[TR] heater control cable -TR6

[Jim Bauder]

At the recent Triumphest at Lake Tahoe, someone(?) was selling a 1/4 turn ball
style valve that they said was for a Rambler! It seemed to have the same
mechanical properties and appeared to be a good physical replacement for the
stock valve without the physical problems! They wanted $60 or $65 for it, I
passed on it but a friend did buy one. As far as I know he hasn't installed it
in his TR6 yet though!

I did a web search and did not find anything quite like the ones this guy was
selling.

Good luck,

Jim
 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:53 PM
To: 'Randall'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] heater control cable -TR6

Randall,
Can you explain more about the Chrysler style valve? What make model is it off
of and where are you suggesting it be mounted (in the inlet hose to the heater
maybe)? Not being hung up on originality, I'd just ditch the valve and tie the
hose directly to the block and operate the open/close function by the Chrysler
valve of which you speak! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 2:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] heater control cable -TR6

> Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve.
> Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come 
> loose on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be 
> tightened or is this the way these cables usually fail?

Bob, in my very limited experience, what happens first is that the valve itself
gets hard to move.  Then the center wire buckles right at the dashboard lever,
producing the condition you describe.  The temporary cure appears to be to
replace both the valve and the cable.

The permanent cure appears to be to re-engineer the thing using a different
valve.  Although I have not tried it, I suspect you could leave the original
valve in place (open) and a dummy length of operating cable through the
firewall; then rig the interior lever to operate a Chrysler-style valve hidden
inside the passenger compartment.  But it's just a thought since I don't own a
TR6.

Randall
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