From opposumking at verizon.net Thu May 1 04:20:38 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 06:20:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options References: Message-ID: <003201c8ab75$05c94920$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> I work a fair bit with the auto import companies and the port authority here. I also used to work at a foreign car dealership some years ago. I've got a fair bit of experience with dealer vs factory vs port installed items for several manufacturers, Toyota, Honda, BMW, Mercedes, and Kia to name a few. Air Conditioning is a good one to start with. It can be installed at all three points, factory, port or dealership. It can be listed as either a dealer option (unusual), or more typically as a factory option. At the port there are several companies that do nothing but install the A/C kits onto the cars. The kits come seperately. If the workload is heavy, sometimes the A/C kit is tossed into the car and the car is shipped off to the dealership with the kit in the trunk for the dealership to install. So your A/C can be factory installed, port installed (typical), or dealer installed. Rather rarely is that "factory" A/C installed on the factory production line of imported cars. Pinstriping is yet another. The taped pinstriping is usually installed at the dealerships. BMW though frequently has cars come off the ship with painted on pinstriping done, presumably, at the factory of origin. Though I suppose it could be done by the shipping port, though I doubt it. Cold weather packages. Normally a port installed item. I would expect Triumph was no different. The overdrive transmission would almost certainly be a factory installed item, right from the production line. Though I'm sure more than one dealership has taken an overdrive transmission from a wrecked car and installed it into a new car just to sell it. A hard top on the other hand is very easily handled seperately, and well able to be provided by a dealership as a seperate option, or dropped on random Triumphs at the port. Especially if the hardtops came from a seperate cargo container loaded with hardtops. As a seperate interesting detail, don't think just because you've got a new car it hasn't been wrecked. There's a very large repair facility at the port near me that does nothing but repair wrecks of new untitled vehicles. Once they are fixed, the cars go on to be sold as normal new cars. And I'm not talking mere dings and scrapes. From DLylis at aol.com Thu May 1 05:15:35 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 07:15:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Cloth car cover Message-ID: Brad, One thing to look for is a cover that is not "waterproof", but water resistant. The reason being that a waterproof cover does not breathe and will create more problems than it solves. I store my cars indoors but use a Covercraft "Noah" model when necessary. They do breathe and prevent condensation (better than most) from forming. Covercraft does not make the fabric, rather they just stitch it and the fabric is called "Block It". It will run you about $160. I would think, and do not have direct experience with it, that you may be better off workihng this out so that the cover does not rest on the car, rather air is allowed to circulate around it. What first comes to mind is a technique for building a spray booth out of PVC pipe and PVC fittings and covering with sheet plastic securing with duct tape. That way you can be waterproof, have air circulation, and see what is going on under there without removing the cover. I would think you can get this done for less than $160. Good luck David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu May 1 05:26:46 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 06:26:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Old Dealer Network Message-ID: <32052106.975591209641206286.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> Joe, Believe it or not, I have a booklet titled Triumph Sales and Service, it is a list of all distribution centers for Triumphs dated 1972. I will scan the FLA section and send it. Thanks, Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 From: Joe Burlein Date: 2008/04/30 Wed PM 11:25:22 CDT To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Old Dealer Network OK, another esoteric question. In my quest to recreate my window sticker I'd like to put in a Florida Dealership from the early 70s. (Who knows where my car originally came from...) Does anyone have any docs with the old dealer network on it?! (The import city was Jax I believe). Thanks again, Joe PS: the upgraded 72 window sticker should be done by tomorrow and this weekend I'll work on the 74... This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu May 1 06:03:08 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 08:03:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cloth car cover In-Reply-To: <48192D15.7000501@141.com> Message-ID: <4819793C.18090.1766446C@localhost> On 30 Apr 2008 at 19:38, Brad Kahler wrote: > So for those of you who store cars outside what kind/brand/type > of car covers are you using? For maybe 5 years I used one of the high-tech-fabric covers from California Car Cover, the thin stuff that feels like a cross between nylon and silk. Don't remember the exact name, but as I recall, the last time I checked their stuff they had more models so I couldn't identify it readily. It worked very nicely. They have different models for different cars, even different from Spitfire to GT6; this one was spec'ed for the GT6 but it covered the Spitfire too, just not shaped as well. Eventually the sun wore it out. I replaced it with a cover from TRF which was made by CarCraft, I believe. It is much thicker and doesn't fold up into as convenient package. It isn't as waterproof, though paradoxically it seems to hold water in the folds at the bottom, it has quickly gotten dirty on the inside, some sort of dust comes off the inside and leaves the car looking dirty. To put it bluntly, it stays off the car more than on. As soon as finances settle (yeah, right!) I intend to replace it with another from CCC. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From steven at newellboys.net Thu May 1 07:44:40 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 07:44:40 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 cut out under power In-Reply-To: <03c501c8ab44$507e9d20$45247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <022801c8ab0a$2a21f3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <481936F8.2010004@newellboys.net> <03c501c8ab44$507e9d20$45247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <4819C948.6010405@newellboys.net> fred thomas wrote: > Remember that very well, Bud Rolfson hosted the picnic, I seem to > remember it was Dan Masters solving your problem. "FT" Right, Bud had you all well fed so you, Brad Kahler, Dave Massey?, and Dan Masters were ready for troubleshooting. I started up, drove 20 yards and the car died. I think the coil-to-distributor lead had broken internally a couple inches from the coil. My advice: when packing your road trip tool kit in the boot, be sure to pack a Dan Masters. Steven '62 TR4 x 2 etc. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu May 1 08:04:39 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 14:04:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. In-Reply-To: <20080501020942.UXZK19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080501020942.UXZK19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: I can't run dual exhaust through the frame as the original TR. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself wherever you are. Mobilize! http://www.gowindowslive.com/Mobile/Landing/Messenger/Default.aspx?Locale=en- US?ocid=TAG_APRIL From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 1 08:37:53 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 07:37:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080501143752.UWJG2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I can't run dual exhaust through the frame as the original TR. It'd be simpler (and less ugly IMO) than jacking the car up enough to clear exhaust under the frame. Or, you could join the tubes together into one (larger than stock) tube, long enough to pass through the center section. You can't really use all the power that V8 makes anyway, so the slight loss shouldn't be noticeable. Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu May 1 11:27:05 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 11:27:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] Old Dealer Network In-Reply-To: <03e601c8ab48$f275a390$45247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> References: <48194632.9070004@earthlink.net> <03e601c8ab48$f275a390$45247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <4819FD69.9030609@tscusa.org> Mine came in to British Leyland Motors Inc. In Jacksonville, Florida Joe, can you do that as a 1200 dpi scan? FRED E THOMAS wrote: > Jacksonville is correct, mine is original dealer ==Jarrard Motors, Pensacola > == "FT" > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Burlein" > To: "Triumph List" > Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 12:25 AM > Subject: [TR] Old Dealer Network > > > >> OK, another esoteric question. In my quest to recreate my window >> sticker I'd like to put in a Florida Dealership from the early 70s. >> (Who knows where my car originally came from...) Does anyone have any >> docs with the old dealer network on it?! (The import city was Jax I >> believe). >> >> Thanks again, >> >> Joe >> >> PS: the upgraded 72 window sticker should be done by tomorrow and this >> weekend I'll work on the 74... >> -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From leejohn7 at gmail.com Thu May 1 11:35:48 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 10:35:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 cut out under power In-Reply-To: <4819C948.6010405@newellboys.net> References: <022801c8ab0a$2a21f3f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <481936F8.2010004@newellboys.net> <03c501c8ab44$507e9d20$45247247@fred8kwiskhcfu> <4819C948.6010405@newellboys.net> Message-ID: Well, it turns out the coil WAS bad, as well as, I think, the low tension terminal wire. It had lost insulation so must have been shorting out to the case. I wrapped it in tape and we got spark. So I don't know what came first, the coil or the wire, but I imagine I messed up the wire when screwing around under the dist cap. This is almost enough to send me to electronic ignition! At least I will add an spare points assembly in my boot bag. Again, thanks for all your help. Keep your AAA paid up! John From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu May 1 12:42:58 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 13:42:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] what is this car? References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> saw this car in an ad (oh, yeah, i think there's a woman in it too) anyone I D this car? http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ From peter at nosimport.com Thu May 1 12:50:53 2008 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 13:50:53 -0500 Subject: [TR] what is this car? In-Reply-To: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080501134919.03821608@nosimport.com> It would be great if it were a Standard Ten..... or Ten, after ten. Peter C At 01:42 PM 5/1/2008, Oliver wrote: >saw this car in an ad (oh, yeah, i think there's a woman in it too) > >anyone I D this car? > >http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ From twakeman at razzolink.com Thu May 1 12:52:09 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 11:52:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] what is this car? In-Reply-To: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> Message-ID: <481A1159.5020404@razzolink.com> Oliver wrote: > saw this car in an ad (oh, yeah, i think there's a woman in it too) > > anyone I D this car? > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ > Early big Healey? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 1 12:58:20 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 11:58:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] what is this car? In-Reply-To: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> Message-ID: <03d501c8abbd$52af54d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > anyone I D this car? > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ Looks like an MGA to me. They had that strut to support the windscreen frame, and a banjo steering wheel similar to the TR2-3 (but with no control head). Well, I had to try one to learn a TR3 is better, right ? Randall From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu May 1 15:34:15 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 22:34:15 +0100 Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options References: <003201c8ab75$05c94920$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <038e01c8abd3$1b207420$0201a8c0@Bevan> I wouldn't disagree with anything in general terms in what Nolan has said. Perhaps the only query I'd raise (pedantic) concerns the hardtops. Cars ordered with them were shipped with them fitted. Hardtop kits (as identified by a part number from the Parts Division) were usually shipped as a basic steel shell in primer paint with all the necessary fittings - viz listing bars, headliner, glass, seals, clamps etc. If a TR owner wanted a hardtop, this was usually made up by the dealer bodyshop and painted in either a matching colour to the car or something entirely different. This is why they stayed in primer. As for the transit damage issues, these were often major and from what Nolan has said, little appears to have changed. Triumph-wise, we're talking (mostly) of times when ordinary non-containerised cargo ships were used and not the Ro-Ro (roll on roll off) vessels of today. Because the boats took a range of cargoes and not just cars, it wasn't unusual for timber packing crates to go below decks in rope slings, with the cars going on open deck in all weathers. After a few weeks sitting on a flooded WW2 airfield transit park waiting for payment to be set up and then up to a week or ten days in the full force of a winter Atlantic storm, it can be reasonably be argued that the rust started round about then :) Earlier shipments in the 50's and early 60's of sidescreen TR's, cars were usually shipped without windscreens, soft tops or bumpers and had only the normal factory tonneau to cover the cockpit. The front and rear ends had timber baulks fitted and these were ideal as pushers. I've seen several pix of new TR3's at Liverpool and Southampton, bumper to bumper along the dockside, with the last car in the row pushing perhaps 10 or 15 cars in front, so the clutch was 'well used' by the time the first owner got it. Movement was on a one-at-a-time basis as the car rolled on to a cradle and was craned up on to the top deck. Yes, sometimes they fell off - but they were always put on board, unless they actually went in the dock itself. Mostly, really badly damaged cars (assessed by the ship's crew) were sited close to the ships rails and pushed overboard in international waters. Marine Insurance picked up the loss and usually by a note in the manifest of 'bad weather' 'freak wave' or 'broken deck lashings.' Oh Happy Days Jonmac From spitlist at cox.net Thu May 1 15:49:17 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 14:49:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] what is this car? References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> Message-ID: <007d01c8abd5$3494a640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I can't say aout the car but the chick driving it ought to always know what time it is! Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oliver" To: "TR list" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 11:42 AM Subject: [TR] what is this car? > saw this car in an ad (oh, yeah, i think there's a woman in it too) > > anyone I D this car? > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu May 1 16:48:14 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 15:48:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] what is this car? In-Reply-To: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> Message-ID: <8C3C9DD6-8736-4B7A-9EF2-0FCAB259D76A@cox.net> I agree with Randall it is an MGA. I drove an MGA daily for 13 years I would recognize the handle brace for the windscreen anywhere. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu May 1 18:22:23 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 20:22:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] what is this car? References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net><000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> <007d01c8abd5$3494a640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <006b01c8abea$98350e50$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Can blonds tell time?? From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu May 1 18:15:16 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 20:15:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] what is this car? In-Reply-To: <006b01c8abea$98350e50$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> <007d01c8abd5$3494a640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <006b01c8abea$98350e50$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <200805012015.16573.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 01 May 2008 08:22 pm, Ed Woods wrote: > Can blonds tell time?? The answer to that question is as plain as the 3 watches on her arm! 1 for daylight savings time, the next for std time and the third for GMT or maybe its an alarm clock! Bob From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu May 1 21:04:16 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 23:04:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] On the Road Again........ Message-ID: <002701c8ac01$37164410$210110ac@bobspc> Well folks......I got the car back on the road again...............just the basics, tranny tunnel and driver's seat! Noisy, dirty, smelly from manifold paint and anti-seize but running! The hydraulic clutch feels great........... it reminds me of my last Audi......light and smooth. The 5 speed tranny slides into gear so easily though I need to learn where 3rd is! The Nissan diff is smooth and quiet too..... Well, I really won't know how quiet everything is until I get the whole interior back together. But for now everything is great. There's some updates on my site but I need to work on the 5 speed section. We had a couple of starts and stops and start overs there! Oh yea...........and there's no fluid leaks anywhere.......obviously it's no longer a British car! It's a Triota or a Triissan. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan Differential http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From patton at suscom-maine.net Thu May 1 21:29:53 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 23:29:53 -0400 Subject: [TR] On the Road Again........ In-Reply-To: <002701c8ac01$37164410$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob, I'd suggest you carry an oil can and give a few squirts wherever you park. The only thing that doesn't even seep on my car is the Nissan differential! Rick > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Bob Danielson > Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 11:04 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] On the Road Again........ > > > Well folks......I got the car back on the road > again...............just the > basics, tranny tunnel and driver's seat! Noisy, dirty, smelly > from manifold > paint and anti-seize but running! The hydraulic clutch feels > great........... it reminds me of my last Audi......light and > smooth. The 5 > speed tranny slides into gear so easily though I need to learn > where 3rd is! > The Nissan diff is smooth and quiet too..... Well, I really won't know how > quiet everything is until I get the whole interior back together. But for > now everything is great. There's some updates on my site but I > need to work > on the 5 speed section. We had a couple of starts and stops and > start overs > there! Oh yea...........and there's no fluid leaks > anywhere.......obviously > it's no longer a British car! It's a Triota or a Triissan. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan Differential > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as patton at suscom-maine.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From team.net at Daveola.com Fri May 2 03:28:20 2008 From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 02:28:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission Conversion Message-ID: So - I finally decided to go ahead with Herman's Toyota Transmission conversion. I took photos and documented the entire process, for those of you that are interested. So far the transmission seems to be working great, it's pretty nice to have a fifth gear, and to be able to easily shift into first (I just have to break myself of the now unnecessary habit of shifting into 2nd before 1st every time :) http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Transmission-Conversion/ Please CC me directly on any responses, as I only subscribed long enough to post this message. Enjoy! Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 --- I am totally into Perl now. I love it. It rules with an iron fist. -- From supertr6 at earthlink.net Fri May 2 04:55:29 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 06:55:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] Transmission Conversions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <481AF321.4030405@earthlink.net> David/Bob/etc, I am curious what the big attraction is to going to the Nissan/Toyota 5 speed conversion? I have the standard 4 speed with overdrive and don't have a problem cruising on the highway at a reasonable RPM in 4th/overdrive. My transmission doesn't have a problem shifting gears and is very smooth. It is also drum tight and doesn't leak. (Granted, it was rebuilt by British Sports Car Works about 10 years ago) So, why the conversions? Did you guys not want to add overdrive or couldn't find one? Is the gearing better in the new diffs compared to the old? Thanks, Joe David Ljung Madison wrote: > So - I finally decided to go ahead with Herman's Toyota Transmission > conversion. I took photos and documented the entire process, for those > of you that are interested. So far the transmission seems to be working > great, it's pretty nice to have a fifth gear, and to be able to easily > shift into first (I just have to break myself of the now unnecessary > habit of shifting into 2nd before 1st every time :) > > http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Transmission-Conversion/ > > Please CC me directly on any responses, as I only subscribed long > enough to post this message. Enjoy! > > Dave > > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 > --- I am totally into Perl now. I love it. It rules with an iron fist. -- > _______________________________________________ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri May 2 05:49:58 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 07:49:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Transmission Conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001901c8ac4a$a784e140$210110ac@bobspc> David, Nice job with the documentation of your installation along with the pictures. The only question I have is with your driveshaft. It looks like you still have the slip in the shaft and are using Herman's locking collar. Herman is now strongly recommending that the slip in the driveshaft be totally eliminated. His locking collar only prevents the driveshaft from moving in but there's nothing to prevent it from moving out and pushing the tranny flange into the rear seal. He's seen one tranny failure and had caught a couple of others with damaged seals from driveshaft movement. I went with a new drive shaft (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffNewInstall.htm) and the driveshaft shop agreed with Herman on never having 2 slips in one drive-train. You might want to give Herman a call. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Ljung Madison Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 5:28 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Transmission Conversion So - I finally decided to go ahead with Herman's Toyota Transmission conversion. I took photos and documented the entire process, for those of you that are interested. So far the transmission seems to be working great, it's pretty nice to have a fifth gear, and to be able to easily shift into first (I just have to break myself of the now unnecessary habit of shifting into 2nd before 1st every time :) http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Transmission-Conversion/ Please CC me directly on any responses, as I only subscribed long enough to post this message. Enjoy! Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 --- I am totally into Perl now. I love it. It rules with an iron fist. -- This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.7/1410 - Release Date: 5/1/2008 5:30 PM From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Fri May 2 05:53:30 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 07:53:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cloth car cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you really want protection and the parking location is not on the street but in a driveway or behind the house... Car Capsule has a exterior version that allows for air to be constantly circulating (it can actually dry out a 'damp' car). Seen them on eBay but even then pricey in the $500 range. See auction 250240166832. or search on "carcapsule" I have the indoors version and stored a completely stripped (paint) for almost two years without the problematic red stuff appearing. I bought mine from a local 'dealer' and it was not as high as the current ebay price for that type ($330). Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 7:15 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Cloth car cover > Brad, > One thing to look for is a cover that is not "waterproof", but water > resistant. The reason being that a waterproof cover does not breathe and > will > create more problems than it solves. I store my cars indoors but use a > Covercraft > "Noah" model when necessary. They do breathe and prevent condensation > (better than most) from forming. Covercraft does not make the fabric, > rather they > just stitch it and the fabric is called "Block It". It will run you about > $160. > I would think, and do not have direct experience with it, that you may be > better off workihng this out so that the cover does not rest on the car, > rather > air is allowed to circulate around it. What first comes to mind is a > technique for building a spray booth out of PVC pipe and PVC fittings and > covering > with sheet plastic securing with duct tape. That way you can be > waterproof, > have air circulation, and see what is going on under there without > removing > the cover. I would think you can get this done for less than $160. > Good luck > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used > car > listings at AOL Autos. > (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From twakeman at razzolink.com Fri May 2 06:50:27 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 05:50:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] what is this car? In-Reply-To: <006b01c8abea$98350e50$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net><000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local> <007d01c8abd5$3494a640$2d02a8c0@Belkin> <006b01c8abea$98350e50$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <481B0E13.8090509@razzolink.com> Ed Woods wrote: > Can blonds tell time?? > Any blond guys on the list to answer that? Can you guys tell time? From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri May 2 06:59:31 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 08:59:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] On the Road Again........ References: <002701c8ac01$37164410$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <008001c8ac54$5e09f3c0$0200a8c0@Desktop> Well that's grate.....but that poor neighborhood Wow know more e-mails I like it NEXT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 11:04 PM Subject: [6pack] On the Road Again........ > Well folks......I got the car back on the road again...............just > the > basics, tranny tunnel and driver's seat! Noisy, dirty, smelly from > manifold > paint and anti-seize but running! The hydraulic clutch feels > great........... it reminds me of my last Audi......light and smooth. The > 5 > speed tranny slides into gear so easily though I need to learn where 3rd > is! > The Nissan diff is smooth and quiet too..... Well, I really won't know how > quiet everything is until I get the whole interior back together. But for > now everything is great. There's some updates on my site but I need to > work > on the 5 speed section. We had a couple of starts and stops and start > overs > there! Oh yea...........and there's no fluid leaks > anywhere.......obviously > it's no longer a British car! It's a Triota or a Triissan. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan Differential > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 2 06:59:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 05:59:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] what is this car? In-Reply-To: <481B0E13.8090509@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <20080502125905.PQJX20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Can you guys tell time? What should I tell it ? From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri May 2 08:22:41 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 10:22:41 EDT Subject: [TR] Dealer vs Factory Options Message-ID: Interesting John and all.......my first new car was a 1969 TR6 purchased in March of 1970. I wanted red but all that the dealer had in stock was Jasmine so I took that one almost sight unseen. When I went to pick it up and sign the papers, the car was brought around and oddly parked in front of the dealership's main window so I couldn't see the passenger side well without a bit of a shimmy around to that side. I blissfully signed and drove off home happy as pig in you know what! While I was washing the car a few days later I noticed that the paint quality in the portion below the horizontal panel crease on the right wing and right door had more orange peel and wasn't as "glossy" as the rest of the car. I don't know why but I looked under the car on the passenger side and was horrified to see a deep scrape in the frame from just behind the right front wheel well to nearly the back of the door. Long story short, I complained, got the area repainted to original specs.....the Triumph Regional Rep (geez, maybe it was Mike Cook!) told me that they traced the damage back to "large man" who worked on the docks at Leonia, NJ POE who had a habit of mis-judging the ramps when he unloaded cars....hmmm - methinks that perhaps this "large man" was influenced by something other than his size?? Oh well, all ended well..... Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 5/1/2008 2:37:03 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: Yes, sometimes they fell off - but they were always put on board, **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Fri May 2 09:01:32 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 08:01:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] what is this car? In-Reply-To: <481B0E13.8090509@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <379136.88399.qm@web54107.mail.re2.yahoo.com> --- TeriAnn Wakeman wrote: > Ed Woods wrote: > > Can blonds tell time?? > > > Any blond guys on the list to answer that? Can you guys tell time? No, clocks tell time - I merely read them :P ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri May 2 09:05:30 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 15:05:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. In-Reply-To: <20080501143752.UWJG2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080501143752.UWJG2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: I'm using oval 2.5" tube for the under pipes. At this point I am still riding a little lower than stock so some adjustment won't be noticed. I looked into going through the frame and it was not possible. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you. http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mob ile_052008 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 2 09:20:57 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 08:20:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Suspension help. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080502152056.WAUL19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > I looked into going through the > frame and it was not possible. Just need a bigger torch ... From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri May 2 09:57:52 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 11:57:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Transmission Conversions Message-ID: In a message dated 5/2/2008 3:56:54 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, supertr6 at earthlink.net writes: David/Bob/etc, I am curious what the big attraction is to going to the Nissan/Toyota 5 speed conversion? I have the standard 4 speed with overdrive and don't have a problem cruising on the highway at a reasonable RPM in 4th/overdrive. My transmission doesn't have a problem shifting gears and is very smooth. It is also drum tight and doesn't leak. (Granted, it was rebuilt by British Sports Car Works about 10 years ago) So, why the conversions? Did you guys not want to add overdrive or couldn't find one? Is the gearing better in the new diffs compared to the old? Thanks, Joe Joe, I can tell you my perspective, as a friend of Herman's and having witnessed the evolution of this conversion kit. I'llytell you at the outset, he is a perfectionist. Herman originally had a cottage business rebuilding overdrives and transmissions to help support his hobby. He was dealing with many transmissions which were terrifically worn and he was simultaneously facing a shortage of parts. When he did get the parts, they were frequently craptastic. He made bushinsg, he made sleeves. He fixed old parts where possible. At the same time, Herman was active in the Triumph Community driving frequently cross country putting lots of miles every year on his car. Looking for reliability, he tried out the first Toyota conversion and was pleased. He could see that here was a way for fellow TR owners to have a reliable easy shifting gearbox with manual overdrive in 5th gear, taking advantage of model technology. This conversion has been his main business now for several years as he has shipped several; hundred out. I still have my OD TR gearbox as do you. I do not drive days at a time at 80 mph or I would have the Toyota tranny in it in a heartbeat. Also, for someone who has a sick OD, they could replace it with a 5 speed and save the OD tranny for a future buyer who wanted an "original" car. For someone who has no OD, this is an especially good fix. Best, Mike Moore **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri May 2 10:53:34 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 12:53:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Metal Hard Top shell Message-ID: One of the Spridget list members picked up a metal hard top...appears to be for TR6 or Spitfire...shell only, no glass, rubber, or upholstery. He wants $50 for it, and he's in NJ. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri May 2 11:00:52 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 13:00:52 EDT Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker Message-ID: Way cool...anyone got TR4 sticker? or..sacrilege...an MGB? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 4/29/2008 9:10:08 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, thenicholls at verizon.net writes: http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From BearTranserv at aol.com Fri May 2 11:25:19 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 13:25:19 EDT Subject: [TR] Cloth car cover Message-ID: I used a similar cover for the TR4 for 5 or so years...the cover rotted and the sand and wind we have so much of in El Paso got under the cover and "sanded" a few spots down to the metal. You definitely don't want the cover to touch the car if you can help it. Your weather may vary enough for this not to be a concern however. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 5/1/2008 6:59:10 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: For maybe 5 years I used one of the high-tech-fabric covers from California Car Cover, **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri May 2 12:17:04 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 11:17:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission Conversions References: <481AF321.4030405@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <007f01c8ac80$b9438360$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I have had Herman's trans conversion kit for 5 years, with outstanding results in my TR6. . The transmission shifts smoother and quickly in to gears with no leaks. The hydraulic t.o. bearing is much more positive then the standard t.o. & clutch slave cylinder. The final drive ratio with my a 3:7 diff is a -.80 in 5th gear; compared to final drive with same diff ratio in TR6 o.d. trans the ratio becomes a -.87. Since I couldn't locate an o.d. at that time this seem to me to make more sense for the those long cruises from NV to Cal. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Burlein To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 3:55 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Transmission Conversions David/Bob/etc, I am curious what the big attraction is to going to the Nissan/Toyota 5 speed conversion? I have the standard 4 speed with overdrive and don't have a problem cruising on the highway at a reasonable RPM in 4th/overdrive. My transmission doesn't have a problem shifting gears and is very smooth. It is also drum tight and doesn't leak. (Granted, it was rebuilt by British Sports Car Works about 10 years ago) So, why the conversions? Did you guys not want to add overdrive or couldn't find one? Is the gearing better in the new diffs compared to the old? Thanks, Joe David Ljung Madison wrote: > So - I finally decided to go ahead with Herman's Toyota Transmission > conversion. I took photos and documented the entire process, for those > of you that are interested. So far the transmission seems to be working > great, it's pretty nice to have a fifth gear, and to be able to easily > shift into first (I just have to break myself of the now unnecessary > habit of shifting into 2nd before 1st every time :) > > http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Transmission-Conversion/ > > Please CC me directly on any responses, as I only subscribed long > enough to post this message. Enjoy! > > Dave > > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 > --- I am totally into Perl now. I love it. It rules with an iron fist. -- > _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From arakelianp at mossmotors.com Fri May 2 12:36:35 2008 From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 11:36:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cloth car cover Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64364@kb1.mossmotors.com> I live in the Santa Barbara area. First you probably won't see any rain or moisture for the next six months in California. I have a "ultralon" car cover on my TR6 which lives under a car port. Have had it for 5 years so far. It is compact - stores small. It is very water resistant, but still breathes. Yes it does leave a little residue on the car, but that is the nature of most car covers I have seen. Keeps, dust and other residue out very well. Does not scratch or damage the paint. The thing most people do not fully appreciate is a car cover is not a garage. The car capsule is an excellent alternative. It will also protect the car from hard force damage. There is both an indoor and outdoor version. Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 From wbeech at flash.net Fri May 2 13:37:50 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 13:37:50 -0600 Subject: [TR] Steering Column Blanking Plate Message-ID: <000401c8ac8c$02e0e070$6401a8c0@sniffer> I called TRF to order some grommets and found they had a gasket for the right-side steering column hole (my '58 is LHD). I was told there is a part number for the blanking plate: 601962 but they do not and have never had them. Then I called MM and was told the part number for the gasket: 603346 is a solid piece and serves as the blanking plate. So, who is correct? If TRF is right are they any suggestions as to where I may get this plate? If MM is correct then why do I have two holes with threaded spring-clips on either side of the hole in my firewall (maybe a DIY from the PO?) TeriAnn has a very nice firewall grommet diagram for the post-60,000 TR3s on her site, does such a diagram exist for the pre-60,000 units as well? Thanks to all, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From FGFO1 at aol.com Fri May 2 14:14:29 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 16:14:29 EDT Subject: [TR] automotive paint in california Message-ID: Today a friend told me that come July 1st, California has enacted a law that all automotive repainting will have to be water based. Any one heard this? any truth to it? I know water based automotive paint has been available for some years now. I have heard good and bad. and I know its very air pollution friendly. But so soon? thanks Frank Fisher **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From supertr6 at earthlink.net Fri May 2 14:15:16 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 16:15:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <481B7654.1080705@earthlink.net> An MGB?!?!??! Burn Him! ;-) BearTranserv at aol.com wrote: > Way cool...anyone got TR4 sticker? or..sacrilege...an MGB? > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico > > 63 TR4 > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg > carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly > formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for > experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging > to be inspected and adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the shop manual. > Dan McKay > > > > > In a message dated 4/29/2008 9:10:08 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, > thenicholls at verizon.net writes: > > http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family > favorites at AOL Food > . From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri May 2 14:26:07 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 15:26:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker References: <481B7654.1080705@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local> tolerance, my friend. my 72 tr6 and my 73 mgb were, in fact, made by the same company. in fact, they share some common parts. i also know that the mgb dizzy is the same as on a spitfire. but you may be happy to know that the mg people feel the same about you . . . those of us that cross over do it very quietly. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Burlein" To: Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 3:15 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker > An MGB?!?!??! Burn Him! > > ;-) From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com Fri May 2 14:38:44 2008 From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 16:38:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 Stub Axle Seal Replacement Message-ID: <6118759.1209760724591.JavaMail.root@mswamui-billy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Friends, I am trying to replace the seals on my TR6 stub axles. I am trying to pull the bearings off in the directions of the axle splines. This, hopefully, will enable me to remove the carrier that holds the seal so I can replace it. I am unable to get the bearing off using this method. It moves about an eighth of an inch and seems to be getting blocked on a minor lip. Am I doing it wrong? Does heat need to be applied? I am trying to avoid pulling the flange but will if that is the only way to do it. Responses from anyone who has been there and done that there will be greatly appreciated. Doug Nelson Washington, GA 74TR6 ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From spitlist at cox.net Fri May 2 14:51:54 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 13:51:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] automotive paint in california References: Message-ID: <004101c8ac96$5aa39140$2d02a8c0@Belkin> It wouldn't surprise me. California was the first (I believe) to outlaw Nicrocellulose laquer paint which created all those fantastic candy paint jobs in the 60's. Just don't be very aggressive when you go to wash your car after that. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 1:14 PM Subject: [TR] automotive paint in california > Today a friend told me that come July 1st, California has enacted a law that > all automotive repainting will have to be water based. Any one heard this? any > truth to it? > I know water based automotive paint has been available for some years now. I > have heard good and bad. and I know its very air pollution friendly. > But so soon? > thanks > Frank Fisher > > > > **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family > favorites at AOL Food. > (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 2 15:13:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 14:13:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Steering Column Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: <000401c8ac8c$02e0e070$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <000401c8ac8c$02e0e070$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <060b01c8ac99$645190e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > there is a part > number for the blanking plate: 601962 but they do not and > have never had > them. Then I called MM and was told the part number for the > gasket: 603346 > is a solid piece and serves as the blanking plate. > > So, who is correct? They both are. 603346 is a solid sheet of rubber-like material that actually closes off the hole; while 601962 is a metal plate that holds 603346 in place. As I recall the plate is not solid but has a hole in it, making it more of a funny shaped ring. BTW, the SPC description for 601962 is "Plate, retaining sealing pad", while 603346 is described as "Pad, sealing, steering column aperture". > If TRF is right are they any suggestions > as to where I may get this plate? I'd suggest looking for it used with any of the various people that part out sidescreen cars. Start watching eBay, I'll bet there's one listed within a few days. > If MM is correct then why do I have two > holes with > threaded spring-clips on either side of the hole in my > firewall (maybe a DIY > from the PO?) I believe those are original. > TeriAnn has a very nice firewall grommet diagram for the > post-60,000 TR3s on > her site, does such a diagram exist for the pre-60,000 units as well? Not that I know of. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Fri May 2 16:40:49 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 22:40:49 +0000 Subject: [TR] what is this car? Message-ID: <050220082240.23610.481B987100081FA400005C3A22165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Okay. Blondes only look like we can't tell time because we don't give brunettes the time of day.... -------------- Original message -------------- From: TeriAnn Wakeman > Ed Woods wrote: > > Can blonds tell time?? > > > Any blond guys on the list to answer that? Can you guys tell time? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri May 2 16:40:00 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 23:40:00 +0100 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Blank Window Sticker References: <481B7654.1080705@earthlink.net> <000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local> Message-ID: <04c101c8aca5$74fb0b90$0201a8c0@Bevan> I love MG's no matter how old or young. Spent a fun day a few weeks back with a friend who owns a '73 MGB Roadster. We did about 200 miles in the day and both drove it. If I had the space (and the available cash) I wouldn't hesitate to have a B or a Midget as well as the PI and short-term Spitfire - but the Midget would have to have the 'A' series engine. Jon (traitor in the camp) Mac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oliver" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 9:26 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker > tolerance, my friend. > > my 72 tr6 and my 73 mgb were, in fact, made by the same company. > > in fact, they share some common parts. > > i also know that the mgb dizzy is the same as on a spitfire. > > but you may be happy to know that the mg people feel the same about you . . > . > > those of us that cross over do it very quietly. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Joe Burlein" > To: > Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>; > Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 3:15 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker > > >> An MGB?!?!??! Burn Him! >> >> ;-) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com From jat1127 at hotmail.com Sat May 3 07:15:34 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 09:15:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 6 Ebay Message-ID: Listers, Does anyone know the TR 6 currently on Ebay. Item 120256901892? Anyone live near this location ....Raleigh NC THANKSJohn John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack 1. http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat May 3 09:22:06 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 11:22:06 EDT Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker Message-ID: ahhh yes, grasshopper! I have many fond memories from the two MGBs I owned many years ago....one had reclining seats:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 5/2/2008 1:31:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: those of us that cross over do it very quietly **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From supertr6 at earthlink.net Sat May 3 09:32:40 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 11:32:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <481C8598.2060003@earthlink.net> I fondly remember the old days when cross-overs used to stay in the closet... Chip19474 at aol.com wrote: > ahhh yes, grasshopper! I have many fond memories from the two MGBs I owned > many years ago....one had reclining seats:) > > Chip Krout > Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. > Skippack, PA > 1976 TR6 CF57822U > > > In a message dated 5/2/2008 1:31:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: > > those of us that cross over do it very quietly > > > > > **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family > favorites at AOL Food. > (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat May 3 09:44:54 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 11:44:54 EDT Subject: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car Message-ID: "ahhh yes, grasshopper! I have many fond memories from the two MGBs I owned many years ago....one had reclining seats:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd." ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------------------------- Chip, I think I know of which you speak... In college I once double dated in a MGA. I was the one on the luggage rack. My MG TD was not the date place to be at a Drive In Movie or most any other place in 1960. (And I was varsity wrestling agile at 137 lbs) Joe > > From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat May 3 10:39:37 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 12:39:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > Chip, I think I know of which you speak...> > In college I once double dated in a MGA. I was the one on the luggage rack.> > My MG TD was not the date place to be at a Drive In Movie or most any other > place in 1960. (And I was varsity wrestling agile at 137 lbs) Joe An MGB is a chick magnet. I know this because my MGB broke down so much I struck up a friendship with the Counter Girl at the local Foreign Car parts store. We started dating after she found me the only MGB tag light in North America. John H. From triosan at gmail.com Sat May 3 11:13:13 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 10:13:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Glass for hardtop Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805031013j4d76a79eif527e6a7767d715e@mail.gmail.com> Saw someone indicate a blank shell was available. I have a set of windows available if anyone is interested. The rear one for sure is no longer available. Will be putting them on Ebay soon, so if any one on the lists is interested let me know. -- Chuck Arnold From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat May 3 14:21:24 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 15:21:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car References: Message-ID: <003301c8ad5b$fefd6e30$8215a8c0@garage.local> and ?????????? ----- Original Message ----- From: John Herrera To: n197tr4 at cs.com ; chip19474 at aol.com ; sumton at sbcglobal.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2008 11:39 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car > Chip, I think I know of which you speak... > > In college I once double dated in a MGA. I was the one on the luggage rack. > > My MG TD was not the date place to be at a Drive In Movie or most any other > place in 1960. (And I was varsity wrestling agile at 137 lbs) Joe An MGB is a chick magnet. I know this because my MGB broke down so much I struck up a friendship with the Counter Girl at the local Foreign Car parts store. We started dating after she found me the only MGB tag light in North America. John H. From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat May 3 16:07:44 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 18:07:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] some new car shapes Message-ID: <481CA9F0.31360.23DC8224@localhost> Over the last few days I've been contemplating the shapes of some new cars. First, the new (more or less) Ford Mustang. When I first saw it some time ago it struck me as curious, seeming big but not quite. Lately the more I see of it the more I like it. It looks purposeful and muscular but not overly big. It uses shape and suggestion to say "power" without actually saying it overtly with gizmos, so to speak. All the details seem coherent too. At various times in its past the Mustang has looked artistic, e.g. the original, or silly , e.g. the fastbacks of the 70's (according to my flawed memory). At least to my eyes Ford got this version spot on. I saw a BMW Z4 coupe a few days ago. The swoopy lines viewed from the front looked like they were copied from some 60's Italian race car; not sure which though, I never could keep them straight. But from the rear quarter it screamed Michelotti. If I'd squinted a bit it would have looked just like a GT6. (Note the LBC content. Bet you thought there wouldn't be any!) It didn't seem all that much bigger than a GT6 either. You may now return to your discussion of TR6 diff mounts... Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From DLylis at aol.com Sat May 3 17:16:45 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 19:16:45 EDT Subject: [TR] some new car shapes Message-ID: In a message dated 5/3/2008 5:08:25 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: At various times in its past the Mustang has looked artistic, e.g. the original, or silly , e.g. the fastbacks of the 70's (according to my flawed memory). How about the Mustang II? That was almost the end of the line it was so bad. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From L1J1S at aol.com Sat May 3 18:18:30 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 20:18:30 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 rubber door seals Message-ID: list, just installed the lower rubber seal to the doors on my tr3-a today. one really has to prepare themselves to close those doors. why is it that the rear tire cover and the door rubber seals are are a exercise in itself to get them to close? were they like this when they left the factory? larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From jmitch at snet.net Sat May 3 19:19:58 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 21:19:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] Correct yellow zinc calipers Message-ID: <481D0F3E.2030302@snet.net> I need to replace my front calipers(16PB) with either new or rebuilt units. Does anyone know who supplies them with the correct yellow zinc coating rather than painted. Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat May 3 19:38:23 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 21:38:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Correct yellow zinc calipers Message-ID: <04C1985F.2C251794.00159EE9@cs.com> i routinely have components plated in yellow zinc. this may be your easiest route, even though it might mean dismantling and assembling again. just an idea....joe a > I need to replace my front calipers(16PB) with either new or rebuilt >units. Does anyone know who supplies them with the correct yellow zinc >coating rather than painted. Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From mark at bradakis.com Sat May 3 19:50:59 2008 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 19:50:59 -0600 Subject: [TR] Team.Net spring fund drive Message-ID: <481D1683.3030107@bradakis.com> Gee, the beginning days of May, usually pleasant spring weather. Woke up to 34 degrees F with light snow falling the other morning here in Salt Lake City. Nice. Springtime indeed! Seasoned subscribers know the drill, here's an outline for others. The Team.Net mailing lists - http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo and http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool ( I'm slowly getting around to moving all the lists from majordomo to mailman ) FTP site, archives, wiki ( http://www.team.net/the-local ) are all run by some dweeb who spends too much time hiding out in a basement office whacking on computers instead of working on and driving his cars. Basically it is a labor of love that has been going on for roughly 20 years, 17 years since the Team.Net domain was registered on April 11, 1991. But there are some out of pocket expenses that are needed to keep things going. So once or twice a year I ask for funding assistance to help cover the costs of this "free" service. So if you have a few extra bucks on hand and want to stimulate the Team.Net economy, check out http://www.team.net/donate.html for details. Thanks, mjb. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 3 22:07:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 21:07:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Team.Net spring fund drive In-Reply-To: <481D1683.3030107@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <20080504040712.NNRQ28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > So > once or twice a year I ask for funding assistance Wow, has it been that long already ? Time really does fly like an arrow (and fruit flies like a banana). Anyhoo, donation on it's way. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat May 3 22:48:39 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 22:48:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carb Questions Message-ID: <000601c8ada2$206ab370$6401a8c0@sniffer> Good day List, Preparing rebuild my older pair of SU H6 carbs, AUC768, and am trying to find the tolerances for the throttle shaft (butterfly shaft). In other circles I have heard about bearings and reamers to correct any issues here but upon initial inspection I do not find any type of bearings in the body for this shaft. I measured the play using a dial indicator in the center of the carb throat and I can lift the shaft .002, but I don't know if this is good or horrible??? I have the Speed Sport book "Tuning SU Carburetters" that is nice but no data other than lots of needle charts. Which brings the second question: I live at an elevation of 6,000ft, the needles in these carbs are "SM" which is the standard needle according to the the Bentley's & Moss catalog, Haynes says TESM. Should I be using a richer needle to compensate for the elevation? I am not racing or tuning for high performance. BTW, all this should leave me with a spare pair of Stromberg 175s should anyone be in need you can contact me off list. Thanks to all, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat May 3 23:02:35 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 05:02:35 +0000 Subject: [TR] Mystery of the week. Message-ID: I have been driving my TR3A around So. Ca. for the last week. As my want inspires I smoke an occasional cigar while driving. Since I smoke really cheap cigars I mount them in a cigar tip while I smoke to prevent the shedding of tobacco into my mouth. Twice this week I have finished a cigar, deposited the stub outside of the car, and then dropped the cigar tip into the map compartment of the driver's door. Both times when I have later gone to retrieve the cigar tip it has been gone. There are no holes in the map compartment. I have searched the floor of the car to no avail. Anyone have any ideas on where my cigar tip have been disappearing to? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you. http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mob ile_052008 From wbeech at flash.net Sat May 3 23:06:15 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 23:06:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mystery of the week. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001601c8ada4$95dc3e60$6401a8c0@sniffer> Mice... Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tom white Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2008 11:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Mystery of the week. I have been driving my TR3A around So. Ca. for the last week. As my want inspires I smoke an occasional cigar while driving. Since I smoke really cheap cigars I mount them in a cigar tip while I smoke to prevent the shedding of tobacco into my mouth. Twice this week I have finished a cigar, deposited the stub outside of the car, and then dropped the cigar tip into the map compartment of the driver's door. Both times when I have later gone to retrieve the cigar tip it has been gone. There are no holes in the map compartment. I have searched the floor of the car to no avail. Anyone have any ideas on where my cigar tip have been disappearing to? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you. http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mo b ile_052008 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat May 3 23:26:18 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 05:26:18 +0000 Subject: [TR] Mystery of the week. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My car does not have mice, only hamsters under the bonnet.Best regards,Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get Free (PRODUCT) RED Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat May 3 23:28:37 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 05:28:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] Carb Questions In-Reply-To: <000601c8ada2$206ab370$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <000601c8ada2$206ab370$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: The best solution to the carb problems is to replace them with a Holly four barrel. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you. http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mob ile_052008 From wbeech at flash.net Sat May 3 23:32:14 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 23:32:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carb Questions In-Reply-To: References: <000601c8ada2$206ab370$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <002001c8ada8$36feac30$6401a8c0@sniffer> I am afraid that would send my poor little beast in cardiac arrest.... Bill _____ From: tom white [mailto:tswhitez123 at hotmail.com] Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2008 11:29 PM To: wbeech; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Carb Questions The best solution to the carb problems is to replace them with a Holly four barrel. Best regards, Tom _____ With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you. Connect on the go. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 3 23:34:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 22:34:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carb Questions In-Reply-To: <000601c8ada2$206ab370$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080504053455.GGWU1070.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I measured the play using a dial > indicator in the center of the carb throat and I can lift the > shaft .002, but I don't know if this is good or horrible??? .002" isn't bad; but is that along the axis of the carb throat, or across it ? My experience is that they tend to wear the most vertically (plus that's the axis that gives the most trouble, since it allows the throttle disc to drag on the bottom of the throat). > Haynes says TESM. Just one of the many misprints in the Haynes, IMO. Both TD and TE needles were used in earlier cars; SM is the recommended replacement for all TR3/A/B. Check page 443 of the Bentley. > Should I be using a richer needle to > compensate for the elevation? If anything, should be leaner for high altitudes, I believe. The correct mixture is determined by the relative mass of oxygen and fuel; while carburetors mix by volume rather than by mass. At high altitudes, the air has less mass per cubic foot. Wouldn't hurt to try a pair of slightly leaner needles (like the SL needles Moss lists); might improve your fuel mileage a bit. But I don't think it would be a big improvement, and it certainly won't hurt anything (except maybe your wallet) to keep your SM needles. > BTW, all this should leave me with a spare pair of Stromberg > 175s should anyone be in need you can contact me off list. No, thanks. Got all I need (besides I prefer HS6). Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 3 23:50:21 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 22:50:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mystery of the week. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080504055022.NJIC20708.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Anyone have any ideas on where my cigar tip have been disappearing to? Likely someone is trying to send you a message about smoking cheap cigars. Randall From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun May 4 07:22:34 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 08:22:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] Team.Net spring fund drive In-Reply-To: <20080504040712.NNRQ28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <481D1683.3030107@bradakis.com> <20080504040712.NNRQ28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: me tooRich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!> From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 21:07:12 -0700> Subject: Re: [TR] Team.Net spring fund drive> > > So > > once or twice a year I ask for funding assistance> > Wow, has it been that long already ? Time really does fly like an arrow> (and fruit flies like a banana).> > Anyhoo, donation on it's way.> > Randall> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Sun May 4 07:27:18 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 08:27:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] Carb Questions In-Reply-To: <002001c8ada8$36feac30$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <000601c8ada2$206ab370$6401a8c0@sniffer> <002001c8ada8$36feac30$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: Did you mean carbiac arrest....Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! > From: wbeech at flash.net> To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 23:32:14 -0600> Subject: Re: [TR] Carb Questions> > I am afraid that would send my poor little beast in cardiac arrest....> > Bill> From racegt6 at yahoo.com Sun May 4 07:28:08 2008 From: racegt6 at yahoo.com (Charlie Schlismann) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 06:28:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Correct yellow zinc calipers In-Reply-To: <481D0F3E.2030302@snet.net> Message-ID: <959945.69066.qm@web30804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > I need to replace my front calipers(16PB) with > either new or rebuilt > units. Does anyone know who supplies them with the > correct yellow zinc > coating rather than painted. Thanks John Mitchell > 76 TR6 John, A few years back, I bought a set (rebuilt?)for our '74 TR6 from Ted Schumacher at TSI. IIRC, they were yellow zinc. HTH, Charlie #71 MiDiv F500 From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun May 4 07:49:46 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 09:49:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 door rubbers Message-ID: <121f01c8aded$b73dbc70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Larry, I have yet to install the door rubbers (permanently). However, in my rubber ordering freenzy, I ordered one from Moss and one from TRF. I remember that one of them was a good bit narrower, and for that reason, I tried them on and agreed. It made quite a difference. Unfortunately, I can't remember which was which. Paul -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 411 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Sun May 4 08:34:27 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 07:34:27 -0700 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [TR] New (to me, at least) online resource Message-ID: <20964105.1209911667645.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Dear Readers, Do The Monster Mash I just found out about a website that will be a real boon to car enthusiasts, while at my friend Brett, who is planing to put new Corvette running gear in his Merkur coupe, he asked me if I had seen: www.jaxed.com It was put together by a Corvair guy and it searches many of the online resources for cars and parts and gives you a list of what is availabe on all lists - Amazing!!! You also can narrow it down by state. Check it out! Get on the sight - and click on the big MASH bar up by the top ......... then your in - have fun Best, Rick Feibusch Venice Beach, Californis From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com Sun May 4 08:42:03 2008 From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 10:42:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Differential Stub Axle Bearings Message-ID: <18807106.1209912123770.JavaMail.root@mswamui-valley.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I am trying to take the bearings off my differential stub axles. Will they pull off in the directions of the splines or do I have to remove the flanges? Thanks for all information. Doug Nelson 74 TR6 ________________________________________ PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com From dkspence at telus.net Sun May 4 09:48:45 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 09:48:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] Mystery of the week. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <576CDF2B-9AF3-4A3F-BB92-A09827091F03@telus.net> It's just the Gods getting revenge for your dumping your dirty stinking butts on their lovely planet. Put your butts in the garbage and your tips will be found. On May 4, 2008, at 7:22 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > From: tom white > Date: May 3, 2008 11:02:35 PM MDT (CA) > To: > Subject: [TR] Mystery of the week. > > > I have been driving my TR3A around So. Ca. for the last week. As > my want > inspires I smoke an occasional cigar while driving. Since I smoke > really > cheap cigars I mount them in a cigar tip while I smoke to prevent > the shedding > of tobacco into my mouth. > > Twice this week I have finished a cigar, deposited the stub outside > of the > car, and then dropped the cigar tip into the map compartment of the > driver's > door. Both times when I have later gone to retrieve the cigar tip > it has been > gone. There are no holes in the map compartment. I have searched > the floor > of the car to no avail. > > Anyone have any ideas on where my cigar tip have been disappearing to? > Thanks. > > Best regards, > Tom > ___ From triosan at gmail.com Sun May 4 10:11:50 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 09:11:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Glass for hardtop In-Reply-To: <481CA429.2000205@earthlink.net> References: <8cbd782d0805031013j4d76a79eif527e6a7767d715e@mail.gmail.com> <481CA429.2000205@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805040911t77cade69u316a57d8978a3544@mail.gmail.com> Joe, You were first to respond. It is a TR6. Make an offer if you want. Shipping from Seattle. Chuck On Sat, May 3, 2008 at 10:43 AM, Joe Burlein wrote: > Chuck, > > What car? If it is for TR6 and in good shape, please, let me know. > > Joe > > > Chuck Arnold wrote: > > > Saw someone indicate a blank shell was available. I have a set of > > windows > > available if anyone is interested. The rear one for sure is no longer > > available. Will be putting them on Ebay soon, so if any one on the > > lists is > > interested let me know. > > > > > > > > -- Chuck Arnold From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun May 4 11:38:04 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 10:38:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Transmission Conversion In-Reply-To: <010101c8aa4b$d50876f0$cc488796@Donner> References: <010101c8aa4b$d50876f0$cc488796@Donner> Message-ID: <9FADE71B75BB466C8DE240BC61F12E60@GeoPC> List members... can you help with the enquiry below? Also (though he didn't ask) what would be prudent to check or possibly replace while all the bits are out? Thanks for any advice. Geo ----- Original Message ----- My question is: I have a very good 4 speed in my 80 Spit. It is currently undergoing restoration #3 and I want to make it an OD car. I bought an OD Tranny with weak first & Second gears.but a good OD. Is the best route to add the OD to my good tranny or take the guts of my good tranny and put them in the OD gearbox housing? I assume the output shaft is the item that must be changed. From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun May 4 12:37:08 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 14:37:08 EDT Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Message-ID: 75teer6 at gmail.com writes: > Has anyone fabricated brackets that mount the Miata Seats on the TR6 > Seat Runners, and have measured drawings to share? > > Henri > 1975 TR5 > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ----------------------------------------- Henri, The design is progressing and expected to be finished next weekend, by Jack Drews (Uncle Jack) Then my son and I are going to look at the design for best manufacturing processes. I think Jack will release a Bracket KIT order based on the level of interest. These will be done on production equipment and likely be ready to ship within 6-8 Weeks. If there is anyone else contemplating a conversion to Miata Seats, let us know. What about in the the Ranks of TR4s and more? Thanks...Uncle Jack & Joe (Team Deere-Retired) From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun May 4 13:20:25 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 15:20:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Transmission Conversion In-Reply-To: <9FADE71B75BB466C8DE240BC61F12E60@GeoPC> References: <010101c8aa4b$d50876f0$cc488796@Donner> Message-ID: <481DD439.2353.2869B140@localhost> On 4 May 2008 at 10:38, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > Is the best route to add the OD to my good tranny or take the guts of my > good tranny and put them in the OD gearbox housing? > > I assume the output shaft is the item that must be changed. A few other things must be changed as well. The driveshaft is shorter. The rear engine mount goes on a horizontal plate that fits tranversely across the frame members; when people pull an OD tranny out of a car this plate is typically forgotten because they don't realize it is different. The speedometer drive is different too, I believe. And the shift knob, of course. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Sun May 4 13:23:32 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 12:23:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Spitfire Transmission Conversion In-Reply-To: <481DD439.2353.2869B140@localhost> References: <010101c8aa4b$d50876f0$cc488796@Donner> <481DD439.2353.2869B140@localhost> Message-ID: <000101c8ae1c$5784fdf0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Don't forget the Main Shaft in the transmission must also be changed. So if you go to all that trouble, it is about six of one and half dozen of the other. Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 12:20 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Spitfire Transmission Conversion On 4 May 2008 at 10:38, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > Is the best route to add the OD to my good tranny or take the guts of my > good tranny and put them in the OD gearbox housing? > > I assume the output shaft is the item that must be changed. A few other things must be changed as well. The driveshaft is shorter. The rear engine mount goes on a horizontal plate that fits tranversely across the frame members; when people pull an OD tranny out of a car this plate is typically forgotten because they don't realize it is different. The speedometer drive is different too, I believe. And the shift knob, of course. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From L1J1S at aol.com Sun May 4 13:35:53 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 15:35:53 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 bonnet dzus fastners Message-ID: list, with respect to the tr3 honnet dzus fastners, is they are way one can prevent the paint from chipping due to the dzus fastners? i have noticed that on many tr3's that after awhile the fastners rattle and causes the paint to chip away? larrry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sun May 4 14:08:16 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 16:08:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car In-Reply-To: <003301c8ad5b$fefd6e30$8215a8c0@garage.local> References: <003301c8ad5b$fefd6e30$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: > An MGB is a chick magnet.> > I know this because my MGB broke down so much I struck up a friendship with> the Counter Girl at the local Foreign Car parts store. We started dating after> she found me the only MGB tag light in North America.> > John H. Oliver asks: > and ?????????? Not sure what you're asking, Oliver. And.... we were together for eight years and.... then she threw me out.... And... it's mildly humorous to refer to a car as a chick magnet because it broke down so much I got to know the Parts Girl well... Not worth a belly laugh or guffaw, but maybe a slight smile or chuckle. And... it's also mildly humorous to me that finding parts for a guy is a way to seduce him... That's all I can think of. Maybe no one here shares my sense of humor! John H. From auprichard at comcast.net Sun May 4 14:10:45 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 16:10:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 bonnet dzus fastners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c8ae22$f093fa90$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> The correct method to affix them is to tighten the aluminum piece down flat, so they shouldn't rattle. Other than that, I don't know what to say. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 3:36 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr3 bonnet dzus fastners list, with respect to the tr3 honnet dzus fastners, is they are way one can prevent the paint from chipping due to the dzus fastners? i have noticed that on many tr3's that after awhile the fastners rattle and causes the paint to chip away? larrry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 4 14:50:09 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 13:50:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080504205010.TMCD28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > That's all I can think of. Maybe no one here shares my sense of humor! I thought it amusing, John. Curious too how you managed to get so lucky ... at all the places I buy car parts, it's only guys behind the counter, and they are almost as ugly as I am. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun May 4 16:01:29 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 18:01:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] installing new SS brake lines Message-ID: <122e01c8ae32$68dfe2c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've just installed the first tube of my new stainless steel braking system. It was an easy piece, (the left rear pipe), and already I have two questions: The line does go inside the rear axle check strap, doesn't it?? Secondly, to aid in lubrication of the sealing surface so as to prevent galling, I merely dipped the line and fitting in brake fluid. Is this alright? When it comes to tightening a line into a brass fitting (such as the 5-way), I think I'll coat it with a touch of anti-seize (where the line's flare is to seat against the 5-way's seat.. does this make sense? Lastly, the list may hate me, but I'm using just Dot 4 b.f. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 411 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun May 4 16:23:45 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 15:23:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <608085.60216.qm@web82808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> but - we're all curious. why did she throw you out? were you heart broken? and where is she now? still behind the same parts counter????? actually, we're writing a book. . . . John Herrera wrote: .hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma } > An MGB is a chick magnet. > > I know this because my MGB broke down so much I struck up a friendship with > the Counter Girl at the local Foreign Car parts store. We started dating after > she found me the only MGB tag light in North America. > > John H. Oliver asks: > and ?????????? Not sure what you're asking, Oliver. And.... we were together for eight years and.... then she threw me out.... And... it's mildly humorous to refer to a car as a chick magnet because it broke down so much I got to know the Parts Girl well... Not worth a belly laugh or guffaw, but maybe a slight smile or chuckle. And... it's also mildly humorous to me that finding parts for a guy is a way to seduce him... That's all I can think of. Maybe no one here shares my sense of humor! John H. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 4 17:13:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 16:13:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] installing new SS brake lines In-Reply-To: <122e01c8ae32$68dfe2c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080504231355.NHLA1070.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > The line does go inside the rear axle check strap, doesn't it?? Yes, and it should also have a funny series of bends right there, so that it crosses under the strap laying right against the little flange on the bottom of the axle (aka spring perch), so the line can't possibly get pinched against the strap. > Secondly, to aid in lubrication of the sealing surface so as > to prevent galling, I merely dipped the line and fitting in > brake fluid. Is this alright? Won't hurt anything, but likely won't help either (since you're using DOT 4). > When it comes to tightening a line into a brass fitting (such > as the 5-way), I think I'll coat it with a touch of > anti-seize (where the line's flare is to seat against the > 5-way's seat.. does this make sense? Bad idea, IMO. On the threads maybe, but not on the flare. > Lastly, the list may hate me, but I'm using just Dot 4 b.f. Well, I suppose there had to be some reason for spending the extra money on stainless lines ... just hope it doesn't leak and ruin your paint. Randall From pryner at verizon.net Sun May 4 17:40:41 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 19:40:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] installing new SS brake lines In-Reply-To: <122e01c8ae32$68dfe2c0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: Paul, AISTR from my jet mechanic days, you never put anti seize on the sealing surface, on the threads. It is very unlikely that the sealing surfaces will seize together. The threads however do tend to gather corrosion, dirt and all sorts of other stuff to cause them to seize. Pete -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 6:01 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] installing new SS brake lines I've just installed the first tube of my new stainless steel braking system. It was an easy piece, (the left rear pipe), and already I have two questions: The line does go inside the rear axle check strap, doesn't it?? Secondly, to aid in lubrication of the sealing surface so as to prevent galling, I merely dipped the line and fitting in brake fluid. Is this alright? When it comes to tightening a line into a brass fitting (such as the 5-way), I think I'll coat it with a touch of anti-seize (where the line's flare is to seat against the 5-way's seat.. does this make sense? Lastly, the list may hate me, but I'm using just Dot 4 b.f. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 From jeffn at msystech.com Sun May 4 18:09:33 2008 From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 20:09:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Coutesy switch References: <20080504205010.TMCD28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <009401c8ae44$4c695600$0201a8c0@mstdevel5> Hello, Has your TR6 courtesy switch that screws on the driver's side door post seen better days? Well, mine "bit the bucket" and the interior light no longer works. As you all know this switch is no longer available and I tried to repair it according to the post at: http://www.cptc.org/tech_tips/Refurbishing%20TR6%20Door%20Switches.pdf . No luck. So, if anyone has has a functional one (for a '72 TR6) to sell, or has a lead where to buy one, can you contact me? Thanks, Jeff N. From DLylis at aol.com Sun May 4 20:45:49 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 22:45:49 EDT Subject: [TR] installing new SS brake lines Message-ID: Now you've got me thinking. All of my hydraulics are drained out and the lines have been hanging on the wall vertically for 6 months or so. What is the next step to flush everything out before switching to silicone (AKA Dot 5)? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun May 4 22:38:04 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 00:38:04 EDT Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker Message-ID: In a message dated 5/2/2008 2:30:38 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: tolerance, my friend. Does this make us bi-lbcual? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 4 23:15:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 22:15:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] installing new SS brake lines In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080505051530.BPNC19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Now you've got me thinking. All of my hydraulics are drained > out and the lines have been hanging on the wall vertically > for 6 months or so. What is the next step to flush > everything out before switching to silicone (AKA Dot 5)? My opinion : nothing. Put it together, fill it, bleed it, use it. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 4 23:18:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 22:18:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080505051859.CCI720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does this make us bi-lbcual? Isn't that illegal in Texas ? Randall (ex-Texan) From mdporter at dfn.com Sun May 4 23:21:08 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 23:21:08 -0600 Subject: [TR] Blank Window Sticker In-Reply-To: <20080505051859.CCI720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080505051859.CCI720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <481E9944.2080308@dfn.com> Randall wrote: >> Does this make us bi-lbcual? >> > > Isn't that illegal in Texas ? > > Randall (ex-Texan) > After the last Supreme Court ruling, only if it involves sexual aids.... :) Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From wbeech at flash.net Sun May 4 23:34:44 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 23:34:44 -0600 Subject: [TR] tr3 bonnet dzus fastners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003301c8ae71$ba9ae530$6401a8c0@sniffer> I was wondering the same thing, has anyone tried to put a thin fibre washer behind the head when installing these? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 1:36 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr3 bonnet dzus fastners list, with respect to the tr3 honnet dzus fastners, is they are way one can prevent the paint from chipping due to the dzus fastners? i have noticed that on many tr3's that after awhile the fastners rattle and causes the paint to chip away? larrry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Mon May 5 04:50:58 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 06:50:58 EDT Subject: [TR] installing new SS brake lines Message-ID: Thanks all. I was not sure if the DOT 4 left some sort of residue that needed removal. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From tfansher at comcast.net Mon May 5 06:35:43 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:35:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] installing new SS brake lines References: Message-ID: <001701c8aeac$89c29da0$39f45444@DCS78M81> When I did the conversion the first time it was where you are now and I had no problems. Four years ago I had the brake master cylinder go out on the Stag at the SE Regional at Jekyll Island. I sourced a new master from Arizona and had it next day aired to me, had it installed and bled Dot 5 through the system that had previously had DOt 4 and have had no problems. Brakes are good and no leaks, etc. In my opinion, go for it ........ Again, my lines leaked so much EVERYWHERE when I installed the new lines that I would have totally ruined the new paint job and that would have really sucked. Tom Subject: Re: [TR] installing new SS brake lines > Now you've got me thinking. All of my hydraulics are drained out and the > lines have been hanging on the wall vertically for 6 months or so. What > is the > next step to flush everything out before switching to silicone (AKA Dot > 5)? > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From adcronin at ameritech.net Mon May 5 06:48:55 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 05:48:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr3 bonnet dzus fastners Message-ID: <989113.20065.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> You may find a very thin nylon (or similar) washer at your local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section that will fit under or be able to be trimmed to size, but it needs to be very thin. Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: wbeech To: L1J1S at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, May 5, 2008 1:34:44 AM Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 bonnet dzus fastners I was wondering the same thing, has anyone tried to put a thin fibre washer behind the head when installing these? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of L1J1S at aol.com Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 1:36 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] tr3 bonnet dzus fastners list, with respect to the tr3 honnet dzus fastners, is they are way one can prevent the paint from chipping due to the dzus fastners? i have noticed that on many tr3's that after awhile the fastners rattle and causes the paint to chip away? larrry schwartz 1960 tr3-a **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From ggelhar at earthlink.net Mon May 5 06:54:34 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 07:54:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! Message-ID: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net> I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the distant past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection to eliminate this problem. His technique was to remove the air cleaner assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. The premise was the steam generated by the water would clear the carbon from the piston tops. The amount of water was regulated as to not stall the engine. He reported that after this treatment the run-on problems were gone. Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions? Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . > Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! > > I had engine run-on issues prior to my restoration project, so while the engine was on the stand, I pulled the head to look for carbon deposits on top of the pistons. I found significant deposits on five of the six. I used to run an external oil feed but stopped after going through oil at a fast rate (ring problem?). When I removed the oil feed, oil consumption was greatly reduced but my run on problem was present. What remedy do I have available to a) clean the pistons and b) prevent the problem from happening again. I'm assuming that if my engine is put together and broken in correctly, the external oil feed should not contribute to additional oil consumption. BTW, the engine was rebuilt in late 2005 with new pistons, rings, bearings, etc for .030 over bore. > Thanks in advance for advice you can share. > Andy From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon May 5 07:01:27 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 09:01:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] A movie NOT for Triumph fans - Message-ID: <380-2200851513127745@M2W016.mail2web.com> (Disclaimer, the following story may contain objectionable descriptions and or material , that may not be suitable for some readers. Viewer discretion is strongly advised! :-}) Listers - My wife and I went to our usual Saturday afternoon movie, and as it was her turn to pick what we would see, she decided upon the movie Made of Honor. Now I knew it would probably this selection (I of course would have picked Iron Man). At any rate I was fully prepared for a light fluff of a romantic comedy. It was progressing pretty much as expected, until almost at the end, and I wont go into the whole movie, but suffice it to say there was a scene where one of the main characters was participating in some sort of Scottish (they were in Scotland at this point) contest to prove eligibility of marriage thing. One of the events was to launch, the equivalent of a telephone pole by cradling it in your hands, (yeah, I know I didnt write the script) as far as one could. Needless to say, he was having a bit of trouble controlling his projectile, and finally, launched it uponA TRIUMPH STAG, parked on the sidelines! Not thinking, but reacting out of pure shock, I blurted out, probably a little too loudly, Hey...THEY JUST TRASHED A STAG! Then of course, I felt a little embarrassed, since surely nobody in the audience even knew what a Triumph Stag was. Now I have to admit, I am still a little upset at the choice of automobile used to destroy. It had no connection to the movie, the plot, characters, or even country of origin. Any vehicle could have been used to convey this sort of humor but why take a relatively rare and somewhat valuable, basically irreplaceable vehicle, and destroy it. Needless to say, it colored my feelings of the movie and I couldn't really concentrate on the rest of the film. It basically ruined an otherwise O.K. movie, and I walked away mildly disgusted with the whole thing. Now this may seem a little harsh - but I just can't get over destroying a really nice Triumph, for basically nothing - I give it a hearty two thumbs down!!! Some things I just dont understandand probably never will Barry Schwartz San Diego, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web LIVE  Free email based on Microsoft. Exchange technology - http://link.mail2web.com/LIVE From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon May 5 07:11:23 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 09:11:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! References: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00a901c8aeb1$8539a0d0$3f137247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Better idea is to adjust your carb and get the richness out of there. "FT" ============================================================================================= ----- Original Message ----- From: "Greg Gelhar" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "triumphs" Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:54 AM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! >I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the distant > past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection to > eliminate this problem. His technique was to remove the air cleaner > assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the > carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. The premise was the > steam generated by the water would clear the carbon from the piston tops. > The amount of water was regulated as to not stall the engine. He reported > that after this treatment the run-on problems were gone. > > Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions? > > Greg Gelhar > 1973 TR6 > 1980 TR8 > Osseo, MN . > > >> Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! >> >> I had engine run-on issues prior to my restoration project, so while the > engine was on the stand, I pulled the head to look for carbon deposits on > top of the pistons. I found significant deposits on five of the six. I > used to run an external oil feed but stopped after going through oil at a > fast rate (ring problem?). When I removed the oil feed, oil consumption > was greatly reduced but my run on problem was present. What remedy do I > have available to a) clean the pistons and b) prevent the problem from > happening again. I'm assuming that if my engine is put together and > broken > in correctly, the external oil feed should not contribute to additional > oil > consumption. BTW, the engine was rebuilt in late 2005 with new pistons, > rings, bearings, etc for .030 over bore. >> Thanks in advance for advice you can share. >> Andy > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From steven at newellboys.net Mon May 5 08:23:14 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 08:23:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net> References: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <481F1852.9030900@newellboys.net> Greg Gelhar wrote: >I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the distant >past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection to >eliminate this problem. His technique was to remove the air cleaner >assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the >carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. The premise was the >steam generated by the water would clear the carbon from the piston tops. >The amount of water was regulated as to not stall the engine. He reported >that after this treatment the run-on problems were gone. > >Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions? > Greg, first time I read your description I was thinking "garden hose" and I was a little alarmed. :) I've heard of the same approach and I don't think there's much harm that can come from a using a misting spray bottle to decoke your engine. Moisture can cause your carb pistons to seize (at least that's what happened when I went splashing through a big puddle in my TR4) so double check before you put the filters back on. There are some commercial spray treatments designed to do clean combustion chambers too; water is surely less environmentally harmful than the stuff my neighbor's kid runs through his Camero every few months. That stuff, Sea Foam, you don't want to be downwind when he's running it through. NFI, http://www.seafoamsales.com Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 '87 BMW x 3 From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Mon May 5 08:34:05 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 07:34:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] A movie NOT for Triumph fans - In-Reply-To: <380-2200851513127745@M2W016.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <833530.14532.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> --- "v6spitfireguy at cox.net" wrote: > -EDIT-I wont go into the whole movie, but suffice it to say > there was a scene where one of the main characters was participating in > some sort of Scottish (they were in Scotland at this point) contest to > prove eligibility of marriage thing. One of the events was to launch, the > equivalent of a telephone pole by cradling it in your hands, (yeah, I know > I didn't write the script) as far as one could. -EDIT- I won't comment on the rest, but I will say that this is an actual contest in Scotland, known as 'tossing the caber' And my reaction (and especially my wife's, since she owns a Stag) would have been exactly the same! Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" Little Rock, AR Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon May 5 08:35:44 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:35:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suspension stability. Message-ID: I recall a couple of the listers race TRs. I have a TR3A with TR4 upper a-arms, ball joints, trunions, and a sway bar. I am running stock springs with Konis. Can any of you say how fast the car can go and remain stable? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack 1. http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon May 5 08:37:28 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:37:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Will Miata seats fit in a TR3A? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get Free (PRODUCT) RED Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon May 5 08:44:40 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:44:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car In-Reply-To: <608085.60216.qm@web82808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <608085.60216.qm@web82808.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My ex-wife got pregnant in a TR3A. Cutest little shift lever you have ever seen. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get Free (PRODUCT) RED Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008 From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon May 5 08:44:39 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 10:44:39 EDT Subject: [TR] A movie NOT for Triumph fans - Message-ID: In a message dated 5/5/2008 6:02:30 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, v6spitfireguy at cox.net writes: Not thinking, but reacting out of pure shock, I blurted out, probably a little too loudly, Hey...THEY JUST TRASHED A STAG! Barry, Don't feel that you're alone on this one! We recently got back from a really great tour of western and northern France with our small town's only travel agency. During one of the daily bus excursions to see what seemed like a endless number of ancient castles and Troglodyte caves and while gazing out at the vastness of farmland, I blurted out:"wow - look at that Herald - wait, there's a Healey next to it, too!" My wife was dozing at the time and most of the blue haired ladies were fast asleep so I don't think anyone even heard me which is probably a good thing:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From FGFO1 at aol.com Mon May 5 08:50:53 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 10:50:53 EDT Subject: [TR] tr4 gearbox problem Message-ID: this is a friends problem. Any one have any thoughts? Hi Guys, As I expect you know, my brother Dave and I recently almost finished an 18 month long body off restoration of our 64 TR4 (CT28726LO). After all was together, we drove to the local muffler shop and when the car was quiet enough to hear everything, we got sad. The trans sounded like a washing machine in third and fourth gear in the brief moment between acceleration and deceleration in each gear. We were able to disassemble, repair (we thought), and reassemble the trans. We were told that the trans was rebuilt in 1985 just before the car was dissembled and stored. On inspecting the trans through the top cover before we installed it, everything looked OK and the syncros looked, and were, brand new. On disassembling the trans, we found that the mainshaft spigot bearing was seized. We replaced it (Moss 848-610), and the two countershaft be arings (848-640), and the input shaft big bearing (525-030), clips and washer. It looked like all the syncros and washers were new, so we didn't replace them. The OD worked on our test drive to and from the muffler shop, so we didn't disassemble it. We also micro'd the mainshaft, the input shaft, and the counter shaft. Each was ok and there was no scarring. We reassembled the trans, installed it, and it made the same rattle/grind noise between the acceleration/deceleration/acceleration in third gear and in fourth gear. Any thoughts on what the problem might be? ill pass along any thoughts you may share thanks Frank Fisher **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon May 5 08:52:04 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 10:52:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Message-ID: <6AABCB30.21BA0D5A.00159EE9@cs.com> aha! good timing. we hear from mr. cronin that it has been done the the UK. he also reports that it may require reversing the locations of the seats. he would like to this and we have put his name on the list at the moment it appears that the kit (rh & lh) would likely follow the seats, but this has not been fully explored and proven. Miata seats in a TR3! comfort and style...and affordable. would you like your name on the list? uncle jack & joe > >Will Miata seats fit in a TR3A? > >Best regards, >Tom > > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Get Free (PRODUCT) REDb" B Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. >http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008= From mathews at uga.edu Mon May 5 08:54:04 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 10:54:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suspension stability. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080505145339.BDA03187A1D@autox.team.net> Back when I was a teenager...gosh, only yesterday, and had a new 63TR3B, I thought is felt a tad light at about 110! Doug At 10:35 AM 5/5/2008, tom white wrote: >I recall a couple of the listers race TRs. I have a TR3A with TR4 upper >a-arms, ball joints, trunions, and a sway bar. I am running stock springs >with Konis. From banc8004 at comcast.net Mon May 5 08:59:00 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 14:59:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Dzus washers to prevent chipping Message-ID: <050520081459.19580.481F20B40000783400004C7C2200750784CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> Nylon washers is a good idea. You could quickly make some, at the size needed, from a used milk container....or similar. Brian From banc8004 at comcast.net Mon May 5 09:07:25 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 15:07:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] A movie Not for Triumph fans Message-ID: <050520081507.3453.481F22AD000B470100000D7D2200750784CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> The gentleman in question was tossing the caber. The challenge is to turn it over and have it land in the 12'oclock position. Its the only throwing event I can think of where there is no defined target, and distance is irrelevant. Here's and example.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujpfCRpqkFs Shame about the stag.... Brian TR4 1963 CT14455 L From emanteno at comcast.net Mon May 5 09:17:36 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 15:17:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suspension stability. Message-ID: <050520081517.16061.481F251000049C9F00003EBD2200735446970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: tom white > I recall a couple of the listers race TRs. I have a TR3A with TR4 upper > a-arms, ball joints, trunions, and a sway bar. I am running stock springs > with Konis. > > Can any of you say how fast the car can go and remain stable? My TR4 vintage race car, as above but with stiffer springs and front sway bar, felt very stable at the 120 I was able to reach at Road America. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon May 5 09:25:27 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:25:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Pictures Message-ID: In case anyone is curious, I returned from the VARA races and car show at Buttonwillow, CA, and posted the pictures I took. I also posted the pictures I took in 2007 and 2006. I tried to photograph all of the Triumphs that I saw. Some may be on this list. If I missed you, I apologize. The link is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/ Just click on the Buttonwillow set. I also have some pictures of TR2's in the TR2 set, including my signal red longdoor. Enjoy! David Gunn 1954 TR2 TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack 1. http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon May 5 09:28:54 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 10:28:54 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Message-ID: Not all Miata seats are the same. There have been three, soon to be four, versions of the Miata. It will pay to notice which version the people are discussing. I have hear of several people puting the early version in MGBs.Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!> Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 10:52:04 -0400> From: N197TR4 at cs.com> To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com; 75teer6 at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net> CC: seanax at iowalaser.com; vinttr4 at geneseo.net> Subject: Re: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase> > aha! good timing.> > we hear from mr. cronin that it has been done the the UK. he also reports that it may require reversing the locations of the seats.> > he would like to this and we have put his name on the list> > at the moment it appears that the kit (rh & lh) would likely follow the seats, but this has not been fully explored and proven.> > Miata seats in a TR3! comfort and style...and affordable.> > would you like your name on the list?> > uncle jack & joe > > >> >Will Miata seats fit in a TR3A?> >> >Best regards,> >Tom> >> >> >> >_________________________________________________________________> >Get Free (PRODUCT) REDb' B Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.> >http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008=> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 5 09:42:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:42:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase In-Reply-To: <6AABCB30.21BA0D5A.00159EE9@cs.com> Message-ID: <20080505154212.EXXX28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Miata seats in a TR3! comfort and style...and affordable. > > would you like your name on the list? Sure, put my name on; since I already plan to use Miata seats in my new project TR3. But, as has already been pointed out, there are several versions of Miata seat just in the US. I opted for the early version, since I also want the headrest speakers. Do we know which ones Mr Cronin used ? Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 5 09:54:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:54:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080505155417.FFWB28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions? It does work, at least to some extent, and has been around for a long, long time (longer than I have). But the real "old time" mechanics didn't bother with sissy garden sprayers, they just slowly (!) poured from a cup right into the intake. Personally, I would rather just go find a back road and run it at full output for awhile, which will also help clean out combustion chamber deposits (assuming it's now running cleanly). Randall From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu Mon May 5 10:06:23 2008 From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 09:06:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Southern California Triumph Spotting..... Message-ID: <481F307F.5000901@mrl.ucsb.edu> Hey, Folks, I saw some interesting Triumphs while out and about this weekend and was curious if they belonged to any list members. I was participating in an event hosted by the San Diego yacht club this weekend, and while there I saw some pretty TRs the club's lot. On Saturday there was a shiny red TR4, and on Sunday there was a gorgeous, 'original patina' powder blue TR3. On the way home to Santa Barbara Sunday evening, I saw somewhere on the 405 freeway in L.A. someone towing home what appeared to be a Triumph Herald convertible. With the exception of a couple of TR6s, those three Triumphs over the weekend were more than I've seen in the previous few months! Once thick on the ground, these ol' Triumphs are getting scarce. -jeffrey '62 TR4 From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon May 5 13:09:10 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 12:09:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Coutesy switch (Jeff Nathanson) References: Message-ID: <007901c8aee3$801554f0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Moss Motors catalog does show door switches in their catalog, electrical section. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=switch&WebCatalogID=12 Regards, Bob From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon May 5 10:27:45 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 12:27:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: <481F1852.9030900@newellboys.net> References: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <481EFD41.15069.3286893@localhost> > first time I read your description I was thinking "garden hose" > and I was a little alarmed. :) Be advised that water is incompressible, so it raises the compression ratio (and lowers the temperature of the incoming air). If you get too much liquid water at once it could be do seriously unpleasant things. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon May 5 10:27:45 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 12:27:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suspension stability. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <481EFD41.11055.3286826@localhost> On 5 May 2008 at 14:35, tom white wrote: > Can any of you say how fast the car can go and remain stable? An upper limit is surely the speed of light. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mmarr at notwires.com Mon May 5 10:28:01 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 11:28:01 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! References: <20080505155417.FFWB28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <006701c8aecc$fed8ed90$6bbec963@mikeslaptop> Back in the day, back home in England, we used to pour a product called RedEx (an upper cylinder lubricant) into the carb for the same effect. If you google Redex you will find a lot of discussion in English car maintenance forums relating to its efficacy. Mike > It does work, at least to some extent, and has been around for a long, > long > time (longer than I have). But the real "old time" mechanics didn't > bother > with sissy garden sprayers, they just slowly (!) poured from a cup right > into the intake. > > Personally, I would rather just go find a back road and run it at full > output for awhile, which will also help clean out combustion chamber > deposits (assuming it's now running cleanly). > > Randall From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Mon May 5 10:42:03 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 12:42:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! References: <20080505155417.FFWB28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> <006701c8aecc$fed8ed90$6bbec963@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: <01cb01c8aece$f3029d70$3f137247@fred8kwiskhcfu> I also remember "Coke Cola" being used for this. "FT" ===================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Marr" To: "Randall" ; "'triumphs'" Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 12:28 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! > Back in the day, back home in England, we used to pour a product called > RedEx (an upper cylinder lubricant) into the carb for the same effect. If > you google Redex you will find a lot of discussion in English car > maintenance forums relating to its efficacy. > > Mike > >> It does work, at least to some extent, and has been around for a long, >> long >> time (longer than I have). But the real "old time" mechanics didn't >> bother >> with sissy garden sprayers, they just slowly (!) poured from a cup right >> into the intake. >> >> Personally, I would rather just go find a back road and run it at full >> output for awhile, which will also help clean out combustion chamber >> deposits (assuming it's now running cleanly). >> >> Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From flashtr3 at cox.net Mon May 5 10:45:52 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 09:45:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Pictures References: Message-ID: <000901c8aecf$7b96c1c0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Thanks for sharing...did the Triumphs win the "Challenge"? Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: David Gunn To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:25 AM Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Pictures In case anyone is curious, I returned from the VARA races and car show at Buttonwillow, CA, and posted the pictures I took. I also posted the pictures I took in 2007 and 2006. I tried to photograph all of the Triumphs that I saw. Some may be on this list. If I missed you, I apologize. The link is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/ Just click on the Buttonwillow set. I also have some pictures of TR2's in the TR2 set, including my signal red longdoor. Enjoy! David Gunn 1954 TR2 TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack 1. http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon May 5 10:46:17 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 12:46:17 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! Message-ID: In a message dated 5/5/2008 8:55:11 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: It does work, at least to some extent, and has been around for a long, long time (longer than I have). But the real "old time" mechanics didn't bother with sissy garden sprayers, they just slowly (!) poured from a cup right into the intake. Personally, I would rather just go find a back road and run it at full output for awhile, which will also help clean out combustion chamber deposits (assuming it's now running cleanly). Randall I have noticed over the years replacing blown head gaskets on Stags and XJ6's how very cleanthepsiton tops are on the affected cylinders. I also have some redex and they do recommend spraying it into the intake. Looks like strawberry soda pop. Mike Moore **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From cak at dimebank.com Mon May 5 10:59:47 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 09:59:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] nicely written GT6 piece Message-ID: <200805051659.m45Gxlp5001160@moose.dimebank.com> http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/main.jhtml?xml=/motoring/2008/05/03/mftarga103.xml From grandfatherjim at gmail.com Mon May 5 11:53:10 2008 From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 13:53:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Message-ID: Hi Joe, I have a set of Miata seats to put into my 3a, and would be thrilled to have a pre-fabbed way of doing it. Please put me on your list, if you have one, Thanks, Jim Wallace PS In doing a trial placement, they will need to be something like 1 1/2" up from the floow, in order to gain enough width at the transmission tunnel. For sure the attached-to-the-seat female end for the seatbelts had to go for teh same reason. ========================= Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Henri, The design is progressing and expected to be finished next weekend, by Jack Drews (Uncle Jack) Then my son and I are going to look at the design for best manufacturing processes. I think Jack will release a Bracket KIT order based on the level of interest. These will be done on production equipment and likely be ready to ship within 6-8 Weeks. If there is anyone else contemplating a conversion to Miata Seats, let us know. What about in the the Ranks of TR4s and more? Thanks...Uncle Jack & Joe (Team Deere-Retired) From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Mon May 5 11:53:44 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 10:53:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Pictures In-Reply-To: <000901c8aecf$7b96c1c0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <000901c8aecf$7b96c1c0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: The Triumph Spitfire, #892, won the first, and came in second on another. Both races were against a Sprite, and were very good. One of my last photos shows them rounding the final turn before the checkered flag. Of course, the inside front wheels were off the ground!! David From: flashtr3 at cox.netTo: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.netSubject: Re: [TR] Buttonwillow PicturesDate: Mon, 5 May 2008 09:45:52 -0700 Thanks for sharing...did the Triumphs win the "Challenge"? Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: David Gunn To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:25 AM Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Pictures In case anyone is curious, I returned from the VARA races and car show atButtonwillow, CA, and posted the pictures I took. I also posted the picturesI took in 2007 and 2006.I tried to photograph all of the Triumphs that I saw. Some may be on thislist. If I missed you, I apologize.The link is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/Just click on the Buttonwillow set. I also have some pictures of TR2's in theTR2 set, including my signal red longdoor.Enjoy!David Gunn1954 TR2 TS3388LChico, CA_________________________________________________________________Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack1.http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner_________ ______________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlThis list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Registerhttp://www.vtr.orgTriumphs at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailma n/listinfo/triumphsYou are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.nethttp://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ messenger_052008 From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon May 5 12:11:13 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:11:13 EDT Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Message-ID: Hi "PaPa" Jim....apparently you have achieved a new status in life. The TR2/3 conversion is unknown at this time, but you will go on the list for further information. Someone may be needed for trial installation. Uncle Jack & Joe > Hi Joe, > I have a set of Miata seats to put into my 3a, and would be thrilled to have > a pre-fabbed way of doing it. > Please put me on your list, if you have one, > Thanks, > Jim Wallace > > PS In doing a trial placement, they will need to be something like 1 1/2" up > from the floow, in order to gain enough width at the transmission tunnel. > For sure the attached-to-the-seat female end for the seatbelts had to go for > teh same reason. > > From adcronin at ameritech.net Mon May 5 13:25:19 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 12:25:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Message-ID: <412887.32006.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Refer to Roger Williams book " How to Improve Triumph TR2-4A pages 136 and 137. There are photos and some written instructions there. Dan Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: tom white To: n197tr4 at cs.com; 75teer6 at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: seanax at iowalaser.com; vinttr4 at geneseo.net Sent: Monday, May 5, 2008 10:37:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Will Miata seats fit in a TR3A? Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get Free (PRODUCT) RED Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From adcronin at ameritech.net Mon May 5 13:31:30 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 12:31:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase Message-ID: <895869.56922.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Same as yours Randal, early style. Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: Randall To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, May 5, 2008 11:42:11 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase > Miata seats in a TR3! comfort and style...and affordable. > > would you like your name on the list? Sure, put my name on; since I already plan to use Miata seats in my new project TR3. But, as has already been pointed out, there are several versions of Miata seat just in the US. I opted for the early version, since I also want the headrest speakers. Do we know which ones Mr Cronin used ? Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From banc8004 at comcast.net Mon May 5 14:26:31 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 16:26:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! Message-ID: I also remember "Coke Cola" being used for this. "FT" So that's a bit like homeopathy...put Coke in to get the coke out.... Brian From BearTranserv at aol.com Mon May 5 14:52:08 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 16:52:08 EDT Subject: [TR] A movie NOT for Triumph fans - Message-ID: Chances are, it was a parts car type of Stag with a new paint job, or a decent Stag they restored for the owner after trashing it. Several years ago I was excited to see the cars used in the Dick Tracy movie....they looked really cool from 50 feet, but up close, they were a stripped shell with a paint job and stick on plastic chrome. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 5/5/2008 8:34:45 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, iron_horse819 at yahoo.com writes: And my reaction (and especially my wife's, since she owns a Stag) would have been exactly the same! **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From ray at raysmg.com Mon May 5 15:21:20 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 14:21:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Pictures Message-ID: <20080505142120.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.2b6fb462bf.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Thanks for posting the link...included is the first photo I've seen of the '60 Bugeye I sold last summer to a nice lady in California that "wanted to go racing"! Looks like she made it! (photo 2467085622_51991e4c82.jpg) Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [TR] Buttonwillow Pictures From: David Gunn Date: Mon, May 05, 2008 11:25 am To: In case anyone is curious, I returned from the VARA races and car show at Buttonwillow, CA, and posted the pictures I took. I also posted the pictures I took in 2007 and 2006. I tried to photograph all of the Triumphs that I saw. Some may be on this list. If I missed you, I apologize. The link is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/ Just click on the Buttonwillow set. I also have some pictures of TR2's in the TR2 set, including my signal red longdoor. Enjoy! David Gunn 1954 TR2 TS3388L Chico, CA From terryrs at comcast.net Mon May 5 17:01:25 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 23:01:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A Engine Miss Message-ID: <050520082301.2654.481F91C50004A27300000A5E22165514069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Drove the 3 to work in Concord for the first time today. Officially topdown til snowfall. Driving back, it had moments of running rough. Then it would smooth out. Two miles out from home, it ran rough to the driveway, then like the old horse I grew up with on the farm, ran smooth when it hit the gate to the pasture. Popped the hood, started checking the ignition cables. One was hanging loose on the spark plug. The screw on nipple from the spark plug had come completely unscrewed, despite that it was still held fast in the spark plug wire. It'll probably run with more power when it's got four cylinders, you think? One and a half minutes from hood pop to hood drop. Problem banished to Sing Sing. New record! Terry ('59 TR3A) New Hampshire. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Mon May 5 17:28:49 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 19:28:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suspension stability. References: <481EFD41.11055.3286826@localhost> Message-ID: <008501c8af07$c5e7e500$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> But the car will be so short, can you be sure it will stable at that speed? (and I think it will weigh a lot too, so the tires might be questionable at that speed/weight combination!). The good news is that there aren't too many speed traps that can measure that kind of speed .... are you planning on using the MkI or II improbability drive? ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 12:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Suspension stability. > On 5 May 2008 at 14:35, tom white wrote: > >> Can any of you say how fast the car can go and remain stable? > > An upper limit is surely the speed of light. > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon May 5 21:22:31 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 20:22:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon/run-on/octane rating References: <4809-481F9716-942@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <006601c8af28$6baad6d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> I had a run-on problem and started using premium gas. Run-on went away. Car is a '71. I have not checked the compression and I don't know if there is any carbon buildup on the pistons. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: Cc: "triumphs" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 4:24 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! > Greg----I have also read at least one article about the results of > "steam cleaning" the combustion area. Since I already have a working > water injection system, I gave it a try. I was already going to do a > rebore, so any damage that might have resulted from breaking loose the > carbon could be later dealt with. > A mixture of soapy water and isopropyl alcohol was run thru the intake > manifold until the pump had emptied two quarts of water. (About 5 > minutes with my injection nozzle) This with an engine speed of around > 2,000rpm. Lots of dirty water came out the exhaust pipes, but when > later removing the head, found the piston tops to be firmly holding onto > elixar of carbon. > > The only way I would now believe this process to work would be to see a > "before and after" look at this area. > > I will admit that I never did have a run-on issue, so it could be that > this process could remove some sharp corners that were holding carbon. > So far as cleaning off the pistons tops...nope! > > Dick > > Greg wrote: > I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the > distant past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection > to eliminate this problem. His technique was to remove the air cleaner > assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the > carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. The premise was > the steam generated by the water would clear the carbon from the piston > tops. The amount of water was regulated as to not stall the engine. He > reported that after this treatment the run-on problems were gone. > > Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions? > Greg Gelhar > 1973 TR6 > ______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From supertr6 at earthlink.net Mon May 5 18:27:10 2008 From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 20:27:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon/run-on/octane rating In-Reply-To: <006601c8af28$6baad6d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <4809-481F9716-942@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> <006601c8af28$6baad6d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <481FA5DE.2040904@earthlink.net> If I remember correctly the early cars required 100 RON. That equates to about 94ish (R+W)/2 here in the States. Joe 72 TR-6 Bob wrote: > I had a run-on problem and started using premium gas. > Run-on went away. Car is a '71. I have not checked the compression and I > don't know if there is any carbon buildup on the pistons. > Regards, > Bob > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" > To: > Cc: "triumphs" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 4:24 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! > > > >> Greg----I have also read at least one article about the results of >> "steam cleaning" the combustion area. Since I already have a working >> water injection system, I gave it a try. I was already going to do a >> rebore, so any damage that might have resulted from breaking loose the >> carbon could be later dealt with. >> A mixture of soapy water and isopropyl alcohol was run thru the intake >> manifold until the pump had emptied two quarts of water. (About 5 >> minutes with my injection nozzle) This with an engine speed of around >> 2,000rpm. Lots of dirty water came out the exhaust pipes, but when >> later removing the head, found the piston tops to be firmly holding onto >> elixar of carbon. >> >> The only way I would now believe this process to work would be to see a >> "before and after" look at this area. >> >> I will admit that I never did have a run-on issue, so it could be that >> this process could remove some sharp corners that were holding carbon. >> So far as cleaning off the pistons tops...nope! >> >> Dick >> >> Greg wrote: >> I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the >> distant past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection >> to eliminate this problem. His technique was to remove the air cleaner >> assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the >> carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. The premise was >> the steam generated by the water would clear the carbon from the piston >> tops. The amount of water was regulated as to not stall the engine. He >> reported that after this treatment the run-on problems were gone. >> >> Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions? >> Greg Gelhar >> 1973 TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon May 5 18:54:45 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 20:54:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts Message-ID: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc> OK... I'm trying to get the back up lights to work with the Toyota 5 speed. The tranny has 2 contacts, the TR6 has 2 leads (G & G/N). G is switched hot and G/N goes to back up lights. Connect it all up, put it in reverse, turn on the key and nada. Continuity test on switch is good. Voltage test on leads shows power. Decide to connect G & G/N together to see if lights come on. What comes on is the right side back up light and the right side brake light. Go back to hooking it to switch and nothing again. After way more time than I care to admit, I finally figured it out. Can you or am I the only dummy? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From fishplate at charter.net Mon May 5 19:34:23 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 21:34:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net> References: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080506013723.OAQJ4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 08:54 AM 5/5/2008, you wrote: > His technique was to remove the air cleaner >assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the >carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. I've heard of the water trick...Back in the day, we used to dribble automatic transmission fluid down the carb to solve similar problems. Wonderfully thick clouds of smoke ensued. More recently (late 70s) when I was a Schmieraffe at a VW dealer, we used to use Army surplus gun-cleaning fluid to solve single-cylinder low compression problems in water-cooled cars. If you had three good and one around 80 or so, you would disconnect the coil and put a squirt of fluid in that cylinder, then turn the engine over for a minute or so. 90% of the time, it would come right up near the rest. Of course, I wouldn't recommend ~any~ of these tricks today. Plenty of things to go wrong, and it's a lot harder to fix when it does. I do recall an approved method of decoking with a wooden scraper on the pistons in situ. YMMV... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From DLylis at aol.com Mon May 5 19:42:12 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 21:42:12 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts Message-ID: Ummm. . I got it! Drive only in the daytime? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon May 5 19:45:30 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 21:45:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] SS fitting behavior? Message-ID: <129501c8af1a$de7be090$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I have installed several lines of my new SS pre-bent brake lines, I did so while putting little plastic bags w/ rubber bands fastened over the pre-flared ends so as to keep them clean. I only have hooked up one fitting as of yet. This particular fitting was under the car requiring me to reach it from a difficult position. Even though I hadn't yet started 'sealing/seating' the SS flares', I decided to go ahead and officially tighten this one completely because it would be hard to get to a second time. So I lubricated the fitting with brake fluid and commenced tightening it carefully. I have been known to overtighten things from time to time, but, everyone said SS required 'tightening the jeepers' at the fittings to make it seat. At what I thought constituted 'the jeepers', the nut seemed to 'give way' the last quarter (or less)of a turn. Of course any time that happens, you immediatly quit. Now it's possible from my strained position that: 1. the wrench slipped it's grip 2. some metal somewhere was roughed up 3. some threads somewhere were stripped, or maybe another possibility is that this is the correct behavior of SS flares when they finally seat. I hope that this is the case, could someone tell me? Also, what will happen if a line 'galls'? What should I do if this occurs? I have considered using another lubricant besides brake fluid, a paste type sealant but only on the flares at the brass 3-way or 5-way to prevent 'galling'. If so, none will be allowed to contact the brake fluid lines. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 411 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Mon May 5 19:50:20 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 21:50:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauge Lights Message-ID: <001d01c8af1b$8adee3a0$394c3b47@Scott> I am starting to lay out my new (bought 4 years ago) wiring harness for my '59 TR3A. It is from British Wiring, which is now owned by Matt Bakes, Triumph Rescue. What I cannot figure out is the wiring for the Speedo and Tach lights, the two warning lights and the two panel lights. On the wiring diagram, these are all basically run in a series with the red/white wire. The harness has one R/W wire in the dash cluster. I have the original bulb sockets, but at least for the speedometer and tach, there is no way to put in a new wire and there is no wire to run the series from one bulb to the next. Has anyone done this and if so, what am I missing? I spoke to Josh at BW and he wasn't sure and was going to touch base with Matt. I spoke a bit with Matt about this a few weeks ago but he wasn't sure either. Moss shows the sockets for the gauges are available as well as the warning lights, but do they come with the wiring in series or are they just the sockets, and if so, then how are you supposed to wire these? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From DLylis at aol.com Mon May 5 20:00:37 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 22:00:37 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! Message-ID: Years ago I had an experience that would deter me from ever trying this. I had an early SAAB Turbo maybe 81 as I recall, and in the early years the snout for the air cleaner pointed down in an attempt to draw cooler air. Well, I was living on Cape Cod at the time in Pocasset and there was (is) a roadway that went under a railroad bridge and in order for the road to do so it dipped down considerably under the bridge and came up on the other side. One night as I was leaving my favorite bar in a horrendous downpour I drove under this bridge with the wipers going fast and squinting ahead to see the road. The drain under the railroad bridge plugged up with junk and a reasonable pond had formed. I got out and surveyed the water and decided it was ok to drive through. It wasn't all that deep but the car made a wake that made it to the snout of the air cleaner. I suddenly became aware of a knocking so I drove home and slept it off. The next morning I found I had a bent connecting rod as an amount of water made it up the snout and water does not compress! I would be careful how much water goes in the intake. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon May 5 20:06:40 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 22:06:40 EDT Subject: [TR] SS fitting behavior? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/5/2008 6:48:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes: I have installed several lines of my new SS pre-bent brake lines, I did so while putting little plastic bags w/ rubber bands fastened over the pre-flared ends so as to keep them clean. I only have hooked up one fitting as of yet. This particular fitting was under the car requiring me to reach it from a difficult position. Even though I hadn't yet started 'sealing/seating' the SS flares', I decided to go ahead and officially tighten this one completely because it would be hard to get to a second time. So I lubricated the fitting with brake fluid and commenced tightening it carefully. I have been known to overtighten things from time to time, but, everyone said SS required 'tightening the jeepers' at the fittings to make it seat. At what I thought constituted 'the jeepers', the nut seemed to 'give way' the last quarter (or less)of a turn. Of course any time that happens, you immediatly quit. Now it's possible from my strained position that: 1. the wrench slipped it's grip 2. some metal somewhere was roughed up 3. some threads somewhere were stripped, or maybe another possibility is that this is the correct behavior of SS flares when they finally seat. I hope that this is the case, could someone tell me? Also, what will happen if a line 'galls'? What should I do if this occurs? I have considered using another lubricant besides brake fluid, a paste type sealant but only on the flares at the brass 3-way or 5-way to prevent 'galling'. If so, none will be allowed to contact the brake fluid lines. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 Paul, On my cars when I install the brakelines, I don't tighten them terribly tight because of the possibility of damaging. Instead, I assume they'll all leak, and I put plastic under all those spots. When I ultimately install fluid, even without pumping the pedal, I find leaks and can tighten them further. I also immediately clean up any spilled brake fluid. If I have leakers, I gradually tighten them more and more until they stop leaking. I always use hydraulic wrenches also-a must for what you're doing. Best, Mike Moore **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From DLylis at aol.com Mon May 5 20:07:18 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 22:07:18 EDT Subject: [TR] SS fitting behavior? Message-ID: Paul, IMHO you are overthinking this galling thing. I disassembled my brakes after 20 years and they just came apart. If you use the proper wrench and not a spanner it grips well and comes apart nicely. I have never had problems taking apart brake lines. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon May 5 21:45:02 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 20:45:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 in the Chipmunks Movie? Message-ID: <481FD43E.7050808@comcast.net> I saw about the last 2 minutes of the Alvin and the Chipmunks move (2007) and it looked like Dave was driving a TR4. My 11 year old daughter tells me that there was fair bit of it in the movie. I haven't had time to check out the movie in more detail. Someone probably commented on the in the past and I missed it? Mike From wbeech at flash.net Mon May 5 22:42:18 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 22:42:18 -0600 Subject: [TR] TRF Weekend Specials ?? Message-ID: <005101c8af33$916fdf40$6401a8c0@sniffer> Just got off the TRF web site after selecting about $75 worth of seals & plugs. When I got to the check out I noticed they had added $25 worth of CORE CHARGES in varying amounts to about 1/2 the items on the list. Can someone explain why the scuttle vent rubber seal, priced at $5.96 would carry a core charge of $7.00??? Or, the taillight assy rubber at a cost of $1.96 has a core charge of $1.00? Do I REALLY have to round up the old rotted rubbers seals and send them back to get a refund? BTW, yes I am sending this same letter to TRF tonight as well. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From spitlist at cox.net Tue May 6 00:11:26 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 23:11:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRF Weekend Specials ?? In-Reply-To: <005101c8af33$916fdf40$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <005101c8af33$916fdf40$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <001301c8af40$048fcd80$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Send them an Apple Core. I am sure Charles will get a kick out of that! Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wbeech Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 9:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: trfspecials at zeni.net Subject: [TR] TRF Weekend Specials ?? Just got off the TRF web site after selecting about $75 worth of seals & plugs. When I got to the check out I noticed they had added $25 worth of CORE CHARGES in varying amounts to about 1/2 the items on the list. Can someone explain why the scuttle vent rubber seal, priced at $5.96 would carry a core charge of $7.00??? Or, the taillight assy rubber at a cost of $1.96 has a core charge of $1.00? Do I REALLY have to round up the old rotted rubbers seals and send them back to get a refund? BTW, yes I am sending this same letter to TRF tonight as well. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Tue May 6 03:09:29 2008 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:09:29 +0100 Subject: [TR] [Spits] A movie NOT for Triumph fans - In-Reply-To: <9f2527520805060144o2314c601q393fec04ee7c9f7a@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <20080506085909.5042A1878D2@autox.team.net> > [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Richard Gosling > > Secondly, I'm guessing (and hoping) that the movie company aren't > interested > in burning money for no good reason, and won't have spent #6,000 or more > on > a decent Stag only to go and wreck it. While I can't comment on this particular case, every so often I get contacted by film and television companies looking for this kind of "prop". Their requirements are usually pretty simple - any state as long as it's an identifiable rolling shell with most of the external trim. They don't even want a cosmetically pretty vehicle, they have people on payroll to deal with this kind of prettying up - why pay for someone else to do it? Bearing in mind how cheap and plentiful rotten Stags are here in the UK, at worst this one might have been a restorable project, more likely it was rotten as a pear! Requirements are of course different when cars play a significant part in the action. Any Jaguar lover who has seen what was done the Mk2s used in the filming of Mona Lisa will know what I mean! If you really want to worry about what is done to decent classic cars in the name of entertainment, Top Gear will be a good starting point. They have the opposite philosophy - start with a good car and make it look bad.... then destroy it. Cheers, Bill. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 6 05:37:43 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 04:37:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TRF Weekend Specials ?? In-Reply-To: <005101c8af33$916fdf40$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080506113742.VCVC28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Can someone explain why the scuttle vent rubber seal, priced > at $5.96 would > carry a core charge of $7.00??? Or, the taillight assy > rubber at a cost of > $1.96 has a core charge of $1.00? Seems clear to me that someone goofed big time when entering the sales prices in the database ! BTW, the P/N for the two pieces above are 600597 and TRF574634. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 6 05:47:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 04:47:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080506114715.RPUC2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I would be careful how much water goes in the intake. Indeed. Which is exactly why we've been mentioning things like using a garden sprayer to generate a mist of water; or pouring water very slowly and carefully into the intake (which as noted, is risky). However, I feel the risk is ameliorated somewhat by the fact the throttle is just barely cracked and manifold vacuum is high. The throttle plate is going to limit how much water gets sucked in at once. Not that I'm recommending the procedure; just discussing it. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 6 06:09:27 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 05:09:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauge Lights In-Reply-To: <001d01c8af1b$8adee3a0$394c3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <20080506120926.XHND720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > What I cannot figure out is the > wiring for the Speedo and Tach lights, the two warning lights > and the two panel lights. On the wiring diagram, these are > all basically run in a series with the red/white wire. Scott, I'm a little confused here. The warning lights should be wired totally separate from the panel/gauge lights. Not sure how your replacement harness is done, but the original configuration had two separate RW wires with the lamp sockets strung along them. One wire had the two sockets for the panel; while the other wire had four sockets for the tach & speedo. The two wires joined at the panel switch/rheostat terminal; and were not wrapped into a harness with any other wires. Each one was literally one single wire, with the insulation stripped off for a short distance where it was soldered/crimped to each bulb holder. I note the Moss catalog specifically mentions that wiring harnesses do not include "other leads not bound into the main harness"; perhaps BW had the same policy ? The red IGN warning lamp gets a yellow wire from the harness, and a separate (non-harness) white wire from the ignition switch. The yellow or green turn warning lamp gets a light green wire from the harness, and a separate black wire to the ground point on the dash panel. Note that these are also different bulb holders than the gauge/panel lamps; with two terminals instead of one. > Moss shows the sockets for the gauges > are available as well as the warning lights, but do they come > with the wiring in series or are they just the sockets, Pretty sure they are only the sockets. > and > if so, then how are you supposed to wire these? If you wanted to use separate wires, it shouldn't be too hard to solder two wires to each bulb holder. But the above method of using a single wire might be easier. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Tue May 6 06:11:59 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 08:11:59 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! Message-ID: Chapter Two When I took my SAAB to have the motor replaced (the insurance company insisted on a used motor, not a rebuilt), the mechanic at the SAAB garage told me that a surprisingly small amount of water could cause this. Less than a thimble full as I recall he said will reduce the compression chamber volume to the point that the piston can't push against it any longer, and as I think Cole Porter said "Somethin's gotta give". (Not Cole Porter the mechanic, rather, the composer). FWIW David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue May 6 06:16:50 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 08:16:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Spits] A movie NOT for Triumph fans - In-Reply-To: <20080506085909.5042A1878D2@autox.team.net> References: <9f2527520805060144o2314c601q393fec04ee7c9f7a@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <482013F2.19867.7690DDF@localhost> On 6 May 2008 at 10:09, Bill Davies wrote: > Any Jaguar lover who has seen what was done the Mk2s used in the > filming of Mona Lisa will know what I mean! I remember a Jaguar E-type (or if you prefer, XK-E) was trashed in at least one episode of The Rockford Files, a nice looking, driving example, so it appeared. Of course this was back when E's were a dime a dozen, well okay, make that twenty-five cents a dozen. And the trashed one might not really have been the one they used for the driving scenes. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From twakeman at razzolink.com Tue May 6 07:13:37 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 06:13:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] A movie NOT for Triumph fans - In-Reply-To: <482013F2.19867.7690DDF@localhost> References: <9f2527520805060144o2314c601q393fec04ee7c9f7a@mail.gmail.com> <482013F2.19867.7690DDF@localhost> Message-ID: <48205981.2080605@razzolink.com> War of the Roses. A Triumph engined Morgan was run over by a 4X4 that had the semi big foot treatment. I've never forgiven the makers of that movie. Every time they fired up the Morgan in the movie you could hear the unmistakable sound of a TR 4 cyl engine starting. I found that scene to be very distressing and never watched the movie a second time. I've always thought of a Morgan plus 4 as the only car that is more TR3 like than a TR3. The movie should have been rated X for extreme LBC violence. Teriann From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue May 6 07:29:57 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 13:29:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] Suspension stability. In-Reply-To: <481EFD41.11055.3286826@localhost> References: <481EFD41.11055.3286826@localhost> Message-ID: > Can any of you say how fast the car can go and remain stable? > > An upper limit is surely the speed of light. I must admit I have been hesitant to push the warp 11 button. Thanks for the advice. Best regards, Tom > > > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Get Free (PRODUCT) RED Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue May 6 07:57:58 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 13:57:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: <20080506114715.RPUC2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080506114715.RPUC2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: During WWII some tanks used a water injection system. Best regards, Tom > From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 04:47:16 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! > > > I would be careful how much water goes in the intake. > > Indeed. Which is exactly why we've been mentioning things like using a > garden sprayer to generate a mist of water; or pouring water very slowly and > carefully into the intake (which as noted, is risky). > > However, I feel the risk is ameliorated somewhat by the fact the throttle is > just barely cracked and manifold vacuum is high. The throttle plate is > going to limit how much water gets sucked in at once. > > Not that I'm recommending the procedure; just discussing it. > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Get Free (PRODUCT) RED Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue May 6 08:21:11 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:21:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts In-Reply-To: References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc> What this turned out to be was a bad bulb. The back up light bulb on the driver side was bad and once I replaced it, everything worked fine. So that begs the question: Does having a bad bulb create a "back feed" of some sort that caused the passenger side brake light to come on? It was a frustrating hour or so of testing and checking that ended up being something very simple. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Peter Kennison [mailto:peterk0219 at verizon.net] Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 AM To: 'Bob Danielson'; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts Bob, I am using that switch on my 3A HVDA for B/U. Simple SPST switch. Run power to one side, the other goes to the grounded light. Put an Ohm meter across the switch contacts and shifter in reverse if you need to test the switch. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:55 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts OK... I'm trying to get the back up lights to work with the Toyota 5 speed. The tranny has 2 contacts, the TR6 has 2 leads (G & G/N). G is switched hot and G/N goes to back up lights. Connect it all up, put it in reverse, turn on the key and nada. Continuity test on switch is good. Voltage test on leads shows power. Decide to connect G & G/N together to see if lights come on. What comes on is the right side back up light and the right side brake light. Go back to hooking it to switch and nothing again. After way more time than I care to admit, I finally figured it out. Can you or am I the only dummy? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1416 - Release Date: 5/5/2008 5:11 PM From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Tue May 6 09:09:04 2008 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 08:09:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] new key or switch Message-ID: <33242.90060.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hello the list. Living on a boat as I do has many advantages, but one of the nightmares is dropping your keys in the lake. After a year of good living, I did it yesterday. Dodge and Subaru can make me keys from the VIN, but obviously Triumph cant. And since this was the only key,(of course) I have no duplicate. Should I replace the entire switch? Can a good locksmith make one? Suggestions/advice from the list please? Thanks in advance Bryan C. Loy From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue May 6 09:29:28 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 11:29:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Movies with Triumphs Message-ID: Classic Movie "Diner" contains a scene early on, with a TR3A over on it's side, after Kevin Bacon 'rolled' it. It's owner said they very carefully tipped it over on it's side, setting the body panels on WRESTLING MATS. It's owner tells me that even though he was well paid, and they returned the car in fine condition, he was unable to watch the scene. He still owns this car, BTW. And I ALWAYS enjoy the TR3A in Viva Las Vegas. Joe A From david.brister at wanadoo.fr Tue May 6 09:34:25 2008 From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 17:34:25 +0200 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! References: Message-ID: <006e01c8af8e$aa717c00$0500a8c0@Study> Not really relevant to the thread, more like distantly related. When you drive through a ford you must have more pressure in the exhaust pipe than the water outside exerts on the exhaust otherwise you will get that kind of damage. The trick is to go forward very slowly with high revs and lots of clutch slipping and then all will be well. If the water is sufficiently deep to reach the fan then disconnect the belt. This will minimise the spray in the engine bay and stop the fan blades from damaging the rad. David Brister 1967 TR4A which has survived the odd ford. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 9099 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com Tue May 6 09:34:53 2008 From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 09:34:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - idiot responds Message-ID: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC9483070BDD6A@emss02m11.us.lmco.com> All: I use water injection on my TR6 and based on my experience I don't advise using this approach to eliminate existing carbon deposits. The perceived cleaning effect of water is overstated. This is particularly true for cars that have run with lead or lead substitutes - the carbon / ash combination must be mechanically removed. As long as any carbon buildup is not causing knock I wouldn't even consider solving the perceived problem. If you simply want to clean up the engine internals without popping the head off I recommend using BG-44-K; expensive and effective. You can visit my turbo charged Triumph web site at: www.turbo-tr6.info Hope this helps. Lee From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue May 6 09:50:49 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:50:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] where do these go? References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc><000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc> <07b001c8af85$558882a0$c7fba8c0@hp> Message-ID: <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local> These were in my spare parts bin. does anyone know on what vehicle they belong? http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue May 6 09:59:29 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 11:59:29 EDT Subject: [TR] where do these go? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/6/2008 8:56:04 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: These were in my spare parts bin. does anyone know on what vehicle they belong? http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ They look like the rear brake cylinders for my TR3A, but could well be rear brake cylinders for something else. Mike Moore **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From zoboherald at aol.com Tue May 6 10:29:58 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 12:29:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] where do these go? In-Reply-To: <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local> References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc><000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc> <07b001c8af85$558882a0$c7fba8c0@hp> <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <8CA7DAD8F7444B8-DA4-662@webmail-mf09.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Oliver These were in my spare parts bin. does anyone know on what vehicle they belong? ==AM== They might be Lockheed-style rear wheel cylinders for TR2-early TR3? http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From zoboherald at aol.com Tue May 6 10:33:45 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 12:33:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] new key or switch In-Reply-To: <33242.90060.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <33242.90060.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CA7DAE16506228-DA4-6C1@webmail-mf09.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Bryan Loy ...one of the nightmares is dropping your keys in the lake. After a year of good living, I did it yesterday. ... Should I replace the entire switch? Can a good locksmith make one? Suggestions/advice from the list please? Thanks in advance ==AM== Bryan, which model car are we talking about? A good locksmith should be able to make a key, and that should be cheaper or at least a bit faster than putting in a new switch. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Tue May 6 10:45:43 2008 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 12:45:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Good paint shop in the DC metro area? In-Reply-To: <8CA7DAE16506228-DA4-6C1@webmail-mf09.sysops.aol.com> References: <33242.90060.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8CA7DAE16506228-DA4-6C1@webmail-mf09.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB0A@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET> Howdy all! Does anyone happen to know of a good paint shop in the DC metro area? I need to do some repainting work on one of the little English cars, and I'm terrible with a spray gun. Thanks! NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From drsandner at embarqmail.com Tue May 6 10:59:46 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 12:59:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] picture/where do they go Message-ID: <0CA344B1DB74467AA81A936660100AC6@randyPC> oliver, they appear to be rear brake cylinders, removing the rubber band and 'brass cap' will expose the piston end. randy sandner From mathews at uga.edu Tue May 6 11:05:16 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 13:05:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] where do these go? In-Reply-To: <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local> References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc> <000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc> <07b001c8af85$558882a0$c7fba8c0@hp> <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <20080506170448.76C6C187667@autox.team.net> The thing in the middle is a ruler and goes in a kids school bag! ;-) Doug At 11:50 AM 5/6/2008, Oliver wrote: >These were in my spare parts bin. does anyone know on what vehicle they >belong? From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Tue May 6 11:06:32 2008 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:06:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] new key or switch In-Reply-To: <8CA7DAE16506228-DA4-6C1@webmail-mf09.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <376767.72185.qm@web37608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My appologies to the list, the car is a 71 TR6 --- zoboherald at aol.com wrote: > -----Original Message----- > ==AM== > Bryan, which model car are we talking about? A good > locksmith should be > able to make a key, and that should be cheaper or at > least a bit faster > than putting in a new switch. > > --Andy Mace From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue May 6 11:24:55 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 12:24:55 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] new key or switch Message-ID: <7884243.5083791210094695346.JavaMail.root@vms073.mailsrvcs.net> I have used and so have others: Pete Groh (410) 750-2352 From: zoboherald at aol.com Date: 2008/05/06 Tue AM 11:33:45 CDT To: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com, triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] new key or switch -----Original Message----- From: Bryan Loy ...one of the nightmares is dropping your keys in the lake. After a year of good living, I did it yesterday. ... Should I replace the entire switch? Can a good locksmith make one? Suggestions/advice from the list please? Thanks in advance ==AM== Bryan, which model car are we talking about? A good locksmith should be able to make a key, and that should be cheaper or at least a bit faster than putting in a new switch. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 6 11:38:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:38:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] where do these go? In-Reply-To: <8CA7DAD8F7444B8-DA4-662@webmail-mf09.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080506173839.YODN2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > They might be Lockheed-style rear wheel cylinders for TR2-early TR3? That's what they look like to me. http://tinyurl.com/4x8vra Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue May 6 11:47:43 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 13:47:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Movies with Triumphs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4820617F.28614.897FC4A@localhost> On 6 May 2008 at 11:29, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote: > Classic Movie "Diner" ... > It's owner tells me that even though he was well paid, and > they returned the car in fine condition, he was unable to > watch the scene. He used to be a member of british-cars at alliant.com, the predecessor of all these great lbc lists on autox.team.net. I don't recall his name at the moment though... -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue May 6 11:47:43 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 13:47:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: <006e01c8af8e$aa717c00$0500a8c0@Study> Message-ID: <4820617F.1812.897FCD6@localhost> On 6 May 2008 at 17:34, David Brister wrote: > When you drive through a ford you must have more pressure in > the exhaust pipe than the water outside exerts on the exhaust Does this work for driving through a chevy too? Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 6 12:02:51 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 11:02:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] new key or switch In-Reply-To: <33242.90060.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080506180252.FDZW19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Should I replace the entire switch? Can a good locksmith > make one? Suggestions/advice from the list please? While I'll certainly never put Pete or George out of business; I have had good luck doing this myself. Basically remove the switch from the car, then the lock barrel from the switch (which likely requires tapping a pin out and possibly picking the lock). Then insert a new key blank (eBay, TRF, etc.) and note where the first tumbler sits on the key. File that spot on the key (small 3-corner file) until the tumbler just comes level with the barrel; then do the next tumbler, etc. Smooth out the ramps between the filed spots, remove any burrs, and you're done. Now make a copy and save it for next time ! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 6 12:08:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 11:08:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080506180805.EULD720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > During WWII some tanks used a water injection system. So did some aircraft. There was also an add-on water injection system available from Edelbrock in the 70s, to help high compression car engines run on lower octane fuel. Never did find out how well it worked, though. One of my home-made injection nozzles came apart and fell into the intake, kind of ending the experiment. Since the shaved head had other problems, I went back to a standard head and quit having to buy octane improver by the case. Randall From barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu Tue May 6 12:12:32 2008 From: barteet at mrl.ucsb.edu (Jeffrey Barteet) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 11:12:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] test message Message-ID: <48209F90.6050803@mrl.ucsb.edu> From MMoore8425 at aol.com Tue May 6 12:45:32 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 14:45:32 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! Message-ID: In a message dated 5/6/2008 11:08:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: So did some aircraft. There was also an add-on water injection system available from Edelbrock in the 70s, to help high compression car engines run on lower octane fuel. One of my friends years ago was a flight engineer for AA. That was when they had the "Flagship Planes". The DC6 co-pilots job was to stick a small American flag outside and above his window both on landing and takeoff. The paying public was always to see an American flag flying over the DC6 when it arrived and departed the gate. My friend was involved in water injection experiments AA were doing to get more power from the airplane-I imagine to compete with TWA's Constellation. One morning they were taking off to take the very first flight test data. Fortunately,they were flying from a little used field (except for maintenance). The plan was to take off, and he was to, on command, start adding increasing amounts of water injection into all four engines. Something bad happened, and as they were climbing out, there was a huge misunderstanding and he added full water injection into all four engines, all of which immediately stopped! The co-pilot yelled to the pilot "What do you want to do now chief?" The very busy pilot yelled back "Break out the flag, we're about to land!" (My friend said the pilot declared a "Mayday", made a very tight 180 and landed downwind on the runway, No damage, no injuries.) Mike Moore **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue May 6 12:45:51 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 14:45:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Driving into water In-Reply-To: Message-ID: From: "David Brister" Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! Not really relevant to the thread, more like distantly related. When you drive through a ford you must have more pressure in the exhaust pipe than the water outside exerts on the exhaust otherwise you will get that kind of damage. The trick is to go forward very slowly with high revs and lots of clutch slipping and then all will be well. If the water is sufficiently deep to reach the fan then disconnect the belt. This will minimise the spray in the engine bay and stop the fan blades from damaging the rad. David Brister ...and add a snorkel, and you'll be good to go, like this guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qr8eEWyKQHM&feature=related Brian From emanteno at comcast.net Tue May 6 12:57:51 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 18:57:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] Movies with Triumphs - Diner Message-ID: <050620081857.13352.4820AA2F0005CEA8000034282200762194970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Jim Muller" jimmuller at rcn.com > He used to be a member of british-cars at alliant.com, the predecessor > of all these great lbc lists on autox.team.net. I don't recall his > name at the moment though... That would be John Lye. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From pryner at verizon.net Tue May 6 13:26:31 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 15:26:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I used to be a jet engine mechanic in the AF. We had water injection systems on both the KC-135 tanker and B-52 bomber. Both engines had spray bars in the inlet to provide the water. It worked by making the air more dense, giving better performance. The trick is that it has to be sprayed in small dropletts, not poured in. Also had to use distilled water to prevent build up of deposits which eventually reduce flow. Worked very well in most cases, especially on those very hot days on Guam with a full load. Pete -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of MMoore8425 at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 2:46 PM To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In a message dated 5/6/2008 11:08:59 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: So did some aircraft. There was also an add-on water injection system available from Edelbrock in the 70s, to help high compression car engines run on lower octane fuel. One of my friends years ago was a flight engineer for AA. That was when they had the "Flagship Planes". The DC6 co-pilots job was to stick a small American flag outside and above his window both on landing and takeoff. The paying public was always to see an American flag flying over the DC6 when it arrived and departed the gate. My friend was involved in water injection experiments AA were doing to get more power from the airplane-I imagine to compete with TWA's Constellation. One morning they were taking off to take the very first flight test data. Fortunately,they were flying from a little used field (except for maintenance). The plan was to take off, and he was to, on command, start adding increasing amounts of water injection into all four engines. Something bad happened, and as they were climbing out, there was a huge misunderstanding and he added full water injection into all four engines, all of which immediately stopped! The co-pilot yelled to the pilot "What do you want to do now chief?" The very busy pilot yelled back "Break out the flag, we're about to land!" (My friend said the pilot declared a "Mayday", made a very tight 180 and landed downwind on the runway, No damage, no injuries.) Mike Moore From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Tue May 6 13:55:17 2008 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 12:55:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR6 key In-Reply-To: <1A76AB57-68A1-4762-BA17-5159C3098C24@telus.net> Message-ID: <293180.5013.qm@web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> many thanks to the list. i'll seek out a good locksmith. --- Don Spence wrote: > A good locksmith can make a key to match your > ignition lock. Pull the > cylinder from the switch and take it in. From january at chemeketa.edu Tue May 6 13:57:45 2008 From: january at chemeketa.edu (January Williams) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 12:57:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] new key or switch Message-ID: <4C7800EB52CF054BB0B4FF50968C1B669833CE@cccmail2.chemeketa.network> You don't say what model you have . . . The big TRs like my 4A have a code stamped on the lock cylinder that can be used to source a new key. That's what I did for my trunk/boot and glove box; got them from Pete Groh. Mine were all FS 9xx series. check out his site, lots of useful info . . . http://britishcarkeys.com/ January 66 TR4A CTC74217 LO =========================================== Message: 1 Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 08:09:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Bryan Loy Subject: [TR] new key or switch To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: <33242.90060.qm at web37604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hello the list. Living on a boat as I do has many advantages, but one of the nightmares is dropping your keys in the lake. After a year of good living, I did it yesterday. Dodge and Subaru can make me keys from the VIN, but obviously Triumph cant. And since this was the only key,(of course) I have no duplicate. Should I replace the entire switch? Can a good locksmith make one? Suggestions/advice from the list please? Thanks in advance Bryan C. Loy From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue May 6 14:01:50 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 15:01:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Carbon on Pistons: Water Injection Info Message-ID: <20080506200150.13328.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> The following gives a pretty good overview of the role that water inejction has/can play with IC engines http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > -------Original Message------- > From: Peter Ryner > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! > Sent: May 06 '08 14:26 > > I used to be a jet engine mechanic in the AF. We had water injection > systems on both the KC-135 tanker and B-52 bomber. Both engines had spray > bars in the inlet to provide the water. It worked by making the air more > dense, giving better performance. The trick is that it has to be sprayed in > small dropletts, not poured in. Also had to use distilled water to prevent > build up of deposits which eventually reduce flow. Worked very well in most > cases, especially on those very hot days on Guam with a full load. > Pete > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of > MMoore8425 at aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 2:46 PM > To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts > please help! From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue May 6 14:45:03 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 13:45:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] Driving into water In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: But no time for that when you come over the rise in the road and see the next dip is a 20' wide stream. http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/muddy%20engine.JPG The engine didn't miss a beat. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: > The trick is to go forward very slowly with high revs and lots of clutch > slipping and then all will be well. If the water is sufficiently deep to > reach the fan then disconnect the belt. This will minimise the spray in > the engine bay and stop the fan blades from damaging the rad. From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue May 6 14:48:22 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 16:48:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > The co-pilot yelled to the pilot "What do you want to do now chief?"> > The very busy pilot yelled back "Break out the flag, we're about to land!"> > (My friend said the pilot declared a "Mayday", made a very tight 180 and > landed downwind on the runway, No damage, no injuries.)> > Mike Moore Great story, Mike! John H. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 6 18:10:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 17:10:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] Carbon on Pistons: Water Injection Info In-Reply-To: <20080506200150.13328.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> Message-ID: <20080507001054.GEFZ2106.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > The following gives a pretty good overview of the role that > water inejction has/can play with IC engines > http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html Along with a liberal dose of hype. $600 for a water pump, Youtch ! Thanks for the link, Tony, an interesting read. Randall From mathews at uga.edu Tue May 6 18:17:30 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 20:17:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Water Injection Info --GM had in 62! In-Reply-To: <20080506200150.13328.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> References: <20080506200150.13328.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> Message-ID: <20080507001713.4FD3F18786E@autox.team.net> I thought this topic jogged a spot in my memory..GM had water injection in 1962. Below is a description I found on the web. All '62 Cutlasses offered a 185-bhp "Power-Pack" V-8, but greater interest surrounded another new derivation. This was the turbocharged Jetfire hardtop coupe, which shared honors with Chevy's 1962 Corvair Monza Spyder as America's first high-volume turbocar. With blower, the Jetfire V-8 churned out a healthy 215 bhp -- the long-hallowed "1 hp per cu. in." ideal -- but carbon buildup with certain grades of fuel necessitated an unusual water-injection system (actually, a water/alcohol mix). While the Jetfire was remarkably fast (0-60 mph in about 8.5 seconds, top speed around 107 mph), the water-injection proved unreliable. As a result, Olds abandoned turbos for 1964 in favor of a conventional 330-cid V-8 of 230-290 bhp; at the same time, Buick's new 155-bhp 225-cid V-6 became base power for the F-85 line. My 65 Corvair Corsair Turbo had 180HP for 164cu and would squeal the tires up through 3rd. Good car except no one could work on it. I took it in for a problem under warranty and when I picked it up, they said the vacuum advance had to be replaced. I said it had none, rather a pressure retard. They said they were sure they had replaced it correctly and after a spin around the block, I went back in and asked them to check to part they used versus the part the manual called for. I also said I doubted they had a pressure retard in stock. I was right on both counts. Doug At 04:01 PM 5/6/2008, triumph at 2simpleusa.com wrote: > > -------Original Message------- > > From: Peter Ryner > > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine > experts please help! > > Sent: May 06 '08 14:26 > > > > I used to be a jet engine mechanic in the AF. We had water injection > > systems on both the KC-135 tanker and B-52 bomber. Both engines had spray > > bars in the inlet to provide the water. It worked by making the air more > > dense, giving better performance. The trick is that it has to > be sprayed in > > small dropletts, not poured in. Also had to use distilled water > to prevent > > build up of deposits which eventually reduce flow. Worked very > well in most > > cases, especially on those very hot days on Guam with a full load. > > Pete From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 6 18:32:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 17:32:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] Water Injection Info --GM had in 62! In-Reply-To: <6d15bg$a0180v@cdptpa-mxlb.mail.rr.com> Message-ID: <20080507003213.MIAY720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > With blower, the Jetfire V-8 churned > out a healthy 215 bhp -- the long-hallowed "1 hp per cu. in." Does that displacement sound familiar to anyone ? I'll give you a hint, the direct descendant of the Jetfire V8 (sans blower and magic boost fluid) can be found in TR8s. I heard the story somewhat differently though : the real problem was that GM considered the water/alcohol mix to be proprietary. Imagine having to visit a GM dealer to fill your gas tank ! Most folks didn't do that and instead drove the car for long periods of time with the boost fluid empty, which caused all sorts of problems. Plus of course, 215ci was simply too small for the huge iron Detroit was building in those days of under $.30 gasoline. Randall From mdporter at dfn.com Tue May 6 18:35:01 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 18:35:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] Water Injection Info --GM had in 62! In-Reply-To: <20080507001713.4FD3F18786E@autox.team.net> References: <20080506200150.13328.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> <20080507001713.4FD3F18786E@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4820F935.7030907@dfn.com> Doug Mathews wrote: > I thought this topic jogged a spot in my memory..GM had water > injection in 1962. Below is a description I found on the web. > > Back in the `50s, when I lived in Houston, a neighbor with a new Pontiac determined that, because water/alcohol injection was used on bombers to boost thrust on take-off, it would work well in cars, too. He installed an electric pump, a tank in the trunk, and a spray nozzle in the manifold, and was very pleased with himself and the results. That is, until his wife took the car one day, turned the switch on and left it on. Unfortunately, the fellow had wired the pump to battery power, and the pump had drained the supply tank and filled the engine sufficiently to bend five of the eight rods upon trying to start it the next morning. A little water is fine. A lot is not. Early `80s Toyota pick-ups had the air intake inlet mounted in the extreme upper left of the grille, and the more ambitious owners who wanted to emulate television advertising and blast through streams would cause a big slug of water to enter the engine, usually bending a minimum of three of the four rods. We usually got three or four of such in the shop each year. Our diagnosis on the work order usually included the word, "submarine." Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From Jeff.A.Williamson at jci.com Tue May 6 19:23:18 2008 From: Jeff.A.Williamson at jci.com (Jeff.A.Williamson at jci.com) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 21:23:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! Message-ID: I have a Mitsubishi 3000GT with an aftermarket water-methanol injection system. It sprays a mist of windshield wiper fluid into the intake just before the throttlebody. From what I'm told, the water cools the intake charge and the methanol, even though it's a small amount, acts as additional fuel. But this mist is computer-controlled in precise amounts based on rpms and turbo boost. You can actually feel a difference in performance. But serious damage can occur if the computer isn't dialed in right. Jeff W '58 TR3A From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Tue May 6 19:26:39 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 21:26:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauge Lights In-Reply-To: <20080506120926.XHND720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <001d01c8af1b$8adee3a0$394c3b47@Scott> <20080506120926.XHND720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <001101c8afe1$66337590$e04f3b47@Scott> I was not clear in my description, but yes, it is only the panel and gauges that have the R/W wire. From what I can tell, I need to run my own wire in sequence and attach this to the panel switch. I am assuming then that the one R/W wire coming from the harness is attached to the panel switch and thus when the panel switch is turned on, it completes the circuit to the series of bulbs. Since the original holders that go in the gauges have the wires cut off and I cannot figure out how to remove the wire from the base that is spring loaded, I'll give Moss a try on their holder. TA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: Randall [mailto:tr3driver at ca.rr.com] Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 8:09 AM To: 'Scott Suhring'; 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: RE: [TR] TR3A Gauge Lights > What I cannot figure out is the > wiring for the Speedo and Tach lights, the two warning lights > and the two panel lights. On the wiring diagram, these are > all basically run in a series with the red/white wire. Scott, I'm a little confused here. The warning lights should be wired totally separate from the panel/gauge lights. Not sure how your replacement harness is done, but the original configuration had two separate RW wires with the lamp sockets strung along them. One wire had the two sockets for the panel; while the other wire had four sockets for the tach & speedo. The two wires joined at the panel switch/rheostat terminal; and were not wrapped into a harness with any other wires. Each one was literally one single wire, with the insulation stripped off for a short distance where it was soldered/crimped to each bulb holder. I note the Moss catalog specifically mentions that wiring harnesses do not include "other leads not bound into the main harness"; perhaps BW had the same policy ? The red IGN warning lamp gets a yellow wire from the harness, and a separate (non-harness) white wire from the ignition switch. The yellow or green turn warning lamp gets a light green wire from the harness, and a separate black wire to the ground point on the dash panel. Note that these are also different bulb holders than the gauge/panel lamps; with two terminals instead of one. > Moss shows the sockets for the gauges > are available as well as the warning lights, but do they come > with the wiring in series or are they just the sockets, Pretty sure they are only the sockets. > and > if so, then how are you supposed to wire these? If you wanted to use separate wires, it shouldn't be too hard to solder two wires to each bulb holder. But the above method of using a single wire might be easier. Randall From mrv8q at aim.com Tue May 6 19:41:15 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 21:41:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] SoCal drive-line shop recommendation Message-ID: <8CA7DFA92A6CD51-A28-2A3A@webmail-ne10.sysops.aol.com> Can someone recommend a shop in SoCal, preferably L.A. area, that'll replaceB the u-joints on the half-shaft for a TR6? I've got them pulled, and ready to go.... Thanks, Kevin Browne From patton at suscom-maine.net Tue May 6 20:15:09 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 22:15:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I'd be reluctant to inject water unless I did a ton of research but that's just me. What I would try is to pour a little Sea Foam Deep Creep into the intake. Check out: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm Rick Patton 75 TR6sci rick at pattonmachine.com From thomas309 at aol.com Tue May 6 20:59:58 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 22:59:58 EDT Subject: [TR] where do these go? Message-ID: The vehicle that they came off of...! Sorry, I couldn't resist. Tom In a message dated 5/6/2008 11:55:36 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: These were in my spare parts bin. does anyone know on what vehicle they belong? http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thomas309 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From thomas309 at aol.com Tue May 6 21:03:00 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 23:03:00 EDT Subject: [TR] new key or switch Message-ID: Isn't there someone here that can supply keys, having only the # on the lock/ignition barrel or rim? I think this topic was just discussed in the recent past. Tom In a message dated 5/6/2008 1:06:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, paradise.712002 at yahoo.com writes: My appologies to the list, the car is a 71 TR6 --- zoboherald at aol.com wrote: > -----Original Message----- > ==AM== > Bryan, which model car are we talking about? A good > locksmith should be > able to make a key, and that should be cheaper or at > least a bit faster > than putting in a new switch. > > --Andy Mace This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thomas309 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 7 00:36:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 23:36:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Gauge Lights In-Reply-To: <001101c8afe1$66337590$e04f3b47@Scott> Message-ID: <20080507063619.QHQP720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I am assuming then that the one R/W wire > coming from the harness is attached to the panel switch and > thus when the panel switch is turned on, it completes the > circuit to the series of bulbs. Scott, I'd want to find out where the other end of that wire is, first. AFAIK there is no red/white in the harness; the only 2 RW wires are the ones I mentioned before. The other side of the panel switch gets a short red wire from the headlight switch (not in the harness), which is hot when the tail/marker lights are on. There is, however, a white/red wire that runs in the harness between the starter pushbutton and the starter solenoid. > Since the original holders > that go in the gauges have the wires cut off and I cannot > figure out how to remove the wire from the base > that is spring loaded, The original holders for the panel/gauge lights weren't what I would call "spring loaded". Are you sure you aren't looking at the holder for the high beam indicator ? The holder for the panel/gauge lamps has just a round disc of brown phenolic, with stamped copper pieces riveted to it. Moss 142-700. There is just a little tab of copper that sticks out for the wires to solder to; and two more tabs, one on each side, to crimp onto the wire as strain relief. Randall [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of bulb holder.gif] From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed May 7 09:18:47 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:18:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] where do these go? In-Reply-To: <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local> References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc><000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc> <07b001c8af85$558882a0$c7fba8c0@hp> <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: That is a T101 which replaced the T100. It is part of the actuator mechanism for the warp drive. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get Free (PRODUCT) RED Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008 From opposumking at verizon.net Wed May 7 09:36:46 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 11:36:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] new key or switch References: Message-ID: <001101c8b058$2e52ad40$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> > Isn't there someone here that can supply keys, having only the # on the > lock/ignition barrel or rim? http://www.britishcarkeys.com/ From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed May 7 11:17:00 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 13:17:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] where do these go? In-Reply-To: References: <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <4821ABCC.13097.DA23A3A@localhost> On 7 May 2008 at 15:18, tom white wrote: > That is a T101 which replaced the T100. It is part of the actuator > mechanism for the warp drive. The question in the Subject line was "where do these go?" We still don't know but presumably it won't take long for them to get there. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From markvaden at gmail.com Wed May 7 12:00:09 2008 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:00:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Radiator burping Message-ID: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com> Hi All, Last weekend I was running my TR4A at VARA's British Extravaganza. The car ran great, but after each run it was burping water around the edge of the radiator cap, and not into the overlfow. On the second day I bought a 21lb cap, and it did not burp out the cap during my first 2 runs, but it did burp out on my 3rd run. I think that 21lbs is too high, but it was all they had available at the track . The car never ran hot, and it is a new engine rebuild. The head was pressure tested and magna fluxed. Any ideas on what would cause all of this pressure? TIA, Mark From trglory at comcast.net Wed May 7 12:45:17 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:45:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood In-Reply-To: <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com> <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net> Bob; I just finished my TR6 (she's ready for the Carlisle show next week) and did it the exact same way as you. I was going to inquire about the trouble I'm having with the left rear corner of the hood being higher than the fender, but I see that you have the same problem too. I have the rubber cone adjusted down as far as it will go but it's still not enough. BTW, while I was putting the car back together, I installed Art Lipp's throttle shaft bushings and I have to tell you that it went together as slick as a skid mark! What a great design; thanks Art. Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 1:21 PM To: 'Chuck Arnold'; 'Friends'; 'Triumph' Subject: Re: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood Chuck, I just went through this and it wasn't too bad. Here's how I did it http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodInstall.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008 5:17 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 7 12:52:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:52:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Radiator burping In-Reply-To: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com> References: <285b8a860805071100k8c0ac65id3c9ca314099fe8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <124401c8b073$74d47f30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> IMO, burping a little after a hard run and sudden shutdown is normal. There is still a lot of heat stored in the cylinder head & block, but the water is no longer circulating to carry the heat away. So the residual heat causes a little boiling in the head. The real question IMO is why it didn't go into the overflow. Sounds like it may be blocked; or perhaps the upper lip of your radiator neck is damaged so it doesn't seal to the cap. Randall From cole.jw at comcast.net Wed May 7 13:27:34 2008 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (cole.jw at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 19:27:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Seat Bolster Springs - Imagine My Frustration... Message-ID: <050720081927.28650.482202A600098FAB00006FEA22007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> I bought a beautiful seat upholstery kit. I bought a complete seat foam kit from the UK. I bought new seat bottom diaphragms and straps for the seat backs. I didn't have time to install them on the frames, so I took them to a shop. Ten hours, totaling $620 was the estimate. Does it really take that long to cover a pair of TR6 seats when everything is already made and they have no intention of repairing or refinishing the frames? I left them to the task. I was unhappy with the quote, but at least it was getting done in a week. Four weeks in, still nothing. When I called and complained about how long it has taken, they pulled the upholstery off of the driver's seat and discovered broken bolster springs in the seat back. I have not found a place to buy replacements. I got my hands on a piece of proper diameter spring steel. I commenced copying the springs by using a torch to heat the spring steel. It seems to be working, but I question how long they will last, having been heated. I am running out of spring steel and need to locate more. Am I on the right track or completely off the rails here? Does my frustration show? Jerry Cole Lakewood, WA. 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed May 7 14:49:40 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:49:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood In-Reply-To: <009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net> References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com> <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc> <009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net> Message-ID: <000501c8b083$e2ebd5d0$210110ac@bobspc> Joe, Both rear edges of my hood are up and it's also not a problem with the rubber cones being adjusted wrong. Years ago I asked a restoration shop about it and he said the way they get them to lay correctly is by "springing" the hood. Basically they'd put a block of wood under the hood and "bend" the corners down to get the correct curve. I'll pass on that technique and live with the raised corners. Unless someone has a simple solution. And Art Lipp's throttle shaft bushing & his steering column bushings are both great. He told me he'll be bringing a bunch of them to Carlisle. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Joe Laurito [mailto:trglory at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:45 PM To: 'Bob Danielson'; 'Triumph'; Triumph List; 'arthur lipp' Subject: RE: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood Bob; I just finished my TR6 (she's ready for the Carlisle show next week) and did it the exact same way as you. I was going to inquire about the trouble I'm having with the left rear corner of the hood being higher than the fender, but I see that you have the same problem too. I have the rubber cone adjusted down as far as it will go but it's still not enough. BTW, while I was putting the car back together, I installed Art Lipp's throttle shaft bushings and I have to tell you that it went together as slick as a skid mark! What a great design; thanks Art. Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 1:21 PM To: 'Chuck Arnold'; 'Friends'; 'Triumph' Subject: Re: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood Chuck, I just went through this and it wasn't too bad. Here's how I did it http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodInstall.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008 5:17 PM No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008 5:17 PM From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed May 7 14:51:13 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:51:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] clutch m/c to slave tube diameter? Message-ID: <001c01c8b084$17692ec0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Is it ok to use 3/16ths" diameter pre-flared hydraulic/brake line between the m/c and slave cylinder (this is for the clutch)? The PO had some kind of 1/4" plastic hose crap. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 466 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From trglory at comcast.net Wed May 7 15:03:25 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 17:03:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood In-Reply-To: <000501c8b083$e2ebd5d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com> <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc> <009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net> <000501c8b083$e2ebd5d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <00b501c8b085$cbc0faa0$6342efe0$@net> I used that technique to "profile" the trunk lid on my TR3. Cracked all the paint in the valley about two inches from the edge. It evidently takes someone with more skill (or finesse) than I possess. Being older and wiser, I'll pass this time around. Joe -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 4:50 PM To: 'Joe Laurito'; 'Triumph'; 'Triumph List'; 'arthur lipp' Subject: RE: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood Joe, Both rear edges of my hood are up and it's also not a problem with the rubber cones being adjusted wrong. Years ago I asked a restoration shop about it and he said the way they get them to lay correctly is by "springing" the hood. Basically they'd put a block of wood under the hood and "bend" the corners down to get the correct curve. I'll pass on that technique and live with the raised corners. Unless someone has a simple solution. And Art Lipp's throttle shaft bushing & his steering column bushings are both great. He told me he'll be bringing a bunch of them to Carlisle. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008 5:17 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 7 15:19:31 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:19:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Seat Bolster Springs - Imagine My Frustration... In-Reply-To: <050720081927.28650.482202A600098FAB00006FEA22007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> References: <050720081927.28650.482202A600098FAB00006FEA22007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <129b01c8b088$0a400df0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I commenced > copying the springs by using a torch to heat the spring > steel. It seems to be working, but I question how long they > will last, having been heated. I am running out of spring > steel and need to locate more. Am I on the right track or > completely off the rails here? If you've heated them enough to bend, and then let them cool on their own; there's a very good chance you've ruined the 'spring' temper. As I recall, the 'book' method for springs is to first completely anneal them to equalize stresses introduced during forming (which generally requires heating to cherry red then let cool slowly in an oxygen-free environment); then reheat to red and quench in oil (not water). Then a third tempering step is required, with lower heat and quenching again in oil. The temperature in the final step is more critical (but I don't recall the color offhand, maybe something like "light straw"). Easier IMO to cold-form them; or easier yet to find a stock spring you can cut to length. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Wed May 7 17:36:30 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 23:36:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Carburetor Leak Message-ID: <050720082336.10263.48223CFE000BFE740000281722165486869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Humblest apologies, everyone. I can't seem to find this past discussion. My carb rebuilds are low milage but several years old now, so the double rubber washers underneath have broken down and begun to leak. Mildly, as yet. Do I remember reading here that there is an alternative to the standard replacement that won't break down under the modern gas? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed May 7 17:38:47 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 19:38:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] 1972 TR6 Seat Bolster Springs - Heat Treatment Thoughts References: <050720081927.28650.482202A600098FAB00006FEA22007348309906D20A04010C@comcast.net> <129b01c8b088$0a400df0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <0cfd01c8b09b$7f17e130$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> I'd add that the initial annealing (where all the stresses are relieved) needs to be undertaken over a longer period of time ... the ideal method is to heat the spring steel in a small furnace to red heat for a long time ... and then let the entire furnace cool very slowly. The absence of air would be great, but it is not a big issue except that the surface will discolor as it oxidizes. Hobbyist knife makers use coffee cans with a large hole in the side for a propane torch and filled with dry sand to act as the heat absorbing medium so they can get that very slow cool once the blade has "soaked" at red heat for 30 minutes. For the hardening phase, you can use oil or water to quench from bright red heat ... I prefer oil. I'd suggest repeating this step two times. Before tempering, clean the thing so it shines like a new pin, but don't use any cleaning techniques that will get the spring too hot ... light use of wire wheel is fine! Then heat with the spring resting in a dry sand container in such a way that you can clearly see the colors change as it slowly heats up. The colors will go from very light straw to dark blue (and if you keep going, to a nice cherry red ... then you are back at step one above) fairly quickly. It is a little tricky to heat something that is quite long so it at a uniform color along its length! I'd suggest a light/medium blue temper for the first try for a spring. Light straw is still pretty hard (that's where I stop for cutting edges of cold chisels). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 5:19 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 1972 TR6 Seat Bolster Springs - Imagine My Frustration... >> I commenced >> copying the springs by using a torch to heat the spring >> steel. It seems to be working, but I question how long they >> will last, having been heated. I am running out of spring >> steel and need to locate more. Am I on the right track or >> completely off the rails here? > > If you've heated them enough to bend, and then let them cool on their own; > there's a very good chance you've ruined the 'spring' temper. > > As I recall, the 'book' method for springs is to first completely anneal > them to equalize stresses introduced during forming (which generally > requires heating to cherry red then let cool slowly in an oxygen-free > environment); then reheat to red and quench in oil (not water). Then a > third tempering step is required, with lower heat and quenching again in > oil. The temperature in the final step is more critical (but I don't > recall > the color offhand, maybe something like "light straw"). > > Easier IMO to cold-form them; or easier yet to find a stock spring you can > cut to length. > > Randall From team.net at Daveola.com Thu May 8 00:44:10 2008 From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 23:44:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission Conversion In-Reply-To: <001901c8ac4a$a784e140$210110ac@bobspc> from "Bob Danielson" at May 02, 2008 07:49:58 AM Message-ID: I sent this response to Bob and realized it would probably make sense to go to the whole list: Bob said: > Herman is now strongly recommending that the slip in the driveshaft be > totally eliminated. His locking collar only prevents the driveshaft from > moving in but there's nothing to prevent it from moving out and pushing the It is - because the driveshaft is fully extended in the locked position, so it can't move in either direction - so the only slip is in the tranny flange. Also, Joe Burlein said: > I am curious what the big attraction is to going to the Nissan/Toyota 5 > speed conversion? Here's my rundown for the decision. First of all, keep in mind that the current state of my transmission was non-O.D. and broken, and my car is a daily driver (with highway use) Rebuild TR3 Tranny ------------------ + Original (Possibly the original tranny from the car!) - Hard to find gears - Likely to need rebuild soon - Highway driving is very high RPM - Need to do a transmission rebuild, more difficult than a transmission replacement or conversion. Cost ~$1200 or more for parts? TR3 O.D. Tranny --------------- + Original Equipment (if not the original transmission) + Highway driving improved - Very hard to find replacement parts - Still needs to be rebuilt often - Need to find one Cost: ?? Last ebay O.D. was ~$1700?? Might need rebuild? Toyoto Conversion ----------------- - Not original + Highway driving improved + Transmission is bullet-proof, rarely needs rebuild + Conversion very well made + No more rebuilding even, just get a replacement transmission for ~$200 - Cost was higher than expected because of additional parts I didn't know I needed + a bunch of next day shipping :(, and because of machining costs. Cost: Kit+parts+machining+transmission ~$2400 (I expected ~$2k) It took some serious though, but I decided I didn't want to deal with another Triumph transmission rebuild considering the last one went badly and only lasted four years. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415.341.5555 --- ..it is not easy for a long-haired man to perform any manual task. ---- -- Aristotle From jmitch at snet.net Thu May 8 04:51:51 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 06:51:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats Message-ID: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net> I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so I jumpered the wires last night. It lasted several minutes before the fuse blew. What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for as the culprit? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu May 8 10:49:29 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 09:49:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] new keys or switch Message-ID: <001401c8b12b$7babb5e0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> http://www.triple-c.com/Triumph_Keys.cfm These guys make some British car keys by the key number. Regards, Bob From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Thu May 8 07:54:46 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 09:54:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suspension bushings redux Message-ID: Listerati, I have been reading through the archives in preparation for a renaissance of my TR4's front-end suspension. New springs are necessary, new shocks are a possibility, new bushes are a certainty. >From what I have read, replacing with rubber bushes is out of the question. Of the alternatives, some have chosen bushings made from a nylon-type material, some have opted for polyurethane, and a cosmopolitan few have combined them (poly-lower and nylon-upper, as I recall). My questions: 1. Have those who opted for nylon found the feedback too harsh for regular road use? 2. Have those who opted for polyurethane found the wear excessive? 3. Have those who combined bushings achieved what they sought? 4. For those who fitted the bushings themselves, is the reaming achievable using hand tools, or is a lathe essential? 5. For those with polyurethane, did the application of grease prevent squeaking? I don't race, though I'd probably describe my street driving as 'spirited' (a brake booster is also on my list). I'm leaning to all-polyurethane, pending your insights. Also, who do the list see as the bushing supplier of choice? TriumphTune, BPNW, Moss, Revington, TRF all get regular mentions. Many thanks, Brian in Valley Forge Triumph TR4 1963 CT14455-L From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu May 8 08:39:42 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:39:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Ruining rheostats In-Reply-To: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net> References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net> Message-ID: On Thu, 8 May 2008, John Mitchell wrote: > I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so > I jumpered the wires last night. It lasted several minutes before the > fuse blew. What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for > as the culprit? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 You obviously have a short. Start pulling stuff off the circuit to see what's shorted. I'd skip replacing the fuse and use a test-light to find the short. You'll save some $$$ on fuses. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From paradise.712002 at yahoo.com Thu May 8 08:44:33 2008 From: paradise.712002 at yahoo.com (Bryan Loy) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 07:44:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] new keys or switch In-Reply-To: <001401c8b12b$7babb5e0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <734432.10336.qm@web37607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many thanks to all that replied. I think I can get the switch out this weekend and find that number. As always, the list is the greatest! Bryan --- Bob wrote: > http://www.triple-c.com/Triumph_Keys.cfm > > These guys make some British car keys by the key > number. > Regards, > Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 8 08:49:00 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 07:49:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Suspension bushings redux In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080508144900.RGQC28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > 1. Have those who opted for nylon found the feedback too > harsh for regular road use? I was quite happy with the all-Nylatron (not quite the same as nylon) setup on my TR3A; even on several long trips. However, I believe the perceived harshness depends a lot more on tires than on bushings, so YMMV. The Potenzas I wound up with seem to ride pretty good. > 4. For those who fitted the bushings themselves, is the > reaming achievable using hand tools, or is a lathe essential? I used an adjustable hand reamer. It's the correct tool, IMO, don't see any way to do it in a lathe. The bushings must be installed in the A-arms before being reamed, since they deform to match the holes. > I don't race, though I'd probably describe my street driving > as 'spirited' > (a brake booster is also on my list). Others will likely disagree; but I would suggest against the brake booster unless you have some sort of physical limitation. For spirited driving, you want brakes that are fast to grab, easy to modulate, and work the same every time. A booster interferes with all of those goals and only offers a light pedal, which is no advantage IMO. > Also, who do the list see as the bushing supplier of choice? I got mine from BFE, mostly because I can run over there and pick them up. But Ken works closely with a lot of racers, so he knows what works and won't sell what doesn't work. I've been very happy with everything I've gotten from him. (NFI) Randall From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu May 8 09:12:07 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 08:12:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com><000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc><009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net><000501c8b083$e2ebd5d0$210110ac@bobspc> <00b501c8b085$cbc0faa0$6342efe0$@net> Message-ID: <008201c8b11d$e1ce49e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I have also tried this technique in the past, and a similar problem when the car was finished even with a new paint. These new paint finishes with hardeners are very hard and crack very easily. I have now resorted to finish the panels in primer, then do your "tweaking" before you finish top coating. If you are dealing with rubber seals trunk lid or doors, pre install, but not permanently to check fit. It means more work, but in the long run it could save time & headaches. Another way to "tweaked" these panels after the finish has been applied, is to add flex agents to these new base coat clear coat finishes. That allows a lot more flex in the paint finishes, similar to i.e. the new ABS and plastic materials used for finishing off the bumpers & ect. They all have flex agents added to the finish to prevent excessive cracking. However you must know what you are doing, and patience here is a must if you are trying to align a perfect panel. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Laurito To: 'Bob Danielson' ; 'Triumph' ; 'Triumph List' ; 'arthur lipp' Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:03 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood I used that technique to "profile" the trunk lid on my TR3. Cracked all the paint in the valley about two inches from the edge. It evidently takes someone with more skill (or finesse) than I possess. Being older and wiser, I'll pass this time around. Joe -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 4:50 PM To: 'Joe Laurito'; 'Triumph'; 'Triumph List'; 'arthur lipp' Subject: RE: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood Joe, Both rear edges of my hood are up and it's also not a problem with the rubber cones being adjusted wrong. Years ago I asked a restoration shop about it and he said the way they get them to lay correctly is by "springing" the hood. Basically they'd put a block of wood under the hood and "bend" the corners down to get the correct curve. I'll pass on that technique and live with the raised corners. Unless someone has a simple solution. And Art Lipp's throttle shaft bushing & his steering column bushings are both great. He told me he'll be bringing a bunch of them to Carlisle. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008 5:17 PM ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu May 8 12:19:36 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 11:19:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Ruining rheostats References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net> Message-ID: <002901c8b138$12b33b00$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Electrical diagram I have shows 8 dashboard lamps wired to (red wire) rheostat and wire (red/white) to fuse 12V. Will fuse blow if you connect red to red/white? Rheostat function is to vary current/voltage to lamps thereby vary light intensity. This should not by itself draw more current...blow fuse and burn rheostat. Seems more like where the wires belong on the rheostat itself would be the issue. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Mitchell" To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:51 AM Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats > I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so > I jumpered the wires last night. It lasted several minutes before the > fuse blew. What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for > as the culprit? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu May 8 10:21:39 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 12:21:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suspension bushings redux In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004001c8b127$9a4a4a60$210110ac@bobspc> Brian, I used Goodparts Nylatron bushings when I redid the front last year (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Stub%20Axle.htm) and the rears this year (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm) . Along with these two bushing rebuilds were new stub axles, solid steering rack mounts and new steering column bushings and rubber coupling. I can't say I noticed any additional harshness but I did notice far greater responsiveness. And no squeaks in either hot or cold weather. Fitting the Nylatron bushings required no special tools. I greased them first and the front ones either pressed in place or were tapped in place with a wood block and a hammer. The Trailing Arms did require the use of a small sanding flap wheel to clean out the mounting holes and to true them up. Those ended up being pressed in with some sockets and a C-clamp. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 9:55 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Suspension bushings redux Listerati, I have been reading through the archives in preparation for a renaissance of my TR4's front-end suspension. New springs are necessary, new shocks are a possibility, new bushes are a certainty. >From what I have read, replacing with rubber bushes is out of the question. Of the alternatives, some have chosen bushings made from a nylon-type material, some have opted for polyurethane, and a cosmopolitan few have combined them (poly-lower and nylon-upper, as I recall). My questions: 1. Have those who opted for nylon found the feedback too harsh for regular road use? 2. Have those who opted for polyurethane found the wear excessive? 3. Have those who combined bushings achieved what they sought? 4. For those who fitted the bushings themselves, is the reaming achievable using hand tools, or is a lathe essential? 5. For those with polyurethane, did the application of grease prevent squeaking? I don't race, though I'd probably describe my street driving as 'spirited' (a brake booster is also on my list). I'm leaning to all-polyurethane, pending your insights. Also, who do the list see as the bushing supplier of choice? TriumphTune, BPNW, Moss, Revington, TRF all get regular mentions. Many thanks, Brian in Valley Forge Triumph TR4 1963 CT14455-L This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.10/1421 - Release Date: 5/7/2008 5:23 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 8 10:54:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 09:54:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats In-Reply-To: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net> Message-ID: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > It lasted > several minutes before the fuse blew. That would indicate either a slight overload (possibly a wiring mistake to another load) or (more likely) an intermittent short. Shorts in particular can be lots of fun to find; I've had this problem several times (on various non-TR6 cars) and it usually turned out to be a wire that was pinched in the bodywork somehow. On the Stag, it was the (unused) wire to the gear indicator pinched under the center console. On my Valiant, it was the wire to the key illumination pinched in a steering column shroud. If memory serves, there is a center console light on the later TR6 that could be the problem. Careful inspection is where I would start, but if that doesn't work : Remove all the bulbs on the circuit and temporarily jumper the fuse with an old headlight bulb or similar. The bulb will pass some current, but not enough to damage the wiring. Then use a magnetic compass to track down where the current goes. Or some places sell a tool that does the same thing. Likely much better, but I've never tried one. Yet another approach is to find a self-resetting circuit breaker (many more modern cars have these in the power window circuits, should be readily available at your FLAPS) and jumper the fuse with that. Then feel for the hot wire. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 8 11:05:32 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:05:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats In-Reply-To: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20080508170532.USTN28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Randall wrote : > That would indicate either a slight overload Wait a minute ... I just noticed that the manual calls for a 35 amp (Lucas system) fuse in that location. With that big a fuse and the relatively small wires to the dash lamps, even a direct short might take a while to blow the fuse. So it might be intermittent or it might not. Sorry. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu May 8 12:30:02 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 14:30:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats In-Reply-To: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net> Message-ID: <48230E6A.6580.130B737A@localhost> On 8 May 2008 at 9:54, Randall wrote: > > It lasted several minutes before the fuse blew. It's a classic Lucas design feature, the rheostat blowing so as to protect the fuse, seeing as how it is so important to have a fuse in the circuit. In a typical LBC you have so few of them that each takes on added importance, and should one fail several other systems would go down with it. > and it usually turned out to be a wire that was pinched in > thebbodywork somehow. Back in the late 80's I had a co-worker who drove a Maserati bi- turbo. One day he called me at the office and said "Heeeeellp! My car just caught fire!" I drove out to rescue him from some parking lot and he told me the story. He was driving along, had apparently thrown some switch and smoke started coming out from under the dashboard. So he switched everything off, pulled the car into the first lot he saw and called me in a panic. After a bit of discussion I started unscrewing the plastic trim under the steering column and quickly found the trouble. It seems he had had the car serviced a day or two earlier by a local Maserati dealer (there were two in the area, as I recall). Some dweeb with more screwdriver power than brain power had driven the trim mounting screw straight through the wiring harness. I checked that nothing was obviously still shorting, put the trim and screw back in place properly, and told him "Craig, I have no idea what will or won't work now, but you need to take this up with the dealer." Anyway, it would seem that Magneti-Marelli (or whoever) had similar design features as Lucas - protect the fuse even if it means letting the smoke out! But I'm sure Italian smoke was more expensive than English smoke at that time. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From CarlSereda at aol.com Thu May 8 15:24:45 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 17:24:45 EDT Subject: [TR] Suspension bushings redux Message-ID: Brian, FYI: TR4 front suspensions are more difficult to rebuild than TR4A.. In general I like to buy from US vendors as they're closer but sometimes I have to recommend faraway vendors - in this case I recommend RevingtonTR for TR4 suspension parts. Neil Revington promotes using 2 oilite bronze bushes to replace the 1 original softer brass bushing in each A arm. These can be bought from RevingtonTR or your local hardware store and pushed in with a vice - one inserted from each side - leaving 1/8" 'grease groove' inbetween them. No reaming required, and supposedly longer lasting. If your trunnion-threads-to-your-vertical link-threads are in excellent shape, but trunnion shafts are scored and worn as typical, Revington sells new trunnion shafts. A machine shop can easily push out & in the shafts. And only RevingtonTR sells the critical 'one-use only' TR4 cross shaft-end 'thrust washers' - 4 required, for about 2 bucks each (I couldn't get these special washers at the Big 3 vendors in the US - even though they advertised otherwise, costing me time and money). The rubber grease/dust seals (16 required) look great from Revington too (although not proven) - I bought them after my favorite US vendor told me "I might need to replace THEIR rubber seals every year." The Triumph factory spec'd some pretty good rubber and nylon parts for the TR4 suspension in my opinion, as well as the rubber steering rack blocks and rubber/nylon steering column bushes. They did this after some years of trial and error to arrive at a balance of performance and comfort (while reducing stress points like that to the vulnerable and now unavailable steering 'pinion gear'). I wouldn't hesitate trying stock first - unless you know you'll always be pushing for more performance over comfort - and don't mind slightly more road feel and/or wear. Make sure you compare your A-arms to the Workshop Manual specs - they get bent out of spec pretty easy but heat 'n hammer straightens 'em out. Would definitely recommend the factory option anti-sway bar, not sure about the heavier bars as I don't like their 1-bolt hook up versus 2-bolt hookup to those bendy front A-arms! Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ps; I would think front suspension springs would be ok, but shocks would need renewing, rather than other way around.. my front springs measure exactly 10.1" free height, just like the book said they should.. ------------------------------------------- Also, who do the list see as the (TR4) bushing supplier of choice? TriumphTune, BPNW, Moss, Revington, TRF all get regular mentions. Many thanks, Brian in Valley Forge Triumph TR4 1963 CT14455-L


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(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From gprtech at frontiernet.net Thu May 8 15:35:49 2008 From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson) Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 17:35:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] new keys or switch In-Reply-To: <734432.10336.qm@web37607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <734432.10336.qm@web37607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48237235.7000705@frontiernet.net> If you have a steering column lock, that may be harder than you think, and the code won't be anywhere on the lock. If you remove the switch from inside the lock housing you may find a paper sticker inside. If you do, you may still be able to read the code printed on it. A TR6 ignition would have used one of these two keys: http://www.key-men.com/shopping/show_key.php?catnum=FT6R http://www.key-men.com/shopping/show_key.php?catnum=WB1 The first is single sided, the second is double sided. The code prefix identifies the correct one, FR for the first, WR for the second. You can buy the keys from my web site, and if you find the code, you can order them cut, George Richardson Bryan Loy wrote: > Many thanks to all that replied. I think I can get > the switch out this weekend and find that number. As > always, the list is the greatest! > Bryan > --- Bob wrote: From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu May 8 15:45:54 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 14:45:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission Conversion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We have several local club members with the Toyota box and all seemed quite pleased with that decision, but for me the choice was always to stay with the original and get a rebuilt gearbox & OD from John Esposito: http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=7 At $2750 + $100 shipping it is more than going the other route but it isn't always about money and it just seemed to me to be so much a part of the Brit car experience -- like wire wheels, SU carbs and such. I don't expect to ever have Webers, alloys or a 5-speed transmission but at least there are reliable choices for all of us whichever solution we choose. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Ljung Madison" > > Also, Joe Burlein said: >> I am curious what the big attraction is to going to the Nissan/Toyota 5 >> speed conversion? > > Here's my rundown for the decision. First of all, keep in mind > that the current state of my transmission was non-O.D. and broken, > and my car is a daily driver (with highway use)... From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu May 8 15:53:30 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 22:53:30 +0100 Subject: [TR] THE LEYLAND PAPERS Message-ID: <07ad01c8b155$f4878dc0$0201a8c0@Bevan> I know many are interested in the history of British Leyland and the member companies that made up the whole. In 1971, a highly respected British journalist and author by the name of Graham Turner wrote a superb book about the immediate preceding ten years and all the whys and wherefores about how BL came into being. His book on the subject called *The Leyland Papers* has long been out of print and I managed to get my second copy on ebay a few weeks ago. Another copy - this is a hardback, has come up for auction under this reference 270235430217. I really commend what Turner wrote as I moved within "the corridors of power" in 1972/73 and I can vouch for the accuracy of what he has written. TLP is a must have for anyone interested and there's quite a lot about Triumph as well. Usual blah about NFI - but bid if you want the true FACTS and not the inaccurate woffle that seems to come from other so-called experts. Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 8 16:26:32 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 15:26:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] THE LEYLAND PAPERS In-Reply-To: <07ad01c8b155$f4878dc0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <07ad01c8b155$f4878dc0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <001601c8b15a$91627160$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Another copy - this is a > hardback, has come up for auction under this reference > 270235430217. Notice please that the seller has said he will only ship to the UK. Those not in the UK might want to contact him before piling on the bids. Randall From jmitch at snet.net Thu May 8 20:18:47 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 22:18:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats In-Reply-To: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4823B487.30109@snet.net> Thanks for everyones kind advice on my electrical problem. I've almost gone crazy tracing this thing. I have the rheostat juped out of the circuit. I pull the wood fascia forward, everything works fine. I screw it down, and when the left upper corner screw is all the way in, the fuse lets go. I pull it out, move things around, and it works till I screw it down. I finally have it all the way in and all is ok, but I haven't put the speedometer and tach back in, as I'm out of fuses:( I even tried changing the head light switch. I'll let you guys know if it works when I have all the gauges back in. Obviously, something is pinching somewhere, but I just cant see anything wrong. Thanks again, John Mitchell P.S. I tried those 360 degree red LED lights in the brake sockets, and they are noticeably brighter. I tried white ones in the back up lights, but the result was not as good as the original type bulbs and the color is very blue. Next, I will try the amber lights, and see if they are an improvement. Randall wrote: >> It lasted >> several minutes before the fuse blew. >> > > That would indicate either a slight overload (possibly a wiring mistake to > another load) or (more likely) an intermittent short. Shorts in particular > can be lots of fun to find; I've had this problem several times (on various > non-TR6 cars) and it usually turned out to be a wire that was pinched in the > bodywork somehow. On the Stag, it was the (unused) wire to the gear > indicator pinched under the center console. On my Valiant, it was the wire > to the key illumination pinched in a steering column shroud. If memory > serves, there is a center console light on the later TR6 that could be the > problem. > > Careful inspection is where I would start, but if that doesn't work : Remove > all the bulbs on the circuit and temporarily jumper the fuse with an old > headlight bulb or similar. The bulb will pass some current, but not enough > to damage the wiring. Then use a magnetic compass to track down where the > current goes. Or some places sell a tool that does the same thing. Likely > much better, but I've never tried one. > > Yet another approach is to find a self-resetting circuit breaker (many more > modern cars have these in the power window circuits, should be readily > available at your FLAPS) and jumper the fuse with that. Then feel for the > hot wire. > > Randall From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu May 8 20:29:47 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 22:29:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats In-Reply-To: <4823B487.30109@snet.net> References: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <4823B487.30109@snet.net> Message-ID: <8CA7F93AF02BEF7-968-ED8@webmail-md02.sysops.aol.com> John, Sounds like you have found your problem.? By your own description the problem only occurs when you tighten down the wood fascia.? Sounds like you are pinching a wire somewhere when you tighten things down.? Take a closer look and see what you find. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: John Mitchell To: Randall ; 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:18 pm Subject: Re: [TR] Ruining rheostats Thanks for everyones kind advice on my electrical problem. I've almost gone crazy tracing this thing. I have the rheostat juped out of the circuit. I pull the wood fascia forward, everything works fine. I screw it down, and when the left upper corner screw is all the way in, the fuse lets go. I pull it out, move things around, and it works till I screw it down. I finally have it all the way in and all is ok, but I haven't put the speedometer and tach back in, as I'm out of fuses:( I even tried changing the head light switch. I'll let you guys know if it works when I have all the gauges back in. Obviously, something is pinching somewhere, but I just cant see anything wrong. Thanks again, John Mitchell P.S. I tried those 360 degree red LED lights in the brake sockets, and they are noticeably brighter. I tried white ones in the back up lights, but the result was not as good as the original type bulbs and the color is very blue. Next, I will try the amber lights, and see if they are an improvement. Randall wrote: >> It lasted >> several minutes before the fuse blew. >> > > That would indicate either a slight overload (possibly a wiring mistake to > another load) or (more likely) an intermittent short. Shorts in particular > can be lots of fun to find; I've had this problem several times (on various > non-TR6 cars) and it usually turned out to be a wire that was pinched in the > bodywork somehow. On the Stag, it was the (unused) wire to the gear > indicator pinched under the center console. On my Valiant, it was the wire > to the key illumination pinched in a steering column shroud. If memory > serves, there is a center console light on the later TR6 that could be the > problem. > > Careful inspection is where I would start, but if that doesn't work : Remove > all the bulbs on the circuit and temporarily jumper the fuse with an old > headlight bulb or similar. The bulb will pass some current, but not enough > to damage the wiring. Then use a magnetic compass to track down where the > current goes. Or some places sell a tool that does the same thing. Likely > much better, but I've never tried one. > > Yet another approach is to find a self-resetting circuit breaker (many more > modern cars have these in the power window circuits, should be readily > available at your FLAPS) and jumper the fuse with that. Then feel for the > hot wire. > > Randall _ From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu May 8 21:22:05 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 23:22:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats In-Reply-To: <4823B487.30109@snet.net> References: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <48238B1D.20916.14F28E83@localhost> On 8 May 2008 at 22:18, John Mitchell wrote: > P.S. I tried those 360 degree red LED lights in the brake sockets, What 360 degree red LED lights? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri May 9 08:20:13 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 15:20:13 +0100 Subject: [TR] [6pack] THE LEYLAND PAPERS References: <65297AB0.6E613A11.00159EE9@cs.com> Message-ID: <07ef01c8b1df$cc8e4b80$0201a8c0@Bevan> Sorry for not noting his shipping conditions. My best estimate is P&P to anywhere in the US would be about US$12.00. Email him and ask if he'll meet that requirement Jonmac > DOESNT look like this guy ships to the US. > > I'll continue to keep my eye out for it. > > Joe ALEXANDER > >>I know many are interested in the history of British Leyland and the member companies that made up >>the whole. In 1971, a highly respected British journalist and author by the name of Graham Turner >>wrote a superb book about the immediate preceding ten years and all the whys and wherefores about >>how BL came into being. His book on the subject called *The Leyland Papers* has long been out of >>print and I managed to get my second copy on ebay a few weeks ago. Another copy - this is a >>hardback, has come up for auction under this reference 270235430217. I really commend what Turner >>wrote as I moved within "the corridors of power" in 1972/73 and I can vouch for the accuracy of >>what >>he has written. TLP is a must have for anyone interested and there's quite a lot about Triumph as >>well. Usual blah about NFI - but bid if you want the true FACTS and not the inaccurate woffle that >>seems to come from other so-called experts. >> >>Jonmac >> >> >> >>Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 >>www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk >> >>An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>6pack at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >>http://www.team.net/archive >> >>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From thenicholls at verizon.net Fri May 9 08:32:02 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 09:32:02 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] THE LEYLAND PAPERS Message-ID: <23189507.207061210343522985.JavaMail.root@vms064.mailsrvcs.net> This was the response I got from her: hi there if you are the winning bidder i will parcel the book up and take the book to the post office and get the cheapest way to send to you i dont want to guess the price and overcharge you is that ok best regards julie - allsortts From: John Macartney Date: 2008/05/09 Fri AM 09:20:13 CDT To: triumphs at autox.team.net, N197TR4 at cs.com Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] THE LEYLAND PAPERS Sorry for not noting his shipping conditions. My best estimate is P&P to anywhere in the US would be about US$12.00. Email him and ask if he'll meet that requirement Jonmac > DOESNT look like this guy ships to the US. > > I'll continue to keep my eye out for it. > > Joe ALEXANDER > >>I know many are interested in the history of British Leyland and the member companies that made up >>the whole. In 1971, a highly respected British journalist and author by the name of Graham Turner >>wrote a superb book about the immediate preceding ten years and all the whys and wherefores about >>how BL came into being. His book on the subject called *The Leyland Papers* has long been out of >>print and I managed to get my second copy on ebay a few weeks ago. Another copy - this is a >>hardback, has come up for auction under this reference 270235430217. I really commend what Turner >>wrote as I moved within "the corridors of power" in 1972/73 and I can vouch for the accuracy of >>what >>he has written. TLP is a must have for anyone interested and there's quite a lot about Triumph as >>well. Usual blah about NFI - but bid if you want the true FACTS and not the inaccurate woffle that >>seems to come from other so-called experts. >> >>Jonmac >> >> >> >>Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 >>www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk >> >>An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>6pack at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >>http://www.team.net/archive >> >>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From triumph66 at gmail.com Fri May 9 09:49:51 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 11:49:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] any list members near Dartmouth, Mass Message-ID: I am looking for a list member near Dartmouth, Mass to check out a TR-related Craigslist item. If anyone can help, please contact off list. TIA, Ted L. -- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From tdskip at yahoo.com Fri May 9 10:00:38 2008 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 09:00:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] TR4 sway bar dimensions Message-ID: <410322.32140.qm@web55613.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Hi folks - looking for some help in confirming that a sway bar is correct for a TR4. The seller measured the bar he has and reported back that the bar measured 25.5" from the middle of one bend to the middle of the other. The links are 8.25" from fork to tip of ball. Overall width of the bar at the widest is 36.5". It is 2.875" from end of the ball stud to top of ball. Diameter of the bar is 9/16". Yes/no? Thanks! From mmarr at notwires.com Fri May 9 11:32:34 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 12:32:34 -0500 Subject: [TR] The Green Helmet Message-ID: <00c001c8b1fa$aba8b5c0$6401a8c0@mikeslaptop> Did any of our US members catch "The Green Helmet" on Turner Classic Movies last night? I had never seen it before - it was kind of fun. The plot was a little insipid and some of the acting was pretty poor, but the in-car camera work, filmed at Sebring, Le Mans and the Mille Miglia was great. The movie was made in 1961 and the hero was driving a Jag D-type in the initial scenes, then a Jag-based special, and also a Birdcage Maserati at Sebring. The hero's brother drove a TR3A in one scene and the mechanic (played by Sid James with a very strange Australian accent) drove a very nice looking Herald convertible. Not a great movie, but the camera work kept me up until 11:45 pm, well past my bed-time. The racing scenes at the Mille Miglia, with cars racing at high speed through villages with people lining the streets, totally in harm's way, maybe protected by a couple of straw bales, were eye-opening and quite a contrast to today's world of Safer Barriers etc. Sorry for the off-topic post but there were Triumphs involved, and none were harmed in the course of making the movie! Michael Marr 1960 TR3A 2000 Jag XK8 Plainfield, IL From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri May 9 12:04:04 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 14:04:04 EDT Subject: [TR] The Green Helmet Message-ID: In a message dated 5/9/2008 12:34:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mmarr at notwires.com writes: The racing scenes at the Mille Miglia, with cars racing at high speed through villages with people lining the streets, totally in harm's way, maybe protected by a couple of straw bales, were eye-opening and quite a contrast to today's world of Safer Barriers etc. Yeah, I bet they were all: Blasting, Billowing, Bursting Forth with the Power of Ten Billion Butterfly Sneezes. Moody Blues 1960's **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From pethier at comcast.net Fri May 9 12:05:01 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 18:05:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] The Green Helmet Message-ID: <050920081805.26324.4824924D00003C78000066D422165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Michael Marr" > Did any of our US members catch "The Green Helmet" on Turner Classic Movies > last night? Never saw the movie. Read the book when I was about ten years old. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tedtsimx at bright.net Fri May 9 13:58:14 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 15:58:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Commercial message - Import Carlisle Message-ID: <4824ACD6.8070403@bright.net> Hello list. Just a follow-up to our previous announcement about Import Carlisle. I will be there Thursday afternoon through about 4 pm Saturday, spaces D80 & 81. If there is something you want me to bring along, please let me know. Packing will take place Wednesday so we need any orders as soon as we can. Will have usual stock of stainless steel braid brake lines, gear reduction starters, springs and other suspension components, etc. Also some used engines, including Rover 3.9 short blocks, gearboxes and other "stuff". Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From bzw8 at cdc.gov Fri May 9 15:08:56 2008 From: bzw8 at cdc.gov (Wages, Jeffrey (CDC/CCID/NCPDCID)) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 17:08:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replacement shocks for TR6 tube shock conversion Message-ID: <34DE55E501EFD14A8CCB3DDA5C6F57B32C7DA0@LTA3VS003.ees.hhs.gov> Hi all, Does anyone know the specific KYB model number for the shocks used in the TR6 tube shock conversion kit sold at Victoria British or TRF? The kit is HP221 at TRF sold here: http://www.zeni.net/trf/specials06/23.php?s_wt=1600&s_ht=1200 Or 5-6025 sold at VB here: http://www.victoriabritish.com/ICATALOG/T6/full.aspx?Page=84 Any other brand model number will help as well since I could then cross-reference. Many thanks, Jeff Atlanta '71 & '73 TR6 From leejohn7 at gmail.com Fri May 9 17:20:44 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 16:20:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brake line restrictor valve Message-ID: I've done it again. This time, in the four steps from one bench to another, I lost the tiny valve that sits inside the 4-way connection that, I assume, keeps the front brakes sound if the rear ones spring a leak. No listing, naturally, for a replacement at the usual places. Anyone have a spare valve lying around? I think the system will work fine without the valve, minus the safety feature, correct? Oh - I have a new set of brake lines from TRF, bent to match my old rotted ones. For those of you who want the original mild steel, there is now a pre-bent source. If anyone has questions about the process, send me a question off-list. Thanks John Howard From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 9 18:11:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 17:11:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brake line restrictor valve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02a001c8b232$6e44ca10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I lost the tiny valve that sits inside the 4-way connection > that, I assume, > keeps the front brakes sound if the rear ones spring a leak. Nope, not what it does. Look carefully, it's between the MC and all the brakes. What it does do, in theory, is hold a small amount of pressure in the brakes all the time. This in turn keeps the caliper pistons extended so the pads touch the rotor, even if the rotor wobbles a little due to spindle flex, bearing play, etc. Otherwise, you get a low brake pedal after hard cornering. > No listing, naturally, for a replacement at the usual places. > Anyone have a > spare valve lying around? Happens I do. Write me off-list if you're interested. > I think the system will work fine without the valve, minus the safety > feature, correct? Yup. I deliberately removed the guts of my RPV many years ago (since it also makes the front brakes drag a bit all the time) and I've never regretted it. Takes some really spirited driving to cause the low pedal and then a single pump brings it up where it belongs; so it's not a been problem for me. And I'm anticipating that Uncle Jack's improved spindles and spacers will eliminate the low pedal (but haven't tried it yet). > For those of you who want the original mild steel, No thanks. I already lost one car due to rotted steel lines, so this time around I'm going with the Cunifer lines. Randall From leejohn7 at gmail.com Fri May 9 18:46:40 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 17:46:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brake line restrictor valve In-Reply-To: <02a001c8b232$6e44ca10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <02a001c8b232$6e44ca10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: I found it! Knew I would once I brought the list into the hunt. Thanks Michael and Randall for setting me straight on the valve's function. Of course. I think I'll leave it out, as you suggest, and see how it goes. Thanks for your help. John On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 5:11 PM, Randall wrote: > > I lost the tiny valve that sits inside the 4-way connection > > that, I assume, > > keeps the front brakes sound if the rear ones spring a leak. > > Nope, not what it does. Look carefully, it's between the MC and all the > brakes. > > What it does do, in theory, is hold a small amount of pressure in the > brakes > all the time. This in turn keeps the caliper pistons extended so the pads > touch the rotor, even if the rotor wobbles a little due to spindle flex, > bearing play, etc. Otherwise, you get a low brake pedal after hard > cornering. > > > No listing, naturally, for a replacement at the usual places. > > Anyone have a > > spare valve lying around? > > Happens I do. Write me off-list if you're interested. > > > I think the system will work fine without the valve, minus the safety > > feature, correct? > > Yup. I deliberately removed the guts of my RPV many years ago (since it > also makes the front brakes drag a bit all the time) and I've never > regretted it. Takes some really spirited driving to cause the low pedal > and > then a single pump brings it up where it belongs; so it's not a been > problem > for me. > > And I'm anticipating that Uncle Jack's improved spindles and spacers will > eliminate the low pedal (but haven't tried it yet). > > > For those of you who want the original mild steel, > > No thanks. I already lost one car due to rotted steel lines, so this time > around I'm going with the Cunifer lines. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri May 9 20:12:02 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 22:12:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] clutch tubing Message-ID: <003801c8b243$3d1b4750$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> There was red plastic tubing used between the clutch m/c and slave cylinder when I bought my TR3 (I think it was TR6 line installed by the PO). I figured that some type flexible tubing would still be available. However, my FLAPS told me he did not carry 1/4" hose suitable for brake fluid. So my question is... if this was indeed suitable for the clutch at that time... then why isin't it available today? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 483 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 9 21:17:43 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 20:17:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] clutch tubing In-Reply-To: <003801c8b243$3d1b4750$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080510031744.DFJY28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > So my question is... if this was indeed suitable for the > clutch at that time... then why isin't it available today? Not being available and not found at your FLAPS are two entirely different things, Paul. TRF still sells the TR6 clutch line, so obviously it's available from somewhere. But since so few cars still use plastic clutch line these days (and it might not be suitable for the higher pressures found in brakes), I wouldn't expect to find it at your FLAPS. One downside to the plastic is that it flexes more under pressure than steel does, which leads to a certain amount of lost motion at the pedal. I believe the switch to plastic line is one of the reasons that so many later TRs have trouble with insufficient clutch travel, while it's relatively uncommon on the earlier ones with steel lines. All that said, here's this : http://www.performancebodies.com/store/product.asp?pf%5Fid=PRP89041896&dept% 5Fid=351 Randall From bill_beecher at flash.net Sat May 10 00:59:14 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 00:59:14 -0600 Subject: [TR] SU Parts Message-ID: <002101c8b26b$5c3e7120$6401a8c0@sniffer> And I was having such a great day. Re-built the SU-H6's for the '58 today the found that the float bowl cover on one was cracked. Before I go to the usual suspects to buy a new one, along with a couple of butterfly rods, I thought I would ask the list if anyone has one in their parts stash that they would like to turn into a little cash. The part I need would be Moss #375-068, this is the older style with the banjo fuel inlet, AUC786. I only need the lid and not the needle & seat assembly. Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From banc8004 at comcast.net Sat May 10 02:33:31 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 04:33:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] Suspension bushings redux Message-ID: <50BC6951-AA56-46D3-92FE-CC9DCC9A3739@comcast.net> Carl, This is enormously helpful. Within an hour of your message arriving, I'd just begun to study the Revington catalogue and supplement. Your experience has confirmed for me that Revington is the place to go. Thank you. Brian Message: 2 Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 17:24:45 EDT From: CarlSereda at aol.com Subject: Re: [TR] Suspension bushings redux To: triumphs at autox.team.net Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Brian, FYI: TR4 front suspensions are more difficult to rebuild than TR4A.. In general I like to buy from US vendors as they're closer but sometimes I have to recommend faraway vendors - in this case I recommend RevingtonTR for TR4 suspension parts. Neil Revington promotes using 2 oilite bronze bushes to replace the 1 original softer brass bushing in each A arm. These can be bought from RevingtonTR or your local hardware store and pushed in with a vice - one inserted from each side - leaving 1/8" 'grease groove' inbetween them. No reaming required, and supposedly longer lasting. If your trunnion-threads-to-your-vertical link-threads are in excellent shape, but trunnion shafts are scored and worn as typical, Revington sells new trunnion shafts. A machine shop can easily push out & in the shafts. And only RevingtonTR sells the critical 'one-use only' TR4 cross shaft-end 'thrust washers' - 4 required, for about 2 bucks each (I couldn't get these special washers at the Big 3 vendors in the US - even though they advertised otherwise, costing me time and money). The rubber grease/dust seals (16 required) look great from Revington too (although not proven) - I bought them after my favorite US vendor told me "I might need to replace THEIR rubber seals every year." The Triumph factory spec'd some pretty good rubber and nylon parts for the TR4 suspension in my opinion, as well as the rubber steering rack blocks and rubber/nylon steering column bushes. They did this after some years of trial and error to arrive at a balance of performance and comfort (while reducing stress points like that to the vulnerable and now unavailable steering 'pinion gear'). I wouldn't hesitate trying stock first - unless you know you'll always be pushing for more performance over comfort - and don't mind slightly more road feel and/or wear. Make sure you compare your A-arms to the Workshop Manual specs - they get bent out of spec pretty easy but heat 'n hammer straightens 'em out. Would definitely recommend the factory option anti-sway bar, not sure about the heavier bars as I don't like their 1-bolt hook up versus 2-bolt hookup to those bendy front A-arms! Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ps; I would think front suspension springs would be ok, but shocks would need renewing, rather than other way around.. my front springs measure exactly 10.1" free height, just like the book said they should.. From CarlSereda at aol.com Sat May 10 03:26:45 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 05:26:45 EDT Subject: [TR] Suspension bushings redux Message-ID: Glad to help Brian, Don't know where you're located but again I prefer US vendors, mostly TRF but sometimes one has to go worlwide for what one wants. For instance if I needed the whole trunnions rather than just the shafts I would have bought from TRF to avoid international shipping and currency exchange charges - and all trunnions are probably made by the same manufacturer anyway. The shafts though, are only made by Neil Revington. I bought in 2001 when exchange rate was better. I have spoken with Neil Revington several times - a real nice fellow - owns one, and maintains another, of the 2 of 4 original Triumph Factory 'Works' TR4s. His website's beautiful.. www.revingtontr.com FYI: on my TR4 will be REUSING: 8 thrustwashers, 16 grease seal steel shims, 2 trunnions, 2 vertical link grease seals. REPLACING: 2 trunnion shafts, 8 rubber grease seals, 4 end-thrust washers, 4 shaft nuts (won't be castellated, but rather steel locking nuts instead, as the new shafts are not drilled for cotters), 4 nylon inner lower bushings, 8 upper inner rubber bushings, and the 4 stainless steel tubes that go over the frame's pivot shafts. ps; it was somewhat difficult getting the arms off the trunnions - go slow and be carefull if you want to save the most reuseable pieces - sometimes good originals are better than new. Regards, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 << This is enormously helpful. Within an hour of your message arriving, I'd just begun to study the Revington catalogue and supplement. Your experience has confirmed for me that Revington is the place to go. >>


**************
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(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From jmitch at snet.net Sat May 10 04:38:38 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 06:38:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats Message-ID: <48257B2E.2030002@snet.net> Thanks again to all that helped on this one. I never did find exactly what the cause was(is), but I noted that gauge lights for the speedometer were stretched pretty tight, so I rerouted those. I decided to leave the rheostat jumper in place for now, but added an inline fuse that I can get to easily. Hopefully if the short re-occurs( and you know it will), that fuse will let go and all I'll lose is my gauge lights and not my taillights. I used a 10 amp acg for the inline which should go before the 35 amp Lucas. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From DLylis at aol.com Sat May 10 05:28:13 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 07:28:13 EDT Subject: [TR] clutch tubing Message-ID: Paul, Just as a heads up on that clutch line. When I got my 3A the Slave was a bit funky. I had installed a new slave on my TR6 just prior to puting in the HVDA conversion withthe McLeod hydraulic bearing so I had this slave sitting on the shelf. I put it in my 3A and it works fine but I seem to recall that the thread on the hydraulic fitting from line to slave is not the same. I had to change the fitting on the end of the hose to match the TR6 slave cylinder. Be careful upon reassembly and don't force it. You can't change to a TR6 hose because the other end would then be wrong. This was a couple of years ago and I am pretty sure that is the story. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat May 10 07:16:17 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 09:16:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] How does the L front brake line "S" point? Message-ID: <001801c8b2a0$08d38310$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hi, As many of you know, I am installing a SS brake line on my 60 LHD TR3. I am unsure how to install my last piece which is the Front Left Brake line. More specifically, how it joins the 5-way. As the workshop manual does not show this, although the manual does show the correct routeing for the 5-way. The SS tubing, of course, has 4 lines entering the 5-way. The Left Front brake line goes to the 'forward-most' port of the 5-way. My Classic Tube Pre-Bent Brake Lines have a five-inch "S" curve (where it runs close to the exhaust pipe) which is for this particular brake line only. My question is: DOES THIS "S" STANDUP? LAY FLAT? POINT DOWNWARD? POINT BACKWARD? It maybe that someone has a picture of the "S" curve, which might suffice enough to answer my question. APWKW? (A picture is worth...) Thanks a million, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 484 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Sat May 10 07:50:56 2008 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 09:50:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild Message-ID: <380-220085610135056796@earthlink.net> Hello Jerry, I spent days blasting my seat frames and painting them, sanding the spring inserts and painting them, installing the rubber bottoms, etc. I took my new covers, foams, and hardware to a local upholstery shop and was quoted 8 hours/$600 for the assembly, so I think your estimate is right on. I like rebuilding things, but I hate fussing with upholstery and trying to make things "pretty". I spent a lot of time struggling with the bolster springs on my '71 seats too. I tried having a broken wire welded/brazed, but it broke in the same place while I was installing it. Some guys have had luck taking the wire to an upholsterer and having it copied in spring steel. I finally just bought an entire seat for $30 on eBay and harvested the wire I needed. This is tricky, since it's usually the bottom left wire in the driver's seat that's broken from being bent back and forth while the driver exits/enters the car. I was lucky to find a seat where that hadn't happened. Try to buy a spare from a rust-prone area, where the car died a quick death. Good Luck. I think it's worth it; the '70-'72 seats are harder to rebuild, but much more comfortable than the flat marshmallows they used from '73 on. Cheers, Tom http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat May 10 08:05:44 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 14:05:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A rear leaf springs. In-Reply-To: <02a001c8b232$6e44ca10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <02a001c8b232$6e44ca10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: I need to add a leaf or two to my rear springs. I want the two shortestest leaves for both sides of the car. Does anyone have any leaves I can get for a nominal price? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Get Free (PRODUCT) RED Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics. http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008 From terryrs at comcast.net Sat May 10 08:25:59 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 14:25:59 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Rebuild Message-ID: <051020081425.21622.4825B077000282F00000547622147564029C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I actually had pretty good results rebuilding the seats on my '59 TR3A by cutting out the springs that had rusted through and lacing in fresh springs haravested from an old mattress. Cleaned the springs with Simple Green, soaked them in Phosphoric Acid, rinsed well, and painted with POR 15. The rebuilt springs look original, will last forever, compared to the original ones, and ride as firm or soft as you want depending on the stiffness of the springs you add. Top layered everything with ample felt and high density foam, then installed an upholstery kit from TRF. The hardest part of the whole thing had nothing to do with the seats themselves, but rather manufacturing the curved strips of wood to replace the ones that had rotted off the frames. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hamsphire -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Tomislav Marincic" > Hello Jerry, > > I spent days blasting my seat frames and painting them, sanding the spring > inserts and painting them, installing the rubber bottoms, etc. I took my new > covers, foams, and hardware to a local upholstery shop and was quoted 8 > hours/$600 for the assembly, so I think your estimate is right on. I like > rebuilding things, but I hate fussing with upholstery and trying to make things > "pretty". > > I spent a lot of time struggling with the bolster springs on my '71 seats too. I > tried having a broken wire welded/brazed, but it broke in the same place while I > was installing it. Some guys have had luck taking the wire to an upholsterer and > having it copied in spring steel. I finally just bought an entire seat for $30 > on eBay and harvested the wire I needed. This is tricky, since it's usually the > bottom left wire in the driver's seat that's broken from being bent back and > forth while the driver exits/enters the car. I was lucky to find a seat where > that hadn't happened. Try to buy a spare from a rust-prone area, where the car > died a quick death. > > Good Luck. I think it's worth it; the '70-'72 seats are harder to rebuild, but > much more comfortable than the flat marshmallows they used from '73 on. > > Cheers, Tom > > > http://www.triumphowners.com/735 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From thebujas at comcast.net Sat May 10 08:53:10 2008 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 09:53:10 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats In-Reply-To: Message-ID: John Mitchell wrote: > I used a 10 amp acg for the inline which > should go before the 35 amp Lucas. John Mitchell 76 TR6 This should be about the right size. Remember, Lucas and AGC fuses are rated in different methods: The number usually found on Lucas fuses is the continuous fusing current which is twice the continuous amp rating that the system should be using. The Lucas "35A" fuse will carry 17.5 amps continuously and is supposed to blow at 35 amps continuous and 40 amps instantaneous. This is an IEC standard. 3AG fuses are rated to a UL/CSA standard. >From the Bussman catalog: 3AG ELECTRICAL CHARACTERISTICS: % of Ampere Ampere Opening Rating Rating Time 110% 1/32-35 4 hours, Minimum 135% 1/32-35 1 hour, Maximum 200% 1/32-10 5 sec., Maximum 12-30 10 sec., Maximum 35 20 sec., Maximum >From the chart, the 10 AGC fuse will take 4 hours to blow at 11 amps, 1 hour at 13.5 amps, and five seconds at 20 amps. This should give you good fuse coordination with the 35A Lucas fuse rated for 17.5 amps that is controlling the circuit. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From wbeech at flash.net Sat May 10 09:24:37 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 09:24:37 -0600 Subject: [TR] How does the L front brake line "S" point? In-Reply-To: <001801c8b2a0$08d38310$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001801c8b2a0$08d38310$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000301c8b2b1$f6730df0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Paul, I just put my lines on a couple of weeks ago, and no engine yet but that's another story, I'll snap a picture or two for you this morning and send an attachment off-line. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 7:16 AM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] How does the L front brake line "S" point? Hi, As many of you know, I am installing a SS brake line on my 60 LHD TR3. I am unsure how to install my last piece which is the Front Left Brake line. More specifically, how it joins the 5-way. As the workshop manual does not show this, although the manual does show the correct routeing for the 5-way. The SS tubing, of course, has 4 lines entering the 5-way. The Left Front brake line goes to the 'forward-most' port of the 5-way. My Classic Tube Pre-Bent Brake Lines have a five-inch "S" curve (where it runs close to the exhaust pipe) which is for this particular brake line only. My question is: DOES THIS "S" STANDUP? LAY FLAT? POINT DOWNWARD? POINT BACKWARD? It maybe that someone has a picture of the "S" curve, which might suffice enough to answer my question. APWKW? (A picture is worth...) Thanks a million, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 484 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From brad.kahler at 141.com Sat May 10 11:52:39 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 10:52:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cloth car cover In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4825E0E7.3070703@141.com> List, I'd like to thank everyone for their suggestions on what car cover to use. I'm still hoping to find an indoor storage space for the car but if I don't I'll post what I ended up buying. Thanks again! Brad BearTranserv at aol.com wrote: > I used a similar cover for the TR4 for 5 or so years...the cover rotted and > the sand and wind we have so much of in El Paso got under the cover and > "sanded" a few spots down to the metal. You definitely don't want the cover to > touch the car if you can help it. Your weather may vary enough for this not to > be a concern however. > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico > > 63 TR4 > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg > carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, > perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced > hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and > adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the shop manual. > Dan McKay > > > > > > In a message dated 5/1/2008 6:59:10 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, > jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > > For maybe 5 years I used one of the high-tech-fabric covers from > California Car Cover, From brad.kahler at 141.com Sat May 10 11:54:19 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 10:54:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] cad / chrome platers in Los Angeles area Message-ID: <4825E14B.2040301@141.com> For those of you living in the Southern California area I'm looking to have some Roadster pieces chromed and also cad plated and would like to find a plating outfit. Close to Pasadena would be nice but not a necessity. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Brad From mrv8q at aim.com Sat May 10 18:49:27 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 20:49:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trailing arm studs Message-ID: <8CA8117FFCEC977-FB8-1129@webmail-ne02.sysops.aol.com> Hello, what is the list's recommendation on replacing the 6 studs into the TA assembly? Finger tight, tighter, any use of Loctite, any other suggestions..... Thanks!B Best, Kevin Browne '74 TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat May 10 20:10:17 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 22:10:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trailing arm studs In-Reply-To: <8CA8117FFCEC977-FB8-1129@webmail-ne02.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA8117FFCEC977-FB8-1129@webmail-ne02.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000401c8b30c$2a59b240$210110ac@bobspc> Kevin, Having stripped a thread.....I go by feel. If you replace the threads with Keen-Serts or Heli-Coils, you can crank them down as much as you want. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mrv8q at aim.com Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 8:49 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Trailing arm studs Hello, what is the list's recommendation on replacing the 6 studs into the TA assembly? Finger tight, tighter, any use of Loctite, any other suggestions..... Thanks!B Best, Kevin Browne '74 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.14/1425 - Release Date: 5/9/2008 12:38 PM From DLylis at aol.com Sat May 10 20:32:54 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 22:32:54 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A rear leaf springs. Message-ID: Tom, I have replaced the springs on my 3A and have the originals. How quickly do you need them? I am not all that anxious to take them apart so I would send the whole springs. Let me know where you are so I can check out shipping and we can agree on a price when we know the cost of shipping. David David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From DLylis at aol.com Sat May 10 20:38:53 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 22:38:53 EDT Subject: [TR] How does the L front brake line "S" point? Message-ID: Paul, On my car, and I am assuming it is correct as everything has gone together and fits, the forward most is for the pressure switch. The brake line connects to the one that points at the left front wheel. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun May 11 07:34:34 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 09:34:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party Message-ID: I see on the weekly TRF email that they are pushing for registrations. I guess as of now there are not enough people signed up to have the Summer Party so if you are thinking about attending you might want to sign up. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ messenger_052008 From terryrs at comcast.net Sun May 11 07:35:57 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 13:35:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] Valve adjusting nuts Message-ID: <051120081335.19229.4826F63D00044EA400004B1D22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Am I missing something? The valve adjusting nuts on the TR3A rocker arms seem a bit small for a half inch wrench, yet don't fit metric either. Every time I adjust the valves, I bugger up the corners of the nuts a bit more. I'd like to replace them with new from a local supplier if possible, just to save shipping. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From spamiam at comcast.net Sun May 11 09:12:48 2008 From: spamiam at comcast.net (Anthony Rhodes) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:12:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ruining rheostats Message-ID: <001601c8b379$79a43b00$6501a8c0@p4server> Tim, thanks for adding this info. Until I knew about this difference between Lucas and US fuses, I always thought of US fuses as blowing instantly at anything above the rated current value. I suppose that one could think of the US fuses as somewhat "slow-blow" compared to the Lucas versions. Once I realized that there was a difference, I just use the factor of 2 as an approximation of the conversion of one to the other. I guess I would find the US rating system as making more sense. It follows the pattern that your wiring harness will melt in an overload situation. A little overload will only slowly fry the wires, so you do not need the fuse to blow instantly. A major overload (2X?) will heat the harness fast and needs to have the fuse let go PDQ. -Tony P.S. The English wire sizes (by # of strands) is helpful for calculating the current capacity. It is generally about 0.5A per strand. __________________________________________________________________________ Original message: >Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 09:53:10 -0500 >From: "Ann and Tim Buja" >Subject: Re: [TR] Ruining rheostats >To: >Message-ID: >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >John Mitchell wrote: > >> I used a 10 amp acg for the inline which >> should go before the 35 amp Lucas. John Mitchell 76 TR6 > >This should be about the right size. Remember, Lucas and AGC fuses are >rated in different methods: > >The number usually found on Lucas fuses is the continuous fusing current >which is twice the continuous amp rating that the system should be using. >The Lucas "35A" fuse will carry 17.5 amps continuously and is supposed to >blow at 35 amps continuous and 40 amps instantaneous. This is an IEC >standard. > >3AG fuses are rated to a UL/CSA standard. >>From the Bussman catalog: >3AG ELECTRICAL CHARACTERISTICS: >% of Ampere Ampere Opening >Rating Rating Time >110% 1/32-35 4 hours, Minimum >135% 1/32-35 1 hour, Maximum >200% 1/32-10 5 sec., Maximum >12-30 10 sec., Maximum >35 20 sec., Maximum > >>From the chart, the 10 AGC fuse will take 4 hours to blow at 11 amps, 1 hour >at 13.5 amps, and five seconds at 20 amps. This should give you good fuse >coordination with the 35A Lucas fuse rated for 17.5 amps that is controlling >the circuit. > >Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun May 11 09:31:08 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:31:08 EDT Subject: [TR] TRF Summer Party Message-ID: In a message dated 5/11/2008 7:34:54 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: I see on the weekly TRF email that they are pushing for registrations. I guess as of now there are not enough people signed up to have the Summer Party so if you are thinking about attending you might want to sign up. Marty If you could only attend one day, what day would you go????????????? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From jmitch at snet.net Sun May 11 09:51:27 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:51:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Green stuff brake pads Message-ID: <482715FF.5070809@snet.net> I just replaced my old green stuff brake pads with new ones. Then new ones came with what is called a break in coating and rubber type anti squeal pads that are applied to the back. With the old ones I used the steel anti squeal shims. I just went for a ride and I can hear them lightly scuffing the sides if disc which goes away with increasing speed. I never noticed this with the old pads when new. There's no squeal, just the scuffing sound. Is this the sound of the break in coating and does it just have to be driven a while for it to go away? Thanks again, John Mitchell 76 Tr6 From mrv8q at aim.com Sun May 11 10:19:44 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 12:19:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trailing arm studs In-Reply-To: <000401c8b30c$2a59b240$210110ac@bobspc> References: <8CA8117FFCEC977-FB8-1129@webmail-ne02.sysops.aol.com> <000401c8b30c$2a59b240$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <8CA8199F4D2F8D1-7D8-1FC4@webmail-nd14.sysops.aol.com> Having stripped a thread.....I go by feel. If you replace the threads with Keen-Serts or Heli-Coils, you can crank them down as much as you want. Thanks, Randall and Bob! Thankfully, the threads all look pretty good.... only one buggered up stud from the DPO. I still wonder how they put these in at the factory. No marks on the "meat" partB of the stud. They must use non-toothed Vice grips, or am I using the wrong tool to put them in? Best, Kevin From triumphstag at gmail.com Sun May 11 10:55:17 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 09:55:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo Message-ID: Can some one point me to a free sofware where I can mark up a digital photo? I want to put arrows and text on the photo of some stag bits. Thanks, Sujit From tr6parts at charter.net Sun May 11 11:34:24 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 13:34:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] increase compression Message-ID: <000901c8b38d$41b2d9e0$2bd90c47@alan> On a 76 TR6 motor is it best to shave the head or block to increase compression? Thanks Al From jholmgren at advertising.com Sun May 11 13:38:23 2008 From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 15:38:23 -0400 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106B9053DC2@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Try "The Gimp". http://www.gimp.org/ Jim '68 Spitfire Mk3 '75 Spitfire 1500 '77 Spitfire 1500 NASS #302 York, PA www.littlebluespitfire.com The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun May 11 14:38:50 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 16:38:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trailing arm studs In-Reply-To: <8CA8199F4D2F8D1-7D8-1FC4@webmail-nd14.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA8117FFCEC977-FB8-1129@webmail-ne02.sysops.aol.com><000401c8b30c$2a59b240$210110ac@bobspc> <8CA8199F4D2F8D1-7D8-1FC4@webmail-nd14.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000301c8b3a7$06950940$210110ac@bobspc> Kevin, Just jam two nuts together real tight and then use them to screw the stud back into the trailing arm. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mrv8q at aim.com Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 12:20 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Trailing arm studs Having stripped a thread.....I go by feel. If you replace the threads with Keen-Serts or Heli-Coils, you can crank them down as much as you want. Thanks, Randall and Bob! Thankfully, the threads all look pretty good.... only one buggered up stud from the DPO. I still wonder how they put these in at the factory. No marks on the "meat" partB of the stud. They must use non-toothed Vice grips, or am I using the wrong tool to put them in? Best, Kevin This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.15/1426 - Release Date: 5/10/2008 11:12 AM From maya2blue at juno.com Sun May 11 14:39:52 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 15:39:52 -0500 Subject: [TR] Spitfire - map light bulb Message-ID: <20080511.153953.5088.1.maya2blue@juno.com> Greetings, I am trying to find a bulb for the '78 Spitifire map light. Situated in and to the top of the passanger side parcel shelf, the map reading light appears on several wiring diagrams but I cannot find the correct bulb number. I would certainly appreciated any help that anyone might be able to offer! Many thanks. Best!! Harve Harve Thorn ('78 1500 Spitfire) 531 Amen Corner (NASS #79) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun May 11 15:45:07 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:45:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200805111745.07638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 11 May 2008 12:55 pm, sujit roy wrote: > Can some one point me to a free sofware where I can mark up a digital > photo? I want to put arrows and text on the photo of some stag bits. > > Thanks, Sujit Sujit, You can try GIMP. Not sure if it works on windoz. I have it on Linux and it is a great digital editor. www.gimp.org Bob From jholmgren at advertising.com Sun May 11 16:08:22 2008 From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 18:08:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo In-Reply-To: <200805111745.07638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200805111745.07638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106B9053DC3@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com> Bob, Yep, there is a Windows package for The GIMP. We use it at work a lot - it is a great (free) alternative to Photoshop. http://gimp-win.sourceforge.net/stable.html Jim '68 Spitfire Mk3 '75 Spitfire 1500 '77 Spitfire 1500 NASS #302 York, PA www.littlebluespitfire.com The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s) or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email from any computer. From triumphstag at gmail.com Sun May 11 16:09:08 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 15:09:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo In-Reply-To: <200805111745.07638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200805111745.07638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Thanks, It looks quite sophisticated, more than what I need it for. I downloaded it for Windows Sujit On 5/11/08, Bob Labuz wrote: > > On Sunday 11 May 2008 12:55 pm, sujit roy wrote: > > Can some one point me to a free sofware where I can mark up a digital > > photo? I want to put arrows and text on the photo of some stag bits. > > > > Thanks, Sujit > Sujit, > > You can try GIMP. Not sure if it works on windoz. I have it on Linux and it > is > a great digital editor. > www.gimp.org > > > > Bob From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun May 11 16:30:37 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 18:30:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <48273B4D.20368.235ACA9F@localhost> On 11 May 2008 at 9:55, sujit roy wrote: > Can some one point me to a free sofware where I can mark up a > digital photo? I want to put arrows and text on the photo of > some stag bits. If you one of the later versions of Winders, f'rexample XP, right- click on it and select Edit. It should bring up Paint. You can draw arrows manually, especially in a zoom level (try Cntrl-PageDown first or go to View/Zoom), and you can add text easily. Don't need anything more just to add text and arrows. You can choose what format to save it. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun May 11 16:14:43 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 18:14:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Valve adjusting nuts In-Reply-To: <051120081335.19229.4826F63D00044EA400004B1D22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <051120081335.19229.4826F63D00044EA400004B1D22120207849C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <200805111814.43481.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 11 May 2008 09:35 am, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Am I missing something? The valve adjusting nuts on the TR3A rocker arms > seem a bit small for a half inch wrench, yet don't fit metric either. > Every time I adjust the valves, I bugger up the corners of the nuts a bit > more. I'd like to replace them with new from a local supplier if possible, > just to save shipping. > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire Terry, Try using a 6 point box wrench. 1/2 " is the correct size. Bob From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun May 11 16:58:30 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 18:58:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c8b3ba$898dce00$210110ac@bobspc> There's a few out there that are really good. http://www.faststone.org/index.htm http://www.irfanview.com/ http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/family/ I think Photoshop Express is now a freebie Or just go to Download.com and search on photo editing programs and then pick a free one Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sujit roy Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 12:55 PM To: Triumphs Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo Can some one point me to a free sofware where I can mark up a digital photo? I want to put arrows and text on the photo of some stag bits. Thanks, Sujit This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.15/1426 - Release Date: 5/10/2008 11:12 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 11 19:16:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 18:16:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo In-Reply-To: <48273B4D.20368.235ACA9F@localhost> Message-ID: <20080512011659.LQGF15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > If you one of the later versions of Winders, f'rexample XP, > right- click on it and select Edit. It should bring up > Paint. MS Paint has been around since at least Win 3.1 ... However ISTR on the earlier versions, you had to install a graphics filter to handle the JPEG format used by most digital cameras. Pretty crude, but it does work, sort of. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun May 11 20:02:47 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 22:02:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] I'm looking for a free program where I can mark up a digital photo In-Reply-To: <20080512011659.LQGF15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <48273B4D.20368.235ACA9F@localhost> Message-ID: <48276D07.28260.241D0622@localhost> On 11 May 2008 at 18:16, Randall wrote: > However ISTR on the earlier versions, you had to install a > graphics filter to handle the JPEG format used by most > digital cameras. >From XP on, I think, it has been able to open and save jpgs, gifs, tiff, png, ico (icons) as well as bitmaps. Yes it is primitive, but that makes it the preferred tool for me for some tasks. I have Printshop Pro X (paid for and legit, I might add), a wonderful graphics tool, but some things call out for simplicity! Or primitivity. Or something. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon May 12 01:03:29 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 00:03:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Can anyone please help me identify these LUCAS part no? Message-ID: I have some stag side marker reflectors lenses that came in two separate LUCAS boxes. The lenses are the same, but the no. on each box is different I have ONE LENS 54582801 7/71 and ONE LENS 54582782 7/71. Is it possible that the boxes got mixed up and one reflector was meant to be amber while the other red? While I'm at it, I have another reflector ONE LENS ASSY 54570803 8 69 which also looks the same. Any clues? Thanks, Sujit From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon May 12 14:02:14 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 16:02:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Light Switch Message-ID: <000701c8b46b$1471ecd0$210110ac@bobspc> I just noticed that my brake lights don't turn off......unless I pull the pedal back that last 1/8" with my foot. When I stick my head in the foot well, press & release the pedal, I can feel that it wants to come back that last smidge which is what turns the lights off. The spring is good. The only thing different is a rebuilt servo. Does this indicate a bad or failing switch? I remember a thread on here last year about a better quality replacement switch. I think it was from a Honda. Does anyone have the info on that? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From davidt at opentext.com Mon May 12 14:57:30 2008 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 16:57:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] OT-powdercoating question Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB4AFC@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Afternoon all, Slightly off-topic question, I have a set of alloy wheels for a jeep. The "pretty" clearcoat is messed and I was thinking of getting the rest taken off, clean up the slight surface corrosion, then have then powder-coated. To the masses that are more experienced, can I do this? Will the alloy hold up? There are no thin deleicate components to the rims. Or would I be better off getting them cleaned up and just painting? Thanks David Templeton '59 tr3a '74 spitsix (Both in temporary custody of the ex :-( ). From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Mon May 12 16:02:26 2008 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 23:02:26 +0100 Subject: [TR] Brake Light Switch In-Reply-To: <000701c8b46b$1471ecd0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080512215211.A372D18764A@autox.team.net> > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Bob Danielson > > I just noticed that my brake lights don't turn off......unless I pull the > pedal back that last 1/8" with my foot. When I stick my head in the foot > well, press & release the pedal, I can feel that it wants to come back > that > last smidge which is what turns the lights off. The spring is good. Is this the internal spring in the switch, or the main pedal return spring? The latter often breaks and is never replaced, leaving the internal master cylinder spring to do all the work. The master cylinder spring won't return the pedal to it's proper rest position, and that spring itself will become fatigued in tome if the pedal spring isn't there to do it's share of the work. The pedal resting on the brake light switch is often the first symptom to be noticed, no such advanced warning with the clutch spring! Cheers, Bill. From thebujas at comcast.net Mon May 12 16:34:33 2008 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 17:34:33 -0500 Subject: [TR] Can anyone please help me identify these LUCAS part no? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Sujit Roy wrote: > I have some stag side marker reflectors lenses that came in > two separate LUCAS boxes. The lenses are the same, but the > no. on each box is different. I have ONE LENS 54582801 7/71 > and ONE LENS 54582782 7/71. Is it possible that the boxes > got mixed up and one reflector was meant to be amber while > the other red? > > While I'm at it, I have another reflector ONE LENS ASSY > 54570803 8 69 which also looks the same. ------------------------------ A Google search on 54582782 lucas yields the following page: which yields a listing of: Alternative Part Number Description Added By Lucas - 54582782 Rear Sidemarker Reflector Dave redfern Google didn't find anything for the two other part numbers you listed. FWIW, the rear side marker lenses on my 73 Stag are marked as follows: Lamp lens Reflector lens --------- ---------------- LUCAS LUCAS 4.8 L829 BS 2515 * GRADE 1 SAE P168 SAE A 68 ENGLAND ENGLAND The * represents the British Standards stylized BS logo And after 31 years after the Stag ended production, it's probably safe to assume that the lens boxes may have been mixed up... Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Mon May 12 16:45:26 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:45:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Alternate Connecting Rods References: Message-ID: <020d01c8b481$df2872d0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Boy, that is NEAT!!!! I am always amazed at the ingenuity of the folks on this list ... I'm guessing I didn't look closely enough in my enthusiasm to find a GM rod for the TR6! I wonder if anyone else has done the legwork to look at alternate rods for the 6-cylinder engine? ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: N197TR4 at cs.com To: triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 6:38 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] It runs! In a message dated 5/12/2008 5:05:50 PM Central Daylight Time, triumph at 2simpleusa.com writes: Joe, I'm intrigued by the reference to the GM connecting rods ... which ones can be used in a TR6? Thanks, Good question. I am not aware of any research into alternative rods. for TR6. This is for the TR3/4 Rods that are 6.250 on centers Pin bushing is changed to .875 Thrust washers are made for pin end to centralize the rod with the piston. Crank is reground to match Chevy Rod Clevite 777 shells. Certainly cheaper than Carillos and quite adequate for the HP & RPM requirements. I thought it was a pretty clever thing to do. With the help of Uncle Jack. Joe Alexander the-vintage-racer.com From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk Mon May 12 16:59:15 2008 From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 23:59:15 +0100 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Frame swap on Spitfire In-Reply-To: <40C1ED44-6D29-4C84-982E-6F399B94964B@ucalgary.ca> Message-ID: <20080512224858.6E11A187667@autox.team.net> > [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Robert Rutherford > > Hi all, I have perforation rust in the rear frame rails of my 78 > Spitfire. Am stripping an older frame (unknown year but has 6 leaf > rear spring) for bead blasting and POR-15 painting. > Can anyone confirm my belief that all Spitfire frames are > interchangeable? Not strictly true. While the basic frame is the same, the front bar and bonnet pivot points were substantially different on the roundtail cars, ie all those cars with the fixed rear spring. The frames can be converted, but why bother when later frames are readily available? There were also detail changes to the frame where the wider exhaust twin downpipe of the 1500 passes. Additionally, late US cars had frame extensions for additional crash protection under the boot (trunk) floor. These were never fitted to home market cars, they are not a structural necessity - it's your call whether their absence bothers you, Cheers, Bill. From spitlist at cox.net Mon May 12 16:54:53 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 15:54:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Frame swap on Spitfire In-Reply-To: <40C1ED44-6D29-4C84-982E-6F399B94964B@ucalgary.ca> References: <40C1ED44-6D29-4C84-982E-6F399B94964B@ucalgary.ca> Message-ID: <000001c8b483$31616100$0202a8c0@newcomputer> A little known fact is that from the first Mk1 Frame through the last 1500 and even including all of the GT6 frames they were all serial numbered consecutively with the FC prefix. That in itself tells you a lot about the interchangeability. But it does not tell the whole story. The later frames have rear extensions that were added to comply with safety requirements. In addition some other slight differences (like cutouts in the right frame rail in the engine compartment for exhaust clearance and several modifications to accommodate engine and radiator mounts as well as rotoflex accommodations) were made throughout the years. But in general the frames should be interchangeable, especially from one Spitfire to another. The one you are using is probably from an early (Mk1 through Mk3) Spit based on your description of the rear spring. If it were me, I'd use the 6 leaf fixed spring because I so vehemently hate that swing-spring KLUGE that Triumph used in the square tail models. But that's just me. Cheers, Joe -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Rutherford Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:17 PM To: Digest Spitfire; Digest Triumphs Subject: [Spits] Frame swap on Spitfire Hi all, I have perforation rust in the rear frame rails of my 78 Spitfire. Am stripping an older frame (unknown year but has 6 leaf rear spring) for bead blasting and POR-15 painting. Can anyone confirm my belief that all Spitfire frames are interchangeable? I understand that the 12 coil front spring from this frame might be advisable for lowering the front end and improving handling as opposed to the 11 coil used on the 1500. I will of course use the swing spring from my 78 along with a Monroe air lift shock kit at the rear. Any insight into what might be wrong with this plan is welcome. TIA, Robert Rutherford in Vernon, BC White 78 Spitfire with rusty frame. Red 76 Spitfire waiting in the wings (or is that waiting in the fenders?) Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From allegrorover at mac.com Mon May 12 16:56:23 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 17:56:23 -0500 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <3408B27A-E6C7-4358-94A6-A5F1B2BF0894@mac.com> test From spitlist at cox.net Mon May 12 17:32:39 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 16:32:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Frame swap on Spitfire In-Reply-To: <20080512224858.6E11A187667@autox.team.net> References: <40C1ED44-6D29-4C84-982E-6F399B94964B@ucalgary.ca> <20080512224858.6E11A187667@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000c01c8b488$77a086a0$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Right on target Bill. I forgot about the hinge points in my post. Those are the most obvious differences in Spitfire frames and very likely are different on the one he is planning to use. But if that part is ok from the frame he is replacing, he can certainly cut that off and weld onto the donor frame. -----Original Message----- From: spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:spitfires-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Davies Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 3:59 PM To: 'Robert Rutherford'; 'Digest Spitfire'; 'Digest Triumphs' Subject: Re: [Spits] Frame swap on Spitfire > [mailto:spitfires-bounces+bill=rarebits4classics.co.uk at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Robert Rutherford > > Hi all, I have perforation rust in the rear frame rails of my 78 > Spitfire. Am stripping an older frame (unknown year but has 6 leaf > rear spring) for bead blasting and POR-15 painting. > Can anyone confirm my belief that all Spitfire frames are > interchangeable? Not strictly true. While the basic frame is the same, the front bar and bonnet pivot points were substantially different on the roundtail cars, ie all those cars with the fixed rear spring. The frames can be converted, but why bother when later frames are readily available? There were also detail changes to the frame where the wider exhaust twin downpipe of the 1500 passes. Additionally, late US cars had frame extensions for additional crash protection under the boot (trunk) floor. These were never fitted to home market cars, they are not a structural necessity - it's your call whether their absence bothers you, Cheers, Bill. Spitfires at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires http://www.team.net/archive From fishplate at charter.net Mon May 12 17:54:08 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 19:54:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Brake Light Switch In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149E2@GVW0414X.americ as.hpqcorp.net> References: <000701c8b46b$1471ecd0$210110ac@bobspc> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149E2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <20080512235405.UHFH4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 06:51 PM 5/12/2008, Foster, Stan wrote: >Bob, Re the switch, below is one recent thread. I tried to buy one of these SL >310's the other day at my local NAPA store in Nashua, NH. They wanted over $20 I don't know if the TR6 switch is the same as the Spitfire, but here's some parts to check, from : brake light switch: 73 Chevy Nova switch Go to ANY Auto Parts store and ask for a 73 (non-cruise control) Chevy Nova switch. They make two, one that is metal and the other is plastic. Less than $10.00. It works great but you do need to shave off part of the threads, like it is on the OEM unit, so it will fit. Datsun 310 Brake light switch fits without modification 1977-1981 Chevy Luv Truck Direct replacement but will have to crimp new ends on it. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From PeterSchop at aol.com Mon May 12 19:27:43 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 21:27:43 EDT Subject: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket Message-ID: While I have the body off the frame on my TR6, I thought I would try to tackle some of the oil leaks starting with the oil pan gasket. When I bought the car a couple of years ago, the PO told me that one of the oil pan bolts was striped out. I will find out soon which one. What is the best way to replace the pan gasket and what kind of gaskets are out there. Is there a silicone gasket or should I just buy a standard gasket from TRF or Moss? Is Hylomar the best sealant to use? TIA, Peter Schoppelry TR6 '69 **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon May 12 20:26:42 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:26:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000701c8b4a0$cb3c8fd0$210110ac@bobspc> Peter, I used the stock gasket with Ultra-black on each side. At the front and back, the bolts go into an aluminum block that is prone to stripping. You might want to insert Keene-Serts or Heli-coils to get a good tight seal. Having said all of that I doubt we can ever prevent oil from seeping out of our engines. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PeterSchop at aol.com Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:28 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket While I have the body off the frame on my TR6, I thought I would try to tackle some of the oil leaks starting with the oil pan gasket. When I bought the car a couple of years ago, the PO told me that one of the oil pan bolts was striped out. I will find out soon which one. What is the best way to replace the pan gasket and what kind of gaskets are out there. Is there a silicone gasket or should I just buy a standard gasket from TRF or Moss? Is Hylomar the best sealant to use? TIA, Peter Schoppelry TR6 '69 **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1427 - Release Date: 5/11/2008 1:08 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon May 12 21:24:33 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 23:24:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket In-Reply-To: <000701c8b4a0$cb3c8fd0$210110ac@bobspc> References: Message-ID: <4828D1B1.31462.298E3DD4@localhost> On 12 May 2008 at 22:26, Bob Danielson wrote: > I doubt we can ever prevent oil from seeping out of > our engines. Surely you wouldn't want to. It's an external lubrication system. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon May 12 22:10:17 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 21:10:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] Hylomar available at Harbor Freight Message-ID: <71BF4A5CCB6B42839765F11AEA48800C@GeoPC> Subject liine says it all. While looking for something else was surprised to see Hylomar for sale -- $4.97 for the usual tube. Yes, I checked -- still made in the UK. And I thought everything at HF was made in China. Geo From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue May 13 04:21:17 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 06:21:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket References: <000701c8b4a0$cb3c8fd0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <08a701c8b4e3$15b2bbb0$6401a8c0@STATION6> As an additional thought to Bob's answer, after flattening/straightening all the bolt/screw holes in the pan, apply the Ultra-black to the pan and place the gasket on. Center accordingly and let sit over night until the silicone seals. This approach sets the gasket firm to the pan so you can easily move it and place it when ready. Then apply a bead to the block and attach making sure to torque to proper settings. This approach has been spelled out on the Buckeye site (I believe) for valve cover gaskets and works exceptionally well. I've used it for both gaskets on both my cars. It is much cleaner and will minimize the mess. Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket > Peter, > I used the stock gasket with Ultra-black on each side. At the front and > back, the bolts go into an aluminum block that is prone to stripping. You > might want to insert Keene-Serts or Heli-coils to get a good tight seal. > Having said all of that I doubt we can ever prevent oil from seeping out > of > our engines. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of PeterSchop at aol.com > Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:28 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket > > While I have the body off the frame on my TR6, I thought I would try to > tackle some of the oil leaks starting with the oil pan gasket. When I > bought > the car a couple of years ago, the PO told me that one of the oil pan > bolts > was striped out. I will find out soon which one. > > What is the best way to replace the pan gasket and what kind of gaskets > are > out there. Is there a silicone gasket or should I just buy a standard > gasket > from TRF or Moss? Is Hylomar the best sealant to use? > > TIA, > Peter Schoppelry > TR6 '69 From DLylis at aol.com Tue May 13 04:45:55 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 06:45:55 EDT Subject: [TR] 3A brake lights Message-ID: Before I put my pedal box back in I am going to install a brake light switch much the same as is used on a TR6. The pressure switch on my car is quite funky. If you press the pedal a little, the lights come on a little. If you press the pedal a lot, the lights come on a lot. In addition to this upgrade, what replacement bulbs are recommended for brighter signalling to the rear? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From jmitch at snet.net Tue May 13 05:00:03 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:00:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] red 360 degree LED stop/tail lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <482974B3.8020902@snet.net> As an update to this, I tried the amber bulbs in my turn signals. As reported earlier, there's not enough resistance to operate the turn signal flasher, so an electronic type would have to be used. There really was no improvement in brightness anyway, just a lighter colored yellow. Not worth it in my opinion. John Mitchell 76 TR6 im sloane wrote: > Hey guys, > Today I received my ordered Red 360 degree 1157 LED bulbs. What a great little > upgrade. Very much brighter and fills up the lens great. In preparation I > cleaned all the lenses this past weekend for the first time in 20 years. I'm > sure they'd be even better if I were to paint the inside shell silver or > chrome. Mine are just white, now that 20 years of oil/smoke residue is > removed. Don't pay too much for these. I got them for $5/ea buy-it-now price. > I love a great 'hidden' upgrade like this. > > Sloane :) > 69-Six From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 13 08:32:26 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:32:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] 3A brake lights In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080513143226.ERDY720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > In addition to > this upgrade, what replacement bulbs are recommended for > brighter signalling to the rear? If you want to stay with conventional bulbs, a 2357 is about 25% brighter (on the brake filament) but draws only slightly more current than the stock tail/stop bulb. I've heard bad things about halogen tail/stop bulbs, like melted lenses and can't see the difference between tail and stop. However, likely there are some LED replacements now that work well in the TR3 holder. Earlier ones didn't though, because of the funny angle of the bulb. One of my "back burner" projects is to try gutting a standard bulb holder and filling the inside of the lens with super high output LEDs (the kind that warn against eye damage if you look at them directly) ... but I should probably get the car running first Randall 59 TR3A TS39781LO (now totaled :( 56 TR3 TS13571L next project 71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild 71 Stag LE2013LBW daily driver wanna be 57 TR3 TS21731L rusting quietly 2000 miles away From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Tue May 13 09:10:16 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 15:10:16 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Alternate Connecting Rods In-Reply-To: <020d01c8b481$df2872d0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <020d01c8b481$df2872d0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: I don't know if they fit a GT6 engine, but I have a set of 6" Carillo rods for a Chevy 350. Anyonw interested please contact me off list. Thanks. Best regards, Tom > From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com > To: N197TR4 at cs.com > Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:45:26 -0400 > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Alternate Connecting Rods > > Boy, that is NEAT!!!! I am always amazed at the ingenuity of the folks on this > list ... I'm guessing I didn't look closely enough in my enthusiasm to find a > GM rod for the TR6! > > I wonder if anyone else has done the legwork to look at alternate rods for the > 6-cylinder engine? > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** > ----- Original Message ----- > From: N197TR4 at cs.com > To: triumph at 2simpleusa.com > Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 6:38 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] It runs! > > > In a message dated 5/12/2008 5:05:50 PM Central Daylight Time, > triumph at 2simpleusa.com writes: > > > > Joe, > > I'm intrigued by the reference to the GM connecting rods ... which ones > can > be used in a TR6? > > Thanks, > > > > Good question. I am not aware of any research into alternative rods. for > TR6. > > This is for the TR3/4 Rods that are 6.250 on centers > > Pin bushing is changed to .875 > Thrust washers are made for pin end to centralize the rod with the piston. > Crank is reground to match Chevy Rod Clevite 777 shells. > > Certainly cheaper than Carillos and quite adequate for the HP & RPM > requirements. > > I thought it was a pretty clever thing to do. With the help of Uncle Jack. > > Joe Alexander > the-vintage-racer.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live SkyDrive lets you share files with faraway friends. http://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_s kydrive_052008 From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue May 13 09:29:24 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:29:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Replacing oil pan gasket In-Reply-To: <08a701c8b4e3$15b2bbb0$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <000701c8b4a0$cb3c8fd0$210110ac@bobspc> <08a701c8b4e3$15b2bbb0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: Hi, To the advocates of using sealant on both sides of the gasket, I need to ask - with sealant on both sides, how do you remove the pan without cocking up the gasket? Not that you'd ever need to remove the pan. :-) I always seal to one surface (usually the surface on the part that is removed to perform service) and assemble dry to the other surface. This way the part can wiggle when you install and the whole thing can come apart for service when needed and in a lot of cases (like the oil pan) you can re-use the gasket. Then again, I'm not a mechanic by trade... rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 13 09:34:18 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 08:34:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Replacing oil pan gasket In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080513153418.GAKT720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > To the advocates of using sealant on both sides of the > gasket, I need to ask - with sealant on both sides, how do > you remove the pan without cocking up the gasket? Not that > you'd ever need to remove the pan. Personally, I consider pan gaskets to be single-use items. Never took one off I'd want to reuse, even if it wasn't torn apart by sealant. But with Hylomar, frequently the gasket does not tear as you remove it ... I even used Hylomar on rocker cover gaskets that I did reuse (before switching to Justin's silicone gasket). Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue May 13 09:48:00 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:48:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake Switch Thanks Message-ID: <000001c8b510$ba90b8d0$210110ac@bobspc> Once again I found myself head first in the foot well..... This time trying to remove the brake switch. Once I got it out and was able to see that it worked the opposite of what I thought..... the fix was the easy "bend the tab" that a few of you suggested. BTW, I had one serrated washer and a big washer behind the tab and a serrated washer and a nut on the other side securing the switch. I tried removing the big washer first to move the switch closer to the pedal arm but that put it too close. So I put it back together as it was and just bent the tab a little bit. I was so focused on thinking that the spring was not returning the pedal correctly or that the switch was bad, that I never noticed the tab that the switch mounts in. Such a simple solution. Thanks again Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Tue May 13 10:27:16 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 12:27:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] 3A brake lights Message-ID: <380-220085213162716893@M2W008.mail2web.com> The Halogens will definitely melt the plastic housing/lenses but you can definitely tell the difference between the tail and stop. I have them on my 40 Ford truck, with 47 tail lights and because of the relatively small size of these assemblies, I wanted people to see them in daylight. People nowadays are so used to seeing the back end of the vehicle light up that the tiny 2 to 3 inch round lights seem to go unnoticed - the halogens certainly are brighter, but MUST be used with metal housings, and glass lenses! I still haven't found an LED setup that is as bright...as even incandescent bulbs at varying viewing angles required for vehicle lighting - they all look OK straight on, but if viewed from different angles, as people will sitting in various vehicles, the intensity varies greatly. *************************************************** Original Message: ----------------- From: Randall tr3driver at ca.rr.com Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:32:26 -0700 To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 3A brake lights > In addition to > this upgrade, what replacement bulbs are recommended for > brighter signalling to the rear? If you want to stay with conventional bulbs, a 2357 is about 25% brighter (on the brake filament) but draws only slightly more current than the stock tail/stop bulb. I've heard bad things about halogen tail/stop bulbs, like melted lenses and can't see the difference between tail and stop. -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting From FGFO1 at aol.com Tue May 13 12:39:47 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:39:47 EDT Subject: [TR] update on california paint Message-ID: Just to update you all on the new California law. Yes, we must convert to water based paints come June 1. In talking with people I see a lot of shops have already converted. The shop I just bought my paint at told me they will run down their inventory of acrylics pretty soon. Maybe within 60 days. but they claimed that the one part acrylics will still be OK to use and that they will continue to stock that. So if you live in California and are looking to paint your car in a 2 step process you may want to buy your paint soon. Frank Fisher Temecula California **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Tue May 13 12:52:38 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:52:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 235 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 06:45:55 EDT From: DLylis at aol.com Subject: [TR] 3A brake lights In addition to this upgrade, what replacement bulbs are recommended for brighter signalling to the rear? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO Dave, Recently, I cleaned up my tail lights. I took the lenses off, cleaned the reflector body, cleaned the bulbs, and cleaned the INSIDE of the lens. On the outside of the lenses, a good clean and polish with Plexus made the lenses clean and clear. Plexus (see you local motorcycle store) was developed for polycarbonate aircaraft cockpit screens. It renovates plastic very successfully. Altogether, my tail lights are much brighter. Try this, whether you find different bulbs or not. Brian From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue May 13 13:08:13 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:08:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size? Message-ID: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> My block is going in to be prepared for insertion of Spit. cam bearings ... does anyone have the definitive bore size for fitting the Spitfire cam bearings in te TR6 block? Thanks, ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue May 13 13:16:34 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 12:16:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] 3A brake lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If the TR6 switch is in the footwell (as mentioned in another post) you might consider the TR4 set-up which has the switch in the portion of the pedal box that is in the engine compartment. An alternative to the switch is to keep the pressure switch but add a relay. That is what I did (as suggested by Randall). This also allows more wattage and more bulbs so I have a magnetic-base third light and also converted the turnsignals to 2-filament bases for 2 more brake lights. Still not enough for some drivers to see I suppose. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: > Before I put my pedal box back in I am going to install a brake light > switch > much the same as is used on a TR6. The pressure switch on my car is > quite > funky. If you press the pedal a little, the lights come on a little. If > you > press the pedal a lot, the lights come on a lot. In addition to this > upgrade, what replacement bulbs are recommended for brighter signalling > to the rear? From tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org Tue May 13 13:58:48 2008 From: tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:58:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size? In-Reply-To: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> References: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> Message-ID: <485700F0934C4306BD61E44117093E77@aitinc.local> Here is what TRF sent me when I did mine: Use cam bearings for a 1296 cc spitfire engine. You use the small journal bearings (width). The wide bearings go in the outside bearings and the narrow bearings go in the center. The bores must be bored to 1.9680 - 1.9695 to fit the bearings. Terry Geiger 195? MGA~1974 Triumph TR6~1970 MGBGT~1963 Triumph Herald~1984 Mercedes 300D www.ShoalsBritishCars.org ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:08 PM Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size? > My block is going in to be prepared for insertion of Spit. cam bearings > ... does anyone have the definitive bore size for fitting the Spitfire cam > bearings in te TR6 block? > > Thanks, > ************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue May 13 16:02:41 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 18:02:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size? In-Reply-To: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> References: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> Message-ID: On Tue, 13 May 2008 triumph at 2simpleusa.com wrote: > My block is going in to be prepared for insertion of Spit. cam bearings > ... does anyone have the definitive bore size for fitting the Spitfire > cam bearings in te TR6 block? If you provide the bearings with the block, any competent machinist will figure out what to do. Otherwise, if you tell them that the bearings are from a Spitfire, they can look up the OD for the align bore. Don't forget to provide your cam so they can dimension the journals for proper clearance. Otherwise, they might go in too tight and you'll have problems. I recall that aptfast.com had the dimensions, but I'm having trouble accessing that site right now... but check them out. > Thanks, > ************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************** rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From 60TR3A at cox.net Tue May 13 16:22:18 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 15:22:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] 3A brake lights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Based on the suggestion of Dan Masters during the rewiring of my TR3A I bought the "bright bulbs" from Ron Francis http://www.ronfrancis.com/lighting.htm and have been very impressed. I can see the light from my front turn signals reflected off the black street at night from the driver's seat!!! Part of that is Dan's wiring no doubt, the bulbs are obviously brighter. I got fast service from their website as well! NFI just a very happy customer. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue May 13 16:24:06 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 18:24:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] jet coating Message-ID: <200805131824.07018.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Well, I just received my TR3 manifold from Paeco. I had the std gray jet coating applied. Before I had this done, I had the local machine shop level off the flange and ports and I grinded, filed off all the casting edges and finally a through bead blast before shipping off to Paeco. The manifold looks real nice, sort of a rough flat finish. Anyone wants a photo just email me offline. The list archives is really positive about this procedure. I hope it lasts. Kind of pricey! Bob From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Tue May 13 19:43:03 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 21:43:03 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes Message-ID: <19582430.1210729383729.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi folks, I hate to impose such a simple request but I cannot find my Haynes manual anywhere. I must have spent the last 2 hours looking for the damn thing - even the good wife joined in - she even knows what it looks like. The problem is that the handbrake doesn't stop the car moving. I'm thinking I have to first adjust the back brakes, individually, so the wheels spin freely but are locked solid with foot brake applied. Then take up any slack in the handbrake cable. Have I got got that right? I've done this before but CRS. Cheers, Adrian TS 58325 From wbeech at flash.net Tue May 13 20:10:34 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:10:34 -0600 Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes In-Reply-To: <19582430.1210729383729.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <19582430.1210729383729.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <004001c8b567$b2986590$6401a8c0@sniffer> Adrian, It's just as well that you didn't find your Haynes, and I quote: "The handbrake linkage comprising a system of cables and levers operates on the rear brakes only and usually requires no separate adjustment." [Haynes TR 2,3,3a4 & B4a guide] What you have described below is exactly how I would do it. Another lister wrote "Pull the handbrake up three clicks and adjust the wheels until they are tight, then back the brake lever off." I have never done it that way but it might work just fine. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Adrian Jones Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 7:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes Hi folks, I hate to impose such a simple request but I cannot find my Haynes manual anywhere. I must have spent the last 2 hours looking for the damn thing - even the good wife joined in - she even knows what it looks like. The problem is that the handbrake doesn't stop the car moving. I'm thinking I have to first adjust the back brakes, individually, so the wheels spin freely but are locked solid with foot brake applied. Then take up any slack in the handbrake cable. Have I got got that right? I've done this before but CRS. Cheers, Adrian TS 58325 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From ZoboHerald at aol.com Tue May 13 20:15:35 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 22:15:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes Message-ID: In a message dated 5/13/2008 10:10:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: Another lister wrote "Pull the handbrake up three clicks and adjust the wheels until they are tight, then back the brake lever off." I have never done it that way but it might work just fine. ==AM== How do you determine "three clicks" on the FLYOFF handbrake of a TR3? ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue May 13 20:37:56 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 19:37:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <099E11B75C8941179E0EBF5BB0A1F18C@GeoPC> I just adjust until they drag then back them off one quarter turn. Works for me. Gero From wbeech at flash.net Tue May 13 20:40:04 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:40:04 -0600 Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004901c8b56b$d1e7b2d0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Excellent question, we should ask Brian Watts from the VTR web site. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-adjustment.shtml Me thinks he was not making a TR3 specific comment. I would probably take a shot and say abaout 1/2 the full throw of the lever. Of course, after you do anything with brakes, take is slow and test them well before getting back onto the road! Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ZoboHerald at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes In a message dated 5/13/2008 10:10:40 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: Another lister wrote "Pull the handbrake up three clicks and adjust the wheels until they are tight, then back the brake lever off." I have never done it that way but it might work just fine. ==AM== How do you determine "three clicks" on the FLYOFF handbrake of a TR3? ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From brad.kahler at 141.com Tue May 13 21:00:38 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:00:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] roadster shipping Message-ID: <482A55D6.8070808@141.com> We're starting to plan the shipment of our new 2000 Roadster from Santa Barbara to Little Rock. It looks like it will be easy to find someone to ship the car the challenge is going to be finding someone that is DEPENDABLE to ship the car. I've heard lots of horror stories about how cars were treated in shipment and I don't want to have something like that happen to us. We're getting quotes from around $900 to $1200 on an open carrier and from $1500 and up for an enclosed carrier. For obvious reasons my preference is an enclosed trailer but its kinda hard to justify the additional cost. Have any of you recently (last 6 months) shipped a car and if so who did you use and were you happy with the results? The probable shipping date is mid to late June. We'd kinda like to have it in Little Rock so we can take it to the VTR convention this year, that is assuming all the other logistics work out. Looking for any and all leads here! Thanks, Brad From 60TR3A at cox.net Tue May 13 21:06:24 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:06:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] roadster shipping In-Reply-To: <482A55D6.8070808@141.com> References: <482A55D6.8070808@141.com> Message-ID: <8E87988E-7A52-4A15-8447-69D1B88DDDB4@cox.net> When I shipped my TR3A from Minneapolis to Phoenix most shippers would only take it on a covered van because of the top & side curtains. John On 13 May, 2008, at 8:00 PM, Brad Kahler wrote: > We're starting to plan the shipment of our new 2000 Roadster from > Santa > Barbara to Little Rock. It looks like it will be easy to find someone > to ship the car the challenge is going to be finding someone that is > DEPENDABLE to ship the car. I've heard lots of horror stories about > how > cars were treated in shipment and I don't want to have something like > that happen to us. > > We're getting quotes from around $900 to $1200 on an open carrier and > from $1500 and up for an enclosed carrier. For obvious reasons my > preference is an enclosed trailer but its kinda hard to justify the > additional cost. > > Have any of you recently (last 6 months) shipped a car and if so who > did > you use and were you happy with the results? > > The probable shipping date is mid to late June. We'd kinda like to > have > it in Little Rock so we can take it to the VTR convention this year, > that is assuming all the other logistics work out. > > Looking for any and all leads here! > > Thanks, > > Brad > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From brad.kahler at 141.com Tue May 13 21:18:02 2008 From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:18:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] roadster shipping In-Reply-To: <8E87988E-7A52-4A15-8447-69D1B88DDDB4@cox.net> References: <482A55D6.8070808@141.com> <8E87988E-7A52-4A15-8447-69D1B88DDDB4@cox.net> Message-ID: <482A59EA.3060005@141.com> Interesting. My biggest worry about using an open carrier is the fact that the doors on the roadster are suicide doors. I'm afraid of a big bump or something knocking the doors open and the wind then trying to tear them off. I know what winds can do. I was hauling a Herald for Andy Mace and had the boot lid try to tear itself off because of a horrific cross wind on I-90 west of Cleveland (sorry Andy!). Ever since then I've been leary of what damage the winds can do to our cars. Brad 60TR3A wrote: > When I shipped my TR3A from Minneapolis to Phoenix most shippers would > only take it on a covered van because of the top & side curtains. > > John > > > > On 13 May, 2008, at 8:00 PM, Brad Kahler wrote: > >> We're starting to plan the shipment of our new 2000 Roadster from Santa >> Barbara to Little Rock. It looks like it will be easy to find someone >> to ship the car the challenge is going to be finding someone that is >> DEPENDABLE to ship the car. I've heard lots of horror stories about how >> cars were treated in shipment and I don't want to have something like >> that happen to us. >> >> We're getting quotes from around $900 to $1200 on an open carrier and >> from $1500 and up for an enclosed carrier. For obvious reasons my >> preference is an enclosed trailer but its kinda hard to justify the >> additional cost. >> >> Have any of you recently (last 6 months) shipped a car and if so who did >> you use and were you happy with the results? >> >> The probable shipping date is mid to late June. We'd kinda like to have >> it in Little Rock so we can take it to the VTR convention this year, >> that is assuming all the other logistics work out. >> >> Looking for any and all leads here! >> >> Thanks, >> >> Brad >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register >> http://www.vtr.org >> >> >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs >> >> You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net >> >> http://www.team.net/archive > > John A. Wise > Glendale, AZ > > 1960 Triumph TR3A > Commission No: TS80422L > http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ > http://www.triumphowners.com/876 > > 1977 Porsche 911S > http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1430 - Release Date: 5/13/2008 7:31 AM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 13 21:32:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:32:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080514033203.TOCA19888.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > How do you determine "three clicks" on the FLYOFF handbrake > of a TR3? ;-) Hold the button down while you pull the handle. That said, I've always just turned the adjuster until the drag is noticeable, then backed off one or two clicks until it isn't. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 13 21:41:22 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:41:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes In-Reply-To: <19582430.1210729383729.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080514034122.UJZI28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Adrian, > I'm thinking I have to first adjust the back brakes, > individually, so the wheels spin freely but are locked solid > with foot brake applied. In case it's not obvious yet, that's not good enough. The design is such that the adjuster can be backed off all the way, but the brakes will still lock with the foot brake applied. Here's what the factory workshop manual has to say : "Release the handbrake and jack up the car. Turn the square end of the adjuster on the outside of each rear brake backplate in a clockwise direction until a resistance is felt, then slacken back two clicks, when the drum should rotate freely. Immediately after fitting replacement shoes it is advisable to slacken one further click to allow for possible lining expansion, reverting to normal adjustment afterwards." > Then take up any slack in the > handbrake cable. Have I got that right? Again the workshop manual : "From the compensating linkage to the brake levers mounted on the wheel cylinders are transverse cables which are of a set length when leaving the works. They are however adjustable at their inner ends and should these have been tampered with it is necessary to check the following: The cable assembled to the right-hand cylinder lever is 12.97" +/- .06" between centres. The left-hand is 26.85" +/- .06", this gives the correct angle of the compensator lever as 17 degrees. Only when a complete overhaul is necessary should the handbrake cables require resetting. To carry out this operation, the brake shoes should be locked up in the brake drums with the handbrake in the "off" position. Any slackness that is in the cable from compensator to handbrake lever should be removed at the handbrake lever end." HTH Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 13 21:45:32 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:45:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] 3A brake lights In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080514034531.ZLRB21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > An alternative to the switch is to keep the pressure switch > but add a relay. > That is what I did (as suggested by Randall). Just for clarity, I only suggested that as an option. What I did on my own TR3A was to install a brake light switch from an American car (with high center brake light) in the TR4 style on the MC bracket. Not the prettiest installation, but I never had another failure of the switch (after 3 failures in 2 years using the hydraulic switch). Randall From DLylis at aol.com Wed May 14 04:47:39 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 06:47:39 EDT Subject: [TR] roadster shipping Message-ID: IMHO step for the enclosed, and call FedEx. I have used other shippers but understand that FedEx does a good job. Knowing where your car is becomes important, although it might not seem so now. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed May 14 08:28:29 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 07:28:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] car move References: Message-ID: <004301c8b5ce$c7c86a70$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> I used http://www.professionalvehicleshipping.com/ in July '07 and I would use them again. Regards, Bob > We're starting to plan the shipment of our new 2000 Roadster from Santa > Barbara to Little Rock. It looks like it will be easy to find someone > to ship the car the challenge is going to be finding someone that is > DEPENDABLE to ship the car. I've heard lots of horror stories about how > cars were treated in shipment and I don't want to have something like > that happen to us. > > We're getting quotes from around $900 to $1200 on an open carrier and > from $1500 and up for an enclosed carrier. For obvious reasons my > preference is an enclosed trailer but its kinda hard to justify the > additional cost. > > Have any of you recently (last 6 months) shipped a car and if so who did > you use and were you happy with the results? > > The probable shipping date is mid to late June. We'd kinda like to have > it in Little Rock so we can take it to the VTR convention this year, > that is assuming all the other logistics work out. > > Looking for any and all leads here! > > Thanks, > > Brad From ZoboHerald at aol.com Wed May 14 07:15:15 2008 From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 09:15:15 EDT Subject: [TR] roadster shipping Message-ID: In a message dated 5/13/2008 11:25:12 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, brad.kahler at 141.com writes: I know what winds can do. I was hauling a Herald for Andy Mace and had the boot lid try to tear itself off because of a horrific cross wind on I-90 west of Cleveland (sorry Andy!). Ever since then I've been leary of what damage the winds can do to our cars. ==AM== Luckily for both of us, those little pot-metal hinges held up, and the only real damage to the lid was an easily straightened front left corner! You're forgiven, Brad. ;-) --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ (http://triumph-herald.us/) **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From allegrorover at mac.com Wed May 14 08:50:09 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 08:50:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: <1243625A-13D1-476B-AA3E-27588156D1C0@mac.com> test From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 14 09:57:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 08:57:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] IRS stub axle bearings In-Reply-To: <200805131824.07018.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20080514155734.BRGR28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> I see where TRF offers 3 different grades of IRS stub axle bearings (134465), being "standard", "Japan" (which I assume is NTN), and "high quality" (which appears to be SKF). With almost a 6:1 ratio in price ! Does anyone have experiences to share with the standard or NTN bearings ? I'm pulling the Stag's diff for other reasons, just noticed that the stub axle bearings were a bit loose ... but $115/bearing seems a bit steep ? Randall From dkspence at telus.net Wed May 14 12:08:39 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 12:08:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] shipping a TR roadster In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7F7616D6-F8F5-4D04-849D-6983F4EE6884@telus.net> Brad Assuming it has a good top and a decent interior and paint, $300 is cheap compared to the potential for damage and the resultant costs. Think of wind, rain, bug goo, road dirt, vandals and the curious, (it has to park somewhere at night) etc etc etc. Spend the extra to ship it enclosed and save your self from the worries and the grief of having to clean it later. On 14-May-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: >>> We're getting quotes from around $900 to $1200 on an open carrier >>> and >>> from $1500 and up for an enclosed carrier. For obvious reasons my >>> preference is an enclosed trailer but its kinda hard to justify the >>> additional cost. From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed May 14 12:16:30 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 14:16:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Roadster Shipping and wind In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Ahh, another item for the million and one things to use Duct Tape for.... Apply cling film to outside of doors to protect paint, run duct tape in two or three loops around the car (up a door, across to the other side, down the other door, and back across under the car. Likewise use duct tape to wrap around the boot handle and attach to fender. Could do the bonnet too, just in case... Brian in Valley Forge 1963 Triumph TR4 CT/14455-L From: Brad Kahler Subject: Re: [TR] roadster shipping Interesting. My biggest worry about using an open carrier is the fact that the doors on the roadster are suicide doors. I'm afraid of a big bump or something knocking the doors open and the wind then trying to tear them off. I know what winds can do. I was hauling a Herald for Andy Mace and had the boot lid try to tear itself off because of a horrific cross wind on I-90 west of Cleveland (sorry Andy!). Ever since then I've been leary of what damage the winds can do to our cars. Brad From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 14 12:46:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 11:46:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Adjusting the TR3 rear brakes In-Reply-To: <004901c8b56b$d1e7b2d0$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <004901c8b56b$d1e7b2d0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <03de01c8b5f2$c8dc1a00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Me thinks he was not making a TR3 specific comment. Almost certainly not, since he : 1) Mentions the adjuster not affecting the front shoe ... it does on a TR3 (and on a TR6 for that matter). 2) Mentions pulling the handbrake lever "up" ... on a TR3 it's pulled to the rear to apply the brakes. While there are similarities, there are also substantial differences between the solid axle e-brakes and the IRS ones. It probably pays to find the procedure for your car, instead of some other car. Randall From ray at raysmg.com Wed May 14 14:37:29 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 13:37:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] shipping a TR roadster Message-ID: <20080514133729.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.d09200289e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> I caught this thread late...been sick. I shipped a Bugeye vintage racer to California from Georgia last summer using Cim (pronounced Kim) Miller, owner of "109 Transport". Cim has a fully enclosed eighteen wheeler and specializes in collector vehicles...I was most impressed at the concern he took in the proper loading of my car. I recommended him to a friend of mine that took delivery of an MG TD two weeks ago...Ohio to Georgia. Again, Cim did an excellent job for a competitive rate, which for that move was .65/mile with a 20% fuel surcharge. You can reach Cim in his rig at 602-803-0032...tell him Ray in Georgia sent you. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From mdporter at dfn.com Wed May 14 16:02:36 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 16:02:36 -0600 Subject: [TR] IRS stub axle bearings In-Reply-To: <20080514155734.BRGR28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080514155734.BRGR28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <482B617C.60708@dfn.com> Randall wrote: > I see where TRF offers 3 different grades of IRS stub axle bearings > (134465), being "standard", "Japan" (which I assume is NTN), and "high > quality" (which appears to be SKF). With almost a 6:1 ratio in price ! > > Does anyone have experiences to share with the standard or NTN bearings ? > > I'm pulling the Stag's diff for other reasons, just noticed that the stub > axle bearings were a bit loose ... but $115/bearing seems a bit steep ? > > SKF is Swedish, I think. They're a good quality bearing, probably as good as Timken. You might be able to get better quality at a good price by getting the existing bearing numbers and doing a little investigation with them at a local industrial supply house's interchange books. Here's a hint. Almost every manufacturer has more than one line of bearings. In the US, these are defined by ABEC, and the grades run from 1-7. 1 is the cheapest and is also defined as "automotive grade." Therefore, most mass manufacturers buy ABEC-1. If they last the warranty period, they've done their job. Over twenty years ago, I worked for a start-up company building prototypes. When I got there, they had a cheap Korean mill/drill that wasn't suited for the work they were expecting it to do, and after a few months, I managed to get them buy a cheap Taiwanese Bridgeport copy. After about eight months of very, very hard work, some of it by people who really didn't care about the machinery, the spindle bearings had started to wear and were rumbling a bit. To directly replace the bearings (grease-lubricated), top and bottom, was going to cost about $60 at the time. Since they'd worn out in less than a year, I didn't want to go through that every year, so I opted for ABEC-7 bearings, put the quill in the lathe and machined a pocket in the nose for a lip seal, and filled the quill with spindle oil. It was still working well when the company died five years later. I think the price spread for the bearings then was $60 for ABEC-1 to $160 for ABEC-7 from the same manufacturer. At that job, I bought a lot of bearings which had to run in harsh environments--extreme cold, abrasive mineral dusts with positive air pressure internally, etc.--so, buying replacements for equipment that ran periodically for testing (in a company always strapped for money) was an exercise in finding the cheapest possible that would last long enough to do the testing, so I was always looking for deals. I used a lot of NTN bearings in various applications, and they didn't run any better or worse than any other. An ABEC-5 (or -7) from the cheapest manufacturer is probably going to be a better bearing than an ABEC-1 from the most expensive source. If you want the best available in the US, look at the Timken interchange lists online, but be prepared to pay as much, or more, than SKFs. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From boggiano at charter.net Wed May 14 18:50:11 2008 From: boggiano at charter.net (Thomas Boggiano) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 20:50:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] ARP part numbers References: <20080514034531.ZLRB21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <006b01c8b625$a180d800$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Hello Can anyone confirm for me if these are the proper part numbers for ARP bolts for a TR4 engine? Head Bolts 206-4207 Rod Bolts 206-6001 Main Bearing 206-5401 Thanks Tom From timipurdy at citlink.net Wed May 14 20:22:09 2008 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 19:22:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Differential Message-ID: <006c01c8b632$7c3f6a90$01fea8c0@Lahontan> Replaced, what a difference. I did not do the work myself. The mechanic stated to take it easy to break it in for the first couple of hundred miles. I assume this is sound advice, any opinions out there? Tim, just happy to have the TR back, and took the top off today. From jimbyjove at comcast.net Wed May 14 23:30:14 2008 From: jimbyjove at comcast.net (Jim Coleman) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 01:30:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] Surrey Top Message-ID: <00c101c8b64c$ca12d260$6401a8c0@CUSTOMERC3NCKM> A friend of mine, getting ready for Ypsilanti but not currently a member of this forum, is putting together his restored TR250, and he has asked me to relate his problem to you. He is installing a newly refurbished backlight section and aluminum center section that he purchased several years ago. The problem is that there is a gap large enough to get part of your hand through where the top fits against the center portion of the backlight frame. Just to make sure whether or not there is a difference in surrey tops, we tried mine which happens to be made of steel and obviously heavier. The fit is much better but the fit at the back is still not acceptable in our opinion. We did not bolt either top down. Has anyone had this problem before and if so, what would you suggest we do to improve the fit short of attempting to bend the center of the top down somehow? Jim TR4,6,8 From kvacek at ameritech.net Thu May 15 11:29:58 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 12:29:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4-6 parts for sale Message-ID: Sorry to waste the bandwidth, but a few of these pieces are rare and desirable. I've been holding onto a few nice pieces of new and used sheet metal, and also a pile of new parts I bought from TRF a few years ago for my projects. Chassis/suspension stuff, lenses, and misc. I've finally listed them all and am about to put them on FleaBay. Before I do, I'd like to offer them to the list. I have an Excel spreadsheet with everything listed, with the current list and most recent sale prices from TRF's website, along with my price. Most prices are about 20% off TRF's last sale price. The body stuff is mostly "make offer". Take one piece or make an offer on everything. PLEASE contact me OFF-LIST. KVacek at Ameritech.net 708-447-7879 Home / Office 708-567-7879 Cellular Thanks ! Karl Vacek From L1J1S at aol.com Thu May 15 16:27:57 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 18:27:57 EDT Subject: [TR] od tr3 tranny Message-ID: list, i am going to drain the oil put of my od tranny (tr3). aside from opening the drain plug on the side of the tranny housing , do i open the nut on the bottom of the od unit and drain the oil from there too? larry schwartz **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu May 15 17:02:54 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 16:02:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] od tr3 tranny In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The plug on the side is for filling. There is a similar plug (most likely has a 7/16" square head) on the bottom for draining. If you were referring to the big brass nut/plug on the bottom -- that allows you to remove & clean the filter, which I do when changing oil. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: >...aside from > opening the drain plug on the side of the tranny housing , do i open the > nut on > the bottom of the od unit and drain the oil from there too? From thomas309 at aol.com Thu May 15 17:14:32 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 19:14:32 EDT Subject: [TR] od tr3 tranny Message-ID: Just an FYI...be sure you can get the fill plug out BEFORE draining. You wouldn't want get the fluid out and not be able to refill. Tom In a message dated 5/15/2008 7:03:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: The plug on the side is for filling. There is a similar plug (most likely has a 7/16" square head) on the bottom for draining. If you were referring to the big brass nut/plug on the bottom -- that allows you to remove & clean the filter, which I do when changing oil. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: >...aside from > opening the drain plug on the side of the tranny housing , do i open the > nut on > the bottom of the od unit and drain the oil from there too? This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thomas309 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 15 17:48:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 16:48:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] od tr3 tranny In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <06f701c8b6e6$32e8ccb0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > do > i open the nut on > the bottom of the od unit and drain the oil from there too? YES. Also clean the filter and the magnets. If you have the later drain plug with the 6 slots, it's better to build a wrench that engages at least two slots. I've previously used two bolts in a drilled length of heavy flat steel for the wrench, but I believe someone sells a proper socket that will engage all 6 slots at once. (I plan to make my own socket, next time the issue comes up.) Using a drift & hammer on the (NLA) plug can distort it and lead to frustrating leaks. If you have the earlier OD with the hex head on the big brass plug, my suggestion is to buy a six-point socket to fit it and then grind away the taper at the mouth of the socket so it engages as much of the flats as possible. There will also be an additional bolt, washer and spacer that holds the filter screen in, Don't lose them ! FWIW, I've started replacing all of those smaller tapered pipe plugs (the ones with the easily-rounded square heads) with "hex socket" pipe plugs from MMC. They are also available in magnetic versions for drain plugs. Much less likely to round off, and easier to turn in tight places (like on the Stag). The tapered plugs are also a real good place for some Teflon pipe paste (Home Depot, etc.) IMO. Helps ensure they will come out easily next time, and no worries about Teflon strings clogging critical passages in the OD (as can happen with Teflon tape). Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu May 15 18:33:16 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 20:33:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] od tr3 tranny References: Message-ID: <009401c8b6ec$6f11be30$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> And a 6 point, 7/16" socket would be a nice tool to have on hand to insure that you don't destroy either fill or drain plugs. ERW From fogbro1 at comcast.net Thu May 15 19:31:16 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 21:31:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] od tr3 tranny References: <009401c8b6ec$6f11be30$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <001501c8b6f4$890cc4d0$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Oops! an 8 point socket. Excuse the Senior Moment. ERW ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:33 PM Subject: Re: [TR] od tr3 tranny > And a 6 point, 7/16" socket would be a nice tool to have on hand to insure > that you don't destroy either fill or drain plugs. > > ERW > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as fogbro1 at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From maya2blue at juno.com Thu May 15 20:23:36 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 21:23:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] The Green Helmet dvd/movie Message-ID: <20080515.212336.3312.1.maya2blue@juno.com> Greetings, I just purchased the dvd version of The Green Helmet from an internet outfit called HondaHogs. (www.hondahogs.com) I thought that I was buying an original movie. I did not. Following is the comment that I received from the "seller" when I questioned the "originality" of the dvd. "We sell rare old movies that were never released for home video. Consequently, there are no originals - at least that we've ever seen." Therefore, I feel comfortable in offering this dvd to the list .... If you would like one, send me a dvd blank and I will copy it for you. Best Harve Harve Thorn ('78 1500 Spitfire) 531 Amen Corner (NASS #79) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg From leejohn7 at gmail.com Thu May 15 22:17:28 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 21:17:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] shipping a TR roadster In-Reply-To: <20080514133729.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.d09200289e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> References: <20080514133729.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.d09200289e.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Message-ID: About two years ago I used Intercity Lines to move my TR4 from Rhode Island to Sausalito, CA. It was truly door-to-door : the same driver and truck all the way. My car happened to be first on so it wasn't moved. It was a white glove job, and my LBO was accompanied by far more valuable vehicles. Covered, of course. Pricey at $1830, but totally worry-free. Good luck John Howard On Wed, May 14, 2008 at 1:37 PM, wrote: > I caught this thread late...been sick. > > I shipped a Bugeye vintage racer to California from Georgia last summer > using Cim (pronounced Kim) Miller, owner of "109 Transport". Cim has a > fully enclosed eighteen wheeler and specializes in collector > vehicles...I was most impressed at the concern he took in the proper > loading of my car. > > I recommended him to a friend of mine that took delivery of an MG TD two > weeks ago...Ohio to Georgia. Again, Cim did an excellent job for a > competitive rate, which for that move was .65/mile with a 20% fuel > surcharge. > > You can reach Cim in his rig at 602-803-0032...tell him Ray in Georgia > sent you. > > Ray > > Ray McCaleb > ray at raysmg.com > http://www.raysmg.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From triumphstag at gmail.com Thu May 15 23:23:47 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 22:23:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Regarding the no. stamped on the brass tag on the ZS carbs Message-ID: I have two tags with me. One has the no. 2477 3509R. The other has 3146 3509L. Firstly, how many tags should a pair of carbs. have? Also, can someone please tell me about the numbers? If there is supposed to be only one tag, one came off my Stag the other might have come from a TR7, but I'm not sure which one. Thanks, Sujit From john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Fri May 16 07:11:18 2008 From: john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com (John Dunham) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 09:11:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] KN Wheel Lugnuts Message-ID: Anybody out there know of a good US based source for lugnuts for KN wheels? I have tried all the locals with no luck. I was able to find some 7/16 - 20 lugnuts that looked like they should fit but the lugnut did not fit into the hole in the rim. I could be missing something, & if anybody can help, I would appreciate it. Thanks, John D From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri May 16 08:18:48 2008 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 10:18:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Regarding the no. stamped on the brass tag on the ZS carbs Message-ID: In a message dated 5/16/2008 1:24:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, triumphstag at gmail.com writes: I have two tags with me. One has the no. 2477 3509R. The other has 3146 3509L. Firstly, how many tags should a pair of carbs. have? Also, can someone please tell me about the numbers? If there is supposed to be only one tag, one came off my Stag the other might have come from a TR7, but I'm not sure which one. each separate carb will have a tag on it - and it will have originally been on the top cover screw nearest the upper end of the temp. compensator anybody working on Strombergs should have a copy of Haynes Weber Carburetor Manual - which covers Strombergs and SUs as well as it covers Webers. According to the appendix of that manual, 3509R was the right carb for a 73 or 74 Stag and 3509L was on the left carb of a 73 or 74 Stag The first 4 numbers are there just to throw you off - just kidding - the last 4 numbers and letter are the carburetor reference numbers - i don't know what the first 4 are - maybe a sequence or serial number of some kind. Cheers, Jack Mc **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From spitlist at cox.net Fri May 16 08:43:02 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 07:43:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] KN Wheel Lugnuts References: Message-ID: <001401c8b763$24c82180$2d02a8c0@Belkin> On the Spitfire implementation of the KNs, I used stock Spitfire 1500 wheel nuts. They are chrome and fit the taper just fine. If you are talking about the larteg Triumphs, the studs are larger but I would imagine that the stock lugnuts for that model would also work. I think KN makes their wheels to use the stock lugnuts. Joe C. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Dunham" To: Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 6:11 AM Subject: [TR] KN Wheel Lugnuts > Anybody out there know of a good US based source for lugnuts for KN wheels? > I have tried all the locals with no luck. I was able to find some 7/16 - > 20 lugnuts that looked like they should fit but the lugnut did not fit into > the hole in the rim. > I could be missing something, & if anybody can help, I would appreciate it. > Thanks, > John D > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri May 16 08:36:57 2008 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 10:36:57 EDT Subject: [TR] KN Wheel Lugnuts Message-ID: In a message dated 5/16/2008 9:15:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com writes: Anybody out there know of a good US based source for lugnuts for KN wheels? I have tried all the locals with no luck. I was able to find some 7/16 - 20 lugnuts that looked like they should fit but the lugnut did not fit into the hole in the rim. try Summit Racing _http://www.summitracing.com/_ (http://www.summitracing.com/) if its a shank (not Conical) lug nut, you can narrow your search to 71 choices of 7/16 - 20 shank lug nuts - then (after measuring your wheel) you should be able to scroll thru and find some with the shank diameter and length that you need Cheers, Jack Mc **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From McGaheyRx at aol.com Fri May 16 08:40:27 2008 From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 10:40:27 EDT Subject: [TR] KN Wheel Lugnuts Message-ID: In a message dated 5/16/2008 10:36:31 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: If you are talking about the larteg Triumphs, the studs are larger but I would imagine that the stock lugnuts for that model would also work. I think KN makes their wheels to use the stock lugnuts. the KN wheels i had on my TR6 used a shank type lug nut - not conical as stock wheels do Cheers, Jack Mc **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From spitlist at cox.net Fri May 16 09:17:32 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 08:17:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] KN Wheel Lugnuts References: Message-ID: <002901c8b767$f71c4a40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Interesting, I would have figured that they would be consistent. Apparently not. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: McGaheyRx at aol.com To: spitlist at cox.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; john.dunham at amphenol-tcs.com Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 7:40 AM Subject: Re: [TR] KN Wheel Lugnuts In a message dated 5/16/2008 10:36:31 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, spitlist at cox.net writes: If you are talking about the larteg Triumphs, the studs are larger but I would imagine that the stock lugnuts for that model would also work. I think KN makes their wheels to use the stock lugnuts. the KN wheels i had on my TR6 used a shank type lug nut - not conical as stock wheels do Cheers, Jack Mc ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. From kthompson at whoi.edu Fri May 16 11:09:04 2008 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 13:09:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... Message-ID: <482DBFB0.5010906@whoi.edu> Greetings folks, I'm hoping for a bit of help on my just-done '59 TR3A. This was a project in boxes I bought a few years ago, in which the motor had already been rebuilt about 10 years ago, but never put back into the car. The car's now finished, sort of, except for the knocking sound..... Oil pressure is fine- 40 psi at hot idle, and 60 psi at cruise. Once the car's warmed up I get a slight knocking at low idle. None on acceleration or at cruising speed. I pull the number 1 plug when running and the noise lowers somewhat. Not gone, but less...... I'm leaning towards either a faulty wrist pin on #1 piston as freinds have mentioned, or perhaps a bad lifter. Any opinions on the lifter idea?? Also, are wrist pins and clips available separately?? I saw no listing on Moss or TRF websites.....unless I buy an entire piston set. All opinions from the collective wisdom of list gurus will be considered... Thanks a gazillion!!! Kevin T still cold and wet on Cape Cod, Ma. '59 TR3A '76 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 16 11:22:17 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 10:22:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... In-Reply-To: <482DBFB0.5010906@whoi.edu> Message-ID: <20080516172217.ZXPE21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Any opinions on the lifter idea?? Pulling a plug wire would not affect noise from the valve train. > Also, are wrist pins and clips available separately?? Not new, AFAIK, but I've got lots of used ones. But what you need may depend on which pistons you have. I've found lots of problems with various "rebuilt but never used" items I've bought over the years. The "rebuilt" TR3 motor I got turned out to have mismatched pistons in it. Plus 10 years is a long time; things can happen. My point is hat IMO you should just tear down the engine and check it out, not make any assumptions about only one thing being wrong. But if you have pulling the front apron as much as I do, you can start by pulling the head & pan with the engine still in the car. Randall From kthompson at whoi.edu Fri May 16 11:44:33 2008 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 13:44:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... Message-ID: <482DC801.8070508@whoi.edu> Yes Randall....I've already had the apron off last fall when I put in an electric fan, and removed the old fan and extension. In the attempt to find the cause of the knock. You were of help to me then, as well..... Would a bad lifter make a knocking sound?? KT But if you hate pulling the front apron as much as I do, you can start by pulling the head & pan with the engine still in the car. Randall From allegrorover at mac.com Fri May 16 12:04:21 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 12:04:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] ANYTHING IN ALBUQUERQUE Message-ID: <40E10698-72D7-48A8-AE8E-29E7DA513E03@mac.com> list, We are traveling the lower 48 and was wondering if there was anything Triumph related going on in the Albuquerque area this week end. Thanks Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com 58 TR3A TS27093L From patton at suscom-maine.net Fri May 16 12:10:12 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 14:10:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... In-Reply-To: <482DC801.8070508@whoi.edu> Message-ID: Kevin, After you removing the fan and extension could the damper be loose? Rick Patton rick at pattonmachine.com http://pattonmachine.com > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Kevin Thompson > Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 1:45 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 knock..... > > > Yes Randall....I've already had the apron off last fall when I > put in an electric fan, and removed the old fan and extension. > In the attempt to find the cause of the knock. You were of help > to me then, as well..... > Would a bad lifter make a knocking sound?? > KT > snip From wbeech at flash.net Fri May 16 12:10:29 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 12:10:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... In-Reply-To: <482DBFB0.5010906@whoi.edu> References: <482DBFB0.5010906@whoi.edu> Message-ID: <001401c8b780$20d66ec0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Kevin, Please keep me in the loop If you get off-line responses. I too have a fresh 10-year old re-build that can with a project car and will probably not go into service for at least another year. If you cannot find any wrist pins, I have the used ones from another re-build, in progress now, that you are welcome to if the re-builder still has them. Thanks, Bill Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin Thompson Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 11:09 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... Greetings folks, I'm hoping for a bit of help on my just-done '59 TR3A. This was a project in boxes I bought a few years ago, in which the motor had already been rebuilt about 10 years ago, but never put back into the car. The car's now finished, sort of, except for the knocking sound..... Oil pressure is fine- 40 psi at hot idle, and 60 psi at cruise. Once the car's warmed up I get a slight knocking at low idle. None on acceleration or at cruising speed. I pull the number 1 plug when running and the noise lowers somewhat. Not gone, but less...... I'm leaning towards either a faulty wrist pin on #1 piston as freinds have mentioned, or perhaps a bad lifter. Any opinions on the lifter idea?? Also, are wrist pins and clips available separately?? I saw no listing on Moss or TRF websites.....unless I buy an entire piston set. All opinions from the collective wisdom of list gurus will be considered... Thanks a gazillion!!! Kevin T still cold and wet on Cape Cod, Ma. '59 TR3A '76 TR6 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From kthompson at whoi.edu Fri May 16 12:12:33 2008 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 14:12:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <482DCE91.4040300@whoi.edu> Nah. I replaced it with an aluminum insert in the 2 piece pulley... Rick wrote: >Kevin, > >After you removing the fan and extension could the damper be loose? > >Rick Patton >rick at pattonmachine.com >http://pattonmachine.com > > > > >> >> Yes Randall....I've already had the apron off last fall when I >>put in an electric fan, and removed the old fan and extension. >> In the attempt to find the cause of the knock. You were of help >>to me then, as well..... >> Would a bad lifter make a knocking sound?? >>KT From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 16 14:11:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 13:11:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... In-Reply-To: <482DC801.8070508@whoi.edu> References: <482DC801.8070508@whoi.edu> Message-ID: <094c01c8b791$12746ce0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Would a bad lifter make a knocking sound?? Won't say it's impossible, but it's not something I've ever seen or heard of. And I can't quite see how the lifter could fail and not screw up the valve lash in obvious fashion. But it's easy enough to inspect them, once the head is off. FWIW, I drove an TRactor motor for a long time that sometimes made knocking noises at idle. Kinda thought it was piston slap, but never tore it down to find out for certain. When that "freshly rebuilt" TR3 engine fell into my lap, I just swapped it and put the old one into the TR3 I bought just for it's overdrive (and resold without the OD). Never heard from the buyer again, so no idea what he found either. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 16 14:13:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 13:13:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... In-Reply-To: <20080516172217.ZXPE21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <482DBFB0.5010906@whoi.edu> <20080516172217.ZXPE21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <094d01c8b791$412565d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > But if you have > pulling the front apron as much as I do, Finally spotted the typo; should read "... HATE pulling the front apron". Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri May 16 17:04:48 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 19:04:48 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... Message-ID: Kevin, I bought a 3A about a year and a half ago which was a pretty good driver. One day I started to notice a knock at idle that went away when the motor came up to temp. The long and the short of it is that it got worse and then just kind of stayed that way. Removing the plug wire gave pretty much the same as you describe. I communicated with Randall about his and he told me his piston slap story and that it went on for a long time. Well, my anal retentive nature finally took over and I pulled the head and found my #3 piston was the culprit. I have rebuilt the motor and true to the nature of the hobby, the tranny, od, front end, all springs, steering, and am painting the car this weekend. What ever you decide to do with this knock, just know when to stop! Where are you on the Cape? I will be in Chatham, Brewster, and Falmouth this summer visiting and just having fun. (Ooops, just noticed your email. Woods Hole?) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 16 17:24:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:24:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock..... In-Reply-To: <482DCE91.4040300@whoi.edu> Message-ID: <20080516232430.WIYP720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Nah. I replaced it with an aluminum insert in the 2 piece pulley... Still wouldn't hurt to try to turn the motor with it, and see if any play has developed. I believe the key isn't good enough, and if the bolt does not keep the hub clamped tightly against the timing gear, the hub will eventually work it's way loose. My problem was that the steel "insert" I used (just a big flat washer) pulled up against the crank nose instead of against the hub. But with aluminum, I'd be more worried that it would eventually distort enough to relieve the clamping force. Especially since it's going to expand more than the bolt every time the motor warms up. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Fri May 16 17:47:50 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 23:47:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods Message-ID: <051620082347.21832.482E1D2600048B180000554822155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> No, this is not about the cost of Triumph parts. For some time, forever perhaps, I've been plagued by loud engine noise. I assumed that because my bracket for the first alternator conversion was poorly constructed and vibrated like crazy, so that I'd ruined the bearing of the alternator I'd recently converted to, so swapped the alternator out. The sound persisted. Last night and tonight, fighting New England mosquitoes and black flies, I installed the new water pump from Moss. I tried to source a replacement hooked vane pump from Ken Gilanders, but he informed me that the aged gentlemen who manufactured them for him had left the business and he no longer had a supplier. Not a lot of room to on the alternator, as you all know. Less because of the heat shield. Started it again tonight, and with the new water pump the noise has vanished. Maybe because the original pump bearings weren't up to standards, or because of the aforementioned heavy vibration through the belt from the bad bracket, the water pump went bad. The good news is, the new vitron (vitrol?) rubber grommets to seal the fuel resevoir took five minutes to install and got rid of the smell of gas that my wife, who thinks Triumphs are a return to the Dark Ages, complained incessantly about on the second trip she's ever ventured with me. More good news is, I didn't abruptly dump coolant onto Interstate 93. All is well. ...Just need wash the grease off and apply the disinfectant. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri May 16 19:27:50 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 21:27:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods In-Reply-To: <051620082347.21832.482E1D2600048B180000554822155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <482DFC56.20181.102CAEB5@localhost> On 16 May 2008 at 23:47, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > Last night and tonight, fighting New England mosquitoes > and black flies, I installed the new... Terry, it is quite noble of you to offer your blood for those pitiful creatures. Indeed, it is known around the globe that they never get enough to eat. Your compassion is truly remarkable. Will you be feeding them again any time soon? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Fri May 16 19:14:11 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 21:14:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question Message-ID: I have been looking at the early/late head question for some time, and now have a late head (many thanks to Colin Grimes ... who has a really tidy late 71 TR6, and is a really good bloke with a delightful wife to boot!). In a recent exchange with Ibsen Dow on this question, as I was sending him some information from Chris Witor, I noticed that he (Chris, not Ibsen) had made reference to the fact that he has gas flowed all the big 6 heads (and I have his table of head characteristics ... but alas, it lacks the flow rates), but what is interesting is the fact that he has determined that cyls. 2 and 5 are underfed with the standard 2 Stromberg manifold ... have a look at the tables in his analysis (this was on the sixappeal website ... but its gone from there, so I've echoe'd it ... http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Witor.mht). Any idea what Chris did to rework the inlet manifold to balance the gas flow? Kastner is NFG since he dealt with PI or webers only, and William's doesn't reference any fine tuning of the standard 2xCDS manifold in his Tuning TR250 and TR6 book ... I could call Chris (and since I bought some of his work-of-art oversize 1.6" SS inlet valves - undercut and looking like they will add 10BHP just sitting on the workbench ... NFI but I'd recommend the workmanship and service) I think he might share, but I thought I'd see what the list thought first! Incidentally, Witor and Pumford (the Lucas PI guru) appear to be the top folks in terms of their art in the UK, where there are very many more Triumph big 6's running strongly, but not in TR250 or 6 bodies! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From jmitch at snet.net Fri May 16 20:47:15 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 22:47:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] Headlight trim rings Message-ID: <482E4733.1080305@snet.net> I installed new Lucas headlight buckets tonight and I'm having a difficult time getting the trim ring to seat all the way around the bucket rim. I start at the top, and work down and around, but can get the very bottom to pop on. Ive tried 3 different sets of trim rings including an NOS set of Lucas. Is there a trick to this I hope? John Mitchell 76 TR6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri May 16 20:51:00 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 22:51:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, Interesting stuff, but you are wrong-o about Kastner using only the Webers and PI. Kastner got big numbers with twin Strombergs. Over 170 HP. Don't forget that the TR6 ran SCCA D Prod with Strombergs back in the day. The PI cars were CP. This info is "in the book". Kastner wrote the book. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Fri May 16 21:13:28 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 03:13:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] Smog help non TR. Message-ID: Hi List, I have a smog test problem I could really use some suggestions on. I have a 1987 Ford E350 Van with a 460 CI engine. I rebuilt the engine myself 20 years ago and it has always passed smog tests. Two years ago a mechanic replaced the carburetor. Shortly thereafter it passed smog again with some minor carb adjustments. I started to do some maintenance on this van in Dec. two weeks before it;s bi-annual smog test. During the next two months I replaced the cap, rotor, wires, plugs, EGR valves, valve cover gaskets, radiator, water pump, changed the oil and filter, lubed it, and cured exhaust leaks. Twice in that period it has failed smog testing. The last test it failed reported hydrocarbons of 2000 at idle compared to a max allowable of 250. It passed the hydrocarbon test at 2556 Rpms. The C02 was within tolerance at idle and 2556 Rpms. Can anyone give me a clue to why this engine has such high hydrocarbons at idle? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety. http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refr esh_family_safety_052008 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 16 21:19:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 20:19:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods In-Reply-To: <051620082347.21832.482E1D2600048B180000554822155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080517031959.IZQE15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > ...Just need wash the grease off and apply the > disinfectant. You're doing a lot better than me then, Terry. Wednesday night the Stag gave me an eyeful of dirt & crud. Thursday I found two broken teeth in the differential. Today the eye doctor sent me home with a bag full of medication for my eye and instructions to call him tomorrow if it doesn't start to improve. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 16 21:33:24 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 20:33:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Smog help non TR. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080517033324.YNYO25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Can anyone give me a clue to why this engine has such high > hydrocarbons at idle? High HC generally indicates a misfire. Having it just at idle suggests problems with compression or a vacuum leak; but could be almost anything. You didn't mention replacing all the vacuum lines & PCV valve, which IMO is a good idea every 10-15 years. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri May 16 21:57:07 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 23:57:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods In-Reply-To: <20080517031959.IZQE15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <051620082347.21832.482E1D2600048B180000554822155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <482E1F53.28181.10B55E78@localhost> On 16 May 2008 at 20:19, Randall wrote: > Wednesday night the Stag gave me an eyeful of dirt & crud. > Thursday I found two broken teeth in the differential. > > Today the eye doctor sent me home with a bag full of medication Today the opthamologist, tomorrow the dentist. Pray tell, what were you biting and how did the end up in the differential? Seriously, I hope you eyes are okay. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 17 01:05:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 00:05:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods In-Reply-To: <482E1F53.28181.10B55E78@localhost> Message-ID: <20080517070506.EVUS21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Today the opthamologist, tomorrow the dentist. Pray tell, > what were you biting and how did the end up in the differential? Gnawing on the carrier bolts, trying to get them out ! > Seriously, I hope you eyes are okay. Doing better already. Still a little blurry, but doc said it would take a few days for the cornea to heal. Even spent a few hours on the car ... apparently my shed leaks as I poured maybe 1/4 cup of water out of the 'rebuilt' diff. Still trying to decide whether to take a chance on it or run it "as is" ... the pinion bearings feel kind of cruddy when I tighten the nut, so I should probably pull it apart and clean or replace them. Thanks for the concern, Jim. Randall From ktnkt at comcast.net Sat May 17 03:46:56 2008 From: ktnkt at comcast.net (KT) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 05:46:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 knock.... Message-ID: <482EA990.4060706@comcast.net> Well David, I already did everything else,plus wiring harness (from Dan Masters), tranny & O/D (John Esposito) paint, etc.,etc..... The noise starts after warm-up, but lessens on acceleration. It's quiet when cold. I actually know what needs to be done......but I was hoping for the snake oil salesman to stop by and make everything all better...... =-O Looks like yet another one of those greasy weekends. KT ------------------------------------ Kevin, I bought a 3A about a year and a half ago which was a pretty good driver. One day I started to notice a knock at idle that went away when the motor came up to temp. The long and the short of it is that it got worse and then just kind of stayed that way. Removing the plug wire gave pretty much the same as you describe. I communicated with Randall about his and he told me his piston slap story and that it went on for a long time. Well, my anal retentive nature finally took over and I pulled the head and found my #3 piston was the culprit. I have rebuilt the motor and true to the nature of the hobby, the tranny, od, front end, all springs, steering, and am painting the car this weekend. What ever you decide to do with this knock, just know when to stop! Where are you on the Cape? I will be in Chatham, Brewster, and Falmouth this summer visiting and just having fun. (Ooops, just noticed your email. Woods Hole?) David Lylis ------------------------------------------------------------------ Nah. I replaced it with an aluminum insert in the 2 piece pulley... Still wouldn't hurt to try to turn the motor with it, and see if any play has developed. I believe the key isn't good enough, and if the bolt does not keep the hub clamped tightly against the timing gear, the hub will eventually work it's way loose. My problem was that the steel "insert" I used (just a big flat washer) pulled up against the crank nose instead of against the hub. But with aluminum, I'd be more worried that it would eventually distort enough to relieve the clamping force. Especially since it's going to expand more than the bolt every time the motor warms up. Randall Good points! This will be the 1st thing I check when I'm back in the garage today. KT From auprichard at comcast.net Sat May 17 05:54:09 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 07:54:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods In-Reply-To: <20080517070506.EVUS21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <482E1F53.28181.10B55E78@localhost> <20080517070506.EVUS21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <000301c8b814$b7bd91d0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> As a doctor, I should know better, but..... About six months ago, I was invited to have an MRI as part of a research effort. As I jumped into the magnet, the technician said, "You aren't a metal worker, are you?" "No" I said, "I'm a doctor" "Good" she replied, "Just want to make sure you've never done any grinding or had a piece of metal I your eye" Remembering a time when I felt a stinging sensation after grinding down a particularly large weld, I excused myself from the MRI and went to my local optician who promptly took pictures of the TWO rust spots in my conjunctivae and then removed two metal splinters. Warning to all would-be restorers: I always wear goggles, but hot splinters can make their way into eyes with minimal discomfort and MR magnets can be very dangerous. Always worth a mention if you are scheduled for an MR exam. Andrew Uprichard (MD) '62 TR3B '59 TR3A (almost ready for painting !) Massachusetts -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 3:05 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods > Today the opthamologist, tomorrow the dentist. Pray tell, > what were you biting and how did the end up in the differential? Gnawing on the carrier bolts, trying to get them out ! > Seriously, I hope you eyes are okay. Doing better already. Still a little blurry, but doc said it would take a few days for the cornea to heal. Even spent a few hours on the car ... apparently my shed leaks as I poured maybe 1/4 cup of water out of the 'rebuilt' diff. Still trying to decide whether to take a chance on it or run it "as is" ... the pinion bearings feel kind of cruddy when I tighten the nut, so I should probably pull it apart and clean or replace them. Thanks for the concern, Jim. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From maya2blue at juno.com Sat May 17 05:58:09 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 06:58:09 -0500 Subject: [TR] The Green Helmet - illegal to copy! Message-ID: <20080517.065809.2112.2.maya2blue@juno.com> Greetings all, It has been pointed out to me that very possibly (and quite likely!) the copying of a copy is illegal. Therefore I withdraw my offer to send list members a copy of my copy of the Green Helmet. Sorry, and tks to the member that pointed this out to me. If you have already mailed a DVD, I will return it. Best! Harve Harve Thorn ('78 1500 Spitfire) 531 Amen Corner (NASS #79) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat May 17 08:07:07 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 07:07:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regariding the Hardware Catalogue Used by Standard Triumph Vehicles. Message-ID: For people who have this catalogue, can someone please tell me what the difference is between a BOLT - HEXAGON HEAD and SETSCREW - HEXAGON HEAD? Let's take an example, HB0711 1/4" UNF 13/8 looks the same as HU0711 1/4" UNF 1 3/8. Am i missing something simple, or are they the same bolt? Thanks, Sujit From fishplate at charter.net Sat May 17 08:35:35 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:35:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] A question regariding the Hardware Catalogue Used by Standard Triumph Vehicles. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080517143515.GIOA4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 10:07 AM 5/17/2008, sujit roy wrote: >For people who have this catalogue, can someone please tell me what the >difference is between a BOLT - HEXAGON HEAD and SETSCREW - HEXAGON HEAD? I don't have the catalogue, but in general a bolt is meant to clamp two pieces together, while a setscrew is meant to hold a piece fast to a shaft. Thus a bolt has a flat end, while a setscrew has a pointed end. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat May 17 08:43:38 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 07:43:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regariding the Hardware Catalogue Used by Standard Triumph Vehicles. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03CF28B3D18543B690560CEF13F4003E@GeoPC> I don't have the catalog handy so I can't comment specifically -- but I was always under the impression that a bolt has a shank and a screw has threads all the way up. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "sujit roy" To: "Triumphs" Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 7:07 AM Subject: [TR] A question regariding the Hardware Catalogue Used by Standard Triumph Vehicles. > For people who have this catalogue, can someone please tell me what the > difference is between a BOLT - HEXAGON HEAD and SETSCREW - HEXAGON HEAD? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 17 08:52:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 07:52:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regariding the Hardware Catalogue Used by Standard Triumph Vehicles. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080517145242.MKZP15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > For people who have this catalogue, can someone please tell > me what the difference is between a BOLT - HEXAGON HEAD and > SETSCREW - HEXAGON HEAD? "Setscrews" are always fully threaded. "Bolts" aren't. Randall From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com Sat May 17 09:03:18 2008 From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 08:03:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Knock References: Message-ID: <000c01c8b82f$281222b0$c1b05545@DFKQ4L31> It could also be the timing chain. I have had several that make a noise similar to a pin/rod knock. Aways quiet when first starting but once the oil warms up it can be quite load at slow idle. Basicly when the engine runs slowely the cam "Judders" as the lobes crest on the lifters. Usually the noise will go away about 1,000 rpm's. Many cars came with a blob of "Bondo" on the timing chain cover from the factory to help deaden the sound. I have had problems with this with some of the replacement chains from the big three. I had one start making noise in 1,000 miles. So my sugestion is pull the timing cover before pulling the head and see how much slack there is. A good chain will have almost none when installed on new gears. British Parts N/W was suppling "German" gears last time a bought a set and they were of very good quality. NFI by the way. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 17 09:29:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 08:29:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regariding the Hardware Catalogue Used by Standard Triumph Vehicles. In-Reply-To: <20080517143515.GIOA4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <20080517152934.HQMU21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I don't have the catalogue, but in general a bolt is meant to > clamp two pieces together, while a setscrew is meant to hold > a piece fast to a shaft. Another case of two countries separated by a common language. That's an American setscrew, not a British one. British setscrews are sometimes pointed, but it's for easy insertion into the hole (typically when sheetmetal and/or captive nuts have to be lined up) rather than locating onto a shaft. What Americans call a setscrew is known as a "grub" screw to the Brits. Reminds me of the time I asked a friend in Europe to investigate fiberglass fenders for a TR3. Several months later, he finally wrote back to tell me that no one carried them for cars, only boats ! Randall From jtnichols at comcast.net Sat May 17 10:29:46 2008 From: jtnichols at comcast.net (John T Nichols) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 12:29:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] A question regariding the Hardware Catalogue Used by Standard Triumph Vehicles. In-Reply-To: <20080517152934.HQMU21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080517152934.HQMU21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <482F07FA.1060702@comcast.net> http://www.rctek.com/fixings/info_fixings_thread_information.html A decent description with pictures of various bolts and screws from a UK model car perspective. Randall wrote: I don't have the catalogue, but in general a bolt is meant to clamp two pieces together, while a setscrew is meant to hold a piece fast to a shaft. Another case of two countries separated by a common language. That's an American setscrew, not a British one. British setscrews are sometimes pointed, but it's for easy insertion into the hole (typically when sheetmetal and/or captive nuts have to be lined up) rather than locating onto a shaft. What Americans call a setscrew is known as a "grub" screw to the Brits. Reminds me of the time I asked a friend in Europe to investigate fiberglass fenders for a TR3. Several months later, he finally wrote back to tell me that no one carried them for cars, only boats ! Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as jtnichols at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat May 17 14:24:06 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 16:24:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Water Pump Leak Message-ID: <000001c8b85b$f6c528b0$210110ac@bobspc> Now that I've wrapped up all the winter's work (5 speed conversion, Nissan diff, steering & accelerator shaft bushings) and am finally driving the car, I'm getting a small leak from the bottom of the water pump but I can't really see exactly where it's coming from. Not a steady flow, just drops at a time but evidently enough that after 125 miles of driving, the top radiator core was barely covered. The car sat without running for about 5 months which is the longest downtime it's had in 10 years. I've read where the weeping can happen after a long layoff and "may" stop after some driving. I've also read through this article (http://tinyurl.com/2dea5r) on rebuilding your pump and it looks like more then I want to tackle. So my questions are: - where exactly is the weep hole on the water pump? - how much driving does it take and how long should I wait to see if it clears up by itself? - I have new seals and gaskets so is it a matter of just replacing the seals? - any tips or advice on removing and installing a water pump? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sat May 17 15:49:11 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 17:49:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputter update & question Message-ID: <045b01c8b867$d8aa4980$6401a8c0@STATION6> Well, here we are. Check for clogged fuel line from tank to fuel pump. Not clogged. Note, be careful when applying air from the engine end to the tank. Release cap but control air flow or you risk gas going all over your boot. Don't ask. Anyway, no clog. By passed the fuel shutoff valve. Reconnected everything, started engine and after about 20 seconds fired right up and ran for 20-30 seconds. Then shut off. Pulled the fuel line to carb #1, turned engine and a few oz of fuel came out then stopped, no fuel. So it appears I have a gremlin in the fuel pump. So now I am attempting to replace the pump. Should be very easy. Not so. The rear nut, (where the oil gauge line attaches appears to be impossible to get to. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated on how to get to that nut. Alex Manzo 59 TR3A From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 17 16:17:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 15:17:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Water Pump Leak In-Reply-To: <000001c8b85b$f6c528b0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080517221729.FVIB25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > - where exactly is the weep hole on the water pump? Should be in the neck that stick out, inside the pulley, near the bottom. > - how much driving does it take and how long should I wait to > see if it clears up by itself? IMO 125 miles is enough. > - I have new seals and gaskets so is it a matter of just > replacing the seals? To replace the seal that is leaking basically requires following all the steps in that article. It's just like a rebuild except you reuse the old bearings. > - any tips or advice on removing and installing a water pump? Not really, the R&R is the easy part. Drain the coolant first (obviously), and I like Hylomar for gasket dressing. BTW, local Harbor Freight really did have genuine Hylomar at $5/tube. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 17 16:32:00 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 15:32:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputter update & question In-Reply-To: <045b01c8b867$d8aa4980$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <20080517223200.FUSI720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Should be very easy. Not so. The rear nut, (where the oil > gauge line attaches appears to be impossible to get to. Any > and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated on how to > get to that nut. Didn't we cover this just a couple of days ago ? (no particular order) 1) Stubby GearWrench (accept no substitutes) 2) 1/4" drive socket, short extension and ratchet 3) http://www.jmwagnersales.com/fpit.html From tfansher at comcast.net Sat May 17 17:37:10 2008 From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 19:37:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputter update & question References: <045b01c8b867$d8aa4980$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: <002901c8b876$ee3a29a0$39f45444@DCS78M81> I used a 1/4" drive with a 1 1/2" extension (or so) and a 1/2" swivel socket -- works like a charm. It wasn't my idea and someone else on the list has a picture of the set up - but it works. Tom Subject: [TR] TR3A Sputter update & question > Well, here we are. Check for clogged fuel line from tank to fuel pump. Not > clogged. Note, be careful when applying air from the engine end to the > tank. > Release cap but control air flow or you risk gas going all over your boot. > Don't ask. Anyway, no clog. By passed the fuel shutoff valve. Reconnected > everything, started engine and after about 20 seconds fired right up and > ran > for 20-30 seconds. Then shut off. Pulled the fuel line to carb #1, turned > engine and a few oz of fuel came out then stopped, no fuel. So it appears > I > have a gremlin in the fuel pump. So now I am attempting to replace the > pump. > Should be very easy. Not so. The rear nut, (where the oil gauge line > attaches > appears to be impossible to get to. Any and all suggestions would be > greatly > appreciated on how to get to that nut. > Alex Manzo > 59 TR3A From triumphs at consolidated.net Sat May 17 20:12:08 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 21:12:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ricahrd Kinderlehrer Message-ID: Sorry for the wasted band width, (I lost the direct address) Richard. Thank you a million. Ken Gano No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.16/1448 - Release Date: 5/16/2008 7:42 PM From tom628 at verizon.net Sat May 17 21:38:34 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 23:38:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] Water Pump Leak References: <000001c8b85b$f6c528b0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <003a01c8b898$a6eabac0$2f01a8c0@Toms> Bob: I've just had almost the same situation. Installed an elec. fan. Flushed block, etc. ; installed new radiator core. Fresh antifreeze and "Norrosion" (per Fred Thomas,thx), Everything seemed fine: ran cool, all electrics worked. etc. Then a couple of days and ~100 mi. or so I noticed coolant on the garage floor.Tightened everything, but couldn't track it down. Then, strangely, the leaking slowed. Finally, from underneath, I spotted the source at the underside of the water pump. Now after another 100 or so addt'l. miles there's no trace of a leak. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. But, you might just want to give it a little more time before you do anything drastic. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 4:24 PM Subject: [TR] Water Pump Leak > Now that I've wrapped up all the winter's work (5 speed conversion, Nissan > diff, steering & accelerator shaft bushings) and am finally driving the > car, > I'm getting a small leak from the bottom of the water pump but I can't > really see exactly where it's coming from. Not a steady flow, just drops > at > a time but evidently enough that after 125 miles of driving, the top > radiator core was barely covered. The car sat without running for about 5 > months which is the longest downtime it's had in 10 years. I've read where > the weeping can happen after a long layoff and "may" stop after some > driving. I've also read through this article (http://tinyurl.com/2dea5r) > on rebuilding your pump and it looks like more then I want to tackle. So > my > questions are: > - where exactly is the weep hole on the water pump? > - how much driving does it take and how long should I wait to see if it > clears up by itself? > - I have new seals and gaskets so is it a matter of just replacing the > seals? > - any tips or advice on removing and installing a water pump? > > Thanks > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat May 17 22:34:02 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 21:34:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regariding the Hardware Catalogue Used by Standard Triumph Vehicles. In-Reply-To: <20080517143515.GIOA4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> References: <20080517143515.GIOA4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: Thanks Guys. Now I know what a British setscrew is and an American setscrew is. Sujit On 5/17/08, Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > > At 10:07 AM 5/17/2008, sujit roy wrote: > >> For people who have this catalogue, can someone please tell me what the >> difference is between a BOLT - HEXAGON HEAD and SETSCREW - HEXAGON HEAD? >> > > I don't have the catalogue, but in general a bolt is meant to clamp two > pieces together, while a setscrew is meant to hold a piece fast to a shaft. > Thus a bolt has a flat end, while a setscrew has a pointed end. > > > > > Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 > http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ > Athens, Georgia #354 From PACBURROWS at aol.com Sun May 18 09:32:35 2008 From: PACBURROWS at aol.com (PACBURROWS at aol.com) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 11:32:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Wiper motor repairs Message-ID: Good Morning I am looking for someone who can trouble shoot and repair my wiper motor. It was working when I bench tested it during my restoration. But when I put it on the car, NADDA! I had a very good ground and even tried using the battery directly. NADDA! Any ideas? ---any constructive ideas LOL? Paul 57 TR-3 small mouth **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun May 18 11:49:54 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 10:49:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wiper motor repairs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Are you sure you have it wired correctly? As I recall the whole scheme changed dramatically somewhere in the TR3 production. Many wiring diagrams show one version of the wiring that may ro may not be correct for your car. Without pouring over diagrams, I recall that on my 59 TR3A the hot is always on (with the ignition) and the switch controls the ground. Geo H ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:32 AM Subject: [TR] Wiper motor repairs > Good Morning > I am looking for someone who can trouble shoot and repair my wiper motor. > It > was working when I bench tested it during my restoration. But when I put > it > on the car, NADDA! I had a very good ground and even tried using the > battery > directly. NADDA! Any ideas? ---any constructive ideas LOL? > Paul > 57 TR-3 small mouth From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 18 13:24:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 12:24:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stag diff rebuilt Message-ID: <20080518192419.NGBX25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Any Stag differential rebuilders out there ? Looking for suggestions on what to use in place of Churchill S316, the special tool to grab the splines on the pinion shaft while tightening the nut. I could make one on the lathe, but would have to cut all those dang splines by hand. Hoping there's an easier way. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun May 18 13:37:17 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 15:37:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 reservoir can arrangement Message-ID: <00e501c8b91e$95314250$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Hi, I may have asked this before. I still am working on the hydraulics of my TR3. Concerning the reservoir can that serves both the clutch and brake m/c's: which (clutch or brake) m/c-line goes to the tall and narrow cylinder that is within the reservoir? I am trying to get it right this time! Thanks, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 495 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 18 14:51:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 13:51:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 reservoir can arrangement In-Reply-To: <00e501c8b91e$95314250$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080518205129.ZBSE15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Concerning the reservoir can that serves both the clutch and > brake m/c's: > which (clutch or brake) m/c-line goes to the tall and narrow > cylinder that is within the reservoir? Clutch. The disc brakes need an extra-large reservoir because they hold more fluid when the pads wear. The outer portion of the reservoir holds more than the inner cylinder. Randall From pryner at verizon.net Sun May 18 14:56:49 2008 From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter Ryner) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 16:56:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Wiper motor repairs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: You are correct. TRs used two different motors. One was grounded looking for a hot to operate and the other was hot looking for a ground to operate. I only know this from experience. I had picked up a TR in Illinois and was driving it back to North Dakota. Shortly before dusk it started to rain a bit so I turned on the wipers. Everything worked okay until I also turned the lights on a few minutes later. The wipers stopped in mid swipe. I turned the lights out and the wipers started again. I turned the lights back on for a few minutes and soon had smoke pouring out from the hood. Seems the DPO hooked a wire from the light switch to the wiper motor switch and on to the motor which make the ground fine, until the lights were also on which made the . Two hots or two grounds going to the same motor and it wouldn't work. Pete -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Geo & Kathleen Hahn Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 1:50 PM To: PACBURROWS at aol.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Wiper motor repairs Are you sure you have it wired correctly? As I recall the whole scheme changed dramatically somewhere in the TR3 production. Many wiring diagrams show one version of the wiring that may ro may not be correct for your car. Without pouring over diagrams, I recall that on my 59 TR3A the hot is always on (with the ignition) and the switch controls the ground. Geo H ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:32 AM Subject: [TR] Wiper motor repairs > Good Morning > I am looking for someone who can trouble shoot and repair my wiper motor. > It > was working when I bench tested it during my restoration. But when I put > it > on the car, NADDA! I had a very good ground and even tried using the > battery > directly. NADDA! Any ideas? ---any constructive ideas LOL? > Paul > 57 TR-3 small mouth From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun May 18 16:09:49 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 18:09:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 reservoir can arrangement References: <20080518205129.ZBSE15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <00ed01c8b933$e46082e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Perfect answer. Another question: Should a washer (plastic or metal) go between the tall cylinder and the inside bottom of the reservoir? The tall cylinder is indented upwards and away from the bottom so as to look as if one might be required? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 495 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 18 17:12:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 16:12:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 reservoir can arrangement In-Reply-To: <00ed01c8b933$e46082e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080518231203.OWV15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Should a washer (plastic or metal) go between the tall > cylinder and the inside bottom of the reservoir? The tall > cylinder is indented upwards and away from the bottom so as > to look as if one might be required? If memory serves, the original configuration had a washer in there, of what looked like silicone rubber. Remember, whatever you use has to be compatible with brake fluid. Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Sun May 18 17:29:25 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 23:29:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] Spring Loaded Fender Mirror Message-ID: <051820082329.18110.4830BBD4000E7793000046BE22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Now that the TR3A is running so smooth and quiet (ehr, well, sorta...inasmuch as thoaty growls are quiet), I'd really like to have a set of fender mirrors that don't come misaligned everytime I take the carcover on and off. ...I've tried threadlocker, no dice. Didn't someone post here that they had a pair of springloaded ones? Where did they come from again? I can't seem to find that listing. Thanks, all. Terry '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hamphsire ...where I'm building my first ever garage this summer. Can't wait to drop a washer onto cement instead of glaciated sand.... From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sun May 18 19:42:16 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 21:42:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 reservoir can arrangement References: <20080518205129.ZBSE15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> <00ed01c8b933$e46082e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <028601c8b951$921e2dc0$852a7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Both inside and outside. "FT" From allegrorover at mac.com Sun May 18 23:57:53 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 23:57:53 -0600 Subject: [TR] Spring Loaded Fender Mirror In-Reply-To: <051820082329.18110.4830BBD4000E7793000046BE22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <051820082329.18110.4830BBD4000E7793000046BE22165548869C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <69250FFD-B9E0-43AF-8572-EC1C43B792BB@mac.com> Terry, I ordered a pair of those from Revington in the UK. They looked real nice, the problem was the stem where it goes through the fender was about 3/4", the spring was attached to the lower part of of the mirror. (the underside of the fender) I suppose it needed that much in order to stay firmly in place so the spring could operate correctly. I didn't want that large a hole in my fenders so I went with the type that are somewhat a pain, but the hole is smaller. By the way they are NOT cheap!!!!! I finally donated mine to the silent auction at Valley Forge. On May 18, 2008, at 5:29 PM, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > > > Didn't someone post here that they had a pair of springloaded ones? > Where did they come from again? I can't seem to find that listing. > > Thanks, all. > > Terry '59 TR3A (TS 58667) > Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com 58 TR3A TS27093L From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon May 19 07:33:42 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 06:33:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Regarding the no. stamped on the brass tag on the ZS carbs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Jack, Thanks a lot. My carbs where changed at some point as my Stag's a '71. That also explains why the vacuum advance port is absent. Later Stag's did have the vacuum advanced port. Sujit On 5/16/08, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 5/16/2008 1:24:08 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > triumphstag at gmail.com writes: > > I have two tags with me. One has the no. 2477 3509R. The other has 3146 > 3509L. Firstly, how many tags should a pair of carbs. have? > Also, can someone please tell me about the numbers? If there is supposed > to > be only one tag, one came off my Stag the other might have come from a TR7, > but I'm not sure which one. > > > > > each separate carb will have a tag on it - and it will have originally been > on the top cover screw nearest the upper end of the temp. compensator > > anybody working on Strombergs should have a copy of Haynes Weber Carburetor > Manual - which covers Strombergs and SUs as well as it covers Webers. > According to the appendix of that manual, 3509R was the right carb for a 73 > or 74 Stag and 3509L was on the left carb of a 73 or 74 Stag > The first 4 numbers are there just to throw you off - just kidding - the > last 4 numbers and letter are the carburetor reference numbers - i don't > know what the first 4 are - maybe a sequence or serial number of some kind. > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > > > > ------------------------------ > Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at > AOL Food . From flashtr3 at cox.net Mon May 19 08:26:27 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 07:26:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question References: Message-ID: <000d01c8b9bc$53443bb0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Since this seems to be a weakness in the design of the head, the tri-manifold with Weber's, SU's or Stromberg's that are now available for the TR 6 cylinder engine makes more sense, if you are looking for top end performance. Speaking of the tri-manifolds available, is there much performance on the low end of the RPM (torque), especially with triple SU's or triple Stromsburg's, to make that investment to convert from 2 carb to 3 carb set-up? Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Tony Gordon To: 6pack ; TR list Cc: Colin Grimes ; Ibsen Dow Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 6:14 PM Subject: Inlet Manifold Question I have been looking at the early/late head question for some time, and now have a late head (many thanks to Colin Grimes ... who has a really tidy late 71 TR6, and is a really good bloke with a delightful wife to boot!). In a recent exchange with Ibsen Dow on this question, as I was sending him some information from Chris Witor, I noticed that he (Chris, not Ibsen) had made reference to the fact that he has gas flowed all the big 6 heads (and I have his table of head characteristics ... but alas, it lacks the flow rates), but what is interesting is the fact that he has determined that cyls. 2 and 5 are underfed with the standard 2 Stromberg manifold ... have a look at the tables in his analysis (this was on the sixappeal website ... but its gone from there, so I've echoe'd it ... http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Witor.mht). Any idea what Chris did to rework the inlet manifold to balance the gas flow? Kastner is NFG since he dealt with PI or webers only, and William's doesn't reference any fine tuning of the standard 2xCDS manifold in his Tuning TR250 and TR6 book ... I could call Chris (and since I bought some of his work-of-art oversize 1.6" SS inlet valves - undercut and looking like they will add 10BHP just sitting on the workbench ... NFI but I'd recommend the workmanship and service) I think he might share, but I thought I'd see what the list thought first! Incidentally, Witor and Pumford (the Lucas PI guru) appear to be the top folks in terms of their art in the UK, where there are very many more Triumph big 6's running strongly, but not in TR250 or 6 bodies! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon May 19 10:26:17 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 11:26:17 -0500 Subject: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question References: <000d01c8b9bc$53443bb0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <000c01c8b9cd$aa395f20$8215a8c0@garage.local> speaking strictly seat of the pants, when i went from two carbs to three, no other mods, i noticed a lot more torque, even at the low end. i thought it made a huge difference in the car's power. but i didn't stop there. but that's ot. > > Speaking of the tri-manifolds available, is there much performance on the > low > end of the RPM (torque), especially with triple SU's or triple > Stromsburg's, > to make that investment to convert from 2 carb to 3 carb set-up? > > Ibsen From cfisher at borgwarner.com Mon May 19 11:53:30 2008 From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 13:53:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] conact info for the ebay seller of tr3 seats and interior upholstry from Indiana Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCD0113252C@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net> Hi list, Does anyone have an email address or link (or phone number) for the guy in Indiana that makes TR3 seats, cockpit caping, and interior panels? He's in Indiana and I think his ebay id was something like 2tallTim or tootall something. I've bought all my upholstery from him a little at a time. Now that I'm ready for the last pieces, I don't see him on ebay! Anyone have a clue who I mean? He's does great work at a good price by the way. Thanks, Curt "Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" Steve McQueen from Le Mans From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Mon May 19 13:40:26 2008 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 15:40:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] To those in the DC area In-Reply-To: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DBA2@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET> Howdy all! Some friends and I in the DC area have been toying with the idea of putting together a loose confederation (let's NOT use the word "club") of LBC owners to get together from time to time. Sort of a "cars and coffee" type idea, followed perhaps by a drive in the area. Most of us are in the Bethesda-Chevy Chase-NW DC area, but that of course isn't essential. If you've got a Healey and you're in the DC area, and wouldn't mind gathering with other LBC people on an informal basis -- like a Saturday morning in a supermarket or starbucks parking lot -- drop me an email! ************* Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1968 MGC Tourer 1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1959 Austin Healey 3000 Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From ray at raysmg.com Mon May 19 16:29:42 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 15:29:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] conact info for the ebay seller of tr3 seats and interior upholstry from Indiana Message-ID: <20080519152942.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.f9103bd537.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Curt, Looks like he's still there...the user ID is 2talltr3 ( http://myworld.ebay.com/2talltr3 ). I bought my interior from Tim as well...really like it. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon May 19 18:06:58 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 17:06:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] To those in the DC area In-Reply-To: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DBA2@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET> References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DBA2@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET> Message-ID: <050E3EDD67C7428C95331A5AA02E69E0@GeoPC> Great concept, best of luck with it. I'm about 2000 miles to far outside the beltway to particpate but thought I'd pass along a link to the one-page website that might give you or others some ideas: http://www.geocities.com/arizona.roadrunner/ Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steinman, Bill" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Tony Gordon" ; "TR list" Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 12:40 PM Subject: [TR] To those in the DC area > Howdy all! Some friends and I in the DC area have been toying with the > idea of putting together a loose confederation (let's NOT use the word > "club") of LBC owners to get together from time to time.... From tom628 at verizon.net Mon May 19 21:27:49 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 23:27:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question References: <000d01c8b9bc$53443bb0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <004301c8ba29$7b25cf00$2f01a8c0@Toms> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ibsen Dow" To: "Tony Gordon" ; "TR list" Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:26 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question > Since this seems to be a weakness in the design of the head, the > tri-manifold > with Weber's, SU's or Stromberg's that are now available for the TR 6 > cylinder > engine makes more sense, if you are looking for top end performance. > > Speaking of the tri-manifolds available, is there much performance on the > low > end of the RPM (torque), especially with triple SU's or triple > Stromsburg's, > to make that investment to convert from 2 carb to 3 carb set-up? > > Ibsen > Ibsen: I completely agree with Ibsen. The triple carbs made a very noticeable difference. Not only more top end power but stronger in mid-range and at the bottom as well. Tom From tom628 at verizon.net Mon May 19 21:48:35 2008 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 23:48:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question References: <000d01c8b9bc$53443bb0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> <004301c8ba29$7b25cf00$2f01a8c0@Toms> Message-ID: <005001c8ba2c$61e2f3d0$2f01a8c0@Toms> OOPS ! I meant to say "I completely agree with Oliver" Sorry. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Note" To: "Ibsen Dow" ; "Tony Gordon" ; "TR list" Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 11:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ibsen Dow" > To: "Tony Gordon" ; "TR list" > > Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:26 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question > > >> Since this seems to be a weakness in the design of the head, the >> tri-manifold >> with Weber's, SU's or Stromberg's that are now available for the TR 6 >> cylinder >> engine makes more sense, if you are looking for top end performance. >> >> Speaking of the tri-manifolds available, is there much performance on the >> low >> end of the RPM (torque), especially with triple SU's or triple >> Stromsburg's, >> to make that investment to convert from 2 carb to 3 carb set-up? >> >> Ibsen >> > > Ibsen: I completely agree with Ibsen. The triple carbs made a very > noticeable difference. Not only more top end power but stronger in > mid-range > and at the bottom as well. > > Tom > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tdskip at yahoo.com Mon May 19 22:25:32 2008 From: tdskip at yahoo.com (Tom Deutsch) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 21:25:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Any adjustments to stop 2nd gear from popping? Message-ID: <634381.13639.qm@web55601.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Hi guys - thanks in advance for any coaching or help. Short of a gearbox out rebuild, are there any adjustments to help prevent second gear from popping out of gear? The other gears are fine, and second gear only pops out on deceleration. I found this out, of course, after having a shop remove and replace the existing gearbox with a supposedly newly rebuilt / low mileage one. Shift action is good, clutch engagement is a bit low, and the newly installed gearbox has to correct oil in it. So I'm out the cost of the box, labor and most likely the new box and labor. Argh... Thanks, Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 19 22:41:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 21:41:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Any adjustments to stop 2nd gear from popping? In-Reply-To: <634381.13639.qm@web55601.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080520044150.UMKB21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Short of a gearbox out rebuild, are there any adjustments > to help prevent second gear from popping out of gear? No, not really. You could try putting a band-aid on the problem by shimming up the detent spring on the 1-2 shift rail; but IMO it's not likely to help much and is a lot of work. Randall From BearTranserv at aol.com Tue May 20 10:28:41 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 12:28:41 EDT Subject: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods Message-ID: In a message dated 5/16/2008 9:22:17 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Thursday I found two broken teeth in the differential. Today the eye doctor sent me home with a bag full of medication for my eye and instructions to call him tomorrow if it doesn't start to improve. Randall And what did the dentist say about your teeth? Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family favorites at AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 20 11:16:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 10:16:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blood Sacrifice to the Triumph Gods In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01f101c8ba9d$2fe88ae0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > And what did the dentist say about your teeth? Already got a new set ! 3.45 ratio, too Unfortunately, turns out the "rebuilt" diff they were in has bad bearings so now I'm learning how to rebuild a diff at the school of hard knocks. Randall From robertko at charter.net Tue May 20 11:27:41 2008 From: robertko at charter.net (robertko at charter.net) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 10:27:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Vacuum Message-ID: <20080520132741.T8URE.118895.root@fepweb14> To the list, My TR6 has a rough, lumpy idle. I'm going through all of the standard troubleshooting steps to identify and correct any problems in an attempt to smooth out the idle. I measured 11 inches on my vacuum gauge and believe it is too low for idle vacuum. If anyone has measured the vacuum on a smooth idling TR6, could you post what your measurement was? I took my measurement from the 1/4 inch nipple which is part of the brake booster nipple on the intake manifold. thanks Robert 74 TR6 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 20 11:39:31 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 10:39:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Intake Manifold Vacuum In-Reply-To: <20080520132741.T8URE.118895.root@fepweb14> References: <20080520132741.T8URE.118895.root@fepweb14> Message-ID: <020f01c8baa0$761d3b20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > If anyone has measured the vacuum on a smooth idling TR6, > could you post what your measurement was? Robert, I can't answer your question, just wanted to point out that the original vacuum retard will cause a low vacuum reading. So if you are going to compare numbers, you need to know what the ignition timing was at the time (retard working or not). Randall From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Tue May 20 15:47:07 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 17:47:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Weird spark plug behaviour Message-ID: <14797054.1211320027677.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi Folks, I've just taken the plugs out and noticed 3 and 4 had a white coloration. This is strange because when I first got the car I rebuilt the carbs and have not touched them since. This was 9 years ago (wow) and about 17k miles. (about every 3 months I look at the plug color - always has been a nice tan-brown) So I richened the rear carb (for plugs 3 and 4) by two flats on the jet. Went for a 10 mile drive and plug 4 color had changed to yellow! So I richened the rear carb (for plugs 3 and 4) by two more flats on the jet. Went for a 10 mile drive and plug 4 color had changed to tan-yellow. So I richened the rear carb (for plugs 3 and 4) by two more flats on the jet and leaned out front carb 1 flat (plugs 1 and 2 look a little rich) Went for a 10 mile drive and here's what they look like now, left to right plugs 1, 2, 3, 4: http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a241/AdrianJones34/Plugs.jpg So, the rear carb has been enrichened by a total of 6 flats and still no sign of sootiness. Car runs great. Any idea whats going on? (If you have a suggestion would you mind emailing me. I'm on Digest and was hoping to drive the car to my new job tomorrow.) Cheers, Adrian TS 58324 From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue May 20 19:50:04 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 21:50:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Herald Boot Lid - NFI Message-ID: <9EA2FDBC02354C49ADE91687F6899A20@D1TG6Y71> http://dallas.craigslist.org/pts/686029367.html ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue May 20 19:59:08 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 21:59:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Inlet Manifold Question References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: I must admit I had thought the same ... and to that end I thought I'd look at my collection of Triumph "history" books and looked at the design of the various manifolds. At a glance, it seems that the 2000, Vitesse, and GT6 manifolds are all very stubby -- very short and it is difficult to see a distinct runner -- and the 2500-TR250-6 manifolds are all somewhat similar in shape with visible and longer runners. I plan to call Chris Witor to see if he can shed any light on the manifold design question in his article, but I suspect you (and others) are right .. this applies to the 1.5" short runner manifold design. Moving on to the TR6 with its longer runner 3-1 manifolds in terms of breathing, and from a purely bar-room mechanic view of how a one-to-three manifold might work, I would guess that there has to be some flow differences between 1 & 3 compared to 2 (and 4 & 6 with 5) since the runner length is different. Of course, I don't have a manifold to hand to look at the runner I/Ds to see if they are smaller for any of the legs, or if there are any flow shaping differences between the various legs of the manifold. The differences in flow per cylinder will be less than that mentioned in Witor's T2000 manifold tuning article, I'm sure, but I'd be interested to learn what the difference was! In terms of runner design, Kastner mentions in his tuning guide that the PI and Weber cars really benefited from the nicely sculpted single runner per cylinder design, and also showed that by lengthening the runners/trumpets, you can increase the power: his work seems to show that (counter intuitively ...?) mounting the PI injectors as far away from the valves as possible increased power and race performance. The after-market EFI thinking seems to assume that squirting the injected fuel at the back of the inlet valve is the best approach, and so injectors are mounted very close to the valves. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shawn J. Loseke" Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 2:16 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question > Its also specifically talking about manifolds and carburetors for a > 2000TC. > Might have more in common with the GT6 than the TR6. Which always used > 1-/34" > carbs (never 1-1/2) but did use two different intake manifolds (short > runner > and long runner). > > The head numbers could be the same, other than thickness for compression, > but > the manifolds could very well be apples and oranges. > > Shawn From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue May 20 21:04:32 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 23:04:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] clutch/brake fluid transfer w/in reservoir Message-ID: <000a01c8baef$651a9490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Unfortunately, I have only been partially successful in trying to get my TR3's brake/clutch reservoir leakproof. The good news is that the outside of the reservoir does not leak fluid. However, inside the can is a small leak which allows brake fluid to change from one chamber to the other chamber after several days. Of course, the clutch 'chamber' is a tall cylindrical metal tube that sits inside the brake reservoir. I think that if one keeps the reservoirs full (neither the clutch system nor brake system leaks fluid), then no transfer takes place between the 'chambers'. What is the harm in doing this? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 543 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From flashtr3 at cox.net Tue May 20 21:34:42 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 20:34:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] clutch/brake fluid transfer w/in reservoir References: <000a01c8baef$651a9490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <003501c8baf3$9b8d5810$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Paul, I have had the same problem in my TR3 for 10 years, and have not had any braking or clutch issues. You would continue to top off as needed. However, with a functional MS reservoir a drop in the fluid let's you know what hyd system is leaking. Ibsen Dow 1959 TR3A 1971 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: dorpaul To: list Triumph Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 8:04 PM Subject: [TR] clutch/brake fluid transfer w/in reservoir Unfortunately, I have only been partially successful in trying to get my TR3's brake/clutch reservoir leakproof. The good news is that the outside of the reservoir does not leak fluid. However, inside the can is a small leak which allows brake fluid to change from one chamber to the other chamber after several days. Of course, the clutch 'chamber' is a tall cylindrical metal tube that sits inside the brake reservoir. I think that if one keeps the reservoirs full (neither the clutch system nor brake system leaks fluid), then no transfer takes place between the 'chambers'. What is the harm in doing this? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 543 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 20 21:45:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 20:45:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] clutch/brake fluid transfer w/in reservoir In-Reply-To: <000a01c8baef$651a9490$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080521034513.RUFQ21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I think that if one keeps the reservoirs full (neither > the clutch system nor brake system leaks fluid), then no > transfer takes place between the 'chambers'. What is the > harm in doing this? The danger is that, if your clutch line breaks and dumps all the fluid from the clutch side, you will shortly run out of brake fluid as well. Randall From fogbro1 at comcast.net Wed May 21 05:20:43 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 07:20:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Overseas shipping Message-ID: <002901c8bb34$b5c9bd90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> List, I need to ship an overdrive transmission to the U.K. Any suggestions? Where do I start? Thanks, Ed Woods From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed May 21 08:19:51 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:19:51 +0100 Subject: [TR] Overseas shipping References: <002901c8bb34$b5c9bd90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <003401c8bb4d$bc8a3830$0201a8c0@Bevan> Ed - the cheapest way is to find out if a lister is headed this way for a short break and was willing to take it as hand baggage. Otherwise, FedEx or UPS seem the obvious choices but I guess they'll charge the same as they charge for shipping FROM the UK. Won't be the same as mailing a letter! Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:20 PM Subject: [TR] Overseas shipping > List, > > I need to ship an overdrive transmission to the U.K. > > Any suggestions? Where do I start? > > Thanks, > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed May 21 09:08:03 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 16:08:03 +0100 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <004701c8bb54$78b03540$0201a8c0@Bevan> > Moving on to the TR6 with its longer runner 3-1 manifolds in terms of > breathing, and from a purely bar-room mechanic view of how a one-to-three > manifold might work, I would guess that there has to be some flow > differences between 1 & 3 compared to 2 (and 4 & 6 with 5) since the runner > length is different. Of course, I don't have a manifold to hand to look at > the runner I/Ds to see if they are smaller for any of the legs, or if there > are any flow shaping differences between the various legs of the manifold. > The differences in flow per cylinder will be less than that mentioned in > Witor's T2000 manifold tuning article, I'm sure, but I'd be interested to > learn what the difference was! Tony, if it helps, I've got a used Witor recommended manifold on my PI. It's the type I always recommend when this topic crops up as it's the 6-3-1 type. FWIW (and I believe the manifold in question is the former pattern from SAH and Triumphtune/Moss) the individual pipes are all (visibly) about the same length. Indeed, the pipe for #6 curves behind pipes 2 to 5 and snicks neatly in to #1. Many of us in the UK believe this design is arguably the best because the scavenging effect is best and with pipes of roughly equal length it can be argued the *bangs* all have to travel an equal distance before getting mixed up with all the other *bangs*. Certainly, this set-up makes a phenomenal difference to performance as a whole and makes an overall noise that probably isn't legal through just one main silencer and a tailpipe resonator. Gives me a splitting headache after a while - but what the hell, you can hear everything is working just fine! Jonmac From triosan at gmail.com Wed May 21 09:34:18 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 08:34:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question In-Reply-To: <004701c8bb54$78b03540$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> <004701c8bb54$78b03540$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805210834n7e69920wed0e67a32c6a0d7a@mail.gmail.com> You can see this header at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/KingstonHeaderVerusPacesetter The header John was referring to was supplied by Tony-Lindsey Dean of Kingston ?? in the UK. By a qirk of construction mine now goes to a single silencer under the passenger seat sice and exits straight down at the entrance to the tunnel the exhaust pipe was supposed to go in. Loud [beautiful in a race car, helmet cuts the noise]. On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 8:08 AM, John Macartney < standardtriumph at btinternet.com> wrote: > > Moving on to the TR6 with its longer runner 3-1 manifolds in terms of > > breathing, and from a purely bar-room mechanic view of how a one-to-three > > manifold might work, I would guess that there has to be some flow > > differences between 1 & 3 compared to 2 (and 4 & 6 with 5) since the > runner > > length is different. Of course, I don't have a manifold to hand to look > at > > the runner I/Ds to see if they are smaller for any of the legs, or if > there > > are any flow shaping differences between the various legs of the > manifold. > > The differences in flow per cylinder will be less than that mentioned in > > Witor's T2000 manifold tuning article, I'm sure, but I'd be interested to > > learn what the difference was! > > Tony, if it helps, I've got a used Witor recommended manifold on my PI. > It's the type I always > recommend when this topic crops up as it's the 6-3-1 type. FWIW (and I > believe the manifold in > question is the former pattern from SAH and Triumphtune/Moss) the > individual pipes are all (visibly) > about the same length. Indeed, the pipe for #6 curves behind pipes 2 to 5 > and snicks neatly in to > #1. Many of us in the UK believe this design is arguably the best because > the scavenging effect is > best and with pipes of roughly equal length it can be argued the *bangs* > all have to travel an equal > distance before getting mixed up with all the other *bangs*. Certainly, > this set-up makes a > phenomenal difference to performance as a whole and makes an overall noise > that probably isn't legal > through just one main silencer and a tailpipe resonator. Gives me a > splitting headache after a > while - but what the hell, you can hear everything is working just fine! > > Jonmac > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From skip47 at clearwire.net Wed May 21 09:54:29 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 08:54:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Overseas shipping References: <002901c8bb34$b5c9bd90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> Message-ID: <008901c8bb5a$f53856a0$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Ed- There's more involved than just boxing, addressing, and sending. It's got to clear customs, and you've got to pay duties and fees. Go to your local shipping company and talk to them. If they don't do export/import, they can point you to someone who can give you the details. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Woods" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 4:20 AM Subject: [TR] Overseas shipping > List, > > I need to ship an overdrive transmission to the U.K. > > Any suggestions? Where do I start? > > Thanks, > > Ed Woods > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as skip47 at clearwire.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed May 21 10:05:48 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 16:05:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] Overseas shipping In-Reply-To: <003401c8bb4d$bc8a3830$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <002901c8bb34$b5c9bd90$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> <003401c8bb4d$bc8a3830$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: Try USPS international priority. Best regards, Tom > From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com > To: fogbro1 at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:19:51 +0100 > Subject: Re: [TR] Overseas shipping > > Ed - the cheapest way is to find out if a lister is headed this way for a short break and was > willing to take it as hand baggage. > Otherwise, FedEx or UPS seem the obvious choices but I guess they'll charge the same as they charge > for shipping FROM the UK. > Won't be the same as mailing a letter! > > Jonmac > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed Woods" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 12:20 PM > Subject: [TR] Overseas shipping > > > > List, > > > > I need to ship an overdrive transmission to the U.K. > > > > Any suggestions? Where do I start? > > > > Thanks, > > > > Ed Woods > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Change the world with e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ChangeWorld From goh56agan at comcast.net Wed May 21 11:13:30 2008 From: goh56agan at comcast.net (goh56agan at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 17:13:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] pulley conversion/ fan elimination Message-ID: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> List, I should have come to the list in the first place. In the process of my TR4 build I planned to convert to the 1/2" fan belt and replace the fan with an electric. Seemed simple enough. After purchasing the 1/2" pulley conversion kit, I realized that it did not eliminate the fan so now I need a way to do this. Anyone have any experience with this? Do I need another kit? If so where can I get it. Can I replace the fan shaft with a bolt to hold the pulley on? What size? Do I need a harmonic balancer? Do I sell the car and buy a Miata? JK Thanks in advance. Gary O From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed May 21 11:39:29 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 10:39:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] pulley conversion/ fan elimination In-Reply-To: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@c omcast.net> References: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@c omcast.net> Message-ID: Not sure what kit you have, but the one I have (for a TR3) came with a water pump pulley, an alternator pulley, and a crankshaft pulley that was a harmonic balancer ... it defiantly eliminates the mechanical fan ... >List, >I should have come to the list in the first place. In the process >of my TR4 build I planned to convert to the 1/2" fan belt and >replace the fan with an electric. Seemed simple enough. After >purchasing the 1/2" pulley conversion kit, I realized that it did >not eliminate the fan so now I need a way to do this. Anyone have >any experience with this? Do I need another kit? If so where can I >get it. Can I replace the fan shaft with a bolt to hold the pulley >on? What size? Do I need a harmonic balancer? Do I sell the car >and buy a Miata? JK Thanks in advance. >Gary O -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu Wed May 21 11:42:35 2008 From: gilmo004 at mc.duke.edu (Arnold S. Gilmour) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 13:42:35 -0400 Subject: [TR] Saloon on Craig's list Message-ID: Triumph Saloon (Wayne County) Reply to: sale-689474293 at craigslist.org Date: 2008-05-21, 12:37PM EDT Those interestedmay want to check out the Raleigh NC Craig's list ad that appeared today. Pictures at ad, I have no interest financial or otherwise, Arnold From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed May 21 11:54:47 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 13:54:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? Message-ID: <000001c8bb6b$c43806c0$210110ac@bobspc> I just removed my leaky water pump and, of course, the nuts were frozen solid but at least the studs backed out easily. I ended up cutting the nuts off the stud with my Dremel. So what's the best thing to use when re-installing the new pump? Anti-seize on both ends of the stud or Lock-Tite on the engine side of the stud and anti-seize on the nut end? I'm leaning toward anti-seize on both ends as it's always nice to have "options" when removing a nut from a stud i.e. nut comes off or stud and nut back out together. Also.....hylomar on the water pump gasket? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 21 12:57:33 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 11:57:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] pulley conversion/ fan elimination In-Reply-To: References: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Message-ID: <047501c8bb74$87490850$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > ... it defiantly eliminates the > mechanical fan ... Well put, Bill ! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 21 13:10:17 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 12:10:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] pulley conversion/ fan elimination In-Reply-To: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> References: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Message-ID: <048b01c8bb76$4e2aec30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > After purchasing the 1/2" pulley conversion kit, I > realized that it did not eliminate the fan Where did you find a kit that did not eliminate the fan ? > Can I replace > the fan shaft with a bolt to hold the pulley on? I've done that on several TR3As now, with a big flat washer to grab the hub. On the first engine, it worked out great; but on the second engine it turned out that the washer was bottoming against the end of the crank instead of the hub. So the hub eventually worked loose on it's key, damaging both hub and crank. So I fabricated a cup-shaped washer from a cast-iron pipe cap. But it's a lot easier to just buy the kit from Rick Patton : http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanEliminator.htm > Do I need a harmonic balancer? Lots of debate on that topic. Having covered over 100,000 miles without one, I'd say the answer is "No". At least on the street and observing stock redline. Likely the story is different if your engine turns over 5000 rpm for significant lengths of time. Mine wouldn't pull over 4800 in 4th OD > Do I sell the car and buy a > Miata? Surely you could get a better deal for your soul than a Miata ! Randall From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Wed May 21 13:51:10 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 15:51:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] pulley conversion/ fan elimination In-Reply-To: <047501c8bb74$87490850$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> <047501c8bb74$87490850$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > > ... it defiantly eliminates the > > mechanical fan ...> > Well put, Bill !> > Randall It's an example of what I call a Freudian typo. John H. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed May 21 14:18:22 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 16:18:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? In-Reply-To: References: <000001c8bb6b$c43806c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000501c8bb7f$d3d213a0$210110ac@bobspc> Thanks Bob...... I went with anti-seize on both ends of the stud and hylomar on the gasket. No leaks! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _____ From: robert fabie [mailto:bobfabie at gmail.com] Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 2:35 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? Bob: I would recommended using anti-seize because I believe that one or two of the bolts used to attach the water pump are exposed to water because they are attached through a water jacket or thermostat housing. Using Lock-Tite in lieu of lock washers is preferred by some people, but either one should be just fine. Hope this helps. Bob On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 1:54 PM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: I just removed my leaky water pump and, of course, the nuts were frozen solid but at least the studs backed out easily. I ended up cutting the nuts off the stud with my Dremel. So what's the best thing to use when re-installing the new pump? Anti-seize on both ends of the stud or Lock-Tite on the engine side of the stud and anti-seize on the nut end? I'm leaning toward anti-seize on both ends as it's always nice to have "options" when removing a nut from a stud i.e. nut comes off or stud and nut back out together. Also.....hylomar on the water pump gasket? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as bobfabie at gmail.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1457 - Release Date: 5/20/2008 4:45 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed May 21 15:32:46 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 17:32:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? In-Reply-To: <000501c8bb7f$d3d213a0$210110ac@bobspc> References: Message-ID: <48345CBE.11967.F2E93BE@localhost> > I went with anti-seize on both ends of the stud and > hylomar on the gasket. No leaks! What happens if you put both Lock-Tite and Anti-Seize on both ends? Inquiring minds want to know. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 21 15:52:27 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 14:52:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? In-Reply-To: <48345CBE.11967.F2E93BE@localhost> References: <48345CBE.11967.F2E93BE@localhost> Message-ID: <04eb01c8bb8c$f61de8f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What happens if you put both Lock-Tite and Anti-Seize on both ends? Illegal in most states, isn't it ? Randall From deruiterville at hotmail.com Wed May 21 15:54:20 2008 From: deruiterville at hotmail.com (Randy&Val DeRuiter) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 16:54:20 -0500 Subject: [TR] pulley conversion/ fan elimination In-Reply-To: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> References: <052120081713.14948.4834583A000E7BDF00003A642215586394020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Message-ID: Another vendor out there is www.trparts.com to eliminate the fan extension, NFI but it looks like it would work. I have a thin belt kit on the shelf but for now I did my alternator conversion using a wide belt and have held off on the fan. Randy 64 TR4> From: goh56agan at comcast.net> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 17:13:30 +0000> Subject: [TR] pulley conversion/ fan elimination> > List,> I should have come to the list in the first place. In the process of my TR4 build I planned to convert to the 1/2" fan belt and replace the fan with an electric. Seemed simple enough. After purchasing the 1/2" pulley conversion kit, I realized that it did not eliminate the fan so now I need a way to do this. Anyone have any experience with this? Do I need another kit? If so where can I get it. Can I replace the fan shaft with a bolt to hold the pulley on? What size? Do I need a harmonic balancer? Do I sell the car and buy a Miata? JK Thanks in advance.> Gary O> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as deruiterville at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Make every e-mail and IM count. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ MakeCount From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed May 21 16:34:12 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 18:34:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? References: <48345CBE.11967.F2E93BE@localhost> <04eb01c8bb8c$f61de8f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <003801c8bb92$cb6803b0$6601a8c0@userb38463fba5> Well for certain in California! JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 5:52 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? >> What happens if you put both Lock-Tite and Anti-Seize on both ends? > > Illegal in most states, isn't it ? > > Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed May 21 16:56:13 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 18:56:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? In-Reply-To: <003801c8bb92$cb6803b0$6601a8c0@userb38463fba5> Message-ID: <4834704D.5394.F7AFC2B@localhost> On 21 May 2008 at 18:34, Jerry Van Vlack wrote: > Well for certain in California! > >> What happens if you put both Lock-Tite and Anti-Seize on both ends? > > > > Illegal in most states, isn't it ? Not as of last week, I believe. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From DLylis at aol.com Wed May 21 17:40:38 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 19:40:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Painting Message-ID: I have sprayed bonnets and boots and wings, but have not had the questionable pleasure of spraying an engine bay. I won't say I'm a pro but I can do a decent job, nothing that color sanding and buffing can't make look really good. I have just finished the engine bay on my 3A, and I have to say, what a PITA. If I were to do it all over again I would mask the bulkhead and opposite inner wing and spray the remaining. Wait a day or so and mask the bulkhead and painted wing and spray the remaining . . .and, you get the picture. The overspray issue is such a pain. Am I on the right track here, or am I overthinking it? I used an HVLP gravity feed, but still!! Comments please David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From DLylis at aol.com Wed May 21 17:43:58 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 19:43:58 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/21/2008 4:54:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > What happens if you put both Lock-Tite and Anti-Seize on both ends? Illegal in most states, isn't it ? That would be tite-seize David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 21 19:09:27 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 18:09:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] IRS Stub axle bearings Message-ID: <056801c8bba8$7b854310$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Listerati : Working through the diff on my Stag is a new experience to me. Last night I pulled apart one of the stub axles; which leads to my question : Near as I can tell, there is nothing that locates the ball bearing on the stub axle, except friction. Is that right ? The axle cannot move very far in or out, since in one direction it's stopped by the unmachined portion of the stub axle; and in the other direction it comes up against the flange. But it appears that there is nearly .25" between those two points. The manual only mumbles something about pushing the bearing on until it's "near" the end of the taper and then check for interference between the slinger and something. Seems awfully vague, when everything else has to be shimmed within .001" ... Randall From goh56agan at comcast.net Wed May 21 20:53:58 2008 From: goh56agan at comcast.net (goh56agan at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 02:53:58 +0000 Subject: [TR] fan eliminator Message-ID: <052220080253.13320.4834E0460000E3E4000034082212059214020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Thanks all, The fan eliminator kit looks like it will work for me. Yeah, that's the ticket! Gary O From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed May 21 21:04:41 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 23:04:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Done, Done, Done! Message-ID: <000001c8bbb8$99e44670$210110ac@bobspc> Finally.....I think I'm done with my winter work....from the car to the web site. And sometimes I think the web site takes more time then the car! The car now has a: Toyota 5 speed, Nissan differential, new upgraded brakes at all 4 corners, Steering Column Bushings, Accelerator Shaft bushings, Poly Tranny Tunnel, Even MORE FatMat, Nylatron Rear Suspension Bushings, Goodparts' Trailing Arm Kit, New Solid Driveshaft, Rebuilt Servo, New Clutch M/C, New Front and Rear Engine Seals, New Oil Pan Gasket, New Engine Mounts, Grill Fixed, Engine Painted, New Water Pump and Web Site UPDATED! Whew.........and the car runs great. I can't even imagine how you guys do a frame off restoration and maintain your sanity. It's been a nerve racking few months for me and my stuff pales when compared to what so many of you do! I asked lots of questions and I always got lots of help from the two Lists. You guys are great! Thanks so much. Oh yea.... I redid lots of my links so I hope the site works OK for everyone. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From levilevi at comcast.net Wed May 21 21:55:29 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 21:55:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Done, Done, Done! References: <000001c8bbb8$99e44670$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <005a01c8bbbf$ade31ff0$9d63b043@rolofson> Bob, Congrats on finishing up. What a great feeling. I can never decide what is more inspirational...your willingness to experiment with roadworthy upgrades or your ability to document them on one of the very best TR websites (VTR awards for it) out there. For those of us that love a good upgrade thanks. Bud Rolofson P.S. my browser (IE 7) got an error message on these links, heat shield, carb rebuild 06, and stub axle upgrade 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Danielson To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; '6-Pack' Cc: 'Rick Patton' ; AEGDesign at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 9:04 PM Subject: [TR] Done, Done, Done! Finally.....I think I'm done with my winter work....from the car to the web site. And sometimes I think the web site takes more time then the car! The car now has a: Toyota 5 speed, Nissan differential, new upgraded brakes at all 4 corners, Steering Column Bushings, Accelerator Shaft bushings, Poly Tranny Tunnel, Even MORE FatMat, Nylatron Rear Suspension Bushings, Goodparts' Trailing Arm Kit, New Solid Driveshaft, Rebuilt Servo, New Clutch M/C, New Front and Rear Engine Seals, New Oil Pan Gasket, New Engine Mounts, Grill Fixed, Engine Painted, New Water Pump and Web Site UPDATED! Whew.........and the car runs great. I can't even imagine how you guys do a frame off restoration and maintain your sanity. It's been a nerve racking few months for me and my stuff pales when compared to what so many of you do! I asked lots of questions and I always got lots of help from the two Lists. You guys are great! Thanks so much. Oh yea.... I redid lots of my links so I hope the site works OK for everyone. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com Wed May 21 21:59:57 2008 From: ccgunn1010 at hotmail.com (David Gunn) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 20:59:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Woodland Pictures Message-ID: Hi All - I've posted a few pictures of Triumphs that I took at the British car show in Woodland, CA on Sunday, May 19th. The link is: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dgunn/sets/ Just click on the "Woodland, CA - 2008" set. In case anyone is curious, mine is the signal red tr2 longdoor, and I took 2d place in my class. Enjoy! David Gunn 1954 TR2 TS3388L Chico, CA _________________________________________________________________ Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety. http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refr esh_family_safety_052008 From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed May 21 16:33:06 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 18:33:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] arrested development? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C083D2DC5@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Hello the list: What ever happened to the alloy head for the TR6 that Canley Classics had under development? Not that I could ever afford such a nice thing, but it was interesting to watch. I seem to recall they were supposed to be releasing a light-weight head for the TR6 during 2006. They had pictures of the blank and all. Now, no references to the project seem to be on their site. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu May 22 08:11:58 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 09:11:58 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] Good paint shop in the DC metro area? Message-ID: <26014342.4038211211465518513.JavaMail.root@vms125.mailsrvcs.net> Bill, Did not ever see a response for this. Motorhead in Fairfax recommends: Manassas Quality Auto Body- 703 368 5715 Fairfax Quality Auto Body- 703 591 6090 Classic Coachworks- 540 754 9366 I would also call Mountjoy's on the other side of the beltway and ask for a recommendation. Craig H. Nicholls 1972 Triumph TR6 From: "Steinman, Bill" Date: 2008/05/06 Tue AM 11:45:43 CDT To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Good paint shop in the DC metro area? Howdy all! Does anyone happen to know of a good paint shop in the DC metro area? I need to do some repainting work on one of the little English cars, and I'm terrible with a spray gun. Thanks! NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From wquincy at cox.net Thu May 22 12:06:39 2008 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 13:06:39 -0500 Subject: [TR] cockpit back panel hardware Message-ID: <489DDD68-679B-4A1F-8914-493A4F2B7727@cox.net> Greetings Listers, I'm installing a Roadster Factory interior kit in my post 60000 s/n TR3A. The panel covering the gas tank in the cockpit came with three pieces of mounting hardware that totally confuse me. Could some one enlighten me as to how they are used. Thanks Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu May 22 13:14:07 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 15:14:07 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize? Message-ID: > What happens if you put both Lock-Tite and Anti-Seize on both ends? Illegal in most states, isn't it ? Randall Only those south of the Mason Dixon and west of Kalifornia.... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 5/21/2008 3:54:40 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Thu May 22 14:45:25 2008 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 16:45:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Paint Shop DC Area Message-ID: <380-220085422204525390@earthlink.net> Bill, I had a very good experience with Motorhead's place, Manassas Quality Autobody. The owner's name is Tom, and he runs a great shop. If you click on my web page below, You'll see lots of photos of their work. Cheers, Tom Marincic http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From ebutschek at austin.rr.com Thu May 22 15:00:43 2008 From: ebutschek at austin.rr.com (Eric Butschek) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 16:00:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] Stag diff rebuilt In-Reply-To: <20080518192419.NGBX25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080518192419.NGBX25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Did you ever get a reply on this? I will be rebuilding my Spitfire Diff. soon, so I would like to follow your progress on this... Thanks, Eric, Austin Tx. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "Triumph Stag Discussion Forum" ; "Triumphs" Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 2:24 PM Subject: [TR] Stag diff rebuilt > Any Stag differential rebuilders out there ? > > Looking for suggestions on what to use in place of Churchill S316, the > special tool to grab the splines on the pinion shaft while tightening the > nut. > > I could make one on the lathe, but would have to cut all those dang > splines > by hand. Hoping there's an easier way. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ebutschek at austin.rr.com > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > No virus found in this incoming message > Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (4.0.0.26 - 10.072.008). > http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ No virus found in this outgoing message Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (4.0.0.26 - 10.072.023). http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 22 15:35:43 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 14:35:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stag diff rebuilt In-Reply-To: References: <20080518192419.NGBX25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <074201c8bc53$ca59cf50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Did you ever get a reply on this? Hi Eric : I got several replies. The one that seems most practical is to just install the carrier and ring gear, then use a big screwdriver to jam the carrier. (Thanks, Mike !) However, while I don't know much about Spitfire differentials, I suspect this problem does not apply to them. I believe on the Spit you can simply drill a flat bar so it can be bolted to the input flange, then use the bar & flange to keep the pinion from turning while tightening (or loosening) the nut. Randall - currently waiting for bearings, seals & shims to come in. From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Thu May 22 19:32:28 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 21:32:28 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] More on the yellow plugs Message-ID: <17412123.1211506349096.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> The plot thickens. Plugs 1 and 2 are OK. They have brown deposit after a run or after idling. Colourtune shows a blue flame at idle. Plugs 3 and 4 have yellow deposit (not tan) after a run. Colourtune tune shows yellow flame at idle and plugs become sooty. So, cylinders 3 and 4 are rich at idle but lean when cruising. This doesn't make sense to me. I checked for air leaks at carb/manifold and manifold/block but everything is fine. Also, no cracks in manifold. I can't see how the ignition could cause this. Re-checked valve clearances and everything OK. Disassembled carbs - everything appears OK. All I can think of is maybe the water ways are blocked around 3 and 4, causing localised overheating, or is that too stupid. Adrian, driving a Toyota in sunny NC From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 22 21:35:18 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 20:35:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on the yellow plugs In-Reply-To: <17412123.1211506349096.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080523033518.LDYQ8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > So, cylinders 3 and 4 are rich at idle but lean when > cruising. This doesn't make sense to me. At least one possible explanation is that the jet and/or needle are worn. The wear causes the idle mixture to go rich; then when you lean out the idle mixture with the adjustment, it leaves the cruise (and power) mixture too lean. In effect, it alters the needle profile. You might try swapping jets & needles front to back and see what effect it has on the problem. Another possibility is oil past the valve stems. Tends to flow more in the rear, because of the extra oil running back from the front. Oil deposits can also sometimes be funny colors (as can fuel). Randall From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Thu May 22 21:49:03 2008 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 23:49:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stag diff rebuilt In-Reply-To: <074201c8bc53$ca59cf50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <20080518192419.NGBX25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> <074201c8bc53$ca59cf50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: Randall's right about pulling and replacing the pinion shaft. I used the flat bar method on my spit differential last summer and did the same on my TR6 yesterday. In fact, on the TR6 you have to do that for both output flanges as well if you are replacing the oil seals. Tim Gaines 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 On Thu, 22 May 2008 14:35:43 -0700 "Randall" wrote: >> Did you ever get a reply on this? > > Hi Eric : > > I got several replies. The one that seems most >practical is to just install > the carrier and ring gear, then use a big screwdriver to >jam the carrier. > (Thanks, Mike !) > > However, while I don't know much about Spitfire >differentials, I suspect > this problem does not apply to them. > I believe on the Spit you can simply drill a flat bar so >it can be bolted to > the input flange, then use the bar & flange to keep the >pinion from turning > while tightening (or loosening) the nut. > > Randall - currently waiting for bearings, seals & shims >to come in. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph >Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mtgaines at mail.presby.edu > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Fri May 23 12:00:39 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 18:00:39 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors Message-ID: <052320081800.2304.48370647000053770000090022155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> I have been having some on-again-off-again problems with the TR4. The car runs great, then not at all, then OK again. I had to coast it home last Sunday. It shut down completely and would not restart. The other day I got a minute to go out to the shop and it started right up and ran. I didn't have time to drive it. Before I amputate the Pertronix, I'm going to try another rotor. I have heard a lot of talk about rotors causing trouble in Lucas distributors. I have just ordered a Borg-Warner brand rotor from my local FLAPS (it's an O'Rielly) and am going to pick it up after work. I don't remember what the consensus was on the dielectric strength of the different brands. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Fri May 23 13:46:06 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 15:46:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 connecting rod dimensions References: <000e01c8bd09$f2b2ab50$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> Message-ID: After seeing how a Chevy rod could be used in a TR4, I've been doing a little looking around, and have seen some rods by Eagle that "might" be close ... I don't have the actual factory dimension for the rods, so wondered whether any had actually done some really good measurements? I have the following nomial sizes and wonder ig anyone could verfity the EB ones (Mk. 1 eyeball with digital caplier assistance!) .. the BM ones are from the Bentley manual. Rod between centers: 5.8" (EB) Small end bore: 0.937-0.938" (BM) Wrist pin dia: 0.8122-0.8126" (BM) Con. Rod bore: 2.015" (EB) Crank Pin dia: 1.8750-1.8755" (BM) Rod thickness: 0.9" (EB) In case anyone has gone down this path ... the Eagle Ford Zetec log rod looks promising 5.7", 2.00" and 0.927" and at $320 for 4, a real deal! Tony Gordon From tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org Fri May 23 13:52:08 2008 From: tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 14:52:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors In-Reply-To: <052320081800.2304.48370647000053770000090022155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <052320081800.2304.48370647000053770000090022155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5981BC5474D345BC8A167E8F92D1D74E@aitinc.local> Phil, Make sure the new rotor will clear the Pertronix unit. Some of the aftermarket rotors have clearance issues with the Pertronix. Terry Geiger 59 MGA Roadster~59 MGA Coupe~74 Triumph TR6~70 MGBGT~63 Triumph Herald~84 Mercedes 300D www.ShoalsBritishCars.org ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 1:00 PM Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors >I have been having some on-again-off-again problems with the TR4. > > The car runs great, then not at all, then OK again. I had to coast it > home last Sunday. It shut down completely and would not restart. The > other day I got a minute to go out to the shop and it started right up and > ran. I didn't have time to drive it. > > Before I amputate the Pertronix, I'm going to try another rotor. I have > heard a lot of talk about rotors causing trouble in Lucas distributors. > > I have just ordered a Borg-Warner brand rotor from my local FLAPS (it's an > O'Rielly) and am going to pick it up after work. I don't remember what > the consensus was on the dielectric strength of the different brands. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, > 1994 Miata C package > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. > _______________________________________________ From pethier at comcast.net Fri May 23 13:59:55 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 19:59:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors Message-ID: <052320081959.16561.4837223B000A5614000040B122165499769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Terry Geiger" > Phil, > Make sure the new rotor will clear the Pertronix unit. Some of the > aftermarket rotors have clearance issues with the Pertronix. Thanks! -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Fri May 23 17:02:59 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 19:02:59 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" Message-ID: <14984461.1211583780180.JavaMail.root@elwamui-sweet.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Me again, Thanks Fred, Chip and Randall for suggestions. I'm on it!!! I just need a recommendation for a set of good quality plugs wire (price no object) that I could get from Advance Auto, etc. I've just ordered a (MGB - push in style) distributor cap, rotor and NGKs from Advanced Auto - I can collect them tomorrow. Surely there is a set of of modern wires that could be used. I don't want to be cutting, etc. In the trunk is a new TRF distributor cap and solid core set of bumble bee wires but I heard they are not suitable for use with the Pertronix ignition. Thoughts? Cheers, Adrian TS 58324 From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri May 23 17:07:26 2008 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 16:07:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] WTB TR6 Fender Message-ID: <54756.6979.qm@web83309.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> If recently picked up a TR6 to go along with my TR3. I need a new front left fender, preferably rust free. By chance does anyone have one that they would part with? Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA From wsb1960tr3a at att.net Fri May 23 17:14:58 2008 From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net (William Brewer) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 16:14:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Changing TR3 Rear Leaf Springs Message-ID: <254840.50880.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> So I was in my TR3 pulling away from a stop sign when I heard something like four shot gun blasts in rapid succession and the left rear corner of the car dropped several inches. I got out and found that 4 leaves on the springs had broken at the leading edge of the lowest short spring leaf. I was fortunate to have not been doing one of my land speed record runs... Has anyone done a write-up on how to change out the leaf springs? I did a write-up years ago on how to change out floor pans. Unless you want to drill a hole in the body just aft of the doors, is it possible to change them out without lifting the body off of the frame? If you want to jack up the car body off of the frame, leaving the forward most mounting bolts loose as pivots, what do you need to connect first? Any idea how long this all takes? TIA, Bill Brewer Tehachapi, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 23 18:06:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 17:06:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Changing TR3 Rear Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: <254840.50880.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <254840.50880.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <09ca01c8bd31$f8472b40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Unless you want to drill a hole in the body just aft of > the doors, is it possible to change them out without lifting > the body off of the frame? Maybe. The front of the spring is held to the frame by a special pin that passes through a tube in the frame. There is a tapped hole in the pin, which in theory can be used to pull the pin out of the frame and spring. With the pin out of the way, the rest is trivial. Sorry I don't recall the thread size offhand, but you should be able to make a suitable puller from some high-tensile threaded rod (MMC has Grade B7), washers and nuts; plus a suitable length of pipe. I'd suggest also spraying the pins with Kroil or PB Blaster and letting it soak in overnight. Use a good lube on the threads. When the nut feels tight enough to strip something, try whacking the other end of the pin sharply with a 3-5 pound hammer a few times. The shock of the hammer blows should help loosen it in the tube. Hopefully the nut will then turn a bit more. Repeat as necessary (or until you're ready to remove the body). I switched nuts & threaded rod for the other side, as the first one looked pretty badly worn. Randall From mmarr at notwires.com Fri May 23 19:06:32 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 20:06:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] Changing TR3 Rear Leaf Springs References: <254840.50880.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <09ca01c8bd31$f8472b40$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <001601c8bd3a$693c6e20$6401a8c0@mikeslaptop> > Maybe. The front of the spring is held to the frame by a special pin that > passes through a tube in the frame. There is a tapped hole in the pin, > which in theory can be used to pull the pin out of the frame and spring. > With the pin out of the way, the rest is trivial. > > Sorry I don't recall the thread size offhand, but you should be able to > make > a suitable puller from some high-tensile threaded rod (MMC has Grade B7), > washers and nuts; plus a suitable length of pipe. I'd suggest also > spraying > the pins with Kroil or PB Blaster and letting it soak in overnight. Use a > good lube on the threads. > The tapped hole thread size is 5/16-24 UNF. I have done this job a couple of times and never had to drill the fabled hole. Patience, pentrating oil and the careful use of a BFH as Randall suggests did the trick for me. Mike From terryrs at comcast.net Sat May 24 05:51:05 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 11:51:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" Message-ID: <052420081151.28285.48380129000EF62C00006E7D22147564029C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Adrian, I'm running copper core wires with a Pertonix ignition. Runs smooth and with excellent power. Am interested to hear if there is a problem with copper and Pertonix that I'm not aware of. Good question. Terry Smith, TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: Adrian Jones > Me again, > Thanks Fred, Chip and Randall for suggestions. I'm on it!!! > I just need a recommendation for a set of good quality plugs wire (price no > object) that I could get from Advance Auto, etc. I've just ordered a (MGB - > push in style) distributor cap, rotor and NGKs from Advanced Auto - I can > collect them tomorrow. Surely there is a set of of modern wires that could be > used. I don't want to be cutting, etc. > In the trunk is a new TRF distributor cap and solid core set of bumble bee wires > but I heard they are not suitable for use with the Pertronix ignition. > Thoughts? > Cheers, Adrian TS 58324 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat May 24 09:32:47 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 08:32:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stromberg plug o-rings References: Message-ID: <001e01c8bdb3$6b67f5b0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello List, I have searched and found reference to the o-ring for Stromberg bowl bottom plug to be style/type 2-114, correct? One recommendation said use Vitron only, another said Ethylene... only. What's the latest......... and where can I get them please? Regards, Bob From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Sat May 24 07:25:41 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 09:25:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Changing TR3 Rear Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: <254840.50880.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <254840.50880.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > Unless you want to drill a hole in the body just aft of the doors, is it possible to change them out without lifting the body off of the frame? I attached a fender washer to the head of the pin with a 5/16 fine bolt using the threaded hole to which Randall refers. This allowed me to put the tines of a pickle fork under the washer. Then I beat the other end of the pickle fork with a BFH in such a manner as to lever the fork using the frame as a fulcrum and pull the pin towards the center of the car. As the pin moves out, you can put the pickle fork tines under the head of the pin. I used Aerokroil, a torch, and swear words all the while. One of my pins was bent, so it was harder to remove. I cut the bent end of the pin off with a sawzall to allow the pin to slide through the hole. Hopefully, you won't have to do this. Good luck! John H. From rgperry at earthlink.net Sat May 24 08:06:21 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 09:06:21 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] cartridge oil filter Message-ID: <21462687.1211637981699.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hello List, While changing the oil and ran out of the original style cartridge filter with the small bolt hole on one side and the large hole on the other. The replacement filter has the same size large hole on both ends. I don't remember if this makes a difference on the oil pressure or filtration because of the lager opening on one end. Does anyone know the answer? Regards, Greg Perry TR6 From skip47 at clearwire.net Sat May 24 09:12:42 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 08:12:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" References: <14984461.1211583780180.JavaMail.root@elwamui-sweet.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000201c8bdb2$1cef6ae0$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Magnecor has the best wires anywhere, period. (NFI, just a satisfied customer). They're in Michigan, and have a design already listed for your car; just choose which size wire you want. The 7mm wires are p/n 4778, they were $38 last year. Call 248-471-9505, they can ship in less than a week. Best, Skip Gurnee 64TR4 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Adrian Jones" To: Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 4:02 PM Subject: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" > Me again, > Thanks Fred, Chip and Randall for suggestions. I'm on it!!! > I just need a recommendation for a set of good quality plugs wire (price no object) that I could get from Advance Auto, etc. I've just ordered a (MGB - push in style) distributor cap, rotor and NGKs from Advanced Auto - I can collect them tomorrow. Surely there is a set of of modern wires that could be used. I don't want to be cutting, etc. > In the trunk is a new TRF distributor cap and solid core set of bumble bee wires but I heard they are not suitable for use with the Pertronix ignition. Thoughts? > Cheers, Adrian TS 58324 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as skip47 at clearwire.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 24 09:25:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 08:25:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stromberg plug o-rings In-Reply-To: <001e01c8bdb3$6b67f5b0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <20080524152553.YZIX15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I have searched and found reference to the o-ring for > Stromberg bowl bottom plug to be style/type 2-114, correct? Can't find my note at the moment, but I'm pretty sure that's not the right number. -114 would indicate a 5/8" od, and the bore in the rod is much smaller than that. > One recommendation said use Vitron only, another said > Ethylene... only. Viton would work I believe; but I used ordinary Buna-N (nitrile rubber) as I believe that's what the originals were (and what I had on hand). EPDM/EPR (Ethylene Propylene whatever) is definitely the wrong thing, IMO, as it has poor resistance to petroleum oils. You can read more about O-ring materials at any number of web sites, including MMC and http://www.epm.com/material_guide.htm > What's the latest......... and where can I get them please? ISTR Mine came from Harbor Freight, in one of these kits http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2901 Bought on sale for 1/2 price; figuring that even one O-ring used from it would pay for the kit. It's been handy many times since then. In fact, just a few days ago, I tried several O-rings from the kit until I found the one that fit my bearing extractor (holds the tip to the forcing screw). Randall From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat May 24 09:28:05 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 15:28:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR6 connecting rod dimensions In-Reply-To: References: <000e01c8bd09$f2b2ab50$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> Message-ID: For those of you that might be interested hereare the dimensions of the Carillo 6" Chevy 350 rods I have. Center to center crank journal to wrist pin = 6.0" Crank journal hole = 2.223" Wrist pin bushing = 0.927" Thickness at mid shaft = 0.622 Width at mid shaft = 1.26" "H" beam construction Best regards, Tom > From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 15:46:06 -0400 > Subject: [TR] TR6 connecting rod dimensions > > After seeing how a Chevy rod could be used in a TR4, I've been doing a > little looking around, and have seen some rods by Eagle that "might" be > close ... I don't have the actual factory dimension for the rods, so > wondered whether any had actually done some really good measurements? > > I have the following nomial sizes and wonder ig anyone could verfity the EB > ones (Mk. 1 eyeball with digital caplier assistance!) .. the BM ones are > from the Bentley manual. > > Rod between centers: 5.8" (EB) > Small end bore: 0.937-0.938" (BM) > Wrist pin dia: 0.8122-0.8126" (BM) > Con. Rod bore: 2.015" (EB) > Crank Pin dia: 1.8750-1.8755" (BM) > Rod thickness: 0.9" (EB) > > In case anyone has gone down this path ... the Eagle Ford Zetec log rod > looks promising 5.7", 2.00" and 0.927" and at $320 for 4, a real deal! > > Tony Gordon > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ E-mail for the greater good. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ GreaterGood From flashtr3 at cox.net Sat May 24 09:34:21 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 08:34:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors References: <052320081800.2304.48370647000053770000090022155863949D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001501c8bdb3$a35d3750$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> I thought I was having a rotor issue with my TR3 with it not running right either, sometimes missing. Finally it wouldn't start at all, as it always started for me easily in the mornings. This time "nada", nothing , no spark. It turns out after trouble shooting the dizzy, cap, rotor, wires, ect that the culprit was a loose pertronix. Mounted to the breaker plate, it had come slightly loose. Tightened every thing back up and running like a champ. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; british-cars at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 11:00 AM Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors I have been having some on-again-off-again problems with the TR4. The car runs great, then not at all, then OK again. I had to coast it home last Sunday. It shut down completely and would not restart. The other day I got a minute to go out to the shop and it started right up and ran. I didn't have time to drive it. Before I amputate the Pertronix, I'm going to try another rotor. I have heard a lot of talk about rotors causing trouble in Lucas distributors. I have just ordered a Borg-Warner brand rotor from my local FLAPS (it's an O'Rielly) and am going to pick it up after work. I don't remember what the consensus was on the dielectric strength of the different brands. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sat May 24 09:41:42 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 15:41:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] Changing TR3 Rear Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: <254840.50880.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <254840.50880.qm@web83312.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Changing rear leaf springs can be done without jacking up the car or drilling holes in the body. The pivot bolt for the front of the spring has a hole in it"s head. I believe it is a 5/16 fine thread but double check that. Clean the hole thoroughly with brake cleaner and blow it out with an air hose. Then run a tap into it to clean up the threads. Remove the outside nut from the pivot bolt with a 3/4" box end wrench. Then thread a 5/16" fine thread bolt into the head of the pivot bolt getting it firmly tight. You cannot rotate the pivot bolt since it has a flat index on the frame boss, do not attempt to turn it. Use a pulling device to apply pressure to the bolt in the pivot bolt. I use the forked end of a small crow bar, use your imagination. If the pivot bolt is rusted in and will not move heat it with a torch until you hear it "pop". Then it will move under reasonable pressure. Upon reassembly coat the pivot bolt liberally with anti-sieze. When you get the old springs out I would like to purchase the short leaves from both springs. Email me off list. Best regards, Tom > Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 16:14:58 -0700 > From: wsb1960tr3a at att.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Changing TR3 Rear Leaf Springs > > So I was in my TR3 pulling away from a stop sign when I heard something like four shot gun blasts in rapid succession and the left rear corner of the car dropped several inches. I got out and found that 4 leaves on the springs had broken at the leading edge of the lowest short spring leaf. I was fortunate to have not been doing one of my land speed record runs... > Has anyone done a write-up on how to change out the leaf springs? I did a write-up years ago on how to change out floor pans. > Unless you want to drill a hole in the body just aft of the doors, is it possible to change them out without lifting the body off of the frame? > If you want to jack up the car body off of the frame, leaving the forward most mounting bolts loose as pivots, what do you need to connect first? Any idea how long this all takes? > TIA, > > Bill Brewer > Tehachapi, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety. http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refr esh_family_safety_052008 From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat May 24 13:32:47 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 12:32:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stromberg plug o-rings References: <20080524152553.YZIX15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <004301c8bdd4$f2788440$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Thank you for your reply Randall. Ref. I found said prod. 2-114 was: I.D 5/8, O.D. 13/16, C.S 3/32 Note also said originals did not like Ethanol. Since one is only weeping I'd like to find replacements FIRST. Weather is getting real nice. I'll take a look at Harbor Freight Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Bob Peglow'" ; Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 8:25 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Stromberg plug o-rings > > I have searched and found reference to the o-ring for > > Stromberg bowl bottom plug to be style/type 2-114, correct? > > Can't find my note at the moment, but I'm pretty sure that's not the right > number. -114 would indicate a 5/8" od, and the bore in the rod is much > smaller than that. > > > One recommendation said use Vitron only, another said > > Ethylene... only. > > Viton would work I believe; but I used ordinary Buna-N (nitrile rubber) as I > believe that's what the originals were (and what I had on hand). EPDM/EPR > (Ethylene Propylene whatever) is definitely the wrong thing, IMO, as it has > poor resistance to petroleum oils. > You can read more about O-ring materials at any number of web sites, > including MMC and > http://www.epm.com/material_guide.htm > > > What's the latest......... and where can I get them please? > > ISTR Mine came from Harbor Freight, in one of these kits > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2901 > > Bought on sale for 1/2 price; figuring that even one O-ring used from it > would pay for the kit. It's been handy many times since then. In fact, > just a few days ago, I tried several O-rings from the kit until I found the > one that fit my bearing extractor (holds the tip to the forcing screw). > > Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 24 10:54:13 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 09:54:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stromberg plug o-rings In-Reply-To: <20080524152553.YZIX15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20080524165412.VKIY21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Randall babbled : > Can't find my note at the moment, but I'm pretty sure that's > not the right number. Please ignore everything I said about size ... misread the question ! Thot Bob was asking about the O-rings that seal the needles, not the float bowl plug. Sorry !! But EPDM is also a poor choice for fuel; while Buna-N will stand up to gasoline and ethanol. Randall From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat May 24 14:46:36 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 13:46:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Stromberg plug o-rings References: <20080524165412.VKIY21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <004a01c8bddf$426856b0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> 10 -4 So, type 2-114 could be correct for float bowl plugs? Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'Bob Peglow'" ; Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 9:54 AM Subject: RE: [TR] Stromberg plug o-rings > Randall babbled : > > > Can't find my note at the moment, but I'm pretty sure that's > > not the right number. > > Please ignore everything I said about size ... misread the question ! Thot > Bob was asking about the O-rings that seal the needles, not the float bowl > plug. > > Sorry !! > > But EPDM is also a poor choice for fuel; while Buna-N will stand up to > gasoline and ethanol. > > Randall From triumphstag at gmail.com Sat May 24 13:25:42 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 12:25:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regarding gasket sealer Message-ID: Should I use it anywhere there is a gasket? Sujit From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Sat May 24 13:46:28 2008 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 15:46:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 Engine Seized - Best way to get unstuck? Message-ID: <48387094.1080501@verizon.net> Hello all- So I have been bad and not started the car for over 6 months. Problem is that the engine seems to be frozen. I can not turn it over by hand and I tried putting car in gear and rocking it. but can not get the engine to budge. All was fine when I garaged it. The starter turns but won't engage. So I am kind of stuck. What next to try to unfreeze it? I am fearing having to do a whole tear down (removing gearbox) to get things corrected. Just hate to do that if there is an easier way. Any suggestions? Jerry 1968 GT6 Mk1 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat May 24 13:56:31 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 14:56:31 -0500 Subject: [TR] GT6 Engine Seized - Best way to get unstuck? References: <48387094.1080501@verizon.net> Message-ID: <000d01c8bdd8$5395a200$7d15a8c0@garage.local> pour marvel magic mystery oil in the spark plug holes. leave it for a day, try to move it with a wrench. rinse and repeat. or pb blaster should work too > Hello all- > > So I have been bad and not started the car for over 6 months. Problem > is that the engine seems to be frozen. I can not turn it over by hand > and I tried putting car in gear and rocking it. but can not get the > engine to budge. All was fine when I garaged it. The starter turns but > won't engage. So I am kind of stuck. What next to try to unfreeze > it? I am fearing having to do a whole tear down (removing gearbox) to > get things corrected. Just hate to do that if there is an easier way. > > Any suggestions? > > Jerry > 1968 GT6 Mk1 From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat May 24 14:26:58 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 15:26:58 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Plug_wire_recommendations=3F_=C2=A0Was_=22Yellow_p?= =?utf-8?q?lugs=22?= Message-ID: <8308627.5540261211660818701.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net> That is what I have on my 72 TR6, great wire, looks good, runs right. Craig Vienna, VA From: Skip Gurnee Date: 2008/05/24 Sat AM 10:12:42 CDT To: Adrian Jones , triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" Magnecor has the best wires anywhere, period. (NFI, just a satisfied customer). They're in Michigan, and have a design already listed for your car; just choose which size wire you want. The 7mm wires are p/n 4778, they were $38 last year. Call 248-471-9505, they can ship in less than a week. Best, Skip Gurnee 64TR4 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Adrian Jones" To: Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 4:02 PM Subject: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" > Me again, > Thanks Fred, Chip and Randall for suggestions. I'm on it!!! > I just need a recommendation for a set of good quality plugs wire (price no object) that I could get from Advance Auto, etc. I've just ordered a (MGB - push in style) distributor cap, rotor and NGKs from Advanced Auto - I can collect them tomorrow. Surely there is a set of of modern wires that could be used. I don't want to be cutting, etc. > In the trunk is a new TRF distributor cap and solid core set of bumble bee wires but I heard they are not suitable for use with the Pertronix ignition. Thoughts? > Cheers, Adrian TS 58324 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as skip47 at clearwire.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From thenicholls at verizon.net Sat May 24 14:27:15 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 15:27:15 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Plug_wire_recommendations=3F_=C2=A0Was_=22Yellow_p?= =?utf-8?q?lugs=22?= Message-ID: <2658602.5540341211660835880.JavaMail.root@vms244.mailsrvcs.net> That is what I have on my 72 TR6, great wire, looks good, runs right. Craig Vienna, VA From: Skip Gurnee Date: 2008/05/24 Sat AM 10:12:42 CDT To: Adrian Jones , triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" Magnecor has the best wires anywhere, period. (NFI, just a satisfied customer). They're in Michigan, and have a design already listed for your car; just choose which size wire you want. The 7mm wires are p/n 4778, they were $38 last year. Call 248-471-9505, they can ship in less than a week. Best, Skip Gurnee 64TR4 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Adrian Jones" To: Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 4:02 PM Subject: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" > Me again, > Thanks Fred, Chip and Randall for suggestions. I'm on it!!! > I just need a recommendation for a set of good quality plugs wire (price no object) that I could get from Advance Auto, etc. I've just ordered a (MGB - push in style) distributor cap, rotor and NGKs from Advanced Auto - I can collect them tomorrow. Surely there is a set of of modern wires that could be used. I don't want to be cutting, etc. > In the trunk is a new TRF distributor cap and solid core set of bumble bee wires but I heard they are not suitable for use with the Pertronix ignition. Thoughts? > Cheers, Adrian TS 58324 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as skip47 at clearwire.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat May 24 15:24:42 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 17:24:42 EDT Subject: [TR] Plug wire recommendations? Was "Yellow plugs" Message-ID: Adrian, I'm using magnacore on my TR6....great wires. I noticed that Moss is selling a Cobalt Wire Set.....looks impressive - I don't know anything about them, though. Chip In a message dated 5/23/2008 4:04:13 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, adrianjones747 at earthlink.net writes: Surely there is a set of of modern wires that could be used. I don't want to be cutting, etc. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 24 16:53:03 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 15:53:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] A question regarding gasket sealer In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080524225303.XUOX5514.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Should I use it anywhere there is a gasket? IMO, depends on circumstances. For most gaskets (including the water pump), I like to use Hylomar. But there are a few places it's not appropriate, like exhaust manifolds and cylinder heads. For cam covers, I 'glue' the gasket to the cover with Permatex #3 or RTV, then use Hylomar between the gasket and cylinder head. Gives at least some chance of being able to re-use the gasket next time you check the valves. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 24 17:00:20 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 16:00:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 Engine Seized - Best way to get unstuck? In-Reply-To: <000d01c8bdd8$5395a200$7d15a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <20080524230020.YIFL21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > or pb blaster should work too Or Kroil. Be sure to leave the spark plugs out while you try to turn it. But don't be surprised if you are unhappy with the engine after it's freed up. If it's that stuck, likely a piston ring has rusted to the cylinder wall. Even if you don't break the ring getting it loose, the pits left behind are apt to lead to oil consumption. BTW, Home Depot seems to have started carrying PB Blaster as well as several other products by the same company. Randall From lherault at bu.edu Sat May 24 17:34:28 2008 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L'Herault) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 19:34:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 leaf springs. Message-ID: <002201c8bdf6$b606e9d0$2f01a8c0@ronlherault> I have several intact leaves from a TR 3 rear leaf spring. The very topmost one broke. I have already sold the smallest bit at the bottom but there are 4 other good leaves. If anyone is in need, please contact me off list. I live in North Attleboro, MA. Ron L From kvacek at ameritech.net Sat May 24 18:28:30 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 19:28:30 -0500 Subject: [TR] New TR in the driveway Message-ID: <59C63A49651A4255BB4CF5C3E9F08AF7@KARL> A week or two ago I decided to sell some Triumph parts I had left over, as I had no more Triumphs. First, thanks for the great response - several listers bought parts that I didn't need. God works in funny ways, though. Going through the parts and thinking about the great Triumphs I'd owned over the past 43 years, I felt kind of sentimental. This week, a guy (whom I'd never met) who lives about 2 miles from me sent me an e-mail. He'd found my name through the VTR and was looking for someone who might be interested in a TR4 he'd restored and then left in storage for 25 years. Restored is an overstatement. His paint job is flying off the car, and the interior came from Warshawsky's (the brick and mortar store that was the parent company of J.C.Whitney) but it's at least presentable. I now have a basically rustfree 64 TR4 in the driveway, waiting for a turn in the garage after I finish some stuff on my wife's Midget. It's an original "L O" car, with the OD in place. Original wood dash too, though he "restored" that with some fabric-backed vinyl woodgrain wallpaper. He also tried to start it on 25-year-old gas, which not only doesn't work but it smells incredibly bad. I thought gas stunk after a couple of years, but this stuff is incredibly noxious. Anyway, with some fresh hydraulics, rebuild the carbs, etc, etc, I should be driving it after a couple of days' work. And doing a paint job next winter, I guess. So I guess I'm back. Karl "This year will go down in history. For the first time, a civilized nation has full gun registration. Our streets will be safer, our police more efficient, and the world will follow our lead into the future !" - Adolf Hitler, 1935 From team.net at Daveola.com Sat May 24 20:32:27 2008 From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 19:32:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Rack Conversion? Message-ID: I saw this go by on ebay: Triumph TR2 TR3A steering rack conversion kit http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200222653052 It was $1583 and they had 10 of them, but evidently none of them sold. Does anyone have any experience with this kit, or with any sort of front end conversion? My front end is a mess, I think some of the replacement parts that were fitted before I got the car are wrong and are keeping the front end from going back together properly. But that may just be my ineptitude. So I'm tempted to go with a conversion such as this - my steering box is getting pretty loose anyways, so it seems that problem would be solved as well. Anyone use one of these things or know of any other such solutions? Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From tr6parts at charter.net Sat May 24 22:14:11 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 00:14:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] aluminium flywheel Message-ID: <004301c8be1d$c8f900b0$88409e18@alan> I was wondering if anyone is using an aluminium flywheel in a TR6, and if so, how are the results? thanks, Al From DLylis at aol.com Sun May 25 05:00:10 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 07:00:10 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Rack Conversion? Message-ID: Dave, You can rebuild your existing box for a whole lot less than that. Consider, of course, that you will still have 'old style steering' at the end but it will be good (not excellent). The only part IMO that you will have to farm out is the replacement of the rocker shaft bush and the replacement of the worm gear on the shaft. Follow the directions and pay close attention to the tolerances and you can save $800 - 900. I don't know if the conversions include new tie rod ends, etc. so you may have to factor that as well. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From DLylis at aol.com Sun May 25 05:06:28 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 07:06:28 EDT Subject: [TR] Changing TR3 Rear Leaf Springs Message-ID: Tom, We had communicated about my leaf springs. I lost all my emails and could not remember who needed springs. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From spamiam at comcast.net Sun May 25 05:20:01 2008 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 11:20:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors Message-ID: <052520081120.24532.48394B610001C49800005FD42200758942030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Phil, I had the same problem and It was my coil. It had some sort of internal failure and it was overheating. As it got pe\articularly hot the engine would develop a severe misfire and then stop. When it cooled off it woud fire up and run OK for a while then do it all over again. -Tony -------------- Original message -------------- From: triumphs-request at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 18:00:39 +0000 > From: pethier at comcast.net > Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors > I have been having some on-again-off-again problems with the TR4. > > The car runs great, then not at all, then OK again. I had to coast it home last > Sunday. It shut down completely and would not restart. The other day I got a > minute to go out to the shop and it started right up and ran. I didn't have > time to drive it. > > Before I amputate the Pertronix, I'm going to try another rotor. I have heard a > lot of talk about rotors causing trouble in Lucas distributors. > > I have just ordered a Borg-Warner brand rotor from my local FLAPS (it's an > O'Rielly) and am going to pick it up after work. I don't remember what the > consensus was on the dielectric strength of the different brands. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Sun May 25 06:19:37 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 08:19:37 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Yellow plugs - no luck so far Message-ID: <11528880.1211717977459.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> OK, here's what I've changed: New plugs (NGK BP6HS), bumble bee wires, rotor, distributor cap. Re-cleaned piston rods in carbs. Front and back carb jets set at 13 and 14 flats down. Now, all plugs are showing a white deposit after a run despite showing a yellow flame (Colourtune) at idle. I'm pretty sure there is no air leak anywhere so I think I"m left with a carb rebuild. I'll check the appearance of the coolant in the block before I do that. Bummed about missing out on the good weather but I shouldn't complain - at least I didn't burn a hole in a piston. I'll piddle about with the carbs later today (- would sticking float valves be a possibility?) Anyways, I'll get back when/if I find anything interesting. Thanks for the wire suggestions - I'll be ordering up some Magnecors. Cheers, Adrian TS58325 From ray at raysmg.com Sun May 25 07:35:02 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 06:35:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] New TR in the driveway Message-ID: <20080525063502.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.6003b09b01.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Karl, That's great news on two counts...first, you are no longer Triumph-less (and shouldn't be)...and second, you'll be putting one back on the road, where it belongs! Congratulations, and keep us posted on your progress...which we will be expecting! :) Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun May 25 08:22:44 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 14:22:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] A question regarding gasket sealer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: No, do not use it to mount your carbs. Best regards, Tom > Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 12:25:42 -0700 > From: triumphstag at gmail.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] A question regarding gasket sealer > > Should I use it anywhere there is a gasket? > > Sujit > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Keep your kids safer online with Windows Live Family Safety. http://www.windowslive.com/family_safety/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refr esh_family_safety_052008 From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun May 25 08:40:09 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 14:40:09 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Rack Conversion? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This looks like the Revington rack and pinion kit. I installed it on my TR3a about two years ago. It has made driving the car a dream. Steering is light to the tough and quick. The car tracks straight with my hands off the wheel. I also changed to the TR4 upper a arms, ball joint, and trunions. This kit must have the mounts welded to the front frame horns. Be sure yours are straight before installing it. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ E-mail for the greater good. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ GreaterGood From BearTranserv at aol.com Sun May 25 10:49:07 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 12:49:07 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 connecting rod dimensions Message-ID: In a message dated 5/23/2008 1:46:50 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, triumph at 2simpleusa.com writes: After seeing how a Chevy rod could be used in a TR4, I've been doing a little looking around, and have seen some rods by Eagle that "might" be close ... I don't have the actual factory dimension for the rods, so wondered whether any had actually done some really good measurements? No real information here, but I looked at a TR3 once that was supposed to be very fast and was told they used Chevy pistons in it...... Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun May 25 13:09:54 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 15:09:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] Speedometer Cable Message-ID: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc> Does anyone know the size of the "nut" is on the speedometer cable at the speedometer end? And is the tach have the same size? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From elliottr at rmi.net Sun May 25 14:02:43 2008 From: elliottr at rmi.net (Roger Elliott) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 15:02:43 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR250 Fuel Line Message-ID: <200805251502.43674.elliottr@rmi.net> Hi, I have been trying to get my wife's TR250 running. After I decided it wasn't getting fuel, I noticed the fuel filter was collapsed. I got to looking around and discovered a rubber hose in the gas line right below the fuel tank. This rubber hose has two 90 degree bends - very sharp bends. I quickly decided this was the problem. When I straightened the bends out gas started flowing out of the gas line near the engine where I has removed the fuel filter. So obviously, I need to replace that rubber hose. My questions are: What size would the hose be? 5/16? Should it really have bends in it? The catalog makes it look straight. Thanks, Roger Elliott From triumphstag at gmail.com Sun May 25 14:48:26 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 13:48:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] regarding the washers that came with a set of cylinder head stud/bolts Message-ID: One side of the washer is flat the other side is slightly countersunk. Does the flat side face the cylinder head? Sujit From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 25 17:05:00 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 16:05:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Rack Conversion? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080525230459.BBKU25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > The only part > IMO that you will have to farm out is the replacement of the > rocker shaft bush Changing the bushing was trivial, compared to getting the Pitman arm off the rocker shaft. Threaded rod, flat washers and a socket or two. And the easiest way to remove the seal is to pull it out with the bushing, IMO. > Follow the directions and pay close attention to > the tolerances I'll second that ! After years and years of doing it "by feel", I finally re-checked my work with a cheap dial indicator (indicator and magnetic base $20 from Enco) and found I was missing the mark by .004". The results of that rebuild were truly eye-opening; it steered great ! Another mistake I think some people make is to not have the top adjustment backed off (or removed entirely) while setting the shaft end float. But the main thing that stopped me from even considering a R&P conversion was the loss of the non-rotating control head and turn signals. To me, it's part of the car, and having an MGA turn signal mounted on the dash Just Ain't Right. My two pence, YMMV, etc. Randall - gonna try curing some PC in the kitchen oven while SWMBO is napping ... From terryrs at comcast.net Sun May 25 17:35:04 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 23:35:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Rack Conversion? Message-ID: <052520082335.7617.4839F7A80000404000001DC122147564029C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Powder Coating in the Oven Alas, brave man, inspiration to us all, Soon to meet his maker, or send his wife to the mall. Good luck, Randall! -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > The only part > > IMO that you will have to farm out is the replacement of the > > rocker shaft bush > > Changing the bushing was trivial, compared to getting the Pitman arm off the > rocker shaft. Threaded rod, flat washers and a socket or two. And the > easiest way to remove the seal is to pull it out with the bushing, IMO. > > > Follow the directions and pay close attention to > > the tolerances > > I'll second that ! After years and years of doing it "by feel", I finally > re-checked my work with a cheap dial indicator (indicator and magnetic base > $20 from Enco) and found I was missing the mark by .004". The results of > that rebuild were truly eye-opening; it steered great ! > > Another mistake I think some people make is to not have the top adjustment > backed off (or removed entirely) while setting the shaft end float. > > But the main thing that stopped me from even considering a R&P conversion > was the loss of the non-rotating control head and turn signals. To me, it's > part of the car, and having an MGA turn signal mounted on the dash Just > Ain't Right. > > My two pence, YMMV, etc. > Randall - gonna try curing some PC in the kitchen oven while SWMBO is > napping ... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Sun May 25 17:42:30 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 19:42:30 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Rack Conversion? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/25/2008 6:35:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Changing the bushing was trivial, compared to getting the Pitman arm off the > rocker shaft. Threaded rod, flat washers and a socket or two. And the > easiest way to remove the seal is to pull it out with the bushing, IMO. I must have been lucky. I put a puller on it, tightened it up, and went to bed. When I got up in the morning the pitman arm fairy had left me a nice surprise! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From team.net at Daveola.com Sun May 25 18:14:20 2008 From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 17:14:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Rack Conversion? In-Reply-To: <20080525230459.BBKU25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080525230459.BBKU25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: > But the main thing that stopped me from even considering a R&P conversion > was the loss of the non-rotating control head and turn signals. To me, it's I'll agree with that. As silly as the non-rotating control head is from an engineering perspective, that's definitely part of the car I would like to keep. But I'm under the impression that this kit doesn't change that. >From the auction: "This kit unlike others conversion kits on the market, this kit lets you keep your original steering wheel and controls." William Brewer sent me an email saying he installed the kit and was able to keep his turn signals working. Evidently the harness comes out of the shaft in the middle, so you can wrap the wires a few times around the shaft to deal with rotation. Kludgy, but then again, so is way the control head wiring works on the original cars. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun May 25 18:26:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 17:26:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Steering Rack Conversion? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080526002649.GTNV21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > William Brewer sent me an email saying he installed the kit > and was able to keep his turn signals working. As I understand it, basically the head now turns with the wheel and the turn signals, although they work, do not self-cancel. But I could be mistaken. Bill, you out there ? Randall From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Mon May 26 06:36:50 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 08:36:50 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Solid core plug wires and Pertronix Message-ID: <28240513.1211805411179.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Terry Smith wrote: >>I'm running copper core wires with a Pertonix ignition. Runs smooth and with excellent power. Am interested to hear if there is a problem with copper and Pertonix that I'm not aware of. << This is from the Magnecor site: http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm Scroll down the page for SOLID CORE CONDUCTOR WIRES Cheers, Adrian TS 58325 From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon May 26 06:51:30 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 08:51:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rough day for Team Suey Message-ID: Well, I managed to turn autocrossing into a contact sport yesterday. Triumph vs parking lot pole, Triumph lost. TR6 is no more:( .Sure will miss running you guys at VTR this year. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Make every e-mail and IM count. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ MakeCount From L1J1S at aol.com Mon May 26 07:32:30 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 09:32:30 EDT Subject: [TR] tr3 breather pipe Message-ID: list, enjoying that bbq? with reference to the tr3 breather pipe. having restored the engine compartment i hate to see it get grimmy because of the breather pipe. yes, i am aware that is can serve as a lubricant for the front chassis area. has anyone come up with a idea/solution to prevent this build up of oil? maybe something like a filter or cottton balls. larry **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 26 07:37:15 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 06:37:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] Solid core plug wires and Pertronix In-Reply-To: <28240513.1211805411179.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080526133714.FJYO25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > This is from the Magnecor site: Of course, just once, it would be nice to see a parts supplier saying "You don't need our product" ... but it ain't gonna happen. Worth noting perhaps, that TRactor motor distributor caps have suppression resistors built right into the cap. This, combined with the resistor plugs that most of us use today, tends to keep radiated EMI down. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon May 26 08:37:01 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 10:37:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] Rough day for Team Suey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000801c8bf3d$f8a062b0$210110ac@bobspc> Marty, Ummm.... More details.....any pictures? Are you OK? Inquiring minds want to know! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 8:52 AM To: Triumph List Subject: [TR] Rough day for Team Suey Well, I managed to turn autocrossing into a contact sport yesterday. Triumph vs parking lot pole, Triumph lost. TR6 is no more:( .Sure will miss running you guys at VTR this year. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Make every e-mail and IM count. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ MakeCount This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1466 - Release Date: 5/25/2008 6:49 PM From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon May 26 09:43:48 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 11:43:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Rough day for Team Suey Message-ID: In a message dated 5/26/2008 7:51:46 AM Central Daylight Time, trmarty at hotmail.com writes: > Well, I managed to turn autocrossing into a contact sport yesterday. > Triumph > vs parking lot pole, Triumph lost. TR6 is no more:( .Sure will miss running > you guys at VTR this year. > > Marty > Terrible news, Marty. I hope you are OK. I guess that's always a risk. But on the otherhand, either you got waaay off course or the course was set up too close to the pole. Commiserations Dave From thecrowes at hotmail.com Mon May 26 11:06:57 2008 From: thecrowes at hotmail.com (Frank - Sandy Crowe) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 10:06:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? Message-ID: OK, I can't find the info anywhere in my collection. What is the length of the 3/8" OD brake line used to make a stator tube on a TR3a ('59, TS55223L) with two-piece steering shaft? And what are the dimensions of the slot cut in the end of the tube that engage into the turn signal assembly? All info on making one would be helpful. Mine has been missing since I got the car ten years ago, and now that I have the front apron off to replace the radiator, I decided to get the turn signals back where they belong (as opposed to the current method, a switch on the dash board.) Thanks much Frank From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Mon May 26 11:18:08 2008 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 13:18:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 VB gas tank Message-ID: Just a minor caution to those who may encounter the problem I just did. My gas tank started leaking badly last weekend, and I wanted to make a fast replacement. I looked at Moss, but the tank was NA, so I ordered online from Victoria British. Delivery was very prompt, as always, but it wasn't a good fit. In fact, it really didn't fit at all. The body of the tank has to slide in between two side brackets which provide mounting holes for the bolts that go through the flanges on the tank. The problem was that the tank was just about 3/8" wider than the opening between the brackets. Fortunately I have a die grinder to go with an air compressor (very handy equipment to have over the years), and I was able to grind off about 1/4" from each bracket without cutting into the mounting holes. It should have been a very easy replacement, and it was after the grinding, but I would have been out of luck without access to the grinder. I don't know if the dimensions of the VB tank vary a bit, but I think I would check with the The Roadster Factory or another vendor for a gas tank if I had to do it over again. Not trying to start up a thread on bashing vendors!! Just thought I would describe my experience. Tim Gaines Clinton, SC 1980 Spitfire 1974 TR6 From davidt at opentext.com Mon May 26 12:53:18 2008 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 14:53:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a Driver in vary serious condition Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0AB37B6A@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> This was just pointed out to me by a colleague: http://toronto.ctv.ca/servlet/an/local/CTVNews/20080525/Highway_crash_08 0525/20080525/?hub=TorontoNewHome Anyone we know? Hope he is ok, but it sounds doubtful. Very sad..... David Templeton '59 TR3a ( in her temporary custody ) '74 Spitsix ( in her temporary custody ) '95 Grand Cherokee Limited ( in my custody ) '95 GMC K2500 ( in my custody ) From davidt at opentext.com Mon May 26 12:58:42 2008 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 14:58:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a Driver in vary serious condition In-Reply-To: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0AB37B6A@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> References: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0AB37B6A@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0AB37B77@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Another article, with video. Wow surprising anyone survived in the 3a http://torontosun.com/News/Canada/2008/05/26/5668806-sun.html -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 2:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr3a Driver in vary serious condition This was just pointed out to me by a colleague: http://toronto.ctv.ca/servlet/an/local/CTVNews/20080525/Highway_crash_08 0525/20080525/?hub=TorontoNewHome Anyone we know? Hope he is ok, but it sounds doubtful. Very sad..... David Templeton '59 TR3a ( in her temporary custody ) '74 Spitsix ( in her temporary custody ) '95 Grand Cherokee Limited ( in my custody ) '95 GMC K2500 ( in my custody ) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as davidt at opentext.com http://www.team.net/archive From davidt at opentext.com Mon May 26 13:58:39 2008 From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 15:58:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tr3a Driver in vary serious condition In-Reply-To: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0AB37B77@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> References: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0AB37B6A@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0AB37B77@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E0AB37C27@OTWATMX01.opentext.net> It seems the plate is something like: Ontario plate "60 TR3a" http://gigababy.blogspot.com/2008/05/sigh-air-ambulance-lands-on-highway -400.html -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 2:59 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Tr3a Driver in vary serious condition Another article, with video. Wow surprising anyone survived in the 3a http://torontosun.com/News/Canada/2008/05/26/5668806-sun.html -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+davidt=opentext.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Templeton Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 2:53 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Tr3a Driver in vary serious condition This was just pointed out to me by a colleague: http://toronto.ctv.ca/servlet/an/local/CTVNews/20080525/Highway_crash_08 0525/20080525/?hub=TorontoNewHome Anyone we know? Hope he is ok, but it sounds doubtful. Very sad..... David Templeton '59 TR3a ( in her temporary custody ) '74 Spitsix ( in her temporary custody ) '95 Grand Cherokee Limited ( in my custody ) '95 GMC K2500 ( in my custody ) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as davidt at opentext.com http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as davidt at opentext.com http://www.team.net/archive From trglory at comcast.net Mon May 26 14:22:09 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 16:22:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Need your opinions, please! In-Reply-To: <000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix> References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc> <000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix> Message-ID: <01ac01c8bf6e$2dfc0ce0$89f426a0$@net> Greg; Looks like the right color to me, very much the color of the '67 TR4A that I used to have. From your comments, I'm guessing that you never really wanted BRG in the first place, you wanted Conifer. If it makes you feel any better, the color will get darker as it ages, mine did. It's just my opinion, but I think the car will look fabulous when it is fully outfitted. Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Dito Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 3:14 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please! So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool". Right now I'm on the fence. Thank you all! Greg Dito CD6250L _______________________________________________ No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1466 - Release Date: 5/25/2008 6:49 PM From trglory at comcast.net Mon May 26 14:29:52 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 16:29:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01b701c8bf6f$418ddb70$c4a99250$@net> Frank; Why don't you just buy the correct item from Mark Macy? They're not that expensive. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Frank - Sandy Crowe Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 1:07 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? OK, I can't find the info anywhere in my collection. What is the length of the 3/8" OD brake line used to make a stator tube on a TR3a ('59, TS55223L) with two-piece steering shaft? And what are the dimensions of the slot cut in the end of the tube that engage into the turn signal assembly? All info on making one would be helpful. Mine has been missing since I got the car ten years ago, and now that I have the front apron off to replace the radiator, I decided to get the turn signals back where they belong (as opposed to the current method, a switch on the dash board.) Thanks much Frank _______________________________________________ From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Mon May 26 15:59:59 2008 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 17:59:59 EDT Subject: [TR] Marty Mishap Message-ID: Marty, So sorry that an autocross has taken a car, especially one our ours. I truly hope that you and anyone nearby are OK. I'm guessing, what with your experience, that the course was not set up with safety adequately in mind. Things happen, and many of them can be anticipated by a heads-up course layout. Guess you'll have to share all the details with us to put this into perspective. What lessons can we learn? Regrets, George Haynes ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon May 26 16:10:37 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 18:10:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] speed bleeders Message-ID: <200805261810.37651.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, Anyone ever try these? Ebay item # 270240886598 Looks from the photo the same as the stock bleed screw. Cant see any advantage here. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 26 16:43:51 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 15:43:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] speed bleeders In-Reply-To: <200805261810.37651.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <20080526224351.RUPJ21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Anyone ever try these? > > Ebay item # 270240886598 I haven't, but I've heard from others that have, and like them. > Looks from the photo the same as the stock bleed screw. The main difference is not apparent from the photo. There is a check valve inside that, in theory, means you don't need someone to open and close the bleed valve while someone else works the brake pedal. More info at : http://www.speedbleeder.com/ Don't recall the price offhand, but my FLAPS has them hanging on the wall, and ISTR they were less expensive than the ones you referenced. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon May 26 17:03:56 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 16:03:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080526230356.LCOF25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > And what are the dimensions of the slot cut in the end of > the tube that engage into the turn signal assembly? All info > on making one would be helpful. The length of both the tube and the slot depends on whether you have the 'adjustable' steering wheel or not (actually whether you have the control head for the adjustable steering wheel). Also, I believe the original tube has thinner walls than brake line does ... if you use brake line, you may have a hard time getting the wires through the tube. Easier to just buy one from Mike Macy, IMO. > Mine has been missing since I got the car ten years ago, and > now that I have the front apron off to replace the radiator, Don't need the apron off to replace the tube ... it goes in from the steering wheel side and won't even fit the other way. Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Mon May 26 17:04:20 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 19:04:20 EDT Subject: [TR] Tr3a Driver in vary serious condition Message-ID: >From my friend Tony Fox: "Yes, friends of mine, we were out together all weekend along the Niagara Peninsular and they were returning home. They were sideswiped by a truck, spun around and hit the guard rail and then a van. The car (which was pristine) is totally demolished. she was released from hospital last night with a broken arm and ribs. He was airlifted unconscious with serious injuries and we don't have an update yet. I'll let you know when I hear more. Tony" Mike Moore **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon May 26 16:51:48 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 17:51:48 -0500 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Need your opinions, please! References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc><000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix> <002601c8bf80$031c3b00$6601a8c0@HP> Message-ID: <005301c8bf85$24de4080$8115a8c0@garage.local> my opinion - that's a great color. > >> Listers, >> >> Without going into the aggravating 'how' and 'why' details I would >> greatly >> appreciate opinions of fellow enthusiasts about the color of my freshly >> painted tub. The car is not being built to an original standard but I >> did >> want a particular color that was representative of the traditional >> British >> Racing Green. >> >> Best laid plans were "Murphy-ized' and what I now have is an unusual >> color >> for a 250 that I am heavily biased against because of what the >> expectation >> was and my years of TR ownership. I don't hate the color but everyone >> who >> has seen the car, all non-enthusiasts who have no real basis for >> comparison, >> thinks I'm crazy for considering repainting it, or at least attempting to >> use a blue tinted clear to soften the green. It does remind me of the >> lighter racing green used by Lotus in the 50s, 60s and 70s. All other >> body >> panels are still in primer. >> >> So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your >> valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool". Right now >> I'm >> on the fence. >> >> Thank you all! >> >> Greg Dito >> CD6250L From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon May 26 16:54:27 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 17:54:27 -0500 Subject: [TR] speed bleeders References: <200805261810.37651.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <005401c8bf85$25235fd0$8115a8c0@garage.local> i bought one from this guy. no complaints. i went to the local auto parts stores and found all the speed bleeders except one size. they were cheaper at the store, but istr i couldn't find the slave clutch size for my 69 tr6, so i ordered it from him. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Labuz" To: "Triumph Email List" Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 5:10 PM Subject: [TR] speed bleeders > Hello, > > Anyone ever try these? > > Ebay item # 270240886598 > > > Looks from the photo the same as the stock bleed screw. > > Cant see any advantage here. > > Bob From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon May 26 17:11:18 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 19:11:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Need your opinions, please! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000501c8bf85$d1bb0770$210110ac@bobspc> Greg, If you're talking about the color...... I like it. Is the rear disk brake conversion Don Watson's kit? http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/don_watson.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of FSZEK at aol.com Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 6:28 PM To: dito9561 at bellsouth.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your opinions, please! In a message dated 5/26/08 3:14:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, dito9561 at bellsouth.net writes: So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool". Right now I'm on the fence. Thank you all! Greg Dito Greg, As an owner of two early TR6's , I lust for your J o.d. mount. Care to share info ? Thanks, Frank cc26xxxx,cc54xxxx **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1466 - Release Date: 5/25/2008 6:49 PM From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon May 26 21:19:47 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 20:19:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Need your opinions, please! References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc> <000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix> Message-ID: <0b6701c8bfa8$8452a9c0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> That color green looks great, but if it's really not what you want........................ I could not find color chart for TR250, but there are 5 different greens for TR6s. Code 75 (TR6 years '75 and '76) is called British Racing Green. Rimmer Bros carries the touchup as RX4030. http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php Regards, Bob > So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your > valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool". Right now I'm > on the fence. > > Thank you all! > > Greg Dito > CD6250L From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Mon May 26 19:20:49 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 21:20:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Yellow plugs - more data Message-ID: <22675026.1211851249849.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Well, today I ran some compression tests: Cold engine: 183, 185, 185, 180 psi Normal engine temperature: 174, 174, 176, 169 psi Leak down test on a warm engine gave: 5, 3, 3, 3% Looks like the engine is in pretty good nick. I went the extreme and lowered the jets on both (SU) carbs: 18 flats down from the top. Idle gave sooty plugs, as expected. After a run all plugs were pretty much cleaned but now with a white deposit. Sooooo, Ill be ordering a SU rebuild kit from TRF in the morning unless there are any more ideas. Cheers, Adrian TS 58325 Hope everybody had a pleasant 3 day weekend From DLylis at aol.com Mon May 26 19:23:21 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 21:23:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? Message-ID: Good call. What a PITA to make one and have it fail and have to do it all over again. I think Mark's is $49, at least when I bought mine, and as I recall it is stainless. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From pethier at comcast.net Mon May 26 21:47:54 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 03:47:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] Rough day for Team Suey Message-ID: <052720080347.1204.483B846A000BF913000004B422120592149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: marty sukey > Well, I managed to turn autocrossing into a contact sport yesterday. Triumph > vs parking lot pole, Triumph lost. TR6 is no more:( .Sure will miss running > you guys at VTR this year. > > Marty Damn. Not a good weekend. Dave Lindemann, a Lotus buddy of mine in Hugo Minnesota, just had his home destroyed by a tornado. I have been off email and just heard about it tonight. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From triumphs at consolidated.net Tue May 27 05:46:05 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 06:46:05 -0500 Subject: [TR] WTB TR4 part Message-ID: I need to purchase a TR4 upper steering shaft (complete with the nut that hold the steering wheel on.) If anyone has a parts car available with this piece please contact me off list. Thanks Ken Gano No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1466 - Release Date: 5/25/2008 6:49 PM From flashtr3 at cox.net Tue May 27 08:47:49 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 07:47:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? References: Message-ID: <003c01c8c008$a2738450$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> How do we get in touch with Mark? Email address or phone number would be handy, since my stator tube must be damaged at the end where the wires come out of the bottom of the stator tube. The turn signals work, but the control head turns with the steering wheel. Is it the stator tube or the nut & ferrule that keeps the control head from turning? Any insight would be helpful, since I haven't been able to figure out what is wrong. Ibsen 1959 TR3A 1971 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: trglory at comcast.net ; thecrowes at hotmail.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 6:23 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? Good call. What a PITA to make one and have it fail and have to do it all over again. I think Mark's is $49, at least when I bought mine, and as I recall it is stainless. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue May 27 09:00:20 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 11:00:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? In-Reply-To: <003c01c8c008$a2738450$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <003c01c8c008$a2738450$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: > Is it the stator tube or the nut & ferrule that keeps the control head from> turning?> Any insight would be helpful, since I haven't been able to figure out what is> wrong.> Ibsen> 1959 TR3A Ibsen: Just ran into this Sunday on a friend's TR3. The nut and olive on the end of the steering unit keeps the stator tube from turning (and the oil in the unit) and the keyway in the control unit tube goes into a slot in the stator tube to keep the control unit from turning. Make sure that the stator tube sticks out of the steering shaft at the top far enough that the keyway in the control unit tube engages the slot in the stator tube, otherwise the control unit will turn with the steering wheel. The stator tube only has to stick out of the steering unit a little ways; just enough fo the olive and nut to grab it. John H. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 27 09:16:02 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 08:16:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? In-Reply-To: <003c01c8c008$a2738450$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <20080527151602.HLQG8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > How do we get in touch with Mark? Email address or phone > number would be handy, >From : http://macysgarage.com/myweb6/contact.htm PHONE: (937) 266-1831 (M-F 9AM-4:30PM Eastern) e-Mail: mark at macysgarage.com > Is it the stator tube or the nut & ferrule that keeps the > control head from turning? As John said, the nut & ferrule hold the stator tube, the stator tube holds the control head. Probably the most common problem is the stator tube breaking at the bottom of the slot that the control head engages (ie inside the steering column); which is likely a sign that the turn signal canceling mechanism is binding and putting extra force on the tube. Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 27 11:09:11 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 17:09:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors Message-ID: <052720081709.4569.483C4037000DC47A000011D922155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> I think I found the smoking gun. On the breaker plate, there is a small tab which connects a short wire to a screw on the body of the distributor. This tab is crimped to the wire. This crimp looked good. The tab itself appears to be riveted to the breaker plate with a rivet having a "+" embossed into it. This tab rattles. I reasoned that this could cause an iffy ground that would cause the intermittent ignition. I umcrimped the wire and attached to the wire a ring terminal which I held down with the nearest mounting stud which attaches the Pertronix to the breaker plate. Car runs fine. Good thing, too, as the rotor O'Rielly sold me is the wrong one. Too long. Of course TR44SUE now has ANOTHER problem which I will address in its own thread. Meg the Miata is seducing me now... -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Tue May 27 11:10:54 2008 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 17:10:54 +0000 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? Message-ID: <052720081710.8781.483C409E000A809A0000224D22007481849D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net> > > Is it the stator tube or the nut & ferrule that keeps the > > control head from turning? > > As John said, the nut & ferrule hold the stator tube, the stator tube holds > the control head. > > Probably the most common problem is the stator tube breaking at the bottom > of the slot that the control head engages (ie inside the steering column); > which is likely a sign that the turn signal canceling mechanism is binding > and putting extra force on the tube. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > Another possibility is that the stub that the olive nut screws onto has broken away from the bottom plate of the steering box, allowing the whole assembly including the stator tube to rotate. Bob From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 27 11:21:28 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 17:21:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 mechanical tachometer stopped. Message-ID: <052720081721.16510.483C4318000244030000407E22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> On the test drive to prove to myself that I had repaired the ignition, TR44SUE had another surprise for me: The rev counter stopped counting revs. No, I don't believe that this is related to my ignition work, as the tachometer is mechanical. The tachometer drive comes from the base of the distributor, and I did not take apart the distributor to that extent. Unlike my speedometer, which has been very jumpy since I bought this TR4 in year 2000, the tachometer has up to now been very steady and accurate (checked against mile-markers). What's the most likely cause of sudden total failure? Broken cable? I assume I can disconnect the cable at the distributor end, start the car and determine if the distributor-driven connection is rotating. Any tricks to this? Can I put an electric drill motor on the cable to test the cable/tachometer combination? Which direction to I run the drill motor? Will I ruin something if I accidently go the wrong way (on a speedometer I would not ruin things, it has to deal with the car reversing)? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 27 11:24:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 10:24:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Ignition rotors In-Reply-To: <052720081709.4569.483C4037000DC47A000011D922155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <052720081709.4569.483C4037000DC47A000011D922155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0d4601c8c01e$88f3cc90$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I reasoned that this could cause an iffy ground that would > cause the intermittent ignition. Definitely. Don't forget that that ground wire is a special extra-flexible wire; since it's forced to flex every time the vacuum advance moves. Ordinary stranded wire will eventually break from the flexing; plus interfere to some extent with the vacuum advance. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 27 11:41:45 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 10:41:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 mechanical tachometer stopped. In-Reply-To: <052720081721.16510.483C4318000244030000407E22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <052720081721.16510.483C4318000244030000407E22155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0d4701c8c020$eeabebb0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What's the most likely cause of sudden total failure? Broken cable? IMO Yes, brought on by binding within the head. Sometimes they even bind only when hot and work more-or-less OK cold. > I assume I can disconnect the cable at the distributor end, > start the car and determine if the distributor-driven > connection is rotating. Any tricks to this? Nope; tho if the cable is broken, you may find the broken end inside that connection. > Can I put an electric drill motor on the cable to test the > cable/tachometer combination? Sure. But I'd suggest turning it with fingers first, to see how stiff the head is. Should be almost no resistance at all; if it's stiff then the bushing in the head is binding. > Which direction to I run the drill motor? The cable turns the same way the needle moves. Run your drill backwards. > Will I ruin something if I accidently go the wrong way (on a > speedometer I would not ruin things, it has to deal with the > car reversing)? Nope, won't hurt a thing. The tach movement is identical to the speedo, except for not having the odometer and trip meter mechanisms. In fact, you can substitute one for the other. 60 mph indicated is about 2300 rpm (assuming your speedo calibration is 1150). Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 27 12:10:31 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 18:10:31 +0000 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] Ignition rotors Message-ID: <052720081810.4759.483C4E97000BD6540000129722155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Randall" > Don't forget that that ground wire is a special extra-flexible wire; since > it's forced to flex every time the vacuum advance moves. Ordinary stranded > wire will eventually break from the flexing; plus interfere to some extent > with the vacuum advance. I saw that coming, so I stayed with the same wire. The insulation is difficult to strip, it is so soft. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 27 12:19:32 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 18:19:32 +0000 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] TR4 mechanical tachometer stopped. Message-ID: <052720081819.4612.483C50B4000381470000120422155517249D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > >it has to deal with the car reversing)? > > Not really. The engine is always turning in the same direction. The > xmission is resposible for making you go backwards. That phrase was referring to the speedo, not the tach. > However, > since the speedo can handle it, one would think the tach would have > the same mechanics in it to handle a reversal. That's exactly what I thought I was asking about. Randall pointed out that the cable turns the same way as the needle, so counter-clockwise is the correct way to set the drill motor. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From drsandner at embarqmail.com Tue May 27 12:24:00 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 14:24:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] color Message-ID: <565B5DAEF205474BAC8AF818B6955D12@randyPC> hi greg, it is your car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! do YOU like the color? that is all that is all that matters. my 74 tr6 is ka-ka brown. not originally what i wanted in terms of color, but i like it more every day. randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory nc From trglory at comcast.net Tue May 27 13:23:09 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 15:23:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? In-Reply-To: <003c01c8c008$a2738450$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <003c01c8c008$a2738450$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <021601c8c02f$19d34050$4d79c0f0$@net> Mark's web site is located at www.macysgarage.com I'm just a satisfied customer. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ibsen Dow Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 10:48 AM To: DLylis at aol.com Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? How do we get in touch with Mark? Email address or phone number would be handy, since my stator tube must be damaged at the end where the wires come out of the bottom of the stator tube. The turn signals work, but the control head turns with the steering wheel. Is it the stator tube or the nut & ferrule that keeps the control head from turning? Any insight would be helpful, since I haven't been able to figure out what is wrong. Ibsen 1959 TR3A 1971 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: DLylis at aol.com To: trglory at comcast.net ; thecrowes at hotmail.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 6:23 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? Good call. What a PITA to make one and have it fail and have to do it all over again. I think Mark's is $49, at least when I bought mine, and as I recall it is stainless. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as trglory at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1468 - Release Date: 5/26/2008 3:23 PM From bzw8 at cdc.gov Tue May 27 14:41:06 2008 From: bzw8 at cdc.gov (Wages, Jeffrey (CDC/CCID/NCPDCID)) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 16:41:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Replacement shocks for TR6 tube shock conversion In-Reply-To: <20080527161730.ELFXV.257340.root@fepweb13> References: <34DE55E501EFD14A8CCB3DDA5C6F57B32C7DA0@LTA3VS003.ees.hhs.gov> <20080527161730.ELFXV.257340.root@fepweb13> Message-ID: <34DE55E501EFD14A8CCB3DDA5C6F57B39808BC@LTA3VS003.ees.hhs.gov> Yes. It's KYB Model GR2 #343138. I got this from VB. They pulled a shock from the kit and told me the model stamped on the side. I will tell you that this model did not work on my conversion kit. It seems I have either an older kit or some custom job that, when compared to the current kits, has a taller upper shock mount. That meant that this shock ended up being 1.5"-2" to short in overall extension. The current kits offered have a noticeably shorter upper extension. If you are certain that you have one of the kits I mentioned then you should be good to go. I have two of these shocks now that I will have to return to Pep Boys if anyone has trouble finding them. Pep Boys can get them via special order. They were $28.99ea. KYB's online store has them as well for a tad cheaper but I decided to go local since I wasn't 100% confident in the model working. BTW - After going through all of this I've decided to go back to an uprated Armstrong lever shock. I found noticeable wear on one of my tire sidewalls and stress cracks on the cross member welds. I really like the 215 Yokies on the car and would prefer that over the tube shock. Hope that helps, Jeff -----Original Message----- From: robertko at charter.net [mailto:robertko at charter.net] Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 4:18 PM To: Wages, Jeffrey (CDC/CCID/NCPDCID) Subject: Re: [TR] Replacement shocks for TR6 tube shock conversion Jeff, I was wondering if you ever got an off-line reply to your question. I have also been looking for the model number but have not had any luck. If you did get an answer, could you let me know what the model number is? thanks Robert Kohout 72 & 74 TR6 ---- "Wages wrote: > Hi all, > > Does anyone know the specific KYB model number for the shocks used in > the TR6 tube shock conversion kit sold at Victoria British or TRF? > > The kit is HP221 at TRF sold here: > http://www.zeni.net/trf/specials06/23.php?s_wt=1600&s_ht=1200 > > Or 5-6025 sold at VB here: > http://www.victoriabritish.com/ICATALOG/T6/full.aspx?Page=84 > > Any other brand model number will help as well since I could then > cross-reference. > > Many thanks, > > Jeff > Atlanta > '71 & '73 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as robertko at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Tue May 27 15:14:12 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 17:14:12 EDT Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/27/2008 12:12:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, kinderlehrer at comcast.net writes: Another possibility is that the stub that the olive nut screws onto has broken away from the bottom plate of the steering box, allowing the whole assembly including the stator tube to rotate. If that were the case the box would not hold lubricant. The puddle on the floor would give it away. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue May 27 15:44:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 14:44:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0ddc01c8c042$df3cd6e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > If that were the case the box would not hold lubricant. The > puddle on the > floor would give it away. Not if you use Penrite "Steering box lube" as some vendors recommend. It's more of a thin grease than an oil. Randall From allegrorover at mac.com Tue May 27 16:25:29 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 16:25:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] Transmission whine Message-ID: Ok Folks, I am in Durango, Co, with the TR3, it has the Toyota 5 speed. I was driving towards Mesa Verde and the tranny started to whine pretty loud. It kinda stopped shifting so I pulled over checked for leaks and clutch fluid, all ok. I was able to get going again after 10 or so minutes, drove fine, still whinning. I took it into a local shop Dan's auto repair, nice guy and added quite a bit of gear oil to the tranny!!! (not good) Car runs fine still got the whine, I'm guessing the main shaft bearing may have fried......(not good) Any thoughts???? I guess I might be replacing the tranny in the 20' trailer that I'm pulling behind the RV. (that'll be fun) But before I do that I would appreciate any suggestions from you folks out there. By the way I drove the car back another 35 miles to the RV park, all went well besides the whine, worse in 1st and 5th. PS anyone got Herman's telephone number handy, maybe he'll have some ideas as well. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com From kinderlehrer at comcast.net Tue May 27 16:30:34 2008 From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net (kinderlehrer at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 22:30:34 +0000 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? Message-ID: <052720082230.25974.483C8B8A0006B1DC0000657622007481849D0A9D080A049D0A0B020705@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Randall" > > If that were the case the box would not hold lubricant. The > > puddle on the > > floor would give it away. > > Not if you use Penrite "Steering box lube" as some vendors recommend. It's > more of a thin grease than an oil. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ I'm not sure what was in my steering box, but that stud was loose enough to turn and it didn't leak, at least it didn't leak enough for me to notice amongst all the other leaks. Bob From allegrorover at mac.com Tue May 27 16:43:26 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 16:43:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] Transmission whine Message-ID: Thank you Randall, He's not available until after June 8, but I appreciate your help. I'll keep you all posted on the repairs, if needed...... (who am I kidding) Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue May 27 17:43:11 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 19:43:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Transmission whine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c8c053$6e3d0350$210110ac@bobspc> Tony, Herman and Helena are in NZ celebrating their 50th anniversary and won't be back until June 9th. If your tranny was low on fluid, did you check to see if the tranny flange has moved either in or out and damaged the rear seal? I know Herman has seen a few damaged rear seals because of the flange moving when the driveshaft slip moves in and/or out. I don't know if that problem also applies to TR3s. The problem with the Toyota W58 tranny is that bearing and seal replacement requires a complete teardown of the tranny and the bearing seal kit alone costs about $250. Add labor to it and you're probably better off finding another junk yard tranny. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:25 PM To: email list Subject: [TR] Transmission whine Ok Folks, I am in Durango, Co, with the TR3, it has the Toyota 5 speed. I was driving towards Mesa Verde and the tranny started to whine pretty loud. It kinda stopped shifting so I pulled over checked for leaks and clutch fluid, all ok. I was able to get going again after 10 or so minutes, drove fine, still whinning. I took it into a local shop Dan's auto repair, nice guy and added quite a bit of gear oil to the tranny!!! (not good) Car runs fine still got the whine, I'm guessing the main shaft bearing may have fried......(not good) Any thoughts???? I guess I might be replacing the tranny in the 20' trailer that I'm pulling behind the RV. (that'll be fun) But before I do that I would appreciate any suggestions from you folks out there. By the way I drove the car back another 35 miles to the RV park, all went well besides the whine, worse in 1st and 5th. PS anyone got Herman's telephone number handy, maybe he'll have some ideas as well. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1468 - Release Date: 5/26/2008 3:23 PM From emanteno at comcast.net Tue May 27 17:59:07 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 23:59:07 +0000 Subject: [TR] Transmission whine Message-ID: <052720082359.3036.483CA04B0007090B00000BDC2200734364970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Anthony Cascio > Ok Folks, > I am in Durango, Co, with the TR3, it has the Toyota 5 speed. > I was driving towards Mesa Verde and the tranny started to whine > pretty loud. > It kinda stopped shifting so I pulled over checked for leaks and > clutch fluid, all ok. > I was able to get going again after 10 or so minutes, drove fine, > still whinning. > I took it into a local shop Dan's auto repair, nice guy and added > quite a bit of gear oil to the tranny!!! (not good) > Car runs fine still got the whine, I'm guessing the main shaft bearing > may have fried......(not good) > Any thoughts???? As Bob Danielson has already answered, it is likely that the tranny flange moved too far forward and ate the rear seal. The locking collar prevents the driveshaft from collapsing, but it does NOT prevent the driveshaft from extending further than it should, which would cause the flange to be below the minimum distance from the seal. Bob told me about this, as I am in the process of doing this. After I read his report and email, I found that I could pull the end of the driveshaft out of the splines. After seeing this, it is off to the driveshaft shop for me to have one made without sliding splines. You only want 1 slip joint in the assembly, and you have 2. THANKS, Bob. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue May 27 18:02:37 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 17:02:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Need your opinions, please! In-Reply-To: <0b6701c8bfa8$8452a9c0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc><000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix> <0b6701c8bfa8$8452a9c0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <5D3850BF862F4E37AC795D6DF1AD0876@GeoPC> I like it. Not the 'green with a touch of blue' that was called Conifer or Triumph Racing Green (depending on the year) that perhaps you were seeking, but looks very fine to me. In my mind real British Racing Green is the color of Jim Clark's Lotus -- your car looks very close to how I remember that green. Geo ----- Original Message ----- > >> So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your >> valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool". Right now >> I'm >> on the fence. From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue May 27 18:14:37 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 17:14:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] Transmission whine In-Reply-To: <000001c8c053$6e3d0350$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c8c053$6e3d0350$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Really have to differ with this opinion, I just replaced the rear oil seal in the Toyota 5 speed in our TR3, it cost me less than $20.00 for a new seal from NAPA, the hardest part was removing the drive shaft ... there was no need to replace the bearing ... I do agree that if the drive shaft is not properly "installed" it will damage the oil seal. And if you allow all the oil to leak out ... you have a real problem ... >Tony, >Herman and Helena are in NZ celebrating their 50th anniversary and won't be >back until June 9th. If your tranny was low on fluid, did you check to see >if the tranny flange has moved either in or out and damaged the rear seal? I >know Herman has seen a few damaged rear seals because of the flange moving >when the driveshaft slip moves in and/or out. I don't know if that problem >also applies to TR3s. The problem with the Toyota W58 tranny is that bearing >and seal replacement requires a complete teardown of the tranny and the >bearing seal kit alone costs about $250. Add labor to it and you're probably >better off finding another junk yard tranny. > > >Bob Danielson >1975 TR6 CF38503U >Running w/ Throttle Body Injection >Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD >http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue May 27 18:33:48 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 20:33:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Transmission whine In-Reply-To: References: <000001c8c053$6e3d0350$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000801c8c05a$81797730$210110ac@bobspc> Bill, As you stated, replacing the rear seal is a relatively simple and easy task. Replacing all the bearings and seals require a tear down and a costly kit. It's the bearings that will kill you.....so to speak. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Bill & AnnaBelle [mailto:anabil007 at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 8:15 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'Anthony Cascio'; 'email list' Subject: Re: [TR] Transmission whine Really have to differ with this opinion, I just replaced the rear oil seal in the Toyota 5 speed in our TR3, it cost me less than $20.00 for a new seal from NAPA, the hardest part was removing the drive shaft ... there was no need to replace the bearing ... I do agree that if the drive shaft is not properly "installed" it will damage the oil seal. And if you allow all the oil to leak out ... you have a real problem ... >Tony, >Herman and Helena are in NZ celebrating their 50th anniversary and >won't be back until June 9th. If your tranny was low on fluid, did you >check to see if the tranny flange has moved either in or out and >damaged the rear seal? I know Herman has seen a few damaged rear seals >because of the flange moving when the driveshaft slip moves in and/or >out. I don't know if that problem also applies to TR3s. The problem >with the Toyota W58 tranny is that bearing and seal replacement >requires a complete teardown of the tranny and the bearing seal kit >alone costs about $250. Add labor to it and you're probably better off finding another junk yard tranny. > > >Bob Danielson >1975 TR6 CF38503U >Running w/ Throttle Body Injection >Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD >http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1468 - Release Date: 5/26/2008 3:23 PM From allegrorover at mac.com Tue May 27 19:00:09 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 19:00:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tranny whine Message-ID: <53F4AB0B-4B8A-4CB2-BE1A-E06A70CAECA9@mac.com> Well, I believe have hit the nail on the head. Now that the transmission is full again I can see the leak, rear seal!!!! I guess the main shaft bearing or bushing is what has been overheated. I Just drove it another 20 miles and everything worked fine, except for the whine of course. After leaving here and somewhere between here and Yipsilanti I will try and locate a rebuilt tranny, the last one I got was from a place in Texas, but of course I don't remember their name. I don't know about going to another driveshaft until after I talk to Herman, but it sounds like a good idea. Again I appreciate all the comments from you all and I will nurse it along until I get it replaced. Tony Cascio 58TR3A TS27093L Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue May 27 19:03:11 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 21:03:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] 5-speed Vs Triumph In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <719D50AE-73C1-4C5F-8DB1-A9C3150E5A92@comcast.net> I have a '63 non-OD TR4. I am happy enough with the improvements/repairs that I have made in the car over almost two years that I have begun to think about transmission options. Modern 5-speed Vs 50-year old Triumoph OD technology. Given the developments described below, authenticity and tradition are leading me to a $2k rebuilt TR OD resolution. One thought for Tony: did you tow the car behind an RV to get to the RV park in the first place? I have read that the driveline should be disconnected to save wear in the transmission, because oil is not distributed in the same efficient way it is when the engine drives the gearbox, rather than the wheels. Brian Jones > From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Subject: Re: [TR] Transmission whine > To: "'Anthony Cascio > Tony, > Herman and Helena are in NZ celebrating their 50th anniversary and > won't be > back until June 9th. If your tranny was low on fluid, did you check > to see > if the tranny flange has moved either in or out and damaged the rear > seal? I > know Herman has seen a few damaged rear seals because of the flange > moving > when the driveshaft slip moves in and/or out. I don't know if that > problem > also applies to TR3s. The problem with the Toyota W58 tranny is that > bearing > and seal replacement requires a complete teardown of the tranny and > the > bearing seal kit alone costs about $250. Add labor to it and you're > probably > better off finding another junk yard tranny. > Bob Danielson > On > Behalf Of Anthony Cascio > Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:25 PM > Subject: [TR] Transmission whine > > Ok Folks, > I am in Durango, Co, with the TR3, it has the Toyota 5 speed. I was > driving > towards Mesa Verde and the tranny started to whine pretty loud. > It kinda stopped shifting so I pulled over checked for leaks and > clutch > fluid, all ok. I was able to get going again after 10 or so minutes, > drove fine, still > whinning. I took it into a local shop Dan's auto repair, nice guy > and added quite a > bit of gear oil to the tranny!!! (not good) Car runs fine still got > the > whine, I'm guessing the main shaft bearing may have fried......(not > good) > Any thoughts???? > I guess I might be replacing the tranny in the 20' trailer that I'm > pulling > behind the RV. (that'll be fun) But before I do that I would > appreciate any > suggestions from you folks out there. By the way I drove the car > back another > 35 miles to the RV park, all went well besides the whine, worse in > 1st and 5th. > PS anyone got Herman's telephone number handy, maybe he'll have some > ideas > as well. > Tony Cascio From allegrorover at mac.com Tue May 27 19:08:15 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 19:08:15 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 Tow Message-ID: <1FC614F9-9E69-4165-A065-038BD36B9514@mac.com> Brian Just to let you know the TR3 is inside a 20' trailer with my tools and spare parts, but no spare tranny. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From opposumking at verizon.net Tue May 27 19:10:30 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 21:10:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Transmission whine References: Message-ID: <002401c8c05f$c1513550$2f01a8c0@CPQ12949640186> Fwiw, I've run that transmission in a number of Toyota trucks, as have friends. They're prone to whining. One in particular whined when we got it with about 100k miles on it, and was still whining 350k miles later. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Anthony Cascio" To: "email list" Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 6:25 PM Subject: [TR] Transmission whine > Ok Folks, > I am in Durango, Co, with the TR3, it has the Toyota 5 speed. > I was driving towards Mesa Verde and the tranny started to whine > pretty loud. > It kinda stopped shifting so I pulled over checked for leaks and > clutch fluid, all ok. > I was able to get going again after 10 or so minutes, drove fine, > still whinning. > I took it into a local shop Dan's auto repair, nice guy and added > quite a bit of gear oil to the tranny!!! (not good) > Car runs fine still got the whine, I'm guessing the main shaft bearing > may have fried......(not good) > Any thoughts???? > I guess I might be replacing the tranny in the 20' trailer that I'm > pulling behind the RV. (that'll be fun) > But before I do that I would appreciate any suggestions from you folks > out there. > By the way I drove the car back another 35 miles to the RV park, all > went well besides the whine, worse in 1st and 5th. > PS anyone got Herman's telephone number handy, maybe he'll have some > ideas as well. > Tony Cascio > 58 TR3A > TS27093L > Jeanne & Tony > allegrorover at mac.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as opposumking at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From banc8004 at comcast.net Tue May 27 19:37:51 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 21:37:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Brakes Message-ID: <72DBBB0B-57A8-410F-9B99-9A0F9D8642B3@comcast.net> I had previously considered - emailing/thinking aloud really - about adding a servo to my TR4. Randall had advised that this was unnecessary if the brakes are 'up to snuff' (my term). Well, due to family engagements one way or another I was able to find some garage time this holiday weekend. A full tune up, polarity reversal, and the addition of a tasteful third brake light (very happy with that, I must post images for you) and a rear brake overhaul filled my weekend. I had previously rebuilt my calipers with new seals, new stainless pistons, new pads, and stainless steel flexible hose. This weekend I went at the rears. For removing the brake drums, I had read of issues getting the screws out, let alone getting the drums off. I am happy to report that I had none of the issues I had been girding myself for. Result: Wheels off. Screws in good condition; all removed at my first attempt. My brakes were then adjusted to their withdrawn limit, and the drum on each side just lifted off. Both drums were smooth, non- scored, unpitted smooth, clean steel, no lip, and only with tons of brake dust in each drum, yet plenty of pad left on the shoes. I was pleased. Much scrubbing of the rusted outer, visible side of the brake drums ensued, with several coats of black semigloss brake enamel to follow, and then they went back together. After a full bleed (pretty much a fluid replacement exercise) of all four wheels starting with the farthest from the M/C, I followed with the VTR handbrake adjustment method: 1. 3 clicks on the handbrake to position both shoes 2. Adjust wheels to snug (rubbing sound OK as long as wheel turns 'freely'. Failing to half-apply the handbrake leaves you adjusting just the one shoe (this I had done previously). Bringing both to bear for the adjustment makes a world of difference. I also added the last stainless steel flexible hose from my original brake overhaul kit to replace the rear rubber flexible hose, and the combination of front and rear refurbishments, and bleeding, provides me with a really firm brake pedal, a short acting brake lever, and both feel REALLY positive - more than I had imagined was possible, actually. I can really stop pretty sharply now, rather than have to plan for a second, firmer press, as before. Right gain, Randall............ Cheers, all, Brian From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue May 27 20:20:44 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 22:20:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tranny whine In-Reply-To: <53F4AB0B-4B8A-4CB2-BE1A-E06A70CAECA9@mac.com> References: <53F4AB0B-4B8A-4CB2-BE1A-E06A70CAECA9@mac.com> Message-ID: <000c01c8c069$70974500$210110ac@bobspc> Tony, Here's what Herman says about the driveshaft. (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedFinishing.htm) about 1/3 of the way down the page...........but again....I've got a TR6 Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 9:00 PM To: email list Subject: [TR] Tranny whine Well, I believe have hit the nail on the head. Now that the transmission is full again I can see the leak, rear seal!!!! I guess the main shaft bearing or bushing is what has been overheated. I Just drove it another 20 miles and everything worked fine, except for the whine of course. After leaving here and somewhere between here and Yipsilanti I will try and locate a rebuilt tranny, the last one I got was from a place in Texas, but of course I don't remember their name. I don't know about going to another driveshaft until after I talk to Herman, but it sounds like a good idea. Again I appreciate all the comments from you all and I will nurse it along until I get it replaced. Tony Cascio 58TR3A TS27093L Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1468 - Release Date: 5/26/2008 3:23 PM From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue May 27 20:39:45 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 22:39:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] minor issues from the Memorial Day excursions Message-ID: <483C8DB1.7601.2F2DC80C@localhost> We took the GT6 up to a friend's surprise birthday party this weekend, a trip of about 1hr 35min to Wells, Maine. It presented us with a few heretofore unexperienced minor issues. At our destination I forgot that I'd been running with parking lights, until someone pointed out that that little red car had one parking light on. Hmmm, he must not have checked the back, because they were both on back there. Both front sidemarkers didn't work though the rears did. Curious, I checked the turn signals, and the front light didn't work on the same side as the bad parking light. And of course that meant the rear light came on but didn't blink. Well, no big deal, it must be a bad connection, surely, or a bad ground. Except that the turn signals have little in common with all the other lights. At home the next day, equipped with wiring diagrams and VOM, I found the problems. Both side markers are wired from one side's parking light wire, which explains why both side markers were out. A dirty bullet connector accounted for the lights. In a fit of coincidence (which never happens in TV cop shows) the turn signal was due to a burned out filament. Of course, the new bulb makes that side blink faster. I can live with it. Glad I didn't opt for the "brighter" bulb though. The trip held one more heretofore unexperienced shock. We stoped for gas on the way home and that little red beast took over $40! I guess it had to happen sooner or later. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From flashtr3 at cox.net Tue May 27 20:52:50 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 19:52:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? References: <0ddc01c8c042$df3cd6e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <003f01c8c06d$eb58e920$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> My steering box has the Penrite grease, an it slowly weeps through the olive gland & nut. So I think my problem is that the control head is not engage properly with the cut out in the stator tube. I will be checking this out & get back to the list. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Randall Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 2:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? > If that were the case the box would not hold lubricant. The > puddle on the > floor would give it away. Not if you use Penrite "Steering box lube" as some vendors recommend. It's more of a thin grease than an oil. Randall _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Tue May 27 22:31:50 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 04:31:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] [British-cars] TR4 mechanical tachometer stopped. Message-ID: <052820080431.16194.483CE036000733BE00003F4222165514069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: terry cowan > Phil, a simple way to check the rev-counter is simply disconnect the > cable at the gauge, What you say makes perfect sense. I was thinking that the other end is easier to reach. :-) -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From DLylis at aol.com Wed May 28 05:37:15 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 07:37:15 EDT Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/27/2008 5:31:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, kinderlehrer at comcast.net writes: Not if you use Penrite "Steering box lube" as some vendors recommend. It's > more of a thin grease than an oil. Where do you get this? I have been using 140 gear oil. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed May 28 07:12:27 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 06:12:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Toyota 5-speed seal failure? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <372084.21926.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I know that new engineered ideas evolve, things are discovered, improvements are made, etc., but this is one reason (of a few) that I now regret installing a Toyota 5-speed in my TR6 last year.  Yes, regret.  If I had to do it all over again, I'd go with the OD instead.    If you are considering the conversion you might want to re-think it.    Joe Merone CF18928       As Bob Danielson has already answered, it is likely that the tranny flange moved too far forward and ate the rear seal. The locking collar prevents the driveshaft from collapsing, but it does NOT prevent the driveshaft from extending further than it should, which would cause the flange to be below the minimum distance from the seal. Bob told me about this, as I am in the process of doing this. After I read his report and email, I found that I could pull the end of the driveshaft out of the splines. After seeing this, it is off to the driveshaft shop for me to have one made without sliding splines. You only want 1 slip joint in the assembly, and you have 2. THANKS, Bob. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed May 28 07:18:36 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 13:18:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] Marty Mishap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Back in the 70s I saw a TR3A in an autocross break the wheel studs on the right rear wheel and roll over. Fortunately the car had a roll bar and the driver walked away. Best regards, Tom > From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com > Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 17:59:59 -0400 > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] Marty Mishap > > Marty, > So sorry that an autocross has taken a car, especially one our ours. I > truly hope that you and anyone nearby are OK. I'm guessing, what with your > experience, that the course was not set up with safety adequately in mind. Things > happen, and many of them can be anticipated by a heads-up course layout. > Guess you'll have to share all the details with us to put this into > perspective. What lessons can we learn? > Regrets, > George Haynes > > > ************** > Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch > "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. > > (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Make every e-mail and IM count. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ MakeCount From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed May 28 07:22:22 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 09:22:22 EDT Subject: [TR] minor issues from the Memorial Day excursions Message-ID: In a message dated 5/27/2008 9:40:16 PM Central Daylight Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > The trip held one more heretofore unexperienced shock. We stoped for > gas on the way home and that little red beast took over $40! I guess > it had to happen sooner or later. > Wa wa wa. I just got back from two weeks in France where it cost me $100 each time I refilled the VW Golf. Dave (Glad to be back in the land of cheap gasoline) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed May 28 07:30:25 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 13:30:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Need your opinions, please! In-Reply-To: <000501c8bf85$d1bb0770$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000501c8bf85$d1bb0770$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: > Is the rear disk brake conversion Don Watson's kit? > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/don_watson.htm I have never seen a brake caliper hung at the bottom of the axel like this before. I seem to remember that there is a reason for the relative positions of the front and rear calipers. The rear caliper is usually hung at 2:00 O'clock as you face the wheel. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Give to a good cause with every e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?souce=EML_WL_ GoodCause From team.net at daveola.com Wed May 28 07:29:51 2008 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 06:29:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 259 In-Reply-To: <53F4AB0B-4B8A-4CB2-BE1A-E06A70CAECA9@mac.com> References: <53F4AB0B-4B8A-4CB2-BE1A-E06A70CAECA9@mac.com> Message-ID: > I don't know about going to another driveshaft until after I talk to > Herman, but it sounds like a good idea. Some cars need this, some don't. Herman's kit has that locking collar for the driveshaft, but if the position you lock it in is *not* fully extended, then that means as the car is bouncing around, the driveshaft can extend fully and ram the output flange into the rear seal. I wouldn't be surprised if that's what happened to your car. If that's the case, then you do want to pull your driveshaft and either have it shortened or just replaced with a solid driveshaft. When I extended the driveshaft to the correct length to have enough play between the output flange and the rear seal, I was fortunate on my car that this was the full extension of the driveshaft. So once I put the locking collar on, the driveshaft had no slip in it (presuming the locking collar holds :). If I were you, I'd see if the output flange can be extended towards the transmission closer than the tolerances Herman suggests. If it can't but there's visible damage to the rear seal, please let us know - because that would imply that the tolerances Herman gives aren't big enough, which would be very good to know. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From zoboherald at aol.com Wed May 28 08:01:17 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 10:01:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Brakes In-Reply-To: <72DBBB0B-57A8-410F-9B99-9A0F9D8642B3@comcast.net> References: <72DBBB0B-57A8-410F-9B99-9A0F9D8642B3@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CA8EE26ED63B06-19E8-707@MBLK-M29.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Brian Jones ...After a full bleed (pretty much a fluid replacement exercise) of all four wheels starting with the farthest from the M/C, I followed with the VTR handbrake adjustment method: 1. 3 clicks on the handbrake to position both shoes 2. Adjust wheels to snug (rubbing sound OK as long as wheel turns 'freely'. Failing to half-apply the handbrake leaves you adjusting just the one shoe (this I had done previously). Bringing both to bear for the adjustment makes a world of difference. ==AM== Someone help me out here. I've never understood that statement "...leaves you adjusting just the one shoe"! The adjusters do operate on both shoes. And the wheel cylinder should be free to slide back and forth. Therefore, how is one "adjusting just the one shoe" unless the handbrake is partially engaged? Whenever I adjust rear brakes, I leave the handbrake off, but I will either pull and release it, or apply and release the brake pedal, to recenter the shoes; then I'll recheck the adjustment. It's always worked very, very well for me. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 28 08:34:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 07:34:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR 4 Brakes In-Reply-To: <8CA8EE26ED63B06-19E8-707@MBLK-M29.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080528143406.FNVY23887.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > The adjusters do operate on both shoes. And the wheel > cylinder should be free to slide back and forth. Therefore, > how is one "adjusting just the one shoe" unless the handbrake > is partially engaged? Beats me, Andy, I'm on your side. The adjusters do work on both sides (except the early Lockheed front drums which had separate adjusters for each shoe) and I've never set the handbrake while adjusting the shoes. But if Brian found something that works for him then more power to him. Just don't let the PETA folk find out about the animal sacrifice ! <> Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 28 10:48:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 09:48:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <100701c8c0e2$b6e482b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > > Not if you use Penrite "Steering box lube" > > Where do you get this? I don't, as I feel using "almost grease" will make the car steer abnormally hard. Had a non-LBC once where the DPO had filled the worm-type steering with grease, and after a few months of driving it, my biceps were too big for my shirt sleeves ! However, one place it's available in the US is : http://www.restorationstuff.com They claim to be exclusive distributor for Penrite in the US. Randall From emanteno at comcast.net Wed May 28 12:27:33 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 18:27:33 +0000 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 259 Message-ID: <052820081827.17858.483DA41500093868000045C22207024553970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: David Ljung Madison > When I extended the driveshaft to the correct length to have enough > play between the output flange and the rear seal, I was fortunate on > my car that this was the full extension of the driveshaft. So > once I put the locking collar on, the driveshaft had no slip in it > (presuming the locking collar holds :). Here is what I think seems to be happening. The locking collar is supposed to hold the driveshaft in the fully open position. You grab the 2 ends of the driveshaft, pull them with reasonable force to what appears to be full extension, and then you put on the locking collar. However, in my case, after discussing this with Bob Danielson, I found that I was able to pull the driveshaft out further than what I thought was fully extended. In fact with the locking collar and dust cap in place, I was able to pull the 2 pieces of the driveshaft apart. If the forces of driving extend the driveshaft past "fully extended" in the car, the rear seal clearance is going to fall below the minimum and someone is going to lose a rear seal and ultimately a Toyota 5 speed. YMMV. THANKS, Bob. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed May 28 12:59:24 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 14:59:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Andy, Randall - I just followed this, from the VTR Maintenance Handbook: Adjustment of the Rear Brake Drums by Brian Watts A quick and accurate way of adjusting the rear brakes can be done quite simply. The traditional method is to have the car on jack stands and spin the wheel as you are tightening the brake adjuster. This, however, does not take into consideration the front shoe (which adjusting has no effect), nor the proper vertical placement of the shoes relative to the drum. An alternate way to adjust the rear brakes is to pull the emergency brake handle up until you hear three or four clicks. On each rear wheel, tighten each adjuster until snug. Pulling the hand lever up three clicks sets the handle where you want it and it also positions the front shoe so it is even with the rear one you are adjusting. This is so simple, yet it took JK Jackson to explain it so it made sense! http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-adjustment.shtml ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I have a better adjusted handbrake, and markedly better brakes generally, than before, and this was one step in that process. I had always adjusted drum brakes 'your' way before. Perhaps there is some difference in the pad / drum relative positions when only the adjuster is involved in setting the rear brakes that is eliminated when the pads are 'snugged' to the drum by the handbrake and the adjuster brought in to 'meet the pads'. You are working both ends of both pads, rather than just one. When I get to it again, I'll see if I can understand why it seems more positive. If I keep count of the adjuster clicks, adjusting with and without the handbrake involved, maybe I'll see a difference in adjustment. I didn't know we were taking sides...... Brian From mmarr at notwires.com Wed May 28 14:00:59 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 15:00:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brakes References: Message-ID: <001701c8c0fd$8d488c60$6401a8c0@mikeslaptop> > The traditional method is to have the car on jack stands and spin the > wheel as you are tightening the brake adjuster. This, however, does not > take into consideration the front shoe (which adjusting has no effect), But the brake cylinder is designed to slide in the slot in which it is located in the backplate, so that when the brakes are applied both shoes are moved, one by the action of the piston and the other by the reaction on the cylinder. Thus, the adjuster is adjusting both shoes, not just the "front" shoe. If the brake cylinder did not slide, you would not have the full braking effort, because the leading shoe would be doing all the work and the trailing shoe would do nothing. In actual fact, because of the "self-servo" effect, the leading shoe does more of the braking than the trailing shoe, but if the brake cylinder did not slide the trailing shoe would do absolutely nothing at all - it would never move. Furthermore, by partially applying the handbrake before adjusting you are actually increasing the distance that the piston must move when the footbrake is applied with the handbrake off, thereby negating the adjustment that you just performed. I am afraid to say that the VTR article is not as right as it could be, to quote Tim "The Toolman" Taylor. Mike From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed May 28 14:08:59 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 16:08:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] Emissions Test Message-ID: <000901c8c0fe$aca74a50$210110ac@bobspc> One of the things I've been curious about since converting to TBI was how it impacted my emissions. Back when I first got the car in 1997 I had to take it through Connecticut emissions just once and it passed with all the smog equipment still on the car. That test made it road worthy for enough years to have the age exemptions kick in and it no longer needed to get tested. Since then most of the smog equipment has failed and been removed from the car. So the other day I stopped at an emissions test station and asked if they would test the car. A simple enough task......or so you would think. You can read about the process here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EmissionsTest.htm along with the results. Bottom line they ended up testing it against 1984 standards and I passed 2 of the 3, only failing the CO test. I found the '75 standards but they're all in grams/mile while the new tests are in parts/million. So we're really comparing apples to oranges. Luckily I'm exempt but if I wasn't, we probably could have a new chip programmed and flashed to get the car through. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From lherault at bu.edu Wed May 28 14:09:16 2008 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 16:09:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] Brake conversion Message-ID: <003e01c8c0fe$b5010bf0$90d4299b@ad.bu.edu> Maybe the positioning of the calipers in the 2:00 O'clock position is a safety issue. In looking at the conversion to calipers in the rear, I wonder if one could rip the brake calipers off if the tire/rim were damaged. Ron L From Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com Wed May 28 14:31:55 2008 From: Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com (Brian.L.Jones at gsk.com) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 16:31:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brakes In-Reply-To: <001701c8c0fd$8d488c60$6401a8c0@mikeslaptop> Message-ID: Mike, It definitely has not, on my car, caused more footpedal travel. I have less travel, to a firmer 'stop', but as I acknowledged, I also did a bleed etc. If I partially apply the handbrake, to the point of 'snugging' the wheel before setting the adjuster, I don't see how, when the handbrake is off, I have then affected piston travel. The suggestion I posed is that with the handbrake partially applied before turning the adjuster in, it might get you to a different adjustment point. If I were home now, and not at work, I'd re-do it both ways and see if the adjuster setting ended up being the same both ways. I'm just happy that I now have improved brakes, which is the most important thing. Regards, Brian Furthermore, by partially applying the handbrake before adjusting you are actually increasing the distance that the piston must move when the footbrake is applied with the handbrake off, thereby negating the adjustment that you just performed. I am afraid to say that the VTR article is not as right as it could be, to quote Tim "The Toolman" Taylor. Mike From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed May 28 15:03:40 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 17:03:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] Emissions Test In-Reply-To: <000901c8c0fe$aca74a50$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <483D906C.27649.33207274@localhost> On 28 May 2008 at 16:08, Bob Danielson wrote: > So the other day I stopped at an emissions test station and... Interesting story. Two technical questions. I see that the limit for CO was 1.3 and your car showed 1.3. Is the 1.3 something you had to be under, as opposed to just not over? Also, for what purpose did they need 12V??? I could see the machine wanting a firing time from #1 plug perhaps, but for what purpose would it need 12V that the machine couldn't supply itself? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mmarr at notwires.com Wed May 28 15:04:56 2008 From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 16:04:56 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brakes References: Message-ID: <005601c8c106$7c12cab0$6401a8c0@mikeslaptop> If I partially apply the handbrake, to the point of 'snugging' the wheel before setting the adjuster, I don't see how, when the handbrake is off, I have then affected piston travel. Brian: The rear brakes work by moving the top ends of the shoes away from each other, against the drum. The lower ends of the shoes are held against a fulcrum, by the springs, which is adjustable by means of the brake adjuster. Thus, when the adjuster is turned inwards, the lower fulcrum points move apart so that the lower ends of the shoes are closer to the drums, thereby taking up wear. The handbrake lever acts on the top of the shoes and is interposed between the brake piston and the leading shoe. If you partially apply the handbrake before adjusting the brakes, you have taken up some of the brake shoe travel which would normally be taken up by the adjustment. Thus, when the hand brake is released, the shoes will relax to a position further away from the drum than they were when you adjusted them. Having said all that, the fact that the rear brakes are adjusted by moving only the fulcrum point and not by moving both ends of the shoe closer to the drum means that the difference in the two methods of adjusting may not be easily discernible, but there definitely is a difference. I have owned many LBCs over the years and the brake adjusting instructions for every one of them starts with the admonishment to release the handbrake. Mike From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed May 28 15:20:32 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 14:20:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Toyota 5-speed seal failure? In-Reply-To: <372084.21926.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <372084.21926.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If you will read the installation instructions from Herman you will find ... 1. Extend the driveshaft to its maximum extension. 2. Install the locking collar over the extension, right next to the driveshaft, so that it CANNOT RETRACT !! 8. If the driveshaft dimension is longer than the distance from the distance from the transmission flange to the differential flange. It MUST BE SHORTENED by that amount. So ... when in doubt RTFIs ... <:-| And Joe, is right the very best way is to have a custom drive shaft. I got one from Driveline Stockton, complete with Spicer U-Joints , for $150.00 >I know that new engineered ideas evolve, things are discovered, >improvements are made, etc., but this is one reason (of a few) >that I now regret installing a Toyota 5-speed in my TR6 last >year.  Yes, regret.  If I had to do it all over >again, I'd go with the OD instead.  >  >If you are considering the conversion you might want to re-think it.  >  >Joe Merone >CF18928 >  >  >  >As Bob Danielson has already answered, it is likely that the tranny >flange moved too far forward and ate the rear seal. The locking >collar prevents the driveshaft from collapsing, but it does NOT >prevent the driveshaft from extending further than it should, which >would cause the flange to be below the minimum distance from the >seal. Bob told me about this, as I am in the process of doing this. >After I read his report and email, I found that I could pull the end >of the driveshaft out of the splines. After seeing this, it is off >to the driveshaft shop for me to have one made without sliding >splines. You only want 1 slip joint in the assembly, and you have 2. >THANKS, Bob. >Irv Korey >74 TR6 CF22767U >Highland Park, IL -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 28 15:22:31 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 14:22:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 259 In-Reply-To: <052820081827.17858.483DA41500093868000045C22207024553970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080528212231.DEFS21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > In fact with the locking collar and dust > cap in place, I was able to pull the 2 pieces of the > driveshaft apart. If the forces of driving extend the > driveshaft past "fully extended" in the car, Aha, thanks for the clear explanation, Irv. I hadn't been paying a lot of attention, but the complaint didn't make sense to me. There's nothing but a cork (?) seal inside the original driveshaft, to keep the yoke from slipping off the shaft. It was never intended as a stop, only as a dust seal. Sounds like one alternative to building a solid shaft would be to replace that seal with a steel spacer. Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed May 28 15:39:02 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 17:39:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Emissions Test In-Reply-To: <483D906C.27649.33207274@localhost> References: <000901c8c0fe$aca74a50$210110ac@bobspc> <483D906C.27649.33207274@localhost> Message-ID: <000601c8c10b$413b8580$210110ac@bobspc> The CO number on the site was a typo that I just corrected. The limit was 0.67 and I was at 1.30. No idea why they needed the plug but the cord came from the direction of the testing machine. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 5:04 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Emissions Test On 28 May 2008 at 16:08, Bob Danielson wrote: > So the other day I stopped at an emissions test station and... Interesting story. Two technical questions. I see that the limit for CO was 1.3 and your car showed 1.3. Is the 1.3 something you had to be under, as opposed to just not over? Also, for what purpose did they need 12V??? I could see the machine wanting a firing time from #1 plug perhaps, but for what purpose would it need 12V that the machine couldn't supply itself? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1469 - Release Date: 5/27/2008 1:25 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 28 16:02:23 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 15:02:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] Emissions Test In-Reply-To: <000901c8c0fe$aca74a50$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080528220223.JVZV8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > Bottom line they ended up testing it against 1984 standards > and I passed 2 of the 3, only failing the CO test. I found > the '75 standards but they're all in grams/mile while the new > tests are in parts/million. I believe you are mistaken about that, Bob; the CO is (and was) measured in percent. FWIW, the state of CA applied the following standards to my 59 TR3A (back when all cars had to be tested on transfer of ownership) : Cruise HC 400 ppm Cruise CO 6.5% (note that "cruise" in this case was defined as a certain rpm with no load) Idle HC 1200 ppm Idle CO 8.0% BTW it passed easily, AFTER I richened the carbs back up. First time I took it in, the machine rejected it as being too clean ! Also worth noting, perhaps, that the emissions control devices are designed to meet a much more rigorous standard than the simple tests done during a "smog check". Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 28 16:10:17 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 15:10:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080528221017.DZTJ21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I didn't know we were taking sides...... Just to be clear, Brian, my point was that I agree with Andy about the adjusters working on both shoes. BUT, if your method works for you, by all means use it. Personally, I think I'll continue to follow the factory advice, rather than what's posted on the VTR site. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed May 28 16:25:47 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 15:25:47 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080528222547.EGRE21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > The traditional method is to have the car on jack stands and > spin the wheel as you are tightening the brake adjuster. BTB, this is also wrong. Both TR3 and TR4 shop manuals say to tighten the adjuster until it's tight, then back off 1-3 clicks. You only spin the wheel to check for resistance after backing off (which sets the clearance between drums and shoes). > This, however, does not take into consideration the front shoe (which adjusting has no effect), This statement makes me wonder if Mr. Watts has indeed ever looked inside his brake drums. It's simply not true. If you'll look at a TR4 adjuster assembly, it has two wedges, one for each shoe. (Item 23 in this diagram : http://tinyurl.com/3v5f5t ) It moves both shoes equally. (Any discrepancy in the distance required is taken up by the hydraulic cylinder moving in it's slot.) Another item of concern is that the VTR article makes no mention of which cars it applies to. Stags, for example, have substantially different (and self-adjusting) rear brakes. Perhaps the article applies to wedges, or Glorias or something ? Randall From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed May 28 16:57:56 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 18:57:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Emissions Test In-Reply-To: <20080528220223.JVZV8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <000901c8c0fe$aca74a50$210110ac@bobspc> <20080528220223.JVZV8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <001501c8c116$469bdc40$210110ac@bobspc> Right you are Randall....... The CO number is a %. Time to re-do my web page table. In CT they don't do an idle test as everything was done at speed that I could see. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 6:02 PM To: 'Bob Danielson'; 'email list' Subject: Re: [TR] Emissions Test > Bottom line they ended up testing it against 1984 standards and I > passed 2 of the 3, only failing the CO test. I found the '75 standards > but they're all in grams/mile while the new tests are in > parts/million. I believe you are mistaken about that, Bob; the CO is (and was) measured in percent. FWIW, the state of CA applied the following standards to my 59 TR3A (back when all cars had to be tested on transfer of ownership) : Cruise HC 400 ppm Cruise CO 6.5% (note that "cruise" in this case was defined as a certain rpm with no load) Idle HC 1200 ppm Idle CO 8.0% BTW it passed easily, AFTER I richened the carbs back up. First time I took it in, the machine rejected it as being too clean ! Also worth noting, perhaps, that the emissions control devices are designed to meet a much more rigorous standard than the simple tests done during a "smog check". Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1469 - Release Date: 5/27/2008 1:25 PM From terryrs at comcast.net Wed May 28 17:22:13 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:22:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] Was Length of Stator--now lubrication recommendations Message-ID: <052820082322.16266.483DE9250002E15600003F8A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> In terms of lubrication for the various components of my TR3A, I have been following the advice from the List as follows. Maybe it's a good time to send it out for any new people I've been daily driving my ground up TR3A restoration for two years following this and can't be happier, except with the wire wheel decision. OD tranny oil: Valvoline 20-50 racing oil. "Ken Gilanders at British Frame and Engine ran it in his own TR2, the "Red Rocket" for 5 years, and then tore the tranny down just to see the results. He said it looked brand new inside." Engine oil: Break-in periods are a bit debatable, but many pefer non-synthetic for 500 miles, and this can be either non-detergent or detergent. I ran non-detergent 30 weight. After break in, Valvoline full synthetic is good. Redline is good too, just more difficult to get (in New Hampshire). Differential: Valvoline full synthetic gear oil, "which is rated something like 75w90. Steering Box: Valvoline full synthetic gear oil, as above. Dashpots: Straight 20 weight. "Experiment if you want: too thin makes the engine seem sluggish on acceleration, while too thick makes it resond so quick that i's hart to control smoothly. ...Your engine may act differently" Trunnions: for the TR3A "only grease. Later cars have completely different trunnions designed to hold oil. Cables: "Dry Film" MoS2 lubricant. Wire Wheel Splines: Permatex copper anti-seize lubricant (#133A or #09128). On the wire wheels, I'm not particularly happy. I did have a wire wheel that I had to beat off with a BFH this spring. I'm wondering if grease would be better? Your experience may vary. Terry Smith, TR3A New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > > Not if you use Penrite "Steering box lube" > > > > Where do you get this? > > I don't, as I feel using "almost grease" will make the car steer abnormally > hard. Had a non-LBC once where the DPO had filled the worm-type steering > with grease, and after a few months of driving it, my biceps were too big > for my shirt sleeves ! > > However, one place it's available in the US is : > http://www.restorationstuff.com > > They claim to be exclusive distributor for Penrite in the US. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mrv8q at aim.com Wed May 28 20:31:56 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 22:31:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Length of Stator Tube? In-Reply-To: <100701c8c0e2$b6e482b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <100701c8c0e2$b6e482b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <8CA8F4B4C04E517-EB8-E33@webmail-nc13.sysops.aol.com> > Where do you get this Penrite "Steering box lube" Randall said: However, one place it's available in the US is : http://www.restorationstuff.com They claim to be exclusive distributor for Penrite in the US. I know our friends at Moss also carry this.... I've used it in my TR3A Best, Kevin Browne '59 TR3A and '74 TR6 From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Wed May 28 23:32:11 2008 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 22:32:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] Anything Triumph Related Going on in SE Wisconsin Next 10 days? Message-ID: I'll be in SE Wisconsin for the next 10 days, anything Triumph related going on for me to attend? Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From jercurry at comcast.net Wed May 28 23:53:35 2008 From: jercurry at comcast.net (Jeremiah Curry) Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:53:35 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 inline fuel filter Message-ID: Howdy all, I am getting ready to finalize all of my fuel lines and ran across this question. I have heard that it is a good idea to install a modern fuel filter, but where should it be installed. All of hte fuel lines are metal from the tank to the carbs and all of the fuel filters I have ever seen connect via a rubber hose. thanks in advance. Jeremiah From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 29 07:14:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 06:14:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 inline fuel filter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080529131436.KNPU21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I have heard that it is a good idea to > install a modern fuel filter, My opinion is that they cause more trouble than they prevent. For example, a tablespoon of water will totally block a modern filter, leaving you calling for a flatbed; while the original sediment bowl will hold several times that amount with no problem at all. Just empty it at your next oil change. > All of hte fuel lines are metal from the tank to > the carbs Should be some soft line at the inlet to the fuel pump and, depending on vintage, again at the connection to the carbs. But most likely you'll have to cut out a section of hard line to add a filter. Randall From jmerone at rocketmail.com Thu May 29 08:02:34 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 07:02:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Toyota 5-speed seal failure? Message-ID: <143433.53537.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey Bill: Look at my message again. No where in it do I say that I am actuallly having a problem with my seal. And in fact I'm not. I was referencing the discovery of a new potential problem, one of a few changes (solid driveshafts anyone?) that have contributed to my personal frustration and experience with the system. That's all. So... when in doubt RTFe-mail! Joe Merone CF18928 5-speed --- On Wed, 5/28/08, Bill & AnnaBelle wrote: If you will read the installation instructions from Herman you will find ... 1. Extend the driveshaft to its maximum extension. 2. Install the locking collar over the extension, right next to the driveshaft, so that it CANNOT RETRACT !! 8. If the driveshaft dimension is longer than the distance from the distance from the transmission flange to the differential flange. It MUST BE SHORTENED by that amount. So ... when in doubt RTFIs ... <:-| >I know that new engineered ideas evolve, things are discovered, >improvements are made, etc. but this is one reason (of a few) >that I now regret installing the Toyota 5-speed in my TR6 last >year. Yes, regret. If I had to do it all over >again, I'd go with the OD instead >If you are considering the conversion you might want to re-think it >Joe Merone >CF18928 -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu May 29 08:08:45 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 10:08:45 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Toyota 5-speed seal failure? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/29/2008 7:03:35 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jmerone at rocketmail.com writes: Hey Bill: Look at my message again. No where in it do I say that I am actuallly having a problem with my seal. And in fact I'm not. I was referencing the discovery of a new potential problem, one of a few changes (solid driveshafts anyone?) that have contributed to my personal frustration and experience with the system. That's all. So... when in doubt RTFe-mail! Joe Merone CF18928 5-speed Joe, I am sure that Herman can give you advice about your problems when he returns from NZ. There are hundreds of conversions running around right now with very very few problems that he's aware of. I know he is very concerned about anyone who does have problems with his kits. In fact Herman is constantly making cross country trips with his own car with a 5 speed without problems. I would not get discouraged if I were you. There is something wrong which needs to be corrected. Best, Mike Moore TS41723L **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu May 29 08:28:36 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 14:28:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 inline fuel filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If you go to your LFAPS ask for their catalogue of fuel filters. There are many in there that have threaded fittings for connectors. There are standard thread and metric thread types. You can also look at Summitracing.com. One caveat about summit is that many of their photos do not represent the actual product. It may take a while but you can probably find a filter that will connect inline with your fuel lines. Best regards, Tom > From: jercurry at comcast.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:53:35 -0600 > Subject: [TR] TR3 inline fuel filter > > Howdy all, > > I am getting ready to finalize all of my fuel lines and ran across this > question. I have heard that it is a good idea to install a modern fuel > filter, but where should it be installed. All of hte fuel lines are metal > from the tank to the carbs and all of the fuel filters I have ever seen > connect via a rubber hose. > > thanks in advance. > > Jeremiah > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ E-mail for the greater good. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ GreaterGood From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu May 29 08:53:22 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 09:53:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] r--now lubrication recommendations References: <052820082322.16266.483DE9250002E15600003F8A22165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001801c8c19b$bfebea60$8115a8c0@garage.local> > Dashpots: Straight 20 weight. "Experiment if you want: too thin makes > the engine seem sluggish on acceleration, while too thick makes it resond > so quick that i's hart to control smoothly. ...Your engine may act > differently" i prefer magic mystery oil > > Wire Wheel Splines: Permatex copper anti-seize lubricant (#133A or > #09128). > i use axle grease. never a problem From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Thu May 29 10:00:08 2008 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 09:00:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] tr3 lug nuts Message-ID: <205548.23296.qm@web53412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Some time ago, TS75434L had wire wheels installed. Fortunately, spacers were used so that steel wheels could be put back on. I prefer the look and safety of steel wheels and have acquired a full set with nice hub caps. Only thing I need now is 16 lug nuts. Moss motors wants $2.30/ea and TRF wants $3/ea. Instead of spending $35-40 for a set, I was hoping to see if anyone here has some old lug nuts laying around. I'm not expecting free, but hoping for significantly less than the above prices. Please email me. Thanks! From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu May 29 10:09:47 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 12:09:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] tr3 lug nuts In-Reply-To: <205548.23296.qm@web53412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <205548.23296.qm@web53412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > Some time ago, TS75434L had wire wheels installed.> Fortunately, spacers were used so that steel wheels> could be put back on. I prefer the look and safety of> steel wheels and have acquired a full set with nice> hub caps. Only thing I need now is 16 lug nuts.> > Moss motors wants $2.30/ea and TRF wants $3/ea.> Instead of spending $35-40 for a set, I was hoping to> see if anyone here has some old lug nuts laying> around. I'm not expecting free, but hoping for> significantly less than the above prices. Please email> me. Thanks! I think I have some, Richard. Let me look. John H. From leejohn7 at gmail.com Thu May 29 10:33:17 2008 From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 09:33:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 inline fuel filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second what Randall says. My hestitation and coughing ( engine, not owner) was caused by a fuel filter that filled way too quickly. I now drive happily and breath easily sans a filter. John Howard 64 & 65 TR4 On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 7:28 AM, tom white wrote: > If you go to your LFAPS ask for their catalogue of fuel filters. There are > many in there that have threaded fittings for connectors. There are > standard > thread and metric thread types. You can also look at Summitracing.com. > One > caveat about summit is that many of their photos do not represent the > actual > product. > > It may take a while but you can probably find a filter that will connect > inline with your fuel lines. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > From: jercurry at comcast.net > > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > > Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 23:53:35 -0600 > > Subject: [TR] TR3 inline fuel filter > > > > Howdy all, > > > > I am getting ready to finalize all of my fuel lines and ran across this > > question. I have heard that it is a good idea to install a modern fuel > > filter, but where should it be installed. All of hte fuel lines are > metal > > from the tank to the carbs and all of the fuel filters I have ever seen > > connect via a rubber hose. > > > > thanks in advance. > > > > Jeremiah > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > > http://www.vtr.org > > > > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > _________________________________________________________________ > E-mail for the greater good. Join the i m Initiative from Microsoft. > http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_GreaterGood > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Thu May 29 10:55:32 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 09:55:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Stag lug nuts Message-ID: <464930.40971.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Y'all, Does anyone have any spares or can tell me where I can get replacement lug nuts for a Stag with alloy wheels? I'm in need of 4 to get my wife's car back up and running - found out the DPO had stripped several of them out while I was mounting new tires. Driving season is apon us, and she want's to get out and enjoy it! Thanks in advance, Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" Little Rock, AR Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr From mathews at uga.edu Thu May 29 10:57:32 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 12:57:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 inline fuel filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20080529165659.41EFE187649@autox.team.net> I agree with all that has been said about filters and water etc. I added mine in line filter after the sediment bowl, between the fuel pump and the cards. Its a transparent one and besides filtering the fuel, gives me visual of gas flowing from the tank to the cards in case I get curious! ;-) Doug At 12:33 PM 5/29/2008, Lee&John Howard wrote: >Second what Randall says. My hestitation and coughing ( engine, not owner) >was caused by a fuel filter that filled way too quickly. I now drive happily >and breath easily sans a filter. From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu May 29 11:08:49 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (jimmuller at rcn.com) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 13:08:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [Spits] PDWA valve Message-ID: <20080529130849.BDQ73906@ms10.lnh.mail.rcn.net> > I did some brake work on my 76 Spit this past winter... > my brake warning light came on and I am having trouble > centering the shuttle... Does anyone have advice with > this problem? When I got my GT6 the PDWA wasn't centered, and when I rebuilt the Spitfie's brakes it got uncentered. For the GT6 I ended up taking the PDWDWA apart to free the piston, then installed it with the piston centered and was careful not to overpush the pedal when bleeding the brakes. At least I think I remember that's what I did; in any case, the PWDWAMDWA was centered when I was done. On the Spitfire I centered the PDMDWAMPDWADA the way you're supposed to: After everything is bled (blud?), open a valve slightly on one end of the car, then slowly depress the pedal until the light goes off. If it doesn't, then the piston's position must be that it is slud over to the other side, so close the first valve and open one from the other end of the car. When you are pushing the pedal be careful not to push it so fast that it just jumps top the other side immediately. And since you have to do this with the system powered, you might want to disconnect the wire to the coil, or test th! e switch by attaching an external light or something. Jim Muller GT6+, Spitfire From allegrorover at mac.com Thu May 29 11:09:45 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 11:09:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] rebuilt transmission Message-ID: <179E441E-9554-446B-AD33-B15FE1ACB7AA@mac.com> Listers, I am wondering if anyone ay have a name or reference to where I can obtain a W58 Toyota transmission (preferably rebuilt). That's from an 85 Toyota Celica, 5 speed. I am presently in Colorado and will be traveling NW and hope to make the change out when I get to Salt Lake City. As I said in an earlier message I obtained this one from a rebuilders in Texas, but since changing out computers and this major move to full time RV'ing I don't have the info any longer. TIA Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From emanteno at comcast.net Thu May 29 11:44:50 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 17:44:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] Anything Triumph Related Going on in SE Wisconsin Next 10 days? Message-ID: <052920081744.17442.483EEB920000A131000044222205884484970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Marty Clark" > I'll be in SE Wisconsin for the next 10 days, anything Triumph related going > on for me to attend? Not SE Wisconsin, but in NE Illinois, the Illinois Sports Owners Association is having our monthly meeting this Sunday in Elmhurst, IL. http://www.snic-braaapp.org/ Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu May 29 13:19:31 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 15:19:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] rebuilt transmission In-Reply-To: <179E441E-9554-446B-AD33-B15FE1ACB7AA@mac.com> References: <179E441E-9554-446B-AD33-B15FE1ACB7AA@mac.com> Message-ID: <001201c8c1c0$edb19920$210110ac@bobspc> Tony, Komex http://www.kormextrans.com/index.php usually has W58s in stock. Other then gear ratio, won't any of the W58 s fit? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 1:10 PM To: email list Subject: [TR] rebuilt transmission Listers, I am wondering if anyone ay have a name or reference to where I can obtain a W58 Toyota transmission (preferably rebuilt). That's from an 85 Toyota Celica, 5 speed. I am presently in Colorado and will be traveling NW and hope to make the change out when I get to Salt Lake City. As I said in an earlier message I obtained this one from a rebuilders in Texas, but since changing out computers and this major move to full time RV'ing I don't have the info any longer. TIA Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.2/1471 - Release Date: 5/28/2008 5:33 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu May 29 13:28:11 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 15:28:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] rebuilt transmission In-Reply-To: <179E441E-9554-446B-AD33-B15FE1ACB7AA@mac.com> References: <179E441E-9554-446B-AD33-B15FE1ACB7AA@mac.com> Message-ID: <001301c8c1c2$23bfd5d0$210110ac@bobspc> Tony, This place http://www.drivetrain.com/transmanuallisting.html#Toyota sells rebuilt, dyno tested and guaranteed Toyota trannys. Other then that you can try one of the online used auto part places http://www.seymourauto.com/findapart.html or http://www.junkyarddog.com/ Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 1:10 PM To: email list Subject: [TR] rebuilt transmission Listers, I am wondering if anyone ay have a name or reference to where I can obtain a W58 Toyota transmission (preferably rebuilt). That's from an 85 Toyota Celica, 5 speed. I am presently in Colorado and will be traveling NW and hope to make the change out when I get to Salt Lake City. As I said in an earlier message I obtained this one from a rebuilders in Texas, but since changing out computers and this major move to full time RV'ing I don't have the info any longer. TIA Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.2/1471 - Release Date: 5/28/2008 5:33 PM From ebartle at hbci.com Thu May 29 13:39:11 2008 From: ebartle at hbci.com (Eric Bartleson) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 14:39:11 -0500 Subject: [TR] Fuel Guage and Speedometer for TR3A Message-ID: <20080529143911.bzzyb77yo0w0ssk8@mail.hbci.com> I need to find a source for a new or rebuilt fuel guage and and speedometer for my TR3A with overdrive. Any suggestions? Eric Bartleson From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu May 29 13:44:24 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 12:44:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] rebuilt transmission In-Reply-To: <001301c8c1c2$23bfd5d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <179E441E-9554-446B-AD33-B15FE1ACB7AA@mac.com> <001301c8c1c2$23bfd5d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Or ... you can go to AAMCO and have it rebuilt and guaranteed for around $450 + tax + parts ... -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 29 14:52:26 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 13:52:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fuel Guage and Speedometer for TR3A In-Reply-To: <20080529143911.bzzyb77yo0w0ssk8@mail.hbci.com> Message-ID: <20080529205227.SSIJ5514.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > I need to find a source for a new or rebuilt fuel guage > and and speedometer for my TR3A with overdrive. Any suggestions? Find cheap cores on eBay and have them rebuilt for you. Mo-Ma in Albuquerque is the best, but last I heard they were way backlogged. So if you are in a hurry, best to go to one of the other services, eg : North Hollywood Speedometer & Clock Co. 6111 Lankershim Blvd. North Hollywood, CA 91606 Phone 818-761-5136 Fax 818-761-4857 http://www.nhspeedometer.com/ BTW, having OD does not affect which speedometer you need, unless your car also has the very rare 4.1 rear axle. Which is a good thing, since the 4.1 speedos are correspondingly rare (I have the only one I've ever seen). Also, best to discuss prices before you send them something, so no nasty surprises later. A quality rebuild is not cheap. Randall 59 TR3A TS39781LO (now totaled :( 56 TR3 TS13571L next project 71 Stag LE1473L awaiting engine rebuild 71 Stag LE2013LBW daily driver wanna be From cpike at cpass.net Thu May 29 16:52:02 2008 From: cpike at cpass.net (Cliff Pike) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 18:52:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] Help to identify this? Message-ID: <483F3391.8090602@cpass.net> Hi List, I have a hood stick frame that came along with a TR3A project some time ago, and it is not a TR3A part. This one has a front piece that fastens to the top of the windscreen with two toggle type clamps.Help to identify this would be very much appreciated, and I do have some pictures if that would help. 1959 TR3A ground up restoration completed Just sold my 1966 Spitfire -- Cliff Pike cpike at cpass.net www.cpass.net C.P. Associates 80 Regal Road Units 8 & 9 Guelph, Ontario N1K 1C1 Tel: 519-767-0191 Fax: 519-824-8959 Newfoundland Overseas Forestry Unit From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu May 29 17:13:46 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 19:13:46 EDT Subject: [TR] rebuilt transmission Message-ID: Quite proud of them too! Used ones around here go for under $200. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 5/29/2008 1:29:01 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: This place http://www.drivetrain.com/transmanuallisting.html#Toyota sells rebuilt, dyno tested and guaranteed Toyota trannys. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From thenicholls at verizon.net Thu May 29 19:50:16 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 20:50:16 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] tr3 lug nuts Message-ID: <3308818.2501881212112217237.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net> If they are the same as TR6 nuts, let me know if John does not have them. Craig 72 TR6 From: John Herrera Date: 2008/05/29 Thu AM 11:09:47 CDT To: richard triplett , triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] tr3 lug nuts > Some time ago, TS75434L had wire wheels installed.> Fortunately, spacers were used so that steel wheels> could be put back on. I prefer the look and safety of> steel wheels and have acquired a full set with nice> hub caps. Only thing I need now is 16 lug nuts.> > Moss motors wants $2.30/ea and TRF wants $3/ea.> Instead of spending $35-40 for a set, I was hoping to> see if anyone here has some old lug nuts laying> around. I'm not expecting free, but hoping for> significantly less than the above prices. Please email> me. Thanks! I think I have some, Richard. Let me look. John H. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu May 29 21:00:26 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 20:00:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] tr3 lug nuts In-Reply-To: <3308818.2501881212112217237.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <20080530030026.CIHC21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > If they are the same as TR6 nuts, let me know if John does > not have them. Not the same, the TR6 nuts are much taller and closed on the end (and chromed). Would fit the studs & wheels, but not sure if they fit under the TR3 hubcaps or not. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri May 30 06:07:35 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 08:07:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Help to identify this? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/29/2008 5:52:27 PM Central Daylight Time, cpike at cpass.net writes: > Hi List, > I have a hood stick frame that came along with a TR3A project some time > ago, and it is not a TR3A part. This one has a front piece that fastens > to the top of the windscreen with two toggle type clamps.Help to > identify this would be very much appreciated, and I do have some > pictures if that would help. > That sounds like MGB. Burn it! It is evil! Just kidding. But it does remind me of my MGB. Dave From thomasb at queensu.ca Fri May 30 06:46:43 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 08:46:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Hub Bearing Kit Install - Advice? Message-ID: <0K1O000XFM68LI10@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi, Last weekend the inner bearing on my TR4A (with IRS) became toast. Thankfully this was at the end of a 250+ mile trip. Yesterday, I installed a replacement bearing kit including inner and outer bearings, seals and collapsible distance piece. While it's all back together, the hub seems hesitant to turn as easily as the other side. It drives fine. I torqued the nut that holds on the hub to 100 lbs as per specs. Note that this hesitancy to turn was present even before the brake drum went on (so it's not brake related). By hesitant to turn, I mean I can't grab the hub and turn it by hand. With the wheel installed, it turns. Do I have a problem or is this the way it is with a new bearing install? Advice gratefully appreciated! Thanks, Brian Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point work: 613-533-2228 R R 1 fax: 613-385-1948 Wolfe Island, Ontario home: 613-385-1947 K0H 2Y0 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From thomasb at queensu.ca Fri May 30 06:48:59 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 08:48:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4A Hub Bearing Kit Install - Advice? Message-ID: <0K1O000RAM9VLH10@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi, Last weekend the inner bearing on my TR4A (with IRS) became toast. Thankfully this was at the end of a 250+ mile trip. Yesterday, I installed a replacement bearing kit including inner and outer bearings, seals and collapsible distance piece. While it's all back together, the hub seems hesitant to turn as easily as the other side. It drives fine. I torqued the nut that holds on the hub to 100 lbs as per specs. Note that this hesitancy to turn was present even before the brake drum went on (so it's not brake related). By hesitant to turn, I mean I can't grab the hub and turn it by hand. With the wheel installed, it turns. Do I have a problem or is this the way it is with a new bearing install? Advice gratefully appreciated! Thanks, Brian Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point work: 613-533-2228 R R 1 fax: 613-385-1948 Wolfe Island, Ontario home: 613-385-1947 K0H 2Y0 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From adcronin at ameritech.net Fri May 30 07:07:27 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 06:07:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Misc. Items Message-ID: <923798.67917.qm@web81303.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 5/30 List I am rebuilding a 55 TR2 and have a couple questions that your help on would be most appreciated: 1) Has anyone with a TR2-3A/B mounted a 13 row oil cooler on their car and if so could you share the details of how you accomplished this (mounted in front or below the radiator). 2) When testing electrical components is it acceptable (safe) to connect directly to the + and - terminals of a 12 volt battery? How about a 12 vole battery charger? Fuse in line? 3) And lastly, does anyone have a front "skid shield" they would part with? If so, please give condition and $$ (to Farmington Hills, MI 48336). Thanks in advance! Dan Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Fri May 30 07:26:12 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 08:26:12 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR4A Hub Bearing Kit Install - Advice? Message-ID: <20080530132612.27029.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> Having done about 5 of these now, I have always found them a little tight to turn after everything is put back together. You didn't mention if you had set the end float? I think (I stress think, since its been a few years since I did this) that if the collapsible washer was "over tightened" you might have some binding, but you'd also have some noticeable end float too. You're conversational style tells me that you must of had the one in a million hubs that came apart with a gentle puff of WD40 and a light tap with a jewelry hammer! I'm currently 4-1 in the hub rebuild stakes, and had to beat the living s**t get the hub flange off on all but one hub (and that one it was so far gone that the flange had all but parted company with the hub), and admitted defeat on one that is now a shelf ornament! ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > -------Original Message------- > From: Brian Thomas > Subject: [TR] TR4A Hub Bearing Kit Install - Advice? > Sent: May 30 '08 07:46 > > Hi, > > Last weekend the inner bearing on my TR4A (with IRS) became > toast. Thankfully this was at the end of a 250+ mile trip. > > Yesterday, I installed a replacement bearing kit including inner and > outer bearings, seals and collapsible distance piece. While it's all > back together, the hub seems hesitant to turn as easily as the other > side. It drives fine. I torqued the nut that holds on the hub to > 100 lbs as per specs. > > Note that this hesitancy to turn was present even before the brake > drum went on (so it's not brake related). By hesitant to turn, I > mean I can't grab the hub and turn it by hand. With the wheel > installed, it turns. > > Do I have a problem or is this the way it is with a new bearing install? > > Advice gratefully appreciated! > > Thanks, > > Brian From thebujas at comcast.net Fri May 30 08:40:24 2008 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 09:40:24 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 seat belt inertia reel anchorage point Message-ID: I bought a pair of inertial reel seat belts from TRF when they were on sale earlier this year to replace the frayed OE lap belts on my 72 TR6. These belts have to be original since there's a vestige of a Triumph book logo on the buckle and "TRIUMPH" on the label sewn in to the belt ends. Unfortunately, there don't appear to be any holes drilled in the wheel arches in my TR6 to accommodate the inertial reel mounting. Does anyone have measurements of where the mounting hole is on their car so I can mount mine in the same place? I'm looking for something like "My seatbelt anchor is 1-1/2 inches to the rear of the vertical rise from the floor pan to the package shelf above the diff and 3/4 inch above the package shelf where it meets the wheel arch". These measurements are made up, of course, since I have no idea where it should be right now. Thanks in advance, Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 From cm.sherman at verizon.net Fri May 30 08:50:43 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 14:50:43 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 Overdrive problem Message-ID: <1146767590-1212159042-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-810100983-@bxe118.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Have an issue using OD and would like some guidance. .. When I engage OD in 4th it works fine, but doesn't seem to disengage after pushing off the OD button. Sometimes it "sticks" and prevents shifting into reverse, while all the forward gears will work. Any ideas? Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Fri May 30 09:02:21 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 11:02:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] RE TR3 Overdrive problem Message-ID: <484016fd.22f.c26.20217@cogeco.ca> Make sure the solinoid is moving freely and fully, there's a little arm that sticks out the opposite side of the gearbox and when the solinoid is working properly the hole in the centre of that arm should line up with a hold in the gearbox casing (can't remember if it's when it's off or on they line up), you can use a 3/8s screw to check. Not sure if oil pressure affects the disengagement but while you're under there you might as well check it ;) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 30 09:30:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 08:30:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Overdrive problem In-Reply-To: <1146767590-1212159042-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-810100983-@bxe118.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <20080530153039.IXOJ21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Sometimes it > "sticks" and prevents shifting into reverse, while all the > forward gears will work. Just for clarity, Corey, having the OD stuck on won't prevent shifting into reverse. It just won't let the car move in reverse. (And as everyone knows, forcing it to move under those conditions will destroy the OD.) First thing I would check is electrical, just because it's easier to get to. When the problem happens, try pulling the solenoid wire off the relay (under the dash, forward of the heater, on the back of the battery box). If you're not sure which is which, just pull off both the wires that run into the tunnel (but try to remember which one goes to which terminal so you can reconnect them later). If that releases the OD, then the problem is electrical, possibly a short at the relay. Since that's not likely to be the problem, next step is to pull the tunnel off and remove the stem from the operating valve. IMO, best to let it cool overnight first. Flip the OD on & off a few times (key on, engine off, 4th gear) to try to release the pressure. Undo the hex plug on the RH top of the OD (which may burp out some oil under pressure, but only a little bit) and collect the copper washer, spring, distance piece and ball under the plug. (Items 20,18,17,16 in the diagram at http://tinyurl.com/6ye5cu ) Then use a bent paperclip or similar pushed down the hole in the center to withdraw the stem (Item 15). There is a tiny hole in the side of the stem that drains oil from the center of the stem. If that hole is blocked, it can cause the OD to not disengage (or even engage without the solenoid being activated). While you're in there, inspect the ball to be sure it's perfect and that it's seat in the OD casting is in good shape. Also with the tunnel off, you can verify that the solenoid is releasing and the operating lever dropping. If not, there may be grit inside the solenoid causing it to bind. You can also double-check the adjustment (tho I doubt that's the problem). If all that fails, the problem is likely inside the unit, meaning it has to come out of the car. More info at http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AOD/AOD5/AOD5.htm Randall From thebujas at comcast.net Fri May 30 09:31:44 2008 From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 10:31:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR6 seat belt inertia reel anchorage point In-Reply-To: <20080530145518.24544.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> Message-ID: My commission number is CC762xx. There is a chrome bolt for the upper mount in the wheel arch just below the folded hood frame but I couldn't find a lower mounting point for the inertia reel. Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: Tony Gordon [mailto:triumph at 2simpleusa.com] I have two 72's and they both have mounting points ... I can measure the location over the weekend on the parts car in the hope that you can locate the exact point. I would recommend trying to find the factory point if you can since it will give you a much better mechanical fixing that a hole drilled through the wheel arch alone. What's the commission number of your car? Mine are in the CC 79xxx and 80xxx range. From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri May 30 11:15:04 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 13:15:04 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 seat belt inertia reel anchorage point Message-ID: In a message dated 5/30/2008 9:41:13 AM Central Daylight Time, thebujas at comcast.net writes: > I bought a pair of inertial reel seat belts from TRF when they were on sale > earlier this year to replace the frayed OE lap belts on my 72 TR6. These > belts have to be original since there's a vestige of a Triumph book logo on > the buckle and "TRIUMPH" on the label sewn in to the belt ends. > > Unfortunately, there don't appear to be any holes drilled in the wheel > arches in my TR6 to accommodate the inertial reel mounting. Does anyone > have measurements of where the mounting hole is on their car so I can mount > mine in the same place? I'm looking for something like "My seatbelt anchor > is 1-1/2 inches to the rear of the vertical rise from the floor pan to the > package shelf above the diff and 3/4 inch above the package shelf where it > meets the wheel arch". These measurements are made up, of course, since I > have no idea where it should be right now. > That's where I mounted mine on the 71. At the time I had my 74 so I took my cue from that. It is directly below the existing holes. Also note that the holes are reinforced with a tackwelded on plate to prevent the belt from tearing out of the wheel well. My answer was a couple of large washers. Don't count on a lock washer and nut to prevent tear out. Dave Massey From bill_beecher at flash.net Fri May 30 11:47:02 2008 From: bill_beecher at flash.net (Bill Beecher) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 11:47:02 -0600 Subject: [TR] Oil Gallery Plug Message-ID: <003a01c8c27d$2c245be0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Almost done, and now this... Is there a suitable plug available to replace Moss #328-255 engine block plug? (Moss shows it as N/A) Is this a common thread that I can fin at my FLAPS? Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From wbeech at flash.net Fri May 30 12:19:20 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 12:19:20 -0600 Subject: [TR] Oil Gallery Plug Message-ID: <004e01c8c281$b0d11000$6401a8c0@sniffer> Almost done, and now this... Is there a suitable plug available to replace Moss #328-255 engine block plug? (Moss shows it as N/A) Is this a common thread that I can fin at my FLAPS? Thanks, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" From ggelhar at earthlink.net Fri May 30 15:08:46 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 16:08:46 -0500 Subject: [TR] Misc. Items Message-ID: <410-22008553021845450@earthlink.net> Dan, I like to use a large 1 ohm resistor between the battery + and the device I am testing. If the device is faulty and shorted the maximum current that flows is 12 amps. A serviceable substitution for the resistor is a common headlamp with test leads soldered to it. It will pass the necessary current to test most components. If the component is shorted, the headlamp will light without harm. You can also judge the current draw by looking at the intensity of the light. Greg Gelhar 1973 TR6 1980 TR8 Osseo, MN . > Subject: [TR] Misc. Items > 2) When testing > electrical components is it acceptable (safe) to connect directly to the + and > - terminals of a 12 volt battery? > How about a 12 vole battery charger? Fuse > in line? > A. Daniel Cronin From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 30 16:59:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 15:59:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] Misc. Items In-Reply-To: <410-22008553021845450@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080530225906.QKUI21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > A serviceable substitution for the resistor is a common > headlamp with test leads soldered to it. I'll second that, with the added observation that a "burned out" bulb will do nicely. Almost always one filament burns out first, leaving the other available for testing. I keep a pile of H4 bulbs for just such purposes. But of course a headlight bulb will only pass a few amps. If you're testing a starter, it isn't going to work. Problem with using a 1 ohm resistor is that it will burn up quickly if you have a short, unless it's a really big (expensive) resistor. 12 amps times 12 volts is 144 watts. I find it easier and less expensive to just consider test leads as consumables ... if the smoke comes out, buy a new one. They're only about $1/ea @ Radio Shack. http://tinyurl.com/4k5bp3 Also very handy to carry on trips, for "roadside tech sessions" and as temporary workarounds for switches & wires that don't want to do their job. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 30 17:39:26 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 16:39:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Oil Gallery Plug In-Reply-To: <004e01c8c281$b0d11000$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080530233926.NFGM5514.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Is there a suitable plug available to replace Moss #328-255 > engine block plug? (Moss shows it as N/A) TRF has them listed, P/N PU1404/3. > Is this a common thread that I can fin at my FLAPS? Doubt it. According to the magic decoder ring, it's 3/4" UNF by 1/2" long. Randall From bengeult at comcast.net Fri May 30 18:37:29 2008 From: bengeult at comcast.net (Greg Bengeult) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 17:37:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dead brake servo Message-ID: <48409DC9.4000703@comcast.net> Fellow listers, Today while out driving my '71 TR6 my brake servo failed. It appears to be a vacuum leak in the main diaphragm that only shows up when I step on the brake pedal. Needless to say, braking effort is now much higher. As this is my daily driver, I need to get it taken care of right away. Who is currently rebuilding brake servos? I'm looking specifically for someone who can sell me a rebuilt one right away, and then I'll send back the core after I do the R&R. Many thanks, Greg B 1971 TR6 CC63352L From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri May 30 19:13:20 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 21:13:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Dead brake servo In-Reply-To: <48409DC9.4000703@comcast.net> References: <48409DC9.4000703@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000501c8c2bb$86630b90$210110ac@bobspc> Greg, Give Ted Schumacher a call. I got my rebuilt servo from him over the winter. He usually has rebuilt servos and calipers in stock. http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ You won't find them listed on his site so just call him up. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg Bengeult Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 8:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Dead brake servo Fellow listers, Today while out driving my '71 TR6 my brake servo failed. It appears to be a vacuum leak in the main diaphragm that only shows up when I step on the brake pedal. Needless to say, braking effort is now much higher. As this is my daily driver, I need to get it taken care of right away. Who is currently rebuilding brake servos? I'm looking specifically for someone who can sell me a rebuilt one right away, and then I'll send back the core after I do the R&R. Many thanks, Greg B 1971 TR6 CC63352L 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1473 - Release Date: 5/29/2008 7:53 PM From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri May 30 20:32:15 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 22:32:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel bearing snuffness Message-ID: <005001c8c2c6$8ab61100$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I am installing new felt seals along with the new front wheel bearings on my '60 TR3. Unfortunately, getting the bearings off the stub axle (after a trial fit) required prying. It must not have been careful enough, because it got the outer ring of the wheel bearing slightly out of round (I proably can make it round again since it's only about 1/16th" off. I hope it's permissable? (I know it's technically my car...) I've also followed the workshop manual's method for tightening the wheel bearings which is essentially to do a trial fitting with all parts of the front wheel EXCEPT the felt seal and retainer and 'hand tighten' the castle nut, slacken till alignment with cotter pin for castle nut, mark this spot by drift on stub axle (I used the 'count-the-threads-showing-method' to replicate this position). On the second time around I included the new felt seals and retainer (felt side first, retainer out) soaked in oil and squeezed out of felt. The alarming thing about tightening it up was that the sides were different. On the final attempt for one front wheel (spinning of wheel during tightening was always done) required a good deal more torque (guessed) in order to reach the pre-felt/retainer-hand-tightening position of castle nut. And, of course, this made the wheel stop so that the wheel ceased spinning. It was also disconcerting that on one of the wheels, an extra washer was required prior to the castle nut so that the slots in the castle nut engaged the cotter pin. Also, the manual says .003-.005" of end float 'looseness' should result from 'slackening' the first attempt on the castle nut. I think I achieved this measurement taken between castle nut and washer. I hope this is understandable... ask me if it's not. Thanks, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 600 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Fri May 30 18:06:29 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 20:06:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 4-pot Caliper Info - response Message-ID: <81FB0D9752984DBFAE2F673FEBE63F1F@D1TG6Y71> In my haste, I deleted the email from some poor soul who had asked about Toyota 4-pot calipers for a TR6 ... details here http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=1982 0&PartType=5003&PTSet=A You can search around and get the caliper for less than the AAP $70 if you look hard. Don't forget, you will need to adapt the rigid line connection as per all the excellent articles out there on the conversion. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri May 30 22:58:38 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 21:58:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 wheel bearing snuffness In-Reply-To: <005001c8c2c6$8ab61100$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080531045838.TSTM21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Unfortunately, getting the > bearings off the stub axle (after a trial fit) required > prying. Paul, I find that worrisome right there. The inner races should be a light push fit on the axle; if it's that tight then there was grit trapped under the bearing or the axle is damaged, etc. > It must not have been careful enough, because it got > the outer ring of the wheel bearing slightly out of round (I > proably can make it round again since it's only about 1/16th" > off. I assume you are talking about the metal cage that spaces the rollers apart. A small amount of distortion won't hurt, but it must not drag on the races and the rollers must still be free to turn easily. As it can be difficult to judge those conditions, my suggestion would be to replace it. But if you are talking about the outer race (hardened surface that the rollers bear against), then any damage whatsoever, even a visible scuff, demands it be replaced. It is an extremely precise surface and any deviation at all will lead to rapid destruction in operation. The results can be quite unpleasant. > The alarming thing about tightening it up was that the > sides were different. This is exactly the reason for the rather odd procedure; the seals are highly variable. > And, of course, this made the wheel stop so that the wheel > ceased spinning. Not spinning freely is OK. But you should still be able to turn it by hand. If not, I suggest you've made a mistake. > It was also disconcerting that on one of the wheels, an > extra washer was required prior to the castle nut so that the > slots in the castle nut engaged the cotter pin. That also sounds like a problem. Is it possible you've got the wrong bearings, or the stub axle is not properly assembled to the vertical link ? These are safety-critical components, so it's important it be right. > Also, the > manual says .003-.005" of end float 'looseness' > should result from 'slackening' the first attempt on the > castle nut. I think I achieved this measurement taken > between castle nut and washer. It's very difficult to measure this directly, as normally the weight of the hub will push the bearing out against the washer. But if you've followed the procedure in the book (which as I recall says to back off at least 1 full flat before inserting the pin), then the clearance should be adequate. Randall From levilevi at comcast.net Sat May 31 00:57:27 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 00:57:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] Dead brake servo References: <48409DC9.4000703@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001f01c8c2eb$96b58240$9d63b043@rolofson> Greg, You can still drive it if you plug the vacuum line with a bolt...3/8 inch I think. The braking will be a bit more difficult but the brakes will still stop you the same. I had a servo go out at as I pulled into the parking lot at VTR 2000 in Portland but someone convinced me that it was still driveable and it was as I autocrossed without the servo and drove back to Denver with no problems. I actually got to like the feel of the brakes without the servo but I still got it rebuilt and put back on anyhow. The place in Ohio where I got it rebuilt doesn't do them anymore so can't help with a resource. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Greg Bengeult To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 6:37 PM Subject: [TR] Dead brake servo Fellow listers, Today while out driving my '71 TR6 my brake servo failed. It appears to be a vacuum leak in the main diaphragm that only shows up when I step on the brake pedal. Needless to say, braking effort is now much higher. As this is my daily driver, I need to get it taken care of right away. Who is currently rebuilding brake servos? I'm looking specifically for someone who can sell me a rebuilt one right away, and then I'll send back the core after I do the R&R. Many thanks, Greg B 1971 TR6 CC63352L _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat May 31 06:59:03 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 08:59:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 4-pot Caliper Info - response In-Reply-To: <81FB0D9752984DBFAE2F673FEBE63F1F@D1TG6Y71> References: <81FB0D9752984DBFAE2F673FEBE63F1F@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <48414B97.80106@bright.net> Tony Gordon wrote: > In my haste, I deleted the email from some poor soul who had asked about > Toyota 4-pot calipers for a TR6 ... details here > http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=1982 > 0&PartType=5003&PTSet=A > > You can search around and get the caliper for less than the AAP $70 if you > look hard. Don't forget, you will need to adapt the rigid line connection as > per all the excellent articles out there on the conversion. > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1475 - Release Date: 5/30/2008 2:53 PM > Tony, you do not have to adapt the hard line. We make a stainless steel braid hose that goes directly into the caliper. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From ms6453 at optonline.net Sat May 31 09:23:52 2008 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 11:23:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 4-pot Caliper Info - response In-Reply-To: <48414B97.80106@bright.net> References: <81FB0D9752984DBFAE2F673FEBE63F1F@D1TG6Y71> <48414B97.80106@bright.net> Message-ID: <4F9A79773C7B407B9D909975CC39BB86@marcydesk> I'm a little confused here. Ted , do you sell a complete kit, calipers, hose & adapters ? I checked your site but did not see the product. Mitch Seff From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 31 12:25:02 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 11:25:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] P/N 102801 Message-ID: <20080531182503.SMZD25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> These are the thrust washers that the side gears in the differential ride against. The originals in my Stag differential were brass (or bronze), but the replacements appear to be plastic of some sort (perhaps reinforced phenolic). They fit perfectly, so no doubt they were intended for this application, but ... Anyone know if the plastic ones hold up OK ? Randall From L1J1S at aol.com Sat May 31 13:40:38 2008 From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 15:40:38 EDT Subject: [TR] tra Message-ID: lsit, with reference to the triumph register of america national newsletter vol 27 #4 issue # 104. there is a picture of a tr2 or a early tr3 on the cover with the neatest split windshields. two things, can anyone scan the picture for me and e-mail it to me? secondly, does anyone have a lead to where a set of these can be had? larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a supercharged **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From allegrorover at mac.com Sat May 31 14:12:07 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 14:12:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] tra In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <20503325-0CB4-494E-AA7E-FD1E2F2A33CB@mac.com> I'd like to see the picture to be sure what you mean by split windshield. Your not talking about the Brooklands are you? On May 31, 2008, at 1:40 PM, L1J1S at aol.com wrote: > lsit, with reference to the triumph register of america national > newsletter > vol 27 #4 issue # 104. there is a picture of a tr2 or a early tr3 on > the cover > with the neatest split windshields. two things, can anyone scan the > picture > for me and e-mail it to me? secondly, does anyone have a lead to > where a set > of these can be had? larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a supercharged > Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat May 31 14:49:04 2008 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 13:49:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? References: <20503325-0CB4-494E-AA7E-FD1E2F2A33CB@mac.com> Message-ID: <009d01c8c362$792972f0$8701a8c0@Dell> My 3 year old grandson just sent me a picture of a TR3A he saw at the library today, he lives in Carmel, Indiana. I can see the email group decal on the windshield, so if you are still on the list, just wanted to say nice car, and thanks for taking it out and stimulating the interest of the youngest generation. Since I'm in CA, he doesn't get to play with my cars very often Bob From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Sat May 31 15:35:33 2008 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 17:35:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized Message-ID: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net> Hello all - Well, I 've trying the Marvel Mystery oil for a week now and still can't turn the engine by hand. I am pretty sure the clutch is not engaged. I move the car when in neutral. I tried putting the car in 1st gear and all I can get is the car to slid not able to get it to move forward at all. When I garaged the car all was well. Not sure why everything is seized and not sure where to go from here. I tried all the previous suggestions so now I need something new. Jerry 68 GT6 Mk1 From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Sat May 31 15:44:20 2008 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 14:44:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized References: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net> Message-ID: <00ae01c8c369$b35629d0$8701a8c0@Dell> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerrold Le Tourneau" To: Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 2:35 PM Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized > Hello all - > > Well, I 've trying the Marvel Mystery oil for a week now and still can't > turn the engine by hand. I am pretty sure the clutch is not engaged. I > move the car when in neutral. I tried putting the car in 1st gear and > all I can get is the car to slid not able to get it to move forward at > all. When I garaged the car all was well. Not sure why everything is > seized and not sure where to go from here. I tried all the previous > suggestions so now I need something new. > > Jerry > > 68 GT6 Mk1 I don't remember if you said the starter was spinning or not, but it is something that could cause the engine to lock up like you describe, at least on a TR3. Might be worth removing the starter just to make sure the gear isn't jammed into the flywheel. Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 31 16:02:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 15:02:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized In-Reply-To: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20080531220216.RVG21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I tried putting the car in 1st gear and all I can get is the > car to slid not able to get it to move forward at all. Actually, 4th gear works better for this; better mechanical advantage. > When > I garaged the car all was well. Not sure why everything is > seized and not sure where to go from here. I tried all the > previous suggestions so now I need something new. Unfortunately, Jerry, I think it's time to pull the head off and get the bad news. Not that it's any consolation, but I've seen it before. Many years ago, a friend went off to the Army and left his MGA with a freshly rebuilt motor parked at my place. When I tried to move it a couple months later, the engine was locked solid. Ultimately he had to break one of the brand-new pistons to get it out of the bore. The problem is that there are always cylinders with the valves open, exposing them to outside air. With changes in barometric pressure, temperature and humidity, dew forms inside the cylinder; which has bare, dissimilar metals in close contact. If the oil film gets washed away, the result is corrosion. And what seems most ironic, it's "fresh" engines that seem mostly prone to this problem. Old, tired engines have a coating of varnish on everything ... Randall From moira.secrest at verizon.net Sat May 31 16:28:06 2008 From: moira.secrest at verizon.net (M Secrest) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 18:28:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] Damper O-rings? Message-ID: Stromberg CD 150's. Somewhere I remember reading there's a little o-ring in the bottom of the piston that keeps in the damper oil? If so, how to access? Mine are completely shot. I assume I can get replacements off the shelf .. if I can get them out? == Martin Secrest 73 GT6 72 TR6 Arlington, VA From Loumetelko at aol.com Sat May 31 17:56:59 2008 From: Loumetelko at aol.com (Loumetelko at aol.com) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 19:56:59 EDT Subject: [TR] tra Message-ID: The photo in question is of TS403L which was a factory works rally car. TS403L was built in mid January of 1954 so even though we would all like to have a set of those wind screens, they were no doubt a factory, custom made set. At the wheel of TS403L in the photo is a youngish looking Ken Richardson so the photo is probably dated February / March of 1954 just prior to its assignment to compete in the 1954 Italian Mille Miglia race. BTW according to Bill Piggott the car has survived and resides in England. Lou Metelko Auburn, Indiana ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From fogbro1 at comcast.net Sat May 31 18:02:24 2008 From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (Ed Woods) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 20:02:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized References: <20080531220216.RVG21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <002f01c8c37a$c5d66e10$6500a8c0@Edscomputer> I purchased a TR3 with at "seized" engine once upon a time. Turned out to be a jammed starter. Just a thought. Ed From mgman71 at comcast.net Sat May 31 18:22:24 2008 From: mgman71 at comcast.net (George Re) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 20:22:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] 74 TR6 Engine Message-ID: <003401c8c37d$92aae220$0201a8c0@homeqp0ya3bbsv> If there is anyone in the New York area (Dutchess County area) that would like a Free low milage 74 TR6 engine (47000 miles) let me know. It has been out of the car for 5 years it ran great when removed. If not going to the junk man. George From diggle at clear.net.nz Sat May 31 18:51:19 2008 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2008 12:51:19 +1200 Subject: [TR] Trunnions Message-ID: <000a01c8c381$9b2415d0$6e01a8c0@athlon> 1962 TR4 with 3 degree trunnions. I have purchased a kit for the front suspension with new trust washers etc. I am supposed to torque the new outer trunnion trust washer and the outer washer onto the trunnion splines at 50lb to serate the outer washer. I am not up to 80lb and only limited success. I think that about 200-300 lb would do it which scares me. The old outer washers are are re-usable. Do I slightly drill out the new washers so that there is less steel to serate. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jim and his immobile TR4 From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Sat May 31 18:59:07 2008 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 20:59:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized In-Reply-To: <00ae01c8c369$b35629d0$8701a8c0@Dell> References: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net> <00ae01c8c369$b35629d0$8701a8c0@Dell> Message-ID: <4841F45B.8070501@verizon.net> I will check by removing the starter motor. The starter motor is turning but not engaging. I have another stater and had switched it out because of the same problem, i.e.starter spinning but not engaging. Jerry 68 GT6 MK1 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 31 20:13:02 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 19:13:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trunnions In-Reply-To: <000a01c8c381$9b2415d0$6e01a8c0@athlon> Message-ID: <20080601021302.IMVK8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I think that about 200-300 lb > would do it which scares me. Me too, they should go on easily. > The old outer washers are are re-usable. Do I slightly drill > out the new washers so that there is less steel to serate. I'd reuse the old ones. Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat May 31 21:30:36 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 22:30:36 -0500 Subject: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? References: <20503325-0CB4-494E-AA7E-FD1E2F2A33CB@mac.com> <009d01c8c362$792972f0$8701a8c0@Dell> Message-ID: <008901c8c399$096f97a0$8115a8c0@garage.local> there's an email list decal????????? > My 3 year old grandson just sent me a picture of a TR3A he saw at the > library today, he lives in Carmel, Indiana. I can see the email group > decal > on the windshield, so if you are still on the list, just wanted to say > nice > car, and thanks for taking it out and stimulating the interest of the > youngest generation. Since I'm in CA, he doesn't get to play with my cars > very often > > Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat May 31 22:42:49 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 21:42:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? In-Reply-To: <008901c8c399$096f97a0$8115a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <20080601044249.JMEP8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > there's an email list decal????????? Yup, Joe Curry made them several years ago. All gone, dunno if he'd consider doing them again or not. Got the T-shirt too Randall From wbeech at flash.net Sat May 31 23:48:25 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 23:48:25 -0600 Subject: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? In-Reply-To: <008901c8c399$096f97a0$8115a8c0@garage.local> References: <20503325-0CB4-494E-AA7E-FD1E2F2A33CB@mac.com><009d01c8c362$792972f0$8701a8c0@Dell> <008901c8c399$096f97a0$8115a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <001401c8c3ab$1d1ccdb0$6401a8c0@sniffer> There is a badge, I have one! -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 9:31 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? there's an email list decal????????? > My 3 year old grandson just sent me a picture of a TR3A he saw at the > library today, he lives in Carmel, Indiana. I can see the email group > decal on the windshield, so if you are still on the list, just wanted > to say nice car, and thanks for taking it out and stimulating the > interest of the youngest generation. Since I'm in CA, he doesn't get > to play with my cars very often > > Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive