this year). Additional questions should be addressed to Mark at 'mark at macysgarage.com'. Watch for a product announcement on his web site (http://www.macysgarage.com) in mid to late October. Mark had been a regular contributor to this list for many years. However, he has become very busy responding to direct questions from his website lately and is no longer able to keep up with the traffic here. Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ From 70TR6 at mindspring.com Wed Sep 10 20:40:55 2008 From: 70TR6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:40:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts? Message-ID: I was putting air in the spare tonight in preparation to leave for the TRials tomorrow morning and I got to wondering & worrying. Suppose you had a massive blowout of a tire on one of your Panasports or other new allow wheels and had to put an old steel wheel in it's place for a while. Would the lug nuts for the Panasports secure the steel wheel securely to the hub? I'm not planning on having a blowout and 215/60/16 tires aren't hard to find, but I wonder... Thoughts? Ashford Little '70 TR6 From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Sep 10 20:44:39 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 02:44:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts? Message-ID: <091120080244.979.48C8861700048745000003D32207021633970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Ashford Little <70TR6 at mindspring.com> > I was putting air in the spare tonight in preparation to leave for the > TRials tomorrow morning and I got to wondering & worrying. Suppose > you had a massive blowout of a tire on one of your Panasports or other > new allow wheels and had to put an old steel wheel in it's place for a > while. Would the lug nuts for the Panasports secure the steel wheel > securely to the hub? I always carry a set of stock lug nuts in case I need to use the steel wheel mounted spare in place of one of my alloys. Have a great trip. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From 70TR6 at mindspring.com Wed Sep 10 20:52:01 2008 From: 70TR6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:52:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <91826FC8-A0A3-4B2C-BBFD-DE40D534FD5B@mindspring.com> I doubt they will fit also, and I wonder how many folks driving around on their newer wheels have a set in the trunk? I know I didn't and I've not heard anyone caution about it, so let me be the first, second or hundredth. If you have a set of alloy wheels, but a steel one in the trunk, put 4 of those nut thingies somewhere in the car. This will guarantee that you never have to use them. Cheers and Dragons Away! Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Sep 10, 2008, at 10:48 PM, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 9/10/2008 10:41:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 70TR6 at mindspring.com > writes: > I was putting air in the spare tonight in preparation to leave for the > TRials tomorrow morning and I got to wondering & worrying. Suppose > you had a massive blowout of a tire on one of your Panasports or other > new allow wheels and had to put an old steel wheel in it's place for a > while. Would the lug nuts for the Panasports secure the steel wheel > securely to the hub? > > Not likely. Particularly if you're Panasports have shank type lug > nuts - some Panasports have tapered lug nuts which might work okay > if the taper matches the stock wheel nut taper. > This is why I have one set of 4 stock lug nuts in the boot of each > car that has aftermarket wheels and a stock spare. > > But don't worry - if you have a blow out on The Dragons Tail you'll > probly die in the crash anyway. > Just kidding - and wishing i was going. > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > > > > > > Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus > the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Sep 10 20:59:46 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:59:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts? In-Reply-To: <91826FC8-A0A3-4B2C-BBFD-DE40D534FD5B@mindspring.com> References: Message-ID: <48C85162.27907.1049D616@localhost> On 10 Sep 2008 at 22:52, Ashford Little wrote: > If you have a set of alloy wheels, but a steel one in the trunk, > put 4 of those nut thingies somewhere in the car. I keep a set of reg'lar lugnuts in the Spitfire. The GT6's Cosmics take reg'lar lugnuts anyway. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Sep 10 21:52:58 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 23:52:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] engine's turning? Message-ID: <000b01c913c1$e2145910$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hi, Haven't we previously agreed that the engine turns clockwise (when facing it from the car's front) and the distributor turns anticlockwise (when viewed from above?) Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 926 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tom628 at verizon.net Wed Sep 10 23:11:38 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 01:11:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anti squeal shims Message-ID: <003801c913cc$ded9c680$2f01a8c0@Toms> I've made up some anti squeal shims for the noisy front brakes on my '76 TR6, Right now, I have them as the same size and shape as the pads, with no cutouts (except holes for the pins, of course). I believe shims usually have a "D" shaped cutout slightly smaller than half the diameter of the piston. Are these cutouts necessary , or would a plain shim work as well? I'll cut them out if I have to, but it sure would be easier to try the plain version. My pads currently just have a wire snapped over each pad, apparently to stop vibration between the pins and pads. Anyone know if the '76 is supposed to also have the shims? BTW, pads and rotors are new, bedded per Brembo spec., and TRF anti squeal adhesive pads on the brake pads. Thanks for any info. Tom From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Thu Sep 11 06:04:25 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 06:04:25 Subject: [TR] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20080911060425.1e77f6da@pop.west.cox.net> The Panasports that I have use the same lug nuts as the steel wheels, that is the conical type. So I wouldn't worry about the lug nuts - If you have alloy wheels other than Panasports that use the shank to center the wheel and not the conical type, then you might want to think about taking a spare set if you have a steel wheel as a spare. With the reliability of todays radials, I don't eve take a spare with me, and in almost 30 years I have only had one incident involving a flat and even then it was slow enough to allow me to make it to safely to my destination. ****************original message**************** >I was putting air in the spare tonight in preparation to leave for the >TRials tomorrow morning and I got to wondering & worrying. Suppose >you had a massive blowout of a tire on one of your Panasports or other >new allow wheels and had to put an old steel wheel in it's place for a >while. Would the lug nuts for the Panasports secure the steel wheel >securely to the hub? Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Sep 11 08:46:51 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 10:46:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts? In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20080911060425.1e77f6da@pop.west.cox.net> References: Message-ID: <48C8F71B.13492.12D12EAB@localhost> On 11 Sep 2008 at 6:04, Barry Schwartz wrote: > in almost 30 years I have only had one incident involving a flat > and even then it was slow enough to allow me to make it to safely > to my destination. You are fortunate indeed that the carpenters in your neighborhood don't suffer from the dropsies. All the flats I've had over the last 20 years, admittedly not many, were caused by a nail or screw, sometimes in the tread, somtimes in the sidewall. While walking last night I picked up (with my hands, not my tires!) a loose 2 1/2-in wood screw from a street just 1/4 mile from my house. Some unknown beneficiary will thank me without knowing it, unless that beneficiary is me in which case I'll knowlingly thank myself. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Sep 11 08:48:22 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 07:48:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 engine timing In-Reply-To: <200809100742.32630.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200809100742.32630.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809110748o40dd9622q65dd0b370f97f7ed@mail.gmail.com> My method is similar to what Bob has described though I try to get the initial set-up at about 4* then use the vernier from there. Probably obvious but I'll mention that you want to set the points gap before you set the timing. My full (simple) sequence is: points gap, timing, carb sync, mixture adjustment & idle adjustment. The engine only needs to be hot for the last 2. This assumes you start with good clean compenents (plugs wires, etc.). From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Sep 11 08:58:59 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 07:58:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spark Plug Irritation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0809110758l458044b1if83692dac4f6f9e@mail.gmail.com> On 9/10/08, ZinkZ10C at aol.com wrote: > First... Ditto what Harold said about quotes. As for caps, I'm using the 'Champion' logo snap-on right angle plastic caps on both TRs. First set I got was NOS, the 2nd the repro from Moss. No difference. They go on with a reassuring loud snap and never come loose uninvited. Also, they connect to the (copper core) plug wire by screwing into the conductor rather than a crimped connection. Very easy and secure. Geo From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Sep 11 09:01:48 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 08:01:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] engine's turning? In-Reply-To: <000b01c913c1$e2145910$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000b01c913c1$e2145910$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809110801q2534925ap9a1a1f0ee80cbeca@mail.gmail.com> Those are the directions I've found work best. On 9/10/08, dorpaul wrote: > ...the engine turns clockwise... and the distributor turns anticlockwise From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 11 09:24:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 08:24:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts? In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20080911060425.1e77f6da@pop.west.cox.net> References: <3.0.4.16.20080911060425.1e77f6da@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <8F573AFF66C8437A8A5DABEDD83C450B@jdnet.deere.com> > in almost 30 years I have > only had one incident involving a flat and even then it was slow enough to > allow me to make it to safely to my destination. You've sure had a lot better luck than I have, then. I've even had two rapid leaks on the same day! First one looked to be caused by a 1/4" bolt (judging by the size of the hole, the bolt fell out); second one was because I didn't dodge the flying debris on the freeway quite fast enough (Honda off my right front lost his bumper in an accident and a chrome strip chased me across two lanes to slash a sidewall). Maybe I just drive farther than you do Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 11 09:29:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 08:29:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anti squeal shims In-Reply-To: <003801c913cc$ded9c680$2f01a8c0@Toms> References: <003801c913cc$ded9c680$2f01a8c0@Toms> Message-ID: > I believe shims usually > have > a "D" shaped cutout slightly smaller than half the diameter of the > piston. > Are these cutouts necessary , or would a plain shim work as well? I don't have any experience, Tom, but I believe the cutout is an important part of the squeal suppression. I've owned a car that had only a cutout (notch) right on the lip of the caliper piston, with no other anti-squeal measures, and it's brakes never squealed. The service manual mentioned that it was important to turn the notch to the correct angle. Of course, that doesn't mean you couldn't try it without the cutout. Randall From jmerone at rocketmail.com Thu Sep 11 09:52:53 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 08:52:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Lug nuts Message-ID: <876869.20128.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Minilites also won't take the standard lug nuts, so there's four oldies but goodies that ride along in my toolbox just in case the old redline spare needs to go on. And don't forget to carry along the two kinds of wrenches that you'll need to take one wheel off and put the other on. Joe Merone CF18928 South Burlington, VT Wishing I could go to 6-Pack From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Sep 11 11:03:40 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:03:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anti squeal shims References: <003801c913cc$ded9c680$2f01a8c0@Toms> Message-ID: <000601c91430$57dd33b0$2f01a8c0@Toms> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'TR List'" Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 11:29 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Anti squeal shims >> I believe shims usually >> have >> a "D" shaped cutout slightly smaller than half the diameter of the >> piston. >> Are these cutouts necessary , or would a plain shim work as well? > > I don't have any experience, Tom, but I believe the cutout is an important > part of the squeal suppression. I've owned a car that had only a cutout > (notch) right on the lip of the caliper piston, with no other anti-squeal > measures, and it's brakes never squealed. The service manual mentioned > that > it was important to turn the notch to the correct angle. > > Of course, that doesn't mean you couldn't try it without the cutout. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > I can see in the Haynes manual, the shims are arrowed as directional. What > I'm not clear on is whether the cutout exceeds the (half) diameter of the > piston, or if the entire D-shaped opening is inside the rim of the piston; > i.e., does the piston only make contact with a portion of the metal shim? Thanks Randall. Tom From trglory at comcast.net Thu Sep 11 11:26:37 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:26:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anti squeal shims In-Reply-To: <000601c91430$57dd33b0$2f01a8c0@Toms> Message-ID: <94EBED6DFD304AC1B59AC45F6C99DE92@newbox> Tom; You old retired guys don't have anything better to do so install them without the cutouts and see what happens. If they still shriek, pull them out as start all over. Let me know how you make out so that when I do the job, I can do it right the first time. :^) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Note Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:04 PM To: Randall; 'TR List' Subject: Re: [TR] Anti squeal shims ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'TR List'" Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 11:29 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Anti squeal shims >> I believe shims usually >> have >> a "D" shaped cutout slightly smaller than half the diameter of the >> piston. >> Are these cutouts necessary , or would a plain shim work as well? From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Sep 11 11:37:15 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:37:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Anti squeal shims References: <94EBED6DFD304AC1B59AC45F6C99DE92@newbox> Message-ID: <000b01c91435$08d52b60$2f01a8c0@Toms> OK Joe; I might just do that, esp. since I may not have time to do much more before the CPTC summer picnic this Sun. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Laurito" To: "'Tom Note'" ; "'Randall'" ; "'TR List'" Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:26 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Anti squeal shims > Tom; > > You old retired guys don't have anything better to do so install them > without the cutouts and see what happens. If they still shriek, pull them > out as start all over. Let me know how you make out so that when I do the > job, I can do it right the first time. :^) > > Joe From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Sep 11 12:11:34 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 14:11:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lug nuts In-Reply-To: <876869.20128.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48C92716.16458.138C9E30@localhost> On 11 Sep 2008 at 8:52, Joe Merone wrote: > And don't forget to carry along the two kinds of wrenches > that you'll need to take one wheel off and put the other on. A clockwise one and a counter-clockwise one, obviously. (Actually, the other way around.) Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From DLylis at aol.com Thu Sep 11 17:47:27 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 19:47:27 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A front wings Message-ID: I am in the process of preparing my front wings for paint. A lot is done on this car and I have left the "known to be ugly" front wings until last. Turns out the drivers side is uglier than expected. What is the possibility that there is one (or a pair) available? Please don't sent me to the big three. I am already over budget. I am hoping that the tooth fairy has a sister called the fender fairy and one is going to show up cheap. BTW If I may share a technique that I have never seen before. Slather on the bondo and stick a piece of 22 gauge sheet metal in it over the hole. trowel the back side and coat with undercoat. Then put a finish coat of bondo over the metal and sand to a respectable finish. Check it with a magnet and it appears to be OK. Take it to the soda blaster and you get your fender back in a box. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Thu Sep 11 19:10:40 2008 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 18:10:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 engine timing In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0809110748o40dd9622q65dd0b370f97f7ed@mail.gmail.com> References: <200809100742.32630.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <7bb181af0809110748o40dd9622q65dd0b370f97f7ed@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000501c91474$5fe2c9f0$1fa85dd0$@rr.com> I just installed a Pertronix in my TR4A. So, is the timing process any different for an electronic ignition? Johnnie -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+pdonnel1=san.rr.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+pdonnel1=san.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 7:48 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 engine timing My method is similar to what Bob has described though I try to get the initial set-up at about 4* then use the vernier from there. Probably obvious but I'll mention that you want to set the points gap before you set the timing. My full (simple) sequence is: points gap, timing, carb sync, mixture adjustment & idle adjustment. The engine only needs to be hot for the last 2. This assumes you start with good clean compenents (plugs wires, etc.). This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pdonnel1 at san.rr.com http://www.team.net/archive From adcronin at ameritech.net Thu Sep 11 20:34:13 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 19:34:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <141268.87839.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 9/11 Listers: Several days back (while on vacation) there were several submissions on the 2 oil galley plugs in each end of the block and the one in the head. I am undertaking a full rebuild and upgrading of my motor and would like to know how you guys remove these plugs before I do something I might regret! Any help would be appreciated! Dan C From thomasb at queensu.ca Fri Sep 12 07:41:29 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 09:41:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 grill molding In-Reply-To: <937FD3CB476A4FDCBCE7E45B07DCE66D@larry> References: <937FD3CB476A4FDCBCE7E45B07DCE66D@larry> Message-ID: <0K7300H3R4S09150@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi Larry, At 03:41 PM 09/09/2008, you wrote: >Hi: I've just found the molding that goes around the grill for a small >mouth TR3. But still missing the two clips that hold the ends together >can someone show me what these clips look like and if they are available >and also how is the molding attached to the front apron, what type of >clip? .Larry My 1956 TR3 when purchased in 1975, had the grill surround but was missing the two joiner clips. I went to a wrecking yard and looked for windshield join clips that were of a similar size and shape, found two - I don't recall on what and used slotted pan-head screws to mount them. Jump forward 30+ years and a friend who in the late 1980's ran TRF Canada out of Niagara Falls Ontario, gave me a couple of boxes of stuff he'd collected to redo his 1956 TR3 - now long gone. Included was the complete grill surround with joiners and clips. I can probably dig these out and supply pics if you think this would be useful. Cheers, Brian Brian S. Thomas email: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point, R R 1 office:613-533-2228 Wolfe Island, Ontario fax: 613-533-2168 CANADA K0H 2Y0 home: 613-385-1947 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 12 09:24:59 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 11:24:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [Fot] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <141268.87839.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <141268.87839.qm@web81301.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 11 Sep 2008, A Daniel Cronin wrote: > 9/11 Listers: Several days back (while on vacation) there were several submissions on the 2 oil galley plugs in each end of the block and the one in the head. I am undertaking a full rebuild and upgrading of my motor and would like to know how you guys remove these plugs before I do something I might regret! Any help would be appreciated! Dan C "The Book" shows the full oiling system schematic. The TRF parts book shows all the plugs - they're pretty easy to find. That said, there are various plugs in the block. Some are pipe thread little plugs at least two are plugs that are threaded into the block and then peened over (or cut flush) and one (in the back of the block) uses a machine thread - it's pretty much a set screw. But a good machine shop should "know what to do". rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From adcronin at ameritech.net Fri Sep 12 12:07:37 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 11:07:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 grill molding Message-ID: <1155.4072.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> You might look at early 70's VW Bugs for possible chrome grill clip match or close to it on the rear window trim and perhaps other locations. Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: Brian Thomas To: Larry Rausch Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 9:41:29 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 grill molding Hi Larry, At 03:41 PM 09/09/2008, you wrote: >Hi: I've just found the molding that goes around the grill for a small >mouth TR3. But still missing the two clips that hold the ends together >can someone show me what these clips look like and if they are available >and also how is the molding attached to the front apron, what type of >clip? .Larry My 1956 TR3 when purchased in 1975, had the grill surround but was missing the two joiner clips. I went to a wrecking yard and looked for windshield join clips that were of a similar size and shape, found two - I don't recall on what and used slotted pan-head screws to mount them. Jump forward 30+ years and a friend who in the late 1980's ran TRF Canada out of Niagara Falls Ontario, gave me a couple of boxes of stuff he'd collected to redo his 1956 TR3 - now long gone. Included was the complete grill surround with joiners and clips. I can probably dig these out and supply pics if you think this would be useful. Cheers, Brian Brian S. Thomas email: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point, R R 1 office:613-533-2228 Wolfe Island, Ontario fax: 613-533-2168 CANADA K0H 2Y0 home: 613-385-1947 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From dwillner at ptd.net Fri Sep 12 12:26:51 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 14:26:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 grill molding References: <1155.4072.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01c91505$210427b0$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> You know what else might work, the later Spifires have a chrome molding around the windshield with two "filler" clips, top and bottom, that might fit...still available Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: "A Daniel Cronin" To: "Brian Thomas" ; "Larry Rausch" Cc: Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 2:07 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 grill molding > You might look at early 70's VW Bugs for possible chrome grill clip match > or > close to it on the rear window trim and perhaps other locations. > > Planning & > Development Services > A. Daniel Cronin > 248 761-2673 > > > > ----- Original Message > ---- > From: Brian Thomas > To: Larry Rausch > > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, > September 12, 2008 9:41:29 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 grill molding > > Hi Larry, > At 03:41 PM 09/09/2008, you wrote: >>Hi: I've just found the molding that goes > around the grill for a small >>mouth TR3. But still missing the two clips that > hold the ends together >>can someone show me what these clips look like and if > they are available >>and also how is the molding attached to the front apron, > what type of >>clip? .Larry > > My 1956 TR3 when purchased in 1975, had the grill > surround but was > missing the two joiner clips. I went to a wrecking yard and > looked > for windshield join clips that were of a similar size and shape, > found two - I don't recall on what and used slotted pan-head screws > to mount > them. > > Jump forward 30+ years and a friend who in the late 1980's ran TRF > Canada out of Niagara Falls Ontario, gave me a couple of boxes of > stuff he'd > collected to redo his 1956 TR3 - now long gone. Included > was the complete > grill surround with joiners and clips. I can > probably dig these out and > supply pics if you think this would be useful. > > Cheers, > > Brian > > > Brian S. > Thomas email: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca > Holliday Point, R R 1 > office:613-533-2228 > Wolfe Island, Ontario fax: 613-533-2168 > CANADA K0H > 2Y0 home: 613-385-1947 > toys: 54 TR2, > 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 > Ferguson TEA20 From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Fri Sep 12 12:51:43 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 11:51:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 engine timing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002e01c91508$9a1c7e10$6801a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Johnnie, I installed Pertronix in my 4A last year, and have had no problems with it. Timing it was very easy - follow the book method for lining up the rotor with #1 tube, then fine tune. I find using a strobe is worthless since the advance weights start providing advance at a very low RPM, so I get it close then adjust by ear. Starts first time every time, idles beautifully, and pulls great right thru 5000 RPM. Make sure the PCV valve is in place and the oil filler cap is on tight. These really affect idle RPM. Brian 67 TR4a ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 18:10:40 -0700 From: "John & Pat Donnelly" Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 engine timing To: "'Geo Hahn'" , Message-ID: <000501c91474$5fe2c9f0$1fa85dd0$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I just installed a Pertronix in my TR4A. So, is the timing process any different for an electronic ignition? Johnnie From globalrc at mindspring.com Fri Sep 12 14:09:42 2008 From: globalrc at mindspring.com (Dan Dougherty Sr.) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 16:09:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Loping TR-7 Message-ID: <2883318.1221250182783.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> At idle it lopes. Varoom....low idle, Varoom.....low idle, etc. Suggestions? Dan From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 12 14:42:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 13:42:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Loping TR-7 In-Reply-To: <2883318.1221250182783.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <2883318.1221250182783.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: > At idle it lopes. Varoom....low idle, Varoom.....low idle, etc. Switch back to the stock cam ? From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri Sep 12 15:55:44 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 14:55:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] oil pump/oil pressure assumptions/guesses Message-ID: <483706.93254.qm@web59610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> some time ago i removed distributor in order to turn it so vacuum retard would not rub block. Took out skew gear (which was prolly my big mistake) to turn so slot to distributor would be changed appropriately. Immediately on first start I had zero oil pressure. (I'd forgotten that turning the skew gear also dis-engaged the oil pump.) Not realizing that....I've since taken out oil pump as well as taken out oil guage and all appear to be normal. Pump is within specs except for vane to rotating cylinder clearance which is roughly .006. When I submerge the pickup of pump in oil and spin with drill.........nothing is pumped up and it seems to just be stirring the oil. Today i fit the pump with shaft to engine again........tight against and found that I and can turn the vane without making contact with the skew gear. Looking up into the skew gear from the bottom there still is the groove and the pump shaft still fits in the groove of the skew gear with out the pump body attached. however when the post/vane and pump body together are shoved up tight the shaft turns without catching the groove. needless to say I've ordered a new oil pump but my questions are: When the motor first ran i'm assuming the skew gear was not aligned with the oil pump and spun on the oil pump shaft resulting in either grinding some off.............or engaging and shearing a section off. I can't tell from looking at the top of the shaft if it looks sheared, its straight. Is the skew gear possibly not seated as low as it should be? If so then the distributor should have been impossible to seat tightly. I'm stumped but obviously I've found out why I have no oil pressure. I'm just wondering what happened. When the new oil pump comes many questions will be answered because i'll be able to compare it to the old pump (shaft length and fitment). just an odd occurance and i'm losing precious driving time before winter storage. grrrrrrr lol any comments or ideas are welcome. gary nafziger From DLylis at aol.com Fri Sep 12 16:53:56 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 18:53:56 EDT Subject: [TR] oil pump/oil pressure assumptions/guesses Message-ID: Gary, I have posted this information before, and if it was to you, I am sorry. I helped a friend rebuild his newly rebuilt TR motor. No Oil Pressure. He was puzzled because the new drive gear and shaft assembly was slightly longer that the old. After careful study I found that the pin though the gear assembly securing it to the shaft had sheared and allowed the shaft to move up in the gear assembly making the whole assembly shorter and not able to reach the oil pump shaft. My only conclusion is that when the dizzy was installed the tine did not line up in the slot so brute force was applied. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From ZoboHerald at aol.com Fri Sep 12 17:51:22 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 19:51:22 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 grill molding Message-ID: In a message dated 9/12/2008 2:17:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, adcronin at ameritech.net writes: You might look at early 70's VW Bugs for possible chrome grill clip match or close to it on the rear window trim and perhaps other locations. ==AM== Interesting thought. What are the dimensions of the clip? There's also the finisher clips on MkIV and 1500 Spitfire windshield trim, and that of early Herald coupes and convertibles (not that the latter are all that easy to find, but....). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Sep 12 18:26:40 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 00:26:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content Message-ID: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Hello, everyone. Am building a garage this summer (ehr, Fall, nearly) to house my TR3A and other cars. It'll be a Triumph to get this thing done (lbc content???) To the ones who wanted pictures of the post&beam metal socket system, can you remind me who you are? Question: I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the batteries stopped charging. Took it back. Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went up in smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little headache. Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger version, probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. People talk up Dewalt, but have no experience with them. Help????!!!! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Sep 12 18:32:20 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 19:32:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5A4174B493164776B775EF9EFB364BB4@KARL> Milwaukee DeWalt Or keep buying and replacing toy saws > I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the batteries > stopped charging. Took it back. > Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went up in > smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little headache. > > Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger version, > probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. People talk up > Dewalt, but have no experience with them. > > Help????!!!! > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire From adcronin at ameritech.net Fri Sep 12 19:18:54 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 18:18:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location Message-ID: <887315.32390.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Listers: Am rebuilding a 55 TR2 and will be installing a Flex a Lite 1050 cfm, 9 amp load, 10 blade, 12" diam. electric fan with variable speed control kit and manual on/off switch on an aluminum radiator without crank hole. Radiator effective area is 11 1/2" wide x 18" high x 2 1/2" deep. Stock Tr2-3b radiators were about 17" x12" x3" and the crank hole was up from the bottom of the fins about 6 1/2" and the stock fan appears to span the entire width of the stock radiator, some 13" diameter, so it is pulling air into the bottom 2/3's of the radiator. The grill opening on the 2 starts just under the crank hole and has an opening at the radiator face of about 11" high and averages 13" in width. It appears as if the fan is pulling half its air from under the front apron lower skirt (the 6 1/2" below the crank hole) and the other half from the lower portion of the grill opening. It then seems that the "ram" effect of air being forced thru the upper 70% of the radiator when under way completes the cooling tasks. Given that the fan I will be using is slim enough to be positioned at any height behind the radiator (puller) without interference from the cross brace connecting the spring towers, where would you think would be the most desirable location to install the fan. Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 12 19:22:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 18:22:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content In-Reply-To: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: > Any recommendations on this tool? Unless it absolutely has to be cordless (eg no power anywhere), I'd suggest a corded model. Cheaper, lighter, more powerful, more rugged. And while a cord is definitely a hassle, so is having to deal with batteries. If you are a long way from power, get a heavy gauge cord to get close to your work area (eg 100' 12 AWG) and then a shorter, lighter cord to let you move around. Most saws don't require a safety ground, so the light cord can also be only two wires. My cheap B&D corded circular saw is pushing 30 years old and still cuts fine. I was ripping some 3/4" OSB with it just the other day, and it will still cut as fast as I care to push it. It's been apart for cleaning, lubrication and brushes a few times over the decades, but otherwise has been trouble-free. And I've never had to climb off a ladder to change a battery Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Sep 12 20:15:53 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 21:15:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <351DB291981A4D06B12FE105D37AA7DF@mikeslaptop> I like Dewalt tools - I have several of them. They are made by Black & Decker now and I also have a B&D 18V cordless drill that has been very reliable. However, my advice is to buy a corded circular saw if you are doing that much construction - the battery powered saws are just good for light duty, in my humble opinion. Bob the Builder > > I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the batteries > stopped charging. Took it back. > Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went up in > smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little headache. > > Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger version, > probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. People talk up > Dewalt, but have no experience with them. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 12 20:36:27 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 21:36:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <351DB291981A4D06B12FE105D37AA7DF@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <004901c9154a$0b45b250$1f00000a@Ranteer.local> no. please tell me dewalt has not sold out. is nothing sacred anymore?????????? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: ; Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 9:15 PM Subject: Re: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content >I like Dewalt tools - I have several of them. They are made by Black & > Decker now and I also have a B&D 18V cordless drill that has been very > reliable. However, my advice is to buy a corded circular saw if you are > doing that much construction - the battery powered saws are just good for > light duty, in my humble opinion. > > Bob the Builder > >> >> I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the batteries >> stopped charging. Took it back. >> Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went up in >> smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little headache. >> >> Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger version, >> probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. People talk up >> Dewalt, but have no experience with them. From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Fri Sep 12 20:54:51 2008 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 03:54:51 +0100 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content In-Reply-To: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <48CB2B7B.1040100@virgin.net> Hi Terry, Here in UK Dewalt have a very strong following by proffessional craftsmen. This usually a good indication of a products' worth. They do seem expensive but following the idea that you always get the quality that you pay for they maybe not as expensive as first thought. Makita had exceptional quality and price when trying to capture world markets about 30 years ago I did a lot of research at the time as I almost took up the UK sales managers job for Makita (Xerox won out in the end). No experience on the modern Makita power tools although I would say they rank below Dewalt. I would look out for Lithium Iron battery powered cordless tools. These do not have the memory effect that has been the bane of all cordless tools in the past more expensive but cheaper in the long run. Interestingly our UK equivalent to Home depot have cheap Chinese imported items for a fraction of the cost of branded ones. I bought an angle grinder for the equivalent of less than 10 dollars having the thought that when it wears out throw it away. 10 years later it still works fine, just lucky maybe. Regards Adrian TR4A CT64306 O terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Hello, everyone. > > Am building a garage this summer (ehr, Fall, nearly) to house my TR3A and other cars. > > It'll be a Triumph to get this thing done (lbc content???) > > To the ones who wanted pictures of the post&beam metal socket system, can you remind me who you are? > > Question: > > I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the batteries stopped charging. Took it back. > Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went up in smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little headache. > > Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger version, probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. People talk up Dewalt, but have no experience with them. > > Help????!!!! > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Sep 12 21:47:47 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:47:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location References: <887315.32390.qm@web81306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004f01c91553$7d8448a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Dan, I know nothing from experience, however, it seems that I have read that a 'puller' operates best when it's 1" back from the radiator. Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "A Daniel Cronin" To: "Friends of Triumph" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 9:18 PM Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location > Listers: > Am rebuilding a 55 TR2 and will be installing a Flex a Lite 1050 cfm, > 9 amp load, 10 blade, 12" diam. electric fan with variable speed control > kit > and manual on/off switch on an aluminum radiator without crank hole. > Radiator > effective area is 11 1/2" wide x 18" high x 2 1/2" deep. Stock Tr2-3b > radiators were about 17" x12" x3" and the crank hole was up from the > bottom of > the fins about 6 1/2" and the stock fan appears to span the entire width > of > the stock radiator, some 13" diameter, so it is pulling air into the > bottom > 2/3's of the radiator. The grill opening on the 2 starts just under the > crank > hole and has an opening at the radiator face of about 11" high and > averages > 13" in width. It appears as if the fan is pulling half its air from under > the > front apron lower skirt (the 6 1/2" below the crank hole) and the other > half > from the lower portion of the grill opening. It then seems that the "ram" > effect of air being forced thru the upper 70% > of the radiator when under way completes the cooling tasks. > > Given that the > fan I will be using is slim enough to be positioned at any height behind > the > radiator (puller) without interference from the cross brace connecting the > spring towers, where would you think would be the most desirable location > to > install the fan. > Planning & Development Services > A. Daniel Cronin > 248 > 761-2673 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 926 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Sep 12 22:10:35 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:10:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net><351DB291981A4D06B12FE105D37AA7DF@mikeslaptop> <004901c9154a$0b45b250$1f00000a@Ranteer.local> Message-ID: <459E60D9FE224164BB827D8DED961F9D@KARL> Many years ago - this is NOT a new happening. FWIW, Black & Decker used to make fine tools (1950's - 1960's). Dewalt is still pretty good stuff. And I definitely second (or third) Randall (et al)'s suggestion to buy a corded circular saw. I'm on my second Skilsaw, this one having 32 years on it and it owes me nothing at this point - but it keeps on running great. I have a corded Sawzall too - battery stuff just doesn't have the endurance of the corded models, and I personally don't ever need to use them that far from an outlet. Karl > no. please tell me dewalt has not sold out. is nothing sacred > anymore?????????? From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 12 22:11:54 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 22:11:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content In-Reply-To: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <173D1F6C93794AFA84E66C43C91DA2E4@sniffer> If you are building something, use 110v. I have a real nice cordless Milwaukee Sawsall that is high quality and great for a few cuts but when you are doing a lot of repetitive work... Plug it in! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 6:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content Hello, everyone. Am building a garage this summer (ehr, Fall, nearly) to house my TR3A and other cars. It'll be a Triumph to get this thing done (lbc content???) To the ones who wanted pictures of the post&beam metal socket system, can you remind me who you are? Question: I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the batteries stopped charging. Took it back. Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went up in smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little headache. Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger version, probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. People talk up Dewalt, but have no experience with them. Help????!!!! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1668 - Release Date: 9/12/2008 2:18 PM From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 12 22:38:01 2008 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:38:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content In-Reply-To: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2B86F143-3DFB-4D3D-9D03-DEFB22EE0581@sbcglobal.net> I'm a general contractor and I always buy Makita circular saws for my carpenters. The only problems I've ever had were worn out triggers or worn out cords. Maybe I'll clean out my garage this weekend so I can get to my spitfire and see if it will start. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO On Sep 12, 2008, at 7:26 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Hello, everyone. > > Am building a garage this summer (ehr, Fall, nearly) to house my > TR3A and other cars. > > It'll be a Triumph to get this thing done (lbc content???) > > To the ones who wanted pictures of the post&beam metal socket > system, can you remind me who you are? > > Question: > > I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the > batteries stopped charging. Took it back. > Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went > up in smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little > headache. > > Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger > version, probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. > People talk up Dewalt, but have no experience with them. > > Help????!!!! > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as bberger720 at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tochilds at bellsouth.net Sat Sep 13 05:52:44 2008 From: tochilds at bellsouth.net (Tony Childs) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 07:52:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content In-Reply-To: <2B86F143-3DFB-4D3D-9D03-DEFB22EE0581@sbcglobal.net> References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <2B86F143-3DFB-4D3D-9D03-DEFB22EE0581@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: I agree with all the comments about corded vs cordless tools, but the quality of the saw blades (and using the right blade for the job) helps in both type saws - buy the best blades you can! Tony Childs 72 Spitfire Anderson, SC -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+tochilds=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+tochilds=bellsouth.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Berger Bob Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 12:38 AM To: terryrs at comcast.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content I'm a general contractor and I always buy Makita circular saws for my carpenters. The only problems I've ever had were worn out triggers or worn out cords. Maybe I'll clean out my garage this weekend so I can get to my spitfire and see if it will start. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO On Sep 12, 2008, at 7:26 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Hello, everyone. > > Am building a garage this summer (ehr, Fall, nearly) to house my > TR3A and other cars. > > It'll be a Triumph to get this thing done (lbc content???) > > To the ones who wanted pictures of the post&beam metal socket > system, can you remind me who you are? > > Question: > > I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the > batteries stopped charging. Took it back. > Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went > up in smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little > headache. > > Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger > version, probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. > People talk up Dewalt, but have no experience with them. > > Help????!!!! > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as bberger720 at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as tochilds at bellsouth.net http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 13 08:52:50 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 14:52:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content In-Reply-To: References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: Until my son usurped it I was using my father"s Craftsman circular saw. It was corded of course. Perfect performance for 50 years. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Sep 13 08:54:41 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 08:54:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill In-Reply-To: <000401c8f5e3$3fba62a0$cb4a7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <000301c8f5d7$d449a8b0$6401a8c0@sniffer> <000401c8f5e3$3fba62a0$cb4a7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: A follow-up question if you please: The flat grill has installed very nicely on the '58 with a little re-work of the apron that needed to be done. However, the bottom of the grill does not come all the way out to the edge of the apron. From the shape of the grill edge it looks as if it should overlap the edge of the apron opening all the way around but to do this one would have to bend the grill left-to-right. The curvature at the top and bottom of the apron opening are perfectly aligned so I am wondering now where the correct placement of the grill lies? Comments and pictures would be most helpful.... Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: FRED E THOMAS [mailto:frede.thomas2 at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 9:36 PM To: Bill Beecher Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Grill Far East price impression after market @#$#@, should be concaved, your grill opening I'm sure is just fine, original is very hard to find, might have to buy a used have it refinished, cost is more, what's wrong with your original one. "FT" ============================================================================ =========================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Beecher" To: Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 10:14 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Grill > Hello List, > > Just unboxed my new grill to find it is perfectly flat. The old grill > is sort of concave and fits the opening in the apron just fine. > > It the correct TR3A grill supposed to be flat or is this just the way it > ships and you shape it to fit the opening? Or, has my front apron been > so > re-worked that the opening is 2" shorter than it should be? > > Thx, > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is > called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.12/1589 - Release Date: 8/3/2008 1:00 PM From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Sep 13 19:01:11 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 21:01:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] wiring 3A Message-ID: <008501c91605$622354e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I am wiring up my TR3A without the front apron for now (I am doing tests) to the driver that I am rebuilding. Although I've got several wiring diagrams, the stock wiring diagrams shows the same wires going to both left front and right front side of the car in many instances. For example, the left side horn has it's own wires, and the right side horn has it's own wires, however, the electrical bullets seem to 'bounce back left and then right side' even when they already have connectivity between sides. My thinking is that the stock diagram, and proably the stock wiring does this so the vehicles are both LHD and RHD. And of course, the same harness was used for both. My question is do I have to do it? I have lost one little sub-harness and was going to 'make it from scratch' since its only a couple of wires. Also, why is there a black wire going to the headlights? My diagram shows only two wires go to the headlights? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 926 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Sep 13 19:15:57 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 21:15:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shims, part II Message-ID: <004901c91607$719a2780$2f01a8c0@Toms> I recently mentioned here an embarrassingly loud brake squeal in our '76 TR6. I made up some shims out of 0.032" sheet steel I had saved from an old CD player (pack rat syndrome). I did not cut out the "D" section, and installed them behind the pads, leaving the so-called anti-squeal gel (or whatever) pad still on the back of the brake pads. Took it for a pretty good ride this AM , braking in all the ways which had been causing the piglet noises, and could not get a trace of a squeal. Couple of observations: The stick-on anti-squeal pads, which had been effective for about 20 miles, had an impression of the brake piston essentially completely thru the pad so that the piston had been making direct contact with the metal backing of the brake pad. I had used the brakes fairly hard during the bedding in process for the new Porterfield pads and Brembo rotors, but I had hoped the gel pads would not melt away like that. Also, I'm still in the dark as to whether metal anti-squeal shims were elimimated for '76. Ours did not have them. Anyone know? Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 13 19:50:36 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 18:50:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] FS: 66 Herald ragtop on Los Angeles Craig's list Message-ID: <20080914015037.SJE9828.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Seen on Craig's list. Don't know anything else about it, but probably could take a look if someone is interested. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/839648407.html From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 13 20:17:26 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 19:17:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] wiring 3A In-Reply-To: <008501c91605$622354e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080914021726.LJCX12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > My thinking is that the > stock diagram, and proably the stock wiring does this so the > vehicles are both LHD and RHD. And of course, the same > harness was used for both. Just so. > My question is do I have to do it? Only one of the "cross-over" wires winds up being unused on a LHD car, which is the green/red wire. You don't need to have that one. The green/white and green/brown wires are used, so something is not going to work properly if you leave those out. > Also, why is there a black wire going to the headlights? My > diagram shows only two wires go to the headlights? The black wire is a ground wire, not shown on the diagram. But I strongly suggest using it (it goes to a ground clip on the body, behind the horns on each side) as the US-spec headlight bulbs are not grounded to the buckets, and the buckets are not securely grounded to the body. IOW, your headlights won't work right without it. I've attached a copy of a factory wiring diagram, modified (sort of) for LHD. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR3A LHD SCHEMATIC MODIFIED FROM PRACTICAL HINTS 4TH ED.JPG] From triumphs at consolidated.net Sat Sep 13 23:04:33 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 00:04:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] WTB TR3 Reservoir and associated parts needed Message-ID: Anyone parting out a TR3A, I am looking for a master cylinder brake fluid reservoir can and the cap and hopefully, but not necessarily, the two pipes coming out of the bottom. Contact me off list if you have this available. Thanks Ken Gano From banc8004 at comcast.net Sun Sep 14 01:53:35 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 03:53:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dan, While you consider where to put your electric fan, you may want to read through this study by some Sunbeam enthusiasts. Over three summers they examined, measured, and repeated every aspect of their cars' cooling system, trying many things and settling on the few that they found actually made the difference. While their cars are slightly different, I think the lessons may be transferable to a Triumph. They reach a conclusion on electric fans, for example, that I would not have anticipated: pushers are best! Fans with few big blades move most air. Thin 'turbine' fans are to be avoided. The distance from the fan to the shroud was optimised, as was the distance from fan blade to shroud. The optimal measurements they report might help you. http://www.teae.org/cooling/cooling_article.html Cheers, Brian TR4 1963 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 14 04:17:11 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 06:17:11 EDT Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location Message-ID: I mounted a Kenlowe fan on my TR3 ahead of the radiator. I still have my crankaft fan. Mike Moore ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From thomasb at queensu.ca Sun Sep 14 06:56:58 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 08:56:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 grill molding Message-ID: <0K7600IFJRZCQ960@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi Larry, At 11:26 AM 2008-09-12, Larry Rausch wrote: >Hi: Thank you for replying a picture or two would be very helpful so >I'd know what I'm looking for I've also thought about doing the same >as you but it would be helpful to know what the correct parts are. I >attended the Watkins Glen Triumph event last weekend hoping to see >TR3's but mine was the only one in town out of probably better than >five hundred Triumphs. Thanks Larry Attached are the pics I took of the grill surround hardware and join strip I received from my friend. This is the first time I actually have looked at this stuff and was a little disappointed to find only one join strip present and looking suspiciously like something someone had fabricated! I had planned to use the join strips on our 3 - oh well! Anyway, I've also included a few shots of our TR3 with the windshield moulding used as the join strip. As the pics are a little fuzzy, I did some artwork to give you the dimensions of the hardware and join strips. I've copied the TRIUMPH List on this in case there is someone else out there in need of this info. Email me and I'll send the pics and drawings to you. Cheers, Brian >-----Original Message----- >From: Brian Thomas [mailto:thomasb at queensu.ca] >Sent: Friday, September 12, 2008 9:41 AM >To: Larry Rausch >Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 grill molding > >Hi Larry, >At 03:41 PM 09/09/2008, you wrote: >>Hi: I've just found the molding that goes around the grill for a small >>mouth TR3. But still missing the two clips that hold the ends together >>can someone show me what these clips look like and if they are available >>and also how is the molding attached to the front apron, what type of >>clip? ..Larry >My 1956 TR3 when purchased in 1975, had the grill surround but was >missing the two joiner clips. I went to a wrecking yard and looked >for windshield join clips that were of a similar size and shape, >found two - I don't recall on what and used slotted pan-head screws >to mount them. >Jump forward 30+ years and a friend who in the late 1980's ran TRF >Canada out of Niagara Falls Ontario, gave me a couple of boxes of >stuff he'd collected to redo his 1956 TR3 - now long gone. Included >was the complete grill surround with joiners and clips. I can >probably dig these out and supply pics if you think this would be useful. >Cheers, > >Brian Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point work: 613-533-2228 R R 1 fax: 613-385-1948 Wolfe Island, Ontario home: 613-385-1947 K0H 2Y0 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Sun Sep 14 07:29:22 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 09:29:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content In-Reply-To: <2B86F143-3DFB-4D3D-9D03-DEFB22EE0581@sbcglobal.net> References: <091320080026.20328.48CB08C0000DDB1D00004F6822120592149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <2B86F143-3DFB-4D3D-9D03-DEFB22EE0581@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <10AB46697E124FC4A12FC32C9D3D9875@CarlPC> I have had mixed results with the battery powered tools. Drills and small hand-held tools seem to work ok. The circular saw seems to draw too much power to last long. ok for a few cuts on a 2x4 but anything more.... nope. my suggestion is to get a wired saw for this job - or even try to find a decent 10" or larger radial arm or miter saw (used) that can handle the thicknesses you need. Carl (BTDT) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Berger Bob" To: Cc: Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 12:38 AM Subject: Re: [TR] cordless power tools--some lbc content > I'm a general contractor and I always buy Makita circular saws for my > carpenters. The only problems I've ever had were worn out triggers > or worn out cords. > > Maybe I'll clean out my garage this weekend so I can get to my > spitfire and see if it will start. > > Berger Bob > 78 Spitfire > St. Louis, MO > > > > > On Sep 12, 2008, at 7:26 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > >> Hello, everyone. >> >> Am building a garage this summer (ehr, Fall, nearly) to house my >> TR3A and other cars. >> >> It'll be a Triumph to get this thing done (lbc content???) >> >> To the ones who wanted pictures of the post&beam metal socket >> system, can you remind me who you are? >> >> Question: >> >> I picked up a Craftsman circular saw. Within 3 weeks, the >> batteries stopped charging. Took it back. >> Next picked up a Ryobi circular saw. After 11 2x8 rafters, it went >> up in smoke. Took it back to Home Depot, who gave me very little >> headache. >> >> Any recommendations on this tool? Am leaning toward a stronger >> version, probably a Makita, but little literature seems available. >> People talk up Dewalt, but have no experience with them. >> >> Help????!!!! >> >> Terry Smith, '59 TR3A >> New Hampshire >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as bberger720 at sbcglobal.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mmeany at ne.rr.com Sun Sep 14 08:09:13 2008 From: mmeany at ne.rr.com (Mark Meany) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 10:09:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] For Sale: Mostly TR2-4A Stuff (Update 14SEPT08) Message-ID: <20080914140923.TNKC24964.hrndva-omta01.mail.rr.com@dads> All, The website: www.triumph-folks.homestead.com has been updated with some more odds & ends from Fred Perry's sheds/barns. Take a look! I thought of listing the stuff here but didn't know who that might offend so have left the listing info in the VTR classified section & above website. Mark Meany '65 TR4A IRS O Keene, NH From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 14 08:58:32 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 10:58:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] horns, battery poles Message-ID: <00aa01c9167a$5ba45f90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, My puny 12v portable battery did not have enough power to sound my TR3A's horns (I could, however, hear the typical 'scratching-needle-on-record-type-hiss'). I also had a small TR4 plastic horn which the same battery sounded a distinct blast. Why the difference? Was this a cost saving measure that Triumph took or maybe 'electronic improvement'? BTW, I can't remember if I have ever heard what a TR3 horn sounds like!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's likely I'll have to wait for the "new store-bought, high CCA, big battery". Oh yeah, although initially my TR3A will be stock with Positive Grounding, I have plans to convert it to negative grounding relatively soon after it's running ok. With that in mind, as I am shopping for a new battery, shouldn't I be concerned where the pos. and neg. battery terminals are? Can these terminals be located next to the firewall? If so, that should yield ultimate flexibility as I could easily turn the battery around (without lengthening cables, etc., ) as part of the + to - grounding conversion. Thanks, Paul Dorsey TR3A 1960 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 926 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Sep 14 10:45:50 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 09:45:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] wiring 3A In-Reply-To: <20080914021726.LJCX12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <008501c91605$622354e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <20080914021726.LJCX12447.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809140945m21cf52dcy237dcb13904449b6@mail.gmail.com> Here's a pic of the clips mentioned: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/GroundClips.JPG One shown is original, the other home-made from a bulb base, though I now hear they are available. Geo On 9/13/08, Randall wrote: > The black wire is a ground wire, not shown on the diagram. But I strongly > suggest using it (it goes to a ground clip on the body, behind the horns on > each side) ... From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Sep 14 10:55:44 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 09:55:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0809140955u667521bdta770149adf4cfc3c@mail.gmail.com> An interesting study, but I didn't see where they tested an electric puller fan (which many seem to regard as the best arranement for TRs). From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Sep 14 11:04:27 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 10:04:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] horns, battery poles In-Reply-To: <00aa01c9167a$5ba45f90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00aa01c9167a$5ba45f90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809141004u723c23b3w35bd2508c42f2156@mail.gmail.com> If your battery will sound a TR4 horn I think it should also sound a TR3 horn. The TR3 horn may be faulty or maladjusted. I have seen batteries mounted both ways (posts forward and posts towards the firewall). To me the posts near the firewall are a neater installation and look right. If your eventual plan is to convert to negative ground then perhaps you should do that from the get-go. It is simple enough (takes seconds) and while you're wiring you can connect the ammeter (and electric fan if you have one) the opposite way. From adcronin at ameritech.net Sun Sep 14 11:29:42 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 10:29:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location Message-ID: <414241.74198.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Especially when ones car is a TR2 with no room in front of the radiator! Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: Geo Hahn To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 12:55:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Electric Fan Location An interesting study, but I didn't see where they tested an electric puller fan (which many seem to regard as the best arranement for TRs). _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sun Sep 14 11:56:36 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 13:56:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Broken Down in Roanoke - Need Name of Garage References: Message-ID: <7BDDA595-096F-41FB-B8D1-508219D0BAFF@mindspring.com> > I just got a call from a friend, Alan, in his TR6 who is broken > down in the Roanoke, VA area. The problem is probably with his rear > CV joints (yes, CV not U/J's). So can anyone recommend a mechanic > to help Alan out? He's a long way from NY. Alan's cell is > 917-533-6193 if you want to speak with him on his cell. > > Thanks very much, > > Ashford Little > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > '70 TR6 From CarlSereda at aol.com Sun Sep 14 12:08:04 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 14:08:04 EDT Subject: [TR] horns Message-ID: As far as I know no TR4's came with plastic horns as original ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 14 12:14:23 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 14:14:23 EDT Subject: [TR] horns, battery poles Message-ID: In a message dated 9/14/2008 10:00:52 AM Central Daylight Time, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: > My puny 12v portable battery did not have enough power to sound my TR3A's > horns (I could, however, hear the typical > 'scratching-needle-on-record-type-hiss'). I also had a small TR4 plastic > horn > which the same battery sounded a distinct blast. Why the difference? Was > this a cost saving measure that Triumph took or maybe 'electronic > improvement'? > It could be dirty contacts. The way horns work is there is a solenoid and a set of points. When the points are closed the solenoid is energized and the armature starts to move. As it moves the points open. When that happens then is the solenoid is de-enrgized and the points close up again. The cycle repeats as long as power is supplied. This is know in the trade as a relaxation oscillator. Two things can happen and cause a horn to not work. One is adjustment. If a horn is out of adjustment either the points don't close or they don't open. The other is dirty contacts. If the points are dirty there will not be adequate current flow to pull the armature far enough to open the contacts or a slight movement will change the contact resistance and the the oscillation will be much different than desired. Dodgey wiring can cause the same problem but I assume (and we know what kind of trouble that can cause) you are taking the wires direct to the battery. My TR3 horne didn't work on the car but it worked just fine when I ran the wires direct. (This is why a relay is a really good idea) Take the lid off and clean the contacts with an emory board or some fine sandpaper and clean the contacts and try again. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 14 12:21:17 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 11:21:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080914182117.FVBK27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > They > reach a conclusion on electric fans, for example, that I > would not have anticipated: pushers are best! I must be missing that part. What I do see reflects my personal experience with a Triumph Stag: "We found that placing an electric fan (especially the larger ones) in front of the radiator raised engine temperature at highway speeds by several degrees. " Assuming of course that 10F or more counts as 'several'. Of course the point about there being other ways to add more airflow (to compensate for the restriction of the fan) is valid. Likely I will eventually add a 'chin' spoiler to the (non-show) Stag. But just bolting on a "pusher" fan caused an overheating problem where there wasn't one before. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 14 12:24:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 11:24:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] horns, battery poles In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080914182448.FWKL27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > It could be dirty contacts. Could be, but it's also true that it takes a lot more peak current to operate a TR3A horn than the later ones. And the TR2-early TR3 horns were even worse (which is presumably why they took a 50 amp fuse instead of the later 35 amp). Randall From FGFO1 at aol.com Sun Sep 14 13:56:56 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 15:56:56 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 flywheel facing Message-ID: When having your flywheel faced how much have you guys taken off to the extreme? 0.050 0.075 0.100? IM not trying to just get the face flat. IM doing my own Toyota conversion and need just a little more room inside the bellhousing. What about the race car guys, how much have you taken off? thanks Frank **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 14 17:29:42 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 19:29:42 EDT Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location Message-ID: In a message dated 9/14/08 11:25:15 AM, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Of course the point about there being other ways to add more airflow (to > compensate for the restriction of the fan) is valid. Likely I will > eventually add a 'chin' spoiler to the (non-show) Stag. But just bolting on > a "pusher" fan caused an overheating problem where there wasn't one before. > > Randall > Tony Hart was an advocate of using the ac condenser fans for additional cooling . I did so initially but eventually replaced the ac fans wth a large Pep Boys fan and it worked just fine. I had the fan mounted in front of the radiator. I drove the car all over the West Coast, the Mojave desert and into Arizona without ever having a problem overheating. Mike Moore ************** Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sun Sep 14 19:45:11 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 21:45:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alan's ok - was broke in Roanoke Message-ID: <3A31268A-CFD4-4276-880B-3F4B4AF3FDA8@mindspring.com> Alan (aka broken down in Roanoke) is fine. Well, if fine means you're in a rented Excursion with a trailer towing his TR behind it. He said to pass along that he greatly appreciated the calls with offers of help, and to let everyone know that the transportation "issue" is well in hand. Ashford Little '70 TR6 From DLylis at aol.com Mon Sep 15 04:56:25 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 06:56:25 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Assembly Message-ID: A couple of questions: 1. Is the rubber boot seal glued into place? Mine won't stay on as I expected it to. If so, what adhesive? 2. Same question for the spare cover seal. 3. What material is recommended as a seal between the inner and outer front wings? 4. Is this to be used between the inner and outer rear wings as well? 5. The rubber gas cap seal provided was a grooved arrangement that slipped over the edge of the body panel hole. Unfortunately, the threaded male part of the chrome cap would not fit through the remaining hole to thread into the brass under panel piece. I assembled without for the time being. The part ordered appeared to be correct for my car. Do I have the incorrect gas cap assembly? I don't care to change the gas cap, just provide a rubber seal. Does anyone have a "known to work" technique for covering the dogleg cap just behind the doors? The supplied kit has leather provided. I originally covered mine with vinyl using 3M spray trim adhesive and was quite happy with the results until the car sat in the sun and the adhesive let go at the stress points. This is a do over. TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From thomasb at queensu.ca Mon Sep 15 05:21:26 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 07:21:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] horns, battery poles In-Reply-To: <00aa01c9167a$5ba45f90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00aa01c9167a$5ba45f90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <0K7800K0VI7XHQ20@mta02.its.queensu.ca> Hi Paul At 10:58 AM 14/09/2008, you wrote: >Oh yeah, although initially my TR3A will be stock with Positive Grounding, I >have plans to convert it to negative grounding relatively soon after it's >running ok. With that in mind, as I am shopping for a new battery, shouldn't >I be concerned where the pos. and neg. battery terminals are? Can these >terminals be located next to the firewall? If so, that should yield ultimate >flexibility as I could easily turn the battery around (without lengthening >cables, etc., ) as part of the + to - grounding conversion. > >Thanks, Paul Dorsey TR3A 1960 I use a type 27 battery in my positive ground TR2 and TR3. The posts are on the firewall side with this arrangement. I also use the the type 27 in the TR4A which being negative ground puts the terminals on the engine side. So it does work either way. If you prefer to have the terminals on the other side, a type 27F can be used which has the terminals reversed. As far as cable length, you MAY have a problem as the REACH is further to the engine side. I recently replaced the 27F in my TR4A with a 27 and had to get a new ground cable as the original would no longer reach. Hope this helps. Cheers, Brian Brian S. Thomas email: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Senior IT Specialist work: 613-533-2228 ITServices, Dupuis Hall fax: 613-533-2168 Queen's University home: 613-385-1947 Kingston, Ontario toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, CANADA K7L 3N6 52 Ferguson TEA20 From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Sep 15 05:40:54 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 07:40:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Assembly References: Message-ID: <013c01c91727$ea8248a0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi Dave, >A couple of questions: > 1. Is the rubber boot seal glued into place? Mine won't stay on as I > expected it to. If so, what adhesive? Mine is glued in place. I placed the joint at the bottom. 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive #B1731-80 > 2. Same question for the spare cover seal. 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive #B1731-80 > 3. What material is recommended as a seal between the inner and outer > front > wings? 3m Strip Caulk #051135-08578 20 yds in 1' x 1/4" lengths I used 2 parallel strips/fender. > 4. Is this to be used between the inner and outer rear wings as well? I did not use it there, but your option. Easy to work with. > 5. The rubber gas cap seal provided was a grooved arrangement that > slipped > over the edge of the body panel hole. Unfortunately, the threaded male > part > of the chrome cap would not fit through the remaining hole to thread into > the > brass under panel piece. I assembled without for the time being. The > part > ordered appeared to be correct for my car. Do I have the incorrect gas > cap > assembly? I don't care to change the gas cap, just provide a rubber > seal. Not sure on this one. I did have a problem getting it to seat correctly. Had to shorten the rubber hose length between the tank and the cap. It was a little tricky because you don't want to cut it too short for obvious reasons. > Does anyone have a "known to work" technique for covering the dogleg cap > just behind the doors? The supplied kit has leather provided. I > originally > covered mine with vinyl using 3M spray trim adhesive and was quite happy > with > the results until the car sat in the sun and the adhesive let go at the > stress > points. This is a do over. I don't remember who supplied me with a picture of the form cut out of 1x4. It is mounted in a vise and holds the dog leg so you have use of both hands. I soaked my leather over night in water. Use the same 3M Super Adesive above. I started at the sharpest curve at the bottom and worked out in both directions. Make sure to allow the ahesive to flash off before applying. Makes for a much better job. Don't pull to hard and over stretch the leather. I have had no problems in Florida heat. I might have a picture of it or maybe even have the wooden form. Let me know if no one adds in and I will look for both. Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59 TR3A > > TIA > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Sep 15 06:03:55 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:03:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Assembly References: Message-ID: <01a201c9172b$21576ce0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Just checked on my 3 for the gas filler seal. Mine only has a metal seal between the body and the filler ring. If I remember correctly, I probably cut a piece of thick gasket material to sit between the body and the filler ring. Just as a cushion for the new paint. Alex Manzo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 6:56 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A Assembly >A couple of questions: > 1. Is the rubber boot seal glued into place? Mine won't stay on as I > expected it to. If so, what adhesive? > 2. Same question for the spare cover seal. > 3. What material is recommended as a seal between the inner and outer > front > wings? > 4. Is this to be used between the inner and outer rear wings as well? > 5. The rubber gas cap seal provided was a grooved arrangement that > slipped > over the edge of the body panel hole. Unfortunately, the threaded male > part > of the chrome cap would not fit through the remaining hole to thread into > the > brass under panel piece. I assembled without for the time being. The > part > ordered appeared to be correct for my car. Do I have the incorrect gas > cap > assembly? I don't care to change the gas cap, just provide a rubber > seal. > > Does anyone have a "known to work" technique for covering the dogleg cap > just behind the doors? The supplied kit has leather provided. I > originally > covered mine with vinyl using 3M spray trim adhesive and was quite happy > with > the results until the car sat in the sun and the adhesive let go at the > stress > points. This is a do over. > > TIA > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Mon Sep 15 06:06:27 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:06:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Broken Down in Roanoke - Need Name of Garage References: <091420082017.23038.48CD7142000E5274000059FE2200751150970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8C9F7526-D26F-4C2B-94D6-4000C33523F5@mindspring.com> Don't people go to the cv joints to get away from problems? Several people asked about why the cv joints were an issue, and I wanted to clarify that we don't believe this was the root cause. We believe an improperly balanced driveshaft was causing the problem. Don't blame the c/v joints or the vendor. Ashford Little '70 TR6 From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Sep 15 07:15:41 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 09:15:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment In-Reply-To: <244138.59660.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <244138.59660.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Not sure who originated this thread - but I came across a 36volt battery charger at a garage sale. (Golf cart charger) and since the price was right ($2) I immediately thought of this tank. I have a 55 gal plastic drum so the only part I don't have is the wire mesh but that isn't a problem. Is there an issue with using the 36v instead of a standard battery charger? ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:54 AM Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment > I have a friend and we made a derusting tank off of info we found on > the net. It took a plastic tank full of baking soda solution. The tank was > lined with steel mesh (an old bird cage ISTR). The part in question hangs > in the tank by a steel wire, not touching the steel mesh. Then we hooked > up a battery charger with one lead to the steel wire supporting the part > and the other on the steel mesh. The part would bubble slowly and after a > few hours the part comes out shiney clean and bright. It doesn't eat the > metal away at all, unless you hook the leads up backwards. We experimented > on old rusty horse shoes first. You can probably still find the info with > a Google search. > Here is a link: > http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm > or > http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm > > Good luck. > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Sep 15 08:27:18 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 07:27:18 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr-6 ......V/8 swap info Message-ID: <771059.66536.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> viewing the TN. event pics with V/8 swaps. I was wondering if anyone knows where a person could findgood information on a good step by step guide for doing a v/8 swap into a tr-6. This could include fitment/engine choices, problem solving ect. It's an intrigueing idea but not something I'd want to do by "flying by the seat of my pants". thanks! gary n. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Sep 15 08:32:14 2008 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 07:32:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <765296.95370.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I don't think that this will be a problem. You may get lower current because of the higher voltages. I would try it on a piece of scrap first. Bill in Tehachapi --- On Mon, 9/15/08, Carl TR wrote: From: Carl TR Subject: Re: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment To: wsb1960tr3a at att.net, v6spitfireguy at cox.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, September 15, 2008, 6:15 AM Not sure who originated this thread - but I came across a 36volt battery charger at a garage sale. (Golf cart charger) and since the price was right ($2) I immediately thought of this tank. I have a 55 gal plastic drum so the only part I don't have is the wire mesh but that isn't a problem. Is there an issue with using the 36v instead of a standard battery charger? ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Brewer" To: ; Sent: Tuesday, August 26, 2008 12:54 AM Subject: [TR] Rusty Panel treatment > I have a friend and we made a derusting tank off of info we found on > the net. It took a plastic tank full of baking soda solution. The tank was > lined with steel mesh (an old bird cage ISTR). The part in question hangs > in the tank by a steel wire, not touching the steel mesh. Then we hooked > up a battery charger with one lead to the steel wire supporting the part > and the other on the steel mesh. The part would bubble slowly and after a > few hours the part comes out shiney clean and bright. It doesn't eat the > metal away at all, unless you hook the leads up backwards. We experimented > on old rusty horse shoes first. You can probably still find the info with > a Google search. > Here is a link: > http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm > or > http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm > > Good luck. > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Mon Sep 15 08:35:19 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:35:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr-6 ......V/8 swap info In-Reply-To: <771059.66536.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <771059.66536.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <42EF4728-AA7D-4928-8618-D21295BC4949@mindspring.com> Gary, I think this website is a good source of info. http://www.britishv8.org/index.htm Hope it helps, Ashford Little '70 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 15 08:42:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 07:42:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Assembly In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080915144205.SNNK21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > 2. Same question for the spare cover seal. 3M Super weatherstrip adhesive (aka "gorilla snot"). > 3. What material is recommended as a seal between the inner > and outer front wings? Mine aren't sealed, as original I believe. > 4. Is this to be used between the inner and outer rear wings > as well? Again, mine aren't. > 5. The rubber gas cap seal provided was a grooved > arrangement that slipped over the edge of the body panel > hole. Unfortunately, the threaded male part of the chrome > cap would not fit through the remaining hole to thread into > the brass under panel piece. I assembled without for the > time being. The part ordered appeared to be correct for my > car. Do I have the incorrect gas cap assembly? I don't > care to change the gas cap, just provide a rubber seal. There's been some debate over that, I'm still not certain of the correct answer. But the rubber grommet is not listed in the TR3 SPC and I don't believe it was originally used unless perhaps there were some very late cars that got the TR4 style filler that doesn't clamp onto the deck. Earlier cars I believe got just a flat fiber washer (which is also not listed in the SPC, but I believe was supplied as part of the assembly). Randall From JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com Mon Sep 15 10:22:48 2008 From: JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com (Dombey, John R.) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 09:22:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 457 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dan, If the car is of the fuel injected variety, then there is possibly some rework of the ECU required. I'm not sure about TR7s, but when TR8s exhibit that behavior, resoldering the leads of the big capacitors (ISTR) in the ECU usually sets things right. If you dig around at the world wide wedge site ( http://www.team.net/TR8/ ) you can probably find more details. John Dombey '69 TR6 used-to-have '81 TR8 --- original message --------------------------- > Message: 4 > Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 16:09:42 -0400 (EDT) > From: "Dan Dougherty Sr." > Subject: [TR] Loping TR-7 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <2883318.1221250182783.JavaMail.root at elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > At idle it lopes. Varoom....low idle, Varoom.....low idle, etc. > > Suggestions? > > Dan From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com Mon Sep 15 09:45:56 2008 From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:45:56 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location Message-ID: <21525007.1221493556298.JavaMail.root@elwamui-sweet.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I added a TR6 spoiler from TRF to the front of my Stag using a Threaded Insert Riveter. Quite easy and the fit is excelent. The previous owner added a pusher fan but unlike most of them it has no cowling. I also have an oil cooler. Now my gauge just sits at about 2/3rds all the time. Previously it often was just touching the red. I have made no motor changes nor done any radiator work. The chin spoiler is hardly noticable as it sits so far under the bumper and is flat black. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA >Of course the point about there being other ways to add more airflow (to >compensate for the restriction of the fan) is valid. Likely I will >eventually add a 'chin' spoiler to the (non-show) Stag. But just bolting on >a "pusher" fan caused an overheating problem where there wasn't one before. > >Randall ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Mon Sep 15 11:18:36 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:18:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Upper Control Arm bushing torque Message-ID: I am doing some work on my front suspension, replacing springs and shocks ahead of the PA Reliability run next week (www.abrr.org). The right front suspension on my TR4 was very tight (jacking under spring pan lifted the car, rather than compress the spring). The tightness was at the upper control arm bushings - they were very tight. I understand the assembly procedure is to let the car down on its wheels before fully tightening the slotted nuts to compress the bushings. What torque must I then tighten the nuts to? Is it a tighten, then back-off-a-flat process? Thank you, Brian 1963 TR4 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 15 12:26:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 11:26:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Upper Control Arm bushing torque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <297918C2324F472CA3A01E18CE85DB3F@jdnet.deere.com> > The tightness was at the upper > control arm bushings - they were very tight. Brian: There is something wrong with this picture. Those upper bushings are supposed to be fairly soft rubber, and the nut/washer is supposed to pull down against a shoulder, thereby limiting the force applied to the rubber. There should be no way to pull that joint up tight enough to lift the car as you've described, unless some of the parts are wrong or badly damaged. > I understand the assembly > procedure is to let the car down on its wheels before fully tightening the > slotted nuts to compress the bushings. What torque must I then tighten the > nuts to? Is it a tighten, then back-off-a-flat process? I don't have a TR4 manual handy, but it should be the same as the TR3. The TR3 book gives 26-40 ft-lb, "to suit pin hole". No need to back off, unless you've overshot the hole. Of course, if you're installing polyurethane or Nylatron bushings, the procedure may change. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 15 12:57:05 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:57:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Alternator Output vs RPMs Message-ID: <2D5E026274F74ED982B88C18C17ED01D@bobspc> I'm having a discussion with a TR6 friend who has a Delco 55 amp alternator on his car like I do. He says that every time his Perma-Cool electric fan comes on (he doesn't have a mechanical fan) he sees a 400 RPM drop (stock mechanical tach) in engine speed. His reasoning is that when an accessory calls for power the alternator has to work harder and, in turn, the engine works harder. I thought that an alternator's output was fairly constant and had no impact on engine RPMs and vice versa. I just went out and let my car settle into a steady idle with the volt gauge reading a steady 14.x with just the electric fuel pump running. Raising the RPMs the had no impact on the gauge reading. I turned on the headlights, electric fan, heater fan, radio and electric fuel pump and saw the volt gauge only drop to 13.x but there was no impact on RPMs. Raising the RPMs with that full load had no impact on the volt gauge. This is what I'd expect to see happen, but I'm no expert. Does it make sense that his RPMs would drop when his fan comes on? Just curious. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Sep 15 13:00:06 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 12:00:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] compression test on non running engine? Message-ID: <837005.27677.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> can a person get a fairly accurate compression test on an engine thats on an engine stand by turning by hand? I'm sure a more accurate measurement can be made with a running engine. Just wondering. thanks gary n From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Sep 15 13:15:38 2008 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:15:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Upper Control Arm bushing torque Message-ID: <17016357-ECB7-4F6C-BCB5-45B335B88CB0@mgcarclub.com> > The right front > suspension on my TR4 was very tight (jacking under spring pan > lifted the > car, rather than compress the spring). The tightness was at the upper > control arm bushings - they were very tight. The upper inner A arms are secured with a castle nut and cotter pin. The big washer tightens up to the shoulder. You might also consider the possibility of bent parts . . . (recent experience) Allen Hess From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Mon Sep 15 13:22:37 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:22:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Upper Control Arm bushing torque In-Reply-To: <297918C2324F472CA3A01E18CE85DB3F@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: I agree Randall, its not right. The torque on the bushings seemed much more than spec. I'll try the setting you have below - thanks; I'll rethink things if it's still not right. Maybe the bushings are wrong, though they look like Moss 630-130? The nut and washer can't pull down directly on the shoulder of the Fulcrum Pin - the rubber bushings have shoulders of their own. Tightening the nut/washer squeezes the control arm between the bushing shoulders on either side. I *hope* the set up was just over torqued, while up on stands and the correct torque, done the correct way, fixes this. I appreciate the help and am hoping I don't have more fundamental issues. Brian "Randall" 15-Sep-2008 14:26 To Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com, triumphs at autox.team.net cc Subject RE: [TR] Upper Control Arm bushing torque > The tightness was at the upper > control arm bushings - they were very tight. Brian: There is something wrong with this picture. Those upper bushings are supposed to be fairly soft rubber, and the nut/washer is supposed to pull down against a shoulder, thereby limiting the force applied to the rubber. There should be no way to pull that joint up tight enough to lift the car as you've described, unless some of the parts are wrong or badly damaged. > I understand the assembly > procedure is to let the car down on its wheels before fully tightening the > slotted nuts to compress the bushings. What torque must I then tighten the > nuts to? Is it a tighten, then back-off-a-flat process? I don't have a TR4 manual handy, but it should be the same as the TR3. The TR3 book gives 26-40 ft-lb, "to suit pin hole". No need to back off, unless you've overshot the hole. Of course, if you're installing polyurethane or Nylatron bushings, the procedure may change. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 15 13:31:29 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:31:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Alternator Output vs RPMs Message-ID: In a message dated 9/15/2008 1:58:07 PM Central Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > I'm having a discussion with a TR6 friend who has a Delco 55 amp alternator > on his car like I do. He says that every time his Perma-Cool electric fan > comes on (he doesn't have a mechanical fan) he sees a 400 RPM drop (stock > mechanical tach) in engine speed. His reasoning is that when an accessory > calls for power the alternator has to work harder and, in turn, the engine > works harder. > > I thought that an alternator's output was fairly constant and had no impact > on engine RPMs and vice versa. I just went out and let my car settle into a > steady idle with the volt gauge reading a steady 14.x with just the electric > fuel pump running. Raising the RPMs the had no impact on the gauge reading. > I turned on the headlights, electric fan, heater fan, radio and electric > fuel pump and saw the volt gauge only drop to 13.x but there was no impact > on RPMs. Raising the RPMs with that full load had no impact on the volt > gauge. This is what I'd expect to see happen, but I'm no expert. Does it > make sense that his RPMs would drop when his fan comes on? > > Your friend is right. The alternator (or a generator in general) converts mechanical energy to electrical energy. If you draw more electrical energy it will need more mechanical energy. That means torque. Hence the speed will drop. Haven't you ever ridden one of those bicycles connected to a generator connected to some lightbulbs? No lightbulbs easy pedaling. One lightbulb, more difficult pedaling. Three or for and I can't keep up. The voltage will drop also showing that the windings have a finite resistance and current flow will cause a voltage to develop along their length. So, why doesn't your car's RPM drop? As I recall you have a modern electronic fuel injection system. I don't know all the details but it is common with these FI systems to modulate an idle control valve to maintain the idle speed at a desired level. Other methods of regulating idle speed are also used. These include adjusting the spark advance. This is all very effective and can mask the additional load applied to the motor by the charging system. Most of the TR's built during the 70's and 80's also have a spark retard module on the distributor. This has the effect of regulating the idle speed. The way this works is the spark is retarded by the vacuum generated by the idling engine. As the timing retards the engine speed drops causing the vacuum to drop reducing the retard. An engine so equipped will reduce the effect of additional mechanical load due to the alternator loading. But it is common for the plumbing to be removed leading to this phenomenon. Dave From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Sep 15 13:39:18 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:39:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] ground for horns on a 3A? Message-ID: <014401c9176a$bf068ea0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Those little clips that ground the horn? and turn signal? seemingly would be susceptable to corrosion. Do we put a dab of grease on them? More important: the two wires coming from the horn are gn and nb. If that's so, then is there a ground wire that comes from the horns? If there is no external horn ground, then what are those clips for? If it does have a ground wire, then what other TR3A components have a ground that is not shown on the stock wiring diagram? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 926 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 15 13:48:26 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:48:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] ground for horns on a 3A? In-Reply-To: <014401c9176a$bf068ea0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <014401c9176a$bf068ea0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > Those little clips that ground the horn? and turn signal? seemingly would be> susceptable to corrosion. Do we put a dab of grease on them?> > More important: the two wires coming from the horn are gn and nb. If that's> so, then is there a ground wire that comes from the horns? If there is no> external horn ground, then what are those clips for? The horns are hot all the time and the horn button on the control head gives them a ground when you push it. John H. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 15 13:54:32 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 12:54:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Assembly In-Reply-To: <013c01c91727$ea8248a0$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <013c01c91727$ea8248a0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809151254v7c210c44xcd91198cada540ad@mail.gmail.com> Possibly me. Photos: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg1.JPG http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg2.JPG http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg3.JPG http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg4.JPG On 9/15/08, Alex wrote: > > I don't remember who supplied me with a picture of the form cut out of 1x4. > It is mounted in a vise and holds the dog leg so you have use of both hands. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 15 14:05:14 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:05:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fan Location In-Reply-To: <21525007.1221493556298.JavaMail.root@elwamui-sweet.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <21525007.1221493556298.JavaMail.root@elwamui-sweet.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809151305x32897506t468e608ded0ca161@mail.gmail.com> A simple and nearly unnoticeable spoiler for the TR3 or 4 can be fashioned from plywood and mounted using existing holes and hardware store L brackets. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/airdam1.JPG Probably helps a little but do enough little things and they add up. On 9/15/08, hdrider570 at peoplepc.com wrote: > The chin spoiler is hardly noticable as it sits so far under the bumper and > is flat black. From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Sep 15 14:14:44 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 16:14:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] 3A sighting in southern Maine Message-ID: <012501c9176f$b2551960$d95de247@DCS78M81> Just got back to central Florida from a really nice weekend in Cape Nedick, Maine. We were in a big hurry last Thursday when I spied a nice looking white TR3A in Hanniford's grocery store in Kittering, Maine... any lister want to claim the sighting?? I'm really sorry I didn't have the time or the car pointed in the correct direction to introduce myself and check out the car better. Tom From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 15 14:14:24 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:14:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] ground for horns on a 3A? In-Reply-To: References: <014401c9176a$bf068ea0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809151314n6526c200w4678ef9596ac7382@mail.gmail.com> On 9/15/08, John Herrera wrote: > The horns are hot all the time and the horn button on the control head gives > them a ground when you push it. Which (I think) is why the wire has a black stripe. The main color indicates the circuit (brown = horns) and the black tracer shows that it is providing a switched ground. Those clips ground the headlamps and (front) sidelamps and have never given me any trouble, though certainly a bit of dielectric grease wouldn't come amiss. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 15 14:28:03 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:28:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] ground for horns on a 3A? In-Reply-To: <014401c9176a$bf068ea0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <014401c9176a$bf068ea0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <22C5F6568ED645B69B33E6197170C2A7@jdnet.deere.com> > Those little clips that ground the horn? and turn signal? seemingly would > be susceptable to corrosion. Do we put a dab of grease on them? Wouldn't hurt. > More important: the two wires coming from the horn are gn and nb. If > that's so, then is there a ground wire that comes from the horns? Not as such. As John wrote, the horns get their connection to ground through the horn button in the control head, which in turn is grounded through the stator tube and steering box. > If > there is no external horn ground, then what are those clips for? They each get two wires, one from the headlight on that side and one from the turn/marker light on that side. > then what other TR3A components have a > ground that is not shown on the stock wiring diagram? That's kind of an extensive question, and in some cases open to debate. But I'll take a shot at it: We've already mentioned both headlights and both front turn/marker lights. The sender for the fuel gauge and the fuel gauge itself need to be grounded. I believe in both cases the factory did originally install a ground wire, but most cars have one or both missing. The starter, distributor, generator and OD solenoid (if present) are grounded through the engine block, there is a ground strap at the LH front motor mount that is frequently overlooked. The starter solenoid is grounded through its mounts, which seems secure enough to me. The speedometer and tachometer cases need to be grounded. The factory may have relied on the mountings to ground them, but I would suggest adding a ground wire over to the tie point on the panel. The wiper motor should have a ground wire, from the screw on the case to one of the bolts into the body. I believe the factory supplied this, but it's almost always missing. Not clear from the diagram, the instrument panel is not just grounded (through the wire to the control box), but serves as a tie point for ground wires behind the dash. All of the rear lights need to be grounded. AFAIK the factory relied on them to be grounded through their mounting points, but again I recommend adding a separate ground wire, which can be led along the harness and secured to one of the gas tank mounting strap bolts. The bulb holders all have provisions for a bullet ground wire. Randall From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Sep 15 14:33:05 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 16:33:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Assembly References: <013c01c91727$ea8248a0$6401a8c0@STATION6> <7bb181af0809151254v7c210c44xcd91198cada540ad@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <03af01c91772$42ae7590$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi George, Yes it was you. Thanks again. It made all the difference in the world. My dog legs came out great thanks to your help. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 3:54 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Assembly > Possibly me. Photos: > > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg1.JPG > > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg2.JPG > > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg3.JPG > > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/dogleg4.JPG > > On 9/15/08, Alex wrote: >> >> I don't remember who supplied me with a picture of the form cut out of >> 1x4. >> It is mounted in a vise and holds the dog leg so you have use of both >> hands. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 15 14:40:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:40:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Alternator Output vs RPMs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > So, why doesn't your car's RPM drop? Yet another reason for this is that the old Lucas alternators do almost nothing at idle rpm. Since they are already working as hard as they can at idle, adding more load just runs the battery down faster. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 15 14:48:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:48:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Upper Control Arm bushing torque In-Reply-To: References: <297918C2324F472CA3A01E18CE85DB3F@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > Maybe the bushings are wrong, though they look like Moss 630-130? I assume you meant 680-130. > The nut > and washer can't pull down directly on the shoulder of the Fulcrum Pin - > the rubber bushings have shoulders of their own. Tightening the nut/washer > squeezes the control arm between the bushing shoulders on either side. Those shoulders do get squeezed to some extent, but my recollection is that the washer still comes up against the shoulder of the fulcrum pin. The sleeve of the A-arm should be enough shorter than the gap between the washer and the flat of the fulcrum pin that there is room for the bushing to stick out. Don't recall where I got them now, but I had a set of bushings that had much wider shoulders than stock, so there may have been someone selling poor reproductions of the bushings. As I recall, they were also tapered where they fit into the sleeve of the A-arm, while the originals were not. Since I was tired of changing them every few years anyway, I converted to Nylatron and solved the problem forever. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 15 14:52:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:52:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] compression test on non running engine? In-Reply-To: <837005.27677.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <837005.27677.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <638C7F409952493A8EFB95D844008185@jdnet.deere.com> > can a person get a fairly accurate compression test on an engine thats on > an > engine stand by turning by hand? It would be difficult, since it takes a LOT of force to turn the engine against the compression even of one cylinder. Almost certainly you would wind up turning slower against the good cylinders (allowing them to leak more and hence read lower) than any bad cylinders. OTOH, you could always hook up the starter and a battery to spin it. There's also the question of why you would want to do that. If you already have the engine out and suspect it might have bad rings and/or valves, just replace them! If it's a freshly built engine, then lack of run-in will likely render any variation meaningless anyway. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 15 15:20:26 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 17:20:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Alternator Output vs RPMs Message-ID: In a message dated 9/15/2008 3:03:39 PM Central Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > I do have TBI on my car but there is no idle control valve used in the > installation. Rick Patton did use one on the first car he converted but then > decided it wasn't necessary. However my distributor has been converted to > fully electronic with the ECM controlling it so that may make a difference > along with the Master's wire harness. > Mark Fisher, in Chicago, was using timing as an idle speed control. Works pretty well. Dave From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Sep 15 15:26:58 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 17:26:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] horn hook-up, battery found Message-ID: <015701c91779$c953be00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Okay, I've got one horn partly hooked up. Since I had my Nissan truck nearby I took the other horn over to it and touched it's poles. Nada. It did make the characteristic-needle-to-phonograph sound, but nothing near a real sound. I turned the wiring around so that, this time, I held it to opposite battery post's. This time, no kind of sound could be heard. Question: why the difference? If indeed it did make a difference, then maybe I'd be better off staying Positive ground? One answer, no doubt, will be the size of my 8" nissan battery. BTW, I stopped by Autozone today and they have a $90 battery that's 13 3/4" wide, 7" deep with recessed poles, and is was group 49 and had a CCA of 850. It maybe 3/4" shorter than a group 24 or 27 battery but longer. I'll go by Walmart tomorrow, but the Autozone battery will be hard to beat. Maybe It will make the horns blast! I still can't remember if I've ever heard a TR3 horn? I don't suppose that many CCA could damage a un-adjusted TR3 horn-do you think? Thanks, Paul 60 Tr3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 926 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Mon Sep 15 15:43:45 2008 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:43:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest Lake Tahoe Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E96D272@kb1.mossmotors.com> I know some people have made plans about Triumphest in Lake Tahoe, but thought if people wanted to meet to caravan on a Wednesday trip, I would co-ordinate. In order to accommodate the most people I propose the following: I plan to leave Buellton at 7 AM Wednesday October 1 heading north on the 101. All in the area meet at Pea Soup Andersons in Buellton to leave by 7 AM. We will head to Harris Ranch in Coalinga off the I-5. Those coming from points south meet us there. Fill your tanks, even get something to eat if you want, but plan to leave by 10:30 AM. We head north to Sacramento; fill tanks again around Stockton; turn east on I-50 to Tahoe. Fill tanks again near Shingle Springs, where there should be food for a quick stop, too. This should get us to the hotel by 3-4 PM. Interested? Meet us at a location. Contact me @ peterara at msn.com Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From dkspence at telus.net Mon Sep 15 15:58:53 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:58:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] compression test on non running engine? Message-ID: <17647CF1-6370-45BC-9D0B-A6CE7990165E@telus.net> Gary Compression tests are always done on a none running engine as in the engine is not capable of starting. (ignition disabled) If you haven'y already, install the starter (and solenoid) and hook it up to a battery. Assuming you have a solenoid with a manual push button you can easily turn the engine over with that. Take out the plugs to reduce the load on the rod bearings. Run your tests dry and then and squirt some oil into the cylinders and do it again. Any significant difference between the two tests indicates a problem with the rings. From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Sep 15 16:16:23 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 18:16:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hinges In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E96D272@kb1.mossmotors.com> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E96D272@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <3E2FA8B1FA024CD399DE2B84B3F9C6F3@DCH6RFC1> The (steel) hinges on my TR3B sag and the door drops down when the sidescreens are fitted. I had new pins inserted last year, but I don't think it was enough. Unfortunately the hinges are "personalized" for the car: the work involved in getting new hinges to fit is daunting. Does anyone have the name of someone who could somehow restore these hinges and tighten them up for me? Andrew Uprichard From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Sep 15 16:32:58 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 23:32:58 +0100 Subject: [TR] Hinges References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E96D272@kb1.mossmotors.com> <3E2FA8B1FA024CD399DE2B84B3F9C6F3@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <02e401c91783$01c51e60$0201a8c0@Bevan> Andrew Very sorry to read of your problem. Seems that you and me face the same dilemma, though my hinge difficulty affects my front gate. Careful examination indicates the *female* part of the hinge has worn eliptically, so it looks like a new gate. Cheers, Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 11:16 PM Subject: [TR] Hinges > The (steel) hinges on my TR3B sag and the door drops down when the > sidescreens are fitted. I had new pins inserted last year, but I don't > think it was enough. Unfortunately the hinges are "personalized" for the > car: the work involved in getting new hinges to fit is daunting. > > Does anyone have the name of someone who could somehow restore these hinges > and tighten them up for me? > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 15 16:44:21 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:44:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] horn hook-up, battery found In-Reply-To: <015701c91779$c953be00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <015701c91779$c953be00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <6126AE2775FB4B71A2133DAFC2139622@jdnet.deere.com> > Question: why the > difference? I don't know, but I doubt it had anything to do with polarity. The TR2/3 type horns are very prone to developing corrosion around the pushrod that opens the contact points, so I would guess that it got stuck between the first and second test. The cure is to disassemble the points, so the pushrod can be cleaned and lubricated. > and had a CCA of 850. It's worth noting, perhaps, that there is more to car battery ratings than CCA. CCA (Cold Crank Amps) is basically a measure of the battery's internal resistance, and it certainly needs to be adequate for the purpose. But RC (reserve capacity) is the measure of how much power the battery can deliver (much like the older amp-hour rating, but measured differently) and IMO is more important. Since the original Tractor motor starter only draws about 450 amps max (typically about 300 while actually cranking the engine), I would suggest that looking for CCA of at least 450 and RC as high as possible might make more sense. > I don't suppose that many CCA could damage a un-adjusted TR3 > horn-do you think? No, having too many CCA won't damage the horn. Randall From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Sep 15 16:50:13 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 18:50:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Hinges In-Reply-To: <02e401c91783$01c51e60$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E96D272@kb1.mossmotors.com> <3E2FA8B1FA024CD399DE2B84B3F9C6F3@DCH6RFC1> <02e401c91783$01c51e60$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <009B4CF6F3604E4688765EBB580419D4@DCH6RFC1> Misery loves company........ -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com] Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 6:33 PM To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Hinges Andrew Very sorry to read of your problem. Seems that you and me face the same dilemma, though my hinge difficulty affects my front gate. Careful examination indicates the *female* part of the hinge has worn eliptically, so it looks like a new gate. Cheers, Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 11:16 PM Subject: [TR] Hinges > The (steel) hinges on my TR3B sag and the door drops down when the > sidescreens are fitted. I had new pins inserted last year, but I don't > think it was enough. Unfortunately the hinges are "personalized" for the > car: the work involved in getting new hinges to fit is daunting. > > Does anyone have the name of someone who could somehow restore these hinges > and tighten them up for me? > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Mon Sep 15 20:21:36 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 20:21:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Hinges In-Reply-To: <3E2FA8B1FA024CD399DE2B84B3F9C6F3@DCH6RFC1> References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0E96D272@kb1.mossmotors.com> <3E2FA8B1FA024CD399DE2B84B3F9C6F3@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <9E5B7204998943ECA3311587BC3D7C2B@sniffer> Andrew, What if you drilled out the pin-hole to get it round again and stepped up to a slightly larger pin? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 4:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Hinges The (steel) hinges on my TR3B sag and the door drops down when the sidescreens are fitted. I had new pins inserted last year, but I don't think it was enough. Unfortunately the hinges are "personalized" for the car: the work involved in getting new hinges to fit is daunting. Does anyone have the name of someone who could somehow restore these hinges and tighten them up for me? Andrew Uprichard This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1671 - Release Date: 9/15/2008 9:21 AM From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Mon Sep 15 22:19:08 2008 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 21:19:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Interesting Triumph Parts Website Message-ID: <317567.51747.qm@web83302.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I found an interresting parts link website. http://www.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/sd.cgi?fil=triumph. On the website I see two A type OD transmissions for sale on Philadelphia's Craigslist. http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/802452732.html Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 15 22:25:59 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 21:25:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 Generator/Electric Motor Message-ID: Hi All - Again, thanks for all of the suggestions. I took the generator off, and took it in to the local LBC parts store. It tested fine. I got a new belt, jacked up the engine, and installed it. (Thinking about it, I don't know that I could have installed a new belt on the side of the road. I'll save the "rope" belt", or get a narrower emergency belt, for the "on the side of the road" repairs. I really don't want to carry an extra jack.) I polarized the generator, and it started right up, and everything seemed to check out. I took it for a short drive (about 30 miles), and it seemed to charge just fine. The amp gauge read normally, and the red light did not come on. I'll drive it to work a couple of times over the next couple of weeks. Hopefully all will be OK for the trip to Triumphest. In asking the local LBC parts store about why this might have happened, the response was "It's Lucas, what did you expect? Something logical? Maybe you went through some type of electrical field?" In examining the control box, when I disconnected the wire at the "F" contact to repolarize, I notice that a bug had been "fried" between the "F" terminal and the next one to the left. That makes a lot more logical sense to me. Maybe, because I had driven so many freeway miles, the battery had over-charged, and that somehow reversed the direction of the current? I'm still grasping for some type of logical explanation. I really don't want this to happen again in the Sierra Nevada Mountains on the way to South Lake Tahoe in a couple of weeks!! Any suggestions? If anyone wants to see pictures of my rope fan belt, they are posted at: http://flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157602881332130/ They are at the end of the set. Thanks for all of your help. David Gunn 1954 TR2 TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 15 22:29:04 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 21:29:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brisbane Pictures Message-ID: Hi All - I have posted my pictures from the Brisbane, CA show at: http://flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157607314046656/ Of course there are a lot of pictures of my signal red 1954 TR2. Enjoy. David Gunn 1954 TR2 TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 15 22:36:53 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 21:36:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 Generator/Electric Motor In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080916043653.VWCP26261.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I really don't want to carry > an extra jack.) Shouldn't need to jack the engine up. If necessary, add shims to the motor mounts (as the factory did) and to the radiator mounts to keep the crank hole lined up with the crank dog. Don't forget that turning the steering wheel can also move the center link away from the pulley. As far as the generator continuing to spin, I guess Dave Massey was right. If the belt breaks with the generator still spinning, it must not draw enough current to open the cutout relay. The bug would have helped, too, since the terminal to the left of 'F' is 'A', which is hot all the time. And the regulator relay would be closed, connecting 'F' to 'D'. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 16 05:47:47 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 07:47:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] horn hook-up, battery found Message-ID: <172C90C1.1530E54E.36296DCF@cs.com> "dorpaul" wrote: >Okay, I've got one horn partly hooked up. Since I had my Nissan truck nearby >I took the other horn over to it and touched it's poles. Nada. It did make >the characteristic-needle-to-phonograph sound, but nothing near a real sound. >I turned the wiring around so that, this time, I held it to opposite battery >post's. This time, no kind of sound could be heard. Question: why the >difference? If indeed it did make a difference, then maybe I'd be better off >staying Positive ground? > >One answer, no doubt, will be the size of my 8" nissan battery. BTW, I >stopped by Autozone today and they have a $90 battery that's 13 3/4" wide, 7" >deep with recessed poles, and is was group 49 and had a CCA of 850. It maybe >3/4" shorter than a group 24 or 27 battery but longer. I'll go by Walmart >tomorrow, but the Autozone battery will be hard to beat. > >Maybe It will make the horns blast! I still can't remember if I've ever heard >a TR3 horn? I don't suppose that many CCA could damage a un-adjusted TR3 >horn-do you think? > >Thanks, Paul 60 Tr3A > >-- >I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. >SPAMfighter has removed 926 spam emails to date. >Paying users do not have this message in their emails. >Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as dave1massey at cs.com > >http://www.team.net/archive > Nah. Even a 5 A-H Emergency light battery will sound the horn. It draws no where near what the starter requires. The horn is 50 years old. It is going to have issues. Mostly corrosion. There is a screw that holds the domed cover on. Remove that and the cover and you will see the inner workings. Spray some contact cleaner on the inner workings and see if that helps. Touch up the contacts with some fine sandpaper. Try tweaking the adjustments (a little bit at a time, it doesn't take much). Make sure the wiring is sound and the contacts are good. It ain't the battery. Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Sep 16 06:04:18 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 08:04:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79CA29@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <2D5E026274F74ED982B88C18C17ED01D@bobspc> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79CA29@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: Thanks for all of the responses to this question. You learn something new everyday. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 4:06 PM To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs Bob: Yes, it makes sense. An alternator with no load on it will only require the frictional losses + some small amount of work to keep the windings active. If you place a load of say, 20 amps on the alternator, you are now demanding the original amount of work + (13v x 20a) = 260 watts. This is roughly 1/3 HP of work (~760 W = 1 HP) that now needs to be done. This work does not appear out of thin air, it is supplied by the motor because now it is much harder to spin the alternator. The regulator is there solely to keep the voltage constant, otherwise the faster you spin the alternator the higher the voltage would go (assuming the load is not changing). So you should NOT see your voltmeter move very much at all as you add or remove loads - although the engine may speed up or slow down if it is idling. The other variable here is the tune of the engine. If the engine has a hot cam, then it does not have any torque reserve at idle so a small change in load can really slow down the idle speed. A stock cam delivers a robust torque at idle, so you may not notice the idle speed change much when a load is applied. An electric fan is the way to go, even though there is a small loss of efficiency when converting the load to an electrical one. A mechanical fan will spin up to 5,000 RPM, and so will draw up to two or three HP. An electric fan will normally spin no faster than about 2,000 HP and so will draw 1/2HP or less while operating (0 HP when not operating). Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- I'm having a discussion with a TR6 friend who has a Delco 55 amp alternator on his car like I do. He says that every time his Perma-Cool electric fan comes on (he doesn't have a mechanical fan) he sees a 400 RPM drop (stock mechanical tach) in engine speed. His reasoning is that when an accessory calls for power the alternator has to work harder and, in turn, the engine works harder. Does it make sense that his RPMs would drop when his fan comes on? Just curious. Bob No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1672 - Release Date: 9/15/2008 9:21 AM From scott at sabutler.com Tue Sep 16 06:20:11 2008 From: scott at sabutler.com (Scott A. Butler) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 08:20:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Disconnected BU Lead Near Bulb Relay, '76 TR6 Message-ID: <9768A8A04EBB4345AF0E3A5AD4782F93@OVOSABD620> My 1976 TR6 has a disconnected wire near the Bulb Test Relay and I can't figure out what it's supposed to be connected to. It's Black/Blue and Masters' Handbook reports it is the "Grounding Lead from LH Seat sensor to seat belt interlock module." I'm wondering (a) What this BU lead plugs into, and if the answer is "seatbelt interlock module," (b) where is this module and what does it look like? Some other facts/clues: - The BU lead has enough slack in it that it looks like it should connect to the Bulb Test Relay. - I've sorted out the previous owner's handiwork at the Bulb Test Relay (BTR) with the help of Master's (Excellent) Handbook and it doesn't connect to the BTR, per schematics. This BU lead is the only wiring orphan in the vicinity. - There are no other male 1/4" spades in the vicinity: just the BTR and the Horn Relay. Thanks, Scott Butler Chagrin Falls, OH 1976 TR6, Blue From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 16 07:15:57 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 13:15:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] What is that thing? In-Reply-To: <03af01c91772$42ae7590$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <013c01c91727$ea8248a0$6401a8c0@STATION6> <7bb181af0809151254v7c210c44xcd91198cada540ad@mail.gmail.com> <03af01c91772$42ae7590$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: In the photos of George's covering the dog leg for a TR3 there is some kind of structural support between the work benches with an encased mechanism on it. What is this for? Best regards,Tom --------------- _________________________________________________________________ Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Sep 16 07:27:11 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 06:27:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] What is that thing? In-Reply-To: References: <013c01c91727$ea8248a0$6401a8c0@STATION6> <7bb181af0809151254v7c210c44xcd91198cada540ad@mail.gmail.com> <03af01c91772$42ae7590$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809160627p779308b6tb57884fa891cb2ed@mail.gmail.com> It's the business end of an old parking meter. Doesn't everyone have some totally useless item on the workbench? On 9/16/08, tom white wrote: > > In the photos of George's covering the dog leg for a TR3 there is some kind > of structural support between the work benches with an encased mechanism on > it. What is this for? From wbeech at flash.net Tue Sep 16 08:15:13 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 08:15:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] What is that thing? In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0809160627p779308b6tb57884fa891cb2ed@mail.gmail.com> References: <013c01c91727$ea8248a0$6401a8c0@STATION6><7bb181af0809151254v7c210c44xcd91198cada540ad@mail.gmail.com><03af01c91772$42ae7590$6401a8c0@STATION6> <7bb181af0809160627p779308b6tb57884fa891cb2ed@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Great! I now feel vindicated for hanging on to that old parking meter from Abilene, Texas that I bought for $5.00, 30+ years ago. Someday I'm going to get a post for it and figure out what it would cost to feed it everyday to keep the Triumph parked. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 7:27 AM To: tom white Cc: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] What is that thing? It's the business end of an old parking meter. Doesn't everyone have some totally useless item on the workbench? On 9/16/08, tom white wrote: > > In the photos of George's covering the dog leg for a TR3 there is some > kind of structural support between the work benches with an encased > mechanism on it. What is this for? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1673 - Release Date: 9/15/2008 6:49 PM From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Sep 16 12:51:38 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 11:51:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 Generator/Electric Motor In-Reply-To: <20080916043653.VWCP26261.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080916043653.VWCP26261.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809161151k600329c1ib1736bbb67c7d2a6@mail.gmail.com> I'va always been able to squeeze a belt thru there on the TR3 though as Randall notes cranking the steering to full lock opens up the gap a bit. A cogged belt also seems to get thru more easily. On the TR4 OTOH, have never been able to change a belt w/o loosening motor mounts and jacking up the engine (and they are nearly new motor mounts). On 9/15/08, Randall wrote: > Shouldn't need to jack the engine up. If necessary, add shims to the motor > mounts (as the factory did) and to the radiator mounts to keep the crank > hole lined up with the crank dog. Don't forget that turning the steering > wheel can also move the center link away from the pulley. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Tue Sep 16 13:13:05 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (cfmtr3a at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 14:13:05 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] What is that thing? Message-ID: <16718813.2462991221592385355.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net> It would be a lot easier to just put a bucket by the garage door[INSIDE] and every time you walk by drop your change into it. I did that for about 3 years and was able to pay for dipping the TR3 (and then some). I am guessing I have about another $1000 in there right now. Won't cover the paint job but it will put a dent into it. ===================== From: wbeech Date: 2008/09/16 Tue AM 09:15:13 CDT To: 'Geo Hahn' , 'tom white' Cc: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] What is that thing? Great! I now feel vindicated for hanging on to that old parking meter from Abilene, Texas that I bought for $5.00, 30+ years ago. Someday I'm going to get a post for it and figure out what it would cost to feed it everyday to keep the Triumph parked. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 7:27 AM To: tom white Cc: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] What is that thing? It's the business end of an old parking meter. Doesn't everyone have some totally useless item on the workbench? On 9/16/08, tom white wrote: > > In the photos of George's covering the dog leg for a TR3 there is some > kind of structural support between the work benches with an encased > mechanism on it. What is this for? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1673 - Release Date: 9/15/2008 6:49 PM This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From mathews at uga.edu Tue Sep 16 13:18:10 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:18:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] What is that thing? II In-Reply-To: <16718813.2462991221592385355.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mails rvcs.net> References: <16718813.2462991221592385355.JavaMail.root@vms170009.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <20080916191813.D3BDA18765C@autox.team.net> Where do you live, when are you away, and you don't lock your garage door do you? ;-) Doug At 03:13 PM 9/16/2008, you wrote: >I am guessing I have about another $1000 in there right now. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Sep 16 14:07:46 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 16:07:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery Message-ID: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've seen agood many batterys, shopping for my TR3A. Thru this list I learned that group 27 was the right size. However, I found even some sizes that I wonder might be even better than the group 27. A group 49 battery is 13.5" wide, and a group 31 battery fits my 14" battery well better. I am most excited with the group 31P battery, it has a CCA of 1110amps and a RC (residual capacity) of 180. The RC was told to me by the salesman who looked it up on the computer. Most batteries have a RC of just 80-95. This group 31P battery is about 13" wide x 7"x 9" tall (Including Posts), an RC of 180 and CENTER POSTS. (Meaning no need to swap battery around since both + and - posts are neither nearer the firewall or engine side, but right smack in the middle (posts are still on the ends) What reason is there for going with Group 27 or is it group 24 Thanks, Paul TR3A '60 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 926 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Sep 16 14:47:12 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 16:47:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery In-Reply-To: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > I've seen agood many batterys, shopping for my TR3A. Thru this list I> learned that group 27 was the right size. However, I found even some sizes> that I wonder might be even better than the group 27. A group 49 battery is...Blah, Blah, Blah... Paul, if you would stop agonizing over every little thing and just work on the TR3, you will be driving it soon. Now turn off the computer and get out there and do something! John From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 16 15:12:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 14:12:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery In-Reply-To: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > I am most excited with the group 31P battery, it has a CCA of 1110amps What brand was that, Paul? Neither Delco nor Exide seem to have specs quite that high, even for a 31P battery (which is a heavy diesel truck model). > What reason is there for going with Group 27 or is it group 24 Well, weight would be one reason, for me. A 31P weighs upwards of 60 pounds, while a group 24 is only about half that. Not to mention the reinforcements for the battery box Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Sep 16 16:22:46 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:22:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery In-Reply-To: References: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809161522o42e1f32crdc399ae175f43528@mail.gmail.com> But he would have a hybrid! If the engine failed with that battery he could drive home on the starter! From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Sep 16 17:30:03 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 18:30:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0809161522o42e1f32crdc399ae175f43528@mail.gmail.co m> References: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <7bb181af0809161522o42e1f32crdc399ae175f43528@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20080916233008.C849518789F@autox.team.net> Or maybe even on the generator, based on recent posts... - Tony At 05:22 PM 9/16/2008, Geo Hahn wrote: >But he would have a hybrid! > >If the engine failed with that battery he could drive home on the starter! From mrv8q at aim.com Tue Sep 16 18:33:38 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 20:33:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Miata/TR6 seat tracks Message-ID: <8CAE67429120658-990-7440@webmail-nh03.sysops.aol.com> Any latest info on Uncle Jack's Miata seat track project? ISTR "Uncle" Joe Alexander helping out on thisB project; is that correct? Any contact info, or update would be appreciated... Best, Kevin Browne '59 TR3A '74 TR6 From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Sep 16 18:53:54 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 19:53:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] Miata/TR6 seat tracks In-Reply-To: <8CAE67429120658-990-7440@webmail-nh03.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CAE67429120658-990-7440@webmail-nh03.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080917005359.44EA218764D@autox.team.net> I've kinda taken that project over from Jack (Dad). The brackets seem to work well in a TR-6 but there's something different with the TR-4 and 4a floor pan / fit / whatever that have caused a couple of people problems. I've not gotten specifics on what exactly the TR-4 / 4a issue is, though, so Joe and I haven't been able to redesign it for those models. I wasn't on the Triumph list when Jack was peddling those, so the pricing is a little sketchy. From what I can find, it looks like $70 / kit which does both seats in the TR-6. I'm not sure if that included shipping, I suspect not. The pieces are well made - laser cut, nicely bent, and powder coated and includes the incidental nuts / bolts / washers necessary for installation. Tony Drews tony at tonydrews.com 309-764-4506 At 07:33 PM 9/16/2008, mrv8q at aim.com wrote: >Any latest info on Uncle Jack's Miata seat track project? ISTR "Uncle" Joe >Alexander helping out on thisB >project; is that correct? Any contact info, or update would be appreciated... > >Best, > >Kevin Browne > >'59 TR3A > >'74 TR6 From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Tue Sep 16 19:55:00 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 21:55:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery References: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <7bb181af0809161522o42e1f32crdc399ae175f43528@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <018c01c91868$64d8e050$0300a8c0@Desktop> No it would run his computer and we all would hear about it ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 6:22 PM Subject: Re: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery > But he would have a hybrid! > > If the engine failed with that battery he could drive home on the starter! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Wed Sep 17 00:10:41 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 00:10:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0809161522o42e1f32crdc399ae175f43528@mail.gmail.com> References: <01ab01c91837$e39f5df0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <7bb181af0809161522o42e1f32crdc399ae175f43528@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <10B9CAF595F14F9A882D639A3AD58AD1@sniffer> Don't laugh, I have done that before with older American cars. Stick it in top gear and crank it to get to a safer part of the road. Bill -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2008 4:23 PM To: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] why a group 27(24) ? battery But he would have a hybrid! If the engine failed with that battery he could drive home on the starter! This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1674 - Release Date: 9/16/2008 8:15 AM From pethier at comcast.net Wed Sep 17 12:44:25 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 18:44:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen Photos and BIR Message-ID: <091720081844.289.48D150090000645B0000012122165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Blake J. Discher" > It was a great time. A birthday cake for Kas Kastner. A roughly 40- > car Triumph only race. 155 Triumphs in the Tour de Marque. About 225 > Triumphs total for the festival. > > Photos at: http://www.fireflystudios.com/wg/ Picture #23, car 3.14, TR6 stopped off on the way home to New Mexico in Minnesota at Brainerd International Raceway for the the 40th birthday of the track and the unveiling of the new "short course" which no longer shares space with the dragstrip. Now we can run road course and drigstrip activities at the same time, and the roadies don't need to run on the super-slippery dragstrip in the rain. Pix at http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157607294535888/ -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Sep 17 12:57:27 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 18:57:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen Photos and BIR Message-ID: <091720081857.28280.48D153170007323D00006E782200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> Gee Phil, If anyone should be able to tell the difference between a TR4 and a TR6, it should be YOU. ;-) Irv Korey -------------- Original message -------------- From: pethier at comcast.net > Picture #23, car 3.14, TR6 stopped off on the way home to New Mexico in > Minnesota at Brainerd International Raceway for the the 40th birthday of the > track and the unveiling of the new "short course" which no longer shares space > with the dragstrip. Now we can run road course and drigstrip activities at the > same time, and the roadies don't need to run on the super-slippery dragstrip in > the rain. > > Pix at > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/sets/72157607294535888/ > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C > package > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as emanteno at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Wed Sep 17 14:58:43 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 20:58:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen Photos and BIR Message-ID: <091720082058.14602.48D16F830001C3430000390A22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: emanteno at comcast.net > Gee Phil, > > If anyone should be able to tell the difference between a TR4 and a TR6, it > should be YOU. Yeah, but amazingly, my fingers don't always find the correct keys on my computer! -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Sep 17 17:33:01 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 19:33:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Watkins Glen Photos and BIR In-Reply-To: <091720082058.14602.48D16F830001C3430000390A22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <48D15B6D.26562.9CDF3DA@localhost> On 17 Sep 2008 at 20:58, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > Yeah, but amazingly, my fingers don't always find the correct > keys on my computer! Ah Phil, you have been sipping Joe Curry's fluifs again, I see. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 17 19:35:25 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 20:35:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRials - from my cockpit! updated! References: <002f01c88863$ee05da80$ca118f80$@net> <003801c88868$2f346b80$8d9d4280$@net> Message-ID: <006701c9192f$06aedc10$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> http://www.ranteer.com/townsend/ From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Sep 17 20:14:15 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 19:14:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] FYI on oil pump problem Message-ID: <470625.11108.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Just an update on my "no oil pressure" problem. I just received my new oil pump and compared it too the old one which was not bringing up pressure. I found that the shaft on my old pump had been pushed down farther into the vane which is attached to the shaft. I could find no evidence of the vane being pinned to the shaft. I don't think it was pinned. (background is that I had changed the position of the distributor by pulling it and the skew gear out, and then re-inserting them both without thinking that it wasn't locked in with the oil pump shaft) when i bolted the distributor down it apparently pushed the oil pump shaft down into the vane. I was surprised that the old pump wasn't pinned. I'm thinking maybe it was a cheap replacement? Others might want to check when you have your pan off to see if yours is pinned or not. Now i can't wait to get on the road!! We're having a glorious fall here in iowa. gary n. From DLylis at aol.com Thu Sep 18 05:12:40 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 07:12:40 EDT Subject: [TR] FYI on oil pump problem Message-ID: Gary, I have installed a replacement pump in a rebuild that has had initial start but has no run time. I do not recall the new pump. Are you saying that the vane is not through bored and that the shaft does not reach through the vane to have the same end float clearance as the vane against the lower plate? It sounds like what you are saying is that the shaft is not pinned AND has the ability to end float into a hole with bottom clearance. Who did you buy this from and where are the product techs reviewing this stuff? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 18 05:43:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 04:43:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] FYI on oil pump problem In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080918114336.DGXB846.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Are you saying that the vane is not through bored and > that the shaft does not reach through the vane to have the > same end float clearance as the vane against the lower > plate? Dunno nuttin about TR6 pumps, but that sounds a lot like some bad TR2-4 pumps that were on the market a few years back. Instead of being properly pinned, the shaft was knurled and pressed into the vanes. They had a nasty habit of working loose. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Sep 18 09:05:11 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 10:05:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] FYI on oil pump problem References: <20080918114336.DGXB846.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <18985C51B7B54FD39592FD9F8690C672@mikeslaptop> >> Are you saying that the vane is not through bored and >> that the shaft does not reach through the vane to have the >> same end float clearance as the vane against the lower >> plate? > > Dunno nuttin about TR6 pumps, but that sounds a lot like some bad TR2-4 > pumps that were on the market a few years back. Instead of being properly > pinned, the shaft was knurled and pressed into the vanes. They had a > nasty > habit of working loose. > > Randall Knurling a shaft that is a loose press fit or making random center punch marks on the OD of a bushing that is a little loose are old machinists tricks that would get you fired in the shop that I worked in back in the 60s. Now, it appears, it is a valid production technique! I will make my own assumption as to the source of the pumps Randall refers to... Mike From jmerone at rocketmail.com Thu Sep 18 09:28:02 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 08:28:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] British Invasion weather Message-ID: <372419.30515.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> If you're coming up to the British Invasion in our lovely state of Vermont, have a safe and pleasant trip. And lucky for you because the show is slightly later in September this year, and the fall foliage has already begun to pop out. Low temperatures tonight will be in the upper 20s (that's right - 20s) so that will jump start the colors even further. The rest of the weekend weather looks great - sunny, dry, and warming up through Saturday with a slight chance of showers on Sunday. This year there's a street event on Friday night in Stowe village - including car show. Check out the web site at www.britishinvasion.com I'll see you on the field, Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu Sep 18 09:28:37 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 10:28:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Gas tank glop Message-ID: Finally finished Jill's MG and now I finally get to work on my "new" TR4. The PO had "restored" it and then parked it for 25+ years, with a full tank of gas. He then pulled it out of storage and spent a couple of days trying to get it running - on the old gas. Incredible how bad it smells. I've removed all of the fuel system, and most of it is straightforward to clean and rebuild. However, the gas tank has a thick sediment on the bottom - not grit, not rust, just (apparently) decomposed unleaded gasoline. I don't have a reliable radiator shop nearby to "boil" it out, though I can take it 50 miles to a good guy if necessary. I won't use "Gas Tank Renu" (if they're still around) because I don't want a big hole cut in this otherwise-beautiful, solid tank. Looks like it might come out fairly easily with the right solvent, and that's what I plan to try before going to more extreme measures. I'll get the gas gauge sending unit out first, of course, make proper plugs for the openings, and put some brass nuts and bolts into the tank (only if necessary) to help scrape the sludge off. My only question is what solvent will be most effective. In the absence of any better ideas, I'll start with lacquer thinner, but before I start pouring expensive solvents into it, anyone seen this glop and know of something that works better ?? Thanks ! Karl From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Thu Sep 18 09:45:31 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 08:45:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] more explanation oil pump Message-ID: <505672.89727.qm@web59614.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> There might have been some confusion on which oil pump was pinned and which wasn't. The OLD pump I removed was the un-pinned pump. I not sure if that was a replacement pump or not. If not surely the factory didn't install the knurled type? not sure. Anyway the new pump i purchased was from Moss motors and looks to be very good quality. It is plainly pinned and included the pickup screen, bolts ect. I wasn't sure if i'd get a complete pump or just the main body. I'm very happy with it at this point. (gonna try it out today) gary n. From rhelman at gmail.com Thu Sep 18 09:57:35 2008 From: rhelman at gmail.com (Roger Helman) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 08:57:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas tank glop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <779de48e0809180857q5fdd08eepc19b7f7d0867e7ff@mail.gmail.com> Karl, I am doing this with a 75 TR6 parked under very similar circumstances. I am using a system from por-15 to clean out and restore the inside of the gas tank. I am actually doing both My 71 and the 'new' 75 at the same time. Hopefully this will never be an issue with either car again. The Por-15 system comes with "Marine Clean" which removes all the crud in the tank. go to http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=FTRK&dept=11 for more info. And yes the smell is terrible. I had to throw away my gloves, jacket and a pair of jeans. The smell does not wash out. Roger Spokane, WA On Thu, Sep 18, 2008 at 8:28 AM, Karl Vacek wrote: > Finally finished Jill's MG and now I finally get to work on my "new" TR4. > > The PO had "restored" it and then parked it for 25+ years, with a full tank > of > gas. He then pulled it out of storage and spent a couple of days trying to > get it running - on the old gas. Incredible how bad it smells. > > I've removed all of the fuel system, and most of it is straightforward to > clean and rebuild. However, the gas tank has a thick sediment on the > bottom - > not grit, not rust, just (apparently) decomposed unleaded gasoline. > > I don't have a reliable radiator shop nearby to "boil" it out, though I can > take it 50 miles to a good guy if necessary. I won't use "Gas Tank Renu" > (if > they're still around) because I don't want a big hole cut in this > otherwise-beautiful, solid tank. > > Looks like it might come out fairly easily with the right solvent, and > that's > what I plan to try before going to more extreme measures. I'll get the gas > gauge sending unit out first, of course, make proper plugs for the > openings, > and put some brass nuts and bolts into the tank (only if necessary) to help > scrape the sludge off. > > My only question is what solvent will be most effective. In the absence of > any better ideas, I'll start with lacquer thinner, but before I start > pouring > expensive solvents into it, anyone seen this glop and know of something > that > works better ?? > > Thanks ! > Karl From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Thu Sep 18 10:19:37 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 12:19:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] ==RESTORED== 1959 TRIUMPH STANDARD 10 Message-ID: <32663401.1221754778026.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> WOW! Best, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA >Subject: ==RESTORED== 1959 TRIUMPH STANDARD 10 > >This is an oddity! Don't recall seeing many of these in the US. > >don > >http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/844427915.html [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Tri TR10jpg.jpg] From dkspence at telus.net Thu Sep 18 12:51:57 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 12:51:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] Gas tank glop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What about "gasoline"? On 18-Sep-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Karl Vacek" > Date: September 18, 2008 9:28:37 AM MDT (CA) > To: , > Subject: [TR] Gas tank glop > Reply-To: Karl Vacek From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Sep 18 13:35:38 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 15:35:38 EDT Subject: [TR] FYI on oil pump problem Message-ID: In a message dated 9/18/2008 10:05:46 AM Central Daylight Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > Knurling a shaft that is a loose press fit or making random center punch > marks on the OD of a bushing that is a little loose are old machinists > tricks that would get you fired in the shop that I worked in back in the > 60s. Now, it appears, it is a valid production technique! I will make my > own assumption as to the source of the pumps Randall refers to... > We're talking about the same folks who laced baby formula with melamine Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 18 14:42:32 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:42:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas tank glop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <24CB526F5EE3406A8E42B05860BB62CD@jdnet.deere.com> > What about "gasoline"? That was going to be my suggestion: Just fill up the tank and drive it. Keep the tank above half for the first few times (so the fresh fuel/glop ratio doesn't go too high), it should be fine. After all, there's some ethanol in pretty much all the "gasoline" now. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Sep 18 15:44:51 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 16:44:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] FYI on oil pump problem References: Message-ID: <8366D2A488EF4DA8A476ADAC2A37357D@mikeslaptop> To quote Francis Urquhart ("House of Cards"): "You might think that, but I couldn't possibly say that..." Mike >> Knurling a shaft that is a loose press fit or making random center punch >> marks on the OD of a bushing that is a little loose are old machinists >> tricks that would get you fired in the shop that I worked in back in the >> 60s. Now, it appears, it is a valid production technique! I will make >> my >> own assumption as to the source of the pumps Randall refers to... >> > We're talking about the same folks who laced baby formula with melamine > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Sep 18 15:53:30 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 17:53:30 EDT Subject: [TR] Gas tank glop Message-ID: A fellow on the Spidget list does all of his fuel tanks by pouring out a much as he can and then filling the tank with water and detergent (Simple Green?). He then puts the whole thing on his BBQ grill and heats it up to boiling. The boiling water and some screws and bolts to swish around inside leaves his tanks very, very clean...for next to nothing in cost. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 9/18/2008 9:29:31 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, kvacek at ameritech.net writes: Looks like it might come out fairly easily with the right solvent, and that's what I plan to try before going to more extreme measures. I'll get the gas gauge sending unit out first, of course, make proper plugs for the openings, and put some brass nuts and bolts into the tank (only if necessary) to help scrape the sludge off. My only question is what solvent will be most effective. In the absence of any better ideas, I'll start with lacquer thinner, but before I start pouring expensive solvents into it, anyone seen this glop and know of something that works better ?? Thanks ! Karl **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From motorcarriage at charter.net Thu Sep 18 16:38:11 2008 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 18:38:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] FYI on oil pump problem References: <8366D2A488EF4DA8A476ADAC2A37357D@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: Having been both a Mechanic and a Machinist, and presently a Tool and Die Moldmaker in the Die Cast Industry, I would call it a Mechanic's trick to avoid the time and money of having a machinist fix it. As an industrial Mechanic we would regularly weld up journals on large Rollers 8' long in a long bed Lathe with 7014 welding rod or a Spray Welder then turn them, Boil the Bearing Races in oil and smother the journals with a CO2 Fire extinguisher for a shrink fit and slide/Tap on as quickly as possible before they grabbed. There was a time or two I remember some mechanics stippling a journal if they went undersize and pulling out the miracle goop to add to it. Not fond memories. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 75 TR6 (Daily Driver) sold the TR3 64 + 65 Land Rover Pickups >"Knurling a shaft that is a loose press fit or making random center punch >> marks on the OD of a bushing that is a little loose are old machinists >> tricks that would get you fired in the shop that I worked in back in the >> 60s." From fishplate at charter.net Thu Sep 18 18:16:31 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 20:16:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas tank glop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080919001624.YYFI3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 11:28 AM 9/18/2008, Karl Vacek wrote: >My only question is what solvent will be most effective. All other things being equal, I'd get a gallon of acetone at the hardware store... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Sep 18 18:24:55 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 20:24:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs AT THE GLEN- Message-ID: <504A2773.4445FB18.00159EE9@cs.com> Blake, CREDIT AND KUDOS to my wife Jan, who baked the cake for Kas. Kas was really pleased. This was his 80TH Birthday. For his 70th Birthday, KAS said he got a cake from Paul Newman. It was at the race track, too. It truly was a great weekend for Triumphs....thanks for your part in it. Joe A >-------------- Original message ---------------------- >From: "Blake J. Discher" >> It was a great time. A birthday cake for Kas Kastner. A roughly 40- >> car Triumph only race. 155 Triumphs in the Tour de Marque. About 225 >> Triumphs total for the festival. >> >> Photos at: http://www.fireflystudios.com/wg/ From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Sep 18 18:29:22 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 17:29:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] ==RESTORED== 1959 TRIUMPH STANDARD 10 In-Reply-To: <32663401.1221754778026.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <32663401.1221754778026.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809181729p5ed4cbr11e35719b8d73a65@mail.gmail.com> Indeed. That appears to be the sort of car that -- if I were selling it -- I would drag to Barrett-Jackson and expect to get silly money. Geo On 9/18/08, rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net wrote: > WOW! From spitlist at cox.net Thu Sep 18 19:03:42 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 18:03:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] 9 List Badges left of the 150 that were produced Message-ID: <266A9C2C23BD4B9AA0128041626AA99D@newcomputer> Folks, Seeing how I recently had my job outsourced to India, I need to clear out some of the stuff that I have left over from previous projects. If these items, I have 9 Triumphs List Grill Badges that are not spoken for. Anyone wanting one please send me an off list message. I will reserve them on a first come first served basis. They are $35.00 (postage included) Regards, Joe Curry P.S. I also have plenty of the List decals available for $3.00 each in both sticky back and static cling vinyl. From a901949 at aol.com Thu Sep 18 19:45:30 2008 From: a901949 at aol.com (a901949 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 21:45:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] S.O.S. Message-ID: <8CAE8108870C7B0-D4-4C3@FWM-M32.sysops.aol.com> Hi guys, Trying to find a shipper to send parts from Connecticut to Los Angeles, probably on a pallet. By truck or maybe train - looking for some advice. Would greatly appreciate help. Thanks, Tom From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Sep 18 21:20:50 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 23:20:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? Message-ID: <004101c91a06$b85194d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I'm thinking I havn't really annoyed folks with my questions, but I'll try to improve... Now about choosing a battery. I've been shopping for one that will more completely fill my 14" battery box. Although this listserve's members tended to prefer a Group 27 size battery, I found some longer (possibly newer sizes). Only then did I learn that their weight might be a problem. Well, I took my bathroom scales into several laps, today. While I didn't have a pen on me, this what I learned: Grp. 24 40 lbs. (this seemed too short) Grp. 27 48 lbs. 135 Residual Capacity, Durolast brand , about 12" (I think) Grp. 49 45 lbs. (It was about an inch longer, I think) Grp. 31 60 lbs. (ruled out because it's proably too heavy), Farm, 180 RC So let me ask: Why is Group. 24 or 27 ( recommended "highly" by this list), when a Group 49 battery fits the battery box better? And has similar CCA and RC? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3A From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Sep 18 21:35:54 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 21:35:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? References: <004101c91a06$b85194d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Maybe its just because. 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: dorpaul To: list Triumph Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 9:20 PM Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? I'm thinking I havn't really annoyed folks with my questions, but I'll try to improve... Now about choosing a battery. I've been shopping for one that will more completely fill my 14" battery box. Although this listserve's members tended to prefer a Group 27 size battery, I found some longer (possibly newer sizes). Only then did I learn that their weight might be a problem. Well, I took my bathroom scales into several laps, today. While I didn't have a pen on me, this what I learned: Grp. 24 40 lbs. (this seemed too short) Grp. 27 48 lbs. 135 Residual Capacity, Durolast brand , about 12" (I think) Grp. 49 45 lbs. (It was about an inch longer, I think) Grp. 31 60 lbs. (ruled out because it's proably too heavy), Farm, 180 RC So let me ask: Why is Group. 24 or 27 ( recommended "highly" by this list), when a Group 49 battery fits the battery box better? And has similar CCA and RC? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3A _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Sep 18 22:49:53 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 21:49:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] S.O.S. In-Reply-To: <8CAE8108870C7B0-D4-4C3@FWM-M32.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080919044953.ESOB25689.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Trying to find a shipper to send parts from Connecticut to > Los Angeles, probably on a pallet. By truck or maybe train - > looking for some advice. Would greatly appreciate help. Does it have to be door-to-door, or can you deliver and pickup to/from a terminal? If the latter, you might check out Forward Air. In spite of their name and the verbiage on their website, they do handle surface shipping at low rates. I had a whole pallet-load of Triumph parts shipped to LA from Texas a few years back; as I recall the shipping bill was around $130. UPS was going to be over 5 times that much. http://www.forwardair.com They appear to have a terminal in Windsor Locks, CT; and the LA-area terminal is in Carson, CA; not far from where the 710 freeway meets the 91. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Thu Sep 18 23:56:37 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 23:56:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? In-Reply-To: <004101c91a06$b85194d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004101c91a06$b85194d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <022DDF5232DE49CD8719DCDA2443DE9D@sniffer> Maybe the group 49 battery is just newer and was not considered by many when making the choice. BTW, I for one, have not been annoyed by your questions as I am re-building my TR3 on what seems to be around the same schedule as you, and for the most part have been quite helpful to me. If you don't ask, you will never know. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 9:21 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? I'm thinking I havn't really annoyed folks with my questions, but I'll try to improve... Now about choosing a battery. I've been shopping for one that will more completely fill my 14" battery box. Although this listserve's members tended to prefer a Group 27 size battery, I found some longer (possibly newer sizes). Only then did I learn that their weight might be a problem. Well, I took my bathroom scales into several laps, today. While I didn't have a pen on me, this what I learned: Grp. 24 40 lbs. (this seemed too short) Grp. 27 48 lbs. 135 Residual Capacity, Durolast brand , about 12" (I think) Grp. 49 45 lbs. (It was about an inch longer, I think) Grp. 31 60 lbs. (ruled out because it's proably too heavy), Farm, 180 RC So let me ask: Why is Group. 24 or 27 ( recommended "highly" by this list), when a Group 49 battery fits the battery box better? And has similar CCA and RC? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3A This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1677 - Release Date: 9/17/2008 5:07 PM From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Sep 19 04:13:51 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 06:13:51 EDT Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/18/08 8:28:35 PM, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: > Now about choosing a battery. I've been shopping for one that will more > completely fill my 14" battery box. Although this listserve's members > tended > to prefer a Group 27 size battery, I found some longer (possibly newer > sizes). > Only then did I learn that their weight might be a problem. > Well, I took my bathroom scales into several laps, today. While I > didn't > have a pen on me, this what I learned: > Grp. 24 40 lbs. (this seemed too short) > Grp. 27 48 lbs. 135 Residual Capacity, Durolast brand , > about > 12" (I think) > Grp. 49 45 lbs. (It was about an inch longer, I think) > Grp. 31 60 lbs. (ruled out because it's proably too heavy), > Farm, 180 RC > > So let me ask: > Why is Group. 24 or 27 ( recommended "highly" by this list), when a Group 49 > battery fits the battery box better? And has similar CCA and RC? > > Thanks, Paul 60 TR3A > Paul, Once upon a time, I decided that battery quaality was related to amount of lead and therefore price and therefore weight. I ran around allover town weighing size 27 batteries. I found HUGE weight discepancies. As I recall, it ranged from 30 to 65 lbs for teh same size battery. Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Fri Sep 19 06:16:05 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 06:16:05 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? In-Reply-To: <004101c91a06$b85194d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20080919061605.18e75cd8@pop.west.cox.net> I'm going out on a limb and guess that the group 24 is highly recommended, simply because that is the factory recommended size - As far as what I choose, well I look at the highest CCA and reserve, and if it will fit in the space provided. Weight never really was a factor - currently just installed a Walmart part 124R-3 @ CCA 875 reserve 700. Couldn't tell you what it weighs though :-) ******************************************************************** >So let me ask: >Why is Group. 24 or 27 ( recommended "highly" by this list), when a Group 49 >battery fits the battery box better? And has similar CCA and RC? > >Thanks, Paul 60 TR3A Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From willgray at vaxxine.com Fri Sep 19 08:09:38 2008 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett and Carol Gray) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 10:09:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration Message-ID: In the procedure described in the "MGA With An Attitude" website for calibration of a Jeager fuel gauge, the use of two 68 ohm resistors is called for: can anyone tell me where I can purchase resistors like this? Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 08:13:13 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:13:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] S.O.S. In-Reply-To: <8CAE8108870C7B0-D4-4C3@FWM-M32.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CAE8108870C7B0-D4-4C3@FWM-M32.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I have used Yellow Freight in the past with acceptable results. Best regards,Tom ---------------------------------------- > _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 19 08:40:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 07:40:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080919144007.UXXT23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > In the procedure described in the "MGA With An Attitude" > website for calibration of a Jeager fuel gauge, the use of > two 68 ohm resistors is called for: can anyone tell me where > I can purchase resistors like this? Radio Shack should still have them, or Fry's if there is one in your area. Or any number of on-line suppliers, like Digi-Key http://www.digikey.com/ or Mouser http://www.mouser.com or MarVac http://www.marvac.com/ Or you could even check your phone book for a real electronic parts store in your area; there are several near me (Signal Electronics, Torrance Electronics). However, you might want to double-check your sender resistance first. ISTR the TR3 uses a slightly different resistance than the MGA does; like maybe 80 or 90 ohms instead of 70. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Fri Sep 19 09:04:10 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 09:04:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My first stop would be the local Radio Shack, but here is a link to an on-line supplier as well: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=016-68 Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Willett and Carol Gray Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 8:10 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration In the procedure described in the "MGA With An Attitude" website for calibration of a Jeager fuel gauge, the use of two 68 ohm resistors is called for: can anyone tell me where I can purchase resistors like this? Dave This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1679 - Release Date: 9/18/2008 5:03 PM From nwolf at u.washington.edu Fri Sep 19 10:16:55 2008 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 09:16:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? Message-ID: Hi Paul and Mike >Paul, >Once upon a time, I decided that battery quality was related to amount of >lead and therefore price and therefore weight. I ran around allover town >weighing size 27 batteries. I found HUGE weight discepancies. As I recall, it >ranged from 30 to 65 lbs for teh same size battery. >Mike Moore This reminds me of the legend of why cheddar cheese is orange. Long ago, the story goes, the natural color of this cheese varied from off-white to yellow depending on what the cows ate. Consumers at some point decided that the more brightly colored cheese was better, and selected that. Maybe it tasted better, or maybe it was just the fashion. In any case, the manufacturers caught on, started adding a little bit of dye (annatto), the baseline shifted, things got carried away, and now almost all Cheddar is bright orange, with no correlation (or perhaps a negative one?) between color and quality. So, does this mean we're headed toward 80-Lb ballast-filled batteries? I hope not. ;) In any case, since we're talking about non-original batteries anyway, I'll make the usual pitch for spending a bit more to get a sealed battery like an Optima. You can thank me later when your battery tray isn't rusted through like most of them out there. The Group 34 red-top is the one to get, or the yellow-top if you have deep-cycle tendencies. Optima specs (redtop/yellowtop): minimum weight = 38 Lbs/44 Lbs cca = 800/750 RC = 100/120 c/20 = 50 Ah/55 Ah LxWxH = 10" x 6 7/8" x 7 13/16"/ditto No, they don't pay me for this. :) It just makes me sad whenever I see good cars with holes under the battery. -Nick Wolf 1962-ish TR4 (Optima red-top) 2000 New Beetle TDI (dunno... it's buried under the plastic) From blambert at socal.rr.com Fri Sep 19 10:25:13 2008 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 09:25:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration In-Reply-To: <20080919144007.UXXT23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080919144007.UXXT23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <2304ACC6B4D64A5591EB1A653912CFA6@dennisebbf9347> When I checked my sender on the TR3 it showed 88 ohms. I think I would use that value instead of 70. Dennis > However, you might want to double-check your sender resistance first. > ISTR > the TR3 uses a slightly different resistance than the MGA does; like maybe > 80 or 90 ohms instead of 70. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 19 11:54:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 10:54:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > You can thank me later when your battery tray isn't > rusted through like most of them out there. Of course, one could make the same argument for upgrading the charging system. IMO it's not so much the vented batteries that are the problem, as the original charging system that forced them to vent. My battery tray is no worse today than it was when I converted to an alternator some 20 years ago. And the conversion cost less than a single Optima. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 19 12:00:27 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 11:00:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > In the procedure described in the "MGA With An Attitude" website for > calibration of a Jeager fuel gauge, the use of two 68 ohm resistors > is called for: can anyone tell me where I can purchase resistors > like this? I forgot to mention this earlier : What you are looking for are "carbon composition, 1/2 watt resistors with axial leads". Other types will work of course, but are more expensive. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 19 12:45:18 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:45:18 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration Message-ID: In a message dated 9/19/2008 1:04:29 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > I forgot to mention this earlier : What you are looking for are "carbon > composition, 1/2 watt resistors with axial leads". Other types will work of > course, but are more expensive. > Carbon Comp or carbon film? Although you can get carbon comp (Mouser) carbon film are much more common and a bit less expensive. Dave From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Sep 19 14:02:12 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 16:02:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/19/08 9:17:19 AM, nwolf at u.washington.edu writes: > This reminds me of the legend of why cheddar cheese is orange. Long ago, > the story goes, the natural color of this cheese varied from off-white to > yellow depending on what the cows ate. Consumers at some point decided that the > more brightly colored cheese was better, and selected that. Maybe it tasted > better, or maybe it was just the fashion. In any case, the manufacturers > caught on, started adding a little bit of dye (annatto), the baseline shifted, > things got carried away, and now almost all Cheddar is bright orange, with no > correlation (or perhaps a negative one?) between color and quality. > So, does this mean we're headed toward 80-Lb ballast-filled batteries? I > hope not. ;) > > In any case, since we're talking about non-original batteries anyway, > I'll make the usual pitch for spending a bit more to get a sealed battery like > an Optima. You can thank me later when your battery tray isn't rusted through > like most of them out there. The Group 34 red-top is the one to get, or the > yellow-top if you have deep-cycle tendencies. > > Optima specs (redtop/yellowtop): > minimum weight = 38 Lbs/44 Lbs > cca = 800/750 > RC = 100/120 > c/20 = 50 Ah/55 Ah > LxWxH = 10" x 6 7/8" x 7 13/16"/ditto > > No, they don't pay me for this. :) It just makes me sad whenever I see > good cars with holes under the battery. > > -Nick Wolf > 1962-ish TR4 (Optima red-top) > 2000 New Beetle TDI (dunno... it's buried under the plastic) > > > Actually Nick, I now remember that the weight issue was brought up in a consumers magazine which listed various batteries, their weight, and their capacity-as well as their guarantees, About Optimas: I have bought a number of Optima batteries over the past 12 years or so. I started buying them after I had a led acid battery boil over due to overcharging caused by a regulator failure. I have had problems with them though in 3 different cars and will not use them again. I discussed my problems at length with the last dealer (who gave me my money back) and also with an ex dealer. If your system is in great shape, your regulator charges within limits, and you never let the battery get low, they work just fine. They have not proven to be very robust though for me or for the e-dealer or for my current dealer. I had to send one back to a "center" to ensure it was properly charged. The claim that time was that they had to be charged at a very low rate. Then I later read they had to be charged at a very high rate. The ex-dealer quit handling he said because the factory "autopsied" warranty return batteries he sent back, and if the gel was burned out , they rejected his return forcing him to either find the customer or eat the loss. l Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From boggiano at charter.net Fri Sep 19 14:17:35 2008 From: boggiano at charter.net (Thomas Boggiano) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 16:17:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Setting timing on a TR4 and Rocker pedistal hight References: <004101c91a06$b85194d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <002101c91a94$c17aeaf0$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Hi All I am at the point in the engine reassembly of setting the timing on the new cam shaft (so I dont have the origional markings to go by) 2 questions: 1) The Haynes manual has a process by which you set the timing by having the the 7 and 8 the push rods balanced so either way the cam turns the push rod moves up. Has anyone else followed this procedure and had success? Can anyone point me at alternate procedures? 2) I fitted dry fitted the head wiht the old head gasket along with the rocker arms to make sure everything was fitting correctly. I have noticed that the adjustment on the rocker pedistal will not provide enough clearance to allow the push rods to fully extend. have others used a shim of sort under the pedistal to provide the clearange and raise up the rocker arm? Is this a part that someone out there is fabricating? Thanks Tom From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri Sep 19 14:29:46 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 16:29:46 EDT Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? Message-ID: What are deep cycle tendencies.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 9/19/2008 10:17:51 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, nwolf at u.washington.edu writes: The Group 34 red-top is the one to get, or the yellow-top if you have deep-cycle tendencies. **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From nwolf at u.washington.edu Fri Sep 19 15:26:41 2008 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:26:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? Message-ID: Deep-cycle batteries (like the Optima yellow-tops) are better then regular batteries at handling the occasional deep discharge due to leaving the lights on, or limping home with a dead generator, or running the radio at Lovers Lane for hours on end. If you've done any of these things more than once in the past year, then perhaps you have deep-cycle tendencies. :) Deep-cycle batteries are used in electric vehicles too, for obvious reasons. They weigh more than regular batteries because the lead is thicker to handle the sustained current without overheating. -Nick On Fri, Sep 19, 2008 at 1:29 PM, wrote: > >What are deep cycle tendencies.... > >Robert B. Houston >Texan in New Mexico > >63 TR4 From nwolf at u.washington.edu Fri Sep 19 16:10:35 2008 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 15:10:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? Message-ID: On Fri, Sep 19, 2008 at 1:02 PM, wrote: >About Optimas: I have bought a number of Optima batteries over the past 12 >years or so. I started buying them after I had a led acid battery boil over >due to overcharging caused by a regulator failure. I have had problems with >them though in 3 different cars and will not use them again. I discussed my >problems at length with the last dealer (who gave me my money back) and also >with an ex dealer. If your system is in great shape, your regulator charges >within limits, and you never let the battery get low, they work just fine. >They have not proven to be very robust though for me or for the e-dealer or >for my current dealer. I had to send one back to a "center" to ensure it was >properly charged. The claim that time was that they had to be charged at a >very low rate. Then I later read they had to be charged at a very high rate. >The ex-dealer quit handling he said because the factory "autopsied" warranty >return batteries he sent back, and if the gel was burned out , they rejected >his return forcing him to either find the customer or eat the loss. >Mike Moore That does sound bad. My experience has been much more positive: The four Optimas in my family's cars are all running fine after several years (I think the oldest one, in my TR4, has five years on it, with stock charging system). But, as they say, your mileage may vary. My point was not that Optima batteries are super reliable (which is debatable, apparently)... my point is that it's worth paying extra to get a sealed battery that won't leak and burn a hole in your car. If my Optima had died prematurely, I would have gone looking for a different SEALED battery. Better dead than leaky, says I. :) -Nick P.S. Randall has a good point about improving the charging system to reduce the amount of battery acid bubbling out of a standard battery. BUT, they still leak, even in modern cars with (presumably) improved charging systems. I haven't checked my 2000 VW yet, but my '95 Honda (a dry California car) had obvious corrosion issues under the battery - and nowhere else - as did my '86 VW, '81 Toyota, '71 VW, '70 BMW, '67 Volvo, '67 BMW, '65 VW, etc etc. Geez, I've owned a lot of cars over the years... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 19 17:35:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 16:35:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Setting timing on a TR4 and Rocker pedistal hight In-Reply-To: <002101c91a94$c17aeaf0$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> References: <004101c91a06$b85194d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <002101c91a94$c17aeaf0$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: > 1) The Haynes manual has a process by which you set the timing by having > the the 7 and 8 the push rods balanced so either way the cam turns the > push > rod moves up. Has anyone else followed this procedure and had success? I have, although not quite in that form. Instead, adjust the valve lash on those two valves to a larger than usual value, like .050". The exact value is not important, but they must be the same. Then with the camshaft turned to approximately TDC firing on #1, get the lash exactly equal on those two valves, and the camshaft will be at exactly TDC. (Assuming it is a symmetrical grind, which all the factory camshafts are. However, some aftermarket cams are not symmetrical and cannot be timed this way.) > Can anyone point me at alternate procedures? See http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/803.pdf for a more classic procedure that will work for any cam (assuming you know what it's timing specs are). > 2) I fitted dry fitted the head wiht the old head gasket along with the > rocker arms to make sure everything was fitting correctly. I have noticed > that the adjustment on the rocker pedistal will not provide enough > clearance > to allow the push rods to fully extend. I'm not sure I follow your problem here, the valves are supposed to be open with the pushrods "extended". However, shimming the pedestals is a bad idea because it screws up the geometry between the rocker and valve, putting extra side force on the stems and accelerating valve wear. The more customary way to deal with this problem (which normally only happens when the head has been modified to increase compression substantially) is to fit special shortened pushrods, available from places like BFE, TSi, Racetorations, etc. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 19 17:37:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 16:37:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > The ex-dealer quit > handling he said because the factory "autopsied" warranty return batteries > he sent back, and if the gel was burned out , they rejected his return > forcing him to either find the customer or eat the loss. I wonder if that's why Wally mart quit carrying them? Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Sep 19 17:41:34 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 16:41:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0548DBAA11A345ABA60A5D8AD10D4BF1@jdnet.deere.com> > Carbon Comp or carbon film? Although you can get carbon comp (Mouser) > carbon > film are much more common and a bit less expensive. Either one will do fine. I guess I'm somewhat out of date, carbon comp used to be cheaper. But Dave is quite right, carbon film is cheaper today. Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Sep 19 19:50:26 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 21:50:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Defrost Vent Fitting Message-ID: I am installing the steering on my TR3 and when I tried to fit the defrost nozzle, which goes first over the top 2 screws that secure the upper part of the dash on the driver's side before the steering support bracket, I cannot get it to align so the nozzle opening faces up and into the vent opening. What is preventing this to line up properly is the metal tube for the wiper wire that runs to the wheel box. I removed the cover plate on the wheel box and positioned the tube/wire so it was out of the way and the nozzle then fits up as should be. I can see no way that the tube can be routed so that it would not get in the way of the nozzle. Anyone that has BTDT and can offer some advise, it would be greatly appreciated. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3A From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Sep 19 19:57:41 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 20:57:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? References: Message-ID: <0ABBD2AE77CA4AE1A9DEBA4F7E79486B@KARL> Mike Moore wrote: > About Optimas: I have bought a number of Optima batteries over the past 12 years or so. I started buying them after I had a led acid battery boil over due to overcharging caused by a regulator failure. I have had problems with them though in 3 different cars and will not use them again. I discussed my problems at length with the last dealer (who gave me my money back) and also with an ex dealer. If your system is in great shape, your regulator charges within limits, and you never let the battery get low, they work just fine. They have not proven to be very robust though for me or for the e-dealer or for my current dealer. I had to send one back to a "center" to ensure it was properly charged. The claim that time was that they had to be charged at a very low rate. Then I later read they had to be charged at a very high rate. I'd bet that the Optima problems are mostly related to charging rate/voltage. That's a spiral-wound AGM battery. I went through a battery failure in my plane this year, whereby the flooded cell battery peed electrolyte all over, lifting paint and causing minor corrosion (because I found it before it became major corrosion). It was apparently a battery fault, particularly since only one cell leaked over while the others were fine. No point in experimenting or troubleshooting in that case - it's powering my winch now. I too vowed never to suffer from a leaky battery (in the plane), particularly because of aerobatics, and I went to an "RG/AGM" (recombinant gas / absorbed glass mat), sealed battery. Charging voltage is definitely specified, and it's a little lower than for a normal flooded cell. I have a Battery Minder for the plane too, and it's specially adjusted for aircraft use, to specs set by Gill and Concorde, the two main light aircraft battery manufacturers. Using another charger, improperly using this one, or having the plane's charging system set incorrectly all void the warrantee. But I use plain old Costco (Johnson Controls) batteries in all the cars - they're so inexpensive, have such good RC/CCA specs, last so long, and have such a great warrantee, that I just can't justify buying an Optima for a car. Karl From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Sep 19 20:29:58 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 22:29:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Konig Rewinds Message-ID: Anybody found Koning Rewind wheels that would fit TR8's? I have seen them on TR6's in the past. Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From barrie at look.ca Sat Sep 20 08:24:16 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 10:24:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Majordomo results: Triumphs In-Reply-To: <20080920135321.63BD318786E@autox.team.net> References: <20080920135321.63BD318786E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Has anyone just had their 6 pot Triumph engine rebuilt. If so what did it cost? Regards Barrie Robinson 705-721-9060 (Canada) MGB GT V8 Aston Martin DB 2/4 MkII in the wings http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm TRY www.britcot.com - a unique web site for car goodies From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat Sep 20 08:29:30 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 14:29:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have my battery in the trunk. To avoid the potential acid damage to the carpeting I use an Optima battery. I have returned three of them in five years. My biggest complaint is they will not hold a charge when they are not used for a month. I even went to the length of installing a battery cut off switch to isolate the battery when the car was not running. They still go dead after sitting for a few weeks. I also have to charge them before and after a long road trip. Still there is no acid damage to my trunk carpeting. Best regards,Tom ---------------------------------------- > _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Sep 20 09:46:48 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 11:46:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? References: Message-ID: <001001c91b38$17fb8d50$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> My TR3 carries the least expensive group 24 Auto Zone battery I could find in the factory location with a plastic battery box. It's been in place many years and shows no sign of over charging: spilling acid. I usually use a battery disconnect switch if the car's going to sit for a few weeks or longer; if I can remember to do so, that is. The original Lucas generator seems to keep it charged, even when running in the rain with all lights on, the heater blower running, and the wipers making their feeble attempt to clear the windscreen. I've never had to put the battery on a separate charger, even when the car's idle for the long Winter months. Do have a hi torque starter installed, but just to save the original Lucas for the next owner if there ever is one. Just completed a 2400 mile, 10 day, tour of New York and New England, including a 7 mile drive up 6200 foot Mt. Washington, with no problem other than getting my old bones in and out of the car. The only part replaced was a tail pipe hanger not of Lucas origin. Ed Woods From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Sep 20 15:13:05 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 17:13:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Installing rear IRS hubs Message-ID: Hello, I have been trying to install the rear hubs into my '67 TR4A IRS today with not much luck. Everything was fine until I started to release the strain on the spring compressor. When I do, the hub rotates about 180 degrees and locks up. Seems like a U-joint issue but they are all new. I verified that the grease socket doesn't hit anything. It almost seems like the problem is that the two u-joints on the half shaft should be clocked 90 degrees from each other and that would solve it but the shafts are keyed so they only go on one way. Anybody run into this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From ian.viles at ntlworld.com Sat Sep 20 16:04:18 2008 From: ian.viles at ntlworld.com (Ian Viles) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 23:04:18 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR6 J type OD hiccup Message-ID: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> The J Type overdrive on my TR6 developed 'hiccups' (repeated & intermittent momentary disengagement) in both 3rd and 4th gears towards the end of a recent 100 mile trip. Today I took the car out for a drive with OD switch disconnected and wires connected together - OD still hiccuping - (more so when it had warmed up) - so its not the column switch at fault. Where should I look next? Thanks, Ian Viles 1973 TR6 PI From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Sep 20 16:07:34 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 18:07:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? In-Reply-To: <001001c91b38$17fb8d50$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <001001c91b38$17fb8d50$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <200809201807.34786.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, All this about a battery. After the acid ate my oil pressure line in my 3, I went to a maint. free battery the Delco freedom. That lasted about 7 years and when I needed a new battery I decided to go with the Exide Orbital. At the time it was about 95$ + shipping. I still have the old bullet starter in the 3 and this battery turns over the engine just wonderful. It works so good, when the 4 was ready for the road I got another but in only 1 year the price went up to 135!. This is the 3rd season with the 3 and 2nd with the 4 and no problems. During the winter all batteries are stored in the cellar and get a refresh charge using my battery tender. And no more problems with acid. During the driving season, they hold their charge just great. No problems starting either car even after 2 weeks or more. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 20 16:20:36 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 15:20:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 J type OD hiccup In-Reply-To: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> Message-ID: <20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Where should I look next? When mine did that, it turned out to be one of the connectors to the solenoid. They wouldn't pull off, but were just a bit loose when installed. Pinched both of them a bit tighter with pliers, reinstalled, and the problem went away. But of course there are lots of other places it could be. Randall From auprichard at comcast.net Sat Sep 20 17:32:23 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 19:32:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> <20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> What is the collective wisdom of this group (I know, it sounds like an oxymoron....) on points versus electronic ignition in a TR3 ? When I asked about recoring vs not recoring a radiator, the overwhelming response was to re-core (which I did). What think you now ? Andrew Uprichard From 60TR3A at cox.net Sat Sep 20 17:43:37 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 16:43:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> References: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> <20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: Electronic!!!!!!! Over the past 20 years of LBCs I have used Crane Cams electronic ignitions & have never regretted it. Even bought one recently for my 36 year old son's MGB. It has made them all run like my wife's Honda. John On 20 Sep, 2008, at 4:32 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > What is the collective wisdom of this group (I know, it sounds like an > oxymoron....) on points versus electronic ignition in a TR3 ? > > When I asked about recoring vs not recoring a radiator, the > overwhelming > response was to re-core (which I did). What think you now ? > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From spitlist at cox.net Sat Sep 20 18:03:45 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 17:03:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> References: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4><20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <02C981A90F97445C9EDC824B48AE5772@newcomputer> I originally ran a Crane unit but had to change to the Pertronix when it failed. It did not just stopped working but would not allow the engine to fire above 4000 rpm. I prefer the Pertronix because it does not require one to modify the dizzy in order to install it. This means that you can carry a spare set of points and condenser along with you in case the Pertronix fails. Another advantage is that it is less expensive than the crane unit. Just my humble opinion. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 4:32 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? What is the collective wisdom of this group (I know, it sounds like an oxymoron....) on points versus electronic ignition in a TR3 ? When I asked about recoring vs not recoring a radiator, the overwhelming response was to re-core (which I did). What think you now ? Andrew Uprichard This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 20 19:19:04 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 21:19:04 EDT Subject: [TR] Installing rear IRS hubs Message-ID: In a message dated 9/20/2008 4:14:20 PM Central Daylight Time, dconnitt at fuse.net writes: > Hello, > I have been trying to install the rear hubs into my '67 TR4A IRS today with > not much luck. Everything was fine until I started to release the strain on > the spring compressor. When I do, the hub rotates about 180 degrees and > locks up. Seems like a U-joint issue but they are all new. I verified that > the grease socket doesn't hit anything. It almost seems like the problem is > that the two u-joints on the half shaft should be clocked 90 degrees from > each other and that would solve it but the shafts are keyed so they only go > on one way. > Anybody run into this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > Have you attached the shocks yet? They limit suspension travel and may stop this from happening. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 20 19:19:55 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 21:19:55 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 J type OD hiccup Message-ID: In a message dated 9/20/2008 5:05:33 PM Central Daylight Time, ian.viles at ntlworld.com writes: > The J Type overdrive on my TR6 developed 'hiccups' (repeated &intermittent > momentary disengagement) in both 3rd and 4th gears towards the end of a > recent 100 mile trip. Today I took the car out for a drive with OD switch > disconnected and wires connected together - OD still hiccuping - (more so > when it had warmed up) - so its not the column switch at fault. > Where should I look next? > Have you check the oil level lately? Low level will cause pump starvation and loss of pressure. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 20 19:25:48 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 21:25:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Group 49 battery preferred? Message-ID: Since we are swapping anecdotes: I installed a red top Optima in my TR8 in 2000 at the end of the restoration. After 5 years it required replacement which isn't too bad considering I discharged it flat at least once (left the trunk open). I bought another one and the next year gave it a pretty thorough discharging driving 600 miles with a non-working alternator. It is still working just fine. Holds a charge over months of inactivity and starts the car every time even with a marginal starter. Since the TR8 battery is in the boot, having a non-vented battery is all the more important. Eight years and no acid issues. Clasify me as a satisfied customer. Dave Massey 57 TR3 71 TR6 80 TR8 Member VTR, TWOA, SLTOA From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sat Sep 20 19:27:00 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 18:27:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <02C981A90F97445C9EDC824B48AE5772@newcomputer> References: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> <20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> <02C981A90F97445C9EDC824B48AE5772@newcomputer> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809201826k66add179se7327d3314630f5b@mail.gmail.com> Wisdom yes, but collective is unlikely on this topic. I guess it depends on what your objective is and what you enjoy. I have always used the points and found them to be reliable and easily servicable, but then I actually enjoy fiddling with those things. If you think adjusting valves is fun rather than a chore then perhaps you'll prefer points. Geo > Andrew Uprichard > > What is the collective wisdom of this group (I know, it sounds like an > oxymoron....) on points versus electronic ignition in a TR3 ? From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 20 19:27:34 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 21:27:34 EDT Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/20/2008 6:32:59 PM Central Daylight Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: > What is the collective wisdom of this group (I know, it sounds like an > oxymoron....) on points versus electronic ignition in a TR3 ? > This topic was covered a short while ago and the collective opinion is divided. There are advantages to both. But if you are counting, I vote for the Crane XR700. I have units on two cars for 8+ years and no issues. Dave From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Sep 20 22:19:27 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 00:19:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] battery summary Message-ID: <009001c91ba1$3e8073a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Now after kicking around the battery selection for a week or so... I still am confused. However, now I think the important selection criteria for me is: I now think that CCA and RC is the most importent criteria. Next is weight (needs to be 45 pounds or less), and color (is important for me) Price is last. Would you agree on these? Also, maintainence free batteries have alot going for them. In fact, I wonder if batteries that are sealed are maintainence free (even though they are not called 'maintainance free' ? I quess my thinking that the TR3 needed a huge and powerful battery(longer than a group 24 battery) is somewhat wrong. Also, recently there was an email saying something about 'vented batteries'...What are they? Thanks, Paul From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 20 22:42:39 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 22:42:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> References: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4><20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <37B35C314C0447ADA440E7A065DA6E06@sniffer> If originality is not a concern then the petronix will be more dependable... Me, I'm with Geo in that I like to have something to fiddle with, I guess that why I have a Triumph in the first place! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Saturday, September 20, 2008 5:32 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? What is the collective wisdom of this group (I know, it sounds like an oxymoron....) on points versus electronic ignition in a TR3 ? When I asked about recoring vs not recoring a radiator, the overwhelming response was to re-core (which I did). What think you now ? Andrew Uprichard This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1682 - Release Date: 9/20/2008 10:24 AM From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 21 07:52:31 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 08:52:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] fuel pump Message-ID: <000601c91bf1$4c3a0970$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> hi, all. hope your fall is as pleasant as ours here in Texas! is there a set of instructions for rebuilding a fuel pump anywhere? i'm about to do that. if not, i'll document and post it. thanks! From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Sep 21 07:54:18 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 13:54:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: <092120081354.11693.48D6520A000CCBF600002DAD22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Hello, all. Have run in circles in the restoration process around gauges. The original Temperature Gauge had a snipped capillary, so swapped out for a (TR-4?) electric temp gauge. Converted to an altenator, so the Amp Gauge doesn't do anything. Bought a series of fuel gauges from e-bay after the original stopped working. Sent the whole mess to Mo-Ma but over $700 later, attempts to coax cooperation from a guy with an accent and attitude there,and a fuel gauge that stopped working after 6 months, I am ready to call it quits. Am thinking of converting to SunPro 2 inch gauges with black dials and chrome bezels, which are a nice match for the car. Only thing that may not be convertible is the fuel guage, which has to match with the sending unit. Has anyone ever swapped out their standard Triumph gas sending unit by retrofitting a mounting plate? Advice on a sending unit? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From cm.sherman at verizon.net Sun Sep 21 07:54:46 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 08:54:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: <19405139.4559541222005286147.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> I just love how topical the list is... I too seem to have been having ignition/running problems. While the Pertronix solution is an attractive one - and to a large degree relatively reliable - it to does fail. I have them installed in both my TR6 and TR3... and within two years (seasons) I have run into problems. In my TR6, after testing everything... yup, my problems traced back to the Pertronix. Spent hours diagnosing and testing, only to discover the unit was the problem. Switched back to points and never looked back. Now similar problems with the TR3... repeat of the same non-sense, be Pertronix website and tech support is less than helpful. So, if experience serves any purpose, learn from one's know mistakes... installing points again. While points require tinkering, what makes these cars wonderful is the lack of electronics and computers... the mechanics are simple to diagnosis and repair. Given how much I drive, a simple ride is better than high performance, high-maintenance one. Cheers Corey Sherman On Sun, Sep 21, 2008 at 12:42 AM, wbeech wrote: > If originality is not a concern then the petronix will be more > dependable... Me, I'm with Geo in that I like to have something to fiddle with, I guess that why I have a Triumph in the first place! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 21 07:58:40 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 08:58:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges References: <092120081354.11693.48D6520A000CCBF600002DAD22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001101c91bf2$284c62a0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> i, too had trouble with mo ma. they kept my gages for a while without giving me any updates. after a few phone calls they finally said they weren't interested in repairing them and sent them back. i ended up using a place in california, but after they fixed the speedo i realized the odometer is about 50% shy of reality. i guess i should pull it and send it back. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 8:54 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges > Hello, all. > > Have run in circles in the restoration process around gauges. The > original Temperature Gauge had a snipped capillary, so swapped out for a > (TR-4?) electric temp gauge. Converted to an altenator, so the Amp Gauge > doesn't do anything. Bought a series of fuel gauges from e-bay after the > original stopped working. Sent the whole mess to Mo-Ma but over $700 > later, attempts to coax cooperation from a guy with an accent and attitude > there,and a fuel gauge that stopped working after 6 months, I am ready to > call it quits. > > Am thinking of converting to SunPro 2 inch gauges with black dials and > chrome bezels, which are a nice match for the car. Only thing that may > not be convertible is the fuel guage, which has to match with the sending > unit. > > Has anyone ever swapped out their standard Triumph gas sending unit by > retrofitting a mounting plate? Advice on a sending unit? > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 21 08:09:40 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 07:09:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges In-Reply-To: <092120081354.11693.48D6520A000CCBF600002DAD22155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080921140940.BVKS21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Converted to > an altenator, so the Amp Gauge doesn't do anything. Doesn't have to be that way, my original ammeter works just fine with my 60 amp Ford alternator. > Has anyone ever swapped out their standard Triumph gas > sending unit by retrofitting a mounting plate? Sorry, can't help you there. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Sep 21 08:32:54 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:32:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: <092120081432.24133.48D65B16000CADE800005E4522155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > While points require tinkering, what makes these cars wonderful is the > lack of electronics and computers... the mechanics are simple to > diagnosis and repair. Given how much I drive, a simple ride is better > than high performance, high-maintenance one. I drive my 3 every day, about an hour and a half total commute. I pretty much wanted to stick with points, but as I got to know the car, I came to feel the degradation that you get after you first install points and have driven for a period of time. Switched to Pertronix, and get optimal performance without having to adjust the points on a weekend when I have so many other things to do. Since then, the car has never run smoother at high speed. Plus, I do enjoy the surprise on people's faces when this 50 year old car starts with a half-second punch of the button, due to electronic ignition coupled with an electric fuel pump. 'Course, reality returns when I leave my parking spot and they see the oil marks.... :-) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From spamiam at comcast.net Sun Sep 21 09:54:14 2008 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 11:54:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Installing rear IRS hubs References: Message-ID: <5BB4DCDA0CAB4E9C8769A7C3A027C261@p4server> Why are you using a spring compressor? All you need to do in heck up the car on that side, then put a second jack under the trailing arm, and lift it a bit. Then unbolt the shock link for the arm, then gently lower the arm until the spring disengages. Then remove the spring and lift the arm back into "normal" position on the second jack. THen you can unbolt the hub from the trailing arm and slife out the outer half of the halfshaft Wire the 2 halves of the half shaft together, or allow the outer half of the halfshaft to come free from the inner half. When the yokes in both sides of the Y-joints are correct the U-joint has an almost "loose" articulation. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Message: 1 > Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 17:13:05 -0400 > From: "Dave Connitt" > Subject: [TR] Installing rear IRS hubs > To: "Triumphs" > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > Hello, > I have been trying to install the rear hubs into my '67 TR4A IRS today > with > not much luck. Everything was fine until I started to release the strain > on > the spring compressor. When I do, the hub rotates about 180 degrees and > locks up. Seems like a U-joint issue but they are all new. I verified that > the grease socket doesn't hit anything. It almost seems like the problem > is > that the two u-joints on the half shaft should be clocked 90 degrees from > each other and that would solve it but the shafts are keyed so they only > go > on one way. > Anybody run into this? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks in advance, > Dave Connitt > '67 TR4A > http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Sep 21 11:38:28 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 10:38:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] battery summary In-Reply-To: <009001c91ba1$3e8073a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <009001c91ba1$3e8073a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809211038w58ee2654qa5b9e4250b872b5d@mail.gmail.com> It's just a battery. I have always used something cheap from WalMart and never found one that would not crank with alacrity and start right up... if the engine is in fine fettle. If there is a problem with tune, ignition, fuel or the starter... a bigger battery is not the answer. If appearance is important then rip the labels off, put some faux Lucas labels on and replace the 3-port cell cap with 6 vintage individual caps: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR3-Battery.JPG http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/TR4-Battery.JPG If it is a sealed battery you can make a simple masonite topper to simulate a traditional style: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/battery%20topper.JPG If leakage is a concern then there are ways to limit that (at a price and not w/o some possible prolem it seems). Geo On 9/20/08, dorpaul wrote: > Now after kicking around the battery selection for a week or so... I still > am confused. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Sep 21 11:51:44 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 10:51:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <092120081432.24133.48D65B16000CADE800005E4522155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <092120081432.24133.48D65B16000CADE800005E4522155670749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809211051o3b7706e9h72f98b820b856ed@mail.gmail.com> This appears to be a 'boxers vs briefs' choice. My only car was the TR4 (until a fan blade exited in a vertical trajectory this week) now the TR3 takes over. I don't have a commute but I do drive often and from where I live it is more than a half hour to anything, still points serve me fine. Geo (briefs) On 9/21/08, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > > I drive my 3 every day, about an hour and a half total commute. I pretty > much wanted to stick with points, but as I got to know the car, I came to > feel the degradation that you get after you first install points and have > driven for a period of time... From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 21 12:29:53 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:29:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> References: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> <20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <48D692A1.1090107@earthlink.net> Pertronix! You can hide it and you don't have to drill into a good body. Joe Andrew Uprichard wrote: > What is the collective wisdom of this group (I know, it sounds like an > oxymoron....) on points versus electronic ignition in a TR3 ? > > When I asked about recoring vs not recoring a radiator, the overwhelming > response was to re-core (which I did). What think you now ? > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Sep 21 12:31:35 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:31:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <19405139.4559541222005286147.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> References: <19405139.4559541222005286147.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <48D69307.6060108@earthlink.net> Strange. I've heard that from my mechanic too. However, (knock on wood), I've yet to have a problem with the unit in the TR6 for the last 10 years. I wonder if the older ones are better? Joe Corey Sherman wrote: > I just love how topical the list is... I too seem to have been having > ignition/running problems. While the Pertronix solution is an attractive > one - and to a large degree relatively reliable - it to does fail. I > have them installed in both my TR6 and TR3... and within two years > (seasons) I have run into problems. > > In my TR6, after testing everything... yup, my problems traced back to > the Pertronix. Spent hours diagnosing and testing, only to discover the > unit was the problem. Switched back to points and never looked back. > > Now similar problems with the TR3... repeat of the same non-sense, be > Pertronix website and tech support is less than helpful. So, if > experience serves any purpose, learn from one's know mistakes... > installing points again. > > While points require tinkering, what makes these cars wonderful is the > lack of electronics and computers... the mechanics are simple to > diagnosis and repair. Given how much I drive, a simple ride is better > than high performance, high-maintenance one. > > Cheers > Corey Sherman > > On Sun, Sep 21, 2008 at 12:42 AM, wbeech wrote: > > >> If originality is not a concern then the petronix will be more >> dependable... >> > Me, I'm with Geo in that I like to have something to fiddle with, I > guess > that why I have a Triumph in the first place! > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 21 12:34:26 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:34:26 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: In a message dated 9/21/08 6:59:10 AM, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: > i, too had trouble with mo ma. they kept my gages for a while without > giving me any updates. after a few phone calls they finally said they > weren't interested in repairing them and sent them back. > > i ended up using a place in california, but after they fixed the speedo i > realized the odometer is about 50% shy of reality. i guess i should pull it > and send it back. > > > I have know Maragaret for many many years. She has done all my guages on all my cars. She does many cars for Pebble Beach (I always mail her a program each year and she is always excited about seeing the cars for which she has done guages.) She has done a lot for the hobby, but if she senses she is being pushed or treated with disrespect , she does not want the business, I have heard her side of a couple of customer interfaces, and it seemed to me like she thought she was treated rudely in those cases. It sounds to me like there was a misunderstanding. (I did get yelled at by her once after I broke th third speedo glass in a week and she was tired of sending me free replacements!) Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From Loumetelko at aol.com Sun Sep 21 12:39:29 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:39:29 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: I am shocked to hear of complaints concerning MO-MA. Back in 2002, I sent all six gauges for restoration and although they looked rather rough initially, I was and still am pleased with the finished product. The owner, Margaret Lucas, was a model of professionalism throughout the entire process with notes concerning completion date, price, etc. I don't know if Margaret is still involved with the business but if not it is another example of new owners dragging down the service and product while retaining the price. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 21 12:44:44 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:44:44 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: In a message dated 9/21/08 11:40:05 AM, Loumetelko at aol.com writes: > I am shocked to hear of complaints concerning MO-MA. Back in 2002, I sent > all six gauges for restoration and although they looked rather rough > initially, > I was and still am pleased with the finished product. The owner, Margaret > Lucas, was a model of professionalism throughout the entire process with > notes > concerning completion date, price, etc. I don't know if Margaret is still > involved with the business but if not it is another example of new owners > dragging > down the service and product while retaining the price. > > Lou Metelko > Auburn, Indiana > > Margaret still runs the business, but don't get on her bad side. She is absolutely professional but will turn down business in a heartbeat if she thinks you're hard to get along with; in my opinion. Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From mathews at uga.edu Sun Sep 21 12:53:38 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:53:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] [at-l] Keep Me Connected, part 1 In-Reply-To: References: <295295.96449.qm@web35203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <48d67ee9.1386460a.4859.0934SMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <20080921185344.655C7187647@autox.team.net> I really agree, One of the things I like getting "out" is getting away from contact, pc's, email, the web...and not really knowing what goes on or really, putting "caring" on the back burner. Are you sure there is no on/off sequence? My phone has no on/off per se, but I can turn it on and off. What phone did you get? If you've not had it but a short while, a lot of times you can take it back. Good luck! Doug At 02:41 PM 9/21/2008, you wrote: >True, but it was a lot easier to just turn it off and the assumption >that we wouldn't want to turn it off irritates me. That is exactly >what Mags was talking about, the cultural expectation that we must >be available 24/7. From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Sep 21 12:58:09 2008 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 11:58:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Hard Top Rack Message-ID: <521012.28632.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am looking to build a rack to hold my newly acquired TR6 hard top. Does anyone have plans or a weblink for a rack? When I google TR6 hard top rack I find only TR6's with hard tops and trunk racks. I would rather build one myself than buy one. TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA 1960 TR3A 1974 TR6 From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Sun Sep 21 13:09:28 2008 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 12:09:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Looking for a banged up TR6 front left fender Message-ID: <552978.31720.qm@web83303.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have a rebuildable TR6 front left fender. However, at the forward end on the base is pretty eaten away and I don't want to fabricate any more than I have to. Does anyone have a bashed up/unrebuildable front left fender where I could cut out the desired section from the bottom and patch it in? Repro fenders, rebuilt fenders and triumphsonly fenders are too expensive for me right now and none of the big three are selling repair panels. Thanks, Bill Brewer From banjonut at verizon.net Sun Sep 21 13:58:59 2008 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 12:58:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] looking for shipper Message-ID: Good afternoon list. It's time for my TR3 engine to come home from the rebuilder. I'm trying to find a shipper who can move it from Newport, Oregon to Lompoc, California. Can anybody steer me toward a reliable shipper on the west coast? I've thought about going up there myself in a pickup and bringing it home (probably 18 hrs each way), but the logistics don't work out for me, at least for the next few weeks. Also, renting a pickup locally seems to be a problem, since U-Haul says they're only rented for "local" (in town) moves, and in one other case (Enterprise) their trucks can't be driven into Oregon. Thanks in advance for any ideas. Please respond off list since I get the digest. Steve Ball Lompoc Calif. email: banjonut at verizon.net From cak at dimebank.com Sun Sep 21 14:13:35 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 13:13:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48D6AAEF.4040603@dimebank.com> Palo Alto Speedometer, North Hollywood, West Valley and APT Speedometer all get high praise in the Monster List (www.dimebank.com/gauges) From barrie at look.ca Sun Sep 21 15:11:26 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 17:11:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> References: <008e01c91b6c$d7a5b930$85540e56@ianvmx5y8r7iz4> <20080920222037.ZPEO979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <3FD7E956344A44F39A27F34CB0085903@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: Installing electronic ignition in the original dizzy is an excellent idea - BUT keep a set of mechanical points in your car in case of electronic failure - not that they fail often. But one carries a spare tyre and when did you last have a puncture? At 07:32 PM 9/20/2008, Andrew Uprichard wrote: >What is the collective wisdom of this group (I know, it sounds like an >oxymoron....) on points versus electronic ignition in a TR3 ? > >When I asked about recoring vs not recoring a radiator, the overwhelming >response was to re-core (which I did). What think you now ? > >Andrew Uprichard >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 21 15:28:26 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:28:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080921212826.HMAE21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Margaret still runs the business, but don't get on her bad > side. She is absolutely professional but will turn down > business in a heartbeat if she thinks you're hard to get > along with; in my opinion. Which likely goes hand-in-hand with the other thing I've heard: that she has a backlog of orders and can't keep up. Randall From banc8004 at comcast.net Sun Sep 21 15:30:02 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:30:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 471 Message-ID: <092120082130.9657.48D6BCDA000B977A000025B92207300033CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> > From: 60TR3A <60TR3A at cox.net> > Subject: Re: [TR] collective wisdom ? > "Electronic!!!!!!! > > It has made them all run like my wife's Honda." Believe me, I'm no purist. If having your TR run like your wife's Honda makes you happy, have at it. For me its not in the 'spirit' of a 1950-60s car. But that's me, and contact breaker points are part of the charm. That two tiny contacts, adjusted to 15 thou, allow this car to come alive, appeals to me. Its why I have this car rather than a Miata. The other side of this is practicality: Points decay; electronic ignition fails catastrophically, without warning Replacement points cost <$10, and could fit in the ashtray. Replacement electronic ignition costs $$$. Hearing drivers tell me they carry a spare distributor, with spare electronic ignition within, "in case of failure", knowing of failures leaving other drivers up 'sh*t creek without a paddle', leads me to stick to analogue. I believe I'm more likely to get home. Brian From barrie at look.ca Sun Sep 21 15:31:00 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 17:31:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Please can somebody give me Mo Ma's email/web site info I can supply the O-rings used in gauges - go to www.britcot.com At 02:34 PM 9/21/2008, MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 9/21/08 6:59:10 AM, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: > > > > i, too had trouble with mo ma. they kept my gages for a while without > > giving me any updates. after a few phone calls they finally said they > > weren't interested in repairing them and sent them back. > > > > i ended up using a place in california, but after they fixed the speedo i > > realized the odometer is about 50% shy of reality. i guess i should pull >it > > and send it back. > > > > > > > >I have know Maragaret for many many years. She has done all my guages on all >my cars. She does many cars for Pebble Beach (I always mail her a program each >year and she is always excited about seeing the cars for which she has done >guages.) > > She has done a lot for the hobby, but if she senses she is being pushed or >treated with disrespect , she does not want the business, > >I have heard her side of a couple of customer interfaces, and it seemed to me >like she thought she was treated rudely in those cases. It sounds to me >like there was a misunderstanding. > >(I did get yelled at by her once after I broke th third speedo glass in a >week and she was tired of sending me free replacements!) > >Mike Moore > > > >************** >Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial >challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and >calculators. > (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Sep 21 15:36:45 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:36:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080921213645.HPAJ21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Please can somebody give me Mo Ma's email/web site info I don't believe there is a web site; and I've heard she's not good about answering email. An old fashioned phone call or letter is more likely to have the results you desire. But here's the info: MO-MA 1321 2nd St NW Albuquerque, NM 87102 (505) 766-6661 momanm at aol.com Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 21 15:38:05 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 16:38:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges References: <20080921213645.HPAJ21396.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <000301c91c32$56e572b0$7c01a8c0@Ranteer.local> i've heard, and experienced, that she doesn't have time for triumphs and mgs. high dollar items, yes. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Barrie Robinson'" ; ; ; Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 4:36 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Gauges >> Please can somebody give me Mo Ma's email/web site info > > I don't believe there is a web site; and I've heard she's not good about > answering email. An old fashioned phone call or letter is more likely to > have the results you desire. But here's the info: > > MO-MA > 1321 2nd St NW > Albuquerque, NM 87102 > (505) 766-6661 > momanm at aol.com > > Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Sep 21 15:58:21 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 16:58:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] [at-l] Keep Me Connected, part 1 References: <295295.96449.qm@web35203.mail.mud.yahoo.com><48d67ee9.1386460a.4859.0934SMTPIN_ADDED@mx.google.com> <20080921185344.655C7187647@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <002401c91c35$65054b60$7c01a8c0@Ranteer.local> i totally agree. my wife is expected to essentially work during vacation!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doug Mathews" To: "Jim Bullard" ; Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 1:53 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [at-l] Keep Me Connected, part 1 >I really agree, One of the things I like getting "out" is getting > away from contact, pc's, email, the web...and not really knowing what > goes on or really, putting "caring" on the back burner. > > Are you sure there is no on/off sequence? My phone has no on/off per > se, but I can turn it on and off. What phone did you get? If you've > not had it but a short while, a lot of times you can take it back. > > Good luck! > > Doug > > At 02:41 PM 9/21/2008, you wrote: >>True, but it was a lot easier to just turn it off and the assumption >>that we wouldn't want to turn it off irritates me. That is exactly >>what Mags was talking about, the cultural expectation that we must >>be available 24/7 From Loumetelko at aol.com Sun Sep 21 17:38:19 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 19:38:19 EDT Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: It seems fairly common advice to carry a spare point distributor plate for if and when the electronic system fails but I have never heard the advice to carry an electronic version if the points system fails!! Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 21 17:43:21 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 19:43:21 EDT Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/21/08 4:39:51 PM, Loumetelko at aol.com writes: > It seems fairly common advice to carry a spare point distributor plate for > if > and when the electronic system fails but I have never heard the advice to > carry an electronic version if the points system fails!! > > Lou Metelko > Auburn, Indiana > > I've had the problem of a total EI failure and a 90 mile tow. I've also had the problem of a rough idle and no way to troubke shoot it witout swapping outthe EI for points, It was the EI, repaired by Crane under warranty, but never installed again. The second problem was the worst as it took me weeks of trying everything else but the EI. Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 21 18:50:13 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 20:50:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] 3's inner tach cable Message-ID: <000601c91c4d$2cbb6d30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I'm getting close to cranking and running my TR3 (for only a short while) with the car up on a ramp...but first... off ebay, I bought a TR3's tach cable. It looks fine, I removed the inner cable (which looks great) and sprayed the inner cable's housing tube/outer-cable filling it up with bought spray-type lubricant (Dupont Teflon lubricant). Now, I could simply re-insert the long inner-cable, but, maybe I ought to grease it first. What with??? Should I hang the outer cable out to dry first? I think i've got a 'grease needle' and maybe I should pump grease (with a grease gun) into them once the inner cable is back in place? or do nothing? I'm itching to fool with it! Thanks, Paul -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 935 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From eoot at citlink.net Sun Sep 21 19:12:56 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:12:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] 3's inner tach cable References: <000601c91c4d$2cbb6d30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <016401c91c50$5bcd9190$640a0a0a@WANDERER> No grease! It attracts and holds dirt. Stop by your local cycle shop and pick up some cable lube. Or, wild as it may seem...don't fool with it anymore...install that puppy. ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 8:50 PM Subject: [TR] 3's inner tach cable > I'm getting close to cranking and running my TR3 (for only a short while) > with > the car up on a ramp...but first... > > off ebay, I bought a TR3's tach cable. It looks fine, I removed the inner > cable (which looks great) and sprayed the inner cable's housing > tube/outer-cable filling it up with bought spray-type lubricant (Dupont > Teflon > lubricant). Now, I could simply re-insert the long inner-cable, but, > maybe I > ought to grease it first. > > What with??? > Should I hang the outer cable out to dry first? > I think i've got a 'grease needle' and maybe I should pump grease (with a > grease gun) into them once the inner cable is back in place? or do > nothing? > > I'm itching to fool with it! > Thanks, Paul > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. > SPAMfighter has removed 935 spam emails to date. > Paying users do not have this message in their emails. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sun Sep 21 19:43:53 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:43:53 EDT Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/21/2008 10:33:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Plus, I do enjoy the surprise on people's faces when this 50 year old car starts with a half-second punch of the button, due to electronic ignition coupled with an electric fuel pump. 'Course, reality returns when I leave my parking spot and they see the oil marks.... :-) I'm not picking on you, Terry, but half-second starts are what my Herald always gives me, with its points and original AC fuel pump. I'll grant you, that's after it's been running a minute or two. It does usually take a few seconds to catch when it's been sitting cold awhile (sadly, that's usually up to a week between opportunities to drive it), and maybe a bit less if I bother to prime the carb with the fuel pump lever. (I never bother with that, figuring that it makes as much sense to let the engine spin a few times without firing to get the oil circulating). And bless it's little heart, I don't even leave much of anything in the way of "territory-markings"! :-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Sep 21 20:48:09 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 22:48:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2008 British Invasion Message-ID: <8CAEA74C7EFA4A1-E14-111D@webmail-me10.sysops.aol.com> Hello, This was the British Invasion weekend and unlike last year Saturday's weather was simply gorgeous.? The result was over 600 cars and many, many people.? As always there were some incredible cars and some unique personalities.? Some list members also showed up and it was nice to meet old friends and make some new ones.? One of our list members, Dave Friedlander from Gorham, Maine, was finally able to drive his own TR6 to the show after 12 + years of restoration.? His hard work did not go unrecognized as he was able to take 2nd place in the 74-76 TR6 class.? Several other list members in the same class weren't so happy for Dave and were seen with their keys out hovering around his car.? Check out the link below for a picture of a very happy TR6 owner. I have uploaded a sampling of pictures at triumphowners.com/108 for those of you who would like to check out some of the show.? Open the link, scroll down and click on the link titled 2008 British Invasion. Enjoy. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine From nwolf at u.washington.edu Mon Sep 22 01:34:00 2008 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 00:34:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] battery summary Message-ID: On Sun, Sep 21, 2008 at 6:54 AM, wrote: [...] >I wonder if batteries that are sealed are maintainence free (even though >they are not called 'maintainance free' ? [...] >Also, recently there was an email saying something about 'vented >batteries'...What are they? Hi Paul The two main categories of car batteries are Vented and Valve-Regulated. "Vented" batteries are the ones you see all the time with caps on top, prone to occasional leaks and sometimes in need of topping up. "Valve-Regulated Lead-Acids" (VRLA's), also known as "Recombinant" batteries, are supposed to recombine any H and O produced during charging, so that they don't have to vent under normal operation. They are also referred to as "Sealed" batteries (though they have pressure-relief valves), or "Maintenance Free" (though you still have to keep them charged). AGM's, including Optimas and Exide Orbitals, are VRLA's. -Nick Wolf '62-ish TR4 Seattle From clarkja34 at netscape.net Mon Sep 22 03:53:54 2008 From: clarkja34 at netscape.net (clarkja34 at netscape.net) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 05:53:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph pedal cars Message-ID: <8CAEAB042434C50-6D0-22E@WEBMAIL-MC05.sysops.aol.com> Hi everyone. ?I am very interested in finding out everything about these Triumph pedal cars.If you have any relative information or pictures or can name the manufacturers of these please let me know at? my email address clarkja34 at netscape.net????? I know Triumph pedal cars were produced in TR3 models ,several TR4 models and even a TR7 model. There may be others but I don't know of any. If you know the names of anyone who might have information on these please pass on there names so I can contact them directly. Thanking you in advance for all your help. See Yah Jim Clark From DLylis at aol.com Mon Sep 22 05:25:23 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 07:25:23 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: IMHO anyone who can turn down business or refuses to take business because they don't like you, in this business environment is charging too much for their services. Just my two Euros worth. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From DLylis at aol.com Mon Sep 22 05:31:24 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 07:31:24 EDT Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: My TR6 has points and original fuel pump and I always start it by standing outside (always double checking that it is in neutral, of course). I usually have a little prep work to do before leaving the garage and it gives me the chance to warm it a little without the extra in and out of the car. The only time it needs to crank a little is if it has been sitting for more than a week. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Sep 22 05:55:04 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 07:55:04 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: In a message dated 9/22/08 4:26:07 AM, DLylis at aol.com writes: > IMHO anyone who can turn down business or refuses to take business because > they don't like you, in this business environment is charging too much for > their services. > > Just my two Euros worth. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > In a message dated 9/22/08 4:26:07 AM, DLylis at aol.com writes: > IMHO anyone who can turn down business or refuses to take business because > they don't like you, in this business environment is charging too much for > their services. > > Just my two Euros worth. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > David, It is a joy to be in that position I assure you. There are some individuals and companies my family owned business is always too busy to accomodate. There are others for whom I will fly away to met on a moments notice no matter how busy we are. My favorite body shop, which has been in business for 35 years and who specialize in Astons, Jags, TRs,AH, MG etc. will be too busy to do business with some people also. If you go into their shop for a quotation and try to tell them exactly how to paint their car ("absolutely no bondo"), how you want it sanded with what grit, what primer, whose paint to use etc., you may find they are too busy. Its all about attitude. Or, if you are just a PIA to deal with, they will not be available. Their work is outstanding and inexepensive for the level of work they do. They are factory auithorized for most high end cars (MB, BMW, Jag etc.) I also have a friend who manages a very large used parts (salvage yard) specializing in Jaguars. He once told me that hobbyists take up 90% of his time but are only 10% of his business. Tech sessions and tours which he provides are big losers for him, but he does it . That may be true of other car related businesses. I try to be very careful and make sure I treat all suppliers with respect. We need them! Best, MIke Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From mgodley at tiac.net Mon Sep 22 06:41:35 2008 From: mgodley at tiac.net (Michael Godley) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 08:41:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Collective Wisdom Message-ID: <7B6F27D526EC432B906BCF5B23D588DF@MichaelPC> Andrew. I had a Allison/Crane unit on my 4A for almost 30 years and it work(s) fine. That said I would have the distributor rebuilt by a professional (e.g. Advanced Distributors- NFA) either with points or Electronic to make sure that the vacuum advance is working properly, advance curve is optimal, bushings are good, etc. Yes, I switched "back to points" and the car has never run better. I have the Alison/Crane unit in my trunk as the backup. This goes against the grain of what I see as the "conventional wisdom", but I am really trying to make the case for having the distributor rebuilt regardless of whether you use points or not...the electronic ignition will mask some of the problems associated with worn bushings, but won't help problems associated with a bad vacuum advance, etc. Cheers Michael Godley 65TR4A From scott at sabutler.com Mon Sep 22 06:42:06 2008 From: scott at sabutler.com (Scott A. Butler) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 08:42:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Needle Sticks Message-ID: My speedo needle sticks, either slow to register speeds lower than 25 when accelerating or not returning to 0 when slowing. Any tips on fixing this myself? The housing on the back of the speedo looks like it is spotwelded in place and I have been reluctant to loosen the two slotted screws on the back. In Digest 2:473 someone mentioned Margaret and it sound like she fixes gauges. If Margaret works on speedos, how can I get in touch with her? With best regards, Scott Butler c. 330-348-1619 Chagrin Falls, OH 1976 TR6 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 22 07:47:37 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 13:47:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] 3's inner tach cable In-Reply-To: <016401c91c50$5bcd9190$640a0a0a@WANDERER> References: <000601c91c4d$2cbb6d30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <016401c91c50$5bcd9190$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: Stop by your local parts store and buy some cable lube. It is a graphite based product that comes in a small tube and has a liquid consistency. When I lube a cable I pull the cable back into the housing far enough to allow a 25G syringe needle in to the housing. I draw the lube up into the syringe and inject 1/2 - 1 Ml. into the housing. Works like a charm. Best regards,Tom - _________________________________________________________________ Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 22 08:34:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 07:34:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Needle Sticks In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080922143438.HMMA846.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Any tips on fixing this myself? http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/speedo.pdf > In Digest 2:473 someone mentioned Margaret and it sound like > she fixes gauges. If Margaret works on speedos, how can I get > in touch with her? MO-MA 1321 2nd St NW Albuquerque, NM 87102 (505) 766-6661 momanm at aol.com Randall From leejohn7 at gmail.com Mon Sep 22 09:44:45 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 08:44:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Collective Wisdom In-Reply-To: <7B6F27D526EC432B906BCF5B23D588DF@MichaelPC> References: <7B6F27D526EC432B906BCF5B23D588DF@MichaelPC> Message-ID: I installed a Crane unit on my TR6 some 25 years ago. It failed within 2 years, I reinstalled points and drove happily with a quick starting car until its sale 10 years ago. I eventually sold the replacement unit that Crane sent on Ebay. On my current TR4, I had the distributor rebuilt and recurved for the increased compression and street cam, use the stock fuel pump and points, and have another quick starting car. Sounds mighty smooth to me at highway speeds, although a bit whiney just now with the OD on the blink. Just my experience John Howard On Mon, Sep 22, 2008 at 5:41 AM, Michael Godley wrote: > Andrew. > > > > I had a Allison/Crane unit on my 4A for almost 30 years and it work(s) > fine. > That said I would have the distributor rebuilt by a professional (e.g. > Advanced Distributors- NFA) either with points or Electronic to make sure > that the vacuum advance is working properly, advance curve is optimal, > bushings are good, etc. > > > > Yes, I switched "back to points" and the car has never run better. I have > the Alison/Crane unit in my trunk as the backup. This goes against the > grain of what I see as the "conventional wisdom", but I am really trying to > make the case for having the distributor rebuilt regardless of whether you > use points or not...the electronic ignition will mask some of the problems > associated with worn bushings, but won't help problems associated with a > bad > vacuum advance, etc. > > > > Cheers > > > > > > Michael Godley > > 65TR4A > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From drsandner at embarqmail.com Mon Sep 22 10:06:44 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 12:06:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] british invasion Message-ID: hi aaron, thank you for sharing your pictures. randy sandner From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon Sep 22 13:27:45 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 15:27:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: Or, perhaps they are charging too little? Jim ============================ From: DLylis at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Gauges IMHO anyone who can turn down business or refuses to take business because they don't like you, in this business environment is charging too much for their services. Just my two Euros worth. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Sep 22 14:39:31 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:39:31 +0100 Subject: [TR] Sadly, she's got to go Message-ID: <05ec01c91cf3$51935310$0201a8c0@Bevan> Listers, this is just to let it be known that my much-loved fuel-injected Triumph BIG SIX saloon (sedan) has hit ebay today with the following reference number 300260902536. I'd really love it if a Triumph enthusiast bought her but I've not been able to use her at all this year and the same will apply next year too. So, sadly we've come to a parting of the ways. Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From supertr6 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 22 18:06:34 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:06:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hard Top Rack In-Reply-To: <521012.28632.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <521012.28632.qm@web83314.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48D8330A.5060705@earthlink.net> I bought the hardtop rack for a BMW Z3 from BMW. I went to Home Deport and bought bolts to extend the legs to keep the C pillars from hitting the floor. Works great and still has the casters. Joe William Brewer wrote: > I am looking to build a rack to hold my newly acquired TR6 hard top. Does anyone have plans or a weblink for a rack? When I google TR6 hard top rack I find only TR6's with hard tops and trunk racks. > I would rather build one myself than buy one. > > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > 1960 TR3A > 1974 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From supertr6 at earthlink.net Mon Sep 22 18:10:05 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:10:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Needle Sticks In-Reply-To: <20080922143438.HMMA846.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080922143438.HMMA846.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <48D833DD.9040301@earthlink.net> Ditto. They do a fantastic job and stick behind their work. Joe PS: THIS IS WHY WE NEED TO GO TO A NEW SYSTEM! Like, say, the one used for WWW.FERRARICHAT.COM. Searchable, has pictures, we can archive things... HINT HINT.... Randall wrote: >> Any tips on fixing this myself? >> > > http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/speedo.pdf > > >> In Digest 2:473 someone mentioned Margaret and it sound like >> she fixes gauges. If Margaret works on speedos, how can I get >> in touch with her? >> > > MO-MA > 1321 2nd St NW > Albuquerque, NM 87102 > (505) 766-6661 > momanm at aol.com > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From areich at telus.net Mon Sep 22 18:26:37 2008 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 17:26:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets Message-ID: <48D837BD.2070609@telus.net> Greetings ... Still having problems with my TR3 and blowing head gaskets (and other stuff) Talking to a respected british car mechanic today, discussing my problems and told him my cylinder compression readings were 170 to 175, and he suggested that was pretty high and could be a problem. So the thought came to me that maybe one of the Moss Steel Shim head gaskets could be an answer. I understand they were originally used to lower the compression ratio in countries with lower octane gas. Have any listers had experience with this?? Would you use a regular gasket as well? If both, which would go on the block first? Allan Reich Vancouver 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O) From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Sep 22 18:31:42 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 00:31:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: <092320080031.6350.48D838EE000AFCC9000018CE22155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > My only car was the TR4 (until a fan blade exited in a vertical > trajectory this week) now the TR3 takes over. I don't have a commute > but I do drive often and from where I live it is more than a half hour > to anything, still points serve me fine. > > Geo (briefs) Alas, as research indicates, airflow affects fertility. Perhaps a conversation we should avoid? Terry (boxers) :0) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 22 18:35:54 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:35:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] British Invasion Pictures Message-ID: <55A52ECB05DE46879C06CE024C951BE4@bobspc> I just updated my site with 6 pages of pictures. I had to break it up so that they would load quickly on slower connections. Here they are: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BritishInvasion2008.htm From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Sep 22 19:02:47 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 01:02:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: <092320080102.17608.48D84037000184EC000044C822155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > I am shocked to hear of complaints concerning MO-MA. Back in 2002, I sent > all six gauges for restoration and although they looked rather rough initially, > I was and still am pleased with the finished product. The owner, Margaret > Lucas, was a model of professionalism throughout the entire process with notes > concerning completion date, price, etc. I don't know if Margaret is still > involved with the business but if not it is another example of new owners > dragging > down the service and product while retaining the price. Your experience may vary and all that. First, rudeness is not in my nature. I've talked to Margaret several times and like her as all do. Second, all I know is I kept getting pushed to the back of the line so they could take care of their long-time business associates with Pebble Beach and whatnot. That's what they told me and I believe them. Sorry, but I don't accept being deemed less important for any reason. Not when I'm paying over $700 for the privilege. ...And when the gauges came back, the needles were yellow and bent like when I sent them and the fule gauge stopped working shortly after. All that said, I have to say that in three years restoring the TR3A, I have nothing but positive (actually, giddy) things to say about TRF, Moss, British Frame and Engine, and Victoria British. And as for Randall and this List, the terms Zeus and Olympians come to mind, ...but that would probably seem hyperbolic? :o) Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Sep 22 19:33:40 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:33:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuel pressure needed? Message-ID: <003601c91d1c$695d45e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Pumping the gas pedal without the engine running does not squirt gas into the intake manifold. Am I right about this? The SU's need the engine running (resulting in fuel pressure) Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 935 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Sep 22 19:38:23 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:38:23 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: In a message dated 9/22/08 6:03:43 PM, terryrs at comcast.net writes: > All that said, I have to say that in three years restoring the TR3A, I have > nothing but positive (actually, giddy) things to say about TRF, Moss, > British Frame and Engine, and Victoria British. > > Terry, I don't know why it is, but there are places which I think are AWFUL and have had nothing but bad experiences, yet others say they are great. I think it must be luck! Best, Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Sep 22 19:41:16 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:41:16 EDT Subject: [TR] fuel pressure needed? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/22/08 6:34:04 PM, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: > Pumping the gas pedal without the engine running does not squirt gas into > the > intake manifold. Am I right about this? The SU's need the engine running > (resulting in fuel pressure) > > Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > Nooooo! Fuel pressure comes from the fuel pump. Many domestic carbs (if not all) also have an accelerator pump which squirts gasoline into the throat of the car. That's the pump the SU does not have. Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Sep 22 19:40:51 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:40:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] fuel pressure needed? In-Reply-To: <003601c91d1c$695d45e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003601c91d1c$695d45e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080923014053.DDA8518787E@autox.team.net> Correct, the SU's have no accelerator pump. The Dashpots are supposed to give an accelerator pump type of effect by slowing the rise of the pistons upon acceleration causing a momentary rich condition. It all requires airflow. Sticking your hands over the air intake on the SU while cranking the motor will pull extra fuel into the engine, though. - Tony Drews At 08:33 PM 9/22/2008, dorpaul wrote: >Pumping the gas pedal without the engine running does not squirt gas into the >intake manifold. Am I right about this? The SU's need the engine running >(resulting in fuel pressure) > >Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From DLylis at aol.com Mon Sep 22 19:47:52 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:47:52 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: Many years ago my (ex) father in law restored a 1930 Model A Ford coupe. I watched in awe as he completed this project over about four years. I cannot imagine doing a project like that without the aid of the Internet, and yet many, many cars have been done just that way. Just think about needing to ask a lister a question and writing a letter or (OMG!) calling them up. Just think about how you would learn who they are in the first place!! Who do we have to thank for all this. As I recall it was Al Gore, right? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Sep 22 19:55:31 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:55:31 EDT Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: In a message dated 9/22/2008 7:32:10 PM Central Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: > Alas, as research indicates, airflow affects fertility. Perhaps a > conversation we should avoid? > Depends on what your goal is. I figure I'm doing the world a favor by not breeding. Dave (briefs) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Sep 22 20:08:29 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 22:08:29 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: Vice President Gore never claimed to have invented the internet. See snopes http://www.snopes.com/quotes/internet.asp Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Sep 22 20:19:21 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 22:19:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] 3's inner tach cable References: <000601c91c4d$2cbb6d30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <016401c91c50$5bcd9190$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: <003a01c91d22$cad1f220$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Unfortunatly, MY FLAPS had never heard of cable lube. They said, "spray it with WD-40", but, I might have some Lubriplate. Doesn't sound like the inner cable necessarily needs lubrication...right? Thanks, Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: "Ed Oot" ; "dorpaul" ; "list Triumph" Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 9:47 AM Subject: RE: [TR] 3's inner tach cable Stop by your local parts store and buy some cable lube. It is a graphite based product that comes in a small tube and has a liquid consistency. When I lube a cable I pull the cable back into the housing far enough to allow a 25G syringe needle in to the housing. I draw the lube up into the syringe and inject 1/2 - 1 Ml. into the housing. Works like a charm. Best regards,Tom - _________________________________________________________________ Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008= From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Sep 22 20:29:16 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 02:29:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets Message-ID: <092320080229.26902.48D8547C0008474A000069162200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Allan Reich > Greetings ... > Still having problems with my TR3 and blowing head gaskets (and other stuff) > Talking to a respected british car mechanic today, discussing my > problems and told him my cylinder compression readings were 170 to 175, > and he suggested that was pretty high and could be a problem. > So the thought came to me that maybe one of the Moss Steel Shim head > gaskets could be an answer. I understand they were originally used to > lower the compression ratio in countries with lower octane gas. > Have any listers had experience with this?? Would you use a regular > gasket as well? If both, which would go on the block first? The steel shim gaskets are typically used on race engines to increase compression. They are a huge PITA to install, because to get them to seal properly, you have to SuperGlue .0015 copper wire onto the gasket to mate up with the top of each liner. Then, when you torque the head, the copper wire crushes and effectively that is your seal. I had one for a while on my vintage race TR4, but found it was way easier to go back to the stock head gasket. I lost a bit of power, but I never had one fail at the track. My cylinder compressions were about 200-210 per cylinder. HTH, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 22 20:32:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:32:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080923023248.OSNW23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Vice President Gore never claimed to have invented the internet. While this is certainly the wrong place to discuss it; the exact words he said were : "During my service in the United States Congress, I took the initiative in creating the Internet." Even in politician-speak, that didn't exactly give credit to anyone else! Randall From darrellw at ipns.com Mon Sep 22 20:33:03 2008 From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:33:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets In-Reply-To: <092320080229.26902.48D8547C0008474A000069162200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> References: <092320080229.26902.48D8547C0008474A000069162200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <07FAF30A-405D-469D-971E-DAE7B2121AC2@ipns.com> You could look into the solid copper gasket from Gasket Works: http://www.headgasket.com/gaskets.html -Darrell -- Darrell Walker 66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L Vancouver, WA, USA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 22 20:49:51 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 19:49:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets In-Reply-To: <48D837BD.2070609@telus.net> Message-ID: <20080923024951.NBJQ19005.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Still having problems with my TR3 and blowing head gaskets How's your liner protrusion ? Preferably checked in 4 different places for each liner. On my TR3 motor that ate head gaskets, the liner tops proved to not be parallel to the top of the block. So the protrusion checked fine on the side I always checked, even though it was nearly non-existent on the other side. Can you spin a new nut easily all the way down the head stud threads (all 10 of them) ? Had the calibration of your torque wrench checked ? Using proper (hardened) flat washers between head nuts and head ? Both head and block deck flat ? > and he suggested that was pretty high and could be a problem. Once again, the reading on the gauge means relatively little, except when compared to other readings taken with the same gauge. But I've built engines that produced between 190 and 200 psi, and didn't blow a stock gasket. > So the thought came to me that maybe one of the Moss Steel > Shim head gaskets could be an answer. I understand they were > originally used to lower the compression ratio in countries > with lower octane gas. They were found in the compression lowering kit, but it also included a spacer and a regular head gasket. Used alone, they actually raise compression ratio. If you do want to lower the compression ratio (which will reduce maximum power, maximum torque, and fuel mileage); a better way IMO is to modify the combustion chambers per Kas Kastner's Competition Preparation guide. Randall From cak at dimebank.com Mon Sep 22 21:11:12 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:11:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: <200809230311.m8N3BCKh001129@moose.dimebank.com> > I don't know why it is, but there are places which I think are AWFUL and have > had nothing but bad experiences, yet others say they are great. I think it > must be luck! This is (part of) why the Monster List exists (www.dimebank.com/monster) to collect such experiences and let prospective customers get a sense of what to expect. From wbeech at flash.net Mon Sep 22 22:56:25 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 22:56:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] 3's inner tach cable In-Reply-To: <003a01c91d22$cad1f220$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000601c91c4d$2cbb6d30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><016401c91c50$5bcd9190$640a0a0a@WANDERER> <003a01c91d22$cad1f220$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <7D30608D2E0B4AF6AEBDA25DE6524119@sniffer> Try Ace Hardware, here is the link to their web site. http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/ags-kableease-cable-lubricant-p-70731.h tml?ref=42 Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:19 PM To: tom white; Ed Oot; list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] 3's inner tach cable Unfortunatly, MY FLAPS had never heard of cable lube. They said, "spray it with WD-40", but, I might have some Lubriplate. Doesn't sound like the inner cable necessarily needs lubrication...right? Thanks, Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: "Ed Oot" ; "dorpaul" ; "list Triumph" Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 9:47 AM Subject: RE: [TR] 3's inner tach cable Stop by your local parts store and buy some cable lube. It is a graphite based product that comes in a small tube and has a liquid consistency. When I lube a cable I pull the cable back into the housing far enough to allow a 25G syringe needle in to the housing. I draw the lube up into the syringe and inject 1/2 - 1 Ml. into the housing. Works like a charm. Best regards,Tom - _________________________________________________________________ Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!55 0F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008= This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1685 - Release Date: 9/22/2008 4:08 PM From wbeech at flash.net Mon Sep 22 22:56:25 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 22:56:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] fuel pressure needed? In-Reply-To: <003601c91d1c$695d45e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003601c91d1c$695d45e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <4D8A60E3120F4996A0237CDF42416402@sniffer> Correct, there is no pump in the car, you are just opening the butterfly when you depress the pedal. Pull the choke and crank the engine. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 7:34 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] fuel pressure needed? Pumping the gas pedal without the engine running does not squirt gas into the intake manifold. Am I right about this? The SU's need the engine running (resulting in fuel pressure) Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 935 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1685 - Release Date: 9/22/2008 4:08 PM From ibs at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 22 23:47:08 2008 From: ibs at sbcglobal.net (Ray Tedder) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 22:47:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Bulkhead Fiberboard panel Message-ID: <16249.21092.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> When I dis-assembled my TR6 I recalled that there was a fiberboard between the bulkheads and the upholstery. I of course didn't save that item. If anyone has a pattern for the fiberboard or the item please contact me. Ray Tedder ibs at sbcglobal.net From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue Sep 23 03:47:29 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 05:47:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets Message-ID: <2B2D0FFF-BD6D-4CBC-8462-1E2B56BD9E2D@comcast.net> I don't think cylinder pressures of 175 lbs are the cause of your problem. One can run higher pressures successfully. In what condition are the two mating faces of the head and block? My '63 TR4's head was scored from having been cut to increase compression, years ago. My block's mating face was showing its age, but not too bad when cleaned up. While I was having new valves cut at a local machine shop recently, I asked them to clean up the face of the head. It came back looking like a new piece of steel having had a thou or two shaved off. This greatly improved the odds of success in sealing the block to the head with a copper 'sandwich-type' gasket. (I think I got my gasket from Moss.) I believe the 'sandwich' gasket is more compressible than a solid copper gasket, and therefore more forgiving. I'd previously used Wellseal on the scored head. With this fresh face, I coated the gasket with the Permatex copper spray: http://permatex.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/42287/80697 I found it helpful to prepare the gasket ahead of time. I gave it several coats. I was more certain of good, even coverage, compared to spreading Wellseal around with a putty knife. Among several advantages, the copper spray improves heat transfer from head to block, which may in turn improve the chances of a durable seal. Good luck, Brian From team.net at daveola.com Tue Sep 23 03:40:22 2008 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 02:40:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets In-Reply-To: <092320080229.26902.48D8547C0008474A000069162200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> References: <48D837BD.2070609@telus.net> <092320080229.26902.48D8547C0008474A000069162200734748970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: Allan Reich says: > So the thought came to me that maybe one of the Moss Steel Shim head > gaskets could be an answer. Irv Korey replies: > The steel shim gaskets are typically used on race engines to > increase compression. ..you have to SuperGlue .0015 copper wire.. I think you're talking about two different things. There are also shim head gaskets that are thicker than normal head gaskets and can be used as a head gasket replacement or stacked with a head gasket, though I think the head needs to be torqued down more if you're doing that. Moss mentions part 694-505: "..as part of the compression lowering kit.." I had a similar problem on my TR3A because the head had been milled down too many times by a previous owner (who had, interestingly, complained about overheating problems). I had to replace a number of head gaskets in order to combat this. I have a shim somewhere that I only briefly used, and as Murphy's law would expect, right after buying that shim I managed to finally find a replacement TR3A head from a junkyard. I would recommend finding a new head that is of the correct thickness and avoid dealing with the gaskets if at all possible. After pulling the head a number of times it gets a little tiring. :) And if you're looking for a faster way to pull the head than the Haynes manual, check out "Faster Head Removal" under: http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Head-Gasket/ (But only if you think the head has come off in the last decade, or if you have a lift, otherwise the standard route might be easier). Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Sep 23 04:01:26 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 06:01:26 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: > Vice President Gore never claimed to have invented the internet. > > While this is certainly the wrong place to discuss it; the exact words he > said were : > > "During my service in the United States Congress, I took the initiative in > creating the Internet." > > Even in politician-speak, that didn't exactly give credit to anyone else! > > Randall > > You can read the entire story on snopes. http://www.snopes.com/quotes/internet. Sen Gore VHe was resposible for creating the legislation allowing the internet in the same way Ike invented the Interstate Freeway System. Mike Moore ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From DLylis at aol.com Tue Sep 23 04:45:20 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 06:45:20 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges Message-ID: So to bring this full circle back to TR. Whoever did, I am thankful as it has made this job with the TR6 and TR3A so much easier. Thanks to all on the list. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue Sep 23 04:58:45 2008 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 12:58:45 +0200 Subject: [TR] fuel pressure needed? References: <003601c91d1c$695d45e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <20080923014053.DDA8518787E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <01b601c91d6b$59c049d0$0500a8c0@Study> "Sticking your hands over the air intake on the SU while cranking the motor will pull extra fuel into the engine, though." Or some people use the choke to save all that lifting the bonnet ect. David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 13744 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 23 05:03:50 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 04:03:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] fuel pump In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <855106.74396.qm@web82803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> hi, all. i'm renovating a failed fuel pump. i see the kit has a pair of valves, and i see that they are placed in the "top" of the fuel pump "base." i see that they are in opposite ways, which makes sense. should i replace them while i'm there? how do i get them out? how about putting the replacements in? and where does that little round gasket that comes in the kit go? thanks! i'm trying to document all this so i can post a fuel pump renovation page. From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 23 05:54:55 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 07:54:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuel pressure needed? Message-ID: <0F73A41F.05829854.36296DCF@cs.com> "David Brister" wrote: > "Sticking your hands over the >air intake on the SU while cranking the motor will pull extra fuel >into the engine, though." > >Or some people use the choke to save all that lifting the bonnet ect. > >David Brister >1967 TR4A Yes, but to really, truly flood out the engine you need to use the hand over the intake technique. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 23 06:07:37 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 08:07:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuel pump Message-ID: <56069458.78721699.36296DCF@cs.com> oliver wrote: >hi, all. > >i'm renovating a failed fuel pump. i see the kit has a pair of valves, and i >see that they are placed in the "top" of the fuel pump "base." i see that >they are in opposite ways, which makes sense. > >should i replace them while i'm there? how do i get them out? how about >putting the replacements in? and where does that little round gasket that >comes in the kit go? > >thanks! i'm trying to document all this so i can post a fuel pump renovation >page. You didn't say what car. The pump on the TR3 has a handy little retaining plate held in place with a screw. This plate secures the valves. Removing the plate allows the valves to be removed and replaced. But if you have a TR6 the valves are "staked" into place. This means the valves are inserted into the bore in the pump base and then the material at the edge of the bore is deformed to close up the opening just enough to retain the valves. If look closely you should be able to see where the installer used a punch to secure the valves. To change out these valves you need to file or grind the deformed material enough to allow the valves to be extracted and replaced after which you can "stake" them in with a hammer and a punch. Dave From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 23 06:21:00 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 05:21:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <896968.13657.qm@web54108.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I remember when that question was first asked in public and wondered how many women would like to be asked "granny panties or thong?" Anyway, I decided the best answer to that question was "commando", no matter what the truth was. Raymond --- On Mon, 9/22/08, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Subject: Re: [TR] collective wisdom ? > To: terryrs at comcast.net, ahwahnee18 at gmail.com, triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, September 22, 2008, 8:55 PM > In a message dated 9/22/2008 7:32:10 PM Central Daylight > Time, > terryrs at comcast.net writes: > > Alas, as research indicates, airflow affects > fertility. Perhaps a > > conversation we should avoid? > > > Depends on what your goal is. I figure I'm doing the > world a favor by not > breeding. > > Dave (briefs) From scott at sabutler.com Tue Sep 23 06:58:17 2008 From: scott at sabutler.com (Scott A. Butler) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 08:58:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Needle Sticks Message-ID: <9C4C1EA704994E28BFDC414B15C37DDF@OVOSABD620> My speedo needle sticks, either slow to register speeds lower than 25 when accelerating or not returning to 0 when slowing. Any tips on fixing this myself? The housing on the back of the speedo looks like it is spotwelded in place and I have been reluctant to loosen the two slotted screws on the back. In Digest 2:473 someone mentioned Margaret and it sound like she fixes gauges. If Margaret works on speedos, how can I get in touch with her? (PS - I am reposting this because I didn't see it hit the digest. Sorry if you get multiples.) With best regards, Scott Butler c. 330-348-1619 Chagrin Falls, OH 1976 TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Sep 23 07:30:41 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 09:30:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Bulkhead Fiberboard panel In-Reply-To: <16249.21092.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <16249.21092.qm@web83305.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ray, I don't recall there being any fiberboard on my car. Maybe it's something the previous owner added as a heat shield? There is fiberboard of sorts in the door panels and the rear panel. Can you be more specific as to where it was installed. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ray Tedder Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 1:47 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR6 Bulkhead Fiberboard panel When I dis-assembled my TR6 I recalled that there was a fiberboard between the bulkheads and the upholstery. I of course didn't save that item. If anyone has a pattern for the fiberboard or the item please contact me. Ray Tedder ibs at sbcglobal.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1685 - Release Date: 9/22/2008 4:08 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 23 08:47:27 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 07:47:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080923144727.VDFR19005.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I think you're talking about two different things. Nope, they are the same thing. > There are > also shim head gaskets that are thicker than normal head > gaskets Not in steel. Steel that thick would not deform and act as a gasket. And lots of folks seem to have a hard time getting the solid copper gaskets to seal. > though I think the head needs to > be torqued down more if you're doing that. Nope, at least not with original studs. Overtorquing is counterproductive; it results in permanently distorting the studs and an overall reduction in clamping force. > Moss mentions part 694-505: "..as part of the compression > lowering kit.." Which also includes a flat steel spacer, to be used between a regular gasket and the "shim steel" gasket. It's the entire stack that lowers the compression, not just one component of it. FWIW, on my engine with the inadequate liner protrusion, I found that adding the 20 AWG "half hard" copper wire to a stock head gasket was easy and very effective. Superglue didn't occur to me, so I used ordinary 'electronic' grade solder and a soldering gun. Took perhaps 1/2 hour sitting at the table to add wires around each cylinder, in the groove formed where the two original sheets of copper are crimped together. Didn't solder the entire length, just tacked it in place at several points around the cylinder opening. Ends of the wire were overlapped slightly and sealed with solder. The result worked great, both with the head milled too far to run on pump gas and with a later standard head. I even reused the same gasket! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 23 08:55:22 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 07:55:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] fuel pump In-Reply-To: <56069458.78721699.36296DCF@cs.com> Message-ID: <20080923145522.JYIV6291.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > But if you have a TR6 the valves are "staked" into place. Some of the replacement TR3 pumps also have the valves staked into place. Personally, if the staked valves seem to work (can blow through them one way, not the other way), I leave them alone. Too many stories of re-staked ones falling out. Some have even gone as far as fabricating a retaining plate similar to the earlier pumps, to hold the valves in place. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 23 09:00:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 08:00:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Speedo Needle Sticks In-Reply-To: <9C4C1EA704994E28BFDC414B15C37DDF@OVOSABD620> Message-ID: <20080923150011.KCCX6291.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Check your spam filter, Scott. My direct replies keep getting bounced. Randall From jgillis at tcd.ie Tue Sep 23 09:16:10 2008 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 16:16:10 +0100 Subject: [TR] Carb woes Message-ID: <1222182970.48d9083aabdef@mymail.tcd.ie> As suggested fitted a new plug on my now running TR2 engine, no more splutter and running well (thanks Randall). But in true TR form the front carb is now spilling fuel out the overflow pipe on tick-over, when I bring the revs up it stops, and when back at idle it starts to leak again, Im guessing a stuck float valve or punctures float. I had these carbs re-built by Burlen at great cost, and they also tend to leak at the cork seals where the float bowl joins the carb. I have the later rubber version fitted to the TR3s and as suggested in the Moss catalogue I was thinking of fitting these at the same time as sorting out the valve/float problem. Can anyone tell me what tell-tale signs Im looking for here? Cheers John 1954 TR2 long door John Gillis Senior Conservator From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Sep 23 09:40:18 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 15:40:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] collective wisdom ? Message-ID: <092320081540.5021.48D90DE200051B1E0000139D22007347480B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Thank you to all who responded, individually or as part of a "reply all". The take away messages appear to be: - no system compensates for a worn distributor mechanism - have a back-up in case of failure - some on this page appear to have problems with "aging equipment". Andrew From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Sep 23 13:02:36 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 15:02:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carb woes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: John, Remover the lid to the float bowl and check if the float for leaks: remove it and shake it to see if you can hear anything inside. I believe you may be able repair a leak with solder, if you can find it, or replace it with new. If I heard fuel inside a float I would submerge it in fuel and squeeze to it find bubbles of air to locate the hole. Warm the float gently (for example, by a light bulb, in a safe place for a while) to evaporate fuel, then solder to seal. Check the setting for the fuel valve actuator: turn the lid upside down, and with an appropriate diameter dowel or drill bit, adjust the fork that controls the valve to the diameter of the dowel, when the valve just closes. See adjusting the fuel level in this link below (instructions from SU tool kit). The level of the fuel is critical to the reliable operation of the carburettor. Its a fiddly task that is easier to imagine than do, I found. http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/SU%20Carburetor%20Tool.pdf Check the valve operates as it should, replace as required. I would go ahead and install your rubber seals at the banjo joint at the bottom of the carbs. If you have the right parts assembled in the right order, it should seal OK. Brian From ggelhar at earthlink.net Mon Sep 22 16:29:47 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 17:29:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] fuel pump Message-ID: <380-220089122222947640@earthlink.net> Oliver, A while back I put my account of the rebuild process on Photo Bucket. Look here to see if you can use the information. http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa68/gmark_01/Fuel%20Pump/?action=view&cu rrent=e9be68b7.pbw Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . > i'm renovating a failed fuel pump. i see the kit has a pair of valves, and i > see that they are placed in the "top" of the fuel pump "base." i see that > they are in opposite ways, which makes sense. > > should i replace them while i'm there? how do i get them out? how about > putting the replacements in? and where does that little round gasket that > comes in the kit go? From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Sep 23 18:09:35 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 19:09:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets In-Reply-To: <20080923144727.VDFR19005.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall > References: <20080923144727.VDFR19005.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20080924000939.094DC187676@autox.team.net> I've seen over 225 psi on my race TR-4 motor. Seems I had close to 250 on at least one cylinder. Head gaskets aren't a problem for me (since I quit using the shim and copper ones, anyway), although I go maybe 1000 (very hard) miles between rebuilds. Liner protrusion is key. You need a few thou (say 2 to 4 thou), but not too much. You can adjust this to a point by making custom figure 8 gaskets out of proper thickness shim stock. Can be carefully done with scissors. They should be reasonably flat, although I have a thou or two difference between the lifter side of the block and the opposite side. The stock (Payen AE-330) composite gasket handles this fine. I highly recommend Payen over the slightly cheaper stuff available. ALL LINERS SHOULD HAVE VERY SIMILAR PROTRUSION - any differences will quickly cause head gasket leaks. You can get ARP head studs and increase the torque a bit too, but that's probably overkill for a street car. I presume you're doing the water in the oil thing instead of the "blowing all of the water out of the radiator" deal (caused by combustion gases in the water passages). Water in the oil can also be caused by fig 8 gaskets. I've seen that caused by poor cleaning of sealing surfaces, or by uneven surfaces on the sealing surfaces. Combustion gases in the water is generally caused by no liner protrusion, or differences in liner protrusion, or a cracked head, or even a cracked liner. I don't recommend an additional gasket - you've just doubled the number of surfaces that can leak. By the way, I coat the block / liners / head / head gasket (and fig 8 gasket) with Gaskacinch - seems to help things seal without being overbearing. Be careful on the fig 8 deal - I got a little on the surface between the liner "foot" (the protrusion below the fig 8 gasket) and the block and then couldn't assemble (and had a heck of a time disassembling). If you are totally sure that the fig 8 surfaces are good, the fig 8 gasket has no burrs, but you have a liner that sticks up a few thou more than the others, it is possible to shorten it using a plate of glass with a sheet of sandpaper / fine emery cloth taped to it. Carefully run the top surface across it in a figure 8 pattern - check length frequently as going to far ruins the liner. You have to be VERY meticulous in this to not get the top of the liner slanted too. Takes less time that you'd think. BE ABSOLUTELY SURE this is necessary before doing. Usually there's a piece of grit on a figure 8 sealing surface instead of a liner that's too long. One other thing - there's a slight chance that too much advance causing ping would cause head gasket problems. - Tony Drews From barrie at look.ca Tue Sep 23 18:09:23 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:09:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauges In-Reply-To: <200809230311.m8N3BCKh001129@moose.dimebank.com> References: <200809230311.m8N3BCKh001129@moose.dimebank.com> Message-ID: If anyone is restoring gauges then go to www.britcot.com. At 11:11 PM 9/22/2008, Chris Kantarjiev wrote: > > I don't know why it is, but there are places which I think are > AWFUL and have > > had nothing but bad experiences, yet others say they are great. I think it > > must be luck! > >This is (part of) why the Monster List exists (www.dimebank.com/monster) >to collect such experiences and let prospective customers get a >sense of what to expect. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Sep 23 18:55:23 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 17:55:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] figure 8 gaskets Message-ID: <926612.83480.qm@web59601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm not into re-building my tr-3 engine yet but have some questions concerning liner protrusion, blowing head gaskets ect. Several members have mentioned that the protrusion is higher on one side of the block than the other. How do you handle this? You can't add 1/2 of a figure of 8 gasket to one side to (in effect) tilt the liner making the protrusion equal on top. so do you then just add gaskets to get a happy medium? thanks gary n. From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Tue Sep 23 19:01:24 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 18:01:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 6 running ok...........some problems off idle Message-ID: <859177.4726.qm@web59603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> the tr-6 is now running pretty good except for a slight problem at and off idle. The idle adjustment screw is catching on the pad it strikes on. When the throttle is open this pad falls below the end of the screw as is natural. when slowing down the pad moves up and instead of hitting on the bottom of the screw it catches on the side of the screw which doesn't allow it to idle. I've adjusted the screw by backing off but then the idle is so slow the car hardly runs. Some help was found by adjusting the timing some. Also I still need to adjust fuel mixture. That might also help. I have a color tune set which I've never used. It seems like a great system but wonder if the hype is true? Anyone with experience? thanks gary n. From DLylis at aol.com Tue Sep 23 20:04:25 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 22:04:25 EDT Subject: [TR] figure 8 gaskets Message-ID: Gary, I am not the expert here but have rebuilt my 3 motor and did not encounter such a thing, but I would imagine that the degree to which you have this is part of the equation, whether or not you use steel or copper Fo8s, and if it is too severe then you would want to check the sleeves to see that the problem is not there or machine the block back to flat. As I recall the tolerances for "proudness" is .003 - .005" so we are not talking about much variation. I used copper Fo8s because when I assembled with steel I found that the results were marginal when the sleeves were clamped in place. The coppers were about .001" thicker and gave me the results I wanted. David David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Sep 23 20:29:07 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 21:29:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] figure 8 gaskets In-Reply-To: <926612.83480.qm@web59601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <926612.83480.qm@web59601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080924022911.10E6D18763E@autox.team.net> There's no "fix" that I'm aware of for the "beveled top" liners. The sandwich gasket will accept a small amount of this, as long as the liner protrudes the whole way around it. The usual fix is to get another block. That's getting harder and harder to do over time. Machining block or liner is fraught with peril and usually a waste of money. May be good until the next rebuild, then nothing seems to fit right. As long as all of the liners are doing the same thing (as far as protrusion is concerned), there's some but not too much protrusion all the way around the liner, a thou to maybe 3 thou difference side to side can be tolerated. Mine are 1 to 2 thou difference from passenger side to drivers side of the block. The problem is in the block, not the liners. I have equal protrusion on all 4 liners. Seals just fine. - Tony D At 07:55 PM 9/23/2008, Gary Nafziger wrote: >I'm not into re-building my tr-3 engine yet but have some questions concerning >liner protrusion, blowing head gaskets ect. Several members have mentioned >that the protrusion is higher on one side of the block than the other. How do >you handle this? You can't add 1/2 of a figure of 8 gasket to one side to (in >effect) tilt the liner making the protrusion equal on top. so do you then >just add gaskets to get a happy medium? > >thanks >gary n. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Sep 23 22:10:36 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 00:10:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? Message-ID: <001101c91dfb$7fa7ccf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I stated my car today for the first time in several years. The engine has been rebuilt by professionals. Doug Mathews and myself installed it. I knew it would work cause I had ran it several years ago (since the rebuild), however, the car had not been wired at that time. Now the wiring is nearly complete, and, the engine runs too! I'm on a winning streak!! The oil pressure stayed at about 50 at the beginning, but after about 10 minutes of running it started to move to around 40. I don't remember what is preferred for a newly run-in engine. I had added about 2 quarts of some kind of oil additive because a flaps salesman gave me a 'good pitch' about it's benifits. It was proably synthetic. I'm so gulable! I decided not to go ahead at this time and buy a battery just yet, as I have 3-4 months worth of work before the car is roadworthy. I put my truck's battery in the Tr3 to start it. If I had known how the starter solenoid is properly wired to the key switch, I would have cranked it with a key. I think my switch is bad. Instead, I did it the way I've been warned about: by manually 'jumping-out' the 2 big lugs on the starter solenoid. It's not a stock solenoid. Tomorrow I'll try to make it so that it will start from the console. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 937 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 23 23:26:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 22:26:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] figure 8 gaskets In-Reply-To: <926612.83480.qm@web59601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080924052630.WDFS979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Several members have mentioned that the protrusion is > higher on one side of the block than the other. How do you > handle this? Normally, they will both be within tolerance, so just assemble and don't worry about it. The stock head gasket deforms a long way as you torque down the head nuts (which is part of the reason they must be tightened in stages) and so can make up for some difference. > You can't add 1/2 of a figure of 8 gasket to > one side to (in > effect) tilt the liner Not enough room in the block to tilt it that far, anyway. They are a very snug fit at the bottom, and fairly snug at the top. I've not tried having the block machined to correct the condition. Don't see why it wouldn't work, but if Tony says it doesn't, it probably doesn't. I've got some extra blocks, just in case Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 23 23:30:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 22:30:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Could a steel shim head gasket be the answer to blowing head gaskets In-Reply-To: <20080924000939.094DC187676@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <20080924053054.RQYR23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > You can adjust this to a > point by making custom figure 8 gaskets out of proper > thickness shim stock. FWIW, Mordy Dunst can laser-cut custom Fig 8 gaskets in a variety of thicknesses. Don't recall the price, but it wasn't much. http://www.headgasket.com/ Randall From don at napanet.net Tue Sep 23 23:36:03 2008 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 21:36:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? In-Reply-To: <001101c91dfb$7fa7ccf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001101c91dfb$7fa7ccf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20080923213307.03350e70@pop.napanet.net> Oil pressure at idle or at higher RPM? There's going to be a big difference! On MGAs and MGBs the idle oil pressure would be about 20 psi and at driving speed about 60 psi. Also, the type of oil filter and the weight of oil. I don't have any experience with TRs (other than a TR8), just MGs and Sprites and other BMC cars. I do know that there was a felt oil filter that would give me about 10 lb. more oil pressure than the cardboard filter on my MGA. And Castrol 20-50 would not have as much reduction in oil pressure once the engine was hot, where other brands would show significantly lower oil pressure. Don Scott 1962 MGA 1973 MGB GT (for sale) 1991 Miata BRG At 08:10 PM 09/23/2008, dorpaul wrote: >I stated my car today for the first time in several years. The engine has >been rebuilt by professionals. Doug Mathews and myself installed it. I knew >it would work cause I had ran it several years ago (since the rebuild), >however, the car had not been wired at that time. Now the wiring is nearly >complete, and, the engine runs too! I'm on a winning streak!! > >The oil pressure stayed at about 50 at the beginning, but after about 10 >minutes of running it started to move to around 40. I don't remember what is >preferred for a newly run-in engine. I had added about 2 quarts of some kind >of oil additive because a flaps salesman gave me a 'good pitch' about it's >benifits. It was proably synthetic. I'm so gulable! > >I decided not to go ahead at this time and buy a battery just yet, as I have >3-4 months worth of work before the car is roadworthy. I put my truck's >battery in the Tr3 to start it. If I had known how the starter solenoid is >properly wired to the key switch, I would have cranked it with a key. I think >my switch is bad. Instead, I did it the way I've been warned about: by >manually 'jumping-out' the 2 big lugs on the starter solenoid. It's not a >stock solenoid. Tomorrow I'll try to make it so that it will start from the >console. >Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A > >-- >I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. >SPAMfighter has removed 937 spam emails to date. >Paying users do not have this message in their emails. >Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as don at napanet.net > >http://www.team.net/archive > > > > >-- >No virus found in this incoming message. >Checked by AVG. >Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1683 - Release Date: 09/21/2008 >10:10 AM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1683 - Release Date: 09/21/2008 10:10 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 24 00:31:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 23:31:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carb woes In-Reply-To: <1222182970.48d9083aabdef@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <20080924063137.ETHP6291.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> John, I would try cleaning the float valve first. If that solves the problem even temporarily, there was likely a bit of crud caught in the valve, which may mean you need new soft fuel lines. If you replaced the fuel pump with a new one, it might also be worth checking the fuel pressure. Some repro pumps apparently put out too much pressure, and can overpower the floats. Randall From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Wed Sep 24 05:21:04 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 07:21:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? References: <001101c91dfb$7fa7ccf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <006c01c91e37$a2a95250$0300a8c0@Desktop> How many YEARS did it take you to wirer the car ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 12:10 AM Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? >I stated my car today for the first time in several years. The engine has > been rebuilt by professionals. Doug Mathews and myself installed it. I > knew > it would work cause I had ran it several years ago (since the rebuild), > however, the car had not been wired at that time. Now the wiring is > nearly > complete, and, the engine runs too! I'm on a winning streak!! > > The oil pressure stayed at about 50 at the beginning, but after about 10 > minutes of running it started to move to around 40. I don't remember what > is > preferred for a newly run-in engine. I had added about 2 quarts of some > kind > of oil additive because a flaps salesman gave me a 'good pitch' about it's > benifits. It was proably synthetic. I'm so gulable! > > I decided not to go ahead at this time and buy a battery just yet, as I > have > 3-4 months worth of work before the car is roadworthy. I put my truck's > battery in the Tr3 to start it. If I had known how the starter solenoid > is > properly wired to the key switch, I would have cranked it with a key. I > think > my switch is bad. Instead, I did it the way I've been warned about: by > manually 'jumping-out' the 2 big lugs on the starter solenoid. It's not a > stock solenoid. Tomorrow I'll try to make it so that it will start from > the > console. > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. > SPAMfighter has removed 937 spam emails to date. > Paying users do not have this message in their emails. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Sep 24 05:54:19 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 07:54:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: So the TR3 lives Paul! Well done. Its been a long haul that I and perhaps many on the list have lived vicariously. I look forward to the time when you will no longer be able to report: "I've never driven a TR". Cheers, Brian From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Sep 24 06:22:59 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 08:22:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? References: Message-ID: <003c01c91e40$493bb600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Thanks to all those who encourage me in my venture. Surely you do no harm in putting in the wrong brand of oil (synthetic vr. non-synt., although the weight is correct) and running it for only 500 miles... right or wrong? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 7:54 AM Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? So the TR3 lives Paul! Well done. Its been a long haul that I and perhaps many on the list have lived vicariously. I look forward to the time when you will no longer be able to report: "I've never driven a TR". Cheers, Brian -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 937 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From lisa at josephvincelli.com Wed Sep 24 07:13:33 2008 From: lisa at josephvincelli.com (Lisa Richardson) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 08:13:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <5DB387E23E5D437AA6DBFE061487D3F5@LisaRichardsPC> List, I have a 75 TR6 and it has needed a manifold gasket for years. The engine ticks. First, what other gaskets should I be replacing? and what if any damage is being done or performance is being lost by not replacing, considering that the carbs, manifold, etc. have to come off to replace, it can't be a small job or cheap since I don't do this myself. The car has aprox. 145K miles on it and since putting a couple of cans of Seafoam in it, I can't get my husband out of it. It has become a daily driver and it is running like a new car. Hate to mess with what ain't broke. I have never overhauled the engine or carbs. Thanks for help, Lisa Vincelli From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Sep 24 07:19:33 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 09:19:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil pressure, felt filter? Message-ID: <004d01c91e48$2f9e6c80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Shown below is a message I got from an MG'er, do TR3's have this kind of oil filter? Paul > Oil pressure at idle or at higher RPM? There's going to be a big > difference! On MGAs and MGBs the idle oil pressure would be about 20 psi > and at driving speed about 60 psi. > Also, the type of oil filter and the weight of oil. I don't have any > experience with TRs (other than a TR8), just MGs and Sprites and other BMC > cars. I do know that there was a felt oil filter that would give me about > 10 lb. more oil pressure than the cardboard filter on my MGA. And Castrol > 20-50 would not have as much reduction in oil pressure once the engine was > hot, where other brands would show significantly lower oil pressure. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 937 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Sep 24 07:25:29 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 08:25:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] figure 8 gaskets In-Reply-To: <20080924052630.WDFS979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <926612.83480.qm@web59601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <20080924052630.WDFS979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20080924132534.9A0C4187649@autox.team.net> The issue with trying to machine the block is that in order to true the top surface you have to remove too much metal. All you really want is a thousandth or two off of one side of the block, but... Then you need to shorten the liners. Then the pistons are too tall, so you need custom pistons. Then the next poor sap who takes the motor apart can't figure out why none of the new parts fit. :) One other thing to watch out for that I'm not sure we mentioned - the block can crack next to the head studs. It is possible to get this fixed, but typically that's when we start looking for a new block too. - Tony At 12:26 AM 9/24/2008, Randall wrote: >I've not tried having the block machined to correct the condition. Don't >see why it wouldn't work, but if Tony says it doesn't, it probably doesn't. >I've got some extra blocks, just in case > >Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Sep 24 07:47:18 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 08:47:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? References: <001101c91dfb$7fa7ccf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <1AC71B81CD54422498847D23EA1C0543@KARL> 2 quarts of "some kind of oil additive because a flaps salesman gave me a 'good pitch'" might be a problem. 2 quarts of thin additives (like Marvel Mystery Oil or Rislone for example) would make your oil pretty thin. And that's PART of the reason those additives aren't recommended nearly as high a concentration as you've used. How about draining whatever oil mixture you have in there, and trying a refill of quality 20W-50 oil ? Karl > The oil pressure stayed at about 50 at the beginning, but after about 10 > minutes of running it started to move to around 40. I don't remember what > is > preferred for a newly run-in engine. I had added about 2 quarts of some > kind > of oil additive because a flaps salesman gave me a 'good pitch' about it's > benifits. It was proably synthetic. I'm so gulable! From wbeech at flash.net Wed Sep 24 09:45:25 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 09:45:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5DB387E23E5D437AA6DBFE061487D3F5@LisaRichardsPC> References: <5DB387E23E5D437AA6DBFE061487D3F5@LisaRichardsPC> Message-ID: Lisa, I am a TR3 guy and not too familiar with the TR6 but anytime a gasket is leaking it is not a good thing. Some you can live with it, such as the drip or two of oil each time you park your Triumph, but a leaking exhaust gasket will eventually eat up the metal around the header (from personal experience) and your costs will rise from there. You don't say whether it is the exhaust or intake that you are concerned about but while the intake/exhaust system is off you should always replace both, the labor is the same and the parts are just a few bucks. I think you are in Houston, I don't know anyone there, but I am sure the list can provide a shop or two for you to call. You should be able to get a quote on the phone for this work, assuming your diagnosis is correct, from any reputable shop. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lisa Richardson Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 7:14 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] (no subject) List, I have a 75 TR6 and it has needed a manifold gasket for years. The engine ticks. First, what other gaskets should I be replacing? and what if any damage is being done or performance is being lost by not replacing, considering that the carbs, manifold, etc. have to come off to replace, it can't be a small job or cheap since I don't do this myself. The car has aprox. 145K miles on it and since putting a couple of cans of Seafoam in it, I can't get my husband out of it. It has become a daily driver and it is running like a new car. Hate to mess with what ain't broke. I have never overhauled the engine or carbs. Thanks for help, Lisa Vincelli This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.1/1687 - Release Date: 9/24/2008 6:29 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 24 10:41:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 09:41:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] figure 8 gaskets In-Reply-To: <20080924132534.9A0C4187649@autox.team.net> References: <926612.83480.qm@web59601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><20080924052630.WDFS979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <20080924132534.9A0C4187649@autox.team.net> Message-ID: > The issue with trying to machine the block is that in order to true > the top surface you have to remove too much metal. All you really > want is a thousandth or two off of one side of the block, > but... I'm no doubt showing my naivete, but I still don't see why a competent machinist couldn't do that. I've seen it done to heads, and done it myself on a much smaller scale. If necessary, it could even be done by hand. But you're quite right, taking .010" off the block is going to cause all sorts of problems in other places. And since it would appear that my 'defective' block is already somewhat short (pistons kiss the head with a .010" gasket), I probably won't try fixing it. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 24 11:32:02 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 10:32:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] oil pressure, felt filter? In-Reply-To: <004d01c91e48$2f9e6c80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <004d01c91e48$2f9e6c80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <89BB21DB16B24180878C3E3C8A3A8B84@jdnet.deere.com> > Shown below is a message I got from an MG'er, do TR3's have this kind of > oil filter? TR2 and early TR3 did use a felt oil filter (like at least early MGAs did). However, the felt filter can only be used with a "bypass" filter setup, where the filtered oil is returned to the crankcase and the galleries are fed with oil direct from the pump. I don't recall the change point offhand, but the TR3 went to a "full flow" filter setup well before the introduction of the 3A. A felt filter should not be used with the full flow filter head, as it will not pass enough oil to feed the bearings. Doing so might make the oil pressure appear higher (since the gauge measures pressure before the filter), but the actual pressure to the bearings will be lower. Plus the bypass valve will likely open, feeding unfiltered oil to the bearings. The "bypass" filter head can be recognized because it lacks the blank brass plug found on the later heads. Both types are illustrated in the Moss catalog. If you do have the early bypass filter head (very unlikely for you, Paul), my suggestion is to replace the filter head with a full-flow type; rather than searching for felt filters. The later filter head just bolts on. IIRC, the canister is the same, but the center bolt changes. BTW, the spin-on conversions will not fit the early bypass filter heads either. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 24 11:44:22 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 10:44:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <5DB387E23E5D437AA6DBFE061487D3F5@LisaRichardsPC> References: <5DB387E23E5D437AA6DBFE061487D3F5@LisaRichardsPC> Message-ID: > I have a 75 TR6 and it has needed a manifold gasket for years. The engine > ticks. Seems likely to me that the ticking is something besides a failed gasket, then. Leaking intake manifold gaskets hiss rather than tick; and leaking exhaust manifold gaskets generally get worse rather quickly. If it's been the same for years of daily driving, it must be some other problem. > First, what other gaskets should I be replacing? Gaskets don't generally "wear out", so there's no reason to replace them unless you disturb the joint for some other reason. I'm not intimately familiar with a 75 TR6, but I would guess that you would only need to disturb the head pipe gasket and possibly some hoses (which I would also replace) in order to replace a manifold gasket. The studs, nuts and lockwashers for the head pipe joint will likely also need to be replaced; and maybe even a HeliCoil where the studs go into the manifold. > and what if any damage is being done If it is an exhaust leak, it may be ruining the manifold surface or the head surface where the leak is. Under power, those gases can act like a cutting torch. Leaks at that joint can also upset the mixture for that cylinder, which may lead to a burnt exhaust valve. > considering that the carbs, manifold, etc. have to come off to replace, If it was a TR3A, I'd leave the carbs attached to the intake manifold. That doesn't make the job trivial, but easier. Not sure if that applies to the TR6 though. > Hate to mess with what ain't broke. Me too, but exhaust leaks can do a LOT of damage if left unattended. I'd want to make certain it is an exhaust leak first; and get it fixed if it is. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 24 11:48:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 10:48:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? In-Reply-To: <003c01c91e40$493bb600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003c01c91e40$493bb600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: > Surely you do no harm in putting in the wrong brand of oil (synthetic vr. > non-synt., although the weight is correct) and running it for only 500 > miles... right or wrong? Well, the only reasonable course at this point is to replace the oil and hope it didn't do any damage. But I once added just one quart of "highly recommended additive", and less than 500 miles later the crankshaft snapped. Not a Triumph, and that engine was known to have a weak crank (not to mention having 1/4 million miles on it), but it put me right off of oil additives Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Sep 24 11:57:06 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 13:57:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? In-Reply-To: <003c01c91e40$493bb600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003c01c91e40$493bb600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8CAEC8617BCBDAA-1450-192B@webmail-md09.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: dorpaul Surely you do no harm in putting in the wrong brand of oil (synthetic vr. non-synt., although the weight is correct) and running it for only 500 miles... right or wrong? ==AM== Paul, I'm a little confused. Is this engine broken in, or is this essentially the first time it's run since the rebuild or it's otherwise got only a bit of running time since the rebuild? Most folks suggest that synthetic might well be too slippery to allow bedding in of critical parts, so it should not be used until that bedding in occurs, in probably a minimum of 500-1000 miles. I'd dump the snake oil regardless. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From dconnitt at fuse.net Wed Sep 24 12:13:17 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 14:13:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Shock Oil alternatives Message-ID: To all, I am at the point on my rebuild that I need to fill up the rear shocks with oil. Does anybody have any experience experimenting with different brands/types/viscosities of oil in the lever shocks on a TR4A? I know TRF sells shock oil but I wonder what viscosity that is? If I went with a slightly thicker oil I assume that would that tend to stiffen up the rear shock action. However, there is the shaft seal on the shock that might not like a different type of oil than the "shock oil". Also, how much do I put in each shock? Fill it to the top or what? Anybody been there, done that? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http://home.fuse.net/davest4a From motorcarriage at charter.net Wed Sep 24 12:22:20 2008 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 14:22:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) References: <5DB387E23E5D437AA6DBFE061487D3F5@LisaRichardsPC> Message-ID: <46D050EEF98C45DDA3A94E25F4CB334B@D9Z8J571> Yes, taking the Intake and Carbs off as a unit is alot easier on a TR6 too, and doesn't interfere with your synchronizing etc. If your mating surfaces are still flat all you will need is a Stud Set and new Nuts, and the Manifold Gasket, the Intake and Exhaust Gaskets are one in the same on the TR6. And of couse any Hoses that need replacing and the Manifold to Downpipe gasket if you seperate it. I changed my Exhaust Manifold to the earlier non EGR type at the same time as adding the SU HS6 Carbs. Cheers, Wayne ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Lisa Richardson'" ; Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 1:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) >> I have a 75 TR6 and it has needed a manifold gasket for years. The engine >> ticks. > > Seems likely to me that the ticking is something besides a failed gasket, > then. Leaking intake manifold gaskets hiss rather than tick; and leaking > exhaust manifold gaskets generally get worse rather quickly. If it's been > the same for years of daily driving, it must be some other problem. > >> First, what other gaskets should I be replacing? > > Gaskets don't generally "wear out", so there's no reason to replace them > unless you disturb the joint for some other reason. I'm not intimately > familiar with a 75 TR6, but I would guess that you would only need to > disturb the head pipe gasket and possibly some hoses (which I would also > replace) in order to replace a manifold gasket. The studs, nuts and > lockwashers for the head pipe joint will likely also need to be replaced; > and maybe even a HeliCoil where the studs go into the manifold. > >> and what if any damage is being done > > If it is an exhaust leak, it may be ruining the manifold surface or the > head > surface where the leak is. Under power, those gases can act like a > cutting > torch. Leaks at that joint can also upset the mixture for that cylinder, > which may lead to a burnt exhaust valve. > >> considering that the carbs, manifold, etc. have to come off to replace, > > If it was a TR3A, I'd leave the carbs attached to the intake manifold. > That > doesn't make the job trivial, but easier. Not sure if that applies to the > TR6 though. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 24 13:17:41 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 12:17:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Rear Shock Oil alternatives In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <284048.1908.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> i had a car that the shocks were pretty shot. i put in motorcyle shock oil, which i later found out was synthetic 20w. that leaked out, so for grins i put in 90w. talk about a stiff ride! was kewl until it leaked out. like i said, the shocks were really shot. --- On Wed, 9/24/08, Dave Connitt wrote: From: Dave Connitt Subject: [TR] Rear Shock Oil alternatives To: "Triumphs" Date: Wednesday, September 24, 2008, 1:13 PM To all, I am at the point on my rebuild that I need to fill up the rear shocks with oil. Does anybody have any experience experimenting with different brands/types/viscosities of oil in the lever shocks on a TR4A? I know TRF sells shock oil but I wonder what viscosity that is? If I went with a slightly thicker oil I assume that would that tend to stiffen up the rear shock action. However, there is the shaft seal on the shock that might not like a different type of oil than the "shock oil". Also, how much do I put in each shock? Fill it to the top or what? Anybody been there, done that? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http://home.fuse.net/davest4a _______________________________________________ From FGFO1 at aol.com Wed Sep 24 13:58:47 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 15:58:47 EDT Subject: [TR] figure 8 gaskets Message-ID: I think the key to getting an out of kilter liner back to where it should be is to machine the bottom of the liner not the block. If you have tried rotating the liner 4 x 90 degrees and its always the same side that's higher by the same amount, then for sure its the block. But you can compensate for that by having a good machinist take off a thousand or two at the base of the liner. He does this by setting up the liner in his lathe and dial gauge it off of square by the amount you desire to be removed. If you try it 4 x 90 and its different each time and/or the difference follows the bad side round the block, then its your liner. And that is very easy for a machinist to square up. Then I supposed its just a case of using 2 liners if you had to remove too much metal. Its a precision job that should not be trusted to any one under 40. Frank Fisher **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Sep 24 14:04:39 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 15:04:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] (no subject) References: <5DB387E23E5D437AA6DBFE061487D3F5@LisaRichardsPC> <46D050EEF98C45DDA3A94E25F4CB334B@D9Z8J571> Message-ID: <5D8B37FB076C4C45BC26CAA361049699@mikeslaptop> Wayne Lee wrote: > If your mating surfaces are still flat all you > will need is a Stud Set > and new Nuts, Damn! I thought I had filtered out all those "male enhancement" ads! Mike From motorcarriage at charter.net Wed Sep 24 14:15:05 2008 From: motorcarriage at charter.net (Wayne Lee) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 16:15:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] (no subject) References: <5DB387E23E5D437AA6DBFE061487D3F5@LisaRichardsPC> <46D050EEF98C45DDA3A94E25F4CB334B@D9Z8J571> <5D8B37FB076C4C45BC26CAA361049699@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <78EEB36489694614A19E52313C1222AB@D9Z8J571> Yeah, that's a good one. If my last name was Biden, I could get away with saying it was a Freudian slip. I have to admit I didn't notice how clever I almost was. Cheers, Wayne 64 TR4 75 TR6 (daily driver) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: "Wayne Lee" ; "Triumph List" Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 4:04 PM Subject: Re: [TR] (no subject) > Wayne Lee wrote: > >> If your mating surfaces are still flat all you will need is a Stud Set >> and new Nuts, > > Damn! I thought I had filtered out all those "male enhancement" ads! > > Mike From areich at telus.net Wed Sep 24 17:16:44 2008 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 16:16:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Swapping TR3A block for a TR4(A?) Block Message-ID: <48DACA5C.6040402@telus.net> Thanks to all for the answers re Steel Shim Head Gasket! I don't think that's my problem now and am looking at replacing the block (which does have some cracks at the stud holes). I have acquired another block from a club member ( Ser # CT25743E) which I think is from a TR4 or TR4A. My block is TS65929E which is the block that came with the car according to the Heritage Certificate. This new block is completely empty and rusty but looks ok from first check. Assuming it checks out with my trusted machine shop's validation, I would swap out EVERYTHING from my old block. Can anybody tell me what won't work and what I will have to acquire? Allan Reich Vancouver 1960 TR3A TS65713L (+O) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 24 17:35:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 16:35:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Swapping TR3A block for a TR4(A?) Block In-Reply-To: <48DACA5C.6040402@telus.net> References: <48DACA5C.6040402@telus.net> Message-ID: <9CE9F1DD39DA48BB87154EB2D0E80439@jdnet.deere.com> > I have acquired another block from a club member ( Ser # CT25743E) > which I think is from a TR4 or TR4A. Should be a 63 TR4, I believe. > Can anybody tell me what > won't work and what I will have to acquire? AFAIK, the block castings are identical. You'll need to swap the front plate from your old engine; and of course keep the main caps from the new engine but I believe everything else should interchange. Don't forget to look at things like cam bearings, and the bushing that carries the oil pump drive shaft. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 24 17:39:10 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 19:39:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 40-50? In-Reply-To: <003c01c91e40$493bb600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <003c01c91e40$493bb600$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <200809241939.11287.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 24 September 2008 08:22:59 dorpaul wrote: > Thanks to all those who encourage me in my venture. > > Surely you do no harm in putting in the wrong brand of oil (synthetic vr. > non-synt., although the weight is correct) and running it for only 500 > miles... right or wrong? > > Paul Paul, I am using Brad Penn 30W break in oil for my engine break in + 1 bottle of STP 4cyl treatment. On engine startup op is about 65PSI @ 1K rpm. Once the engine warms up to to the middle the op is 70 @ idle and about 75 PSI at 2000RPM and above. Once the break in is finished I will be changing to Brad Penn 20w50 racing oil. Brad Penn oils have extra zinc and are made for flat tappet engines. Bob From banjonut at verizon.net Wed Sep 24 19:40:28 2008 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 18:40:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks Message-ID: Hello List, A carpeting question: In a TR3A, do you mount the seat tracks over the floor carpet, or do the tracks mount directly to the floor and stick up through slots in the carpet.....or what? I can't tell by looking at my car, thanks to the large family of mice that occupied it for several years. Thanks as usual, Steve Ball Lompoc Calif TS68164L email: banjonut at verizon.net From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Sep 24 19:55:36 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 21:55:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] cable confusion Message-ID: <005d01c91eb1$ce5f3340$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I recently won a auction on ebay for a tach cable at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AME WNX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=200252120144 This cable is in good condition however, when checking it's length against my damaged original cable I see that it's a different length. The original cable was only 3' long however, the ordered one is about 5 feet long. They will proably swap and be ok, but am I right? Or maybe I'm getting these mixed up because I have a somewhat similar cable , which I thought was my speedometer cable, and it is also about 5' long. Are the tach and speedo cables interchangeable? Do they look alike? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 937 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Wed Sep 24 21:20:58 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 20:20:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 Hardtop Message-ID: Hi All - I have finally installed my finished hardtop. I have posted pictures at: http://flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157602881332130/ They are the last 14 pictures in the set. I am not real happy with the glue holding the seal around the waist, but I am an amateur, after all. I had previously thought that the waist seal would sit directly on the body, but it appears that it seals by being pulled sideways just under the capping material. I guess this will leave less of a chance of marking the paint. If anyone has any other thoughts, please let me know. I am planning on attending Triumphest next weekend, and will bring the hardtop for all to see, unless it rains. I don't have side curtains, and don't care to drive with a faceful of rain. David Gunn 1954 TR2 Coupe TS3388L _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From flashtr3 at cox.net Wed Sep 24 21:56:14 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 20:56:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks References: Message-ID: <008B7DFF2BF442C8B555AC5F0859AB98@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Hi Steve, I mounted the seat tracks on my TR3A on top of the carpet and padding. I used large fender washers to make sure the seat tracks mechanism was working properly. By shimming the track with the washers you can avoid any issues with the carpet. Ibsen Dow TS35658LO ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Ball To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 6:40 PM Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks Hello List, A carpeting question: In a TR3A, do you mount the seat tracks over the floor carpet, or do the tracks mount directly to the floor and stick up through slots in the carpet.....or what? I can't tell by looking at my car, thanks to the large family of mice that occupied it for several years. Thanks as usual, Steve Ball Lompoc Calif TS68164L email: banjonut at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From flashtr3 at cox.net Wed Sep 24 22:14:51 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 21:14:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 Hardtop References: Message-ID: <522D418B5F8D419493A38E64E5A6BC0E@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Hi David , Your TR2 looks fabulous! I have TR3A that I just finished the restoration recently. It came originally with a black steel hardtop. I painted it white, but I have not finished the rest of the top in time for Triumphest. But I plan to attend Triumphest next week end and I will be looking for your car. Ibsen Dow 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: David Gunn To: triumph list Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 8:20 PM Subject: [TR] TR2 Hardtop Hi All - I have finally installed my finished hardtop. I have posted pictures at: http://flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157602881332130/ They are the last 14 pictures in the set. I am not real happy with the glue holding the seal around the waist, but I am an amateur, after all. I had previously thought that the waist seal would sit directly on the body, but it appears that it seals by being pulled sideways just under the capping material. I guess this will leave less of a chance of marking the paint. If anyone has any other thoughts, please let me know. I am planning on attending Triumphest next weekend, and will bring the hardtop for all to see, unless it rains. I don't have side curtains, and don't care to drive with a faceful of rain. David Gunn 1954 TR2 Coupe TS3388L _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Sep 24 23:12:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 22:12:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] cable confusion In-Reply-To: <005d01c91eb1$ce5f3340$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080925051207.WJDG979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Or maybe I'm getting these mixed up because I have a somewhat > similar cable , which I thought was my speedometer cable, and > it is also about 5' long. Are the tach and speedo cables > interchangeable? Do they look alike? Paul, I believe both you and the ebay seller are confused. The speedo and tach cables do look similar, and have the same ends. But the tach cable is shorter than the standard speedo cable, which is shorter than the overdrive speedo cable. There are also length differences between LHD and RHD. Randall From npaul72464 at aol.com Thu Sep 25 06:55:00 2008 From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 08:55:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CAED250E4F77FC-734-86A@FWM-M02.sysops.aol.com> What I did was cut 3/8 wood strips the dimensions of the seat tracks and installed the tracks through them to lift them up a little.? Then I just cut out the carpet to fit around them.? Works fine. Ned Paulsen 1958 TR3A -----Original Message----- From: Steve Ball To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 9:40 pm Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks Hello List, A carpeting question: In a TR3A, do you mount the seat tracks over the floor carpet, or do the tracks mount directly to the floor and stick up through slots in the carpet.....or what? I can't tell by looking at my car, thanks to the large family of mice that occupied it for several years. Thanks as usual, Steve Ball Lompoc Calif TS68164L email: banjonut at verizon.net This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as npaul72464 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu Sep 25 07:42:20 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 09:42:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks References: <8CAED250E4F77FC-734-86A@FWM-M02.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <036501c91f14$9c2cabb0$6401a8c0@STATION6> I installed a length of 1/8" thick x 1" wide flat stock aluminum the length of the seat track. There are 4 pieces for each seat. Two on the inside on top of the carpet and two underneath the car per seat. I did this as added strength to prevent the seat track bolts from ripping through the floor in an accident. I saw this happen many years ago with the seats in a VW Bug which are fasten the same way. I have seat belts in my TR3 that would further aid in keeping the seat where it is suppose to be. Some may consider this over kill (no pun intended) but I ride with more piece of mind. Alex Manzo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 8:55 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks > What I did was cut 3/8 wood strips the dimensions of the seat tracks and > installed the tracks through them to lift them up a little.? Then I just > cut out the carpet to fit around them.? Works fine. > > Ned Paulsen > 1958 TR3A > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Ball > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Sent: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 9:40 pm > Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks > > > > > > > > > > > Hello List, > > A carpeting question: In a TR3A, do you mount the seat tracks over the > floor carpet, or do the tracks mount directly to the floor and stick up > through slots in the carpet.....or what? I can't tell by looking at my > car, thanks to the large family of mice that occupied it for several > years. > > > Thanks as usual, > > Steve Ball > > Lompoc Calif > TS68164L From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 25 07:54:56 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 13:54:56 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rear Shock Oil alternatives In-Reply-To: <284048.1908.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <284048.1908.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Recently at a local shop a TR3A racer told me to stiffen my rear shocks by using Castrol R 40W. He said the oil is a little difficult to find but that Castrol still markets it. Best regards,Tom ---------------------------------------- > D _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. From jgillis at tcd.ie Thu Sep 25 07:56:15 2008 From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 14:56:15 +0100 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks+ Message-ID: <1222350975.48db987fbddfb@mymail.tcd.ie> There is good sound advice coming in on this thread, which is of interest to me as I am also approaching that stage, but as yet nobody has answered the question: what was the original set-up? John From Loumetelko at aol.com Thu Sep 25 08:28:08 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 10:28:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TR2 Hardtop Message-ID: David: Really hate to be the bearer of sad news but it is immaterial if you have the side screens or not! When it rains you will get wet!!! The neighbors all know when I have been caught out in the rain because the carpets are laying in the sun to dry. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana 54 TR2LD ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From steven at newellboys.net Thu Sep 25 08:48:48 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 08:48:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks (TR3, house resto too) In-Reply-To: <1222350975.48db987fbddfb@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1222350975.48db987fbddfb@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <48DBA4D0.5040208@newellboys.net> John Gillis wrote: >There is good sound advice coming in on this thread, which is of interest to me >as I am also approaching that stage, but as yet nobody has answered the question: what was the original set-up? > Wasn't the original set-up rubber floor mats? :) Speaking of restorations, to finish edging a flower bed I recently drove the TR4 out to pick up some "vintage" building materials (aka a pile of old bricks) in a nearby neighorhood. The owner of the late-sixties modernist house mentioned she recently sold the original dark wood paneling to a fellow who was restoring his own late-sixties modernist house to "original" -- which required a terribly dark and depressing wood-paneled den. Sadly, my '73 house is period-incorrect for my Triumph, but maybe I could restore my garage to sixties specification? Paint a big peace sign on my old Snap-on box? What would you original hippie Triumph owners do? Steven "too young to remember" Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Sep 25 09:05:27 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 11:05:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks+ In-Reply-To: <1222350975.48db987fbddfb@mymail.tcd.ie> References: <1222350975.48db987fbddfb@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: > There is good sound advice coming in on this thread, which is of interest to> me> as I am also approaching that stage, but as yet nobody has answered the> question: what was the original set-up?> John The tracks were installed on top of the carpet. John From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Sep 25 14:23:24 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 13:23:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2 Hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0809251323u65632dcpf99dda699f62e49@mail.gmail.com> On 9/25/08, Loumetelko at aol.com wrote: > The neighbors all know when I have been caught out in the rain because the > carpets are laying in the sun to dry. Too right: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/carpet.JPG Look closely and you can see the slits in the carpet for easy removal. Geo From willgray at vaxxine.com Thu Sep 25 14:53:21 2008 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett and Carol Gray) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 16:53:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Fuel Gauge Calibration; follow-up Message-ID: A thank you to everyone who contributed thoughts to solving my fuel gauge calibration problem: I checked the gauge calibration by the "MGA with an Attitude" procedure using 100 ohm resistors, and it checked out just fine: I checked the sender unit , and that was OK: I checked the wiring connections and they seemed to be OK. Still no reading. Then staring at the photo which accompanies the description of the "MGAwaA" procedure, I realized that one of the connections used the body of the gauge as a ground. No specific ground connection for the gauge is shown in any of the wiring diagrams, evidently relying on contact of the gauge with the instrument panel. Wrong! As soon as I ran a ground wire to the gauge it worked like a charm. I celebrated by going out and putting $20 of gas in the tank just to see the gauge go up. But not by much!! Dave From Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com Thu Sep 25 15:58:38 2008 From: Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com (Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 15:58:38 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks Message-ID: <5C4A8F0616030043A27F701B49F79D6725AD300317@KENAI.amr.ch2m.com> One additional comment before this thread dies. An MGA owner once told me that it is standard practice among his kind to place a tapered wooden shim under each seat track to give the seat a little more rake. The seats in my TR4 were causing me some back pain, and I had a long tour coming up, so I decided to try it. I cut tapered strips of oak the width and length of the seat tracks, 1/2" tall at the thick end tapering to nothing at the thin end. I spray painted them black to match the carpet, and mounted them thick end forward to tilt the seats back a little. This has worked wonderfully for me, and is essentially undetectable without looking for the shims. Dean Mericas 1965 TR4 1974 Alfa 2000 GTV From ggelhar at earthlink.net Wed Sep 24 17:53:06 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 18:53:06 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Line drawing Message-ID: <380-220089324235360@earthlink.net> Hi all, Can anyone send me, or point me to, a line drawing of a TR4 or 4A looking straight at the front of the car. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . From DLylis at aol.com Thu Sep 25 18:09:26 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 20:09:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks (TR3, house resto too) Message-ID: In a message dated 9/25/2008 9:51:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, steven at newellboys.net writes: What would you original hippie Triumph owners do? Hmmmm. . . .do you know what a doobie is? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From markvaden at gmail.com Thu Sep 25 18:11:02 2008 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 17:11:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph pedal cars In-Reply-To: <8CAEAB042434C50-6D0-22E@WEBMAIL-MC05.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CAEAB042434C50-6D0-22E@WEBMAIL-MC05.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <285b8a860809251711x17a2ac17hed9fd13f8c7228c9@mail.gmail.com> I too am interested in a triumph pedal car. If anyone knows of a tr4 pedal car for sale, I am very interested. -Mark On Mon, Sep 22, 2008 at 2:53 AM, wrote: > Hi everyone. > ?I am very interested in finding out everything about these Triumph pedal cars.If you have any relative information or pictures or can name the manufacturers of these please let me know at? my email address > clarkja34 at netscape.net????? I know Triumph pedal cars were produced in TR3 models ,several TR4 models and even a TR7 model. There may be others but I don't know of any. If you know the names of anyone who might have information on these please pass on there names so I can contact them directly. Thanking you in advance for all your help. > See Yah > Jim Clark > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as markvaden at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Sep 25 18:16:34 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 20:16:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Wiring diagram. References: <380-220089324235360@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <0AF45888081D410EB57A5AF125AD8727@userb38463fba5> While you are at it does anyone have an 8 1/2 x 11 wiring diagram for a TR4A handy. Maybe in a pdf file? JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Gelhar" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 7:53 PM Subject: [TR] TR4 Line drawing > Hi all, > > Can anyone send me, or point me to, a line drawing of a TR4 or 4A looking > straight at the front of the car. > > Greg Gelhar > 1973 TR6 > 1980 TR8 > Osseo, MN > > > > . > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jerryvv at roadrunner.com > > http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.7.2/1689 - Release Date: 9/24/2008 6:51 PM From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Sep 25 18:34:44 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 20:34:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2008 Founders Day Pictures Message-ID: <8CAED86CE575918-13E8-183E@webmail-da11.sysops.aol.com> Hi Everyone, This past July fellow lister Rick Patton and I drove our TR6's up to Paris Hill, Maine in order to take in the 30th Annual Founders Day.? Although there were many activities, for us the Robert Bahre collection of automobiles was the main attraction.? I have upload images of many of the cars that are in the collection.? There are only a few LBC's and no Triumph's but many unique cars in wonderful condition.? If you have an interest check them out at www.triumphowners.com/108.? Scroll down to get to the Founders Day Poster Picture and enjoy. Incidentally, I do have additional pictures of some Packards, Dusenbergs and Mercedes that I didnt upload if anyone is interested in them specifically. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Sep 25 20:01:10 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 19:01:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks In-Reply-To: <5C4A8F0616030043A27F701B49F79D6725AD300317@KENAI.amr.ch2m.com> References: <5C4A8F0616030043A27F701B49F79D6725AD300317@KENAI.amr.ch2m.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809251901s204de199x69e421084bdc7b96@mail.gmail.com> And I'll that by using shims on the metal pads on the rear of the TR3 passenger seat bottom the seat back can be made more upright. For years I had that folding seat on the drivers side and found a more upright position comfortable. On 9/25/08, Dean.Mericas at ch2m.com wrote: > > An MGA owner once told me that it is standard practice among his kind to > place > a tapered wooden shim under each seat track to give the seat a little more > rake. From peterara at msn.com Thu Sep 25 20:09:43 2008 From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 19:09:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] gas in oil Message-ID: Just checked my oil. Looked real thin, smells of gas. Carb floats are not stuck open. Is this a fuel pump thing? Please refresh me. After I change the pump, I obviously need to change the oil and filter. Can I just refill with oil and restart? Contact me off list since I am on digest version. Thanks Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 From spitlist at cox.net Thu Sep 25 20:21:09 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 19:21:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] gas in oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200B78C087BB4FBA863338AEA5EFE1AB@newcomputer> Very likely the diaphragm in the fuel pump has ruptured allowing fuel to flow into the crankcase. Joe P.S. are you watching the USC/OSU game? -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Arakelian Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 7:10 PM To: Listers Subject: [TR] gas in oil Just checked my oil. Looked real thin, smells of gas. Carb floats are not stuck open. Is this a fuel pump thing? Please refresh me. After I change the pump, I obviously need to change the oil and filter. Can I just refill with oil and restart? Contact me off list since I am on digest version. Thanks Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Sep 25 20:30:38 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 22:30:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Wiring diagram. In-Reply-To: <0AF45888081D410EB57A5AF125AD8727@userb38463fba5> References: <380-220089324235360@earthlink.net> <0AF45888081D410EB57A5AF125AD8727@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: JVV, Meet Dan Masters http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf Just scroll down to your car. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Van Vlack Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 8:17 PM To: ggelhar at earthlink.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4A Wiring diagram. While you are at it does anyone have an 8 1/2 x 11 wiring diagram for a TR4A handy. Maybe in a pdf file? JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Gelhar" To: Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 7:53 PM Subject: [TR] TR4 Line drawing > Hi all, > > Can anyone send me, or point me to, a line drawing of a TR4 or 4A looking > straight at the front of the car. > > Greg Gelhar > 1973 TR6 > 1980 TR8 > Osseo, MN > > > > . > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jerryvv at roadrunner.com > > http://www.team.net/archive ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.7.2/1689 - Release Date: 9/24/2008 6:51 PM This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.2/1690 - Release Date: 9/25/2008 7:05 AM From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Sep 25 20:33:35 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 19:33:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A Wiring diagram. In-Reply-To: <0AF45888081D410EB57A5AF125AD8727@userb38463fba5> References: <380-220089324235360@earthlink.net> <0AF45888081D410EB57A5AF125AD8727@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <7bb181af0809251933qd8d03e6pd7952da7405d441d@mail.gmail.com> Try this (scroll down), it's even in color... http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf On 9/25/08, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > While you are at it does anyone have an 8 1/2 x 11 wiring diagram for a TR4A > handy. Maybe in a pdf file? From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Sep 26 06:23:50 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 08:23:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks+ References: <1222350975.48db987fbddfb@mymail.tcd.ie> Message-ID: <1F8DE761C3FB40D4AE6DC5298070F00E@alan> TRF shows a metal spacer that went under the tracks to keep them off the carpet. I believe they are about 3/8" - 1/2" aprox. I ordered some to keep the tracks from getting wet. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Gillis" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 9:56 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks+ > There is good sound advice coming in on this thread, which is of interest > to > me > as I am also approaching that stage, but as yet nobody has answered the > question: what was the original set-up? > John From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Sep 26 07:42:57 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 13:42:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks (TR3, house resto too) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Door beads at the exit door. Fender covers made of paisley material. Wear a head band when driving. Best regards,Tom _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go. From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri Sep 26 09:47:34 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 08:47:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks References: <008B7DFF2BF442C8B555AC5F0859AB98@DowKKXX5RXWD9> <85BB7D915E4447E2B0ED2762D357B8E8@HAMPC> Message-ID: <38C0DE0DE05841F5B6A1DF51ABBC592B@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Steve, I had the same problem with the seat frames with cracks at the mounting holes. I used again flat washers and welded them to the seat frames. The holes are now reinforce and frame is solid against the rail tracks. And you are right , it never seems to end working on these old cars, but then again that's why we probably purchased them in the first place. Good luck, Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Ball To: Ibsen Dow Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 4:19 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks Thanks Ibsen, Good idea about the washers, I'll definitely do that myself. It's going to be nice to have new tracks that are totally clean and intact. My old ones are a mess, with half the studs/bolts rusted or broken off. Now I have to see if I can repair the seat frames...they have the usual cracked sheet metal bottoms. The fun never ends with a TR3! Thanks again for the carpet information. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: Ibsen Dow To: Steve Ball ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 8:56 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks Hi Steve, I mounted the seat tracks on my TR3A on top of the carpet and padding. I used large fender washers to make sure the seat tracks mechanism was working properly. By shimming the track with the washers you can avoid any issues with the carpet. Ibsen Dow TS35658LO ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Ball To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 6:40 PM Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks Hello List, A carpeting question: In a TR3A, do you mount the seat tracks over the floor carpet, or do the tracks mount directly to the floor and stick up through slots in the carpet.....or what? I can't tell by looking at my car, thanks to the large family of mice that occupied it for several years. Thanks as usual, Steve Ball Lompoc Calif TS68164L email: banjonut at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.2/1690 - Release Date: 9/25/2008 7:05 AM From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Fri Sep 26 11:41:23 2008 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 13:41:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rally Benefits Kids Battling Serious Illness Message-ID: <8B78691E-1083-4F04-A3FC-0FD9D6D71A42@blakedischer.com> Hi everyone, This Saturday, 33 fellow British car enthusiasts will set off on one of three 800-mile legs of America's British Reliability Run, the annual two-day British car rally that has raised more than $130,000 for children's charities since 2003. Each entrant is responsible for soliciting money from friends, enemies, family, and coworkers, and each team's goal is to raise $500. All proceeds will go to three very deserving and highly-rated children's charities. Be assured that 100% of all contributions will go to charity; each team will personally bear all travel costs including lodging, zipties, food, duct tape, and spare parts. In Alabama, teams are raising money for Magic Moments which fulfills the non-medical wishes of chronically ill Alabama children, providing them an opportunity to turn away from illness and suffering  if only for a moment  and feel what it is like to just be a kid again. For Michigan, teams are driving to provide "camperships" to children who otherwise might not be financially able to attend The Hemophilia Foundation of Michigan's "Camp Bold Eagle." For Pennsylvania, we're helping the Gia Nicole Angel Fund, whose mission is to enhance the daily functioning of a child with special needs and his or her family by awarding assistance through the purchase of a specific item or items. Read more about all three charities here. We're all very busy so let's get right to the point. If you still have a few dollars in the tax deduction cookie jar earmarked for deserving groups such as these, your donation would really be appreciated, however small. You can securely use your credit card to make a donation right now, just go to http://www.abrr.org and click on Donate Now (in the upper right-hand corner). You can indicate which charity should receive your donation by choosing the corresponding state's run. If you care to learn more about the charities, see the routes, or peruse some of the varied and outstanding examples of British cars entered to date, ranging from a beautiful 1949 Bentley Mk VI to a 2007 Aston Martin Vantage (with a bunch of Triumphs all over the place!), please checkout the ABRR website at http://www.abrr.org. In gratitude, Blake Discher, Event Founder From triosan at gmail.com Fri Sep 26 11:53:42 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 10:53:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hot,Special 74 TR6 for sale Message-ID: <8cbd782d0809261053j5c7263aay3ae34eb014557235@mail.gmail.com> Sorry to bomb the lists, but thought someone of my list compatriots might be interested: *Special Hot '74 TR6 for sale: Toyota Trans, Nissan Diff, Webers* Time to sell my beloved "Triosan" as the race car gods must be fed. I am posting it on the Triumph lists prior to going to Craigslist and e-Bay. Car is in Seattle. I have spent over $6000 just to get my former track day car back to street standards. This special car includes: A new enginefresh rods,crank prep, rods, pistons and bearings. The cam is a 292 degree with 4/10" lift at the valve. New valves, some head porting,10:1 compression, new hardened rocker shaft. Triple DCOE 40 Weber carbs with 34 mm chokes. Will include a set of 30 mm chokes and at least $300 of main, air and idle jets. Electromotive crank fired ignition with electronically adjustable ignition timing Electronic tach. Jet coated Pacesetter header into a single 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster 50 muffler (a little noisy for street usebut soundss great!) Hi torque starter motor Newly cored stock radiator A new paint job -white over previous white. A new professionally installed convetable top. New high performace EuroTA 195x50 front tire with Kuhmo Ecsta 205x60 rears. A Herman Van Den Akker Toyota 5 speed conversion with linear throw out bearing A Goodparts 4.08:1 limited slip Nisssan differential Dual Tilton master cylinders with balance bar New brakes and stainless brake lines Spax adjustable front shocks, KYB rear shock conversion Nylatron bushings all around. New stiffer front and rear spings. Autopower roll bar with additional vertical and diagonal bar 5 Point Sparco seat belts OMP racing seats with sliders. Original seats available. Fuel cell with electric fuel pump and battery in trunk. The car is not perfect, but it is hot and runs very wellprobably 150 HP at the wheels and it handles well. It does not have, but for track or autocross use probably needs a rear sway bar. Does have an uprated front bar. The horn is not connected but I have the parts. There is no fuel guage. Only one blinker functions but I am working on fixing that problem. Pictures are available at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/HotSpecialTR6ForSale# I am asking $8000 for it. -- Chuck Arnold From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Sep 26 14:49:20 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 21:49:20 +0100 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Rally Benefits Kids Battling Serious Illness References: <8B78691E-1083-4F04-A3FC-0FD9D6D71A42@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <02c801c92019$5a813c20$0201a8c0@Bevan> Blake Discher wrote: > This Saturday, 33 fellow British car enthusiasts will set off on one > of three 800-mile legs of America's British Reliability Run, the > annual two-day British car rally that has raised more than $130,000 > for children's charities since 2003. Blake, thanks again for your acknowledgement at the bottom of this year's website. I wish you all a lot of fun, fine weather, no breakdowns and even more money raised for three very deserving causes. You know how I'd like to see your excellent idea develop? As the All British Reliability Run now seems to be involving three separate states in three different runs, why not encourage *all* the VTR affiliated clubs in all the States to do a similar run on the same date in the years to come. Quite apart from the fun element, just think of the money that could be raised!!!!! After all, you're the VTR President, so they ought to listen to you :) Isn't this why we own the cars we do? To drive them and enjoy doing that with other like-minded people with a very tangible overall objective. C'mon you guys and gals. Badger your club committees and get them to think this was their idea for 2009 - and if they're not too sure, they're more than welcome to join up with me in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive. Details and outline route at www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk Cheers, Jonmac From DLylis at aol.com Fri Sep 26 17:59:45 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 19:59:45 EDT Subject: [TR] Door handle piece Message-ID: On the 3A the door latch mechanism is pretty straight forward. However, there is this little cup shaped piece about 3/4" in diameter and about 3/4" long with a rolled outer lip on the top of the cup and the bottom is rounded and there is a hole. When I disassembled mine the PO obviously didn't know where it went either because he just passed the square rod through it and bolted the handle to the door. It rattled. I left it off because for the life of me cannot figure how it goes. Door latch and handle work fine without it. Anyone? TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From banjonut at verizon.net Fri Sep 26 18:50:59 2008 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 17:50:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carpeting and seat tracks Message-ID: To the list: I want to thank everyone who responded to my original question about carpeting and seat tracks. It's been a very interesting discussion, and I now have a lot of good ideas. This is a perfect example of why a list like this is such a valuable resource. Thanks again, Steve Ball Lompoc Ca From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 27 07:33:07 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 13:33:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rear Shock Oil alternatives Message-ID: <092720081333.3900.48DE36130004C42500000F3C22155754749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Dave Connitt wrote: > To all, > I am at the point on my rebuild that I need to fill up the rear shocks with > oil. Does anybody have any experience experimenting with different > brands/types/viscosities of oil in the lever shocks on a TR4A? ...Also, how much do I put > in each shock? Fill it to the top or what? Dave, when I rebuilt my 3A, I tested the shocks, found them fine, and replaced the 45 year old fluid with Harley Davidson Hydraulic Fork Oil Type "B." You can buy it from any harley shop in a pint bottle. It took about half the bottle to do the job. Cost was about $10 as I recall. Terry Smith '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 27 07:40:02 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 13:40:02 +0000 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <092720081340.17945.48DE37B2000A7B1D0000461922155754749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > I have a 75 TR6 and it has needed a manifold gasket for years. In addition to what others have posted, if you have a hard time mating the intake and exhaust manifolds, someone on the list sells these great extra thick gaskets. I blew my gaskets twice before switching to this gasket. Haven't had a problem since. Would tell you who, but can't find the receipt in my box of otherwise carefully hoarded papers. Anybody else remember? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Sat Sep 27 07:55:03 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 13:55:03 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2 Hardtop Message-ID: <092720081355.20303.48DE3B370002FCC700004F4F22155754749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Lou Metelko wrote: > Really hate to be the bearer of sad news but it is immaterial if you have the > side screens or not! When it rains you will get wet!!! Ditto what Lou Metelko wrote. In the Northeast, where the weather is balmy in the morning and thunderstorms move in seconds later, people leaving work in the evening razz me in the parking garage for putting the top up on my TR3A, then climbing into a rainsuit to keep my business suit relatively dry. Hey, any system is better than no system! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire (Go Red Sox!) From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Sep 27 11:06:09 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 13:06:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question Message-ID: Hi, I am getting ready to install new rear brake cylinders in my TR4A and looking at the contents of the installation kit, there is a small pouch of grease. I assume this grease is to lube the fulcrum point of the safety brake arm but can I also use this to lube the adjuster? If I am totally wrong, where is it used? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http:\\home.fuse.net\davestr4a From tfansher at comcast.net Sat Sep 27 16:19:55 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 18:19:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] another loss for Triumphs Message-ID: <1CF4019CB3214BC7A3D29D2D360F4340@DCS78M81> I just heard that Paul Neuman had died of cancer. I always like him and even more after he raced a TR4. Hope everyone is having a great weekend Tom From wayne at motorcarriage.com Sat Sep 27 18:10:05 2008 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 20:10:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] another loss for Triumphs References: <1CF4019CB3214BC7A3D29D2D360F4340@DCS78M81> Message-ID: Yes, God Bless Him and you had to love him for his Racing prowess no matter what he was driving. I wasn't aware of him ever racing a TR4 though. I knew he won the SCCA D Production National Championship in the ex Tullius Group 44 Triumph TR6. If anyone has any info on him racing a TR4, I'd love to see it. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 75 TR6 (Daily Driver) 64&65 Land Rover 109 Pickups 65 109 3-Door 65 Silver Cloud III ----- Original Message ----- From: "THOMAS FANSHER" To: "Triumphs list" Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 6:19 PM Subject: [TR] another loss for Triumphs >I just heard that Paul Neuman had died of cancer. > I always like him and even more after he raced a TR4. > Hope everyone is having a great weekend > Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 27 18:22:24 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 17:22:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080928002223.TTWZ28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I am getting ready to install new rear brake cylinders in my > TR4A and looking at the contents of the installation kit, > there is a small pouch of grease. I assume this grease is to > lube the fulcrum point of the safety brake arm but can I also > use this to lube the adjuster? If I am totally wrong, where > is it used? Can't lay my hands on them at the moment, but ISTR the Girling instructions say to put the contents of that pouch inside the boot on the piston. Where the cylinder rides on the back plate, the handbrake pivot, the adjuster and where the shoes touch the backplate are to be lubricated with 'white' lithium grease, not included. The pouch is a special 'red' grease, that isn't very good grease (IMO) but is compatible with brake fluid and won't attack and soften the seals as regular grease can. Since I use silicone brake fluid, I use silicone grease instead. It doesn't dry up and turn to sand like the red grease does over time. Randall From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Sat Sep 27 18:54:35 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 17:54:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <86DDE63EE2AF42F7A7A399FEAD636DAB@Induninwlaptop> Dave, The grease is for the inside of the outer rubber cup/dust seal. It helps seal out moisture and dust from the area between the piston and the outer seal. DO NOT PUT ANY INSIDE THE HYDRAULIC CYLINDER! But you knew that... right? :-) Brian 1967 TR4a ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 13:06:09 -0400 From: "Dave Connitt" Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question To: "Triumphs" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Hi, I am getting ready to install new rear brake cylinders in my TR4A and looking at the contents of the installation kit, there is a small pouch of grease. I assume this grease is to lube the fulcrum point of the safety brake arm but can I also use this to lube the adjuster? If I am totally wrong, where is it used? Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http:\\home.fuse.net\davestr4a From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Sat Sep 27 19:13:29 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 18:13:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] The "other" IRS rear end clunk In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2C6620908A25427B8635F0AA8F26E71C@Induninwlaptop> Hi list, Just wanted to give a heads up on an issue I was just able to diagnose. That is of a rear end 'clunk' in the IRS of my 4A. No, it wasn't broken diff mounts - I welded those sucker good when the frame was stripped bare and upside down. After trying solid disk wheels thinking it was bad splines, and rebuilding the diff with new bearings, etc., I finally turned my attention to the half shafts. They looked fine but had the slightest of play (they soaked for days in the parts washer) so I tried a used axle I bought this summer. I did nothing to this used axle, and it had absolutely no play in the splines. It worked - no more 'clunk' on take off! Taking it apart I found copious amounts of grease in the splines... I mean A LOT! So I slathered the original axle in grease slid it together - this was tough due to the inability for the air to be displaced - and bolted it in. Viola! No more 'clunk'! Long story short, use LOTS of grease in the splines and you will be happy you did. Brian 67 TR4A From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Sep 27 19:21:22 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 18:21:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] frame to axle clearance tr-3 Message-ID: <608823.48900.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> List, On my tr-3 restoration i have bolted the diff/axle to the springs and springs to frame and something doesn't look right. The axle is tight against the frame and even jumping on the frame only brings the frame down an inch or so. I still need to tie the rubber pads on the axle (which i overlooked doing before) so that will make the clearance between frame and axle even tighter. I find it unlikely that mounting the body on the frame will be heavy enough to spring the frame down and provide good clearance. Also the diff seems to be too low (it seems the drive shaft will line up with the hole in the X where the exhaust goes through) rather than over the floor. Wonder if I'm missing something or has anyone else had this problem. I shoulda taken more pictures........ anyway any thots? gary n. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 27 19:49:49 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 18:49:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] The "other" IRS rear end clunk In-Reply-To: <2C6620908A25427B8635F0AA8F26E71C@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <20080928014949.ESVD979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > So I slathered the original axle in grease slid it > together - this was tough due to the inability for the air to > be displaced - It's my belief that there is supposed to be a 'breather' hole in there somewhere. Perhaps it's clogged with dirt and old grease ? Otherwise, the movement of the splines will try to force air through the splines, which could eventually dry out the grease. Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Sep 27 20:02:40 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 22:02:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question References: <20080928002223.TTWZ28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <007601c9210e$49aa5c10$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> The GREEN Girling grease, "Mechanical" , if included, is intended for: "where the cylinder rides on the back plate, the handbrake pivot, the adjuster and where the shoes touch the backplate..." From triumphs at consolidated.net Sat Sep 27 20:11:24 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 21:11:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake question Message-ID: Can someone with a Spitfire, please look at the brake circuits. Which chamber on the master feeds which brake circuit (i.e. does the front fluid chamber feed the front brakes?) Thanks. Ken Gano From DLylis at aol.com Sat Sep 27 20:17:55 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 22:17:55 EDT Subject: [TR] frame to axle clearance tr-3 Message-ID: Gary, Been there, done that. Without the tub on the car the rear axle is tight to the chassis and even if the rubber "bumper" is installed prior to the springs going on, it sits tight to the top of the chassis member. I did the same as you, and jumped on the chassis as I had my doubts that this was OK. Once the tub, rear fenders, boot lid, etc. went on, clearance has developed between the axle and the chassis. This is with no interior and an absolutely empty gas tank. Apparently, I don't weigh as much as I thought, (unlikely), or all that stuff weighs a lot more than I thought. It is OK. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Sep 27 20:24:02 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 22:24:02 EDT Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/27/2008 10:11:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, triumphs at consolidated.net writes: Can someone with a Spitfire, please look at the brake circuits. Which chamber on the master feeds which brake circuit (i.e. does the front fluid chamber feed the front brakes?) Ken, it is the front chamber that feeds the front brakes on a typical dual-circuit Spitfire. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From wbeech at flash.net Sat Sep 27 20:57:58 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 20:57:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] frame to axle clearance tr-3 In-Reply-To: <608823.48900.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <608823.48900.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Your differential is OK too, the drive shaft U-Joints will handle the perceived mis-alignment. I have a few pictures if you would like to see them. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 7:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] frame to axle clearance tr-3 List, On my tr-3 restoration i have bolted the diff/axle to the springs and springs to frame and something doesn't look right. The axle is tight against the frame and even jumping on the frame only brings the frame down an inch or so. I still need to tie the rubber pads on the axle (which i overlooked doing before) so that will make the clearance between frame and axle even tighter. I find it unlikely that mounting the body on the frame will be heavy enough to spring the frame down and provide good clearance. Also the diff seems to be too low (it seems the drive shaft will line up with the hole in the X where the exhaust goes through) rather than over the floor. Wonder if I'm missing something or has anyone else had this problem. I shoulda taken more pictures........ anyway any thots? gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.3/1694 - Release Date: 9/27/2008 1:11 PM From gamerrell at qwest.net Sat Sep 27 20:58:18 2008 From: gamerrell at qwest.net (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 20:58:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] another loss for Triumphs In-Reply-To: <1CF4019CB3214BC7A3D29D2D360F4340@DCS78M81> References: <1CF4019CB3214BC7A3D29D2D360F4340@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <48DEF2CA.7070903@qwest.net> THOMAS FANSHER wrote: > I just heard that Paul Neuman had died of cancer. > I always like him and even more after he raced a TR4. > Hope everyone is having a great weekend > Tom The Group 44 Team and Watkins Glen organizers tried to get Paul Newman to Watkins Glen for the FOT race / 60th Anniversary celebrations, but his health was too poor. I chatted to some of the organizers, there were several racers including Phil Hill they were trying to have attend to recognize - both were recognized during the festivities. I paused or a while on the Walk of Fame in Watkins Glen at the race monument for Phil Hill to remember my childhood racing hero when he drove Chaparral race cars. At the Gala Auction in the IMRRA, Phil was remembered, and thoughts toward Paul Newman's health. On a positive note, our next stop, Triumphest 2008 in Lake Tahoe, 2-4 October for the 50th Birthday of Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club, the oldest continuously operated Triumph Club in the world!! We will be traveling across "The Loneliest Road in America" in the Stag, US Highway 50 across Nevada. I think the longest stretch is over 200 miles between gas stations. Glenn TSN Admin TSC USA chair From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Sep 27 21:40:15 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 23:40:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] electric fan hookup? Message-ID: <000c01c9211b$ec564480$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> The new aluminum radiator that I bought on ebay has a 'bung' on the top left for a thermostat switch (I believe). I think this will automatically control the electric 'puller' fan that I have mounted next to the radiator. Am I correct about this? Where can I go to find out more as well as what more do I need to purchase; also where can I go to learn how to wire it up? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 940 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Sep 27 23:08:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 22:08:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080928050835.GUGN19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Ken, it is > the front chamber that feeds the front brakes on a typical > dual-circuit Spitfire. So Spits are backwards to the 'big' Triumphs? Curious. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sat Sep 27 23:24:57 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2008 22:24:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake question In-Reply-To: <20080928050835.GUGN19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080928050835.GUGN19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <1A92A1DB8CCA45AD97AF8C1D70B4FBAD@newcomputer> I just compared brake line routing schematics for the TR350/TR6 with that of a Spitfire with a dual master Cylinder and surprisingly that is exactly what I found as well. Since it would appear that the master cylinders are of similar construction, it doesn't make much sense that they would be opposite. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2008 10:09 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire brake question > Ken, it is > the front chamber that feeds the front brakes on a typical > dual-circuit Spitfire. So Spits are backwards to the 'big' Triumphs? Curious. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Sep 27 23:31:26 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 01:31:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question In-Reply-To: <20080928002223.TTWZ28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Thanks Randall and others, The guy at TRF had said to put the red grease on the sides of the cylinder which made no sense at all. By the way, I noticed that the rear brake piston seems to be designed to only push on one brake shoe. Is that correct? I think the clips that hold the brake cylinder in are starting to make sense.. Does the brake cylinder slide in the opposite direction of the piston movement to operate the other brake shoe?? Thanks, Dave Connitt From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Sep 27 23:33:44 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 00:33:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question In-Reply-To: References: <20080928002223.TTWZ28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20080928053356.212D1187884@autox.team.net> Exactly. If the cylinder sticks in the backing plate, you'll have uneven wear on the brake shoes. - Tony At 12:31 AM 9/28/2008, Dave Connitt wrote: >Thanks Randall and others, >The guy at TRF had said to put the red grease on the sides of the cylinder >which made no sense at all. By the way, I noticed that the rear brake piston >seems to be designed to only push on one brake shoe. Is that correct? I >think the clips that hold the brake cylinder in are starting to make sense.. >Does the brake cylinder slide in the opposite direction of the piston >movement to operate the other brake shoe?? >Thanks, >Dave Connitt >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Sep 28 01:42:56 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 08:42:56 +0100 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake question References: <20080928050835.GUGN19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <054701c9213d$d39181e0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Randall wrote: > So Spits are backwards to the 'big' Triumphs? Curious. With respect Randall, it's not curious at all. Personally, I'm not worried which chamber feeds which circuit but if the Spitfire is different to others, then that's in the true Standard-Triumph tradition of "never try to be consistent." It's rather like the vagairies of the C.E.O.S.S. production standard (as applicable to ST) being infinitely variable. Jonmac From mdporter at dfn.com Sun Sep 28 01:56:54 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 01:56:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spitfire brake question In-Reply-To: <20080928050835.GUGN19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080928050835.GUGN19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <48DF38C6.2090206@dfn.com> Randall wrote: >> Ken, it is >> the front chamber that feeds the front brakes on a typical >> dual-circuit Spitfire. >> > > So Spits are backwards to the 'big' Triumphs? Curious. > > I think this is typical practice when brake boosters are employed. The assist end of the booster pushes on the rear of the cylinder, so the front brake circuit is rearward, to engage the front brakes first. Different in orientation in order to maintain similar operation. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sun Sep 28 04:48:05 2008 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 12:48:05 +0200 Subject: [TR] Curious occurrence Message-ID: <002b01c92157$b05fceb0$0500a8c0@Study> Some time ago I obtained a TR4A ignition kit at a good price from a dealer in the states. It consisted of a set of plugs and leads, points, condenser and distributor cap. As far as I could tell the bits were real Lucas although who knows these days! A couple of days ago I fitted these bits in the course of a routine service. The car simply would'nt start and the symptons were exactly as if the coil current was going to earth via the points spring so I naturally thought I had done the little plastic top hats wrong. But I had'nt. I put the old points back and everything was fine. So I concluded the points were faulty but could'nt find anything wrong with them. The dimensions were the same and all the insulation held up where it should. I refiitted them to the car taking great care and again the engine would'nt start showing the same problem. Once again I put the old ones in and all was well. Has anyone any ideas about this curious occurrence? David Brister, 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 14086 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From DLylis at aol.com Sun Sep 28 05:26:25 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 07:26:25 EDT Subject: [TR] Curious occurrence Message-ID: In a message dated 9/28/2008 5:49:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, david.brister at wanadoo.fr writes: Has anyone any ideas about this curious occurrence? My only thoughts are to throw them away and move on. (wink) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sun Sep 28 06:31:03 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 08:31:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Curious occurrence Message-ID: For point sets in general: Some contacts are coated with clear anti corrosion spray, cleaning with some sort of solvent would work. (This would make for a contact that does not conduct ) The screw where the point wire attaches might not have the proper stack up of insulation washers. ( This would make for a contact set that does not electrically open ) Not only do the ends of the hole need insulation, the cent er does too. Harold ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 28 07:08:09 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:08:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Curious occurrence References: Message-ID: <002801c9216b$41e258e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Could it be possible to check it out with a continuinuity meter/light/probe for where the break in the circuit is? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 8:31 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Curious occurrence > For point sets in general: > > Some contacts are coated with clear anti corrosion spray, cleaning with > some > sort of solvent would work. (This would make for a contact that does not > conduct ) > > The screw where the point wire attaches might not have the proper stack up > of > insulation washers. ( This would make for a contact set that does not > electrically -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 940 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Sep 28 07:14:01 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:14:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question References: <20080928002223.TTWZ28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> <20080928053356.212D1187884@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <002e01c9216c$140bec00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Tony, Are you saying that having this red/green grease on the rear brake cylinder backing plates (3total) helps ensure even wear? Paul ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" To: "Dave Connitt" ; "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 1:33 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question > Exactly. If the cylinder sticks in the backing plate, you'll have > uneven wear on the brake shoes. > > - Tony > > At 12:31 AM 9/28/2008, Dave Connitt wrote: >>Thanks Randall and others, >>The guy at TRF had said to put the red grease on the sides of the cylinder >>which made no sense at all. By the way, I noticed that the rear brake >>piston >>seems to be designed to only push on one brake shoe. Is that correct? I >>think the clips that hold the brake cylinder in are starting to make >>sense.. >>Does the brake cylinder slide in the opposite direction of the piston >>movement to operate the other brake shoe?? >>Thanks, >>Dave Connitt >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>http://www.vtr.org >> >> >>Triumphs at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com >> >>http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 940 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tfansher at comcast.net Sun Sep 28 07:19:43 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:19:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] electric fan hookup? References: <000c01c9211b$ec564480$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <10D94C297C854110BCAF0CDB0A7D13B9@DCS78M81> I got my switch from JEGS they come in 175 degree and 185 degree models. I the switch is open until the proper temperature is reached and then it completes the ground. I also wired mine to a toggle switch under the dash - on the "heater runner" for manual operation. Mine switch is in the metal pipe that joins the radiator hoses and so I had to use the 175 degree switch to get the proper temperature reading. Hope this helps Tom 61 TR3 (2) 62 TR4 73 Stag Subject: [TR] electric fan hookup? > The new aluminum radiator that I bought on ebay has a 'bung' on the top > left > for a thermostat switch (I believe). I think this will automatically > control > the electric 'puller' fan that I have mounted next to the radiator. Am I > correct about this? > Where can I go to find out more as well as what more do I need to > purchase; also where can I go to learn how to wire it up? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Sep 28 07:24:36 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:24:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question In-Reply-To: <002e01c9216c$140bec00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <48DF4D54.23707.385925E@localhost> On 28 Sep 2008 at 9:14, dorpaul wrote: > Are you saying that having this red/green grease on the rear brake > cylinder backing plates (3total) helps ensure even wear? Shouldn't the red grease be put on the stop side and the green grease be put on the go side? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Sep 28 07:34:03 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:34:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Cylinder Installation Message-ID: To the list, I was just sitting here this morning drinking a cup of coffee, reading emails from the list waiting for everyone else to get up. It just occured to me that I have not installed my brake cylinders correctly! I know for a fact that the cylinders do not slide back and forth in the slot on the backing plate! If I had not asked you guys about this, months from now, as I sit there in my newly restored car with the brakes squealing like a pig I would have no clue where to start looking... To make matters worse, The corrective action would have to be a major disassembly once the car is running. RIght now, the chassis is sitting on saw horses and very easy to work on. Thanks again to all that helped out. I truely don't know what we would do without this list! I will be sure to add this critical information to my restoration web site. I have to go watch the Bengals loose but will tackle this as soon as I get back home. Thanks again to everyone! Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http:\\home.fuse.net\davestr4a From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Sep 28 07:50:39 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:50:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Cylinder Installation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <48DF536F.30208.39D6AFB@localhost> On 28 Sep 2008 at 9:34, Dave Connitt wrote: > I have to go watch the Bengals loose but will tackle this as > soon as I get back home. Get those brakes centered to guard against tight ends. And if you paid someone 25 cents to do such a job you should try to get your quarter back. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Sep 28 08:04:27 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 10:04:27 EDT Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/28/2008 8:25:15 AM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > Shouldn't the red grease be put on the stop side and the green grease > be put on the go side? > Perhaps the Brits are confused and intended to supply red grease for Texas and South Carolina and blue grease for Vermot and California. Dave From tony at tonydrews.com Sun Sep 28 08:33:30 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 09:33:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question In-Reply-To: <002e01c9216c$140bec00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <20080928002223.TTWZ28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> <20080928053356.212D1187884@autox.team.net> <002e01c9216c$140bec00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080928143342.57CFA18788A@autox.team.net> I dunno about the red/green grease specifically, but there certainly should be some lubrication between the cylinder and the backing plate so that it will slide back and forth fairly freely. If it's stuck in place, only the shoe where the cylinder pushes out will engage and you'll get uneven wear. - Tony At 08:14 AM 9/28/2008, dorpaul wrote: >Tony, Are you saying that having this red/green grease on the rear >brake cylinder backing plates (3total) helps ensure even wear? >Paul > >----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" >To: "Dave Connitt" ; "Triumphs" >Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 1:33 AM >Subject: Re: [TR] Rear brake cylinder installation kit question > > >>Exactly. If the cylinder sticks in the backing plate, you'll have >>uneven wear on the brake shoes. >> >>- Tony >> >>At 12:31 AM 9/28/2008, Dave Connitt wrote: >>>Thanks Randall and others, >>>The guy at TRF had said to put the red grease on the sides of the cylinder >>>which made no sense at all. By the way, I noticed that the rear brake piston >>>seems to be designed to only push on one brake shoe. Is that correct? I >>>think the clips that hold the brake cylinder in are starting to make sense.. >>>Does the brake cylinder slide in the opposite direction of the piston >>>movement to operate the other brake shoe?? >>>Thanks, >>>Dave Connitt >>>_______________________________________________ >>> >>>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>>http://www.vtr.org >>> >>> >>>Triumphs at autox.team.net >>>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >>> >>>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>>http://www.team.net/archive >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>http://www.vtr.org >> >> >>Triumphs at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >>You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net >> >>http://www.team.net/archive > > >-- >I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. >SPAMfighter has removed 940 spam emails to date. >Paying users do not have this message in their emails. >Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Sep 28 09:11:13 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 11:11:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Cylinder Installation Message-ID: List, Does anybody know of a a specific website that shows the steps involved in installing these brake cylinders? Every time I take the backplate off, I have to replace the nyloc nuts holding the hub in and I want to minimize the replacement. Actually, I guess I could do this on the frame but it seems much easier to install the brake parts off the car and on my work bench.. Thanks, Dave Connitt From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Sep 28 09:27:12 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 15:27:12 +0000 Subject: [TR] Curious occurrence Message-ID: <092820081527.25031.48DFA250000691E7000061C722155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> David Brister wrote: > Some time ago I obtained a TR4A ignition kit at a good price from a dealer > in the states. It consisted of a set of plugs and leads, points, condenser > and distributor cap. > A couple of days ago I fitted these bits in the course of a routine service. > The car simply would'nt start. > So I concluded the points were faulty but could'nt find anything wrong with > them. The dimensions were the same and all the insulation held up where it > should. I refiitted them to the car taking great care and again the engine > would'nt start showing the same problem. Once again I put the old ones in > and all was well. > Has anyone any ideas about this curious occurrence? > > David Brister, Hi, David. You don't mention whether you got a new rotor cap with it. Rotor caps are notoriously unreliable for these cars. An old rotor cap may not match up with a new distributor cap, etc. When you swapped out the points and got the car running, did you change anything else that might be the real culprit? Condensors can also be bad from the factory. Have fun! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From fishplate at charter.net Sun Sep 28 09:36:43 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 11:36:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Curious occurrence In-Reply-To: <002b01c92157$b05fceb0$0500a8c0@Study> References: <002b01c92157$b05fceb0$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <20080928153643.XHTI3342.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 06:48 AM 9/28/2008, David Brister wrote: >The car simply would'nt start and the symptons were exactly as if the coil >current was going to earth via the points spring so I naturally thought I >had done the little plastic top hats wrong. But I had'nt. I put the old >points back and everything was fine. >So I concluded the points were faulty but could'nt find anything wrong with >them. >Has anyone any ideas about this curious occurrence? Back in my Schmieraffe days, I used to put some point sets in VWs that wouldn't work until they got "sparked" - with the ignition on and the points closed, I would manipulate them open with a screwdriver and then short them until I got a nice spark jumping the gap. I always put it down to some manufacturing oil coating the contacts that needed to be burned off. I'd give them a shot with brake cleaner or contact cleaner, then check with an ohmmeter for continuity in the right places... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 28 11:13:22 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 13:13:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Cylinder Installation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dave, In looking at the rear brake diagram at Moss, the TR4 looks to be similar to the TR6 so maybe this might help: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeUpgrade2.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Connitt Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 11:11 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Cylinder Installation List, Does anybody know of a a specific website that shows the steps involved in installing these brake cylinders? Every time I take the backplate off, I have to replace the nyloc nuts holding the hub in and I want to minimize the replacement. Actually, I guess I could do this on the frame but it seems much easier to install the brake parts off the car and on my work bench.. Thanks, Dave Connitt This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.4/1695 - Release Date: 9/27/2008 1:11 PM From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Sun Sep 28 11:33:43 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 13:33:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Curious occurrence Message-ID: In a message dated 9/28/08 9:08:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: << Could it be possible to check it out with a continuinuity meter/light/probe for where the break in the circuit is? >> Yep, with everything connected, hook one end of the test light to the point side of the coil and the other to ground. When the points are open you will get a light, when points are closed light will be off. Be sure to remove the coil wire from the dist and clip it to ground, then turn on the key. It is possible to have a engine kick if you manually make a spark. Harold ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Sep 28 12:35:22 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 11:35:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] electric fan hookup? In-Reply-To: <000c01c9211b$ec564480$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <000c01c9211b$ec564480$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: You can find the thermostat at the JEGS website ... several options ... I picked 185F ... works fine. http://www.jegs.com At 11:40 PM -0400 9/27/08, dorpaul wrote: >The new aluminum radiator that I bought on ebay has a 'bung' on the top left >for a thermostat switch (I believe). I think this will automatically control >the electric 'puller' fan that I have mounted next to the radiator. Am I >correct about this? > Where can I go to find out more as well as what more do I need to >purchase; also where can I go to learn how to wire it up? > >Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3A -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From machinemd at msn.com Sun Sep 28 12:39:57 2008 From: machinemd at msn.com (STEVE STERN) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 14:39:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Curious occurrence Message-ID: "You don't mention whether you got a new rotor cap with it. Rotor caps are notoriously unreliable for these cars." Check the rotor. I had a hairline crack that just sent the spark through to ground. Steve From t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz Sun Sep 28 13:05:32 2008 From: t.s.hardy at clear.net.nz (TREV.HARDY) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 08:05:32 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR4a Crankshafts... Message-ID: <001001c9219d$3188c9c0$0201a8c0@yourn6spa3hc62> Morning All..... In the process of reassembly of a non-IRS TR4A. Told that the crankshaft had a crack, so talked around, and have settled on a new Massey Fergusson crank. Can anybody tell me what is required to make this crank the same as the TR4 model...if anything! Thanx......Trev. hardy..Feilding....New Zealand... From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Sep 28 14:55:11 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 16:55:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Cylinder Installation References: Message-ID: Bob, Your webpage is very helpful! I always enjoy viewing your website. I also appriciate the link to the Buckeye Triumph Technical pages Thanks, Dave Connitt From bill_beecher at flash.net Sun Sep 28 16:25:41 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 16:25:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3s on TV! Message-ID: Just this week I saw two examples of a TR3 on my TV set. 1. Bank has a commercial out the starts with a silhouette of a TR3 while they pitch you for a new car loan. 2. On a Time/Life Oldies but Goodies infomercial Jimmy Jones sings, very appropriately, his hit song "Handyman" while standing in front of a very clean white TR3. (anybody on the list?) Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Sep 28 18:41:49 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 20:41:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Follow-up Message-ID: Hi, Just a quick note to say I re-assembled one of my rear brake cylinder mountings using the information I got from you guys and the cylinder does slide back and forth now. It still seems kind of an odd arrangement, especially when you consider that the hydraulic connection to the cylinder is a hard line. I would think that the brake line might tend to fracture somewhere due to constant moving. Again, thanks to all. Dave Connitt From tr6driver at earthlink.net Sun Sep 28 20:51:15 2008 From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 22:51:15 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 silly question Message-ID: <24580585.1222656675727.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Well, it's silly to me at least. I've now been driving Triumphs for 30 years...but I've never had this issue...never had a car nice enough or complete enough to have this problem. OK, don't laugh too hard... I've never had a TR6 with the factory jack, handle, lugnut wrench and two pry tools, complete with little blue pouch before. So...the leather strap is also there, but I can't figure out a way for it to hold everything. Does the jack go *under* the spare tire? Where should the jack handle be stored? (it's currently under the redline but had indented the tire from being there for so long... I realize most of you are laughing right now....:-) Thanks for any help you can give me! Boy, it's nice actually having an unmolested Triumph for the first time! Jamie Palmer '73 Triumph TR6 38k original miles, *sweet* '67 Triumph 2000 Estate (under restoration) '67 Triumph Spitfire Mk. II (frequent driver) '63 Triumph Italia 2000 (off the road for the moment) '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500 (future F Street Prepared autocross car) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Sep 28 21:06:52 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 23:06:52 EDT Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 silly question Message-ID: In a message dated 9/28/2008 7:51:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr6driver at earthlink.net writes: Well, it's silly to me at least. I've now been driving Triumphs for 30 years...but I've never had this issue...never had a car nice enough or complete enough to have this problem. OK, don't laugh too hard... I've never had a TR6 with the factory jack, handle, lugnut wrench and two pry tools, complete with little blue pouch before. So...the leather strap is also there, but I can't figure out a way for it to hold everything. Does the jack go *under* the spare tire? Where should the jack handle be stored? (it's currently under the redline but had indented the tire from being there for so long... I realize most of you are laughing right now....:-) Thanks for any help you can give me! Boy, it's nice actually having an unmolested Triumph for the first time! Jamie Palmer Jamie, You remind me of: "Ooops, has anyone seen my Congressional Medal of Honor? I think I've misplaced it, oh well-I have another one at home!" :-)) Seriously, I am green with envy. It must be a very very nice car. Old, beat up , 300,000 mile plus Mike Moore with old, beat up 300,000 mile plus TR3A. and I don't know where the jack handle is! **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 29 00:10:14 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 23:10:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rear Brake Follow-up In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080929061015.WXKB19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > I would think that the brake line might tend to > fracture somewhere due to constant moving. There's something to be said for that, but in practice it's a very small movement; and the line has several bends to absorb it. I would guess the line just 'springs' that much, so it doesn't work-harden and crack. Randall From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Mon Sep 29 02:25:39 2008 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 10:25:39 +0200 Subject: [TR] Re Curious occurrence Message-ID: <00c601c9220c$f4c2aa40$0500a8c0@Study> Grateful thanks to the unexpectedly large number of you listers who responded to my query. However the mystery has nothing to do with test lights or replacing other components, simply that fitting this one particular set of points results in a short to earth of the current entering the distributor, and yet I cannot find anything amiss with the points set. I think I will send them back to the supplier and ask him to try them himself! Thanks again all. David Brister 1967 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 14126 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Sep 29 08:53:06 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 10:53:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement Message-ID: <3A9C5E8AE48843B191ED3D7084A61E18@DCS78M81> I have a template for the letter placement for the front cowling on my TR3, BUT it's for the earlier 3's. The post 60,000 models are DIFFERENT - luckily I didn't just drill the holes and then find out ;^) -- very atypical of me.... Anyone out there have the letters off the cowl and able to make a template? Also, I'm still looking for the front bumper supports from the frame to the cowling. TIA Tom Fansher 61 TR3A (2) 62 TR4 73 Stag From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Sep 29 10:23:53 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 12:23:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Yellow TR8 at Watkins Glen Message-ID: There was a great looking yellow TR8 parked in the grass by the Classic Motorsports tent at Watkins Glen on Sunday. It might have had PA plates. Is the owner on the list? I want to ask you about your seats. Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Sep 29 10:41:07 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 12:41:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement In-Reply-To: <3A9C5E8AE48843B191ED3D7084A61E18@DCS78M81> References: <3A9C5E8AE48843B191ED3D7084A61E18@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <8CAF0694E206386-1184-388@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: THOMAS FANSHER I have a template for the letter placement for the front cowling on my TR3, BUT it's for the earlier 3's. The post 60,000 models are DIFFERENT - luckily I didn't just drill the holes and then find out ;^) -- very atypical of me.... Anyone out there have the letters off the cowl and able to make a template? ==AM== Tom, I can't help, but (at risk of opening up another "late TR3A/TR3B front apron" debate) I would suggest that this change from "ribbed" to "smooth" letters is significantly later than TS60001 and future. For what it's worth, I can vouch for (recently sold and now finally being restored by a new owner) TS71909L, built 3/28/60, having its original front apron with the wider "ribbed" letters. I suspect that the change to the narrower "smooth" letters came well later than that. Curious: how "late" is your car? and, to your knowledge, does it have the original front apron? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Sep 29 11:01:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 10:01:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement In-Reply-To: <8CAF0694E206386-1184-388@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080929170115.CHRS23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > For what it's worth, I can > vouch for (recently sold and now finally being restored by a > new owner) TS71909L, built 3/28/60, having its original front > apron with the wider "ribbed" letters. I suspect that the > change to the narrower "smooth" letters came well later than that. Perhaps not TOO much later ... Bill Piggott gives the change point as "approximately" TS72000. Randall From tfansher at comcast.net Mon Sep 29 12:05:20 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 14:05:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement References: <3A9C5E8AE48843B191ED3D7084A61E18@DCS78M81> <8CAF0694E206386-1184-388@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I'm TS76120L it's not the original cowl but one that was obtained from the dealer about 1973 or 74. The original letters were used in the new cowl, I don't know if they were predrilled or not ,, too long ago. Tom Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement > -----Original Message----- > From: THOMAS FANSHER > > I have a template for the letter placement for the front cowling on my > TR3, > BUT it's for the earlier 3's. The post 60,000 models are DIFFERENT - > luckily > I didn't just drill the holes and then find out ;^) -- very atypical of > me.... > Anyone out there have the letters off the cowl and able to make a > template? > > ==AM== > Tom, I can't help, but (at risk of opening up another "late TR3A/TR3B > front apron" debate) I would suggest that this change from "ribbed" to > "smooth" letters is significantly later than TS60001 and future. For what > it's worth, I can vouch for (recently sold and now finally being restored > by a new owner) TS71909L, built 3/28/60, having its original front apron > with the wider "ribbed" letters. I suspect that the change to the narrower > "smooth" letters came well later than that. > > Curious: how "late" is your car? and, to your knowledge, does it have the > original front apron? > > --Andy Mace From CarlSereda at aol.com Mon Sep 29 12:10:34 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 14:10:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Neuman & powder blue.. Message-ID: Saw a little Paul Neuman tribute on TV last night - when it came to his racing history .. showed him sliding around a corner fast toward the camera in a powder blue TR4! - Nice. Carl Just this week I saw two examples of a TR3 on my TV set. ************** Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From zoboherald at aol.com Mon Sep 29 12:34:37 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 14:34:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement In-Reply-To: References: <3A9C5E8AE48843B191ED3D7084A61E18@DCS78M81> <8CAF0694E206386-1184-388@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CAF0792896EBA6-1184-D26@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: THOMAS FANSHER I'm TS76120L it's not the original cowl but one that was obtained from the dealer about 1973 or 74. The original letters were used in the new cowl, I don't know if they were predrilled or not ,, too long ago.B ==AM== With the cars then over 10 years out of production, I would assume that any factory replacement aprons would NOT have been predrilled. But that late a car I think I'd expect to have smooth letters from new. Meanwhile, Randall noted: "Bill Piggott gives the change point as 'approximately' TS72000." And that seems plausible. Unfortunately, the one TR3A I still have can't be used to judge. TS73624L -- built 4/15/60 -- had a "nondrilled" replacement front apron (and subsequent additional damage to it and the right fender, all nicely brazed together and "Bondo'd" over) by the time I got it around 1973 or 1974! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon Sep 29 14:24:56 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 16:24:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4a Crankshafts... Message-ID: Trev, I have a couple of later TEA20s with the 85mm pistons that I have restored/repaired extensively. The main bearings are the same size, and the front oil seal is the same, but the rear oil seal on the MF crank is the spring around-the-rubber type, rather than the scroll seal. So you will have to get the aluminium piece that holds the seal. The seal is split, so put the split at the top to minimize leaking. (It has to be split as it couldn't get around the flange for the flywheel.) Speaking of which, it would be prudent to check the flywheel mounting on the MF vs. Triumph. The front could be different too, where the timing gear goes on...can't recall. Have a look here: http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_23/Contents.html I think I have a MF crank around still, so I could take a look. However my TR3 crank is now nicely buried in the engine so I can't see it to compare. Jim PS You can use figure 8 seals from MF too, as well as big-end bearings. But the bearings are much cheaper from Triumph suppliers, at least in North America. ===================================================== Morning All..... In the process of reassembly of a non-IRS TR4A. Told that the crankshaft had a crack, so talked around, and have settled on a new Massey Fergusson crank. Can anybody tell me what is required to make this crank the same as the TR4 model...if anything! Thanx......Trev. hardy..Feilding....New Zealand... From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Mon Sep 29 14:37:53 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 16:37:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rocker arm "spacers"? Message-ID: <48e13ca1.1b6.3c11.28134@cogeco.ca> Instead of springs? Hoping to reduce some fairly bad valve gear clatter this winter so when I saw the following ebay item I was intrigued. Whats the conventional wisdom, are they better/easier/quieter then the OEM type springs? http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=17 0267402391 Some back story as well: Valve gear was a bit noisy and while adjusting the rockers I noticed that one of the push rods was dancing a bit because it was bent, so I ordered 8 new ones. Put them in, readjusted the clearance and it didn't really do much for the noise. 3,000miles later and it was a LOT noisier, figured maybe my adjustment slipped. Re-adjusted again (didn't find any slippage) and valves were silent and smooth like the finest swiss watch, for about 5 minutes. Reved the engine a few times and the noise level built back up to normal. I'm thinking maybe there's play in the rocker shaft & bushings so I thought I'd replace the bushings over the winter. And maybe now the springs for spacers....? From adcronin at ameritech.net Mon Sep 29 15:45:30 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 14:45:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement Message-ID: <399740.72640.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Moss catalog shows the hole patterns for post and pre TS60000 TR's, but unfortunately it's not to scale! Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: Andrew Mace To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 2:34:37 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement -----Original Message----- From: THOMAS FANSHER I'm TS76120L it's not the original cowl but one that was obtained from the dealer about 1973 or 74. The original letters were used in the new cowl, I don't know if they were predrilled or not ,, too long ago.B ==AM== With the cars then over 10 years out of production, I would assume that any factory replacement aprons would NOT have been predrilled. But that late a car I think I'd expect to have smooth letters from new. Meanwhile, Randall noted: "Bill Piggott gives the change point as 'approximately' TS72000." And that seems plausible. Unfortunately, the one TR3A I still have can't be used to judge. TS73624L -- built 4/15/60 -- had a "nondrilled" replacement front apron (and subsequent additional damage to it and the right fender, all nicely brazed together and "Bondo'd" over) by the time I got it around 1973 or 1974! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Mon Sep 29 18:11:45 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 18:11:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement In-Reply-To: <8CAF0694E206386-1184-388@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> References: <3A9C5E8AE48843B191ED3D7084A61E18@DCS78M81> <8CAF0694E206386-1184-388@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8DEE0D986A4A441182C0204CE6EE52D4@sniffer> The TRA Judging guide calls for smooth letters from TS-50000 forward. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Mace Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 10:41 AM To: tfansher at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement -----Original Message----- From: THOMAS FANSHER I have a template for the letter placement for the front cowling on my TR3, BUT it's for the earlier 3's. The post 60,000 models are DIFFERENT - luckily I didn't just drill the holes and then find out ;^) -- very atypical of me.... Anyone out there have the letters off the cowl and able to make a template? ==AM== Tom, I can't help, but (at risk of opening up another "late TR3A/TR3B front apron" debate) I would suggest that this change from "ribbed" to "smooth" letters is significantly later than TS60001 and future. For what it's worth, I can vouch for (recently sold and now finally being restored by a new owner) TS71909L, built 3/28/60, having its original front apron with the wider "ribbed" letters. I suspect that the change to the narrower "smooth" letters came well later than that. Curious: how "late" is your car? and, to your knowledge, does it have the original front apron? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1696 - Release Date: 9/29/2008 7:25 PM From mathews at uga.edu Mon Sep 29 18:16:50 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 20:16:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement In-Reply-To: <8CAF0792896EBA6-1184-D26@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> References: <3A9C5E8AE48843B191ED3D7084A61E18@DCS78M81> <8CAF0694E206386-1184-388@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> <8CAF0792896EBA6-1184-D26@webmail-mf06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080930001654.A9ABB18765B@autox.team.net> I had a 63TR3B in 1963 and it needed a new cowl in 1964..the new factory cowl did NOT have pre-drilled holes and one of the reason this brain remembers that far back is how badly the body shop screwed up putting the letters back on. Doug At 02:34 PM 9/29/2008, Andrew Mace wrote: >With the cars then over 10 years out of production, I would assume that >any factory replacement aprons would NOT have been predrilled. But that >late a car I think I'd expect to have smooth letters from new. From ElangTR4 at aol.com Mon Sep 29 18:16:54 2008 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 20:16:54 EDT Subject: [TR] 73 TR6 silly question Message-ID: TR6s came with a tool kit??? Probably only the nice ones.... Eric L. 71 TR6 (non-tool kit version) **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 29 18:51:52 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 20:51:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 silly question In-Reply-To: <24580585.1222656675727.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <24580585.1222656675727.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: I could never figure it out either. I just arrange it so that it's all wedged in and the spare keeps it from rattling around. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jamie Palmer Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 10:51 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 silly question Well, it's silly to me at least. I've now been driving Triumphs for 30 years...but I've never had this issue...never had a car nice enough or complete enough to have this problem. OK, don't laugh too hard... I've never had a TR6 with the factory jack, handle, lugnut wrench and two pry tools, complete with little blue pouch before. So...the leather strap is also there, but I can't figure out a way for it to hold everything. Does the jack go *under* the spare tire? Where should the jack handle be stored? (it's currently under the redline but had indented the tire from being there for so long... I realize most of you are laughing right now....:-) Thanks for any help you can give me! Boy, it's nice actually having an unmolested Triumph for the first time! Jamie Palmer '73 Triumph TR6 38k original miles, *sweet* '67 Triumph 2000 Estate (under restoration) '67 Triumph Spitfire Mk. II (frequent driver) '63 Triumph Italia 2000 (off the road for the moment) '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500 (future F Street Prepared autocross car) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1696 - Release Date: 9/28/2008 1:30 PM From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Sep 29 19:39:54 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 18:39:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3s on TV! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0809291839u6e9a3670sf081e4b81b9cd490@mail.gmail.com> It's USBank and you have to ready for it as the TR3 appears quickly in the opening moments. On 9/28/08, Bill Beecher wrote: > Just this week I saw two examples of a TR3 on my TV set. > > 1. Bank has a commercial out the starts with a silhouette of a TR3 while > they pitch you for a new car loan. > > 2. On a Time/Life Oldies but Goodies infomercial Jimmy Jones sings, very > appropriately, his hit song "Handyman" while standing in front of a very > clean white TR3. (anybody on the list?) > > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Sep 29 20:23:12 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 19:23:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals Message-ID: <36370.36839.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm just curious about how people are shopping/buying during a frame off restoration. Are people happhy with the TRF club deals where you pay to join and then get monthly coupons. Also the Moss plan where if you initially spend around $1500 you get a percentage off from then on and are assigned a technical person from Moss as a consultant. any ideas? gary n.. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 29 20:24:27 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 21:24:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 silly question References: <24580585.1222656675727.JavaMail.root@mswamui-bichon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <001301c922a3$b5d63da0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> the jack goes in the passenger side rear, along with the spare coil. the spare distributor goes in the drivers side rear, along with the spare plugs, points, cap, rotor, and condensor the spare water pump goes in the drivers side front the spare alternator goes in the passenger side front the 18" pipe (wrench extender) goes between the tire and rear the tire iron goes under the tire ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Jamie Palmer'" ; Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 7:51 PM Subject: Re: [TR] '73 TR6 silly question >I could never figure it out either. I just arrange it so that it's all > wedged in and the spare keeps it from rattling around. > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Jamie Palmer > Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2008 10:51 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 silly question > > Well, it's silly to me at least. I've now been driving Triumphs for 30 > years...but I've never had this issue...never had a car nice enough or > complete enough to have this problem. OK, don't laugh too hard... > > I've never had a TR6 with the factory jack, handle, lugnut wrench and two > pry tools, complete with little blue pouch before. So...the leather strap > is also there, but I can't figure out a way for it to hold everything. > Does > the jack go *under* the spare tire? Where should the jack handle be > stored? > (it's currently under the redline but had indented the tire from being > there > for so long... From wbeech at flash.net Mon Sep 29 20:42:26 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 20:42:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3s on TV! In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0809291839u6e9a3670sf081e4b81b9cd490@mail.gmail.com> References: <7bb181af0809291839u6e9a3670sf081e4b81b9cd490@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <7EFD5084A08549ADBD292995749C91A9@sniffer> Yep, and I saw another on last night on the late movie, "Three to tango", white TR3A. Wow, three in one week! Maybe BMW is quietly getting us used to seeing them again? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 7:40 PM To: Bill Beecher Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3s on TV! It's USBank and you have to ready for it as the TR3 appears quickly in the opening moments. On 9/28/08, Bill Beecher wrote: > Just this week I saw two examples of a TR3 on my TV set. > > 1. Bank has a commercial out the starts with a silhouette of a TR3 > while they pitch you for a new car loan. > > 2. On a Time/Life Oldies but Goodies infomercial Jimmy Jones sings, > very appropriately, his hit song "Handyman" while standing in front > of a very clean white TR3. (anybody on the list?) > > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is > called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1696 - Release Date: 9/29/2008 7:25 PM From banc8004 at comcast.net Mon Sep 29 21:48:04 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 23:48:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rocker arm "spacers" Message-ID: <7E678DBB-9E37-4636-B55C-5C7EC4475473@comcast.net> >Instead of springs? > >Hoping to reduce some fairly bad valve gear clatter this winter so when I saw >the following ebay item I was intrigued. >Whats the conventional wisdom, are they better/easier/quieter then the OEM >type >springs? AMCEWEN2: Rocker spacers are claimed to reduce friction in the rocker assembly. Actually they only measurably reduce friction on your wallet going into your back pocket, it being slimmer and all, now that you have the spacers... Check your compression - are the valves closing and sealing as they should? Is oil reaching the rockers? At idle, take the valve cover off and look for oil flow through the rocker shaft holes. Are the nuts on the rocker pedestals torqued to spec? After noise returns from running 5 mins, have the valve clearances changed when the engine is cold again? Are the adjusting screws and nuts knackered? Did you tighten the lock nuts enough when setting the adjustment? I didn't once and lost a pushrod in the ensuing debacle. Can you feel play in the rocker shaft? Is your timing OK? Is it one rocker, going clak.....clak.......clak, or more than that going clak.clak.clak.clak.clak? I don't know what your problem is, but am sure that spacers won't fix it. If you press down on the screw head as you adjust the valve clearance, and then lock it at 10 thou, cold, I don't see how the gap could open up over 5 minutes. Investgation is needed. BTW, I reset my valve clearances much more frequently than every 3,000 miles. It takes me 10 minutes, and is 'enjoyable', I find. Likewise, timing. Don't even get me started on the SUs.....LOL. ;^) I have found the directions for both clearances and timing found on Macy's Garage to be more convenient than the manuals. Valve clearances, going by cylinder to cylinder rather than the rule-of- nine: http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/valve_adjustment.htm Timing: http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/ign-timing.htm Good luck , From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 30 00:11:45 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 23:11:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Front cowl letter placement In-Reply-To: <8DEE0D986A4A441182C0204CE6EE52D4@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080930061146.NWNO28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > The TRA Judging guide calls for smooth letters from TS-50000 forward. Mine says "not before TS50000"; which I take to mean that either ribbed or smooth will be "acceptable" on cars after TS50000, rather than being a definite change point. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 30 00:20:37 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 23:20:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4a Crankshafts... In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080930062037.UGNB23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > The main bearings are the same size, and the front oil seal > is the same, but the rear oil seal on the MF crank is the > spring around-the-rubber type, rather than the scroll seal. > So you will have to get the aluminium piece that holds the seal. A source of those pieces MIGHT be a rubber seal conversion kit for the TR3, available from most LBC vendors. However, you'd need to check that either the MF crank journal is the same size as required for the conversion; or that the MF seal will fit in the conversion frame. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Sep 30 06:07:18 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 08:07:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals In-Reply-To: <36370.36839.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <36370.36839.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200809300807.18361.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 29 September 2008 22:23:12 Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm just curious about how people are shopping/buying during a frame off > restoration. Are people happhy with the TRF club deals where you pay to > join and then get monthly coupons. Also the Moss plan where if you > initially spend around $1500 you get a percentage off from then on and are > assigned a technical person from Moss as a consultant. > > any ideas? > > gary n.. Gary, I currently am working on my 3rd body off frame. (72 TR6). Since the project will take at least 3 to 4 years (at least), I look to the winter sales for the best prices. I have never used the TRF club since I get my parts in large bunches, not something every month. For this project I have made a spreadsheet with the part I need, TRF part # and price, Moss part # and price, VB part # and price and other part and price for those parts that the big 3 dont have available. I scan Ebay, Craigslist and VTR's classifieds for those good deals that come along during my free time. I also use this list as well as the 6 pack list to ask around for those "special" parts that dont seem to appear anywhere. Usually a member has the part or knows where to go to get that part. Bob From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Sep 30 06:28:02 2008 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 05:28:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals Message-ID: <63427.25984.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am doing the TRF car club thing. I did it before when I did my TR3. Now I also have a TR6 so I am doing it again. I still am buying lots of TR3 parts! It seems like a good deal and saves quite a bit of money. It also makes you work on your car more steadily because the parts roll around monthly in minimum $100 (before discounts) batches. I encourage the TRFCC. Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 19:23:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Nafziger Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals To: triumphs at autox.team.net I'm just curious about how people are shopping/buying during a frame off restoration. Are people happhy with the TRF club deals where you pay to join and then get monthly coupons. Also the Moss plan where if you initially spend around $1500 you get a percentage off from then on and are assigned a technical person from Moss as a consultant. any ideas? gary n.. From pethier at comcast.net Tue Sep 30 07:21:01 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 13:21:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals Message-ID: <093020081321.10772.48E227BD000A619C00002A1422165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > For this project I have made a spreadsheet with the part I need, TRF part # > and price, Moss part # and price, VB part # and price and other part and > price for those parts that the big 3 dont have available. When I was bringing the Europa back from the dead in 1991 I did this. It is amazing how much this helps. The three pieces of advice I have for anyone rehabbing or restoring a car: 1. Excel. 2. Camera. 3. Baggies. Include paper note explaining what the part is. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 2007 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Sep 30 07:51:51 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 09:51:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rocker arm "spacers" Message-ID: <48e22ef7.1c6.1f2f.31911@cogeco.ca> > Check your compression - are the valves closing and sealing as they > should? Will try to blag a compression tester, but plugs seem a uniform colour so I'm guessing compression is similar across all 4. >Is oil reaching the rockers? At idle, take the valve cover off > and look for oil flow through the rocker shaft holes. Rocker area is uniformly wet with oil, over all pressure is good. > Are the nuts on > the rocker pedestals torqued to spec? 25FTlb > After noise returns from running 5 mins, have the valve clearances > changed when the engine is cold again? Noise returns immediately on startup after the first adjustment, subjectively worse when hot. Spot checking revealed no change and all nuts still snug. >Are the adjusting screws and > nuts knackered? Well a couple are rounded now... ;) But still tighten fine. Did you tighten the lock nuts enough when setting the > adjustment? > I didn't once and lost a pushrod in the ensuing debacle. Can you feel > play in the rocker shaft? Is your timing OK? End float yes, up/down no, but then there's always a couple of springs pushing up on it so I wouldn't feel any virtical play even if it were there I'm thinking. > > Is it one rocker, going clak.....clak.......clak, or more than that > going clak.clak.clak.clak.clak? That last one. > > I don't know what your problem is, but am sure that spacers won't fix > it. No, likely not, however I'm thinking the problem could be the rocker arm shaft and bushings, and since the springs will have to be out maybe I should replace them for spacers at the same time.... Thanks for the links, I'll check em out. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Sep 30 09:10:01 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 11:10:01 EDT Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals Message-ID: In a message dated 9/30/2008 6:22:28 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, pethier at comcast.net writes: > For this project I have made a spreadsheet with the part I need, TRF part # > and price, Moss part # and price, VB part # and price and other part and > price for those parts that the big 3 dont have available. When I was bringing the Europa back from the dead in 1991 I did this. It is amazing how much this helps. The three pieces of advice I have for anyone rehabbing or restoring a car: 1. Excel. 2. Camera. 3. Baggies. Include paper note explaining what the part is. -- I have restored my TR3 twice now in 45 years of ownership. I've also restored several other cars including two E Type Roadsters. Most of the other cars had parts bought on as needed basis. The last E Type, I had a virtually unlimited budget so I decided to identify via a large spreadsheet as many parts as possible as I needed and stock a parts room. I sent the spreadsheet out for pricing. Instead I got offers of "discounts: whether I bought all the parts at once or over time. I placed a large spreadsheet order, but I don't think I would do it again as a hobbyist. Some of the problems I had: 1. $250 starter motor was defective. Discovered 18 months after purchase and warranty was useless. 2. Numerous parts were incorrect, and non-returnable.Probably $1000 worth. 3. Storage of parts and ability to determine where they are was a problem. Although shipping cost is a pain, I try to buy out of state. If you can get a 20% discount from an out of state store, and avoid the 7% you'd pay in state sales tax, then that's a nice discount. Also, for me, quality is the top issue as it is lacking in general in aftermarket off-shore built parts. My philosophy now is to look ahead and see what I'm going to need for the next major task, decide who I'll but it from, and order it. I thoroughly check everything when it comes in IF POSSIBLE. I bought a horn contact switch kit for the E Type for $85. I didn't put it I immediately because it was complicated with lots of little pieces and I wasn't ready to install it.It was pure junk.parts didn't fit, springs didn't "spring" etc. I still have that $85 kit (non-returnable) and am ashamed to sell it on. I have thought of putting some of these parts on ebay, just so I can show pictures and describe how awful they are and where they came from.My lawyers says no. Best, Mike Moore **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 30 10:33:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 09:33:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rocker arm "spacers" In-Reply-To: <48e22ef7.1c6.1f2f.31911@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <20080930163348.GWYQ19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Rocker area is uniformly wet with oil, over all pressure is good. But that doesn't answer the question. You need to specifically check for oil flow _through_ the rocker, to see that the bushing inside is being lubricated. The passages to the rockers are deliberately fed at much lower pressure than the main oil gallery and so can fill with oil sludge enough to block the flow. > > Can you feel > > play in the rocker shaft? Is your timing OK? > > End float yes, If you are saying the shaft can move fore/aft, then the special locating screw is loose or fallen out. This can lead to all sorts of ills, including what you describe. ISTR the screw hole also enters the oil passage, so if the screw is out, the rockers are not getting lubed either. > No, likely not, however I'm thinking the problem could be the > rocker arm shaft and bushings, Seems like a good point to throw in a plug for these people: Rocker Arm Specialist 19841 Hirsch Court Anderson, CA 96007 Tel (530) 378-1075 fax (530) 378-1177 mailto:rocker at c-zone.net No financial interest, just a very satisfied customer. > and since the springs will > have to be out maybe I should replace them for spacers at the > same time... I think you'd get more benefit from one of those soup can exhaust extensions. At least people would be able to see that you're putting on useless "go fast" accessories ... Randall From barrie at look.ca Tue Sep 30 11:29:17 2008 From: barrie at look.ca (Barrie Robinson) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 13:29:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals In-Reply-To: <36370.36839.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <36370.36839.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, I have restored a TR3, Austin Healey, MGB GT V8 and now into a 1955 Aston Martin. The way I do it is to shop around. I found LBCcompany very reasonable but got some stuff cheaper from other sources (wire wheels). Moss can be good but I found interiors were better and cheaper from Prestige in the UK ( BUT not original). I was quoted $68 for my Aston rubber spark plug covers but got them from Metro Mouldings in USA for $15- then found cheaper ones in the UK. My Aston valves I got made to order cheaper at a specialist than they were from Aston suppliers. I found a European supplier of MGB styled switches at one quarter of the price from MGB parts suppliers. My Aston uses TR3 rear lights and the prices of these vary all over the place!!! Leather for the Aston interior is half the price from furniture supply sources - and as good. I found fasteners difficult and my nearest "cheap" supplier is a 2.5 hour drive away. The ONLY way is to shop around At 10:23 PM 9/29/2008, Gary Nafziger wrote: >I'm just curious about how people are shopping/buying during a frame off >restoration. Are people happhy with the TRF club deals where you pay to join >and then get monthly coupons. Also the Moss plan where if you initially spend >around $1500 you get a percentage off from then on and are assigned a >technical person from Moss as a consultant. > >any ideas? > >gary n.. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as barrie at look.ca > >http://www.team.net/archive Regards Barrie Barrie Robinson (705) 721-9060 http://www.britishv8.org/MG/BarrieRobinson.htm http://www.britcot.com From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Tue Sep 30 16:09:24 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 18:09:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rocker arm "spacers" Message-ID: <48e2a394.2fb.2ee8.27912@cogeco.ca> > > Rocker area is uniformly wet with oil, over all pressure is good. > > But that doesn't answer the question. You noticed that eh? ;) I can't remember if I saw the oil coming out or not, certainly new oil appeared from somewhere in the top end. I had it running with the cover off for a while but for the most part I had the cover in place while running then took it off to inspect after the car was shut off (keeps less oil on the fenders, rad, hair, glasses etc..). > If you are saying the shaft can move fore/aft, then the special locating > screw is loose or fallen out. This can lead to all sorts of ills, including > what you describe. ISTR the screw hole also enters the oil passage, so if > the screw is out, the rockers are not getting lubed either. Where is the screw located? > Seems like a good point to throw in a plug for these people: > Rocker Arm Specialist Talk about specialization... > > and since the springs will > > have to be out maybe I should replace them for spacers at the > > same time... > > I think you'd get more benefit from one of those soup can exhaust > extensions. At least people would be able to see that you're putting on > useless "go fast" accessories ... > So you're not a fan? ;) Just figured if the trouble was in the shaft it might not pay to put 45yo springs back in, not expecting any performance improvement per say. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Sep 30 16:13:59 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 23:13:59 +0100 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help Message-ID: <014c01c92349$d78bfbf0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Guys, I'm really sorry to bomb the list but I urgently need some help from a lister in California who is going to be at Triumphest this coming week. Glenn Merrell (known to many) is undertaking to promote the Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 at this event on my behalf and he needs the powerpoint presentation I prepared for my visit to Watkins Glen in early Sept. Seems my file at 13Mb is crashing Glenn's server (or falling out of it) and I can't email it to him before he leaves home. I've put the file through WinZip and this has reduced it marginally to about 11Mb so its still too large. Could any of you guys step in to receive the file on Glenn's behalf, drop it on a CD or flash drive and hand it to him at the Fest? If you can, I really would be most grateful. Perhaps in your replies off-list to me, you'll copy Glenn in as well just in case my email to him of who I've sent the file to doesn't reach him before he leaves home. Also, pls advise if you would prefer a zipped or unzipped version. Sorry to put such a technical computer issue on this forum but the presentation itself is 100% copper-bottomed Triumph!!!!!!! Cheers, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 30 16:27:43 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 15:27:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Rocker arm "spacers" In-Reply-To: <48e2a394.2fb.2ee8.27912@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <20080930222742.GKL6349.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Where is the screw located? #4 pedestal, on the side away from the pushrods. Takes a special cupped lockwasher too. > Just figured if the trouble was in > the shaft it might not pay to put 45yo springs back in, > not expecting any performance improvement per say. In that case, go right ahead. BTW, RAS used new springs when they rebuilt my rocker shaft, along with new nuts, adjusters, etc. Even the rockers looked brand new (though I'm sure they just reconditioned the old ones, including some kind of copper-colored plating). Price with shipping wound up being about what the parts would have cost me. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 30 16:33:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 15:33:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help In-Reply-To: <014c01c92349$d78bfbf0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <20080930223311.NCGG23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Jonmac : Unfortunately, even 11Mb is too large for nearly all email systems. What you need to do is find the "split zip file" option in WinZip, and generate two or more smaller files. http://www.winzip.com/wzdsplit.htm Then email each of the smaller files to Glenn (in separate emails) and he can recombine them. Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Sep 30 16:42:11 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 17:42:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help References: <20080930223311.NCGG23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4AF467B560404C02B9465167C4FFAB44@KARL> Find someone with SBCGlobal / AT&T DSL. I regularly e-mail larger files than that to a client - saves a trip downtown. Karl > Unfortunately, even 11Mb is too large for nearly all email systems. From spitlist at cox.net Tue Sep 30 16:56:16 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 15:56:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help In-Reply-To: <20080930223311.NCGG23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <014c01c92349$d78bfbf0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <20080930223311.NCGG23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7F2C5A47AE484F13AA4FF20968CB92B5@newcomputer> Or better still, why not post the file to an internet side and make it downloadable. Then anybody can go to that site and simply save the file onto their computer. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 3:33 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: 'Glenn Merrell' Subject: Re: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help Jonmac : Unfortunately, even 11Mb is too large for nearly all email systems. What you need to do is find the "split zip file" option in WinZip, and generate two or more smaller files. http://www.winzip.com/wzdsplit.htm Then email each of the smaller files to Glenn (in separate emails) and he can recombine them. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From cm.sherman at verizon.net Tue Sep 30 17:18:40 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 23:18:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals Message-ID: <1019649411-1222816715-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-331785963-@bxe191.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Shopping iaround is key, but avoid eBay directly. Those commercial resellers on eBay offer have better direct pricing or free shipping since there's no added transaction fee. As for TRF, consider the investor club. Better return than Wall street (lol) and a 35 percent discount. Charles has never missed a dividend payment, you get terrific pricing and your initial investment back. This has been a great way to save doing a long term resto project, while receiving a investment benefit. Corey Sherman Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From cm.sherman at verizon.net Tue Sep 30 17:21:16 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 23:21:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] TRF club...........Moss deals Message-ID: <3692751-1222816871-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-16218018-@bxe191.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Shopping around is key, but avoid eBay directly. Those commercial resellers on eBay often have better direct pricing or free shipping since there's no added transaction fee. As for TRF, consider the investor club. Better return than Wall street (lol) and a 35 percent discount. Charles has never missed a dividend payment, you get terrific pricing and your initial investment back. This has been a great way to save doing a long term resto project, while receiving a investment benefit. Corey Sherman Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 30 17:31:39 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 16:31:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help In-Reply-To: <014c01c92349$d78bfbf0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <514221.32468.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> save your powerpoint as a pdf. then it will be small enough to mail and he can still show it, but as a pdf, one page at a time on the screen. --- On Tue, 9/30/08, John Macartney wrote: From: John Macartney Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: "Glenn Merrell" Date: Tuesday, September 30, 2008, 5:13 PM Guys, I'm really sorry to bomb the list but I urgently need some help from a lister in California who is going to be at Triumphest this coming week. Glenn Merrell (known to many) is undertaking to promote the Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 at this event on my behalf and he needs the powerpoint presentation I prepared for my visit to Watkins Glen in early Sept. Seems my file at 13Mb is crashing Glenn's server (or falling out of it) and I can't email it to him before he leaves home. I've put the file through WinZip and this has reduced it marginally to about 11Mb so its still too large. Could any of you guys step in to receive the file on Glenn's behalf, drop it on a CD or flash drive and hand it to him at the Fest? If you can, I really would be most grateful. Perhaps in your replies off-list to me, you'll copy Glenn in as well just in case my email to him of who I've sent the file to doesn't reach him before he leaves home. Also, pls advise if you would prefer a zipped or unzipped version. Sorry to put such a technical computer issue on this forum but the presentation itself is 100% copper-bottomed Triumph!!!!!!! Cheers, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Sep 30 17:49:13 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 19:49:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help In-Reply-To: <20080930223311.NCGG23829.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <8CAF16E469A5371-10EC-26BE@WEBMAIL-MB08.sysops.aol.com> I have found one of the easiest ways to send and receive large files is to register a user name with AIM, have your recipient do the same, connect to each other, then select direct connect, then drop the file into the send section, hit enter and you will transmit the file, regardless of size. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: 'Glenn Merrell' Sent: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 6:33 pm Subject: Re: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help Jonmac : Unfortunately, even 11Mb is too large for nearly all email systems. What you need to do is find the "split zip file" option in WinZip, and generate two or more smaller files. http://www.winzip.com/wzdsplit.htm Then email each of the smaller files to Glenn (in separate emails) and he can recombine them. Randall From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Sep 30 18:17:50 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 20:17:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] body off frame experience. Message-ID: <200809302017.51171.yellowtr@adelphia.net> All, Last weekend as I was removing stuff from my latest project and was hauling it down to the cellar for storage, I had that strange feeling I was Radar O'Relily from Mash in that episode where he was dismantling a jeep one part at a time and shipping it to Iowa. Any one else ever get that feeling? The parade of parts is over for now as the body is off the frame. As soon as I get some good weather so I can get the 3 and the bikes out of the garage, I then can get the engine out so I can go to town on the frame during the winter and spring. SOFARSOGOOD. Bob From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Sep 30 18:17:58 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 18:17:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help In-Reply-To: <8CAF16E469A5371-10EC-26BE@WEBMAIL-MB08.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CAF16E469A5371-10EC-26BE@WEBMAIL-MB08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <48E2C1B6.1060008@tscusa.org> Hi All, thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to have John upload it to the TTA web site and then I'll download it in Lake Tahoe. acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: > I have found one of the easiest ways to send and receive large files > is to register a user name with AIM, have your recipient do the same, > connect to each other, then select direct connect, then drop the file > into the send section, hit enter and you will transmit the file, > regardless of size. > > Aaron > > Aaron Cropley > 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) > http://www.triumphowners.com/108 > 2002 Mini Cooper S > Topsham, Maine > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Randall > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Cc: 'Glenn Merrell' > Sent: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 6:33 pm > Subject: Re: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help > > Jonmac : > > > > Unfortunately, even 11Mb is too large for nearly all email systems. > > > > What you need to do is find the "split zip file" option in WinZip, and > > generate two or more smaller files. > > http://www.winzip.com/wzdsplit.htm > > > > Then email each of the smaller files to Glenn (in separate emails) and he > > can recombine them. > > > > Randall > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Find phone numbers fast with the New AOL Yellow Pages > ! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Tue Sep 30 20:53:06 2008 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 19:53:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 J Type OD Transmissions Message-ID: <172259.71223.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I am looking at a J-type overdrive (without transmission) that is for a Sunbeam Alpine. Does anyone know if all J-types are the same? Will this work on my 74 TR6? How hard is it to find a TR6 OD trans without the overdrive unit? TIA Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA 1960 TR3A 1974 TR6 From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Sep 30 20:54:31 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 22:54:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Test: Delete Message-ID: <48E2E667.2070509@earthlink.net> Testing. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 30 22:16:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 21:16:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 J Type OD Transmissions In-Reply-To: <172259.71223.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20081001041644.OZEO28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does anyone know > if all J-types are the same? Not all the same. Tailhousings (and mounting method) vary, speedo drives, operating pressure. > Will this work on my 74 TR6? Beats me. > How > hard is it to find a TR6 OD trans without the overdrive unit? Fairly hard, I'd say. Especially with Volvo ODs so readily available. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Sep 30 22:16:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 21:16:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 J Type OD Transmissions In-Reply-To: <172259.71223.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20081001041644.OZEO28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does anyone know > if all J-types are the same? Not all the same. Tailhousings (and mounting method) vary, speedo drives, operating pressure. > Will this work on my 74 TR6? Beats me. > How > hard is it to find a TR6 OD trans without the overdrive unit? Fairly hard, I'd say. Especially with Volvo ODs so readily available. Randall From TJBARILLA at COX.NET Sun Sep 28 11:04:11 2008 From: TJBARILLA at COX.NET (TOM BARILLA) Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 13:04:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Message-ID: <3A8D6046A41646A8B71E8D94F47E7899@NEWOFFICE> I ran across your website while trying to find out information on how to test for a battery drain while the car in off. My battery went totally dead so I purchased a new Sears Diehard. After installation my 1974 TR6 started right up and was charging at around 12.5-13 on the amp meter. Within 3 days this new battery also went completely dead. Absolutely nothing. After charging it I ran some tests with a testing light. I disconnected the negative lead from the battery, attached the testing light lead to the negative battery post, took out one fuse at a time,and then touched the end of the testing light to the negative lead. The testing light lit up. One by one I disconnected every fuse and with no fuses in the fuse box the testing light still lit up. From everything I have read this should not have happened once all fuses were removed. How can I have a battery drain with no fuses in the fuse box? Am I doing something wrong? Any advice you can give me will be greatly appriciated. Tom Barilla TJBARILLA at COX.NET