From supertr6 at earthlink.net Wed Oct 1 05:50:18 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 07:50:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] '73 TR6 silly question Message-ID: <48E363FA.5040902@earthlink.net> Don't laugh. I asked this question years ago. Here are the two emails I kept about TR6 tool placement. (another reason to go to a new fangled BBS system with search): Joe Burlein 72 TR6 (supercharged!) " From: rgb at exact.com To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Mon, 27 Jul 17:14:07 1998 Subject: TR6 - OEM jack handle location Message-ID: <9807271714.AA21636 at exact.exact.com> I have never found an appropriate place to put the jack handle in the trunk. Where did the OEM guy's put it and how was it wedged to prevent rattling, etc.? Added note, the cars all seemed to come with these 4 items? 1. jack - green, blue, black... in that order '69-'76 2. jack handle - black, blue, black... in that order '69-'76 3. lug wrench - black OR knockoff thingee (was a hammer included?) 4. tool kit - blue, slightly larger than a pocket protector (I have only seen small items here, no real tools) A couple of cars have the remains of the tool strap, but I can see no useful way to use it! If anyone has a better sample of the OEM configuration, especially the darn jack handle, I'd like to know! Thanks, Roger -- Roger G. Bolick, rgb at exact.com 512-794-9567, FAX 512-345-2879" " From: David.Williams at gems7.gov.bc.ca (David Williams) To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Tue, 28 Jul 1998 08:20:20 -0700 Subject: TR 6 Jack Handle Message-ID: A brief excursion off of the digest and onto the main list..... When I bought my first TR 6 (a 74 that I still have) the jack handle was situated on top of the spare tire lid and underneath the trunk (boot) carpet. It remains there and has never been a rattle etc. problem. The vinyl tool kit and the folding lug wrench are held by the belt and the jack itself fits the corner of the compartment where it can be wedged snug. ******************************* David J.R. Williams Manager K-12 Curriculum Standards and Learning Resource Evaluations Program Standards and Education Resources Branch Province of British Columbia Ministry of Education, Fax: (250)356-2316 Phone: (250)356-2317 Cell: (250) 216-0103" E-mail: David.Williams at gems7.gov.bc.ca" From jmitch at snet.net Wed Oct 1 06:34:33 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 08:34:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 J Type OD Transmissions In-Reply-To: <172259.71223.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <172259.71223.qm@web83308.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48E36E59.7010808@snet.net> Call John Esposito at Quantum Mechanics. Until recently he had a Sunbeam(Tiger I think) of his own. I'm sure he can answer your questions. John Mitchell 76 TR6 William Brewer wrote: > I am looking at a J-type overdrive (without transmission) that is for a > Sunbeam Alpine. Does anyone know if all J-types are the same? Will this work > on my 74 TR6? How hard is it to find a TR6 OD trans without the overdrive > unit? > TIA > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > 1960 TR3A > 1974 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Wed Oct 1 06:51:58 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 08:51:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A crankshafts Message-ID: I checked the journal for the seal on the Fergie crank and as near as I can tell it is 2.815". However, I'm not totally certain the arms on the calipers are long enough to really hit the max. diameter. I thnk so. Also, there is a bit of surface rust... But if this number is quite far off what is expected for those kits, then we know something. Jim =================================== From: "Randall" > The main bearings are the same size, and the front oil seal > is the same, but the rear oil seal on the MF crank is the > spring around-the-rubber type, rather than the scroll seal. > So you will have to get the aluminium piece that holds the seal. A source of those pieces MIGHT be a rubber seal conversion kit for the TR3, available from most LBC vendors. However, you'd need to check that either the MF crank journal is the same size as required for the conversion; or that the MF seal will fit in the conversion frame. Randall From N197TR4 at cs.com Wed Oct 1 07:54:17 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 09:54:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?Rocker_Arm_Spacers_=A0Value=3F?= Message-ID: <2E69B4D8.1FD9ED19.00159EE9@cs.com> List, If you look at any rocker arm shaft used by a TR in competion, it will likely have spacers. Not because it measurably increases HP or provides a measurable heat reduction. It is simply something you do because you can. When you add up all little 'improvements' it does make a difference. And if properly fitted, they can provide positive location of the rocker arms at all rpm levels. If you rebuild your rocker arm shafts (and you likely should)the Nylatron Spacers make a nice addition..... if you are so inclined to do this to your street car. It's a personal choice. For example, I have anodized aluminum tube that replaces the tower support cross bar on my fanless engine. It doesnt do much, but it is amazing how many folks (racers) who have asked me to make more of them. IT LOOKS COOL! They CAN provide some measure of camber adjustment (RH/LH Threads)I made mine on the basis of a conversation with Kas Kastner. (Yup, he used rocker arm spacers, too) Joe Alexander From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Oct 1 09:02:06 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 11:02:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] body off frame experience. In-Reply-To: <200809302017.51171.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200809302017.51171.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <8CAF1EDCDF35661-534-65A@WEBMAIL-DZ12.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Bob Last weekend as I was removing stuff from my latest project and was hauling it down to the cellar for storage, I had that strange feeling I was Radar O'Relily from Mash in that episode where he was dismantling a jeep one part at a time and shipping it to Iowa. Any one else ever get that feeling? ==AM== More than once! I've also, at least in the past, had other Radar O'Reilly moments such as the time the bus (or Jeep or whatever) stopped running. Radar, looking under the hood and feeling perplexed, yelled: "Nothing's where it is on my mom's Nash!?" :-) Right now, I have various bits of a to-be Spit 6 project just about everywhere in the barn, in the garage, and even out on the side lawn (old, rusted GT6 tub needing to be scavenged for useful bits and then disposed of).... --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 1 09:41:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 08:41:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A crankshafts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081001154155.GZSP979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > But if this number is quite far off what is expected for > those kits, then we know something. Unfortunately, the diameter for the conversion kit is closer to 2.520. So the conversion seal isn't going to work with the MF crank, unless it's modified. But .150 or so per side isn't all that much, so it's still possible the MF seal will fit into the conversion housing. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Wed Oct 1 18:51:29 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 20:51:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Rear door seal Message-ID: Rear door seal; rubber piece 13.5" long. Does this glue to the outer edge of the B post; thin edge toward the rear, fat edge toward the front? The door closes against it? As well, I bought the complete rubber set from Moss on sale a long time ago. Is there no seal on the leading edge of the door opening where the carpet piece meets from the inside? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 1 18:52:41 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 20:52:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] flushing oil quality? Message-ID: <012c01c92429$2d493000$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, If one only intends to put new oil in the engine and run it for 30 minutes before draining it, then I would think a cheap 10w-30 or 20w-50 would be sufficeint right?.... I wish to flush the old oil out. Thanks, Paul -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 940 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From DLylis at aol.com Wed Oct 1 20:09:30 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 22:09:30 EDT Subject: [TR] flushing oil quality? Message-ID: The price difference between "cheap" oil and quality oil is not sufficient enough to use "cheap" oil. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From tony at tonydrews.com Wed Oct 1 21:34:48 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 22:34:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A crankshafts In-Reply-To: <20081001154155.GZSP979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081001154155.GZSP979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20081002033454.6943F18765A@autox.team.net> As long as it's oversized, it can be cut down to the proper size for not a lot of money. - Tony D At 10:41 AM 10/1/2008, Randall wrote: > > But if this number is quite far off what is expected for > > those kits, then we know something. > >Unfortunately, the diameter for the conversion kit is closer to 2.520. So >the conversion seal isn't going to work with the MF crank, unless it's >modified. > >But .150 or so per side isn't all that much, so it's still possible the MF >seal will fit into the conversion housing. > >Randall >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Oct 1 22:49:39 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 21:49:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4A crankshafts In-Reply-To: <20081002033454.6943F18765A@autox.team.net> References: <20081001154155.GZSP979.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> <20081002033454.6943F18765A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CDFEF5C-87D4-4377-B318-A3C9D39F93BD@gmail.com> I've been away for a while, mostly health, and have not had much luck finding this answer in the archives, but why would an owner want to replace a TR crank with a MF crank, when there are so many good cranks out there? Just trying to catch up.... Bill Slightly Classics Tucson, AZ On Oct 1, 2008, at 8:34 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > As long as it's oversized, it can be cut down to the proper size for > not a lot of money. > > - Tony D > > At 10:41 AM 10/1/2008, Randall wrote: >>> But if this number is quite far off what is expected for >>> those kits, then we know something. >> >> Unfortunately, the diameter for the conversion kit is closer to >> 2.520. So >> the conversion seal isn't going to work with the MF crank, unless >> it's >> modified. >> >> But .150 or so per side isn't all that much, so it's still possible >> the MF >> seal will fit into the conversion housing. >> triumphs at autox.team.net >> Randall >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbmcleod at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From banc8004 at comcast.net Thu Oct 2 08:03:36 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 10:03:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] More BS about TRs: throttle return spring Message-ID: <7E67EA71-0766-440F-B226-B25B64238C1E@comcast.net> On page 22 of his tome, "More BS about TR's", Bob Schaller has a section on an auxiliary carb return spring. The piece finishes: "The illustration shows the simple fabrication necessary." But not in my case; I must have a several-generations-removed-from-original copy, because this image is largely a black blob. I am imagining a spring attached to the backside of an air filter and to the linkage between the carb shafts. If so, is there a piece attached to the linkage to give the spring some leverage? Where on the linkage does the spring act? Is it on the rear carb shaft, or the centre section? A clear description, or clear photo would be very welcome. Thanks, Brian From wbeech at flash.net Thu Oct 2 08:39:42 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 08:39:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] More BS about TRs: throttle return spring In-Reply-To: <7E67EA71-0766-440F-B226-B25B64238C1E@comcast.net> References: <7E67EA71-0766-440F-B226-B25B64238C1E@comcast.net> Message-ID: Brian, Yes, it will take a fabrication of some sort. I am looking at the picture and the spring runs from the back of the air cleaner to a small "T" style post in the center of the linkage, attached by the linkage clamp bolts. I'll scan this and send it to you, hopefully it will help. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Jones Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 8:04 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] More BS about TRs: throttle return spring On page 22 of his tome, "More BS about TR's", Bob Schaller has a section on an auxiliary carb return spring. The piece finishes: "The illustration shows the simple fabrication necessary." But not in my case; I must have a several-generations-removed-from-original copy, because this image is largely a black blob. I am imagining a spring attached to the backside of an air filter and to the linkage between the carb shafts. If so, is there a piece attached to the linkage to give the spring some leverage? Where on the linkage does the spring act? Is it on the rear carb shaft, or the centre section? A clear description, or clear photo would be very welcome. Thanks, Brian This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1702 - Release Date: 10/1/2008 9:05 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 2 09:41:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 08:41:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] More BS about TRs: throttle return spring In-Reply-To: <7E67EA71-0766-440F-B226-B25B64238C1E@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20081002154155.MPRO16945.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > If so, is > there a piece attached to the linkage to give the spring some > leverage? Where on the linkage does the spring act? Is it on > the rear carb shaft, or the centre section? Mine is not a whole lot clearer, but I can see an additional lever attached to roughly the center of the center section of throttle shaft, pointing nearly straight up. Looks to be approx 1.25" or maybe 1.5" long. The clamp-on crank from the front shaft would work well here, I think, but I don't see any evidence of the clamp arrangement in Bob's photo. Looks more like it was drilled to fit over the shaft, then soldered into place. Randall From thomasb at queensu.ca Thu Oct 2 10:50:27 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 12:50:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Genuine Lucas Sleeve/Rubber for Pre TS50000 TR2/3 Message-ID: <0K8400CAVES3B740@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi, Does anyone have for sale or have a source for a "genuine" LUCAS sleeve/rubber that fits the early (pre TS50000) BOMB starter used on TR2s and TR3s? I'm currently having a starter rebuilt and the vendor prefers not to use the more commonly available aftermarket piece which he usually sees fail after a couple of month's service. Lucas part number is TLB160 and TR part number 501237. Thanks, Brian Brian S. Thomas email: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point, R R 1 office:613-533-2228 Wolfe Island, Ontario fax: 613-533-2168 CANADA K0H 2Y0 home: 613-385-1947 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Oct 2 11:45:59 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 13:45:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Genuine Lucas Sleeve/Rubber for Pre TS50000 TR2/3 Message-ID: Have you contacted Ken Giilanders at British Frame and Engine? The one he put in TS41723L has worked just fine since 1990. I just replaced it with a high speed starter. Mike Moore **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 2 14:09:15 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 13:09:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Genuine Lucas Sleeve/Rubber for Pre TS50000 TR2/3 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081002200915.PQWS19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Have you contacted Ken Giilanders at British Frame and > Engine? The one he put in TS41723L has worked just fine > since 1990. Ken had a special "fail safe" version made that provided the cushioning but did not rely on bonded rubber to do so. Basically steel 'paddles' bearing on rubber in compression. But he told me I got the last one maybe 10 years ago now, and he wasn't planning on having any more made due to slow sales and general lack of interest. But maybe if there is sufficient demand from those unwilling to install the gear-drive starter; Ken could be persuaded to sell/donate the design to someone like Joe Alexander or Charles Runyon to have another run made. Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Thu Oct 2 16:30:21 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 18:30:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Ashtray In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <74A5E994409540A9BC777349AD589511@CarlPC> Larry (L1J1S) asked this question some time ago but never received a response. Thought I would cast the net again and see what happens. Does anyone know of a source for the faceplate for the TR3 ashtray. Originally they were bakelite but I have seen at least one made of wood but finished to look like the original. I have the metal portion (& knob) but no faceplate. Thanks Carl TS81802LO coming together slowly From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 3 06:05:22 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 08:05:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Genuine Lucas Sleeve/Rubber for Pre TS50000 TR2/3 Message-ID: <277B541B.7DBE7B69.36296DCF@cs.com> "Randall" wrote: >> Have you contacted Ken Giilanders at British Frame and >> Engine? The one he put in TS41723L has worked just fine >> since 1990. > >Ken had a special "fail safe" version made that provided the cushioning but >did not rely on bonded rubber to do so. Basically steel 'paddles' bearing >on rubber in compression. But he told me I got the last one maybe 10 years >ago now, and he wasn't planning on having any more made due to slow sales >and general lack of interest. > >But maybe if there is sufficient demand from those unwilling to install the >gear-drive starter; Ken could be persuaded to sell/donate the design to >someone like Joe Alexander or Charles Runyon to have another run made. > >Randall I'll jump on that band wagon. Put me down for one. Heck, I'll buy two just to get the ball rolling. Anyone else? Dave Massey TS18010 From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Fri Oct 3 19:58:56 2008 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2008 20:58:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lancias in town (no LBC) Message-ID: <7bfc62290810031858i405957f4n8ea4ac03e464da12@mail.gmail.com> Went into town this evening for dinner and discovered a Lancia contingent. It appears that there is a coast to coast tour of them, entitled "Appias Across America", making their way along US 6 from Calif. to Mass. Today's stop was Wellsboro, PA. A nice group of cars; Appias, Fulvias, Flavias, perhaps 20 total. Brave souls. I wouldn't try to drive an Italian car across the country. --Phil Barnes --'71 TR6 (CC61193L) From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Oct 3 20:03:43 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 22:03:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lancias in town (no LBC) In-Reply-To: <7bfc62290810031858i405957f4n8ea4ac03e464da12@mail.gmail.com> References: <7bfc62290810031858i405957f4n8ea4ac03e464da12@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CAF3DC901A4CF2-520-1778@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com> Brave souls. I wouldn't try to drive an Italian car across the country. --Phil Barnes --'71 TR6 (CC61193L) .....people probably say the same thing about us when they see us driving our Triumphs around...... Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Oct 3 21:25:13 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 23:25:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] tire rotation Message-ID: With modern tires and IRS, is it still advisable to rotate the tires? I'm interested not from a wear or longevity standpoint, but for continued handling and cornering performance. Thanks for your thoughts. Tom '76 TR6 From david.greed at wave.co.nz Sat Oct 4 01:51:28 2008 From: david.greed at wave.co.nz (David Greed) Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2008 20:51:28 +1300 Subject: [TR] tire rotation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1223106688.25885.12.camel@louie.greedsville.net> I have never rotated the tyres on my Triumphs (Saloons and Stag - all with IRS) - the tyres seem to wear evenly to the point where they all get replaced at the same time. More important is to ensure that the wheel alignment is correct (all four wheels), and the same with tyre pressures. Cheers DavidG 74 Stag Man O/D 79 2500S Man O/D On Fri, 2008-10-03 at 23:25 -0400, Tom Note wrote: > With modern tires and IRS, is it still advisable to rotate the tires? I'm > interested not from a wear or longevity standpoint, but for continued > handling and cornering performance. > Thanks for your thoughts. > > Tom > '76 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as david.greed at wave.co.nz > > http://www.team.net/archive From thomasb at queensu.ca Sat Oct 4 05:43:50 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2008 07:43:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Genuine Lucas Sleeve/Rubber for Pre TS50000 TR2/3 In-Reply-To: <277B541B.7DBE7B69.36296DCF@cs.com> References: <277B541B.7DBE7B69.36296DCF@cs.com> Message-ID: <0K8700ER0PXE3X20@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi all, If someone does pick up on Ken Gillander's design and go into production, like Dave, I'd be game for two also. FYI, I did write Ken (BFEKen at copper.net) asking if he had any and he responded with "None left, unfortunately". I've copied Ken on this so he knows what we're discussing. Cheers, Brian At 08:05 AM 2008-10-03, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: >"Randall" wrote: > > >> Have you contacted Ken Giilanders at British Frame and > >> Engine? The one he put in TS41723L has worked just fine > >> since 1990. > > > >Ken had a special "fail safe" version made that provided the cushioning but > >did not rely on bonded rubber to do so. Basically steel 'paddles' bearing > >on rubber in compression. But he told me I got the last one maybe 10 years > >ago now, and he wasn't planning on having any more made due to slow sales > >and general lack of interest. > > > >But maybe if there is sufficient demand from those unwilling to install the > >gear-drive starter; Ken could be persuaded to sell/donate the design to > >someone like Joe Alexander or Charles Runyon to have another run made. > > > >Randall > >I'll jump on that band wagon. Put me down for one. Heck, I'll buy >two just to get the ball rolling. Anyone else? > >Dave Massey >TS18010 >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as thomasb at queensu.ca > >http://www.team.net/archive Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point work: 613-533-2228 R R 1 fax: 613-385-1948 Wolfe Island, Ontario home: 613-385-1947 K0H 2Y0 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Oct 4 15:48:00 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 14:48:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage Message-ID: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm curious about what people are using to drill out spot welds. I've been using regular drill bits (bought more expensive one at Sears which didn't help a whole lot) and I find they don't last long. I'm just wondering what others have found to work well. Do the special spot weld drill bits work well? Or are there more expensive regular bits that work just as well? Also does anyone know what guage steel tr-3 bodies are made of? I'll be needing to buy some replacement steel soon. thanks! gary n. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 4 16:13:26 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 18:13:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage In-Reply-To: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200810041813.27100.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 04 October 2008 17:48:00 Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm curious about what people are using to drill out spot welds. I've > been using regular drill bits (bought more expensive one at Sears which > didn't help a whole lot) and I find they don't last long. I'm just > wondering what others have found to work well. Do the special spot weld > drill bits work well? Or are there more expensive regular bits that work > just as well? > > Also does > anyone know what guage steel tr-3 bodies are made of? I'll be needing to > buy some replacement steel soon. > > thanks! > gary n. Gary, I used one of these along with liberal cutting oil. Worked nice. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14684&itemType=PRODUCT Bob From adcronin at ameritech.net Sat Oct 4 16:56:49 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 15:56:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Messed up rocker shaft stud holes Message-ID: <419877.77543.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Purchased a 4A head several months ago (mail) and just noticed that someone in the past has "chased" the stud holes with either the wrong tap (metric?) or otherwise. Has anyone had any experience using heli-coil in-certs in a situation like this or are there other methods? Is there enough room around the stud casting in the water jacket area to drill out for the next larger stud size? In addition, noticed that the back intake manifold stud hole appears to have been drilled out so it is open to the head stud. Any problem with this other than remembering that the intake stud needs to be loosened before trying to take out the head stud down the road? Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Sat Oct 4 17:36:36 2008 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie) Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:36:36 +0100 Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage In-Reply-To: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48E7FE04.7000103@virgin.net> I have tried the special spot weld drills but find that once blunt are impossible to sharpen. 1/4 " standard drill is best. When the edge goes it can be touched up on the bench grinder. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm curious about what people are using to drill out spot welds. I've been > using regular drill bits (bought more expensive one at Sears which didn't help > a whole lot) and I find they don't last long. I'm just wondering what others > have found to work well. Do the special spot weld drill bits work well? Or > are there more expensive regular bits that work just as well? > > Also does > anyone know what guage steel tr-3 bodies are made of? I'll be needing to buy > some replacement steel soon. > > thanks! > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 4 18:33:36 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 17:33:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage In-Reply-To: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There is a special tool that is sorta like a very small hole saw that actually drills a hole in the panel around the spot weld and leaves the actual weld sticking up a bit without leaving any holes. All you have to do is grind it smooth and install the new panel. I got mine from an auto body repair store. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 2:48 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage I'm curious about what people are using to drill out spot welds. I've been using regular drill bits (bought more expensive one at Sears which didn't help a whole lot) and I find they don't last long. I'm just wondering what others have found to work well. Do the special spot weld drill bits work well? Or are there more expensive regular bits that work just as well? Also does anyone know what guage steel tr-3 bodies are made of? I'll be needing to buy some replacement steel soon. thanks! gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Sat Oct 4 20:22:39 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 22:22:39 EDT Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage Message-ID: Gary, As to the gauge of steel, I took a piece of my front wing to my local industrial supplier and was assured that it was 18 gauge. I had an unfortunate surprise that a rather large area of both front wings needed to be replaced. I knew there was some but in the end it was larger than the "patch pieces" the big 3 sell would handle. I used 18. Having said all that, if you are repairing much smaller areas, 20 is much easier to work and for smaller areas that's what I did. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From dconnitt at fuse.net Sun Oct 5 06:54:31 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 08:54:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage In-Reply-To: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary, There are a couple of different types of spot weld drill that I have seen and the both have been mentioned. I have used both. The first one looks kind of like an end mill bit. It has a fla end with two cutting surfaces and a very small pointed tip that is intended to hold the bit in the intended location while you cut thru the spot weld. Nice idea in that it only removes the weld and if you stop when it gets thru the first piece of metal you end up with a nice smooth surface on the second flange behind the weld. These work gread until the point goes away which is usually after about 20 welds as I remember. Once the point is gone you will have a heck of a time keeping the bit in one spot. They are basically a throw-away at that point. The second one is the mini hole saw type. This has a small dia. drill bit in the center which makes a pilot hole for the little hole saw. These last much longer but you end up with a small hole in the center. You also end up with a "disc" of metal which has to be ground down before you can install your new piece. After using both types when I was restoring my TR4A tub, I actually prefer a regular drill bit. You end up with a hole in the piece you are going to save but that is no problem if you pick up a piece of copper sheet you can use to back the hole when you plug weld it. Just hold the copper piece against the back of the hole and fill the hole with weld. Grind if off and you have an invisible weld. I bought a set of 3 different shapes and the plug welding pliers described below from Eastwood and they worked great. If you can find one, pick up a pair of plug welding pliers. It's a vise-grip type of tool that has a copper plate that swivels on one jaw and a forked hole on the other. You just clamp the two pieces together with the forked jaw facing you and weld the hole shut. I have some pictures of me using them to weld up my sills on my website if you want to see them. Go to the bodywork section and take a look. http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a Dave Connitt From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Oct 5 08:04:34 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 10:04:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Ashtray References: <74A5E994409540A9BC777349AD589511@CarlPC> Message-ID: <020a01c926f3$4c8ac100$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi Carl, I have a friend who reproduces them. I will copy him on this and if he still does it I am sure he will contact you. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carl TR" To: Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 6:30 PM Subject: [TR] TR3A Ashtray > Larry (L1J1S) asked this question some time ago but never received a > response. Thought I would cast the net again and see what happens. > > Does anyone know of a source for the faceplate for the TR3 ashtray. > Originally they were bakelite but I have seen at least one made of wood > but > finished to look like the original. > > I have the metal portion (& knob) but no faceplate. > > Thanks > Carl > TS81802LO coming together slowly From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Oct 5 10:45:05 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 12:45:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Justin Wagner Message-ID: <32B3611F34414A76A8396B8AADF62AD6@bobspc> Justin Wagner..........if you're still around please contact me off list. Or has anyone heard from him lately? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jat1127 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 5 15:48:54 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 17:48:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 6 & MG A Western Ma Message-ID: Listers, Several times this summer I have seen a nice green TR6 and today a white MG A in my neighborhood. That being, in this case, Greenfield, Ma. The driver seems to be the same for both cars. Someone on the list ??? Cheers John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Oct 6 03:35:55 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 10:35:55 +0100 Subject: [TR] TRIUMPHEST - Help Message-ID: <026701c92796$ef64d430$0201a8c0@Bevan> Many thanks to those who replied in the middle of last week offering to solve the issue of getting a powerpoint presentation to Glenn Merrell at the Triumphest event. As things turned out, I was able to edit said presentation whereby I greatly reduced the file-size and it was easily emailable. Even better, Glenn got it in time. Thanks to all concerned. Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Oct 6 05:17:17 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2008 07:17:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 6 & MG A Western Ma In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <48E9BB7D.21932.2C43E0FF@localhost> On 5 Oct 2008 at 17:48, john taylor wrote: > Several times this summer I have seen a nice green TR6 and today > a white MG A in my neighborhood... > > The driver seems to be the same for both cars. How does he do that? Some sort of remote control? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From AA00727 at aol.com Mon Oct 6 12:22:02 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 14:22:02 EDT Subject: [TR] TR-3 Bottom Door Seal Message-ID: I am not certain about the positioning of the bottom door seal on my '62 TR-3. Could someone who is certain they have theirs located correctly please email a photo of it on their door? Thanks. Gary in WI **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca Mon Oct 6 16:18:50 2008 From: cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca (Cameron Joyce) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 18:18:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lower Wishbone Removal Message-ID: After a long hiatus, I'm finally resuming the R&R of the front suspension of my TR3A to replace the springs, shocks and bushings. Almost everything has come off so far without a fight - My current challenge is getting the LH front lower wishbone arm removed. It is free of the fulcrum pin and bushing, but there isn't enough clearance between the threaded end of the fulcrum pin and the threaded bottom end of the rocker shaft to remove the wishbone arm. I've removed the drop arm nut, and on my car the space between the rocker shaft and the end of the fulcrum pin is about 7/8"... the end of the wishbone arm is approx 1 3/16" . Is this tight spacing normal? Is there a simple way to remove the arm without having to remove the drop arm and rocker shaft or moving the steering box? TIA Cameron Joyce '59 TR3A From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 6 16:54:15 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 15:54:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lower Wishbone Removal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081006225415.UJNO19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Is there a simple way to remove > the arm without having to remove the drop arm and rocker > shaft or moving the steering box? At least on my cars, I've been able to twist the arm as it slides off, to fit under the end of the rocker shaft. Randall From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:26:10 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 17:26:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest Pictures Message-ID: Hi All - If you are curious, I have posted my pictures from Triumphest at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157607773846064/ I apologize for the pictures taken in the parking garage. The Saturday Funcourse was moved into the covered parking garage when the weather reports predicted rain and some snow. Unfortunately, the lighting was not very good. Sunday morning, the sky cleared and the sun came out for the group pictures. If you recognize someone's car, please note it under the picture, I'm sure we'd all like to know. Although I packed my sidescreens, duct tape, and rolls of plastic, I arrived Thursday evening before the storm came in, parked in covered parking during the storm, and left in the bright sunshine. Only got a couple of drops on the windshield, and none in my face; although, with the windchill factor, it was downright cold at speed with only the hardtop. Enjoy, David Gunn 1954 TR2 Coupe TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ From DLylis at aol.com Mon Oct 6 18:47:27 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 20:47:27 EDT Subject: [TR] Cowl Vent Message-ID: Somewhere there is an Englishman laughing his arse off. I just finished installing the cowl vent on my 3A. It took just about as long to rebuild the motor. Of course, that some PO found wisdom in drilling out the 10-32 threads in the cowl, brazing on a KMart cabinet hinge and putting nuts underneath didn't help. I think Cowl Vent is the proper name for it. Lately I have been calling it @#$%^&*. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From AA00727 at aol.com Mon Oct 6 19:11:08 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 21:11:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TR-3 Heater Switch? Message-ID: As the restoration nears completion we find that my TR-3's Heater Switch is not useable. Does anyone have a spare they would be willing to sell? Gary in WI **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Oct 6 19:13:35 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2008 20:13:35 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge Message-ID: <14532924.347851223342015721.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Just to pass this on. On Friday, my wife and I were heading to lunch. The oil line that drives the oil pressure gauge failed at the gauge, and proceeded to insert 2 quarts of oil into my 1972 Triumph TR6. It was like a bad horror movie when the walls start to bleed. I have 3 year new tan Wilton wool carpet from TRF and now that I have used 7 rolls of paper towels (so far) and had a few days to recover, after throwing the stereo away and possibly 2 speakers, I wanted to pass on some advice. Please consider checking or replacing this item or at the very least put it on your list for regular replacement. The one that failed would snap in half it was so brittle. I have been very lucky in that it looks like the carpet will live, and it has not changed color. I have bricks sitting on towels, and in a few days, it should draw out most of the oil. I hope you never have the experience, but this item is something to put out to people to thank you for everything the list has helped me diagnose and fix. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 (Currently with well oiled interior carpet) From spitlist at cox.net Mon Oct 6 19:13:51 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 18:13:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest Pictures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9FA6BEB205E64E478CE1C1C402F3657D@newcomputer> What a pity that only one Spitfire showed up. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Gunn Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 5:26 PM To: triumph list Subject: [TR] Triumphest Pictures Hi All - If you are curious, I have posted my pictures from Triumphest at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157607773846064/ I apologize for the pictures taken in the parking garage. The Saturday Funcourse was moved into the covered parking garage when the weather reports predicted rain and some snow. Unfortunately, the lighting was not very good. Sunday morning, the sky cleared and the sun came out for the group pictures. If you recognize someone's car, please note it under the picture, I'm sure we'd all like to know. Although I packed my sidescreens, duct tape, and rolls of plastic, I arrived Thursday evening before the storm came in, parked in covered parking during the storm, and left in the bright sunshine. Only got a couple of drops on the windshield, and none in my face; although, with the windchill factor, it was downright cold at speed with only the hardtop. Enjoy, David Gunn 1954 TR2 Coupe TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Mon Oct 6 19:13:47 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 21:13:47 EDT Subject: [TR] TR-3 Bottom Door Seal Message-ID: In a message dated 10/6/2008 1:24:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, AA00727 at aol.com writes: I am not certain about the positioning of the bottom door seal on my '62 TR-3. Could someone who is certain they have theirs located correctly please email a photo of it on their door? Thanks. I would like to see that as well. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Oct 6 19:23:34 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 21:23:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge Message-ID: In a message dated 10/6/2008 6:14:15 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: I hope you never have the experience, but this item is something to put out to people to thank you for everything the list has helped me diagnose and fix. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 (Currently with well oiled interior carpet) Craig, Sorry for your disaster. I recently had a bunch of new clothes get sprayed with gearbox oil (commercial gearbox). I talked to my local drycleaner and he assured me that dry cleaning would make them like new. It worked great. I would be tempted to take all the interior out, dryclean it, and re-install it. I would talk to my drycleaner first. Good luck Mike Moore **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 6 19:26:29 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 20:26:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge References: Message-ID: <001001c9281b$baac1e80$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> once i walked behind a car that was spraying oil out the exhaust. go-jo got it all out! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 8:23 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge > In a message dated 10/6/2008 6:14:15 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > > I hope you never have the experience, but this item is something to put > out to people to thank you for everything the list has helped me > diagnose and fix. > > Craig H. Nicholls > Vienna, VA > 1972 Triumph TR6 (Currently with well oiled interior carpet) > > > > Craig, > Sorry for your disaster. > I recently had a bunch of new clothes get sprayed with gearbox oil > (commercial gearbox). I talked to my local drycleaner and he assured me > that dry cleaning would make them like new. It worked great. I would be > tempted to take all the interior out, dryclean it, and re-install it. > I would talk to my drycleaner first. > > Good luck > Mike Moore From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Oct 6 19:59:31 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 21:59:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease Message-ID: <03b501c92820$5743b790$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> When I bought a tube of this dielectric grease, the auto parts guy said it "insulates the connection." Does this mean that if it's smeared on a metal surface, it will insulate that surface from making a connection 'thru it'? (Will it have to be wiped off first?) Thanks, Paul 60 TR3A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 940 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Mon Oct 6 20:15:08 2008 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 19:15:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Piece of Crap H2O Heater Valve Message-ID: <001b01c92822$85577430$90065c90$@rr.com> The water heater valve on the TR4-TR6 sucks. I've replaced three so far in the last 15 years. Yesterday, the last day of T-Fest, the morning was cold. We went home over Monitor Pass at 8700 feet, and the water heater valve wouldn't open by the controls on the dash. It got down to 24 degrees, and this So Cal boy and wife froze. But, what a view! Then, after stopping to open the bonnet and manually open the valve, it started leaking. Damn, only another 650 miles to go! We did make it home though. Anyway, enough of my ranting. By coincidence, during a trip to see Bill Harrah's Auto Museum in Reno (what a great car museum), Angus Murdoch, Dave Stauffacher and I talked about replacing the crappy valve with a industrial type ball valve and running a lever into the cabin to open and close it. Might even provide a better control of the heat. Has anyone done this? Do you have pictures? Johnnie in San Diego Finally warmed up, and glad to have made the 1600 mile round trip without a "major" incident. From DLylis at aol.com Mon Oct 6 20:18:51 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 22:18:51 EDT Subject: [TR] dielectric grease Message-ID: dielectric grease conducts and will help prevent corrosion which is the cause of all, most, many, some, electric failures in a TR. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From pethier at comcast.net Mon Oct 6 21:14:45 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2008 03:14:45 +0000 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease Message-ID: <100720080314.23589.48EAD42500034A6900005C2522165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: DLylis at aol.com > dielectric grease conducts It's not supposed to. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Oct 6 21:47:52 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 20:47:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease In-Reply-To: <100720080314.23589.48EAD42500034A6900005C2522165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <100720080314.23589.48EAD42500034A6900005C2522165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0810062047v3a2f9c18r426ee29d28eb5dd4@mail.gmail.com> Right. I think the idea is that it gets pushed out of the way where metal-to-metal contact occurs but fills in the various voids to prevent moisture and corrosion. Geo On 10/6/08, pethier at comcast.net wrote: > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: DLylis at aol.com >> dielectric grease conducts > > It's not supposed to. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 6 21:59:18 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 22:59:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease References: <100720080314.23589.48EAD42500034A6900005C2522165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000f01c92831$16b578b0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> A dielectric is a nonconducting substance, i.e. an insulator ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 10:14 PM Subject: Re: [TR] dielectric grease > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: DLylis at aol.com >> dielectric grease conducts > > It's not supposed to. > > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata > C-package, 79 Caterham 7 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 6 22:05:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 21:05:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Piece of Crap H2O Heater Valve In-Reply-To: <001b01c92822$85577430$90065c90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20081007040530.LGTT6349.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > talked about > replacing the crappy valve with a industrial type ball valve > and running a lever into the cabin to open and close it. An alternative might be to find a manual heater control valve from a 60s or 70s Chrysler product. Although some of them were specials, most were simple ball valves already equipped with 1/2" hose barbs and fittings for cable operation. A clever person could even locate the new valve under the dash, out of sight of concours judges. Or do what I did : Keep a heavy leather jacket, leather motorcycle gloves, and a wool lap robe in the car. (My heater has been sitting on the workbench for almost 20 years.) Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 6 22:07:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 21:07:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease In-Reply-To: <03b501c92820$5743b790$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081007040754.UDFZ19036.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does this mean that if it's smeared on a metal surface, it > will insulate that surface from making a connection 'thru > it'? (Will it have to be wiped off > first?) No, at least not in general. Although the grease does not conduct, it is relatively easily displaced from a connection. And the remaining grease serves to keep air away from the connection point, to prevent oxidation and corrosion. Randall From tr6 at pobox.com Mon Oct 6 22:08:12 2008 From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2008 23:08:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] Piece of Crap H2O Heater Valve In-Reply-To: <001b01c92822$85577430$90065c90$@rr.com> References: <001b01c92822$85577430$90065c90$@rr.com> Message-ID: <48EAE0AC.6030500@pobox.com> I don't mean to rub it in or anything... but I am still running on the original. :) John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > The water heater valve on the TR4-TR6 sucks. I've replaced three so far in > the last 15 years. > > > http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com -- It's true that love can change us But never quite enough Sometimes we are too tender Sometimes we're too tough If we get too much attention It gets hard to overrule So often fragile power turns To scorn and ridicule Sometimes our big splashes Are just ripples in the pool Feelings run high Neil Peart, "Emotion Detector", Power Windows (1985) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 6 22:10:24 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 21:10:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge In-Reply-To: <14532924.347851223342015721.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <20081007041024.LIIM6349.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > The oil line that drives the oil pressure gauge failed Which would seem to me an excellent reason to either convert to a steel line (as the TR2-3 used) or to an electric oil pressure gauge. Sorry to hear about your accident, Craig. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Tue Oct 7 05:17:35 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 07:17:35 EDT Subject: [TR] dielectric grease Message-ID: I stand corrected. My can of dielectric grease says "improves electric performance" which I interpreted to mean that it conducts and should be used sparingly. After rereading, the word insulates is also there, which, of course, means it doesn't. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Oct 7 06:19:11 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 08:19:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge Message-ID: <380-220081027121911849@M2W027.mail2web.com> As others have probably mentioned already, replacing it with a braided steel or copper is the way to go. After I had that happen I replaced mine with a copper one. If you use copper just make sure that you provide a service loop at each end to prevent it from work hardening from vibration  Ive had mine in for over twenty years without incident - Barry Schwartz Original Message: ----------------- Just to pass this on. On Friday, my wife and I were heading to lunch. The oil line that drives the oil pressure gauge failed at the gauge, and proceeded to insert 2 quarts of oil into my 1972 Triumph TR6. It was like a bad horror movie when the walls start to bleed. I have 3 year new tan Wilton wool carpet from TRF and now that I have used 7 rolls of paper towels (so far) and had a few days to recover, after throwing the stereo away and possibly 2 speakers, I wanted to pass on some advice. Please consider checking or replacing this item or at the very least put it on your list for regular replacement. The one that failed would snap in half it was so brittle. Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as v6spitfireguy at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 7 06:28:48 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 08:28:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease In-Reply-To: <20081007040754.UDFZ19036.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <03b501c92820$5743b790$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <20081007040754.UDFZ19036.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Back when I had my horn fail on the Grant steering wheel (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm) I called Grant and actually talked to one of their design engineers. The first thing he asked me was "what grease did you use on the horn ring?" None, I told him. Then he said that anytime you have metal to metal contact, it requires some sort of lube. I asked if I should use dielectric grease on the horn ring and he chuckled and said that all grease has dielectric properties and I could even use bearing grease........which I did and it still works fine two years later. So, if he was correct, what's unique about dielectric specific grease? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 12:08 AM To: 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] dielectric grease > Does this mean that if it's smeared on a metal surface, it will > insulate that surface from making a connection 'thru it'? (Will it > have to be wiped off > first?) No, at least not in general. Although the grease does not conduct, it is relatively easily displaced from a connection. And the remaining grease serves to keep air away from the connection point, to prevent oxidation and corrosion. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.6/1711 - Release Date: 10/6/2008 5:37 PM From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 7 06:53:10 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 07:53:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease References: <03b501c92820$5743b790$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><20081007040754.UDFZ19036.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <001501c9287b$bb4e0230$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> the label? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 7:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] dielectric grease > Back when I had my horn fail on the Grant steering wheel > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm) I called Grant and > actually > talked to one of their design engineers. The first thing he asked me was > "what grease did you use on the horn ring?" None, I told him. Then he said > that anytime you have metal to metal contact, it requires some sort of > lube. > I asked if I should use dielectric grease on the horn ring and he chuckled > and said that all grease has dielectric properties and I could even use > bearing grease........which I did and it still works fine two years > later. > So, if he was correct, what's unique about dielectric specific grease? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Randall > Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 12:08 AM > To: 'list Triumph' > Subject: Re: [TR] dielectric grease > >> Does this mean that if it's smeared on a metal surface, it will >> insulate that surface from making a connection 'thru it'? (Will it >> have to be wiped off >> first?) > > No, at least not in general. Although the grease does not conduct, it is > relatively easily displaced from a connection. And the remaining grease > serves to keep air away from the connection point, to prevent oxidation > and > corrosion. > > Randall > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Oct 7 07:02:35 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 09:02:35 EDT Subject: [TR] dielectric grease Message-ID: In a message dated 10/7/2008 5:54:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: So, if he was correct, what's unique about dielectric specific grease? My first thoughts go to temperature stability of silicon grease. If your axle grease gets hot, it gets thin. Oil separates out of grease over time leaving you with oxidized grease etc. Sometimes you just use what you have though I suppose. (I remember as a small child on a tiny island in the South Pacific, my Dad used olive oil for brake fluid in our family car- a Navy jeep.Its all he had.) Mike Moore **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From lherault at bu.edu Tue Oct 7 07:22:07 2008 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 09:22:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Go Jo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000f01c9287f$b305a8e0$a2d4299b@ad.bu.edu> The concept of this stuff is great. I use D&L, in a blue and white can. I find it in the supermarket. You want the kind without pumice for getting grease/oil out of clothing. Just rub it in, let it sit, wipe off the excess and launder normally. I also use it for cleaning the wood finish on antique phonographs. It does not hurt the wood or the shellac finish and gets a lot of crud off. You'd be amazed. Ron L From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Oct 7 07:55:07 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2008 09:55:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease References: <03b501c92820$5743b790$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <20081007040754.UDFZ19036.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <000f01c92884$5730a650$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> For all intents and purposes, greases don't conduct electricity worth a darn. Glob some on your points and see for yourself. That said, in the application of a horn ring, any grease would indeed work. Oem grease on horn rings seems to be bearing grease. It doesn't have to insulate, just lubricate a metal ring. Just about anything would work. Now as far as gooping up my computer CPU pins with axle grease, I'll pass on that. My understanding of dielectric grease specifically is a waterproof corrosion protector that won't short. That's all. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] dielectric grease > Back when I had my horn fail on the Grant steering wheel > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm) I called Grant and > actually > talked to one of their design engineers. The first thing he asked me was > "what grease did you use on the horn ring?" None, I told him. Then he said > that anytime you have metal to metal contact, it requires some sort of > lube. > I asked if I should use dielectric grease on the horn ring and he chuckled > and said that all grease has dielectric properties and I could even use > bearing grease........which I did and it still works fine two years > later. > So, if he was correct, what's unique about dielectric specific grease? From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Oct 7 08:41:36 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 08:41:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] Go Jo References: <000f01c9287f$b305a8e0$a2d4299b@ad.bu.edu> Message-ID: <72874BDB38B6467A8DE5E4F994359B1D@rolofson> I use GoJo to clean the grips of my golf clubs when I'm too lazy to replace them. Gets them clean and they have a tacky feel for awhile. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron L To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 7:22 AM Subject: [TR] Go Jo The concept of this stuff is great. I use D&L, in a blue and white can. I find it in the supermarket. You want the kind without pumice for getting grease/oil out of clothing. Just rub it in, let it sit, wipe off the excess and launder normally. I also use it for cleaning the wood finish on antique phonographs. It does not hurt the wood or the shellac finish and gets a lot of crud off. You'd be amazed. Ron L _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 7 09:46:14 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 08:46:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081007154614.OUWV16945.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > So, if he was correct, what's unique about dielectric > specific grease? I don't know that anything is "unique" about it. It's just optimized for certain types of service. As the name implies, it probably has a higher dielectric strength than 'ordinary' grease (meaning it is more difficult for a spark to jump through it). It also has a relatively low film strength, so it's easy to make a contact through it; but tends to cling to surfaces. Good thermal stability; low thermal resistance (conducts heat); good weather resistance. Don't know for sure, but I would guess that it also exhibits less leakage (higher electrical resistance) than lithium-based greases. And from what I've seen, it also doesn't dry out as much over time as at least older greases did. Just like the endless debate over trunnion fluifs, it's not so much that one is right and everything else is wrong. More a question of which is "better" (or even how to define "better") when they are all pretty good. BTW, there are conductive greases, but they have been deliberately made that way; usually by adding fine metal particles. Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Oct 7 09:57:35 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 10:57:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge References: <14532924.347851223342015721.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <3267C8ACD3044BFC90C7FCBD5BDB7E13@KARL> New lines or not, the one thing that will defniitely limit the damage if it ever breaks again is to put a restrictor at the place where it attaches to the engine. A plug inside the fitting with a very small drill hole through it will still allow pressure to be measured just fine, and if the line breaks you'll get a small stream but not a gusher. Aircraft do this - it's particularly important in flight because you can't just pull over onto a cloud if a leak occurs, and stains aside, you don't want to lose all your oil. Karl From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Oct 7 10:03:50 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 12:03:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph Frames In-Reply-To: <771731.17602.qm@web51904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <771731.17602.qm@web51904.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: >From a drive train and suspension standpoint...... Other than motor mounts is there much of a difference between TR6 and TR4A frames? Thanks, Marty Sukey _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Oct 3 21:25:13 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 23:25:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] tire rotation Message-ID: With modern tires and IRS, is it still advisable to rotate the tires? I'm interested not from a wear or longevity standpoint, but for continued handling and cornering performance. Thanks for your thoughts. Tom '76 TR6 From david.greed at wave.co.nz Sat Oct 4 01:51:28 2008 From: david.greed at wave.co.nz (David Greed) Date: Sat, 04 Oct 2008 20:51:28 +1300 Subject: [TR] tire rotation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1223106688.25885.12.camel@louie.greedsville.net> I have never rotated the tyres on my Triumphs (Saloons and Stag - all with IRS) - the tyres seem to wear evenly to the point where they all get replaced at the same time. More important is to ensure that the wheel alignment is correct (all four wheels), and the same with tyre pressures. Cheers DavidG 74 Stag Man O/D 79 2500S Man O/D On Fri, 2008-10-03 at 23:25 -0400, Tom Note wrote: > With modern tires and IRS, is it still advisable to rotate the tires? I'm > interested not from a wear or longevity standpoint, but for continued > handling and cornering performance. > Thanks for your thoughts. > > Tom > '76 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as david.greed at wave.co.nz > > http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Oct 4 15:48:00 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 14:48:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage Message-ID: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm curious about what people are using to drill out spot welds. I've been using regular drill bits (bought more expensive one at Sears which didn't help a whole lot) and I find they don't last long. I'm just wondering what others have found to work well. Do the special spot weld drill bits work well? Or are there more expensive regular bits that work just as well? Also does anyone know what guage steel tr-3 bodies are made of? I'll be needing to buy some replacement steel soon. thanks! gary n. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 4 16:13:26 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 18:13:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage In-Reply-To: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200810041813.27100.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 04 October 2008 17:48:00 Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm curious about what people are using to drill out spot welds. I've > been using regular drill bits (bought more expensive one at Sears which > didn't help a whole lot) and I find they don't last long. I'm just > wondering what others have found to work well. Do the special spot weld > drill bits work well? Or are there more expensive regular bits that work > just as well? > > Also does > anyone know what guage steel tr-3 bodies are made of? I'll be needing to > buy some replacement steel soon. > > thanks! > gary n. Gary, I used one of these along with liberal cutting oil. Worked nice. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14684&itemType=PRODUCT Bob From adcronin at ameritech.net Sat Oct 4 16:56:49 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 15:56:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Messed up rocker shaft stud holes Message-ID: <419877.77543.qm@web81304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Purchased a 4A head several months ago (mail) and just noticed that someone in the past has "chased" the stud holes with either the wrong tap (metric?) or otherwise. Has anyone had any experience using heli-coil in-certs in a situation like this or are there other methods? Is there enough room around the stud casting in the water jacket area to drill out for the next larger stud size? In addition, noticed that the back intake manifold stud hole appears to have been drilled out so it is open to the head stud. Any problem with this other than remembering that the intake stud needs to be loosened before trying to take out the head stud down the road? Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From dixie4.wales at virgin.net Sat Oct 4 17:36:36 2008 From: dixie4.wales at virgin.net (Dixie) Date: Sun, 05 Oct 2008 00:36:36 +0100 Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage In-Reply-To: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48E7FE04.7000103@virgin.net> I have tried the special spot weld drills but find that once blunt are impossible to sharpen. 1/4 " standard drill is best. When the edge goes it can be touched up on the bench grinder. Adrian TR4A CT64306 O Wales UK Gary Nafziger wrote: > I'm curious about what people are using to drill out spot welds. I've been > using regular drill bits (bought more expensive one at Sears which didn't help > a whole lot) and I find they don't last long. I'm just wondering what others > have found to work well. Do the special spot weld drill bits work well? Or > are there more expensive regular bits that work just as well? > > Also does > anyone know what guage steel tr-3 bodies are made of? I'll be needing to buy > some replacement steel soon. > > thanks! > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dixie4.wales at virgin.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sat Oct 4 18:33:36 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 17:33:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage In-Reply-To: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <567000.64961.qm@web59615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There is a special tool that is sorta like a very small hole saw that actually drills a hole in the panel around the spot weld and leaves the actual weld sticking up a bit without leaving any holes. All you have to do is grind it smooth and install the new panel. I got mine from an auto body repair store. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 2:48 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage I'm curious about what people are using to drill out spot welds. I've been using regular drill bits (bought more expensive one at Sears which didn't help a whole lot) and I find they don't last long. I'm just wondering what others have found to work well. Do the special spot weld drill bits work well? Or are there more expensive regular bits that work just as well? Also does anyone know what guage steel tr-3 bodies are made of? I'll be needing to buy some replacement steel soon. thanks! gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Sat Oct 4 20:22:39 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 22:22:39 EDT Subject: [TR] drilling out spot welds, steel guage Message-ID: Gary, As to the gauge of steel, I took a piece of my front wing to my local industrial supplier and was assured that it was 18 gauge. I had an unfortunate surprise that a rather large area of both front wings needed to be replaced. I knew there was some but in the end it was larger than the "patch pieces" the big 3 sell would handle. I used 18. Having said all that, if you are repairing much smaller areas, 20 is much easier to work and for smaller areas that's what I did. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 7 11:33:11 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 10:33:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumph Frames In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <995768.24289.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Marty, the major difference is that instead of an upper "t-shirt" section, the TR4A IRS frame has an arch in it's place. The trailing arms are different, in that the rebound bumper is mounted to the body instead of the T.A. as in the TR6. Raymond L. Hatfield --- On Tue, 10/7/08, marty sukey wrote: > From: marty sukey > Subject: [TR] Triumph Frames > To: "triumphs at autox.team.net" > Date: Tuesday, October 7, 2008, 11:03 AM > >From a drive train and suspension standpoint...... Other > than motor mounts is > there much of a difference between TR6 and TR4A frames? > > Thanks, > Marty Sukey > _________________________________________________________________ > Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows > Live. > http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 > F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as iron_horse819 at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From willgray at vaxxine.com Tue Oct 7 12:26:02 2008 From: willgray at vaxxine.com (David Willett and Carol Gray) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 14:26:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Heater Switch Message-ID: Somebody was looking for a heater switch? I have one to sell. Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 7 13:23:51 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 15:23:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] dielectric grease In-Reply-To: <000f01c92884$5730a650$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> References: <03b501c92820$5743b790$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><20081007040754.UDFZ19036.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> <000f01c92884$5730a650$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <5147995E064D4079B98CD555B0D6530D@bobspc> LOL..... I just ordered a new Motherboard, CPU, Memory & video card to do some major upgrade work on my PC........and the thought of using dielectric grease on the CPU pins has never crossed my mind for all of the PCs I've built over the years. There's a thermal compound you use between the CPU and the CPU fan but that's it. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Nolan Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 9:55 AM To: Bob Danielson; 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] dielectric grease For all intents and purposes, greases don't conduct electricity worth a darn. Glob some on your points and see for yourself. That said, in the application of a horn ring, any grease would indeed work. Oem grease on horn rings seems to be bearing grease. It doesn't have to insulate, just lubricate a metal ring. Just about anything would work. Now as far as gooping up my computer CPU pins with axle grease, I'll pass on that. My understanding of dielectric grease specifically is a waterproof corrosion protector that won't short. That's all. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] dielectric grease > Back when I had my horn fail on the Grant steering wheel > (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm) I called Grant and > actually > talked to one of their design engineers. The first thing he asked me was > "what grease did you use on the horn ring?" None, I told him. Then he said > that anytime you have metal to metal contact, it requires some sort of > lube. > I asked if I should use dielectric grease on the horn ring and he chuckled > and said that all grease has dielectric properties and I could even use > bearing grease........which I did and it still works fine two years > later. > So, if he was correct, what's unique about dielectric specific grease? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.6/1711 - Release Date: 10/6/2008 5:37 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 7 13:43:29 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 15:43:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal Message-ID: OK folks.......we're having a discussion over in the 6-Pack Forum on the correct way to install the felt seal that goes in the front hub next to the bearings. When I installed Uncle Jack's stub axles he specifically told me to install it with the felt pointing toward the vertical link/engine. One of the guys in the Forum quoted Bentley & Haynes that said the felt goes against the bearing. I emailed Tony Drews and Tony came up with Pros and Cons about doing it either way. A Forum member emailed TRF, Moss, BPN and a few other LBC places and got a split response of felt facing bearing and felt facing vertical link. Everyone agrees about oiling the felt prior to installation. We also know all about the benefits of Chicago Rawhide's seals so we're just focusing on the old fashioned felt ones that sit in a metal ring. So what say the broader range of Triumph folks here on the Mail List..... Felt facing the bearings or felt facing the vertical link? And is there a mechanical/safety/scientific etc reason to support it? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Tue Oct 7 13:57:24 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 15:57:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal References: Message-ID: <002201c928b6$eb6455b0$0300a8c0@Desktop> If Jack TOLD you to do it his way (you do it) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 3:43 PM Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal > OK folks.......we're having a discussion over in the 6-Pack Forum on the > correct way to install the felt seal that goes in the front hub next to > the > bearings. When I installed Uncle Jack's stub axles he specifically told me > to install it with the felt pointing toward the vertical link/engine. One > of > the guys in the Forum quoted Bentley & Haynes that said the felt goes > against the bearing. I emailed Tony Drews and Tony came up with Pros and > Cons about doing it either way. A Forum member emailed TRF, Moss, BPN and > a > few other LBC places and got a split response of felt facing bearing and > felt facing vertical link. Everyone agrees about oiling the felt prior to > installation. > > We also know all about the benefits of Chicago Rawhide's seals so we're > just > focusing on the old fashioned felt ones that sit in a metal ring. > > So what say the broader range of Triumph folks here on the Mail List..... > Felt facing the bearings or felt facing the vertical link? And is there a > mechanical/safety/scientific etc reason to support it? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 7 14:12:32 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 16:12:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal In-Reply-To: <002201c928b6$eb6455b0$0300a8c0@Desktop> References: <002201c928b6$eb6455b0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Message-ID: <8D3AE594C57C4D5CB96DDCCB77653714@bobspc> Oh I surely did......he told me how to do a lot of things relative to his stub axles but that was 2 years ago.......and now the same question is bouncing around in the Forum. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Craig [mailto:wensley_Tr at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 3:57 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'list Triumph' Subject: Re: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal If Jack TOLD you to do it his way (you do it) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 3:43 PM Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal > OK folks.......we're having a discussion over in the 6-Pack Forum on the > correct way to install the felt seal that goes in the front hub next to > the > bearings. When I installed Uncle Jack's stub axles he specifically told me > to install it with the felt pointing toward the vertical link/engine. One > of > the guys in the Forum quoted Bentley & Haynes that said the felt goes > against the bearing. I emailed Tony Drews and Tony came up with Pros and > Cons about doing it either way. A Forum member emailed TRF, Moss, BPN and > a > few other LBC places and got a split response of felt facing bearing and > felt facing vertical link. Everyone agrees about oiling the felt prior to > installation. > > We also know all about the benefits of Chicago Rawhide's seals so we're > just > focusing on the old fashioned felt ones that sit in a metal ring. > > So what say the broader range of Triumph folks here on the Mail List..... > Felt facing the bearings or felt facing the vertical link? And is there a > mechanical/safety/scientific etc reason to support it? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.6/1711 - Release Date: 10/6/2008 5:37 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 7 15:18:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 14:18:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081007211829.KGQA28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > When I installed Uncle > Jack's stub axles he specifically told me to install it with > the felt pointing toward the vertical link/engine. That's right. > One of the > guys in the Forum quoted Bentley & Haynes that said the felt > goes against the bearing. I would like to know the reference (page & version) for that; as I believe it must be a misinterpretation or misprint. I have a somewhat later version of the Haynes (copyright 1987) in my hands, chapter 11, section 2, paragraph 13 reads "Seat the grease seal on its spigot of the VL with the felt pad facing towards the centre of the car." There is even a diagram on page 196, Fig 11.2, that shows the steel backing plate for the felt separately, and closer to the hub than the felt itself. And that same sentence and diagram can be found in the Brooklands reprint of the Owners Workshop Manual (copyright 1993). > I emailed Tony Drews and Tony came > up with Pros and Cons about doing it either way. Well, to my mind, the overriding "Con" of doing it wrong is that the steel backing will rub against the steel face of the VL. The result is going to be noise, galling, eventually smoke ... not good things for front suspensions. But feel free to try it for yourself As long as we are on the topic (tho perhaps this has already been thrashed to death on 6-pack), I believe you should also set the bearing clearance BEFORE installing a new felt seal. Then mark the position of the nut (I use a Sharpie, but a center punch & love tap with a BFH would do fine) before disassembling to install the seal. The problem is that the new seals are thick enough to defeat the more common method (given in many tho not all manuals) of installing the seal first and then trying to set bearing clearance. The result of installing the seal first is that the bearing clearance (apparently) must be constantly readjusted for the first several hundred miles of operation, as the felt compresses and wears to it's final thickness. Setting the clearance first is in one of the Triumph factory manuals, tho I forget which one offhand. Randall From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 7 15:38:49 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 14:38:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <38593.49705.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Bob, A data point for you - on my 65 TR4A (which was off the road since 1980) when I disassembled the front end, the felt was against the vertical link. I believe this is how it was done at the factory and dealerships, since this was the lst place that serviced the car prior to it being 'retired' Raymond L. Hatfield --- On Tue, 10/7/08, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal > To: "'list Triumph'" > Date: Tuesday, October 7, 2008, 2:43 PM > OK folks.......we're having a discussion over in the > 6-Pack Forum on the > correct way to install the felt seal that goes in the front > hub next to the > bearings. When I installed Uncle Jack's stub axles he > specifically told me > to install it with the felt pointing toward the vertical > link/engine. One of > the guys in the Forum quoted Bentley & Haynes that said > the felt goes > against the bearing. I emailed Tony Drews and Tony came up > with Pros and > Cons about doing it either way. A Forum member emailed TRF, > Moss, BPN and a > few other LBC places and got a split response of felt > facing bearing and > felt facing vertical link. Everyone agrees about oiling the > felt prior to > installation. > > We also know all about the benefits of Chicago > Rawhide's seals so we're just > focusing on the old fashioned felt ones that sit in a metal > ring. > > So what say the broader range of Triumph folks here on the > Mail List..... > Felt facing the bearings or felt facing the vertical link? > And is there a > mechanical/safety/scientific etc reason to support it? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as iron_horse819 at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Oct 7 15:50:53 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2008 21:50:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal Message-ID: <100720082150.10472.48EBD9BC000CB90F000028E822007511500B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net> Having restored two TR3s in the past 5 years, I am with Randall here, only I stripped some of the felt off the seal on the advice of an old-timer who told me "they don't make 'em like they used to". And there was a lot of felt......... Andrew Uprichard -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > When I installed Uncle > > Jack's stub axles he specifically told me to install it with > > the felt pointing toward the vertical link/engine. > > That's right. > > > One of the > > guys in the Forum quoted Bentley & Haynes that said the felt > > goes against the bearing. > > I would like to know the reference (page & version) for that; as I believe > it must be a misinterpretation or misprint. I have a somewhat later version > of the Haynes (copyright 1987) in my hands, chapter 11, section 2, paragraph > 13 reads "Seat the grease seal on its spigot of the VL with the felt pad > facing towards the centre of the car." There is even a diagram on page 196, > Fig 11.2, that shows the steel backing plate for the felt separately, and > closer to the hub than the felt itself. > > And that same sentence and diagram can be found in the Brooklands reprint of > the Owners Workshop Manual (copyright 1993). > > > I emailed Tony Drews and Tony came > > up with Pros and Cons about doing it either way. > > Well, to my mind, the overriding "Con" of doing it wrong is that the steel > backing will rub against the steel face of the VL. The result is going to > be noise, galling, eventually smoke ... not good things for front > suspensions. > > But feel free to try it for yourself > > As long as we are on the topic (tho perhaps this has already been thrashed > to death on 6-pack), I believe you should also set the bearing clearance > BEFORE installing a new felt seal. Then mark the position of the nut (I use > a Sharpie, but a center punch & love tap with a BFH would do fine) before > disassembling to install the seal. > > The problem is that the new seals are thick enough to defeat the more common > method (given in many tho not all manuals) of installing the seal first and > then trying to set bearing clearance. The result of installing the seal > first is that the bearing clearance (apparently) must be constantly > readjusted for the first several hundred miles of operation, as the felt > compresses and wears to it's final thickness. > > Setting the clearance first is in one of the Triumph factory manuals, tho I > forget which one offhand. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Oct 7 16:06:19 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 18:06:19 EDT Subject: [TR] Go Jo Message-ID: In a message dated 10/7/2008 9:23:14 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, lherault at bu.edu writes: The concept of this stuff is great My Wife Beverly is a big wig @ GO JO Headquarters here in Akron, OH. A 23 year employee who practically runs the place all by herself. I have free bee stuff everywhere. Some people swear it is good for cleaning our vinyl TR seats too. I think I am soon going to retire and let her bring home the GO JO, HA! Cheers, Darrell **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Oct 7 17:08:32 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2008 23:08:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphest Pictures Message-ID: <100720082308.4062.48EBEBF00007070300000FDE22155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: David Gunn > Hi All - If you are curious, I have posted my pictures from Triumphest at: > > http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157607773846064/ David, Just want to thank you for the pictures. When I was doing my restoration, the thing that kept me going was Randall, Mr. Massey, and all the others on the list, ...and looking up pictures of what a TR3A would look like when I finished. Terry Smith '59 TR3A New Hampshire From adcronin at ameritech.net Tue Oct 7 18:49:10 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 17:49:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal Message-ID: <131237.89359.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I believe it should face the bearing. Reason being, its a seal. Supost to keep the grease inside the stub axle. If the metal faces the bearing, things migrate past it. My two cents. Dan Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: list Triumph Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2008 3:43:29 PM Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal OK folks.......we're having a discussion over in the 6-Pack Forum on the correct way to install the felt seal that goes in the front hub next to the bearings. When I installed Uncle Jack's stub axles he specifically told me to install it with the felt pointing toward the vertical link/engine. One of the guys in the Forum quoted Bentley & Haynes that said the felt goes against the bearing. I emailed Tony Drews and Tony came up with Pros and Cons about doing it either way. A Forum member emailed TRF, Moss, BPN and a few other LBC places and got a split response of felt facing bearing and felt facing vertical link. Everyone agrees about oiling the felt prior to installation. We also know all about the benefits of Chicago Rawhide's seals so we're just focusing on the old fashioned felt ones that sit in a metal ring. So what say the broader range of Triumph folks here on the Mail List..... Felt facing the bearings or felt facing the vertical link? And is there a mechanical/safety/scientific etc reason to support it? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Oct 7 19:26:24 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 20:26:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 panel lamp rheostat Message-ID: <2004904251BD4B5A95C9452855CA4B5F@KARL> My TR4 is a late commission number, and came with the wood dash, which should be correct. The PO removed the panel lamp rheostat and turned a wooden plug to full the hole, and then covered the whole dash with wood-grain fabric-backed vinyl wallcovering. Really. After removing the lovely wallcovering and discovering his customization, I ordered the Lucas rheostat from TRF. It's real Lucas, and the number matches that sold for TR4 thru TR6. Problem is, the threaded portion is at least 1/16" too short to extend through the thickness of the dash and leave threads for the bezel, even without the rear locknut and washer. It also appears that the wood dash stands off the metal panel behind by a little over 1/16" too. Before forcing and possibly bending the metal, maybe someone else has seen this ? Shouldn't the wood and metal panels be flush against one another, which would probably allow this thing to fit ? Thanks! Karl Vacek '16 Model T Ford Touring '40 Stearman PT-17 '46 Piper J-3 Cub '64 Triumph TR4 '78 MG Midget '99 Mustang Cobra convertible etc..... From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Oct 7 19:46:34 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 20:46:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 panel lamp rheostat CORRECTION References: <2004904251BD4B5A95C9452855CA4B5F@KARL> Message-ID: Upon further review, the gap was mostly an illusion, probably only 1/32" and readily pushed together. The threads on the switch are about 13/32" long, and the total construction of the steel and wood dashes is about 7/16" thick, leaving the threads 1/32" recessed, rather than standing out 1/16" or so to allow the bezel to thread on. The factory parts book shows a flat bezel like I have, but a "top-hat" style that goes through the dash a bit would work. What's going on ?? > My TR4 is a late commission number, and came with the wood dash, which > should > be correct. The PO removed the panel lamp rheostat and turned a wooden > plug > to full the hole, and then covered the whole dash with wood-grain > fabric-backed vinyl wallcovering. Really. > > After removing the lovely wallcovering and discovering his customization, > I > ordered the Lucas rheostat from TRF. It's real Lucas, and the number > matches > that sold for TR4 thru TR6. Problem is, the threaded portion is at least > 1/16" too short to extend through the thickness of the dash and leave > threads > for the bezel, even without the rear locknut and washer. It also appears > that > the wood dash stands off the metal panel behind by a little over 1/16" > too. > Before forcing and possibly bending the metal, maybe someone else has seen > this ? Shouldn't the wood and metal panels be flush against one another, > which > would probably allow this thing to fit ? > > Thanks! > Karl Vacek > '16 Model T Ford Touring > '40 Stearman PT-17 > '46 Piper J-3 Cub > '64 Triumph TR4 > '78 MG Midget > '99 Mustang Cobra convertible > etc..... From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Oct 7 20:22:12 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 22:22:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal Message-ID: In a message dated 10/7/2008 5:41:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, iron_horse819 at yahoo.com writes: data point for you - on my 65 TR4A (which was off the road since 1980) when I disassembled the front end, the felt was against the vertical link. ==AM== That has been my finding over many years on Mayflower, TR, Triumph 10/Standard Pennant, Herald, Spitfire, GT6 (never had the front hubs off my 2000). This makes me suspect that felt-to-link is what Standard-Triumph intended. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From AA00727 at aol.com Tue Oct 7 20:55:35 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 22:55:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Door seals Message-ID: Hi All, l am still looking for pictures or drawings or even a good description of the lower door seal location for a '62 TR-3? The middle part is obvious as there are holes for the metal clips. At the forward end there's another hole of the same size but set further inboard and part way up the vertical section of the inner panel, just below the mounting points for the lower door hinge, so if it is for the seal, the seal would be bending upward around the curve of the inner panel and away from the outer door skin. Where the rear portion should stop is even less obvious. The holes stop about 3-4 inches from the rear bottom corner of the outer door skin. Isn't that a rather large gap? I have had three other people ask me to forward any pictures I get as they are wondering the same thing. Thanks for any help you can provide! Gary B **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From AA00727 at aol.com Tue Oct 7 20:55:48 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 22:55:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Door seals Message-ID: Hi All, l am still looking for pictures or drawings or even a good description of the lower door seal location for a '62 TR-3? The middle part is obvious as there are holes for the metal clips. At the forward end there's another hole of the same size but set further inboard and part way up the vertical section of the inner panel, just below the mounting points for the lower door hinge, so if it is for the seal, the seal would be bending upward around the curve of the inner panel and away from the outer door skin. Where the rear portion should stop is even less obvious. The holes stop about 3-4 inches from the rear bottom corner of the outer door skin. Isn't that a rather large gap? I have had three other people ask me to forward any pictures I get as they are wondering the same thing. Thanks for any help you can provide! Gary B **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From CarlSereda at aol.com Tue Oct 7 21:04:04 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 23:04:04 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 panel lamp rheostat Message-ID: Karl, My own 'factory optional' wooden TR4 dash over the years has warped a bit and not a perfect flush fit everywhere against the original white steel dash. I don't think you'll be able to rectify easily. I guess you could oversize the steel dash hole and undercut the wood from behind to move the switch closer to wood surface. But what you might consider is putting a simple Lucas pull-switch there to operate a reverse light - the rheostat is pretty useless - the dash lights are not even bright enough in it's highest position! You can hide the rheostat (still wired in) up behind the dash board and put something usefull in its plac e like a back-up light switch - but you would need to find a deep enough pull/flip switch too - but might be easier and more useful. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Oct 7 23:36:06 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 23:36:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge References: <14532924.347851223342015721.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> <3267C8ACD3044BFC90C7FCBD5BDB7E13@KARL> Message-ID: <0BC7AF5B1A6241A2AD571E8E0721CA81@rolofson> If you don't have a plug with a drilled hole a rolled pin (from any good hardware store) works too. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Karl Vacek To: thenicholls at verizon.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2008 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge New lines or not, the one thing that will defniitely limit the damage if it ever breaks again is to put a restrictor at the place where it attaches to the engine. A plug inside the fitting with a very small drill hole through it will still allow pressure to be measured just fine, and if the line breaks you'll get a small stream but not a gusher. Aircraft do this - it's particularly important in flight because you can't just pull over onto a cloud if a leak occurs, and stains aside, you don't want to lose all your oil. Karl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 8 00:03:24 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 23:03:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Door seals In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081008060325.MDJY2525.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > At the forward end there's another hole of the same > size but set further inboard and part way up the vertical > section of the inner panel, just below the mounting points > for the lower door hinge, so if it is for the seal, the seal > would be bending upward around the curve of the inner panel > and away from the outer door skin. That's the way the pre-60K seal goes, so I'd guess that's correct for later cars as well. > Where the rear portion > should stop is even less obvious. The holes stop about 3-4 > inches from the rear bottom corner of the outer door skin. > Isn't that a rather large gap? Sorry, can't help there. My pre-60K door has holes to within 1/2" of the rear edge. However, these seals are only to stop water getting in the car, so perhaps no seal is needed at the rear of the door. When driving in the rain, there is some spray thrown upwards along the front of the door, by the front wheels and the air escaping from the engine compartment. But it doesn't seem to extend to the B-post area, so perhaps the factory just cut the seal short with the curved doors. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCF0035_reduced.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSCF0034_reduced.JPG] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 8 00:28:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 23:28:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal In-Reply-To: <131237.89359.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20081008062811.DSZZ19942.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Reason being, its a > seal. Supost to keep the grease inside the stub axle. Actually, the book is very specific. It's a dust seal, to keep dust out. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 8 00:30:17 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 23:30:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Front Bearing Felt Seal Message-ID: <20081008063017.UGLK28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Randall babbled : > Actually, the book is very specific. Sorry, I meant to say the earlier books called it a dust seal. The terminology was no doubt changed to reduce confusion (tho I must say it didn't help ) Randall From DLylis at aol.com Wed Oct 8 05:18:49 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 07:18:49 EDT Subject: [TR] dielectric grease Message-ID: In a message dated 10/7/2008 7:29:22 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: So, if he was correct, what's unique about dielectric specific grease? Apparently, the price. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Wed Oct 8 07:27:39 2008 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 15:27:39 +0200 Subject: [TR] For Dorpaul: Electric fan hookuo Message-ID: <004801c92949$a2a762c0$0500a8c0@Study> Sorry to bomb the list like this. Have twice had my reply to your query refused by your server. Please contact me offlist with another email adress. David Brister 1967 TR4A. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. SPAMfighter has removed 14782 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email From scott at sabutler.com Wed Oct 8 08:04:53 2008 From: scott at sabutler.com (Scott Butler) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 10:04:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Horn Repair - Lessons Learned Message-ID: <20081008140441.YYXB28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@sab6f9a2abea6d> After the list's help with my starter relay, I moved on to repairing a non-functional horn. Not a horn button/switch, but the horn itself. I documented the process in hopes that someone else might find it useful. http://www.sabutler.com/tr6hornrepair.asp So, if you've got a horn that doesn't blow, this might be just the thing to fill your idle hours. With best regards, Scott Butler c. 330-348-1619 Chagrin Falls, OH 1976 TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Oct 8 08:43:58 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 10:43:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Horn Repair - Lessons Learned In-Reply-To: <20081008140441.YYXB28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@sab6f9a2abea6d> References: <20081008140441.YYXB28641.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@sab6f9a2abea6d> Message-ID: Scott......very nice write up and pictures. It takes the fear out of pulling an unknown apart for repair! Just as an aside. If your horn is a Lucas 9H and you're not hung up on originality, you can get some serious money on eBay for a working 9H. I replaced my horns with more powerful ones about 1-1/2 years ago and sold my very used pair of working 9H horns for well over $100 on eBay and the winning bidder was thrilled. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Butler Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 10:05 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Horn Repair - Lessons Learned After the list's help with my starter relay, I moved on to repairing a non-functional horn. Not a horn button/switch, but the horn itself. I documented the process in hopes that someone else might find it useful. http://www.sabutler.com/tr6hornrepair.asp So, if you've got a horn that doesn't blow, this might be just the thing to fill your idle hours. With best regards, Scott Butler c. 330-348-1619 Chagrin Falls, OH 1976 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.6/1713 - Release Date: 10/7/2008 6:40 PM From flashtr3 at cox.net Wed Oct 8 11:51:43 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 10:51:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest Pictures References: Message-ID: <1E9EA1BD9D9E4447A97C518AB63789C7@DowKKXX5RXWD9> David, Thanks for posting the pics...it was great meeting you and putting a face to the email list. See you at Triumphest next year. Ibsen Dow TS35658LO 1959 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: David Gunn To: triumph list Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 5:26 PM Subject: [TR] Triumphest Pictures Hi All - If you are curious, I have posted my pictures from Triumphest at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/72157607773846064/ I apologize for the pictures taken in the parking garage. The Saturday Funcourse was moved into the covered parking garage when the weather reports predicted rain and some snow. Unfortunately, the lighting was not very good. Sunday morning, the sky cleared and the sun came out for the group pictures. If you recognize someone's car, please note it under the picture, I'm sure we'd all like to know. Although I packed my sidescreens, duct tape, and rolls of plastic, I arrived Thursday evening before the storm came in, parked in covered parking during the storm, and left in the bright sunshine. Only got a couple of drops on the windshield, and none in my face; although, with the windchill factor, it was downright cold at speed with only the hardtop. Enjoy, David Gunn 1954 TR2 Coupe TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Oct 8 13:14:22 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 15:14:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Piece of Crap H2O Heater Valve In-Reply-To: <48EAE0AC.6030500@pobox.com> Message-ID: What's frustrating is that only the little rubber diaphragm fails, not the rest of the valve. Just buzzing out a small pop rivet allows one to change the piece, without risking breaking the pipe trying the unscrew it from the head. Unfortunately I have never seen anybody selling just the rubber part. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 (on third valve) -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Steph Sent: October 7, 2008 12:08 AM To: John & Pat Donnelly Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Piece of Crap H2O Heater Valve I don't mean to rub it in or anything... but I am still running on the original. :) John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > The water heater valve on the TR4-TR6 sucks. I've replaced three so far in > the last 15 years. > > > http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com -- It's true that love can change us But never quite enough Sometimes we are too tender Sometimes we're too tough If we get too much attention It gets hard to overrule So often fragile power turns To scorn and ridicule Sometimes our big splashes Are just ripples in the pool Feelings run high Neil Peart, "Emotion Detector", Power Windows (1985) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 8 17:00:38 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 19:00:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] For Dorpaul: Electric fan hookuo References: <004801c92949$a2a762c0$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <04b201c92999$af4cc970$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> David, Sorry. I changed from dorpaul at negia.net to dorpaul at bellsouth.net and have done the necessary changes (I'm pretty sure) to have my email sent to the latter address. I will double check... thanks! I also received the needed wiring diagram (thanks again Bob!) for making it work, since the 'inquiry to the list' for help wiring up my Spal Relay Harness. It now works, but, without having properly 'installing" it yet. Thanks, Paul Dorsey ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Brister" To: Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 9:27 AM Subject: [TR] For Dorpaul: Electric fan hookuo > Sorry to bomb the list like this. > Have twice had my reply to your query refused by your server. Please > contact me offlist with another email adress. > > David Brister > 1967 TR4A. > > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. > SPAMfighter has removed 14782 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for home users. SPAMfighter has removed 940 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From boggiano at charter.net Wed Oct 8 17:41:41 2008 From: boggiano at charter.net (Thomas Boggiano) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 19:41:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] front lifing eye for TR4 engine Message-ID: <004001c9299f$6a1ceff0$6401a8c0@na01.crl.com> Hi All Does anyone have a front engine lifing eye that they would be willing to loan or sell me. I am at the point with the engine rebuild the it is ready to come off the stand, mount to the tranny and go back into the car and I dont want to hang the engine on the head bolts like I did when taking it out. Thanks Tom From banc8004 at comcast.net Wed Oct 8 18:09:54 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 20:09:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 panel lamp rheostat CORRECTION Message-ID: <9CBD65FA-34E5-49E1-803E-2549D13F0652@comcast.net> Karl, I imagine that your dash was an aftermarket part. I imagine the wooden plug is there because the PO that put the dash in couldn't get the rheostat to fit, just as you struggle. I would recess the dash from behind, just deep enough to give you the thread depth you need to mount the facia nut (0.25 inch?). This switch is not useless. Yes, the lights are dim. However, at night, running unlit country lanes, I've appreciated the opportunity to switch the dash to dark. If authenticity is important, remember that just as what happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas; what you do under your dash, stays with you. From Karl: The threads on the switch are about 13/32" long, and the total construction of the steel and wood dashes is about 7/16" thick, leaving the threads 1/32" recessed, rather than standing out 1/16" or so to allow the bezel to thread on. The factory parts book shows a flat bezel like I have, but a "top- hat" style that goes through the dash a bit would work. What's going on ?? From banc8004 at comcast.net Wed Oct 8 18:19:48 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 20:19:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 502 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5330ED5B-49F9-42EA-87B5-9E980B6D56CD@comcast.net> I bought and installed some 'economical' headlights for my TR4. They take modern H4 bulbs. They have started to suffer from a milky film on the inside of the lens. I recognise I need to upgrade these lights long-term. However, to help me out short-term, is there an effective way to remove this film? It is surprisingly stubborn. I have tried wiping around with a swab. While effective, the bulb mount severely limits access. I'm hoping for some cool, proven suggestion like 'swill with coke', or 'shake with rice' or 'chop up pencil erasers and roll them around'. Anyway, if someone has a neat, proven way to do this, I'd love to learn it. Thanks, Brian From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Oct 8 18:52:07 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 19:52:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 panel lamp rheostat References: <9CBD65FA-34E5-49E1-803E-2549D13F0652@comcast.net> Message-ID: After more consultation with TRF, it appears likely that the earlier part had longer threads - the current rheostat superseded another one that superseded the original, all many years ago. On metal-dash TR4's it was no problem anyway. On TR4A's, TR5/350's, and TR6's, the rheostat was moved to the center panel below the dash, where it's only thin metal. Only the wood-dash TR4's appear to have a conflict. Wood dashes on TR4's had originally been a factory option, but were apparently made standard at the end of TR4 production. Mine appears to be from the factory, it's in the right commission number range to have had a wood dash, and the metal behind it is indeed the metal that goes with a wood dash, as opposed to a metal dash that someone put wood over. They're obviously different, and the difference is simple to spot when the glovebox is open. And the DPO didn't want a rheostat - in fact he wired around all the original switches, using a toggle-switch panel below the dash. Glad he didn't throw anything else away (except the ash tray, which got the same wood plug treatment). Anyway, I've got to either find a good original rheostat, or make up an extension thread for the new rheostat I have. Geez I wish the old TV repair parts store was still here. If I can't find something standard to screw together (maybe a lamp parts supplier ?), I'll probably be spending some quality time with the lathe. Thanks! Karl > I imagine that your dash was an aftermarket part. I imagine the wooden > plug is there because the PO that put the dash in couldn't get the > rheostat to fit, just as you struggle. From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Wed Oct 8 19:41:39 2008 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 17:41:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 seat upholstery Message-ID: List folks, Was leather ever used for seat upholstery on TR4s? If so, what years did have leather? Thanks! From mathews at uga.edu Wed Oct 8 19:58:31 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2008 21:58:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 seat upholstery In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20081009015833.3467F18787B@autox.team.net> According to the original TR4 advertising document in 1961, leather was the standard and came in red, black, and blue your choice depending on the overall car color. Can't say how long that was standard though. Doug At 09:41 PM 10/8/2008, you wrote: >Was leather ever used for seat upholstery on TR4s? If so, what years did >have leather? Thanks! From DLylis at aol.com Wed Oct 8 20:30:13 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 22:30:13 EDT Subject: [TR] front lifing eye for TR4 engine Message-ID: Make one out of flat stock and use the front plate bolts on the left side, back side of the block casting. Drill a 3/8 hole in it and use a bolt through the chain. Do the same on the opposite side exhaust manifold stud, rear. Grind them up neat with a radius on top. File smooth and paint and they are neat and quite discreet. The lifting eyes had been long removed from my motor. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out! (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001) From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Oct 8 20:46:19 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 19:46:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] welding and seam sealer Message-ID: <961242.47509.qm@web59601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm curious about how people are welding down floors, or patching kick panels in footwells. specifically front footwell where often the bottom few inches are rusted through. Do most people weld 100% along the edges? Or spot/plug weld with spaces between the welds followed by seam sealer? same question on welding new floors in. are they welded completely 100% around the edge? If spaces between are allowed how big are those spaces. thanks! gary n. From don at napanet.net Wed Oct 8 21:39:30 2008 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Wed, 08 Oct 2008 19:39:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 seat upholstery In-Reply-To: <20081009015833.3467F18787B@autox.team.net> References: <20081009015833.3467F18787B@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20081008193320.02f58e38@pop.napanet.net> I'm looking at an early TR4, a '62. I plan to buy a TR4 (or 4a or 250) and I also wondered what was standard. I pulled out my old sales literature, and there it was! Two different sales brochures, one for early car and then a later TR4 with wood dash. The seat designs are different but the caption below say leather in both cases. Don Scott '62 MGA Mk II '73 MGB GT (for sale) TR4 (wanted) At 05:58 PM 10/08/2008, Doug Mathews wrote: >According to the original TR4 advertising document in 1961, leather >was the standard and came in red, black, and blue your choice >depending on the overall car color. > >Can't say how long that was standard though. > >Doug > >At 09:41 PM 10/8/2008, you wrote: > >Was leather ever used for seat upholstery on TR4s? If so, what years did > >have leather? Thanks! -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.7.6/1709 - Release Date: 10/05/2008 9:20 AM From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri Oct 10 15:15:17 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 15:15:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: <26E85058502542F288A818CBC76962E2@sniffer> Is this working?? No mail for the past three days. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From don at napanet.net Fri Oct 10 23:12:21 2008 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 21:12:21 -0800 Subject: [TR] Anyone in Cheyenne WY? In-Reply-To: <20080914182448.FWKL27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall > References: <20080914182448.FWKL27910.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20081010211012.02f523f0@pop.napanet.net> I keep looking for an old TR4 or 250. One just came up, a TR250, in Cheyenne WY. Is there anyone there that could check it out for me? I would pay you for your trouble. Thanks, Don Scott -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.8.0/1718 - Release Date: 10/10/2008 7:07 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 11 10:40:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 09:40:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 In-Reply-To: <3A8D6046A41646A8B71E8D94F47E7899@NEWOFFICE> Message-ID: <20081011164043.SCGH649.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Hi Tom : Welcome to the list, Tom. > My battery went totally dead so I purchased a new Sears > Diehard. After installation my 1974 TR6 started right up and > was charging at around 12.5-13 on the amp meter. 12.5-13 is not enough to charge the battery; and that's a voltmeter, not an ammeter. > How can I have a battery drain with no fuses in the fuse box? > Am I doing something wrong? Of course there should not be a drain with the fuses removed, so that is the problem you are looking for. On a TR6 there are quite a few items that are not protected by the fuses, so removing all the fuses does not remove power from everything. Since it sounds like your alternator is also not working quite right, I would be tempted to start by disconnecting it and seeing if the drain goes away. But there should be a junction block in the positive battery lead where you can disconnect other major portions of the car, to narrow down where the drain might be. Another place to check would be the anti-runon solenoid under the carbon canister, which gets unfused power whenever the ignition key is off. It's circuit is supposed to be interrupted by the oil pressure switch when the oil pressure falls off, but the switch may be defective or misconnected, etc. You might want to download the schematic for your car, from http://www.advanceautowire.com/schematics.htm Randall From mark at macysgarage.com Tue Oct 7 15:58:32 2008 From: mark at macysgarage.com (Mark Macy) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 14:58:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Grille moulding joint covers Message-ID: <777032.17552.qm@web81702.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Listers: The joint covers for TR3 grille reveal mouldings are ready: http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/other_tr2_3_parts.htm#TR3%20Grille%20 Moulding%20Joint%20Covers Thanks, Mark Macy Macy's Garage From photo at hctc.com Wed Oct 8 10:47:43 2008 From: photo at hctc.com (Dallas Blair) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 09:47:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRr-2 TR-3 Message-ID: <000601c92965$964b1af0$6400a8c0@AIRSTREAM> Private party 66yars old looking for TR-2 or TR-3 Small Mouth with Wires..Project okay but not major metal repairs...One car only....contact Dallas Blair photo at hctc.com From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Oct 10 16:47:35 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 18:47:35 EDT Subject: [TR] RATCO Chassis or Our TR Man in Yaphank Message-ID: List, Interstate I-80 provides me with a straight shot from Iowa to Long Island. So I did that last week. Right through NYC to Yaphank/Long Island. Tony's RATCO and LYNTRONICS Companies share space under roof at his beautiful Industrial Park building. Tony Vigliotti is the 'real deal'. I knew he was, but seeing what he is doing brought it all together. We have a couple of FOT guys using his Triumph frame as a platform for racing their TR4s in Vintage and they are very happy. Dan Cronin did a special order frame for his TR2 and it has some of the features of the TR6 front suspension. I stopped to see Dan in Detroit, and he is very happy, too. Tony has some new accessories and aftermarket modifications coming along. Keep an eye out for them. Pretty exciting stuff. I had to share. Joe A

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New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 11 12:43:40 2008 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:43:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stromberg Vacuum Ports In-Reply-To: <6CB7D22CC680407A9BF1FD013F8C9998@yourb27fb1c401> References: <48e59a8f.1917400a.419f.4951@mx.google.com> <6CB7D22CC680407A9BF1FD013F8C9998@yourb27fb1c401> Message-ID: <25EA024C-FDD3-4688-BB2C-5737DFD4C48B@sbcglobal.net> All, The single Stromberg carb I have on my car has the vacuum port on the bottom. Is this a port that will have vacuum at idle? or at speed? This carb is not original to my car. The distributor is original and I have an original Opus ignition that works, I'm just trying to figure out if this vacuum port will work with the stock vacuum retard unit. I currently have this disconnected and the timing set to 10deg Before TDC. Thanks for your help. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO From tr6 at pobox.com Sat Oct 11 12:44:04 2008 From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:44:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 In-Reply-To: <3A8D6046A41646A8B71E8D94F47E7899@NEWOFFICE> References: <3A8D6046A41646A8B71E8D94F47E7899@NEWOFFICE> Message-ID: <48F0F3F4.4050304@pobox.com> You're probably going to get a lot of advice on "the right thing to do." Let me just do the exact opposite. I have owned my 75 TR6 since 1983. I've had the exact same problem as you are describing. Add to this that there have been many times where the old girl has sit idle awaiting an engine rebuild, tranny rebuild or any of another hundred projects. And my battery drain always seemed to come and go -- so when I would break down and test -- I'd find nothing. So the wrong advice is this: 1. the next time you buy a battery, buy a boat battery. You have a huge battery box and there is almost nothing too big. Just find one with the CCA's you are looking for. Boat batteries have reinforcements on the plates and are less likely to warp. They are designed for the folks that drive their boats all summer and then let them sit idle all winter. 2. Buy a $9 battery cut off switch. When you pull into the garage, pop the hood and throw the switch. (I have not attended that many Triumph events, but the couple I've been to, I was amazed just how many people had a battery switch -- even during judging events.) I did this 5 years ago -- and never had a noticeable battery issue since then. (I still have one -- it's just not noticeable.) TOM BARILLA wrote: > I ran across your website while trying to find out information on how to test > for a battery drain while the car in off. > > My battery went totally dead so I purchased a new Sears Diehard. After > installation my 1974 TR6 started right up and was charging at around 12.5-13 > on the amp meter. > > Within 3 days this new battery also went completely dead. Absolutely nothing. > After charging it I ran some tests with a testing light. I disconnected the > negative lead from the battery, attached the testing light lead to the > negative battery post, took out one fuse at a time,and then touched the end > of the testing light to the negative lead. The testing light lit up. One by > one I disconnected every fuse and with no fuses in the fuse box the testing > light still lit up. From everything I have read this should not have happened > once all fuses were removed. > > How can I have a battery drain with no fuses in the fuse box? Am I doing > something wrong? > > Any advice you can give me will be greatly appriciated. > > > Tom Barilla > TJBARILLA at COX.NET -- http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com -- Leave out the fiction The fact is: This friction, Will only be worn by persistence Leave out conditions-- Courageous convictions, Will drag the dream into existence Neil Peart, "Vital Signs", Moving Pictures (1981) From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Oct 11 13:15:56 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 15:15:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 In-Reply-To: <3A8D6046A41646A8B71E8D94F47E7899@NEWOFFICE> References: <3A8D6046A41646A8B71E8D94F47E7899@NEWOFFICE> Message-ID: <8CAF9ECEAF22A35-1434-3854@webmail-mf08.sysops.aol.com> Hi, and welcome, I would take your FLAPS (Favorite Local Auto Parts Store) and ask them to hook up a charging system analyzer and let them tell me what the problem is.? I agree with Randall though, it will probably be your alternator.? Additionally, using the link to the wiring diagram I would just verify that the wires are connected to the right places. Please let us know what the solution turns out to be. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: TOM BARILLA To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 1:04 pm Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 I ran across your website while trying to find out information on how to test for a battery drain while the car in off. My battery went totally dead so I purchased a new Sears Diehard. After installation my 1974 TR6 started right up and was charging at around 12.5-13 on the amp meter. Within 3 days this new battery also went completely dead. Absolutely nothing. After charging it I ran some tests with a testing light. I disconnected the negative lead from the battery, attached the testing light lead to the negative battery post, took out one fuse at a time,and then touched the end of the testing light to the negative lead. The testing light lit up. One by one I disconnected every fuse and with no fuses in the fuse box the testing light still lit up. From everything I have read this should not have happened once all fuses were removed. How can I have a battery drain with no fuses in the fuse box? Am I doing something wrong? Any advice you can give me will be greatly appriciated. Tom Barilla TJBARILLA at COX.NET This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Oct 11 13:16:52 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 15:16:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 In-Reply-To: <8CAF9ECEAF22A35-1434-3854@webmail-mf08.sysops.aol.com> References: <3A8D6046A41646A8B71E8D94F47E7899@NEWOFFICE> <8CAF9ECEAF22A35-1434-3854@webmail-mf08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CAF9ED0D41BAED-1434-3859@webmail-mf08.sysops.aol.com> Hi, and welcome, I would take your FLAPS (Favorite Local Auto Parts Store) and ask them to hook up a charging system analyzer and let them tell me what the problem is.? I agree with Randall though, it will probably be your alternator.? Additionally, using the link to the wiring diagram I would just verify that the wires are connected to the right places. Please let us know what the solution turns out to be. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: TOM BARILLA To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 1:04 pm Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 I ran across your website while trying to find out information on how to test for a battery drain while the car in off. My battery went totally dead so I purchased a new Sears Diehard. After installation my 1974 TR6 started right up and was charging at around 12.5-13 on the amp meter. Within 3 days this new battery also went completely dead. Absolutely nothing. After charging it I ran some tests with a testing light. I disconnected the negative lead from the battery, attached the testing light lead to the negative battery post, took out one fuse at a time,and then touched the end of the testing light to the negative lead. The testing light lit up. One by one I disconnected every fuse and with no fuses in the fuse box the testing light still lit up. From everything I have read this should not have happened once all fuses were removed. How can I have a battery drain with no fuses in the fuse box? Am I doing something wrong? Any advice you can give me will be greatly appriciated. Tom Barilla TJBARILLA at COX.NET From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat Oct 11 13:51:49 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:51:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Seat Upholstery Message-ID: Hello List, I took my seats to an auto upholstery guy to have the TRF covers properly attached (with tacks!) today. I carried copies of the pages from Roger William's book, Ch 16, that shows how to do it. The comment/question is this: The book calls for wrapping the padding 2" over the top of the back, thus creating a lump across the top of the back of the seats. It seems to me this would be a little unsightly, but is this the correct way to upholster a TR3 seat? Anyone with a good picture of this process and how the finished cover looks? This PO just had a nice piece of foam on the back trimmed and tapered to fit perfectly inside of the perimeter. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Oct 11 15:21:08 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 16:21:08 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge Message-ID: <25080647.10384221223760068667.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Randall and the list, Always enjoy reading your responses, and I have learned a lot. Does anyone know who or who could produce a steel line replacement for this hose? I would be buying that in a second. Nothing in my garage to craft that item. By the way, stereo in the garbage. 10 rolls of paper towels wicking up the oil, no real damage to the carpet. I was advised by TRF and Mount Joy's to not under any circumstances use water on wool carpet. Some folks recomended a dry cleaner, but as most people say, they still use water in the process. Heading to the Hunt Country Classis here in Middleburg, VA tomorrow. Ordered a new stereo on Ebay to replace the one tha had 1/2 quart of oil in it, but I feel lucky. Thanks to everyone who responded to my post, much appreciated. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 On Tue, Oct 7, 2008 at 12:10 AM, Randall wrote: >> The oil line that drives the oil pressure gauge failed Which would seem to me an excellent reason to either convert to a steel line (as the TR2-3 used) or to an electric oil pressure gauge. Sorry to hear about your accident, Craig. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org B Triumphs at autox.team.net B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs B You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net B http://www.team.net/archive B From don at napanet.net Sat Oct 11 15:30:24 2008 From: don at napanet.net (don) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:30:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] battery discharging In-Reply-To: <8CAF9ED0D41BAED-1434-3859@webmail-mf08.sysops.aol.com> References: <3A8D6046A41646A8B71E8D94F47E7899@NEWOFFICE> <8CAF9ECEAF22A35-1434-3854@webmail-mf08.sysops.aol.com> <8CAF9ED0D41BAED-1434-3859@webmail-mf08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6.0.3.0.1.20081011131856.02f523f0@pop.napanet.net> (I changed the name of the thread, since I am straying from TR6 to TR8) >I had a battery discharge problem on a TR8 which I bought about 8 years >ago. This was an 18k mile original beauty of a car. Even with its low >miles and good condition, there were issues. One of them was that the >battery would discharge within a few days of parking the car. The prior >owner had put a disconnect switch on the battery which I would sometimes >forget to use, then find a no-start situation a few days later. One >evening I had gone to a friend's home, and parked in his driveway which >was slightly elevated. When I was going to go home, I happened to glance >at the rear of the car. I could see light around the edge of the trunk >above the license plate. Hmmm. Well, turns out the little metal piece >that is supposed to deactivate the trunk light when the lids is closed, >was bent slightly and never pushed the little switch button, so that the >lamp was always on. I bent it slightly, and that cured the problem. I >think that problem was with the car when it left the factory. Don Scott 1962 MGA Mk II 1991 Miata BRG 1973 MGB GT (needs new home) TR4 (wanted) >Aaron Cropley > >71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) > >http://www.triumphowners.com/108 > >2002 Mini Cooper S > >Topsham, Maine > > > > > > > > > > > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: TOM BARILLA > >To: triumphs at autox.team.net > >Sent: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 1:04 pm > >Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 > > > > > > > > > > > > > >I ran across your website while trying to find out information on how to test > >for a battery drain while the car in off. > > > >My battery went totally dead so I purchased a new Sears Diehard. After > >installation my 1974 TR6 started right up and was charging at around 12.5-13 > >on the amp meter. > > > >Within 3 days this new battery also went completely dead. Absolutely nothing. > >After charging it I ran some tests with a testing light. I disconnected the > >negative lead from the battery, attached the testing light lead to the > >negative battery post, took out one fuse at a time,and then touched the end > >of the testing light to the negative lead. The testing light lit up. One by > >one I disconnected every fuse and with no fuses in the fuse box the testing > >light still lit up. From everything I have read this should not have happened > >once all fuses were removed. > > > >How can I have a battery drain with no fuses in the fuse box? Am I doing > >something wrong? > > > >Any advice you can give me will be greatly appriciated. > > > > > >Tom Barilla > >TJBARILLA at COX.NET -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.8.0/1718 - Release Date: 10/10/2008 7:07 AM From richhalpern at verizon.net Sat Oct 11 15:39:29 2008 From: richhalpern at verizon.net (richhalpern at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 16:39:29 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Seat Upholstery Message-ID: <1197090287.1428041223761169767.JavaMail.root@vms124.mailsrvcs.net> Bill, Last year I recovered my early TR4 seats, which are pretty much the same. You do take the cotton batting, and flip it over the top of the seat by a few inches. This creates a flat and soft area athe the top. I actually rolled up some batting, flattened it out, thenhad it go about 3 inches to the fron, and three to the back of the seat top. I hope that helps. Regards, Rich Halpern 61 TR4 Lansdale PA Oct 11, 2008 02:52:15 PM, bill_beecher at flash.net wrote: =========================================== Hello List, I took my seats to an auto upholstery guy to have the TRF covers properly attached (with tacks!) today. I carried copies of the pages from Roger William's book, Ch 16, that shows how to do it. The comment/question is this: The book calls for wrapping the padding 2" over the top of the back, thus creating a lump across the top of the back of the seats. It seems to me this would be a little unsightly, but is this the correct way to upholster a TR3 seat? Anyone with a good picture of this process and how the finished cover looks? This PO just had a nice piece of foam on the back trimmed and tapered to fit perfectly inside of the perimeter. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net htt p://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as richhalpern at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 11 16:01:58 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 17:01:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] restoration from hell Message-ID: <001401c92bec$fd266d40$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> well, thought i would post a couple of pictures. its been a long, sad story, but it's starting to look like a car!!!! btw its a small mouth - TS13796 L O (the "O" was added!) it's an early disk brake car. http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/DSCN3320.JPG http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/DSCN3321.JPG http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr3/DSCN3322.JPG From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Oct 11 16:46:12 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 18:46:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge Message-ID: In a message dated 10/11/2008 2:22:52 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: Thanks to everyone who responded to my post, much appreciated. After reading of your misfortune, several days later I took my car out for a drive. About two miles out, I noticed oil dripping onto my shoes. I stopped to investigate and found an awful mess. I had removed the instrument panel had disconnected the flex hose under the bonnet then failed to reconnect it. The battery box was full of oil, the area behind the master cylinders was full of oil etc.The flolor mats had oil piled up on them. I drove the car home after finger tight reconnecting the hoses. There was a trail of oil all; leading the way back to my house. Mike Moore **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From ebartle at hbci.com Sat Oct 11 19:05:08 2008 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 20:05:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3A Locks Up Message-ID: <20081011200508.58wno31c084k4gsg@mail.hbci.com> recently restored TR3A. The problem: The TR binds up when pushed backwards, or many times when backing up, when backing up it break loose and drive. When the car is off and in neutral I can roll it forward, but not backward. I have had a transmission person look at it, local mechanic, and a foreign car mechanic who replaced the rear brakes hoping that would solve it. Any suggestions on how to solve the problem or for a mechanic who cold help me out. We live in Winona, MN From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Oct 11 19:21:41 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 21:21:41 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Locks Up Message-ID: In a message dated 10/11/2008 8:06:20 PM Central Daylight Time, ebartle at hbci.com writes: > recently restored TR3A. The problem: The TR binds up when pushed > backwards, or many times when backing up, when backing up it break > loose and drive. When the car is off and in neutral I can roll it > forward, but not backward. I have had a transmission person look at > it, local mechanic, and a foreign car mechanic who replaced the rear > brakes hoping that would solve it. > Any suggestions on how to solve the problem or for a mechanic who > cold help me out. We live in Winona, MN > Does your car have overdrive? That sounds like the overdrive clutch sticking. There is a pretty active club in Minneapolis, I'm sure someone there can recommend someone. Dave St. Louis ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 11 19:28:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 18:28:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Locks Up In-Reply-To: <20081011200508.58wno31c084k4gsg@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <20081012012841.BLTJ25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > The problem: The TR binds up when pushed > backwards, or many times when backing up, Does it have overdrive ? Can the problem be reproduced on a lift ? If so, try disconnecting the driveshaft to divide the problem between transmission and differential. Then most likely whichever unit has the problem is going to need to come apart. One other long shot : try cracking a bleed valve on a rear brake cylinder and see if the problem disappears until the next time you step on the brake pedal. Doesn't really fit the symptoms, but you might have a bad flexible line that acts like a check valve and holds pressure in the rear brakes. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 11 19:37:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 18:37:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] battery discharging In-Reply-To: <6.0.3.0.1.20081011131856.02f523f0@pop.napanet.net> Message-ID: <20081012013738.MPLF18245.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> My strangest "dead battery" story was a German car, my daily driver at the time. Usually worked absolutely perfectly, but every once in a while I'd come out to find the battery dead in the morning. Might happen twice in the same week, then not again for months. Then one day I walked by the parked car, and saw the heated rear window indicator on! Turned out that the relay for the rear window heater had gotten salt spray or something onto the bakelite base, and under just the right conditions of dew condensing, there was enough leakage from the always-hot power terminal to the switched coil terminal to activate the relay! A new relay solved the problem. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 11 19:41:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 18:41:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stromberg Vacuum Ports In-Reply-To: <25EA024C-FDD3-4688-BB2C-5737DFD4C48B@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <20081012014108.VDUM2525.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > The single Stromberg carb I have on my car has the vacuum > port on the bottom. Is this a port that will have vacuum at > idle? or at speed? Should be a retard port. The advance port on ZS carbs is on the top. But it's easy enough to check, just hook up a line and see if it has vacuum at idle. If you don't have a vacuum gauge, just hold your finger over the end of the line for a second, then see if it pulls at your finger as you pull it away. > I currently have this disconnected and the timing set to > 10deg Before TDC. Personally, I'd leave it that way. The vacuum retard wastes fuel and increases CO2 emissions; which seem to me to be more serious problems than any slight reduction in CO and HC it might provide. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Oct 11 21:32:39 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 23:32:39 EDT Subject: [TR] Newly rebuilt TR3A motor Message-ID: I had my newly rebuilt motor out on the road for the first time today. All is well. After about 8 hours in the garage a significant oil drip appeared under the vent tube. I am certain that is the source. The motor has an alloy valve cover without the breather vent as the stock one has. It has the sealed fill cover with the very tiny vent hole. Does anyone know if I can get a breather cover for this type of valve cover, and, is this expected to improve as the rings seat? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Sun Oct 12 01:10:58 2008 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 09:10:58 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3A Locks Up References: <20081011200508.58wno31c084k4gsg@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <00e201c92c39$ad67aa60$0500a8c0@Study> It might be useful if I share my very recent experience after taking my TR4A for it'sofficial biennial roadworthiness check. I too found the car reluctant to go backwards. I suspected rear drums binding in some way but they were perfect. Then I realised the overdrive was clicking when I turned on the ignition. Overdrive was permanently engaged. I sat down with the wiring diagram and realised the only thing could be a short to ground between the relay and the overdrive switch. All was well with the relay and the wiring there so I opened the cover on the steering column and looked at the overdrive switch. Wth o/d switch free the fault disappeared. It seems the examiner whilst looking for the dipswitch or the indicator switch had given the o/d switch (perhaps all the switches) a hard yank thus turning it towards the indicator switch so that the live yellow green wire was touching ground. Incidentally despite my fears, the o/d came to no harm in spite of several trial runs backwards during investigations. David Brister 1976 TR4A -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. SPAMfighter has removed 14975 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Oct 12 05:28:47 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 07:28:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: <00e201c92c39$ad67aa60$0500a8c0@Study> References: <20081011200508.58wno31c084k4gsg@mail.hbci.com> <00e201c92c39$ad67aa60$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: My wife and I took the car out yesterday to see the New England fall colors and ended up driving 330 miles through Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Vermont. Stopped four times (Gas, McDonalds, pitstop and the Vermont Country Store). A total of seven people stopped to talk about their associations with Triumph cars. Lots of grinning kids with faces pressed to the windows as we drove there and back. Temperatures in the high 60s. Car ran beautifully. Enough to take one's mind off the concerns of this world for a while. Andrew Uprichard TR3B relaxing after a 330 mile run TR3A ready for paint From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sun Oct 12 05:55:34 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 07:55:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: References: <20081011200508.58wno31c084k4gsg@mail.hbci.com> <00e201c92c39$ad67aa60$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <48F1E5B6.5080808@earthlink.net> Lucky man. We had 88 degrees and thunderstorms. Didn't dare take the car out for fear of getting rear ended by a cell-phone using, latte sipping moron sliding through intersection! Andrew Uprichard wrote: > My wife and I took the car out yesterday to see the New England fall colors > and ended up driving 330 miles through Massachusetts, New Hampshire and > Vermont. Stopped four times (Gas, McDonalds, pitstop and the Vermont > Country Store). A total of seven people stopped to talk about their > associations with Triumph cars. Lots of grinning kids with faces pressed to > the windows as we drove there and back. > > Temperatures in the high 60s. Car ran beautifully. Enough to take one's > mind off the concerns of this world for a while. > > Andrew Uprichard > TR3B relaxing after a 330 mile run > TR3A ready for paint > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From scott at sabutler.com Sun Oct 12 08:09:46 2008 From: scott at sabutler.com (Scott Butler) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 10:09:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Message-ID: <20081012140943.WBUZ16945.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@sab6f9a2abea6d> Hi Tom, My 1975 TR6 had a battery that would drain in 1-2 weeks and the problem was that a PO had attached WO (white orange) leads to the wrong terminal on the starter solenoid. In my car, there was also other foolishness downstream which is why making an email diagnosis from a schematic is a dicey proposition -- one can't assume that the rest of the system hasn't been Fouled Up Beyond All Recognition. IMHO, step 1 in any TR6 electrical troubleshooting is to buy Dan Masters' book, unless you're already an electrical wiz. (I haven't seen anyone else suggest this, so I hope I'm not repeating a previous post.) His book has enabled me to confidently solve my TR6's electrical problems instead of scaring myself with sparks, smoke, and melted insulation. It's $35.00 including shipping to the US and is available at http://members.aol.com/danmas6/. This is a lot cheaper than a battery and will probably enable you to put a lot of other things right. It is a fantastic book: a worthy, I would say required, companion to the Haynes workshop manual. Scott A. Butler Chagrin Falls, OH 75 TR6 CF51136 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Oct 12 08:32:31 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 14:32:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge In-Reply-To: <25080647.10384221223760068667.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> References: <25080647.10384221223760068667.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: Look for a hose shop in your area and have them build a steel braid line for you. Best regards,Tom ---------------------------------------- _________________________________________________________________ Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live. From Chip19474 at aol.com Sun Oct 12 08:34:48 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 10:34:48 EDT Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Message-ID: Tom, Try attacking the problem from the positive side of the battery versus negative. Generally, previous owners will, over time, connect add-on accessories to the positive battery post or downstream from where the positive battery voltage begins its journey throughout the wiring system. I've seen "accessories" tapped onto the positive lug of the starter motor; it's very common to see accessories tapped onto the "hot always" spades at the fuse box - some of these accessory wires are fused separately under the dash before reaching the device they're intended for. If you find any add-on wiring anywhere in the positive battery terminal wiring path or coming off of the "hot always" side of the fuse box, start removing the leads one-by-one to isolate the voltage drain. Use your multimeter on the amps scale between the negative battery post and ground....you're looking for current (amps) drain not necessarily volts to light a lamp. I have a modern radio/CD player in my TR6 with an "always hot" clock circuit. My battery current drain with motor/ignition off is in the milliamp range. Check your radio, door courtesy lights, trunk lights, after market under bonnet lights, etc that may be staying on after you shut the motor off. You should not have to resort to removing the negative battery cable or using a cutoff switch whenever you park the car in your garage! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 10/11/2008 12:19:06 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TJBARILLA at COX.NET writes: One by one I disconnected every fuse and with no fuses in the fuse box the testing light still lit up. From everything I have read this should not have happened once all fuses were removed. **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From Chip19474 at aol.com Sun Oct 12 08:47:50 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 10:47:50 EDT Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: Andrew, My wife and I just returned from 5 days in Sugar Hill, NH visiting friends....it was a 9 hour trip for us from home and I honestly can say that I'm glad we did the trip in the Camry rather than the TR6 (comfort, 38mpg, etc) BUT I really, really wish we had the TR6 when we got there!!! The foliage was spectacular and I believe that Mt Washington got a dusting of snow. We only saw one Brit car during our trip.....a green TR6 with a roll bar, top down cruising down the main street of Franconia, NH one evening. We were walking to a small eatery off the road from where we parked when I heard the 6 but by the time I could turn around and yell hello (my wife and friends understand these outbursts when my ears detect a TR!!), the gent had drive past us. Cheers to you guys in the north country - the air is pure, the lakes are clean and the fall colors are just amazing. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 10/12/2008 7:30:29 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: to see the New England fall colors and ended up driving 330 miles through Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Vermont. **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Oct 12 09:16:29 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 11:16:29 EDT Subject: [TR] 1974 TR6 Message-ID: In a message dated 10/12/2008 9:09:56 AM Central Daylight Time, scott at sabutler.com writes: > IMHO, step 1 in any TR6 electrical troubleshooting is to buy Dan > Masters' > book, I would go one step further and say that his book is very useful troubleshooting ANY car. The schematics in the back may be TR6 but the other schematics are available on line. And the electrons work the same way in all cars. Dave ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Oct 12 13:04:25 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 15:04:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: References: <20081011200508.58wno31c084k4gsg@mail.hbci.com><00e201c92c39$ad67aa60$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <9E8B438905D641AE971288C468CC635E@BOBSNEWPC> I bet the colors were spectacular and the leaf peeper traffic moved slowly. It always amazes me what big business fall leaves are for New England businesses. Rooms are impossible to come by and very expensive when the leaves start changing. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 7:29 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR joys My wife and I took the car out yesterday to see the New England fall colors and ended up driving 330 miles through Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Vermont. Stopped four times (Gas, McDonalds, pitstop and the Vermont Country Store). A total of seven people stopped to talk about their associations with Triumph cars. Lots of grinning kids with faces pressed to the windows as we drove there and back. Temperatures in the high 60s. Car ran beautifully. Enough to take one's mind off the concerns of this world for a while. Andrew Uprichard TR3B relaxing after a 330 mile run TR3A ready for paint This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From mathews at uga.edu Sun Oct 12 13:13:17 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 15:13:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] BMIHT Production record for TCF/310L Message-ID: <20081012191321.CBBFD1878A8@autox.team.net> List, Going through some of my "stuff" I've come across the production record for this TR3B, build date 29 May 62 and "dispatched" on 4 June 62 to New Jersey. Anyone of yall own this car? I'm looking to find the home for the production record. Thanks Doug p.s. Engine# was TCF353-E and body was TSF/840 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Oct 12 14:40:56 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 14:40:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge In-Reply-To: <14532924.347851223342015721.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> References: <14532924.347851223342015721.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <48F260D8.8090104@tscusa.org> thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: > Just to pass this on. On Friday, my wife and I were heading to lunch. > The oil line that drives the oil pressure gauge failed at the gauge, and > proceeded to insert 2 quarts of oil into my 1972 Triumph TR6. It was > like a bad horror movie when the walls start to bleed. > > Fortunately it opened in the passenger compartment. When they break at the block connection, you learn about it when your rods start knocking and the bearings start spinning. A popular conversion is replacing the old poly line using copper line, and the second popular conversion is to replace the line and gauge with a sending unit and electric gauge. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 12 15:44:37 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 16:44:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge References: <14532924.347851223342015721.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> <48F260D8.8090104@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <001701c92cb3$bafcfd40$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> this is supposedly a true story . . . . fellow had a tr3, back in the day. didn't like the gage, so replaced it a much "cooler" aftermarket gage. went to pick his date up, for the prom!!! was admiring the gage, when he noticed the pressure dropping way off. meanwhile, she was screaming hysterically. yeah - oil on the dress they didn't make it to the prom and she never went out with him again . . . From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Oct 12 16:18:21 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 22:18:21 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: <101220082218.28701.48F277AD000EA5D40000701D22165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Cheers to you guys in the north country - the air is pure, the lakes are > clean and the fall colors are just amazing. > Chip Krout Thank you, Chip. Where else can you commute to work in a TR3A with the top down, and spend 8 splendid seconds driving underneath a bald eagle flying 20 yards above your head. Or scaring your 12 year old son silly by stopping to admire a black bear trudging across the road in front of you in your driveway. Or the moose eating apples from your trees. Then again, I80 through PA is a thing of beauty too. Wish I hadn't had a top up the several times I made the trip. Hope you stopped at the state liquor stores and went through the tolls. We state workers need a raise! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From tedtsimx at bright.net Sun Oct 12 17:27:06 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 19:27:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge In-Reply-To: <48F260D8.8090104@tscusa.org> References: <14532924.347851223342015721.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> <48F260D8.8090104@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <48F287CA.8050005@bright.net> Another option is we build you a stainless steel braid line. Ted Glenn A. Merrell wrote: > thenicholls at verizon.net wrote: >> Just to pass this on. On Friday, my wife and I were heading to >> lunch. The oil line that drives the oil pressure gauge failed at the >> gauge, and proceeded to insert 2 quarts of oil into my 1972 Triumph >> TR6. It was like a bad horror movie when the walls start to bleed. >> >> > Fortunately it opened in the passenger compartment. > > When they break at the block connection, you learn about it when your > rods start knocking and the bearings start spinning. > > A popular conversion is replacing the old poly line using copper line, > and the second popular conversion is to replace the line and gauge > with a sending unit and electric gauge. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.8.0/1719 - Release Date: 10/10/2008 4:08 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Oct 12 18:15:47 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 20:15:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: <101220082218.28701.48F277AD000EA5D40000701D22165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <48F25AF3.31372.1E9A58E5@localhost> On 12 Oct 2008 at 22:18, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Where else can you commute to work in a TR3A with the top down, > and spend 8 splendid seconds driving underneath a bald eagle > flying 20 yards above your head. Sigh. I've been unable to take either car out this weekend. Our band was booked for gigs Saturday and Monday. Today (Sunday) we took the canoe out the Nashua River and watched a broad-wing hawk fly 20 yards over our heads. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From pethier at comcast.net Sun Oct 12 20:44:49 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 02:44:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: <101320080244.29376.48F2B621000925D7000072C022155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Jim Muller" > Sigh. I've been unable to take either car out this weekend. Our > band was booked for gigs Saturday and Monday. Today (Sunday) we took > the canoe out the Nashua River and watched a broad-wing hawk fly 20 > yards over our heads. You don't need a canoe for bird study. We were out with the Minnesota Austin-Healey Club on their Color Tour yesterday. From the open TR4, we were watching two bald eagles in flight. Then Sue got a much closer look at a ring-necked pheasant which flew up to the right side of the car. Sue said she could have caught him by hand and cooked him at the bonfire that followed the tour. Fantastic weather for the tour and bonfire in western Wisconsin. Our trip back to The Cities was marked by running in the rain with the top off. TR44SUE is resting in the shop with many fans running now. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From thenicholls at verizon.net Sun Oct 12 20:48:01 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 21:48:01 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Catastrophic oil line failure for oil pressure gauge Message-ID: <29405322.11571331223866081150.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Glad the lady with me was coming up on her 19th anniversary.......Craig On Sun, Oct 12, 2008 at 5:44 PM, Oliver wrote: > this is supposedly a true story . . . . fellow had a tr3, back in the day. didn't like the gage, so replaced it a much "cooler" aftermarket gage. went to pick his date up, for the prom!!! was admiring the gage, when he noticed the pressure dropping way off. meanwhile, she was screaming hysterically. yeah - oil on the dress they didn't make it to the prom and she never went out with him again . . . This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org B Triumphs at autox.team.net B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs B You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net B http://www.team.net/archive B From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Oct 13 06:12:22 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 08:12:22 EDT Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: Bob, Not this fall! We found many vacancy signs in front of New Hampshire Inns and many restaurant owners we spoke to said that business is off this fall including a very popular breakfast spot near where we stayed in Sugar Hill, NH - Polly's Pancake House. This would have been a great time for a TR Club to do a fall getaway to New England....good deals, fewer cars on the road and reasonable fuel prices. Chip In a message dated 10/12/2008 3:05:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Rooms are impossible to come by and very expensive **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From eoot at citlink.net Mon Oct 13 06:52:54 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 08:52:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick Message-ID: <009901c92d32$9c87a5c0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Listers, Need some thoughts on this one. The problem: An annoying loud tick sound when the car is under load( Could it be a ping? Is one man's tick another man's ping?) I digress. Ignition is utilizing Pertronix Attempted solution: I have messed with the timing in an effort to elimiante of decrease the problem to no avail. This includes setting the timing using various methods including but not limited to: 1)rotating the dizzy to the fast RPM, road tesing and then adjusting vernier. 2) Timing light. Tried various settings based on timing light reading. 3) Set #1 to TDC on compression stroke and then set static using multimeter to determine firing. Use vernier to change advance. All of the above is to no avail. I have ruled out valve clatter as I only hear it under load (is this a safe assumption?) I believe that this started after I played with the timeing a bit in an attempt to improve performance. Thoughts please TIA Ed From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Oct 13 07:09:43 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 09:09:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wow...... I guess that a sign of our lousy economic times....despite lower gas prices and the best foliage colors in years.....there were rooms available. Oh well, we're off to the western hills of CT for a day trip tomorrow. It's supposed to be 75 and sunny. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chip19474 at aol.com Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:12 AM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; auprichard at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR joys Bob, Not this fall! We found many vacancy signs in front of New Hampshire Inns and many restaurant owners we spoke to said that business is off this fall including a very popular breakfast spot near where we stayed in Sugar Hill, NH - Polly's Pancake House. This would have been a great time for a TR Club to do a fall getaway to New England....good deals, fewer cars on the road and reasonable fuel prices. Chip In a message dated 10/12/2008 3:05:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Rooms are impossible to come by and very expensive **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Oct 13 10:33:25 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 09:33:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Arrrgghhh Message-ID: It seems that "stupid is as stupid does", I lost my dzus coach key for Casper at Triumphest, it was one of the "originals" ie straight handle (no bumps) and actually fits the fasteners as it should. An exhaustive search for a replacement only turns up the after market ones ... If anyone has and extra good one, or knows of a source it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Oct 13 11:08:28 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 13:08:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZDDP availability???????????????? Message-ID: <095601c92d56$509acf10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I was told that our older cars (without cat. converters) needed ZDDP. Several oil labels mentioned having this including: Valvoline 20w-50 Racing Oil, (I think) Rotella Diesel Oils, etc. I was also told about STP Red label but cannot find it locally. Then I read somewhere that it didn't have that much zddp. Maybe http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=47699 0&fpart=1 I was then told about "GM E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant", part # 1052367. Gr 8.800. and locally I called the Cadallac dealer who said it was discontiued several years ago, but, might be coming back. The chevy dealer has some at $21.00 This additive is also in valvoline's synpower oil, and other synthetics, but, I wish to avoid synthetics for break-in. Ebay doesn't show it, does anyone know where I can get it for less than $21 ?????????? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email From pethier at comcast.net Mon Oct 13 11:43:10 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 17:43:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] Arrrgghhh (Dzus key) Message-ID: <101320081743.28454.48F388AE00085AC000006F2622147564029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Bill & AnnaBelle > It seems that "stupid is as stupid does", I lost my dzus coach > key for Casper at Triumphest, it was one of the "originals" ie > straight handle (no bumps) and actually fits the fasteners as it > should. > An exhaustive search for a replacement only turns up the after market > ones ... If anyone has and extra good one, or knows of a source it > would be greatly appreciated. I don't have a proper Dzus key. I have only recently acquired a car with Dzus fasteners. I have an offset screwdriver which seems to work well. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From WLSServ at aol.com Mon Oct 13 11:58:59 2008 From: WLSServ at aol.com (WLSServ at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 13:58:59 EDT Subject: [TR] ZDDP availability???????????????? Message-ID: Paul I was told that Castrol 4T 4 stroke motorcycle oil, ratings SG, SH, 20W50 has plenty ZDDP, and should be a lot less expensive. Walt In a message dated 10/13/2008 1:10:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: List, I was told that our older cars (without cat. converters) needed ZDDP. Several oil labels mentioned having this including: Valvoline 20w-50 Racing Oil, (I think) Rotella Diesel Oils, etc. **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Oct 13 12:43:18 2008 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 14:43:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZDDP availability? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Buy Brad Penn break-in oil. After that buy Brad Penn 20W50 Racing Oil. I bought it in the Spring for $4/qt. from a local distributor (Rochester, NY) http://www.bradpennracing.com/ Allen Hess From beartranserv at aol.com Mon Oct 13 13:05:21 2008 From: beartranserv at aol.com (beartranserv) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 13:05:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Oh, how soon we forget that we are still paying more than twice what we used to pay!!!!!! In a message dated 10/13/08 06:12:41 Mountain Daylight Time, Chip19474 writes: reasonable fuel prices. From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Mon Oct 13 13:16:31 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 15:16:31 EDT Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: In a message dated 10/13/08 3:07:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, beartranserv at aol.com writes: << Oh, how soon we forget that we are still paying more than twice what we used to pay!!!!!! >> And what we used to pay was 1/2 of what others in the world pay. . Harold ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From eoot at citlink.net Mon Oct 13 13:26:42 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 15:26:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR joys References: Message-ID: <011901c92d69$a01d98c0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> That depends on when you benchmark your "used to pay". It's still 13 times what I can remembering paying. Ok that was awhile ago. ----- Original Message ----- From: "beartranserv" To: "Chip19474" ; <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 3:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR joys > Oh, how soon we forget that we are still paying more than twice what we > used to pay!!!!!! > > > > In a message dated 10/13/08 06:12:41 Mountain Daylight Time, Chip19474 > writes: > reasonable fuel prices. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From acs25m at swbell.net Mon Oct 13 13:35:35 2008 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 12:35:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: <011901c92d69$a01d98c0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: <660775.6664.qm@web81604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I may be showing my age but I can remember gas for under a quarter a gallon! --- On Mon, 10/13/08, Ed Oot wrote: From: Ed Oot Subject: Re: [TR] TR joys To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 2:26 PM That depends on when you benchmark your "used to pay". It's still 13 times what I can remembering paying. Ok that was awhile ago. ----- Original Message ----- From: "beartranserv" To: "Chip19474" ; <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 3:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR joys > Oh, how soon we forget that we are still paying more than twice what we > used to pay!!!!!! > > > > In a message dated 10/13/08 06:12:41 Mountain Daylight Time, Chip19474 > writes: > reasonable fuel prices. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as acs25m at swbell.net http://www.team.net/archive From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Oct 13 13:41:19 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 12:41:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] ZDDP availability???????????????? In-Reply-To: <095601c92d56$509acf10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <095601c92d56$509acf10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: MossMoters sells it for $10.95 >List, >I was told that our older cars (without cat. converters) needed ZDDP. Several >oil labels mentioned having this including: Valvoline 20w-50 Racing Oil, (I >think) Rotella Diesel Oils, etc. > >I was also told about STP Red label but cannot find it locally. Then I read >somewhere that it didn't have that much zddp. Maybe >http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=47699 >0&fpart=1 > >I was then told about "GM E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant", part # 1052367. Gr >8.800. and locally I called the Cadallac dealer who said it was discontiued >several years ago, but, might be coming back. > >The chevy dealer has some at $21.00 > >This additive is also in valvoline's synpower oil, and other synthetics, but, >I wish to avoid synthetics for break-in. > >Ebay doesn't show it, does anyone know where I can get it for less than $21 >?????????? > -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Oct 13 13:44:54 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 15:44:54 EDT Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: yeah...it's all relative isn't it!!?? In a message dated 10/13/2008 3:07:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, beartranserv at aol.com writes: how soon we forget that we are still paying more than twice what we used to pay!!!!!! **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Mon Oct 13 13:47:56 2008 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 14:47:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As the old saying goes," The cure for high prices is high prices" Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "beartranserv" To: "Chip19474" ; <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 2:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR joys > Oh, how soon we forget that we are still paying more than twice what we > used to pay!!!!!! > > > > In a message dated 10/13/08 06:12:41 Mountain Daylight Time, Chip19474 > writes: > reasonable fuel prices. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 13 13:48:49 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 12:48:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] ZDDP availability???????????????? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <365204.21749.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> i believe there are two previously unmentioned brands that will work for us. one is spelled something like admahl? and the other is schaeffer http://www.schaefferoil.com/ i use schaeffer; its running now about 4.50? a qt for 20w50; its a partial synthetic (derivative of dinasour juice), but has molybdem in (sorry about the spelling in this - can't get anything right), which functions similiarly to the zddp. you have to buy $300? minimum, so we get together on it. i also use it in my daily driver (5-20). its interesting stuff - from the demos i've seen it protects your engine way better than dinasour juice or most synthetics. caveat - i'm no engineer, nor do i have any stake in any of this stuff except i want my engines to last! from the prices i'm seeing being thrown around, i'd say this is a pretty good deal. From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Oct 13 13:56:10 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 15:56:10 EDT Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: In a message dated 10/13/2008 2:27:01 PM Central Daylight Time, eoot at citlink.net writes: > That depends on when you benchmark your "used to pay". It's still 13 times > what I can remembering paying. > Did you adjust for inflation? Dave ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 13 14:27:14 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 13:27:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick In-Reply-To: <009901c92d32$9c87a5c0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: <20081013202715.HNKN25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > The problem: An annoying loud tick sound when the car is > under load( Could it be a ping? One way to answer the question : back off the timing by about 6 degrees (with the vernier). Verify with the timing light that it actually moves the timing. If the sound doesn't disappear or at least change noticeably, it's something other than too-advanced ignition timing. After the experiment, put the timing back where it was. > All of the above is to no avail. I have ruled out valve > clatter as I only hear it under load (is this a safe > assumption?) Should be. However there are lots of other mechanical problems that can be described as a ticking sound under load. Unfortunately, an incipient rod knock is one of them. Exhaust leaks at the manifold/head joint also sometimes show up as ticking noises. Randall From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Mon Oct 13 14:29:07 2008 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 13:29:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] ZDDP availability Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0ED27377@kb1.mossmotors.com> Since you asked, Moss carries two specific solutions: 220-805: an additive which restores ZDDP levels $10.95 220-810/220-815: 20W-50 oil blended with correct levels of ZDDP; 69.95/case or 6.95/qt Much info on the web site. Peter Arakelian From ElangTR4 at aol.com Mon Oct 13 14:58:40 2008 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 16:58:40 EDT Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: I had to take my son back to college in SE Ohio yesterday. Sunny, 78 degrees, and the leaves looking good. Just over half way there we got off I-77 and drove back roads. Great hilly, curvy roads, some of which we drove on the 2006 ABRR. (You guys remember 555?) About a 340 mile trip. Would have loved going in the TR6, but Junior brought home all his laundry and other stuff which wouldn't have fit in the 6. It was still fun in the Mini Cooper with the windows down, sunroof open, and the tunes blaring on the stereo. We saw a Fiat Spyder, an MGB, an early Porsche 356 roadster, and nearly a million motorcycles enjoying the day. Eric L. 64 TR4 71 TR6 06 Mini Cooper **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Oct 13 15:06:30 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 16:06:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR joys References: Message-ID: Only because they pay even more taxes than we do. Karl > << Oh, how soon we forget that we are still paying more than twice what we > used > to pay!!!!!! >> > > And what we used to pay was 1/2 of what others in the world pay. . > > Harold From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Oct 13 17:19:04 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 19:19:04 EDT Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 ignition problems Message-ID: Hi Guys, All those problems that I reported about my TR6 low rev miss have been traced back to a brand new faulty condenser. Not sure I am buying it but that's the story. I have at least 6 hours personally invested fooling with it and a like amount of paid professional hours that has come to this determination. What a piss off! Bottom line is I took the Six out for a nice drive Sunday and all was relatively well. Just the slightest hint of a cough under load at low revs. OK not bad for a 50,000 mile original motor, Huh? I think I will give it a rest now. On to the TR250. I was getting only 120 pounds compression across the board out of that one but now I am told you have to hold the throttle open to get a good reading? Really? That would be good for she really runs OK so why should I sweat it? Cheers, Darrell **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Oct 13 18:17:08 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 19:17:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] ZDDP availability???????????????? In-Reply-To: <095601c92d56$509acf10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <095601c92d56$509acf10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081014001724.04826187656@autox.team.net> Valvoline VR-1 20w50 "For racing use only" non-synthetic oil is available locally at Autozone and Farm and Fleet for somewhere in the $3 to $4 per quart range. Lots of ZDDP - with that and a non-radical cam you don't need any further additive. EOS was discontinued but came back. Price went up. But, the bottle is 8 oz (or the new version is reputed to be16 oz) and you only need 4 oz at an oil change. Be careful because some oils that had sufficient ZDDP a year or so ago have reformulated. Brad Penn is good stuff too (more expensive). - Tony Drews At 12:08 PM 10/13/2008, dorpaul wrote: >List, >I was told that our older cars (without cat. converters) needed ZDDP. Several >oil labels mentioned having this including: Valvoline 20w-50 Racing Oil, (I >think) Rotella Diesel Oils, etc. > >I was also told about STP Red label but cannot find it locally. Then I read >somewhere that it didn't have that much zddp. Maybe >http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=47699 >0&fpart=1 > >I was then told about "GM E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant", part # 1052367. Gr >8.800. and locally I called the Cadallac dealer who said it was discontiued >several years ago, but, might be coming back. > >The chevy dealer has some at $21.00 > >This additive is also in valvoline's synpower oil, and other synthetics, but, >I wish to avoid synthetics for break-in. > >Ebay doesn't show it, does anyone know where I can get it for less than $21 >?????????? > >Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > >-- >I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. >SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. >Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > >The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >http://www.vtr.org > > >Triumphs at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > >You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com > >http://www.team.net/archive From tony at tonydrews.com Mon Oct 13 18:22:32 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 19:22:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 ignition problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20081014002248.98C36187656@autox.team.net> You do need to hold the throttle open to get a good compression reading. I added 50% or so once I re-remembered that. If it runs good, and doesn't burn a ton of oil (or create a bunch of blow by) I say don't sweat it. I had an old VW beetle that I had to redirect the crankcase vent outside of the carb intake because it had so much blowby that it caused the car to run poorly. Once I did that, it ran like champ but left a trail of blue smoke out of my redirected crank vent... - Tony Drews At 06:19 PM 10/13/2008, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: >On to the TR250. I was getting only 120 pounds >compression across the board out of that one but now I am told you >have to hold the >throttle open to get a good reading? Really? That would be good for she >really runs OK so why should I sweat it? >Cheers, >Darrell From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Oct 13 21:19:57 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 23:19:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] ZDDP availability???????????????? Message-ID: <098b01c92dab$bca2c050$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Thanks, Which non-synthetic do you think is better for street use: Valvoline VR-1 20w50 "For racing use only" (so stated proably for legal reason only,which in fact, is stated in an article) or Valvoline 20w50 w/'new' GM EOS shown at http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results.cfm?singlepart=1&partnumber=1052367 . The price of either choice is about the same, in the long run. For street use ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Drews" To: "dorpaul" ; "list Triumph" Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:17 PM Subject: Re: [TR] ZDDP availability???????????????? > non-synthetic oil is available locally at Autozone and Farm and Fleet for > somewhere in the $3 to $4 per quart range. Lots of ZDDP - with that and a > non-radical cam you don't need any further additive. > > EOS was discontinued but came back. Price went up. But, the bottle is 8 > oz (or the new version is reputed to be16 oz) and you only need 4 oz at an > oil change. > > Be careful because some oils that had sufficient ZDDP a year or so ago > have reformulated. Brad Penn is good stuff too (more expensive). > > - Tony Drews > > At 12:08 PM 10/13/2008, dorpaul wrote: >>List, >>I was told that our older cars (without cat. converters) needed ZDDP. >>Several >>oil labels mentioned having this including: Valvoline 20w-50 Racing Oil, >>(I >>think) Rotella Diesel Oils, etc. >> >>I was also told about STP Red label but cannot find it locally. Then I >>read >>somewhere that it didn't have that much zddp. Maybe >>http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=47699 >>0&fpart=1 >> >>I was then told about "GM E.O.S. Assembly Lubricant", part # 1052367. Gr >>8.800. and locally I called the Cadallac dealer who said it was >>discontiued >>several years ago, but, might be coming back. >> >>The chevy dealer has some at $21.00 >> >>This additive is also in valvoline's synpower oil, and other synthetics, >>but, >>I wish to avoid synthetics for break-in. >> >>Ebay doesn't show it, does anyone know where I can get it for less than >>$21 >>?????????? >> >>Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 >> >>-- >>I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. >>SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. >>Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len >> >>The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >>http://www.vtr.org >> >> >>Triumphs at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >>You are subscribed as tony at tonydrews.com >> >>http://www.team.net/archive > > -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email From wbeech at flash.net Mon Oct 13 22:21:56 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 22:21:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: <660775.6664.qm@web81604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <011901c92d69$a01d98c0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> <660775.6664.qm@web81604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yep, When gas hit .50 gal in 1974 I told my wife "We're sell the Vette, I can't afford this" Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of acs25m at swbell.net Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 1:36 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR joys I may be showing my age but I can remember gas for under a quarter a gallon! --- On Mon, 10/13/08, Ed Oot wrote: From: Ed Oot Subject: Re: [TR] TR joys To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 2:26 PM That depends on when you benchmark your "used to pay". It's still 13 times what I can remembering paying. Ok that was awhile ago. ----- Original Message ----- From: "beartranserv" To: "Chip19474" ; <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 3:05 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR joys > Oh, how soon we forget that we are still paying more than twice what > we used to pay!!!!!! > > > > In a message dated 10/13/08 06:12:41 Mountain Daylight Time, Chip19474 > writes: > reasonable fuel prices. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as acs25m at swbell.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.8.0/1722 - Release Date: 10/13/2008 6:42 PM From wbeech at flash.net Mon Oct 13 22:30:06 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 22:30:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Shades of red Message-ID: <729E1C0504A9437BA87E85471EED1964@sniffer> Has anyone experienced receiving different shades of red from TRF? I got my panels, dash recover kit and leather/vinyl seats and have noticed that the dash kit is a more orange shade of red. I understand that there can be dye lot differences but this seems to be a different grade of vinyl as well. I still need to order my capping kit but am afraid of what I will get. How critical is the exact match to those who judge the cars for originality? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 14 06:02:05 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 08:02:05 EDT Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 ignition problems Message-ID: In a message dated 10/13/2008 6:19:47 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > All those problems that I reported about my TR6 low rev miss have been > traced back to a brand new faulty condenser. Not sure I am buying it but > that's > the story. I have at least 6 hours personally invested fooling with it and > a > like amount of paid professional hours that has come to this determination. > > Darrell, I had a persistent low speed miss under load the I finally solved by regapping my plugs. I thought I would improve thermal efficiency by setting the gap to .035 but it turns out the coil couldn't develop enough voltage to jump that gap when cylinder pressures were the highest. As a consequence I always recommend checking the plugs when encountering a low speed miss. BTW, the car runs just fine at .025 so why mess with it? Dave ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Tue Oct 14 06:44:52 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 08:44:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Shades of red In-Reply-To: <729E1C0504A9437BA87E85471EED1964@sniffer> Message-ID: Bill, I'd suggest checking out Mark Macy's site regarding interiors. He's the Tech Advisor to TRA and the TRA Concours interior judge. http://www.macysgarage.com Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 12:30 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Shades of red Has anyone experienced receiving different shades of red from TRF? I got my panels, dash recover kit and leather/vinyl seats and have noticed that the dash kit is a more orange shade of red. I understand that there can be dye lot differences but this seems to be a different grade of vinyl as well. I still need to order my capping kit but am afraid of what I will get. How critical is the exact match to those who judge the cars for originality? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From eoot at citlink.net Tue Oct 14 07:24:42 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 09:24:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick References: <20081013202715.HNKN25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <012a01c92e00$385063c0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Thanks for the reply. I will retard the spark with vernier and note any difference. Based on past attempts I expect none, but still will try and will verify movement with the light. If an exhaust manifold leak were the problem would this only be noticeable under load? TIA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Ed Oot'" ; Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 4:27 PM Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick > >> The problem: An annoying loud tick sound when the car is >> under load( Could it be a ping? > > One way to answer the question : back off the timing by about 6 degrees > (with the vernier). Verify with the timing light that it actually moves > the > timing. If the sound doesn't disappear or at least change noticeably, > it's > something other than too-advanced ignition timing. After the experiment, > put the timing back where it was. > >> All of the above is to no avail. I have ruled out valve >> clatter as I only hear it under load (is this a safe >> assumption?) > > Should be. However there are lots of other mechanical problems that can > be > described as a ticking sound under load. Unfortunately, an incipient rod > knock is one of them. Exhaust leaks at the manifold/head joint also > sometimes show up as ticking noises. > > Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Oct 14 07:30:32 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 09:30:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] jet adjustment Message-ID: <09a401c92e01$08bf4e90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Yesterday when I had my TR3's engine running, I tried but couldn't get to the needle level adjustments on the SU's to balance the H6's. I wonder if I should have tried harder. However, I removed both air filters and saw that both pistons were 3/4's of the way down and opened in sync. when the rpmmmm's were increased. I had already ball-parked their fast (or is it their slow) idle adjustment. Does this sync. suggest that they were needle-height-ok-adjusted? After running it at various low rpmmm's I shut it off with the KEY SWITCH! I removed all the plugs and they all looked equally flat sooty straight black. Does this mean turns of the jet adjustments equally up or is it down? Thanks, Paul Dorsey BTW- One plug was a Champion L182Y. Any difference? -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 14 07:56:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 06:56:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick In-Reply-To: <012a01c92e00$385063c0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: <20081014135610.XSRL25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > If an exhaust manifold leak were the problem would this only > be noticeable under load? Not always, but they do show up that way sometimes. A bit of load makes the exhaust pulses much stronger, and so more likely to be noticed over other noises. I've also heard a loose spark plug described as "ticking under load" for the same reason. Randall From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Oct 14 07:58:57 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 09:58:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] jet adjustment In-Reply-To: <09a401c92e01$08bf4e90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <09a401c92e01$08bf4e90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8CAFC1C231F1E5E-10F0-F4@webmail-de04.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: dorpaul However, I removed both air filters and saw that both pistons were 3/4's of the way down and opened in sync. when the rpmmmm's were increased. I had already ball-parked their fast (or is it their slow) idle adjustment. Does this sync. suggest that they were needle-height-ok-adjusted? ==AM== At the least, it suggests that the two carbs are synchronized to each other, which is very good, but it doesn't necessarily mean one isn't still a bit richer (or leaner). ==AM== After running it at various low rpmmm's I shut it off with the KEY SWITCH! I removed all the plugs and they all looked equally flat sooty straight black. Does this mean turns of the jet adjustments equally up or is it down? ==AM== Possibly rich, which means turning the jets up a bit...but just basing plug color on sitting and tuning in the garage or driveway isn't the most reliable way. Driving some distance and rechecking would be a better measure, I'd think. ==AM== BTW- One plug was a Champion L182Y. Any difference? ==AM== Than what? A Champion L87Y (which is the typical recommended plug, and it's a bit hotter than the L82Y)? or another brand altogether in the other three cylinders??? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Tue Oct 14 08:04:39 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:04:39 EDT Subject: [TR] TR joys Message-ID: In a message dated 10/14/08 12:31:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: << .50 gal in 1974 >> $ 2.22 today. http://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl The recent spike not withstanding, fuel is still pretty low considering the expense to produce, transport. New regs dictate changing formulas, 2x hulled tankers / tanks, fire systems at gas stations, 2% + station $ loss when using a credit card. Time to blame Canada. . . . http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/ask/crudeoil_faqs.asp#foreign_oil The top five source countries and their percent share of U.S. total net petroleum imports were: Canada (18%) Saudia Arabia (12%) Venezuela (11%) Mexico (10%) Nigeria (9%) ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Tue Oct 14 08:13:23 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:13:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] jet adjustment References: <09a401c92e01$08bf4e90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <006301c92e07$07626ef0$0300a8c0@Desktop> YES ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 9:30 AM Subject: [TR] jet adjustment > Yesterday when I had my TR3's engine running, I tried but couldn't get to > the > needle level adjustments on the SU's to balance the H6's. I wonder if I > should have tried harder. > > However, I removed both air filters and saw that both pistons were 3/4's > of > the way down and opened in sync. when the rpmmmm's were increased. I had > already ball-parked their fast (or is it their slow) idle adjustment. > Does > this sync. suggest that they were needle-height-ok-adjusted? > > After running it at various low rpmmm's I shut it off with the KEY SWITCH! > I > removed all the plugs and they all looked equally flat sooty straight > black. > Does this mean turns of the jet adjustments equally up or is it down? > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey > > > BTW- One plug was a Champion L182Y. Any difference? > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. > SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Oct 14 09:02:11 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:02:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick References: <20081014135610.XSRL25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <0C97F00A33BC4D93B60419D044BC177A@KARL> This IS in top gear, right ? If it only happens in one gear, OTHER THAN 4th, it might be the transmission. A missing tooth in a gear will cause a tick-tick-tick sound, but only when that gear is driving. As long as your ticking is in 4th gear, it's not a gear in the transmission making the noise, but it could still be a main transmission bearing (though that would be unlikely to just cause a tick-tick-tick). In top gear the gears in the transmission are just idling - the mainshaft is locked and the transmission is driving directly from input shaft to mainshaft. Karl >> If an exhaust manifold leak were the problem would this only >> be noticeable under load? > > Not always, but they do show up that way sometimes. A bit of load makes > the > exhaust pulses much stronger, and so more likely to be noticed over other > noises. > > I've also heard a loose spark plug described as "ticking under load" for > the > same reason. > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 14 09:19:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 08:19:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick In-Reply-To: <0C97F00A33BC4D93B60419D044BC177A@KARL> Message-ID: <20081014151955.LCJL18245.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > A missing > tooth in a gear will cause a tick-tick-tick sound, but only > when that gear is driving. Good point. My Stag had sort of a knock that was mostly only noticeable in 4th gear; that turned out to be a broken tooth in the differential ring gear. I didn't realize what it was until it suddenly got quite a bit worse ... the adjacent tooth broke as well. Randall From eoot at citlink.net Tue Oct 14 10:10:56 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 12:10:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick References: <20081014135610.XSRL25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> <0C97F00A33BC4D93B60419D044BC177A@KARL> Message-ID: <01a101c92e17$70ec9c50$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Karl Thanks for the response. The tick is there in every gear when under load. If just maintaining speed then is not (or is barely) noticeable. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl Vacek" To: Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 11:02 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick > This IS in top gear, right ? If it only happens in one gear, OTHER THAN > 4th, it might be the transmission. A missing tooth in a gear will cause a > tick-tick-tick sound, but only when that gear is driving. > > As long as your ticking is in 4th gear, it's not a gear in the > transmission making the noise, but it could still be a main transmission > bearing (though that would be unlikely to just cause a tick-tick-tick). > In top gear the gears in the transmission are just idling - the mainshaft > is locked and the transmission is driving directly from input shaft to > mainshaft. > > Karl > > >>> If an exhaust manifold leak were the problem would this only >>> be noticeable under load? >> >> Not always, but they do show up that way sometimes. A bit of load makes >> the >> exhaust pulses much stronger, and so more likely to be noticed over other >> noises. >> >> I've also heard a loose spark plug described as "ticking under load" for >> the >> same reason. >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Oct 14 11:50:04 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:50:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas Mileage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7A403B86A46D4C4ABB7D4BA05D86257C@Induninwlaptop> I know, who cares, right? Well, I've noticed that my 4A doesn't do so well with MPG as I would think it should. Not that I'm REALLY keeping track of mileage, but a trip in to town (5 to 10 miles, all around 25 to 35 MPH) shouldn't suck up an eighth of a tank. A quick calc tells me that's less than 10 MPG. Sure I like to "get on it" but even so... Let me preface this conversation with - I've completely restored this car, frame off, total overhaul. There are *NO* leaks of any kind (OK, maybe a drop of oil on the floor over the course of a week) and everything works great. I've tried backing off the fuel mixture, but that tends to result in harder starting and slower response. Rebuilt carbs, Pertronix ignition, no smell of gas anywhere. I *DO* have dark sooty exhaust in the tail pipes though! Valves may be a bit tight, but if not they make a ton of noise... Any thoughts? Brian 67 TR4A From gprtech at frontiernet.net Tue Oct 14 11:55:00 2008 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 13:55:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR joys In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48F4DCF4.7070201@frontiernet.net> You mean Nigeria actually has an export besides scams? George Richardson ZinkZ10C at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/14/08 12:31:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > wbeech at flash.net writes: > > << .50 gal in 1974 >> > > $ 2.22 today. http://data.bls.gov/cgi-bin/cpicalc.pl > > The recent spike not withstanding, fuel is still pretty low considering the > expense to produce, transport. New regs dictate changing formulas, 2x hulled > tankers / tanks, fire systems at gas stations, 2% + station $ loss when using a > credit card. > > Time to blame Canada. . . . > http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/ask/crudeoil_faqs.asp#foreign_oil > > The top five source countries and their percent share of U.S. total net > petroleum imports were: > > Canada (18%) > Saudia Arabia (12%) > Venezuela (11%) > Mexico (10%) > Nigeria (9%) > ************** > New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. > Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out > (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as gprtech at frontiernet.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Oct 14 12:09:52 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 13:09:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick References: <20081014135610.XSRL25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall><0C97F00A33BC4D93B60419D044BC177A@KARL> <01a101c92e17$70ec9c50$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: This still doesn't rule out Randall's suggestion that it could be in the rear axle ring gear. Can you find a way to eliminate that possibility ? If it's there, I'd expect it to happen under engine braking as well as acceleration. Karl > The tick is there in every gear when under load. If just maintaining speed > then is not (or is barely) noticeable. From wbmcleod at gmail.com Tue Oct 14 12:21:16 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 11:21:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas Mileage In-Reply-To: <7A403B86A46D4C4ABB7D4BA05D86257C@Induninwlaptop> References: <7A403B86A46D4C4ABB7D4BA05D86257C@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <58FC15B8-0807-442A-99AD-F92E580969A6@gmail.com> It has been my experience that mileage has really suffered as the gas formulations have changed over the years. Your results may vary, of course! Bill Slightly Classics 63 TR4, 68 TR250, 69 TR6, 56 TR10 (2). That's a rebadged Standard 8. On Oct 14, 2008, at 10:50 AM, Brian Induni wrote: > I know, who cares, right? Well, I've noticed that my 4A doesn't do > so well > with MPG as I would think it should. Not that I'm REALLY keeping > track of > mileage, but a trip in to town (5 to 10 miles, all around 25 to 35 > MPH) > shouldn't suck up an eighth of a tank. A quick calc tells me that's > less > than 10 MPG. Sure I like to "get on it" but even so... > > Let me preface this conversation with - I've completely restored > this car, > frame off, total overhaul. There are *NO* leaks of any kind (OK, > maybe a > drop of oil on the floor over the course of a week) and everything > works > great. I've tried backing off the fuel mixture, but that tends to > result in > harder starting and slower response. > > Rebuilt carbs, Pertronix ignition, no smell of gas anywhere. I *DO* > have > dark sooty exhaust in the tail pipes though! Valves may be a bit > tight, but > if not they make a ton of noise... > > Any thoughts? > > Brian > 67 TR4A > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbmcleod at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From CarlSereda at aol.com Tue Oct 14 12:37:29 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 14:37:29 EDT Subject: [TR] gas mileage Message-ID: Brian, I think I would use a 'whole' tank of gas before making your mileage calculations and messin' with carbs, timing, etc.. Also how many miles on engine - mileage should get better after break-in right? ps; tappets should be noisy on all TR 4-bangers, if not, they're mal-adjusted! (or you have the alloy valve cover) Carl I've noticed that my 4A doesn't do so well with MPG as I would think it should. Not that I'm REALLY keeping track of mileage, but a trip in to town (5 to 10 miles, all around 25 to 35 MPH) shouldn't suck up an eighth of a tank. A quick calc tells me that's less than 10 MPG. Sure I like to "get on it" but even so... Let me preface this conversation with - I've completely restored this car, frame off, total overhaul. There are *NO* leaks of any kind (OK, maybe a drop of oil on the floor over the course of a week) and everything works great. I've tried backing off the fuel mixture, but that tends to result in harder starting and slower response. Rebuilt carbs, Pertronix ignition, no smell of gas anywhere. I *DO* have dark sooty exhaust in the tail pipes though! Valves may be a bit tight, but if not they make a ton of noise... Any thoughts?


**************
New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From pryner at verizon.net Tue Oct 14 12:39:40 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 14:39:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick In-Reply-To: References: <20081014135610.XSRL25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall><0C97F00A33BC4D93B60419D044BC177A@KARL> <01a101c92e17$70ec9c50$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: <6136F459C477408BA6EE9602AD09C2B5@PetePC> I had a similar problem last year. I took the rocker shaft off and checked everything I could without removing the head. Found nothing. Then I started to look around the engine and I found that the fan belt had started to separate and was hitting metal when I accelerated. Didn't make the noise without the load. Might want to look around the engine bay. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl Vacek" To: "Ed Oot" ; Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 2:09 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick > This still doesn't rule out Randall's suggestion that it could be in the > rear axle ring gear. Can you find a way to eliminate that possibility ? > If it's there, I'd expect it to happen under engine braking as well as > acceleration. > > Karl > > >> The tick is there in every gear when under load. If just maintaining >> speed then is not (or is barely) noticeable. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pryner at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Oct 14 13:09:22 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 15:09:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas mileage In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Brian, 10 mpg is very low - approaching Humvee-like mileage. However, a run of 5-10 miles is not optimal to assess this. If you have stock needles, headers, valves, air filters, wheels and cam, it seems half, or even slightly less than that, of the mpg you might expect. Also, calculating mpg by an estimated 'eigth of a tank' is putting too much faith in the accuracy of your fuel gauge. Is your choke really off when the knob is pushed in? How are your plugs. If they are as sooty as your tail pipe, then you are running rich. But if you only drive 5 or so miles at a time, the short distances could explain much of that. I'd try a longer run, minimally 50 miles, on as flat a route as practicable: first warm the car up, then top-off the tank, reset your trip meter and then refuel at the same gas pump on your return. See what mpg you really get, as the car is set now. If you have a gps, the recorded mileage, while not perfect, may be more accurate than your tripmeter. On your return, I'd look at your plugs; if sooty, check your timing, clean your plugs, lean your carbs a little, then try again. BTW - are you running stock plugs? The damned, wretched pity of all this is that you'll have to drive the car more frequently, for greater distances . Yeah! I have a 62 TR4 with SU6 carbs. I get 20 about town and 25 on the highway. I have no overdrive (yet). This seems about average with these cars, in OK condition, with today's fuel, with moderate-to-spirited driving. In Imperial gallon terms (in case you are in the UK) these mpg ratings would be 25 mpg around town and 31 highway...very reasonable for a 46-year-young motor. Less flattering things could be said of her similar-vintage driver ;^) Good luck, Brian From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Oct 14 13:21:49 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 15:21:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick In-Reply-To: <6136F459C477408BA6EE9602AD09C2B5@PetePC> References: <20081014135610.XSRL25796.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall><0C97F00A33BC4D93B60419D044BC177A@KARL><01a101c92e17$70ec9c50$640a0a0a@WANDERER> <6136F459C477408BA6EE9602AD09C2B5@PetePC> Message-ID: I had a similar problem and was about to pull the engine down when I realized it was the fan on the crank had become loose. Nothing at idle, but a clicking on acceleration. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Ryner Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 2:40 PM To: Karl Vacek; Ed Oot; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick I had a similar problem last year. I took the rocker shaft off and checked everything I could without removing the head. Found nothing. Then I started to look around the engine and I found that the fan belt had started to separate and was hitting metal when I accelerated. Didn't make the noise without the load. Might want to look around the engine bay. Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl Vacek" To: "Ed Oot" ; Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 2:09 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick > This still doesn't rule out Randall's suggestion that it could be in the > rear axle ring gear. Can you find a way to eliminate that possibility ? > If it's there, I'd expect it to happen under engine braking as well as > acceleration. > > Karl > > >> The tick is there in every gear when under load. If just maintaining >> speed then is not (or is barely) noticeable. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pryner at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Oct 14 13:22:14 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 15:22:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick Message-ID: <20081014152214.BOX02541@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Karl Vacek wrote: > This still doesn't rule out Randall's suggestion that it > could be in the rear axle ring gear. Can you find a way > to eliminate that possibility ? Question is: Does the ticking frequency correlate to engine rpm or to road speed? -- Jim Muller no signature included... From dfb2000 at comcast.net Tue Oct 14 13:33:54 2008 From: dfb2000 at comcast.net (Bill McCabe) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 15:33:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick In-Reply-To: <009901c92d32$9c87a5c0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Message-ID: I can't give any TR spcific advice, since I'm still ony hoping for one, but I've had two kinds of ticking: one came from a small crack in the rubber carb mount for my Alfa's side-draft webers, the other was a stone lodged in my tire tread. (Please disregard if not applicable.) Bill On 10/13/08 at 8:52 AM, eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) wrote: > Listers, > > Need some thoughts on this one. > > The problem: An annoying loud tick sound when the car is under load( Could it > be a ping? Is one man's tick another man's ping?) I digress. > > Ignition is utilizing Pertronix > > Attempted solution: I have messed with the timing in an effort to elimiante of > decrease the problem to no avail. This includes setting the timing using > various methods including but not limited to: 1)rotating the dizzy to the fast > RPM, road tesing and then adjusting vernier. 2) Timing light. Tried various > settings based on timing light reading. 3) Set #1 to TDC on compression stroke > and then set static using multimeter to determine firing. Use vernier to > change advance. > > All of the above is to no avail. I have ruled out valve clatter as I only hear > it under load (is this a safe assumption?) I believe that this started after I > played with the timeing a bit in an attempt to improve performance. > > Thoughts please > TIA > Ed > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dfb2000 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 14 13:34:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 12:34:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Gas Mileage In-Reply-To: <7A403B86A46D4C4ABB7D4BA05D86257C@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <20081014193404.EWCQ17023.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I've tried > backing off the fuel mixture, but that tends to result in > harder starting Are you using the choke when starting ? > and slower response. What kind of oil do you have in the dashpots ? SU or ZS carbs ? > I *DO* have dark sooty exhaust in the tail pipes though! Not conclusive that the mixture is always too rich, but certainly evidence that it was too rich at some point. Once it's sooted up though, you have to get it really hot to burn off that soot. Used to be different, with the exhaust depositing a fine layer of white lead oxide all the time, but unleaded fuel doesn't do that. Car engines do actually run better (make more power) with the mixture rather rich; which is why the carbs are supposed to go rich when you first open the throttle and at higher flow rates. But best fuel economy is achieved with the mixture on the lean side. > Rebuilt carbs Which needles ? Using the 'rich' needles did terrible things to the fuel economy on my TR3A. Have you checked for things like dragging brakes, wheel misalignment, etc. ? Do the vacuum and centrifugal advance mechanisms both work ? How's the ignition timing ? If all else fails, I'd double-check the valve timing. I also would not want to run the valves tighter than specified for the cam you have (BTW, which cam do you have ?) ... better to listen to a little clatter than have to tear the engine back down to replace burned valves, IMO. Randall From toysrus at ptd.net Tue Oct 14 13:38:25 2008 From: toysrus at ptd.net (Russ Czura) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 15:38:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] "Un-Subscribed" Message-ID: Good Afternoon, Yesterday; 10-13-08; I "Un-Subscribed" from this forum but I still am rec`g. personal emails from the site. Please "Un-Subscribe" me from any and all future anthing. Thanx, Russ toysrus at ptd.net From eoot at citlink.net Tue Oct 14 13:40:57 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 15:40:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick References: <20081014152214.BOX02541@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <01d401c92e34$c803f750$640a0a0a@WANDERER> That's a good question Jim.Without going out and trying it again I would say engine maybe and road no. When applying additional throttle going up a hill the tick is very evident. I cannot swear that it responds exactly to engine RPM, but to some degree I think it must. In my hill example, once the throttle is decreased a bit the tick goes away. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 3:22 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick > Karl Vacek wrote: >> This still doesn't rule out Randall's suggestion that it >> could be in the rear axle ring gear. Can you find a way >> to eliminate that possibility ? > > Question is: Does the ticking frequency correlate to engine rpm or to > road speed? > -- > Jim Muller > no signature included... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Oct 14 14:10:24 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 16:10:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Gas Mileage Message-ID: Brian, I would agree that if your fuel gauge is dead accurate, the mpg from your "quick calc" would be cause for concern. BUT - the only way to be absolutely sure of your mileage is to refill the tank and do the math the old fashioned way......miles divided by gallons! Even rebuilt gauges are not always accurate to an eighth of a tank.....did you replace the fuel gauge sender during your restoration? The gauges are not always the culprit...they depend on electrical input from their respective sender i.e., fuel, temp, etc. If you are truly getting 8 or 9 mpg then you should start looking for hopefully obvious external fuel leaks....also be sure that the fuel pump isn't leaking fuel past its diaphragm into the crankcase.... Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 10/14/2008 2:08:42 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 308gtsi at roadrunner.com writes: but a trip in to town (5 to 10 miles, all around 25 to 35 MPH) shouldn't suck up an eighth of a tank. A quick calc tells me that's less than 10 MPG. Sure I like to "get on it" but even so... **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Oct 14 14:13:46 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 16:13:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick Message-ID: <20081014161346.BOX16648@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > When applying additional throttle going up a hill the tick > is very evident... In my hill example, once the throttle > is decreased a bit the tick goes away. That's not quite what I meant by road speed vs. rpm. What you describe is that it is louder when the drivetrain is under accelerative stress (or non-existent when it isn't). What I meant can be checked only by shifting gears. Shift gears but keep the road speed more or less constant, but try to maintain however much acceleration is needed to make the noise show up. If the ticking frequency speed stays about the same after you shift while you try to keep the car moving about the same speed, then it is coming from the output shaft of the gearbox or the diff or the rear axles, tires, etc. If the ticking frequency changes noticeably, faster or slower according to what the engine did, then it is coming from the engine or the gearbox input shaft. -- Jim Muller From spamiam at comcast.net Tue Oct 14 14:20:48 2008 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 16:20:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Gas Mileage References: Message-ID: <6C1139062C0743A5ABE2F560A5E3F332@p4server> It is either malfunctioning carbs (like sticking pistons in the vacuum chamber) or sloppy rich needles. WHat needles do you have? I found that the stock TW were too lean for modern juel, and RL was just about right. -Tony ----- Original Message ----- > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 10:50:04 -0700 > From: "Brian Induni" <308gtsi at roadrunner.com> > Subject: [TR] Gas Mileage > To: > Message-ID: <7A403B86A46D4C4ABB7D4BA05D86257C at Induninwlaptop> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I know, who cares, right? Well, I've noticed that my 4A doesn't do so well > with MPG as I would think it should. Not that I'm REALLY keeping track of > mileage, but a trip in to town (5 to 10 miles, all around 25 to 35 MPH) > shouldn't suck up an eighth of a tank. A quick calc tells me that's less > than 10 MPG. Sure I like to "get on it" but even so... > > Let me preface this conversation with - I've completely restored this car, > frame off, total overhaul. There are *NO* leaks of any kind (OK, maybe a > drop of oil on the floor over the course of a week) and everything works > great. I've tried backing off the fuel mixture, but that tends to result > in > harder starting and slower response. > > Rebuilt carbs, Pertronix ignition, no smell of gas anywhere. I *DO* have > dark sooty exhaust in the tail pipes though! Valves may be a bit tight, > but > if not they make a ton of noise... > > Any thoughts? > > Brian > 67 TR4A From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 14 14:27:53 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 13:27:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] "Un-Subscribed" In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081014202752.GKJJ17023.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Yesterday; 10-13-08; I "Un-Subscribed" from this forum but I > still am rec`g. > personal emails from the site. > > Please "Un-Subscribe" me from any and all future anthing. There were some recent problem with the server; perhaps your unsubscribe request was lost. Unfortunately the list master doesn't read this list, and we can't do it for you, so I suggest you click on this link : http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs And try again. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Oct 14 16:08:23 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 18:08:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] relay locations? Message-ID: <09c301c92e49$60ef5e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hello and thanks, Where do I put relays? I've will have 2 light relays (bright & dim), 1 electric fan relay, and if folks tell me there needed then I'll add others.... Shouldn't the horns have a relay? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for Personal use. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Trial and Professional version does not have this message in the email From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue Oct 14 16:32:41 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 18:32:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 512 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Russ, Thanx for your contribution. Please allow the Unsubscribe-R-Us system to operate, following your request only 24 hours ago. Meantime, we recommend that you delete any personal emails you receive. We all were distressed to hear of your issue. Good luck in your any-and-all-future anything. Triumphs-R-Us On Oct 14, 2008, at 4:13 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: "Russ Czura" > Subject: Re: [TR] "Un-Subscribed" > To: > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Good Afternoon, > > Yesterday; 10-13-08; I "Un-Subscribed" from this forum but I still > am rec`g. > personal emails from the site. > > Please "Un-Subscribe" me from any and all future anthing. > > Thanx, Russ > toysrus at ptd.net From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Oct 14 17:15:09 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 19:15:09 EDT Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 ignition problems Message-ID: In a message dated 10/14/2008 8:02:56 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: Darrell, I had a persistent low speed miss under load the I finally solved by regapping my plugs. Yeah Dave, Before I stick a fork in the TR6 I want to put in a new set of well gapped Bosch Platinum Plus plugs. Cheers, Darrell **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Oct 14 17:47:58 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 19:47:58 EDT Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR250 Issues Message-ID: **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) Return-path: From: TR250Driver at aol.com Full-name: TR250Driver Message-ID: Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 19:26:28 EDT Subject: TR250 Issues To: triumphs at autox.team.nett MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5377 X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain Geez Guys, On to the next problem child. The TR250'S ignition idiot light likes to shine. No apparent reason, the original Lucas alternator should be in good shape. Part substitution of the external voltage regulator has no effect? I am stumped, time for a frame off restoration, huh? No Kidding, Bondo decease in the driver side door as well. Darrell BTW,this 250 has all the bumble bee, barber shop type hoses in place. Perhaps I should just part her out for the hoses alone are worth $2000 + on e-bay **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Oct 14 18:24:40 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 00:24:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick Message-ID: <101520080024.14207.48F53848000E0D980000377F22165384969C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Listers, > > Need some thoughts on this one. > > The problem: An annoying loud tick sound when the car is under load( Could it > be a ping? Is one man's tick another man's ping?) I digress. Ed, Dunno if this is it, but it took me three years to finally believe with confidence that the clatter I was hearing was not an exhaust leak, timing ping, or valve noise. It's the timing chain, which Triumph tried to quiet with some goop on the timing cover. Louder on acceleration (if this is what you mean by "load," as opposed to going uphill?). I should probably goop something on it, but not I've simply tuned it out. Hmmm...is that a new kind of tune up? ...ehr, out??? Terry Smith New Hampshire From: postmaster at comcast.net (Webmail Postmaster) To: terryrs at comcast.net Subject: Returned mail: User unknown Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 00:10:28 +0000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from Multipart/mixed by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was message/rfc822 From: terryrs at comcast.net To: "Ed Oot" X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Oct 30 2007) X-Authenticated-Sender: dGVycnlyc0Bjb21jYXN0Lm5ldA== X-Remote-Addr: 75.68.148.15 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Ed Oot" > Listers, > > Need some thoughts on this one. > > The problem: An annoying loud tick sound when the car is under load( Could it > be a ping? Is one man's tick another man's ping?) I digress. Ed, Dunno if this is it, but it took me three yearsa to finally believe that the clatter I was h earing was not an exhaust leak, timing ping, or valve noise. It's the timing chain, which Triumph tried to quiet with some goop on the timing cover. I should probably goop something on it, but not I've simply tuned it out. Hmmm...is that a new kind of tune up? ...ehr, out??? Terry Smith New Hampshire From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 14 18:37:33 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 17:37:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR250 Issues In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081015003732.UMCG19036.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > The TR250'S ignition idiot > light likes to shine. No apparent reason, the original > Lucas alternator should be in good shape. Part substitution > of the external voltage regulator has no effect? > I am stumped, time for a frame off restoration, huh? No, just a little electrical troubleshooting. I would probably start by pulling the connector off of the voltage regulator, and also the brown/yellow (NY) wire off the alternator, then turn the key on and see if the light comes on. If so, there is a short to ground somewhere in the NY wire. If not, then reconnect the wires, start the engine, and check the voltage on the NY wire (wherever it's easy to reach, probably at the regulator). If you find 12v on the NY wire and the light is on, then there is a wiring problem between the light and the ignition switch. If you don't find 12v on the NY wire, then there is a problem either in the alternator, or between the alternator and where you checked for 12v. BTW, I believe it's effectively the alternator that controls the light, rather than the regulator. However the regulator has to pass current from the light into the alternator, to start it working, so it does control the light indirectly. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 14 18:41:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 17:41:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] relay locations? In-Reply-To: <09c301c92e49$60ef5e00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081015004137.MXJY17023.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Where do I put relays? Pretty much wherever you want them, Paul. My headlight and ignition relays are mounted to the panel near the voltage regulator; while my horn relay is mounted to the kick panel above the driver's left knee (out of sight). Or, you could follow Dan Masters' lead, and make up a relay panel to mount to the bottom of the battery box, above the tunnel. Randall From jeremiah at curryclan.net Tue Oct 14 18:50:45 2008 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 18:50:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] fitting new rear brake pads TR3 Message-ID: <546CAE94DE874208B4724B467D831E83@media> Howdy all, I recently bought new brake pads for my TR3 (TS16641) but when I fit them, I can't get the drum back on, even when adjusting all of the way in. If I re-fit the old pads, the fit is fine. Is there some trick to getting these on? Thanks, Jeremiah From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 14 19:44:56 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:44:56 EDT Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 ignition problems Message-ID: In a message dated 10/14/2008 6:15:09 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Before I stick a fork in the TR6 I want to put in a new set of well gapped > Bosch Platinum Plus plugs. > > You rich guys go for all the dazzle! ;-) Dave ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 14 19:46:03 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:46:03 EDT Subject: [TR] 71 TR6 ignition problems Message-ID: In a message dated 10/14/2008 6:15:09 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > Before I stick a fork in the TR6 I want to put in a new set of well gapped > Bosch Platinum Plus plugs. > > BTW, I got the TR3 painted to the color you provided and it is a perfect match. Now all I gotta do is find all the parts I took off. Dave ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 14 19:48:26 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:48:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Fwd: TR250 Issues Message-ID: In a message dated 10/14/2008 6:48:12 PM Central Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: > On to the next problem child. The TR250'S ignition idiot light likes to > shine. No apparent reason, the original Lucas alternator should be in good > > shape. Part substitution of the external voltage regulator has no effect? Time to flash the generator field again. Oh, wait, that has an early alternator. It might be the diode assembly. Or the brushes. Dave ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Tue Oct 14 20:15:11 2008 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 22:15:11 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Message-ID: I recently purchased a '72 GT6 (drove it home from Ozark, MO Saturday) and need some advice/info. The car has what seems to be a non stock coil (with external ballast) and a bad vacuum retard unit. Any idea which coil set up is stock and where I can find a retard unit? Other than that it is pretty much all original. Any help would be appreciated and there will be more questions to follow!!! TIA Sam Clark **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Oct 14 20:34:15 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 22:34:15 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Message-ID: In a message dated 10/14/2008 10:15:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TRDOCTOR at aol.com writes: I recently purchased a '72 GT6 (drove it home from Ozark, MO Saturday) and need some advice/info. The car has what seems to be a non stock coil (with external ballast) and a bad vacuum retard unit. Any idea which coil set up is stock and where I can find a retard unit? Other than that it is pretty much all original. Any help would be appreciated and there will be more questions to follow!!! ==AM== Sam, I can't help on the vacuum unit, but a '72 GT6 would've had an external ballast resistor as original, along with a 6v Lucas (originally) coil. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Oct 14 20:50:46 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 22:50:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <48F52246.932.2974F57B@localhost> On 14 Oct 2008 at 22:15, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > ...and where I can find a retard unit? Try http://www.spitbits.com Note that the vacuum retard is not strictly necessary for running. It was part of the emissions control, and operated at idle only. If the rest of the emissions gear isn't in place and functional that retard may not be doing much. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From cartr4a at ameritech.net Tue Oct 14 21:13:42 2008 From: cartr4a at ameritech.net (Jim) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 20:13:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] GT6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <511062.62731.qm@web80201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The vacuum advance/retard units are not easy to find. I searched for years to find a working one without any luck. The retard side was used to decrease idle speed to reduce emissions, it's not needed. The important thing is to time the ignition as though the retard isn't there (actually, it isn't). Instead of timing my GT6 MKI at 4 degrees ATDC (recommended setting with the retard), it's timed at 8 degrees BTDC. Jim 1968 GT6 MKI http://www.geocities.com/britishiron2000 --- On Tue, 10/14/08, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com Subject: [TR] GT6 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, October 14, 2008, 9:15 PM I recently purchased a '72 GT6 (drove it home from Ozark, MO Saturday) and need some advice/info. The car has what seems to be a non stock coil (with external ballast) and a bad vacuum retard unit. Any idea which coil set up is stock and where I can find a retard unit? Other than that it is pretty much all original. Any help would be appreciated and there will be more questions to follow!!! TIA Sam Clark From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Tue Oct 14 21:31:13 2008 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 23:31:13 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Message-ID: Note that the vacuum retard is not strictly necessary for running. It was part of the emissions control, and operated at idle only. If the rest of the emissions gear isn't in place and functional that retard may not be doing much. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ Thanks, Jim. Shipwrights disease is creeping in. I see so much that could be done. It is perfectly drivable as is but has so much potential. The concours bug is just in my genome (and my wife's). I need my meds. . . . **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Tue Oct 14 21:35:36 2008 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 23:35:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Re GT6 Message-ID: The important thing is to time the ignition as though the retard isn't there (actually, it isn't). Instead of timing my GT6 MKI at 4 degrees ATDC (recommended setting with the retard), it's timed at 8 degrees BTDC. Jim 1968 GT6 MKI Thanks, Jim. I just like things to be as they left the factory. The car needs a tune up as it runs fine and starts fine but doesn't accelerate as it should. Thanks for the advise. Sam **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From bberger720 at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 14 22:11:14 2008 From: bberger720 at sbcglobal.net (Berger Bob) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 23:11:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stromberg Vacuum Ports - Follow-Up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All, The suggestions I recieved were that the port on the bottom of the Stromberg should have vacuum at idle and that the retard unit would be fine if disabled. I took the air cleaner off this evening and here is what I found - the port is indeed on the engine side of the butterfly valve and when the car is idling I can feel suction on my finger when I hold it over the port, the suction goes away when I ran the idle up. I set the timing to 10deg BTDC but I haven't taken it out for a drive yet. I'm planning on butting a screw into the port on the carb to cap this off. Berger Bob 78 Spitfire St. Louis, MO On Oct 12, 2008, at 7:02 PM, Greg Rowe wrote: > From the handful of carbs that I've seen, the bottom connection > is ported vacuum and the upper one is manifold vacuum, but my > expereince is hardly comprehensive so take it with a grain of > salt. Probably the most sensible thing to do is either hook > up a vacuum gauge or if you don't have a vacuum gauge, hook up > a timing light and check the timing at idle and at 3000 rpms with and > without the vacuum line to the dizzy connected. That will quickly > show you if the retard is operating as it should. > > The other question in my mind is why you would even want > vacuum retard, IMHO leaving it unplugged is the most sensible > option. > > Greg Rowe > 79 Spitfire > Hatfield PA > > --- In nass at yahoogroups.com, Berger Bob wrote: > > > > All, > > > > The single Stromberg carb I have on my car has the vacuum port on > the > > bottom. Is this a port that will have vacuum at idle? or at speed? > > > > This carb is not original to my car. The distributor is original > and > > I have an original Opus ignition that works, I'm just trying to > > figure out if this vacuum port will work with the stock vacuum > retard > > unit. > > > > I currently have this disconnected and the timing set to 10deg > Before > > TDC. > > > > Thanks for your help. > > > > Berger Bob > > 78 Spitfire > > St. Louis, MO > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > __._,_.___ > Messages in this topic (10)Reply (via web post) | Start a new topic > Messages | Files | Photos | Links | Database | Members | Calendar > >> To unsubscribe send an empty email to: nass- > unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com > >> NASS Home Site nasshq resources http://www.nasshq.org > >> Full Membership details: http://www.nasshq.org/docs/memberapp.html > > Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) > Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch > format to Traditional > Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe > RECENT ACTIVITY > 4 > New Members > 5 > New Photos > Visit Your Group > Health Zone > Look your best! > Groups to help you > look & feel great. > Healthy Living > Learn to live life > to the fullest > on Yahoo! Groups. > Yahoo! Groups > Cat Zone > Connect w/ others > who love cats. > . > > __,_._,___ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 14 22:37:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:37:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081015043731.QZJH649.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > where I can find a retard unit? You might try calling around to the local full line auto parts stores (not the discount chains) and see if they can get your unit rebuilt for you. I did that many years ago with my TR3A (back when original style units were not available new) and was very pleased with the result. Unfortunately that particular store is out of business but Clark's Auto in Bellflower, CA said they could do it too. The price was comparable to a new (incorrect) vacuum unit. Randall From thebujas at comcast.net Wed Oct 15 00:23:31 2008 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 01:23:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans-America Stag status In-Reply-To: Message-ID: If you're curious on how the TTA Stag project is coming along, visit http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ for a couple of photos on the current status of the project. The ISOA volunteers and draftees should be finishing up the bodywork this weekend, and if everything goes well, Uncle Jack should be wearing Sapphire Blue by Sunday evening. If you're in the Chicagoland area this weekend and want to help with what we'll be doing in the far western suburbs, go to the ISOA website at http://www.snic-braaapp.org This weekend's TTA Stag work session is listed an event with a map link to the festivities on the home page. Full details are at http://www.snic-braaapp.org/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=14 Tim Buja - Rockford, IL From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed Oct 15 04:51:58 2008 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 06:51:58 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Spark Plugs Message-ID: Does the 2L 6cyl. use the same heat range spark plug as the 2.5L? TIA Sam **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 15 05:34:51 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 07:34:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re GT6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <48F59D1B.19752.2B54C777@localhost> On 14 Oct 2008 at 23:35, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > The car needs a tune up as it runs fine and starts fine but > doesn't accelerate as it should. It makes me wonder - what exactly is wrong with the vacuum retard unit. Is it leaking? If so you shouldn't leave it connected to the carb. Is it stuck? At what point is the timing set, with or without the retard in place? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 15 06:43:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 05:43:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Re GT6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081015124311.UOQS649.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > The car > needs a tune up as it runs fine and starts fine but doesn't > accelerate as it should. Just to echo what Jim already said; the vacuum retard should have nothing to do with how the car accelerates. It is active only at idle. The only benefit is a small reduction in HC and CO emissions, at the expense of increased CO2 emissions and fuel consumption. If it is making a difference off-idle, it may be connected wrong. Randall No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.8.0/1726 - Release Date: 10/15/2008 7:29 AM From ABosonetto at aol.com Wed Oct 15 06:45:32 2008 From: ABosonetto at aol.com (ABosonetto at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 08:45:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Handicap shifting Message-ID: On Aug 11 i had a stroke that left me with no movement on my left side . i am looking for a way to shift gears on my 1963 TR4 with overdrive. thanks Al Bosonetto **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From pethier at comcast.net Wed Oct 15 06:59:25 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 12:59:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] Handicap shifting Message-ID: <101520081259.25802.48F5E92D000A3CBB000064CA22165548869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: ABosonetto at aol.com > On Aug 11 i had a stroke that left me with no movement on my left side . I'm sorry for your trouble. >i > am looking for a way to shift gears on my 1963 TR4 with overdrive. Most obvious is to fit an automatic transmission. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Oct 15 07:19:56 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 08:19:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Handicap shifting References: Message-ID: <8FCFD8932AE14454A9D2FF21DE277C05@KARL> Al - I'm not certain he can help you, but I am certain he'll try. John Bevins is an Amphicar and Harley driver, and a parapalegic. He builds hand controls for motorcycles, and did the same thing for his Amphicar [Mandatory Triumph content: Amphicars use Herald engines]. I haven't corresponded with him for several years, but he's a great and talented guy. I'll forward this to him too. Here's the contact info I have for him. If it's not current, I'm sure I can find him through the Amphicar group. John Bevins E-mail Address(es): Fishbone at Amphicar.net Colo_FrontRange at NetZero.com Karl > On Aug 11 i had a stroke that left me with no movement on my left side . i > am looking for a way to shift gears on my 1963 TR4 with overdrive. > thanks Al Bosonetto From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Wed Oct 15 08:34:55 2008 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 10:34:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Crankcase venting pipe Message-ID: Hi all, Finally after 5 years of restoration my TR4 is on the road. What fun! I do have a question for the list. I neglected to notice during my engine build that my crankcase venting hole (where the funny shaped pipe goes) has been plugged with what looks like a freeze plug of sorts. I subsequently have a light breeze of air puffing out from underneath my crappy cork valve cover gasket. I don't mind the slight bit of oil spray on my distributor & have since ordered a silicone valve cover gasket, but I am wondering what is the best thing to do? I can probably seal up my valve cover gasket & have air puff out of my vented filler cap, but I am not sure if this is good. I think the natural air flow is for air to come in from the vented cap , thru the motor & out the crankcase vent pipe. Do I risk trying to get the plug out, trying not to drill out any metal shavings into my crankcase? I know there have been some PCV discussions before but I am unclear on what the conclusions were. I also see some fancy catch cans out there that sure look nice ( but may be unnecessary for a road car) Is there any harm I can do to running it the way it is? The motor idles great & runs strong as it is, but I don't want to impose any harm. Thanks as always, John D From trdoctor at aol.com Wed Oct 15 09:13:21 2008 From: trdoctor at aol.com (trdoctor at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 11:13:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re GT6 In-Reply-To: <20081015124311.UOQS649.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <8CAFCEFB1E6DBD6-C00-5F0@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> I understand the pricipals of the retard and realise that it does nothing off - idle.? The engine just doesn't rev as it should. Sam -----Original Message----- From: Randall To: TRDOCTOR at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 7:43 am Subject: RE: [TR] Re GT6 > The car > needs a tune up as it runs fine and starts fine but doesn't > accelerate as it should. Just to echo what Jim already said; the vacuum retard should have nothing to do with how the car accelerates. It is active only at idle. The only benefit is a small reduction in HC and CO emissions, at the expense of increased CO2 emissions and fuel consumption. If it is making a difference off-idle, it may be connected wrong. Randall No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.8.0/1726 - Release Date: 10/15/2008 7:29 AM From trdoctor at aol.com Wed Oct 15 09:35:35 2008 From: trdoctor at aol.com (trdoctor at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 11:35:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission Message-ID: <8CAFCF2CD48C7EF-C00-7C6@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> Does anyone know if the Spitfire and GT6 transmissions are the same and use the same overdrive? TIA Sam From spitlist at cox.net Wed Oct 15 09:55:47 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 08:55:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission In-Reply-To: <8CAFCF2CD48C7EF-C00-7C6@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CAFCF2CD48C7EF-C00-7C6@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <845DBE578BB94299936D6721669397BF@newcomputer> It all depends on which Spit gearbox you are comparing it to. The GT6 boxes are 3 rail design which was dropped in the later Spits in favor of the single rail. Comparing with the MkIV gearbox which uses the full synchro 3-rail, it is basically the same box that was used in the GT6 but with different gear ratios. The GT6 has a closer ratio selection of gears than the Spit box. Also, the input shaft is much larger in diameter and longer than the one used in a Spitfire. The D Type OD unit was used on all Spit Boxes up until the early 1500 models when it was replaced by the J type. The GT6 uses the D type OD throughout but theoretically you could implant a J type if you can find a 3-rail full synchro Spit box with a J-type and use the main shaft and adapter for the J Type and implant them onto a GT6 box. However, I would expect the main difficulty would be in actually finding one of these combinations to start with. It should be noted that the GT6 boxes are highly desired by Spitfire racers because of their gear ratio. To adapt a GT6 box, the input shaft is cut down and a different clutch plate is used to fit the 10 spline 1" shaft. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of trdoctor at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 8:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission Does anyone know if the Spitfire and GT6 transmissions are the same and use the same overdrive? TIA Sam This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Oct 15 10:14:39 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 12:14:39 EDT Subject: [TR] Re GT6 Message-ID: In a message dated 10/15/2008 10:14:21 AM Central Daylight Time, trdoctor at aol.com writes: > I understand the pricipals of the retard and realise that it does nothing > off - idle.? The engine just doesn't rev as it should. > Check the throttle linkage and verify you get full throttle opening. Check the centrifugal advance and verify it is not frozen or completely loose. Check the exhaust system and make sure it is not partially blocked. Then check general tune-up stuff. Timing, compression, the usual. Good luck Dave ************** New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 15 11:01:47 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 13:01:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Re GT6 Message-ID: <20081015130147.BOZ31754@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Sam wrote: > I understand the pricipals of the retard and realise that > it does nothing off - idle.? The engine just doesn't rev > as it should. Here's the possibility. Suppose your "retard" isn't, maybe because it is leaking or becaue it is stuck or because the port on the carb really isn't the right one for at-idle retard (due to DPO "re-arrangement"), or whatever. If you set the timing as spec'ed for when it is operating properly, the timing will be at least 10 degrees too late. Acceleration will be, umm (yawn), err, a bit oh I don't know, maybe (yawn) leisurely. So here's a procedure to try. If you little patience, then just jump to the last paragraph below. Put a timing light on it, make sure it is idling at a reaonable slow speed, then pull the air tube off the vacuum unit. This *should* do two things, introduce an air leak and make the timing jump forward about 10 deg. What happens and what you do next will depend on what the engine does. If nothing at all changes in the idle and the timing doesn't move, then your retard unit isn't working. The likely reason is that the diaphram or the air tube is split; you know this because you just introduced an air leak and it made no difference. Seal off the end of the air tube with your finger and see if anything changes. If the diaphram is split but the air tube is okay, that should seal the air leak and at least do something to the idle. (Whether it helps or hurts may depend on how well other things like mixture and timing are set or whether someone has already mis-set them to compensate for the problem.) So back the question of what happens when you pulled the air tube off the vacuum unit. It could be (though I'd say it is unlikely) that the retard unit is stuck, perhaps within the dizzy, but the diaphram and air tube are okay. If so then pulling that tube *should* have introduced a leak and made the idle change at least a little. You really don't want to run with that air leak. Plug it if necessary, reset the mixture if necessary before judging the performance. The real question is what your timing is with the retard unit's air tube attached vs. detached. It should be about 8deg BTDC if the retard unit is non-functional, and 4deg ATDC with it functional. I'm pulling these timing figures from memory so they may be a bit off. But the transition between low single-digits After and upwards of 10 Before TDC should be unambiguous. So just set the timing to match whatever state your retard unit actually is. -- Jim Muller From trdoctor at aol.com Wed Oct 15 11:14:39 2008 From: trdoctor at aol.com (trdoctor at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 13:14:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission In-Reply-To: <845DBE578BB94299936D6721669397BF@newcomputer> References: <8CAFCF2CD48C7EF-C00-7C6@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> <845DBE578BB94299936D6721669397BF@newcomputer> Message-ID: <8CAFD00A458C544-1310-6B@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> Thanks for the information, Joe.? I appreciate it.? The gearbox is noisy in 1-3 and quiet in fourth.? It also can't be rushed into 2nd or it will bark the synchro.? It downshifts just fine which is puzzling.? Usually they are just the opposite. Sam -----Original Message----- From: Joe Curry To: trdoctor at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 10:55 am Subject: RE: [TR] GT6 Transmission It all depends on which Spit gearbox you are comparing it to. The GT6 boxes are 3 rail design which was dropped in the later Spits in favor of the single rail. Comparing with the MkIV gearbox which uses the full synchro 3-rail, it is basically the same box that was used in the GT6 but with different gear ratios. The GT6 has a closer ratio selection of gears than the Spit box. Also, the input shaft is much larger in diameter and longer than the one used in a Spitfire. The D Type OD unit was used on all Spit Boxes up until the early 1500 models when it was replaced by the J type. The GT6 uses the D type OD throughout but theoretically you could implant a J type if you can find a 3-rail full synchro Spit box with a J-type and use the main shaft and adapter for the J Type and implant them onto a GT6 box. However, I would expect the main difficulty would be in actually finding one of these combinations to start with. It should be noted that the GT6 boxes are highly desired by Spitfire racers because of their gear ratio. To adapt a GT6 box, the input shaft is cut down and a different clutch plate is used to fit the 10 spline 1" shaft. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of trdoctor at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 8:36 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission Does anyone know if the Spitfire and GT6 transmissions are the same and use the same overdrive? TIA Sam This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 15 11:16:21 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 13:16:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission Message-ID: <20081015131621.BOZ35783@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote: > Comparing with the MkIV gearbox which uses the full synchro > 3-rail, it is basically the same box that was used in the > GT6 but with different gear ratios. The GT6 has a closer > ratio selection of gears than the Spit box. It was my understanding too that they beefed/hardened up the gearing and diff for the GT6's higher torque. I mention this only because the question smelled like someone hoping to drop a Spitfire gearbox into a GT6. Others may disagree but it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. The GT6 gearing is unique and part of its charm. 3rd and 4th are close together, redline in 2nd is 65mph, redline in 3rd is 96mph, etc. Not that I ever quite push mine to redline but the available speed headroom in but 2nd and 3rd are (ahem) useful. > Also, the input shaft is much larger in diameter and > longer than the one used in a Spitfire. As a practical matter, this means that a Spitfire clutch alignment tool won't work with a GT6 clutch! -- Jim Muller '80 Spitfire '70 GT6 From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 15 11:31:46 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 13:31:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission Message-ID: <20081015133146.BOZ40193@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Same observed: > The gearbox is noisy in 1-3 and quiet in fourth.? It also > can't be rushed into 2nd or it will bark the synchro.? It > downshifts just fine which is puzzling. Ah, they all end up making noise and acting strange in one way or another. Which is not to say that you shouldn't investigate when you get the chance. Just remember, it is a GT, not a dragster nor a roadster. There is one more thing you should be aware of if you plan to start swapping GT6 and Spitfire transmissions. The factory played games with the GT6 diff ratio. In the US a GT6 with overdrive came with a lower diff, i.e. a higher number. The premise was that you didn't need the higher gearing of the OD after all, so they gave you lower overall gearing. European GT6's came with the same (higher geared) diff whether it had OD or not. Of course you can use whichever combination you like, but you'll need to swap in the correct speedometer gearing too. And of course the driveshaft will be different for the OD. On a later Spitfire the rear engine mount is different too; I don't know about the GT6 because I've never installed OD in one. -- Jim Muller From spitlist at cox.net Wed Oct 15 11:49:08 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 10:49:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission In-Reply-To: <20081015131621.BOZ35783@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20081015131621.BOZ35783@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <520A4A4E77D54B2A9D93C389ACFABE17@newcomputer> Diff aside, the basic box is the same as the full synchro MkIV Spit. The differences are that all the gear ratios changed and the input shaft is longer and beefier for the GT6. The cases and main shafts as well as a few other bits are interchangeable but have different gears and input shafts. If the gears are beefier, I haven't seen anything that says so but it certainly makes sense. But since the basic boxes share a common design, they suffer from the same problems. Putting a Spit box into a GT6 is quite impossible since the input shaft is fat too short to span the depth of the GT6's bell housing. And it would be folly to try and use the spit bell housing because the Spit clutch would be way inadequate to handle the torque of the 6. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jimmuller at rcn.com Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 10:16 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 Transmission Joe "Fluif" Curry wrote: > Comparing with the MkIV gearbox which uses the full synchro > 3-rail, it is basically the same box that was used in the > GT6 but with different gear ratios. The GT6 has a closer > ratio selection of gears than the Spit box. It was my understanding too that they beefed/hardened up the gearing and diff for the GT6's higher torque. I mention this only because the question smelled like someone hoping to drop a Spitfire gearbox into a GT6. Others may disagree but it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. The GT6 gearing is unique and part of its charm. 3rd and 4th are close together, redline in 2nd is 65mph, redline in 3rd is 96mph, etc. Not that I ever quite push mine to redline but the available speed headroom in but 2nd and 3rd are (ahem) useful. > Also, the input shaft is much larger in diameter and > longer than the one used in a Spitfire. As a practical matter, this means that a Spitfire clutch alignment tool won't work with a GT6 clutch! -- Jim Muller '80 Spitfire '70 GT6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 15 15:00:45 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 14:00:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] Re GT6 In-Reply-To: <8CAFCEFB1E6DBD6-C00-5F0@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> References: <20081015124311.UOQS649.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> <8CAFCEFB1E6DBD6-C00-5F0@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <54AE457BD05942A7A8F6D2CA37CCB9B7@jdnet.deere.com> > I understand the pricipals of the retard and realise that it does nothing > off - idle. The engine just doesn't rev as it should. And my point is that IMO you should be looking elsewhere for the cause of that. Assuming of course that you've already done as Jim mentioned : set the initial timing to the "static" value given in the book (10 BTDC as I recall). Have you checked that the centrifugal advance is working? Randall From Loumetelko at aol.com Wed Oct 15 15:04:30 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 17:04:30 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 Crankcase venting pipe Message-ID: John: The TR4 will have either the funny shaped vent tube on the left side of the engine or a tube coming out of the right side of the valve cover. That tube would feed the engine gases back to the air cleaners. According to Piggott (disputed by many as too early) the change came with engine number CT21471E. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** BUY Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull on DVD today! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1209326865x1200539441/aol?redir=http://www.indianajones.com/site/index.html) From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Oct 15 15:11:32 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 14:11:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine # Message-ID: Looking for the engine number change over from early to late TR6 ... Specifically manifold gasket. Thanks for the help -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Oct 15 15:15:44 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 17:15:44 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 514 Message-ID: John D, Congrats on getting your resto on the road! IMO for the first 23,000 TR4s or so I would go with the totally 'open-breather' setup as the factory did for TR3s and most TR4s. Filtered air drawn through 'gauzed oil cap', and crankcase gases drawn from draft tube under car are left behind (you might smell a little old-fashioned sportcar fumes at a long stop light though!) The original design provides internal engine cross-drafting, helping cool engine and of course relieving pressure. If you want to reduce crankcase fumes into atmosphere you might consider getting the late TR4 smog set-up - it draws gas from inside valve cover to carbs (admitting air through a pin-hole in oil cap since the draft port is plugged), but you forfeit engine's internal cross-drafting system. Some TR4A folks simply dump the SMITH's smog gear and drop a rubber hose from valve cover to below the engine, it does let pressure out (and fumes into atmosphere). TR draft tubes come up on eBay a few times a year. Loosening the crankcase draft plug with a chisel or screwdriver or auger would enable you to grab edge and/or draw out with magnet. Add a little gasket sealer at draft tube/crankcase connection. Oil drip from end of draft tube should be minor or non existent if you have good piston rings. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 << I think the natural air flow is for air to come in from the vented cap , thru the motor & out the crankcase vent pipe. Do I risk trying to get the plug out, >>


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New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Oct 15 15:30:14 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 14:30:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine # In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: 213641 to CC75000, GEG682 after that. Take care, Bill On Oct 15, 2008, at 2:11 PM, Bill & AnnaBelle wrote: > Looking for the engine number change over from early to late TR6 ... > Specifically manifold gasket. > > Thanks for the help > > > -- > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 TS16765L > aka > Casper > > AnnaBelle Pugh > 1970 TR6 CC59179L > aka > Rosey > Wallace, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbmcleod at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Oct 15 15:31:50 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 15:31:50 Subject: [TR] GT6 Transmission In-Reply-To: <8CAFCF2CD48C7EF-C00-7C6@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20081015153150.18f76df0@pop.west.cox.net> The short answer is yes and no - mostly no. The 3 rail case itself is the same (I am assuming that is what we are discussing here) The tail shaft and a few internal components are the same, as well as the shift rail assy. The shift lever is different, as well as the transmission input shaft (different length, splines) and the gears are different (ratios, layshaft) The bearings are all the same, as well as the syncros - the overdrive and adaptor are also the same - ************************original message************************* At 11:35 AM 10/15/2008 -0400, you wrote: >Does anyone know if the Spitfire and GT6 transmissions are the same and use the same overdrive? > Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Wed Oct 15 15:24:27 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 15:24:27 Subject: [TR] Re GT6 In-Reply-To: <8CAFCEFB1E6DBD6-C00-5F0@mblk-d35.sysops.aol.com> References: <20081015124311.UOQS649.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20081015152427.18f727b2@pop.west.cox.net> You might want to check the exhaust, just to see if things aren't clogged up a bit. Excessive back pressure here will cause the symptoms you describe - *****************Original Message*************************************** >I understand the pricipals of the retard and realise that it does nothing off - idle.? The engine just doesn't rev as it should. > Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 15 18:58:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 17:58:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] fitting new rear brake pads TR3 In-Reply-To: <546CAE94DE874208B4724B467D831E83@media> References: <546CAE94DE874208B4724B467D831E83@media> Message-ID: <2995D51526C5492197E964F44374E4F5@jdnet.deere.com> > I recently bought new brake pads for my TR3 (TS16641) but when I fit them, > I > can't get the drum back on, even when adjusting all of the way in. If I > re-fit the old pads, the fit is fine. Is there some trick to getting > these on? Only a few points, and they are kind of obvious : Make sure the adjuster wedges are actually retracting into the housing when you unscrew (turn CCW) the adjustment screw. Sometimes they get stuck. Make sure the slave cylinder can slide (with some force) on the backing plate. You may need to experiment a bit to get it in the right position, and they sometimes corrode in place. Also compare the shoes carefully to be sure you have the right ones. Your car should have 10" Girling rear brakes, but earlier TR3s came with 10" Lockheed brakes, and they take different shoes. It's also not unusual to find conversions, so your car may not have the same brakes as the books show. And of course make sure the shoes are seating into the slots they belong in. It is possible that the new shoes are too thick, but I've not experienced that myself. You might try calling around, to see if someone in your area can finish them to match your drums (which used to be known as 'arcing' the shoes and was a standard part of a good brake job). If not, and you are absolutely certain they are too thick, some work with a moderately coarse metal file should solve the problem. Randall From jeremiah at curryclan.net Wed Oct 15 20:34:11 2008 From: jeremiah at curryclan.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 20:34:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] fitting new rear brake pads TR3 In-Reply-To: <2995D51526C5492197E964F44374E4F5@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <9181E88DF6C046D6A05622A9E3304BD6@screamer> Thanks everyone who has replied. I checked with Moss and the part I have 585-020 should be correct for my car and after comparing to the old pads, they are very close in shape and the same size. But if I place them in the drums, they don't fit together quite as well as the old ones, but it is close. I don't think they are an inch off and since the car has been sitting since 69, I think everything is original except a TR3a front clip. The adjusters do come all the way together I replaced the wheel cylinders so those definitely slide easily I checked multiple times that the shoes fit in the grooves and emergency brake is not set. Maybe I just need to grind the shoes down on the edges or file the shoe surfaces. Thanks again, Jeremaih -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 6:59 PM To: 'Jeremiah Curry'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] fitting new rear brake pads TR3 > I recently bought new brake pads for my TR3 (TS16641) but when I fit > them, I can't get the drum back on, even when adjusting all of the way > in. If I re-fit the old pads, the fit is fine. Is there some trick > to getting these on? Only a few points, and they are kind of obvious : Make sure the adjuster wedges are actually retracting into the housing when you unscrew (turn CCW) the adjustment screw. Sometimes they get stuck. Make sure the slave cylinder can slide (with some force) on the backing plate. You may need to experiment a bit to get it in the right position, and they sometimes corrode in place. Also compare the shoes carefully to be sure you have the right ones. Your car should have 10" Girling rear brakes, but earlier TR3s came with 10" Lockheed brakes, and they take different shoes. It's also not unusual to find conversions, so your car may not have the same brakes as the books show. And of course make sure the shoes are seating into the slots they belong in. It is possible that the new shoes are too thick, but I've not experienced that myself. You might try calling around, to see if someone in your area can finish them to match your drums (which used to be known as 'arcing' the shoes and was a standard part of a good brake job). If not, and you are absolutely certain they are too thick, some work with a moderately coarse metal file should solve the problem. Randall From jat1127 at hotmail.com Thu Oct 16 04:50:37 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 06:50:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 8 distributer perfect fix Message-ID: Ladies and Gents, I use my TR 8 DHC going when/where I wish and do not consider the distributer a service issue since I swapped the Lucas unit for a Mallory some 80,000 miles ago. When I bought the Mallory unit I did purchase a spare module and it has stayed in the trunks toll bag. Seems a good way around a lingering issue. John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Store, manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live SkyDrive. http://skydrive.live.com/welcome.aspx?provision=1?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_ 102008 From eoot at citlink.net Thu Oct 16 08:14:06 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 10:14:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick Update References: <20081014161346.BOX16648@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <001b01c92f99$73ba49e0$640a0a0a@WANDERER> Had an opportunity to check this out last evening. The tick frequency does not increase/decrease with either engine RPM or road speed. It is coming from the front, not the rear. It is more noticeable in 3rd and 4th than in 1st or 2nd gear. That said, I checked some of the suggestions made: Verified that plugs are wires were not loose. Checked Fan belt. New last year and all seemed in order. Nothing noticeable in engine bay. Timing. First retarded 6 degrees with the vernier. Test drove, and believed the tick to be less noticeable. Check that positon with the light, set the vernier back to the 3rd line, using light set the dizzy to same point as prior and then retarded at vernier another 2 degrees (all of this to allow ability to retard a bit more with the vernier). It was getting late at that point and I only made a short test drive. It seemed improved but will need to test drive a bit more to confirm. TIA Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, October 14, 2008 4:13 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick >> When applying additional throttle going up a hill the tick >> is very evident... In my hill example, once the throttle >> is decreased a bit the tick goes away. > > That's not quite what I meant by road speed vs. rpm. What you describe is > that it is louder when the drivetrain is under accelerative stress (or > non-existent when it isn't). > > What I meant can be checked only by shifting gears. Shift gears but keep > the road speed more or less constant, but try to maintain however much > acceleration is needed to make the noise show up. If the ticking > frequency speed stays about the same after you shift while you try to keep > the car moving about the same speed, then it is coming from the output > shaft of the gearbox or the diff or the rear axles, tires, etc. If the > ticking frequency changes noticeably, faster or slower according to what > the engine did, then it is coming from the engine or the gearbox input > shaft. > -- > Jim Muller > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 16 08:27:39 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 10:27:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick Update Message-ID: <20081016102739.BPB50395@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Ed observed: > The tick frequency does not increase/decrease with either > engine RPM or road speed. ? If the ticking frequency doesn't change when the engine rpm changes, then it isn't related to anything in or on the engine. If it doesn't change when the car's road speed changes then it isn't related to anything touching the road, not to wheels nor to the drivetrain from the gearbox on back. Is your heater fan clicking? Is something loose swinging back and forth? Do you have a loose hood latch? I'm being facetious. You need to re-consider your perceptions. Quite likely there is a change in frequency that correlates to something, but that correlation may be more subtle that you've been expecting. -- Jim Muller, who thinks correlations in real life and in crime novels usually happen for reasons From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Oct 16 09:55:18 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 11:55:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Interstate 80 travel in October- Iowa to Laramie,WY Message-ID: List(s): I have an empty enclosed trailer going from Jesup, IA to Laramie, WY, mostly on I-80. This would be the week of 26 October. If someone has an easy fit, there might be a win/win here. I could vary my route somewhat , depending on the circumstances. Contact me off list.... N197tr4 at cs.com (FYI: At some point in the future, I might have another trip with an empty trailer coming back from Southern California) Joe A


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New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 16 10:51:24 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 16:51:24 +0000 Subject: [TR] Interstate 80 travel in October- Iowa to Laramie,WY Message-ID: <101620081651.6419.48F7710C0005D7220000191322155538949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: N197TR4 at cs.com > I have an empty enclosed trailer going from Jesup, IA to Laramie, WY, mostly > on I-80. > > This would be the week of 26 October. I'll bet I know why. :-) You should post this on the autotransport mailing list: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/autotransport/ -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From dkspence at telus.net Thu Oct 16 12:22:48 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 12:22:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] Re TR3 Tick Tick Tick Update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <856561A2-4A1B-4624-8CB9-9D135855ECBB@telus.net> Do you have an electric fuel pump installed? On 16-Oct-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > From: "Ed Oot" > Date: October 16, 2008 8:14:06 AM MDT (CA) > To: > Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick Update > > > Had an opportunity to check this out last evening. The tick > frequency does not increase/decrease with either engine > RPM or road speed. It is coming from the front, not the rear. It is > more noticeable in 3rd and 4th than in 1st or 2nd gear. From eoot at citlink.net Thu Oct 16 12:34:42 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 14:34:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Re TR3 Tick Tick Tick Update References: <856561A2-4A1B-4624-8CB9-9D135855ECBB@telus.net> Message-ID: <00a701c92fbd$db307440$640a0a0a@WANDERER> I do not. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Spence" To: Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 2:22 PM Subject: [TR] Re TR3 Tick Tick Tick Update > Do you have an electric fuel pump installed? > > > > On 16-Oct-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > >> >> From: "Ed Oot" >> Date: October 16, 2008 8:14:06 AM MDT (CA) >> To: >> Subject: [TR] TR3 Tick Tick Tick Update >> >> >> Had an opportunity to check this out last evening. The tick >> frequency does not increase/decrease with either engine >> RPM or road speed. It is coming from the front, not the rear. It is >> more noticeable in 3rd and 4th than in 1st or 2nd gear. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lherault at bu.edu Thu Oct 16 12:42:55 2008 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 14:42:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] fitting new rear brake pads TR3 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004d01c92fbf$00fed710$a2d4299b@ad.bu.edu> This may be the key. Even though the brake is not set, I'm pretty sure you are supposed to have the emergency brake cable DIS connected. Ron L -----Original Message----- Message: 9 Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 20:34:11 -0600 From: "Jeremiah Curry" I checked multiple times that the shoes fit in the grooves and emergency brake is not set. ****** From tedtsimx at bright.net Thu Oct 16 13:14:48 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 15:14:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge line Message-ID: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net> Greetings list. There has been quite a bit of discussion recently about TR6 engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of these cars is 36 years old. Realizing the replacement line is made from finest British plastic, it seemed logical to make this line from stainless steel braid hose. So, we did. First production run is completed. Introductory price is $24.95. Price will be good until November 1st. Then it becomes $32.95 Price does not include shipping. Line ships by Priority Mail unless otherwise requested. Line fits late TR4, TR4A, TR250 and. TR6. We make other stainless lines such as brake and clutch as well as many other parts. Please check our website when you have a chance. Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From allegrorover at mac.com Thu Oct 16 15:43:53 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 17:43:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] Markings on side of block TR3A Message-ID: <040E256F-958E-4048-8C52-C9DF7A2286C5@mac.com> Hello again List, My brother in law recently bought a 59 3A and is the process of dismantling it for restoration. I remember someone on the list asking about the markings (in orange paint) on the side of the block, and that it wouldn't be a bad idea to try and maintain those markings. His has "TR3" on one side, and "BILOHROME" on the other, again both in orange paint and it looks like they were hand painted. Can someone refresh my memory on this. I'm thinking of suggesting to him to try and keep those markings for originality. I would appreciate any suggestions before I make those things more important than they are. Thanks Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Oct 16 17:31:56 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 23:31:56 +0000 Subject: [TR] GT6 Spark Plugs Message-ID: <101620082331.2737.48F7CEEC0004C78500000AB122155934149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Does the 2L 6cyl. use the same heat range spark plug as the 2.5L? Maybe, Sam. ...But not at the same time. :0) Terry New Hampshire From ms6453 at optonline.net Thu Oct 16 18:54:21 2008 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 20:54:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] replacement seat belts TR6 Message-ID: <48F7E23D.4000007@optonline.net> I interested in buying replacement seat belts from this company but the receiver stalks seem to be either to short 13" or to long 17.5". Can some one who has the securitron or similar replacements measure the stalk length from end to end (total length) http://www.gotbelts.com/relapshwbuen.html Thanks -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Oct 16 19:35:23 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 21:35:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] fender bolt Message-ID: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hi, Does anyone know the proper name of the bolt that is used to attach the fenders on the TR6 front and rear fenders. Also used on the TR4 rear fenders? I have looked at McMaster but cant find the bolt. The closest thing I could find is a lag bolt, but they say the application is wood so I figured it would be not strong enough + those bolts have a point. I would prefer stainless for my 6 project. Thanks, Bob From pethier at comcast.net Thu Oct 16 20:08:33 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 02:08:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] replacement seat belts TR6 Message-ID: <101720080208.23946.48F7F3A100051D4300005D8A22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Mitch > I interested in buying replacement seat belts from this company but the > receiver stalks seem to be either to short 13" or to long 17.5". Can > some one who has the securitron or similar replacements measure the > stalk length from end to end (total length) > http://www.gotbelts.com/relapshwbuen.html > > Thanks And thanks to you for pointing out this site to me! I found an all-way-adjustable, non-retracting, metal-lift-buckle three-point seat belt that promises to be the safest, slickest, and most-vintage-looking setup for my 1960s Lotus Seven replica. I'd go with latch-style 4-points, but there is no proper way to attach the inboard shoulder straps. On the TR4, I'm sticking with simple lap belts. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From mrv8q at aim.com Thu Oct 16 20:23:45 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 22:23:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] replacement seat belts TR6 In-Reply-To: <48F7E23D.4000007@optonline.net> References: <48F7E23D.4000007@optonline.net> Message-ID: <8CAFE1683F4F960-9A4-2C69@webmail-da04.sysops.aol.com> On my '74 w/ Kangol(?) receivers, I measure approx. 15 3/4 inches Best, Kevin Browne I interested in buying replacement seat belts from this company but the receiver stalks seem to be either to short 13" or to long 17.5". Can some one who has the securitron or similar replacements measure the stalk length from end to end (total length) http://www.gotbelts.com/relapshwbuen.html - From wbeech at flash.net Thu Oct 16 20:30:17 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 20:30:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Markings on side of block TR3A In-Reply-To: <040E256F-958E-4048-8C52-C9DF7A2286C5@mac.com> References: <040E256F-958E-4048-8C52-C9DF7A2286C5@mac.com> Message-ID: <86A96652182542B0A203549F7271C4EB@sniffer> Tony, Yes, TR3 in orange paint on the side of the block behind the starter are original Triumph markings. My '58 block was so bad that I had to have it completely boiled out and cleaned but I took some pictures and put the lettering back as closely as possible. I found that Chevrolet engine orange is real close to that original color. My understanding is that these are factory marks where they sorted the blocks for their final application. As you may know some engines went to Morgan and some into the parts replacement channels, this is why your engine number is higher than your commission number. I do not know anything about the "BILOHROME" marking, could it be BILCHROME? What I have been able to learn is that Bilchrome was a foundry, they cast engine blocks for Perkins & Massey-ferguson, Rover and probably Standard-Triumph as well. I don't know what they are called now, or if they are still producing castings., maybe someone else on the list can enlighten us all. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 3:44 PM To: email list Subject: [TR] Markings on side of block TR3A Hello again List, My brother in law recently bought a 59 3A and is the process of dismantling it for restoration. I remember someone on the list asking about the markings (in orange paint) on the side of the block, and that it wouldn't be a bad idea to try and maintain those markings. His has "TR3" on one side, and "BILOHROME" on the other, again both in orange paint and it looks like they were hand painted. Can someone refresh my memory on this. I'm thinking of suggesting to him to try and keep those markings for originality. I would appreciate any suggestions before I make those things more important than they are. Thanks Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.8.1/1727 - Release Date: 10/16/2008 7:12 PM From FGFO1 at aol.com Thu Oct 16 21:10:31 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 23:10:31 EDT Subject: [TR] fitting new rear brake pads TR3 Message-ID: Lister Paul Burrows recently had the same problem. 10" brakes, new shoes and drums from trf. I think he tried the new shoes with the old drums and they still did not fit. As I recall he filled em down to fit. Paul. Do I remember right? Frank Fisher TR3 with 10" rear brakes, that trf supplied new 3 years ago **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Oct 17 05:52:20 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 07:52:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge line References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net> <6c7087cbeb78.48f778e2@wright.edu> Message-ID: <000c01c9304e$d0324eb0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Bill keep the hoses but may be new tires could help those old red lines look a little funny on the sides ----- Original Message ----- From: "William McIntire" To: "Ted Schumacher" Cc: "TR list" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 5:24 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge line > Cheeze! If I replace that on my '70 then you're going to want me to > replace > the radiator hoses too. I mean they're only 38. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Ted Schumacher > Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008 3:17 pm > Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge > line > To: 6pack at autox.team.net, TR list > >> Greetings list. There has been quite a bit of discussion >> recently about >> TR6 engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of >> these >> cars is 36 years old. Realizing the replacement line is >> made from >> finest British plastic, it seemed logical to make this line from >> stainless steel braid hose. So, we did. First >> production run is >> completed. Introductory price is $24.95. Price will be >> good until >> November 1st. Then it becomes $32.95 Price does not >> include shipping. >> Line ships by Priority Mail unless otherwise requested. >> Line fits late >> TR4, TR4A, TR250 and. TR6. We make other stainless lines >> such as brake >> and clutch as well as many other parts. Please check >> our website when >> you have a chance. Thanks for your time. Ted >> >> -- >> Ted Schumacher >> tedtsimx at bright.net >> http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com >> 108 S. Jefferson St. >> Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 >> Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) >> Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) >> Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From ms6453 at optonline.net Fri Oct 17 05:54:42 2008 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 07:54:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6 In-Reply-To: <48F7EF9F.30908@maine.rr.com> References: <48F7E23D.4000007@optonline.net> <48F7EF9F.30908@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <48F87D02.6080000@optonline.net> Hi Dave, I have seen & been warned of some of the lower quality sets on the market. This company does not seem to be any of the ones I followed up on. Their male end that goes in to the stalk looks like it will fit the original seat belt parkers as well. The most popular low end set like this eBay item 230300304082 . I have not heard anything good about those. I'll keep checking on this unit and see what I can find. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Oct 17 08:35:34 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 10:35:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hub Question Message-ID: I would like some verification on a dimension. When I measure the part of a rear hub that projects into the brake drum I get 2.745. I am doing a project and I don't want to base my dimension based on the measurement of one set of hubs in case I happen to have the one oddball out there. Anybody have a TR6 rear hub laying around you could measure for me? Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ When your life is on the gotake your life with you. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Oct 17 08:44:49 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 14:44:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] Jag valuation? Message-ID: HI List, A Jag is British so I hope this email isn't too off topic. I have seen a nice 1973 Jag XJ6 for sale locally at a reasonable price. I have just looked around at it thus far. I have done a search on the internet and cannot find a price reference for this year Jag. Does anyone have an older cars Blue Book they could look it up in for me? Or can anyone give me an estimate of what this car should sell for from a private party? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Stay organized with simple drag and drop from Windows Live Hotmail. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 17 10:53:24 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 09:53:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] fender bolt In-Reply-To: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <51B8A7F3CAA54B4AB83CC63021D8C65B@jdnet.deere.com> > Does anyone know the proper name of the bolt that is used to attach the > fenders on the TR6 front and rear fenders. Also used on the TR4 rear > fenders? I don't believe they have a 'modern' name. They were an odd kind of sheet metal screw with ACME threads, but ACME threads are nearly obsolete now, only used in odd places like house jacks and lead screws on thread-cutting lathes. > but they say the application is wood so I figured it > would be not strong enough + those bolts have a point. In spite of ACME threads normally being stronger, I don't believe this application calls for much strength. You should be able to use almost any sheet metal thread with a similar minor diameter. However wood screws are normally tapered, which doesn't work so well in those clip nuts. > I would prefer stainless for my 6 project. Sorry, can't help there. But the ones from TRF are nicely plated, so I wouldn't think corrosion would be a problem for at least a decade or two. Randall From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Oct 17 11:00:07 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:00:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6 In-Reply-To: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02> References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02> Message-ID: On Fri, 17 Oct 2008 forzion at maine.rr.com wrote: > Mitch; > > I wonder what percentage of people use those seat belt parkers, anyway. > I didn't use them when I had my old seat belts installed and the new > Securons retract so easily, I don't miss the parkers any. Always the contrarian... I used to use my seat belt parkers all the time. One thing I really don't like about the replacement belts I got (Bemis? or something like that) is that you can't park them and the tongue is always getting jammed in the door when you try to close the door, so there's 50 dings in the there. Waddapane! > There are places to economize and places not to. Safety, for me, is one > where I don't. Again, I'd opt for eBay 120318488551 Agreed - old seat belts are as bad an idea as old tires. If you want to scrimp in either area, I can only say "It was nice knowing you". :-0 > Dave rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 17 11:18:31 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:18:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] fender bolt Message-ID: <20081017131831.BPE74713@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Randall wrote: > They were an odd kind of sheet metal screw with ACME threads, As I recall, they weren't too effective on a roadrunner, such as a Triumph might be. -- Jim (meep! meep!) Muller From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 17 11:46:27 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 10:46:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] fender bolt In-Reply-To: <20081017131831.BPE74713@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20081017131831.BPE74713@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <8D22CD4A4A0D46C9A7FC737A5C2F12EC@jdnet.deere.com> > > They were an odd kind of sheet metal screw with ACME threads, > As I recall, they weren't too effective on a roadrunner, such as a Triumph > might be. No doubt the reason they are obsolete ... never did see how that company could stay in business when all their products malfunctioned! Randall From pryner at verizon.net Fri Oct 17 11:53:40 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:53:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Jag valuation? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tom, You didn't say if it was a 2 or 4 door. Here is what NADA shows for the cars and an explination of what each Low Retail Value This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is". Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value. Note: This value does not represent a "parts car". Average Retail Value This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer". High Retail Value This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *. XJ6C 6375, 8800, 11450 XJ6L 4500, 8750, 13700 Pete ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 10:44 AM Subject: [TR] Jag valuation? > HI List, > > A Jag is British so I hope this email isn't too off topic. > > I have seen a nice 1973 Jag XJ6 for sale locally at a reasonable price. I > have just looked around at it thus far. I have done a search on the > internet > and cannot find a price reference for this year Jag. > > Does anyone have an older cars Blue Book they could look it up in for me? > Or > can anyone give me an estimate of what this car should sell for from a > private > party? > > Thanks. > > > > > Best regards, > Tom > > _________________________________________________________________ > Stay organized with simple drag and drop from Windows Live Hotmail. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pryner at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From lee at automate-it.com Fri Oct 17 12:53:32 2008 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:53:32 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] fender bolt In-Reply-To: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <2728.192.246.38.159.1224269612.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Moss Motors has these listed on their web page at $0.80 each: 322-655 $0.80 HEX HEAD ACME THREAD BOLT, fender to inner fender Note: Included in Front Fender Fitting Kit. But Moss doesn't tell you whether they have things in stock or not - when you order you get to select "Backorder OK" or not. - Lee > Does anyone know the proper name of the bolt that is used to attach the > fenders on the TR6 front and rear fenders. Also used on the TR4 rear fenders? > > I have looked at McMaster but cant find the bolt. The closest thing I could > find is a lag bolt, but they say the application is wood so I figured it > would be not strong enough + those bolts have a point. > > I would prefer stainless for my 6 project. > > Thanks, > > Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 17 14:20:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:20:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] fender bolt In-Reply-To: <2728.192.246.38.159.1224269612.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <2728.192.246.38.159.1224269612.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: > Moss Motors has these listed on their web page at $0.80 each: And TRF has them on sale for $.68 until Jan 16; which likely indicates they are in stock. UL2705 T46 SCREW,ACME,SECURING WINGS CUR C 0 $0.68 Randall From ms6453 at optonline.net Fri Oct 17 14:40:02 2008 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 16:40:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6 In-Reply-To: References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02> Message-ID: One of the problems I have with the sercurons is most people like them because they are sold as direct replacements for the originals but do not fit the seat parker. The more important fact is that no where do they state they meet any US safety standards. The model/style I have selected specifically state they do. I would be more suspect of any brand that does not comply. If I'm using it to keep my butt safe I want to see that on the label. "Meets Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards 209-302." Realistically, I just use them so I don't get a summons. The reality is, I doubt they'll do much to stop British steel from crunching my bones or a 3 ton SUV from plowing me under. Mitch From brad.kahler at 141.com Fri Oct 17 15:00:36 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 21:00:36 GMT Subject: [TR] Dimensions needed : TR4, Spitfire & TR7 Message-ID: <200810171500373.SM08524@[166.70.182.40]> Listers, We're getting ready for our move to Kentucky and I'm in need of some dimensions on the above mentioned cars. I need to know the distance from the back of the body tub (not bumper) to the center line of the rear wheels on a Spitfire and a TR4.B I need the same information on a TR7 but from the back of the rear bumper to the center line of the rear wheels. I also need to know the same dimensions for the center line of the front wheels to the front of the body (not bumper) on a TR4 and Spitfire and on the TR7 from the center line of the front wheels to the front of the bumper. Thanks! Brad From ambritts at bellsouth.net Fri Oct 17 15:42:15 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 17:42:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery Size Chart Message-ID: <00b301c930a1$39b06820$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hello all, Came across this chart of battery sizes by group reference number. Thought I would share as general FYI. http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59 TR3A From ggelhar at earthlink.net Thu Oct 16 15:53:45 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 16:53:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hub Question Message-ID: <380-220081041621534593@earthlink.net> Hi Marty, I just went out to the barn and measured my spare hubs. Mine too measure 2.745. So, did Triumph have quality control? I'll be interested in the replies of others. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . > Subject: [TR] TR6 Hub Question > > I would like some verification on a dimension. When I measure the part of a > rear hub that projects into the brake drum I get 2.745. I am doing a project > and I don't want to base my dimension based on the measurement of one set of > hubs in case I happen to have the one oddball out there. Anybody have a TR6 > rear hub laying around you could measure for me? > > Thanks, > Marty From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Oct 17 17:07:36 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 00:07:36 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR6 Hub Question References: <380-220081041621534593@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <082b01c930ad$26308800$0201a8c0@Bevan> Greg Gelhar wrote: So, did Triumph have quality control? I'll be interested in the > replies of others. Yes, it did. My late father was in charge of it - up to 1962. Jonmac From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Fri Oct 17 19:22:10 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 21:22:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Markings on side of block TR3A In-Reply-To: <040E256F-958E-4048-8C52-C9DF7A2286C5@mac.com> References: <040E256F-958E-4048-8C52-C9DF7A2286C5@mac.com> Message-ID: <3A52115FB118476AB160A4F0059518BC@Scott> My '59 TR3A had the orange TR3 on the block below the manifold. I have never heard of the other marking, though. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 5:44 PM To: email list Subject: [TR] Markings on side of block TR3A Hello again List, My brother in law recently bought a 59 3A and is the process of dismantling it for restoration. I remember someone on the list asking about the markings (in orange paint) on the side of the block, and that it wouldn't be a bad idea to try and maintain those markings. His has "TR3" on one side, and "BILOHROME" on the other, again both in orange paint and it looks like they were hand painted. Can someone refresh my memory on this. I'm thinking of suggesting to him to try and keep those markings for originality. I would appreciate any suggestions before I make those things more important than they are. Thanks Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com _______________________________________________ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Oct 17 23:32:15 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 05:32:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] Stowage of jack and handle? Message-ID: I have a TR3A and the jack and lug wrench for it. I think the jack and lug wrench are supposed to be belted to the side of the spare tire compartment with the little leather belt. When I try to do this they are left loose in the belt and will rattle around. Is there something that is supposed to be there with them? If not can someone direct me to a photo of the proper installation for them. Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ You live life beyond your PC. So now Windows goes beyond your PC. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 18 06:48:11 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 08:48:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stowage of jack and handle? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200810180848.11485.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 18 October 2008 01:32:15 tom white wrote: > I have a TR3A and the jack and lug wrench for it. I think the jack and lug > wrench are supposed to be belted to the side of the spare tire compartment > with the little leather belt. When I try to do this they are left loose in > the belt and will rattle around. > > Is there something that is supposed to be there with them? If not can > someone direct me to a photo of the proper installation for them. > > Thanks. > > > Best regards, > Tom Tom, It is not correct, I am sure, but I use a shop towel wrapped around the jack and handle then strapped to the side with a belt from TRF. I believe there was some sort of pouch but they dont seem to be available. The only one who knows this is me so what the heck? Bob From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Oct 18 09:49:05 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 11:49:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting Question Message-ID: <016801c93139$0efc6a50$6401a8c0@STATION6> Got a question on a self starting issue with my 59 TR3A. In the past few months it appeared that I cooked my battery. I needed to work on the 3 today so I pulled my TR6 battery and put it in my TR3. Upon connecting the cables, I quickly discovered that the car turned over on it's own with the ignition key off. First blush is a bad ignition switch or solenoid/starter switch. Any thoughts appreciated. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat Oct 18 10:03:40 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 12:03:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Starting Question In-Reply-To: <016801c93139$0efc6a50$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <016801c93139$0efc6a50$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: Got a question on a self starting issue with my 59 TR3A. In the past few> months it appeared that I cooked my battery. I needed to work on the 3 today> so I pulled my TR6 battery and put it in my TR3. Upon connecting the cables, I> quickly discovered that the car turned over on it's own with the ignition key> off. First blush is a bad ignition switch or solenoid/starter switch. Any> thoughts appreciated.> Alex Manzo> 59 TR3A> 72 TR6 Starter solenoid stuck closed. John From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Oct 18 10:03:46 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:03:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Starting Question In-Reply-To: <016801c93139$0efc6a50$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <20081018160346.NLSQ2525.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Upon connecting the cables, I quickly > discovered that the car turned over on it's own with the > ignition key off. First blush is a bad ignition switch or > solenoid/starter switch. Any thoughts appreciated. Doubt it's the switches, since both the ignition switch and the starter switch would both have to have failed closed. So I would be looking at the solenoid first. To double-check, you can remove the small wire from the solenoid and try again. Randall From FGFO1 at aol.com Sat Oct 18 13:19:59 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 15:19:59 EDT Subject: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates Message-ID: Shameless self promotion. IM back in production with fuel pump blank off plates for all our cars. contact me off list if you would like one Frank Fisher TR3 TS41366L **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat Oct 18 14:14:43 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 16:14:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1 hour TR2 Jabbeke Speed trials Message-ID: <020501c9315e$2b363730$6401a8c0@STATION6> Don't know how many have seen this but I just found it myself. It's a 1 hour video of the Jabbeke TR2 Speed trials held on May 20, 1953. I have only seen 6 minutes of it has I am trying to get my TR3 up to speed today. LOL So if you have not seen it enjoy. Appears things were a little different back then. http://www.leechvideo.com/video/view452802.html From dconnitt at fuse.net Sat Oct 18 17:54:21 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 19:54:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tire choices Message-ID: Hello Everyone, I know at least I have asked this question before and I certainly don't want to start one of "those threads" but here goes. I have a TR4A IRS that I am restoring and I am at the point of purchasing tires. I have a set of stock TR4A steel wheels but I also have a set of early TR6 wheels which I would like to install first. Is there anybody on the list who owns a TR4 or TR4A body style which has TR6 wheels on it that could give me some guidance on tire sizes that will fit in the wheel wells without hitting the fenders? Yes, I would like to put the widest tire possible under the car. At some point I will probably purchase a set of alloy wheels so I am hoping to transfer the tires from the TR6 wheels to the alloy wheels. Thanks, Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS (kinda stock) http:/home.fuse.net/davestr4a From 75TR6 at TR6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Oct 18 18:33:04 2008 From: 75TR6 at TR6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 20:33:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Frank makes some nice stuff. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FrankFisher.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD Http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 3:19 PM Subject: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates > Shameless self promotion. > IM back in production with fuel pump blank off plates for all our cars. > contact me off list if you would like one > Frank Fisher > TR3 TS41366L > **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your > destination. > Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out > (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > http://www.team.net/archive -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.8.1/1732 - Release Date: 10/18/2008 6:01 PM From auprichard at comcast.net Sat Oct 18 21:10:17 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 23:10:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <92C6B4389A484521874C59599A3A35C7@DCH6RFC1> More shameless promotion. I purchased one from our friend Frank and it was a piece of art. I even received compliments on it..... Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FGFO1 at aol.com Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 3:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] fuel pump blank off plates Shameless self promotion. IM back in production with fuel pump blank off plates for all our cars. contact me off list if you would like one Frank Fisher TR3 TS41366L **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Sun Oct 19 05:43:28 2008 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 07:43:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 part help needed Message-ID: <2BCC06E3BBE14010BFFF60EE2612EE9B@andy> Would anyone on the list know where I can buy, or have for sale, the two little brackets for holding in a TR4 Speedo or Tach? Preferably for the metal rather than wood dash; but I'll take what can be found. Thanks Andy From triumphs at consolidated.net Sun Oct 19 11:28:11 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 12:28:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Silicon brake fluid Message-ID: I Know, I know, this topic has been beat to death several times over the years, but I have a very specific question. I yesterday received a brand new early Spitfire brake dual master cylinder. It is manufactured by TRW and has Lucas cast into the body. On the OEM box there is a warning Use of Silicon brake fluid will void warranty. I have used silicon for several years in my rebuilt TR3 cylinders with no apparent adverse effects and generally have been pleased. Does anyone have any long-term experience using silicon in a Spitfire master? My guess is that is a liability issue and the manufacturer is being overly cautious by warning against the use of silicon, but I am very curious as to any real world observations in this regard and any educated guesses as to why TRW would put such a warning on their label. TIA Ken Gano From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Oct 19 11:36:45 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 13:36:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Silicon brake fluid References: Message-ID: Even the last master brake cylinder I got for a TR6 said no silicone. I use it with no problem. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Gano palm top" To: "Triumphs List" Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 1:28 PM Subject: [TR] Silicon brake fluid >I Know, I know, this topic has been beat to death several times over the > years, but I have a very specific question. > > I yesterday received a brand new early Spitfire brake dual master > cylinder. > It is manufactured by TRW and has Lucas cast into the body. On the OEM > box there is a warning Use of Silicon brake fluid will void warranty. > > I have used silicon for several years in my rebuilt TR3 cylinders with no > apparent adverse effects and generally have been pleased. > > Does anyone have any long-term experience using silicon in a Spitfire > master? My guess is that is a liability issue and the manufacturer is > being > overly cautious by warning against the use of silicon, but I am very > curious > as to any real world observations in this regard and any educated > guesses > as to why TRW would put such a warning on their label. > > TIA > > Ken Gano > _______________________________________________ From Andy.dixon at comcast.net Sun Oct 19 12:03:42 2008 From: Andy.dixon at comcast.net (Andy) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 14:03:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 fiberglass floor pans - up for grabs Message-ID: <4D6006349FD6474180CB2E994E555B5C@andy> I'm trying to make some room in the garage and have a set of TR3 fiberglass floor pans that anyone who wants them can have for shipping. I'm in Northern Virginia. At least one has the captive nuts on it. Andy From PeterSchop at aol.com Sun Oct 19 14:22:17 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 16:22:17 EDT Subject: [TR] new clutch Message-ID: Since the trans is readily accessible right now, I have decided to renew the clutch on my six even though it worked fine, smooth, no slip and not too heavy. Not knowing what I would find when I opened it up, I picked up a slightly used Laycock Sheffield pressure plate and disk. I had the disk relined. I also picked up a new TR4 cross shaft with grease fittings, larger TR4 bushings, new fork secured with split pin and modified heavy duty tapered pin. I also bought a Gunst throw out bearing. Now that I opened it up, I find that the car has the early Borg & Beck pressure plate and disk measuring .270", and a RHP TOB. Both the TOB and the fingers on the plate show quite noticeable wear. The surprise is that the clutch fork is welded to the cross shaft. The shaft rotates easily and has very little up and down movement. I have decided to leave the cross shaft with fork welded to it in the bell housing seeing that it is working fine and "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I am also putting in the slightly used Laycock pressure plate and relined disk and Gunst TOB. Any comments as to am I doing the right thing before I put it all back together? I don't want to have to take it apart again after it is on the road. Should I have the flywheel resurfaced? Also, there was a lot of grease where the TOB sleeve slides on the mainshaft. Is this necessary? TIA, Peter Schoppelry TR6 '69 **************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination. Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out (http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002) From rgperry at earthlink.net Sun Oct 19 15:33:36 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 16:33:36 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] Silicon brake fluid Message-ID: <33338487.1224452017060.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Ken, I put silicone 5.0 brake fluid in my TR6 in 1989. I have not had to rebuild any brake hydraulic parts since then. I highly recommend the silicone brake fluid. I just got internet and phone back today after hurricane Ike. No electricity for three weeks after Ike. Regards, Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >From: Ken Gano palm top >Subject: [TR] Silicon brake fluid >>Does anyone have any long-term experience using silicon in a Spitfire >master? >Ken Gano From wbeech at flash.net Sun Oct 19 15:38:47 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 15:38:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 part help needed In-Reply-To: <2BCC06E3BBE14010BFFF60EE2612EE9B@andy> References: <2BCC06E3BBE14010BFFF60EE2612EE9B@andy> Message-ID: <4369F23A68E34E51952EC711B8A270F1@sniffer> Try West Valley Instruments in southern CA. (818) 758-9500, ask for Morris. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andy Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 5:43 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR4 part help needed Would anyone on the list know where I can buy, or have for sale, the two little brackets for holding in a TR4 Speedo or Tach? Preferably for the metal rather than wood dash; but I'll take what can be found. Thanks Andy This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.8.1/1732 - Release Date: 10/18/2008 6:01 PM From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Oct 19 19:08:11 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 21:08:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] bolts for bump rubber pedestal Message-ID: <000801c93250$53a7fb20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I found the 2 parts of my TR3's chassis that hold the Bump Rubber at an angle under the front shocks. The bump rubber is fastened on the bigger one which itself is bolted to the chassis. Trouble is, is that I've lost the bolts. It looks like there are proably 2 bolts with nuts and lockwashers which run thru a 1/2" tube on each side of the car. I'd guess the bolts are 4 to 5" long. I'm guessing that I can replace them with 3/8" or 7/16" bolts. Is there anything special about bolts? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.5 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 19 19:20:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:20:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] bolts for bump rubber pedestal In-Reply-To: <000801c93250$53a7fb20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081020012058.IXJH2525.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I'm guessing that I can replace them with 3/8" or 7/16" > bolts. Is there anything special about bolts? Nope, just ordinary 5/16-24 bolts, 3.5" long with a matching lockwasher and plain nut. Randall From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Sun Oct 19 19:53:17 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:53:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Silicon brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've been using Silicon Dot 5 brake fluid in my 4A since I finished the restoration - 18 months ago - and have had no problems. In fact, it saved my paint a few times! Brian 67 TR4A ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 12:28:11 -0500 From: "Ken Gano palm top" Subject: [TR] Silicon brake fluid To: "Triumphs List" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I Know, I know, this topic has been beat to death several times over the years, but I have a very specific question. I yesterday received a brand new early Spitfire brake dual master cylinder. It is manufactured by TRW and has Lucas cast into the body. On the OEM box there is a warning Use of Silicon brake fluid will void warranty. I have used silicon for several years in my rebuilt TR3 cylinders with no apparent adverse effects and generally have been pleased. Does anyone have any long-term experience using silicon in a Spitfire master? My guess is that is a liability issue and the manufacturer is being overly cautious by warning against the use of silicon, but I am very curious as to any real world observations in this regard and any educated guesses as to why TRW would put such a warning on their label. TIA Ken Gano From deruiterville at hotmail.com Mon Oct 20 09:07:55 2008 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:07:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tire choices In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dave- I am not running with TR6 rims, but have KN Minator 5.5" rims on my TR4 which I think is pretty close. I use 195-65s with no clearance issues. Regards, Randy _________________________________________________________________ Store, manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live SkyDrive. http://skydrive.live.com/welcome.aspx?provision=1?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_ 102008 From adcronin at ameritech.net Mon Oct 20 15:54:17 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 14:54:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR 6 Trunion Oilers Message-ID: <820276.36019.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> In the past there have been several "hints" on how and what to use on the later TR Trunnions. One suggestion was to use an pressure oil can (Harbor Freight) and another was on the VTR web site and a posting under www.vtr.org/maintain/trunnion-oil.shtml I have been looking for the Mercury Marine unit described in the VTR post and finally found and purchased four of them which was the min. order they would supply. So, I have three available at cost ($20.00 plus shipping from 48336). Very neat unit and uses any of the various 10oz or so tubes of 80/90 wt gear oil with the 3/8" (+/-) threads below the nozzle. These tubes run from 5 to 8 $$. If you would like one of these pumps to assist in correctly lubricating the trunnions through the Zerk fittings, let me know. Shipping should be $8.00 or less depending on your location. Dan From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 20 16:41:20 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 15:41:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 6 Trunion Oilers In-Reply-To: <820276.36019.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <820276.36019.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <08F3EEB763B747E58D3CFFC1862385ED@jdnet.deere.com> > I have been looking for the > Mercury > Marine unit described in the VTR post and finally found and purchased four > of > them which was the min. order they would supply. That's odd. I had no trouble ordering just one, directly through Mercury Marine. http://tinyurl.com/57n99w Their website referred me to a local dealer after asking my zip code, but I still ordered it on-line. Then of course I sold the Sports 6 without ever trying it, so it's still hanging on the wall. Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Oct 20 17:17:40 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 18:17:40 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Source for NLA part Message-ID: <14071915.21220111224544660983.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> To the list, I will be swapping alternators this winter with a rebuilt Lucas unit. I called TRF today to order a new alternator bracket for my 1972 Triumph TR6. I was advised that this part is NLA. Mine is not in great shape, needs painted and is a little bent but I could use it. Someone is selling a thicker bracket on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&item=330278747653 He is advising you will need a slightly longer bolt due to the thickness of this bracket. The bracket on the Moss site looks different, it is not an "L" shaped bracket. What say you oh Lords of the list, I am open to suggestions, and no, I am not converting to a modern alternator. Thanks, Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 20 17:57:52 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 18:57:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Source for NLA part References: <14071915.21220111224544660983.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <001b01c9330f$aba62c10$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> interesting. i had a couple break on me, and it wasn't until i started pulling things apart that i realized it was because the alternator mounting bracket had ovaled out and the alternator was moving/vibrating, which was causing the bracket to break. as such i ended up with several (and no, i'm not parting with them). i would think you could clean yours up and use it. can you put it in a vice and straighten it? and repaint it? if not, i would think this is a decent value, although i have not seen it up close and have absolutely no knowledge of the seller. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 6:17 PM Subject: [TR] Source for NLA part > To the list, > > I will be swapping alternators this winter with a rebuilt Lucas unit. > > I called TRF today to order a new alternator bracket for my 1972 Triumph > TR6. I was advised that this part is NLA. Mine is not in great shape, > needs painted and is a little bent but I could use it. > > Someone is selling a thicker bracket on Ebay: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&item=330278747653 > > He is advising you will need a slightly longer bolt due to the thickness > of this bracket. > > The bracket on the Moss site looks different, it is not an "L" shaped > bracket. > > What say you oh Lords of the list, I am open to suggestions, and no, I am > not converting to a modern alternator. > > Thanks, > > Craig H. Nicholls > 1972 Triumph TR6 From skip47 at clearwire.net Mon Oct 20 18:06:56 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 17:06:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Jag valuation? References: Message-ID: Tom- I owned a 76 XJ6L, bought it about 1980. I think my experience was typical, not unlike what you will have. I LOVED that car! BUT, it was like a mistress. If you have a mistress and you treat her better than you think she should be treated, she will treat you better than you think you should be treated. But let her down just a little bit, and she's a b***h. A Jag doesn't nickel and dime you to death. It 5 and 10 dollars you to death (in 1980 dollars, about 1/10 of today), constantly, perpetually. Keep that in mind when you're negotiating price. Oh, and by the way, the wiring diagram didn't show all the wires and devices! Caveat emptor.... Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4, 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 7:44 AM Subject: [TR] Jag valuation? > HI List, > > A Jag is British so I hope this email isn't too off topic. > > I have seen a nice 1973 Jag XJ6 for sale locally at a reasonable price. I > have just looked around at it thus far. I have done a search on the > internet > and cannot find a price reference for this year Jag. > > Does anyone have an older cars Blue Book they could look it up in for me? > Or > can anyone give me an estimate of what this car should sell for from a > private > party? > > Thanks. > > > > > Best regards, > Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Oct 20 18:51:14 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 17:51:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Source for NLA part In-Reply-To: <14071915.21220111224544660983.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> References: <14071915.21220111224544660983.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: > The bracket on the Moss site looks different, it is not an "L" shaped > bracket. It's my belief that the Moss (US) web site is mistaken. What they show is the adjusting link for later TR6 with a smog pump (75-76 US-spec). See for example http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6bluebook/22.php and http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=2508 My guess is that the one on eBay will fit as advertised, with a slightly longer bolt. Randall From jmitch at snet.net Mon Oct 20 19:26:10 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 21:26:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] 6 volt coil Message-ID: <48FD2FB2.7010706@snet.net> I have a Lucas 6 volt coil with the same dimensions as my original but with a different part number. Will this work on my 76 TR6, or are there other requirements other than being the correct voltage. Thanks John Mitchell From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Oct 20 21:54:39 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 20:54:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Odds that old water pump is any good? Message-ID: <48FD527F.80900@comcast.net> What are the odds that one of my two used TR3 water pumps are any good? The bearings feel smooth on both. If I look inside the weep holes, the shafts are clean and bright with no signs of leakage. Neither pump has been used in at least 20 years. Should I put one on and try it or should I just go ahead and buy the parts to rebuild one of them? Thanks, Mike From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Mon Oct 20 22:27:14 2008 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 21:27:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR 6 Trunion Oilers In-Reply-To: <820276.36019.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001c93335$4b96ff40$b1191718@computer> When you say the later TR trunnions, what years of TR6 require this method of lubrication? If 1974 uses it, then I'd be interested in one. My zip is 95814. Where do you find the 10 oz. tubes of gear oil? -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of A Daniel Cronin Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 2:54 PM To: Friends of Triumph; Triumph List Subject: [Fot] TR 6 Trunion Oilers In the past there have been several "hints" on how and what to use on the later TR Trunnions. One suggestion was to use an pressure oil can (Harbor Freight) and another was on the VTR web site and a posting under www.vtr.org/maintain/trunnion-oil.shtml I have been looking for the Mercury Marine unit described in the VTR post and finally found and purchased four of them which was the min. order they would supply. So, I have three available at cost ($20.00 plus shipping from 48336). Very neat unit and uses any of the various 10oz or so tubes of 80/90 wt gear oil with the 3/8" (+/-) threads below the nozzle. These tubes run from 5 to 8 $$. If you would like one of these pumps to assist in correctly lubricating the trunnions through the Zerk fittings, let me know. Shipping should be $8.00 or less depending on your location. Dan Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 21 00:06:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 23:06:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Odds that old water pump is any good? In-Reply-To: <48FD527F.80900@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20081021060639.RGHA649.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Parts to rebuild them are nearly non-existent. The bearings are an oddball size that isn't made any more. I'd give them a try, but if not, I'm afraid it's a new pump. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 21 06:36:26 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 08:36:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] 6 volt coil In-Reply-To: <48FD2FB2.7010706@snet.net> References: <48FD2FB2.7010706@snet.net> Message-ID: John, You should have a ballast wire which impacts the type of coil you can use. Hopefully one of the smart guys will jump in and tell you how to test the coil to see if you can use it. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 9:26 PM To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] 6 volt coil I have a Lucas 6 volt coil with the same dimensions as my original but with a different part number. Will this work on my 76 TR6, or are there other requirements other than being the correct voltage. Thanks John Mitchell _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From fogbro1 at comcast.net Tue Oct 21 07:36:44 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 09:36:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rebuilt TR Water Pumps References: <48FD527F.80900@comcast.net> Message-ID: <006801c93382$100fb640$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> List, East Coast Jaguar does a beautiful job of rebuilding the original TR3/4 water pumps. At around $120, a bit more expensive than the repro stuff available, but, IMHO, worth it. No problem fitting an original pulley to an original pump, is there? Be sure to remove the pulley before you send the core! John DiGiacoma at ecjaguar at aol.com NFI and all that. Ed Woods From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Oct 21 12:09:44 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 14:09:44 EDT Subject: [TR] 6 volt coil Message-ID: In a message dated 10/21/2008 7:36:58 AM Central Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > John, > You should have a ballast wire which impacts the type of coil you can use. > Hopefully one of the smart guys will jump in and tell you how to test the > coil to see if you can use it. > Use an ohmmeter. A "6 volt" coil will measure about 1.5 ohms whereas a "12 volt" coil will measure 3 or more. Also, there will be a second wire that connects to the coil. On some models such as the 74 model both wires will be brought right to the quick connect terminal at the coil. In theory you can use your 6 volt coil on a 76 TR6 but check just in case a PO has rewired things. Dave From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Tue Oct 21 13:22:42 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:22:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Odds that old water pump is any good? References: <20081021060639.RGHA649.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <80AAB73A64BC49EC998358CF4B211320@fred8kwiskhcfu> Parts are available from your local "Massey-Ferguson" tractor dept, "FT" From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Oct 21 13:51:23 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:51:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] ramp lenth? Message-ID: <030701c933b6$66ec0ca0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I used an outside homemade rotisserie to originally get my TR3's chassis (w/o engine and tranny) up on a two foot high platform. This steel 10' scaffolding platform was constructed about 4-5 years ago when I started the rebuilding of this abandoned restoration. I am planning on driving it off this platform within six months. However, I first need to build a dependable wooden ramp to drive it down. I want to reuse this ramp in the future for oil changes, work underneath, etc. What is a preferable length of ramp for driving this car, up and down this 2' high platform? I will be using heavily supported 2"x 8" treated new pine lumber. These vertical wooden supports will be every 10" or so. I am seeing light at the end of the tunnel... Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.5 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Oct 21 17:37:35 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 19:37:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height Message-ID: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> The brake pedal of our '76 TR6 sits about 2 3/4" below the level of the clutch pedal, and almost 1" below the accelerator pedal. It makes for some awkward pedal action, and I'd like to get it higher. Is the rod into the vacuum booster adjustable, and able to move the pedal up higher at rest? I can't really tell from the Haynes manual. Rotors, pads, rear drums, linings and master cyl. are all new and drums are adjusted as snuggly as prudent, and system bled. This configuration has existed since we've had the car, and before I did all this brake work. Any insights or suggestions appreciated. Tom From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue Oct 21 17:30:39 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 17:30:39 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height In-Reply-To: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20081021173039.1e77c25e@pop.west.cox.net> Can't really say for the TR6, but FWIW on my red v6 Spitfire, clutch and brake even, gas about 3/4 inch lower, my GT6 clutch and GAS about even, brake about 1 inch higher?? go figure, and my wife's Spitfire, clutch and brake even, GAS about inch higher!! No that's no misprint, double checked and that is what they are - interesting - Barry ***************Original message********************** At 07:37 PM 10/21/2008 -0400, you wrote: >The brake pedal of our '76 TR6 sits about 2 3/4" below the level of the >clutch pedal, and almost 1" below the accelerator pedal. It makes for some >awkward pedal action, and I'd like to get it higher. Is the rod into the >vacuum booster adjustable, and able to move the pedal up higher at rest? I Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From jmitch at snet.net Tue Oct 21 18:54:51 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 20:54:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height In-Reply-To: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> References: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> Message-ID: <48FE79DB.7000800@snet.net> Something sounds wrong. On my 76, with everything rebuilt fairly recently,the clutch and brake are almost even. John Mitchell Tom Note wrote: > The brake pedal of our '76 TR6 sits about 2 3/4" below the level of > the clutch pedal, and almost 1" below the accelerator pedal. It > makes for some awkward pedal action, and I'd like to get it higher. Is > the rod into the vacuum booster adjustable, and able to move the pedal > up higher at rest? I can't really tell from the Haynes manual. Rotors, > pads, rear drums, linings and master cyl. are all new and drums are > adjusted as snuggly as prudent, and system bled. This configuration > has existed since we've had the car, and before I did all this brake > work. > Any insights or suggestions appreciated. > > Tom _______________________________________________ From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Oct 21 18:55:00 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 20:55:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20081021173039.1e77c25e@pop.west.cox.net> References: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> Message-ID: <48FE41A4.14383.4D176C5F@localhost> On 21 Oct 2008 at 17:30, Barry Schwartz wrote: > At 07:37 PM 10/21/2008 -0400, Tom Note wrote: > > The brake pedal of our '76 TR6 sits about 2 3/4" below the level > > of the clutch pedal, and almost 1" below the accelerator pedal. > Can't really say for the TR6, but FWIW... I can't speak to the TR6 but one factor on the Spitfire and GT6 is the clevis pin that connects the pedal lever to the piston plunger. The pin can wear a pretty big groove, which causes the pedal to sit lower, or actually further down in its travel range. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jmitch at snet.net Tue Oct 21 18:57:32 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 20:57:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] 6 volt coil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48FE7A7C.10308@snet.net> Thanks Dave, Does it make any difference that I'm using a pertronix instead of points? John Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 10/21/2008 2:49:28 PM Central Daylight Time, > jmitch at snet.net writes: >> The ballast resistor is still in place. How do I go about testing a >> coil for resistance? Where do I put the test leads? Thanks John > > Disconnect one of the wires from the coil and place your meter leads > one each coil terminal. > > Touch the meter leads together to get a reading that corresponds with > zero ohms and subtract that from what you get when you measure the > coil. Most meter leads will measure about 0.2 - 0.5 ohms. Cheaper > ones may read as high as 1 ohm. > > Dave From skip47 at clearwire.net Tue Oct 21 19:01:46 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 18:01:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] ramp lenth? References: <030701c933b6$66ec0ca0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <0E49E6220D3E4CB5A02B9E31CE3ED402@ZEUS> Hi Paul- I've been using 1x12's, but have used 1x8's in the past; too narrow for my nerves and vision. This size board is PLENTY strong, and the main issues are: 1) making it long enough so you don't get high-centered at the edge of the platform, and 2) wide enough so you don't drive off the side. Support at every 10 inches is overkill. My trailer is about a foot off the ground at the rear, and I use eight foot ramps supported in the middle (actually they're two 4-foot pieces so I can fit them into the tow car). Triumphs have not bottomed on the trailer as I loaded them, so that's a good length for the one foot height. Since you're doubling the height, you'll need something longer. If you're into math, you simply have to work out how long the ramp must be to allow the TR to clear. Or create a scale drawing. Or just buy 16-ft boards. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4, 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 12:51 PM Subject: [TR] ramp lenth? > List, > I used an outside homemade rotisserie to originally get my TR3's chassis > (w/o > engine and tranny) up on a two foot high platform. This steel 10' > scaffolding > platform was constructed about 4-5 years ago when I started the rebuilding > of > this abandoned restoration. I am planning on driving it off this platform > within six months. > However, I first need to build a dependable wooden ramp to drive it > down. > I want to reuse this ramp in the future for oil changes, work underneath, > etc. > What is a preferable length of ramp for driving this car, up and down this > 2' > high platform? I will be using heavily supported 2"x 8" treated new pine > lumber. These vertical wooden supports will be every 10" or so. > > I am seeing light at the end of the tunnel... > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From jmitch at snet.net Tue Oct 21 19:03:03 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 21:03:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height In-Reply-To: <48FE41A4.14383.4D176C5F@localhost> References: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> <48FE41A4.14383.4D176C5F@localhost> Message-ID: <48FE7BC7.8030107@snet.net> Very True, I actually welded up the hole in the clutch pedal and re drilled and used new clevis pins. It was amazing how much more travel I was able to get. John Mitchell 76 TR6 Jim Muller wrote: > On 21 Oct 2008 at 17:30, Barry Schwartz wrote: > > >> At 07:37 PM 10/21/2008 -0400, Tom Note wrote: >> >>> The brake pedal of our '76 TR6 sits about 2 3/4" below the level >>> of the clutch pedal, and almost 1" below the accelerator pedal. >>> > > >> Can't really say for the TR6, but FWIW... >> > > I can't speak to the TR6 but one factor on the Spitfire and GT6 is > the clevis pin that connects the pedal lever to the piston plunger. > The pin can wear a pretty big groove, which causes the pedal to sit > lower, or actually further down in its travel range. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Oct 21 19:05:52 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 21:05:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] 36" cable needed? Message-ID: <033201c933e2$5b18b0a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Does anyone have an extra 36" inner tach cable? Or both inner and outer 36" tach cable? I'll trade my good 6' speedo cable for it. I have both 6' inner & outer. You see, Mine was broke. I ordered a tach cable not knowing what length it was suppose to be. The Ebay seller also was misinformed and thot it should be 6'. Randall straightened me out. And I had already given the seller positive feedback. So, it's too late for him. I doubt it would work to shorten the long one, right? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.5 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca Tue Oct 21 19:17:06 2008 From: cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca (Cameron Joyce) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 21:17:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trunnion Shafts Message-ID: Ready to insert and ream the bushings to fit the trunnion shafts/pins on the 3A, but noticed how pitted and worn the shafts are... it would take an ugly reamer to get an exact fit! There is visible wear on the top of one side of a shaft such that there is a 1/16" depression/ridge, the undersides are pock marked and rough, and certainly out of round. From scouring the archives, I see there are two options - new repro replacement trunnions which include shafts, which are apparently of inferior quality vs. the originals, or press in new cross shafts only available from Revington TR. Apart from the shafts, the trunnions appear to be in great condition. My parts source recommends new ones ( and going to 3 degree vs. original 0 degree), and wasn't aware cross shafts could be changed. The archives are light on comparing the results of the two options, so wondering what others experience has been. How is the quality of the new parts, and is there a preference for one vs another of the big 3? What is the turnaround/shipping time from Revington? What else is involved if I opt to change to the later 3 degree trunnions? Cameron Joyce '59 TR3A From cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca Tue Oct 21 19:25:01 2008 From: cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca (Cameron Joyce) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 21:25:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] S. Ont TR Body work Message-ID: Any recommendations for someone familiar with/specializing in TR's in Southern Ontario for paint and minor body work? Cameron Joyce '59 TR3A From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Tue Oct 21 20:15:30 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 21:15:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] ramp lenth? In-Reply-To: <0E49E6220D3E4CB5A02B9E31CE3ED402@ZEUS> References: <030701c933b6$66ec0ca0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0E49E6220D3E4CB5A02B9E31CE3ED402@ZEUS> Message-ID: Are you sure the boards were only one inch (3/4" really) thick? Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!> From: skip47 at clearwire.net> To: dorpaul at bellsouth.net; triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 18:01:46 -0700> Subject: Re: [TR] ramp lenth?> > Hi Paul-> I've been using 1x12's, but have used 1x8's in the past; too narrow for my > nerves and vision. This size board is PLENTY strong, and the main issues > are: 1) making it long enough so you don't get high-centered at the edge of > the platform, and 2) wide enough so you don't drive off the side. Support > at every 10 inches is overkill. My trailer is about a foot off the ground > at the rear, and I use eight foot ramps supported in the middle (actually > they're two 4-foot pieces so I can fit them into the tow car). Triumphs > have not bottomed on the trailer as I loaded them, so that's a good length > for the one foot height. Since you're doubling the height, you'll need > something longer. If you're into math, you simply have to work out how long > the ramp must be to allow the TR to clear. Or create a scale drawing. Or > just buy 16-ft boards.> Best,> Skip Gurnee> 64 TR4, 66 TR4A> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "dorpaul" > To: "list Triumph" > Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 12:51 PM> Subject: [TR] ramp lenth?> > > > List,> > I used an outside homemade rotisserie to originally get my TR3's chassis > > (w/o> > engine and tranny) up on a two foot high platform. This steel 10' > > scaffolding> > platform was constructed about 4-5 years ago when I started the rebuilding > > of> > this abandoned restoration. I am planning on driving it off this platform> > within six months.> > However, I first need to build a dependable wooden ramp to drive it > > down.> > I want to reuse this ramp in the future for oil changes, work underneath, > > etc.> > What is a preferable length of ramp for driving this car, up and down this > > 2'> > high platform? I will be using heavily supported 2"x 8" treated new pine> > lumber. These vertical wooden supports will be every 10" or so.> >> > I am seeing light at the end of the tunnel...> >> > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 21 21:14:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 20:14:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trunnion Shafts In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081022031411.NLPX890.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> It's been some time now, but I had few complaints about the quality of trunnions I got from Moss. As I recall, the only issues were that they were not cross-drilled for cotter pins (use Nyloc nuts instead); and on one of them the bottom plate leaked a little grease (until I restaked it). Oh yeah, they were TR4 pattern, meaning they had provisions for the little metal rings next to the seals, that the TR3 did not use. Also, it seems very difficult to me to get an accurate assessment of the condition of the threads inside the casting. It would be unpleasant to have them break in operation. So, I would (did) just buy new trunnions. YMMV and all that. > My parts source recommends new ones ( and going > to 3 degree vs. original 0 degree), If you do that, don't forget that you will also need to change the upper A-arms and ball joint. As I recall there was also a change to the steering arm, but you could ignore that I guess. Also don't forget the change in caster will make the steering harder. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 21 21:18:34 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 20:18:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height In-Reply-To: <48FE41A4.14383.4D176C5F@localhost> Message-ID: <20081022031834.NNTH890.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I can't speak to the TR6 but one factor on the Spitfire and > GT6 is the clevis pin that connects the pedal lever to the > piston plunger. > The pin can wear a pretty big groove, which causes the pedal > to sit lower, or actually further down in its travel range. Also a problem on Stags. I managed to ream the holes oversize and use a larger diameter pin (hardened metric bolt with a long shank), to avoid having to remove the pedals from the car. Randall From tom628 at verizon.net Tue Oct 21 21:31:51 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 23:31:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height References: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> <48FE41A4.14383.4D176C5F@localhost> <48FE7BC7.8030107@snet.net> Message-ID: <7731191127BB46058A251FFFF75B508F@Toms> I've replaced the clevis pin, and the holes had only a little wear, so I don't think that's it. I'm really wondering, though, if anyone knows if the pedal can be adjusted upward. Thanks, Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Mitchell" To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 9:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height > Very True, I actually welded up the hole in the clutch pedal and re > drilled and used new clevis pins. It was amazing how much more travel I > was able to get. John Mitchell 76 TR6 > > Jim Muller wrote: >> On 21 Oct 2008 at 17:30, Barry Schwartz wrote: >> >> >>> At 07:37 PM 10/21/2008 -0400, Tom Note wrote: >>> >>>> The brake pedal of our '76 TR6 sits about 2 3/4" below the level >>>> of the clutch pedal, and almost 1" below the accelerator pedal. >>>> >> >> >>> Can't really say for the TR6, but FWIW... >>> >> >> I can't speak to the TR6 but one factor on the Spitfire and GT6 is the >> clevis pin that connects the pedal lever to the piston plunger. The pin >> can wear a pretty big groove, which causes the pedal to sit lower, or >> actually further down in its travel range. > _______________________________________________ From auprichard at comcast.net Wed Oct 22 05:09:33 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 07:09:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trunnion Shafts In-Reply-To: <20081022031411.NLPX890.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081022031411.NLPX890.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <975752C30257428CAD8F860353E415CB@DCH6RFC1> On the TR3 I am restoring I used the 3 degree option with the TR4A upper A arm and ball joint set-up (pic attached). Wasn't aware of any change to the steering arm (kept the original steering box) but since I haven't driven it yet I can't comment on performance ! I got the trunnions from the UK. Andrew -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 11:14 PM To: 'Cameron Joyce'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Trunnion Shafts It's been some time now, but I had few complaints about the quality of trunnions I got from Moss. As I recall, the only issues were that they were not cross-drilled for cotter pins (use Nyloc nuts instead); and on one of them the bottom plate leaked a little grease (until I restaked it). Oh yeah, they were TR4 pattern, meaning they had provisions for the little metal rings next to the seals, that the TR3 did not use. Also, it seems very difficult to me to get an accurate assessment of the condition of the threads inside the casting. It would be unpleasant to have them break in operation. So, I would (did) just buy new trunnions. YMMV and all that. > My parts source recommends new ones ( and going > to 3 degree vs. original 0 degree), If you do that, don't forget that you will also need to change the upper A-arms and ball joint. As I recall there was also a change to the steering arm, but you could ignore that I guess. Also don't forget the change in caster will make the steering harder. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RH vertical link et al 2.JPG] From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Oct 22 06:03:05 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 08:03:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] S. Ont TR Body work In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Where in Southern Ontario? I know a place in Sarnia. Mark 76 TR7 80 Spitfire From: "Cameron Joyce" Subject: [TR] S. Ont TR Body work Any recommendations for someone familiar with/specializing in TR's in Southern Ontario for paint and minor body work? Cameron Joyce '59 TR3A From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Oct 22 06:50:09 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 08:50:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height In-Reply-To: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> References: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> Message-ID: <5AA453BCA23F4EF4B8137294FD63AC11@BOBSNEWPC> On my '75, the clutch & brake pedal are just about dead even. I replaced everything that attaches to those two pedals last winter and I can't think of any adjustment for them. The go pedal is a little higher but that was my preference when I re-installed it after putting in Art Lipp's bushing kit for the shaft. The bracket on the end of the accelerator shaft gives you the option of moving the pedal height up or down. You just want to make sure you still have 100% throttle opening when pushed to the floor. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Note Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 7:38 PM To: TR List Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height The brake pedal of our '76 TR6 sits about 2 3/4" below the level of the clutch pedal, and almost 1" below the accelerator pedal. It makes for some awkward pedal action, and I'd like to get it higher. Is the rod into the vacuum booster adjustable, and able to move the pedal up higher at rest? I can't really tell from the Haynes manual. Rotors, pads, rear drums, linings and master cyl. are all new and drums are adjusted as snuggly as prudent, and system bled. This configuration has existed since we've had the car, and before I did all this brake work. Any insights or suggestions appreciated. Tom This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From skip47 at clearwire.net Wed Oct 22 10:17:23 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 09:17:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] ramp lenth? References: <030701c933b6$66ec0ca0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <0E49E6220D3E4CB5A02B9E31CE3ED402@ZEUS> Message-ID: <62CF5D7D20264705907EBC29533F4B8A@ZEUS> oops! 2 x 12!!! sorry 'bout that. -Skip G. ----- Original Message ----- From: Rich White To: Skip Gurnee ; dorpaul ; list Triumph Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 7:15 PM Subject: RE: [TR] ramp lenth? Are you sure the boards were only one inch (3/4" really) thick? Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! > From: skip47 at clearwire.net > To: dorpaul at bellsouth.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 18:01:46 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] ramp lenth? > > Hi Paul- > I've been using 1x12's, but have used 1x8's in the past; too narrow for my > nerves and vision. This size board is PLENTY strong, and the main issues > are: 1) making it long enough so you don't get high-centered at the edge of > the platform, and 2) wide enough so you don't drive off the side. Support > at every 10 inches is overkill. My trailer is about a foot off the ground > at the rear, and I use eight foot ramps supported in the middle (actually > they're two 4-foot pieces so I can fit them into the tow car). Triumphs > have not bottomed on the trailer as I loaded them, so that's a good length > for the one foot height. Since you're doubling the height, you'll need > something longer. If you're into math, you simply have to work out how long > the ramp must be to allow the TR to clear. Or create a scale drawing. Or > just buy 16-ft boards. > Best, > Skip Gurnee > 64 TR4, 66 TR4A From NPaul72464 at aol.com Wed Oct 22 10:20:13 2008 From: NPaul72464 at aol.com (NPaul72464 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 12:20:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Going my way? Message-ID: Hi All, Please excuse the imposition in advance, but I have a chance to buy a nice set of 165 15's from a fellow in Fort Wayne. However, the shipping cost makes it impractical. Any chance that someone is heading from the Fort Wayne area toward Rochester, NY in the not too distant future and could bring the tires. I would be glad to drive within a hundred mile radius to meet. Thanks, Ned Paulsen 1958 TR3A **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics b check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001) From ggelhar at earthlink.net Tue Oct 21 14:51:26 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:51:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] New TR6 Message-ID: <380-2200810221205126328@earthlink.net> Triumph fans, We have several members in our local club who are the original owners of their Triumphs. One member recalls when he traded his TR3 for a new TR4 and traded that in on the TR6 he still owns today. While this is not the norm, I'm sure there are many original owners out there. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Club Historian, Minnesota Triumphs . > Subject: Re: [6pack] New TR6 > > Dave, > > Thanks for that. Amazing that you still have your TR6, there can't be many > people out there who have owned their TR6 from new. > > Cheers > Derek From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Oct 22 15:47:58 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 17:47:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] slope calculation Message-ID: <037f01c9348f$da04b8c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am mentally struggling with the calculation of essential slope needed for safely driving a TR3 up and down from a platform of only 16" to the ground? The platform is level and plenty long enough to accomodate my car for servicing, etc. Distance between wheels is 6', ground clearance is 6" (i think). I also think the bottom edge of the front bumper is about 20" in front of the front wheels, and the bottom edge of the rear bumper is about 30 " behind the rear tires. I have 15" tires. (Actually, ground clearance increases a couple of inches in the rear due to angling-up of rear chassis). Car will be driven up the ramp from the front, and backed down from the rear. I think the problem will first be encountered when I drive up the ramp and find that the edge of the platform rubs against the floorboard at about a place near the front of the car's door. However, what's the formula required to show that if the slope is gentle enough,no contact with the car's rails will be made. I also need to keep the ramp short to stay in the driveway area. Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.5 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 22 16:10:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 15:10:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] slope calculation In-Reply-To: <037f01c9348f$da04b8c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <037f01c9348f$da04b8c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <771B870676754946AA1AA5D1D8C13C72@jdnet.deere.com> > I think the problem will first be encountered when I drive up the ramp and > find that the edge of the platform rubs against the floorboard at about a > place near the front of the car's door. However, what's the formula > required > to show that if the slope is gentle enough,no contact with the car's rails > will be made. Well, the important point is what angle does the board make with the horizontal surface. If you draw an imaginary line between the bottoms of the tires, it will form a triangle with the two surfaces. The height of that triangle cannot exceed the ground clearance of the car. Offhand, I'm pretty sure that the triangle height (for a given base and upper angle) is maximum for an isosceles triangle, which would mean you only need to evaluate that case, which makes it fairly easy. Since the angles add up to 180, you know all the angles; and since the bottom of the triangle is the wheelbase of the car, you know that too. Now just solve the triangle to get the board angle. Then armed with the board angle and the height of your platform, you can calculate the required length of the board. Randall From mmeany at ne.rr.com Wed Oct 22 17:06:46 2008 From: mmeany at ne.rr.com (Mark Meany) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 19:06:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tire choices (TR4A w/ TR6 wheels) Message-ID: <20081022230650.OGUO29585.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@dads> Dave, I just checked with a buddy who's running a TR4 with TR6 wheels. He was able to use 205/65's but only because he's got adjustable Koni's up front (no problems with that size in the rear). By using the Koni's set hard, he was able to keep the tires from hitting the fender lip. Whether the compromise is worth it is tough to say; pretty subjective. Mark Meany Keene, NH From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Oct 22 17:10:38 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 19:10:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Going my way? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/22/2008 9:20:51 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, NPaul72464 at aol.com writes: Hi All, Please excuse the imposition in advance, but I have a chance to buy a nice set of 165 15's from a fellow in Fort Wayne. However, the shipping cost makes it impractical. Any chance that someone is heading from the Fort Wayne area toward Rochester, NY in the not too distant future and could bring the tires. I would be glad to drive within a hundred mile radius to meet. Thanks, Ned Paulsen 1958 TR3A Greyhound is cheaper. Mike Moore . 17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill, California 95037 408-782-1272 fax 408-782-1372 **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics b check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001) From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Oct 22 17:27:27 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 23:27:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Trunnion Shafts In-Reply-To: <20081022031411.NLPX890.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <613724250.327931224718047003.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> So, I would (did) just buy new trunnions. YMMV and all that. > My parts source recommends new ones ( and going > to 3 degree vs. original 0 degree), Having bought that t-shirt, I'd echoe Randall's advice.B I replaced the trunnions in my TR3A frame-off.B They've held up extremely well.B The toughness in steering exacerbates when it's been awhile since last greasing the suspension, and I expect will improve remarkably when I install the new poly silentblocs.B No wuuhries, mate. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Wed Oct 22 21:29:41 2008 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 20:29:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tire choices (TR4A w/ TR6 wheels) In-Reply-To: <20081022230650.OGUO29585.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@dads> References: <20081022230650.OGUO29585.hrndva-omta02.mail.rr.com@dads> Message-ID: <000901c934bf$966d1960$c3474c20$@rr.com> I have 205-65R15's on 72 spoke chrome Dayton wires. Same dimensions as TR6 wheels I believe. Even have rear tube shocks. No problems after 25K miles. Only if I really crank the front wheels fully left or right does anything rub, and then only slightly. Absolutely no rubbing on the rears. Johnnie '67 TR4-A -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Meany Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 4:07 PM To: dconnitt at fuse.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tire choices (TR4A w/ TR6 wheels) Dave, I just checked with a buddy who's running a TR4 with TR6 wheels. He was able to use 205/65's but only because he's got adjustable Koni's up front (no problems with that size in the rear). By using the Koni's set hard, he was able to keep the tires from hitting the fender lip. Whether the compromise is worth it is tough to say; pretty subjective. Mark Meany Keene, NH This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pdonnel1 at san.rr.com http://www.team.net/archive From tom628 at verizon.net Wed Oct 22 21:48:17 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 23:48:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height References: <7C198849410F4FC9979CBF4B2EAFA5E6@Toms> <5AA453BCA23F4EF4B8137294FD63AC11@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: If I were to adjust my accel. pedal thast much lower, I'd never come close to full throttle. My concern, tho, is not the go pedal, but the ht. of the brake pedal. It's much lower at rest than the clutch pedal. I've only seen one other TR6 like that, and I didn't get a chance to speak with the owner. I take it,Bob, from the work you've done, that the rod connecting the brake pedal to the booster is not adjustable in length. Too bad. I have no idea how it ended up this way. I'm determined to work out a way to extend it. Any ideas appreciated. Thanks, Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Tom Note'" ; "'TR List'" Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 8:50 AM Subject: RE: [TR] TR6 Brake pedal height > On my '75, the clutch & brake pedal are just about dead even. I replaced > everything that attaches to those two pedals last winter and I can't think > of any adjustment for them. > > The go pedal is a little higher but that was my preference when I > re-installed it after putting in Art Lipp's bushing kit for the shaft. The > bracket on the end of the accelerator shaft gives you the option of moving > the pedal height up or down. You just want to make sure you still have > 100% > throttle opening when pushed to the floor. From chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com Thu Oct 23 10:34:24 2008 From: chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com (Chris Buckley) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 18:34:24 +0200 Subject: [TR] Back on list Message-ID: Hi Listers, I have been off the list since December last year and I am definitely suffering from withdrawal symptoms. The reason was I took on the refurbishment of a MGB. I am glad that is now out of the way and can get back into TRs. Happy to be back! Cheers Chris Buckley Ngala Lodge P O Box 1 Ngala Nkhotakota Malawi Tel: +265 (0) 1259 395 Mobile: +265 (0) 8192003 Website: www.ngalabeachlodge.co.za From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Thu Oct 23 11:19:17 2008 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 10:19:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: <2995D51526C5492197E964F44374E4F5@jdnet.deere.com> References: <546CAE94DE874208B4724B467D831E83@media> <2995D51526C5492197E964F44374E4F5@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: I found a small leak at the brake master cylinder on my '60 TR3. I ordered a new cylinder, which came in yesterday. It looks like a simple swap, but the shop manual doesn't have much on changing it out, which I plan to do this weekend. Is there anything I should look out for? I have noticed that some TR3's have a bolt with nuts to act as a stop for the pedal in front of the cylinder bracket. I think it is so that the rod doesn't pull on the washer and ring at the front of the cylinder. Does that have any benefit? It seems that the fork can be adjusted to compensate for that. Thanks, Roger Wilson '60 TR3 From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 23 11:28:37 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 13:28:37 EDT Subject: [TR] Back on list Message-ID: In a message dated 10/23/2008 11:35:08 AM Central Daylight Time, chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com writes: > Hi Listers, > > I have been off the list since December last year and I am definitely > suffering from withdrawal symptoms. > > The reason was I took on the refurbishment of a MGB. I am glad that is now > out of the way and can get back into TRs. > > Happy to be back! > > Cheers > > Chris Buckley > > > > Ngala Lodge > > P O Box 1 > > Ngala > > Nkhotakota > > Malawi > > Welcome back. While you were gone we discussed ZDDP, What size tyres to use and why these darn heater valves are junk. Now you're all caught up. cheers Dave From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Thu Oct 23 11:34:27 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 13:34:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Back on list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <95B470DF-0204-4683-9241-01E423A4F492@mindspring.com> > Welcome back. While you were gone we discussed ZDDP, What size > tyres to use > and why these darn heater valves are junk. Now you're all caught up. > > cheers > > Dave Don't forget DOT4 vs. DOT5! Ashford Little '70 TR6 From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 23 11:41:06 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 13:41:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Back on list Message-ID: In a message dated 10/23/2008 12:34:31 PM Central Daylight Time, 70tr6 at mindspring.com writes: > Don't forget DOT4 vs. DOT5! > What was the outcome? Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 23 11:41:34 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 10:41:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: References: <546CAE94DE874208B4724B467D831E83@media><2995D51526C5492197E964F44374E4F5@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <2F229219C0BD4D51A1987641BB870F96@jdnet.deere.com> > Is there anything I should look out for? If memory serves, some of the replacements need an adapter to the original lines (which should have been supplied with it, if needed). Otherwise, it's straightforward. > I have noticed that some TR3's have a bolt with nuts to act as a stop for > the pedal in front of the cylinder bracket. I think it is so that the rod > doesn't pull on the washer and ring at the front of the cylinder. Does > that have any benefit? Apparently the factory decided it wasn't necessary, as the pedal stops were deleted on later cars. Not sure offhand when the change was made, but TS39781LO (made in 58) didn't have them either, while TS13571L (56) does. > It seems that the fork can be adjusted to compensate > for that. I don't think you want to try to adjust the fork until the pedal hits the box. So either let the cylinder take the force of the pedal banging up, or add the pedal stop to the box. If you do add the pedal stop, be sure that it doesn't hold the MC pushrod depressed at all. That can lead to weird symptoms where the brakes drag only when hot. This problem might have been why the factory chose to delete them. It's just the last little bit of MC piston travel that opens the 'foot' valve to allow expanding fluid to return to the reservoir. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Oct 23 11:52:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 10:52:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Back on list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <338D20D88E7246958E50701D5AFA282C@jdnet.deere.com> > > Don't forget DOT4 vs. DOT5! > > > What was the outcome? About the same as what fluif to use in dashpots. Randall From chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com Thu Oct 23 12:10:31 2008 From: chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com (Chris Buckley) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 20:10:31 +0200 Subject: [TR] Back on list In-Reply-To: <95B470DF-0204-4683-9241-01E423A4F492@mindspring.com> References: <95B470DF-0204-4683-9241-01E423A4F492@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <16465376BC174D9D872BE63CBDFC6FA5@chrisPC> Dave, What is zddp? Chris -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ashford Little Sent: 23 October 2008 07:34 PM To: Dave1massey at cs.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Back on list > Welcome back. While you were gone we discussed ZDDP, What size > tyres to use > and why these darn heater valves are junk. Now you're all caught up. > > cheers > > Dave Don't forget DOT4 vs. DOT5! Ashford Little '70 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com http://www.team.net/archive From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Thu Oct 23 14:57:01 2008 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 13:57:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: References: <546CAE94DE874208B4724B467D831E83@media> <2995D51526C5492197E964F44374E4F5@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Fred, Are you recommending filling and bleeding prior to installation? I have a mityvac, so that would not be a problem, but what is the advantage to bench bleeding? Roger -----Original Message----- From: FRED E THOMAS [mailto:frede.thomas2 at verizon.net] Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 12:33 PM To: Roger Wilson Subject: Re: [TR] Brake master cylinder Roger, fill it with fluid and bleed it out, install the unit and then adjust the the bolt/nut inor out, usually out from it's old position, bleeding and bench testing are very important rather than road testing (know what I me mean) "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Wilson" To: Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 1:19 PM Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder >I found a small leak at the brake master cylinder on my '60 TR3. I ordered > a new cylinder, which came in yesterday. It looks like a simple swap, but > the shop manual doesn't have much on changing it out, which I plan to do > this weekend. Is there anything I should look out for? > > I have noticed that some TR3's have a bolt with nuts to act as a stop for > the pedal in front of the cylinder bracket. I think it is so that the rod > doesn't pull on the washer and ring at the front of the cylinder. Does > that > have any benefit? It seems that the fork can be adjusted to compensate > for > that. > > Thanks, > Roger Wilson > '60 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimbpps at cox.net Thu Oct 23 15:00:47 2008 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 14:00:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux Message-ID: Fellow listers, I too am back on the list after more than a year off-list! I just needed to drop off the list for a while in order to more time to spend finishing the long in process restoration of my TR250. It isn't really finished yet of course, but certainly is as close as it needs to be for now. Two weeks ago I drove it from Scottsdale, AZ to Lake Tahoe to attend Triumphest, then to the SF Bay Area to visit friends, then home to Scottsdale. I did have a couple of minor issues crop up, but for all practical purposes, the car ran perfectly for the whole trip! I certainly have no complaints. Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 PS: The web site needs to be updated very badly. Maybe I will have time for that now too!! From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Thu Oct 23 15:07:32 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 17:07:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Back on list References: <95B470DF-0204-4683-9241-01E423A4F492@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <008401c93553$5e550e40$0300a8c0@Desktop> OH good answer Ashford and your right Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com> To: Cc: Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Back on list >> Welcome back. While you were gone we discussed ZDDP, What size >> tyres to use >> and why these darn heater valves are junk. Now you're all caught up. >> >> cheers >> >> Dave > > > Don't forget DOT4 vs. DOT5! > > Ashford Little > '70 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 23 15:33:22 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 17:33:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Back on list In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4900B562.29119.57BD3E@localhost> On 23 Oct 2008 at 13:41, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > Don't forget DOT4 vs. DOT5! > > > What was the outcome? The difference is 1. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Thu Oct 23 18:23:43 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 18:23:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: References: <546CAE94DE874208B4724B467D831E83@media><2995D51526C5492197E964F44374E4F5@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Safety! You are much less likely to be injured if the M/C fails on the bench. Fill it up, put a little pressure on it, bleed it out. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Wilson Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 2:57 PM To: 'FRED E THOMAS'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brake master cylinder Fred, Are you recommending filling and bleeding prior to installation? I have a mityvac, so that would not be a problem, but what is the advantage to bench bleeding? Roger -----Original Message----- From: FRED E THOMAS [mailto:frede.thomas2 at verizon.net] Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 12:33 PM To: Roger Wilson Subject: Re: [TR] Brake master cylinder Roger, fill it with fluid and bleed it out, install the unit and then adjust the the bolt/nut inor out, usually out from it's old position, bleeding and bench testing are very important rather than road testing (know what I me mean) "FT" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Roger Wilson" To: Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 1:19 PM Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder >I found a small leak at the brake master cylinder on my '60 TR3. I >ordered a new cylinder, which came in yesterday. It looks like a >simple swap, but the shop manual doesn't have much on changing it out, >which I plan to do this weekend. Is there anything I should look out for? > > I have noticed that some TR3's have a bolt with nuts to act as a stop > for the pedal in front of the cylinder bracket. I think it is so that > the rod doesn't pull on the washer and ring at the front of the > cylinder. Does that have any benefit? It seems that the fork can be > adjusted to compensate for that. > > Thanks, > Roger Wilson > '60 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.2/1740 - Release Date: 10/23/2008 3:29 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 23 20:05:57 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 22:05:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Back on list Message-ID: In a message dated 10/23/2008 1:10:53 PM Central Daylight Time, chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com writes: > Dave, > What is zddp? > Zinc dithiophosphates are additives to reduce wear in engines with solid (not roller) cam followers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ZDDP There is a lot of discussion and a fair amount of folklore surrounding the topic. But that may not be an issue where you live. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 23 20:10:24 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 22:10:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux Message-ID: In a message dated 10/23/2008 4:01:04 PM Central Daylight Time, jimbpps at cox.net writes: > I too am back on the list after more than a year off-list! > > I just needed to drop off the list for a while in order to more time to > spend > finishing the long in process restoration of my TR250. > So, what size tires did you get? Oh, sorry. Never mind. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Oct 23 20:12:12 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 22:12:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Back on list Message-ID: In a message dated 10/23/2008 4:33:41 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >>Don't forget DOT4 vs. DOT5! > >> > >What was the outcome? > > The difference is 1. > You know, there are three kinds of people in the world: Those who are good at math and those who aren't. Dave From spitlist at cox.net Thu Oct 23 21:28:03 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 20:28:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert Message-ID: <2390D724480F44D7A7B5CC99E6E2B3A6@newcomputer> There is a TR6 on today's CSI. Joe From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Oct 23 22:13:30 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 21:13:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Odds that old water pump is any good? In-Reply-To: <48FD527F.80900@comcast.net> References: <48FD527F.80900@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49014B6A.90801@comcast.net> Based on everyones advice, I decided to replace my old water pump. This evening I was in the shop looking at the old pump and decided to disassemble it. If I had decided to replace it anyway, what did I have to loose other than a little time. I carefully pressed it apart and found that it's really in pretty good shape. The bearing feels well lubricated and spins nice and smooth. The seal surfaces and shaft are clean and shiny. I pressed it all back together and am going to run it the way it is. Someone must have replaced it very shortly before taking the car off the road. One question: My shop manual has a picture that says the impeller clearance should be "085". No decimal point or indication of the type of units. Everything else in the manual is in inches. They can't possibly mean .085". That's a really huge gap. Anyone know what it should be set to? Thanks, Mike From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 23 22:13:28 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 00:13:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49011328.3637.1C60ABD@localhost> On 23 Oct 2008 at 18:23, wbeech wrote: > Safety! You are much less likely to be injured if the M/C fails > on the bench. No laughing matter. Injuries went down when benches with ABS became available. But then people started talking on cell phones while on their benches, and all the statistical gains from the previous decade went right out the window. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Oct 23 22:17:11 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 21:17:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Odds that old water pump is any good? In-Reply-To: <49014B6A.90801@comcast.net> References: <48FD527F.80900@comcast.net> <49014B6A.90801@comcast.net> Message-ID: <49014C47.7080903@comcast.net> Sorry, I forgot to remind everybody that this is off of a 57 TR3. Thanks, Mike Michael Lang wrote: > Based on everyones advice, I decided to replace my old water pump. > > This evening I was in the shop looking at the old pump and decided to > disassemble it. If I had decided to replace it anyway, what did I have > to loose other than a little time. I carefully pressed it apart and > found that it's really in pretty good shape. The bearing feels well > lubricated and spins nice and smooth. The seal surfaces and shaft are > clean and shiny. > > I pressed it all back together and am going to run it the way it is. > Someone must have replaced it very shortly before taking the car off the > road. > > One question: My shop manual has a picture that says the impeller > clearance should be "085". No decimal point or indication of the type of > units. Everything else in the manual is in inches. They can't possibly > mean .085". That's a really huge gap. Anyone know what it should be set to? From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Oct 23 22:22:21 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 23:22:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Back on list References: Message-ID: > Welcome back. While you were gone we discussed ZDDP, What size tyres to > use > and why these darn heater valves are junk. Now you're all caught up. > > cheers > > Dave Don't forget DOT 5 brake fliuf! Mike From mmarr at notwires.com Thu Oct 23 22:24:36 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 23:24:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux References: Message-ID: <137CF7DCDCB44057AAAD546E94088DE8@mikeslaptop> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Bauder" To: "TR List" Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 4:00 PM Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux > Fellow listers, > > I too am back on the list after more than a year off-list! > I thought this was another thread on brake shoes when I saw the subject line... (Jim Mueller will get this joke if nobody else does). Mike From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Oct 24 05:12:38 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 07:12:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert References: <2390D724480F44D7A7B5CC99E6E2B3A6@newcomputer> Message-ID: <000601c935c9$6f919400$0300a8c0@Desktop> I thought it was a Tr250 some body will get a picture of it Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 11:28 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert > There is a TR6 on today's CSI. > > > > Joe > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wbmcleod at gmail.com Fri Oct 24 05:08:50 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 04:08:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-10 Parts for sale Message-ID: <27354CAA-C149-4950-BE8C-388F35447E25@gmail.com> I am retiring due to health and age, and am completely selling out my Triumph inventory of STUFF, about 30 years worth. Most will appear on ebay as I find it and sort it out, but I do have a rust-free TR-10 sedan which I am parting out, including a good rear axle for you Lotus racers, good engine, trans, seats (frames) and much more. Email if you would like pictures! The sedan parts are in addition to the clean, rust-free, running (sort of), titled Estate Wagon which I need to sell. Sorry to bomb the list, but I need to get the word out.... Thanks Bill McLeod Slightly Classics Tucson, AZ From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 24 06:02:05 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:02:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Back on list Message-ID: <3C1007EA.0EE577C3.36296DCF@cs.com> "Michael Marr" wrote: > >>> >> Welcome back. While you were gone we discussed ZDDP, What size tyres to >> use >> and why these darn heater valves are junk. Now you're all caught up. >> >> cheers >> >> Dave > >Don't forget DOT 5 brake fliuf! > >Mike > > > That's one thing I'm trying to do. ;-) Dave From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri Oct 24 08:22:52 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 14:22:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: References: <546CAE94DE874208B4724B467D831E83@media> <2995D51526C5492197E964F44374E4F5@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Vacuum bleeding is fine for routine brake bleeding after changing shoes and pads. However, when you are installing an new master cylinder bench bleeding is the only way to get all the air out of it. I bought a little kit for bench bleeding from TRF 20+ years ago and it makes the process simple. Best regards,Tom -- _________________________________________________________________ Want to read Hotmail messages in Outlook? The Wordsmiths show you how. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 24 08:38:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 07:38:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > However, when you are installing an > new master cylinder bench bleeding is the only way to get all > the air out of it. Well, just to present the opposing viewpoint, I have never bench bled, and it's never caused me any problems. I rebuilt both MCs on TS13571L just the other day; both pedals are high and firm after just ordinary bleeding of the brakes and my usual "pump and hold" technique on the clutch. This car was "put away wet" over 30 years ago; what I found in every single aluminum hydraulic cylinder would make a poster for why I hate glycol fluid. Not just seized, but full of hard, crunchy yellow stuff that I literally had to chip away. Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Oct 24 09:11:21 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 10:11:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Ditto and ditto to what Randall said (though I suspect he'll not appreciate the term "ditto" for it's Rush Lmbaugh connotations ;-). And I've never had the dreaded air bubble entrainment with silicone fluid either. Maybe some tiny amount I never noticed even when re-bleeding to make sure, but never enough to see or to have a soft or low pedal. These are simple cars with simple brake systems - even the last ones with dual systems. No such thing as bench bleeding back then, and we all did just fine. Just bleed it conventionally (and carefully) and you'll have a safe and reliable braking system. Current ABS stuff is a vastly different story, but TR's didn't come with them - thank God. Karl > Well, just to present the opposing viewpoint, I have never bench bled, and > it's never caused me any problems. I rebuilt both MCs on TS13571L just > the > other day; both pedals are high and firm after just ordinary bleeding of > the > brakes and my usual "pump and hold" technique on the clutch. > > This car was "put away wet" over 30 years ago; what I found in every > single > aluminum hydraulic cylinder would make a poster for why I hate glycol > fluid. > Not just seized, but full of hard, crunchy yellow stuff that I literally > had > to chip away. From spitlist at cox.net Fri Oct 24 09:22:21 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:22:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert In-Reply-To: <000601c935c9$6f919400$0300a8c0@Desktop> References: <2390D724480F44D7A7B5CC99E6E2B3A6@newcomputer> <000601c935c9$6f919400$0300a8c0@Desktop> Message-ID: <7306C0FEACDB45149AACE7A3F80036DF@newcomputer> I wasn't sure myself because they never showed a full shot of it. When I saw the shot of the front clip, the side light sorta looked like that of a TR250 but there was no stripe. When the camera panned down the side (from mid-front fender, it didn't look to me to be the TR4/250 body style. Hopefully someone got a better shot than I saw. They didn't dwell on any shot long enough to get a 100 percent confident reading. Joe. -----Original Message----- From: Craig [mailto:wensley_Tr at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 4:13 AM To: 6-Pack at autox.team.net; FOT (E-mail); Triumphs at autox.team.net; Joe Curry Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph on TV alert I thought it was a Tr250 some body will get a picture of it Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 11:28 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert > There is a TR6 on today's CSI. > > > > Joe > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 24 09:22:52 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 10:22:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <001101c935ec$9566dc30$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> never bench bled either.... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 9:38 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Brake master cylinder >> However, when you are installing an >> new master cylinder bench bleeding is the only way to get all >> the air out of it. > > Well, just to present the opposing viewpoint, I have never bench bled, and > it's never caused me any problems. I rebuilt both MCs on TS13571L just > the > other day; both pedals are high and firm after just ordinary bleeding of > the > brakes and my usual "pump and hold" technique on the clutch. > > This car was "put away wet" over 30 years ago; what I found in every > single > aluminum hydraulic cylinder would make a poster for why I hate glycol > fluid. > Not just seized, but full of hard, crunchy yellow stuff that I literally > had > to chip away. > > Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 24 10:15:17 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 12:15:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder Message-ID: <20081024121517.BPT94387@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Randall answered: > > However, when you are installing an new master cylinder > > bench bleeding is the only way to get all the air out of it. > Well, just to present the opposing viewpoint, I have never > bench bled, and it's never caused me any problems. When I replaced all the brake lines in the Spitfire I sure didn't bench-bleed them! Fluif would have drippppped all over the place as I put the lines in. Had no trouble bleeding them in situ. Have had no brake trouble since then. --- Jim Muller From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Fri Oct 24 10:32:42 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 12:32:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert In-Reply-To: <7306C0FEACDB45149AACE7A3F80036DF@newcomputer> Message-ID: Joe, et al, Later in the show, they gave a good frontal shot of the LH side of the car and it was definitely a TR6. I'm not an expert on the subtle differences of the grilles but it look like a late model (post 73). Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Curry Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 11:22 AM To: 'Craig'; 6-Pack at autox.team.net; 'FOT(E-mail)'; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph on TV alert I wasn't sure myself because they never showed a full shot of it. When I saw the shot of the front clip, the side light sorta looked like that of a TR250 but there was no stripe. When the camera panned down the side (from mid-front fender, it didn't look to me to be the TR4/250 body style. Hopefully someone got a better shot than I saw. They didn't dwell on any shot long enough to get a 100 percent confident reading. Joe. -----Original Message----- From: Craig [mailto:wensley_Tr at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 4:13 AM To: 6-Pack at autox.team.net; FOT (E-mail); Triumphs at autox.team.net; Joe Curry Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph on TV alert I thought it was a Tr250 some body will get a picture of it Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 11:28 PM Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert > There is a TR6 on today's CSI. > > > > Joe From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 24 11:16:51 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 17:16:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder Message-ID: <102420081716.5097.49020303000D0900000013E922155751149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: > Randall answered: > > > However, when you are installing an new master cylinder > > > bench bleeding is the only way to get all the air out of it. > > > Well, just to present the opposing viewpoint, I have never > > bench bled, and it's never caused me any problems. > > When I replaced all the brake lines in the Spitfire I sure didn't bench-bleed > them! Fluif would have drippppped all over the place as I put the lines in. > Had no trouble bleeding them in situ. Have had no brake trouble since then. > --- > Jim Muller Sam ting. I use a Gunson E Z Bleed and have never had any trouble. Replaced all the lines in a Europa and it bled out fine. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Oct 24 11:23:38 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 13:23:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <8CB0414630635BD-1188-F58@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Karl Vacek B ...These are simple cars with simple brake systems - even the last ones with dual systems. No such thing as bench bleeding back then, and we all did just fine. Just bleed it conventionally (and carefully) and you'll have a safe and reliable braking system.B B ==AM== I've never bench-bled a single-circuit master cylinder system, although I've tried it on a dual-circuit Spitfire system, where it did seem to speed the process slightly. But I've done those before without bench bleeding as well. OTOH, I replaced the dual master cylinder on my daughter's Mazda Pickup. The cylinder came with instructions for bench bleeding as well as plastic fittings and hoses to enable that process. I followed the instructions, then carefully and quickly swapped in the new cylinder...and didn't even have to bleed the rest of the system. Cool. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From AA00727 at aol.com Fri Oct 24 11:45:25 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 13:45:25 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels Message-ID: Can anyone tell me what the TR3 steering wheels are made of? Has anyone found a good material for repairing cracks in these steering wheels? Gary in WI **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics b check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001) From mathews at uga.edu Fri Oct 24 11:55:41 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 13:55:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20081024175548.4FACB18764E@autox.team.net> Some time ago I purchased a book on the subject and 1 day I'll try it on an old steering wheel I have. It sounds reasonable. Here is a link to a kit from Eastwood.....never used the kit or read the book, so as they say...caveat emptor! http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=SWRK&dept=11 Doug At 01:45 PM 10/24/2008, AA00727 at aol.com wrote: >Can anyone tell me what the TR3 steering wheels are made of? From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Fri Oct 24 12:06:07 2008 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 14:06:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire-dragging disc caliper In-Reply-To: <8CB0414630635BD-1188-F58@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <8CB0414630635BD-1188-F58@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: I replaced the disc calipers on my 1980 Spit with rebuilt ones at the same time I replaced the braided hose connectors all around (but not the brake lines themselves). I now get pulling to the right. I have done the pressure bleeding process twice. I am wondering if there is any scenario with air in the line that would cause one side to stick but not the other. Thanks for advice. Tim Gaines Clinton, SC 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 From spitlist at cox.net Fri Oct 24 12:25:49 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 11:25:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire-dragging disc caliper In-Reply-To: References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall><8CB0414630635BD-1188-F58@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Check to see if you have clearance on both sides of the caliper to the disk itself. I have seen instances where one side rubs against the disk. This can be corrected with shims or by modifying the calipers. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Gaines Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 11:06 AM To: TRIUMPHS at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire-dragging disc caliper I replaced the disc calipers on my 1980 Spit with rebuilt ones at the same time I replaced the braided hose connectors all around (but not the brake lines themselves). I now get pulling to the right. I have done the pressure bleeding process twice. I am wondering if there is any scenario with air in the line that would cause one side to stick but not the other. Thanks for advice. Tim Gaines Clinton, SC 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 24 12:59:33 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 14:59:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Spitfire-dragging disc caliper Message-ID: <20081024145933.BPU37404@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Tim Gaines pondered: >I am wondering if there is any scenario with air in the line > that would cause one side to stick but not the other. That's hard to imagine if your lines are clear, seeing as how the two sides are connected directly together and seeing as how pressure is uniformly distributed throughout a fluif (if you ignore the fact that non-zero fluif density gives a very tiny change in pressure with height). On the other hand, you might have a bit of debris in one of the lines which manages to act as a valve by lodging into a narrow spot in the line. Usually though, AFAIK, that sort of thing is due to deterioration of the inside of a flexible hose. Hard to imagine debris in a solid line behaving so consistently. -- Jim Muller From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Oct 24 13:16:25 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 12:16:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire-dragging disc caliper In-Reply-To: References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall><8CB0414630635BD-1188-F58@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <6AADEF01A3F645DD9A64DBB819BA3E31@jdnet.deere.com> > I now get pulling to the right. Do you mean pulling all the time, or just when you apply the brakes? If the latter, it's possible the pads or rotor on the other side got contaminated during the process, and no longer stop as well. Could also be a hydraulic blockage on that side, preventing it from working. If it's pulling all the time, I would start by jacking up the front of the car and investigating which brake is dragging. If you crack the bleed valve and the brake frees up, then it's a hydraulic problem to that caliper. Otherwise it's the caliper itself either hanging up or (as someone already mentioned) dragging against the rotor. Randall From mathews at uga.edu Fri Oct 24 13:30:14 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 15:30:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire-dragging disc caliper In-Reply-To: <6AADEF01A3F645DD9A64DBB819BA3E31@jdnet.deere.com> References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <8CB0414630635BD-1188-F58@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> <6AADEF01A3F645DD9A64DBB819BA3E31@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <20081024193020.3CBB118764E@autox.team.net> I'm not sure if you mentioned it in the first email, but did you turn the rotors? If not, it may be an out of round condition on the rotor that it is hitting the new pads....outside chance but worth the look. Have you done a run out measurement ion the rotor? At 03:16 PM 10/24/2008, Randall wrote: >Do you mean pulling all the time, or just when you apply the brakes? From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Oct 24 14:05:11 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 16:05:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <84B27EEECCE54B1A9D23D0DFF3C53ED8@BOBSNEWPC> I never even heard of bench bleeding until this post.......but that doesn't mean much. I replaced my M/C in '07 and had it off the car again this past winter. Obviously I didn't bench bleed it either time and the brakes are nice and firm and I had no problem bleeding them either time. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 10:39 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brake master cylinder > However, when you are installing an > new master cylinder bench bleeding is the only way to get all the air > out of it. Well, just to present the opposing viewpoint, I have never bench bled, and it's never caused me any problems. I rebuilt both MCs on TS13571L just the other day; both pedals are high and firm after just ordinary bleeding of the brakes and my usual "pump and hold" technique on the clutch. This car was "put away wet" over 30 years ago; what I found in every single aluminum hydraulic cylinder would make a poster for why I hate glycol fluid. Not just seized, but full of hard, crunchy yellow stuff that I literally had to chip away. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 24 14:13:44 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 16:13:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Bench bleeding Message-ID: <20081024161344.BPU55640@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Bob Danielson wrote: > I never even heard of bench bleeding until this post... On the other hand, I've bled *on* the bench many times. It comes with ownership, I believe. -- Jim Muller, counting my fingers as I type this '80 Spitfire '70 GT6+ From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Fri Oct 24 14:56:31 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 16:56:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels Message-ID: I think I have seen someone commenting that they used JB Weld with success. Jim ===================================== Can anyone tell me what the TR3 steering wheels are made of? Has anyone found a good material for repairing cracks in these steering wheels? Gary in WI From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Oct 24 15:27:06 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 17:27:06 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels Message-ID: In a message dated 10/24/2008 1:56:54 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes: I think I have seen someone commenting that they used JB Weld with success. Jim ===================================== Can anyone tell me what the TR3 steering wheels are made of? Has anyone found a good material for repairing cracks in these steering wheels? Gary in WI _______________________________________________ I bought the Eastwood book several years ago and have repaired several wheels to therir directions, It calls for PC-7, but you need to start shaping it before it full cures,You also need to grind right down to the wire. Mike Moore **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics b check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 24 16:09:37 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 17:09:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels References: Message-ID: <000a01c93625$36bcea10$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> aren't they made of bakelite? bakelight? isn't that a plastic? ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 4:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels > In a message dated 10/24/2008 1:56:54 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes: > > I think I have seen someone commenting that they used JB Weld with > success. > Jim > ===================================== > Can anyone tell me what the TR3 steering wheels are made of? > > Has anyone found a good material for repairing cracks in these steering > wheels? > > Gary in WI From wbmcleod at gmail.com Fri Oct 24 16:25:42 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 15:25:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels In-Reply-To: <000a01c93625$36bcea10$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> References: <000a01c93625$36bcea10$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> Message-ID: <24B53906-B55E-4B8B-8FBE-F2AF93F0EC79@gmail.com> Check the Wikipedia article on bakelite. One of the properties of bakelite steering wheels is that they slowly disintegrate in sunlight. I don't believe bakelite is made any more (gives off poisonous fumes in very small quantities) but it was pretty impressive stuff. In addition to steering wheels, ash trays, knobs and even some distributor rotors were made from bakelite. Bill Slightly Classics Tucson On Oct 24, 2008, at 3:09 PM, Oliver wrote: > aren't they made of bakelite? bakelight? isn't that a plastic? > > ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: ; > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 4:27 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels > > >> In a message dated 10/24/2008 1:56:54 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, >> grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes: >> >> I think I have seen someone commenting that they used JB Weld with >> success. >> Jim >> ===================================== >> Can anyone tell me what the TR3 steering wheels are made of? >> >> Has anyone found a good material for repairing cracks in these >> steering >> wheels? >> >> Gary in WI > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbmcleod at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From ggelhar at earthlink.net Thu Oct 23 16:34:01 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 17:34:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels Message-ID: <380-220081042322341718@earthlink.net> I like Bondo Bumper Epoxy for this repair. This is one of those must have items in the garage. It cures into a slightly flexible, black compound perfect for many repairs. Use it just like JB Weld for plastic items. Check out their site. . . . . http://www.automotivetouchup.com/store/bumper_and_body_repair/flexible_part_ bumper_repair.aspx Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . > Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering wheels > > > > Has anyone found a good material for repairing cracks in these steering > wheels? > > Gary in WI > > http://www.team.net/archive From mathews at uga.edu Fri Oct 24 19:09:16 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:09:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Bench Bleeding Message-ID: <20081025010920.6288018794D@autox.team.net> The latest auto tech school books have bench bleeding as the standard for installing / rebuilding a master cylinder. Obviously from the post on the subject, it still works the "older" way. My text says it removes air from inside the MC. I guess that might make it a little easier in that it might put less air in the lines resulting in less bleeding all around. Doug From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 24 19:13:25 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 21:13:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux In-Reply-To: <137CF7DCDCB44057AAAD546E94088DE8@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <49023A75.5578.647909F@localhost> On 23 Oct 2008 at 23:24, Michael Marr wrote: > I thought this was another thread on brake shoes when I saw the subject > line... > > (Jim Mueller will get this joke if nobody else does). I tried to cobble together a reply but couldn't quite get to the soul of the matter. -- Jim Muller (with only one 'e', the second one) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Oct 24 20:03:08 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 22:03:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert References: <2390D724480F44D7A7B5CC99E6E2B3A6@newcomputer> <000601c935c9$6f919400$0300a8c0@Desktop> <7306C0FEACDB45149AACE7A3F80036DF@newcomputer> Message-ID: <002c01c93645$d4137ca0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Joe.....its a Tr6 with a chrome stripe down the side That's new one on me Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: "'Craig'" ; <6-Pack at autox.team.net>; "'FOT (E-mail)'" ; Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 11:22 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Triumph on TV alert >I wasn't sure myself because they never showed a full shot of it. When I > saw the shot of the front clip, the side light sorta looked like that of a > TR250 but there was no stripe. When the camera panned down the side (from > mid-front fender, it didn't look to me to be the TR4/250 body style. > > Hopefully someone got a better shot than I saw. They didn't dwell on any > shot long enough to get a 100 percent confident reading. > > Joe. > > -----Original Message----- > From: Craig [mailto:wensley_Tr at comcast.net] > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 4:13 AM > To: 6-Pack at autox.team.net; FOT (E-mail); Triumphs at autox.team.net; Joe > Curry > Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph on TV alert > > I thought it was a Tr250 some body will get a picture of it > Craig > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Curry" > To: > Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 11:28 PM > Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert > > >> There is a TR6 on today's CSI. >> >> >> >> Joe >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Oct 24 20:27:22 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 22:27:22 EDT Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux Message-ID: In a message dated 10/24/2008 8:14:19 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > >I thought this was another thread on brake shoes when I saw the subject > >line... > > > >(Jim Mueller will get this joke if nobody else does). > > I tried to cobble together a reply but couldn't quite get to the soul > of the matter. > What's the matter? Cat got your tongue? Dave From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Oct 24 21:00:55 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 23:00:55 EDT Subject: [TR] Bench Bleeding Message-ID: In a message dated 10/24/2008 6:10:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mathews at uga.edu writes: The latest auto tech school books have bench bleeding as the standard for installing / rebuilding a master cylinder. Obviously from the post on the subject, it still works the "older" way. My text says it removes air from inside the MC. I guess that might make it a little easier in that it might put less air in the lines resulting in less bleeding all around. Doug In 1966, I was out of town and my wife called and told me she had no brakes on the family car (62 Chrysler) as the pedal went to the floor. She walked to the Chrysler dealership, and they told her she needed a master cylinder. They showed her how to remove it. She took it off, waited while it was rebuilt and bench bled, then walked it back and installed it. Voila! Mike Moore **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics b check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 24 21:12:33 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 23:12:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <49025661.14751.6B4A2FC@localhost> On 24 Oct 2008 at 22:27, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > > >I thought this was another thread on brake shoes when I saw the subject > > >line... > > I tried to cobble together a reply but couldn't quite get to the soul > > of the matter. > > > What's the matter? Cat got your tongue? Well, I never metatarsal I did't like. But the GT6 really does need new shoes. (And the Spitfire's gearbox still drips oil onto the exhaust pipe.) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Oct 24 21:26:57 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 22:26:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux References: <49023A75.5578.647909F@localhost> Message-ID: You nailed it! Sorry about the extra "E" - I knew better than that. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 8:13 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Back on the last---Redux > On 23 Oct 2008 at 23:24, Michael Marr wrote: > >> I thought this was another thread on brake shoes when I saw the subject >> line... >> >> (Jim Mueller will get this joke if nobody else does). > > I tried to cobble together a reply but couldn't quite get to the soul > of the matter. > -- > Jim Muller (with only one 'e', the second one) From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Oct 24 21:30:27 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 22:30:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux References: <49025661.14751.6B4A2FC@localhost> Message-ID: <580BDE50D924464F9D5D62BB5AE445D6@mikeslaptop> You mean like the guy from North Carolina, who, when asked where he got his 165-15s from, said "Ah got them at the tarsal." Mike (who never met a pun he didn't like) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 10:12 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Back on the last---Redux > On 24 Oct 2008 at 22:27, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > >> > >I thought this was another thread on brake shoes when I saw the >> > >subject >> > >line... > >> > I tried to cobble together a reply but couldn't quite get to the soul >> > of the matter. >> > >> What's the matter? Cat got your tongue? > > Well, I never metatarsal I did't like. > > But the GT6 really does need new shoes. (And the Spitfire's gearbox > still drips oil onto the exhaust pipe.) > > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat Oct 25 03:24:34 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 05:24:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <66192C3F-E2C6-4B7E-8844-8277917F0407@comcast.net> The steering wheel on my TR4 seemed to be a grey, fibrous material. I took care to not breathe it in. You can buy a kit from Eastwood: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2569&itemType=PRODUCT Or you can put a kit together yourself. PC7 is the filler in the Eastwood kit. It is available from any decent hardware store, HD, and Lowes. It sets to a similar density to the original wheel casting. For the cracks, a used a dremel to cut out grooves from this ||, to wider fissures shaped /__\ as much as possible, much wider than the original cracks. Give yourself the time to sand the PC7 back to the original contours. This is the time-consuming part, if you take care. The pick up a primer and top coat of your choice. I went with an plastic adhesive promoter first in case the sanded original surface had any plastic-like tendencies, then a sandable primer (x2), then top coat (x 4 coats). Brian From kvacek at ameritech.net Sat Oct 25 07:34:52 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 08:34:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Back on the last---Redux References: Message-ID: <5A9EA57B005246DFA875DB3A28CFEC9D@KARL> Isn't that Cat's Paw ? Karl > What's the matter? Cat got your tongue? > > Dave From coefront at shaw.ca Sat Oct 25 07:36:41 2008 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 07:36:41 -0600 Subject: [TR] Purchase of TR8 Message-ID: I have a friend seeking the purchase of a TR8. Please assists me Mike. coefront at shaw.ca Mike Coe From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Oct 25 11:53:12 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 12:53:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] drill bits and taps Message-ID: <001301c936ca$8df4e3a0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> hi, all. i've got to drill out a head bolt/stud, and then clean up all the threads on the block. i think its 7/16th but i'd have to check. i've always been frustrated by the lack of bite and hardness of drill bits. got a favorite? how about a tap and die set? is that what i need? got a favorite? thanks! From ashleys at es.co.nz Sat Oct 25 16:10:56 2008 From: ashleys at es.co.nz (William Ashley Southgate) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 11:10:56 +1300 Subject: [TR] Fw: New TR6; now TR4A Message-ID: <001a01c936ee$8e9c8af0$51a56dcb@customerr1g0ss> ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Ashley Southgate" To: Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 11:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] New TR6; now TR4A > Hi! How many TR4As still with owner from new. I am one of > those,68000miles,one valve grind,new timing chain,new carb > jets,overdrive rebuilt due to whine from new,repaint,wire wheels rebuilt > due to towing trailer,draw bar now removed,motor > still very quite. > > Ashley NZ From maya2blue at juno.com Sat Oct 25 19:24:07 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 20:24:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] hardtop available Message-ID: <20081025.202407.6064.1.maya2blue@juno.com> I have a 100% finished and painted original hardtop that fits (among other years) a '78 Spitfire. It has a new headliner, all of the hardware needed to mount with the soft top in place, all of the glass - all of everything. New everything last year. All work done by restoration expert with all paper work available. Some extra glass (rear quarter glass, weather stripping, etc etc) Currently painted HAE green. Fair price. Contact me off list if you have any interest. I would suggest a pickup rather than shipping, but would ship at buyer's expense. Best Harve Harve Thorn NASS #79 531 Amen Corner Nice '78 Spitfire Fayetteville, AR Looking for a nice GT-6 72701 USA Tel 1.479.443.0818 evening or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Click to find information on your credit score and your credit report. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2PcWbE8vs6MytOHsYrdiNzMX7KZxmcXExSF0c7TEriE7rD/ From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Oct 25 21:54:55 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 23:54:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] more brake pedal height Message-ID: A few days ago I mentioned that my TR6 brake pedal is almost 3" lower at rest than the clutch pedal. John Mitchell kindly took some measurements on his car for me, and I believe now that the clutch pedal is at the right height and the brake pedal is lower than it should be. The only thing I can figure, is that the booster operating rod linked to the pedal is shorter than spec for a TR6. No idea how that could happen; maybe the booster replaced by a different model by the PO. Anyway, I think I can gain about an inch by removing the aluminum spacer and mout the booster directly against the firewall. What do you guys think of that? Any obvious problems, safety issues, etc. that I don't see? Thanks, Tom From joseph_mannino at yahoo.com Thu Oct 23 19:27:06 2008 From: joseph_mannino at yahoo.com (Joseph Mannino) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 18:27:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 1975 TR6 Message-ID: <78373.62585.qm@web52805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I am considering buying a 1975 TR6 with 68K mi. and need some guidance. Firstly, I'm not a great mechanic and I'm not looking for a headache. Just want a third car to drive on sunny, summer days. On the VTR website, there seems to be some great info on what goes wrong with these cars. Things like rear hubs, transmission, and U-joints sound like a expensive nightmare to repair. I have been reading about the wearing out of Thrust Washers and testing them. Do all engines go through this problem, what causes it? Is there a particular year that is better than others?? I have a friend that I have yet to call, he is the original owner of a 1974 BRG TR6. I'm sure he can also shed some more light on this "risky" subject. Any information you can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Joseph C. Mannino Smithtown, NY From DLylis at aol.com Sun Oct 26 04:25:27 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 07:25:27 EDT Subject: [TR] drill bits and taps Message-ID: In a message dated 10/25/2008 12:54:06 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: how about a tap and die set? is that what i need? got a favorite? Since drill bits have gone overseas for manufacture, I would have to agree that they are almost throwaways unless you either, learn to sharpen them on a wheel or buy a drill bit sharpener. They don't seem to have much staying power. It is worth going to an industrial supply house and paying more. I highly recommend finding a good tap and die set with matching bits. It is much quicker and easier to get it right the first time. Stay pretty much away from the 'big box' stores like HD and Lowes. Craftsman makes respectable stuff and tend to stand behind it. Again; industrial supply. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf ooter) From ms6453 at optonline.net Sun Oct 26 04:26:44 2008 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 07:26:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1975 TR6 In-Reply-To: <78373.62585.qm@web52805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <78373.62585.qm@web52805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <490453F4.70809@optonline.net> Joseph, If a TR6 is your goal and you want to avoid any large mechanical problems in your purchase then you must have the car throughly inspected. This really goes for any 30 plus year old mechanical machine. The VTR site gives a detailed list of check points that are critical. To me the most important would be making sure the car is solid in chassis & body, rust is very expensive to repair & can be spread through out the car. All of the other mechanicals can be repaired , replaced or upgraded at reasonable cost compared to most cars today. The maintenance & repair history of the car should also be a factor. It's rare that you recoup your investment in a restored project. That's what I'd look for. Start off with a car that has been semi or fully restored, an original car is nice but it's ready to be fully restored. The purchase price of a repaired car is usually much less then doing the repairs as you go. I would say that if paying a mechanic to fix every repair doesn't bother you , it is the type of car that does need maintenance & tinkering, but that's the fun & feeling of accomplishment it breeds. You should also go to the 6Pack web site for more info. I think you'll find that the responses from any Triumph site will be biased simply because we are. These cars are no more prone to problems than buying a 30+ year old Corvette, Mustang or even an MG (sorry guys). Have the cars your interested in looked over & post the results. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From rgperry at earthlink.net Sun Oct 26 06:34:47 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 08:34:47 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] Signing Off Message-ID: <26890454.1225028087364.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hello List, I will be signing of the list due to Hurricane Ike for a while. It has been nice reading and commenting on the various topics that come up. Regards, Greg Perry From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Oct 26 06:59:04 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 09:59:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Wheels In-Reply-To: <66192C3F-E2C6-4B7E-8844-8277917F0407@comcast.net> References: <66192C3F-E2C6-4B7E-8844-8277917F0407@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2246424AF4004DEBB0CD75084C8B8356@Scott> Bondo makes a nice product that is used to repair bumpers. You can spread it into cracks and gouges, let it harden and then sand it down, using progressively finer grade paper. It dries black so you do not have to paint. Once you are satisfied, you can polish it out with Brasso or a similar product to get a final sheen. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Jones Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2008 5:25 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Wheels The steering wheel on my TR4 seemed to be a grey, fibrous material. I took care to not breathe it in. You can buy a kit from Eastwood: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=2569&itemType=PRODUCT Or you can put a kit together yourself. PC7 is the filler in the Eastwood kit. It is available from any decent hardware store, HD, and Lowes. It sets to a similar density to the original wheel casting. For the cracks, a used a dremel to cut out grooves from this ||, to wider fissures shaped /__\ as much as possible, much wider than the original cracks. Give yourself the time to sand the PC7 back to the original contours. This is the time-consuming part, if you take care. The pick up a primer and top coat of your choice. I went with an plastic adhesive promoter first in case the sanded original surface had any plastic-like tendencies, then a sandable primer (x2), then top coat (x 4 coats). Brian ve From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 26 10:50:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 09:50:30 -0800 Subject: [TR] drill bits and taps In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081026165030.UBRT14650.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Stay pretty much away from the 'big > box' stores like HD and Lowes. It may have changed, but I've had good service from the "Hansen" set I got from Ace Hardware over 30 years ago. > Craftsman makes respectable > stuff and tend to stand behind it. So are you saying their taps & dies have not followed the general trend of their other tools? They used to be good stuff, but quality has dropped markedly in the last 20 year or so. BTW, the set I got from Harbor Freight actually cuts threads the wrong size. A definite thumbs-down. Randall From tr6 at pobox.com Sun Oct 26 11:05:52 2008 From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 13:05:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1975 TR6 In-Reply-To: <78373.62585.qm@web52805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <78373.62585.qm@web52805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4904B180.303@pobox.com> Random thoughts from someone that's had a '75 TR6 since 1983... o don't assume it really has 68K miles. Mine was rolled back -- and it is bloody easy to do. o Whether or not you're a mechanical type, it would be a good idea to get someone that is mechanical *AND* somewhat knowledgeable of Triumphs to look it over. It's just a good idea to have a disinterested, unemotional opinion. Trust some of your gut. If it looks like it has been seriously taken care of and not just cleaned up -- that is a good sign. o I don't care what anyone tells you. It's not an investment. It's a toy. It's a hobby. Sure it's possible you could turn a profit on these things, but it's not likely. I know mine easily has 2x what it is worth in it -- and it is by no means a show car. I'd call it "fair". (If you account for inflation, well... I'd rather not do that. I might cry.) o Just or the record, I've been through everything you listed. Rear hubs (check), transmission (check), U joints (check), thrust washers and resulting damage (check). As for what caused my thrust washer problem, I assure you it was the guy that rebuilt the engine before me. One thrust washer was secure in place. The other was brand new and shiny... at the bottom of the oil pan. o on the upside: These are bloody simple machines. When I bought mine, I was 18 years old and had never even changed my oil. But through the years, I have pretty much taken on every aspect of this thing from one end to the other. Almost everything can be done with simple tools. And parts are surprisingly available through several large mail order houses. o There are 2 very diverse paths people take with these cars: originality vs performance. You should probably figure out which path you are choosing and make sure the car you are buying matches it. In other words, if someone has kept it pristine, it would be a shame to start hacking on it. Or if someone has spent $10k on ignition, fuel systems, etc... It's going to cost you to undo the work they've done. In my opinion, if you really want high performance, this isn't the car for you. If you want horse power, there are plenty of cheaper, higher performance cars out there... and you are likely to never be able to compete with them for cost or power. If you really want a fun 3rd car to drive on a sunny day, you can't beat it. Joseph Mannino wrote: > I am considering buying a 1975 TR6 with 68K mi. and need some guidance. > Firstly, I'm not a great mechanic and I'm not looking for a headache. Just > want a third car to drive on sunny, summer days. > [ stuff deleted ] -- http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com -- The hypocrites are slandering The sacred halls of Truth Ancient nobles showering Their bitterness on youth Can't we find The minds that made us strong Can't we learn To feel what's right and wrong Neil Peart, "A Farewell to Kings", A Farewell to Kings (1977) From rbtr3a at cox.net Sun Oct 26 16:29:47 2008 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (ronnie babbitt) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 23:29:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] Test Message-ID: <1775997654-1225060241-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141377874-@bxe275.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Testing blackberry please disregard Sent from my BlackBerry. smartphone with Nextel Direct Connect From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Oct 26 16:26:37 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 19:26:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1975 TR6 In-Reply-To: <4904B180.303@pobox.com> References: <78373.62585.qm@web52805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4904C46D.7818.103281BC@localhost> On 26 Oct 2008 at 13:05, Mark Steph wrote: [some very good points about TR ownership, including] > There are 2 very diverse paths people take with these cars: > originality vs performance. I'd say this is a bit restrictive, for there is third path. Many originialty-violating things one might do to the car are for reliability, not necessarily for performance in the traditional sense of the word. For example, one might install different seats for comfort, a gearbox swap, or alternator swap. One might say they are for performance but only if one extends the definition of performance. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Oct 26 16:27:34 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 19:27:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Test In-Reply-To: <1775997654-1225060241-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1141377874-@bxe275.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <4904C4A6.5576.103360A3@localhost> On 26 Oct 2008 at 23:29, ronnie babbitt wrote: > Testing blackberry please disregard I tried to but, oh nevermind... -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Oct 26 18:07:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 17:07:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1975 TR6 In-Reply-To: <4904C46D.7818.103281BC@localhost> Message-ID: <20081027000750.ORY14650.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > One might say they are for performance but > only if one extends the definition of performance. Seems like a reasonable definition to me. I would add comfort, safety and pleasure to the definition as well. I would also say it's not black and white, but more of a spectrum from slavish originality (if you could find some NOS air, I'm sure someone would buy it) to outlandish modifications. But, as I always say, "It's your car, it should please you." Restore it right down to the original factory defects; or make it a reliable daily driver; it's your choice and don't let anyone tell you that's wrong. Randall - who like most Triumph owners falls somewhere in between the extremes From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Oct 26 18:02:26 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 20:02:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] Test References: <4904C4A6.5576.103360A3@localhost> Message-ID: Squishing between thumb and forefinger usually does the trick. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 6:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Test > On 26 Oct 2008 at 23:29, ronnie babbitt wrote: > >> Testing blackberry please disregard > > I tried to but, oh nevermind... > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 26 18:15:20 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 19:15:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] 1975 TR6 References: <78373.62585.qm@web52805.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <4904C46D.7818.103281BC@localhost> Message-ID: <001201c937d1$7c3ced30$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> oh, good. we've beaten so many other topics to death we've been needing a new one . . . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 5:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 1975 TR6 > On 26 Oct 2008 at 13:05, Mark Steph wrote: > [some very good points about TR ownership, including] >> There are 2 very diverse paths people take with these cars: >> originality vs performance. > > I'd say this is a bit restrictive, for there is third path. Many > originialty-violating things one might do to the car are for > reliability, not necessarily for performance in the traditional sense > of the word. For example, one might install different seats for > comfort, a gearbox swap, or alternator swap. One might say they are > for performance but only if one extends the definition of > performance. > > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From DLylis at aol.com Sun Oct 26 18:38:45 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 21:38:45 EDT Subject: [TR] drill bits and taps Message-ID: In a message dated 10/26/2008 11:50:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > Craftsman makes respectable > stuff and tend to stand behind it. So are you saying their taps & dies have not followed the general trend of their other tools? They used to be good stuff, but quality has dropped markedly in the last 20 year or so. Well, I guess that was a hasty statement as I have not much experience with Craftsman in the 21st century. It sounds like overseas outsourcing has taken its toll on Craftsman as well, yes? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf ooter) From opposumking at verizon.net Sun Oct 26 18:40:31 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 21:40:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] drill bits and taps References: <001301c936ca$8df4e3a0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> Message-ID: <5CF4F4A3BC404800B114B929D482FA1E@CPQ12949640186> For steel drilling, I've been pretty satisfied with some of the Bosch bits I have. Overall though, proper sharpening has been the thing, and my drill doctor lets me take mediocre drill bits and make them into fine drill bits. A tool like the Drill Doctor lets you sharpen bits consistently, which is darn important. Tap and Die sets you seem to very much get what you pay for. Wish it weren't so, as it hurts the wallet. For whatever reason, I keep seeing old Napa taps and dies at car shows, constantly. Of my mutt sets, none seem particularly better than another, as long as we're talking good names. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 27 06:09:01 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 13:09:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Seat installation. In-Reply-To: <20081027000750.ORY14650.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <4904C46D.7818.103281BC@localhost> <20081027000750.ORY14650.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: I took my TR3A on a very nice drive yesterday with my son as navigator. It was a warm beautiful day on top of the coastal mountains behind Santa Cruz. Now that my car is in a stable state of improvement my son suggested adding a stereo. How difficult is the installation of the early Miata seats in a TR3A? Do the spealers in the headrests of the Miata seats do justice to a good stereo system? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Stay organized with simple drag and drop from Windows Live Hotmail. From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Oct 27 06:33:02 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 09:33:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Yet another internet add featuring a TR - Message-ID: <380-220081012713332286@M2W033.mail2web.com> Listers, Just finished purchasing a fuel pump for the wife's 2002 mustang conv (can't wait to put that in :-P). Anyway, got it online from RockAuto.com, well, cause they had the best price - Got my confirmation email (HTML) and at the top, big as life is a nice, bright Yellow TR7 convertible with silver panasport wheels! With the top down at that! Very cool - Barry Schwartz -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From fogbro1 at comcast.net Mon Oct 27 08:21:30 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 11:21:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 seat rails wanted Message-ID: <001801c93847$b0ea5330$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Does anyone have a full or partial original set of TR3 seat rails (8 pieces) they'd part with? Please respond off list. Thanks, Ed Woods From cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca Mon Oct 27 12:37:30 2008 From: cameronjoyce at sympatico.ca (Cameron Joyce) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 15:37:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trunnion Shafts In-Reply-To: <613724250.327931224718047003.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <20081022031411.NLPX890.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> <613724250.327931224718047003.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Thanks Randall/Andrew/Terry for the guidance b Ibll go with new trunnions/upper arms and let you know how it works out. From: terryrs at comcast.net [mailto:terryrs at comcast.net] Sent: October-22-08 7:27 PM To: Randall Cc: Cameron Joyce; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Trunnion Shafts So, I would (did) just buy new trunnions. YMMV and all that. > My parts source recommends new ones ( and going > to 3 degree vs. original 0 degree), Having bought that t-shirt, I'd echoe Randall's advice. I replaced the trunnions in my TR3A frame-off. They've held up extremely well. The toughness in steering exacerbates when it's been awhile since last greasing the suspension, and I expect will improve remarkably when I install the new poly silentblocs. No wuuhries, mate. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Mon Oct 27 13:13:09 2008 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 13:13:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Brake master cylinder In-Reply-To: <84B27EEECCE54B1A9D23D0DFF3C53ED8@BOBSNEWPC> References: <20081024143856.URPO14973.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <84B27EEECCE54B1A9D23D0DFF3C53ED8@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <2391BDE59A0F46F7AD84CA55B07D5A9F@rwa.local> Changing out the master cylinder was pretty straightforward. There is a great access panel in the back which I didn't notice right away. I decided to bleed the master cylinder in the car, hooked up to the reservoir only. I was concerned about spilling fluid all over the place while trying to install the unit. It all worked fine, except when I went around bleed the brakes. I found a leaky cylinder at one of the rear brakes. I guess I should have checked it all out before I started. Somehow the scope of each project I do always expands. Roger Wilson '60 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 1:05 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brake master cylinder I never even heard of bench bleeding until this post.......but that doesn't mean much. I replaced my M/C in '07 and had it off the car again this past winter. Obviously I didn't bench bleed it either time and the brakes are nice and firm and I had no problem bleeding them either time. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 10:39 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Brake master cylinder > However, when you are installing an > new master cylinder bench bleeding is the only way to get all the air > out of it. Well, just to present the opposing viewpoint, I have never bench bled, and it's never caused me any problems. I rebuilt both MCs on TS13571L just the other day; both pedals are high and firm after just ordinary bleeding of the brakes and my usual "pump and hold" technique on the clutch. This car was "put away wet" over 30 years ago; what I found in every single aluminum hydraulic cylinder would make a poster for why I hate glycol fluid. Not just seized, but full of hard, crunchy yellow stuff that I literally had to chip away. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as rjwilson1250 at gmail.com http://www.team.net/archive From FordneyNJ at aol.com Mon Oct 27 17:01:49 2008 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:01:49 EDT Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 Message-ID: While on a club drive in NJ yesterday, one club member lost the engine in his Spitfire. Well, he really didn't lose it, he knows where it is. It just made some very ugly noises and stopped. Anyone know of a 1500 engine available close to NJ? Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 06536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics b check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001) From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com Mon Oct 27 17:30:09 2008 From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 20:30:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106D5F73A9B@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Hi Rodney, Is York, PA close enough to him? I've got a 1500 engine that (as far as I know) is good that was pulled out of a wrecked 78-ish Spit. I'd like to get it out of the storage unit so I'll let it go cheap if he can pick it up. Jim '68 Spitfire Mk3 '75 Spitfire 1500 '77 Spitfire 1500 NASS #302 York, PA www.littlebluespitfire.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FordneyNJ at aol.com Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 8:02 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire 1500 While on a club drive in NJ yesterday, one club member lost the engine in his Spitfire. Well, he really didn't lose it, he knows where it is. It just made some very ugly noises and stopped. Anyone know of a 1500 engine available close to NJ? Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 06536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics b check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jim.holmgren at corp.aol.com http://www.team.net/archive The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From dconnitt at fuse.net Mon Oct 27 18:31:03 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 21:31:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] drill bits and taps In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I went a slightly different path.. While at Sears one day I found a set of rethreading taps and dies. They look like cut off taps. They are one of the greatest set of tools I own. I never cross threaded anything and they are great for just cleaning out threads after or before sand blasting or painting. Now if I can just find that 3/8-UNF one that rolled under the workbench two weeks ago.... Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a Chassis done, starting weekend autobody course Saturday.. Start up the compressor here I come! From DLylis at aol.com Mon Oct 27 19:29:38 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 22:29:38 EDT Subject: [TR] drill bits and taps Message-ID: Lowes had a set of taps and dies on sale (Kobalt) before I started my 3A resto and I knew I would need them for cleaning up after paint, etc. They sat around for a while until needed and then, and only then, I found that the set had 2 1/4-20s and no 1/4-28s. ergo, the sale. Had 'em too long to return. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf ooter) From DLylis at aol.com Mon Oct 27 19:41:31 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 22:41:31 EDT Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A Message-ID: The first day I drove my 3A it ran very well until one moment it started to skip badly, so I pulled over and shut it off. Without even getting out and opening the bonnet I waited a minute or less, fired her up and drove home fine. Sunday I drove about 50 miles and found out I don't get as good mileage as I thought as the same symptom returned, only this time I ran out of gas. Walked to the gas station, got gas, fired her up, and drove home fine. Later on that day I was driving and had the same symptoms as the first time. Ran well, then badly, stalled, pulled over, waited 30 seconds, started and drove away. Ten minutes later it happened again, same thing. My first instinct is that there is something in one of the float bowls that eventually finds its way to obstruct gas, car runs poorly, shut it off, and whatever it is floats away from being a nuisance and then returns. I opened my floats tonight and although I found crud, which I cleaned out, there was nothing that would tell me my diagnosis was correct. Ideas? It certainly is behaving like a fuel problem. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf ooter) From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Oct 27 19:47:22 2008 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 19:47:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A References: Message-ID: Start with the basics, did you clean/replace any and all fuel filters? Incuding the screen in the fuel pump? Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 7:41 PM Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A > The first day I drove my 3A it ran very well until one moment it started > to > skip badly, so I pulled over and shut it off. Without even getting out > and > opening the bonnet I waited a minute or less, fired her up and drove home > fine. Sunday I drove about 50 miles and found out I don't get as good > mileage as > I thought as the same symptom returned, only this time I ran out of gas. > Walked to the gas station, got gas, fired her up, and drove home fine. > Later on that day I was driving and had the same symptoms as the first > time. > Ran well, then badly, stalled, pulled over, waited 30 seconds, started > and > drove away. Ten minutes later it happened again, same thing. My first > instinct is that there is something in one of the float bowls that > eventually > finds its way to obstruct gas, car runs poorly, shut it off, and whatever > it is > floats away from being a nuisance and then returns. > I opened my floats tonight and although I found crud, which I cleaned out, > there was nothing that would tell me my diagnosis was correct. > Ideas? It certainly is behaving like a fuel problem. > > > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 > easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf > ooter) > _______________________________________________ From wbmcleod at gmail.com Mon Oct 27 19:57:58 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 19:57:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4A03AFF3-283E-4F94-9567-74B911A38DAD@gmail.com> Check that your coil is wired with the correct polarity. When it quits, see if the coil is hot.... 99% of fuel problems are electrical (I heard that somewhere). Bill Slightly Classics Tucson, AZ On Oct 27, 2008, at 7:41 PM, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > The first day I drove my 3A it ran very well until one moment it > started to > skip badly, so I pulled over and shut it off. Without even getting > out and > opening the bonnet I waited a minute or less, fired her up and drove > home > fine. Sunday I drove about 50 miles and found out I don't get as > good mileage as > I thought as the same symptom returned, only this time I ran out of > gas. > Walked to the gas station, got gas, fired her up, and drove home > fine. > Later on that day I was driving and had the same symptoms as the > first time. > Ran well, then badly, stalled, pulled over, waited 30 seconds, > started and > drove away. Ten minutes later it happened again, same thing. My > first > instinct is that there is something in one of the float bowls that > eventually > finds its way to obstruct gas, car runs poorly, shut it off, and > whatever it is > floats away from being a nuisance and then returns. > I opened my floats tonight and although I found crud, which I > cleaned out, > there was nothing that would tell me my diagnosis was correct. > Ideas? It certainly is behaving like a fuel problem. > > > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just > 2 easy > steps! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx > ?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf > ooter) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbmcleod at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tom628 at verizon.net Mon Oct 27 20:15:26 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 23:15:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A References: Message-ID: <70F2346EA5DD436F9D8AF90621847357@Toms> Years ago i had a similar problem caused by a paper label that had made its way into my TR4 fuel tank. More recently, my TR6 had similar symptoms from a series of bad condensers (now Crane ign.). Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:41 PM Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A > The first day I drove my 3A it ran very well until one moment it started > to > skip badly, so I pulled over and shut it off. Without even getting out > and > opening the bonnet I waited a minute or less, fired her up and drove home > fine. Sunday I drove about 50 miles and found out I don't get as good > mileage as > I thought as the same symptom returned, only this time I ran out of gas. > Walked to the gas station, got gas, fired her up, and drove home fine. > Later on that day I was driving and had the same symptoms as the first > time. > Ran well, then badly, stalled, pulled over, waited 30 seconds, started > and > drove away. Ten minutes later it happened again, same thing. My first > instinct is that there is something in one of the float bowls that > eventually > finds its way to obstruct gas, car runs poorly, shut it off, and whatever > it is > floats away from being a nuisance and then returns. > I opened my floats tonight and although I found crud, which I cleaned out, > there was nothing that would tell me my diagnosis was correct. > Ideas? It certainly is behaving like a fuel problem. > > > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or From allegrorover at mac.com Mon Oct 27 20:17:34 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 23:17:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42AD5B71-CFD2-41CF-8BEA-B0405B169353@mac.com> David, When I had a similar problem I wound up yaking the fuel line loose on the inlet side of the fuel pump, blew back through the line towards the tank. Car ran fine until the blockage got caught up in the line. I finally had to remove the fuel tank and took it to my local radiator shop and had it cleaned. Problem solved. Of course getting the fuel tank out of the TR3A was not fun.... Good luck Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From auprichard at comcast.net Mon Oct 27 20:34:48 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 23:34:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <94AEE0BACDC747EBAFE9D86CBE59142D@DCH6RFC1> David: what do the plugs look like ? I recently had an intermittent problem which kept fouling plug #3. I was convinced it was electrical but it turned out to be a bad needle valve / seat (I replaced both) which was preferentially affecting one cylinder. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 10:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A The first day I drove my 3A it ran very well until one moment it started to skip badly, so I pulled over and shut it off. Without even getting out and opening the bonnet I waited a minute or less, fired her up and drove home fine. Sunday I drove about 50 miles and found out I don't get as good mileage as I thought as the same symptom returned, only this time I ran out of gas. Walked to the gas station, got gas, fired her up, and drove home fine. Later on that day I was driving and had the same symptoms as the first time. Ran well, then badly, stalled, pulled over, waited 30 seconds, started and drove away. Ten minutes later it happened again, same thing. My first instinct is that there is something in one of the float bowls that eventually finds its way to obstruct gas, car runs poorly, shut it off, and whatever it is floats away from being a nuisance and then returns. I opened my floats tonight and although I found crud, which I cleaned out, there was nothing that would tell me my diagnosis was correct. Ideas? It certainly is behaving like a fuel problem. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=htt p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf ooter) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Mon Oct 27 21:08:04 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 21:08:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] odd problem tr-3 Message-ID: <135426.47369.qm@web59607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> just a long shot but was the weather very hot? If so maybe vapor lock? gary n. From dkspence at telus.net Mon Oct 27 22:22:56 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 23:22:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] drill bits and taps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7B74D35E-AB43-48E4-ACC2-5B582902B003@telus.net> Ceramic magnet on a stick and sweep under the bench going deeper each time. On 27-Oct-08, at 10:08 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > To: "Triumphs" > Subject: Re: [TR] drill bits and taps > > > I went a slightly different path.. > While at Sears one day I found a set of rethreading taps and dies. > They look > like cut off taps. They are one of the greatest set of tools I own. > I never > cross threaded anything and they are great for just cleaning out > threads > after or before sand blasting or painting. Now if I can just find that > 3/8-UNF one that rolled under the workbench two weeks ago.... > > Dave Connitt > '67 TR4A IRS From dkspence at telus.net Mon Oct 27 22:24:40 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2008 23:24:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Overheating coil? On 27-Oct-08, at 10:08 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Odd problem with 3A From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue Oct 28 05:08:47 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 08:08:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] paging ted liberti or steve newell Message-ID: <67A25A7F.69C07F34.00159EE9@cs.com> n197tr4 at cs.com thanks joe a From tfansher at comcast.net Tue Oct 28 06:10:17 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 09:10:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A References: Message-ID: <6B1160206EDA4B0997854B9222E62148@DCS78M81> Early on - 1972 - crimped fuel line catching crud caused the same signs. I since have put an extra glass see through filter between the tank and the fuel pump and cleaned it as needed. Didn't have to pull the tank that way. Look down in the tank for crud? Let us know. Tom 61 TR3A - 60 TR3A that I should be working on 62 TR4 the next project after the 3 73 Stag - From kentshrack at yahoo.com Tue Oct 28 06:24:06 2008 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 06:24:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A In-Reply-To: <6B1160206EDA4B0997854B9222E62148@DCS78M81> Message-ID: <998791.10955.qm@web57807.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I cut out the bottom, and welded in a new bottom in my tank, and then did the epoxy coating during my rerstoration. I re-used the original lines and the S shaped line plugged anyway. It let enough gas through to keep the front carb full, but starved the rear carb. I think I'm haveing a similar problem now as it runs like it's barely on two. I'll check out my lines , again. Kent Shrack TS78563 "o" From nwolf at u.washington.edu Tue Oct 28 12:36:09 2008 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 12:36:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 console bracket identification Message-ID: Hi everybody Piggott's book implies that there are three or four different styles of the TR4 dashboard "console bracket". I believe he's talking about the cast aluminum brace that bolts to the floor, but it's possible that some comments refer to the pressed steel radio mounting plate (or blanking plate), which may have corresponding change points. Here are the four types of the aluminum bracket, if I'm interpreting correctly: Early shape with vinyl wrap, before CT 1527. Revised shape with black crackle finish, CT 1527 to January 1962. Unspecified revision (possibly vinyl again, maybe US only), Jan to March 1962. Unspecified revision (return to black crackle?), after March 1962. Can anyone shed light on this? 1. What are the changes? 2. Did other parts change at the same time? 3. Are all black crackle-finished brackets the same? Thanks! -Nick Wolf "Early" TR4 (ZS 010966) Winner of Tyee Triumph Club's 2008 Spooky Rallye! Seattle, WA From kimbrelltr4 at yahoo.com Tue Oct 28 13:59:36 2008 From: kimbrelltr4 at yahoo.com (Jeff W. Kimbrell) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 13:59:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Coil Polarity Message-ID: <766507.30986.qm@web45001.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I have looked at the wiring diagram for my [ positive ground] 1962 Tr4 to determine the correct polarity for the coil wiring. It does not show a terminal number , or positive / negative marking on the diagram at the coil , only the wiring colors . I have not switched the coil connections to know if it will run if wired the other way. Please advise ! J.W. Kimbrell From triumph66 at gmail.com Tue Oct 28 14:01:58 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 17:01:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? Message-ID: What are the hourly ranges body shops charge for Triumph, Jag, MG restoration work? Thanks, Ted -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Oct 28 14:37:40 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 17:37:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: In Massachusetts (number 50 on the list of insurance reimbursement for body shops) the rate for collision work is $35.00 an hour, and so shops generally ask more for restoration work. My guy charged me $40/hour and I was delighted with the work. The owner even let me come in every Saturday and "learn the trade". It's still sticker shock when one realizes the number of hours required for a full restoration, but in my opinion a good body shop is hard to find. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ted Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 5:02 PM To: TR list Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? What are the hourly ranges body shops charge for Triumph, Jag, MG restoration work? Thanks, Ted -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 28 14:52:08 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 17:52:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <81873C81186A4BFAB894DD4BCD936E43@BOBSNEWPC> My guess is it totally depends on what part of the country you are in and the reputation of the restoration shop. Here in CT, you local mechanic is getting $65-85/hr and more.....and he's not restoring anything! A Kurt Tanner AH restoration will set you back a lot more than Bob's AH restoration ;-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ted Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 5:02 PM To: TR list Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? What are the hourly ranges body shops charge for Triumph, Jag, MG restoration work? Thanks, Ted -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From pryner at verizon.net Tue Oct 28 15:07:21 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 18:07:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Glenn's MG down here in St Petersburg, FL has three rates. $55 for prep, $60 for restoration and $70 for mechanical work. He is one of the lowest I've seen for the LBC knowledge he has and the quality you get. Pete From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Oct 28 15:53:24 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 18:53:24 EDT Subject: [TR] Coil Polarity Message-ID: In a message dated 10/28/2008 5:00:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, kimbrelltr4 at yahoo.com writes: I have looked at the wiring diagram for my [ positive ground] 1962 Tr4 to determine the correct polarity for the coil wiring. It does not show a terminal number , or positive / negative marking on the diagram at the coil , only the wiring colors . I have not switched the coil connections to know if it will run if wired the other way. Please advise ! ==AM== Do you want to keep the car set up for positive ground? If so, then that wiring diagram likely shows coil terminals as CB (contact breaker, i.e., the points in the distributor), and that would be the + side and so marked on a more modern coil) and SW (switch, or - on a more modern coil). Does that help? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Play online games for FREE at Games.com! All of your favorites, no registration required and great graphics b check it out! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211202682x1200689022/aol?redir= http://www.games.com?ncid=emlcntusgame00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 28 19:15:37 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 18:15:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] Coil Polarity In-Reply-To: <766507.30986.qm@web45001.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20081029011537.NYOO479.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I have looked at the wiring diagram for my [ positive ground] > 1962 Tr4 to determine the correct polarity for the coil > wiring. It does not show a terminal number , or positive / > negative marking on the diagram at the coil , only the wiring > colors . I have not switched the coil connections to know if > it will run if wired the other way. Please advise ! It will run, most likely just fine, with the coil wired the other way. There is a small difference in how easily the generated spark can light the fuel/air mixture, but normally there is plenty of margin so it will run either way. You might notice that it's a little harder to start with the coil polarity backwards, but I could never tell the difference. And as Andy notes, the original coils were marked "CB" at the positive terminal, and "SW" at the negative terminal. If your car retains the original positive ground, then "CB" gets the wire from the distributor, and "SW" gets the white wire from the harness. Replacement coils are usually marked "+" and "-", which for a positive ground car would be the distributor and harness wire respectively. If the car has been converted to negative ground, then swap the two connections to the coil. Randall From triumph66 at gmail.com Tue Oct 28 19:41:24 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 22:41:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks gentlemen!! Even after accounting for regional price levels, all the above info is excellent. I like the tiered rates for different services, much appreciated!! Any other rate info from across the country is still welcome, thanks. Maybe, I can start an LBC CPI index:)) Ted On Tue, Oct 28, 2008 at 6:07 PM, Peter Ryner wrote: > Glenn's MG down here in St Petersburg, FL has three rates. $55 for prep, > $60 for restoration and $70 for mechanical work. He is one of the lowest > I've seen for the LBC knowledge he has and the quality you get. > Pete > > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From DLylis at aol.com Tue Oct 28 19:47:20 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 22:47:20 EDT Subject: [TR] Odd problem with 3A Message-ID: Thanks to all!! This is a new renovation (not restoration) and I had the tank out and dropped a pen light and mirror in the tank and checked it all out. It looked clean and so I flushed it with gas with the bungs out of the bottom and put it back in. I have a clear fuel filter and, yes, there is crud in it. I have eliminated the hot coil as I do not have to shut off the car for very long at all in order for it to recover. (maybe 15 seconds sometimes) Let me relate a story. I also have a TR6 and once a few years ago I had the exact same problem. Turns out a PO had sealed the cover on the fuel pump with gasket sealer. A little ooze made it to the front carb and floated around in there until it got right in the right palce and, misfire. I shut off the car and the little crud would float away from the float valve and all was well again until it found its way back to the problem area. I was sure this was a repeat of the same thing, however I did not find anything but fine crud in the float bowls. One thing of interest that I did not post before. As a neophyte I did what I probably should not have done and rebuilt the motor first. Once the chassis was complete I mounted the motor and set up a temporary wiring harness, temp gauge and oil pressure gauge and started the motor. I ran it for 30 minutes or so at about 2000 RPM and did that a couple of times. The point being is that I had gas in the carbs for the many months while I did the body (maybe a year). There was like an orange residue in the bottom of the bowls (along with the fine crud) so I sprayed carb cleaner in to disolve it. I raised the level of the carb cleaner to the fuel inlet and darker orange crud came out. I cleaned it all up, syphoned out all the gas from the bowls, wiped them down, reassembled and started the car. It ran like crap. After a few moments it evened out and idled very well with excellent throttle response. I will drive it in the next day or so. Is this residue from Ethanol in the gas? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf ooter) From flashtr3 at cox.net Tue Oct 28 21:05:30 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 21:05:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn indictors Message-ID: <31A549ABAD9A46B3805CD9F60E68C522@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I have a problem, that I have never encountered before in my 40 years owning TRs. The turn indicator light on the dash that turns yellow when in operation, for some reason only lights one blink for either side, and quickly stops blinking. However, the turn signal lights front and rear for either side continues to operate normally. What gives? I have changed out the flasher unit on the firewall with a new one and it still does the same thing. The wire harness is brand new as this is a fresh resto on this car. Any insight would be appreciated...as I know this is small problem, but I can't seem to figure it out, which has me perplex. Ibsen Dow TS35658LO-'59 TR3A From mathews at uga.edu Tue Oct 28 21:20:28 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:20:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn indictors In-Reply-To: <31A549ABAD9A46B3805CD9F60E68C522@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <31A549ABAD9A46B3805CD9F60E68C522@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <20081029042034.ABA7D1878B4@autox.team.net> Have you changed the bulb on the dash? Doug At 12:05 AM 10/29/2008, Ibsen Dow wrote: >Any insight would be appreciated...as I know this is small problem, but I >can't seem to figure it out, which has me perplex. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Oct 28 22:28:58 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 21:28:58 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn indictors In-Reply-To: <31A549ABAD9A46B3805CD9F60E68C522@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <20081029042858.JVBJ3398.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Any insight would be appreciated...as I know this is small > problem, but I can't seem to figure it out, which has me perplex. Sounds to me like a flasher problem. Some of the flashers being sold as suitable for our cars don't work right. To double-check, temporarily connect an unpowered test lamp (or voltmeter) between the center terminal of the flasher and ground. Turn on the key, turn on the turn signals, the test lamp should act exactly the same as the dash lamp. If so, the flasher is the problem. One solution is to buy a Tridon EL13 'electronic' flasher, which does work correctly (although it looks rather out of place under the hood). What I eventually did on my TR3A to solve the issue was to modify the original wiring, by disconnecting the ground from the indicator lamp, and moving it to a source of switched voltage (the green wire on the fuel gauge). Hopefully, TRF and Moss are selling flashers that do work right without the modified wiring, but the ones sold by Kragen and Pep Boys would not work without the mod. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Wed Oct 29 04:40:27 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 07:40:27 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A ammeter Message-ID: My ammeter is not working. After installing the interior I could not bring myself to crawl back under the dash for a few more days. I tagged all wires as it came out and am reasonably certain that all is connected as it should be. Is there a ground I have missed? The gauge is grounded to the dash, is it not? BTW my fuel gauge is not working either. See earlier post about running out of gas. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf ooter) From coefront at shaw.ca Wed Oct 29 05:29:26 2008 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 06:29:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] Differential Message-ID: On my TR8 I've just had installed a Quaife Posi that I purchased last month whilst back visiting relatives in the U.K. Which leaves the still absolutely perfect original 3.08 diff for anyone interested in its acquirement. To date the car has travelled only 59,000 kilometres. And I'm using expensive gear oil; but can anyone advise if an additive is still required? In addition, can anyone comment on why there's a small hole at the rear lower base of the diff casing that the gasket covers? Thanks. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca From coefront at shaw.ca Wed Oct 29 05:44:28 2008 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 06:44:28 -0600 Subject: [TR] Gear box & electric fan Message-ID: My TR8 has an off the shelf directly wired electric fan; but I would really like to add an, in radiator hose capillary fan switch. To the dash I've installed a precautionary overriding switch; but I still want the capillary to serve engine shut off time. Any ideas where to purchase a reliable one? In addition, as opposed to an expensive gear oil, can anyone comment on whether or not ATF is preferential gear box use? Mine, thank you very much, shifts just perfectly with the expensive gear oil from even the dreaded cold start up. Thanks. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Oct 29 06:10:46 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 08:10:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Fan belt tension - Have reviewed previous postings Message-ID: <31729441.4536941225285846471.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> To the list, I am preparing to swap my alternator out with a new rebuilt Lucas 15 ACR unit on my 1972 Triumph TR6. I had to replace the water pump recently, which required me to adjust the fan belt tension on reinstall. I do notice that the pulleys do not seem to line up as well as they did before, and I see that this has been discussed on the list. Both the water pump and rebuilt alternator were purchased from TRF. The book states 3/4-1", which is where I am now. My red light is definitely less happy than it was before the water pump, had it tested and it is putting out 14 volts and 30 amps. I am replacing this unit because it does appear it has some issues, and I will have it rebuilt. I also installed an Optima battery during this time. My question, Star Auto Electric in California says to adjust the fan belt as follows: You should tighten the fan belt just enough so the belt does not slip on the generator pulley. To test for possible pulley slippage with the vehicle's motor stopped, take your hand and with one of your fingers apply rotating pressure on one of the generator's fan blades and try to see if you are able to move the fan and pulley. If this action is possible and you can turn the fan and pulley without the belt moving you need to retighten the belt a little more. I know this sounds tedious and time consuming, however if you want to save the rear bushing from premature failure I cannot stress enough the importance of correct fan belt tension for these types of generators. Currently with 3/4-1" play, I can indeed move the fan with one finger. I am toying with the idea of tightening the belt before I swap to see what impact it has on the red light. It used to just be dim at idle (normal), but now sometimes it is glowing red. Anyone have an opinion on the proper tension without be so tight that damage to the water pump and my new alternator occur? Thanks, Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Wed Oct 29 06:55:48 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 06:55:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3550A62B01A8483AA4D5342FE025BCFA@Induninwlaptop> Ted, I've restored dozens of classics over the years, some for myself and others for clients, and have usually based my pricing on a flat fee. Since I have a "real" job too, meaning classic restorations isn't my only source of income, I have been able to be very fair. My pricing methodology is this - - What does the owner want from the car? Will it be a concourse show car never driven, or used as often as possible? - Is the restoration a complete body off frame down to bare metal, or a cosmetic fix up? - How rare or valuable is the car? I don't price a resto for an MGB the same as a Ferrari simply from the level of difficulty and margin for error. Lastly, if you boil down the "rate" I charge per hour, it will average out to about $55. If I'm just doing a pre-purchase inspection on a car, I charge a flat daily fee plus travel expenses. Hope this help! Brian '67 TR4A (currently) ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2008 17:01:58 -0400 From: Ted Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? To: "TR list" Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" What are the hourly ranges body shops charge for Triumph, Jag, MG restoration work? Thanks, Ted -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car ------------------------------ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 29 08:23:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 07:23:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Fan belt tension - Have reviewed previous postings In-Reply-To: <31729441.4536941225285846471.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <20081029142315.ZTYT24054.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I do notice > that the pulleys do not seem to line up as well as they did > before, and I see that this has been discussed on the list. Guess I missed that one. The pulleys need to line up, or you will have problems with rapid belt wear. > The book states 3/4-1", which is where I am now. But what the book leaves out is how much force you apply when checking the tension. What I use is more like 1/2" - 3/4" deflection, when applying as much force as I reasonably can with a single thumb. > had it tested and it is putting out 14 volts and 30 > amps. So in other words, it was working fine ? > Currently with 3/4-1" play, I can indeed move the fan with > one finger. While 1" of play (with moderate finger pressure) does seem awfully loose, I don't believe you should be able to turn the alternator fan that easily. I would get a new belt (the old one may be glazed or hard), and carefully clean the pulley to ensure it has not had a lubricant spilled on it. If the surfaces where the belt rides look shiny (like a mirror), they could even be roughened up a bit with fine emery cloth. Also inspect carefully to ensure that the belt is not touching the bottom of any of the pulley grooves. There were two different widths of belt used on various years of the TR6, and it's easy to get components mixed up. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 29 08:29:40 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 07:29:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] Gear box & electric fan In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081029142939.ZZGI24054.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I would really like to add an, in radiator hose capillary fan > switch. To the dash I've installed a precautionary overriding > switch; but I still want the capillary to serve engine shut > off time. Any ideas where to purchase a reliable one? Does it have to go in the hose? I got one of these http://www.derale.com/adjust-fan-controller.html at my local auto parts store with the sensor that pushed into the radiator fins, and it seemed to work just fine. > In addition, as opposed to an expensive gear oil, can anyone > comment on whether or not ATF is preferential gear box use? Probably, but I can't. My feeling is that, if you are happy with what you've been using, it's silly trying to save a few dollars on something cheaper. The cheap stuff will cost more in the long run even if they give it to you for free and it only shortens the life of the box by 10%. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 29 08:51:41 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 07:51:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A ammeter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081029145139.RLC24054.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > My ammeter is not working. After installing the interior I > could not bring myself to crawl back under the dash for a few > more days. I tagged all wires as it came out and am > reasonably certain that all is connected as it should be. > Is there a ground I have missed? The gauge is grounded to > the dash, is it not? No. The ammeter does not need a ground. I've also never seen one fail, so I would suggest you have a mistake somewhere else that is routing current around the ammeter. A test here would be to disconnect the ammeter and see if the headlights (or anything but the horns) still work. If so, there is a wiring error. > BTW my fuel gauge is not working either. See earlier post > about running out of gas. The fuel gauge (on a TR3) does require a ground. Have you tried making sure it's adequately grounded? Randall From thenicholls at verizon.net Wed Oct 29 08:21:33 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 10:21:33 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Fan belt tension - Have reviewed previous postings Message-ID: <33095598.5163841225293693588.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Randall, As you always do, good points. Have a new adjustment bracket for the alternator that is twice as think as the current one. Will be installing it. I am not applying that much force, so I am too loose. Will correct that. The alternator is producing the correct output, but several British car shops have stated that it must have a dead spot or some internal issue because it does on occasion, not read correctly. The fan belt was replaced last year, and it is the correct one. No problem there, however, I will take a look at how it sits in the pully and check for a glazed belt. Thanks for your input............Craig On Wed, Oct 29, 2008 at 11:23 AM, Randall wrote: >> I do notice > that the pulleys do not seem to line up as well as they did before, > and I see that this has been discussed on the list.B Guess I missed that one.B The pulleys need to line up, or you will have problems with rapid belt wear. > The book states 3/4-1", which is where I am now. But what the book leaves out is how much force you apply when checking the tension.B What I use is more like 1/2" - 3/4" deflection, when applying as much force as I reasonably can with a single thumb. > had it tested and it is putting out 14 volts and 30 amps. So in other words, it was working fine ? > Currently with 3/4-1" play, I can indeed move the fan with one finger. While 1" of play (with moderate finger pressure) does seem awfully loose, I don't believe you should be able to turn the alternator fan that easily.B I would get a new belt (the old one may be glazed or hard), and carefully clean the pulley to ensure it has not had a lubricant spilled on it.B If the surfaces where the belt rides look shiny (like a mirror), they could even be roughened up a bit with fine emery cloth. Also inspect carefully to ensure that the belt is not touching the bottom of any of the pulley grooves.B There were two different widths of belt used on various years of the TR6, and it's easy to get components mixed up. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org B Triumphs at autox.team.net B http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs B You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net B http://www.team.net/archive B From tartanredmgb at gmail.com Wed Oct 29 10:33:44 2008 From: tartanredmgb at gmail.com (tartanredmgb at gmail.com) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 10:33:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 questions Message-ID: Hello list, I'm looking at possible purchase of a '63 TR4 with a surrey top. How much of a premium does that top add to the value of the car? On the negative side, the overdrive doesn't work. If it needs rebuilding, what kind of money am I looking at? Thanks! Don Scott don at napanet.net 1962 MGA 1991 Miata BRG From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Oct 29 10:43:33 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 10:43:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <709EB607-3156-43A7-A46E-E08A9AF82E46@gmail.com> The surrey top, if factory (i.e. not fiberglass) and complete adds a minimum of $2k and probably more. As far as the OD goes, be optimistic! There are a whole list of minor glitches, ranging from a broken wire to a bad adjustment, which will cause an OD not to work. Tell the seller to lower the price $500 because on the non-op OD, and trust to good old british engineering to come out ahead! Regards, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson, AZ Parting out a straight 100% rust-free 1963 TR-4 On Oct 29, 2008, at 10:33 AM, tartanredmgb at gmail.com wrote: > Hello list, > > I'm looking at possible purchase of a '63 TR4 with a surrey top. > How much > of a premium does that top add to the value of the car? > On the negative side, the overdrive doesn't work. If it needs > rebuilding, > what kind of money am I looking at? > Thanks! > > Don Scott > don at napanet.net > 1962 MGA > 1991 Miata BRG From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 29 11:13:45 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 11:13:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A ammeter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > After installing the interior I could not > bring > myself to crawl back under the dash for a few more days. BTW, David, it's not that difficult to feel behind the dash and undo the nut that holds the ammeter in place. Disconnect the battery first, then undo and remove the nut, lockwasher and bracket. Then you can pull the ammeter forward with the wires still attached. If you are brave, you can even leave it hanging on the wires (making absolutely certain the terminals cannot touch the metal of the panel), while you reconnect the battery and make whatever tests you need. Some tape on the edge of the hole might be a good idea. Much easier IMO than trying to lay underneath and see what's going on, especially with the heater installed. Re-installation is a bit trickier, but still possible. But don't forget to disconnect the battery ground strap while you do it. Randall From mrv8q at aim.com Wed Oct 29 11:39:35 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 14:39:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn indictors In-Reply-To: <31A549ABAD9A46B3805CD9F60E68C522@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <31A549ABAD9A46B3805CD9F60E68C522@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <8CB080CD363FEFA-814-CD3@webmail-de14.sysops.aol.com> I just rectified this exact problem.... On the side with the quick blink, the turn signal bulb was not actually flashing. Replacing the offending bulb cured both problems. Best, Kevin Browne From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 29 12:11:42 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 15:11:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] a bulb not doing anything, not TR Message-ID: <20081029151142.BQE68105@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Re a 2003 Dodge Caravan, not a Triumph. Our 2003 Caravan has a non-functional right front parking light. It is not the bulb; I checked it, even swapped it with the left front bulb. It is not a fuse; they all appear good, and the right rear is working. (The fuse markings are ambiguous but appear to say that both RF and RR bulbs are wired together.) It does not appear to be a relay; I re-seated them all anyway. The turn signals work just fine. I put a voltmeter on the wires, saw no voltage, but may have been thwarted by the difficulty of getting a good ground through paint or surface corrosion everywhere. I disconnected, checked the voltage on, and re-seated the plug going to the bulb holder; still saw nothing. The most likely cause would appear to be a corroded connector somewhere out of sight in the line going to that bulb only. Can any of you suggest which part of the dashboard I should disassemble to find it? The car was inspected in August, so that hurdle won't come around again for a while. But on the other hand, it is still a non-functional bulb that I would like to fix and may be required legally to fix, inspection or no. In the meantime, the weather is getting cold. Tanks, Jim Muller '80 Spitfire '70 GT6+ '03 Caravan From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Oct 29 12:20:08 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 15:20:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A turn indictors Message-ID: In a message dated 10/29/2008 11:41:33 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, mrv8q at aim.com writes: I just rectified this exact problem.... On the side with the quick blink, the turn signal bulb was not actually flashing. Replacing the offending bulb cured both problems. Best, Kevin Browne _______________________________________________ I fooled around with mine for along time-changing bulbs, flashers (including electronic flashers) etc. Finally, I bought a complete set of bulbs and a flasher from TRF. I started at the RR corner and cleaned ever socket, and installed new bulbs all the way around. After I installed the new Lucas flasher, they worked just fine, and that was 10 years ago. Mike Moore **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Oct 29 12:21:57 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 15:21:57 EDT Subject: [TR] a bulb not doing anything, not TR Message-ID: In a message dated 10/29/2008 12:12:20 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: Re a 2003 Dodge Caravan, not a Triumph. Our 2003 Caravan has a non-functional right front parking light. It is not the bulb; I checked it, even swapped it with the left front bulb. It is not a fuse; they all appear good, and the right rear is working. (The fuse markings are ambiguous but appear to say that both RF and RR bulbs are wired together.) It does not appear to be a relay; I re-seated them all anyway. The turn signals work just fine. I put a voltmeter on the wires, saw no voltage, but may have been thwarted by the difficulty of getting a good ground through paint or surface corrosion everywhere. I disconnected, checked the voltage on, and re-seated the plug going to the bulb holder; still saw nothing. The most likely cause would appear to be a corroded connector somewhere out of sight in the line going to that bulb only. Can any of you suggest which part of the dashboard I should disassemble to find it? The car was inspected in August, so that hurdle won't come around again for a while. But on the other hand, it is still a non-functional bulb that I would like to fix and may be required legally to fix, inspection or no. In the meantime, the weather is getting cold. Tanks, Jim Muller '80 Spitfire '70 GT6+ '03 Caravan _______________________________________________ A way way long shot: If there is a multi-pin bulkead connector, disconnecte it and clean it. Reassemble with silicon grease. My 62 Chrysler had that problem, Mike Moore Engineering Manager CL Moore & Associates, Inc. 17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill, California 95037 408-782-1272 fax 408-782-1372 **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Oct 29 13:17:13 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 16:17:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] a bulb not doing anything, not TR Message-ID: <20081029161713.BQE85071@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> MMoore and wbeech both offered suggestions, e.g.: > Unless you have a reason to suspect that the problem is > behind the dash, I would start from the... Thank you both. Note I said I already I checked the socket at the bulb and the connector from the wiring harness to the bulb holder. From there the wiring merges with other wires to become a mighty river of wiring harness, then disappears underneath somewhere. Tucked away on the left over near the battery and fusebox is a seemingly sealed box, maybe 12"x10"x2", with heat-removing fins. Connected to one side are two large multi-pin connectors, each maybe 5"x2", each with maybe 50 to 100 pins and lots of wires. (I didn't count'em.) I was slightly afraid that removing them might disable a theft-prevention radio or set off the alarm or something. Nevertheless I swallowed bravely and detached and re-seated both connectors. That made no difference. The bulb was still out. As was the jury. So the conjection was the somewhere in the wiring harness, either under the hood and exposed to the weather or inside the car and exposed to rain dripping around a leaking windshield, there exists a corroded connector. Or a broken wire. obvioulsy I can run a separate wire, but I'd rather find the real problem. The operative question is where it might be! Tanks again, Jim Muller From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Wed Oct 29 14:19:01 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:19:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? In-Reply-To: <3550A62B01A8483AA4D5342FE025BCFA@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <9944204C899F4F54983A84E60591B5B3@chuck> Ted wrote: "What are the hourly ranges body shops charge for Triumph, Jag, MG restoration work?" Macy's Garage in New Carlisle, OH has a $48.00 per hour shop rate whether it's for maintenance or restoration of Triumphs (TR2 through TR6). http://www.macysgarage.com Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Oct 29 14:54:25 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 17:54:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A turn indictors In-Reply-To: <31A549ABAD9A46B3805CD9F60E68C522@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <31A549ABAD9A46B3805CD9F60E68C522@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <200810291754.26207.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 29 October 2008 00:05:30 Ibsen Dow wrote: > I have a problem, that I have never encountered before in my 40 years > owning TRs. > > The turn indicator light on the dash that turns yellow when in operation, > for some reason only lights one blink for either side, and quickly stops > blinking. However, the turn signal lights front and rear for either side > continues to operate normally. What gives? I have changed out the flasher > unit on the firewall with a new one and it still does the same thing. The > wire harness is brand new as this is a fresh resto on this car. > > Any insight would be appreciated...as I know this is small problem, but I > can't seem to figure it out, which has me perplex. > > Ibsen Dow > TS35658LO-'59 TR3A Ibsen, The only time I have seen this problem is when one of the bulbs is broke or a bad connection to one of the bulbs. My flasher is the original one that came with the project. Not sure what brand but it is at least 30 years old. Still flashing as of last Sunday. Could this be a problem linked to your email address? Bob From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Oct 29 15:00:30 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 18:00:30 EDT Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? Message-ID: In a message dated 10/29/2008 5:19:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net writes: Ted wrote: "What are the hourly ranges body shops charge for Triumph, Jag, MG restoration work?" I have a shop that has frame off totally restored my 70 GT6+ and TR3B @ $35.00 per hour. I am not going to tell anyone who they are for I am lining up the "Fleet" for work in order of urgent need. They are not known to be quick for restorations but maintenance at the same rate is very prompt. Currently the TR250 is in and a total frame off is under consideration. To be honest I believe the last bill had an increase to $40.00. I am not bitching for I know what is takes to work on old cars from personal experience. I am just too dang Fat and Old to jack them up and get dirty anymore. However, I believe they like my cars for they are super clean for the most part and not a bunch of frozen junk. Father/Son team that are part time restorers and heavily involved in the local VTR chapter. I have said enough, you will know when you have a good one and you will ride it as long as you can. Cheers, Darrell **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Oct 29 15:17:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 15:17:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] a bulb not doing anything, not TR In-Reply-To: <20081029151142.BQE68105@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20081029151142.BQE68105@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: > Can any of you suggest which part of the dashboard I should disassemble to > find it? The car was inspected in August, so that hurdle won't come > around again for a while. But on the other hand, it is still a non- > functional bulb that I would like to fix and may be required legally to > fix, inspection or no. Jim, Given how much I hate working under modern dashboards (and my doubt that the problem is located there); my suggestion would be to find the matching wire to the LH parking light, tap into that, and run a new wire over to the RH fixture. Probably before doing that, you should temporarily try supplying 12v directly to the wire to the RH fixture and be sure that makes it work, since it could also be a problem with the fixture itself. Perhaps you've already done that, but it sounds like you just looked at it, and it's hard to see those electrons especially when they aren't there. But I would not expect the two lamps to have separate wires all the way back to the headlight switch, since the two bulbs operate from the same circuit and wire costs money. So the joint between the wires is probably hidden somewhere inside the harness. My other suggestion would be to buy a factory manual, which should have a wiring diagram and harness routing information. 2003 is probably too old to buy one from a dealer, but I've had good luck finding such things on eBay with a little hunting. RSS feeds and Google Reader make a convenient way to repeatedly search (for me anyway). Randall From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Oct 29 15:30:58 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 15:30:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] inner sills Message-ID: <107002.12222.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I received a new sill today from TRF and it looks nice. Its painted however I'm wondering what people do with new sills. I'd like to POR-15 it or other wise rust proof it better. Is that what others do? just cover it with a few final coats of paint or strip and POR-15? thanks gary n From mlang99 at comcast.net Wed Oct 29 19:01:03 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 19:01:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] inner sills In-Reply-To: <107002.12222.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <107002.12222.qm@web59606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4909155F.1050105@comcast.net> Mine were coated with a thin layer of black glossy paint when I got them from TRF. I sanded the paint off and sprayed the area between the inner and outer sills with a few good coats of cold galvanizing compound. I don't know if this was the best thing to do, but at the time it seemed far better than doing nothing. I first used weld-through primer in the areas that I was going to be welding then sprayed the rest with the cold galvanizing compound. I chose not to use POR-15 as I have heard that it does not adhere well to fresh clean steel. I have used it on rough pitted areas and have been very impressed so far. Mike Gary Nafziger wrote: > I received a new sill today from TRF and it looks nice. Its painted however > I'm wondering what people do with new sills. I'd like to POR-15 it or other > wise rust proof it better. Is that what others do? just cover it with a few > final coats of paint or strip and POR-15? > > thanks > > gary n From culturevirus at yahoo.com Wed Oct 29 19:22:41 2008 From: culturevirus at yahoo.com (culturevirus) Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 19:22:41 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 console bracket identification In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <111354.38961.qm@web54207.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I own CT1272L and have (what I believe to be) the original console bracket. It has the vinyl covering, unfortunately a PO decided to cut an inch or so off the top. I bought a replacement for it, a later one with black crinkle finish. >From what I can see the shape is the same, but perhaps the difference is in the area missing from the original. I will dig out the old one and check them side by side again if you'd like. I don't have the radio bracket that bridges the console and the dash at this time. Jerry McDonald --- On Tue, 10/28/08, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: From: nwolf at u.washington.edu Subject: [TR] TR4 console bracket identification To: triumphs at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, October 28, 2008, 12:36 PM Hi everybody Piggott's book implies that there are three or four different styles of the TR4 dashboard "console bracket". I believe he's talking about the cast aluminum brace that bolts to the floor, but it's possible that some comments refer to the pressed steel radio mounting plate (or blanking plate), which may have corresponding change points. Here are the four types of the aluminum bracket, if I'm interpreting correctly: Early shape with vinyl wrap, before CT 1527. Revised shape with black crackle finish, CT 1527 to January 1962. Unspecified revision (possibly vinyl again, maybe US only), Jan to March 1962. Unspecified revision (return to black crackle?), after March 1962. Can anyone shed light on this? 1. What are the changes? 2. Did other parts change at the same time? 3. Are all black crackle-finished brackets the same? Thanks! -Nick Wolf "Early" TR4 (ZS 010966) Winner of Tyee Triumph Club's 2008 Spooky Rallye! Seattle, WA This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as culturevirus at yahoo.com http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Oct 30 13:02:11 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 16:02:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] E3 Spark Plugs Message-ID: Has anybody ever tried these E3 (http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/diamondfire.htm) spark plugs? Is it all marketing hype or is it a valid design and theory (http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/igniton-therory.htm)? They even show combustion analysis (http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/combustion-analysis.htm) They come pre-gapped for automotive use. Just curious. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From DLylis at aol.com Thu Oct 30 14:58:06 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 17:58:06 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. Message-ID: THIS IS NOT TRUE. I just did a complete search of the New York Times, going back to 1851. The quotes "no place on the roads for any car over 5 years old" and ""eliminating older cars from the road will reduce emissions, as they are all major causes of pollution" have NEVER appeared in the New York Times, spoken by anyone. The NYT has NEVER printed those words. Kevin McNelis Thank you. At the risk of offending someone, just think about it. Some cars aren't even paid off in 5 years. Plus, emissions technology has changed very little in 5 years. We would be dumping cars with 60,000 miles on them? That was 2003!! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Oct 30 15:50:01 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 22:50:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] hourly restoration rates - ranges? In-Reply-To: <145743091.347881225406662798.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1653303079.348951225407001861.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> While not specific to a total restoration, I confess I have done my share of putting up, mudding, sanding, priming and painting drywall.B So when it came to the body of my '59 TR3A restoration, which IB sawed in half to take off the frame (why not, the floors and rocker panels were rusted almost through anyway), I took it to a guy who wasn't afraid of the job and who charged a job rate.B Took a year to get back, but no problem because a) I had plenty else to do on the car, b) I didn't have money to do everything at once anyway, and c) he charged me $2,000 to bring the body back from the dead, not counting the cost of the rear valence(?).B Then again, Bill is a neanderthal throwback, a guy still fresh from the fifties who oils his thinning hair back like Elvis, chainsmokes Marloboros, refuses to wear aspirators while sanding, and builds custom hotrods.B The only additional cost was listening to entertaining energetic rants about politics andB new age body shop workers who know how to replace panels but not repair them.B ...Oh, he had some interesting conversations, animated, of course, about politics. Being with him made me love the car even more. Terry Smith, '59 TR3AB (gotta get that heater working this month!) New Hampshire From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Thu Oct 30 16:34:43 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 19:34:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. In-Reply-To: <000b01c93ad2$e62b9990$b282ccb0$@com> References: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <000b01c93ad2$e62b9990$b282ccb0$@com> Message-ID: <5EBD76E9-3735-42B1-830A-BFA4B20F74BA@mindspring.com> Joe's right, now I'm having trouble what fluif to use, and what size tire to put on, and lastly whether to go with DOT4 or DOT5, or maybe DOT6 or 7. Speaking of fluif, I think I'll require a Newcastle. Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Oct 30, 2008, at 5:03 PM, Joseph Grant wrote: > Come on guys... Must we endure yet another 'political' thread? > > This is not the place for this type of stuff. I thought we had > settled this > type of subject on the previous 'politically charged' thread. From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Oct 30 17:17:44 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 20:17:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. In-Reply-To: <5EBD76E9-3735-42B1-830A-BFA4B20F74BA@mindspring.com> References: <000b01c93ad2$e62b9990$b282ccb0$@com> Message-ID: <490A1668.16831.24FAADD9@localhost> On 30 Oct 2008 at 19:34, Ashford Little wrote: > Speaking of fluif, I think I'll require a Newcastle. An excellent choice for break fluif! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Thu Oct 30 21:55:38 2008 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 21:55:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF8C06C091@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: <000001c93b14$ec568e50$b1191718@computer> Say what you like but the more liberals control government (Federal and State), the more older cars are threatened. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ruffner, James A *HS Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 6:48 PM To: johnehorton at yahoo.com; auto tox; TR6 Cc: Bobby; jasont at sema.org Subject: Re: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. This kind of discussion came up years ago here in VA, and they always make provisions for older cars, antiques, and the concept of "grandfathering in" older cars. They never have to meet the current standards, just the standards as of the time of manufacturing. Obama was just making an observation, not a proposal. In Europe they do have some pretty strict standards that include body rot. The subtle goal is to keep the auto industry on its toes, and active. We were in Switzerland in September for two weeks, and rented a car for about half of the time. We drove all over Switzerland and used about 2/3s a tank of gas. It was about 45 mpg. 1.8L engine, solid as a rock, quick handling. This is the indirect result of the rust standards. Keeps the rustbuckets off the road, and newer cars there. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of johnehorton at yahoo.com [johnehorton at yahoo.com] Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 4:28 PM To: auto tox; TR6 Cc: jasont at sema.org; Bobby Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. Hi all. I know off subject is frowned upon. This is really not completely off subject. I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they reported that Obama testifying in the environmental committee, stated the due to pollution problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any car over 5 years old". He further stated "eliminating older cars from the road will reduce emissions, as they are all major causes of pollution". This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied to "older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts industry will be out of business. Please pass this around John H. 1976 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Oct 31 09:03:03 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 12:03:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] how big a tool? Message-ID: <20081031120303.BQJ46155@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> One item today in the regular email flyer I receive from Eastwood: > 29935 Magnetic Hole > Plug Welding Tool Wow! I wonder if it works on a Ford Galaxie? Is it compatible with a QNX Neutrino? -- Jim Muller, thinking my mental image of this tool is a bit nebulous From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri Oct 31 09:21:13 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 09:21:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] body to sill fit Message-ID: <176707.77434.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> frame up restore on tr-3 I have my body tub split into two pieces while i work on replacing rusted out places on each clip. just received a new left sill (right one back ordered) mounted it and tentatively fit the front clip. Looks like rear of front clip fits ok to sill but farther forward fit is around 3/8th off. tentatively measuring things it looks like the other side will also be off over an inch. my question is to anyone who has done a body off. does the body fit down on sills? how did your body fit? is there lots of fudging/budging to do? lol thanks! gary n. From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri Oct 31 10:14:14 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 10:14:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fw: TR3A turn indictors Message-ID: <84333A3E4FA94909B216A205A870C547@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I want to thank all of those that responded to my e mail request. The problem turns out to be a defective (new one) flasher. The defective unit works to operate the turn indicators, but the circuit to the bulb on the dash must be weak, because it only flashes once and then goes out. The simple test that Randall suggested earlier on testing the circuit help eliminate the problem. After replacement of another new one, I am back to being somewhat sane again! Thanks all, Ibsen Dow TS35658LO ----- Original Message ----- From: Ibsen Dow To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, October 28, 2008 9:05 PM Subject: TR3A turn indictors I have a problem, that I have never encountered before in my 40 years owning TRs. The turn indicator light on the dash that turns yellow when in operation, for some reason only lights one blink for either side, and quickly stops blinking. However, the turn signal lights front and rear for either side continues to operate normally. What gives? I have changed out the flasher unit on the firewall with a new one and it still does the same thing. The wire harness is brand new as this is a fresh resto on this car. Any insight would be appreciated...as I know this is small problem, but I can't seem to figure it out, which has me perplex. Ibsen Dow TS35658LO-'59 TR3A From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri Oct 31 10:26:42 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 10:26:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] body to sill fit References: <176707.77434.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5D7CF46D10B64F2D92737CE26904A3E5@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Hi Gary, When I did my resto on my TR3A, I had several members of our club come and help me align the body to frame. It was not that bad in aligning body to frame mounts by using guide pins or long drifts helped in the alignment. However I did not have two clips to align and that could be a problem for you if the measurements are not correct. The body does not sit on the door sills (rocker panel). Good luck, Ibsen Dow TS35658LO ----- Original Message ----- From: Gary Nafziger To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 9:21 AM Subject: [TR] body to sill fit frame up restore on tr-3 I have my body tub split into two pieces while i work on replacing rusted out places on each clip. just received a new left sill (right one back ordered) mounted it and tentatively fit the front clip. Looks like rear of front clip fits ok to sill but farther forward fit is around 3/8th off. tentatively measuring things it looks like the other side will also be off over an inch. my question is to anyone who has done a body off. does the body fit down on sills? how did your body fit? is there lots of fudging/budging to do? lol thanks! gary n. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 31 06:55:05 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 13:55:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. Message-ID: <103120081355.15979.490B0E390005E9E900003E6B22155612649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "jim hearn" > Say what you like but the more liberals control government (Federal and > State), the more older cars are threatened. Bill Clinton has a 1966 Mustang, I think, so liberals are not without representation in the old-car world. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Oct 31 11:56:56 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 13:56:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. References: <103120081355.15979.490B0E390005E9E900003E6B22155612649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: Did he trade in the famous El Camino with Astroturf in the back ?? > Bill Clinton has a 1966 Mustang, I think, so liberals are not without > representation in the old-car world. From auprichard at comcast.net Fri Oct 31 12:41:46 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 15:41:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] body to sill fit In-Reply-To: <176707.77434.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <176707.77434.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Gary: My first restoration did not require replacing sills but my current one did. I kept the body on the frame until I had replaced sills and floors but even then nothing fitted! My only advice is to ensure the A and B posts are OK so that the door gaps are good, and after that you have more latitude to "fudge and budge". Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Nafziger Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 12:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] body to sill fit frame up restore on tr-3 I have my body tub split into two pieces while i work on replacing rusted out places on each clip. just received a new left sill (right one back ordered) mounted it and tentatively fit the front clip. Looks like rear of front clip fits ok to sill but farther forward fit is around 3/8th off. tentatively measuring things it looks like the other side will also be off over an inch. my question is to anyone who has done a body off. does the body fit down on sills? how did your body fit? is there lots of fudging/budging to do? lol thanks! gary n. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From nwolf at u.washington.edu Fri Oct 31 12:54:07 2008 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 12:54:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 console bracket identification Message-ID: Hi Jerry Thanks for the comments. I remember hearing that the early brackets were taller than the later ones, but many (possibly mine too) have had the top trimmed off at some point. Perhaps that is the only difference between different styles, other than the vinyl covering? Here's a link to a few photos of the bracket in my car (among other things): http://tinyurl.com/6monqo I'd be interested to hear if anyone has a bracket that looks different (with or without vinyl covering). Cheers! -Nick >Message: 11 >Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 19:22:41 -0700 (PDT) >From: culturevirus >Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 console bracket identification > >I own CT1272L and have (what I believe to be) the original console bracket. It >has the vinyl covering, unfortunately a PO decided to cut an inch or so of >the top. I bought a replacement for it, a later one with black crinkle finish. >From what I can see the shape is the same, but perhaps the difference is in >the area missing from the original. I will dig out the old one and check them >side by side again if you'd like. I don't have the radio bracket that bridges >the console and the dash at this time. > >Jerry McDonald > >>--- On Tue, 10/28/08, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: >>From: nwolf at u.washington.edu >>Subject: [TR] TR4 console bracket identification >> >>To: triumphs at autox.team.net >>Date: Tuesday, October 28, 2008, 12:36 PM >>Hi everybody >> Piggott's book implies that there are three or four different styles of >>the TR4 dashboard "console bracket". I believe he's talking about >>the cast aluminum brace that bolts to the floor, but it's possible that some >>comments refer to the pressed steel radio mounting plate (or blanking plate), >>which may have corresponding change points. >> Here are the four types of the aluminum bracket, if I'm interpreting >>correctly: >> >>Early shape with vinyl wrap, before CT 1527. >>Revised shape with black crackle finish, CT 1527 to January 1962. >>Unspecified revision (possibly vinyl again, maybe US only), Jan to March >>1962. >>Unspecified revision (return to black crackle?), after March 1962. >> >> Can anyone shed light on this? >>1. What are the changes? >>2. Did other parts change at the same time? >>3. Are all black crackle-finished brackets the same? >> >> Thanks! >>-Nick Wolf >>"Early" TR4 (ZS 010966) >>Winner of Tyee Triumph Club's 2008 Spooky Rallye! >>Seattle, WA From pethier at comcast.net Fri Oct 31 14:02:33 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 21:02:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. Message-ID: <103120082102.17701.490B7269000D76930000452522165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Karl Vacek" > > Did he trade in the famous El Camino with Astroturf in the back ?? Not famous to me. I don't recall that story. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From ElangTR4 at aol.com Fri Oct 31 15:46:39 2008 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 18:46:39 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. Message-ID: A tough day at work today. Got home and opened my list digest and read - On 30 Oct 2008 at 19:34, Ashford Little wrote: > Speaking of fluif, I think I'll require a Newcastle. An excellent choice for break fluif! Thanks for the laugh guys. Eric 71 TR6 **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Oct 31 17:17:23 2008 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 20:17:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. References: Message-ID: Yeah, Not a bad soft drink. Won't do much for having had a bad day, but a better choice of sweets than all this Halloween Candy. Cheers ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 6:46 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. >A tough day at work today. Got home and opened my list digest and read - > > On 30 Oct 2008 at 19:34, Ashford Little wrote: >> Speaking of fluif, I think I'll require a Newcastle. > An excellent choice for break fluif! > > Thanks for the laugh guys. > > Eric > 71 TR6 > > **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's > Hot > 5 Travel Deals! > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Fri Oct 31 17:30:36 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 17:30:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] a quote i read.............. Message-ID: <593155.92717.qm@web59604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I'm thinking this is pre election hype. Probably an anti-obama group or individual. This idea has been sent around before and never gets serious traction. Too many hobbiests and too many jobs depend on the hobby to ditch it all. at least my thoughts gary n. From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Oct 31 18:00:03 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 20:00:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. References: <103120082102.17701.490B7269000D76930000452522165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <46552582F26A4EEFAB402BDF6A00FBDD@KARL> Once around the middle of his reign, Slick was making a speech and he alluded to an El Camino he had owned in his younger days. He said something like "It was a real southern type of thing -- it had Astroturf in the back..." and the crowd laughed. That's all. Karl >> >> Did he trade in the famous El Camino with Astroturf in the back ?? > > Not famous to me. I don't recall that story. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata > C-package, 79 Caterham 7 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Oct 31 18:04:08 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 20:04:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us. References: <103120082102.17701.490B7269000D76930000452522165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <46552582F26A4EEFAB402BDF6A00FBDD@KARL> Message-ID: <8ABE2F0B860248D5BDA0B0EA8AB49B04@KARL> Corroboration here: http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9904E5D6173BF93BA25751C0A962958260 > Once around the middle of his reign, Slick was making a speech and he > alluded to an El Camino he had owned in his younger days. He said > something like "It was a real southern type of thing -- it had Astroturf > in the back..." and the crowd laughed. > > That's all. > > Karl > > > >>> >>> Did he trade in the famous El Camino with Astroturf in the back ?? >> >> Not famous to me. I don't recall that story. >> >> -- >> Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA From tdskip at yahoo.com Fri Oct 31 20:35:31 2008 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 20:35:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Supposed Obama quote In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <389968.62607.qm@web55603.mail.re4.yahoo.com> I did a Google search on this as well and there is no reference, none, for this quote from anyone let alone Obama. If you have the reference send it - otherwise please leave this sort of non-sense off the list. We have enough real issues to deal with in this country without inventing devising BS. From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Oct 31 21:17:31 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 00:17:31 EDT Subject: [TR] body to sill fit Message-ID: In a message dated 10/31/2008 10:27:31 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, flashtr3 at cox.net writes: Hi Gary, When I did my resto on my TR3A, I had several members of our club come and help me align the body to frame. It was not that bad in aligning body to frame mounts by using guide pins or long drifts helped in the alignment. However I did not have two clips to align and that could be a problem for you if the measurements are not correct. The body does not sit on the door sills (rocker panel). Good luck, Ibsen Dow TS35658LO Gary, I replaced both of my sills in 1987. They fit was horrible. At the time I was convinced they wre for psot TS60,000 cars. A man who made car bodies has an English wheel etc. He came over and fitted them. It involved literally unfolding, cutting and refolding the sills.I welded them in (thank God for fillers). Unl;ess they've changed a lot, it is a real job for a pro to fit them. Mike Moore TS41723LO **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)