From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Nov 1 16:12:01 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 19:12:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] body to sill fit In-Reply-To: <176707.77434.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <176707.77434.qm@web59609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200811011912.01655.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 31 October 2008 12:21:13 Gary Nafziger wrote: > frame up restore on tr-3 > I have my body tub split into two pieces while i work > on replacing rusted out places on each clip. just received a new left sill > (right one back ordered) mounted it and tentatively fit the front clip. > Looks like rear of front clip fits ok to sill but farther forward fit is > around 3/8th off. tentatively measuring things it looks like the other > side will also be off over an inch. > > my question is to anyone who has done a body > off. does the body fit down on sills? how did your body fit? is there > lots of fudging/budging to do? lol > > thanks! > gary n. Gary, When I did my 58 3, the body fit was good up to and including the 4 bolt floor areas. The front required a bit of pulling etc by putting a philips screw driver in the body and frame holes and pulling tugging etc. Body received new rockers as well as numerous patches to the floors. But the 3 was really damaged before I started the restoration. Once I got the holes to line up I used clamps to hold the body to the frame while I inserted bolts etc. When I did the 4, believe it or not every hole lined up perfect. I was able to lower the body on the frame all by myself with a chain fall. If I remember correctly, I was able to get it all bolted up in about 2 hours one Saturday morning. My current project, a 72 TR6, will require rear B-post repair and some minor pin holes in the floors (rust). Sills and rockers are solid. As far as I can see this car has never been hit. I expect the body to line up perfect when it gets re-assembled in about 2 years or so. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Nov 1 19:02:14 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 22:02:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] floorpan outer seams Message-ID: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> As you may have figured out, (especially in regards to doing some of the bodywork) I am not as concerned about doing things 'the right way'. Mostly because of cost and personal satisfaction in 'manually doing the work' (including alot of experimenting around.) One of the 'costs' of doing it this way is the possibility of 'partly-done-things' and 'do-overs'. I am sure many can relate. I installed new floorpans in my TR3 several years ago, and I believe I allowed the floorpan's flange to remain 'innermost' while the attached panels were 'outermost'. I 'tackwelded' & 'seamwelded' the floorpans in place. Of course, the outermost seam was not dealt with at that time, however, it is now time to do something about these overlapping panel edges. I guess I should do something completely around both floorpans. To start off with, for example, the overlap caused by the rear lip (or flange) of the floorpan but located OUTSIDE the car and just ahead of each rear tire. This floorpan vertical flange is overlapped an inch or so with the vertical 'heelboard' portion of the rear shelf. The question is: WHAT SHOULD I DO TO MAKE THIS SEAM WATERTIGHT as I am a bad welder and this overlap is somewhat hard to get to even with the rear wing and rear tire removed. Keep in mind that I don't expect any stress to be exerted on this 'OUTERMOST' seam because it's already been welded and sealed from inside the car's cabin. I am now dealing with the portion exposed under the car and only visible to the road underneath (once the tire and rearwing are reinstalled.) I have thought about leaving this overlapping area of the two panels exposed to the elements and therefore do nothing to them. However, it seems this seam area needs some protection. I have thought about squeezing it full of 3M Seam Sealer which drys fairly hard, but is also suppose to remain 'stretchy'. I know it's good stuff, but, I have trouble thinking it will last 25 or more years. Another idea is to cover the seam area with a small strip of ('L-shaped' like angle iron) vinyl siding which might could be glued or 3M Seam Sealer-ed into place. Yet another idea is to attach a rubber-like matting over this seam. This would prohibit water-spray, however, it might not be as fast drying when this area gets wet. I am looking forward to partly doing this area over and I need help. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.5 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Nov 1 22:12:05 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2008 22:12:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] floorpan outer seams In-Reply-To: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net> Paul, I have a 23 year old Isuzu Trooper II that I use as a daily driver which still has the original paint and so far, no major rust. The Willamette valley in Oregon is fairly salt free, but a very moist environment. The body on it was sealed with some sort of elastomeric seam sealer which has held up very well over the years. It's still tough and flexible. I recently sealed my TR3 tub with urethane seam sealer. In combination with a good paint job, I expect it to hold up for many years. If you have a mechanically sound joint without huge gaps, I would go with a urethane sealer like one of the 3M products. Mike > I have thought about leaving this overlapping area of the two panels > exposed to the elements and therefore do nothing to them. However, it seems > this seam area needs some protection. I have thought about squeezing it full > of 3M Seam Sealer which drys fairly hard, but is also suppose to remain > 'stretchy'. I know it's good stuff, but, I have trouble thinking it will > last 25 or more years. From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Nov 1 22:14:52 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2008 22:14:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] floorpan outer seams In-Reply-To: <490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net> References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net> Message-ID: <490D374C.8070208@comcast.net> Oh, and as an after thought, you need to make sure that you have good clean surfaces for the urethane sealer to adhere to. Michael Lang wrote: > Paul, > > I have a 23 year old Isuzu Trooper II that I use as a daily driver which > still has the original paint and so far, no major rust. The Willamette > valley in Oregon is fairly salt free, but a very moist environment. The > body on it was sealed with some sort of elastomeric seam sealer which > has held up very well over the years. It's still tough and flexible. I > recently sealed my TR3 tub with urethane seam sealer. In combination > with a good paint job, I expect it to hold up for many years. > > If you have a mechanically sound joint without huge gaps, I would go > with a urethane sealer like one of the 3M products. > > Mike > >> I have thought about leaving this overlapping area of the two panels >> exposed to the elements and therefore do nothing to them. However, it seems >> this seam area needs some protection. I have thought about squeezing it full >> of 3M Seam Sealer which drys fairly hard, but is also suppose to remain >> 'stretchy'. I know it's good stuff, but, I have trouble thinking it will >> last 25 or more years. From auprichard at comcast.net Sun Nov 2 05:24:39 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 07:24:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: <490D374C.8070208@comcast.net> References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net> <490D374C.8070208@comcast.net> Message-ID: <40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1> What is the accepted etiquette when one is out for a drive with one's wife and a passing car yells "She's a beauty!" ? Reply "Thanks, we love our Triumphs", or "Thanks, we've been married a long time" ? In my case, I can lie about the year of the car and reply "Thanks - she's in great shape for a 1958 model", but it never sounds very convincing........ Andrew Uprichard From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Nov 2 06:04:42 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 09:04:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: <40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1> References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <490D374C.8070208@comcast.net> <40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <200811020804.42965.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 02 November 2008 07:24:39 Andrew Uprichard wrote: > What is the accepted etiquette when one is out for a drive with one's wife > and a passing car yells "She's a beauty!" ? > > Reply "Thanks, we love our Triumphs", or "Thanks, we've been married a long > time" ? > > In my case, I can lie about the year of the car and reply "Thanks - she's > in great shape for a 1958 model", but it never sounds very > convincing........ > > Andrew Uprichard Andy, Now that is a question I have not seen on this list and funny you should ask. Starting this year, my wife of 34 years decided that she would like to go with me when I attend car hops and other events. Not sure if she finally decided that if you cant beat them join them or "empty nest syndrome". In fact, she would call me at work and ask if we were going to (wherever) tonight so she didnt have to make dinner. Well as you may have guessed we did get alot of those "She's a beauty", etc in both the 3 and 4 all summer. All I did was give an acknowledgment with thumbs up, smile or a thanks if we were sitting next to the car. Now they may have been referring to my wife but I always took the complement as given for the car. Bob From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Nov 2 06:34:32 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 08:34:32 EST Subject: [TR] Etiquette Message-ID: In a message dated 11/2/2008 4:26:21 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, auprichard at comcast.net writes: What is the accepted etiquette when one is out for a drive with one's wife and a passing car yells "She's a beauty!" ? Reply "Thanks, we love our Triumphs", or "Thanks, we've been married a long time" ? In my case, I can lie about the year of the car and reply "Thanks - she's in great shape for a 1958 model", but it never sounds very convincing........ Andrew Uprichard Dear Confused: Fish only get caught when they open their mouths. A simple equally ambiguous "Thank You" is adequate and prudent. Abby **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 2 06:46:03 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2008 08:46:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <490D68CB.8148.322B7105@localhost> > What is the accepted etiquette when one is out for a drive > with one's wife and a passing car yells "She's a beauty!" ? > Reply "Thanks, we love our Triumphs", or "Thanks, we've > been married a long time" ? "Thanks, we've been married a long time, and we credit our marital longevity to DOT5 and ZDDP-enhanced additives." -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Nov 2 12:01:29 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2008 11:01:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] heater control cable -TR6 References: Message-ID: <007401c93d1d$69b7d110$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello List, Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve. Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come loose on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be tightened or is this the way these cables usually fail? Thank you and regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11030 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 2 09:24:14 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 11:24:14 EST Subject: [TR] Etiquette Message-ID: In a message dated 11/2/2008 7:05:08 AM Central Standard Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > Starting this year, my wife of 34 years decided that she would like to go > with > me when I attend car hops and other events. Not sure if she finally decided > that if you cant beat them join them or "empty nest syndrome". > Sometimes it takes a close friend or realtive to divorce a philandering husband for the SO's to realize that cars are not a threat to their place in the pecking order. Dave From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sun Nov 2 12:12:36 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 14:12:36 EST Subject: [TR] Etiquette Message-ID: In a message dated 11/2/2008 8:25:11 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: In a message dated 11/2/2008 7:05:08 AM Central Standard Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > Starting this year, my wife of 34 years decided that she would like to go > with > me when I attend car hops and other events. Not sure if she finally decided > that if you cant beat them join them or "empty nest syndrome". > Sometimes it takes a close friend or realtive to divorce a philandering husband for the SO's to realize that cars are not a threat to their place in the pecking order. Dave My wife became really enthusiastic when we began sharing the driving, especially on rallies. She's an excellent driver, and I enjoy navigation. It made a huge difference. Mike Moore Engineering Manager CL Moore & Associates, Inc. 17590 Holiday Drive, Morgan Hill, California 95037 408-782-1272 fax 408-782-1372 **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Nov 2 14:10:19 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 13:10:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: <40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1> References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><490D36A5.1080802@comcast.n et> <490D374C.8070208@comcast.net> <40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: This is why AnnaBelle's secondary function (navigation is Primary) is to wave and smile at all the "thumbs up" and "nice cars" ... 8-) -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 2 16:59:25 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 18:59:25 EST Subject: [TR] floorpan outer seams Message-ID: Paul, Get seam sealer from the Eastwood catalogue. It is brushable and paintable and stays flexible. I used it on all my welds in floor pans, inner sills, etc. Heating metal in the welding process makes it more prone to rust, so you want to seal it as soon as you can. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Nov 2 17:23:52 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 19:23:52 EST Subject: [TR] Etiquette Message-ID: In a message dated 11/2/2008 1:12:36 PM Central Standard Time, MMoore8425 at aol.com writes: > My wife became really enthusiastic when we began sharing the driving, > especially on rallies. She's an excellent driver, and I enjoy navigation. It made > a huge difference. > Mike Moore > > Well, good for you (and her)! Dave From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Nov 2 18:08:24 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 20:08:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Be careful. It's a ploy. My wife participated in my Triumph hobby for years even driving my car at autocrosses. I ended up having to buy her her own TR8 this summer. Marty > From: Dave1massey at cs.com > Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 19:23:52 -0500 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Etiquette > > In a message dated 11/2/2008 1:12:36 PM Central Standard Time, > MMoore8425 at aol.com writes: > > My wife became really enthusiastic when we began sharing the driving, > > especially on rallies. She's an excellent driver, and I enjoy navigation. It made > > a huge difference. > > Mike Moore > > > > > Well, good for you (and her)! > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ When your life is on the gotake your life with you. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/ From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 2 18:44:52 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 20:44:52 EST Subject: [TR] Etiquette Message-ID: In a message dated 11/2/2008 8:45:48 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: "Thanks, we've been married a long time, and we credit our marital longevity to DOT5 and ZDDP-enhanced additives." This is my second marriage and my wife is considerably younger than I, so she does not have solid lifters. At times she is able to make paint peel so I can only assume that she has not advanced to DOT5. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From allegrorover at mac.com Sun Nov 2 20:12:56 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2008 22:12:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] BMH certificate Message-ID: <17EC1EC2-34B4-4C83-B7F3-3CABAEB516AA@mac.com> List, My brother in law has recently purchased a 59 TR3A for restoration (TS 51169L) and I would like to order the British Motor Heritage certificate for him, but I don't have the address any longer. Could someone please send that? Is it still $50.00? Thanks in advance Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com Sun Nov 2 20:18:10 2008 From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 22:18:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] BMH certificate In-Reply-To: <17EC1EC2-34B4-4C83-B7F3-3CABAEB516AA@mac.com> References: <17EC1EC2-34B4-4C83-B7F3-3CABAEB516AA@mac.com> Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106D5F73B41@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Hi Tony, All the info is on their website: http://www.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/pages/exhibitions/exhibitions_heritage _certificates.html Jim '68 Spitfire Mk3 '75 Spitfire 1500 '77 Spitfire 1500 NASS #302 York, PA www.littlebluespitfire.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 10:13 PM To: email list Subject: [TR] BMH certificate List, My brother in law has recently purchased a 59 TR3A for restoration (TS 51169L) and I would like to order the British Motor Heritage certificate for him, but I don't have the address any longer. Could someone please send that? Is it still $50.00? Thanks in advance Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jim.holmgren at corp.aol.com http://www.team.net/archive The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Sun Nov 2 20:24:34 2008 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 21:24:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3F029281AD44434D9053B415FF8166B3@aitinc.local> Same thing happened to me, except I wound up buying (now in the process of restoring) a Triumph Herald convertible. My TR6 still needs paint but it's funny how her car wound up getting paint first. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "marty sukey" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 7:08 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Etiquette > Be careful. It's a ploy. My wife participated in my Triumph hobby for > years > even driving my car at autocrosses. I ended up having to buy her her own > TR8 > this summer. > > Marty From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Nov 2 20:57:44 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 03:57:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] NOS parts and question. Message-ID: Hi list, In a box my son and I cleaned out of an old storage room I found what appear to be NOS TR3A ball joints. If anyone is interested please let me know off list. Also, I have a tonneau cover that only covers the top bows. It is apparently supposed to fasten to lift the dot fastener posts at the very rear interior screw. However the lift the dot posts I have do not have a screw long enough to engage the sheet metal they should screw into. Are there any lift the dot posts made with a 1 1/4" metal screw mounting? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 2 21:41:46 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 20:41:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] BMH certificate In-Reply-To: <17EC1EC2-34B4-4C83-B7F3-3CABAEB516AA@mac.com> Message-ID: <20081103044146.PXLH13610.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > My brother in law has recently purchased a 59 TR3A for restoration (TS > 51169L) and I would like to order the British Motor Heritage > certificate for him, If you just want the information and not the fancy certificate, I believe that is available through TRA for less cost. Of course you also have to join TRA, but that's a Good Thing for someone wanting to restore a sidecurtain car. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Mon Nov 3 05:26:07 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 07:26:07 EST Subject: [TR] NOS parts and question. Message-ID: In a message dated 11/2/2008 10:58:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: Also, I have a tonneau cover that only covers the top bows. It is apparently supposed to fasten to lift the dot fastener posts at the very rear interior screw. However the lift the dot posts I have do not have a screw long enough to engage the sheet metal they should screw into. Are you referring to the screw at the very rear of the "over the arch" panel. It made sense to put the post there but my hood stick cover will not reach between the two posts when in place. Are we sure that is where it goes? FT was kind enough tho send me a description of where this post goes, and I thought I understood, but. . . David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 3 06:43:54 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 13:43:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] NOS parts and question. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: >Are you referring to the screw at the very rear of the "over the arch" panel. It made sense to put the post there but my hood stick cover will not reach between the two posts when in place. Are we sure that is where it goes? FT was kind enough tho send me a description of where this post goes, and I thought I understood, but. . . This is the screw that I referred to. In a rush of delusion last night I made lift the dot posts that are long enough to reach the sheet metal. I took old lift the dot posts with 1/3" screws and ground the screws of until a little bradd showed on their underside. Then I took the proper length sheet metal hex head srews and groung off the hex head down to the rim around the head. Then I mixed up a small amount of J B Weld and applied it to the bottom of the post and the head of the sdrew. I pressed the two coated sides together and held them against each other for several minutes until the excess J B Weld tested as set to the touch. After a couple of hour I began screwing the first such post into the hole and sheet metal. It is a tight fit so I let it be over night so the J B Wels will have time to cure thoroughly. O expect to be able to finish the job this morning. Best regards, Tom From: DLylis at aol.com Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 07:26:07 -0500 Subject: Re: [TR] NOS parts and question. To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net In a message dated 11/2/2008 10:58:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes: Also, I have a tonneau cover that only covers the top bows. It is apparently supposed to fasten to lift the dot fastener posts at the very rear interior screw. However the lift the dot posts I have do not have a screw long enough to engage the sheet metal they should screw into. Are you referring to the screw at the very rear of the "over the arch" panel. It made sense to put the post there but my hood stick cover will not reach between the two posts when in place. Are we sure that is where it goes? FT was kind enough tho send me a description of where this post goes, and I thought I understood, but. . . David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of your life. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/ From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 3 08:50:23 2008 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 09:50:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets CD Message-ID: Triumphistae- The Illinois Sports Owners Association has a dozen or so surplus copies of "Tappetstry" by the renowned Triumph parody band, Spinal Tappets. The CD was professionally engineered and produced for the 2008 VTR convention. There are 11 parody tracks ["Olde Tyme TR3" to the tune of "Old Time Rock and Roll" by Bob Seger, "Land of the Rising Sun" - to the tune of "House of the Rising Sun" by the Animals, "Flatbeds, Parts & Money" to the tune of "Lawyers, Guns, and Money" by Warren Zevon, "Grinding Through the Gears" to the tune "Reeling through the Years" by Steely Dan, "Push" to the tune of Hush, and "While my TR Gently Leaks", to the tune of "While my Guitar Gently Weeps" by George Harrison,] plus the five tracks that were on the 2005 CD given to attendees at the Rockford VTR. The CDs will be sold "first come first serve" for $10.00 each, which includes shipping and handling within the United States. If you would like one of these collector items, please email Kim Jensen, ISOA treasurer at KimandBill76 at sbcglobal.net From pethier at comcast.net Mon Nov 3 10:41:33 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2008 17:41:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets CD Message-ID: <110320081741.25206.490F37CD000B3E780000627622155538949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Yes, I want one! I was bummed that I could not attend the convention. Hope to see you all next year. If everything goes just right, we will be tagging along with JonMac from the Twin Cities to California. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Bob Streepy" > Triumphistae- > The Illinois Sports Owners Association has a dozen or so surplus copies > of > "Tappetstry" From coefront at shaw.ca Mon Nov 3 12:34:59 2008 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 12:34:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] California Triumph Meet Message-ID: I'd like to learn more about the upcoming 2009 Triumph Meet in California. Attending would be very tempting. Anyone with information out there please? Mike. coefront at shaw.ca 1982 TR8 2000 Volvo C70. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 3 12:43:18 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 11:43:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] heater control cable -TR6 In-Reply-To: <007401c93d1d$69b7d110$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <007401c93d1d$69b7d110$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <154D3ACBFD994937AB80A7BED8EC0738@jdnet.deere.com> > Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve. > Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come loose > on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be tightened > or > is this the way these cables usually fail? Bob, in my very limited experience, what happens first is that the valve itself gets hard to move. Then the center wire buckles right at the dashboard lever, producing the condition you describe. The temporary cure appears to be to replace both the valve and the cable. The permanent cure appears to be to re-engineer the thing using a different valve. Although I have not tried it, I suspect you could leave the original valve in place (open) and a dummy length of operating cable through the firewall; then rig the interior lever to operate a Chrysler-style valve hidden inside the passenger compartment. But it's just a thought since I don't own a TR6. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Nov 3 12:50:46 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 14:50:46 EST Subject: [TR] California Triumph Meet Message-ID: See: _http://web.mac.com/sctoa/triumphest/Advertisements_files/TPhest-BusCard%20Hor iz%20Grey.pdf_ (http://web.mac.com/sctoa/triumphest/Advertisements_files/TPhest-BusCard%20Horiz%20Grey.pdf) **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 3 12:56:57 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 11:56:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] California Triumph Meet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8C61FE393916493481ACD9A37EF8B7F4@jdnet.deere.com> > I'd like to learn more about the upcoming 2009 Triumph Meet in California. > Attending would be very tempting. Anyone with information out there > please? Check out http://web.mac.com/sctoa/triumphest/Welcome.html This is a first-ever joining of the two largest annual Triumph events, with both Triumphest and the VTR National Convention combined for the first time. Located in one of California's oldest communities (founded 1772), it should be an event to remember. Nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the Santa Lucia mountains, SLO typically has absolutely perfect top-down weather in October, with average highs in the low 70s and overnight lows in the high 40s. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Luis_Obispo Anything else you'd like to know? Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Nov 3 13:52:51 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 15:52:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] heater control cable -TR6 In-Reply-To: <154D3ACBFD994937AB80A7BED8EC0738@jdnet.deere.com> References: <007401c93d1d$69b7d110$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> <154D3ACBFD994937AB80A7BED8EC0738@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <55573A18E04B4A03B82EE43C127E6C85@BOBSNEWPC> Randall, Can you explain more about the Chrysler style valve? What make model is it off of and where are you suggesting it be mounted (in the inlet hose to the heater maybe)? Not being hung up on originality, I'd just ditch the valve and tie the hose directly to the block and operate the open/close function by the Chrysler valve of which you speak! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 2:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] heater control cable -TR6 > Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve. > Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come > loose on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be > tightened or is this the way these cables usually fail? Bob, in my very limited experience, what happens first is that the valve itself gets hard to move. Then the center wire buckles right at the dashboard lever, producing the condition you describe. The temporary cure appears to be to replace both the valve and the cable. The permanent cure appears to be to re-engineer the thing using a different valve. Although I have not tried it, I suspect you could leave the original valve in place (open) and a dummy length of operating cable through the firewall; then rig the interior lever to operate a Chrysler-style valve hidden inside the passenger compartment. But it's just a thought since I don't own a TR6. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From sliclass at gmail.com Mon Nov 3 14:41:12 2008 From: sliclass at gmail.com (Slightly Classics) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 14:41:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-3 stuff wanted Message-ID: <7C2C9D85-03F2-4389-ABA9-FC0F91FC06BF@gmail.com> I have a customer in Texas looking for TR-3A pre-60K items: doors, front fenders, tranny tunnel, dash center console gauge holder (and gauges) and even a halfway decent frame. He is trying to resurrect an ex-racer. He is quite willing to pay a fair price.... Thanks, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson, AZ From jimbpps at cox.net Mon Nov 3 14:50:27 2008 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 14:50:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] heater control cable -TR6 In-Reply-To: <55573A18E04B4A03B82EE43C127E6C85@BOBSNEWPC> References: <007401c93d1d$69b7d110$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com><154D3ACBFD994937AB80A7BED8EC0738@jdnet.deere.com> <55573A18E04B4A03B82EE43C127E6C85@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: At the recent Triumphest at Lake Tahoe, someone(?) was selling a 1/4 turn ball style valve that they said was for a Rambler! It seemed to have the same mechanical properties and appeared to be a good physical replacement for the stock valve without the physical problems! They wanted $60 or $65 for it, I passed on it but a friend did buy one. As far as I know he hasn't installed it in his TR6 yet though! I did a web search and did not find anything quite like the ones this guy was selling. Good luck, Jim -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:53 PM To: 'Randall'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] heater control cable -TR6 Randall, Can you explain more about the Chrysler style valve? What make model is it off of and where are you suggesting it be mounted (in the inlet hose to the heater maybe)? Not being hung up on originality, I'd just ditch the valve and tie the hose directly to the block and operate the open/close function by the Chrysler valve of which you speak! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 2:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] heater control cable -TR6 > Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve. > Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come > loose on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be > tightened or is this the way these cables usually fail? Bob, in my very limited experience, what happens first is that the valve itself gets hard to move. Then the center wire buckles right at the dashboard lever, producing the condition you describe. The temporary cure appears to be to replace both the valve and the cable. The permanent cure appears to be to re-engineer the thing using a different valve. Although I have not tried it, I suspect you could leave the original valve in place (open) and a dummy length of operating cable through the firewall; then rig the interior lever to operate a Chrysler-style valve hidden inside the passenger compartment. But it's just a thought since I don't own a TR6. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 3 15:25:24 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 14:25:24 -0800 Subject: [TR] heater control cable -TR6 In-Reply-To: <55573A18E04B4A03B82EE43C127E6C85@BOBSNEWPC> References: <007401c93d1d$69b7d110$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> <154D3ACBFD994937AB80A7BED8EC0738@jdnet.deere.com> <55573A18E04B4A03B82EE43C127E6C85@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <03303AC0A0AE444887833CE2343F4A8C@jdnet.deere.com> > Can you explain more about the Chrysler style valve? What make model is it > off of Well, I may have spoken too soon. It seems to me that back in the 60s, almost all the A and B body Chrysler products (without AC or vacuum-controlled heater) used a similar heater valve. It was cable-operated, had 1/2" hose barbs on both sides, and basically just hung on the heater hoses. But I haven't been able to find a photo or drawing on-line to verify an application; and my memory isn't clear enough to swear which cars used it. I _think_ my 64 Dart did, as well as my 71 Valiant and Dad's 68 Coronet wagon; but that was all a long time ago. My cars both had 225 slant sixes, Dad's had a 318 V8. Here's the best shot I could find (which isn't for a Chrysler at all, and has a mounting bracket they didn't have, but maybe gives you the idea) http://tinyurl.com/6owqqh > and where are you suggesting it be mounted (in the inlet hose to > the > heater maybe)? ISTR it was originally in the return line, but either one should do. Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Nov 3 16:38:24 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2008 18:38:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] California Triumph Meet In-Reply-To: <8C61FE393916493481ACD9A37EF8B7F4@jdnet.deere.com> References: <8C61FE393916493481ACD9A37EF8B7F4@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <74FCF1F5D5E544FF80A54D0563E224F0@CarlPC> the combined meet as well as a familiarity with the venue has me seriously 'pondering' the idea of getting there. Of course having the body back in the garage (albeit not on the chassis or even painted) is adding to the temptation. Then there is the 6,000+ drive to look forward to... Ah to dream.... but doable... Carl Trial fit on the chassis this weekend (4 days because of Veteran's day). ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 2:56 PM Subject: Re: [TR] California Triumph Meet >> I'd like to learn more about the upcoming 2009 Triumph Meet in >> California. >> Attending would be very tempting. Anyone with information out there >> please? > > Check out > http://web.mac.com/sctoa/triumphest/Welcome.html > > This is a first-ever joining of the two largest annual Triumph events, > with > both Triumphest and the VTR National Convention combined for the first > time. > > > Located in one of California's oldest communities (founded 1772), it > should > be an event to remember. Nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the Santa > Lucia mountains, SLO typically has absolutely perfect top-down weather in > October, with average highs in the low 70s and overnight lows in the high > 40s. > http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Luis_Obispo > > Anything else you'd like to know? > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 3 16:47:47 2008 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 17:47:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tappetstry & ISOA Calendars Message-ID: List- The Spinal Tappets CDs are all spoken for. But wait, there's more... ISOA also has 2009, full color 8 1/2 x 11" calendars available again this year. This edition features a TR3, a TR4, 6 TR6s, a Spitfire MK I, an 1800 Roadster, a TR7 and the Transamerican Charity Stag. They are for sale, while they last, for $7.00 plus $2.00 shipping and handling. Quantity discounts are available. Please contact Joe Pawlak at: stagfire6573 at foxvalley.net or mail your check to ViData Print, 365 S. Main, Box 37 - Burlington, IL 60109. Please do not reply to me. Bob Streepy, ISOA Sec'y From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 3 17:20:32 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 16:20:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] California Triumph Meet In-Reply-To: <74FCF1F5D5E544FF80A54D0563E224F0@CarlPC> References: <8C61FE393916493481ACD9A37EF8B7F4@jdnet.deere.com> <74FCF1F5D5E544FF80A54D0563E224F0@CarlPC> Message-ID: > Then there is the 6,000+ drive to look forward to... FWIW, I know some local TR owners had their cars shipped one way to the VTR Nationals this year. I didn't ask for details, but they seemed pleased with the result. With hotels and fuel factored in, I understand it was also cost-effective. And for once, Herman won't be competing for the "long distance" award ... Randall From AA00727 at aol.com Mon Nov 3 22:52:51 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 00:52:51 EST Subject: [TR] TR-3 Camber adjustment Message-ID: I have a problem with the alignment on my TR-3 that is just nearing completion. Actually several problems! Number one - The Camber: RH side 1/2 degree negative, LH side 2 degrees positive. It pulls like the dickens. What's ideal for the street and how does one make changes that the factory didn't provide for? Some of you racers out there must have found good ways to adjust camber? Thanks, Gary in WI **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Nov 3 23:38:21 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 00:38:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 Stromberg needle selection Message-ID: The car is stock AFAIK, no mods to my knowledge or observation-- (I just bought it, but there are lots of reasons to believe it's very original. 175 CD Strombergs. I haven't run it since buying it -- it needs a full fuel system overhaul. I bought carb kits for my '64 TR4 from Joe Curto, and he sent 2H needles, but all books call for a 2A needle for TR4's. TR4A's use a 2H needle, but they've got a different cam too. The needle specs show the 2H is roughly .009" thinner at most stations, so this is going to be a much richer needle. I called Joe Curto and he said he meant to send this needle, as it's the "go-to" needle for TR4's. If that's so, why didn't the factory change the specs ? I know he rebuilds lots of carbs, but I hesitate to change from stock till I have a reason to do so. Anyone got a Stromberg-equipped TR4 ? What needle do you use ? Thanks ! Karl Life is like a jar of jalapenos -- What you do today might burn your butt tomorrow !! From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Nov 4 06:24:53 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 08:24:53 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 Stromberg needle selection Message-ID: If that's so, why didn't the factory change the specs ? Karl, In a nutshell.....I'm guessing that the 2A needle was the "best match" in 1964 for performance and driveability over the entire range of rpm and was probably best suited to 1964 fuel composition (which included lead to improve anti-knocking). Fast forward to the 21st century and, while performance and driveability concerns haven't changed, fuel composition certainly has and that's where more robust (richer) needles like the 2H can help. Try the 2H needles and see if they work well for you....I gave up stock needles many years ago and have never regretted it. I'm using B1E needles on my TR6 Strombergs (later adjustable needle style 175 CDs) which are quite a bit "thinner" than stock. My engine has been extensively modified so these needles work very well but I've fitted them on TR6 motors with lesser modifications and have gotten similar good response. So, you could rebuild with 2A and see how it runs then swap out the needles for the 2H and compare - my preference would be to install the 2H and enjoy! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 4 06:32:59 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 08:32:59 EST Subject: [TR] TR-3 Camber adjustment Message-ID: In a message dated 11/3/2008 11:53:10 PM Central Standard Time, AA00727 at aol.com writes: > Number one - The Camber: RH side 1/2 degree negative, LH side 2 degrees > positive. It pulls like the dickens. What's ideal for the street and how > does > one make changes that the factory didn't provide for? > Camber on a TR3 is "Not Adjustable." That means it is set by frame alignment. There are ways around that such as bushings with offset center holes. As far as what is the best Camber: the most important thing is to have the same on both sides. But ISTR 1/2 deg is closer to the factory spec than 2 degs (going from memory here). This suggests the LH shock tower has been knocked out of alignment. The first question is "Do you have the cross tube mounted?" The shock towers are a bit flimsy without it and installing it may change your camber readings. Dave From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Nov 4 09:47:40 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2008 08:47:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] heater control cable -TR6.. References: Message-ID: <00e801c93e9d$0d491250$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Thanks all. Problem identified. At the control end of the cable the outer portion is broken. It looks and old-tired. Tight bend around radio and too many pulls have taken its toll. New cable on order from TRF. Thanks again. Regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11050 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 4 08:37:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 07:37:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-3 Camber adjustment In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081104153711.XERT6605.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Number one - The Camber: RH side 1/2 degree negative, LH > side 2 degrees positive. It pulls like the dickens. What's > ideal for the street and how does one make changes that the > factory didn't provide for? Original spec was 2 deg positive; so you've got something badly bent in the RH suspension. Although there are several ways to make changes to camber, IMO you should find and fix whatever is bent (since it may also be broken or worse yet, nearly so). On one of my TR3As, part of the lower front suspension pulled away from the frame. The upper A-arms also sometimes crack and lose their shape. Or the stub axle/vertical link may be bent and/or cracked. On the 3A with the suspension pulled out of the frame, the pulling was controllable or so I thought. Until one day I had to make a sudden stop, and could NOT keep the car on my side of the road! Fortunately there was no one coming the other way ... 1.5 degrees of camber is about 0.4" at the rim of the wheel, which should be over 1/4" at the A-arms. It shouldn't be that hard to inspect and find the problem, if you remove the wheels and compare side to side. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Nov 4 09:25:18 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 09:25:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Replacement Message-ID: <7bb181af0811040825t2114458el9436131b0a8b32d9@mail.gmail.com> Been on the road and off the list for a month... what'd I miss? I need to replace the fan on the TR4 and for reasons of originality will been using a stock fan. It seems straight-forward but I have questions about balancing. If there is/are balance piece(s) in place do I just reuse them in the same spot as before? The manual is a bit vague on how any balancing should occur and I'm not even clear whether the pieces are mainly balancing the fan or the hub extension. Using a couple of crude balancing arrangements the replacement fan itself appears to be fairly balanced and I likely could improve that slightly by removing some material. The main question -- how critical is balance here and if critical, how do I get it? This is a non-race stock engine. Driving style is spirited but not aggressive though the car does see all-day drives at 3000-3200 RPM. Thanks for any help. From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 4 09:35:08 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 11:35:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Replacement Message-ID: <20081104113508.BQR46836@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Geo Hahn said: > Been on the road and off the list for a month... what'd I miss? Well, for starters, the fact that someone else asked that very question a week ago! Though we didn't actually discuss starters. We discussed ZDDP, tire sizes, DTOn vs. DOTn+1, and, umm, Newcastle Ale. I think we were mostly in favor of it. -- Jim Muller From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Tue Nov 4 10:51:41 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 10:51:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Replacement In-Reply-To: <20081104113508.BQR46836@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20081104113508.BQR46836@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0811040951y23e03d25gd5a731a013fc1f1f@mail.gmail.com> I couldn't find it with either an archive search or by looking at threads for the past 5 weeks -- but then subject lines are often cryptic and threads can get hijacked w/o a change in subject line. I did learn that the balance pieces are to balance the fan (not the extension). If there is an explanation there (how to balance a replacement stock fan) perhaps someone can point me to it. Thanks! Geo On 11/4/08, jimmuller at rcn.com wrote: > > Well, for starters, the fact that someone else asked that very question a > week ago! From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Tue Nov 4 11:42:36 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 10:42:36 -0800 (GMT-08:00) Subject: [TR] 1951 Truimph 1800 roadster on craigslist NorCal Message-ID: <6072794.1225824156474.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net> http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/898207965.html Engine runs great. 4 speed. Car can be convertible or the shell can be put on. $21,000 or best offer. Needs paint on back fender / panel. amazing condition, awesome engine, 4 speed; must double clutch to put in/out of third. needs paint on back fender. gas gage doesn't work. call Lynda 530-623-2017 Price: $ 21,000.00 or Offer Make: Triumph Model: 1800 Roadster Year: 1947 Miles: 50 K From supertr6 at earthlink.net Tue Nov 4 12:04:10 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2008 14:04:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1951 Truimph 1800 roadster on craigslist NorCal In-Reply-To: <6072794.1225824156474.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <6072794.1225824156474.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <49109CAA.1080201@earthlink.net> Doesn't that seem a tad optimistic for its condition? rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net wrote: > http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/cto/898207965.html > > Engine runs great. 4 speed. Car can be convertible or the shell can be put on. $21,000 or best offer. Needs paint on back fender / panel. amazing condition, awesome engine, 4 speed; must double clutch to put in/out of third. needs paint on back fender. gas gage doesn't work. > call Lynda 530-623-2017 > > Price: $ 21,000.00 or Offer > Make: Triumph > Model: 1800 Roadster > Year: 1947 > Miles: 50 K > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From FGFO1 at aol.com Tue Nov 4 14:43:30 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 16:43:30 EST Subject: [TR] daytona beach Message-ID: Any one attending the classic races at daytona beach Fl this weekend? Frank Fisher **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 4 14:55:07 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 16:55:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores Message-ID: <20081104165507.BQS32678@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> For the last month or so I've been chasing a problem with one or more tires on the GT6. Well actually, I've had all four of them on the GT6, but been at tire shops chasing a tire problem. One at least, probably the RF, is out of balance and/or out of round. At certain speeds I can see the RF of the bonnet hopping up and down and feel it in the steering. Eventually that side's latch will pop open. The trouble is, is that I don't have much time these days. I have to squeeze the calendar for such chores. First I speak to the shop over the phone about the problem, ask about their selections, what they suggest, etc. Then I drive over when I can. That's when the frustration starts. One shop tried to balance them, showed me how much hop one tire had (I think it was the RF), pointed to an absurd amount of weight they had to add, blah blah blah. One shop had almost no selection (in either 155/80x13 or 175/70x13) even though their website bragged about how they had everything. The attendants then have to tell me about how I need to worry about rust. (Tell me more!) Then they question the steering and bearing stability. (Duh, I know the state of the tie rod ends. I've replaced them all recently. And adjusted the bearing play.) Then they mistrust the chrome plating on the lug nuts. Then thoroughly mistrust the funny Triumph lugnuts with the washers to hold on the spring-loaded hubcaps (which are no longer on the car). Then they see the rear wheel camber, especially on the Spitfire, and tell me I need to have them aligned because those wheels are "kicked out". The final straw is always that, though they encourage walk-in business, I'll have to wait 9! 0 minutes before they can even get to my car and the promised 30min wait after that will most certainly be another 90min. I can't squeeze that tight. You know, if I keep it under an indicated 65 (which is actually in the lower 60's), it's pretty smooth. Maybe I'll just wait till spring. -- Jim Muller '70 GT6 '80 Spitfire From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 4 18:21:28 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 18:21:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Replacement In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0811040951y23e03d25gd5a731a013fc1f1f@mail.gmail.com> References: <20081104113508.BQR46836@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> <7bb181af0811040951y23e03d25gd5a731a013fc1f1f@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4F012862616C47C3A484AD6682B9A762@sniffer> Geo, >From the TR2-3 manual is says; "Using a jig, ascertain the lighter side of the assembly and fit the balancer to that side." I know you wanted more than that, hope there is more help to come! If someone has a picture of the jug, I would like to see it too as I will be crossing this bridge soon, I hope. I will be installing a TR4 Tropical Fan on my newly re-built TR3 engine. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Geo Hahn Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 10:52 AM To: jimmuller at rcn.com Cc: TR List Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Fan Replacement I couldn't find it with either an archive search or by looking at threads for the past 5 weeks -- but then subject lines are often cryptic and threads can get hijacked w/o a change in subject line. I did learn that the balance pieces are to balance the fan (not the extension). If there is an explanation there (how to balance a replacement stock fan) perhaps someone can point me to it. Thanks! Geo On 11/4/08, jimmuller at rcn.com wrote: > > Well, for starters, the fact that someone else asked that very > question a week ago! This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.6/1765 - Release Date: 11/4/2008 9:38 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 4 19:29:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 18:29:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Replacement In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0811040951y23e03d25gd5a731a013fc1f1f@mail.gmail.com> References: <20081104113508.BQR46836@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> <7bb181af0811040951y23e03d25gd5a731a013fc1f1f@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: > If there is an explanation there (how to balance a replacement stock > fan) perhaps someone can point me to it. Thanks! Seems to me the consensus was to find a motorcycle shop with a static balancer. http://tinyurl.com/68b4pd Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 4 19:29:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 18:29:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: <20081104165507.BQS32678@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20081104165507.BQS32678@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <3897EF33397842C89D8C9D3D0E3ED146@jdnet.deere.com> > Well actually, I've had all four of them on the GT6, > but been at tire shops chasing a tire problem. Jim, not all tire stores are created equal. If that one won't work with you, find another one. Even different stores in the same chain can vary widely; the local "Discount Tire" has tried to rip me off every time I've gone there, while a few miles down the street "Americas Tire" is owned by the same company and they have always treated me right. They also have a restaurant right next door, so I can drop the car off, walk next door for Chinese food, then pick the car up when I'm done. One of the most important aspects is to ensure that their equipment is locating your wheels the same way your car does. I don't know about Spitfires, but most Triumphs locate the wheels by the lug holes rather than the center hole; while most tire balancing equipment locates by the center hole. This can lead to all sorts of problems, if the center hole is damaged or simply not concentric for some reason. Another potential problem may be that the hub and brake rotor are not balanced, or perhaps even not concentric. Tires can also fail in such a way that they do not roll evenly, even when balanced perfectly. For a way forward, I would call around and see if anyone has the equipment to balance the tires on the car. This neatly sidesteps the problem of how the balancing equipment holds the wheel, or the hubs being out of balance. Also ask them to check for runout at the surface of the tire. If it still hops after that, IMO it's time for a new tire. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 4 19:45:22 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2008 21:45:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: <3897EF33397842C89D8C9D3D0E3ED146@jdnet.deere.com> References: <20081104165507.BQS32678@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <4910C272.24499.3F41A53E@localhost> Thanks, Randall, for writing: > Jim, not all tire stores are created equal. If that one won't work > with you, find another one. That's exactly what I've concluded. Of course, I was partly just ranting at the ignorance of the dweebs who work at some of these place. Pro'bly never occurred to them that wheels don't have to be perzactly vertical. Camber? What's camber? You'll have to fix that, you know... > Also ask them to check for runout at the surface of the tire. This term stumps me however. What do you mean by runout at the surface? Visibly inconstant radius as the wheel spins? Or perhaps taking it one dimension deeper, a radius which varies across the tread as the wheel spins? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Nov 4 19:47:59 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2008 20:47:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR-3 Camber adjustment In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20081105024809.817E71878ED@autox.team.net> Does the orientation of the upper trunnion make a difference? I seem to remember that flipping the trunnion would add / remove camber. If so, maybe one side has it in opposite of the other one. To make the non-adjustable suspension adjustable, we typically shorten the upper A-arms, either by carefully sectioning them or by cutting off the inner ends and welding a threaded tube to them so we can attach a heim joint to the end. This actually gives adjustability. Like the others said, something's pretty dramatically wrong with a 2.5 degree difference side to side. Even though stock is 2 degrees positive camber, I'm sure I'd be happier with 0 degrees or maybe a touch of negative camber. - Tony Drews At 11:52 PM 11/3/2008, AA00727 at aol.com wrote: >I have a problem with the alignment on my TR-3 that is just nearing >completion. Actually several problems! > > Number one - The Camber: RH side 1/2 degree negative, LH side 2 degrees >positive. It pulls like the dickens. What's ideal for the street and >how does >one make changes that the factory didn't provide for? > > Some of you racers out there must have found good ways to adjust camber? > > Thanks, > > Gary in WI From spitlist at cox.net Tue Nov 4 19:48:26 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 19:48:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: <4910C272.24499.3F41A53E@localhost> References: <20081104165507.BQS32678@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> <4910C272.24499.3F41A53E@localhost> Message-ID: <823AB72CC00B401AA6C12859F58CA362@newcomputer> Most of those Dweebs have only worked on either solid axle rear drive cars or front wheel drive cars and therefore haven't the foggiest idea about the nature of independent rear suspension. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2008 7:45 PM To: Triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] tired of tire stores Thanks, Randall, for writing: > Jim, not all tire stores are created equal. If that one won't work > with you, find another one. That's exactly what I've concluded. Of course, I was partly just ranting at the ignorance of the dweebs who work at some of these place. Pro'bly never occurred to them that wheels don't have to be perzactly vertical. Camber? What's camber? You'll have to fix that, you know... > Also ask them to check for runout at the surface of the tire. This term stumps me however. What do you mean by runout at the surface? Visibly inconstant radius as the wheel spins? Or perhaps taking it one dimension deeper, a radius which varies across the tread as the wheel spins? From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 4 20:02:25 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2008 22:02:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: <823AB72CC00B401AA6C12859F58CA362@newcomputer> References: <4910C272.24499.3F41A53E@localhost> Message-ID: <4910C671.6538.3F513DFA@localhost> On 4 Nov 2008 at 19:48, Joe Curry wrote: > Most of those Dweebs have only worked on either solid axle rear drive cars > or front wheel drive cars and therefore haven't the foggiest idea about the > nature of independent rear suspension. Which is exactly the point, of course. They ain't never hear of 'em, let alone know how they work! In defense of one tire shop, I will say that at the place I got the new tires for the Spitfire they were conscientious enough to worry about the torque setting for such small wheel studs and do some research to find an answer. I also found an answer on triumphspitfire.com, about 45ft-lbs, I think. I think I'll end up back there for the GT6. O' course, by the time I can squeeze it into the calendar we'll probably have 6in of snow on the ground. Yes, I did vote today, as loudly and as often as I could. Voted right here in Massachusetts. Wondered if I could vote in Rhode Island too, since I work there now. Nope. I couldn't swing that. Oh well. But when I die I want to be buried in Chicago so I can remain politically active. :-) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 4 21:51:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 20:51:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: <823AB72CC00B401AA6C12859F58CA362@newcomputer> Message-ID: <20081105045145.LXUO16200.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > > Also ask them to check for runout at the surface of the tire. > > This term stumps me however. What do you mean by runout at > the surface? Visibly inconstant radius as the wheel spins? Yes, exactly. Either the wheel or the tire may not be true; or I've heard that sometimes the tire doesn't seat onto the wheel properly. Doing the check on the car gives you an "end to end" check of all the tolerances. Lateral runout (where the tire appears to move side-to-side as the wheel turns) is less important, but if it's large it should probably be corrected (usually by replacing the wheel). None of the things I suggested are normally required, these are extreme measures for hard-to-solve problems. Don't recall which car now, but I've actually had tires 'shaved' on the car to make them run true. Afterwards, we marked the wheel & one stud, so the wheel could be reinstalled in exactly the same location (tho perhaps that wasn't necessary). Hmm, maybe that was the Audi 100LS I bought in FL that had such a terrible vibration that I couldn't drive it home to IN. Randall From CarlSereda at aol.com Tue Nov 4 22:19:47 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 00:19:47 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 carb needles Message-ID: FYI: The Stromberg Spare Parts Schedule says; TR.4 1963 - early 1964 ID#1825 2A needle TR.4A early 1965 only ID#3043 2E needle TR.4A May 1965 - 1966 ID#3069 2H needle also, the first two carbs use natural colored piston springs, the last one uses a red piston spring. ps; very late in TR.4A production the carbs were leaned out for emmisions control - but by then the carbs were SU's. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 \The car is stock AFAIK, no mods to my knowledge or observation-- (I just bought it, but there are lots of reasons to believe it's very original. 175 CD Strombergs. I haven't run it since buying it -- it needs a full fuel system overhaul. I bought carb kits for my '64 TR4 from Joe Curto, and he sent 2H needles, but all books call for a 2A needle for TR4's. TR4A's use a 2H needle, but they've got a different cam too. The needle specs show the 2H is roughly .009" thinner at most stations, so this is going to be a much richer needle. I called Joe Curto and he said he meant to send this needle, as it's the "go-to" needle for TR4's. If that's so, why didn't the factory change the specs ? I know he rebuilds lots of carbs, but I hesitate to change from stock till I have a reason to do so. Anyone got a Stromberg-equipped TR4 ? What needle do you use ? Thanks ! Karl


**************
Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcn tustrav00000001) From mathews at uga.edu Wed Nov 5 02:16:03 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2008 04:16:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: <823AB72CC00B401AA6C12859F58CA362@newcomputer> References: <20081104165507.BQS32678@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> <4910C272.24499.3F41A53E@localhost> <823AB72CC00B401AA6C12859F58CA362@newcomputer> Message-ID: <20081105091611.6D710187657@autox.team.net> Just as a comment, a large number of front wheel drive cars have independent rear suspensions, even my wife's (soon to be mine) 95 Nissan Maxima. In my class on front end alignment (which I find I'm not too good at by the way, even after taking the class), one of the first things you do when you align a car is make sure the thrust line is down the center of the vehicle and that is done via aligning the rear suspension first. Doug At 09:48 PM 11/4/2008, Joe Curry wrote: >haven't the foggiest idea about the >nature of independent rear suspension. From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Nov 5 06:18:57 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 08:18:57 EST Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores Message-ID: Jim, Many years ago I learned that independent garages (as opposed to Tire Chains) offer the best solutions to tire/wheel problems with our cars and, if you can find one that is especially sensitive to "old" cars, you've really got a gem. I've got a guy who is only 12 miles away who specializes in wheel alignment/frame repair/balancing who is the third generation owner and who remembers his dad working on Brit cars and (here's the bottom line) completely understands old Brit car suspensions, wire wheels, trunnions, trailing arms, IRS, etc. I'm also blessed with having an independent tire store only a mile from home whose owner also understands old Brit cars, is a conscientious guy and respects the cars when he works on them. Point is......try to find someone like these guys in your neighborhood through word-of-mouth, local Triumph Club recommendation, etc. and give them a shot. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel. Check out Today's Hot 5 Travel Deals! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001) From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Wed Nov 5 08:48:51 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 07:48:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] speaking of tires Message-ID: <134533.72728.qm@web59412.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> just a quickie for those storing cars for the winter. I know radials aren't sposed to take on a "set" while sitting for several months but seems i can't get a small "bounce" taken out of mine and I've been thinking maybe its cause of "sitting" all winter? anyone else have a comment or similar problem? It'd be easy to simply block the car up if needed. gary n. From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Nov 5 09:13:10 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 11:13:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Jim, I had a problem with tires last spring. I replaced a worn out set of 155/80R13 tires on my Spitfire with T rated 175/70R13 tires. Well, I got such a shimmy and shaking above 55 mph and took the car back figuring I had a tire way out of balance. The tire shop checked all the tires and found that it was my rims that were all out of true and changing to a stiffer, wider tire was probably exacerbated the problem (stiffer sidewalls not flexing like the previous tire). So, I bought a set of alloy rims and the problem has disappeared. Randall is also correct that these are lug-centric rims and that if the centre hole is damaged or bent than that will affect the balance as well, which was probably part of my original rim's problem as well. Funny, all my cars, new and old, except the TR7, had lug-centric rims, yet no one locally balances by the lugs, all by the hub. Mark From: Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores For the last month or so I've been chasing a problem with one or more tires on the GT6. Well actually, I've had all four of them on the GT6, but been at tire shops chasing a tire problem. One at least, probably the RF, is out of balance and/or out of round. At certain speeds I can see the RF of the bonnet hopping up and down and feel it in the steering. Eventually that side's latch will pop open. From flashtr3 at cox.net Wed Nov 5 10:32:41 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 09:32:41 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wheel Straighting Message-ID: <8FA0FE4C403F402D9D4ABF41F9735C6E@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Can a stock TR6 wheel be straightened for run out? I have few wheels that are in good condition visually, but has to much run out for a smooth ride. Is there shop that specializes in straighten these wheels ? If so where? Thanks, Ibsen 71 TR6 From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Nov 5 10:56:07 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 12:56:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Jim, On your question about tire run-out, here's an interesting clip by John West of University Motors. John's view is that if you have major run-out, the wheel will be impossible to balance. A new tire may be the best way forward as Randall suggested. Check your spare though - it may be better than the wheel that is giving you an issue. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PeclYZQCyso John has many other clips on interesting topics. To view those, click 'More from UniversityMotorltd' to the right of the screen from the above link, then scroll the box immediately below to reveal the link 'Show all 75 videos'. John's work is dedicated to MGs, but many topics, such as wheel vibration, transfer to our Triumphs. Here are some I have enjoyed U-Joint in 5 minutes: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDX17xf9grA Using fluif to find tdc: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw7IdW4Qxcc Calculating compression ratio: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGuOMItsCXk Make your own gaskets: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6rx5hGKt1PY Static timing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpp67aqwM2Y Regards, Brian From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 5 10:42:40 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:42:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Wheel Straighting Message-ID: <110520081742.9809.4911DB1000070FFD0000265122155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> There may be places in your own area. Where are you? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Ibsen Dow" > Can a stock TR6 wheel be straightened for run out? I have few wheels that are > in good condition visually, but has to much run out for a smooth ride. Is > there shop that specializes in straighten these wheels ? If so where? > Thanks, > Ibsen > 71 TR6 From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 5 10:46:11 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:46:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] speaking of tires Message-ID: <110520081746.18714.4911DBE30006136A0000491A22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> I have not had a problem with the Kumho 165-15 tires on the TR4. The car sits on them all winter. I keep about 35 PSI in them. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Gary Nafziger > just a quickie for those storing cars for the winter. I know radials aren't > sposed to take on a "set" while sitting for several months but seems i can't > get a small "bounce" taken out of mine and I've been thinking maybe its cause > of "sitting" all winter? anyone else have a comment or similar problem? It'd > be easy to simply block the car up if needed. > > gary n. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From triumph66 at gmail.com Wed Nov 5 11:29:40 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 13:29:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] speaking of tires In-Reply-To: <110520081746.18714.4911DBE30006136A0000491A22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <110520081746.18714.4911DBE30006136A0000491A22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: Running 35 PSI, doesn't that take a toll on one's suspension, or is it quite fine to run above 30 PSI in a TR4-6?? Ted On Wed, Nov 5, 2008 at 12:46 PM, wrote: > I have not had a problem with the Kumho 165-15 tires on the TR4. The car > sits on them all winter. I keep about 35 PSI in them. > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata > C-package, 79 Caterham 7 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: Gary Nafziger > > just a quickie for those storing cars for the winter. I know radials > aren't > > sposed to take on a "set" while sitting for several months but seems i > can't > > get a small "bounce" taken out of mine and I've been thinking maybe its > cause > > of "sitting" all winter? anyone else have a comment or similar problem? > It'd > > be easy to simply block the car up if needed. > > > -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 5 11:36:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 10:36:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <433E494ADBF34DBA9982D55CFE851512@jdnet.deere.com> > John's view is that if you have major run-out, > the wheel will be impossible to balance. Funny thing is, I had a wheel (5.5" TR6 rim on my TR3A) with so much lateral runout that people would literally yell at me on the road that it was coming off (!), but it was balanced just fine. No shimmy or shake, even at 100 mph. Of course the car did vibrate some (driveshaft was out of balance), but changing that wheel made no noticeable difference. A friend of mine who sold and installed tires for many years once told me that the problem was the computer balancers. He demonstrated that "bubble" balancing (using a balancer that located by the lug holes) actually solved the shimmy on my motorhome; using about 3 ounces less weight than the "computer" called for. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 5 11:41:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 10:41:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wheel Straighting In-Reply-To: <8FA0FE4C403F402D9D4ABF41F9735C6E@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <8FA0FE4C403F402D9D4ABF41F9735C6E@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: > Can a stock TR6 wheel be straightened for run out? Not tried it myself, but I've been told it's a bad idea. Seems they tend to crack in the same area where they tend to bend, so straightening may lead to subsequent cracking. And having the wheel break loose from the hub doesn't sound like fun at all! Of course I probably heard that from a racer, and they pretty much agree that stock wheels are too weak for racing anyway; so perhaps it's fine for a car driven only on the street. But I didn't want to take the chance, so I found some more used TR6 wheels for likely less than it would have cost to have the old one straightened. Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Nov 5 11:44:24 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 12:44:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] tired of tire stores References: <433E494ADBF34DBA9982D55CFE851512@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <686B382F6BFE446A838BC0DAFBF20733@KARL> In the early 70's the Goodyear guys at the races used bubble balancers, even to balance tires for Can-Am cars. Dynamic balancing had already been popular for years, but they got better results with low-tech and skill. Karl > A friend of mine who sold and installed tires for many years once told me > that the problem was the computer balancers. He demonstrated that > "bubble" > balancing (using a balancer that located by the lug holes) actually solved > the shimmy on my motorhome; using about 3 ounces less weight than the > "computer" called for. > > Randall From sparkep at shaw.ca Tue Nov 4 19:15:32 2008 From: sparkep at shaw.ca (Peter Sparke) Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 18:15:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Parts Message-ID: Hello Bill, In reply to your request for TR3 parts I have most of what you need.Please contact me Peter Sparke 250-468-9142 or sparkep at shaw .ca From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Nov 5 21:48:58 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 05 Nov 2008 23:48:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] thanks all Message-ID: <491230EA.5615.44D926D1@localhost> ...for the tire advice. One thing some of you wouldn't know about this car is that it has Cosmic MkII wheels from a Lotus Europa. If they are bent, I would expect themto be broken too! But I will check. Soon as I get a round tuit I'll spin them on the car to check for runout at least. I s'pect I'll end up buying one or more new ones. Thanks again, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From spitlist at cox.net Wed Nov 5 22:10:22 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 22:10:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] thanks all In-Reply-To: <491230EA.5615.44D926D1@localhost> References: <491230EA.5615.44D926D1@localhost> Message-ID: <8423718F41F7494F996596202E2FB163@newcomputer> Jim, If they are alloy wheels, particularly very light ones, chances are they are bent. The lighter the wheels, the softer the alloy; and therefore the more easily they are bent. I had a set of Keiser wheels that I used for autocross and they could not be mounted on any by a few special machines because most exert too much pressure on the back side of the wheel to counter the breaking force that dislodges the tire bead from the rim. But on the positive side, there are places that specialize in straightening such rims. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 9:49 PM To: triumphs Subject: [TR] thanks all ...for the tire advice. One thing some of you wouldn't know about this car is that it has Cosmic MkII wheels from a Lotus Europa. If they are bent, I would expect themto be broken too! But I will check. Soon as I get a round tuit I'll spin them on the car to check for runout at least. I s'pect I'll end up buying one or more new ones. Thanks again, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 5 23:03:20 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 22:03:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] speaking of tires In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081106060320.RSAF10530.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Running 35 PSI, doesn't that take a toll on one's suspension, > or is it quite fine to run above 30 PSI in a TR4-6?? Doesn't seem to cause any problems on my TR3A, but of course it depends a lot on the tires you have installed. I don't think it's a question of harming the suspension in any way; only that the handling sometimes becomes unpredictable with higher tire pressures. But I always look for the pressure that gives me the best handling; and with some tires that has been as high as 35 psi. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Nov 6 04:37:35 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 06:37:35 EST Subject: [TR] thanks all Message-ID: In a message dated 11/5/2008 8:49:37 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: ...for the tire advice. One thing some of you wouldn't know about this car is that it has Cosmic MkII wheels from a Lotus Europa. If they are bent, I would expect themto be broken too! But I will check. Soon as I get a round tuit I'll spin them on the car to check for runout at least. I s'pect I'll end up buying one or more new ones. Thanks again, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com On my TR3 wheels, the runout was axial, not radial. The wheels were potato chip shaped. Mike Moore **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Nov 6 06:57:03 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 08:57:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] PUPPY TORN PETRONIX BOX! Message-ID: <002001c94017$8ce5b6a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> My puppy tore open my brand new unopened Petronix Electronic Ignition box spilling the contents on the garage floor! And she's bad to chew and carry off things. So I am wondering if I found all the parts. Shown on ebay is a Petronix kit that is for a positive ground car. THIS IS NOT MINE, MY kit is for a negative ground car. Pictured on ebay at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pertronix-Ignitor-Electronic-Ignition-for-Triu mph-TR3_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a3Q7c65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_ trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem190264150701QQitemZ190264150701QQptZMotorsQ 5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Although this ebay pictured item is for a positive ground car, and my polarity is"-", I seem to be missing a part shown. MY puppy torn box still has everything BUT the clear bag shown pictured on the left. It looks like I might be missing a red thing in that bag. But then again, I didn't see any bag torn open after I scolded my puppy! What does the bag contain? What does that red thing look like? It's hard to tell from the untorn complete instructions if I am missing anything. If I am missing that small red thing, what can I do? Does anyone have an extra one? If I need to keep the car positive or negative, I'll temporairly do that! What can I do? Looking again, here is the same pic enlarged for ebay, I can't find that clear bag... http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=866071&image=19098401 7&images=190984017&formats=0&format=0 Mad at my dog, Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Thu Nov 6 07:14:33 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 09:14:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] PUPPY TORN PETRONIX BOX! References: <002001c94017$8ce5b6a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <008301c94019$fe6df970$0300a8c0@Desktop> This only can happen to Paul or some kid in school with his home work ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 8:57 AM Subject: [TR] PUPPY TORN PETRONIX BOX! > My puppy tore open my brand new unopened Petronix Electronic Ignition box > spilling the contents on the garage floor! And she's bad to chew and > carry > off things. So I am wondering if I found all the parts. > > Shown on ebay is a Petronix kit that is for a positive ground car. THIS > IS > NOT MINE, MY kit is for a negative ground car. Pictured on ebay at > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pertronix-Ignitor-Electronic-Ignition-for-Triu > mph-TR3_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a3Q7c65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_ > trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem190264150701QQitemZ190264150701QQptZMotorsQ > 5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories > > Although this ebay pictured item is for a positive ground car, and my > polarity > is"-", > I seem to be missing a part shown. MY puppy torn box still has everything > BUT > the clear bag shown pictured on the left. It looks like I might be > missing a > red thing in that bag. > > But then again, I didn't see any bag torn open after I scolded my puppy! > What > does the bag contain? What does that red thing look like? It's hard to > tell > from the untorn complete instructions if I am missing anything. > If I am missing that small red thing, what can I do? Does anyone have an > extra one? > If I need to keep the car positive or negative, I'll temporairly do that! > What can I do? > > Looking again, here is the same pic enlarged for ebay, I can't find that > clear bag... > http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/showimage.aspx?gid=866071&image=19098401 > 7&images=190984017&formats=0&format=0 > > Mad at my dog, Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. > SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Professional version does not have this message > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From FGFO1 at aol.com Thu Nov 6 07:45:08 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 09:45:08 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle Message-ID: some one lost there coach handle recently and was looking for a replacement. was it Bill? you wanted the round handle version and not the newer profiled version. Anyway try this: _http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-3-HOOD-BONNET-OPENER-VINTAGE-SCCA- RACING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_tr ksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem360104797564QQitemZ360104797564QQptZMotorsQ5fC arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories_ (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-3-HOOD-BONNET-OPENER-VINTAGE-SCCA-RACING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c 65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem360104797564 QQitemZ360104797564QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories) or don't! laugh Frank Fisher **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 6 07:55:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 06:55:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] PUPPY TORN PETRONIX BOX! In-Reply-To: <002001c94017$8ce5b6a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081106145510.JZOQ7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > What does the bag contain? In the eBay photo, the bag contains the mounting screws that hold the unit to the plate; plus the terminals for the wires. I'm reasonably certain the positive ground kit would have included them; tho perhaps not in the bag. Apparently some kits come with the module already mounted, and the terminals already on the wires. http://www.helmarparts.com/Pertronix_Ignitor_Kits_s/330.htm > What does that > red thing look like? There is actually two of them, they are ordinary insulated disconnects. http://tinyurl.com/5bykff Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Nov 6 07:57:32 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 09:57:32 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle Message-ID: In a message dated 11/6/2008 6:46:03 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, FGFO1 at aol.com writes: some one lost there coach handle recently and was looking for a replacement. was it Bill? you wanted the round handle version and not the newer profiled version. Anyway try this: Looks like the end is worn off and its home made. Mike Moore **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From FGFO1 at aol.com Thu Nov 6 07:57:46 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 09:57:46 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 frost plugs Message-ID: Am I just blind or are there no frost plugs on my 1958 TR3 wet liner 4 cylinder engine block? I was just reading about replacing frost plugs and I do not recall seeing any. Frank Fisher TS 41366 L **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From wbeech at flash.net Thu Nov 6 08:26:32 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 08:26:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Is this the original style, as opposed to what is sold new by the Big 3? I remember my TR3A from 1969 had a key that was shaped more like a "P", but have not seen one like it since. My current TR3A cam with two keys, home made, one size for the bonnet and the other for the spare cover. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FGFO1 at aol.com Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 7:45 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle some one lost there coach handle recently and was looking for a replacement. was it Bill? you wanted the round handle version and not the newer profiled version. Anyway try this: _http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-3-HOOD-BONNET-OPENER-VINTAGE-SCC A- RACING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_ tr ksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem360104797564QQitemZ360104797564QQptZMotorsQ5 fC arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories_ (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-3-HOOD-BONNET-OPENER-VINTAGE-SCC A-RACING_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ66Q3a2Q7c 65Q3a10Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem3601047975 64 QQitemZ360104797564QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories) or don't! laugh Frank Fisher **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=htt p://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.0/1770 - Release Date: 11/5/2008 5:36 PM From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Nov 6 08:32:30 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 15:32:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Wheel run out. In-Reply-To: <491230EA.5615.44D926D1@localhost> References: <491230EA.5615.44D926D1@localhost> Message-ID: If you are checking for run out you have to start at the hub. You need to use a dial indicator gauge on a mgnetic stand to do it accurately. If the hub has run out it can be corrected by properly installing the grease seals in most cases. Once the hub is within acceptable tolerance you bolt the wheel on and check it. I found I could grind off some of the metal off the mounting surface on the back of the wheel to correct the run out. Best regards, Tom > From: jimmuller at rcn.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 23:48:58 -0500 > Subject: [TR] thanks all > > ...for the tire advice. One thing some of you wouldn't know about > this car is that it has Cosmic MkII wheels from a Lotus Europa. If > they are bent, I would expect themto be broken too! But I will > check. Soon as I get a round tuit I'll spin them on the car to check > for runout at least. I s'pect I'll end up buying one or more new > ones. > > Thanks again, > > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Get 5 GB of storage with Windows Live Hotmail. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_5gb_1120 08 From fishplate at charter.net Thu Nov 6 08:43:46 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 7:43:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081106104346.0QO67.932901.root@mp14> ---- wbeech wrote: > Is this the original style, as opposed to what is sold new by the Big 3? I > remember my TR3A from 1969 had a key that was shaped more like a "P", but > have not seen one like it since. My 1964 VW bus had a key like that for the engine compartment lid and the fuel filler door. Perhaps that tool is what you had? I recall the sizes were similar... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Nov 6 08:44:56 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 10:44:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Is this the original style, as opposed to what is sold new by the Big 3? I> remember my TR3A from 1969 had a key that was shaped more like a "P", but> have not seen one like it since. My current TR3A cam with two keys, home> made, one size for the bonnet and the other for the spare cover.> > Bill B> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L> '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO Man, that's a long address! Anyways, yes, that is an original style coach key for a TR3. John From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Nov 6 09:00:52 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 08:00:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wheel Straighting References: <110520081742.9809.4911DB1000070FFD0000265122155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <60C83E50FF674BEA8BE915DBA6A1F4A6@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I live in Las Vegas, and was raise there. I have never seen a shop in this city, that specializes in that type of wheel repair. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: Ibsen Dow ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2008 9:42 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel Straighting There may be places in your own area. Where are you? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Ibsen Dow" > Can a stock TR6 wheel be straightened for run out? I have few wheels that are > in good condition visually, but has to much run out for a smooth ride. Is > there shop that specializes in straighten these wheels ? If so where? > Thanks, > Ibsen > 71 TR6 From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Nov 6 09:16:40 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 08:16:40 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't think so Mike ... looks just like the one I had (but rusty) ... any way I bought it, will let you know when it arrives .. >In a message dated 11/6/2008 6:46:03 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, >FGFO1 at aol.com writes: > >some one lost there coach handle recently and was looking for a replacement. >was it Bill? >you wanted the round handle version and not the newer profiled version. >Anyway try this: > > > > >Looks like the end is worn off and its home made. > >Mike Moore -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Nov 6 09:21:57 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 11:21:57 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle Message-ID: In a message dated 11/6/2008 8:18:19 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: I don't think so Mike ... looks just like the one I had (but rusty) ... any way I bought it, will let you know when it arrives .. Bill, I said that because of two things: 1. The cross part of the handle is welded, not cast. I may be wrong, but I have never seen one made that way originally nor do i recall opne coming that way with my car which I have had since 63.. 2. It appears to have a smaller diameter on the tip . The tip needs to seat fully for the bonnet dzus's to engage. I could very well be wrong, but that was my first reaction to it. Best, Mike Moore **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 6 09:23:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 08:23:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wheel Straighting In-Reply-To: <60C83E50FF674BEA8BE915DBA6A1F4A6@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <110520081742.9809.4911DB1000070FFD0000265122155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> <60C83E50FF674BEA8BE915DBA6A1F4A6@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: > I live in Las Vegas, and was raise there. I have never seen a shop in this > city, that specializes in that type of wheel repair. I put "wheel repair las vegas" into Google (without the quotes). I see lots of shops in Vegas that do wheel repair, although they don't mention if that includes stock steel wheels or not. I'd suggest calling a few of them and asking. If they can't do it, likely they know who can. This looks like a good place to start: Mobile Wheel Repair 4005 Paul Robarts Ct Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-877-9200 Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu Nov 6 09:27:04 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 10:27:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle References: Message-ID: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL> My '63 TR3B, purchased in 1965, had one that looked just like this one (602012) in TRF's catalog: http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/60.php?s_wt=1600&s_ht=1200 Here's a similar one on eBay, but it looks too short. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-JAGUAR-XK-DZUS-T-HANDLE-NEW-COACH-KEY_W0QQitemZ190262807203QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item190262807203&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Karl From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 6 09:38:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 08:38:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL> References: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL> Message-ID: <6CF710F6453A47BA9F1EEBDE129A2C80@jdnet.deere.com> > Here's a similar one on eBay, but it looks too short. I've got one of those, it actually works OK even though it is kind of short. The lack of length is especially apparently when removing the spare tire cover, as the handle actually goes under the "toilet seat". If memory serves, it came from JCW many years ago. I suspect the "P" handled thing I got with the latest project TR3 suffers a similar problem, but haven't tried it yet. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 6 09:47:32 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 08:47:32 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 frost plugs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Am I just blind or are there no frost plugs on my 1958 TR3 wet liner 4 > cylinder engine block? You're not blind. "Frost" plugs are actually core plugs, they plug the openings left by the supports for the sand cores that form the cooling jacket when the block is cast. But since the TR3 block has separate cylinder walls (wet liners), the sand cores can be adequately supported through the openings at the top and bottom of the block, eliminating the need for holes on the sides. There are still a few plugged holes, like the oil gallery at the front and the cam bore at the rear. There's also a core plug in the cylinder head. But none on the sides of the cylinder block. Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu Nov 6 09:53:58 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 10:53:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle References: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL> <6CF710F6453A47BA9F1EEBDE129A2C80@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Good point about the deep spare tire key hole and the short eBay tool. Anyway, Roadster Factory's key is half the price of that eBay one and looks to be the correct length. Charles is pretty good about that sort of thing -- I bet he'd warn in the catalog if the key he sells wasn't right. Karl >> Here's a similar one on eBay, but it looks too short. > > I've got one of those, it actually works OK even though it is kind of > short. > The lack of length is especially apparently when removing the spare tire > cover, as the handle actually goes under the "toilet seat". If memory > serves, it came from JCW many years ago. > > I suspect the "P" handled thing I got with the latest project TR3 suffers > a > similar problem, but haven't tried it yet. > > Randall From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Nov 6 11:07:15 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 13:07:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL> References: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL> Message-ID: > My '63 TR3B, purchased in 1965, had one that looked just like this one > (602012) in TRF's catalog:> http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/60.php?s_wt=1600&s_ht=1200> > Here's a similar one on eBay, but it looks too short.> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR2-TR3-JAGUAR-XK-DZUS-T-HANDLE-NEW-CO ACH-KEY_W0QQitemZ190262807203QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Access ories?hash=item190262807203&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A1 2%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318> > > Karl Those sculpted-handle coach keys are some kind of reproduction key. My TR3 race car came with one and it never worked as well as the original type (constant diameter handle) that came with The Blue TR3. Especially in the boot lid and spare tire cover fasteners. John From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu Nov 6 14:40:46 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 15:40:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle References: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL> Message-ID: <13ADF6108AC346D89FC0F7122357B274@KARL> It's not worth an argument, but I'd be willing to bet a bunch that in 1965 there were no reproduction TR3 parts being made (particularly coach keys), since the factory and dealers and distributors still had real parts in stock. My '63 TR3B TSF 130L I bought in August 1965, and my '57 TR3 before that, each had keys that looked just like the one in the Roadster Factory catalog. "Sculpted handle" and all. There are more list members that had these cars from new or nearly new and can bear this out. And they worked fine everywhere they were needed. Karl Those sculpted-handle coach keys are some kind of reproduction key. My TR3 race car came with one and it never worked as well as the original type (constant diameter handle) that came with The Blue TR3. Especially in the boot lid and spare tire cover fasteners. John From kentshrack at yahoo.com Thu Nov 6 15:02:11 2008 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 14:02:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: <13ADF6108AC346D89FC0F7122357B274@KARL> Message-ID: <385667.69428.qm@web57806.mail.re3.yahoo.com> My origianl key, now powder coated,, has the sculptured handle and works GREAT. When I bought the car, the seller wanted to keep it but I didn't let him. I also did no let him keep the NOS temp guage. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 6 15:27:03 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 14:27:03 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: <13ADF6108AC346D89FC0F7122357B274@KARL> References: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL> <13ADF6108AC346D89FC0F7122357B274@KARL> Message-ID: <9C970DDE0A9043DE8E5DF83693217DDA@jdnet.deere.com> > It's not worth an argument, but I'd be willing to bet a bunch that in 1965 > there were no reproduction TR3 parts being made (particularly coach keys), Perhaps not as reproduction TR3 parts; but as noted, TR3s are not the only devices to use such coach keys. ISTR my Dad's 1930 Packard had one, too. Of course, it's also entirely possible that different cars were delivered with different style keys. The folks at Standard/Leyland were more interested in delivering an inexpensive sports car than keeping every detail 'just so'. But the copy of Practical Hints that I checked shows a straight handle, rather than sculpted. http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/technical/owners_manual%20-TR3.pdf (page 26, Fig 20, item 10) Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Nov 6 15:35:35 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 17:35:35 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle Message-ID: <20081106173535.BQX69776@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > My origianl key, now powder coated... Of course! How could we forget??? Those of you who have just re-joined (Geo and whoever else had gone away for a while), you will be happy to know we have NOT discussed powder coating since you've been gone. At least, not if you've been gone for fewer than, say, 6 weeks. Beyond that I claim no reliable memory... -- Jim Muller, not all that sure of the most recent 4 weeks either From Loumetelko at aol.com Thu Nov 6 18:18:16 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 20:18:16 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle Message-ID: My early TR2 came with a coach key very different from the "dogbone" style available from any of our normal suppliers. Mine is a simple 6" tall affair made of 3/8" solid steel. The T top is just 3" wide and is welded to the leg. The bottom of the leg is grinder shaped to be about 3/16" square at the bottom to fit the carriage locks. Don't know if this is home made or original but I have seen the identical coach key with other very early cars. I think we have to realize that Triumph probably used many suppliers for this very mundane non technical tool hence the variations. I personally would be very upset if I were to lose mine. Sad that Geo lost his at an all Triumph show where every one there knew what it was and how rare they are. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happ y-holidays-from-aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Nov 6 18:22:19 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 17:22:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Lou, make that two (2) lost at a show ... in my case Triumphest ... my fault ... not blaming anyone, but bummed out ... however the one I just bought from eBay looks exactly the same as the old one ... just a lot more rusty ... but I can fix that. Don't think I will have it powder coated though ... ;-) > >I personally would be very upset if I were to lose mine. Sad that Geo lost >his at an all Triumph show where every one there knew what it was and how rare >they are. > >Lou Metelko >Auburn, Indiana > -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 6 19:12:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 18:12:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2D8977D29F454DF58A54B361C13F59ED@jdnet.deere.com> > The bottom of the leg is grinder shaped to be about 3/16" > square at the bottom > to fit the carriage locks. Hey, Lou, what does the shaft between the handle and the tapered portion at the bottom look like ? I've got one like that in my collection as well, but I always thought it was a home-made job. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 6 19:27:29 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 21:27:29 EST Subject: [TR] I give up Message-ID: Anyone on the list have a TR3A ammeter (Lucas) that they are willing to part with. I do not need the glass or the bezel, or even the face for that matter if yours is over the hill. It just needs to work. Took mine out cleaned it all up inside and out, reinstalled and it worked fine; for one day. Took it back out, cleaned it all up again; doesn't work at all. Everything else is fine. I have a great mistrust for eBay for an item like this. I truly do not need another one that does not work. It is such a simple gauge I cannot figure out why it does not work. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 6 19:48:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 18:48:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] I give up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > It is such a simple gauge I cannot figure out why it does not work. Almost has to be a broken or 'cold' solder joint, where the loop of heavy wire inside the housing is soldered to the posts. Sorry, I think all the ones I have are the early style with screw terminals instead of quick connects. Hmm, come to think of it, are you sure the quick connects are in good shape? Sometimes they can 'snap' into place, but still be loose enough to not make good contact. Randall From trglory at comcast.net Thu Nov 6 19:37:09 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 21:37:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] I give up In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Dave; Forget the ammeter and get yourself a nice Smiths voltmeter. It gives you better information about the health of your electrical system. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 9:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] I give up Anyone on the list have a TR3A ammeter (Lucas) that they are willing to part with. I do not need the glass or the bezel, or even the face for that matter if yours is over the hill. It just needs to work. Took mine out cleaned it all up inside and out, reinstalled and it worked fine; for one day. Took it back out, cleaned it all up again; doesn't work at all. Everything else is fine. I have a great mistrust for eBay for an item like this. I truly do not need another one that does not work. It is such a simple gauge I cannot figure out why it does not work. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=htt p://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as trglory at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 6 21:47:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 20:47:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] I give up In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081107044742.CHLP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Forget the ammeter and get yourself a nice Smiths voltmeter. > It gives you better information about the health of your > electrical system. As usual, I disagree. Voltmeters and ammeters give complementary information; but IMO an ammeter gives more of it, and more of what you want to know. For example, you start the engine and wait for the voltmeter to rise, but it only comes to somewhere between 12 and 13 (Smiths voltmeters can't be read any more accurately than that). Does that mean the generator is bad? Rev the engine briefly and the voltmeter doesn't move. Now do you know the generator is bad? The answer is no, you don't know. An ammeter would have told you instantly, no need to wait for it. Ok, now the voltmeter rises to somewhere between 13 and 14. Is the battery fully charged yet? Dunno ... Come to a stoplight, voltmeter still reads somewhere between 13 and 14. Is the generator keeping up with the load? Dunno that either. The main advantage of a voltmeter is low cost, and not having all the current go through it (so smaller wires, etc.). BTW, an ammeter will also tell you things like whether you left the lights on and whether your brake lights are working. I can even see the kick when the OD solenoid kicks in. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 7 04:24:28 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 06:24:28 EST Subject: [TR] I give up Message-ID: In a message dated 11/6/2008 9:49:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Hmm, come to think of it, are you sure the quick connects are in good shape? Sometimes they can 'snap' into place, but still be loose enough to not make good contact. Am I incorrect in thinking that if all else works that current is moving through the ammeter OK, the needle just isn't working? BTW I have done a good cleanup job on the connects and they are tight, but since that is so easy I will try it again. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 7 05:49:58 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 07:49:58 EST Subject: [TR] I give up Message-ID: OK. With nothing left to lose, I took the gauge apart and sprayed the inside with carb cleaner and blew it dry. It is working again. Stay tuned. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 7 08:26:07 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 07:26:07 -0800 Subject: [TR] I give up In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081107152607.XICD24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Am I incorrect in thinking that if all else works that > current is moving through the ammeter OK, the needle just > isn't working? That is correct. I was under the impression that when you said the ammeter "wasn't working" that you meant it was not passing power to the rest of the car. Sorry, my mistake. > BTW I have done a good cleanup job on the connects and they > are tight, but since that is so easy I will try it again. If the ignition, headlights, etc. are getting power, then it's not a bad connection at the ammeter. My apologies for the bad information. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Fri Nov 7 08:55:36 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 08:55:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: References: <80498A7C02FE47038BFF40C1B4E240E5@KARL><6CF710F6453A47BA9F1EEBDE129A2C80@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <09A029326E4748589937F12EE8778AD8@sniffer> TRA judging guide says there may be a slight variation in length but all have a straight grip section, "...not dogbone like. Finish is natural metal." I just bought the other one off of eBay, from the same guy, I'll see how good it is when it gets here. ;-) Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Karl Vacek Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 9:54 AM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 coach handle Good point about the deep spare tire key hole and the short eBay tool. Anyway, Roadster Factory's key is half the price of that eBay one and looks to be the correct length. Charles is pretty good about that sort of thing -- I bet he'd warn in the catalog if the key he sells wasn't right. Karl >> Here's a similar one on eBay, but it looks too short. > > I've got one of those, it actually works OK even though it is kind of > short. > The lack of length is especially apparently when removing the spare > tire cover, as the handle actually goes under the "toilet seat". If > memory serves, it came from JCW many years ago. > > I suspect the "P" handled thing I got with the latest project TR3 > suffers a similar problem, but haven't tried it yet. > > Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.0/1771 - Release Date: 11/6/2008 7:58 AM From wbeech at flash.net Fri Nov 7 09:00:40 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 09:00:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 coach handle In-Reply-To: <7532A1AF6C08464AA699F8AF4E68ED9E@KENTECHHP> References: <7532A1AF6C08464AA699F8AF4E68ED9E@KENTECHHP> Message-ID: Thanks for the memories, that is exactly what came with my first '58 when I bought it in 1969. Now I know it was not original to the car. Bill -----Original Message----- From: Peter Kennison [mailto:peterk0219 at verizon.net] Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 5:50 AM To: 'wbeech'; FGFO1 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] TR3 coach handle Bill, I have a P-shaped coach key and made a recent discovery after a car show. The P-shaped key is a pre-67 VW bus "church key". It fits both the spare tire cover as well as the bonnet on my TR3A so I don't need two separate keys. I just purchased a bracket (from a VW dealer on ebay) to hold my key on the driver side kick panel. Check these out - VW "church key" ebay item# 140243024755 and this style item# 260310338330 and bracket item# 140253397721 PeterK -----Original Message----- From: wbeech [mailto:wbeech at flash.net] Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 10:27 AM To: FGFO1 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 coach handle Is this the original style, as opposed to what is sold new by the Big 3? I remember my TR3A from 1969 had a key that was shaped more like a "P", but have not seen one like it since. My current TR3A cam with two keys, home made, one size for the bonnet and the other for the spare cover. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.0/1772 - Release Date: 11/6/2008 8:23 PM From jmerone at rocketmail.com Fri Nov 7 11:01:20 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 10:01:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? Message-ID: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6. It's a wished for combination of increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind the KN minilites. I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to what extreme to take it. A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice right now. Next level up would be a matching red body color. After that is an unlikely contrasting color like yellow. Caliper painters out there - which way did you go? Did you do the rear drums too? Which system and application process? Thanks, Joe Merone CF18928 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Nov 7 11:29:14 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 12:29:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> there is caliper paint available at any flaps. my son went with red because his camaro was red and because brembo's are red. paint will hold in a little more heat, although i doubt that is significant. i think black would look good. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Merone" To: "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:01 PM Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? > I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake > pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6. It's a wished for combination of > increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind > the KN > minilites. > > I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to > what extreme to take it. A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice > right > now. Next level up would be a matching red body color. After that is an > unlikely contrasting color like yellow. > > Caliper painters out there - which > way did you go? Did you do the rear drums too? Which system and > application > process? > > Thanks, > Joe Merone > CF18928 From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 7 11:45:08 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 11:45:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> Message-ID: <9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer> One very important consideration in painting calipers is what kind of brake fluid you have been using. If you have converted to DOT 5, you have to go to extreme measures to get the surface prepared so that the paint does not fisheye. Silicon fluid is very difficult to get off and permeates everything in and around the brake system. Joe C. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 7 11:56:15 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 10:56:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> <9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer> Message-ID: > If you have converted to DOT 5, you have to go to extreme > measures to get > the surface prepared so that the paint does not fisheye. I agree, except the "extreme measures" can be as simple as wiping down with a purpose-made solvent, like Acryli-Clean (PPG DX330) or Prepsol (DuPont). Most solvents (like lacquer thinner) won't touch it, but Acryli-Clean takes it right off. It usually also picks up a lot more rust than you thought was left, too Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Nov 7 12:14:35 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 14:14:35 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] I give up Message-ID: <20081107141435.BQZ71384@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> David Lylis wrote: > With nothing left to lose, I took the gauge apart and > sprayed the inside with carb cleaner and blew it dry. > It is working again. An ammeter is a strange sort of beast. In fact, there is only one kind of meter, a galvanometer, and it responds to current. It is usually built to have as low a resistance as possible, and to expect very low current. A voltmeter is made by putting a known high resistance in series with the galvanometer, and calibrating the markings such that a given voltage produces some particular small current that produces a given deflection on the meter. End of story, more or less. The resistance is chosen to be high so that very little current is carried, thus not burning out the meter and also so that it draws no significant extra current on the circuit it is measuring. An ammeter is a step more complicated. It must carry all the current of the circuit being measured, but it must do so without adding significant resistance so as not to cause a voltage drop. But it can't be just a pure conductor because that would mean there is nothing for a galvanometer to detect. So it needs a voltage drop, but a very tiny one. To that end, it places a known, very low but non-zero resistance wire in series with the circuit. All current going into one side of the meter must pass through that wire to get out the other side. The resistance of that wire produces a small voltage drop from one end of the wire to the other. A voltmeter, i.e. a galvanometer in series with a large resistor, is placed in parallel with that low-resistance wire so as to measuree that voltage drop. The point of all this description is that an ammeter could fail in two ways. If one of the terminals was broken or making a poor connection, or if the low-resistance wire was broken, it would look like an open circuit and pass no current at all. With this failure mode nothing in that part of the wiring would work at all because no current would get through. The other failure mode is that it carries current just fine but doesn't seem to measure anything. This could be because something, perhaps water, is providing a short between the main terminals. It wouldn't do much for the overall conductivity of the meter (which must be as high as possible, but still have some known small resistance), but it might be enough to make the internal galvanometer have no voltage drop to detect. However the same failure mode could be caused by a broken wire within the voltmeter section, i.e. within the galvanometer or its associated series reistor. Or instead of a broken wire it could just be a poor connection in the voltmeter section. Just the act of taking it apart and re-assembling it could fix a problem like this. -- Jim Muller From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 7 12:32:23 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 12:32:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local><9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer> Message-ID: I will have to take exception with that statement. Acryli-clean and similar solvents are absolutely insufficient for removing silicon brake fluid. Ask me how I know this! No, don't, I'll volunteer it anyway. I have a fiberglass bonnet on Tiny Tim that was a victim of the DOT 5 spray from both the brake and clutch circuits. When I went to convert the car from racer to street rod, I ran into the problem. It appears that the extreme measures I am referring to are no less than scrubbing the surface with AJAX or similar abrasive cleanser. Among the things that do not work are: Alcohol, Acrili-Clean, Fin-L-Wash, Lacquer Thinner, turpentine... Need I go on? Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 11:56 AM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] Painting brake calipers? > If you have converted to DOT 5, you have to go to extreme > measures to get > the surface prepared so that the paint does not fisheye. I agree, except the "extreme measures" can be as simple as wiping down with a purpose-made solvent, like Acryli-Clean (PPG DX330) or Prepsol (DuPont). Most solvents (like lacquer thinner) won't touch it, but Acryli-Clean takes it right off. It usually also picks up a lot more rust than you thought was left, too Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 7 12:44:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 11:44:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local><9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <1E386816EF004DE3A29917E6E128D1A5@jdnet.deere.com> > No, don't, I'll volunteer it anyway. I have a fiberglass > bonnet on Tiny Tim Possibly that is true on fiberglass, I've not tried it. It makes sense to me that the silicone will penetrate even microscopic cracks (or wick into exposed fibers), and the Acryli-Clean might not be able to roust it out from a small enough crack (or inside a fiber). But it works fine for me on ordinary cast iron (which is what stock brake calipers are made of) and sheet steel. I've been using DOT 5 for a long time, and only once have I had problems with fisheyes since discovering Acryli-Clean. And that turned out to be contaminated air in the garage, likely caused by my having cleaned the MC area with an air gun earlier the same day. When I redid the panel in the front yard, the fisheyes disappeared. Randall From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Fri Nov 7 12:46:15 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 14:46:15 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Trailer for sale - located in South Carolina Message-ID: <12928563.1226087175629.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FYI - Trailer for sale - located in South Carolina Rick Feibusch Venice, CA -----Forwarded Message----- Subject: Trailer For Sale Hi Rick, I want to get rid of my flat bed trailer that I had custom built for transporting my MG T-series cars and the Triumph TR6 Has a power winch and front shileld to protect the cars from stones etc. Excellent condition throughout. Needs nothing. Located on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina I have moved and have limited space. The trailer has always been kept under cover. $2,500 Geoff Wheatley Phone:843-341-6155 MDGIGEOFFREY at AOL.COM From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 7 12:51:09 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 12:51:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <1E386816EF004DE3A29917E6E128D1A5@jdnet.deere.com> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local><9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer> <1E386816EF004DE3A29917E6E128D1A5@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <2204C8D9FA5348BAAEF55E68ECCC43E2@newcomputer> Not just the glass but I also had the same effect on the engine cowl which is metal. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:45 PM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] Painting brake calipers? > No, don't, I'll volunteer it anyway. I have a fiberglass > bonnet on Tiny Tim Possibly that is true on fiberglass, I've not tried it. It makes sense to me that the silicone will penetrate even microscopic cracks (or wick into exposed fibers), and the Acryli-Clean might not be able to roust it out from a small enough crack (or inside a fiber). But it works fine for me on ordinary cast iron (which is what stock brake calipers are made of) and sheet steel. I've been using DOT 5 for a long time, and only once have I had problems with fisheyes since discovering Acryli-Clean. And that turned out to be contaminated air in the garage, likely caused by my having cleaned the MC area with an air gun earlier the same day. When I redid the panel in the front yard, the fisheyes disappeared. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 7 12:56:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 11:56:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] I give up In-Reply-To: <20081107141435.BQZ71384@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> References: <20081107141435.BQZ71384@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <8F68540A675B4B8DB0EF4A847B6929F8@jdnet.deere.com> > But it can't be just a pure conductor because > that would mean there is nothing for a galvanometer to > detect. Sorry, Jim, but I disagree. Current flowing through a wire always generates a (weak) magnetic field around the wire. The ammeter used on TR2-early TR6 is not a galvanometer at all, but instead a "moving vane" movement that responds to that magnetic field directly. Hence it requires no voltage drop and in fact would still work even if the segment of wire inside the instrument could be made a superconductor with no voltage drop. And it will still indicate (some) with a direct short between the terminals. In fact, that is exactly what I have on my TR3A, so that the 60 amp alternator does not peg the 30 amp ammeter. By choosing the short (3 strands of wire stretched terminal to terminal), it acts as a current divider with the section of wire inside the meter, resulting in only approximately 1/2 the current flowing through it. Thus it reads 30 when the actual system current is 60. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 7 12:58:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 11:58:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <2204C8D9FA5348BAAEF55E68ECCC43E2@newcomputer> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local><9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer><1E386816EF004DE3A29917E6E128D1A5@jdnet.deere.com> <2204C8D9FA5348BAAEF55E68ECCC43E2@newcomputer> Message-ID: <7B7AA98F5CE648FF993D78C8498FC1B4@jdnet.deere.com> > Not just the glass but I also had the same effect on the > engine cowl which > is metal. Well, then all I can say is that it works for me (and for the old body man who told me to use it). Randall From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Fri Nov 7 13:02:57 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 15:02:57 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] RHD non-rack style steering box needed in USA Message-ID: <8532577.1226088177206.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Subject: FW: RHD non-rack style steering box needed in USA FYI - Can you help????? Anybody got at least a lead for this internet friend of mine?? As he says, even a breaker?? Best, Rick Feibusch Venice, CA **************************************************** -----Original Message----- From: Dave Porter [mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com] Subject: FW: RHD non-rack style steering box needed in USA G'day to the listers down under and in the UK or anywhere, I need to find a steering gear box from a RHD Hillman, Vauxhall, or whatever that used a non-rack and pinion box, preferably with out a long column attached. Anyone know of a source, recycler/breaker who has such an animal? Muchos gracias from New Mexico, David frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 Healey BN2 From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 7 13:06:30 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 13:06:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <7B7AA98F5CE648FF993D78C8498FC1B4@jdnet.deere.com> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local><9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer><1E386816EF004DE3A29917E6E128D1A5@jdnet.deere.com><2204C8D9FA5348BAAEF55E68ECCC43E2@newcomputer> <7B7AA98F5CE648FF993D78C8498FC1B4@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Maybe you were lucky, or perhaps your contamination was not as severe as mine. But the real issue here is that it is a lot easier to go to extra lengths beforehand to ensure the surface is devoid of the silicon residue than to have to remove the paint and start over. And it is not just me, I have heard many other horror stories from bodymen about the issue. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:58 PM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] Painting brake calipers? > Not just the glass but I also had the same effect on the > engine cowl which > is metal. Well, then all I can say is that it works for me (and for the old body man who told me to use it). Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Nov 7 14:00:45 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 16:00:45 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] I give up Message-ID: <20081107160045.BQZ96756@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Randall wrote: > Sorry, Jim, but I disagree. Excellent! (I figured that would happen. :-) Well, in truth I thought about that sort of meter, but wasn't sure if Smiths had made them that way or not. I've never had occasion to take an automotive ammeter apart. So I took a leap and described how a tradition current-detection circuit would be designed. I would think that sort of meter less consistent across manufacturing samples, but maybe that's the whole point, it doesn't have to be all that accurate. And of course, AC is different too. -- Jim M From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Nov 7 14:03:40 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 16:03:40 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1DB6CF457BA24C4CAFC61C172308233A@BOBSNEWPC> Hey Joe, I went with the POR-15 caliper kit (http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=CK&dept=11) Being a complete kit, it included the cleaner, prep solution, POR-15 paint and the caliper paint. At first I wasn't happy with the yellow paint but once the calipers were on the car and behind the allow wheels, you never notice the "imperfections" that you do when they're in your hand and 6" from your eyes. After a season of driving on them they still look great. I know other guys that have used DupliColor with very good results too. If you decide you want to go with Yellow, let me know before you buy anything. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Merone Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 1:01 PM To: 6 Pack list; Triumph List Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers? I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6. It's a wished for combination of increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind the KN minilites. I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to what extreme to take it. A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice right now. Next level up would be a matching red body color. After that is an unlikely contrasting color like yellow. Caliper painters out there - which way did you go? Did you do the rear drums too? Which system and application process? Thanks, Joe Merone CF18928 You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 7 15:59:57 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 17:59:57 EST Subject: [TR] I give up Message-ID: My ammeter has an oval loop of (maybe) 10 gauge solid wire connected to two posts that then go to spade connectors in the back. Above that is a little "butterfly" of very thin steel that rotates on a pin to which is attached the indicator needle. Quite obviously by some process that is beyond my knowledge, as current flows through the heavy wire a magnetic field is set up that varies based upon the load being greater or less than the supply. Therefore the little butterfly wings are attracted (or repelled?) by one end of the oval loop or the other making the needle indicate + or - on the gauge. How am I doing? I think that there was probably a film of crap on the oval loop and the butterfly that interrupted the working of the gauge. The last time I "fixed" it it worked for a day. As I said before, stay tuned. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 7 16:11:54 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 18:11:54 EST Subject: [TR] I give up Message-ID: Fuggetaboutit! It isn't working again. I am going to NAPA and buy one so I have a temporary until I can find another Lucas. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Nov 7 16:19:30 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 23:19:30 -0000 Subject: [TR] Etiquette References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net><490D374C.8070208@comcast.net> <40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <02b201c9412f$4a0acd20$0201a8c0@Bevan> Andrew (and others) - a true story. Some years back a very good friend of mine had a lady friend. The relationship wasn't going too well and he tried several times to bring things to a close, without success. Whenever he attempted to do this, there were tantrums and tears and lots of grief. One day my friend decided that things really had to finish and he decided to take the lady out in his 1936 Standard 10 and to choose what he thought would be the right moment to put down a firm foot on the relationship. As luck (or misfortune) would have it, his delightful car was admired by the driver of another car as they passed slowly in opposing directions in a small town. To the comment of "nice old car" my friend replied, "thanks. 1936 model" and thumbing towards his passenger added jokingly "same year as her!" The fact she was born about 20 years later didn't go down too well. Needless to say, the relationship ended - for ever - in the middle of Pershore High Street and the hospital released him from the Observation Ward three days later. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 12:24 PM Subject: [TR] Etiquette > What is the accepted etiquette when one is out for a drive with one's wife > and a passing car yells "She's a beauty!" ? > > Reply "Thanks, we love our Triumphs", or "Thanks, we've been married a long > time" ? > > In my case, I can lie about the year of the car and reply "Thanks - she's in > great shape for a 1958 model", but it never sounds very convincing........ > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Nov 7 17:18:23 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 19:18:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Joe, I used a ceramic paint kit I bought at one of the big box auto parts stores. It wasn't Pep Boys or Autozone but I can't think of the name now to save me. It turned out pretty good but I had ended up splitting the calipers and sand blasting them before paint and rebuild. If you live in Cincinnati and you have the time, I have a blast cabinet in my garage you can use to get them brand new looking if you want to use it. I have glass beads and aluminum oxide. I can't report on how well the paint holds up to use as I am about a year or so away from driving the car. I chose red.. If you go to my Triumph website http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a and click on Brakes in the Nav side bar, there is a link to the front caliper rebuild that shows the paint. I have to say they really look sharp! Black would be nice too. And yes, I flushed the out and used the air compressor to blow out all passages before rebuilding. I also wiped the insides down with lacquer thinner, blew them dry, then wiped down the insides with brake fluid. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A IRS http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From auprichard at comcast.net Fri Nov 7 17:33:04 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 19:33:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: <02b201c9412f$4a0acd20$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net><490D374C.8070208@comcast.net> <40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1> <02b201c9412f$4a0acd20$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <9C41498A765A46E39ECF16A42F65C547@DCH6RFC1> Makes one wonder what the replies would be to the question, "What have YOU done in a Triumph ?" I doubt that breaking up with a date would win the competition, but then some answers might be too much for my puritanical upbringing........ Andrew -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com] Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 6:20 PM To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Etiquette Andrew (and others) - a true story. Some years back a very good friend of mine had a lady friend. The relationship wasn't going too well and he tried several times to bring things to a close, without success. Whenever he attempted to do this, there were tantrums and tears and lots of grief. One day my friend decided that things really had to finish and he decided to take the lady out in his 1936 Standard 10 and to choose what he thought would be the right moment to put down a firm foot on the relationship. As luck (or misfortune) would have it, his delightful car was admired by the driver of another car as they passed slowly in opposing directions in a small town. To the comment of "nice old car" my friend replied, "thanks. 1936 model" and thumbing towards his passenger added jokingly "same year as her!" The fact she was born about 20 years later didn't go down too well. Needless to say, the relationship ended - for ever - in the middle of Pershore High Street and the hospital released him from the Observation Ward three days later. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 12:24 PM Subject: [TR] Etiquette > What is the accepted etiquette when one is out for a drive with one's wife > and a passing car yells "She's a beauty!" ? > > Reply "Thanks, we love our Triumphs", or "Thanks, we've been married a long > time" ? > > In my case, I can lie about the year of the car and reply "Thanks - she's in > great shape for a 1958 model", but it never sounds very convincing........ > > Andrew Uprichard > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Nov 7 18:36:24 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 20:36:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200811072036.24698.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Joe and list, I just finished painting my 6 calipers with the kit from Eastwood. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=558&itemType=PRODUCT The kit has a small can of paint, hardener, brush and a can of spray cleaner. I also bead blasted the calipers, sprayed the cleaner, let dry and applied the paint with the supplied brush. Let dry about 2 hours and re-applied another coat. Had some paint left over so I did the rear shocks. I used silver and they came out real nice. The next morning they were dry and the paint seemed quite hard. It will be quite some time before I drive the car but they do look nice. I plan on using dot 5 fluid. Bob From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Nov 7 18:39:12 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 19:39:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] Etiquette References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net><490D374C.8070208@comcast.net><40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1><02b201c9412f$4a0acd20$0201a8c0@Bevan> <9C41498A765A46E39ECF16A42F65C547@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <7101AD0292054FCDBBCA972359A52770@KARL> Were you looking for responses like "Double dated in a TR3 (with the top up)" ? Or "Narrowly escaped parenthood in a TR6" ?? Karl > Makes one wonder what the replies would be to the question, "What have YOU > done in a Triumph ?" I doubt that breaking up with a date would win the > competition, but then some answers might be too much for my puritanical > upbringing........ > > Andrew From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 7 18:55:28 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 17:55:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: <9C41498A765A46E39ECF16A42F65C547@DCH6RFC1> References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net><490D374C.8070208@comcast.net><40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1><02b201c9412f$4a0acd20$0201a8c0@Bevan> <9C41498A765A46E39ECF16A42F65C547@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: > Makes one wonder what the replies would be to the question, > "What have YOU > done in a Triumph ?" I lost a potential girlfriend that way once, without having to say a word. She had beautiful brown hair down to her waist, and I didn't think to tell her to put it in a bun or something before inviting her out for a ride. Took her many hours of brushing to get all the tangles out! And she basically wouldn't give me the time of day after that. Randall From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Nov 7 19:13:17 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2008 21:13:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> Hi Joe, I just used some Dupli-color hi-temp paint and painted mine red.? The paint has stood up quite nicely though there is always brake dust to dull the look.? You can see the before and after pictures at the triumphowners web site listed below.? The prep work took most of the time.? The paint work was pretty simple.? Sorry, I lost the close-up pics of the calipers on the car with my KN wheels when my hard drive bit the dust. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Joe Merone To: 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net>; Triumph List Sent: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 1:01 pm Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers? I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6. It's a wished for combination of increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind the KN minilites. I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to what extreme to take it. A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice right now. Next level up would be a matching red body color. After that is an unlikely contrasting color like yellow. Caliper painters out there - which way did you go? Did you do the rear drums too? Which system and application process? Thanks, Joe Merone CF18928 From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Nov 7 19:52:14 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 21:52:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] Etiquette References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net><490D374C.8070208@comcast.net><40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1><02b201c9412f$4a0acd20$0201a8c0@Bevan><9C41498A765A46E39ECF16A42F65C547@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <009b01c9414d$01b5d1f0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Randall...are you shore you lost ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" Cc: Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 8:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Etiquette >> Makes one wonder what the replies would be to the question, >> "What have YOU >> done in a Triumph ?" > > I lost a potential girlfriend that way once, without having to say a word. > She had beautiful brown hair down to her waist, and I didn't think to tell > her to put it in a bun or something before inviting her out for a ride. > Took her many hours of brushing to get all the tangles out! And she > basically wouldn't give me the time of day after that. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 7 20:14:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 19:14:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] I give up In-Reply-To: <20081107160045.BQZ96756@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Message-ID: <20081108031412.DGAX22492.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I would think that sort of meter less > consistent across manufacturing samples, but maybe that's the > whole point, it doesn't have to be all that accurate. Exactly. Hard to notice even a 10% error (3 amps out of 30). But now that I think about it, they could be calibrated by bending the wire loop a bit closer or farther away from the vane movement. Seems unlikely they would bother, but maybe ... Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Nov 7 20:27:13 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 22:27:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan, The POR-15 kit includes a cleaner and a prep solution. They did a great job of getting the calipers ready for paint. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 9:37 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers? What are people doing to prep the calipers for painting ?. Is it possible to media blast them without having to take them apart to get all of the blast media out ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 9:13 PM To: jmerone at rocketmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers? Hi Joe, I just used some Dupli-color hi-temp paint and painted mine red.? The paint has stood up quite nicely though there is always brake dust to dull the look.? You can see the before and after pictures at the triumphowners web site listed below.? The prep work took most of the time.? The paint work was pretty simple.? Sorry, I lost the close-up pics of the calipers on the car with my KN wheels when my hard drive bit the dust. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Nov 7 20:41:59 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2008 22:41:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8CB0F6B16D0AEE6-A34-29DE@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> Stan, Where do I start?? I did take mine apart, with no problems at all.? I used a bench grinder with a wire brush attached, as well as multiple coats of naval jelly, x-acto knives, small screwdrivers and many other implements I cant remember.? But I am certain there was no rust left when I finished.? I just used tape, and small pieces of cloth to cover and fill holes before painting.? I cant remember exactly what I used for final paint prep.? But it seems to have worked well, whatever it was. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 9:36 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers? What are people doing to prep the calipers for painting ?. Is it possible to media blast them without having to take them apart to get all of the blast media out ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 9:13 PM To: jmerone at rocketmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers? Hi Joe, I just used some Dupli-color hi-temp paint and painted mine red.? The paint has stood up quite nicely though there is always brake dust to dull the look.? You can see the before and after pictures at the triumphowners web site listed below.? The prep work took most of the time.? The paint work was pretty simple.? Sorry, I lost the close-up pics of the calipers on the car with my KN wheels when my hard drive bit the dust. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Fri Nov 7 20:47:04 2008 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Denman Mike) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 19:47:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] I give up In-Reply-To: <20081108031412.DGAX22492.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081108031412.DGAX22492.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <9FED9D6C-A133-4454-A2E1-968B197525B4@sbcglobal.net> Couldn't the wire be nothing more than a shunt. A shunt, for those not familiar with the term as used electrically, is used to reduce the amperage through the gage. For example, I have a 65 amp alternator on my Marcos and a 30 amp ammeter gage. By using a shunt, I am still able to use the 30 amp ammeter. The gage needle (with the shunt installed) moves less, of course, with a given change in discharge/charge. Mike Denman On Nov 7, 2008, at 7:14 PM, Randall wrote: >> I would think that sort of meter less >> consistent across manufacturing samples, but maybe that's the >> whole point, it doesn't have to be all that accurate. > > Exactly. Hard to notice even a 10% error (3 amps out of 30). > > But now that I think about it, they could be calibrated by bending > the wire > loop a bit closer or farther away from the vane movement. Seems > unlikely > they would bother, but maybe ... > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From allegrorover at mac.com Fri Nov 7 21:30:49 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2008 23:30:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] caliper color Message-ID: <4A4450E8-8CB0-409F-9BD6-D13BCB0B210E@mac.com> List, What I did was to powder coat my calipers, it should last forever and the bright red is easy to clean while washing the wire wheels. I have used the 2 part coating for calipers in the past and it works well also. During my restoration I had many, many parts powder coated, I took that guidance from "FT". Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Nov 7 22:03:36 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 00:03:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] I give up In-Reply-To: <9FED9D6C-A133-4454-A2E1-968B197525B4@sbcglobal.net> References: <20081108031412.DGAX22492.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4914D758.11942.4F333CB1@localhost> On 7 Nov 2008 at 19:47, Denman Mike wrote: > Couldn't the wire be nothing more than a shunt. A shunt, for those not > familiar with the term as used electrically, is used to reduce the > amperage through the gage. Well, yes. That's exactly what I described the first time, a large wire that carries most of the current, with a much lower current bypassing the shunt and going through whatever sort of gauge is desired. Another term would be voltaqge divider, an array of resistors to pre-determine how much current goes through which path and thus what voltage each will see. The difference as you describe it is that the shunt would be to reduce a current or voltage by some moderate fraction, in your case 1/2, which is to say to split current across two different paths by 50/50. With a conventional current- detect circuit it might be to divide currents by 99% and 1%. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Nov 7 22:04:32 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 00:04:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters Message-ID: In view of all the recent discussions on these meters, I was wondering if it's difficult, or requires a lot of electrical expertise to convert from a voltmeter (as in a TR6) to an ammeter? Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 7 22:59:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 21:59:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > In view of all the recent discussions on these meters, I was > wondering if it's difficult, or requires a lot of electrical > expertise to convert from a voltmeter (as in a TR6) to an ammeter? It's not trivial, but not terribly difficult either. Basically you have to divide the electrical system into the battery and starter on one side (plus perhaps the horns and the sense wire to the alternator), and everything else on the other side; then connect the ammeter between them. Assuming this is a 73 or later TR6 (earlier cars had ammeters), you can just remove 3 of the 4 brown wires that go to the tie point in the battery cable; join them together somehow (perhaps with one of these: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml ) then run a pair of heavy wires (10 AWG will do, but I'd use 8) from the old tie point and the new tie point to the ammeter. Randall From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Nov 7 23:26:48 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 01:26:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters References: <20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <69D7D212B44B4FFD83EF49EAA3CC1CAC@Toms> Thanks Randall, for the tutorial and the connector web site. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'TR List'" Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 12:59 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters >> In view of all the recent discussions on these meters, I was >> wondering if it's difficult, or requires a lot of electrical >> expertise to convert from a voltmeter (as in a TR6) to an ammeter? > > It's not trivial, but not terribly difficult either. Basically you have > to > divide the electrical system into the battery and starter on one side > (plus > perhaps the horns and the sense wire to the alternator), and everything > else > on the other side; then connect the ammeter between them. > > Assuming this is a 73 or later TR6 (earlier cars had ammeters), you can > just > remove 3 of the 4 brown wires that go to the tie point in the battery > cable; > join them together somehow (perhaps with one of these: > http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml ) then run a pair of heavy > wires (10 AWG will do, but I'd use 8) from the old tie point and the new > tie > point to the ammeter. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ From coefront at shaw.ca Sat Nov 8 05:16:05 2008 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 05:16:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tires Message-ID: For my TR8, what's the experience out there for 15" wheel and tire size set up. I'm concerned about tire fouling the fender. Thanks. Mike coefront at shaw.ca From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 8 06:08:47 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 08:08:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters In-Reply-To: <20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7FF05A3325A9428D8891C5D526D28C10@BOBSNEWPC> Mad Electrical http://www.madelectrical.com/ that Randall links to is a "must have" bookmark for all automotive things electrical e.g. on their site is a tab called Electrical Tech. Behind it you'll find a great tutorial on the various Delco alternators that we use as an upgrade as well as things like: Brighter Headlights, 1-wire vs 3-wire alternators etc. Dan Masters turned me on to this site many years ago. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 12:59 AM To: 'TR List' Subject: Re: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters > In view of all the recent discussions on these meters, I was wondering > if it's difficult, or requires a lot of electrical expertise to > convert from a voltmeter (as in a TR6) to an ammeter? It's not trivial, but not terribly difficult either. Basically you have to divide the electrical system into the battery and starter on one side (plus perhaps the horns and the sense wire to the alternator), and everything else on the other side; then connect the ammeter between them. Assuming this is a 73 or later TR6 (earlier cars had ammeters), you can just remove 3 of the 4 brown wires that go to the tie point in the battery cable; join them together somehow (perhaps with one of these: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml ) then run a pair of heavy wires (10 AWG will do, but I'd use 8) from the old tie point and the new tie point to the ammeter. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From trstreep at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 8 07:21:23 2008 From: trstreep at sbcglobal.net (Bob Streepy) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 08:21:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets available on the world wide web Message-ID: Triumphistae- Due to overwhelming demand, (ok, maybe not overwhelming, but at least for the twenty so list members who requested them after they sold out,) the ISOA webmaster, Tim Buja, has added the entire Spinal Tappets CD, Tappetstry, to our club's website. Click on: http://www.snic-braaapp.org/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=2 . Click on the bold type of each song title and the tunes should load onto I-Tunes or Windows Media Player. Bob Streepy, ISOA Sec'y 1971 TR6 - Lucille - the Wonder Car [i.e. I wonder if anybody would give 20 cents on the dollar for what I've got tied up in this thing] 1960 TR3A Casper - not the world's nicest TR3, just the most expensive From tony at tonydrews.com Sat Nov 8 08:07:36 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 09:07:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] caliper color In-Reply-To: <4A4450E8-8CB0-409F-9BD6-D13BCB0B210E@mac.com> References: <4A4450E8-8CB0-409F-9BD6-D13BCB0B210E@mac.com> Message-ID: <20081108150747.5698818767E@autox.team.net> Be careful with this - if you leave the caliper assembled, it's possible that the heat from the powder coating process will hurt the seal between the caliper halves and you'll have leaky calipers. - Tony Drews >What I did was to powder coat my calipers, it should last forever and >the bright red is easy to clean while washing the wire wheels. From thebujas at comcast.net Sat Nov 8 08:14:16 2008 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 09:14:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets available on the world wide web In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Bob Streepy (the lyrical tappet) wrote > Click on: > http://www.snic-braaapp.org/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=2 Please don't play these tracks directly from the ISOA website. Instead, save them to your hard drive first to minimize the bandwidth that would otherwise be required for repeated downloads from the website. If you're using Firefox, right-click on each link and select "Save Link As" If you're using Internet Explorer, right-click on each link and select "Save Target As" If we approach our monthly bandwidth limits, we'll have to consider taking the tracks off the website. FYI - the Tappestry CD contained the 5 new tracks first heard at NATC 2008 as well as the five that made their debut at VTR 2005. I've also added the cover art in .pdf format and a photo of the band in .jpg format. Tim Buja - ISOA Webmaster - Rockford, IL From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Nov 8 09:03:57 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 16:03:57 -0000 Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets available on the world wide web References: Message-ID: <035501c941bb$9cae53d0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Great tracks, though I haven't yet played all of them. This is surely a 'must have' CD for all Triumph Clubs around the world who speak English!!!!! Are the Tappets still in business? If so, any chance of another song along the lines of "When my Herald (or) Spitfire (or) Sports 6 suddenly breaks away"? I used to have a vinyl album years ago called 'Shut Down' in which the Beach Boys were a prominent group and my view is the rythm of the "Shut Down" track would be ideal for the suggested song. Jonmac From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sat Nov 8 09:14:14 2008 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 11:14:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] tuning webers Message-ID: <4915BAD6.2050806@earthlink.net> Folks, I need some help setting up my triple webers on my TR250. I have a stumble in the mid rpm range, 1000 rpm to 2500 rpm. It idles good and it runs well above 2500 rpm. I think I'm idling on the idle jets and not on the progression circuits. It seems to me that the problem is with the progression circuits or with the accelerator pumps. I'm thinking accelerator pumps. Any idea on what to try? Thanks, David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L From wmpless at iprimus.ca Sat Nov 8 09:53:36 2008 From: wmpless at iprimus.ca (Wiard Pless) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 11:53:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] anti-run on valve Message-ID: <4915C410.2020004@iprimus.ca> hi, Moss Europe is offering an anti-run on valve for a MGB. For details pls. see www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=7048&SortOrder=1 Wondering whether anybody bought this valve and if yes, what the experience is. For sure, could use one the 4-cyl. TR motor. Wiard From flashtr3 at cox.net Sat Nov 8 10:55:08 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 09:55:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local><9E17E8D47B5E445EB8706B8982C741D0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <78D9E418C91D4C87B887DC3D5BE81796@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I just finished doing my calipers & rear brake drums with a popular brake caliper paint system you get from the local parts store. I used a degreaser cleaner to remove the any grease or contaminates first, then I used "prep sol" to remove any silicon or dot 5 that may have gotten the calipers. To prevent "fish eyes" you must have two clean rags. One is for the application of the "prep sol", and the other to wipe off. That way you don't re-contaminate the paint surface. I used the gloss black finish and brush it on . The flow characteristics of this finish is excellent, so that it looks likes like it has been "powder coated". I had enough material left over after applying with 2 coats on the drums & 3 coats on the calipers, that I was able to paint the tie rod links as well. Ibsen Dow '59 TR3 '71 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Curry To: 'Randall' ; 'Triumph List' Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 11:32 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Painting brake calipers? I will have to take exception with that statement. Acryli-clean and similar solvents are absolutely insufficient for removing silicon brake fluid. Ask me how I know this! No, don't, I'll volunteer it anyway. I have a fiberglass bonnet on Tiny Tim that was a victim of the DOT 5 spray from both the brake and clutch circuits. When I went to convert the car from racer to street rod, I ran into the problem. It appears that the extreme measures I am referring to are no less than scrubbing the surface with AJAX or similar abrasive cleanser. Among the things that do not work are: Alcohol, Acrili-Clean, Fin-L-Wash, Lacquer Thinner, turpentine... Need I go on? Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 11:56 AM To: 'Triumph List' Subject: Re: [TR] Painting brake calipers? > If you have converted to DOT 5, you have to go to extreme > measures to get > the surface prepared so that the paint does not fisheye. I agree, except the "extreme measures" can be as simple as wiping down with a purpose-made solvent, like Acryli-Clean (PPG DX330) or Prepsol (DuPont). Most solvents (like lacquer thinner) won't touch it, but Acryli-Clean takes it right off. It usually also picks up a lot more rust than you thought was left, too Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From flashtr3 at cox.net Sat Nov 8 11:21:16 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 10:21:16 -0800 Subject: [TR] Wheel Straighting References: <110520081742.9809.4911DB1000070FFD0000265122155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><60C83E50FF674BEA8BE915DBA6A1F4A6@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <9E603DC4340342DFB027E432C24E1DB9@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I guess our little town that I grew up in has grown to a big city. In the early years, specialty shops like wheel repairs & straightening were "far and few between". Thanks Randall. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 8:23 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel Straighting > I live in Las Vegas, and was raise there. I have never seen a shop in this > city, that specializes in that type of wheel repair. I put "wheel repair las vegas" into Google (without the quotes). I see lots of shops in Vegas that do wheel repair, although they don't mention if that includes stock steel wheels or not. I'd suggest calling a few of them and asking. If they can't do it, likely they know who can. This looks like a good place to start: Mobile Wheel Repair 4005 Paul Robarts Ct Las Vegas, NV 89102 702-877-9200 Randall _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sat Nov 8 16:07:30 2008 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 18:07:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] tuning webers In-Reply-To: <4915BAD6.2050806@earthlink.net> References: <4915BAD6.2050806@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <49161BB2.1030604@earthlink.net> Folks, Thanks for your help. Here's what I'm running: Three 40DCOE's, Idle: 65F8 Air Corrector: 145 Emulsion: F11 Main: 125 Accel Pump Jet: 40 Aux Venturi: 45 Choke: 30mm The motor is reasonably high performance. A lot of work was done porting the intake runners and the head. It's dyno-ed at 170hp. I'm far from Weber expert. I'll try to get my hands on some tutorial, but I don't really know where to start. It does idle good, so maybe we can assume that the idle jets and the progression circuits are good. It runs great above 3000rpm's so the main's are probably fine. My first inclination is accelerator pumps. Thanks for your help. David Brady '68 TR250 David Brady wrote: > Folks, > > I need some help setting up my triple webers on my TR250. > I have a stumble in the mid rpm range, 1000 rpm to 2500 > rpm. It idles good and it runs well above 2500 rpm. I > think I'm idling on the idle jets and not on the progression > circuits. It seems to me that the problem is with the progression > circuits or with the accelerator pumps. I'm thinking accelerator > pumps. Any idea on what to try? > > Thanks, > David Brady > '68 TR250, CD8124L From dmb993 at earthlink.net Sat Nov 8 16:31:25 2008 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 18:31:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] tuning webers In-Reply-To: <49161BB2.1030604@earthlink.net> References: <4915BAD6.2050806@earthlink.net> <49161BB2.1030604@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4916214D.4030102@earthlink.net> I'm also running short, 12mm air horns and an electric fuel with a pressure regulator set at 3psi and .375" fuel lines. David Brady '68 TR250 CD8124L David Brady wrote: > Folks, > > Thanks for your help. Here's what I'm running: > > Three 40DCOE's, > Idle: 65F8 > Air Corrector: 145 > Emulsion: F11 > Main: 125 > Accel Pump Jet: 40 > Aux Venturi: 45 > Choke: 30mm > > The motor is reasonably high performance. A lot of > work was done porting the intake runners and the head. > It's dyno-ed at 170hp. > > I'm far from Weber expert. I'll try to get my hands on some > tutorial, but I don't really know where to start. It does idle > good, so maybe we can assume that the idle jets and the > progression circuits are good. It runs great above 3000rpm's > so the main's are probably fine. My first inclination is accelerator > pumps. Thanks for your help. > > David Brady > '68 TR250 > > > David Brady wrote: >> Folks, >> >> I need some help setting up my triple webers on my TR250. >> I have a stumble in the mid rpm range, 1000 rpm to 2500 >> rpm. It idles good and it runs well above 2500 rpm. I >> think I'm idling on the idle jets and not on the progression >> circuits. It seems to me that the problem is with the progression >> circuits or with the accelerator pumps. I'm thinking accelerator >> pumps. Any idea on what to try? >> >> Thanks, >> David Brady >> '68 TR250, CD8124L From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Nov 8 20:34:39 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 22:34:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] Wheel Straighting In-Reply-To: <9E603DC4340342DFB027E432C24E1DB9@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <491613FF.5742.540829C5@localhost> On 8 Nov 2008 at 10:21, Ibsen Dow wrote: > I guess our little town that I grew up in has grown to a big city. In the > early years, specialty shops like wheel repairs & straightening were "far and > few between". Thanks Randall. I can't speak for LasVegas but it turns out there's a highly recommended wheel-straightening shop right here in Waltham. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Sat Nov 8 20:53:30 2008 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 22:53:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] Etiquette In-Reply-To: <009b01c9414d$01b5d1f0$0300a8c0@Desktop> References: <01fb01c93c8f$08171490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <490D36A5.1080802@comcast.net> <490D374C.8070208@comcast.net> <40AF5CD85CAB485EB0B3C5DCE03BB191@DCH6RFC1> <02b201c9412f$4a0acd20$0201a8c0@Bevan> <9C41498A765A46E39ECF16A42F65C547@DCH6RFC1> <009b01c9414d$01b5d1f0$0300a8c0@Desktop> Message-ID: <6fa72a770811081953q13a6dfa0k158a565e4366ef80@mail.gmail.com> my story - I can't discuss - but ended up with a severly bent luggage rack... On Fri, Nov 7, 2008 at 9:52 PM, Craig wrote: > Randall...are you shore you lost > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" > Cc: > Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 8:55 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Etiquette > > > Makes one wonder what the replies would be to the question, >>> "What have YOU >>> done in a Triumph ?" >>> >> >> I lost a potential girlfriend that way once, without having to say a word. >> She had beautiful brown hair down to her waist, and I didn't think to tell >> her to put it in a bun or something before inviting her out for a ride. >> Took her many hours of brushing to get all the tangles out! And she >> basically wouldn't give me the time of day after that. >> >> Randall >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ccsimonsen at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Nov 8 21:14:08 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 08 Nov 2008 23:14:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters References: <20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <7FF05A3325A9428D8891C5D526D28C10@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: You're right Bob. I scanned thru the various headings and bookmarked that site right away. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "'TR List'" Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 8:08 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters > Mad Electrical http://www.madelectrical.com/ that Randall links to is a > "must have" bookmark for all automotive things electrical e.g. on their > site > is a tab called Electrical Tech. Behind it you'll find a great tutorial on > the various Delco alternators that we use as an upgrade as well as things > like: Brighter Headlights, 1-wire vs 3-wire alternators etc. Dan Masters > turned me on to this site many years ago. > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From banc8004 at comcast.net Sun Nov 9 07:43:14 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2008 14:43:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumph Radio question Message-ID: <110920081443.11561.4916F7020009CA5D00002D292207300793CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> I have read from this list that radios from earlier Triumph cars (and others of that time) have a ground selector to set the radio for operation in pos. or neg. ground cars. I have an old Triumph radio (two knobs, 5 push buttons). It is branded Triumph and has the 'book' logo in the display . The display has a 5 to 16 scale, and is AM, I assume. It has is no ground selector. Written on the case: 4TBTR 009342 Is it safe to assume, as there is no alternative ground setting option, that this radio is for a positive-ground car? It has three wires. One black, with a bullet connector; two speaker wires Brown and Brown/Yellow. I want to test the radio to see if it works, and if so, find it a good home. It is in surprisingly good condition, compared to the junk I've seen on ebay. Can anyone confirm this is positive ground? Cheers, Brian From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 9 09:18:08 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 11:18:08 EST Subject: [TR] Apparent vapor lock Message-ID: This is something that has happened a few times since this car has been on the road and I think I have established a pattern. The car starts well and runs well, and if shut off for, lets say, an hour starts well and runs well again. If shut off for a short period of time, enough so that the temp gauge rises because of no circulation/fan, It starts well, but goes through periods of rough running, almost like a plug wire is disconnected (its not that). I can get it to clear, but intermittently returns to rough running. I have not continued to drive to see if it permanently clears when the temp gets back down to 185, as I usually go straight home. Every time this has happened I have been close to home. The coil is hot but not so that I can't touch it, although I would not want to caress it. It does not seem unusual. It seems to be related to the elevated motor temperature from being shut off. Any other suggestions? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 9 09:32:56 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2008 11:32:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] Apparent vapor lock In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4916CA68.10618.CC27EA@localhost> On 9 Nov 2008 at 11:18, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > Any other suggestions? Perhaps your gas tank, uh, I mean petrol tank isn't vent sufficiently and is developing a vacuum? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com Sun Nov 9 10:50:29 2008 From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 12:50:29 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] Ted Schumacher Oil Line Message-ID: <16935956.1226253029829.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Just wanted to comment on the Ted Schumacher oil line. It is a nice well built easy to install piece of equipment. I had been concerned for some time about the possibility of my 34 year old line failing. I read recent post that confirmed my concern. When I learned of Ted's stainless steel braided replacement, I ordered it. It is now installed and my concern eliminated. If any others have this concern I strongly recommend Ted's reasonably priced replacement oil line. Incidentally, I do not know Ted. This is the first purchase I have made from him and I live in Georgia, whereas, I believe Ted is located in Ohio. My promotion is based on the value of the equipment as it relates to others with this concern only. Doug Nelson 74 TR6 Washington, GA ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Nov 9 11:01:08 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 13:01:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ted Schumacher Oil Line In-Reply-To: <16935956.1226253029829.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <16935956.1226253029829.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <0D519FF3C19245B7AE1EDDD6E46500F0@BOBSNEWPC> Doug, The same can be said for all of the stuff that Ted sells. It's all high quality and he has way more then just what's posted on his site. So if you don't see a part, just ask. Last winter I got everything from rebuilt front calipers, SS brake lines and a rebuilt servo to all the small stuff that I'd usually get from Moss or TRF. In every case Ted had the best price. NFI.....and it only took me 12 years to buy something from him :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dmnlaw Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 12:50 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Ted Schumacher Oil Line Just wanted to comment on the Ted Schumacher oil line. It is a nice well built easy to install piece of equipment. I had been concerned for some time about the possibility of my 34 year old line failing. I read recent post that confirmed my concern. When I learned of Ted's stainless steel braided replacement, I ordered it. It is now installed and my concern eliminated. If any others have this concern I strongly recommend Ted's reasonably priced replacement oil line. Incidentally, I do not know Ted. This is the first purchase I have made from him and I live in Georgia, whereas, I believe Ted is located in Ohio. My promotion is based on the value of the equipment as it relates to others with this concern only. Doug Nelson 74 TR6 Washington, GA ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From skip47 at clearwire.net Sun Nov 9 11:08:39 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 10:08:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] tuning webers References: <4915BAD6.2050806@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <7493ED3447F240B585874EE857DAF3A7@ZEUS> Hi dave- Here's a website that might help: http://www.racetep.com/webjettune.html Best, Skip Gurnee 64TR4 66TR4A 87 Lotus Cortina, 70 TVR (both running Webers) ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Brady" To: "Triumph Sports car discussion" Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 8:14 AM Subject: [TR] tuning webers > Folks, > > I need some help setting up my triple webers on my TR250. > I have a stumble in the mid rpm range, 1000 rpm to 2500 > rpm. It idles good and it runs well above 2500 rpm. I > think I'm idling on the idle jets and not on the progression > circuits. It seems to me that the problem is with the progression > circuits or with the accelerator pumps. I'm thinking accelerator > pumps. Any idea on what to try? > > Thanks, > David Brady > '68 TR250, CD8124L From Chip19474 at aol.com Sun Nov 9 14:13:41 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 16:13:41 EST Subject: [TR] Apparent vapor lock Message-ID: David, When it runs rough during that "short time restart", do you observe the exhaust color running "rich"? I've seen conditions where the float level is just high enough and the float needles are just sticky enough to allow fuel to get past the float needles after the motor is turned off and collect in the intake manifold. This will only happen for a short time until the residual fuel pressure from the fuel pump is drawn down. So, after an hour of engine off, the fuel evaporates but after a few minutes the fuel is there and rich enough to load the engine and cause rough running. If the engine isn't running rich during this "short time restart" then we have to think of another cause. If the engine starts well you'd think that there's enough fuel in the bowls so fuel percolation or low fuel levels in the bowls don't seem to be the culprit. During the "short time restart" running (when it's running rough) does pulling the choke out make it run any differently? Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 11/9/2008 11:19:00 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: It starts well, but goes through periods of rough running, almost like a plug wire is disconnected (its not that). I can get it to clear, but intermittently returns to rough running. **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From sportycars at britishcarweek.org Sun Nov 9 15:17:11 2008 From: sportycars at britishcarweek.org (sportycars at britishcarweek.org) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 17:17:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spitfire 4 Paint Colors Message-ID: Hello, I'm in the early stages of planning a restoration on a '64 Spitfire 4 and would be interested to know about any known paint color samples available for this model year. I know that Donald Pikovnik (Vintage Color Register) was doing some paint color work and offering color samples for other cars, but I'm not sure whether he did any of this with the Spitfire colors.... Thanks for any assistance. Scott Helms Northern Indiana From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 9 15:23:51 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 14:23:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Ted Schumacher Oil Line In-Reply-To: <16935956.1226253029829.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20081109222350.MQAE24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > whereas, I believe Ted is located in Ohio. Indeed that is where he is based. But you can find him at almost every major Triumph event, frequently as a featured speaker. He also sponsors the "Sweat Equity" award at every VTR national convention. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 9 15:34:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 14:34:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumph Radio question In-Reply-To: <110920081443.11561.4916F7020009CA5D00002D292207300793CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20081109223450.MUIA24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Can anyone confirm this is positive ground? Yup. Positive ground only, AM only. Originally made by Bendix, but branded as a Triumph. FWIW, service information for it can be found in SAMS Photofacts volume AR-26. Randall From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com Sun Nov 9 15:52:04 2008 From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 17:52:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spitfire 4 Paint Colors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106D5F73C31@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Scott, When I had my '75 Spit painted this spring, I used the PPG paint code from a scanned sheet on this site: http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1964-triumph-pg01.jpg With the PPG paint code, most any decent paint shop should be able to mix it up for you - or you can order your paint direct from these folks. I had my Delft Blue 'translated' from the original single-stage to a base-clear 2 stage. I've never seen a Spit with original Delft Blue paint, but I'm sure happy with the color as it came out. Jim '68 Spitfire Mk3 '75 Spitfire 1500 '77 Spitfire 1500 NASS #302 York, PA www.littlebluespitfire.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sportycars at britishcarweek.org Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 5:17 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire 4 Paint Colors Hello, I'm in the early stages of planning a restoration on a '64 Spitfire 4 and would be interested to know about any known paint color samples available for this model year. I know that Donald Pikovnik (Vintage Color Register) was doing some paint color work and offering color samples for other cars, but I'm not sure whether he did any of this with the Spitfire colors.... Thanks for any assistance. Scott Helms Northern Indiana This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jim.holmgren at corp.aol.com http://www.team.net/archive The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 9 16:58:24 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 18:58:24 EST Subject: [TR] Apparent vapor lock Message-ID: To all, Thanks. Yes it is the 3A. Sorry I should have been more specific. I have one of Joe Alexander's heat shields, but also have a header on this car. It has a 270 degree modified cam from BPNW Pulling out the choke makes it worse. Today I "fluttered" the gas pedal and increased RPMs and it cleared up but returned soon after I drove with a steady position on the pedal. This tells me that it is being fed too much fuel (?), and to be honest, behaves like it is only one carb. When I shut off the car the temp gauge goes a little north of the mark between 185 and 230. The thermo bypass hose was plugged when I disassembled the motor but I did not replug in when I reassembled. I drove this car about 35 minutes to breakfast with my Sunday LBC chums and 35 minutes back hitting speeds near 80 MPH (OD) and the car ran like a champ. I pulled into the garage, went into the house to get something and about 5 minutes later started her again and drove off. It started missing about two minutes after that. That describes the experience 2 or 3 times in the past. I had a similar experience once with my 6 and it was because there were Grosse float valves with the little ball. I replaced then with OEM style and it went away. It does not appear that these carbs have Grosse, although I have not removed them to look at them. They appear to be the ones with the rubber pointed tip, but only by what I can tell by looking at the end I can see. Jeff Palya rebuilt and polished them for me. There is not something basically wrong here, as this car runs very strong. Something is changing, and I am believing it is caused by heat. Of course, 90% of carb problems are electrical! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 9 17:01:14 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 19:01:14 EST Subject: [TR] Apparent vapor lock Message-ID: Left one thing out. I have both a yellow TR6 fan and an electric fan as a pusher. The electric is switched so it does not run when the car is shut off. It has an oil cooler as well. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Nov 9 18:49:30 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 18:49:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumph Radio question In-Reply-To: <20081109223450.MUIA24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <110920081443.11561.4916F7020009CA5D00002D292207300793CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> <20081109223450.MUIA24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7bb181af0811091749y53439370mcb9dd3f2bb21d941@mail.gmail.com> FWIW -- I have had radios with obvious polarity selectors (i.e. slide switches clearly labeled) and others not so obvious (a plug that is inserted one way for + ground and removed, rotated and reinserted to change to - ground. Geo From jat1127 at hotmail.com Sun Nov 9 19:00:29 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 21:00:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 7/8 bumpers Message-ID: LIsters, Does anyone on the list have experience with a company called: Morspeedperformance.com? These folks are on the web offering several body kits/parts for MGB amd the TR 7/8. As anyone perchased from them? How is the fit and finish? I like the looks of the TR 8 bumpers but when I emailed them and they say they are not taking orders at this time. John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Color coding for safety: Windows Live Hotmail alerts you to suspicious email. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_safety_1 12008 From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Sun Nov 9 19:41:51 2008 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 18:41:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spitfire 4 Paint Colors In-Reply-To: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106D5F73C31@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> References: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106D5F73C31@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Message-ID: <000001c942dd$e381a5a0$aa84f0e0$@rr.com> TCP stands for Tri-City Paint. I work about 1/2 mile from the store, and have to tell you that I recommend them highly. Their staff is very knowledgeable and take the extra steps to get it right. They've been supplying the autobody folks around Southern Cal for years. NFI Johnnie -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Holmgren Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 2:52 PM To: 'sportycars at britishcarweek.org'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire 4 Paint Colors Scott, When I had my '75 Spit painted this spring, I used the PPG paint code from a scanned sheet on this site: http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1964-triumph-pg01.jpg With the PPG paint code, most any decent paint shop should be able to mix it up for you - or you can order your paint direct from these folks. I had my Delft Blue 'translated' from the original single-stage to a base-clear 2 stage. I've never seen a Spit with original Delft Blue paint, but I'm sure happy with the color as it came out. Jim '68 Spitfire Mk3 '75 Spitfire 1500 '77 Spitfire 1500 NASS #302 York, PA www.littlebluespitfire.com -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sportycars at britishcarweek.org Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 5:17 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Spitfire 4 Paint Colors Hello, I'm in the early stages of planning a restoration on a '64 Spitfire 4 and would be interested to know about any known paint color samples available for this model year. I know that Donald Pikovnik (Vintage Color Register) was doing some paint color work and offering color samples for other cars, but I'm not sure whether he did any of this with the Spitfire colors.... Thanks for any assistance. Scott Helms Northern Indiana This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jim.holmgren at corp.aol.com http://www.team.net/archive The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as pdonnel1 at san.rr.com http://www.team.net/archive From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Nov 9 19:45:42 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 21:45:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR 7/8 bumpers References: Message-ID: It sure looks worth a call. Their stuff looks very nice. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "john taylor" To: "Triumphs at Autox.team.net daily digest" ; Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 9:00 PM Subject: [TR] TR 7/8 bumpers > LIsters, > > Does anyone on the list have experience with a company called: > Morspeedperformance.com? > > These folks are on the web offering several body kits/parts for MGB amd > the > TR 7/8. As anyone perchased from them? How is the fit and finish? > > I like the looks of the TR 8 bumpers but when I emailed them and they say > they are not taking orders at this time. John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma > Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not > want > to finish first. > _________________________________________________________________ From mondoluxe at suddenlink.net Sun Nov 9 21:29:06 2008 From: mondoluxe at suddenlink.net (Jeffrey Johnson) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2008 22:29:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Ted Schumacher oil line Message-ID: <20081110043011.LMYQ3195.omta02.suddenlink.net@mariner133.suddenlink.net> I just happened be struggling with the oil line on my six and was concerned w/ using the 32 year old plastic and hearing the horror stories of getting oil on your nice kicks- so I too purchased from Ted and was impressed with the fast ship, excellent price, and quality unit. Nice job, Ted. From tom628 at verizon.net Sun Nov 9 22:45:21 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 00:45:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] Apparent vapor lock References: Message-ID: <251AE8CA79F34DC4BDEA7E7068888342@Toms> Dave: Seems like it could be fuel percolating in the float bowls. You might want to try taking it for a good warm-up ride again,and then set up an external floor or table fan to blow relatively cool air across the carbs for a few minutes and then take it for a ride again to see if you can duplicate the previous problem. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 6:58 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Apparent vapor lock > To all, Thanks. > Yes it is the 3A. Sorry I should have been more specific. > I have one of Joe Alexander's heat shields, but also have a header on this > car. > It has a 270 degree modified cam from BPNW > Pulling out the choke makes it worse. > Today I "fluttered" the gas pedal and increased RPMs and it cleared up but > returned soon after I drove with a steady position on the pedal. This > tells > me that it is being fed too much fuel (?), and to be honest, behaves like > it > is only one carb. > When I shut off the car the temp gauge goes a little north of the mark > between 185 and 230. > The thermo bypass hose was plugged when I disassembled the motor but I > did > not replug in when I reassembled. > I drove this car about 35 minutes to breakfast with my Sunday LBC chums > and > 35 minutes back hitting speeds near 80 MPH (OD) and the car ran like a > champ. > I pulled into the garage, went into the house to get something and about > 5 > minutes later started her again and drove off. It started missing about > two > minutes after that. That describes the experience 2 or 3 times in the > past. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 9 22:52:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 21:52:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumph Radio question In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0811091749y53439370mcb9dd3f2bb21d941@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20081110055210.TMXU24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > FWIW -- I have had radios with obvious polarity selectors > (i.e. slide switches clearly labeled) and others not so > obvious (a plug that is inserted one way for + ground and > removed, rotated and reinserted to change to - ground. Agreed. But in those cases, the provision is pretty clear on the schematic. In this case, there is no indication on the schematic of any such scheme. Apparently in 1965, the "Triumph" radio from Bendix came in both flavors. The 5BTR had no provisions for switching polarity, but the 5BTRP had a slide switch. Randall From llst at shaw.ca Sun Nov 9 22:58:47 2008 From: llst at shaw.ca (LT) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2008 21:58:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] Triumph Radio question Message-ID: <4917CD97.7060608@shaw.ca> Brian, 4TBTR is the model number for the 1964 radio. The Bendix service manual indicates that you connect "the Positive side of the power source to the radio housing and the negative side to the "A" lead" It also indicates that a speaker with 20 ohms impedance is required. "DO NOT USE A STANDARD 3.2 OHM VOICE COIL" The radio has an eardrum shattering 2 watts output. Larry Ternowski Brian wrote I have read from this list that radios from earlier Triumph cars (and others of that time) have a ground selector to set the radio for operation in pos. or neg. ground cars. I have an old Triumph radio (two knobs, 5 push buttons). It is branded Triumph and has the 'book' logo in the display . The display has a 5 to 16 scale, and is AM, I assume. It has is no ground selector. Written on the case: 4TBTR 009342 Is it safe to assume, as there is no alternative ground setting option, that this radio is for a positive-ground car? It has three wires. One black, with a bullet connector; two speaker wires Brown and Brown/Yellow. I want to test the radio to see if it works, and if so, find it a good home. It is in surprisingly good condition, compared to the junk I've seen on ebay. Can anyone confirm this is positive ground? Cheers, Brian From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Nov 10 05:27:15 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 07:27:15 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Painting brake calipers? In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Hi, I've just wire-brushed my calipers prior to painting. I've done a couple of sets. One set I seperated 'cause I wound up using a grease gun to get the pistons out... that was a messy-messy job getting the grease out of the passages! But the most recent set was a piece of cake (the pistons came out easily with a screwdriver and some persuasion) and I just used my bench grinder with 6" wire brushes... the whole job took maybe two hours (to strip, wire brush and paint), add another hour for painting. I used Duplicolor silver brake caliper paint. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From thenicholls at verizon.net Mon Nov 10 06:01:37 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 07:01:37 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Leaking clutch master cylinder after 1278 miles Message-ID: <1732275430.3852441226322097785.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> To the list, 6/20/07 have a leak in my 72 Triumph TR6 at the clutch slave cylinder. Order brand new master and slave from TRF. British car shop installed 6/22/07, and made the comment that they did not like to install parts in a white box. I was like what? The master said Girling on it and it was from TRF so this comment confused me. This weekend I noticed fluid below the master, and you know how that works on the paint. I checked all connections, they are fine. Could the list provide me some information? Should I just replace it again, and if so, should I order it from somewhere else? I can't imagine that a NOS master sitting around for 30 years would be a good choice. Thanks in advance. Craig H. Nicholls Vienna, VA 1972 Triumph TR6 From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Nov 10 07:36:06 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 08:36:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers? References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: When doing the calipers for Jill's Midget a few months ago, I really had a hard time removing the brake dust. These were low-mile originals not touched since new in 1978, with only minimal rust. I don't have access to a blast cabinet any more, and solvents did little. I finally tried soaking the caliper halves in diluted phosphoric acid. It stinks - hydrogen sulphide? - (gotta leave it outside). There was tremendous foaming, with a heavy black scum of brake dust forming on the top of the container. The caliper halves came out as beautiful gray iron. The cast iron wasn't dimensionally changed or harmed and the threads in the calipers were fine despite my having soaked them for two days HOWEVER - you can't leave threaded STEEL parts in too long as it will etch away the sharp parts of threads (like the bleeders and bridge screws that I soaked too long). But the threads in the cast iron were unharmed. I too used Dupli-Color aerosol caliper paint and they still look great, though it's only a couple of months and a few hundred miles later. Karl From McGaheyRx at aol.com Mon Nov 10 07:43:27 2008 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 09:43:27 EST Subject: [TR] Leaking clutch master cylinder after 1278 miles Message-ID: In a message dated 11/10/2008 8:20:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: British car shop installed 6/22/07, and made the comment that they did not like to install parts in a white box. I was like what? The master said Girling on it and it was from TRF so this comment confused me. Most (if not all) new TR6 master cylinders available now are reproductions with "Lucas" cast in the side - I got one of these a year or 2 ago and it leaked immediately - I have since heard of MANY other identical experiences with these - and a couple of cases where the reservoir was cracked on the bottom, apparently from over tightening when assembled. Consequently I will never buy another new one - get an old one re sleeved in brass and rebuild it with new rebuild kit. Cheers, Jack Mc **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 10 09:39:06 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 16:39:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] Leaking clutch master cylinder after 1278 miles In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I jave a used but good clutch master cylinder that is powder coated, thanks to Fred. I had to replace it when I switched to a Tilton HTOB. It was working fine but was not compatible with the HTOB. I will accept a reasonable offer for it plus shipping of course. Best regards, Tom > From: McGaheyRx at aol.com > Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 09:43:27 -0500 > To: thenicholls at verizon.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Leaking clutch master cylinder after 1278 miles > > In a message dated 11/10/2008 8:20:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > > British car shop installed 6/22/07, and made the comment that they did > not like to install parts in a white box. I was like what? The master > said Girling on it and it was from TRF so this comment confused me. > > Most (if not all) new TR6 master cylinders available now are reproductions > with "Lucas" cast in the side - I got one of these a year or 2 ago and it > leaked immediately - I have since heard of MANY other identical experiences with > these - and a couple of cases where the reservoir was cracked on the bottom, > apparently from over tightening when assembled. Consequently I will never buy > another new one - get an old one re sleeved in brass and rebuild it with new > rebuild kit. > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other > Holiday needs. Search Now. > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http ://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from > -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail now works up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_faster_1 12008 From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Nov 10 10:20:36 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 12:20:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Leaking clutch master cylinder after 1278 miles In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well the up-side is if you are driving at night when you run into something because of lack of brakes you wont see it coming because your Lucas headlights probably aren't working:) Marty Most (if not all) new TR6 master cylinders available now are reproductions with "Lucas" cast in the side - I got one of these a year or 2 ago and it leaked immediately - I have since heard of MANY other identical experiences with these - _________________________________________________________________ Get 5 GB of storage with Windows Live Hotmail. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_5gb_1120 08 From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Nov 10 17:02:28 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 00:02:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Apparent vapor lock In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2088708605.614411226361748402.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> B Terry, Thanks. I already had that. Isn't that like Chicken Pox; you can only have it once? It isn't that hard to look in there so I guess that is tomorrow night's project (again). David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Nov 11 08:25:31 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 15:25:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Cold Air Draft In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <312403166.722811226417131862.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Okay, okay.B I have bowed to the winds of age.B ...Well, at least the winds of winter.B What I have done is put the top up on the 3 for the 45 minute 6:30 AM morning drives to work in cold central New Hampshire. Gadfrey.B Now, icy wind is still blowing in from under the dash through the big gap in the cowling over each wheel well.B ...So question.B How do people plug these?B Can't imagine that the cans of foam insulation would last long in a vibration location, but there must be something other than my wife's kitchen towels stuffed in there? Good news is, I've finally figured out these to be the places where the leaves and sand have been blowing into the cockpit. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A From blanoway at shaw.ca Tue Nov 11 08:27:44 2008 From: blanoway at shaw.ca (Brian Lanoway) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 09:27:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] 123 Ignition distributor in a TR6? Message-ID: Has anyone had success with the installation of a '123 Ignition' distributor in a TR6 while keeping the mechanical tach drive operational? My search of the List archives has revealed lots of desire to do so, but I couldn't find any solutions. Some have converted their TR6 tachs to an electronic version, but without much apparent success. Bob Danielson was thinking of installing the 123 system, but went to his fuel injection system instead. There appears to be a company in The Netherlands that will install the 123 unit in an existing TR6 distributor housing: http://www.britishsportscars.nl/123%20ingnition.htm Has anyone had any experience with such a distributor conversion? Is there a similar conversion available in North America? It would be nice if there was a way to install the 123 Ignition system without bastardizing the rest of the car. Thoughts anyone? Thanks so much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Nov 11 08:30:31 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 15:30:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Cold Air Draft In-Reply-To: <312403166.722811226417131862.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <146047868.724351226417431415.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> By the way, did someone say that new heater switches are available from Moss in Britain? Message-ID: <20081111154119.MZNI28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Now, icy wind is still blowing in from under the dash through > the big gap in the cowling over each wheel well.B ...So > question.B How do people plug these? Well, the first step would be to replace the seals (and sealing plate if necessary) inside the front fenders. http://www.zeni.net/trf/miniTR2TR3/29.php (near the bottom) Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Nov 11 14:17:49 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 16:17:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] 123 Ignition distributor in a TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brian, Back when I was thinking about it, the 123 Forums had someone in there who was doing a distributor modification to accept a mechanical tach. Maybe it was the link you provided as they do re-use the existing Lucas housing. And that's a pretty cool video showing the difference between the various timing options. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Lanoway Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 10:28 AM To: Triumphs Digest Subject: [TR] 123 Ignition distributor in a TR6? Has anyone had success with the installation of a '123 Ignition' distributor in a TR6 while keeping the mechanical tach drive operational? My search of the List archives has revealed lots of desire to do so, but I couldn't find any solutions. Some have converted their TR6 tachs to an electronic version, but without much apparent success. Bob Danielson was thinking of installing the 123 system, but went to his fuel injection system instead. There appears to be a company in The Netherlands that will install the 123 unit in an existing TR6 distributor housing: http://www.britishsportscars.nl/123%20ingnition.htm Has anyone had any experience with such a distributor conversion? Is there a similar conversion available in North America? It would be nice if there was a way to install the 123 Ignition system without bastardizing the rest of the car. Thoughts anyone? Thanks so much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl Tue Nov 11 14:21:00 2008 From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 22:21:00 +0100 Subject: [TR] Installing 123 ignition in a TR6 Message-ID: <670A70E5F5464BF1956FB41D867C44AB@CP1262290A> Hello Brian, My plan to install a 123 Ignition in a TR6 is to use it as-is. I converted the Tach to Electronic (Using a Smiths donor instrument ;-). Pic's attached (stripped to the list). I have held the conversion of the Dutch company in my hands; it still is the old Lucas dizzy and one of the reasons for me to convert would be to replace a worn out dizzy. As a side benefit you will get a Bosch rotor and cap. Some more prone to failure parts replaced! If you favor the original look, the conversion would be the way to go. The company here in the Netherlands is the only one that can order just the ECB of the 123. As you may know the manufacturer of the 123 Ignition is a Dutch company also, Albertronics. In my approach I will retain the original looks for the Dash and have the more reliable solution under the hood/bonnet. Just my 2 Eurocents of course. Regards, Marc (The Netherlands) [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of DZM innerseite.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of DZM Anzeiger.jpg] From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Nov 12 12:47:13 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 11:47:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Directional brake rotors Message-ID: <205942.15647.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> All: I've just received my new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors. They look cool enough, and will be even better once installed with the other brake toys I just bought. But - they're directional. Which way do the slots (//) point? My guess is that for the passenger side it's: // > front of vehicle. Correct? Joe Merone CF18928 From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Wed Nov 12 14:50:02 2008 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken)) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 22:50:02 +0100 Subject: [TR] 123 Ignition distributor in a TR6? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Here you go: http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7296 Best regards Eric -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Lanoway Sent: Tuesday, November 11, 2008 4:28 PM To: Triumphs Digest Subject: [TR] 123 Ignition distributor in a TR6? Has anyone had success with the installation of a '123 Ignition' distributor in a TR6 while keeping the mechanical tach drive operational? My search of the List archives has revealed lots of desire to do so, but I couldn't find any solutions. Some have converted their TR6 tachs to an electronic version, but without much apparent success. Bob Danielson was thinking of installing the 123 system, but went to his fuel injection system instead. There appears to be a company in The Netherlands that will install the 123 unit in an existing TR6 distributor housing: http://www.britishsportscars.nl/123%20ingnition.htm Has anyone had any experience with such a distributor conversion? Is there a similar conversion available in North America? It would be nice if there was a way to install the 123 Ignition system without bastardizing the rest of the car. Thoughts anyone? Thanks so much in advance, Brian Lanoway 1973 TR6 Winnipeg From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Nov 12 16:29:14 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 23:29:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Cold Air Draft In-Reply-To: <92F5A386837D44829C2CE5258BD8B4CB@KENTECHHP> Message-ID: <412806811.215051226532554425.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >btw - Our would leak like a waterfall in the rain before we made the change >and now it's dry. >PeterK DRY!B You mean this ethereal phenomenon is possible in a TR3????B I don't have to carry a rainsuit in the trunk even with the top up???? I rank this nirvana among my elite dreams of as a balanced federal budget, a Detroit car company that doesn't whine for a bailout, and truth spilling from the moving lips of a politician! If I get enough done in the garage this winter, I'll take adding the wheel well seals on as an additional project.B Thanks, Peter! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Wed Nov 12 16:30:27 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 18:30:27 EST Subject: [TR] Directional brake rotors Message-ID: >From what recall ( and using logic) the outer edge of the slots should face the rear. ( Passenger side, visible part of the rotor looking at the top of the rotor \ \ \ ) The slots are there to let gas / dust escape from the pad / rotor interface. When the rotor is spinning you want the stuff to escape the rotor rather than being drawn into the center. Harold ************** Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=h ttp://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Nov 12 18:08:48 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 20:08:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] newer, better toys! Message-ID: <491B37D0.7342.5B9584B@localhost> Yesterday of course was Veterans' Day, a.k.a. Armistice Day. It being a holiday for me I took the opportunity (besides giving thanks for those who have and still do put their lives on the line for all of us) to take the GT6 over to a wheel specialy shop here in town. They measured and hemmed and hawed and said the one I thought was the worst offender was slightly out of round. How the machine measured the inside where the tire sits I have no idea, but I had measured the tire as showing about 0.1" runout, and they said the wheel was 0.044", where the spec (presumably for a generic wheel) was 0.01". Okay, one could see the manufacturing imperfections in the wheel where the thickness of the bead varied around the rim, but the outside of the bead seemed pretty stable. Anyway, they wanted to straighten it but it was too small for the smallest mounting bracket on their machine! Instead, they match-balanced three of the wheels, which means turning the tire on the wheel so the tire's and wheel's high spots are on opposite sides. Then they put the worst offender on the rear. The weights required ended up being waaaaay less than they had had before. They charged me only $54. Today I drove the car to work. Wow! It was so smooth I called them up and complimented them. It feels like a great highway car again. While I was waiting a guy brought in a hugh wheel, actually 19" and seemed nearly that wide, all silvery but scratched where he'd scraped a curb. They told me it was a stock Infiniti wheel, that fixing the finish would be $250 but a new one would have cost him $1100! I finally got a BMW Z4 roadster. This past weekend (one week early) my wife threw a surprise 60th birthday party for me. One of the presents was the Z4. It has no back seat to speak of. No useful front seat either because the whole car is only about 7" long. Oh, and I have to put it together myself. Don't know why the giver thought a Z4 would be appropriate, but his toys are a '55 and '56 Olds, the '56 a convertible. You can't argue with a sense of taste like that! Life is good. Now if only the stock market would stop falling so I can retire sooner than five years after I'm dead... -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From AMfoto1 at aol.com Mon Nov 10 16:57:54 2008 From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 18:57:54 EST Subject: [TR] Tuning Webers Message-ID: Hi David, Also take a look at _http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6weber.html_ (http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6weber.html) The short 12mm air horns might be part of your problem. Shorter horns are usually chosen for high rpm performance, longer ones for mid and lower rpm work (a bit more streetable, in other words). The main reason for this is standoff, or air fuel mixture escaping from the outer end of the carb. In simple terms, longer horns prevent standoff escaping when the air flow is slower, i.e., at lower and mid rpms, where it could tend to lean out the mid range rpms. You can go up to 35mm horns with the deeper (3.5" I think) K&N filters, but might have clearance issues at fenders or hood on your car. Alternatively, "Sock" type filters can be used with most any length air horn. Or, are you running without filters? If so, Webers seem to work best in "still air", so some sort of filter or airbox is usually best. _http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/_ (http://www.teglerizer.com/dcoe/) shows the standard jetting setup provided in the conversion kits sold for TR6 (and TR250, I'm sure). Also, which series DCOEs are you using? There are three different accelerator pump strokes, among other differences. TR6 are specified by Weber to use DCOE-18 (x3), which have the shortest accel. stroke length of 10mm. (Note: DCOE-18 are no longer made, new kits for TR6 are provided with a different model, DCOE151 I think. Unfortunately I don't know what it's pump stroke is.) Haynes recommends DCOE-2 for TR250/6, which has a longer, 14mm accel. pump stroke. This might be a clue you can use. Your setup seems pretty much in line with the conversion kit specifications, except that your main jet is slightly larger (125 compared to 120), your air corrector is quite a bit smaller (145 compared to 160) and your idle jet is quite a bit larger (65f8 compared to 50f11). All else appears the same. One other key thing, the old Haynes manual specified 27mm chokes, while the Weber manual specified 30mm. The difference may be that the Weber was for the UK/European car model with higher HP rating (fuel injection, but also a diff. head), while the Haynes spec was for US versions of TR250/6. At any rate, 30mm seem to be the choice for race engines, while 27 or 28 are perhaps more for street. Smaller chokes will increase the speed of air moving through the carb at lower and mid rpms and might help your situation. (See Terri Ann Wakeman's site, although it's more pretinent to the 4 cylinder TRs. _http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/WeberDCOEinfo.htm_ (http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/WeberDCOEinfo.htm) ) Note too that there's some dispute whether the pump bleed jet should be closed (as shown in Haynes) or have a 50 jet in it (as shown in the Weber reference book). Similar situation to the difference in choke size, and you'll find some more explanation at the first link. You didn't mention the needle jet. A 2.00 is specified, but it appears some use a 1.75. The fact that higher RPMs seem good on your car points toward the needle jet, fuel supply and fuel pressure being correct. There are several ways to tune and it means a lot of swapping of jets. Because of this it's usually best is to work with a shop that has supplies of jets on hand to try before you buy, as well as an exhaust gas analyzer and perhaps a dyno. That way you don' t end up buying many sets of jets whle trying to dial it in yourself with guess work. Keep in mind, the jetting provided in the conversion kit is always just a rough starting point. Every engine is different, as are driving habits and requirements, so the jetting is almost always going to vary from the "norm". Plus, what works for one car might not work for another car, even if it's very similarly set up otherwise. If you look at the list of what people are using in TR6 at the first link I mentioned above, you will see a range of variations. Webers are also sensitive to altitude and even weather conditions. For example colder and denser air calls for richer jetting and warmer air needs leaner. Most who use DCOE end up with a few extra sets of jets to swap out for fine tuning as ambient conditioins change. So, buying extra sets isn't necessarily bad (and any extras can usually be sold off on eBay). Note that there can't be much variation in compression, cylinder to cylinder. As a freshly rebuilt engine breaks in over time, it will likely need re-tuning once or twice, too. Any additional modifications to the engine will call for re-tuning, too. Finally, what ignition system are you using? This can make quite a difference. Stock TR250/6 are generally not up to the job. Is it set up for mechanical advance only? Vacuum advance is not usable with Webers (I think mainly because tapping the intake manifold as a source for the vacuum throws off one of the carbs from the rest ). Hope this helps! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. _amfoto1 at aol.com_ (mailto:amfoto1 at aol.com) '62 TR4 CT17602L _http://www.triumphowners.com/640_ (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) I'm also running short, 12mm air horns and an electric fuel with a pressure regulator set at 3psi and .375" fuel lines. David Brady '68 TR250 CD8124L David Brady wrote: > Folks, > > Thanks for your help. Here's what I'm running: > > Three 40DCOE's, > Idle: 65F8 > Air Corrector: 145 > Emulsion: F11 > Main: 125 > Accel Pump Jet: 40 > Aux Venturi: 45 > Choke: 30mm > > The motor is reasonably high performance. A lot of > work was done porting the intake runners and the head. > It's dyno-ed at 170hp. > > I'm far from Weber expert. I'll try to get my hands on some > tutorial, but I don't really know where to start. It does idle > good, so maybe we can assume that the idle jets and the > progression circuits are good. It runs great above 3000rpm's > so the main's are probably fine. My first inclination is accelerator > pumps. Thanks for your help. > **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other Holiday needs. Search Now. (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001) From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com Mon Nov 10 08:11:17 2008 From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 10:11:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triple Webers Message-ID: I have triple webers on my 2.5L GT6 convertible (I assembled a car with the features I wanted, not what the factory built). After 10 years of tuning by the seat of the parts, I started tuning with an oxygen sensor. I use a cheap narrow band, heated 3-wire O2 sensor/gage with a bung that I welded on my header collector. In the future, I intend to buy a wide band O2 sensor kit - with data logging capability! For about $250 to $400 there a numerous wide band kits and several of them have data logging. For older vehicles with out an O2 bung, it is not uncommon to clamp an O2 sensor into the tailpipe for temporary use. I also have a slight stumble on very light acceleration in a slightly narrower rpm band than you mention. I am fairly certain that I can tune this out, primarily with idle jets - it is "good enough" for now and I have too much going on in my free time right now to mess with it. There is quite a bit of functional difference in idle jets once you play the diameter of the fuel orifice against the dia of the air orifice. I purchase idle jets off of eBay. Seller is in Italy and I presume that the jets are not Weber brand in that they are marked slightly different than the actual Weber jets that I have. From what I remember, cost is about $2.50 per jet and you can get up to 14 jets for the same shipping price. To cut my costs a bit more, I tend to buy my jets slightly on the smaller size and open them up with very small drill bits (I have a drill press that spins up to 8K rpm, ideal for drills that are frequently less than 1 mm in diameter). I buy the 2 mismatched jets slightly larger and use them as gages - to measure the hole diameters before drilling out others. BTW, my fuel mileage has increased from 17 mpg to 26 mpg (up to 31 for all freeway driving) and the carbs are still running from stoichometric (sp?) to rich. I have not bothered to give you my jetting since my chokes are 27mm and that effects all other jetting. Folks, I need some help setting up my triple webers on my TR250. I have a stumble in the mid rpm range, 1000 rpm to 2500 rpm. It idles good and it runs well above 2500 rpm. I think I'm idling on the idle jets and not on the progression circuits. It seems to me that the problem is with the progression circuits or with the accelerator pumps. I'm thinking accelerator pumps. Any idea on what to try? Thanks, David Brady '68 TR250, CD8124L From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Nov 12 21:22:19 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 23:22:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] rubber restorative? Message-ID: <008601c94547$6b98a450$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hello list, I have bought a genuine Tijuana Taxi horn for my TR, it can be viewed at http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300269353851&ss pagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&viewitem= As the rubber bulb (meant for squeezing) works, but needs some TLC. Could soaking(the bulb only) in barely-used 10w30 motor oil, possibly be restorative? I've got a lot of this oil on hand. Thanks, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 12 22:27:18 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 21:27:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] rubber restorative? In-Reply-To: <008601c94547$6b98a450$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081113052718.WUKX24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > As the rubber bulb (meant for squeezing) works, but needs > some TLC. Could soaking(the bulb only) in barely-used 10w30 > motor oil, possibly be restorative? It depends on exactly which "rubber" the bulb is made of; but in general I think motor oil is more likely to degrade it than help preserve it. I would be more inclined to try "silicone spray", which should be readily available at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store. Apply a light coat, then wait for it to soak in, and apply another coat. Repeat as necessary. Of course, this will not remove any existing damage, but it should help soften and rejuvenate the rubber that is still in good shape. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Nov 13 06:00:18 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 08:00:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] absent plug rust? Message-ID: <009101c9458f$c8c42f30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Eh oh Over a month ago,I drained the oil from my TR3, which is also located outside. But I forgot to replace the oil drain plug! The car is non-moving, has it's bonnet on and up on a rack. Is there much of a reason to worry that rust might have developed inside the motor? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 13 06:12:32 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 08:12:32 EST Subject: [TR] absent plug rust? Message-ID: No, There is (or should be) a nice coating of oil on everything in there. Your motor is vented to the outside through the breather tube and breather cap anyway. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get movies delivered to your mailbox. One month free from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From wbmcleod at gmail.com Thu Nov 13 08:31:14 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 08:31:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tr-3A Brake rotors Message-ID: <3611C267-842A-48E7-9ABD-79005CAA1CFB@gmail.com> Could someone tell me the correct thickness limits of the TR-3 brake rotors? Thanks, Bill From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 13 09:41:28 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 08:41:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] Tr-3A Brake rotors In-Reply-To: <3611C267-842A-48E7-9ABD-79005CAA1CFB@gmail.com> References: <3611C267-842A-48E7-9ABD-79005CAA1CFB@gmail.com> Message-ID: > Could someone tell me the correct thickness limits of the TR-3 brake > rotors? As I recall, there was no clearly defined wear limit given (this was before the days when such things were required by law). However, the discs are about .500" new, and the workshop manual says not to remove more than .060", so presumably .440" is minimum thickness for a rotor to be installed. However, I've seen people run them much thinner, with no apparent problems. Randall From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Nov 13 10:36:17 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 12:36:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?iso-8859-1?q?absent_plug_rust=3F?= Message-ID: <20081113173617.28911.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> On the basis that I will inevitably forget that I drained the oil and then try and start it in the spring (or one of my kids will ...), I would put oil back in the system for the winter! In tems of rusting, unless the car/engine is in a location where it can get fairly warm (near vents, dryer oulets, rare burst of sustained warm winter sunshine, etc.) then you should not get condensation inside the block as a result of heating and cooling, and even then, you should be OK with the film of oil that coats everything inside the engine. ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > -------Original Message------- > From: dorpaul > Subject: [TR] absent plug rust? > Sent: Nov 13 '08 08:00 > > Eh oh > Over a month ago,I drained the oil from my TR3, which is also located outside. > But I forgot to replace the oil drain plug! The car is non-moving, has it's > bonnet on and up on a rack. > > Is there much of a reason to worry that rust might have developed inside the > motor? > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From pethier at comcast.net Thu Nov 13 10:53:23 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 17:53:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] absent plug rust? Message-ID: <111320081753.22580.491C6993000E47640000583422155751149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: > On the basis that I will inevitably forget that I drained the oil and then try > and start it in the spring (or one of my kids will ...), I would put oil back in > the system for the winter! In tems of rusting, unless the car/engine is in a > location where it can get fairly warm (near vents, dryer oulets, rare burst of > sustained warm winter sunshine, etc.) then you should not get condensation > inside the block as a result of heating and cooling, and even then, you should > be OK with the film of oil that coats everything inside the engine. If you drain the oil and don't put in new oil and turn over the engine for a while, you still have old oil sitting on the bearings so you might as well have left the old oil in there. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Thu Nov 13 14:39:58 2008 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simo) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 16:39:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] rubber restorative? In-Reply-To: <20081113052718.WUKX24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <008601c94547$6b98a450$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <20081113052718.WUKX24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <6fa72a770811131339s924736bpfd934543ae14514d@mail.gmail.com> Paul, Funny you should mention this. I was just looking for a new rubber bulb the other week. The old one is hanging on - but barely. it seems that rubber was very different back in 1954. It seems most of the rubber repro parts I've bought in the last 15 years deteriorate quite quickly. My Great Uncle Star bought my TR2 brand new - and shipped it all around Eurpope while in the Air Force. While in Turkey, one of the local guys made a horn similar to the one Paul bought (straight - not curved) and made a spiffy brass mounting bracket that fits into the frontmost wedge mount on the driver door. I love the way it looks on the car. Chris From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Thu Nov 13 16:44:35 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:44:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 101 Message-ID: <00b101c945e9$cabadc30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've been told, I think, that oil pressure is not like coolant pressure, tire pressure or the traditional use of 'pressure'. It's concerned with volumn (of oil) and the pressure of it. It's somehow produced in the oil pump (and measured there?) and, I guess, pure oil (as opposed to air and oil) are pumped from the oii pump, up the galleries and to the rocker arm area.. Here the air escapes thru the oil breather hole, and then oil breather pipe? or the more modern pcv valve. Perhaps my naive-ness doesn't need to be stated to this group, but, where does oil pressure get measured and how? since the areas are vented? If the valve cover area is where the venting takes place, then why is it called crankcase venting? And somebody has talked about removing the breather tube? Why wouldn't that blow out all the seals or something? Just the basics please... Paul 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From wbmcleod at gmail.com Thu Nov 13 17:01:17 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 17:01:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 101 In-Reply-To: <00b101c945e9$cabadc30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00b101c945e9$cabadc30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8E28F7A2-4D90-406D-AE01-014BE45F5A90@gmail.com> Oil pressure (actually volume) is generated by the pump, picking up oil from the sump (oil pan). The pressure is measured when the oil goes through the filter or on the other side as it starts to enter the narrow oil passages into the engine (mains and rods and head). Air in the oil is a bad thing! The oil lubricates stuff and then drips down into the sump to start over. end of Lesson one. Regards, Bill Slightly Classics, Tucson, AZ. On Nov 13, 2008, at 4:44 PM, dorpaul wrote: > I've been told, I think, that oil pressure is not like coolant > pressure, tire > pressure or the traditional use of 'pressure'. It's concerned with > volumn (of > oil) and the pressure of it. It's somehow produced in the oil pump > (and > measured there?) and, I guess, pure oil (as opposed to air and oil) > are pumped > from the oii pump, up the galleries and to the rocker arm area.. > Here the air > escapes thru the oil breather hole, and then oil breather pipe? or > the more > modern pcv valve. > > Perhaps my naive-ness doesn't need to be stated to this group, but, > where does > oil pressure get measured and how? since the areas are vented? If > the valve > cover area is where the venting takes place, then why is it called > crankcase > venting? > > And somebody has talked about removing the breather tube? Why > wouldn't that > blow out all the seals or something? > > Just the basics please... > Paul 60 TR3 From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Nov 13 17:04:51 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 00:04:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3A Silentblocs In-Reply-To: <00b101c945e9$cabadc30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <2056908835.454851226621091768.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Having a garage (whoo hoo!) for the first time in my life, may be able to do some TR upgrades this winter. 1)B Plan on converting to the nylon (?) silentblocs.B Am assuming I can jack up the front end, pull the wheels, and reach everything from underneath, right?B (I've only touched this with the body off.) 2)B Someone on the List suggested replacing easily rotted ball joint rubber boots with Toyota boots.B Anybody know the model number to ask for? Raining today and my garage is dry inside for the first time because I finished the plywood siding this weekend.B Did the frame off on my '59 TR3A a few years ago groveling in the dirt and fishing dropped parts out of the sand.B ?Question?B Did I get the sequence of this wrong???? Terry Smith New Hampshire From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Thu Nov 13 17:31:32 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 19:31:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] rubber restorative? References: <20081113052718.WUKX24109.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <6F899FBE4D5B40C59F6C31DE77B509AE@userb38463fba5> If the bulb is Natural rubber and not a synthetic it will swell significantly. My guess is that it is Natural rubber as that's the least expensive to compound. Natural Rubber is really good for vibration dampening and frequently used in engine and transmission mounts but when it gets oil soaked it looses its advantage. Have you seen how bad the Transmission mounts get once oil soaked. A rubber compounded for oil resistance would not be affected at all. For an extreme example of what happens put a bellows from an OD solenoid in gasoline for a few days and see how large it swells. I had a friend do that once, he thought it would help clean off the grease, it did. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'list Triumph'" Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 12:27 AM Subject: Re: [TR] rubber restorative? >> As the rubber bulb (meant for squeezing) works, but needs >> some TLC. Could soaking(the bulb only) in barely-used 10w30 >> motor oil, possibly be restorative? > > It depends on exactly which "rubber" the bulb is made of; but in general I > think motor oil is more likely to degrade it than help preserve it. I > would > be more inclined to try "silicone spray", which should be readily > available > at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store. Apply a light coat, then wait for it > to soak in, and apply another coat. Repeat as necessary. > > Of course, this will not remove any existing damage, but it should help > soften and rejuvenate the rubber that is still in good shape. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 13 19:17:10 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 21:17:10 EST Subject: [TR] TR3A Silentblocs Message-ID: Terry, The Silentblocs are Delrin. I put them in my 60 and I have to tell you it drives like a dream. I am not sure how much of this can be attributed to the Delrin bushes and how much to the zero castor but remembering to steer out of the turn as well as into the turn has taken a little practice! You did a frame off outdoors? I have officially stopped bitching about rolling around on the garage floor. Thanks for putting this all in perspective! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get movies delivered to your mailbox. One month free from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Nov 13 19:19:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 18:19:08 -0800 Subject: [TR] oil pressure 101 In-Reply-To: <00b101c945e9$cabadc30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081114021908.OQEY7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I've been told, I think, that oil pressure is not like > coolant pressure, tire pressure or the traditional use of > 'pressure'. I would not agree with that. The oil pressure gauge measures pressure just like any other pressure gauge. > It's concerned with volumn (of oil) and the pressure of it. What I would agree with is that volume of oil through the bearings is more important to their life than pressure. Thus, low oil pressure is not nearly as detrimental as say, low tire pressure; as long as the pump, filter, etc. are still doing their jobs. > It's somehow produced in the oil pump (and measured there?) Right. The oil pump creates the pressure (by forcing oil through the galleries, etc.), and on a TR2-4A motor, the oil pressure is measured where the oil enters the filter housing. > and, I guess, pure oil (as opposed to air and oil) Definitely should be only oil. > Here the air escapes > thru the oil breather hole, and then oil breather pipe? or > the more modern pcv valve. It should be "zero sum", that is whatever the oil pump pulls out of the sump should exactly match what comes out the other end and returns to the sump. Thus even if the pump should happen to suck air (which is not a Good Thing but can happen if, for example, the oil level is low and you go around a corner), the air does not need to escape from the motor. > where does oil pressure get measured and how? > since the areas are vented? The pressurized oil is trapped in the various passages, much like water in a garden hose. > If the valve cover area is where > the venting takes place, then why is it called crankcase venting? The main thing being vented is combustion gases that escape past the pistons and rings into the crankcase area. From there, the gases can find their way up through the pushrod tubes to the top of the head, if that is where the vent is located. But it is still "crankcase" gases that are being vented, hence the name remains the same. > And somebody has talked about removing the breather tube? > Why wouldn't that blow out all the seals or something? It is essential that the crankcase be vented in some fashion. On some later motors (after the end of the TR3 run), the open vent to the atmosphere was removed, and a means provided for the crankcase gases to be sucked back into the engine and be burned. This greatly reduces unburned hydrocarbon emissions. Unfortunately, the factory solutions were inadequate to handle the blowby on an even moderately worn engine, particularly at full throttle when there is no intake manifold vacuum, so these "positive crankcase ventilation systems" were actually not so positive, and indeed tended to blow oil past the rear crankshaft seal. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Thu Nov 13 19:27:09 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 21:27:09 EST Subject: [TR] Lucas Driving Lights Message-ID: I installed the Lucas knockoff driving lights on my 3A and just today wired them in with relay, etc. These lights are incredibly poorly focused. Are they truly just for show? One light makes a broad area of light with a ring around the outside and the other has a very bright spot at about the 10:00 o'clock position and the rest is scattered. Had I known this I would have put them on and not wired them. I have a flashlight that is better than that! They do nothing for driving. Ergo, a misnomer; driving lights. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get movies delivered to your mailbox. One month free from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From AA00727 at aol.com Fri Nov 14 00:09:19 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 02:09:19 EST Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiper Motor Message-ID: We are trying to hook up the wiper motor on my "62 TR-3. The diagram in the Workshop manual shows a two wire hookup but the wiring loom has three wires and the motor has three terminals. With all three wires hooked up the motor runs continuously with the switch on or off. It also smelled hot. Any suggestions on how we can make it work right and park properly? Gary B **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 14 05:05:08 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 07:05:08 EST Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiper Motor Message-ID: >From top to bottom they are Black, Green, Black/Green. The red wire soldered to the clip on the top of the gearbox is park. That may not be properly working. The black is, of course, ground. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get movies delivered to your mailbox. One month free from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 14 12:13:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 11:13:39 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiper Motor In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9BE3AE8603B14575829548C8FF01AA56@jdnet.deere.com> > >From top to bottom they are Black, Green, Black/Green. That doesn't seem to jive with my memory, tho I suppose it depends on exactly which wiper motor you have. Mine has two push-on terminals, identified as "1" and "2", plus a screw to the side (and more-or-less in the middle of the two push-on terminals) for the ground wire, which does not run into the harness. Terminal "1" gets the black/green wire. Terminal "2" gets the solid green wire (which may be two wires depending on the age of your wiring harness). The ground wire just runs over to one of the mounting bolts to the body. While most of the wiper motors did have the red 'park' wire exposed on top of the parking mechanism; some of them did not. On those motors, the park wire runs inside the housing. But as noted, if the park wire is shorted to ground (which can easily happen where it goes through the hole in the case), the motor will run whenever the ignition switch is on. On the motors with the wire inside the housing, I believe the same thing can happen if there is a piece missing from the post on the gear. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Fri Nov 14 16:42:43 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 16:42:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Fot] GT6 Mk III body shell for sale - Appleton WI In-Reply-To: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74EF24DB@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> References: <3D19C37868680F46BA3E66A8945C9C74EF24DB@svr-exch01.mccarty-law.com> Message-ID: New Mexico???????? Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barr, Scott Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 4:17 PM To: fot at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] GT6 Mk III body shell for sale - Appleton WI Hello all, I've got a GT6 Mk III body shell which needs a new home. Originally, this was going to be part of a GT6 racer which I intended to build, but then I found a nice Spitfire to race instead. Then I found another Spitfire racer. And now they're breeding and I need the storage space. The body is from a Texas car which came to me via New Mexico. It is in good shape, with little or no rust, and some small dings from road use, transport and storage. I've got photos I can send. As mentioned above, the shell is in Appleton, Wisconsin. Scott B. Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Nov 14 17:27:09 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 19:27:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lucas Driving Lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200811141927.09930.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 13 November 2008 21:27:09 DLylis at aol.com wrote: > I installed the Lucas knockoff driving lights on my 3A and just today wired > them in with relay, etc. These lights are incredibly poorly focused. Are > they truly just for show? One light makes a broad area of light with a > ring around the outside and the other has a very bright spot at about the > 10:00 o'clock position and the rest is scattered. Had I known this I would > have put them on and not wired them. I have a flashlight that is better > than that! They do nothing for driving. Ergo, a misnomer; driving > lights. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO Dave, I have Raydyots on both my 3 and 4 and they work great. The ones on the 3 came with the project and are vintage 70's. One spot and one fog. The ones on the 4 are different model than the ones on the 3 but I was able to source bulbs from the Little British Car company. They are halogen. Again there is one spot and one fog and with the spot, I can see forever. I can email you a pic if you want to see them mounted. I didnt bother with a relay just wired them with toggle switches mounted on the bottom of the dash. The lights from the 4 were sourced from Ebay. The plan is to get another set of Raydyots for the 6 project, but so far nothing on Ebay. But that project is a long way from needing driving lights at this time! Bob Bob From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 14 20:23:27 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 22:23:27 EST Subject: [TR] Lucas Driving Lights Message-ID: Maybe I was not specific enough. The lights are bright, they just are not focused. Driving lights and fog lights serve two different functions. One is a very focused light and the other is a diffused light. My complaint about these lights is that they are not focused. Having been around in the 60s when it seems like these things were important to the manufacturer a good driving light would shoot out a beam of light far ahead of the vehicle and at the end of the beam of light it was still largely contained on the roadway. These knockoff lights produce a lot of light but around the reach of the regular high beams it becomes ambient light that lights the trees, etc. Driving lights are supposed to be focused to provide reach on the roadway beyond the regular headlights. These lights just kind of brighten up the reach of the regular headlights. I could have done that with 10 gauge wire and relays to the high and low beams on the regular headlights. Driving lights, as they are sold today on modern cars mostly have fluted lenses and you will notice that when you turn them on, they provide an "assist" to the regular headlights as well as better light the shoulders of the road. >From my experience, this is not what they are supposed to do as "driving lights". David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get movies delivered to your mailbox. One month free from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Fri Nov 14 21:55:51 2008 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 20:55:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Oil Pressure 102 Message-ID: <000501c946de$6f6a20c0$4e3e6240$@rr.com> In speaking of oil pressure, all the TR's I've seen tend to have lower oil pressure as they warm up. Now I understand that heat causes metal surfaces to expand, and so I can understand some pressure drop. But I've seen a 30-40 lb drop running from cold to hot. Is such a drop indicative of a "worn" engine? What should be expected? My modern car has an oil pressure gauge, but it doesn't vary by much. Why do TR's? Does running at a higher than recommended 70 PSI cause problems? Why the 70 PSI and not something else? It was mentioned in previous emails that internal engine air pressure would affect oil leaks at the rear seal. If your car "leaves it mark" via the rear seal should internal pressure be suspected? Thanks! Johnnie From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Nov 15 04:00:53 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 06:00:53 EST Subject: [TR] Lucas Driving Lights Message-ID: My impression has been these lights are mostly for that "boy racer "appearance. Here in California it is ilegal (I believe) to drive with them on anyway on the highway, and I don'y know of many off-road TRs. Mike Moore ************** Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=http://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown000000 01) From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 15 06:28:20 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 08:28:20 EST Subject: [TR] Oil Pressure 102 Message-ID: In a message dated 11/14/2008 11:56:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, pdonnel1 at san.rr.com writes: In speaking of oil pressure, all the TR's I've seen tend to have lower oil pressure as they warm up. Now I understand that heat causes metal surfaces to expand, and so I can understand some pressure drop. But I've seen a 30-40 lb drop running from cold to hot. Is such a drop indicative of a "worn" engine? What should be expected? My modern car has an oil pressure gauge, but it doesn't vary by much. Why do TR's? What are the ultimate numbers? 80 - 50 is good, 40 - 10 is not. Also depends somewhat on the oil viscosity you use. The higher second number 10 - 30 vs 20 - 50 is an oil that will respond better to higher temps. Why do TRs? Because they are TRs. Machining tolerances, vulnerabiliy to wear, metalurgy, design, etc is better in modern engines than 40 - 50 year old engines. I have Jeep Cherokee that is at 40 lbs all the time. (except when it is shut off, of course). David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You Rock! One month of free movies delivered by mail from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Nov 15 07:21:03 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 09:21:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil Pressure 102 In-Reply-To: <000501c946de$6f6a20c0$4e3e6240$@rr.com> References: <000501c946de$6f6a20c0$4e3e6240$@rr.com> Message-ID: <200811150921.03434.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 14 November 2008 23:55:51 John & Pat Donnelly wrote: > In speaking of oil pressure, all the TR's I've seen tend to have lower oil > pressure as they warm up. Now I understand that heat causes metal surfaces > to expand, and so I can understand some pressure drop. But I've seen a > 30-40 lb drop running from cold to hot. Is such a drop indicative of a > "worn" engine? What should be expected? My modern car has an oil pressure > gauge, but it doesn't vary by much. Why do TR's? > > > > Does running at a higher than recommended 70 PSI cause problems? Why the 70 > PSI and not something else? > > > > It was mentioned in previous emails that internal engine air pressure would > affect oil leaks at the rear seal. If your car "leaves it mark" via the > rear seal should internal pressure be suspected? > > > > Thanks! > > Johnnie Johnnie, Before I had my 3 engine rebuilt by Matt Bates down at the Triumph Rescue, that is how the 3 engine's oil pressure would be. Starting up from cold, it would be 75 pounds but after the temp ran up to the middle, at idle it would be around 10 maybe getting up to 40 at 3000 rpm. After the rebuild, the pressure is the most constant I have ever seen in this engine. It is 70+ at 1000 - 3000 RPM. I have the idle set to about 800 - 900 and even in the dead of summer the pressure never went below about 65 at idle. I am running Brad Penn 20 -50 racing oil + 1 bottle of STP 4 cyl oil treatment as advised by Matt. The engine was broken in with Brad Penn 30w break in oil with the same oil pressure readings. I rebuilt the engine in the 4 as it required a bit less effort and using the same oil and treatment and its readings are only about 5 - 10 pounds less at idle than the 3. But it never goes below 55 or 60 at speed after warm up. Both engines have the stock oil filter with no oil coolers. Stock cooling systems with a 165 degree thermostats. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Nov 15 07:29:41 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 09:29:41 -0500 Subject: [TR] Lucas Driving Lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200811150929.42149.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 15 November 2008 06:00:53 MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: > My impression has been these lights are mostly for that "boy racer > "appearance. Here in California it is ilegal (I believe) to drive with them > on anyway on the highway, and I don'y know of many off-road TRs. > > Mike Moore > Mike, I remember when I got the Raydyots for the 3 back in the early 70's the box did say they were illegal in California. Is that still true? Even after all regular cars converted to halogen lights years ago? And now some cars (and bikes) have those bluish lights which seem to be very focused and bright. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 15 08:13:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 07:13:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] Lucas Driving Lights In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081115151329.HIUK28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Here in California it is ilegal (I > believe) to drive with them on anyway on the highway, http://www.sidekickoffroad.com/offroadlites.htm seems to have a succinct statement of the situation. Randall From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sat Nov 15 10:45:00 2008 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 12:45:00 EST Subject: [TR] GT6 Overdrive Message-ID: List, As I understand it, the D-type overdrive was supplied with the GT6. I have also heard/read that the J-type was used in the later models. Does anyone know what the break point is? Thanks Sam **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 15 11:40:04 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 13:40:04 -0500 Subject: [TR] Oil Pressure 102 References: <000501c946de$6f6a20c0$4e3e6240$@rr.com> <200811150921.03434.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <3035575AFBD54C4AB68036436F6F6222@userb38463fba5> Maintaining Oil Pressure I'll relay my experience for what it's worth. I have a TR4A that has perhaps 90,000 miles on it. Probably more as I've owned it since 1969 when it had 18,000 miles. It was my only car for 2 years and I drove it a lot. The speedo cable and speedo have been broken numerious times. The engine was rebuilt 20+ years ago but the crankshaft was not cut undersize as it was in good shape and had good journals with very minor scratches. We can debate if I should have cut the crank when I had the opportunity but I didn't. Standard new bearings were used. Fast forward to a few years ago when I was retuning from an approximate 7 hour drive and stopped at the PA / OH line to pay my Turnpike toll. I glanced at my oil pressure and at idle it was 5 pounds. O' my gosh or something more poetic went thru my mind. Revving the engine brought it up to 35/40 pounds and I drove the last 75 miles with my eyes glued on the gauge. Memorial Day weekend was a few weeks away so I decided to drop the pan and look at the bearings. I did and they were worn but not badly worn. The Crank still looked good, at least on the rods. The next thing I looked at was the oil pump and the bottom plate was very badly scored. Out it came. I spent the next several hours with a flat glass and oil soaked emery cloth working the scratches out of the bottom plate of the pump. I had previously sent away for new oil pump internals (doubt very much that the shaft is pinned unfortunately but since the engine is out of the car I'll tend to that this winter). I replaced the rod bearings and installed the reconditioned oil pump with the bottom plate clearances on the tight side. Fired it up and now I have 50 pounds at hot idle and run down the road at 65/70 pounds. I use 20W / 50 oil. The crank is still uncut, my pressure may be better if I'd cut the crank. Moral of the story is having an oil pump with the proper clearances with a bottom plate that is scratch free does wonders for good oil pressure.Those tolerances are important. All the normal disclaimers apply. JVV From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Nov 15 12:13:39 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 14:13:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 Overdrive In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <491ED913.19456.13E73961@localhost> On 15 Nov 2008 at 12:45, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote: > Does anyone > know what the break point is? Uh, the gearbox. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From MMoore8425 at aol.com Sat Nov 15 15:29:23 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 17:29:23 EST Subject: [TR] Lucas Driving Lights Message-ID: In a message dated 11/15/2008 6:29:48 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: Mike, I remember when I got the Raydyots for the 3 back in the early 70's the box did say they were illegal in California. Is that still true? Even after all regular cars converted to halogen lights years ago? And now some cars (and bikes) have those bluish lights which seem to be very focused and bright. Bob I really don't know. Some of the new "blue lights" I find blinding on the freeway and they seem to be legal. In the 60's (and my 20's!) I drove my TR pretty hard and I got lots of tickets for dumb things. I also had several accidents. When my State Farm agent advised me they were no longer interested in my business, and I was faced with the reality of having to get to work somehow, I had to clean up my act. I was forced to be serious about everything illegal I was doing. I even got rid of my red paint job (symbolically repainted it yellow). Driving lights were part of the package as well as my 58 Merc resonantor (no muffler). I even stopped trying to shift at the "P" on "RPM" on the tach. Mike Moore 59 TR3A **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 15 17:13:38 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 16:13:38 -0800 Subject: [TR] IRS rear clunk - RESOLVED! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <91D63FED7C064D34BF67FBBCBB644011@Induninwlaptop> I wanted to follow up and let the group know of an issue I resolved. First, thanks to everyone who has provided help / feedback over the past year I've been hunting the cause of this issue. The car is a 1967 TR4A, IRS; the issue is a rear end clunk upon take-off, shift, and bumps. Having welded in enough extra support and reinforcement to the IRS pins while the frame was bare, I was pretty certain I could cross these off the list of possible causes. I even swapped out a diff unit thinking it was a bad inner bearing (any one need a spare IRS diff??), but still had the issue. It wasn't until I had bought a second hand half shaft and was about to dismantle it to clean and check that I noticed there was absolutely *NO* play in the sliding splines! I checked the axels on the car, and sure enough, you could hear a very faint 'click' when you rotated the halves against each other. Upon further inspection of the donor axle, I found the splines to be heavily smeared with grease. Mine weren't of course because I had cleaned them up nicely and didn't give thought to really packing the grease in. After packing the grease in the spline cavity and reassembling, I had a quiet and smooth riding 4A! Moral of the story - if it slides, rotates, or rubs, pack it full of grease!! Brian 1967 TR4A, no clunk, clink, or clank! From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com Sun Nov 16 08:32:48 2008 From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 07:32:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] [Fot] GT6 Mk III body shell for sale - Appleton WI Message-ID: <33428.44900.qm@web37504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Scott- What are you asking for it? Chad -----Original Message----- From: fot-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Barr, Scott Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 4:17 PM To: fot at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] GT6 Mk III body shell for sale - Appleton WI Hello all, I've got a GT6 Mk III body shell which needs a new home. Originally, this was going to be part of a GT6 racer which I intended to build, but then I found a nice Spitfire to race instead. Then I found another Spitfire racer. And now they're breeding and I need the storage space. The body is from a Texas car which came to me via New Mexico. It is in good shape, with little or no rust, and some small dings from road use, transport and storage. I've got photos I can send. As mentioned above, the shell is in Appleton, Wisconsin. Scott B. Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 16 17:21:35 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 19:21:35 EST Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiper Motor Message-ID: FWIW, After Randall's comment about his recollection of the wiring configuration for the wiper motor, I paid close attention to all the 3s and 3As at a car show this weekend. There was a variation in the wiring configuration from one car to another. There was one other that was exactly like mine, so I hope the advice I gave was applicable to yours. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You Rock! One month of free movies delivered by mail from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 16 17:38:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 16:38:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR-3 Wiper Motor In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081117003843.JXSY7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > There was a variation in the wiring configuration from one > car to another. Which was all I meant by my reply, David. Not that you were wrong, but that they aren't all the same. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Nov 16 19:59:59 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 21:59:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] front fender to filter clearance? Message-ID: <001201c94860$95d64e40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I am installing new & different air filters on my SU H6's. Unfortuneatly, now that it's installed I see that there maybe a problem. With the my new large new filters mounted I can tell that the new chrome filter for the front carb maybe too close to it's inner fender. When the engine torques and moves in it's compartment it may hit the inner fender. The distance between the fender and the front air filter is about 1". How much room between these surfaces should I allow? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From mrv8q at aim.com Sun Nov 16 20:11:25 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 22:11:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] front fender to filter clearance? In-Reply-To: <001201c94860$95d64e40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001201c94860$95d64e40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8CB16794FA75072-120C-AA6@MBLK-M14.sysops.aol.com> Paul, I'm running K&Ns on my 3A; they're shaped like large tuna fish cans. There's approx. 1/16th inch between the front filter and the inner fender. There has been some slight rubbing over the past 3 years, but nothing too terrible. It might help that I've also have new motor mounts. I know K&N makes a beveled filter that wouldn't rub, but I don't know the number; MOSS does carry it, though..... Best, Kevin Browne From nogera at worldnet.att.net Sun Nov 16 20:20:31 2008 From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (Bob Nogueira) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 21:20:31 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Rebuild Message-ID: <36D9C0CF6C3143369B8D4210CB1D3FC8@Carroom> I'm starting the rebuild of a spare TR 3 engine from spares parts that I have accumulated over the years and have a few questions that I hope the list can help me with some of them. 1. Ten years ago I had a valve job done and remember reading about differences in the either the valves or guides. What are the options and recommendations when having a valve job done? 2. Since I have two heads from which to choose for the engine could someone advise me of what to consider in choosing which to rebuild. Based on TeriAnn's excellent webpage, one of the heads is a TR 4 with the flat area over intake #1 and chamfer on the port side of the combustion chamber. The other is a late TR 3A head, has the diagonal slant under the thermostat housing but does not have the raised flat over the #1 intake. Are the valves and springs inter changeable between theses two heads ? 2. Among my collection of parts I noticed pistons with three rings and some with four rings, one oil ring being below the wrist pin. When did this change occur and what are the pros and cons of each. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated Bob Nogueira From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Nov 16 21:03:45 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 21:03:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] front fender to filter clearance? In-Reply-To: <8CB16794FA75072-120C-AA6@MBLK-M14.sysops.aol.com> References: <001201c94860$95d64e40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <8CB16794FA75072-120C-AA6@MBLK-M14.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7bb181af0811162003i7831e346xea070ea48651523b@mail.gmail.com> Be sure you have good ground connections. I recall my first TR3A had chrome filters with about 1/4" clearance... cranking the engine with the solenoid button one night in the apt parking lot I saw a big spark arcing between the front air cleaner and the inner wing. Yikes! Geo On 11/16/08, mrv8q at aim.com wrote: > Paul, I'm running K&Ns on my 3A; they're shaped like large tuna fish cans. > There's approx. > > 1/16th inch between the front filter and the inner fender. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 16 22:58:33 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2008 21:58:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Rebuild In-Reply-To: <36D9C0CF6C3143369B8D4210CB1D3FC8@Carroom> Message-ID: <20081117055833.KOAB14434.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > 1. Ten years ago I had a valve job done and remember reading > about differences in the either the valves or guides. What > are the options and recommendations when having a valve job done? Not sure if you are talking about the change in exhaust valve stem diameter; or the aftermarket bronze valve guides. If the valves and guides are in good shape, I'd keep them. But if you have to change, my suggestion would be to go with the later 5/16" stems (same size as the intakes); which will require a special "conversion" guide (readily available from the usual suspects) to use in an early head. I would also go with cast iron guides rather than the bronze ones. In theory the cast iron will wear faster, but in practice they last plenty long enough. And the bronze ones have to be reamed oversize anyway, to prevent differential expansion from causing the valves to hang up when hot; which sorta negates the benefit of the slower wear. > 2. Since I have two heads from which to choose for the engine could > someone advise me of what to consider in choosing which to > rebuild. Personally, I'd go for the one in the best condition. The TR3 head will give you a little higher compression (meaning a bit more power and fuel economy, but possibly requiring premium gasoline); but it's easy to adjust that either way if you want. Also a good idea IMO to follow some of the modifications in the Competition Preparation manual, especially the part about cutting away the sharp corners exposed to combustion. > Are the valves and springs inter changeable between theses two heads ? The only difference in valves might be the exhaust stem diameter, as above. I say "might" because your TR3 head may have already been serviced with the later valves, and I'm not sure if your TR4 head would have them as original or not. The springs interchange as long as you keep the matching shims with them. However, most likely you will want to replace them anyway. At least have them tested for seat pressure. > 2. Among my collection of parts I noticed pistons with three > rings and some with four rings, one oil ring being below the > wrist pin. When did this change occur and what are the pros > and cons of each. Beats me. I thought the original pistons were always 3-ring. Randall From chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com Mon Nov 17 00:08:52 2008 From: chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com (Chris Buckley) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 09:08:52 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Rebuild In-Reply-To: <20081117055833.KOAB14434.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <36D9C0CF6C3143369B8D4210CB1D3FC8@Carroom> <20081117055833.KOAB14434.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: I think the pistons with 4 rings may be for the tractor engine. Chris Buckley Ngala Lodge P O Box 1 Ngala Nkhotakota Malawi Tel: +265 (0) 1259 395 Mobile: +265 (0) 8192003 Website: www.ngalabeachlodge.co.za -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: 17 November 2008 07:59 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Engine Rebuild > 1. Ten years ago I had a valve job done and remember reading > about differences in the either the valves or guides. What > are the options and recommendations when having a valve job done? Not sure if you are talking about the change in exhaust valve stem diameter; or the aftermarket bronze valve guides. If the valves and guides are in good shape, I'd keep them. But if you have to change, my suggestion would be to go with the later 5/16" stems (same size as the intakes); which will require a special "conversion" guide (readily available from the usual suspects) to use in an early head. I would also go with cast iron guides rather than the bronze ones. In theory the cast iron will wear faster, but in practice they last plenty long enough. And the bronze ones have to be reamed oversize anyway, to prevent differential expansion from causing the valves to hang up when hot; which sorta negates the benefit of the slower wear. > 2. Since I have two heads from which to choose for the engine could > someone advise me of what to consider in choosing which to > rebuild. Personally, I'd go for the one in the best condition. The TR3 head will give you a little higher compression (meaning a bit more power and fuel economy, but possibly requiring premium gasoline); but it's easy to adjust that either way if you want. Also a good idea IMO to follow some of the modifications in the Competition Preparation manual, especially the part about cutting away the sharp corners exposed to combustion. > Are the valves and springs inter changeable between theses two heads ? The only difference in valves might be the exhaust stem diameter, as above. I say "might" because your TR3 head may have already been serviced with the later valves, and I'm not sure if your TR4 head would have them as original or not. The springs interchange as long as you keep the matching shims with them. However, most likely you will want to replace them anyway. At least have them tested for seat pressure. > 2. Among my collection of parts I noticed pistons with three > rings and some with four rings, one oil ring being below the > wrist pin. When did this change occur and what are the pros > and cons of each. Beats me. I thought the original pistons were always 3-ring. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com http://www.team.net/archive From chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com Mon Nov 17 00:13:56 2008 From: chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com (Chris Buckley) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 09:13:56 +0200 Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Rebuild In-Reply-To: <36D9C0CF6C3143369B8D4210CB1D3FC8@Carroom> References: <36D9C0CF6C3143369B8D4210CB1D3FC8@Carroom> Message-ID: <6F08878070284D8C8C31D67B1B0CA441@chrisPC> Regarding the 4 ring pistons, I understand they can be used with or without the bottom oil ring. Chris Buckley Ngala Lodge P O Box 1 Ngala Nkhotakota Malawi Tel: +265 (0) 1259 395 Mobile: +265 (0) 8192003 Website: www.ngalabeachlodge.co.za -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Nogueira Sent: 17 November 2008 05:21 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Rebuild I'm starting the rebuild of a spare TR 3 engine from spares parts that I have accumulated over the years and have a few questions that I hope the list can help me with some of them. 1. Ten years ago I had a valve job done and remember reading about differences in the either the valves or guides. What are the options and recommendations when having a valve job done? 2. Since I have two heads from which to choose for the engine could someone advise me of what to consider in choosing which to rebuild. Based on TeriAnn's excellent webpage, one of the heads is a TR 4 with the flat area over intake #1 and chamfer on the port side of the combustion chamber. The other is a late TR 3A head, has the diagonal slant under the thermostat housing but does not have the raised flat over the #1 intake. Are the valves and springs inter changeable between theses two heads ? 2. Among my collection of parts I noticed pistons with three rings and some with four rings, one oil ring being below the wrist pin. When did this change occur and what are the pros and cons of each. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated Bob Nogueira This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as chris.ngala at iwayafrica.com http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Mon Nov 17 04:28:48 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 06:28:48 EST Subject: [TR] front fender to filter clearance? Message-ID: 1". I have K&Ns and that is how it is with mine. No problem. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You Rock! One month of free movies delivered by mail from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From steven at newellboys.net Mon Nov 17 08:30:47 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:30:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] front fender to filter clearance? In-Reply-To: <001201c94860$95d64e40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001201c94860$95d64e40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <49218E27.6080500@newellboys.net> dorpaul wrote: >I am installing new & different air filters on my SU H6's. With the my new large filters mounted I can tell that the new chrome filter for the front carb maybe too close to it's inner fender. When the engine torques and moves in it's compartment it may hit the inner fender. > The distance between the fender and the front air filter is about 1". How much room between these surfaces should I allow? > The fellow who owned my car from '64-'98 ran a few SCCA races way back in the days before I was born. He had a similar problem with the fit of larger-than-stock air filters, and solved it the way I've heard some other club racers did -- with a Big Fender Hammer. My long-ago bashed dimple allows about 1 1/2" of clearance for my K&N housing. Before the bashing, I'd guess there was only 1/2" clearance. I'm not endorsing fender bashing, and if I were you I would wait and see what happens when you run the car. Your 1" might be plenty. Steven "what you call a bashed-in dent, I call patina" Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 From jat1127 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 17 13:50:23 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:50:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: Listers, It has been many years since I have rebuilt a "TR" (tr2-4) series motor but in racing them myself and making a few for others we used the simple recipe from Kastner. I know we milled the heads, all TR3 type, .90 thou and spent a good deal of time polishing the chambers and cutting in the edge facing the valves. We used two different Isky cams, maybe models 666 and 777, it was long ago?? and also a model from a company in Bedford MA, their timing was slightly retarded depending on the motors speed range. All parts were well polished and WELL balanced. Once we ahd a package we ran some dyno tests in Barrs in Glastonbury CT. The motors ran low130ish with the "small" Isky and upper 130ish (138) hpish with the larger. Most of the motors were 2138 and perhaps one or two 1991cc. They lasted forever. I ran one in a TR3 street car for years. Yes, we did take more off some heads heading for .150 and we never tested one but they had lots of power. If anyone is building a TR series motor I ask... why leave it stock? A weee bit more work and only a few more dollars gives plenty more fun! We also did a setup of air pressure lever arm shocks. Just a couple of pounds of air in a remote reservoir that also gave some extra fluid capacity. It worked? as we had it but never took it to far. Great funJohn John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Get 5 GB of storage with Windows Live Hotmail. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_5gb_1120 08 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon Nov 17 14:13:44 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 16:13:44 EST Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: In a message dated 11/17/2008 12:51:49 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, jat1127 at hotmail.com writes: If anyone is building a TR series motor I ask... why leave it stock? I think it depends on what you want to do with the car. When I rebuilt my TR3 engine, I used a TR4 head with big valves, a big cam and I had 90mm pistons made and bored the sleeves in the block. I had the flywheel lightened and balanced everything . I actually miss the old 83 mm engine and the relatively smooth idle and easy starting I used to have. I now have to worry about pinging more than before. I use my car for touring only. More likely than not, I'm with a club. I'm a careful driver and tend to stay close to the speed limits. I would not have spent the money for all the gee whiz stuff if I knew then what I know now. Obviously, if I were racing or autocrossing, it would be a different story. I'm becoming a fan of "stock is best" thinking any more. Mike Moore '59 TR3A **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From fishplate at charter.net Mon Nov 17 14:28:45 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 16:28:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20081117212908.BIAI3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 03:50 PM 11/17/2008, you wrote: > If anyone is building a TR series motor I ask... why leave it stock? I'm told my TR6 had the head shaved for 9:1 compression and was bored 0.030" over. I don't know if it has a hotter cam or not, but it's got stock carburation. I've not yet got all the kinks out (it sat for several years undriven) but it's nice and strong. My Spitfire 1500 will get balanced, and dual SUs and the Euro cast exhaust manifold. A bit of porting, a dab of polishing, maybe a little less rotating mass... All I use it for is Stoplight Grand Prix, and here in Jawja I don't stand a chance against trucks that could run over me and not feel a thing, so there's not much point in sinking a lot of bux into a car to make it less driveable...but it won't be as it left the factory, if that's what you mean. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 17 15:10:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 14:10:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <655E0EC9236C410493452F799601D27F@jdnet.deere.com> > If anyone is building a TR series motor I ask... why leave it stock? Used to be you could buy 100+ octane fuel on almost any street corner; now it borders on impossible (and illegal). MMT is a lot harder to find than it used to be, as well. And the pills Mother gives you don't do anything at all. Most people today are building TR engines for show, not go ... So why not leave it stock? Get better gas mileage that way anyway ... Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Nov 17 15:18:43 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 17:18:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: <20081117171843.BRT96017@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> MMoore wrote: > Obviously, if I were racing or autocrossing, it would be a > different story. I'm becoming a fan of "stock is best" > thinking any more. I can't say I'd prefer stock over something different, simply because that something different might be an improvement in ways other than pure performance. But I've always subscribed to MM's usage statement. Unless I'm competing, a small improvement in absolute performance isn't significant one way or the other. I do appreciate the GT6's power advantage over the Spitfire for some situations. But as long as performance is sufficient (and it is for the Spitfire), I refuse to worry about it. It's still fun to drive, but the real point is this. Were I to wish for another 0.5sec off the 0-60 times, I might as well wish for another 0.5sec off that, and other 0.5sec off that, and other 0.5sec off that. I'd soon run out of wish juice, not to mention money. Better to enjoy it as-is. -- Jim Muller, wishing for a new DBS, not expecting one '70 GT6+, red and virile '80 Spitfire 1500, white and white-haired From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Nov 17 15:24:02 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 17:24:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: <20081117172402.BRT97296@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > I'm told my TR6 had the head shaved for 9:1 compression and > was bored Even after all that? Oh, you mean the *car* was bored. Clearly it didn't get out enough! -- Jim Muller, whose cars generally aren't bored if I can help it From DLylis at aol.com Mon Nov 17 19:03:40 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 21:03:40 EST Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: In a message dated 11/17/2008 5:20:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: Better to enjoy it as-is. Then why not put a little scoot into it and enjoy it that way as-is? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You Rock! One month of free movies delivered by mail from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From mrv8q at aim.com Mon Nov 17 21:05:33 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 23:05:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] front fender to filter clearance? In-Reply-To: <002001c94927$881d8d00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001201c94860$95d64e40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> <8CB16794FA75072-120C-AA6@MBLK-M14.sysops.aol.com> <002001c94927$881d8d00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <8CB174A09E49651-E48-1FF9@webmail-da16.sysops.aol.com> 15/16 seems like a lot of movement to me..... thanks!B I guess when one rev's the motor, then the 1/16" gap might open to a 1" gap temporairly, and then not go much except back to it's starting place. Don't you agree?B PaulB From DLylis at aol.com Tue Nov 18 05:02:29 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 07:02:29 EST Subject: [TR] front fender to filter clearance? Message-ID: Paul, Way too much movement. Check your motor mounts. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You Rock! One month of free movies delivered by mail from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From PeterSchop at aol.com Tue Nov 18 12:15:22 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 14:15:22 EST Subject: [TR] What size thrust washers do I need? Message-ID: I measured my crankshaft end float the other day and found it to be just under .012". I would like to get the end float closer to .005" so I dropped the pan, took off the rear main bearing cap and removed the thrust washers. What I found was one marked "STD" and measured at .090" which showed a lot of wear and the other marked "+030" that measured .122" and showed very little wear. I believe that STD should be .092" ? I have read online that the front washer should not change size because it gets very little wear and you don't want to move the crankshaft out of place. I have also been told that both the washers should be the same size so to center the crankshaft which also makes sense. TRF sells sets of thrust washers at STD, +.005", +.015" and +.030" which I believe both washers in set are the same size. Now I would like to reduce my end play from just under .012" to just over .005" which means I have to add .006" to my thrust washers. In order to do that I need a total of .218" with both thrust washers measured together. I like the idea of using Scott Helms's solid bronze thrust washer. I could have a .096" made and my use my .122" or if the front should not change I could use a STD .092" and make a .0126" or if the crankshaft should be centered, have two .109" made, all which would equal .218" Oh, one more thing, TRF's list at $6.95 a set and Scott's are $20 each and are probably worth every penny of it. If you still follow me, any comments as to which way to go? TIA Peter Schoppelry TR6 '69 **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From diggle at clear.net.nz Tue Nov 18 12:23:10 2008 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Diggle) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:23:10 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR4 starter Message-ID: I have seen a new Lucas starter on New Zealands Trademwe site, model no LRS101C. Is this the correct starter for a TR4? Jim and his 1962 TR4 From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue Nov 18 12:24:21 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 14:24:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Isn't there a middle road here? Mike may have gone beyond what most have done, with 90mm pistons and all, but as with other parts of the car, we have the opportunity to repair/refurbish with an upgrade. Just as it is easy for me to talk myself into braided stainless flexible brake lines and better bushings, I can convince myself to move to the later, slimmer stem exhaust valves and add a port-and-polish. I have a TR4 with 10.5:1 compression. The car came that way, and I only discovered it when I buretted the head. I have 87mm pistons, a smooth idle, a stock flywheel that I may lighten a little, and plenty of zip - or should I say Zest. I do buy Premium gas. Brian Jones TR4 1963 CT14455-L Valley Forge, PA From diggle at clear.net.nz Tue Nov 18 12:36:34 2008 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Diggle) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:36:34 +1300 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: Here's my 2 cents worth. I was going to eventually get my friend, the engine reconditioner, to redo the motor, which is in good condition and does not need rebuiding, so that I could install 91mm pistons etc etc and get at least 130HP out of my TR4. Well my wife wanted her own little sports car so I had a look at my mates Hnda Del sol Sir DOHC Vtec 170HP 1600cc rocket ship with electric roof that folds into the boot and bought her one. That car motors, 0-60 MPH in 6.8 secs. No TR will do that and still drive like a normal car in city traffic. Don't get me wrong the Honda has not got the soul and class of my TR and is nowhere as pretty. For now a relatively standard TR is just fine, think of all the money I would have spent. Jim and his 1962 TR4 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Nov 18 16:00:43 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 18:00:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] What size thrust washers do I need? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <61F7CFD7882E4C569217A3CCD55E7042@BOBSNEWPC> Peter............I can't help with the size question but I've heard good things about this new thrust washer design http://www.customthrustwashers.com/ Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PeterSchop at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 2:15 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] What size thrust washers do I need? I measured my crankshaft end float the other day and found it to be just under .012". I would like to get the end float closer to .005" so I dropped the pan, took off the rear main bearing cap and removed the thrust washers. What I found was one marked "STD" and measured at .090" which showed a lot of wear and the other marked "+030" that measured .122" and showed very little wear. I believe that STD should be .092" ? I have read online that the front washer should not change size because it gets very little wear and you don't want to move the crankshaft out of place. I have also been told that both the washers should be the same size so to center the crankshaft which also makes sense. TRF sells sets of thrust washers at STD, +.005", +.015" and +.030" which I believe both washers in set are the same size. Now I would like to reduce my end play from just under .012" to just over .005" which means I have to add .006" to my thrust washers. In order to do that I need a total of .218" with both thrust washers measured together. I like the idea of using Scott Helms's solid bronze thrust washer. I could have a .096" made and my use my .122" or if the front should not change I could use a STD .092" and make a .0126" or if the crankshaft should be centered, have two .109" made, all which would equal .218" Oh, one more thing, TRF's list at $6.95 a set and Scott's are $20 each and are probably worth every penny of it. If you still follow me, any comments as to which way to go? TIA Peter Schoppelry TR6 '69 **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redi r=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 18 16:10:37 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 15:10:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0D95C11191E149D0A89F1A1FB9DF5913@jdnet.deere.com> > and add a port-and-polish. Be careful with that, Brian. I've heard many times now that it's easy to actually make things worse in that department, if you don't know exactly what you are doing. Polishing in particular can actually increase resistance to flow and lead to drivability problems, because the "as cast" surface creates a boundary layer that eases air flow, while fuel tends to stick to the polished surface. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 18 16:20:15 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 15:20:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 starter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > I have seen a new Lucas starter on New Zealands Trademwe > site, model no > LRS101C. > Is this the correct starter for a TR4? Seems unlikely to me. http://www.mijnwebwinkel.be/winkel/autoelectric/?menu=article&categoryID=130 620&articleID=1165158 shows it fits Spitfire and TR6; and I'm pretty sure a TR4 starter won't fit a TR6. But I don't know what the difference is, so I could be wrong. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 18 16:28:09 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 15:28:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] What size thrust washers do I need? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5F66EA4DAB704FFBB8ECD57683130499@jdnet.deere.com> > If you still follow me, > any comments as > to which way to go? FWIW (very little), I don't believe that moving the crank fore/aft by .010" is going to make any difference to anything. I've always heard it's OK to mix/match thrust washer sizes to get the right clearance. Also FWIW, I feel a better solution is to have the cap machined to take a second thrust insert, which halves the pressure (per unit area), rather than Scott's solution of using a harder bearing material. I believe machining the cap is recommended by people like Kas Kastner and Greg Solow. It's also what Triumph used on earlier engines (like the TR2-4A) which never seem to have thrust washer problems. But it's certainly more expensive than just stuffing in some bronze washers. Just my $.01 worth Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Nov 18 17:31:34 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:31:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <362427351.586721227054694062.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> As ever, have followed with interest the posts around improvements of the Triumph engines to gain more horsepower, etc.B Must say, as a daily driver who is only held back in recent days by frosty windshields and a heater problem I haven't had time to ferret out, that my stock '59 TR3A accelerates and cruises at OD speeds that are not the best examples for my 14 year old, who tells me about practically every car he sees that it's the car he wants. What do you think is best for a high school kid with proneness for personal mayhem?B ...I'm guessing vintage VW bug with a bad cylinder. At any rate, back to topic, the performance issue I have with my stock TR3A is not being able to slow down, not speed up.B I have a perverse glee in kicking into the fast lane when I get onto InterState '93 on my way to work and passing frauders in high performance cars with new plates.B I even hesitate to confess that I laugh at cars in the breakdown lane that are 40 years newerB than mine, a lesson I should have learned on the Grapevine near Bakersfield, when my father's truck passed other Macks stalled and overheated, only to break down ourselves some miles down the road.B But apparently I need to learn that lesson again. So...I stand with the stockers.B It's not what's under the hood, it's who's behind the wheel.B Say, what ABOUT thoseB maniacs in SUV's who speed up when you try to pass them on the few straightaways on Route 3A????? Just my two cents worth.... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From DLylis at aol.com Tue Nov 18 18:17:49 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 20:17:49 EST Subject: [TR] What size thrust washers do I need? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/18/2008 6:28:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Just my $.01 worth Randall Wow, the economy is worse than I thought. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You Rock! One month of free movies delivered by mail from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue Nov 18 18:21:16 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 20:21:16 EST Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: In a message dated 11/18/2008 4:34:05 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: So...I stand with the stockers.B It's not what's under the hood, it's who's behind the wheel.B My thoughts also Terry. I somehow rent a lot of Chevy Impalas. I had an Impala SS this summer which i enjoyed greatly. After a couple of weeks, I got used to it though. A few weeks later I had a regular Impala-not so hot, but not noticeable. My point is , there just isn't enough horsepower no matter what you do-you get used to whatever you have. Mike Moore **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From skip47 at clearwire.net Tue Nov 18 18:39:44 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 17:39:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. References: Message-ID: Mike Moore wrote: ...My point is , there just isn't enough horsepower no matter what > you do-you get used to whatever you have. > > Mike Moore I agree. Mark Donohue said: "You have enough power when you're spinning the rear wheels at the end of the longest straight". He was used to that in Can-am. I can do it in a very tight autocross. Maybe it's because the car hooks up so well? Nah, just not enough power. Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Nov 18 19:45:22 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 21:45:22 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 starter Message-ID: In a message dated 11/18/2008 6:20:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > I have seen a new Lucas starter on New Zealands Trademwe > site, model no > LRS101C. > Is this the correct starter for a TR4? Seems unlikely to me. http://www.mijnwebwinkel.be/winkel/autoelectric/?menu=article&categoryID=130 620&articleID=1165158 shows it fits Spitfire and TR6; and I'm pretty sure a TR4 starter won't fit a TR6. But I don't know what the difference is, so I could be wrong. ==AM== Size is the difference. Spitfire, GT6, Herald and TR250/early TR6 use the model M35G starter, with 3.5" diameter yoke. The TR3/4 starter was a model M418G (4.125" diameter yoke). --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 18 20:30:07 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 22:30:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <492341EF.5135.2520D3E6@localhost> On 18 Nov 2008 at 17:39, Skip Gurnee wrote: > Mike Moore wrote: > ...My point is, there just isn't enough horsepower no matter what > > you do-you get used to whatever you have. > I agree... followed eventually by > Nah, just not enough power. Interesting example of the ambituity of ideas. "Getting used to whatever you have" can mean getting used to less (less than what? than some ideal standard?) so that one ceases to feel the loss. In other words, you become happy with what you've got. This is how I interpreted Mike's comment. Or it can mean getting so used to more (presumably more than the car had before you spent money on upgrades!) that you no longer feel it is special. In other words, you are no longer happy with it. This is what Skip seems to be saying. What's a bloke to think? On an absolute scale, the faster car sure is faster. On a subjective scale there is no difference unless the difference is big and the driver is familiar enough with the possibilities to notice. Just my $0.005, of course. (David Lylis, the economy is even more worse than you thought. But it's all subjective. :-) -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 18 20:54:23 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 22:54:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: <362427351.586721227054694062.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: Message-ID: <4923479F.7505.25370D2B@localhost> On 19 Nov 2008 at 0:31, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > What do you think is best for a high school kid with proneness > for personal mayhem? ...I'm guessing vintage VW bug with a > bad cylinder. Donno' about that. I had a younger brother who rolled a Bug back in the 70's. He walked away, fortunately. At the time I wouldn't have pegged him as prone to personal mayhem, but then, I wouldn't have judged the Bug harshly on those grounds either. > I even hesitate to confess that I laugh at cars in the breakdown > lane that are 40 years newer than mine,... It's not what's > under the hood, it's who's behind the wheel. This is a timely discussion in that lately I've been contemplating why I enjoy driving the GT6 to work. Given the choice between the GT6, the Spitfire, and the Caravan, I'd pick the GT6 every time. I'm not sure I know the answer. Well, I do know the Spitfire's issues, that danged gearbox oil dripping on the exhaust pipe. Plus it's not as pretty inside or out. The GT6 has a charm that isn't easily identified. The Caravan is faster, quieter, smoother, and its radio is better. Okay, it responds slightly slower to loud pedal input and requires no shifting. But ut hugs its lane on the highway just as well. Sure, nobody gives me a thumbs-up when I'm driving the Caravan but that's not the charm of the GT6. I just know that I'm happy when I get into it, fire it up, drive away. I'm always disappointed when something makes me take the Caravan instead. The thought of driving the GT6 makes me feel good. Don't really know why. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Nov 18 20:59:14 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 22:59:14 -0500 Subject: [TR] the GT6 gearbox Message-ID: <492348C2.3574.253B7D76@localhost> Speaking of the GT6, the noise emanating from the gearbox, mostly 2nd gear, seems to be getting louder. I'm thinking I might pull it again (I've had plenty of practice!) and rebuild it. I can follow repair manual instructions as well as anyone, but it's one job I've never done before. Anything special I should be aware of? Tanks, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From AA00727 at aol.com Tue Nov 18 21:26:21 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 23:26:21 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb float overflow Message-ID: The rear carb on my TR 3 vents gas out the overflow / vent tube. We have replaced the float valve three times but the problem will not go away. A gentle massage to the side of the bowl with a hammer usually stops it for a while. Could there be too much pressure from the stock fuel pump? Anyone encountered this? Gary B **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) From wbeech at flash.net Tue Nov 18 21:50:31 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 21:50:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb float overflow In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gary, Sounds more like your valve is sticking. Pull the top off, everything should move VERY freely and be clear from any debris. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of AA00727 at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 9:26 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb float overflow The rear carb on my TR 3 vents gas out the overflow / vent tube. We have replaced the float valve three times but the problem will not go away. A gentle massage to the side of the bowl with a hammer usually stops it for a while. Could there be too much pressure from the stock fuel pump? Anyone encountered this? Gary B **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redi r=htt p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.4/1795 - Release Date: 11/18/2008 8:59 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 18 22:08:46 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 21:08:46 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb float overflow In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081119050846.FZZE6004.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Could there be too much pressure from the stock fuel pump? If that was the problem, your "percussive maintenance" wouldn't stop the overflow. In addition to Bill's suggestion, I would replace the soft fuel lines. You may have one that is failing internally, and shedding bits of itself into the fuel. When a bit gets caught in the float valve, it blocks the valve open. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 19 01:01:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:01:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: <362427351.586721227054694062.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <20081119080110.VJAI27329.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Say, what ABOUT thoseB maniacs in SUV's who speed up when you > try to pass them on the few straightaways on Route 3A????? That's precisely where you need a bit extra 'grunt' ... pass them before they know what happened ! Randall From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Nov 19 04:23:23 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 11:23:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb float overflow Message-ID: <111920081123.5168.4923F72B00044F7D000014302216557996970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: AA00727 at aol.com > The rear carb on my TR 3 vents gas out the overflow / vent tube. We have > replaced the float valve three times but the problem will not go away. A gentle > massage to the side of the bowl with a hammer usually stops it for a while. > > Could there be too much pressure from the stock fuel pump? Have you checked the float in the offending carb to see if it has gas in it? I have seen a number of them fail like that, and a heavier float doesn't float up and close the needle valve as well. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From DLylis at aol.com Wed Nov 19 05:20:21 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 07:20:21 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 Carb float overflow Message-ID: Is this all the time? Unpredictably intermittent? After the car sits for a while? I have heard similar complaints; had them myself, and the blame tends to go to ethanol in the fuel, but I am not sure that I buy that. All the time may mean, as had been pointed out, that there is gas in the float. Intermittent may mean that there is piece of debris in the chamber that finds its way in the way every so often. Also previously mentioned. I have the 'after the car sits for a while' problem and opening the bowl reveals a little gummy stuff that keeps it from working properly. My bet is that since it is only and always one carb that you have a leaking float with gas in it. You don't even need to take the carbs off or disconnect the lines to check it out. I prefer the rap on top of the hex that hold the cover rather than the side. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You Rock! One month of free movies delivered by mail from blockbuster.com (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer) From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed Nov 19 06:14:08 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:14:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: > and add a port-and-polish. Be careful with that, Brian. I've heard many times now that it's easy to actually make things worse in that department, if you don't know exactly what you are doing. Polishing in particular can actually increase resistance to flow and lead to drivability problems, because the "as cast" surface creates a boundary layer that eases air flow, while fuel tends to stick to the polished surface. Randall Indeed. I performed the combustion chamber work per Kastner's book. For the ports, I was guided by Uncle Jack, who shared with me the work that can be done reliably, without a flow bench, for most of the gain, and steered clear of the great deal of effort required for any subsequent benefit. For inlets, you remove the two main cast-in obstructions and then leave the reshaped surfaces rough. This roughness aids fuel atomisation and creates a layer of stable air close to that surface that then eases gas flow through the port. For exhaust ports, the advice is to smooth the short side of the throat and then polish all surfaces to inhibit carbon buildup. I have the early TR4 short log-like inlet manifold. Passing through this, gasses are required to navigate two 90 degree corners, with sharp edges and dead spaces. It is improved by rounding corners as much as the material allows, but being sure not to widen the 'bore'. One can read of gasket matching, or better, port matching, however Uncle Jack advised against this and I left the manifold ports alone. One area I did find for obvious improvement was the fitting of the insulating gasket to the carburettor. I marked the orientation of my insulating gaskets and put stud-diameter pegs in the carb's plate in place of the studs and then fitted the gaskets to the carburettors only. Both gaskets were off centre with respect to each carburettor. I had the same result with respect to the manifold, with gasket 'intruding' maybe a quarter-inch into the throat of the inlet. A few minutes with a dremel on the insulator removed this obstruction. Brian From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Wed Nov 19 07:50:37 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 09:50:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Teenager vehicle Message-ID: Terry, in talking with my insurance guy a few years back, he told me the least expensive thing to insure a teenager on is an old pickup truck. I had a daughter coming up with a son two years behind her, so needed something rugged I figured. I also insisted they learn to drive a standard so bought an 87 Mazda B2000 longbox for $900. Around here, 87 and prior are exempt from emissions testing. It has 30x,000 km on it and still runs fine. Exhaust is now falling off, box is pretty rusty (thinking of converting to a flatbed if I ever have spare time, ha ha ha), but it's a 5 speed, and totally un-cool. It did the job, and he was right, the insurance was OK, as long as I could keep everyone from being a principal driver. That happened for a couple of months (constant change of # of vehicles on the road vs. people living here for a while) and the bill was suddenly $4K/year, so we changed things. Anyway.....funny side effects I hadn't counted on: 1. The daughter, mad as blazes about having to learn a standard at first, adapts, and her social status is greatly elevated, as hardly anyone she knows can drive a standard. Her friends are all mightily impressed. Now, with a few years under her belt, she much prefers it, as she can feel the road etc. In fact she has become a very good driver. She went throught the inevitable (for around here) deer collision, which only took off a mirror, lucky her (really lucky; last weekend I hit one in the company Fusion causing $11K damage), and I was glad she was in something a little bit tough. Well, it has a frame at least. 2. There's only room for two. Think about it. 3. I thought my son, a practical boy, would recognize the value of being able to transport his drums around (it has a cap) and get into gigging with some group, to earn some bread. Couldn't care less! Couldn't be bothered to learn a stickshift - not worth the hassle. Boy when I was his age I would do anything to get out of the house. And the benefit I had counted on of course - it's really handy for me! Jim ------------------- What do you think is best for a high school kid with proneness for personal mayhem?B ...I'm guessing vintage VW bug with a bad cylinder Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Wed Nov 19 07:58:59 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 09:58:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] Teenager vehicle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83B46BD1-B6BE-4408-B665-C112B6847415@mindspring.com> How about a Rabbit diesel? Slow? check Manual? check Ashford Little '70 TR6 From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Wed Nov 19 08:04:49 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 10:04:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Teenager vehicle In-Reply-To: <83B46BD1-B6BE-4408-B665-C112B6847415@mindspring.com> References: <83B46BD1-B6BE-4408-B665-C112B6847415@mindspring.com> Message-ID: I left out that I targeted Japanese for reliabilty; I have enough on my plate already. (Lest you think I am disparaging a VW's reliability, well, there are two in the fleet here.....) Not to say the Mazda hasn't needed the odd thing. Jim Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> wrote: > How about a Rabbit diesel? > > Slow? check > Manual? check > > > Ashford Little From jmcoh at comcast.net Wed Nov 19 08:26:42 2008 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 10:26:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Teenager car Message-ID: <005601c94a5b$399c6540$acd52fc0$@net> Terry, I am a big proponent for the Subaru as the best teen car, especially where we live. It is super reliable, gets in the mid 20s for gas mileage and the AWD can't be beat in the snow and ice. It is not unusual to see them running around with 175k on them. I bought a 97 outback wagon for my 16 yo daughter and she loves it. It has 134 k and we have put nothing into it other than routine maintenance. I would recommend any car you buy for a teen have ABS and front airbags for safety because they will make mistakes. Don't spend a lot because they will hit things. Not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. I have been thru this twice so I speak from experience. John Cohen Rutland VT 76 TR6 http://www.triumphowners.com/701 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Nov 19 08:34:47 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 10:34:47 EST Subject: [TR] Teenager car Message-ID: In a message dated 11/19/2008 7:27:26 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, jmcoh at comcast.net writes: Terry, I am a big proponent for the Subaru as the best teen car, especially where we live. It is super reliable, gets in the mid 20s for gas mileage and the AWD can't be beat in the snow and ice. It is not unusual to see them running around with 175k on them. I bought a 97 outback wagon for my 16 yo daughter and she loves it. It has 134 k and we have put nothing into it other than routine maintenance. I would recommend any car you buy for a teen have ABS and front airbags for safety because they will make mistakes. Don't spend a lot because they will hit things. Not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. I have been thru this twice so I speak from experience. I was about to suggest the same thing. I first discovered Subaru's in the Outback in Australia. I asked the locals why they were so popular.The answer I got was their reliability. Wioth sometimes 400 miles between towns, a highway failure could be fatal. I noticed in the latest consumers reports annual buying guide, used Subarus (at least the Forester) are recommended for every single year model ever made. We have a 2007 Forester and drive it much more than our luxury German car (which frequently has $3000 failures!).. Mike Moore **************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Nov 19 08:44:40 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 15:44:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Teenager car Message-ID: <111920081544.14187.49243468000368B70000376B2215551724970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "John Cohen" > Terry, > > I am a big proponent for the Subaru as the best teen car, especially where > we live. It is super reliable, gets in the mid 20s for gas mileage and > the AWD can't be beat in the snow and ice. Yeah, but you DON'T want your teenager driving one of their turbo models. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U 07 WRX STI Highland Park, IL From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Nov 19 09:08:53 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 11:08:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Teenager car In-Reply-To: <005601c94a5b$399c6540$acd52fc0$@net> References: <005601c94a5b$399c6540$acd52fc0$@net> Message-ID: We used to love Subarus before they moved up into the $30K price range...........whatever happened to their slogan, "Inexpensive and built to stay that way". Anyway.....we've had 4 AWD wagons over the years but none in the past 10 years. The teenager story.........my son was 16 (now he's 38!) and driving one of the Subaru wagons, and for some un-Godly reason he decides to let his unlicensed buddy drive the car around the block........I'm sure there was a girl involved somehow. So his buddy comes to a stop sign, confuses the brake and the go pedal and shoots through the intersection tee-boning a parked 60's vintage Camaro that was a restoration project! Luckily in all of years of driving that was the only accident where he was at fault, and technically he wasn't considered at fault by the insurance company. He was considered stupid.........very stupid.......but not at fault. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Cohen Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:27 AM To: terryrs at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Teenager car Terry, I am a big proponent for the Subaru as the best teen car, especially where we live. It is super reliable, gets in the mid 20s for gas mileage and the AWD can't be beat in the snow and ice. It is not unusual to see them running around with 175k on them. I bought a 97 outback wagon for my 16 yo daughter and she loves it. It has 134 k and we have put nothing into it other than routine maintenance. I would recommend any car you buy for a teen have ABS and front airbags for safety because they will make mistakes. Don't spend a lot because they will hit things. Not a matter of if, it's a matter of when. I have been thru this twice so I speak from experience. John Cohen Rutland VT 76 TR6 http://www.triumphowners.com/701 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Nov 19 09:53:20 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:53:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive Message-ID: This device is works, and far better than the old synchronizer ... well worth the price http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Synchrometer-STE-SK/dp/B000JLMWHO/ref -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Nov 19 09:53:20 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:53:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive Message-ID: This device is works, and far better than the old synchronizer ... well worth the price http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Synchrometer-STE-SK/dp/B000JLMWHO/ref -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Wed Nov 19 10:12:25 2008 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 11:12:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <298E3CA00EDC4DD0867BE5800A3A5FD9@aitinc.local> I have one of these I use and they work great. The only problem is they are bulkier and won't fit in very confined spaces. I can't use this device on an AH 100-6 or 3000 because it just won't fit. It works great on everything else. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill & AnnaBelle" To: "James_ TR6" ; "Triumph List" ; Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 10:53 AM Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive > This device is works, and far better than the old synchronizer ... well > worth the price > > > http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Synchrometer-STE-SK/dp/B000JLMWHO/ref > -- > Bill Pugh > 1957 TR3 TS16765L > aka > Casper > > AnnaBelle Pugh > 1970 TR6 CC59179L > aka > Rosey > Wallace, CA From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Wed Nov 19 10:32:09 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 09:32:09 -0800 Subject: [TR] Teenager vehicle In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <52E72D0CFCBB40A5AF63BA04EA909F73@Induninwlaptop> I have to say, by far, my vote goes to the mid to late '80s Volvo 240. Safe? Are you kidding me?!?! Economical - 4 banger with little to no guts. Priced right too! You can get a good 240 for under $1000; it'll have a few miles on it, but all my Volvos went well over 250K and were stilling going strong when I sold them. They have a few know issues, like the heater fan and make sure to change the timing belt ever 60k miles, but they are cheap and easy to fix, making them great first cars to learn on. Oh, and a shoebox on wheels doesn't exactly scream "GIVE ME A TICKET!"... Like the Cobra kit my youngest wants to build. Brian 67 TR4A, driven by the kids if I go too! From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 19 11:40:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 10:40:29 -0800 Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > This device is works, and far better than the old synchronizer ... > well worth the price > > > http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Synchrometer-STE-SK/dp/B000JLMWHO/ref So, how does one use that thing to check that the throttles remain synchronized as they open ? Randall From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Nov 19 11:44:17 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 12:44:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive References: <298E3CA00EDC4DD0867BE5800A3A5FD9@aitinc.local> Message-ID: <4F6084B032C14E95A3BA7D98E618F8D8@KARL> Well then you need to stick to Triumphs and avoid those BMC cars ;-) Karl >I have one of these I use and they work great. The only problem is they >are bulkier and won't fit in very confined spaces. I can't use this device >on an AH 100-6 or 3000 because it just won't fit. It works great on >everything else. > > Terry Geiger > >> This device is works, and far better than the old synchronizer ... well >> worth the price >> >> >> http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Synchrometer-STE-SK/dp/B000JLMWHO/ref From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 19 12:04:11 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 19:04:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: <111920081904.16807.4924632A000ECFE1000041A722165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Jim and Diggle > Hnda Del sol Sir DOHC Vtec 170HP 1600cc rocket ship with electric roof that > folds into the boot We got the Del Sol in the USA, but we did not get the electric roof. I have heard it described, and I would like to see it operate just once. :-) If anyone knows the whereabouts of a video on the web, please let me know. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From dmb993 at earthlink.net Wed Nov 19 12:14:28 2008 From: dmb993 at earthlink.net (David Brady) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 14:14:28 -0500 Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49246594.8060009@earthlink.net> Randall, On triple webers, I think the trick is to do it when the carbs are well into their main jets (off the idle and progressions). I think most owners sync the butterflies at 3000 rpm. David Brady '68 TR250 CD8124L Randall wrote: >> This device is works, and far better than the old synchronizer ... >> well worth the price >> >> >> http://www.amazon.com/Weber-Synchrometer-STE-SK/dp/B000JLMWHO/ref >> > > So, how does one use that thing to check that the throttles remain > synchronized as they open ? > > Randall From Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com Wed Nov 19 12:16:55 2008 From: Jim.Holmgren at corp.aol.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 14:16:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. In-Reply-To: <111920081904.16807.4924632A000ECFE1000041A722165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <111920081904.16807.4924632A000ECFE1000041A722165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106D5F73E0C@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Several videos of the Del Sol Trans Top on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1dPFk9NgSQ&feature=related Hrmm...I didn't know about the Si version (170HP) - the standard version garnered it the unflattering nickname the "Dull Slow" Jim NASS #302 NASS Club Secretary '75 Spitfire 1500 '77 Spitfire 1500 '68 Spitfire Mk3 www.littlebluespitfire.com York, PA -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:04 PM To: Jim and Diggle; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. From: Jim and Diggle > Hnda Del sol Sir DOHC Vtec 170HP 1600cc rocket ship with electric roof that > folds into the boot We got the Del Sol in the USA, but we did not get the electric roof. I have heard it described, and I would like to see it operate just once. :-) If anyone knows the whereabouts of a video on the web, please let me know. The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Wed Nov 19 12:20:02 2008 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 13:20:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive In-Reply-To: <4F6084B032C14E95A3BA7D98E618F8D8@KARL> References: <298E3CA00EDC4DD0867BE5800A3A5FD9@aitinc.local> <4F6084B032C14E95A3BA7D98E618F8D8@KARL> Message-ID: I know, I know... Why would anyone want a boring, ugly six cylinder Healey when they could have say; a 948cc Triumph Herald? ;-) Yes, I do own a Herald. Terry Geiger www.GeigerGarage.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Karl Vacek" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 12:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive > Well then you need to stick to Triumphs and avoid those BMC cars ;-) > > Karl > > >>I have one of these I use and they work great. The only problem is they >>are bulkier and won't fit in very confined spaces. I can't use this >>device on an AH 100-6 or 3000 because it just won't fit. It works great >>on everything else. >> >> Terry Geiger From mark.jones at exxonmobil.com Wed Nov 19 13:21:05 2008 From: mark.jones at exxonmobil.com (mark.jones at exxonmobil.com) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 15:21:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Teenager vehicle In-Reply-To: Message-ID: This what I had to drive when I lived at home and even today I still drive a VW diesel. For both reasons given: slow and manual, they are great for a teenager. They will also come to appreciate how far they can go on a tank of fuel. Just this summer my step-son bought his first car, a TR7. This is a restoration project, to be on the road for next summer. What I do like about this vehicle as a first vehicle is that it has side impact beams, and some level of roll-over protection and real bumpers and reasonably good fuel consumption numbers, and it was cheap (even given the work we need to do to it). Mark Subject: Re: [TR] Teenager vehicle How about a Rabbit diesel? Slow? check Manual? check From zoboherald at aol.com Wed Nov 19 13:25:55 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 15:25:55 -0500 Subject: [TR] Amazon.com: Weber Synchrometer STE SK: Automotive In-Reply-To: References: <298E3CA00EDC4DD0867BE5800A3A5FD9@aitinc.local><4F6084B032C14E95A3BA7D98E618F8D8@KARL> Message-ID: <8CB189C290DD0CC-16BC-2E7@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Terry Geiger I know, I know... Why would anyone want a boring, ugly six cylinder Healey when they could have say; a 948cc Triumph Herald? ;-)? ? Yes, I do own a Herald. ==AM== EXACTLY! :-) For that matter, most of us Herald owners DON'T NEED NO STINKIN' CARB SYNCHROMETERS! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From pethier at comcast.net Wed Nov 19 14:14:05 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 21:14:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. Message-ID: <111920082114.18882.4924819D0000515C000049C222155612649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Jim Holmgren > Several videos of the Del Sol Trans Top on YouTube: > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1dPFk9NgSQ&feature=related > > Hrmm...I didn't know about the Si version (170HP) - the standard version > garnered it the unflattering nickname the "Dull Slow" Mostly because it was way heavier than the CRX it replaced. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From wayne at motorcarriage.com Wed Nov 19 14:53:52 2008 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 16:53:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. References: <111920082114.18882.4924819D0000515C000049C222155612649D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6C4AC995D1F3407596417D16D791BD8C@artvaca6b69b44> That was the B Series Engines native to the Acura Integra GSR over here. They put out 158 HP in US Trim. Not as much torque as a TR3 I don't believe, but are probably heavier. Sub 7 second 0-60 times are a little optimistc I think, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 75 TR6 (Daily Driver even today 18 degrees this morning) ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Jim Holmgren" ; Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 4:14 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: Jim Holmgren >> Several videos of the Del Sol Trans Top on YouTube: >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1dPFk9NgSQ&feature=related >> >> Hrmm...I didn't know about the Si version (170HP) - the standard version >> garnered it the unflattering nickname the "Dull Slow" > > Mostly because it was way heavier than the CRX it replaced. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata > C-package, 79 Caterham 7 > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From skip47 at clearwire.net Wed Nov 19 16:20:47 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 15:20:47 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR "Standard" motor rebuild. References: <362427351.586721227054694062.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Terry wrote: > What do you think is best for a high school kid with proneness for > personal > mayhem?B ...I'm guessing vintage VW bug with a bad cylinder. The kid will find a way to get in trouble, no matter what the car. I'm surprised anyone survives teenage years, knowing my history of dumb moves, and those of almost every male I know (females are more likely, but not certainly, to be less "enthusiastic"). So my suggestion is to attend your nearest SCCA Solo 2 event and get some education in car control. We did a special event for teens this year, well received. See www.renoscca.org for details on the Tire Rack Street Survival School (targeted to teach teens safe driving skills). Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Wed Nov 19 17:31:05 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 19:31:05 EST Subject: [TR] Teenager vehicle Message-ID: In a message dated 11/19/08 9:51:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, writes: << What do you think is best for a high school kid with proneness for personal mayhem? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire >> In that case, the best car would be no car at all until personal responsibility is learned! There are enough kids smashing mail boxes,running over street signs, paint balling houses. Harold ************** One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir= http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From mmarr at notwires.com Wed Nov 19 17:46:03 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 18:46:03 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spinal Tappets available on the world wide web References: Message-ID: <3655374B22AC4BC49FA9D7D7C563020A@mikeslaptop> I just spent the last half-hour listening to my copy of "Tappetstry", which arrived in the mail today. WONDERFUL! I have to say that I enjoyed Rust in the Tin the best, but every track is great. What a talented bunch! Mike From steven at newellboys.net Thu Nov 20 08:19:33 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 08:19:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Teenager vehicle (long, with bullet points!) In-Reply-To: <52E72D0CFCBB40A5AF63BA04EA909F73@Induninwlaptop> References: <52E72D0CFCBB40A5AF63BA04EA909F73@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <49258005.3050305@newellboys.net> Terry asked "What do you think is best for a high school kid with proneness for personal mayhem? ...I'm guessing vintage VW bug with a bad cylinder" If you yank out the radio and take away the cell phone, yes. :) I recently read that most (80%?) of accidents involve driver distraction. Cell phones and iPods are worse than horsepower. The cars filling my drive over the last five years -- at different times Triumph, '66 Volvo, '76 Mercedes, Range Rover "classic", Saab 900, several mid-80s BMWs -- may be the equivalent of a neon "Car Guy" sign hanging on the garage. So friends and neighbors ask for teenager car advice, despite the questionable judgement shown by the very cars in my driveway. :) The upside is I get to search craigslist without alarming my wife -- "I'm looking for a car for Conor," I can say -- and I even test drive cars with no risk to my own money. Except for the '87 325 I bought when my friend didn't want it for his daughter. Why was I carrying that much cash? Anyway, most parents just want a slow car with airbags, but here's what I suggest: - good visibility - good and predictable handling - few distractions - manual transmission (durable, demands attention) - cheap to buy - cheap to fix - moderate power - good, grown-up previous owner Factoring all these, we tend toward '85-'95 European models (BMW, Saab, Volvo) which were ahead of the world in safety, ruggedly built, and attracted -- and still attract -- fanatics who maintain the cars to a high standard even when they're worth less than $5K. Find a car with a club badge on the grille and you're set. All are well supported by independent mechanics and parts suppliers. Subarus are the best of the Japanese utility cars. Mechanically they won't last as long as the Europeans, but late 90's and early 00's sedans and wagons can work if you find a fanatic original owner (and know about engine weaknesses). If there's a real reason for a small SUV (like hockey, ski club, football, college laundry hauling) consider the Honda CR-V or older Jeep Cherokee Sports as long as they're manual transmission. Speaking of which, come on by, Terry! :) I have a really nice '87 325 for sale! And my fairly good '87 528e would also be perfect for a new driver. Because I have a pocket full of cash and I'm buying an '88 535is set up for the track, and Pam wants fewer cars in the drive. PS reading that list again, a Triumph could meet all of my bullet points too. Hmmm... Steven Newell '62 TR4 '87 535is, 528e, 325 From dbh at hamengr.com Thu Nov 20 14:08:04 2008 From: dbh at hamengr.com (David B Hammond) Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 13:08:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] T4 electrics References: Message-ID: <018A32427B054AC0B852A489D9A323DF@HOMEOFFICE> Can anyone tell me how to test the generator and /or voltage regulator on the car? David From dwillner at ptd.net Thu Nov 20 16:40:15 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 18:40:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] BS / Whitworth Hex Bolts images Message-ID: <000601c94b69$57738e90$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> I'm not sure or not if I received an attachment of a page of BS and Whitworth hex bolt head images from the list or not. I remember having a page that had all the markings and described all the different styles and where they originated, can't seem to locate it. Is anyone familar with a page of images of all the head designs and if so, can you send me a copy? Thanks Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Nov 20 17:45:08 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 19:45:08 EST Subject: [TR] In need of a TR250 L/R wing Message-ID: Hello, I took the plunge yesterday and my 250 will undergo a second frame off restoration. The body tub which was not done right the first time is the main area of concern. It will be media blasted in the near future to determine the extend of the repairs needed. Right off the bat it appears for certain that I will be dollars ahead if I could find a NOS or good used driver's side rear wing. I am willing to pay the going rate and it will be going to a good home. The whole car is full of dough so if any of you are squirreled away any NOS TR4 or 250 body panels now is the time to cash in by contacting me off List. I already have a pair of NOS doors. Time is a wasting, so no need to keep the stash forever, right? I also have plenty of TR parts that I could trade too, just inquire with your needs if that is what it takes. Thanks, Darrell **************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Nov 20 17:45:58 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 17:45:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] T4 electrics In-Reply-To: <018A32427B054AC0B852A489D9A323DF@HOMEOFFICE> References: <018A32427B054AC0B852A489D9A323DF@HOMEOFFICE> Message-ID: <7bb181af0811201645s6a19eeb6vea6a0666e718a92d@mail.gmail.com> I think what you want is the Lucas Fault Diagnosis Manual. Perhaps there is one on the web. I bought one years ago when the Big 3 (not the Big 3 that want a bail-out, our Big 3) sold them. Still see photocopies on eBay from time to time. Meanwhile, I have attached a Word document that might be useful. Geo On 11/20/08, David B Hammond wrote: > Can anyone tell me how to test the generator and /or voltage regulator on > the car? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a name of Some basic charging system tests.doc] From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Nov 20 21:46:12 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 23:46:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] cars for kids Message-ID: <8B018605996E4656A61F7DE93C16C925@fred8kwiskhcfu> How soon we all forget that we were teenagers once. "FT" From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Nov 20 22:10:03 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 00:10:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] cars for kids In-Reply-To: <8B018605996E4656A61F7DE93C16C925@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <4925FC5B.27495.639C975@localhost> On 20 Nov 2008 at 23:46, FRED E THOMAS wrote: > How soon we all forget that we were teenagers once. "Were"? I may have hit 60 last weekend but I'm still a teenager. Probably will be for at least another 15 years. I suspect you are too. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Nov 21 04:20:56 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 06:20:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] T4 electrics References: <018A32427B054AC0B852A489D9A323DF@HOMEOFFICE> <7bb181af0811201645s6a19eeb6vea6a0666e718a92d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <005401c94bcb$3a47d440$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> David, I believe that I have a Lucas Fault diagnostic manual... I'll see if I can photocopy and scan it... no promises, but I think i might.... paul dorsey ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geo Hahn" To: "David B Hammond" Cc: Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 7:45 PM Subject: Re: [TR] T4 electrics >I think what you want is the Lucas Fault Diagnosis Manual. Perhaps > there is one on the web. > > I bought one years ago when the Big 3 (not the Big 3 that want a > bail-out, our Big 3) sold them. Still see photocopies on eBay from > time to time. > > Meanwhile, I have attached a Word document that might be useful. > > Geo > > > On 11/20/08, David B Hammond wrote: >> Can anyone tell me how to test the generator and /or voltage regulator on >> the car? > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/msword which had a > name of Some basic charging system tests.doc] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as dorpaul at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Nov 21 04:57:35 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 11:57:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] cars for kids Message-ID: <112120081157.20835.4926A22F000994B2000051632216527966970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "FRED E THOMAS" > How soon we all forget that we were teenagers once. "FT" On the contrary, Fred. If we had forgotten, we wouldn't be worried about what and how our teenagers drive. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From opposumking at verizon.net Fri Nov 21 05:21:57 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 07:21:57 -0500 Subject: [TR] cars for kids References: <8B018605996E4656A61F7DE93C16C925@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <001701c94bd3$bf95d4a0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> > How soon we all forget that we were teenagers once. "FT" I'm amazed I survive my teenaged driving. My first accident was within just a few hours of getting my licence. In fact, I don't think I actually made it a whole hour. Dukes of Hazard was my driving inspiration. Didn't help having friends that thought the same way. We did clever things like hood surfing, chinese firedrills over the top of the car going down the highway, leaping from car to car, seeing how high we could get a car in the air, playing bumper tag, etc. Remembering my teenage driving habits go a long way to inspiring me to make sure my son has a good safe car when he starts. As well he's going to be getting lots of training on driving, including driving like a nut. So he'll be gokart racing, autocrossing and such at as young an age as can be handled. I really want him to know how to handle a car well before he gets a drivers licence. I'd like him to have long gotten the sliding sideways curiousity question answered and well under control before he hits the road. As well to understand when to go sliding sideways, and how to slide sideways with style, skill and flair. Hopefully, he'll stick with autocrossing and such just to practice, and have fun. And knowing that as a kid he's still going to behave like an idiot, I want him in something solid for that encounter with a tree. So in todays car market, I'd be most inclined to be looking at something like a Volvo 740 or such. From wensley_tr at comcast.net Fri Nov 21 05:47:59 2008 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 07:47:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] cars for kids In-Reply-To: <4925FC5B.27495.639C975@localhost> Message-ID: Me to on the age part, BUT we had more room to play and learn how to drive Then they do now Craig PS: Who ever said go with the Volvo that is the way to go -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 12:10 AM To: triumphs Subject: Re: [TR] cars for kids On 20 Nov 2008 at 23:46, FRED E THOMAS wrote: > How soon we all forget that we were teenagers once. "Were"? I may have hit 60 last weekend but I'm still a teenager. Probably will be for at least another 15 years. I suspect you are too. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Nov 21 06:01:29 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 07:01:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] cars for kids Message-ID: <20081121130139.AF4C11878F1@autox.team.net> I'm picking up a creampuff 1996 Toyota Camry 4 door 5 speed tonight for my 16 year old daughter. She's so excited she can't stand it. 135,000 miles, and ready for another 150,000 or so. I'm surprised no one has mentioned Toyotas so far (except maybe as a pickup). She's currently driving her mom's subaru (outback wagon, 2002?) - at 95,000 miles it seems ready for some major work - like possibly a tranny. It's always had an underhood fuel leak when it's cold out - I mean, what could go wrong? :) After Irv and Ernie's experiences with Subie's I wouldn't touch one with a 10 foot pole. I'm not implying that you Subie fans are wrong, just that there is "the other side of the story". Also, "well maintained" is probably not a good way to describe the treatment it received. By the way, I'm told that you are not supposed to slide sideways through corners on the public roads? Maybe I'll have to stop doing that sometime... Nah. 30 plus years of practice makes perfect? - Tony Drews From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Nov 21 06:05:43 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 13:05:43 -0000 Subject: [TR] cars for kids References: <112120081157.20835.4926A22F000994B2000051632216527966970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <09AAC1968E254FDC9803CADFF4070F05@Bevan> I remember that my very first car caused my late Dad much thought as, bless him, he bought it for me. He knew I wanted a sports car yet he also knew that such a beast was likely to be unsuitable unless the spec chosen was going to meet *his* requirements vis a vis how I might use it and the dangers involved. The compromise manifested itself in the form of a 1938 MG TA two seater with four very unsynchronised gears, less than re-assuring brakes and something that made a noise that was entirely disproportionate to its actual velocity. It cost just over GBP400 in 1962 and it sure was one of the better TA's around at the time. I *loved* that car and got more fun out of it in showing my friends how you could make silent up and down gearchanges, while using the gearbox to assist the less than adequate cable operated brakes. I don't think at any time in the four years that I had it that I ever did more than seventy mph and it felt like I was broaching Mach 1 ! Of course, TA's are like hen's teeth today and they cost way, way more than what Dad paid for mine. But times change. Traffic is far more aggressive and we all think side impact sytems, crumple zones - and a lot more besides. To contribute to this thread, I'd go for a 240 Volvo or some kind of Euro diesel like a Golf (Rabbit) or a Polo, or - one of the Suzukis. I've had two Suzuki Vitaras (Sidekicks) and the family as a whole errs towards Suzis as daily drivers. The current model used by *Head Office* (SWMBO) is a 993cc 3 cylinder three door hatchback. Goes quite quickly, parks easily, has plenty of space and important for us where fuel cost is a major consideration, will easily do 48-50mpg on local trips. We also have a Suzuki Cappucino for the summer months as this is smaller than but faster than a Spitfire and terrific fun. Arranging the Trans-America Drive for next year has totally prevented me driving my much-loved Triumph 2.5 Injection saloon throughout 2008 and I wouldn't drive it in 2009 either - so we said goodbye to one another some six weeks ago after ten years of blissful marriage. Maybe a return to Triumph ownership in 2010 will see me acquiring a Stag as they're still plentiful in the UK - and for my personal needs, offer the comfort I knew so well in my old Big Six Sorry, rambling too much and getting away from topic. Jonmac From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Nov 21 06:26:52 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 08:26:52 EST Subject: [TR] cars for kids Message-ID: In a message dated 11/21/2008 5:02:31 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, tony at tonydrews.com writes: I'm not implying that you Subie fans are wrong, just that there is "the other side of the story". Tony, The Consumers Union has always rated Subaru's tops for reliability, and lowest for frequency of repair. I have a friend who had a wheel bearing problem on his older Subaru. I asked the dealership about it and was told the early ones used an automotive rear axle which was changed to the truck rear axle; or at least that area in the rear axle which carried the wheel bearings was changed. I think its normal for some people to have bad experience with any car, but its always dangerous to generalize from exceptions. CU takes in a lot of data to make their assessment to avoid that problem. I also have a 98 Benz E320. I love the car, but ever time it goes in for maintenance, its $3000. CU predicted that and I didn't believe them. They have proven to be correct about that money pit! I think they are equally correct about the Subaru also. All bets are off for the racing Subarus though-young men and the really hot rally cars are going to be expensive to maintain! I can imagine trouble at 25000 miles if every mile id done 1/4 mile at a time under full acceleration. Mike Moore 59 TR3A **************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Nov 21 06:40:44 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 13:40:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] cars for kids Message-ID: <112120081340.11127.4926BA5C0007092D00002B772215555884970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Tony Drews > After Irv and Ernie's experiences > with Subie's I wouldn't touch one with a 10 foot pole. Don't include me in there. Mine (3) have been great cars. I'd buy another Subaru in a heartbeat. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From davgil at aol.com Fri Nov 21 06:57:36 2008 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 08:57:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] different data point In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB19F83E149B93-101C-625@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com> Reading the posts about ways to balance carbs made me think of a tuning device that was in the toolbox of my 1976 TR6 when I purchased it, but that I have never tried.? As I recall, this is a combination of of an indicator to set float height along with two rods that go into the carbs with small wires atop them each of which?has a 90 degree bend.? The principle appears to be to adjust idle speed until the two wires (which each point to the other carb due to the bend) are equal and move simultaneously.? Has anyone else seen this device and does it work?? David Gill -----Original Message----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: sumton at sbcglobal.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 7:14 am Subject: Re: [6pack] different data point Maybe the magic formula is idle speed. I idle at about 750 - 800. If I turn it up it works, but at that speed if I open the throat enough so as not to interrupt the running of the car, the plastic ball does not move enough to get a read. As I said I can do it if I get on and off quickly and I can get the car to idle very well that way, it is just that I don't think that is how the thing is intended to work. I started using one of those snail type, except it is an older style that works on the same principle. That works fine for me. We are talking about the Edlebrock (?) thing with the glass tube and little red ball, right? What do you do differently? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as davgil at aol.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Nov 21 07:33:39 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 09:33:39 EST Subject: [TR] [6pack] different data point Message-ID: In a message dated 11/21/2008 7:58:26 AM Central Standard Time, davgil at aol.com writes: > Reading the posts about ways to balance carbs made me think of a tuning > device that was in the toolbox of my 1976 TR6 when I purchased it, but that I > have never tried.? As I recall, this is a combination of of an indicator to set > float height along with two rods that go into the carbs with small wires > atop them each of which?has a 90 degree bend.? The principle appears to be to > adjust idle speed until the two wires (which each point to the other carb due > to the bend) are equal and move simultaneously.? Has anyone else seen this > device and does it work?? > David Gill > I have one of these sets. It will synch three carbs. I would say that it is adequate to synchronize the throttles off-idle but since the idle adjustments are more subtle I still use my flow meter for on-idle synchronizing. Dave Massey From zoboherald at aol.com Fri Nov 21 07:44:16 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 09:44:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] cars for kids In-Reply-To: <20081121130139.AF4C11878F1@autox.team.net> References: <20081121130139.AF4C11878F1@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CB19FEC35F7C2C-1174-A45@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Tony Drews ...surprised no one has mentioned Toyotas so far (except maybe as a pickup). ... ==AM== Only because I hadn't gotten around to posting on this topic. ;-) Two years ago, my daughter was about ready to get her license, and she needed a car. We kept our eyes open for something safe, reliable and inexpensive. Suddenly, there it was on a side road about two miles from our house: 1992 Toyota Paseo for $800. The car had about 220k on it, with probably at least the last 100k or so being all highway miles. Solid, straight, ran beautifully...and the guy needed to sell it quickly, so he counter-offered it to us for $400 before we could even bargain the $800 asking price down to, say, $600! It served her very well until she found the pickup she really needed for her activities at the time. We almost sold the Paseo as she was headed off to college, but then the pickup suffered a major breakdown just before she was due to leave for school. So the Paseo went back on the road for several months. It sat again until her younger brother could finish paying her for it and get his license, and it now serves him very well and reliably. So far, the biggest repair heartbreak was having to replace the original speedometer/odometer, now reading 235k, with one that read only 135k. :-) Otherwise, it has required nothing substantial beyond normal brake/tire replacement...and a RF park/turn lamp to replace the one the deer got. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From jwalker at mainet.com Fri Nov 21 08:23:10 2008 From: jwalker at mainet.com (John Walker) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 10:23:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 562 Message-ID: In 1975 I overhauled the engine in TR-3B TS68368, including replacing the pistons and liners with new ones from JC Whitney ($250). I am doing the same thing again, hopefully with more care and attention to detail. When I disassembled the engine, I noted that those pistons had four rings, along with several cracks and split liners, so I suspect your 4-ringers are similar aftermarket items. John Walker TR-3B TS68368 Reno, NV -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Nogueira Sent: 17 November 2008 05:21 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 Engine Rebuild I'm starting the rebuild of a spare TR 3 engine from spares parts that I have accumulated over the years and have a few questions that I hope the list can help me with some of them. 1. Ten years ago I had a valve job done and remember reading about differences in the either the valves or guides. What are the options and recommendations when having a valve job done? 2. Since I have two heads from which to choose for the engine could someone advise me of what to consider in choosing which to rebuild. Based on TeriAnn's excellent webpage, one of the heads is a TR 4 with the flat area over intake #1 and chamfer on the port side of the combustion chamber. The other is a late TR 3A head, has the diagonal slant under the thermostat housing but does not have the raised flat over the #1 intake. Are the valves and springs inter changeable between theses two heads ? 2. Among my collection of parts I noticed pistons with three rings and some with four rings, one oil ring being below the wrist pin. When did this change occur and what are the pros and cons of each. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated Bob Nogueira From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 21 08:31:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 07:31:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] [6pack] different data point In-Reply-To: <8CB19F83E149B93-101C-625@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20081121153113.XPOY14434.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > As I > recall, this is a combination of of an indicator to set float > height along with two rods that go into the carbs with small > wires atop them each of which?has a 90 degree bend.? The > principle appears to be to adjust idle speed until the two > wires (which each point to the other carb due to the bend) > are equal and move simultaneously.? That sounds exactly like the "SU Tool Kit"; which is what I prefer to use for synchronizing SU carbs when they are mounted in the same plane. But the SU version doesn't fit ZS carbs (and my ZS carbs are not mounted in the same plane). Accuracy does depend somewhat on operator skill; but I feel it's more accurate than the Unisyn type devices. Randall From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Fri Nov 21 09:15:33 2008 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 08:15:33 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electrics/different data point Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0F16AECF@kb1.mossmotors.com> David/George: The fault diagnosis manual is still available, 990-035 from Moss. David: What you describe is an SU tool kit still available from Moss, 386-300, neat little kit of tools with tuning instructions. You are correct the wires point toward each other and balance is achieved when they are even. If anyone is offended by my plugging these Moss items - tough. I figure they didn't know these items were still available and before they get ripped off on e-bay, they might want to look at what is available. Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6, Daily Driver From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 21 09:22:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 08:22:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electrics/different data point In-Reply-To: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0F16AECF@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: <20081121162211.BNNX7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I figure they didn't know these items were still > available and before they get ripped off on e-bay, they might > want to look at what is available. And indeed, they frequently sell for more on eBay than from Moss. Quite amusing, in a way. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Nov 21 09:22:17 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 11:22:17 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 Electrics/different data point Message-ID: In a message dated 11/21/2008 8:18:20 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes: If anyone is offended by my plugging these Moss items - tough. I figure they didn't know these items were still available and before they get ripped off on e-bay, they might want to look at what is available. Peter, I, as well as others I'm sure, appreciate it Best, Mike Moore **************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From rgt2 at sbcglobal.net Fri Nov 21 09:26:34 2008 From: rgt2 at sbcglobal.net (ATT Yahoo Mail-rgt2) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 08:26:34 -0800 Subject: [TR] cars for kids References: <4925FC5B.27495.639C975@localhost> Message-ID: <051A2CF92CB64C97AD644E5EEC7E5829@HomePC> I have always thought that you have to grow older, but but you don't have to grow up. Rod Trunnell -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jim Muller" Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 9:10 PM To: "triumphs" Subject: Re: [TR] cars for kids > On 20 Nov 2008 at 23:46, FRED E THOMAS wrote: > >> How soon we all forget that we were teenagers once. > > "Were"? I may have hit 60 last weekend but I'm still a teenager. > Probably will be for at least another 15 years. I suspect you are > too. > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as rgt2 at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr6 at pobox.com Fri Nov 21 09:44:26 2008 From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 10:44:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] cars for kids In-Reply-To: <8CB19FEC35F7C2C-1174-A45@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> References: <20081121130139.AF4C11878F1@autox.team.net> <8CB19FEC35F7C2C-1174-A45@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4926E56A.40903@pobox.com> My personal theory for kid cars (from a guy that doesn't have kids and has made it such that it won't happen -- so take with a grain of salt.) I've watched nieces (4 of them) get cars given to them and watched how they fared. And averaged this with how I manged myself as a teen. My theory is: a) kid buys their own car - with some sort of matching program from the parent. Something like "I'll match you 1:1 up to $X. Anything beyond that is your cost." b) (and this is very important in my eyes.) - you buy the car when they are too young to drive it -- say 14. And you buy one that almost, but doesnt quite work. Then you and the kid have a project that you tackle together. This is both "daddy time" and it gives kid a sense of pride and ownership (in theory). I think this is especially important for girls -- to get a very basic car understanding. It both makes them "cool" and it makes them something other than helpless when something happens. The goal here is to make them adults -- and not to give them a sense of entitlement. And you just might be less likely to do stupid things if you had sweat and blood in the car. (I said less likely, not unlikely.) -- http://SporkInTheEye.blogspot.com -- Time and motion Flesh and blood and fire Lives connect in webs of gold and razor wire Spin a thread of precious contact Squeeze in all that you can find Spontaneous relations And the long enduring kind Neil Peart, "Time and Motion", Test For Echo (1996) From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri Nov 21 11:07:17 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 10:07:17 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electrics/different data point References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0F16AECF@kb1.mossmotors.com> Message-ID: Hi Peter, I don't mind the plug from the vendors, because after all we are looking to improve our LBC and not everyone is "Hep" to the new products that are available let alone all of the thousands parts that you carry even if you your current catalog. It is sometimes to find on line parts and peruse through your catalog of all the thousands of parts you carry. Regards, Ibsen Dow '59 TR3A '71 TR6, SCCA D Mod '79 Spitfire ----- Original Message ----- From: Arakelian, Peter To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 8:15 AM Subject: [TR] TR4 Electrics/different data point David/George: The fault diagnosis manual is still available, 990-035 from Moss. David: What you describe is an SU tool kit still available from Moss, 386-300, neat little kit of tools with tuning instructions. You are correct the wires point toward each other and balance is achieved when they are even. If anyone is offended by my plugging these Moss items - tough. I figure they didn't know these items were still available and before they get ripped off on e-bay, they might want to look at what is available. Peter Arakelian - 1971 TR6, Daily Driver _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From 60TR3A at cox.net Fri Nov 21 11:14:13 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 11:14:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] cars for kids In-Reply-To: <8CB19FEC35F7C2C-1174-A45@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> References: <20081121130139.AF4C11878F1@autox.team.net> <8CB19FEC35F7C2C-1174-A45@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <9B9ABE6E-E076-48BD-91AB-F5104130D72E@cox.net> The first car for both of my children was a MG-Midget! They loved it & I loved it. Both still alive and doing well. My son has a MGB he picked up in California & my daughter wants my TR3 when I am too old to drive it! :-) John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From pethier at comcast.net Fri Nov 21 11:42:05 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 18:42:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] cars for kids Message-ID: <112120081842.9640.492700FD0009F770000025A822155670749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "John Macartney" > I remember that my very first car caused my late Dad much thought as, bless him, >> Sorry, rambling too much and getting away from topic. Over the years I have often enjoyed reading you getting away from topic just as much as many others staying on-topic. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Fri Nov 21 12:32:42 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 14:32:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 568 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: David, To test the voltage regulator, Geo is right, find a copy of the Lucas Manual. Meantime, there may be some info here to get you started. http://www.vintagemg.com/ArticlePDFs/Tech103.pdf Brian From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Fri Nov 21 12:39:53 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 14:39:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Cars for Kids In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I recall reading an Insurance organization's recommendation for kids' cars. They suggested a small pick up. They are relatively strong. In a accident, the cab is up high and out of the main crush, you can't get too many kids in a small cab, and also that you should take out the radio - its a distraction. Brian From Loumetelko at aol.com Fri Nov 21 12:45:08 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 14:45:08 EST Subject: [TR] TR4 Electrics/different data point Message-ID: Actually you are very brave Peter. It is almost common knowledge that you are a Moss employee subject to the occasional rants and raves from the unwashed. Wonder why the praise Moss occasionally gets and deserves is not directed to you or your excellent coworkers? Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) From Loumetelko at aol.com Fri Nov 21 12:55:49 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 14:55:49 EST Subject: [TR] cars for kids Message-ID: I struggled greatly with this when my daughter turned sixteen and wanted / needed a vehicle. Do I buy her a beater (or just shy of one) or buy new with dependability? I would have been a basket case if the beater broke down and some Samaritan gave her a ride and she never came home. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) From mmarr at notwires.com Fri Nov 21 14:12:55 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 15:12:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] cars for kids References: Message-ID: On the occasion of my second marriage, we combined two families - my two girls and Kathy's two boys and one girl. The five kids' ages spanned five years - the oldest was 18. I don't think there was an occasion when each had their own car, but during the five years that it took before the youngest went off to college, we had various extra vehicles that they shared. There was an S10 pick-up (demolished by #1 son), an Olds Cutlass (outlasted all the kids), a couple of Tempos (one rolled by #2 son and one rusted away), an Audi 4000Q that used to be mine and that ALL the kids learned to drive a manual transmission on, and on which the clutch failed after a mere 225,000 miles (sold to an ice racer), and, last of all, a brand new Ranger pick-up that we leased for about $230/month. My son drove it the year before he left for college and then it became MINE!! Since then, I have parlayed that little Ranger into a nice extended cab F150 4X4. So, it all worked out in the end. And, I vote for a basic pick-up, 4 cylinder with stick, but get a new one and get the warranty. For every "cheap" beater that i bought, I spent more than the purchase price in fixing it - and I did the fixing myself. Buying a beater was a false economy in my case. YMMV, however. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 1:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] cars for kids >I struggled greatly with this when my daughter turned sixteen and wanted / > needed a vehicle. Do I buy her a beater (or just shy of one) or buy new > with > dependability? I would have been a basket case if the beater broke down > and > some Samaritan gave her a ride and she never came home. > > Lou Metelko > Auburn, Indiana > > > ************** > Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops > and more from Dell. Shop Deals > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http > ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mmarr at notwires.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From adcronin at ameritech.net Fri Nov 21 14:22:33 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 13:22:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] 1)Engine Block Interior, Liner Paint &2)Venting Message-ID: <536169.11715.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Have thoroughly cleaned the interior/exterior of the block and head and painted the interior water passages and push rod cavity's and crank/rod areas with glyptal (also the top surfaces of the head where the rockers are). Was wondering if one could (should) also use this material on the external parts of the piston liners exposed to cooling liquids? Another question relates to the alloy rocker cover with its tiny pin hole air vent in the supplied filler cap. Is this adequate to properly function the way the stock filler cap did? Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Nov 21 16:26:52 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 23:26:52 -0000 Subject: [TR] cars for kids References: <112120081842.9640.492700FD0009F770000025A822155670749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4828C20A92BF4E29B3CEE059CCD6F75E@Bevan> Phil Ethier wrote: > Over the years I have often enjoyed reading you getting away from topic just as much as many > others staying on-topic. Thank you, Phil. There's nothing like a good 'ramble' within a ring-fenced arena :) Jonmac From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Fri Nov 21 18:06:38 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 20:06:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] cars for kids References: <20081121130139.AF4C11878F1@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <3E3A269950BD4ECEBEF4AA1512F19E6B@userb38463fba5> I need to add to all of this as well. In my case it was a 1937 Chevy 4 door that was my Grandfathers car. It was handed down from my brother Bill to me when Bill bought a 1955 100-4 Austin Healy. My Grandfather only owned 2 cars in his life. A 1928 Dodge and this 37 Chevy. Bill got the Chevy in 1960 and I got it in 1962. It still had the new tires on it that were put on in 1949 before the Grandparents summer trip to California from Pittsburgh. I loved that car because it was his as well as it was the coolest car that anyone in my school had. Lots liked it more than a few of my friends who had 55, 56 and 57 Chevy's. I liked those cars too. The 37 could not go very fast and overheated in the morning and never cooled off until retired at night. It was so heavy that if I ever hit anything I'd have gone thru it. I did get rear ended once by an early 60's Chevy PU Truck. The spring steel rear bumper absorbed most of the hit and bounced back almost as it was before I got hit. It pushed the panel under the trunk in about 2" and broke a tail light. The front of the PU was pretty smashed. As I recall the estimate to repair everything was maybe $43.00 bucks.What memories. Our daughter got the 86 Pontiac Sunbird when my wife got a new car. What a piece of crap that car was. So many things went wrong with it that I quit keeping track of them. The Odometer was electrically driven and had a habit of going backwards and took miles off some days. The daughters friend had one that did the same thing. Next for the kids was a Honda Civic. That was a good car but for the rust. It was a 5 speed and to this day my kids only want stick shifts. Both of them amaze their friends that they can drive a stick. I can't imagine that there are so many folks who don't know how to do so.They both have VW Jetta's now. Those are great cars but a bit of a maintenance nightmare as the Germans have to do everything differently than anyone else, little things like wheel bolts rather than studs and lug nuts as an example. There's a lot more stories that can be told about the 37 but those are for another day, nice memories. JVV From banjonut at verizon.net Fri Nov 21 18:06:57 2008 From: banjonut at verizon.net (Steve Ball) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 17:06:57 -0800 Subject: [TR] Cars for kids Message-ID: Let me add my 2 cents worth. I'm 61 now , and my first car, in '67, was a '57 TR3. Everything went wrong with it, and I cut my teeth (mechanic-wise) learning to work on it, and it was a blast to drive. When I met my wife she had a '50 MGTD, and since then we've had an newer MGB and two more TR3's, the last of which I'm in the middle of restoring right now. In '86, when our daughter got her Learner's Permit, the only car she wanted to drive was the TR3. At first it wasn't the coolest car in her High School parking lot, but then a bunch of kids discovered what a great car it really was, and it was amazing how popular she suddenly became! We were always careful about how far away from home we let her drive the TR, and the car did have a rollbar which gave some sense of security to her mother. Yeah, we had our share of mechanical problems, and a few rescue missions, but I always got her to help me fix it. When she was 15 I had her changing oil filters, and tuning carburetors, and neither of us would trade those days for anything! Someday she'll inherit this last TR, and it will go in her garage right alongside her own car, a 60's A/H Sprite. Once bitten by the Britcar bug, and you're infected for life! Steve Ball Lompoc Ca. From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 21 20:05:08 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 22:05:08 EST Subject: [TR] 1)Engine Block Interior, Liner Paint &2)Venting Message-ID: In a message dated 11/21/2008 4:22:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, adcronin at ameritech.net writes: Another question relates to the alloy rocker cover with its tiny pin hole air vent in the supplied filler cap. Is this adequate to properly function the way the stock filler cap did? This is obviously a newly rebuilt motor. What you can expect (from my experience) is that the blow by in the early stages of running will cause oil drips from the vent tube because (IMO) the pin hole does not vent as well as a breather cap. It goes away as the rings seat. Do not be overly concerned if you see a medium puddle of oil under the vent tube in the early stages. I was, and I am no longer, as it is gone. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) From patton at suscom-maine.net Fri Nov 21 21:22:31 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 23:22:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1)Engine Block Interior, Liner Paint &2)Venting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49278907.7080409@suscom-maine.net> My stock oil filler cap did not have a vent hole. 1975 TR6. If you look at the underside of that shiny chrome cap (if its like the one that came with my aluminum valve cover), you'll notice that the pin hole in the top side is above the workings that actually seal the cap. That little hole is merely a decoration. There is no path from the inside of the cap to that hole. What little breathing is done under that shiny cover just escapes all around. There is no baffling so any oil thrown against the cap will bleed to the outside. My chrome cap always created a wet spot or even a small puddle around the cap on top of the valve cover. The crankcase venting works on my car so I soldered up the actual vent hole on the bottom of the cap. After all how much could vent thru that tiny hole as compared to the 1/2" vent hose a few inches away on the side of the valve cover? Rick Patton 75TR6sci http://pattonmachine.com/ DLylis at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 11/21/2008 4:22:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > adcronin at ameritech.net writes: > > Another > question relates to the alloy rocker cover with its tiny pin hole air vent > in > the supplied filler cap. Is this adequate to properly function the way the > stock filler cap did? > > snip From dconnitt at fuse.net Fri Nov 21 21:37:08 2008 From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 23:37:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] 1)Engine Block Interior, Liner Paint &2)Venting In-Reply-To: <536169.11715.qm@web81305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Daniel, I don't think you should paint the piston liners with Glytal. That would reduce the transfer of heat from the cylinders to the water. The story on Gyptal as I was told is that it was originally developed by GE to be used seal the insides of castings that would hold oil. The idea is that it will tend to keep the crankcase cleaner, longer because the oil will tend to run down the sides of the slick surface and not congeal into the crud we have all cleaned off the inside of engines one time or another. It must have been around for quite awhile as I remember my dad using it when rebuilding antique cars when I was young. Dave Connitt '67 TR4A http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a From kvacek at ameritech.net Fri Nov 21 21:53:48 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 22:53:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] 1)Engine Block Interior, Liner Paint &2)Venting References: Message-ID: <6F7BE7C02DAC4D558C9B1D1DE44764C4@KARL> I don't know why GE developed Glyptal, but I remember seeing it in the Allied Radio catalog in the late 1950's for use as a paint-on insulation for electrical connections and components. I think it was intended for similar uses as the stuff you can buy at hardware stores today. But Glyptal was certainly a high-perforamnce product as opposed to the consumer stuff you can buy in the electrical department at Home Depot, etc. today. Back then it was really expen$ive too - for a little bottle. Must be less expensive today if people regularly coat entire insides of engines "just because". I thought that racers had discovered its usefulness for race engines maybe 30 years ago, for smoothing out the inside of blocks to allow oil to flow back to the pan (and thus the pump) faster. But I dunno, really... Karl > The story on > Gyptal as I was told is that it was originally developed by GE to be used > seal the insides of castings that would hold oil. The idea is that it will > tend to keep the crankcase cleaner, longer because the oil will tend to > run > down the sides of the slick surface and not congeal into the crud we have > all cleaned off the inside of engines one time or another. > It must have been around for quite awhile as I remember my dad using it > when > rebuilding antique cars when I was young. > > Dave Connitt From tom628 at verizon.net Fri Nov 21 23:48:03 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 01:48:03 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. Message-ID: I'm installing new rear brake cylinders in our 76 TR6, and having a difficult time getting the springy locking plates inserted between the backing plate and the cylinder with the E-brake lever blocking access. Anyone have any tips from personal experience in refitting these things? Thanks, Tom From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Nov 22 00:04:53 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 02:04:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB1A87C0D5CBBE-51C-1315@webmail-me08.sysops.aol.com> Tom, Check out Bob Danielson's wonderful web site where he does a very nice job describing and illustrating the process. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeUpgrade2.htm Scroll down the page until you come to the correct section. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Tom Note To: TR List Sent: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 1:48 am Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. I'm installing new rear brake cylinders in our 76 TR6, and having a difficult time getting the springy locking plates inserted between the backing plate and the cylinder with the E-brake lever blocking access.? Anyone have any tips from personal experience in refitting these things?? Thanks,? Tom _______________________________________________? ? From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 22 05:18:32 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 07:18:32 EST Subject: [TR] 1)Engine Block Interior, Liner Paint &2)Venting Message-ID: Rick, I went back to read the original post and it appears, but I am not sure, that he is talking about a 3 motor. That little pin hole (at least on mine) has a corresponding little hole on the sealing part of the cover that goes through. I ran a fine wire through mine to be sure. He should have no PCV outlet on this alloy cover other than the pin hole, and the lower block vent tube, of course. As to the Glyptal, I took a look at that and then said no. I suspect one of the reasons I was rebuilding the motor in the first place is that a PO painted the inside with some material and small pieces of it let go. David David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 22 05:23:51 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 07:23:51 EST Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. Message-ID: I found that putting the smallest one with the locking hooks on first is the answer. Then the flat one that goes against the backing plate and then tap in the one with the small hooks. Put a little grease on these as they want to be able to move to center the cylinder as the shoes bed in. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) From coefront at shaw.ca Sat Nov 22 06:46:40 2008 From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 06:46:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Re TR for kids Message-ID: For my eldest child we for $ 1,000.00 bought her a used and solid 144 Volvo that gave her immeasurable service even though we had to repair it after she hit a guard railing. For our third child we for $100.00 (yes $ 100.00) bought him a 145 Volvo he wrote off after hitting an open metal gate set at such an angle it couldn't be seen at dusk: then for $ 200.00 a big Chevrolet 4 door he drove all over upper North America with his pals for two years. For our second child we for $ 100.00 bought a big old North American Crew Cab Pick Up that burned gas like crazy but in which he had tons of fun with his pals carting their mountain bikes and ski's around; and a vehicle he still fondly talks about. All three managed to have the, I told them, predicted three accidents (of not terrible proportions) before they smartened up. Before which they exclaimed oh no we won't Dad ! Moral? Get them a solid used vehicle because they will prang them! Mine all emerging unscathed because of the solidness of the vehicles! Mike. Calgary. 1982 TR8 & 2000 Volvo C70 Convertible From ElangTR4 at aol.com Sat Nov 22 07:30:57 2008 From: ElangTR4 at aol.com (ElangTR4 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 09:30:57 EST Subject: [TR] cars for kids Message-ID: I need to add to this thread too. Great story Steve Ball, and Jerry, a 37 Chevy??? I didn't think you were that old! Thanks guys. My first car was a 75 Volkswagen Rabbit. Probably one of the first sold here I think. Fun to drive and good fuel mileage, but electrical gremlins that make Lucas look good. That and whenever the car was left out in a rainstorm there might be an inch or more of standing water on the floor. Finally chased that down to a defective replacement windshield gasket. My son has a 97 Toyota Corolla with 135,000 miles on it when it arrived over 2 years ago. All we've ever done is add gas and change the oil. Always starts and runs great no matter how long it sits and it gets over 30 MPG. A great transportation appliance, but nothing more. Eric L. 71 TR6 **************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From ZoboHerald at aol.com Sat Nov 22 07:50:53 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 09:50:53 EST Subject: [TR] 1)Engine Block Interior, Liner Paint &2)Venting Message-ID: In a message dated 11/21/2008 11:54:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, kvacek at ameritech.net writes: I thought that racers had discovered [Glyptal's] usefulness for race engines maybe 30 years ago, for smoothing out the inside of blocks to allow oil to flow back to the pan (and thus the pump) faster... ==AM== Could be. I used to autocross an ex-GP Spitfire 4 that we "rescued" from a barn in 1983. It had been a regional-level SCCA race car until the mid-1970s. We actually didn't have to go inside the engine until 1995, when it got new rings and bearings, at which time I discovered that the inside of the engine block had been painted with Glyptal. Must've been pretty good stuff way back when, 'cause it still looked perfect! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 22 07:59:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 06:59:50 -0800 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081122145950.EGMF7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I'm installing new rear brake cylinders in our 76 TR6, and > having a difficult time getting the springy locking plates > inserted between the backing plate and the cylinder with the > E-brake lever blocking access. > Anyone have any tips from personal experience in refitting > these things? Many of the books have an incorrect illustration of how the plates go; plus I believe Bob has the sequence wrong. What I do is leave the brake lever off while installing first the smallest plate (with the open side away from the lever and the bent tips away from the backing plate) and then the larger plate with the bent tips in the same orientation (between the smaller one and the backing plate). That leaves enough slack that you can now install the handbrake lever with a moderate amount of force. Then drive the third plate (the large flat one) into place between the first two plates, from the side away from the handbrake lever. Keep tapping on it until both of the tabs from the other large plate drop into the slots. Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat Nov 22 08:16:58 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 10:16:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. References: <8CB1A87C0D5CBBE-51C-1315@webmail-me08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <007201c94cb5$5d347400$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> With all due respect, the Danielson method is doing it the hard way. The three pieces are orientated properly in the photos, but the order of assembly should be: 1. Insert the long piece, with the locking tabs up, from the brake lever side. 2. Insert the shortest piece, also from the brake lever side 3. Insert the brake lever 4. Insert the remaining long piece between the first two pieces from the side opposite the brake lever until the tabs from the bottom piece lock in place. You'll have to tap it home with a light hammer and a punch or screw driver. 5. Install the dust cover. It does NOT go between the 1st plate and the backing plate, but fits the periphery of the 3 plate assembly. If it was placed under the first plate, it would prevent the assembly from sliding along the backing plate easily. Ed Woods And, yes, rubber grease, Girling green or equivalent, should be used throughout, especially between the brake cylinder and the backing plate. From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Nov 22 09:14:19 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 11:14:19 -0500 Subject: [TR] cars for kids In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I started out with a 1964 Rambler Classic. I couldn't get in much trouble on the road but I do remember it having reclining seats, should I ever need to pull over and take a nap if I was tired from staying up late doing my homework the night before.......next came a 1970 VW bug that I painted and hopped up a bit, that was traded for a 1964 Chevy van complete with carpeting in the back and HUGE speakers. needed the van to have room for the afro I sported back in the day. I think next was a 1968 442 with a modified 455cu.in. beast in it that I used to run low 13's in. Ran .02 seconds under the national record in that car once. I think I got 6 MPG in that car. Sold it because it was my daily driver and couldn't keep gas in it. Then vehicles got pretty boring for a couple of decades until I purchased the TR6 in 1991. You know the rest of the story.... Marty From: ElangTR4 at aol.com Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 09:30:57 -0500 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] cars for kids I need to add to this thread too. Great story Steve Ball, and Jerry, a 37 Chevy??? I didn't think you were that old! Thanks guys. My first car was a 75 Volkswagen Rabbit. Probably one of the first sold here I think. Fun to drive and good fuel mileage, but electrical gremlins that _________________________________________________________________ Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_access_1 12008 From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Nov 22 09:42:20 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 08:42:20 -0800 Subject: [TR] 1)Engine Block Interior, Liner Paint &2)Venting In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4928366C.9010803@comcast.net> My TR3 block still has the original shiny black coating inside that was applied by the factory. I assumed that this was just some sort of black enamel. Did the factory use Glyptal? What ever it is has held up really well for being coated with oil for the last 50 years. Mike > Could be. I used to autocross an ex-GP Spitfire 4 that we "rescued" from a > barn in 1983. It had been a regional-level SCCA race car until the mid-1970s. > We actually didn't have to go inside the engine until 1995, when it got new > rings and bearings, at which time I discovered that the inside of the engine > block had been painted with Glyptal. Must've been pretty good stuff way back > when, 'cause it still looked perfect! > > --Andy Mace From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 22 11:12:37 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 13:12:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. In-Reply-To: <007201c94cb5$5d347400$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <8CB1A87C0D5CBBE-51C-1315@webmail-me08.sysops.aol.com> <007201c94cb5$5d347400$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <6439EE2F113A4559A34658BE6AA8144D@BOBSNEWPC> OK.... I just pulled up the Buckeye article (http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Rear/Rear.htm) that I used as my guide when I did the rear brakes. If I'm looking at the pictures correctly, I have everything exactly as they show it, including the rubber dust cover which they show between the 1st and 2nd plate. Well, it's not actually between but around the 1st plate. Or am I missing something? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Woods Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 10:17 AM To: tom628 at verizon.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; acekraut11 at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. With all due respect, the Danielson method is doing it the hard way. The three pieces are orientated properly in the photos, but the order of assembly should be: 1. Insert the long piece, with the locking tabs up, from the brake lever side. 2. Insert the shortest piece, also from the brake lever side 3. Insert the brake lever 4. Insert the remaining long piece between the first two pieces from the side opposite the brake lever until the tabs from the bottom piece lock in place. You'll have to tap it home with a light hammer and a punch or screw driver. 5. Install the dust cover. It does NOT go between the 1st plate and the backing plate, but fits the periphery of the 3 plate assembly. If it was placed under the first plate, it would prevent the assembly from sliding along the backing plate easily. Ed Woods And, yes, rubber grease, Girling green or equivalent, should be used throughout, especially between the brake cylinder and the backing plate. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 22 12:15:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 11:15:06 -0800 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. In-Reply-To: <6439EE2F113A4559A34658BE6AA8144D@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <20081122191506.XDGL19287.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Or am I missing something? I don't think you are missing anything ... this is one of the rare cases where I disagree with Nelson as well. Here's the text from the TR3 factory manual, that I believe is correct : (b) Refitting the Rear Wheel Cylinder Mount the wheel cylinder on to the backplate with the neck through the large slot. Replace the distance piece between cylinder neck and backplate, with the open end away from handbrake lever location. The two cranked lips must also be away from the backplate. Insert the spring plate between the distance piece and backplate, also with open end away from handbrake lever location and the two cranked lips away from the backplate. Replace handbrake lever. Locate the retaining plate between the distance piece and spring plate (open end towards the handbrake lever), tap into position until the two cranked tips of the spring plate locate in the retaining plate. Fit the rubber dust cover. Attach the pressure pipe union to the cylinder and connection to the handbrake lever. Replace the shoes, brake drum, and bleed the system. Finally re-fit wheels, Randall From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Nov 22 12:27:58 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 14:27:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. References: <8CB1A87C0D5CBBE-51C-1315@webmail-me08.sysops.aol.com> <007201c94cb5$5d347400$6700a8c0@Edscomputer> <6439EE2F113A4559A34658BE6AA8144D@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: Thanks to all who replied.That's excellent informaton, and really clarifies things. This list is just great. It seems that the PO's "restorer", who rebuilt the entire brake system never reinstalled the smallest of the 3 locking plates and then assembled the other 2 in the oppposite of the recommended directions . It was a bit of a bear to disassemble, and now I realize I'm missing the smallest of the 3 plates. Everything seems like it should still be very tight, but should I hold off final assembly and driving until I can order that 3rd small plate? I don't want to have a safety issue, tho we've been driving it that way for a couple of years now. Thanks again, folks. Tom From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 22 14:48:48 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 16:48:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. In-Reply-To: References: <8CB1A87C0D5CBBE-51C-1315@webmail-me08.sysops.aol.com><007201c94cb5$5d347400$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><6439EE2F113A4559A34658BE6AA8144D@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <2DAA19B2EFDD40CF9BA8C634C60B4A79@BOBSNEWPC> Tom, That small plate is the one that locks it all together. But it sounds like you've been driving it that way for some time now. Personally, I wouldn't drive without it but that's just my opinion. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Note Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 2:28 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'Ed Woods'; triumphs at autox.team.net; 'Aaron Cropley' Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. Thanks to all who replied.That's excellent informaton, and really clarifies things. This list is just great. It seems that the PO's "restorer", who rebuilt the entire brake system never reinstalled the smallest of the 3 locking plates and then assembled the other 2 in the oppposite of the recommended directions . It was a bit of a bear to disassemble, and now I realize I'm missing the smallest of the 3 plates. Everything seems like it should still be very tight, but should I hold off final assembly and driving until I can order that 3rd small plate? I don't want to have a safety issue, tho we've been driving it that way for a couple of years now. Thanks again, folks. Tom This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 22 15:13:05 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 17:13:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. In-Reply-To: <20081122191506.XDGL19287.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <6439EE2F113A4559A34658BE6AA8144D@BOBSNEWPC> <20081122191506.XDGL19287.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: I just checked the Haynes manual which is useless........basically says to remove the plates and installation is in the reverse order. So I checked the "TR6 Repair Operations Manual" that I have in PDF format and that says to do it in the same order as in the Buckeye article. Did something change from the TR3 to the TR6? All I care about is that my rear brakes are properly installed. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 2:15 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. > Or am I missing something? I don't think you are missing anything ... this is one of the rare cases where I disagree with Nelson as well. Here's the text from the TR3 factory manual, that I believe is correct : (b) Refitting the Rear Wheel Cylinder Mount the wheel cylinder on to the backplate with the neck through the large slot. Replace the distance piece between cylinder neck and backplate, with the open end away from handbrake lever location. The two cranked lips must also be away from the backplate. Insert the spring plate between the distance piece and backplate, also with open end away from handbrake lever location and the two cranked lips away from the backplate. Replace handbrake lever. Locate the retaining plate between the distance piece and spring plate (open end towards the handbrake lever), tap into position until the two cranked tips of the spring plate locate in the retaining plate. Fit the rubber dust cover. Attach the pressure pipe union to the cylinder and connection to the handbrake lever. Replace the shoes, brake drum, and bleed the system. Finally re-fit wheels, Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From nafzigerg at yahoo.com Sat Nov 22 18:47:07 2008 From: nafzigerg at yahoo.com (Gary Nafziger) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 17:47:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] synching carbs Message-ID: <326961.30339.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> list, someone mentioned buying a air flow sensing dial guage from JC Whitney which I did. It was advertised as not interfering with the air flow. I've used it once and it did work as advertised. It was very reasonable also...........seems it was $30 or less. gary n. From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Nov 22 19:27:05 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 18:27:05 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque Message-ID: <4928BF79.1010101@comcast.net> What's the torque spec for the nut the holds the front spindle onto the vertical link for a TR3? My shop manual doesn't specify the torque for these. They must be pretty tight because the spindle really let go with a bang when I pressed it out of the vertical link! Thanks, Mike From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 22 20:53:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 19:53:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque In-Reply-To: <4928BF79.1010101@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20081123035319.PKDQ4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > What's the torque spec for the nut the holds the front > spindle onto the vertical link for a TR3? My TR4 manual says 55-60 ft-lb, should be the same. > They > must be pretty tight because the spindle really let go with a > bang when I pressed it out of the vertical link! That's known as a locking taper; it works it's way tighter over time. If you think those are fun, just wait until you try the rear hubs ! Randall From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Nov 22 22:06:49 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 00:06:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. References: <8CB1A87C0D5CBBE-51C-1315@webmail-me08.sysops.aol.com><007201c94cb5$5d347400$6700a8c0@Edscomputer><6439EE2F113A4559A34658BE6AA8144D@BOBSNEWPC> <2DAA19B2EFDD40CF9BA8C634C60B4A79@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <4F5D798E288E4EEF88737A02D085B576@Toms> Yes, thanks Bob. I figured it must be pretty important. After I thought about it I ordered the "Fitting Kit" from LBC Car Co., which has all the plates and the dust boot. Thanks to everyone for their input. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Tom Note'" ; Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 4:48 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. > Tom, > That small plate is the one that locks it all together. But it sounds like > you've been driving it that way for some time now. Personally, I wouldn't > drive without it but that's just my opinion. > >> http://www.team.net/archive From mlang99 at comcast.net Sat Nov 22 21:16:48 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 20:16:48 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque In-Reply-To: <20081123035319.PKDQ4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081123035319.PKDQ4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4928D930.7050701@comcast.net> Thanks Randall. The rear hubs are one of the next things on the list. Randall wrote: >> What's the torque spec for the nut the holds the front >> spindle onto the vertical link for a TR3? >> > > My TR4 manual says 55-60 ft-lb, should be the same. > > >> They >> must be pretty tight because the spindle really let go with a >> bang when I pressed it out of the vertical link! >> > > That's known as a locking taper; it works it's way tighter over time. If > you think those are fun, just wait until you try the rear hubs ! > > Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 23 05:01:50 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 07:01:50 EST Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. Message-ID: When I got my 3A from the PO my rear brakes were that way, with the smallest "locking plate" missing. It wasn't done by the guy I bought it from, but likely the guy before him. Apparently, he couldn't figure out the process so he left it off. It had been that way for many years, by the looks of things, and worked fine. It was set up that way for a reason so I corrected it, and would not advocate leaving it off. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Nov 23 10:06:15 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 10:06:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque In-Reply-To: <4928D930.7050701@comcast.net> References: <20081123035319.PKDQ4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> <4928D930.7050701@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7bb181af0811230906r70cf3094s6d8618e531eb36b3@mail.gmail.com> A low-yield nuclear warhead applied in just the right spot should do it (IOW, those things can be wicked tight). On 11/22/08, Michael Lang wrote: > Thanks Randall. The rear hubs are one of the next things on the list. From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Nov 23 09:38:14 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 08:38:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque In-Reply-To: <20081123120210.RTBT4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081123120210.RTBT4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <492986F6.3020701@comcast.net> Randall, Wow! Lots of good information. Based on this, I won't just throw it in the press and start pushing on it. Ken's approach sounds relatively easy to set up so I will have to give it a try. I will let you know how it works. Thanks, Mike Randall wrote: > Michael : > > The rear hubs are typically so tight that the hub is not strong enough to be > simply pressed off, without distorting the face of the hub. You need to > bolt something heavy that supports the face, similar to the way the original > Churchill tool did. > > Or, Ken describes an intriguing alternative here > http://192.94.170.51/start/phorum/read.php?1,15880,15982#msg-15982 > that might be worth a try. Haven't had occasion to try it myself yet, but I > will when the time comes. > > Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 23 13:00:17 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 15:00:17 EST Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque Message-ID: In a message dated 11/23/2008 12:45:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mlang99 at comcast.net writes: Or, Ken describes an intriguing alternative here > http://192.94.170.51/start/phorum/read.php?1,15880,15982#msg-15982 > that might be worth a try. Haven't had occasion to try it myself yet, but I > will when the time comes. > > Randall Randall, Did you ever receive the pictures to which he refers? I would like to include this in my library of "When the time comes". David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Nov 23 14:48:58 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:48:58 -0000 Subject: [TR] synching carbs References: <326961.30339.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I've been following this general thread for almost all the time (I think) that its been running and I have to say I'm becoming disappointed in what appears to be the level of enthusiasm many are showing for the carb balancing device. Aren't we all getting a bit too over-dependent on gadgetry? What's wrong with the 'old fashioned' way described ad nauseam in a plethora of workshop manuals and car handbooks? Mixture strength can easily be checked by pushing the palm of your hand against the exhaust tailpipe to verify misfires and smoke - and to then 'smell' the palm for richness or weakness. Yes, you really can 'smell' it! Having then initially set the slow idle, you can use a short piece of garden hose pipe to one ear to compare the level and pitch of intake hiss. One of my 'tools' (and I copied it from many colleagues) was to use an old twin tube stethoscope. That way, on a twin SU set up, you can hear the hiss in 'stereo' and do the fine tuning that way. I later graduated to a single tube steth that in itself was extremely useful for diagnosing other internal rumbles and rattles before they became serious. I guess some may think all this too non-scientific? For the record, I used those bits of equipment less than a month back to reset the carbs on the UK Raffle Spitfire before it went in for its annual (and mandatory) safety test. It fires up instantly from cold, the choke can be pushed fully home within two minutes and the exhaust emissions were within limits established for a car of its age. I'm no ace mechanic but you really can accurately set up a set of dual or triple SU's without having to resort to a colour tune and visual balancer and all achieving exactly the same result. What's more. countless thousands of people have done it too and its certainly not rocket science. Jonmac From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 23 15:43:11 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 17:43:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] synching carbs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4929962F.435.144AACAB@localhost> On 23 Nov 2008 at 21:48, John Macartney wrote: > Aren't we all getting a bit too over-dependent on gadgetry? > What's wrong with the 'old fashioned' way... Well, I have several gadgets of a type called a auto-mobile carriage (a.k.a. horseless carriage) which I use to go to work every morning. My most favorite is something called a "GT6". The old-fashioned way (using my feet) would have me arrive at work two or more days after I'm suppose to start work every morning, not even counting the time to get back home again. Without these gadgets I would quickly get even more behinder than I already am. I suppose I am over-dependent. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mmarr at notwires.com Sun Nov 23 15:57:01 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 16:57:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] synching carbs References: <326961.30339.qm@web59403.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1BE15624B26C4D9EA886672C9B90C640@mikeslaptop> I've used this method for almost forty years. Never felt the need for the new-fangled gauges and such. And I set the mixture by the "lifting the carb piston" method. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 3:48 PM Subject: Re: [TR] synching carbs > really can 'smell' it! Having then initially set the slow idle, you can > use a short piece of garden hose pipe to one ear to compare the level and > pitch of intake hiss. One of my 'tools' (and I copied it from many > colleagues) was to use an old twin tube stethoscope. That way, on a twin > SU set up, you can hear the hiss in 'stereo' and do the fine tuning that > way. I later graduated to a single tube steth that in itself was extremely > useful for diagnosing other internal rumbles and rattles before they > became serious. From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Nov 22 16:02:20 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 17:02:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque Message-ID: <380-220081162223220171@earthlink.net> Hi group, I read the description of Ken's alternate method to the Churchill hub pulling tool. It makes sense if you look at a cross sectional view of the rear hub. The drawing I used was on page 390 of the Bentley "The Complete Official Triumph TR6 & TR250 1967-1976" manual. Before I dig out one of my spare hubs, does anyone know offhand what size the axle nut threads are and what bore size is in the hub portion? Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN >> Or, Ken describes an intriguing alternative here > > http://192.94.170.51/start/phorum/read.php?1,15880,15982#msg-15982 > > that might be worth a try. Haven't had occasion to try it myself yet, > but I > > will when the time comes. > > > > Randall > > > > Randall, > Did you ever receive the pictures to which he refers? I would like to > include this in my library of "When the time comes". From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 23 16:36:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 15:36:10 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081123233611.NNER7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Did you ever receive the pictures to which he refers? Unfortunately, no. I think I understand the description; but won't know for certain until the time comes to try it. Which may not be so far away; the project TR3 left a puddle of gear oil under the left rear after I left the right side up in the air for a few days. But I've decided to try to get it on the road first, and then re-evaluate the rear axle seals. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Sun Nov 23 17:51:40 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 17:51:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque In-Reply-To: <20081123233611.NNER7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081123233611.NNER7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <7bb181af0811231651o1c7239f8gda502b75fb8db95e@mail.gmail.com> On 11/23/08, Randall wrote: >...the project TR3 left a puddle of gear oil > under the left rear after I left the right side up in the air for a few > days... If the seal on the axle allows gear oil to get past should the seal in the hub still contain it? Or is the seal in the hub just designed to keep grease in? Geo From mlang99 at comcast.net Sun Nov 23 16:49:14 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 15:49:14 -0800 Subject: [TR] Spindle Nut Torque In-Reply-To: <20081123233611.NNER7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20081123233611.NNER7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4929EBFA.8060400@comcast.net> I also think that I have a pretty good picture in my mind of what was described. I will probably be trying it in about a month or so. If all goes well, I will take some pictures and send them to everyone. I had to pull the hubs on the back of a TR7 a few years ago. It took a huge amount of force and heat from a torch before they popped apart. It always makes me a little jumpy waiting for the "bang". I hope my TR3 hubs come apart as easy as described using Ken's technique! Mike Randall wrote: >> Did you ever receive the pictures to which he refers? >> > > Unfortunately, no. I think I understand the description; but won't know for > certain until the time comes to try it. > > Which may not be so far away; the project TR3 left a puddle of gear oil > under the left rear after I left the right side up in the air for a few > days. But I've decided to try to get it on the road first, and then > re-evaluate the rear axle seals. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Nov 23 20:51:39 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 22:51:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] small donut wheel Message-ID: <007801c94de7$f67de640$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, Seems like I remember someone saying a while back that a some late model donut (emergency American wheel) would make a good spare for a TR3. Well, I located one that has the same lug pattern and not intefere with the b. calipers. But, it doesn't stand as tall! The tire on it says 125/70 D15. It lacks about 4" being the same height as my TR3's tire, so that's about 2" shorter to the ground. Of course, this would tilt the car (don't know if that's permissable?) but, it might be ok for emergency use. Then again, besides smaller, I can't think of any virtues for carrying this size tire and wheel. Can anyone help? Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From rjwilson1250 at gmail.com Sun Nov 23 22:04:51 2008 From: rjwilson1250 at gmail.com (Roger Wilson) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:04:51 -0800 Subject: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. In-Reply-To: <20081122191506.XDGL19287.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <6439EE2F113A4559A34658BE6AA8144D@BOBSNEWPC> <20081122191506.XDGL19287.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: I just replaced the rear wheel cylinders on my TR3 last weekend and I followed the factory manual. I found that the illustration didn't match the text and shows the spring plate & retaining plate facing in the opposite directions to how it is explained in the text. I followed the text and it all went together fine. A little grease on both sides of the retaining plate made the second set go together much easier. I did have to file down the Moss shoes to properly clear the drums - what a pain that was. Roger Wilson '60 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 11:15 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing rear brake cyls. > Or am I missing something? I don't think you are missing anything ... this is one of the rare cases where I disagree with Nelson as well. Here's the text from the TR3 factory manual, that I believe is correct : (b) Refitting the Rear Wheel Cylinder Mount the wheel cylinder on to the backplate with the neck through the large slot. Replace the distance piece between cylinder neck and backplate, with the open end away from handbrake lever location. The two cranked lips must also be away from the backplate. Insert the spring plate between the distance piece and backplate, also with open end away from handbrake lever location and the two cranked lips away from the backplate. Replace handbrake lever. Locate the retaining plate between the distance piece and spring plate (open end towards the handbrake lever), tap into position until the two cranked tips of the spring plate locate in the retaining plate. Fit the rubber dust cover. Attach the pressure pipe union to the cylinder and connection to the handbrake lever. Replace the shoes, brake drum, and bleed the system. Finally re-fit wheels, Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as rjwilson1250 at gmail.com http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 24 00:03:49 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 23:03:49 -0800 Subject: [TR] small donut wheel In-Reply-To: <007801c94de7$f67de640$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081124070349.XLWI24754.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Of course, this would tilt the car (don't > know if that's permissable?) but, it might be ok for > emergency use. Then again, besides smaller, I can't think of > any virtues for carrying this size tire and wheel. Can anyone help? Well, for me, the main virtue was that it would fit into the early tire well; while none of the other 15" tires I could source would do so easily. But the later tire wells were larger, so you might not have as much trouble as I did. I have driven some 100 miles on it, at freeway speeds, with no issues. The car does tilt somewhat and feel "funny", but it drove OK. However, I think I got a T125/90-15 instead of a T125/70, plus my other tires are somewhat shorter than stock anyway, so YMMV. Randall From wbmcleod at gmail.com Mon Nov 24 05:45:47 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 05:45:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas distributor ID Message-ID: Could anyone identify a distributor numbered 41497 A with 13 73 underneath? It has a circular rotor that I have never seen before, but appears standard otherwise. And is there a web site out there for Lucas identification? Thanks in advance, Bill Slightly Classics Tucson From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Nov 24 06:55:43 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 08:55:43 EST Subject: [TR] synching carbs Message-ID: In a message dated 11/23/2008 4:57:52 PM Central Standard Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: > I've used this method for almost forty years. Never felt the need for the > new-fangled gauges and such. And I set the mixture by the "lifting the carb > > piston" method. > One caveat: This works well on pre-1968 US model cars. Post 1967 cars do not tune up using this method. Why? The reason this works is because the designers and tuners profiled the needle to work this way. It is much more than just he nature of the beast. It shows just how clever these blokes were as it took work, attention to detail and ingenuity to design cars that were easy to work on. The 50's and early 60's model cars were designed to be maintained by their owners using only rudimentary tools. No need for expensive gas analyzers ore even timing lights. Just adjust the timing to suppress preignition and you're good to go. Why does lifting the piston work? First off, it only works if you lift the piston the prescribed amount. Lifting too much or too little will give you a false indication of mixture. But this works because the needles are profiled to run a bit rich at idle. Lifting the piston will lean out the mixture by a certain amount. If the jet is set properly the extra lean mixture will mix with the rich mixture already in the manifold and provide a more optimum mixture and the idle speed will pick up. After the rich mixture's effect is dissipated the engine will now be running lean and the idle will drop. If the adjustments are off you will get a different response. When the US implemented emission controls the needle profile had to be changed because you can't meet the emissions standard with a rich idle. Post 1967 US models actually run a bit lean at idle and lifting the piston to set these will not only direct you in the wrong direction but lead to a frustrating experience since Strombergs simply cannot be adjusted enough to behave in the manner described above. Also note that carbs that can be tuned using the lift the piston method come with a piston lifting pin on the side of the carburetor. If you carb does not have this pin it is likely you cannot tune it this way. So, hats off to those clever blokes in the British motor industry but the system did have its limitations. Cheers Dave From fishplate at charter.net Mon Nov 24 07:07:00 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 6:07:00 -0800 Subject: [TR] small donut wheel In-Reply-To: <007801c94de7$f67de640$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20081124090701.TOG4L.292579.root@mp17> ---- dorpaul wrote: > The tire on it says 125/70 D15. It lacks about 4" being the same height > as my TR3's tire, so that's about 2" shorter to the ground. Of course, this > would tilt the car (don't know if that's permissable?) but, it might be ok for > emergency use. Using a tire like that on the rear will greatly accelerate the wear on the differential. Using it on the front will make the handling interesting, at best. That will be OK for a short distance, but be aware that it will eventually lead to trouble. I don't know how long it will take, though. If you can find a tire the correct height, you will be much better off... Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Nov 24 07:08:19 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 14:08:19 +0000 Subject: [TR] small donut wheel In-Reply-To: <007801c94de7$f67de640$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <007801c94de7$f67de640$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: I carry a donut for a spare in my 60 TR3A. It is as most of them smaller than the diameter of the dtock tires. It is only meant for emergency use and should not be driven on at freeway speeds or for long periods of time. I also carry a can of Flat Fix. The spare is really there to add rear weight to the car and in case I destroy a tire. Best regards, Tom > From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 22:51:39 -0500 > Subject: [TR] small donut wheel > > List, > > Seems like I remember someone saying a while back that a some late model donut > (emergency American wheel) would make a good spare for a TR3. Well, I located > one that has the same lug pattern and not intefere with the b. calipers. But, > it doesn't stand as tall! > The tire on it says 125/70 D15. It lacks about 4" being the same height > as my TR3's tire, so that's about 2" shorter to the ground. Of course, this > would tilt the car (don't know if that's permissable?) but, it might be ok for > emergency use. Then again, besides smaller, I can't think of any virtues for > carrying this size tire and wheel. Can anyone help? > > Thanks, Paul 60 TR3 > > -- > I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. > We are a community of 5.6 million users fighting spam. > SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. > Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len > > The Professional version does not have this message > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Color coding for safety: Windows Live Hotmail alerts you to suspicious email. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_safety_1 12008 From mmarr at notwires.com Mon Nov 24 07:48:58 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 08:48:58 -0600 Subject: [TR] synching carbs References: Message-ID: <7B9C6D26403C493796C9C8736F49F8FD@mikeslaptop> ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Monday, November 24, 2008 7:55 AM > > Also note that carbs that can be tuned using the lift the piston method > come > with a piston lifting pin on the side of the carburetor. If you carb does > not > have this pin it is likely you cannot tune it this way. > > So, hats off to those clever blokes in the British motor industry but the > system did have its limitations. > Good point on the later carbs, Dave. I should have added the caveat that the newest set of twin SUs I have worked on are on my 1960 3A! I did drive a 1974 MGBGT for a few years (it was the early 1974 with twin carbs - they changed to a single carb in the middle of the year), but I bought it new and never had the need to synch the carbs, so I cannot say whether the "lift the piston" method worked or not - I never tried it. As to the lifting pin, I don't think it is always true to say that you could not adjust the mixture this way if the pin were not present. I drove and worked on a lot of different cars with smaller single SUs (1 1/4s, usually) back in my youth in England, and I'm sure I remember reading in one shop manual or another (possibly for a Morris Minor) that you could use a long, narrow screwdriver to lift the piston, after removing the air cleaner, of course. I know that I used that method myself a lot. Mike Plainfield, IL From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Nov 24 10:39:28 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 09:39:28 -0800 Subject: [TR] synching carbs In-Reply-To: <7B9C6D26403C493796C9C8736F49F8FD@mikeslaptop> References: <7B9C6D26403C493796C9C8736F49F8FD@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: There is a great "tongue in cheek" book named "How to Repair you Foreign Car". The chapter on fuel systems states" Carburetor ... a French word for DO NOT TOUCH ... >Good point on the later carbs, Dave. I should have added the caveat >that the newest set of twin SUs I have worked on are on my 1960 3A! >I did drive a 1974 MGBGT for a few years (it was the early 1974 with >twin carbs - they changed to a single carb in the middle of the >year), but I bought it new and never had the need to synch the >carbs, so I cannot say whether the "lift the piston" method worked >or not - I never tried it. > >As to the lifting pin, I don't think it is always true to say that >you could not adjust the mixture this way if the pin were not >present. I drove and worked on a lot of different cars with smaller >single SUs (1 1/4s, usually) back in my youth in England, and I'm >sure I remember reading in one shop manual or another (possibly for >a Morris Minor) that you could use a long, narrow screwdriver to >lift the piston, after removing the air cleaner, of course. I know >that I used that method myself a lot. > >Mike >Plainfield, IL _______________________________________________ -- Bill Pugh anabil007@ comcast.net Wallace, CA From pethier at comcast.net Mon Nov 24 11:15:13 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 18:15:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] synching carbs Message-ID: <112420081815.2591.492AEF310004E0CF00000A1F22155538949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: Bill & AnnaBelle > There is a great "tongue in cheek" book named "How to Repair you > Foreign Car". The chapter on fuel systems states" > Carburetor ... a French word for DO NOT TOUCH ... The late, great Dick O'Kane. One of my most-treasured volumes. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Mon Nov 24 17:49:37 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 17:49:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lucas distributor ID In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0811241649p5c785b12oc2faf00fd60764d3@mail.gmail.com> Hey Bill, Lookee here: http://www.starchak.ca/tech/pdfs/lucas.pdf Use the magnifying function to spare your eyes. Geo On 11/24/08, William McLeod wrote: > Could anyone identify a distributor numbered 41497 A with 13 73 > underneath? It has a circular rotor that I have never seen before, > but appears standard otherwise. And is there a web site out there for > Lucas identification? Thanks in advance, Bill > Slightly Classics > Tucson > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ahwahnee18 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From opposumking at verizon.net Tue Nov 25 03:30:49 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 05:30:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] small donut wheel References: <007801c94de7$f67de640$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <001e01c94ee8$e2cd3bd0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Though for what it's worth some years ago one of the car magazines ran cross country on the emergency spare. It's nowhere near as limited a tire as claimed in owners manuals and such. ----- Original Message ----- From: "tom white" To: ; Sent: Monday, November 24, 2008 9:08 AM Subject: Re: [TR] small donut wheel >I carry a donut for a spare in my 60 TR3A. It is as most of them smaller >than > the diameter of the dtock tires. It is only meant for emergency use and > should not be driven on at freeway speeds or for long periods of time. I > also > carry a can of Flat Fix. The spare is really there to add rear weight to > the > car and in case I destroy a tire. From DLylis at aol.com Tue Nov 25 04:33:34 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 06:33:34 EST Subject: [TR] small donut wheel Message-ID: When I got my 3A there was a bias ply tire of no more than 4" in overall width in the spare boot, that had clearly never seen a roadway. It appears to be a vintage 1960 "donut tire"! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from Dell. Shop Deals (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http ://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l) From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Nov 25 06:12:41 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 08:12:41 EST Subject: [TR] small donut wheel Message-ID: In a message dated 11/25/2008 4:31:07 AM Central Standard Time, opposumking at verizon.net writes: > Though for what it's worth some years ago one of the car magazines ran > cross > country on the emergency spare. It's nowhere near as limited a tire as > claimed in owners manuals and such. > Many years ago one of the auto mags fitted a car with four of these and tested it. It performed surprisingly well, as I recall. Dave From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Nov 25 06:48:44 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 13:48:44 -0000 Subject: [TR] Refurbishing wire wheels Message-ID: My younger son has just acquired a somewhat pristine (almost) Spitfire 'competitor' that will soon be moving into the family. Though I say it myself, it'll be fun to again be at the wheel of a Midget again, especially one with an 'A' series engine. Sorry, Mr. Curry - but I'm a great Spridget enthusiast as well! The query I have of you all concerns the refurbishing of the wire wheels. At some stage in the past they've been repainted (sprayed) and the end result isn't too pleasing on the eye. I feel the best route is to have them shot-blasted all over and then powder coated. Before taking that serendipitous journey, I wondered if anyone else has done this previously - as I'm sure someone has. I'm just too busy to spend time probing the 'archivives' to check. Obviously, I plan to give the blasted wheels a thorough visual check between blasting and re-colouring but am just a bit curious of how they might look when powder coated. What I want to avoid at all costs is what I can best describe as 'chunky spokes' - especially where one spoke may cross over another. I doubt this would happen but just thought I'd ask those who have previously BTDT. Off list replies probably better as some purists might flame me for MG Midget issues cluttering up a Triumph list! Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From pethier at comcast.net Tue Nov 25 07:28:23 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 14:28:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] Refurbishing wire wheels Message-ID: <112520081428.11001.492C0B87000E366500002AF922155754749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "John Macartney" > Sorry, Mr. Curry - but I'm a > great Spridget > enthusiast as well! As am I. >The query I have of you all concerns the refurbishing of the > wire wheels. I don't know what the shipping and customs charges do to the equation, but if you were in the States I would suggest that you would be far better off fitting new Dayton wire wheels. > Off list replies probably better as some purists might flame me for MG Midget > issues cluttering up a > Triumph list! I'd suggest british-cars at autox.team.net instead. The volume there is quite manageable since it split off all these marque lists. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 62 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 07 Saturn Ion 3 2.4, 93 Suburban, 94 Miata C-package, 79 Caterham 7 pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Nov 25 07:42:29 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 09:42:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Refurbishing wire wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB1D232D677416-1348-8D9@WEBMAIL-MZ18.sysops.aol.com> John, I have seen some powder coated wire wheels on a Jaguar that looked fantastic.? Assuming the wheels are in good condition after the post blast inspection I would say go for it. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 8:48 am Subject: [TR] Refurbishing wire wheels My younger son has just acquired a somewhat pristine (almost) Spitfire 'competitor' that will soon be moving into the family. Though I say it myself, it'll be fun to again be at the wheel of a Midget again, especially one with an 'A' series engine. Sorry, Mr. Curry - but I'm a great Spridget enthusiast as well! The query I have of you all concerns the refurbishing of the wire wheels.? At some stage in the past they've been repainted (sprayed) and the end result isn't too pleasing on the eye. I feel the best route is to have them shot-blasted all over and then powder coated. Before taking that serendipitous journey, I wondered if anyone else has done this previously - as I'm sure someone has.? I'm just too busy to spend time probing the 'archivives' to check. Obviously, I plan to give the blasted wheels a thorough visual check between blasting and re-colouring but am just a bit curious of how they might look when powder coated. What I want to avoid at all costs is what I can best describe as 'chunky spokes' - especially where one spoke may cross over another. I doubt this would happen but just thought I'd ask those who have previously BTDT.? Off list replies probably better as some purists might flame me for MG Midget issues cluttering up a Triumph list!? ? Jonmac? ? Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009? www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk? ? From dwillner at ptd.net Tue Nov 25 07:45:45 2008 From: dwillner at ptd.net (davewillner) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 09:45:45 -0500 Subject: [TR] Refurbishing wire wheels References: Message-ID: <001601c94f0c$8060f710$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> John, I had my original set of wires on the MGB blasted and powder coated by a very reputable coater last February, the wheels looked fantastic, perfect warm grey color, matched to a tee. After about 2 months I had noticed that around the nipples rust had started creeping out pretty much on every wheel and every spoke. There is no way any type of blasting can get in there so any and all of the rust will eventually creep out and up the spoke and around the nipple, looks now actually worse than before I had the work done. Pretty expensive lesson. I would recommend to have them painted and clear coated, I'm sure there are people on the list that would disagree, but that's my experience. I'm not sure at this point the best method and process to correct mine, I'm thinking of having them blasted, sprayed with a rust encapsulator, i.e. POR 15 type product, Eastwoods, etc. and then have them painted. If I had known, I would of just had them resprayed. My .02 Dave Willner Stroudsburg, PA 59 TR3A Apple Green 70 MGB BRG 70 BSA 441 Victor Special ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 8:48 AM Subject: [TR] Refurbishing wire wheels > My younger son has just acquired a somewhat pristine (almost) Spitfire > 'competitor' that will soon be moving into the family. Though I say it > myself, it'll be fun to again be at the wheel of a Midget again, > especially one with an 'A' series engine. Sorry, Mr. Curry - but I'm a > great Spridget enthusiast as well! The query I have of you all concerns > the refurbishing of the wire wheels. > At some stage in the past they've been repainted (sprayed) and the end > result isn't too pleasing on the eye. I feel the best route is to have > them shot-blasted all over and then powder coated. Before taking that > serendipitous journey, I wondered if anyone else has done this > previously - as I'm sure someone has. > I'm just too busy to spend time probing the 'archivives' to check. > Obviously, I plan to give the blasted wheels a thorough visual check > between blasting and re-colouring but am just a bit curious of how they > might look when powder coated. What I want to avoid at all costs is what I > can best describe as 'chunky spokes' - especially where one spoke may > cross over another. I doubt this would happen but just thought I'd ask > those who have previously BTDT. > Off list replies probably better as some purists might flame me for MG > Midget issues cluttering up a Triumph list! > > Jonmac > > Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > > An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Nov 25 07:46:42 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 09:46:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Refurbishing wire wheels In-Reply-To: <112520081428.11001.492C0B87000E366500002AF922155754749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <112520081428.11001.492C0B87000E366500002AF922155754749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CB1D23C394067C-B38-8D6@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- John Macartney : >The query I have of you all concerns the refurbishing of the wire wheels. ==AM== John, a friend of mine had wire wheels blasted and powder-coated going on ten years ago now. They looked great from the start and still do! If the wheels are in good enough shape, do it! ==AM== Phil Ethier: > Off list replies probably better as some purists might flame me for MG Midget issues cluttering up a Triumph list! I'd suggest british-cars at autox.team.net instead. The volume there is quite manageable since it split off all these marque lists. ==AM== There is also a dedicated "spridgets at autox.team.net" list. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Nov 25 07:48:46 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 09:48:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] small donut wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB1D240E1C6B84-B38-90C@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: DLylis at aol.com When I got my 3A there was a bias ply tire of no more than 4" in overall width in the spare boot, that had clearly never seen a roadway. It appears to be a vintage 1960 "donut tire"! ==AM== If it was a Dunlop Gold Seal, size 5.50 or 5.90 x 15, it probably was the OEM tire! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Nov 25 07:59:50 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 09:59:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] small donut wheel References: <8CB1D240E1C6B84-B38-90C@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <056f01c94f0e$77f485e0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Which prompts another question for pre 1960 TR3's those with the narrow spare wheel well. If you are running wire wheels would you use a 48 spoke wheel as the 60 spoke and 165 tire will not fit. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Mace" To: ; ; Sent: Tuesday, November 25, 2008 9:48 AM Subject: Re: [TR] small donut wheel > -----Original Message----- > From: DLylis at aol.com > > > > > > > > > > > When I got my 3A there was a bias ply tire of no more than 4" in overall > width in the spare boot, that had clearly never seen a roadway. It > appears > to be a vintage 1960 "donut tire"! > > > > ==AM== > If it was a Dunlop Gold Seal, size 5.50 or 5.90 x 15, it probably was the > OEM tire! > > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph > Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) From mmarr at notwires.com Tue Nov 25 08:18:47 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 09:18:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] small donut wheel References: <8CB1D240E1C6B84-B38-90C@WEBMAIL-DY21.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: > When I got my 3A there was a bias ply tire of no more than 4" in overall > width in the spare boot, that had clearly never seen a roadway. It > appears > to be a vintage 1960 "donut tire"! > > > > ==AM== > If it was a Dunlop Gold Seal, size 5.50 or 5.90 x 15, it probably was the > OEM tire! > > > --Andy Mace > Back then, 5.50 were considered wide tires! mike From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Nov 25 12:26:43 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 11:26:43 -0800 Subject: [TR] Refurbishing wire wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8481AF9046874B0AB32CC692D05CD9FA@Induninwlaptop> A friend of mine had his wires on his MGB powder coated with gray and clear, but had some chipping around the knock off and difficulty keeping the knock offs tight. I opted to bead blast and paint / clear coat mine on my 4A - I too had the chipping issue, but a much tighter fit on the knock offs. In all, I think the key is to have the tires off and blast everything, then coat as desired. Then pick a shop that has experience putting tires on wires! I tend to stay away from powder coating where tolerances are concerned due to increase in thickness. Just my opinion. Brian 67 TR4A From dbyam at tds.net Tue Nov 25 15:54:46 2008 From: dbyam at tds.net (Douglas Byam) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 16:54:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Refurbishing Wire Wheels Message-ID: <20081125165446.JS60N.6834.root@webfep14> I have processed many wheels in a Wheelabrator "Tumbleblast". The machine you need has an endless belt curved in a deep "C" shape, inside the cabinet. I placed several wheels in the machine at one time and pushed a pipe through the hubs to keep the wheels from falling over. It even does a fair job where the spokes cross because the shot bounces in all directions in the cabinet. The only negative I can see is some small particles of shot lodge in between the nipples and the holes in the wheel, I think the problem is purely cosmetic. I just had the bunkers for my steam tractor powder coated after blasting and I'm impressed, its a beautiful finish and I suspect it will be as durable as enamel. There may be some issues with the "Faraday Cage Effect" when it comes to getting coverage between the spokes. Like metal plating it may now throw well in a confined area. Doug Byam Hickory Corners MI From FGFO1 at aol.com Tue Nov 25 16:23:42 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 18:23:42 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch pressure Message-ID: Any one know what the approximate line pressure is when you depress the clutch pedal on a TR3? IM trying to bench test the assembly. I put some fluif in there to keep the O ring wet and have hooked up the compressor to see if I can make the pressure plate compress. The transmission is hooked up to the motor. All the pedals, lines, reservoir ETC are out of the car. it would be a real pain to set up a pedal assembly on a piece of ply. thanks Frank Fisher **************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From fishplate at charter.net Tue Nov 25 16:39:15 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 18:39:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20081125233915.PYBZ3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 06:23 PM 11/25/2008, FGFO1 at aol.com wrote: >Any one know what the approximate line pressure is when you depress the >clutch pedal on a TR3? >IM trying to bench test the assembly. I put some fluif in there to keep the O >ring wet and have hooked up the compressor to see if I can make the pressure >plate compress. You won't do it with air, I'd bet. The difference between air and fluif is that one is compressible, the other is not (for our purposes). You can put air pressure in until the cows come home, and I wouldn't think you could move the arm enough to see anything. If you do the arithmetic...I guess it takes about 300 pounds to compress the springs on the pressure plate. I guess the piston in the slave cylinder is about 3/4" in diameter, making the area somewhere around 0.44 square inches. There may be some mechanical advantage in the fork lever, but I don't think it's a lot. So you're looking at maybe 600 pounds per square inch in the pipe, delivered from your pedal. Can that be right? (The pedal, of course, has a huge mechanical advantage.) Don't forget the losses due to friction! Jeff Scarbrough Mathemagicland, Ga. From mmarr at notwires.com Tue Nov 25 18:16:48 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 19:16:48 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch pressure References: <20081125233915.PYBZ3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <871587FCC5444F6D8ABF2B7761C3B2E2@mikeslaptop> > You won't do it with air, I'd bet. The difference between air and fluif > is that one is compressible, the other is not (for our purposes). You can > put air pressure in until the cows come home, and I wouldn't think you > could move the arm enough to see anything. I disagree - you could certainly do it with air, if you have enough pressure. The relative compressibility of the two fluids is immaterial - pressure is pressure. The problem is, your home air compressor will probably produce not more than 125 psig and this will not be enough. > If you do the arithmetic...I guess it takes about 300 pounds to compress > the springs on the pressure plate. I guess the piston in the slave > cylinder is about 3/4" in diameter, making the area somewhere around 0.44 > square inches. There may be some mechanical advantage in the fork lever, > but I don't think it's a lot. So you're looking at maybe 600 pounds per > square inch in the pipe, delivered from your pedal. Can that be right? > (The pedal, of course, has a huge mechanical advantage.) Don't forget the > losses due to friction! Yes, I would guess it is in the 300-600 psig range - I came at it from the opposite direction, however. I assume that the effort required to operate the clutch pedal is about 50#, the mechanical advantage has got to be 4 or 5 to 1, so, if the clutch piston is .44 sq ins then the pressure in the hydraulic system would be 400-500 psig. Mike From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Tue Nov 25 20:07:36 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 22:07:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Rim removal - Non TR question References: <20081125233915.PYBZ3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> <871587FCC5444F6D8ABF2B7761C3B2E2@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: Hi the list: Alas my TR6 sits shivering in my unheated garage. So, I bring to the list a non-TR question. This week-end I performed the twice-annual ritual of the swapping of the snow tires on my daily driver, a 2006 Cadillac DTS. The car has standard steel disc brakes on all four points. The rims are chormed mags. I ran into an odd problem seemingly rust related (on a totally un-rusted car). I jacked up the first corner, undid all five wheel bolts on the first rim and was then still completely unable to remove the rim by hand. Kicking very hard did nothing at all, the rim seemed welded to the car. It took a 10-pound sledge, a baulk of firewood and about 10 good hard whacks around the edge of the rim to have it suddenly spring free, seemingly perfectly fine. The metal surface (the centre of the brake disc) the rim was bolted to was indeed lightly rusted, but not badly. I had to repeat the same performance for each rim on the car. I had a shop put on the snow rims when I got the car last fall, so I don't know if it happened then too. I do not recall the problem when removing the painted rims this spring, so I assume the issue with the fancy rims is the surface rust of the bare metal brake disc binding onto the surface micro-fissures of the chromed rim. It strikes me that this is a bad thing. In the future if faced with a flat tire on the side of the road, I would have to resort to weird tricks to free the rim in order to bolt on the spare. Is there a solution to this problem? It seems that oil or grease on the surface would either evaporate from the brake heat, or much worse, just spread out and cause the brakes to fail. I thought of rubbing a bit of candle wax on, but it might end up the same way. POR might work, but I wondered if it would just end up being the same as epoxying my rims to the car. I definitely want a solution in the spring when it comes time to re-install the summer rims. Any ideas out there? Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 2006 DTS From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue Nov 25 20:17:00 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 22:17:00 EST Subject: [TR] Rim removal - Non TR question Message-ID: In a message dated 11/25/2008 10:07:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: I ran into an odd problem seemingly rust related (on a totally un-rusted car). I jacked up the first corner, undid all five wheel bolts on the first rim and was then still completely unable to remove the rim by hand. Kicking very hard did nothing at all, the rim seemed welded to the car. It took a 10-pound sledge, a baulk of firewood and about 10 good hard whacks around the edge of the rim to have it suddenly spring free, seemingly perfectly fine. The metal surface (the centre of the brake disc) the rim was bolted to was indeed lightly rusted, but not badly. I had to repeat the same performance for each rim on the car. ==AM== I've had this happen a lot in recent years with various cars and regular steel wheels. Hondas, Toyotas, and even a '91 Ford Explorer, where the front wheels had the nasty habit of taking off the auto-locking hubs with them. On all of these, where the problem seemed to be was in the very centers of the wheels, which seem to be more "hub-centric" as opposed to the lug-centric wheels we're used to on Triumphs. I've taken to lightly greasing the inside "rim" of the center of the wheel before replacing it. How long-term a solution this is, I don't yet know. I've also learned just how to sit on the ground, stretch out my legs and kick the snot out of the tire and wheel to get a stubborn one loose (except during the last months of the Explorer, as it sat half-dead in my yard. There was at least one wheel I never did get off again before some sucker offered me a small amount of cash for that rusted beast)! --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: _http://www.vtr.org_ (http://www.vtr.org/) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp %26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001) From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Nov 25 20:19:07 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 21:19:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rim removal - Non TR question References: <20081125233915.PYBZ3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net><871587FCC5444F6D8ABF2B7761C3B2E2@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: Anti-sieze. I always put it on center holes and sheel studs, and also on the cones of lug nuts. And also (lightly) on the hub end before installing a brake rotor or drum. When lug nuts rust up tight on steel wheels (I know - not your problem, but still...) the thing that usually requires the greatest effort to break free isn't rusty threads but rather rust-selded nut-to-rim cones. I've done this for many decades with no itll effects. However, be aware that torque specs are usually for dry threads and cones, so check for lubricated specs or adjust accordingly. BTW - I did have one tire installer (in the 80's) remove all the anti-sieze with solvent, and he still bitched about the anti-sieze being a safety hazard. He made me sign a note on the receipt to the effect that I'd applied anti-sieze, not him. Karl > Is there a solution to this problem? It seems that oil or grease on the > surface would either evaporate from the brake heat, or much worse, just > spread > out and cause the brakes to fail. I thought of rubbing a bit of candle wax > on, > but it might end up the same way. POR might work, but I wondered if it > would > just end up being the same as epoxying my rims to the car. From kvacek at ameritech.net Tue Nov 25 20:20:46 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 21:20:46 -0600 Subject: [TR] Rim removal - Non TR question References: <20081125233915.PYBZ3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net><871587FCC5444F6D8ABF2B7761C3B2E2@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <86579B20FC1746E6BDB04686BDD9840A@KARL> > Anti-sieze. I always put it on center holes and sheel studs Maybe on the WHEEL studs too... ;-) Karl From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 25 22:14:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 21:14:44 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 clutch pressure In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081126051443.RHSI25405.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Any one know what the approximate line pressure is when you > depress the clutch pedal on a TR3? If you dig around on the Buckeye Triumphs site, you should find Nelson's clutch articles. Written for a TR6, but a TR3 should be reasonably similar. The pressure required varies with the clutch plate installed, but is roughly in the 250-300 psi neighborhood. > IM trying to bench test the assembly. I put some fluif in > there to keep the O ring wet and have hooked up the > compressor to see if I can make the pressure plate compress. Alas, not likely. > The transmission is hooked up to the motor. All the pedals, > lines, reservoir ETC are out of the car. it would be a real > pain to set up a pedal assembly on a piece of ply. Haven't measured it, but I'll bet my Mercury Marine oil gun will hit 400 psi ... Of course you'd have to be VERY careful to clean it thoroughly first, as you don't want the least trace of oil or grease in the clutch fluif. Or, arranging a pedal substitute might be easier than trying to mount the pedal assembly ... clamp the MC in a vise then bend a length of all-thread to fit through the other ear and form a pivot for a length of flat iron for the pedal. Or not. Randall From Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov Wed Nov 26 06:07:51 2008 From: Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov (Ron Landis) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 08:07:51 -0500 Subject: [TR] Refurbish Wire Wheels Message-ID: <492D03D6.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> Jo I also had Wires sand blasted and powder coat grey, They turned out great. By the way if anyone wants a set of Wires for a TR250 with splines and inter tubes I have four for sale. Make offer off line Thanks Ron ********************************************************************* Ron Landis, Director Engineering/Utility Services Division Dept. of Public Works - Kent County, MI PH 616-336-4370 FX 616-336-3338 Cell 616-299-0540 ********************************************************************* This message has been prepared on resources owned by Kent County, MI. It is subject to the Acceptable Use Policy of Kent County. From L1J1S at aol.com Wed Nov 26 11:17:07 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 13:17:07 EST Subject: [TR] TR3 STEEL HARDTOP Message-ID: hello, i am looking for a tr3 steel hardtop. can anyone help me? happy thanksgiving, larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002) From dogzbody1 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 26 11:45:49 2008 From: dogzbody1 at yahoo.com (Steve Smith) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 10:45:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] TR6 suspension rebuild, where to stop the powder coating? Message-ID: <104888.73292.qm@web51309.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi all I've purchased all the bits and pieces I need to rebuild the front and rear suspension of my TR6 and have a question on powder coating. I have secured a set of poly bushings for the front and back of my TR6 as seems to be popular even though I understand there is the possibility of the occassional squek from down under. I was going to powder coat the front suspension pieces but am wondering if I need to tape over where the bushings go through. Should these be poly on metal or poly on powder coat on metal? Bare metal doesn't feel like the right answer but if it is I'd rather know before the powder goes on! Thanks for any light that you can shed on this mystery. While here, what is the best treatment for the rear trailing arsms? I was going to sandblast to de-stress and either clearcoat or paint. Can anyone recco a brand/type of paint that has worked for them? Thanks again! Steve From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Nov 26 12:22:41 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 14:22:41 EST Subject: [TR] TR6 suspension rebuild, where to stop the powder coating? Message-ID: In a message dated 11/26/2008 12:46:00 PM Central Standard Time, dogzbody1 at yahoo.com writes: > I was going to powder coat the front suspension pieces but am wondering if > I need to tape over where the bushings go through. Should these be poly on > metal or poly on powder coat on metal? Bare metal doesn't feel like the right > answer but if it is I'd rather know before the powder goes on! Thanks for > any light that you can shed on this mystery. I just powder coated my TR3 control arms and fitted poly bushes with no issues. The thickness is not of any significance as the poly bushings are a slight interference fit anyway. The trunnion ends with bronze bushings (typical of TR3's) are another matter. > > While here, what is the best treatment for the rear trailing arms? I was > going to sandblast to de-stress and either clearcoat or paint. Can anyone > recco a brand/type of paint that has worked for them? When I did my TR6 I painted my trailing arms with Hammerite Silver. The effect is similar to natural aluminum but with a slick surface that is easier to keep clean. I think someone bought Hammerite (Rustoleum?) as I have not seen it in my local Ace for quite a few years. Dave From DLylis at aol.com Wed Nov 26 12:59:30 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 14:59:30 EST Subject: [TR] Installation of TR3A top Message-ID: I have a new Robbins top for my TR3A. Through the restoration process the bows have been refinished and the old webbng has been removed, and all parts saved. OK, so here we go. I am reasoning through the install of the new top and have come up with the following process: 1. Locate and install the Tenax fasteners on the windscreen end. This makes sense to me because this is the end with the least fudge factor. 2. Raise the bows and lay the new webbing over the top with the new webbing permanently fastened to the cockpit rear 3. Snap the tenax fasteners to the windscreen and lay the top over the bows. One person must be inside supporting the bows and pushing up to insure tightness while another person pulls the top tight and marks the location of the two rear "corner" Lift the Dot pegs. 4. Remove the top and install the two rear "corner" Lift the Dot fasteners. These may need to be done one at a time. 5. Lay the top back over the bows repeating step 3 6. Push the top back up tight from the inside while the outside person marks the two "center" pegs and the inside person marks where the webbing attaches to the bows. Again, the pegs may need to be done one at a time. 7. Remove the top and install the webbing to the bows and install the two "center" Lift the Dot fasteners. 8. Repeat step 3 again and fasten all exisitng fasteners. 9. Mark the remaining pegs one at a time and remove the top between each marking and install fasteners until all fasteners are in place. Am I missing something in this process or is there a better sequence anyone can suggest? Robbins is very specific in paperwork sent with the top that I am NOT to call them and ask for installation instructions. I am not intimidated by this at all, just looking for conventional wisdom in this job. TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca Wed Nov 26 14:13:19 2008 From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 14:13:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Rim removal - Non TR question Message-ID: Mark, I've run into this problem before on some of my cars. My solution was to use my spark plug anti-seize crayon to put some anti-seize on the tapered center hub and on all the studs. It's not messy and it can take the heat of a spark plug so it shouldn't run out on to your brakes. You can find the anti-seize crayons with all the spark plugs at Crappy Tire it's intended to keep spark plugs from seizing in aluminium heads. Are you still happy with your Calgary DTS. Doug Hamilton 1960 TR3A 1963 Fiat Cabriolet 1997 Eurovan Camper 2005 Chrysler Crossfire 2006 Suzuki GSX 1200S 2006 Acura CSX 2008 Chev Avalanche Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 22:07:36 -0500 From: "Mark Hooper" Subject: [TR] Rim removal - Non TR question To: triumphs at autox.team.net This week-end I performed the twice-annual ritual of the swapping of the snow tires on my daily driver, a 2006 Cadillac DTS. The car has standard steel disc brakes on all four points. The rims are chormed mags. I ran into an odd problem seemingly rust related (on a totally un-rusted car). I jacked up the first corner, undid all five wheel bolts on the first rim and was then still completely unable to remove the rim by hand. Kicking very hard did nothing at all, the rim seemed welded to the car. It took a 10-pound sledge, a baulk of firewood and about 10 good hard whacks around the edge of the rim to have it suddenly spring free, seemingly perfectly fine. The metal surface (the centre of the brake disc) the rim was bolted to was indeed lightly rusted, but not badly. I had to repeat the same performance for each rim on the car. I definitely want a solution in the spring when it comes time to re-install the summer rims. Any ideas out there? Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 2006 DTS From wbeech at flash.net Wed Nov 26 15:48:14 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 15:48:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] Seeking Triumph of my youth... Message-ID: <96AC5CE2D8B64946A6AA85EECA8349A1@sniffer> Has anyone ever tried to track down a car from WAY BACK? in 1969-70 I had a TR3A registered in Alexandria, Virginia, I cannot find anything else about it, no Comm or Plate numbers. Is there a source to research old DMV records anywhere? Happy Thanksgiving to all!! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From kvacek at ameritech.net Wed Nov 26 15:57:16 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 16:57:16 -0600 Subject: [TR] Seeking Triumph of my youth... References: <96AC5CE2D8B64946A6AA85EECA8349A1@sniffer> Message-ID: On a related subject, is there a database somewhere of known cars by Commission Number ?? I'd live to find TSF130L. Several years ago I contacted TRA about this, but at that time they had nothing. Happy Thanksgiving everyone !! > Has anyone ever tried to track down a car from WAY BACK? in 1969-70 I had > a > TR3A registered in Alexandria, Virginia, I cannot find anything else about > it, no Comm or Plate numbers. From wbmcleod at gmail.com Wed Nov 26 16:13:24 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 16:13:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Seeking Triumph of my youth... In-Reply-To: References: <96AC5CE2D8B64946A6AA85EECA8349A1@sniffer> Message-ID: If California and Arizona are representative, then no state database is out there unless the car has been registered since the system was computerized. All the previous records are boxed up and stored, or pitched. Bill Slightly Classics Tucson On Nov 26, 2008, at 3:57 PM, Karl Vacek wrote: > On a related subject, is there a database somewhere of known cars by > Commission Number ?? I'd live to find TSF130L. Several years ago I > contacted TRA about this, but at that time they had nothing. > > Happy Thanksgiving everyone !! > > > >> Has anyone ever tried to track down a car from WAY BACK? in >> 1969-70 I had a >> TR3A registered in Alexandria, Virginia, I cannot find anything >> else about >> it, no Comm or Plate numbers. From cwn74 at aol.com Wed Nov 26 18:30:25 2008 From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 20:30:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stag and TR4/5 lost in propane fire Message-ID: <86E96F9A5B104439AF600BF9ADC4376B@semperon3400> Anyone know a George Anderson Jr in Lanesborough MA (15 miles north of me)? Seem his propane heater filled the basement with propane which ignited when he flipped an electric switch on. Video shows the Stag outdoors and what looks like a TR4-5 being carried away on a tilt-bed. http://wnyt.com/article/stories/S680827.shtml?cat=300 Clark Clark W. Nicholls "Reality... It's not what you think." From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Nov 26 18:49:04 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 01:49:04 -0000 Subject: [TR] Stag and TR4/5 lost in propane fire References: <86E96F9A5B104439AF600BF9ADC4376B@semperon3400> Message-ID: > Seem his propane heater filled the basement with propane which ignited when > he flipped an electric switch on. Sad, sad, sad - but hopefully the family were OK - apart from shock? What does concern me about this is that it *seems* its OK to have a propane or butane bulk tank inside a property? Fine if its only a portable tank fitted into a cooker compartment but the article implies it was a bulk tank that exploded. So was it in the basement or outside? Jonmac From cwn74 at aol.com Wed Nov 26 21:24:43 2008 From: cwn74 at aol.com (Clark W. Nicholls) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 23:24:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stag and TR4/5 lost in propane fire In-Reply-To: References: <86E96F9A5B104439AF600BF9ADC4376B@semperon3400> Message-ID: <348E7ADDAAA04BD485388C36864F44BF@semperon3400> Propane tanks must be installed outdoors, not in the home. The leak must have been in the basement, probably a defect in the furnace. Propane is heavier than air and will settle, filling the basement. Natural gas is lighter and will disperse if not captive and not ignited first. Another article... http://www.berkshireeagle.com/ci_11078000 Clark Clark W. Nicholls '72 Stag '74 Spitfire "Reality... It's not what you think." From nwolf at u.washington.edu Wed Nov 26 22:48:58 2008 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 21:48:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [TR] Trotus 74 Message-ID: Here's something you don't see every day. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120338625850 I'm not sure which is sadder: That someone made a TR4 into a Lotus 7 replica, or that it got smashed. Weirdness. Anyway, Happy Tofurkey Day everybody! -Nick '62-ish TR4 Seattle, WA From Chip19474 at aol.com Thu Nov 27 08:10:57 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 10:10:57 EST Subject: [TR] Seeking Triumph of my youth... Message-ID: Bill, My first new car was a 1969 TR6 which I tried to track down a few years ago. Like your case, I only had some photos and memorabilia but couldn't find my original bill of sale, commission number, etc. The dealer where I bought the car changed hands and became a Volvo dealership. I contacted them; they were understanding about my inquiry but said that all records from the Triumph dealership were destroyed. I traded the car many years later for a previously owned GTO at a used car dealership - he folded about 6 years after and a McDonalds sits on the property! I gave up the search.....oh, my GTO ownership was rather short lived! That was the only taste of Detroit muscle I ever had - I traded it for a new MGB which I kept a long time finally selling it privately when my pregnant wife insisted that it wouldn't workout with the new baby. I wish I had enough cash (or a stimulus check!) back then to buy a used family car and hold onto the MG but with a new house and bills to pay, it just wasn't in the cards..... Good luck - now the car I'd really like to find was my old '58 TR3A which I used throughout college but since it was missing a few frame-to-body mounts (rust) and didn't have one rust free panel by the time I sold it in 1968, I doubt if it lasted more than a few years.....sad! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 11/26/2008 5:48:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: I cannot find anything else about it, no Comm or Plate numbers. **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002) From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Nov 27 09:14:15 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 11:14:15 -0500 Subject: [TR] Seeking Triumph of my youth... References: Message-ID: On a car's title is a title number and previous title number, each time a new title is issued new title numbers are also issued along with state of ownership and this is the easiest way to track down the history of your car, biggest problem you will encounter is a DMV employee not willing to go back through the old dirty boxes. When DMV changed over to computers they recorded a From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 26 09:53:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 08:53:11 -0800 Subject: [TR] Seeking Triumph of my youth... In-Reply-To: References: <96AC5CE2D8B64946A6AA85EECA8349A1@sniffer> Message-ID: <67E8762EB0E94B43BB9E3CC400367B3F@Meislaptop> > If California and Arizona are representative, then no state database > is out there unless the car has been registered since the system was > computerized. All the previous records are boxed up and stored, or > pitched. As I understand it, CA is even worse than that. Even records that were in the computer are deliberately deleted after 5 years (or something like that) of no activity; to try to hold down on the size of their database. Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Nov 27 10:09:59 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 10:09:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Installation of TR3A top In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7bb181af0811270909q17d138c3j4c9e156fb0e097ff@mail.gmail.com> On 11/26/08, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > 2. Raise the bows and lay the new webbing over the top with the new > webbing permanently fastened to the cockpit rear How will you know exactly how long you want the webbing to be at this point? > 3. Snap the tenax fasteners to the windscreen and lay the top over the > bows. One person must be inside supporting the bows and pushing up to > insure > tightness while another person pulls the top tight and marks the location > of the > two rear "corner" Lift the Dot pegs. > 4. Remove the top and install the two rear "corner" Lift the Dot > fasteners. > These may need to be done one at a time. I think you will have fewer problems if you start with the fasteners nearest the center line and work out to the corners. FWIW (possibly not much) I have attached to your copy of this message the instructions/measurements that came with my Amco top -- use these as a suggestion, not an absolute. > Robbins is very specific in paperwork sent with the top that I am NOT to > call them and ask for installation instructions. Can't really blame them -- hard to imagine talking someone thru this over the phone (sort of like the movie where they talk a flight attendant thru a 747 landing). Geo [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of top-webbing.GIF] From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 26 10:28:15 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 09:28:15 -0800 Subject: [TR] Installation of TR3A top In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <76DA081DB10F430B8BA5C015AA4B6A4C@Meislaptop> I'm on the road at the moment and don't have access to my usual material. But I would definitely suggest fitting the bows to the top, rather than the top to the bows. There is a lot more flexibility in how the bows are fitted, than where the top attaches to the car, so to me it makes sense to do the fixed portion first and then adjust to fit. And as others have mentioned, I leave the rearmost top bow loose from the webbing, to make installation easier in cold weather (when the top is tight and stiff). Randall From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Nov 27 10:32:18 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 10:32:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stag and TR4/5 lost in propane fire In-Reply-To: <348E7ADDAAA04BD485388C36864F44BF@semperon3400> References: <86E96F9A5B104439AF600BF9ADC4376B@semperon3400> <348E7ADDAAA04BD485388C36864F44BF@semperon3400> Message-ID: <7bb181af0811270932r12b5bec9t8947685768a149ed@mail.gmail.com> If they indeed escaped injury they were fortunate. Anyone who lived in Indianapolis in the 60s recalls vividly what horrific damage a propane leak can do: http://www.purdue.edu/wbaa/ipbs/Scripts/102.htm My VW camper has a propane tank and the vehicle is small enough to fit in the garage, but I do so rarely and with care & some low ventilation. From ahwahnee18 at gmail.com Thu Nov 27 10:41:43 2008 From: ahwahnee18 at gmail.com (Geo Hahn) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 10:41:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Seeking Triumph of my youth... In-Reply-To: References: <96AC5CE2D8B64946A6AA85EECA8349A1@sniffer> Message-ID: <7bb181af0811270941s5d082516vca2932c10d131a63@mail.gmail.com> On 11/26/08, Karl Vacek wrote: > On a related subject, is there a database somewhere of known cars by > Commission Number ?? I'd live to find TSF130L. Try: http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/TR3/index.htm I was able to trace my TR3A back the the mid-60s by talking to a prior owner who recalled who he got it from, the next was able to also recall, etc until I finally got to someone who had bought it from a long-gone used car dealer. BTW, it once changed hands for under $100. Geo From L1J1S at aol.com Thu Nov 27 12:41:58 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 14:41:58 EST Subject: [TR] tr3 comm. number Message-ID: list. with regards to the tr3's comm. numbers. my number is TS77317LOZ. (year> 1960) does anyone know what the last letter Z stand for? if i am not mistaken, it means that the car is a left over from the prior year or a carry over from the current year. larry schwartz **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002) From FGFO1 at aol.com Thu Nov 27 13:13:24 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 15:13:24 EST Subject: [TR] Triumphs on TV Message-ID: Caught up by chance with this new cable TV station. New to me anyway. called HDT high definition theater. Its a discovery channel affiliate. any way, lots of car shows that kick speedtv's b** The mille miglia has about 4 TR2/3 entrants that just keep showing up. chasing classic cars is entertaining star racer worlds greatest cars features the TR3 check it out if you can for me its on the high 400 channels near HBO. your will differ IM sure good luck Frank Fisher **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Nov 27 14:28:24 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 16:28:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs on TV In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Frank, I think that's the channel that has the program called "Chasing Classic Cars". The show focuses on Wayne Carini who owns F40 Motorsports about 15 miles from my house. He finds cars, restores them and often sells them at the major auctions held around the country. In addition he represents buyers and sellers at these auctions. One of his best clients is a guy named Herb Chambers who owns about 40 dealerships in CT & MA, is a billionaire and has an extensive car collection. For me, this is one of those......I knew that guy when.........moments. Herb was a customer of mine back in the 70's when he had just started a business called A-Copy and had one Ferrari as a daily driver. Small world. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FGFO1 at aol.com Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 3:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs on TV Caught up by chance with this new cable TV station. New to me anyway. called HDT high definition theater. Its a discovery channel affiliate. any way, lots of car shows that kick speedtv's b** The mille miglia has about 4 TR2/3 entrants that just keep showing up. chasing classic cars is entertaining star racer worlds greatest cars features the TR3 check it out if you can for me its on the high 400 channels near HBO. your will differ IM sure good luck Frank Fisher **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000 002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From steven at newellboys.net Thu Nov 27 15:21:46 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 15:21:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] Seeking youth in my Triumph... In-Reply-To: <7bb181af0811270941s5d082516vca2932c10d131a63@mail.gmail.com> References: <96AC5CE2D8B64946A6AA85EECA8349A1@sniffer> <7bb181af0811270941s5d082516vca2932c10d131a63@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <492F1D7A.2090309@newellboys.net> I guess I'm lucky I can tell neighborhood kids that my car is older than me... and even luckier that the kids aren't so clever as to respond "boy, that must be a really old car!" But then those of you who were driving near-new Triumphs in high school or college were luckier than me, a proud Chevette driver. Still, this Thanksgiving I'm thankful for you who drove ahead and taught me one of the greatest lessons of life: never sell my Triumph. Steven "also applying the lesson to BMWs" Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 Triumph TR4 '87 BMW 535is, 528e, 325 '88 BMW 535is From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Nov 27 16:08:54 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 23:08:54 -0000 Subject: [TR] tr3 comm. number References: Message-ID: <60AB6681A8564B49A0B7E4F80EE504ED@Bevan> Larry Schwartz wrote: > list. with regards to the tr3's comm. numbers. my number is TS77317LOZ. > (year> 1960) does anyone know what the last letter Z stand for? if i am not > mistaken, it means that the car is a left over from the prior year or a carry > over from the current year. Larry, I think the best place to address your question is the Heritage Motor Centre at Gaydon in the UK from where Heritage Certificates are issued. I've just checked the website and there is a new service just released about obtaining 'basic' information. Click on http://shop.heritage-motor-centre.co.uk/shop/heritage-certificates/archive-research-services/archive-research-services-10401/index.html and you'll see for GBP3.75 (multiply by about 1.45 to get it into $'s) you can ask a related question to do with production searches. It's an email request of you and the site says you'll get an email reply. Don't know whether your query is covered by this research facility but its worth asking. When I worked there I did use an archive reference book on many occasions that dealt with special Triumph codes. Absolutely NFI on my part but with respect, your interpretation is unlikely to be the correct assumption. Any car left 'in stock' between one year and another would have been because there was a drawdown problem on the letter of credit to pay for it - and a strike or production shortage would have caused this. Contrary to populat opinion, at no time in the post-war years did the company ever build cars 'for stock' except in very limited numbers. Even in the 1960's territorial specifications varied widely and too widely to risk working capital exposure by making cars on the basis they *might* sell somewhere, some day. Such a situation would in no way affect the commission number which would have been allocated, cast in bronze and unalterable some eight weeks before the car actually came into existence. I have a sneaky feeling that possibly the 'Z' may refer to the actual factory build location where this wasn't Coventry. Prior to commission numbers having numerical prefixes - e.g. 1FH meant a Belgian built Spitfire, I think the build location was an alpha suffix and I think, though I can't be sure your car was built in Ireland from a kit. Anyway, Gaydon should be able to tell you. My 2 pee's worth Jonmac From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Nov 27 16:52:07 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 18:52:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] chrome plater Message-ID: <200811271852.07758.yellowtr@adelphia.net> FYI, I located a chrome plating co in Syracuse NY. I never knew there was a plater so close to my home. Their website is: http://www.sandysbumpermart.com/ They are located in Syracuse NY and are the only plating co in NYS. I dropped off my 72 TR6 bumper yesterday and the "sale" price is 288. I thought that was a real good price. I hope it comes out good because I have other "stuff" to get chromed. They do most of the work for shops in NE and Long Island. I believe the turn around right now is 2 - 4 weeks. I will report when I get the part back. They do all metals, including the pot metal common to the TR4 and TR6 rear tail light assemblies. When I return for my bumper, I am taking the TR6 rear license plate light assembly to see what they can do to remove the pitting. If that comes out good and is a reasonable price, they get the tail light assemblies! Bob From nogera at worldnet.att.net Thu Nov 27 17:06:52 2008 From: nogera at worldnet.att.net (nogera at worldnet.att.net) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 18:06:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Head Crack Message-ID: <374A9C73FE06402CB3E3693F32F515CF@Carroom> I've just disassembled a TR3 engine and the head has a crack that runs between the two pear shaped coolant passage holes located between the # 2 and # 3 cylinders. Looking at the head and the block I really can't see how this crack could effect anything since it looks like the passages join on both the head and block. I remember seeing a head once before in which a similar crack had been brazed. Question: is there any reason to take any sort of corrective action regarding this crack? Bob Nogueira From mlang99 at comcast.net Thu Nov 27 19:13:12 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 18:13:12 -0800 Subject: [TR] Seeking youth in my Triumph... In-Reply-To: <492F1D7A.2090309@newellboys.net> References: <96AC5CE2D8B64946A6AA85EECA8349A1@sniffer> <7bb181af0811270941s5d082516vca2932c10d131a63@mail.gmail.com> <492F1D7A.2090309@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <492F53B8.3030200@comcast.net> You weren't the last high school student to drive a Chevette. My 17 year old niece is currently driving an early 80's one that she acquired from her grandmother. Believe it or not, it's only got a few thousand miles on it and my niece is quite proud of it! Mike Steven Newell wrote: > I guess I'm lucky I can tell neighborhood kids that my car is older > than me... and even luckier that the kids aren't so clever as to > respond "boy, that must be a really old car!" > > But then those of you who were driving near-new Triumphs in high > school or college were luckier than me, a proud Chevette driver. > Still, this Thanksgiving I'm thankful for you who drove ahead and > taught me one of the greatest lessons of life: never sell my Triumph. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Nov 26 20:39:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 19:39:19 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3 Head Crack In-Reply-To: <374A9C73FE06402CB3E3693F32F515CF@Carroom> References: <374A9C73FE06402CB3E3693F32F515CF@Carroom> Message-ID: <399126739D1F489E80BE5BBFABFA0041@Meislaptop> > Question: is there any reason to take any sort of corrective action > regarding this crack? No. Randall From FordneyNJ at aol.com Thu Nov 27 21:52:36 2008 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 23:52:36 EST Subject: [TR] Seeking Triumph of my youth... Message-ID: You might try the International Triumph TR Registry at _http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/_ (http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/) . The car you are looking for is not listed. It is a database that some might find helpful. Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ President, Positive Earth Drivers Club TR4A IRS CTC 06536 L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA400612 **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002) From carlsereda at aol.com Fri Nov 28 01:12:00 2008 From: carlsereda at aol.com (carlsereda at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 03:12:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 577 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB1F481F6EE9F1-FA4-211A@WEBMAIL-MY28.sysops.aol.com> I have diagram of tr3 hoodsticks with exact measurements for webbing. Looks likeofficial document. Home Sat if anyone wants copy. Carlsereda at aol.com From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Nov 28 06:02:02 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 13:02:02 -0000 Subject: [TR] Long overdue updates to TTACD2009 website Message-ID: <87B758C234AA4301B3D1B5B03FA357D0@Bevan> Hi, Everyone For those of you not on the various Triumph email lists, you'll have probably missed out on the updates kindly submitted on my behalf by Tim Buja of Illinois Sports Owners Association. This is where some forty members of the club (under the eagle eye of Stagmeister Joe Pawlak) are working flat out to prepare the Stag - henceforward known as 'uncle jack' in memory of the late Jack Drews. Jack was very well-known throughout the Triumph racing world in North America for many years, but tragically died at the wheel of his car in August 2008. Please pay the website a visit to check on the progress of the car and also to see the generous donation of FIVE new tyres from Cooper and the addition today, of details relating to regalia sales that are now 'live' and available for you to order. Cheers, everyone John Macartney Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From terryrs at comcast.net Fri Nov 28 06:31:09 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 13:31:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] TR3 Head Crack In-Reply-To: <399126739D1F489E80BE5BBFABFA0041@Meislaptop> Message-ID: <69213828.13091227879069565.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> >> Question: is there any reason to take any sort of corrective action >> regarding this crack? >No. >Randall As Randall states, nothing needs to be done.B When I rebuilt my 3, the head had the same crack.B Turns out to be very common.B Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 28 10:09:49 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 12:09:49 EST Subject: [TR] OIl pressure Message-ID: Well I hope I am not appearing to the list as the relative that just won't go home after Thanksgiving dinner, but I have another question. I left with a couple of friends this morning to go for a drive in our TRs. After about 20 -30 minutes we had to pull over (older crowd) and I noticed that my oil pressure dropped to 20 psi at 700 rpm idle. That seems odd as it is usually at 60 psi (newly rebuilt), but upon acceleration the needle jumped up into the normal zone of 70 - 80 psi at 2500 - 3000 rpm with no wavering; just steady as always. Throw in the clutch and back to idle and back to 20 psi. That is a very wide swing. I left the group and went home to check this out. I opened the sending pipe at the bulkhead and put in an after market gauge and got the same result. I hooked up my electronic tach so I could get some readings for this post and at 600 -700/20 psi. 1000/45 psi. 2000 70 -80 psi. Hmmm. . . I shut off the car to scratch my head for a moment, and when I restarted it, 20 psi. I goosed the throttle and the needle jumped up as expected. Back to idle but this time 60 psi. I shut off the car, restarted, 60 psi at idle. Any ideas? There are no untoward noises and the car runs and idles very well. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Nov 28 10:48:04 2008 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 11:48:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] OIl pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20081128174815.C8AD718788D@autox.team.net> First off, 20 psi at 700 rpm idle is an acceptable oil pressure if it jumps back up once the revs climb. Oddly behaving oil pressure can be caused by a little piece of gunk caught in the pressure bypass. That's the big screw with the locknut that protrudes from the oil filter housing. Sounds like your piece of gunk got dislodged, and the "problem" fixed itself. - Tony Drews At 11:09 AM 11/28/2008, DLylis at aol.com wrote: >Well I hope I am not appearing to the list as the relative that just won't >go home after Thanksgiving dinner, but I have another question. > >I left with a couple of friends this morning to go for a drive in our TRs. >After about 20 -30 minutes we had to pull over (older crowd) and I noticed >that my oil pressure dropped to 20 psi at 700 rpm idle. That >seems odd as it >is usually at 60 psi (newly rebuilt), but upon acceleration the >needle jumped >up into the normal zone of 70 - 80 psi at 2500 - 3000 rpm with no wavering; >just steady as always. Throw in the clutch and back to idle and back to 20 >psi. That is a very wide swing. >I left the group and went home to check this out. I opened the sending pipe >at the bulkhead and put in an after market gauge and got the same result. I >hooked up my electronic tach so I could get some readings for this post and >at 600 -700/20 psi. 1000/45 psi. 2000 70 -80 psi. Hmmm. . . I >shut off the >car to scratch my head for a moment, and when I restarted it, 20 psi. I >goosed the throttle and the needle jumped up as expected. Back to >idle but this >time 60 psi. I shut off the car, restarted, 60 psi at idle. >Any ideas? There are no untoward noises and the car runs and idles very >well. > > > >David Lylis >69 TR6 CC26160L >60 TR3A TS74461LO From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Nov 28 10:46:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 09:46:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] OIl pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <77CA1AB5DFDE43309B86A08A36715E7A@Meislaptop> > and when I restarted it, 20 psi. I > goosed the throttle and the needle jumped up as expected. Back to idle > but this > time 60 psi. My guess would be that the pressure relief valve in the oil filter head got stuck open somehow. A cleaning and inspection wouldn't be out of place, but being lazy I'd probably leave it until the next time it happens. And if you're using Castrol motor oil, you might want to switch try another brand. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Nov 28 17:46:58 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 19:46:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] scared of tightening this TR3 brake line Message-ID: <003c01c951bb$fea91d80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I hate to admit it, but I'm back working on my brakes. I remain impressed with the SS brake lines that I ordered for my TR3 from Classic Tube (I think they were originally patterned from "FT's" Tr3). I have almost all the brake line installed. As of yet, no brake fittings have received their final tightening, however, all fittings seem to match up. However, the brake line piece extending from the brake Master Cylinder down to the 5-way does seem a little short. Of course, this makes sense perfect since I have been told that I can do without the little top extension of the 5-way. After removing this BRV, I think I lost it. On top of that, this brake line is an inch or two short without this 'Brake Restrictor Valve'. As I understand it, there is a different thread used at the top and at the bottom of the BRV. Nevertheless, I was able to screw the Classic Tube (C.T.) provided brake fitting directly into my brass stock 5-way (without the BRV) with no trouble. I also don't remember noticing any thread deviation on any of the C.T. provided fittings. However, I am still crossing my fingers that the thread is right at this junction. So, what I am saying is Classic Tube's brake line seems to have returned to using the thread on the 5-way's brass portion (no BRV) without subsequently lengthening the brake line an inch or two. If I rebend some of the Classic Tube's SS Pre-Bent curves, I can still make it work. It just seems a little weird. What I am getting at is that I need a little bit of assurance that 'yes, it should be ok to tighten the new SS Classic Tube's fitting in the original 5-way fitting. Also, rebending the 'Pre-bent' line is, at this point is ok. Also, that Classic Tube sent the new brake line knowing the BRV would be removed. Scared, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 28 19:21:25 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 21:21:25 EST Subject: [TR] scared of tightening this TR3 brake line Message-ID: Bending the line is no issue, as long as you don't kink it. Tighten it, but watch how much muscle you put into it. It doesn't need much. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From DLylis at aol.com Fri Nov 28 19:27:29 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 21:27:29 EST Subject: [TR] Installation of TR3A top Message-ID: In a message dated 11/27/2008 12:29:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: And as others have mentioned, I leave the rearmost top bow loose from the webbing, to make installation easier in cold weather (when the top is tight and stiff). As I complete the layout I can see that this is valuable advice. The top can go on with a minimum of grunting and pulling. Thanks David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Nov 29 07:23:36 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 09:23:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] OIl pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey,....... just what do you mean by OLDER? Marty (getting closer to the older crowd than I care to admit) I left with a couple of friends this morning to go for a drive in our TRs. After about 20 -30 minutes we had to pull over (older crowd) _________________________________________________________________ Color coding for safety: Windows Live Hotmail alerts you to suspicious email. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_safety_1 12008 From wbmcleod at gmail.com Sat Nov 29 08:31:23 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 08:31:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Weber Carbs 40 and 45 DCOE Message-ID: <0D843251-8B85-4DD3-905F-1A895CAC7C1C@gmail.com> I have a Weber side draft carb body, bare, and 2 lids for 40 DCOE's plus assorted parts. How can I tell if the body is for a 40 or a 45, or is it the same? Any articles out there on Weber ID? I know about Pierce. I am trying to put together odd pieces to create a core carb to sell on ebay, as one more step in retiring. Anyone want a grab bag of Weber stuff, instead? Just for everyone's information, I have a good variety of Triumph and Spridget cranks, heads, cams, generators, alternators and starters and many other pieces for sale, located in Tucson, AZ. TIA Bill Slightly Classics '80 MGB w/ AC & OD '72 MGB '68 TR-250 (all for sale) From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat Nov 29 09:43:04 2008 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 08:43:04 -0800 Subject: [TR] Installation of TR3A top References: Message-ID: <22D749684FEA40FF98B78938DAD421C3@Dell> I also left the back bow unscrewed from the webbing - that is until on a very hot day on a long trip, the top would keep collapsing on our heads. Apparantly I'm the only one that's ever had this problem though, so it's worth a try. My solution was to use a sewing awl to fasten a strip of double sided velcro (stuck the sides back to back) to the webbing at the location that the back bar locks into place. Not period correct, but also not very visable. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 6:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Installation of TR3A top > In a message dated 11/27/2008 12:29:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > > And as others have mentioned, I leave the rearmost top bow loose from the > webbing, to make installation easier in cold weather (when the top is > tight > and stiff). > > > > As I complete the layout I can see that this is valuable advice. The top > can go on with a minimum of grunting and pulling. > Thanks > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Nov 29 09:53:18 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:53:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] OIl pressure References: Message-ID: > Hey,....... just what do you mean by OLDER? > > Marty (getting closer to the older crowd than I care to admit) > > > I left with a couple of friends this morning to go for a drive in our > TRs. > After about 20 -30 minutes we had to pull over (older crowd) > ============================================================================================================= We had to pull over after 30 minutes to let the other "KIDS" catch-up !!!!! :) :) "FT" From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Nov 29 09:54:05 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 11:54:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] Sway bar production run - Commercial announcement Message-ID: <493173AD.405@bright.net> Hello list. It is that time when we are doing another run of uprated sway bars (anti-roll bars for our UK language customers). These are true replacement bars. Not a "clamp on" additional bar but a direct bolt on unit. We designed the bars to work as a set.. A very measurable increase in cornering rate was found on a skid pad. These bars will not create a harsher ride. Only faster and flatter cornering ability. Steel prices soared this past summer but we have been able to hold pricing for this run. This is an expensive item to produce so we offer incentives to help with pre-sales. Orders are not billed until product is shipped. Right now we are looking at shipping in early January. Sway bars and descriptions are listed on our website - www.tsimportedautomotive.com. Click "Performance Parts" then select "TR7/8". Sway bar list price is $141.95 for front and $124.95 for rear. Bars are black powder coated for long lasting finish, good looking as well and they work Package prices will only be in effect until we have 15 pre-sale orders. Then pricing goes back to normal list prices. In the spirit of this election year, "order early, order often"! Here are "packages" for early order: 1. Bar set at website price and receive free shipping in the continental US or to a USA border town for pick up by our Canadian customers. 2. Bar set for $220 - savings of about $46. 3 List price for bar set and we include a set of urethane subframe mounts. 4. List price for bar set and you can purchase one of our new light flywheels for $200. 5. List price for bar set and we include our strut needle bearing kit. 6. List price for bar set and buy our stainless steel braid brake hose kit for $45. 7. List price for bar set and buy our 1 piece stainless steel braid clutch hose for $35. 8. List price for bar set and buy our stainless steel foot well vent sent for $65. Packages #2 through 8 do not include shipping. Be sure to ask about a complete suspension package price including our "Made in USA" road springs. These are the most accurate rate springs on the market. Unlike UK made springs, our springs are guaranteed within +/- 2% and will not set or sag. Please be sure to check with us for your Wedge needs - TR7 or TR8 - stock or performance. Be it engine, suspension or just "stuff", we can help. Thanks for your time and interest. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From AA00727 at aol.com Sat Nov 29 13:36:10 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 15:36:10 EST Subject: [TR] Car Covers Message-ID: Anyone have good or bad experiences to relate about car covers? I need one for my TR-3 and have never used one before. I can get a cheap one at the local Farm & Fleet for $30 (usually 60) or I've seen them online for up to $600. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks! Gary B **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Nov 29 13:52:18 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 15:52:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Car Covers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0D58BBD769D94C9080E16340CE2BD15C@BOBSNEWPC> I got mine years ago from the Covercraft Outlet Store (http://www.carcoversplus.com/) It's hit or miss but you can save 50%. I only use my cover in the garage to protect the car when it's not being used much in the winter. I'd never use it outside as I've heard too many horror stories about the damage that can happen when the wind is blowing and dirt or sand gets trapped between the cover and your paint job. It works as good as sandpaper! However........I'm sure others have had nothing but great experiences using the cover outside. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of AA00727 at aol.com Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 3:36 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Car Covers Anyone have good or bad experiences to relate about car covers? I need one for my TR-3 and have never used one before. I can get a cheap one at the local Farm & Fleet for $30 (usually 60) or I've seen them online for up to $600. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks! Gary B **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000 002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat Nov 29 14:16:14 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 15:16:14 -0600 (CST) Subject: [TR] Car Covers Message-ID: <1344439652.808911227993374217.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> I just purchased a Covercraft from TRF TRFCC111 b Covercraft Technalon car cover tan. I got my discount and waited for a sale. $149. I tried to get one from Covercraft outlet store for a year, all they had were things for you pet to ride in the car. Just my two cents......Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Sat, Nov 29, 2008 at 3:52 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > I got mine years ago from the Covercraft Outlet Store > (http://www.carcoversplus.com/) It's hit or miss but you can save 50%. > I > only use my cover in the garage to protect the car when it's not being > used > much in the winter. I'd never use it outside as I've heard too many > horror > stories about the damage that can happen when the wind is blowing and > dirt > or sand gets trapped between the cover and your paint job. It works as > good > as sandpaper! However........I'm sure others have had nothing but > great > experiences using the cover outside. > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of AA00727 at aol.com > Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 3:36 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Car Covers > > Anyone have good or bad experiences to relate about car covers? I > need one > for my TR-3 and have never used one before. I can get a cheap one at > the > local Farm & Fleet for $30 (usually 60) or I've seen them online for > up to > $600. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks! > Gary B > **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the > NEW > AOL.com. > (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000 > 002) > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jmitch at snet.net Sat Nov 29 14:18:17 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 16:18:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Pulstar Pulse plugs Message-ID: <4931B199.1010902@snet.net> In a post some time back, someone mentioned trying Pulstar Pulse plugs. They have a pulse circuit that build energy like a camera flash. I was skeptical at $25 each, but I'm gullible too:) I put them in the TR6 last night after pulling a perfectly good set of NGK's out that had perfect color. I was amazed to find when I turned the key after the car had been sitting almost a month, that the engine seemed to jump to life. It idled nicer and I was able to take off the choke before I was out of the driveway. Normally it needs choke for a mile or so when it's this cold(30 F). I cant say if there's more horsepower or better fuel economy, but It definitely ran nicer than before. Before the idle tended to be a bit lumpy due to the cam and roller rockers and very light flywheel. It actually felt much smoother. They might not be worth $25 a plug, but if you need a Christmas present for the car.......could be worth a try. John Mitchell 76 TR6 www.pulstar.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 29 15:22:37 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 14:22:37 -0800 Subject: [TR] Car Covers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081129222237.JYYL7376.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I can get a cheap one at the local Farm & Fleet for > $30 (usually 60) The cheap ones only last a few years, even indoors. Outdoors in the sun, they turn to dust in 2 years or less. Randall From areich at telus.net Sat Nov 29 15:55:18 2008 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 14:55:18 -0800 Subject: [TR] Stripes on a TR3A Message-ID: <4931C856.3040801@telus.net> Greetings: Just wanting to spice up my red TR3A and was thinking about a stripe (or stripes). I was thinking a white stripe but maybe best with black as the car has a black top and tonneau. Does anybody have or know where any pictures of striped TR3's may be? Allan Reich 1960 TR3A TS65713L (+O) From Loumetelko at aol.com Sat Nov 29 16:09:25 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 18:09:25 EST Subject: [TR] Car Covers Message-ID: I also went the Covercraft outlet store route. Called every noon for almost three weeks till they had one of the "seconds" in stock. Although used very rarely during the season it is used every winter during the garage nap time. Tightly rolled and tied with a bungie cord it rides behind the passenger seat in the 2 or the 4A. Never did find how or why mine was deemed a "second" but after seven or eight years it is still going strong. I don't remember their part number for a side screen car but it was different for the TR4 through the TR6. I just looked up the invoice from Covercraft and the number is 818-407-6600. During your first call I would suggest getting their correct part number for your car then just ask by number in subsequent calls. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp& icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 29 17:42:56 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 19:42:56 EST Subject: [TR] Car Covers Message-ID: Covercraft has a few grades if I remember correctly and I have purchased the Noah for both cars. They are "water resistant" and breathe, which is why I chose them. I am satisfied with both of them and they were under $150 each. I have "value engineered" this purchase before and do not recommend buying on price. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Nov 29 18:50:45 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 17:50:45 -0800 Subject: [TR] Car Covers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Indoor or Outdoor? If Indoor IMHO there are none better than the NOAH cover offered by several sources. >Anyone have good or bad experiences to relate about car covers? I need one >for my TR-3 and have never used one before. I can get a cheap one at >the local >Farm & Fleet for $30 (usually 60) or I've seen them online for up to $600. >Any advice would be helpful. Thanks! > > Gary B -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Nov 29 20:05:56 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 21:05:56 -0600 Subject: [TR] Car Covers References: Message-ID: <000d01c95298$91e4b000$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> i highly recommend the ones with the elastic bottom, so it stays put, and there is no need to pay extra for rear view mirror pockets. i have also found that the miata cover is the perfect size for a tr6 and an mgb and a 93 mercury capri. i ordered a "TR6 Cover" some years ago and it was actually too tight. once you get one, label with marker front rear - it makes it easier to be sure you have it on the right way. From bielings at comcast.net Sat Nov 29 21:09:37 2008 From: bielings at comcast.net (k) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 23:09:37 -0500 Subject: [TR] Choke cable Message-ID: <72A9BD0FA6CE426B905D8B6790CCA417@PORTABLE> Now that its fall I find I need to use the choke on the TR3. My question concerns the choke cable. After you pull the cable out is it supposed to slowly return to the off position or stay where you put it. Pete Bieling From DLylis at aol.com Sat Nov 29 21:14:26 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 23:14:26 EST Subject: [TR] Car Covers Message-ID: I have used my Noah covers outdoors and they work very well against moisture intrusion and rain. Short term use ONLY. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From ggelhar at earthlink.net Fri Nov 28 21:37:35 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 22:37:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Drawing Message-ID: <380-220081162943735250@earthlink.net> I'm looking for anyone that has the TR3A workshop manual on CD and can send me the page showing the side view of the TR3A from the "General Specification Data" section. It is the drawing showing the dimensional data for the car. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Nov 29 21:49:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 20:49:52 -0800 Subject: [TR] TR3A Drawing In-Reply-To: <380-220081162943735250@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20081130044953.SGIJ25405.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > I'm looking for anyone that has the TR3A workshop manual on > CD and can send me the page showing the side view of the TR3A > from the "General Specification Data" section. It is the > drawing showing the dimensional data for the car. This one ? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of Pages from BENTLEYTR23 reduced.pdf] From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Nov 29 05:54:51 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 06:54:51 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3A Drawing Message-ID: <380-2200811629125451218@earthlink.net> ToRandall and Bill B., Thank you both for your efforts to send the drawing from the TR3 manual. Now I know why I have had a hard time finding the version I am looking for. The one printed in the manual is of the earlier TR2 and Randall has pointed out the differences. Does anyone have a source for a later line drawing of the side view of a TR3A? Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN > Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Drawing > > > > I'm looking for anyone that has the TR3A workshop manual on > > CD and can send me the page showing the side view of the TR3A > > from the "General Specification Data" section. It is the > > drawing showing the dimensional data for the car. > > This one ? From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Nov 30 06:53:54 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 08:53:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] looking for pictures Message-ID: I am looking for some pictures of a (any) silver TR4 - TR6. If anybody has some jpegs of such an animal they could email me I would appreciate it. Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail now works up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_faster_1 12008 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Nov 30 07:08:11 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 09:08:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Choke cable In-Reply-To: <72A9BD0FA6CE426B905D8B6790CCA417@PORTABLE> References: <72A9BD0FA6CE426B905D8B6790CCA417@PORTABLE> Message-ID: If a TR3 choke is like a TR6, you pull it out and turn the knob to the right to lock it in place. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of k Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 11:10 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Choke cable Now that its fall I find I need to use the choke on the TR3. My question concerns the choke cable. After you pull the cable out is it supposed to slowly return to the off position or stay where you put it. Pete Bieling This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Nov 30 07:11:31 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 09:11:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] looking for pictures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Marty, There's this one (http://tinyurl.com/6o3ody) that was for sale on eBay Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 8:54 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] looking for pictures I am looking for some pictures of a (any) silver TR4 - TR6. If anybody has some jpegs of such an animal they could email me I would appreciate it. Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail now works up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_faster_ 1 12008 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Nov 30 10:35:42 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 09:35:42 -0800 Subject: [TR] Choke cable References: Message-ID: <005a01c95312$11c17e60$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> The choke cable on my '70 has detents as you pull it out it clicks and it stays until pushed in. The knob does not turn. Regards, Bob E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11230 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Nov 30 08:43:41 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 15:43:41 -0000 Subject: [TR] Choke cable References: <72A9BD0FA6CE426B905D8B6790CCA417@PORTABLE> Message-ID: <7C3189A38C6C484CA4F9232050CC25C5@Bevan> Pete Bieling wrote: > My question concerns the choke cable. After you pull the cable out > is it supposed to slowly return to the off position or stay where you > put it. Pete, The answer to your question is like so many others associated with Triumphs - and this is, "it depends." My own view is that as far back as the TR3 the choke cable was of the RGHI (requires gentle human intervention) type. However, history has proved conclusively that RGHI chokes soon reverted to SBASAYPIO condition (shoot back as soon as you pull it out) - especially if the choke pull-off springs were too strong. Of course, in the decades that have passed since your car's build, it may have been modified by a PO to the more 'respected' specification of PATTL (pull and twist to lock) PATTL chokes were endemic to the British motor industry in the 60's and 70's and for the most part soon became FJOW (failure just outside warranty) by which time there was little to choose between RGHI and SBASAYPIO types. If you are a purist and strive for *originality* an RGHI pattern is the one to go for but I would recommend you upgrade it by adding a CPOAPOS conversion (clothes peg on a piece of string) to give it the genuine 'period' look. Sure, it'll upset the Concours Judges, but in my experience on the UK side of the pond, they're mostly some damned obsessive that they judge all cars without paying any heed at all to the original manufacturer's TIACAWCDI (this is as cheap as we can do it) build policy. So, the bottom line? I'd go for an RGHI choke and a CPOAPOS conversion - and leave it at that :) Jonmac PS The Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Stag will next year complete its marathon journey with a CPOAPOS choke set up. So much more in keeping with the car than furry dice swinging from the rear view mirror and nodding dogs in the back window. From jimbpps at cox.net Sun Nov 30 09:13:17 2008 From: jimbpps at cox.net (Jim Bauder) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 09:13:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Choke cable In-Reply-To: <7C3189A38C6C484CA4F9232050CC25C5@Bevan> References: <72A9BD0FA6CE426B905D8B6790CCA417@PORTABLE> <7C3189A38C6C484CA4F9232050CC25C5@Bevan> Message-ID: Jonmac, Your comments as always, are Priceless... Jim Jim Bauder 480-309-9525 '68 TR250 CD47L Scottsdale, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/647 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 8:44 AM To: k; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Choke cable Pete Bieling wrote: > My question concerns the choke cable. After you pull the cable out is > it supposed to slowly return to the off position or stay where you put > it. Pete, The answer to your question is like so many others associated with Triumphs - and this is, "it depends." My own view is that as far back as the TR3 the choke cable was of the RGHI (requires gentle human intervention) type. However, history has proved conclusively that RGHI chokes soon reverted to SBASAYPIO condition (shoot back as soon as you pull it out) - especially if the choke pull-off springs were too strong. Of course, in the decades that have passed since your car's build, it may have been modified by a PO to the more 'respected' specification of PATTL (pull and twist to lock) PATTL chokes were endemic to the British motor industry in the 60's and 70's and for the most part soon became FJOW (failure just outside warranty) by which time there was little to choose between RGHI and SBASAYPIO types. If you are a purist and strive for *originality* an RGHI pattern is the one to go for but I would recommend you upgrade it by adding a CPOAPOS conversion (clothes peg on a piece of string) to give it the genuine 'period' look. Sure, it'll upset the Concours Judges, but in my experience on the UK side of the pond, they're mostly some damned obsessive that they judge all cars without paying any heed at all to the original manufacturer's TIACAWCDI (this is as cheap as we can do it) build policy. So, the bottom line? I'd go for an RGHI choke and a CPOAPOS conversion - and leave it at that :) Jonmac PS The Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Stag will next year complete its marathon journey with a CPOAPOS choke set up. So much more in keeping with the car than furry dice swinging from the rear view mirror and nodding dogs in the back window. Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jimbpps at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Nov 30 10:41:29 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 12:41:29 -0500 Subject: [TR] Quik brake ? for TR3 Message-ID: <002a01c95312$e14b3950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I never quite finished working on my TR3's brakes. Could you tell me something? Does the new SS line (from Classic Tube) from the brake master cylinder, then behind the battery, and down to the top of the 5-Way have a fitting on it that requires a BRV to be used? I have heard that the top thread and the bottom thread of that little Brake Relief Valve are different. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 TS71359L -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. We are a community of 5.7 million users fighting spam. SPAMfighter has removed 947 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len The Professional version does not have this message From wbmcleod at gmail.com Sun Nov 30 10:44:48 2008 From: wbmcleod at gmail.com (William McLeod) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 10:44:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Quik brake ? for TR3 In-Reply-To: <002a01c95312$e14b3950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <002a01c95312$e14b3950$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: The only reason to use that valve was to satisfy the dual system requirements. The 3 uses a single line. Bill On Nov 30, 2008, at 10:41 AM, dorpaul wrote: > I never quite finished working on my TR3's brakes. Could you tell me > something? > > Does the new SS line (from Classic Tube) from the brake master > cylinder, then > behind the battery, and down to the top of the 5-Way have a fitting > on it that > requires a BRV to be used? I have heard that the top thread and the > bottom > thread of that little Brake Relief Valve are different. > > Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 TS71359L From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 30 12:23:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 11:23:35 -0800 Subject: [TR] Quik brake ? for TR3 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20081130192335.GSNI27302.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > The only reason to use that valve was to satisfy the dual > system requirements. I disagree. The valve Paul is talking about is actually a Residual Pressure Valve; what it does is hold some pressure in the brake lines so that the caliper pistons don't get pushed back when the front spindles flex. Without it, you may find a low brake pedal after a hard corner. Worth noting that the factory built some 7000 disc-braked cars without the RPV, and then added it. Obviously they felt it was important even with single-circuit brakes. That said, I disabled my RPV many years ago and never regretted it. And a better solution to the spindle flex problem is available today, in the form of uprated spindles and a bearing spacer; designed by the late uncle jack (as I recall) and available from TRF. But, I do not know the answer to Paul's question. It boils down to whether the 5-way union has the proper flare for a hard line to mate to the top opening, rather than the gasketed fitting of the RPV. The 5-way I checked appears to be machined for a flare fitting; but ISTR I've seen one that was not. Much simpler, IMO, to do what I did : Remove the plunger from inside the RPV and put back the housing. That way there is no need to strain the lines to reach, and no question about the fittings not being right. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 30 12:33:01 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 11:33:01 -0800 Subject: [TR] Choke cable In-Reply-To: <7C3189A38C6C484CA4F9232050CC25C5@Bevan> Message-ID: <20081130193302.MAPI4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > PATTL chokes were endemic to the British motor industry in > the 60's and 70's and for the most part soon became FJOW > (failure just outside warranty) by which time there was > little to choose between RGHI and SBASAYPIO types. The only thing I can add to Jonmac's excellent treatise on the subject is that the PATTL cable I got from Moss Motors some 20 years ago still functions quite well and has actually outlasted the car it was installed on. I plan to move it to the 'project' TR3 in the next few days. Also, the original RGHI type can sometimes be (temporarily) restored to proper operation, by fabricating a replacement for the little brass "half moon" key that rides on the shaft, and possibly cutting the notches on the shaft a bit deeper. Randall From jfulle8 at twcny.rr.com Sun Nov 30 12:58:32 2008 From: jfulle8 at twcny.rr.com (jim fuller) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 14:58:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] large drum tr3 rear axle Message-ID: I have a large drum, tr3 rear axle, probably from a 1959. One drum has a chink out of the flange rib, not a part that seems to no anything except look good. Has resided with me too long. Available for the taking. Can email some photos, just ask me. Located near Syracuse NY, upstate. Jim Fuller [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date: 11/29/2008 6:52 PM From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Nov 30 15:08:44 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 22:08:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [TR] Swinging Garage Door Motor In-Reply-To: <20081130192335.GSNI27302.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <1817971650.265051228082924367.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> First real snowstorm of the season hit tonight.B Handily just finished closing in the new garage, and pulled the TR3A inside to nestle for the winter. Amazing feeling. Now, I have to put on two garage doors.B For a potpourri of reasons, cannot use overhead doors, and no room for sliders either.B Anyone out there have swinging garage doors and know where I can find a remote actuating system?B Terry Smith, ''59 TR3A New Hampshire From wbeech at flash.net Sun Nov 30 15:26:25 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 15:26:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Swinging Garage Door Motor In-Reply-To: <1817971650.265051228082924367.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <20081130192335.GSNI27302.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <1817971650.265051228082924367.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <39818F5842754F29A81CC651E0370CEB@sniffer> Try a farm and ranch store, IFA(?), that would have the systems to remotely open and close field gates. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of terryrs at comcast.net Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 3:09 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Swinging Garage Door Motor First real snowstorm of the season hit tonight.B Handily just finished closing in the new garage, and pulled the TR3A inside to nestle for the winter. Amazing feeling. Now, I have to put on two garage doors.B For a potpourri of reasons, cannot use overhead doors, and no room for sliders either.B Anyone out there have swinging garage doors and know where I can find a remote actuating system?B Terry Smith, ''59 TR3A New Hampshire This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.9.11/1820 - Release Date: 11/30/2008 5:53 PM From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Nov 30 15:42:06 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 22:42:06 -0000 Subject: [TR] Choke cable References: <20081130193302.MAPI4332.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <9F557640AE1D4E5EA10B028F209A3176@Bevan> Randall wrote: > The only thing I can add to Jonmac's ***** treatise on the subject is > that the PATTL cable I got from Moss Motors some 20 years ago still > functions quite well and has actually outlasted the car it was installed on. Then there must be something fundamentally wrong with it! Probably made in Japan under optimum Kai-Sen conditions, or whatever they call it. Send it back to Moss and demand a refund! > I plan to move it to the 'project' TR3 in the next few days. Definitely not a good idea - you might give the car a 'complex.' > Also, the original RGHI type can sometimes be (temporarily) restored to > proper operation, by fabricating a replacement for the little brass "half > moon" key that rides on the shaft, and possibly cutting the notches on the > shaft a bit deeper. Why try to improve on lousy engineering? Notches? Good heavens, you people sound to me as though you actually expect your choke cable to work, longterm!!! That was never the Standard-Triumph plan. Use the clothes peg version! Be different, unconventional - and stand out from the crowd. Jonmac From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Nov 30 15:49:44 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 17:49:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] Choke cable In-Reply-To: <9F557640AE1D4E5EA10B028F209A3176@Bevan> Message-ID: <4932D238.6023.5D0247A@localhost> On 30 Nov 2008 at 22:42, John Macartney wrote: > Use the clothes peg version! Won't work. On this side of the Pond they are commonly referred to as "clothes pins". Pegs? Forsooth! -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun Nov 30 16:40:17 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 18:40:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fw: Emailing: chock-link Message-ID: <075D87E071DA4CE8B129665B17F9F0CC@fred8kwiskhcfu> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of chock-link.JPG] From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 30 16:49:49 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 18:49:49 EST Subject: [TR] Swinging Garage Door Motor Message-ID: Terry, Down here in Florida in the Land of Gated Communities, many have automatic openers for swinging gates. Some of the gates are not swingers, and that is the type of community I live in. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From DLylis at aol.com Sun Nov 30 16:59:05 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 18:59:05 EST Subject: [TR] Anti rattle spring and plunger Message-ID: Last Saturday my TR3A locked up in reverse. Fortunately, it was in the garage at the time. The repair was a 30 minute remove the shift lever and reposition the anti rattle plunger. It had rolled out of the hole in the shift dog and wedged itself kitty cornered. I turned it over so the worn/damaged edge was in and turned the shift lever around so the device points forward instead of back. I had thought of tossing it and not using it since it appears that the hole in the shift dog is buggered and this is likely to happen again. Comments? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Finally, one site has it all: your friends, your email, your favorite sites. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000006) From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com Sun Nov 30 18:48:19 2008 From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 20:48:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: [TR] Choke Cable Message-ID: <21921085.1228096100281.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I've had two choke cables fail in less than a year. The first was from Moss and the second from TRF. Anyone know where I can purchase one that might last several years? Which is better the solid cable or the stranded cable style? BPNW advertises one that is made in the UK - any satisfied customers out there? Doug Nelson 74TR6 ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Nov 30 19:12:21 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 21:12:21 -0500 Subject: [TR] looking for pictures In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <556BA427B63B41BFA74EF62206B48923@Scott> Marty: I believe I have some from TRF's summer party many years ago. I t was a gentleman from Maine that just finished the restoration and painted it silver with a black interior. I will hunt them down and send them to you. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 8:54 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] looking for pictures I am looking for some pictures of a (any) silver TR4 - TR6. If anybody has some jpegs of such an animal they could email me I would appreciate it. Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail now works up to 70% faster. http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_faster_ 1 12008 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as suhringtr36 at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Nov 30 19:36:31 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 21:36:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Steering Column Message-ID: <23B17A6519304F4C91D1B2CB264CBDDB@Scott> I am installing the steering column/wheel and have two questions for the list. This is a split column steering and the lower end is already installed. 1. At the end of the column of the inner shaft, below the splines for the steering wheel, there is supposed to be a felt bushing. I have the part, which looks like a trapezoid. Does this wrap around the fat section of the shaft or just below it? Does it fit inside the outer column? Is it glued in place? 2. Doe you insert the stator tube in the steering column and then the wire harness or do you install the wire harness in the stator tube, then insert the stator tube in the column? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Nov 30 20:22:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 19:22:13 -0800 Subject: [TR] 59 TR3A Steering Column In-Reply-To: <23B17A6519304F4C91D1B2CB264CBDDB@Scott> Message-ID: <20081201032214.QGGC27302.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > This is a split column steering and the lower end is already installed. Be sure to leave all the mounting bolts loose (including the pinch bolts that hold the box to the bracket) until it's all installed. You don't want any side force at all on it, so everything needs to line up. > 1. At the end of the column of the inner shaft, below the > splines for > the steering wheel, there is supposed to be a felt bushing. I > have the part, which looks like a trapezoid. Does this wrap > around the fat section of the shaft or just below it? Fat part. > Does it fit inside the outer column? Yes. > Is it glued in place? No. It's trapped between a crimp in the outer column, and the steering wheel. Only friction keeps it from turning. Powder the side against the inner column with graphite or moly powder. > 2. Doe you insert the stator tube in the steering column > and then the > wire harness or do you install the wire harness in the stator > tube, then insert the stator tube in the column? I've tried it both ways, and wouldn't say there's a large difference either way. But it seems marginally easier to pull the wires partway through the tube first (so the bullets just barely protrude) and then poke the tube through the column. If you install the tube first, it's more effort to move from end to end of it, as you alternately pull on the wires and coax them into the tube. Randall From AA00727 at aol.com Sun Nov 30 22:51:44 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 00:51:44 EST Subject: [TR] Choke cable movement Message-ID: The latest choke discussion brings up another problem with finishing the restoration of my TR 3. I cannot pull the knob out far enough to actually pull the "choke valve" down. We have to get under the hood and directly position the linkage beyond the fast idle position which as far as the knob and cable will move it. I have not taken time to investigate this yet as we have only started it a couple of times. Just thinking someone may have had this trouble and will be able to steer me toward a fix. Gary B **************Life should be easier. So should your homepage. Try the NEW AOL.com. (http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp&icid=aolcom40vanity&ncid=emlcntaolcom00000002)