From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Mar  1 04:57:35 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 06:57:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] FW:  anyone recognize this mirror?
References: <030120080417.12300.47C8D8F20003B6F20000300C22135285739D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <07fd01c87b93$70e03550$6401a8c0@STATION6>

It's an original, (early) TR3 rear view mirror.
Alex Manzo
TR6
TR3A
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: <british-cars at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 11:17 PM
Subject: [British-cars] FW: [TR] anyone recognize this mirror?


> Reply directly to 
> sumton at sbcglobal.net
> NOT to me.
> 
> -------------- Forwarded Message: --------------
> From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [TR] anyone recognize this mirror?
> Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 01:19:17 +0000
>> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
>> 
>> this showed up and i don't know what car its from
>> 
>> thanks!

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Mar  1 05:02:23 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 07:02:23 -0500
Subject: [TR] scuttle vent screws
References: <d5e.232b422b.34fa1712@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000901c87b94$1cb947e0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Should be 10X32...
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <FGFO1 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:18 PM
Subject: [TR] scuttle vent screws


> hi
> There are 4 screws that hold the scuttle vent to the scuttle on the TR3.
> Any idea of size?
> 3/16?
> #10
> the dreaded BA?
> thanks
> Frank Fisher

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Mar  1 05:04:49 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 07:04:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question
References: <645FC865.0BB67AEB.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000e01c87b94$7379fd90$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I've got a Garmin c530 and it's nice - not all the bells and whistles, but 
gets me where I need to be.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
To: <TR6UO at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question


>i have a Magellan and love it!
>
> more recently the FoT guys have been promoting the purchase of the
> GARMIN NUVI
>
> I think you can get a socket from RADIO SHACK and install it.
>
> Joe A
>
>>Listers,
>>
>>I don't recall this subject ever being addressed here, but would 
>>appreciate
>>any input. What brand and model GPS systems, if any, is anyone using? What
>>features do you find indispensable and which are really overrated?
>>
>>I'm researching the TomTom, Garmin Nuvi, and Magellan brands. So far I 
>>would
>>go with the
>>"Speaks Street Name", "Traffic" and a 4.0 or larger screen. What else??
>>Other brands??
>>
>>I guess the only thing that makes it a non-TR subject is the fact that 
>>most
>>TRs have no 12V outlet in which to plug it-at least mine doesn't.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Steve

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sat Mar  1 06:48:04 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 13:48:04 -0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question
References: <645FC865.0BB67AEB.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<000d01c87b99$de72d720$6601a8c0@Robert>
Message-ID: <007001c87ba2$dfb81240$0201a8c0@Bevan>

I recently bought a TomTom UK and Europe set-up. I admit to being very sneering in the past about 
GPS systems, claiming that if you couldn't read a map you ought not to be driving :) I eat my words. 
My TomTom has more than fulfilled my expectations and I actually used it last weekend in the 
Spitfire to get to and later get away from an obscure location in London. IMHO, whatever GPS system 
you choose to buy, they're all excellent pieces of kit and I suppose it all boils down to what price 
you want to pay, how the info is presented and which accent you like best that comes from the 
instrument itself.

Jonmac 

From lbc.resto at comcast.net  Sat Mar  1 06:59:32 2008
From: lbc.resto at comcast.net (Ian)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 08:59:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question
In-Reply-To: <000e01c87b94$7379fd90$5918e247@DCS78M81>
References: <645FC865.0BB67AEB.00159EE9@cs.com>
	<000e01c87b94$7379fd90$5918e247@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <001301c87ba4$79b35cf0$0202a8c0@RAS>

TomTom One for me; reasonably priced and easy to use.  I use it for work
(US, Canada and Europe), but have also discovered that it is great for TR
drives out into the country; go where we want without thinking about it and
when done we just punch "Home" and have it take us back.

As to the street names being spoken, I haven't found a need for it even when
I am in a strange city; "next left, second right" has worked fine for me.

I have a driver not a show car, so I installed a hidden cigarette lighter
socket in the TR to power it.

Ian
1962 TR4

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
THOMAS FANSHER
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 7:05 AM
To: N197TR4 at cs.com; TR6UO at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net;
6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question

I've got a Garmin c530 and it's nice - not all the bells and whistles, but 
gets me where I need to be.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <N197TR4 at cs.com>
To: <TR6UO at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:09 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question


>i have a Magellan and love it!
>
> more recently the FoT guys have been promoting the purchase of the
> GARMIN NUVI
>
> I think you can get a socket from RADIO SHACK and install it.
>
> Joe A
>
>>Listers,
>>
>>I don't recall this subject ever being addressed here, but would 
>>appreciate
>>any input. What brand and model GPS systems, if any, is anyone using? What
>>features do you find indispensable and which are really overrated?
>>
>>I'm researching the TomTom, Garmin Nuvi, and Magellan brands. So far I 
>>would
>>go with the
>>"Speaks Street Name", "Traffic" and a 4.0 or larger screen. What else??
>>Other brands??
>>
>>I guess the only thing that makes it a non-TR subject is the fact that 
>>most
>>TRs have no 12V outlet in which to plug it-at least mine doesn't.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>Steve
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as lbc.resto at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3abobm77 at verizon.net  Sat Mar  1 07:41:35 2008
From: tr3abobm77 at verizon.net (BobTr3A)
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2008 09:41:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Fort Wayne Clutch & Driveline
Message-ID: <009d01c87baa$5a85bcf0$0201a8c0@zora>

I have lived in Fort Wayne all my life, 59 years, and Fort Wayne Clutch has
been around
as long as I can remember. I had them rebuild my 59 TR3 pressure plate in 1968
and they
did an excellent job. I went there about 5 years ago to have my clutch disk
relined for the
same car and they already had one made up so I just gave them my old one. Only
$55
if I remember right. They also have a very good reputation with all the hot
rodders in the area.
Since I live here I don't have any experience with doing business long
distance with them.
Hope this helps.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar  1 08:07:50 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 15:07:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
In-Reply-To: <94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
References: <CB5535BF7EC444F0AD016B50E49EFEEA@rwa.local>
	<94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W36AD23362F996134237106E5150@phx.gbl>

Removal is very straight forward.  Just make sure you get all the bolts.  Then
with a helper lift it out by the cross brace above the radiator.

Installation can be more tedious.  You have to get your fender beads seated.
I work from top to bottom tightening bolts as I go.  I have a problem with the
lower lip aligning with the fenders.  So I have moved my bumper brackets to
their rear position.  Now I install the bumper bolts over large washers and
tighten them.  This pulls the lip of the apron into alignment with the
fenders.  I finish tightening all the bolts and it is done.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sat Mar  1 08:19:04 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 10:19:04 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question
Message-ID: <cfc.2b8d6de9.34facde8@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/1/2008 5:49:15 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

I  recently bought a TomTom UK and Europe set-up. I admit to being very 
sneering  in the past about 
GPS systems, claiming that if you couldn't read a map  you ought not to be 
driving :) I eat my words. 
My TomTom has more than  fulfilled my expectations and I actually used it 
last weekend in the  
Spitfire to get to and later get away from an obscure location in London.  
IMHO, whatever GPS system 
you choose to buy, they're all excellent pieces  of kit and I suppose it all 
boils down to what price 
you want to pay, how  the info is presented and which accent you like best 
that comes from the  
instrument itself.

Jonmac 



We bought a Garmin Nuvi 660 and just think its great. QWe are surprized by  
the features we don't use and those we do use!
 
1.We were on a trip and staying in a motel in Ventura recently. The  wife 
says "I wonder where is the closest drug store?" -just click in on the  screen 
the "shiopping" tab and go down the menu fir drug stores. Soon, there's a  
choice, all ranked by proximity-closest on top.
Missing an off-ramp or a freeway turn-offin a strange city is easily  
recovered 
 
 
2. Especially true at restaurants also-meeting friends and decide to go  
out-check restaurants trhe same way.  The telephone blue tooth feature  allows 
youto call immediately.
 
3. The telephone feature is very useful. My cell directory pops tight up to  
the Nuvi . The voice quality is great,
 
 
4. Believe it or not, the photo storage feature is neat and useful. On a  
weekend trip, we may take some photos with friends. I can just put the chip in  
the Nuvi and we can have a nice photo show. 
 
We don't use and would not get:
 
1. The talking book feature-ridiculously priced subscription  service.  
2. Probably not the traffic advisory service.
Mike Moore 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar  1 08:02:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 07:02:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] [British-cars] FW:  anyone recognize this mirror?
In-Reply-To: <07fd01c87b93$70e03550$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <20080301150228.ETIJ9254.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> It's an original, (early) TR3 rear view mirror.

If so, it's badly damaged.  The stem for a TR3 should be straight where
Oliver's photo shows a marked curve.  The TR3 mirror mounts to a horizontal
surface (scuttle) and the mirror surface is adjustable above and below
vertical.  The second photo makes it clear this is not the case with the
mirror shown; in fact the subject mirror can't be pulled up as far as
vertical.

But given that there are no other indications of damage, I think this is a
similar mirror from another application.  Sorry, no idea which one.

Randall

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Sat Mar  1 08:25:13 2008
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 07:25:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
References: <CB5535BF7EC444F0AD016B50E49EFEEA@rwa.local><94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
	<BAY110-W36AD23362F996134237106E5150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001701c87bb0$724145c0$0101a8c0@paulal73q2sjay>

A couple of days before you start, you might want to spray the captive nuts 
with rust penetrant.

When I put mine back together, I used liberal amounts of antiseize on the 
bolts.

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Mar  1 08:43:30 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2008 15:43:30 +0000
Subject: [TR] GPS -
Message-ID: <030120081543.29222.47C979A2000018210000722622007621949D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>

John, When Jere and I were visiting you last year, we had his GPS with us. We tried to use it once near the British Codes Museum and found it worthless. I had asked the list before we went and the condenses was that they were of little help in the UK. Jere did get the proper maps, etc. Anyway, have things improved? Is it just good in London? 
Inquiring minds want to know.  
Thanks again for the great time we had last year  -- snow and all.
Tom 
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
> I recently bought a TomTom UK and Europe set-up. I admit to being very sneering 
> in the past about 
> GPS systems, claiming that if you couldn't read a map you ought not to be 
> driving :) I eat my words. 
> My TomTom has more than fulfilled my expectations and I actually used it last 
> weekend in the 
> Spitfire to get to and later get away from an obscure location in London. IMHO, 
> whatever GPS system 
> you choose to buy, they're all excellent pieces of kit and I suppose it all 
> boils down to what price 
> you want to pay, how the info is presented and which accent you like best that 
> comes from the 
> instrument itself.
> 
> Jonmac 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Mar  1 10:06:02 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 12:06:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] Nexen Tires
Message-ID: <200803011206.03342.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Just saw this on ebay. Nexen tires 165/15 2 for 96$.

Anyone ever heard of this make?

Seems too good to be true.

Item # 140211793730

Bob

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Mar  1 09:43:16 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 08:43:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 front apron
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W36AD23362F996134237106E5150@phx.gbl>
References: <CB5535BF7EC444F0AD016B50E49EFEEA@rwa.local>
	<94113716F9E56A4F9AA71A6E91DBE4F0ACB2@RWA-SRV001.rwa.local>
	<BAY110-W36AD23362F996134237106E5150@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <p06240800c3ef3753ea26@[98.224.7.170]>

This may be "heresy" , but when we last removed the front apron on 
Casper (TR3), I was tired of fooling with the fender bead, and those 
pesky tabs.  Sooo we took a very small drill, and some matching small 
screws, and screwed those tabs in place.  The screws are "invisible", 
and they keep everything aligned, and out of the way  ...  Just a 
thought for the thinkers ...


>Removal is very straight forward.  Just make sure you get all the bolts.  Then
>with a helper lift it out by the cross brace above the radiator.
>
>Installation can be more tedious.  You have to get your fender beads seated.
>I work from top to bottom tightening bolts as I go.  I have a problem with the
>lower lip aligning with the fenders.  So I have moved my bumper brackets to
>their rear position.  Now I install the bumper bolts over large washers and
>tighten them.  This pulls the lip of the apron into alignment with the
>fenders.  I finish tightening all the bolts and it is done.
>
>Best regards,
>Tom
>


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Mar  1 09:46:55 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 08:46:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] GPS -
In-Reply-To: <030120081543.29222.47C979A2000018210000722622007621949D0A089C020E009B@com
	cast.net>
References: <030120081543.29222.47C979A2000018210000722622007621949D0A089C020E009B@com
	cast.net>
Message-ID: <p06240801c3ef384c2468@[98.224.7.170]>

This is of interest to us  also, we will be visiting England in 
September, Ms Garmin (Nuvi  200) will accept a  UK "chip", so before 
I purchase, it would be nice to know if it works, most of our 
driving will be around the Plymouth area.

ps:  Mr Jonmac ... I still need an address to send  our contribution 
for  your Trust ...


>John, When Jere and I were visiting you last year, we had his GPS 
>with us. We tried to use it once near the British Codes Museum and 
>found it worthless. I had asked the list before we went and the 
>condenses was that they were of little help in the UK. Jere did get 
>the proper maps, etc. Anyway, have things improved? Is it just good 
>in London?
>Inquiring minds want to know. 
>Thanks again for the great time we had last year  -- snow and all.
>Tom


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar  1 10:34:40 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 09:34:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] Nexen Tires
In-Reply-To: <200803011206.03342.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <20080301173441.YIHS10598.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> Just saw this on ebay. Nexen tires 165/15 2 for 96$.
> 
> Anyone ever heard of this make?

I hadn't, but some quick Googling turns up the reason why.  They started as
a small Korean tire maker and only recently expanded; building a plant in
China to sell tires on the global market.
Eg,
http://tinyurl.com/ynuzyu

Might be fine, but with the recent Chinese tire recall (along with all the
other dangerously defective products from China that have made the news
recently), I think I'll let someone else try them first.

And from what I've heard, although they are in short supply, orders for the
Kumho 165/15 tires (at $78 a pair) are being filled.  Kumho is building a
new plant in the US, which should be online by next year, hopefully ending
the shortage.

Randall

From agraham at execulink.com  Sat Mar  1 10:40:24 2008
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2008 12:40:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hello to list
Message-ID: <200803011744.m21Hi7Ye003294@smtp2.execulink.net>

Just wanted to say a hello to the list members. Just re-joined after 
an absence of over a couple of years as other matters took me away 
from my TR2 project. Good to see so many familiar names still 
providing invaluable advice.
Starting final re-assembly of the TR2 this spring (when I hope it 
finally gets warm enough to use the garage!). Will undoubtedly call 
upon the collective wisdom of the list to "refresh" my memory on just 
how those parts were supposed to go back together.
Thanks in advance,
Angelo Graham
'55 (?) TR2, TS4928LO
Waterloo, Ont.
Canada

From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Sat Mar  1 11:24:22 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 10:24:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] GPS -
Message-ID: <530472.23477.qm@web52209.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Driving around England isnt to hard.  besides any directions and roads prob havent changed in a few 100 yrs so the chips prob fine.
just remember a few things...  they do use MPH;  remember which side of the road you should be on and Beware of the round abouts!
 
(I would highly suggesting seeing Salisbury)
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com
 



----- Original Message ----
From: Bill & AnnaBelle <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: tfansher at comcast.net; John Macartney <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, March 1, 2008 11:46:55 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] GPS -

This is of interest to us  also, we will be visiting England in 
September, Ms Garmin (Nuvi  200) will accept a  UK "chip", so before 
I purchase, it would be nice to know if it works, most of our 
driving will be around the Plymouth area.

ps:  Mr Jonmac ... I still need an address to send  our contribution 
for  your Trust ...


>John, When Jere and I were visiting you last year, we had his GPS 
>with us. We tried to use it once near the British Codes Museum and 
>found it worthless. I had asked the list before we went and the 
>condenses was that they were of little help in the UK. Jere did get 
>the proper maps, etc. Anyway, have things improved? Is it just good 
>in London?
>Inquiring minds want to know. 
>Thanks again for the great time we had last year  -- snow and all.
>Tom


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as douglashansen at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Mar  1 12:13:54 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 14:13:54 EST
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 98
Message-ID: <bd6.2944f428.34fb04f2@cs.com>

Welcome back Angelo!

BTW, We will be going to Mosport in June.

Regards from near your 'Sister City' in Iowa.

Joe A   </HTML>

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Mar  1 18:01:13 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 20:01:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor for a '60-'61 TR3?
Message-ID: <00c701c87c00$e9b07900$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

 Would someone educate me as to why there is oxygen sensor that is marketed
just for a '60-'61 TR3?

      I think I'm right in saying that these were installed in post 1980
vehicles.  If installed in the TR, it proably would have to go in tailpipe
somewhere, right?  And be used to hook up to a gauge or a computer to tell you
how efficiently your  SU carbs were.  What setting would be altered to adjust
this efficiency?  Is this something just for racecars?

      Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sat Mar  1 18:36:12 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 18:36:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor for a '60-'61 TR3?
In-Reply-To: <00c701c87c00$e9b07900$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00c701c87c00$e9b07900$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <9851190322D54AA180A25EFD094E1331@GeoPC>

Did you see this on eBay?  I think I did.  The answer is they are listing 
the same part many times over as being for any make/model they can think of.

There are some specialized applications where folks have used O2 sensors in 
the manifold etc but I don't think that is where you're headed.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 6:01 PM
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor for a '60-'61 TR3?


> Would someone educate me as to why there is oxygen sensor that is marketed
> just for a '60-'61 TR3? 

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sat Mar  1 18:55:42 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 20:55:42 EST
Subject: [TR] Nexen Tires
Message-ID: <d07.282024f3.34fb631e@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/1/2008 11:21:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

Just saw  this on ebay. Nexen tires 165/15 2 for 96$.

Anyone ever heard of this  make?

Seems too good to be true.

Item #  140211793730







can't tell how good it is without the UTQG tread wear, traction and temp  
ratings - I'd ask for those - might be a reason why they aren't given 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From mathews at uga.edu  Sat Mar  1 19:07:40 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2008 21:07:40 -0500
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor for a '60-'61 TR3?
In-Reply-To: <00c701c87c00$e9b07900$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00c701c87c00$e9b07900$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080302020753.B515B187656@autox.team.net>

I've seen some apps where O2 sensors are added to older cars 
to  "fine" tune the tuning!

Doug

At 08:01 PM 3/1/2008, you wrote:
>  Would someone educate me as to why there is oxygen sensor that is marketed
>just for a '60-'61 TR3?
>
>       I think I'm right in saying that these were installed in post 1980
>vehicles.  If installed in the TR, it proably would have to go in tailpipe
>somewhere, right?  And be used to hook up to a gauge or a computer to tell you
>how efficiently your  SU carbs were.  What setting would be altered to adjust
>this efficiency?  Is this something just for racecars?
>
>       Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3
>_______________________________________________

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Mar  1 20:43:10 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 22:43:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor for a '60-'61 TR3?
In-Reply-To: <00c701c87c00$e9b07900$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00c701c87c00$e9b07900$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <000801c87c17$8b399d40$210110ac@bobspc>

Paul,
ISTR that you can get a gauge that lets you monitor the air/fuel ratio when
you have the 02 sensor. Beyond that, there are others far smarter then me
who can tell you what that means. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dorpaul
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 8:01 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor for a '60-'61 TR3?

 Would someone educate me as to why there is oxygen sensor that is marketed
just for a '60-'61 TR3?

      I think I'm right in saying that these were installed in post 1980
vehicles.  If installed in the TR, it proably would have to go in tailpipe
somewhere, right?  And be used to hook up to a gauge or a computer to tell
you how efficiently your  SU carbs were.  What setting would be altered to
adjust this efficiency?  Is this something just for racecars?

      Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
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6:32 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.2/1305 - Release Date: 2/29/2008
6:32 PM

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar  1 23:01:54 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 23:01:54 -0700
Subject: [TR] Nexen Tires
In-Reply-To: <d07.282024f3.34fb631e@aol.com>
References: <d07.282024f3.34fb631e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001b01c87c2a$eb8bd6a0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

I found an example at tires-easy.com, for a 165/80-15 they rate it 320AB
priced at $40.20.  They also have the Federal and Khumho(400AB) in this size
for a little less $$.

Here is a link to the page:

http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/details.pl?ID=shoppingcom_Kumho&Country=US&typ=
R-137803&shop


Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
McGaheyRx at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 6:56 PM
To: yellowtr at adelphia.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Nexen Tires

In a message dated 3/1/2008 11:21:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

Just saw  this on ebay. Nexen tires 165/15 2 for 96$.

Anyone ever heard of this  make?

Seems too good to be true.

Item #  140211793730







can't tell how good it is without the UTQG tread wear, traction and temp
ratings - I'd ask for those - might be a reason why they aren't given 
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-du
ffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Mar  2 06:41:25 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 08:41:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] Clutch M/C Impact
Message-ID: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc>

When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark gray/black
gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install a new clutch M/C with the
Toyota 5 speed installation and wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C with a
.75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 bore? And what
would the impact be on clutch feel which will now have an hydraulic throw
out bearing? Would it make it feel lighter or heavier? And I'll also check
with Herman in case it impacts the tranny install.
 
Thanks
 
Bob
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008
5:41 PM

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Mar  2 07:31:45 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 09:31:45 -0500
Subject: [TR] wheel skins
Message-ID: <200803020931.46245.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Installed my wheel skin steering wheel cover last week on the 63 TR4 and I 
must say the fit was perfect, snug and the feel is just great. It did take 
some time though.

Thanks to all who pointed me in this direction.

I am ordering one for the 3 since its cover is old and cracked.

If anyone else needs a real nice leather cover, here is the link:

http://www.wheelskins.com/index.php

Bob

From triosan at gmail.com  Sun Mar  2 09:12:07 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 08:12:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact
In-Reply-To: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803020812j5db3384fn9d75e25cb76b9909@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
I used a Tilton .75" clutch MC with the Herman 5 speed and linear throwout
bearing.  Worked just fine.  Be real sure to follow his directions on how
much [little] clutch travel you need to work the bearing -- too much ruins
it.

On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 5:41 AM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
wrote:

> When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark gray/black
> gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install a new clutch M/C with
> the
> Toyota 5 speed installation and wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C with a
> .75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 bore? And what
> would the impact be on clutch feel which will now have an hydraulic throw
> out bearing? Would it make it feel lighter or heavier? And I'll also check
> with Herman in case it impacts the tranny install.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008
> 5:41 PM
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Sun Mar  2 09:46:05 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 11:46:05 EST
Subject: [TR] wheel skins
Message-ID: <bfb.2ef3a47e.34fc33cd@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/2/2008 6:51:37 A.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

Installed my wheel skin steering wheel cover last week on the 63 TR4  and I 
must say the fit was perfect, snug and the feel is just great. It  did take 
some time though.





Nothing against wheelskin, but if you belong to the "we cheap" club like  me, 
the ones from Pep Boys at half the price or less look pretty good.  It  does 
take a while as you are sewing it on rather than lacing like the vinyl  covers.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven  of the shop manual.



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  2 10:06:47 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 17:06:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] Clutch M/C Impact
In-Reply-To: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W35B4900A819264039D7E8DE5160@phx.gbl>

When I installed my Tilton HTOB I also installed their short length
recommended 5/8" clutch master cylinder.  It fits the TR mounts perfectly and
is very reasonable on the foot pressure.  The system has worked extremely
well.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 08:41:25 -0500
> Subject: [TR] Clutch M/C Impact
>
> When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark gray/black
> gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install a new clutch M/C with the
> Toyota 5 speed installation and wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C with a
> .75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 bore? And what
> would the impact be on clutch feel which will now have an hydraulic throw
> out bearing? Would it make it feel lighter or heavier? And I'll also check
> with Herman in case it impacts the tranny install.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008
> 5:41 PM

_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star
power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar  2 11:12:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 10:12:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] Clutch M/C Impact
In-Reply-To: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <20080302181217.PWMO4595.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark 
> gray/black gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install 
> a new clutch M/C

Just a thought : a rebuild kit is a lot cheaper and if the original bore is
in good shape, just as good as a new one.

> wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C with a
> .75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 
> bore?

It's actually a common retrofit, to band-aid "not enough travel" problems.

> And what would the impact be on clutch feel which will 
> now have an hydraulic throw out bearing? Would it make it 
> feel lighter or heavier?

Normally, the larger MC would make the pedal heavier (though not enough to
be objectionable, IMO, unless there's something wrong with your left leg).
However, the hydraulic TOB is supposedly lighter than the stock setup, so
the end result would probably be about the same.
 
> And I'll also check with Herman in 
> case it impacts the tranny install.

Info on how to avoid over-stroking the hydraulic TOB should be included in
Herman's instructions.  Necessary even with the .70 MC.

Randall

From technical-iwnet at onwight.net  Sun Mar  2 11:35:33 2008
From: technical-iwnet at onwight.net (Graham Stretch)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 18:35:33 -0000
Subject: [TR] Nexen Tires
References: <200803011206.03342.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <003101c87c94$33503e40$0601a8c0@Zebu>

Hi Bob
I just fitted some Nexans to my BMW work car, seem good didn't need huge 
amounts of weights as some cheaper tyres do. Cant tell you how they will 
last but they do seem to grip both wet and dry.  Someone says about the wear 
rating, that is ok but I had a 2500 S Saloon that came with Firestone 
(F550?) tyres and I could spin the wheels at every start in the dry with 
only moderate throttle, so long wear aint everything! Those Firestones were 
truly road resistant tyres, threw them away as I couldn't wear them out!

Graham.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: "Triumph Email List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 5:06 PM
Subject: [TR] Nexen Tires


> Hello,
>
> Just saw this on ebay. Nexen tires 165/15 2 for 96$.
>
> Anyone ever heard of this make?
>
> Seems too good to be true.
>
> Item # 140211793730
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as technical-iwnet at onwight.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1301 - Release Date: 
> 27/02/2008 08:35

From technical-iwnet at onwight.net  Sun Mar  2 11:54:30 2008
From: technical-iwnet at onwight.net (Graham Stretch)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 18:54:30 -0000
Subject: [TR] Axle Lube
References: <000101c878e4$6f198840$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <007e01c87c96$d8d2a040$0601a8c0@Zebu>

Hi Bob
This may be too late to help you if you have already done them, but I have 
always used a Graphite grease, the original Triumph stuff was more like a 
Graphite oil about the consistency of molasses from memory, but is NLA, I 
know some people use CV joint grease as that is for Extreme Pressure 
applications, I think White lithium might not be high enough Extreme 
Pressure rated.
Also I drilled the internal splined body and tapped it for a grease nipple 
so that once or twice a year I can refresh the grease with a couple of 
squirts from the gun, I have found this to help with reducing spline lock. 
About every third application I have to release the tie on the rubber boot 
and squeeze some old grease out in to a rag to stop the balloon like 
appearance from causing it to burst!!

Graham.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "'Six Pack'" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 1:59 AM
Subject: [TR] Axle Lube


> Before I put the rear axles back in the car, what is the best lube/grease 
> to
> use on the sliding splines? There's something in there now but it's so old
> and gummy, I can't tell what it is.........and Haynes doesnt even mention
> anything.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob (with lots of questions as he starts putting stuff back ON his car!)
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1298 - Release Date: 2/25/2008
> 8:45 PM
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as technical-iwnet at onwight.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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08:35

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Sun Mar  2 14:24:22 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 16:24:22 EST
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
Message-ID: <cdd.24ef136d.34fc7506@aol.com>

I've been catching snatches of the trailer for this moving all weekend.  
Anybody seen it and can you confirm if that is a Stag they are wrecking in one  
scene?
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven  of the shop manual.



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Sun Mar  2 14:25:53 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 16:25:53 EST
Subject: [TR] TR1800
Message-ID: <c57.2972137c.34fc7561@aol.com>

There's an 1800 body and frame for sale on Ebay under "other" makes that  
doesn't look like it will make reserve.  Sale is over in 4 hours.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven  of the shop manual.



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Mar  2 15:20:15 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 15:20:15 -0700
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
In-Reply-To: <cdd.24ef136d.34fc7506@aol.com>
References: <cdd.24ef136d.34fc7506@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47CB281F.1000106@tscusa.org>

BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:
> I've been catching snatches of the trailer for this moving all weekend.  
> Anybody seen it and can you confirm if that is a Stag they are wrecking in one  
> scene?
>  
> Robert B.  Houston
> Texan in New Mexico
>   
The dark colored sedan sliding in front of a van?  That is a T2500PI 
Police model. 

Maybe a link to another view?

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Mar  2 15:23:29 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 22:23:29 -0000
Subject: [TR] GPS 12v power
Message-ID: <01fa01c87cb4$0b36aff0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Without hacking this thread to death, its perfectly logical to install a 12v supply - and keep 
within originality issues. What many tend to forget is that TR6 and before, the number of people who 
smoked were far in excess of those who (like me) still indulge the habit today. I've always had a 
cigar lighter in all my cars and on the Triumphs, if they weren't fitted as standard, one was always 
fitted with its right-angled bracket to the base of the instrument panel. IMHO, you could do the 
same and not suffer judge penalty points. You're just using the power source for a GPS and not 
lighting your cigar(ettes)

My 2 pee's worth

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Mar  2 16:36:00 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 18:36:00 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact
In-Reply-To: <21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>
References: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of
	Sun, 2 Mar 2008 08:41:25 -0500
	<21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <000301c87cbe$2ea45050$210110ac@bobspc>

Dick,
I've been searching through my old email because last year I traded emails
with list member, Mike Denman, who used a different M/C to get the lighter
clutch feel his wife wanted. I just found the email. Here it is:

"Herman said that several customers had already experimented with changing
the master cylinders and he had heard that they were happier with the final
result. With that information I contacted Apple Hydraulics (copy of the
actual email below). Lazar of Apple Hydraulics quickly responded with some
information to help me select the right master cylinder. I ordered and
installed the 5/8 bore master cylinder from an Austin Healey 3000 and am
very happy with it. The clutch pedal effort is reduced and the additional
movement required at the clutch pedal gives the engagement more "feel" and
is less abrupt. The installation of the new master cylinder looks exactly
like the original. Installation is no different that replacing a bad master
cylinder with a stock master cylinder. "

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] 
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 3:43 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact

Bob---There is no reason why the .75 CMC wouldn't work with the hydraulic
t/o bearing and the 5 speed. We know that the (heavier
feel).75 bore pushes more fluid down the pipe, but this is not needed with
the hydraulic t/o. In fact, if one had a mind to, an even smaller than the
.70 bore would be nice. This would mean finding a CMC with such a bore, and
piping it in.

The hydraulic clutch setup only uses a partial clutch pedal depression to
release the clutch, and this is why there is a "pedal stop bolt" with
Herman's kit. A CMC with a smaller bore would mean a lighter clutch feel,
and with plenty of pedal to activate the clutch, this might be welcome for
some owner/drivers. 

I find that the .70 bore with the hydraulic clutch has a slightly lighter
feel than when the stock linkage was used to activate the clutch. Less pedal
drag from eliminating all of the linkage friction would be my guess as to
why that it.



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From BearTranserv at aol.com  Sun Mar  2 18:09:10 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 20:09:10 EST
Subject: [TR] GPS 12v power
Message-ID: <c29.2e770763.34fca9b6@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/2/2008 3:26:01 P.M. Mountain Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

What  many tend to forget is that TR6 and before, the number of people who  
smoked were far in excess of those who (like me) still indulge the habit  
today.



 
 
We were cleaning out a closed the other day and ran into some old mid 60's  
Playboys from my youth.  Every other add was for cigars or pipe  tobacco.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as described in chapter seven  of the shop manual.



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From 6parts at charter.net  Sun Mar  2 18:43:01 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 20:43:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Rheostat repair
Message-ID: <008b01c87ccf$eaefaeb0$6e12b318@alan>

I know somewhere there's listed a repair for the dash light rheostat. Besides
bypassing it.

i can't seem to locate it.  Anybody know what web site its located on?

Thanks

Al

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Mar  2 20:29:13 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 22:29:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Rheostat repair
In-Reply-To: <008b01c87ccf$eaefaeb0$6e12b318@alan>
References: <008b01c87ccf$eaefaeb0$6e12b318@alan>
Message-ID: <000001c87cde$c3238cd0$210110ac@bobspc>

Al,
It might be mine http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/rheostat.htm though I ended
up deciding to just bypass the darn thing! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alan Salvatore
Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 8:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Rheostat repair

I know somewhere there's listed a repair for the dash light rheostat.
Besides bypassing it.

i can't seem to locate it.  Anybody know what web site its located on?

Thanks

Al
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Sun Mar  2 22:19:16 2008
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 00:19:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires
Message-ID: <fac10b170803022119v70da945ci33a7139e9fe0752d@mail.gmail.com>

I have Nexen tires on my VW camper. It takes a hard to find tire - although
Hankook makes one for that application, they aren't sold here in Canada.
They were a competitive price, and on installation, the ride was noticeably
improved, albeit it was from very bad.
They did take a lot of weights to balance, and I subsequently saw a comment
posted on the VW type 2 bulletin board that someone else had put some on
their pickup truck and they wore out in 7000 miles.
However, it will be many years before I go that far in that vehicle so it
doesn't worry me. Also, I have to believe it was an extreme case.
I do believe I saw where they were NOT part of the Chinese tire recall
thing.
Jim
=======================
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 12:06:02 -0500
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>

Hello,

Just saw this on ebay. Nexen tires 165/15 2 for 96$.
Anyone ever heard of this make?
Seems too good to be true.
Item # 140211793730

Bob

From thomas309 at aol.com  Sun Mar  2 23:08:09 2008
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 01:08:09 EST
Subject: [TR] 1959 Morris Minor - NFI
Message-ID: <c36.24e8d004.34fcefc9@aol.com>

This on Rhode Island craigslist, not mine, NFI. Tom
 
_http://providence.craigslist.org/car/593502348.html_ 
(http://providence.craigslist.org/car/593502348.html) 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Mar  3 04:58:33 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 06:58:33 EST
Subject: [TR] Body Solder
Message-ID: <d1f.1d00bf43.34fd41e9@aol.com>

A PO of my 3A brazed a few small mild steel patches that are  acceptable.  I 
need to do some metal fill at the edge of one of the patches  and am hesitant 
to braze as I am afraid that the heat will cause the existing  braze to let 
go.  Does anyone know if tin/copper lead free solder on a  roll (plumbing) with 
no flux core is the same that is sold as lead free body  solder?  I don't need 
much so I am not too excited about buying body  solder.
Body filller is not an acceptable soluton as there are pin holes that  need 
to be filled and I do not like to fill holes with filler.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Mar  3 06:36:47 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 08:36:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Body Solder
In-Reply-To: <d1f.1d00bf43.34fd41e9@aol.com>
References: <d1f.1d00bf43.34fd41e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200803030836.49073.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 03 March 2008 06:58 am, DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> A PO of my 3A brazed a few small mild steel patches that are  acceptable. 
> I need to do some metal fill at the edge of one of the patches  and am
> hesitant to braze as I am afraid that the heat will cause the existing 
> braze to let go.  Does anyone know if tin/copper lead free solder on a 
> roll (plumbing) with no flux core is the same that is sold as lead free
> body  solder?  I don't need much so I am not too excited about buying body 
> solder.
> Body filller is not an acceptable soluton as there are pin holes that  need
> to be filled and I do not like to fill holes with filler.
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
David,

Here is a link to eastwood's product.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=14770&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=14770

I went with the lead/tin product with great results. This wasnt available a 
few years ago.

THey have a whole line of body solder stuff.

Bob

From grandfatherjim at gmail.com  Mon Mar  3 06:39:42 2008
From: grandfatherjim at gmail.com (Jim Wallace)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 08:39:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires
In-Reply-To: <fac10b170803022119v70da945ci33a7139e9fe0752d@mail.gmail.com>
References: <fac10b170803022119v70da945ci33a7139e9fe0752d@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <fac10b170803030539l4467f6c2rf4d82f6deb5b19ad@mail.gmail.com>

Wow I blew it on this one; sorry......I DON'T have Nexen tires!
I was going to get some, but at the last minute switched to Triangle tires
(yes they are round), and my comments below apply to those.
Where oh where has my mind gone........
Jim
===============================
On Mon, Mar 3, 2008 at 12:19 AM, Jim Wallace <grandfatherjim at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have Nexen tires on my VW camper. It takes a hard to find tire -
> although Hankook makes one for that application, they aren't sold here in
> Canada.
> They were a competitive price, and on installation, the ride was
> noticeably improved, albeit it was from very bad.
> They did take a lot of weights to balance, and I subsequently saw a
> comment posted on the VW type 2 bulletin board that someone else had put
> some on their pickup truck and they wore out in 7000 miles.
> However, it will be many years before I go that far in that vehicle so it
> doesn't worry me. Also, I have to believe it was an extreme case.
> I do believe I saw where they were NOT part of the Chinese tire recall
> thing.
> Jim
> =======================
> Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 12:06:02 -0500
> From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> Just saw this on ebay. Nexen tires 165/15 2 for 96$.
> Anyone ever heard of this make?
> Seems too good to be true.
> Item # 140211793730
>
> Bob

From spitlist at cox.net  Mon Mar  3 07:20:09 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 07:20:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Body Solder
References: <d1f.1d00bf43.34fd41e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001901c87d39$b0053bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Applying lead body filler is an art in itself and requires a lot of practice
to get it right.  If you are a patient man you can probably master it, but
if you only have one project, why do it.  If you refuse to use plastic body
filer (which is perfectly aceptable these days as long as you don't use
thick layers to cover damage) then your only choice is to learn the art of
take the car to a shop that has a body man who has learned the art.

Good Luck,
Joe
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 4:58 AM
Subject: [TR] Body Solder


> A PO of my 3A brazed a few small mild steel patches that are  acceptable.
I
> need to do some metal fill at the edge of one of the patches  and am
hesitant
> to braze as I am afraid that the heat will cause the existing  braze to
let
> go.  Does anyone know if tin/copper lead free solder on a  roll (plumbing)
with
> no flux core is the same that is sold as lead free body  solder?  I don't
need
> much so I am not too excited about buying body  solder.
> Body filller is not an acceptable soluton as there are pin holes that
need
> to be filled and I do not like to fill holes with filler.
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
> **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
>
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-du
ffy/
> 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Mon Mar  3 07:57:23 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 06:57:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] GPS systems (non-Triumph)
Message-ID: <887053.71419.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

For what it's worth, I purchased a Garmin GPS system for my father for his birthday.  When he and my mother then went to Europe for a driving vacation he purchased the European road map plug-and-play chip for an additional $200+.  Plug and play my butt.  Although it's supposed to be simple, you don't know if it even works at all until you actually get to Europe and turn it on.  Bad chip - it could never acquire the signal.  So for three weeks they had to lug this thing around the continent constantly reminded that it sucked.   
 
But the story gets better...
 
When they get back I tried to return it to where I purchased it - Buy.com.  I didn't want it exchanged or fixed as the trip was over and the chip useless.  Nope.  Their return policy is good for a measly 14 days!  Their customer service is the worst.  They only deal in e-mails (no phones), couldn't comprehend or begin to understand the situation, and just keep pointing to their return policy.  I took it as high up the food chain as I could (a lost in translation nightmare BTW), then disputed it with my credit card company.  They did fight the good fight, but in the end Buy.com wouldn't budge.  
 
Two NO votes for Garmin and Buy.com.  Food for thought.
 
Joe Merone
CF18928 5-speed

 


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  3 09:42:14 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 08:42:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] GPS systems (non-Triumph)
In-Reply-To: <887053.71419.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <887053.71419.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2a3a01c87d4d$890ec720$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

>  Bad chip - it could never acquire the 
> signal. 

FWIW, it probably was not the chip's fault.  The GPS satellites are the same
all over the world, so the chip would have only contained the maps for
Europe, nothing to do with tracking GPS satellites.

But GPS receivers normally make the assumption that they know roughly where
they are (and what time it is), in order to find the satellites quicker.  It
sounds like your Garmin unit never figured out that it didn't know where it
was, or else has trouble with searching for satellites when time and/or
position are not known.

Disclosure : Garmin is sort of a competitor (I write high-end GPS receivers
for Deere).

Randall Young
Senior Software Engineer
NavCom Technology, Inc.
A John Deere Company 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  3 09:51:58 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 08:51:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] Body Solder
In-Reply-To: <d1f.1d00bf43.34fd41e9@aol.com>
References: <d1f.1d00bf43.34fd41e9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2a3b01c87d4e$e57cc6a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Does anyone know if tin/copper lead free solder on a  
> roll (plumbing) with 
> no flux core is the same that is sold as lead free body  
> solder?

I don't know (didn't even know there was such a thing as lead-free body
solder), but I would be very surprised if it was the same.  Ordinary body
lead is a special alloy with a large plastic range (where it's not quite
solid and not quite liquid) to facilitate working it into shape.  Plumbing
(and electronic) solder are generally alloys designed to harden quickly once
heat is removed (to reduce chances of movement during the cooling process
causing a "cold" joint that can fail later).

> Body filller is not an acceptable soluton as there are pin 
> holes that  need 
> to be filled and I do not like to fill holes with filler.

FWIW, a friend of mine used POR-15 to fill a sea of pinholes in an
inaccessible area; and reported being quite happy with the results.  Haven't
had the pleasure myself, but I'll definitely try it if the situation comes
up.

Also FWIW, I've found lead-free plumbing solder to be almost impossible to
work with on steel.  Possibly I need a different flux or something; but I
wound up using more expensive electronics lead solder.

Randall

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Mon Mar  3 11:16:52 2008
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 11:16:52 -0700
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
Message-ID: <47CC4094.2090705@shaw.ca>

I was at the theater last night and saw this trailer. I didn't notice 
the car you are talking about but did notice a red TR3. All you see is 
the boot lid and the black convertible top in the trailer.

Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet

> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 15:20:15 -0700
> From: "Glenn A. Merrell" <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
> Subject: Re: [TR] The Bank Job
> To: BearTranserv at aol.com
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <47CB281F.1000106 at tscusa.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:
>   
>> > I've been catching snatches of the trailer for this moving all weekend.  
>> > Anybody seen it and can you confirm if that is a Stag they are wrecking in one  
>> > scene?
>> >  
>> > Robert B.  Houston
>> > Texan in New Mexico
>> >   
>>     
> The dark colored sedan sliding in front of a van?  That is a T2500PI 
> Police model. 
>
> Maybe a link to another view?
>
> -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The 
> best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
> dead bugs on the windshield!

From team.net at Daveola.com  Mon Mar  3 11:26:06 2008
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 10:26:06 -0800
Subject: [TR] Scissors Lifts and Transmissions
Message-ID: <E1JWFiQ-00077e-NS@dave.getdave.com>

So - I've been thinking for some time about getting a scissors lift
that I can use in my garage - something that can lift my car up
a few feet or more to make it easier to work on.

Looking online it seems they're all about $1000, though it would
be nice to find a used one for less.

Does anyone have any experience with these?  Thoughts on good or
bad?  And what are the chances of pulling a transmission while
the car is on one of these lifts - does the lift get in the way,
or is it possible to get the tranny out.


Speaking of transmissions, I've thought about going with one
of the Toyota conversions.  What are the big advantages of
these conversions, and what's the complete cost in terms of
parts and time?

Thanks!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
------------ Apart from that, Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play? -------------

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Mar  3 12:10:55 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 11:10:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact
In-Reply-To: <21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>
References: <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
	<21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803031110g3ce9fce6m7e780b8c57de113a@mail.gmail.com>

You can certainly source much cheaper Clutch Master cylinders in bores
smaller than.07 from Tilton or Wilwood.  These bolt right up.  I use a banjo
and bolt

On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:43 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
wrote:

> Bob---There is no reason why the .75 CMC wouldn't work with the
> hydraulic t/o bearing and the 5 speed. We know that the (heavier
> feel).75 bore pushes more fluid down the pipe, but this is not needed
> with the hydraulic t/o. In fact, if one had a mind to, an even smaller
> than the .70 bore would be nice. This would mean finding a CMC with such
> a bore, and piping it in.
>
> The hydraulic clutch setup only uses a partial clutch pedal depression
> to release the clutch, and this is why there is a "pedal stop bolt" with
> Herman's kit. A CMC with a smaller bore would mean a lighter clutch
> feel, and with plenty of pedal to activate the clutch, this might be
> welcome for some owner/drivers.
>
> I find that the .70 bore with the hydraulic clutch has a slightly
> lighter feel than when the stock linkage was used to activate the
> clutch. Less pedal drag from eliminating all of the linkage friction
> would be my guess as to why that it.
>
> Dick
>
> Sender:
> Bob D. wrote:
>
> When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark gray/black
> gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install a new clutch M/C with
> the Toyota 5 speed installation and wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C
> with a .75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 bore?
> And what would the impact be on clutch feel which will now have an
> hydraulic throw out bearing?
>
> Would it make it feel lighter or heavier?
>
>  And I'll also check with Herman in case it impacts the tranny install.
> Thanks
> Bob
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From jholmgren at advertising.com  Mon Mar  3 12:22:39 2008
From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:22:39 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
In-Reply-To: <47CC4094.2090705@shaw.ca>
References: <47CC4094.2090705@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A61065712A6AC@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

You can view the trailer here:
http://www.apple.com/trailers/lions_gate/thebankjob/large.html

Needs Apple's Quicktime player - which lets you freeze-frame and slide through
the scenes slowly.

It's not a Stag but the front-end is nearly identical, there is a cream
colored TR3 (I think?) in a scene a few seconds prior and a lot of other nice
LBCs throughout the trailer: Mini's, an E-type Jag, the red TR3 Doug mentions
and probably some others I missed.

Might be DVD worthy when released so we can play "how many Triumphs did you
count?".  I'd bet it will have a pretty large listing on the IMCDB.  :)

Jim


Jim
'68 Spitfire Mk3
'75 Spitfire 1500
'77 Spitfire 1500
NASS #302
York, PA
www.littlebluespitfire.com




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Doug Hamilton
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 1:17 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] The Bank Job

I was at the theater last night and saw this trailer. I didn't notice
the car you are talking about but did notice a red TR3. All you see is
the boot lid and the black convertible top in the trailer.

Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet

The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s)
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From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Mar  3 12:28:22 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 19:28:22 +0000
Subject: [TR] Body Solder
Message-ID: <030320081928.9319.47CC51560000B25B0000246722070215730B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>

I took my TR3 to a restoration shop a year ago and the owner lets me go over every weekend to work on the car - I pay him for his time and materials and I learn as I go.  I asked him about this issue, so these comments are from a professional:
- he's never heard of lead-free solder bodywork
- he says he never uses lead and doesn't know of anyone who does these days
- unlike filler, lead will not absorb water, but water will get in and rust will eventually return
- the best remedy is to weld in a new patch

If a patch is not possible there is a gadget called a scatter-gun which fires molten metal on to a surface.  It is used when there is considerable pitting and the surface is to be re-chromed. Hope this helps.

Andrew Uprichard

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 

> > Does anyone know if tin/copper lead free solder on a 
> > roll (plumbing) with 
> > no flux core is the same that is sold as lead free body 
> > solder? 
> 
> I don't know (didn't even know there was such a thing as lead-free body 
> solder), but I would be very surprised if it was the same. Ordinary body 
> lead is a special alloy with a large plastic range (where it's not quite 
> solid and not quite liquid) to facilitate working it into shape. Plumbing 
> (and electronic) solder are generally alloys designed to harden quickly once 
> heat is removed (to reduce chances of movement during the cooling process 
> causing a "cold" joint that can fail later). 
> 
> > Body filller is not an acceptable soluton as there are pin 
> > holes that need 
> > to be filled and I do not like to fill holes with filler. 
> 
> FWIW, a friend of mine used POR-15 to fill a sea of pinholes in an 
> inaccessible area; and reported being quite happy with the results. Haven't 
> had the pleasure myself, but I'll definitely try it if the situation comes 
> up. 
> 
> Also FWIW, I've found lead-free plumbing solder to be almost impossible to 
> work with on steel. Possibly I need a different flux or something; but I 
> wound up using more expensive electronics lead solder. 
> 
> Randall 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 
> 
> You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Mar  3 12:44:35 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 12:44:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Scissors Lifts and Transmissions
In-Reply-To: <E1JWFiQ-00077e-NS@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1JWFiQ-00077e-NS@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <273A7566D5784E629459D767E0D5D78A@GeoPC>

Since (most or all) TR transmissions are pulled by moving up and out thru 
the cockpit I would think such a lift would be neither a hinderance nor a 
particular advantage for that job.  Whether using jack stands or a lift you 
still need to support the rear of the engine to undo the gearbox.

These lifts look interesting but jackstands are so versatile and leave a lot 
of area open under the car.  Things that usually find me under there 
(exhaust, drive shaft, oil pan) I see no big advantage in the scissors and 
in fact it would often be in the way.

For the gearbox I use one of these (with the ears cut off) for manuevering 
the box.  Not required but makes a solo OD install less of a physical 
challenge.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39178

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net at Daveola.com>
Subject: [TR] Scissors Lifts and Transmissions


> So - I've been thinking for some time about getting a scissors lift
> that I can use in my garage ... what are the chances of pulling a 
> transmission while
> the car is on one of these lifts - does the lift get in the way,
> or is it possible to get the tranny out. 

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar  3 13:22:35 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 15:22:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light
Message-ID: <000601c87d6c$5245df70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I've done a little bit of searching at Moss' site and cannot find a bulb
listed that will fit my TR3's dimmer-indicator light (located in the
speedometer).  A gauge illumnation bulb will not fit this thing's socket.  I
doubt a turn signal bulb will fit it?

What's a Man to do?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A  ts71k

From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Mon Mar  3 13:26:37 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 12:26:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light
Message-ID: <678485.79839.qm@web52207.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

easy.. just buy another parts car just for the bulb!   :)

is it a screw in or twist and lock bulb?
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com
 



----- Original Message ----
From: dorpaul <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: list Triumph <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 3, 2008 3:22:35 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light

I've done a little bit of searching at Moss' site and cannot find a bulb
listed that will fit my TR3's dimmer-indicator light (located in the
speedometer).  A gauge illumnation bulb will not fit this thing's socket.  I
doubt a turn signal bulb will fit it?

What's a Man to do?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3A  ts71k
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Mon Mar  3 13:31:38 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 15:31:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
References: <47CC4094.2090705@shaw.ca>
	<5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A61065712A6AC@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
Message-ID: <006301c87d6d$971bd4f0$0200a8c0@Desktop>

don't forget the orange MG GT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Holmgren" <jholmgren at advertising.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] The Bank Job


> You can view the trailer here:
> http://www.apple.com/trailers/lions_gate/thebankjob/large.html
>
> Needs Apple's Quicktime player - which lets you freeze-frame and slide 
> through
> the scenes slowly.
>
> It's not a Stag but the front-end is nearly identical, there is a cream
> colored TR3 (I think?) in a scene a few seconds prior and a lot of other 
> nice
> LBCs throughout the trailer: Mini's, an E-type Jag, the red TR3 Doug 
> mentions
> and probably some others I missed.
>
> Might be DVD worthy when released so we can play "how many Triumphs did 
> you
> count?".  I'd bet it will have a pretty large listing on the IMCDB.  :)
>
> Jim
>
>
> Jim
> '68 Spitfire Mk3
> '75 Spitfire 1500
> '77 Spitfire 1500
> NASS #302
> York, PA
> www.littlebluespitfire.com
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of Doug Hamilton
> Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 1:17 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] The Bank Job
>
> I was at the theater last night and saw this trailer. I didn't notice
> the car you are talking about but did notice a red TR3. All you see is
> the boot lid and the black convertible top in the trailer.
>
> Doug Hamilton
> 1960 Triumph TR3A
> 1963 Fiat Cabriolet
>
> The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the 
> person(s)
> or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or
> privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other 
> use
> of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons 
> or
> entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received 
> this
> email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email
> from any computer.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From wquincy at cox.net  Mon Mar  3 13:37:41 2008
From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:37:41 -0600
Subject: [TR] Brake pipe touching headers
Message-ID: <A44A71ED-230B-4779-B6BA-A26DAD1D76A3@cox.net>

Greetings Listers,

I have added stainless steel headers to my TR3A and new brake pipes.
With the bending tool I have to use,  I have a brake pipe in direct  
contact with the headers (where it attaches to the front union).  I'm  
sure this condition is not safe.
  I've been told that 1/2 inch clearance  will be OK but, I'm not  
very comfortable with that. I'm thinking about moving the union  
straight up with  3/4 inch spacer for starters.
I'd be interested in the list's opinions and experience.

Bill Quincy
Wichita, Ks.
TR3A TS69623L

From markvaden at gmail.com  Mon Mar  3 13:59:17 2008
From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 12:59:17 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rough idle tr4
Message-ID: <285b8a860803031259t6841b0e5jeb3f154fbae9545@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Everyone,

I am having problems with my 62 TR4 idling. I keep adjusting the
carbs, getting the idle perfect and everything seems fine. Than the
next time I get in the car, the car will not idle at all, so I pull
over readjust the mixture, and things are fine, until the next time I
get in the car and try to drive, and then it seems the mixture is all
wrong again.

Any thoughts,

Mark

From tfansher at comcast.net  Mon Mar  3 13:53:04 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (tfansher at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 20:53:04 +0000
Subject: [TR] Brake pipe touching headers
Message-ID: <030320082053.21704.47CC65300001890C000054C822070032019D0A089C020E009B@comcast.net>

I had the same problem with the "4 pipe" headers - I heated mine with a torch and bent the header in away from the breakline.  Another solution is to use a "two pipe" header which is more narrow at the bottom. My 4 pipe header also would rub against the frame. There are probably other solutions, but that's what I did,
Tom
60 TR3A
61 TR3A
62 TR4
73 Stag

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "William C. Quincy" <wquincy at cox.net> 

> Greetings Listers, 
> 
> I have added stainless steel headers to my TR3A and new brake pipes. 
> With the bending tool I have to use, I have a brake pipe in direct 
> contact with the headers (where it attaches to the front union). I'm 
> sure this condition is not safe. 
> I've been told that 1/2 inch clearance will be OK but, I'm not 
> very comfortable with that. I'm thinking about moving the union 
> straight up with 3/4 inch spacer for starters. 
> I'd be interested in the list's opinions and experience. 
> 
> Bill Quincy 
> Wichita, Ks. 
> TR3A TS69623L 
> _______________________________________________ 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Mon Mar  3 14:20:21 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 16:20:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
In-Reply-To: <006301c87d6d$971bd4f0$0200a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <47CC2545.4815.4EEFB5D@localhost>

On 3 Mar 2008 at 15:31, Craig wrote:

> don't forget the orange MG GT

Why not?  I would try very hard to forget an orange MG GT.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Mar  3 14:36:11 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:36:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light
In-Reply-To: <000601c87d6c$5245df70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <000601c87d6c$5245df70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <A183CC2F0B2B490B8667A640EBBDECF9@GeoPC>

Should be the same bulb as the other dash lights.  It doesn't seem like it 
to look at the socket but it screws in just fine.

The socket doesn't actually have threads, just a dimple that engages the 
threads on the bulb.

You might find it helpful to pull back on the blue/white wire a bit whilst 
threading in the bulb, this will relieve the spring pressure against the 
bottom of the bulb.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
Subject: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light


> I've done a little bit of searching at Moss' site and cannot find a bulb
> listed that will fit my TR3's dimmer-indicator light (located in the
> speedometer).  A gauge illumnation bulb will not fit this thing's socket. 
> I
> doubt a turn signal bulb will fit it? 

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar  3 14:57:15 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 16:57:15 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light
References: <000601c87d6c$5245df70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<A183CC2F0B2B490B8667A640EBBDECF9@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <000901c87d79$8b7b2f40$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Dah, Thanks!

Joke:
Q: How many Paul Dorsey's does it take to screw in ...
A: First, the list must tell him it will fit... Then, which way...Then...

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Mar  3 15:08:48 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:08:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Ballast Resistor Value
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803031408g432e02d8k82c79520cc863bb8@mail.gmail.com>

I am building a whole new system for my racer.  I have a Mallory unilyte
distributor and a crane cd ignition box and a crane heavy duty coil.  Need
to know IF I need a ballast resistor, and if so, what ohm value?  Any takers
on this one?


-- 
Chuck Arnold

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  3 15:11:57 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:11:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rough idle tr4
In-Reply-To: <285b8a860803031259t6841b0e5jeb3f154fbae9545@mail.gmail.com>
References: <285b8a860803031259t6841b0e5jeb3f154fbae9545@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2aa501c87d7b$98bf9180$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I am having problems with my 62 TR4 idling. 

That would be SU H6 carbs, right ?  My guess would be mixture jets not
centered, or possibly the pistons rubbing on the domes.  They must move
absolutely freely or it will screw up the mixture.  And the jet centering is
most critical at idle, when the needles almost fill the jet opening.

Remove the plungers and check that the pistons move absolutely freely when
you lift them, then land with a distinct click.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  3 15:16:19 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:16:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light
In-Reply-To: <000601c87d6c$5245df70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <000601c87d6c$5245df70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <2aa601c87d7c$34c91830$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> What's a Man to do?

Take a look at your owner's manual, where you'll see that the high beam
warning light takes the same Lucas 987 bulb as the panel lights, ignition
and turn warning lights.

Of course that doesn't guarantee that someone hasn't substituted the wrong
bulb holder;  in which case you're on your own.

Oddly enough I don't believe I've ever burned that bulb out ... how much
time do you drive with your high beams on ?

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  3 15:18:37 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:18:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR6 Ballast Resistor Value
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0803031408g432e02d8k82c79520cc863bb8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0803031408g432e02d8k82c79520cc863bb8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2aa701c87d7c$86d9b350$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I am building a whole new system for my racer.  I have a 
> Mallory unilyte
> distributor and a crane cd ignition box and a crane heavy 
> duty coil.  Need
> to know IF I need a ballast resistor, and if so, what ohm 
> value?

AFAIK, all the Crane CD ignitions require a ballast type coil be used
without the ballast.  Certainly my XR3000 does.  The ignition box limits the
current, so no ballast is needed.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar  3 15:19:04 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 17:19:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] size of both MC orafice's
Message-ID: <001001c87d7c$98272ca0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I've decided, after a year-or-so hiatus, to again assult my brakes.  To do it
right, I must tear out all the brake lines which I had previosly installed.

What are the size fittings on both the front and rear of the master cylinders?
You see, I ordered 2 new County Brand master cylinders and when I got them I
removed the adapters from both the front and rear orafice of each cylinder
(for some reason), then I lost them!!!!!!!!!!

I can manage to get the bolt size that they require (? 5/16"UNF on the
front-input, 3/8"UNF on the rear-output?????????????).  However, of course,
they adapt to a different thread size (which I now know to order from one of
the big 3).  What is the thread size they adapt to??????????  I assume both
the brake and clutch MCs have the same size, right????

Are  there any upcoming brake specials I should know about?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Mar  3 15:35:05 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:35:05 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Ballast Resistor Value
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0803031408g432e02d8k82c79520cc863bb8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0803031408g432e02d8k82c79520cc863bb8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803031435g4ecea9bbye57b00cc0322c9f3@mail.gmail.com>

So, I read the coil instructions -- no ballast required.  Sorry, should have
started there

On Mon, Mar 3, 2008 at 2:08 PM, Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com> wrote:

> I am building a whole new system for my racer.  I have a Mallory unilyte
> distributor and a crane cd ignition box and a crane heavy duty coil.  Need
> to know IF I need a ballast resistor, and if so, what ohm value?  Any takers
> on this one?
>
>
> --
> Chuck Arnold
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Mar  3 15:59:31 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 17:59:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR6 Ballast Resistor Value
In-Reply-To: <2aa701c87d7c$86d9b350$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C08011407@exchange.terra-incognita.net>

Hmmm, I've been using a ballast-type coil, WITH a ballast on my 700
unit. I wonder if this could be contributing to the very rough idle I've
been plagued with.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Randall
Sent: March 3, 2008 5:19 PM
To: 'Friends'; 'listTriumph'
Subject: Re: [TR] [Fot] TR6 Ballast Resistor Value

> I am building a whole new system for my racer.  I have a
> Mallory unilyte
> distributor and a crane cd ignition box and a crane heavy
> duty coil.  Need
> to know IF I need a ballast resistor, and if so, what ohm
> value?

AFAIK, all the Crane CD ignitions require a ballast type coil be used
without the ballast.  Certainly my XR3000 does.  The ignition box limits
the
current, so no ballast is needed.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Mar  3 16:13:31 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 18:13:31 EST
Subject: [TR] Body Solder
Message-ID: <c82.2753bb1e.34fde01b@aol.com>

Thanks to all who replied.  Lead free body solder is sold by Eastwood  and it 
is primarily used where you want to grind/sand as its jetsom is not (as)  
toxic.  The downside to it is that it's melt point and plastic range is not  as 
workable as lead.  
As I said in my post I have a very small amount to use as the PO brazed a  
patch in a difficult place.  I have made all the welded sheet metal repairs  in 
the area but, of course, cannot get too close as the MIG will vaporize the  
braze.  I do not have to 'work' the solder, just fill a couple of small  places 
and grind smooth.  I am going to try to solder with a high quality  flux which 
I have for brazing and see what happens.  I will let you  know.  
Thanks  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar  3 16:15:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 15:15:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] [Fot] TR6 Ballast Resistor Value
In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C08011407@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
References: <2aa701c87d7c$86d9b350$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C08011407@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
Message-ID: <2ad501c87d84$88accc00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Hmmm, I've been using a ballast-type coil, WITH a ballast on my 700
> unit. I wonder if this could be contributing to the very 
> rough idle I've
> been plagued with.

The XR700 is not capacitive discharge (CD) and DOES require a ballast when
used with a ballast-type coil.

It's all very confusing, and Crane didn't help matters by trying to make one
installation manual cover both products.

Have you tried tweaking the phasing (location of the pickup within the
distributor) ?  That was the final step to get my XR3000 running properly.
(Previous step was noticing that the rotor was whacking the pickup and
switching to a rotor without a "counterweight".)

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Mar  3 16:18:30 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 18:18:30 EST
Subject: [TR] Brake pipe touching headers
Message-ID: <d37.2629d840.34fde146@aol.com>

I faced the same thing when I put headers on my 3A.  After discussing  with 
Randall he suggested that the outcome of the experiment to see if it was OK  
may not be to my liking.  After thanking him for his injection of common  sense 
I made a heat shield that fit between the brake line and the header.   Mine 
was not touching but was 1/2 - 5/8" away.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Mar  3 17:35:11 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 16:35:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light
References: <000601c87d6c$5245df70$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<2aa601c87d7c$34c91830$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <002b01c87d8f$9b5da4e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

I purchased a new wiring harness from Moss last year for my TR3,
and the main-beam bulb holder has been changed to a push-pull bulb holder.
I didn't have that bulb either, but I did have the old harness.
I cut out the new holder from new harness and soldered in the original
holder.
This aloud me to you use screw-in type bulbs.
Ibsen
TS35658LO
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Randall
  To: 'list Triumph'
  Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 2:16 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] TR3's dimmer-indicator light


  > What's a Man to do?

  Take a look at your owner's manual, where you'll see that the high beam
  warning light takes the same Lucas 987 bulb as the panel lights, ignition
  and turn warning lights.

  Of course that doesn't guarantee that someone hasn't substituted the wrong
  bulb holder;  in which case you're on your own.

  Oddly enough I don't believe I've ever burned that bulb out ... how much
  time do you drive with your high beams on ?

  Randall
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


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From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Mon Mar  3 17:35:43 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 16:35:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Rough idle tr4
Message-ID: <378280.59128.qm@web52207.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Check your valve clearences.  it will run better when warm even if your valves are too tight.
 
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com
 



----- Original Message ----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: TR List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 3, 2008 5:11:57 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Rough idle tr4

> I am having problems with my 62 TR4 idling. 

That would be SU H6 carbs, right ?  My guess would be mixture jets not
centered, or possibly the pistons rubbing on the domes.  They must move
absolutely freely or it will screw up the mixture.  And the jet centering is
most critical at idle, when the needles almost fill the jet opening.

Remove the plungers and check that the pistons move absolutely freely when
you lift them, then land with a distinct click.

Randall
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Mar  3 19:26:03 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 21:26:03 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
In-Reply-To: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A61065712A6AC@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
References: <47CC4094.2090705@shaw.ca>
	<5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A61065712A6AC@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>
Message-ID: <200803032126.04895.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 03 March 2008 02:22 pm, Jim Holmgren wrote:
> You can view the trailer here:
> http://www.apple.com/trailers/lions_gate/thebankjob/large.html
>
> Needs Apple's Quicktime player - which lets you freeze-frame and slide
> through the scenes slowly.
>
> It's not a Stag but the front-end is nearly identical, there is a cream
> colored TR3 (I think?) in a scene a few seconds prior and a lot of other
> nice LBCs throughout the trailer: Mini's, an E-type Jag, the red TR3 Doug
> mentions and probably some others I missed.
>
> Might be DVD worthy when released so we can play "how many Triumphs did you
> count?".  I'd bet it will have a pretty large listing on the IMCDB.  :)
>
> Jim
>
>
> Jim
> '68 Spitfire Mk3
> '75 Spitfire 1500
> '77 Spitfire 1500
> NASS #302
> York, PA
> www.littlebluespitfire.com
Jim,

So far the reviews for this movie are not that great.

Looked at the trailer, seems worth watching to me.

On movies.com there was a photo of an AH3000.

Seems worth the price of a rental just to view the cars.

My wife went out and got the year 1 - 3 of the Rockford files tv show a few 
weeks ago.

Now the shows are not that bad but the old cars are something. Mostly large US 
iron, but there are lots of VW bugs, Mercedes, a few Mgs, one TR6 so far 
(Rockford hit it in a parking lot)  a few Rolls and a XKE 4.2.

Worth it for me!

Bob

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Mon Mar  3 19:59:55 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 21:59:55 -0500
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
References: <47CC2545.4815.4EEFB5D@localhost>
Message-ID: <006e01c87da4$03af7c80$0200a8c0@Desktop>

Oh good answer 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
To: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] The Bank Job


> On 3 Mar 2008 at 15:31, Craig wrote:
> 
>> don't forget the orange MG GT
> 
> Why not?  I would try very hard to forget an orange MG GT.
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From dkspence at telus.net  Mon Mar  3 23:42:42 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 23:42:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3496.1204582342.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3496.1204582342.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <EF280A35-BA19-4E35-BD50-7B4FF05BC7A9@telus.net>

OK, In no particular order, my incomplete list...

Austin Mini, land Rover, rusty XJ6 Jaguar (police car) Rover 2000  
(police car), Rolls Royce, Ford van, MG 1300, Austin Healey bug eye  
sprite, Vauxhall Cresta, TR3 X 2 (white and red), XKE Jag, Morris  
minor convertible, Morris minor woody, London Taxi (Austin?), Rover  
p5, MGB-GT, Austin Cambridge, Triumph 2500, 56 Chevrolet, and a  
massive traffic scene.  Others I could not ID.


On Mar 3, 2008, at 3:12 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Subject: Re: [TR] The Bank Job

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Mon Mar  3 23:57:59 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 22:57:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803032257590.15648@hymn11.u.washington.edu>

Hi everybody
   Here's an unusual request:  Would a few of you early TR4 owners mind going out to your car and checking the diameter of a certain hole?  Here's why:

   My TR4 has a sordid past.  At some point, it was separated from its original commissioning and body ID plates.  It currently has '4A IRS plates (and title), but it's obviously a TR4.
   I've been trying to narrow in on the body tub's original commission number using the production body change points in Piggot's "Original Triumph TR4/4A/5/6" and in the Moss Motors catalog.
   So far, I know for sure it's a '62 or a '63, because it has vertical door check straps (up to 22342CT) along with a 3-piece rear deck panel & automatic boot lid stay (from CT5643 onward).
   The only other relevant change point I could find involves the hole for the fuel tank vent, which (according to Moss) changed from 1/2" to 1" diameter at CT11664.  If this is valid, it would narrow the range down to CT5643-CT11663, or mid-1962 (my car has a 1/2" hole).
   Can anyone confirm that this is a real change point?  I would be eternally grateful if some folks on either side of CT11664 could report on the hole diameter.  The hole in question is in the right side of the boot, hidden behind the gas tank casing board, but accessible by touch (without removing the board) if you're flexible and you know where it is.  Here's a photo of mine with casing board removed:

http://tinyurl.com/36vnau

   Note that your car may have a pipe and grommet going through this hole... but I imagine you can probably still distinguish between a 1/2" or 1" hole even with the grommet in place.
   Thanks very much in advance!!  I will compile and report the results.

-Nick Wolf
Vancouver, BC
'62 or '63 TR4 (formerly '64-ish TR4)

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Tue Mar  4 04:11:42 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 06:11:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Scissors Lifts and Transmissions
References: <E1JWFiQ-00077e-NS@dave.getdave.com>
	<273A7566D5784E629459D767E0D5D78A@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <003201c87de8$871b3110$0200a8c0@Desktop>

That would be nice to use on the rear of car

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" <ahwahnee at cybertrails.com>
To: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net at Daveola.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 2:44 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Scissors Lifts and Transmissions


> Since (most or all) TR transmissions are pulled by moving up and out thru
> the cockpit I would think such a lift would be neither a hinderance nor a
> particular advantage for that job.  Whether using jack stands or a lift 
> you
> still need to support the rear of the engine to undo the gearbox.
>
> These lifts look interesting but jackstands are so versatile and leave a 
> lot
> of area open under the car.  Things that usually find me under there
> (exhaust, drive shaft, oil pan) I see no big advantage in the scissors and
> in fact it would often be in the way.
>
> For the gearbox I use one of these (with the ears cut off) for manuevering
> the box.  Not required but makes a solo OD install less of a physical
> challenge.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39178
>
> Geo
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net at Daveola.com>
> Subject: [TR] Scissors Lifts and Transmissions
>
>
>> So - I've been thinking for some time about getting a scissors lift
>> that I can use in my garage ... what are the chances of pulling a
>> transmission while
>> the car is on one of these lifts - does the lift get in the way,
>> or is it possible to get the tranny out.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Tue Mar  4 04:55:09 2008
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 03:55:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] su carbs
Message-ID: <790491.56646.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just got a set of hs6 carbs for my tr6 but am confused on how the linkage goes and the fuel lines because there's a number of outlets on the top of the fuel bowl i need any pics all help is appreciated

       
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 05:03:23 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 07:03:23 EST
Subject: [TR] su carbs
Message-ID: <d63.150c2a8f.34fe948b@aol.com>

The "fuel connection" on the left facing side of each cover is  the vent.  
The front carb has a double on the right and the rear a single  on the right.  
Fuel in to the rear connection on the front carb, out on the  front connection 
and loop over the to right front on the rear carb.  
The vent does allow fuel to spill over in flooding or excess fuel  situations 
so you want to think about how to move that away from the exhaust  manifold.  
For example the TR3 ran it into the air cleaner.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 05:52:35 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 07:52:35 EST
Subject: [TR] Body Solder Update
Message-ID: <c01.2ee4868d.34fea013@aol.com>

Well, I tried the lead free roll solder and with a paste flux it did not  
work very well as penetration and adhesion was not great.  I then used a  liquid 
flux called Stay-Clean and the solder flowed well and adhesion is  great.  The 
joint ground out to a nice feather edge.  I have a couple  of more places to 
fix and I am done.
If you are looking for a low heat solution the tin/copper lead free works  
well although it wants to be either liquid or solid so spreading is not a good  
option but for small areas it seems to be good.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From wbeech at flash.net  Tue Mar  4 08:23:53 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 08:23:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] su carbs
In-Reply-To: <d63.150c2a8f.34fe948b@aol.com>
References: <d63.150c2a8f.34fe948b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <003201c87e0b$c2aae9a0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Dave,

Thanks for the primer.  I had wondered where the overflow line was supposed
to go, onto the exhaust manifold didn't appear to be the smartest solution.


QUESTION: You said the line was originally routed into the air cleaner, but
I do not see any type of connection fitting there.  Does it just stick in
through the vent hole?  Might anyone have a picture of the proper set-up? 

Thanks,

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 5:03 AM
To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] su carbs

The "fuel connection" on the left facing side of each cover is  the vent.  
The front carb has a double on the right and the rear a single  on the
right.  
Fuel in to the rear connection on the front carb, out on the  front
connection and loop over the to right front on the rear carb.  
The vent does allow fuel to spill over in flooding or excess fuel
situations so you want to think about how to move that away from the exhaust
manifold.  
For example the TR3 ran it into the air cleaner.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From triosan at gmail.com  Tue Mar  4 11:30:39 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 10:30:39 -0800
Subject: [TR] Disparately need a part
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803041030m339b8899j9b59c643b249d449@mail.gmail.com>

I am installing a Mallory dual point distributor in my TR6 race car.  I need
to convert it to electronic from points to work with my ignition system.
The part number I need is a Mallory 560 Unilyte conversion kit.  Mallory is
out of stock and production is not scheduled till early April.  The major
parts supplier's [Summit, Jegs, Amazon, otherrs] do not have it in stock.

So -- does anyone
1. Have one they could sell/loan
2. Know of any supplier who might have it on hand?
3. Know another email list to query?

Help, help!!

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar  4 11:34:22 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 10:34:22 -0800
Subject: [TR] su carbs
In-Reply-To: <003201c87e0b$c2aae9a0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <d63.150c2a8f.34fe948b@aol.com>
	<003201c87e0b$c2aae9a0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <2c7101c87e26$5ded9f10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> QUESTION: You said the line was originally routed into the 
> air cleaner, but
> I do not see any type of connection fitting there.  Does it 
> just stick in
> through the vent hole?

Yes, it just kind of butts up against the wire mesh.  Doesn't make a lot of
difference if you have an overflow, IMO, as the excess fuel just runs
through the mesh and out the bottom of the air filter.

Sorry, I thought I had a nice photo (snagged from someone else) that showed
the original configuration, but can't find it now.  I didn't like the
thought of raw fuel being splashed around near the exhaust manifold, so on
my TR3A I had a pair of hoses that hung down below the frame rail.

Randall

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Mar  4 11:54:42 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 11:54:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803032257590.15648@hymn11.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803032257590.15648@hymn11.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <1160CEC6C15247D1B7AB74D5169DD8C7@GeoPC>

In case you do not know, BMIHT can usually produce a build cert with nothing 
but the engine number to go on.  This would give you the other numbers.

Useful, of course, only if you believe the engine to be original.  There is 
an extra charge for this sort of look-up.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number


> ...My TR4 has a sordid past.  At some point, it was separated from its 
> original commissioning and body ID plates.  It currently has '4A IRS 
> plates (and title), but it's obviously a TR4... 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Mar  4 12:33:16 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:33:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] '75 TR6 Flywheel Bolts
Message-ID: <000001c87e2e$9ce46bb0$210110ac@bobspc>

I just want to confirm that there are no lock/split washers used with the
flywheel bolts on a TR6. Also.....do you use blue or red on no thread lock?

Thanks

Bob ....just got the flywheel & PP back from the machine shop!

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 




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From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 12:36:30 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:36:30 EST
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <c41.2d669a4b.34fefebe@aol.com>

Nick,
CT 5521 LO I/2" hole. 62 TR4
CT 13917 L 1' hole. 63 TR4
Cheers,
Darrell
 



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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Mar  4 12:39:10 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:39:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] '75 TR6 Flywheel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <000001c87e2e$9ce46bb0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c87e2e$9ce46bb0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803041437540.7144@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 4 Mar 2008, Bob Danielson wrote:

> I just want to confirm that there are no lock/split washers used with the
> flywheel bolts on a TR6. Also.....do you use blue or red on no thread lock?

NO lockwashers.

I use red, aka "high strength"

I think it's #272

Use the factory torque spec.

> Thanks
>
> Bob ....just got the flywheel & PP back from the machine shop!

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Mar  4 12:41:36 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:41:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] '75 TR6 Flywheel Bolts
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803041437540.7144@isis.mit.edu>
References: <000001c87e2e$9ce46bb0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803041437540.7144@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803041441000.7144@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 4 Mar 2008, Robert Lang wrote:

> On Tue, 4 Mar 2008, Bob Danielson wrote:
>
>> I just want to confirm that there are no lock/split washers used with the
>> flywheel bolts on a TR6. Also.....do you use blue or red on no thread lock?
>
> NO lockwashers.
>
> I use red, aka "high strength"
>
> I think it's #272

Oopps - it's 271

toodles
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Tue Mar  4 12:51:01 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 11:51:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803041151010.28410@hymn34.u.washington.edu>

Hi Geo
   That is true.  The engine number is CT10205E, which does fall within the range suggested by the body tub... but several other components do not match - including the frame, with its late-style rear axle check straps (CT23383+).  The overdrive transmission may have been added as well, as evidenced by the fact that a previous owner clearly improvised an overdrive switch.  So, I'm not really sure what to believe yet.  My goal is to get as far as I can just by looking at the body tub, and then consider the bolted-on equipment (including the engine).
   The other thing I hadn't tried yet is the "body-in-white" number (stamped on a welded-on tag inside the left rear wheel well).  For those not familiar, here's a pic I saved from an old eBay auction:

http://tinyurl.com/2vqnbq

... but everything I've read says these numbers aren't very helpful, and no database exists for them (for example, see Piggott's "Original Triumph TR4/4A/4/6" pg. 119).  Is that a fair statement?  If not, I'm happy to go scrape the paint off and try to read those numbers.

   Cheers!
-Nick


On Tue, 4 Mar 2008 11:54:42 -0700 ahwahnee at cybertrails.com wrote:
> In case you do not know, BMIHT can usually produce a build cert with
> nothing 
> but the engine number to go on.  This would give you the other numbers.
> 
> Useful, of course, only if you believe the engine to be original.
> There is 
> an extra charge for this sort of look-up.
> 
> Geo
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
> Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
> 
> > ...My TR4 has a sordid past.  At some point, it was separated from its 
> > original commissioning and body ID plates.  It currently has '4A IRS 
> > plates (and title), but it's obviously a TR4...

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Tue Mar  4 13:00:02 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 12:00:02 -0800
Subject: [TR] Disparately need a part
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD6405D@kb1.mossmotors.com>

>I am installing a Mallory dual point distributor in my TR6 race car.  I
need to convert it to electronic from points to work with my ignition
system.


May not be exactly what you want, but Moss does carry a Pertronix
Ignitor II conversion for the 6-cyl dual point, 543-041.

Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Mar  4 13:10:17 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2008 20:10:17 +0000
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <030420082010.25496.47CDACA9000B6CEF0000639822092246279D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: TR250Driver at aol.com
> Nick,
> CT 5521 LO I/2" hole. 62 TR4
> CT 13917 L 1' hole. 63 TR4
> Cheers,
> Darrell

I guess there's no point in my digging into my  CT2846L.


BTW, does the car have a short-bubble hood (bonnet)?
-
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 13:21:59 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 15:21:59 EST
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <cdd.252800e9.34ff0967@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/4/2008 2:51:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
nwolf at u.washington.edu writes:

The  other thing I hadn't tried yet is the "body-in-white" number (stamped on 
a  welded-on tag inside the left rear wheel well). 


Hey Nick,
On CT 5521 LO this # is ZS 16435.  What's yours?
Curious,
Darrell
 
 
 



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Tue Mar  4 13:59:54 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 12:59:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803041259540.14269@hymn31.u.washington.edu>

Thanks to Tom Fansher and Darrell, we now have four data points for the TR4 tank vent pipe hole diameter:

CT 5521 LO:  1/2"
CT 7966 L:  1/2"
CT 11880 L:  1"
CT 13917 L:  1"

   This seems to confirm the CT 11664 change point in the Moss catalog for the grommet size (way to go, Moss!)
   Thanks again for those measurements... I really appreciate it!  Sounds like my car is a solid '62... or at least the body tub and engine are.

   The car has a long-bubble bonnet.  Assuming it's original, this would tentatively narrow the range to CT 6429 - CT 11663.  I'm making a table with the commission-number ranges implied by other components, but several of them don't agree with each other (for example, domed-glass gauges and tube-frame seats).

   I'll try to read the "body-in-white" number later today or tomorrow and go from there.
-Nick


On Tue, 04 Mar 2008 20:10:17 +0000 pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
> > Nick,
> > CT 5521 LO I/2" hole. 62 TR4
> > CT 13917 L 1' hole. 63 TR4
> > Cheers,
> > Darrell
> 
> I guess there's no point in my digging into my  CT2846L.
> 
> 
> BTW, does the car have a short-bubble hood (bonnet)?
> -
> Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
> 1994 Miata C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Tue Mar  4 14:42:38 2008
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 15:42:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine teardown
Message-ID: <FC5F7CB48A86D046B265B989D2FD435B6F0F18@uswimke-ex01.mil.acr.gmeds.com>

I  have a spare TR4 engine that I purchased on E-Bay last year.  I'm in
the process of tearing it down, with the plans to build it back up with
all the fun little retrofits and power enhancing improvements
incorporated.  There is no plan to finishing the job this year.  In fact
there isn't much of a plan.  I'm just plodding along.

The engine has been on the stand all winter, and before pulling off the
head, I removed and labeled the push rods.  I was surprised to see how
much oil  was still on the tips of the push rods, and how hard they were
to pull out, like pulling a foot out of deep mud.   I would have that
the oil would have slipped down to the crankcase by now.

Is this condition normal?  Or could this be indicative of some blocked
oil passages somewhere?


Will in Wisconsin
Powder Blue TR4




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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar  4 14:50:44 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 13:50:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine teardown
In-Reply-To: <FC5F7CB48A86D046B265B989D2FD435B6F0F18@uswimke-ex01.mil.acr.gmeds.com>
References: <FC5F7CB48A86D046B265B989D2FD435B6F0F18@uswimke-ex01.mil.acr.gmeds.com>
Message-ID: <2cd101c87e41$cd64f9e0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Is this condition normal?  Or could this be indicative of some blocked
> oil passages somewhere?

Perfectly normal.  The stock lifters are effectively cups, they have no
drain holes for the oil to run out of the hole where the pushrod end rests,
so the oil just lays there and tends to form sludge.  In fact, it can be
tricky to extract the pushrods without pulling the lifters up out of their
bores.

Randall

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 14:55:52 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 16:55:52 EST
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <c00.2ad3f5ad.34ff1f68@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/4/2008 4:00:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
nwolf at u.washington.edu writes:

The car  has a long-bubble bonnet.  Assuming it's original, this would 
tentatively  narrow the range to CT 6429 - CT 11663.  I'm making a table with the  
commission-number ranges implied by other components, but several of them  
don't agree with each other (for example, domed-glass gauges and tube-frame  
seats).




UT OH Nick,
CT 5521 LO also has a long "Power Bulge Bubble" blowing a large hole into  
Piggot's claims which are simply based on information gathered from the Spare  
Parts Catalogs which IMHO only gave vague information that you can + or -  
several hundred commission numbers. FYI it also has the sliding boot lid prop  rod 
which breaks  Piggot's rules.  I have observed several other  early TR4's 
that do not conform to the world according to Piggott.
Maverick type guy here,
Darrell



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar  4 15:09:36 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 16:09:36 -0600
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803041259540.14269@hymn31.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <003901c87e44$e6a9c220$800101df@garage.local>

i am enjoying this thread  :-).  please keep posting discoveries.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
To: <tfansher at comcast.net>; <TR250Driver at aol.com>; <pethier at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number


> Thanks to Tom Fansher and Darrell, we now have four data points for the 
> TR4 tank vent pipe hole diameter:
>
> CT 5521 LO:  1/2"
> CT 7966 L:  1/2"
> CT 11880 L:  1"
> CT 13917 L:  1"
>
>   This seems to confirm the CT 11664 change point in the Moss catalog for 
> the grommet size (way to go, Moss!)
>   Thanks again for those measurements... I really appreciate it!  Sounds 
> like my car is a solid '62... or at least the body tub and engine are.
>
>   The car has a long-bubble bonnet.  Assuming it's original, this would 
> tentatively narrow the range to CT 6429 - CT 11663.  I'm making a table 
> with the commission-number ranges implied by other components, but several 
> of them don't agree with each other (for example, domed-glass gauges and 
> tube-frame seats).
>
>   I'll try to read the "body-in-white" number later today or tomorrow and 
> go from there.
> -Nick
>
>
> On Tue, 04 Mar 2008 20:10:17 +0000 pethier at comcast.net wrote:
>> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
>> > Nick,
>> > CT 5521 LO I/2" hole. 62 TR4
>> > CT 13917 L 1' hole. 63 TR4
>> > Cheers,
>> > Darrell
>>
>> I guess there's no point in my digging into my  CT2846L.
>>
>>
>> BTW, does the car have a short-bubble hood (bonnet)?
>> -
>> Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
>> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
>> 1994 Miata C package
>> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
>> I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Tue Mar  4 15:28:19 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:28:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803041428190.25386@hymn12.u.washington.edu>

Indeed... Hence my use of the word "tentatively".  Bonnet bubbles in particular have a long history of debate on this list.  All the transition points should definitely be taken with a grain of salt.
   Does CT 5521 LO also have the 3-piece rear deck panel that (supposedly) came in with the sliding boot prop rod?  Going along the rear fender bead from taillight to cockpit, you should see either one seam (early) or two (late).

-Nick


On Tue, 4 Mar 2008 16:55:52 EST TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 3/4/2008 4:00:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> nwolf at u.washington.edu writes:
> 
> The car  has a long-bubble bonnet.  Assuming it's original, this would 
> tentatively  narrow the range to CT 6429 - CT 11663.  I'm making a
> table with the  
> commission-number ranges implied by other components, but several of them  
> don't agree with each other (for example, domed-glass gauges and
> tube-frame  
> seats).
> 
> 
> UT OH Nick,
> CT 5521 LO also has a long "Power Bulge Bubble" blowing a large hole into  
> Piggot's claims which are simply based on information gathered from
> the Spare  
> Parts Catalogs which IMHO only gave vague information that you can + or -  
> several hundred commission numbers. FYI it also has the sliding boot
> lid prop  rod 
> which breaks  Piggot's rules.  I have observed several other  early TR4's 
> that do not conform to the world according to Piggott.
> Maverick type guy here,
> Darrell

From lbc.resto at comcast.net  Tue Mar  4 15:29:57 2008
From: lbc.resto at comcast.net (Ian)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 17:29:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <003901c87e44$e6a9c220$800101df@garage.local>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803041259540.14269@hymn31.u.washington.edu>
	<003901c87e44$e6a9c220$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <000a01c87e47$47cffd10$0302a8c0@RAS>

CT 8904L = 1/2 inch.

Ian
62 TR4


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
To: <tfansher at comcast.net>; <TR250Driver at aol.com>; <pethier at comcast.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number


> Thanks to Tom Fansher and Darrell, we now have four data points for the 
> TR4 tank vent pipe hole diameter:
>
> CT 5521 LO:  1/2"
> CT 7966 L:  1/2"
> CT 11880 L:  1"
> CT 13917 L:  1"
>
>   This seems to confirm the CT 11664 change point in the Moss catalog for 
> the grommet size (way to go, Moss!)
>   Thanks again for those measurements... I really appreciate it!  Sounds 
> like my car is a solid '62... or at least the body tub and engine are.
>
>   The car has a long-bubble bonnet.  Assuming it's original, this would 
> tentatively narrow the range to CT 6429 - CT 11663.  I'm making a table 
> with the commission-number ranges implied by other components, but several

> of them don't agree with each other (for example, domed-glass gauges and 
> tube-frame seats).
>
>   I'll try to read the "body-in-white" number later today or tomorrow and 
> go from there.
> -Nick
>
>
> On Tue, 04 Mar 2008 20:10:17 +0000 pethier at comcast.net wrote:
>> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
>> > Nick,
>> > CT 5521 LO I/2" hole. 62 TR4
>> > CT 13917 L 1' hole. 63 TR4
>> > Cheers,
>> > Darrell
>>
>> I guess there's no point in my digging into my  CT2846L.
>>
>>
>> BTW, does the car have a short-bubble hood (bonnet)?
>> -
>> Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
>> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
>> 1994 Miata C package
>> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
>> I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as lbc.resto at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 15:47:05 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 17:47:05 EST
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <d08.2cfb2174.34ff2b69@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/4/2008 5:28:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
nwolf at u.washington.edu writes:

Does CT  5521 LO also have the 3-piece rear deck panel that (supposedly) came 
in with  the sliding boot prop rod?  Going along the rear fender bead from  
taillight to cockpit, you should see either one seam (early) or two  (late).



Yeah Boy It does.  So does the 63.  That's a new one for me.  Thanks I will 
look for that during any research on Early TR4's.  
Darrell



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 16:05:49 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 18:05:49 EST
Subject: [TR] Nexen tires
Message-ID: <cf7.2b2ef9c8.34ff2fcd@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/3/2008 6:40:13 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
grandfatherjim at gmail.com writes:

Triangle  tires
(yes they are round), 



Sure they are...next you'll be trying to tell us pie are square.....
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 16:16:51 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 18:16:51 EST
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
Message-ID: <c33.285924df.34ff3263@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/3/2008 12:23:27 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
jholmgren at advertising.com writes:

It's not  a Stag but the front-end is nearly identical, there is a cream
colored TR3  (I think?) in a scene a few seconds prior and a lot of other nice
LBCs  throughout the trailer: Mini's, an E-type Jag, the red TR3 Doug  
mentions
and probably some others I missed.



The Blaze MGBGT with the Webasto roof the drives in front of the  Chicken 
Inn....
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Tue Mar  4 16:32:16 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 15:32:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803041532160.25386@hymn12.u.washington.edu>

Now I'm really curious... Has anyone actually seen the fabled one-piece rear deck on a very early TR4?  It's in Piggott's book, and most of the parts suppliers show a corresponding part change, but I've been looking through photos and I have yet to see a car with one of the seams missing (and I'm not even sure which one it would be).
-Nick


On Tue, 4 Mar 2008 17:47:05 EST TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 3/4/2008 5:28:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> nwolf at u.washington.edu writes:
> 
> Does CT  5521 LO also have the 3-piece rear deck panel that
> (supposedly) came 
> in with  the sliding boot prop rod?  Going along the rear fender bead
> from  
> taillight to cockpit, you should see either one seam (early) or two
> (late).
> 
> 
> Yeah Boy It does.  So does the 63.  That's a new one for me.  Thanks I 
> will 
> look for that during any research on Early TR4's.  
> Darrell

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Tue Mar  4 16:35:52 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 18:35:52 EST
Subject: [TR] Body Solder
Message-ID: <c23.306499d9.34ff36d8@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/3/2008 4:14:16 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
DLylis at aol.com writes:

I am  going to try to solder with a high quality  flux which 
I have for  brazing and see what happens.  I will let you  know.   
Thanks  





Dave, if all else fails, use J B Weld.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From red_tr250 at hotmail.com  Tue Mar  4 19:27:26 2008
From: red_tr250 at hotmail.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 21:27:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] WTB TR3 Frame Cheap?
Message-ID: <BAY131-W1686AE333AE312FC21FDA6D2110@phx.gbl>

Hi,

Friend of mine recently bought a '60 TR3A.  I don't think he looked it over
enough.  We discovered after bringing it home & inspecting that it has a bent
frame up front.

I'm just putting some feelers out there to see if anyone has an inexpensive
frame chassis somewhere near Cincy, OH.  He hasn't checked out the cost of
fixing it, but I figured it might be just as easy to build a chassis & drop is
body on it.

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez
6-PACK Editor
CD198L
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar  4 19:54:03 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 18:54:03 -0800
Subject: [TR] WTB TR3 Frame Cheap?
In-Reply-To: <BAY131-W1686AE333AE312FC21FDA6D2110@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080305025403.TVBP4595.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> I'm just putting some feelers out there to see if anyone has 
> an inexpensive frame chassis somewhere near Cincy, OH.

Has he considered a new one from Ratco ?

http://www.rat-co.com/TRFrames.html

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Mar  4 21:03:47 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 23:03:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3a brake fitting sizes
Message-ID: <006601c87e75$ec137270$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I have searched extensively but cannot find this info on the web.

What size female fittings fit the Master Cylinders on the resevoir end of the
MC as well as the brake-line-end of the Master Cylinder's.  I am tempted to
say 3/8"-24 fit everything including the 5-way and all cylinders.  Am I right?
What about NPT or UPN or UFO?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey, '60 TR3a

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Wed Mar  5 00:24:13 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 02:24:13 EST
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <c26.2da91fe6.34ffa49d@aol.com>

wow - never saw that wheel-well tag #.. thanks!
on TR4 CT22326L that # is; ZS 44767, the frame tag (top of front crossmember)
is 'C'. Engine CT22494 E, Body tub 21591 CT.
Some of the change points as listed in Piggotts or Factory Parts Manual don't
quite jive with what my car is.. luckily this TR4 has all the factory mods
even though according to 'the numbers' it shouldn't, and I'm pretty sure no one
changed the frame and suspension before I bought it in '74.
Carl

The  other thing I hadn't tried yet is the "body-in-white" number (stamped on
a  welded-on tag inside the left rear wheel well).

Hey Nick,
On CT 5521 LO this # is ZS 16435.  What's yours?
Curious,
Darrell
**************
It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money
& Finance.
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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Mar  5 13:34:31 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 15:34:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Oil Seal Replacement
Message-ID: <003d01c87f00$52c32f30$210110ac@bobspc>

Do you always grease the outside diameter of the oil seal before replacing
it? I'm doing the rear oil seal and that's what Bentley says to do. I always
thought you just tapped them in dry and only lubed the inside diameter so it
slides over whatever easily. But then again, this aluminum housing scares me
and maybe the grease makes it less stressful....for the housing and me! :-)

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Wed Mar  5 16:07:13 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 15:07:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051507130.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>

OK, I got the body-in-white number from the mystery car (probably a mid-'62 TR4):  ZS 010966

   Here's what other people's cars show (thanks for the data!):

CT 1798 L = ZS 17010
CT 5521 LO = ZS 16435
CT 22326 L = ZS 44767

   Hmm.... I'm not seeing much of a pattern yet.
   Anybody else know their body-in-white number?  Send it in and I'll add it to the table.

-Nick

> The  other thing I hadn't tried yet is the "body-in-white" number
> (stamped on
> a  welded-on tag inside the left rear wheel well).

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Mar  5 16:57:35 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 18:57:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051507130.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051507130.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <200803051857.36861.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 05 March 2008 06:07 pm, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:
> OK, I got the body-in-white number from the mystery car (probably a mid-'62
> TR4):  ZS 010966
>
>    Here's what other people's cars show (thanks for the data!):
>
> CT 1798 L = ZS 17010
> CT 5521 LO = ZS 16435
> CT 22326 L = ZS 44767
>
>    Hmm.... I'm not seeing much of a pattern yet.
>    Anybody else know their body-in-white number?  Send it in and I'll add
> it to the table.
>
> -Nick
Nick,

Again, what is the body-in-white number? And where can it be found?

As far as I know there are only 3 numbers, the commision# on the side where 
the wiper motor sits, the body number on the other side, both aluminum plates 
and the engine # uhh on the engine!

Bob

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Wed Mar  5 16:53:29 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 15:53:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051553290.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>

Hi Bob
   The "body-in-white" number is stamped into a welded-on tag in the left rear wheel well, just behind and above the rear axle.  According to Piggott's book, they were in place before the bodies got their final paint color (hence the name).
   Here's a photo of the general area on a different car:
http://tinyurl.com/2vqnbq

and a close-up of mine after I scraped off some paint with a penny:
http://tinyurl.com/yuwbuf

   They are very mysterious.  If you ask me, it's pretty ironic that there is no database for the one ID tag that's actually welded to the body tub.  Let's see if we can fix that.  :)
   Numbers, anyone?  I don't think this is just a TR4 phenomenon...
-Nick


On Wed, 5 Mar 2008 18:57:35 -0500 yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote:
> On Wednesday 05 March 2008 06:07 pm, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:
> > OK, I got the body-in-white number from the mystery car (probably a
> mid-'62
> > TR4):  ZS 010966
> >
> >    Here's what other people's cars show (thanks for the data!):
> >
> > CT 1798 L = ZS 17010
> > CT 5521 LO = ZS 16435
> > CT 22326 L = ZS 44767
> >
> >    Hmm.... I'm not seeing much of a pattern yet.
> >    Anybody else know their body-in-white number?  Send it in and I'll add
> > it to the table.
> >
> > -Nick
> Nick,
> 
> Again, what is the body-in-white number? And where can it be found?
> As far as I know there are only 3 numbers, the commision# on the side
> where 
> the wiper motor sits, the body number on the other side, both aluminum 
> plates 
> and the engine # uhh on the engine!
> 
> Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Mar  5 17:49:14 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 19:49:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051553290.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051553290.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <200803051949.15212.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 05 March 2008 06:53 pm, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:
> Hi Bob
>    The "body-in-white" number is stamped into a welded-on tag in the left
> rear wheel well, just behind and above the rear axle.  According to
> Piggott's book, they were in place before the bodies got their final paint
> color (hence the name). Here's a photo of the general area on a different
> car:
> http://tinyurl.com/2vqnbq
>
> and a close-up of mine after I scraped off some paint with a penny:
> http://tinyurl.com/yuwbuf
>
>    They are very mysterious.  If you ask me, it's pretty ironic that there
> is no database for the one ID tag that's actually welded to the body tub. 
> Let's see if we can fix that.  :) Numbers, anyone?  I don't think this is
> just a TR4 phenomenon... -Nick
>
Nick,

I just went in the garage to see if I could see this tag and yes it is there.

But I cannot read the number as I would have to remove the wheel to get a 
better look.

The tag, as well as the rest of the car has a fresh coat of DCC and it is very 
glossy. And I am not about to scrape off that paint. 

Maybe this weekend I will be removing the tire to install the fuel pump but as 
it sits right now that might have to be delayed until spring arrives.

Same reason why I havent responded to the orignal post about the vent hole 
size. Tooooo cold !!

But I am sure that this is an all numbers match car! 

1963 TR4.

Will report hole size and all numbers when weather gets better.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Mar  5 18:46:41 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 20:46:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] VDO Clock
Message-ID: <200803052046.42320.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

I have a VDO auto clock that came with my TR3A project and I would like to 
install it in either my 3 or 4.

The clock is about the same size as any of the 4 center gauges. 

I plan to make a mount etc.

My question is: What car did this come from?

I always thought it was a Jag part but I never really looked it over that 
close.

It is a VDO 12V model Kienzle made in Germany.

I have hooked it up to 12V, seems to be + ground.

Ticks! and the light works.

Has 2 connections in the rear, 1 for the light and one (spade) for the 12V.

Has anyone else mounted a clock in their 3 or 4?

BTW dont ask, it is still winter and I am looking for car related stuff to 
keep me from going crazy.

Bob

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Mar  5 19:21:30 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 21:21:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] Paging David Beede
Message-ID: <BAY123-W27BD3D52C4513C4D08325BA120@phx.gbl>

David, you out there? contact me if you don't mind.

Marty Sukey
trmarty at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join

From spit6 at kning.com  Thu Mar  6 00:44:16 2008
From: spit6 at kning.com (spit6 at kning.com)
Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 23:44:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Axles and Front Grease Caps
Message-ID: <009c01c87f5d$e1ada9c0$a508fd40$@com>

Dear All,

 

I've recently been pushed to accelerate my project.  J

 

I've disassembled my project down to the chassis for quite some time.  I was
cleaning up the rear axles and noticed that I can't make them rotate.
They're locked.  I've removed the brake lines, does that do anything to make
them lock?  Do I need to repack the grease seal?

 

I also am trying to replace the front rotors, and I can't remove the grease
caps.  Any ideas?  I just can't get a grip on it to pull it off.

 

Appreciate it.

 

Thanks,

Kelvin

Spit6 Project

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  6 03:42:52 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 02:42:52 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Axles and Front Grease Caps
In-Reply-To: <009c01c87f5d$e1ada9c0$a508fd40$@com>
Message-ID: <20080306104253.XESH20654.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> I've disassembled my project down to the chassis for quite 
> some time.  I was cleaning up the rear axles and noticed that 
> I can't make them rotate.
> They're locked.  I've removed the brake lines, does that do 
> anything to make them lock?  Do I need to repack the grease seal?

I would guess brakes causing the lock ... but if the bearing is that bad, it
will take much more than a shot of grease to make it better.  Have you tried
backing the adjuster off all the way, and removing the drum ?

> I also am trying to replace the front rotors, and I can't 
> remove the grease caps.  Any ideas?  I just can't get a grip 
> on it to pull it off.

In extreme cases, it may be necessary to destroy the cap to get it off.  One
way is to use a center punch and hammer around the sides of it, to work it
out.  The sharp punch will dig into the metal instead of slipping off.
Fortunately new caps are not expensive.

Randall

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Thu Mar  6 05:32:50 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 06:32:50 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale, Part 2
Message-ID: <30869668.932551204806770164.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net>

Gary,
With all due respect, this is not the forum in which to advertise - commercially or private offerings - Triumph related or otherwise. There are many individuals that are directly connected to businesses, and they all refrain from any postings that may have any financial interest or bias. 

The LIST, primarily serves as a forum to promote the exchange of ideas, thoughts and knowledge - dedicated to the preservation, restoration and enjoyment of our cars - and to discuss and share information about British cars or Auto-x, racing, and related people, events, parts sources, technical info, etc. 

Please refer to the policy as post on the team.net site.
(http://www.team.net/www/corp-use.html)

If you would like to post to inform, sell or give away parts and/or cars, please list them in such forum as the Autojumble or else where as appropriate.

Corey Sherman

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Mar  6 06:06:17 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 08:06:17 -0500
Subject: [TR] Freeze Plug Problem?
Message-ID: <001301c87f8a$dfbc4090$210110ac@bobspc>

There's a metal plug at the rear of the engine, just above and to the left
of the rear oil seal housing. It looks like Moss Part# 328-225 and called
"PLUG, core, rear of camshaft". It more like an inverted metal cap that's
just pressed in place. There's no threads that I can see. The problem is
that I can easily spin it by hand. It seems to me that this would be an Oil
Seeping point. So, if I need to replace it, how do I remove it? And any
installation suggestions or techniques?

Thanks........two steps forward & one step backward.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From rickandcecilia at comcast.net  Thu Mar  6 06:16:20 2008
From: rickandcecilia at comcast.net (Rick & Cecilia)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 08:16:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Axles and Front Grease Caps
References: <20080306104253.XESH20654.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <069801c87f8c$44ce0300$6401a8c0@joshua>

I have found that if you drill a small hole right in the center of the cap 
and then take a metal screw and put it through the hole, it will go in and 
hit the center of the stub axle and force the cap off.  Sort of like a gear 
puller.  Works everytime and you can leave the small hole in the cap for 
next time.  Just make sure that the hole is ssmaller than the screw so it 
has something to bite against.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: <spit6 at kning.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 5:42 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Rear Wheel Axles and Front Grease Caps


>> I've disassembled my project down to the chassis for quite
>> some time.  I was cleaning up the rear axles and noticed that
>> I can't make them rotate.
>> They're locked.  I've removed the brake lines, does that do
>> anything to make them lock?  Do I need to repack the grease seal?
>
> I would guess brakes causing the lock ... but if the bearing is that bad, 
> it
> will take much more than a shot of grease to make it better.  Have you 
> tried
> backing the adjuster off all the way, and removing the drum ?
>
>> I also am trying to replace the front rotors, and I can't
>> remove the grease caps.  Any ideas?  I just can't get a grip
>> on it to pull it off.
>
> In extreme cases, it may be necessary to destroy the cap to get it off. 
> One
> way is to use a center punch and hammer around the sides of it, to work it
> out.  The sharp punch will dig into the metal instead of slipping off.
> Fortunately new caps are not expensive.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rickandcecilia at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar  6 06:38:12 2008
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 05:38:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051507130.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <984240.31849.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Out of curiosity, what is the significance of the "body-in-white" number?  And
why is it called that?

Inquiring minds want to know :)

Raymond Lucas Hatfield
'65 TR4A (can't remember any of the numbers on it)

--- nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:

> OK, I got the body-in-white number from the mystery car (probably a mid-'62
> TR4):  ZS 010966
> 
>    Here's what other people's cars show (thanks for the data!):
> 
> CT 1798 L = ZS 17010
> CT 5521 LO = ZS 16435
> CT 22326 L = ZS 44767
> 
>    Hmm.... I'm not seeing much of a pattern yet.
>    Anybody else know their body-in-white number?  Send it in and I'll add it
> to the table.
> 
> -Nick
> 
> > The  other thing I hadn't tried yet is the "body-in-white" number
> > (stamped on
> > a  welded-on tag inside the left rear wheel well).




      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  6 06:38:15 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 05:38:15 -0800
Subject: [TR] Freeze Plug Problem?
In-Reply-To: <001301c87f8a$dfbc4090$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <20080306133814.WTTL19560.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> So, if I need to replace it, how do 
> I remove it? And any installation suggestions or techniques?

If it's loose as you say, it will leak oil.  Best to replace it.

Usual removal method is to drive something through it (like a cheap
screwdriver) and pry it out, being careful not to catch and chip the edge of
the block.

Kind of sounds like yours was installed backwards.  When new, they are
dome-shaped.  You install with the convex part of the dome outwards, then
tap with a hammer until it's flat, which expands the edge and theoretically
locks it into place.  Normally I use a generous smear of Permatex #3 around
both the notch where it fits and the edge of the plug.  In extreme cases (eg
where the edge has been damaged), JB Weld.

Randall

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Mar  6 07:10:46 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 14:10:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Axles and Front Grease Caps
Message-ID: <030620081410.12119.47CFFB660004A3E500002F5722092299279D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Rick & Cecilia" <rickandcecilia at comcast.net>
> I have found that if you drill a small hole right in the center of the cap 
> and then take a metal screw and put it through the hole, it will go in and 
> hit the center of the stub axle and force the cap off.  Sort of like a gear 
> puller.  Works every time and you can leave the small hole in the cap for 
> next time.  Just make sure that the hole is smaller than the screw so it 
> has something to bite against.

Or use a bodyman's slide hammer.  They are cheap and available at your local auto-parts store.

I always put a little piece of tape over the hole to keep dust out of the area.



--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From pethier at comcast.net  Thu Mar  6 07:46:57 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 14:46:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale, Part 2
Message-ID: <030620081446.4184.47D003E10008A0140000105822007348309D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

Corey,
With all due respect,  I never saw on triumphs at autox.team.net the originals about which you complain on triumphs at autox.team.net.

>LIST, 

On which list did this offensive-to-you post appear?  You cross-posted it to many lists.  Did the original actually appear on all those lists?

>this is not the forum in which to advertise - commercially 
>or private offerings - Triumph related or otherwise

What is not the forum in which to "advertise - commercially or private offerings - Triumph related or otherwise?"  You don't indicate where this appeared.


Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Thu Mar  6 08:18:46 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 10:18:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale, Part 2
References: <030620081446.4184.47D003E10008A0140000105822007348309D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000801c87f9d$5fdfbab0$940a7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

This has always been MJB's rule, the lists are intended exactly as Corey 
posted, not for commercial or retail use, e-bay is available just for that.
MJB posts the rules each month, can you  just imagine 500 e-mails per day if 
this were allowed, we have parts suppliers that contribute daileyto these 
lists on answers for "How-To" and whats  part number, many thanks to Peter & 
Ted S for always beening there.  "FT"
=================================================================================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: "Corey Sherman" <cm.sherman at verizon.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale, Part 2


> Corey,
> With all due respect,  I never saw on triumphs at autox.team.net the 
> originals about which you complain on triumphs at autox.team.net.
>
>>LIST,
>
> On which list did this offensive-to-you post appear?  You cross-posted it 
> to many lists.  Did the original actually appear on all those lists?
>
>>this is not the forum in which to advertise - commercially
>>or private offerings - Triumph related or otherwise
>
> What is not the forum in which to "advertise - commercially or private 
> offerings - Triumph related or otherwise?"  You don't indicate where this 
> appeared.
>
>
> Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
> 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
> 1994 Miata C package
> pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
> I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Thu Mar  6 10:21:07 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:21:07 EST
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale, Part 2
Message-ID: <cdf.2648e378.35018203@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/6/2008 5:34:25 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
cm.sherman at verizon.net writes:

Gary,
With all due respect, this is not the forum in which to  advertise - 
commercially or private offerings - Triumph related or otherwise.  There are many 
individuals that are directly connected to businesses, and they  all refrain from 
any postings that may have any financial interest or bias.  



Gary and everyone else,  please put me on your list to notify  any time you 
have parts for sale.  One of the best things I have found from  these lists is 
the availability of parts from other hobbyist at attractive  prices.
 
Maybe we should have a code word for when we have parts to sell, trade, or  
give away.  Something like "The Cherry trees are blooming in Wahsington.  
Contact me off list for details".  Then the list Nazis would leave us  alone.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Mar  6 10:30:10 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:30:10 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
In-Reply-To: <be3.2660ea76.3500d654@aol.com>
References: <be3.2660ea76.3500d654@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W22437C8CA276DE79CC4F15BA120@phx.gbl>

Gary, I'm afraid my opinion is 180 degrees off from some others. I welcome
this sort of postings in my list in box. Id rather those who might have an
interest have a chance to know about this sort of thing. It was clearly listed
in the header what it was. If you don't care to read about it hit the delete
key. Thanks for letting us know it was available.

Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Mar  6 10:49:39 2008
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 17:49:39 GMT
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
Message-ID: <200803061049993.SM03332@[166.70.182.40]>

Marty, I'm with you on this.B  Its so easy to hit the delete button if I'm not
interested.
Brad
-----Original Message-----
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
Sent 3/6/2008 10:30:10 AM
To: gsfuqua1 at aol.com, fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net,
6pack at autox.team.net, tedtsimx at bright.net, healeys at autox.team.net,
shop at justbrits.com
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing Goodies for SaleGary, I'm afraid my opinion is 180
degrees off from some others. I welcome
this sort of postings in my list in box. Id rather those who might have an
interest have a chance to know about this sort of thing. It was clearly
listed
in the header what it was. If you don't care to read about it hit the delete
key. Thanks for letting us know it was available.
Marty
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008
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You are subscribed as brad.kahler at 141.com

From spitlist at cox.net  Thu Mar  6 11:06:57 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 11:06:57 -0700
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
References: <be3.2660ea76.3500d654@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W22437C8CA276DE79CC4F15BA120@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <007201c87fb4$de5df700$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Me Too.  As long as it is an individual doing the posting and not a
commercial venture, it is more of a service than a hinderance.

Joe C.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "marty sukey" <trmarty at hotmail.com>
To: <gsfuqua1 at aol.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
<6pack at autox.team.net>; <tedtsimx at bright.net>; <healeys at autox.team.net>;
<shop at justbrits.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale


> Gary, I'm afraid my opinion is 180 degrees off from some others. I welcome
> this sort of postings in my list in box. Id rather those who might have an
> interest have a chance to know about this sort of thing. It was clearly
listed
> in the header what it was. If you don't care to read about it hit the
delete
> key. Thanks for letting us know it was available.
>
> Marty
> _________________________________________________________________
> Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
>
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008
> _______________________________________________
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>
> Fot mailing list
> Fot at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  6 11:29:13 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 10:29:13 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale, Part 2
In-Reply-To: <cdf.2648e378.35018203@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080306182913.YOV24323.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> Gary and everyone else,  please put me on your list to notify 
>  any time you have parts for sale. 

While I had no problem with Gary's posts (which I would not classify as
"commercial"); I would like to point out that there IS a Team.Net list
specifically for such things.  It's called 'autojumble', and oddly enough is
one of the few lists I'm subscribed to that Gary didn't hit <G>

Randall

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar  6 11:45:44 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:45:44 -0600
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051553290.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <004b01c87fba$723b1b60$8d8aa8c0@garage.local>

TR2s and 3s all had body numbers.  they were on a brass (copper?) plate on 
the firewall engine side.  those numbers were sort of sequenced, but i've 
never seen any real documentation.

never seen one on a tr6.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>
To: <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number


> Hi Bob
>   The "body-in-white" number is stamped into a welded-on tag in the left 
> rear wheel well, just behind and above the rear axle.  According to 
> Piggott's book, they were in place before the bodies got their final paint 
> color (hence the name).
>   Here's a photo of the general area on a different car:
> http://tinyurl.com/2vqnbq
>
> and a close-up of mine after I scraped off some paint with a penny:
> http://tinyurl.com/yuwbuf
>
>   They are very mysterious.  If you ask me, it's pretty ironic that there 
> is no database for the one ID tag that's actually welded to the body tub. 
> Let's see if we can fix that.  :)
>   Numbers, anyone?  I don't think this is just a TR4 phenomenon...
> -Nick
>
>
> On Wed, 5 Mar 2008 18:57:35 -0500 yellowtr at adelphia.net wrote:
>> On Wednesday 05 March 2008 06:07 pm, nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:
>> > OK, I got the body-in-white number from the mystery car (probably a
>> mid-'62
>> > TR4):  ZS 010966
>> >
>> >    Here's what other people's cars show (thanks for the data!):
>> >
>> > CT 1798 L = ZS 17010
>> > CT 5521 LO = ZS 16435
>> > CT 22326 L = ZS 44767
>> >
>> >    Hmm.... I'm not seeing much of a pattern yet.
>> >    Anybody else know their body-in-white number?  Send it in and I'll 
>> > add
>> > it to the table.
>> >
>> > -Nick
>> Nick,
>>
>> Again, what is the body-in-white number? And where can it be found?
>> As far as I know there are only 3 numbers, the commision# on the side
>> where
>> the wiper motor sits, the body number on the other side, both aluminum
>> plates
>> and the engine # uhh on the engine!
>>
>> Bob

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar  6 11:57:10 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:57:10 -0600
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
References: <d1f.1d00bf43.34fd41e9@aol.com>
	<001901c87d39$b0053bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin>
Message-ID: <006e01c87fbb$e4bad300$8d8aa8c0@garage.local>

first - my apologies - i know this can be a sensitive topic - i lost my own
father last October - again my apologies i don't want to offend anyone


a recent choice for a funeral at our church was "stayin alive" by the bee 
gees

From team.net at Daveola.com  Thu Mar  6 12:57:58 2008
From: team.net at Daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 11:57:58 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive transmission in a TR3A?
Message-ID: <E1JXMHk-0005CX-CS@dave.getdave.com>

So, I need to rebuild or replace my transmission, and thoughts of
overdrive dance in my head.

There's a TR6 Overdrive on ebay.  I'm told it's possible to put a
TR6 transmission in a TR3.  Has anyone tried this, and have any
input on the difficulty of the conversion?

Also, is there any way to determine if my current transmission
is the original?  The BMIHT cert doesn't mention transmission
numbers, though the number is fairly close the the chassis #,
which makes me think it may be the original for the car:

 Car/Chassis Number  	 TS/22126-L
 Transmission  	       TS/22603

If that's the case, I suppose it would be desirable to keep
the current transmission, even if the body and the engine and
everything else is probably wrong...  :)


---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
-------------------- Self Help Wanted - Inquire Within --------------------

From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com  Thu Mar  6 13:37:32 2008
From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw at peoplepc.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 15:37:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Consumption
Message-ID: <001101c87fc9$e7621ce0$0101a8c0@w8u6d1>

My 74' TR6 consumes one quart of oil every 200 miles. My compression ranges
from 165 to 180 per cylinder.  Does this indicate that my valve guides are
worn. When I first crank the engine after it has been sitting over night the
engine does not smoke. However, when I accelerate from a stop I notice some
fumes in my rear view mirror. Thanks.

Doug Nelson
74' TR6

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu Mar  6 14:58:26 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 16:58:26 EST
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
Message-ID: <bde.2bd7e162.3501c302@aol.com>

Well Huh, since you brought that up, my choice would be "And When I  Die"  
Blood Sweat & Tears.  "Just let me go naturally" , "one  child born in this 
world to carry on" and all that rot.  I apologise  too.



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Thu Mar  6 15:26:35 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 17:26:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W22437C8CA276DE79CC4F15BA120@phx.gbl>
References: <be3.2660ea76.3500d654@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W22437C8CA276DE79CC4F15BA120@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <47D06F9B.6000605@earthlink.net>

Agreed.  It is nice to get a shot at stuff before the rest of the 
unwashed masses...


marty sukey wrote:
> Gary, I'm afraid my opinion is 180 degrees off from some others. I welcome
> this sort of postings in my list in box. Id rather those who might have an
> interest have a chance to know about this sort of thing. It was clearly listed
> in the header what it was. If you don't care to read about it hit the delete
> key. Thanks for letting us know it was available.
>
> Marty
> _________________________________________________________________
> Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
> http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  6 15:34:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 14:34:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Consumption
In-Reply-To: <001101c87fc9$e7621ce0$0101a8c0@w8u6d1>
Message-ID: <20080306223456.SILU19560.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> My 74' TR6 consumes one quart of oil every 200 miles. My 
> compression ranges from 165 to 180 per cylinder.  Does this 
> indicate that my valve guides are worn. When I first crank 
> the engine after it has been sitting over night the engine 
> does not smoke. However, when I accelerate from a stop I 
> notice some fumes in my rear view mirror.

Typically, leaking valve guides are more noticeable on deceleration.  The
classic symptom is a puff of blue each time you shift, as the momentarily
high manifold vacuum pulls more oil past the intake stems.

Hard to be sure from your symptoms, but I would be looking for oil being
carried through the crankcase ventilation system.

Does your engine by any chance have the external oil supply to the head
installed ?

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Mar  6 15:57:36 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 22:57:36 -0000
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
References: <984240.31849.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <061001c87fdd$78eac190$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Raymond Hatfield wrote:

> Out of curiosity, what is the significance of the "body-in-white" number?  And
> why is it called that?
> Inquiring minds want to know :)

As this relates to Standard-Triumph (though its the same for many other mftrs) after the body was 
made, dipped for rustproofing :) and passed off for manufacturing of the rest of the car, it was 
sprayed an 'off-white' colour. This was mainly to protect it from the elements as it was transported 
from the body plant to the main assembly plant. For Herald / Spitfire / GT6 this was about 2 miles, 
for TR about 130 miles and for all other saloons made by Pressed Steel, about 70 miles. At that 
point, the only identifier for the car was the body number and this was only superceded when the 
commission plate was fixed to the body. Thus the term 'body in white' describes a car that is just a 
painted shell, full of sharp jagged edges and the doors held shut with bits of twisted wire.

Jonmac

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar  6 15:58:29 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 14:58:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive transmission in a TR3A?
In-Reply-To: <E1JXMHk-0005CX-CS@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <20080306225829.WUHU20654.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> There's a TR6 Overdrive on ebay.  I'm told it's possible to put a
> TR6 transmission in a TR3.  Has anyone tried this, and have 
> any input on the difficulty of the conversion?

In a nutshell, as long as it's an A-type OD, then it's not hard at all, but
there are some minor adjustments to be made.  Most important will be
elongating the holes in the rear crossmember, to accommodate the additional
3/8" overall length of the TR6 box.  With such an early TR3, you'll also
need to modify the gearbox tunnel to some extent, to clear the larger
starter bulge.

My suggestion would be to rebuild your existing top (shift) cover with the
TR6 forks & shafts.  That will let you keep the TR3 shift lever and the
dipstick/fill hole.  Your old cover should already be drilled & tapped for
the OD lockout switches.

I would also suggest swapping over the front cover (where the TOB rides)
from your TR3 box.  Not essential, but a good idea IMO.

You'll need the longer speedo cable, but I wouldn't use the TR6 angle
adapter.

Don't recall for sure offhand, but you may need longer studs for the back of
the engine block, to fit through the thicker flange.

> If that's the case, I suppose it would be desirable to keep 
> the current transmission, even if the body and the engine and 
> everything else is probably wrong...  :)

It's your car, it should please you.  My point of view is that an OD is well
worth having the "wrong" number way down under the car, but that's just me.
I wound up with a late TR6 gearbox, early TR3 top cover and TR4 A-type OD
(with the big accumulator) which is about the best of all the parts, IMO.

PS, the J-type is a more difficult conversion, requiring more modifications
to the car and some fabrication.  Not as desirable, IMO.

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Mar  6 16:17:29 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 23:17:29 -0000
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
References: <be3.2660ea76.3500d654@aol.com><BAY123-W22437C8CA276DE79CC4F15BA120@phx.gbl>
	<47D06F9B.6000605@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <065c01c87fe0$4036e380$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Hmm, not too sure where I stand in all this. Clearly I have periodically 'mis-used' the lists for 
the shameless promotion of the ST book I wrote some years ago and which so many people kindly 
ordered. Obviously I should have found other methods. However a further thought occurs. As many 
know, I'm undertaking a marathon drive across the States and Canada next year in a Stag and there's 
a very definite financial interest in that. Simply, its to raise as much money as I can for three 
charities - though I'll be making nothing out of it myself, other than writing another book about 
the whole trip. I've got a financial objective to somehow raise US$300k out of the trip and many on 
the lists have signed up for periodic updates of the event website and the trip itself.
If the prime objective of all the lists is to preclude any 'advertising' in which there is a 
prominent financial motive, I'm wondering whether I should keep my updates off these lists and only 
notify those who have signed up to the "Keep yourself informed" button on the website.
I'd appreciate some fairly adjacent guidance please on how I should proceed from now onwards. I also 
apologise for having misued the lists in the past concerning my book.

Jonmac 

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Mar  6 16:21:04 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 18:21:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
In-Reply-To: <bde.2bd7e162.3501c302@aol.com>
References: <bde.2bd7e162.3501c302@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W11B467CA24CB708C8DCB02BA120@phx.gbl>

Hmmm. I want a little " 30 days in the hole" by Humble Pie. That, and Dave
Massey playing Amazing Grace on the bagpipes.

Marty



> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
> Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 16:58:26 -0500
> To: sumton at sbcglobal.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] OT - funeral music
>
> Well Huh, since you brought that up, my choice would be "And When I  Die"
> Blood Sweat & Tears.  "Just let me go naturally" , "one  child born in this
> world to carry on" and all that rot.  I apologise  too.
>
>
>
> **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
> Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Mar  6 17:11:24 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:11:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
In-Reply-To: <bde.2bd7e162.3501c302@aol.com>
References: <bde.2bd7e162.3501c302@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200803061911.25103.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Interesting subject. Must be winter somewhere.

The song that will play when they put me 6 foot under will be:

"Bygone Days" by Eileen Ivers.

Wonderful song!

Bob

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Thu Mar  6 16:27:57 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 18:27:57 EST
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
Message-ID: <c58.25daf6ac.3501d7fd@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/6/2008 6:21:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

That,  and Dave Massey playing Amazing Grace on the  bagpipes.




OH YEAH!
I want Dave Too!



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Mar  6 16:43:33 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 18:43:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] While we are on the music rant...
In-Reply-To: <c58.25daf6ac.3501d7fd@aol.com>
References: <c58.25daf6ac.3501d7fd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W324D2E8AD73C112826E6FABA120@phx.gbl>

How about the Spinal Tappets playing a little ACDC at VTR with Dave
accompanying them on his bagpipes:)

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
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From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Thu Mar  6 16:43:34 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 16:43:34 -0700
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
Message-ID: <CE042BE543C34061B73783EB30906CD9@GeoPC>

Lots of nice looking TR3s cross the block on eBay but this one, I think,
really stands out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPERB-RARE-LOW-MILEAGE-1959-TRIUMPH-TR3-TIME-
CAPSULE_W0QQitemZ170199490934QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6469QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQ
cmdZViewItem

I you believe the tale (and I see noting in the pics to belie) it is a really
remarkable example.

NFI of course.  If I had a FI in this one it wouldn't be for sale.

Geo

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Thu Mar  6 16:08:32 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 16:08:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive transmission in a TR3A?
In-Reply-To: <E1JXMHk-0005CX-CS@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1JXMHk-0005CX-CS@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <96C40989FAB34545BCD8A96F66E3CEA9@GeoPC>

I kept my original gearbox when I installed an od -- I keep it in my storage 
unit.

I don't think there is much gain in having the original gearbox adapted to 
an OD if originality is your only purpose.  Anyway -- several choices here 
depending on your skill, time and cash.

For me getting a rebuilt OD from a proven reliable source (Quantumechanics) 
made the most sense.  Though I enjoy working on the car the idea of popping 
that unit in (or should I say wrassling that unit in) and having it work 
perfectly from the get-go was very attractive.  Also, limiting the down time 
to a one-time event lasting just a couple of days was important as I need 
the car for transportation as well as fun.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net at Daveola.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 12:57 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 overdrive transmission in a TR3A?


> So, I need to rebuild or replace my transmission, and thoughts of
> overdrive dance in my head.
>
>...I suppose it would be desirable to keep
> the current transmission... 

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Thu Mar  6 17:07:31 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:07:31 EST
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
Message-ID: <d47.22f21527.3501e143@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/6/2008 4:18:10 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

I also  
apologise for having misued the lists in the past concerning my  book.

Jonmac 



Jonmac, as my dear departed mother might have said OH SHUT UP!   You don't 
owe anyone an apology and I will personally volunteer to thrash anyone  who says 
otherwise.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar  6 18:00:44 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 17:00:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
In-Reply-To: <d47.22f21527.3501e143@aol.com>
Message-ID: <78388.87949.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

i second that

BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:  In a message dated 3/6/2008 4:18:10 PM Mountain Standard Time, 
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

I also 
apologise for having misued the lists in the past concerning my book.

Jonmac 



Jonmac, as my dear departed mother might have said OH SHUT UP! You don't 
owe anyone an apology and I will personally volunteer to thrash anyone who says 
otherwise.

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Thu Mar  6 18:49:51 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 17:49:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803061749510.19504@hymn12.u.washington.edu>

Hi Jonmac
   Why the smile after "rustproofing"?  Did I miss something funny?  ;)

   Seriously though, that is a great explanation of why the body-in-white numbers exist.  Now, can you tell us anything about what they mean?  Were they sequential, or do they carry a date code, or... maybe just a string of random digits?  Do you know the meaning of the "ZS" prefix on the TR4 body-in-white numbers?
   Are there any records of these numbers?  (Piggott says no)

Cheers
-Nick Wolf
'62 TR4  ZS 010966  (missing commission number and body number)


> From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
> Raymond Hatfield wrote:
> 
> > Out of curiosity, what is the significance of the "body-in-white"
> number?  And
> > why is it called that?
> > Inquiring minds want to know :)
> 
> As this relates to Standard-Triumph (though its the same for many
> other mftrs) after the body was 
> made, dipped for rustproofing :) and passed off for manufacturing of
> the rest of the car, it was 
> sprayed an 'off-white' colour. This was mainly to protect it from the
> elements as it was transported 
> from the body plant to the main assembly plant. For Herald / Spitfire
> / GT6 this was about 2 miles, 
> for TR about 130 miles and for all other saloons made by Pressed
> Steel, about 70 miles. At that 
> point, the only identifier for the car was the body number and this
> was only superceded when the 
> commission plate was fixed to the body. Thus the term 'body in white'
> describes a car that is just a 
> painted shell, full of sharp jagged edges and the doors held shut with 
> bits of twisted wire.
> 
> Jonmac

From paulwillou at socal.rr.com  Thu Mar  6 18:58:26 2008
From: paulwillou at socal.rr.com (Paul Willoughby)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 17:58:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
References: <CE042BE543C34061B73783EB30906CD9@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <004301c87ff6$bbd6ad70$0101a8c0@paulal73q2sjay>

I guess I'm feeling cynical tonight - his description is a little too 
eloquent for me.  It reminds me of a man in a white suit selling snake oil.

But the pictures do make it appear to be a nice car.

paulw
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn"


> Lots of nice looking TR3s cross the block on eBay but this one, I think,
> really stands out.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPERB-RARE-LOW-MILEAGE-1959-TRIUMPH-TR3-TIME-
> CAPSULE_W0QQitemZ170199490934QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6469QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQ
> cmdZViewItem
>
> I you believe the tale (and I see noting in the pics to belie) it is a 
> really
> remarkable example.
>
> NFI of course.  If I had a FI in this one it wouldn't be for sale.
>
> Geo
/archive

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Thu Mar  6 19:02:23 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 20:02:23 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
Message-ID: <14488544.2525401204855343490.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>

I concur.  With only 4 sales and having an experience buying a TR6 on Ebay (and then returning it), I would really be driving to see it in person and have a major inspection of the product for that kind of dollars.

Craig 
72 Triumph TR6

From: Paul Willoughby <paulwillou at socal.rr.com>
Date: 2008/03/06 Thu PM 07:58:26 CST
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay

I guess I'm feeling cynical tonight - his description is a little too 
eloquent for me.  It reminds me of a man in a white suit selling snake oil.

But the pictures do make it appear to be a nice car.

paulw
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn"


> Lots of nice looking TR3s cross the block on eBay but this one, I think,
> really stands out.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPERB-RARE-LOW-MILEAGE-1959-TRIUMPH-TR3-TIME-
> CAPSULE_W0QQitemZ170199490934QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6469QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQ
> cmdZViewItem
>
> I you believe the tale (and I see noting in the pics to belie) it is a 
> really
> remarkable example.
>
> NFI of course.  If I had a FI in this one it wouldn't be for sale.
>
> Geo
/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From stagbytriumph at tscusa.org  Thu Mar  6 19:31:12 2008
From: stagbytriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 19:31:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <CE042BE543C34061B73783EB30906CD9@GeoPC>
References: <CE042BE543C34061B73783EB30906CD9@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <47D0A8F0.2080607@tscusa.org>

   Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote:

Lots of nice looking TR3s cross the block on eBay but this one, I think,
really stands out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPERB-RARE-LOW-MILEAGE-1959-TRIUMPH-TR3-TIME-
CAPSULE_W0QQitemZ170199490934QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6469QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQ
cmdZViewItem

I you believe the tale (and I see noting in the pics to belie) it is a really
remarkable example.

NFI of course.  If I had a FI in this one it wouldn't be for sale.

Geo

   Nice  example  indeed,  but  I must say it really looks too good to be
   true as a "time capsule".
   I  can not help thinking I have seen this TR3 somewhere before, and if
   I  had  to  guess,  that  paint appears to be pearlessent, not a stock
   paint  color in 1959. Suspension bushings not perishing in 50 years on
   the  east  coast even if it was in temperature and humidity controlled
   storage?
   The  seller  has  sold  almost a quarter million things on Ebay with a
   100% positive rating in the last 2.5 years??
   Nope, something is very wrong with this posting.
   Just my humble opinion.
   Here is a short link to the TR3 on ebay ...
   http://tinyurl.com/3dgjnd
   Glenn Merrell
   http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk  Drive Organizer
   http://www.triumphstagclub.org Chairman
   http://tiumphstag.net  admin

From stagbytriumph at tscusa.org  Thu Mar  6 19:51:46 2008
From: stagbytriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 19:51:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <001701c87ffc$261cb1c0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
References: <CE042BE543C34061B73783EB30906CD9@GeoPC>
	<47D0A8F0.2080607@tscusa.org>
	<001701c87ffc$261cb1c0$6700a8c0@Edscomputer>
Message-ID: <47D0ADC2.7080800@tscusa.org>

OOps, you are correct ...  By Bad ...

But still seems too good to be a true time capsule ...

Glenn

Ed Woods wrote:
> The seller has sold 4 things on Ebay!
>
> Ed

From pryner at verizon.net  Thu Mar  6 20:05:36 2008
From: pryner at verizon.net (Peter  Ryner)
Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 22:05:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <47D0A8F0.2080607@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <NBEEJEGGEGNFFCODHMLKEEJMDOAA.pryner@verizon.net>

What I see is that he has 4 ratings, not a 1/4 million and three were as a
buyer.  I too question the story and the pictures.  Sure doesn't look like
original paint, carpet etc. The soft stuff is just too perfect.  There is
stitching in the dash cover over the steering wheeel that is not original, I
don't know what the box is in the middle bottom of the dash is, but it isn't
the heater,  Interesting that the air cleaners are old and scratched, but
the rest of the engine is pretty clean.  There is some cracking and crazing
of the paint in the engine compartment, but the exterior is nearly perfect.
Things just don't add up.  Looks like a very clean TR, but I really doubt it
is all original and don't believe the story.  I'd have to look at it in
person before I made a bid.  Doesn't make much difference though, don't have
the tiem or money anyway.
Just my $.02
Pete

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+pryner=verizon.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Glenn A. Merrell
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 9:31 PM
To: Geo & Kathleen Hahn
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay


   Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote:

Lots of nice looking TR3s cross the block on eBay but this one, I think,
really stands out.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPERB-RARE-LOW-MILEAGE-1959-TRIUMPH-TR3-TIME
-
CAPSULE_W0QQitemZ170199490934QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6469QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1Q
Q
cmdZViewItem

I you believe the tale (and I see noting in the pics to belie) it is a
really
remarkable example.

NFI of course.  If I had a FI in this one it wouldn't be for sale.

Geo

   Nice  example  indeed,  but  I must say it really looks too good to be
   true as a "time capsule".
   I  can not help thinking I have seen this TR3 somewhere before, and if
   I  had  to  guess,  that  paint appears to be pearlessent, not a stock
   paint  color in 1959. Suspension bushings not perishing in 50 years on
   the  east  coast even if it was in temperature and humidity controlled
   storage?
   The  seller  has  sold  almost a quarter million things on Ebay with a
   100% positive rating in the last 2.5 years??
   Nope, something is very wrong with this posting.
   Just my humble opinion.
   Here is a short link to the TR3 on ebay ...
   http://tinyurl.com/3dgjnd
   Glenn Merrell
   http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk  Drive Organizer
   http://www.triumphstagclub.org Chairman
   http://tiumphstag.net  admin
_______________________________________________

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Mar  6 20:12:50 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 20:12:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <004301c87ff6$bbd6ad70$0101a8c0@paulal73q2sjay>
References: <CE042BE543C34061B73783EB30906CD9@GeoPC>
	<004301c87ff6$bbd6ad70$0101a8c0@paulal73q2sjay>
Message-ID: <005701c88001$21214410$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Pretty car, nice story.  This guy is pretty eloquent for a retired mechanic.
BTW, where are the wire wheels that came with this 'one-owner' gem? (see
bill of sale)

 Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Paul
Willoughby
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 6:58 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay

I guess I'm feeling cynical tonight - his description is a little too
eloquent for me.  It reminds me of a man in a white suit selling snake oil.

But the pictures do make it appear to be a nice car.

paulw
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn"


> Lots of nice looking TR3s cross the block on eBay but this one, I think,
> really stands out.
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUPERB-RARE-LOW-MILEAGE-1959-TRIUMPH-TR3-TIME
-
>
CAPSULE_W0QQitemZ170199490934QQihZ007QQcategoryZ6469QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1Q
Q
> cmdZViewItem
>
> I you believe the tale (and I see noting in the pics to belie) it is a 
> really
> remarkable example.
>
> NFI of course.  If I had a FI in this one it wouldn't be for sale.
>
> Geo
/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar  6 20:30:57 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:30:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <005701c88001$21214410$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <78999.34940.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

hey - anyone on the list close enough to check this car out in person?????????
   
  our collective curiousity appears to be killing us . . . .

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Mar  6 20:46:29 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 22:46:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Oil Pan Gasket
Message-ID: <000a01c88005$d56a1470$210110ac@bobspc>

OK.....what is the difference between the TR6 oil pan gasket that the Big 3
sells: Moss is $18 while VB and TRF is about $8. Is the Moss one from Payen?
It seems MUCH thicker. Anything different installing the Moss one?

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar  6 20:53:22 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:53:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] tr3 on ebay
In-Reply-To: <000a01c88005$d56a1470$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <635429.48543.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

istr that the triumph letters on the tail weren't put on until after this car?  am i right?

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Mar  6 23:58:11 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 23:58:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Axles and Front Grease Caps
References: <009c01c87f5d$e1ada9c0$a508fd40$@com>
Message-ID: <009e01c88020$9c2b6ea0$54f30818@rolofson>

Try needle nosed vice grips.  A good tight grip and some wiggles back and
forth usually gets them off.

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: spit6 at kning.com
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 12:44 AM
  Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Axles and Front Grease Caps


  Dear All,



  I've recently been pushed to accelerate my project.  J



  I've disassembled my project down to the chassis for quite some time.  I
was
  cleaning up the rear axles and noticed that I can't make them rotate.
  They're locked.  I've removed the brake lines, does that do anything to
make
  them lock?  Do I need to repack the grease seal?



  I also am trying to replace the front rotors, and I can't remove the grease
  caps.  Any ideas?  I just can't get a grip on it to pull it off.



  Appreciate it.



  Thanks,

  Kelvin

  Spit6 Project
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


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  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

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From banc8004 at comcast.net  Fri Mar  7 03:18:05 2008
From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 05:18:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] List and commercialism
Message-ID: <d649d9c577d333cfc73bb5300121ad50@comcast.net>

Jonmac,

I feel commercialism, where its 'one of us' i.e. someone who also 
contributes to the list in an informational sense, is not only 
tolerated but welcomed.
I might feel differently about someone who only used the list to 
promote their products or services. You are clearly of the former.

The charitable effort that you lead is one of the lists most 
interesting and valuable topics, I feel.
If 'the list' were to ask you to stop updating us as you have been, I'd 
be very surprised and disappointed. And after all, I feel I have a 
small stake in that Stag.
I am looking forward to seeing it.

I like the idea of my hobby having a 'point', a contribution, beyond my 
own enjoyment.

Best wishes,

Brian

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Fri Mar  7 03:33:46 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:33:46 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
Message-ID: <1557317144-1204886025-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-83881869-@bxe136.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I am reluctant to reply but do so simply to close this matter, not to fuel this debate. All these points of view are valid. A simple short call to action (FYI with NFI) broadcast occasionally is always welcomed, especially when the cause is noble or benefits the community at large. And while it is easy to hit "delete" - when I received a second Goodies email, listing first a 72 Midget and then 79 MGB - I was expecting a "part 3" email. 

Mu apologies for wasting your time, suggesting to the list we adhere to team.net policies, and any difficulty caused to Gary - he's a good guy - not foul, no harm. 

Corey 'chilled' Sherman
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Fri Mar  7 03:46:52 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:46:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
Message-ID: <231307047-1204886817-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1756987291-@bxe136.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I am reluctant to reply but do so simply to close this matter, not to fuel this debate. All these points of view are valid. A simple short call to action (FYI with NFI) broadcast occasionally is always welcomed, especially when the cause is noble or benefits the community at large. And while it is easy to hit "delete" - when I received a second Goodies email, listing first a 72 Midget and then 79 MGB - I was expecting a "part 3" email. 

Mu apologies for wasting your time, suggesting to the list we adhere to team.net policies, and any difficulty caused to Gary - he's a good guy - not foul, no harm. 

Corey 'chilled' Sherman
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From jay_welch at juno.com  Fri Mar  7 05:16:40 2008
From: jay_welch at juno.com (Jay Welch)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 12:16:40 GMT
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
Message-ID: <20080307.071640.26177.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>

I personally don't have a problem with a for sale post as we all know how many
"pertinent" Triumph topics have been discussed for weeks ad nauseum on our
lists.

How about just allowing a quick note to alert the lists that a party has some
items for sale on the autojumble.  Allowing this note might promote more
traffic on that list as well.

Jay in MA


-- cm.sherman at verizon.net wrote:
I am reluctant to reply but do so simply to close this matter, not to fuel
this debate. All these points of view are valid. A simple short call to action
(FYI with NFI) broadcast occasionally is always welcomed, especially when the
cause is noble or benefits the community at large. And while it is easy to hit
"delete" - when I received a second Goodies email, listing first a 72 Midget
and then 79 MGB - I was expecting a "part 3" email.

Mu apologies for wasting your time, suggesting to the list we adhere to
team.net policies, and any difficulty caused to Gary - he's a good guy - not
foul, no harm.

Corey 'chilled' Sherman
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jay_welch at juno.com

_____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get an emergency loan, bad credit ok
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mKmy72lGNukxuD5s95PSdBc3gr
i27Fp6fgEsB6Ahv98jlVM/

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar  7 06:11:36 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 08:11:36 EST
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
Message-ID: <bdf.2ca39bd7.35029908@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/6/2008 5:21:37 PM Central Standard Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> Hmmm. I want a little " 30 days in the hole" by Humble Pie. That, and Dave
> Massey playing Amazing Grace on the bagpipes.
> 
I had the honor and privilege of playing for the two fallen Kirkwood police 
officers recently.  Playing that tune "just for the heck of it" is one thing.  
Playing it under these circumstances takes on a whole new meaning.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar  7 06:14:51 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 08:14:51 EST
Subject: [TR] While we are on the music rant...
Message-ID: <cf4.23dd1ee8.350299cb@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/6/2008 5:43:52 PM Central Standard Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> How about the Spinal Tappets playing a little ACDC at VTR with Dave
> accompanying them on his bagpipes:)
> 
Right!  And how about some performance artists dancing their interpretation 
of a fast moving slime mold.

And a laser light show depicting Columbus' landing in the West Indies.

And now back to our non-sequitors

Dave   

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar  7 07:08:32 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 09:08:32 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hydraulic Jack Question
Message-ID: <000801c8805c$bc2161b0$210110ac@bobspc>

What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and
settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a
combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how much
one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of
minutes with or without a load on it?

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Fri Mar  7 07:17:04 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 09:17:04 EST
Subject: [TR] Hydraulic Jack Question
Message-ID: <bd8.2c791038.3502a860@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 6:09:43 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

What  causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and
settle  back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a
combination  of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how much
one can  drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of
minutes  with or without a load on it?



Jacks today are cheap enough that I replaced mine when it started doing  
that. HF used to sell a universal seal kit.
Mike Moore



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar  7 07:20:16 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 09:20:16 EST
Subject: [TR] Hydraulic Jack Question
Message-ID: <d02.2bc07131.3502a920@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 8:09:38 AM Central Standard Time, 
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: 
> What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and
> settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a
> combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how much
> one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of
> minutes with or without a load on it?
> 
The fact that some don't (most don't) is the amazing part.  The only thing 
that is keeping them in position is the fact that the oil is not leaking past 
the piston.  If yours is leaking it could be getting past the seal on the 
piston.  The oil is not lost, it is just going to the non-pressurized side of the 
piston.

Another possibility is that the valve is leaking.  That has the same effect.

Being low on fluid would not cause a long term drift.  It would cause the 
crane or jack to become "springy."  That is because air is compressible.  Oil is 
not (or relatively not).  Since you are not reporting this symptom it is 
likely not the problem.

Dave   

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Fri Mar  7 07:40:53 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 08:40:53 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Oil Pan Gasket
Message-ID: <3326865.1204900854063.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Try your local auto parts store first.  I can get Payen gaskets locally.  Greg Perry

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Mar  7 07:47:36 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 09:47:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
In-Reply-To: <bdf.2ca39bd7.35029908@cs.com>
References: <bdf.2ca39bd7.35029908@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W52C0C4CF975BE3E9387E64BA130@phx.gbl>

I meant no disrespect. I probably should not have grouped those two together
as the first part was a bit in jest and the second part was the serious/somber
part of me trying to sneak out. I hope I didn't offend and apologize if I
did.


Marty


From: Dave1massey at cs.comDate: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 08:11:36 -0500Subject: Re: [TR]
OT - funeral musicTo: trmarty at hotmail.com; TR250Driver at aol.com;
sumton at sbcglobal.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.netIn a
message dated 3/6/2008 5:21:37 PM Central Standard Time, trmarty at hotmail.com
writes:
Hmmm. I want a little " 30 days in the hole" by Humble Pie. That, and
DaveMassey playing Amazing Grace on the bagpipes.I had the honor and privilege
of playing for the two fallen Kirkwood police officers recently.  Playing that
tune "just for the heck of it" is one thing.  Playing it under these
circumstances takes on a whole new meaning.Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star
power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Mar  7 08:02:12 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:02:12 EST
Subject: [TR] 80 TR8 - Delco Alternator - engine wiring harness
Message-ID: <d3e.25be9abc.3502b2f4@aol.com>

I'm replacing the engine wiring harness in my TR8 - I'm a little concerned  
about the way a Delco Alternator (conversion by previous owner) is wired. 
 
The small brown wire (or what would be the small brown wire if it hadn't  
been replaced) is connected to the output bolt terminal on the Delco and another  
wire on the output bolt terminal goes to the "2" terminal on the Delco.
 
Its worked fine like this for years, but this small brown wire was  burned 
throughout most of the engine harness sometime in the past and was  replaced by 
a heavier gauge wire completely outside the engine harness (prior to  my 
custody of the car) - so was the small brown/yellow alternator wire. 
 
So my question is wouldn't things work just as well if I connect the  small 
brown wire to "2" on the Delco - without it also connected to the output  bolt 
terminal?
Is there any risk to the small brown and brown/yellow wires in the engine  
harness if i reconnect everything like it was?
 
Thanks,
Jack Mc 




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From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Mar  7 08:05:35 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 15:05:35 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack]  [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale
Message-ID: <030720081505.4886.47D159BF0008CC660000131622007374789D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

I'm sorry for my part in this debacle, too.

The only reason I replied in the first place is that I had not seen the offending posts on triumphs at autox.team.net

There were several possibilities which could account for this:

1  I was inattentive. 

2  I am crazy.

3  Corey was spamming lists to which the offending post was not sent.

4  I was not getting all the posts sent to the list.

Research into my trash pile shows that while I am often inattentive and may indeed be crazy, I did NOT receive the original posts.  Eliminate 1 and 2.

The original posts, kindly provided to me by Corey,  show that the original posts WERE addressed to triumphs at autox.team.net.  Eliminate 3.  I apologize to Corey for my reaction to his post and thank him for his prompt and professional response.

This leaves only possibility 4.  I can't explain that.  This makes me a little uneasy, but "stuff happens" on the Internet and I am surely not tech-savvy enough to investigate why.

--
Phil "Cybernetically-challenged but not crazy at least this time" Ethier  
West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From eoot at citlink.net  Fri Mar  7 08:23:35 2008
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:23:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] Hydraulic Jack Question
References: <000801c8805c$bc2161b0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <00a601c88067$37d8a1b0$670a0a0a@MyComputski>

When mine started doing that I referred to the owners manual...said to bleed 
it. I did and it resolved the problem.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 9:08 AM
Subject: [TR] Hydraulic Jack Question


> What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and
> settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a
> combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how 
> much
> one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of
> minutes with or without a load on it?
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar  7 08:26:29 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 07:26:29 -0800
Subject: [TR] 80 TR8 - Delco Alternator - engine wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <d3e.25be9abc.3502b2f4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080307152629.KVLK11478.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> The small brown wire (or what would be the small brown wire 
> if it hadn't been replaced) is connected to the output bolt 
> terminal on the Delco and another wire on the output bolt 
> terminal goes to the "2" terminal on the Delco.

Jack, is there also a large brown wire that goes from the output terminal to
the starter solenoid ?

> Its worked fine like this for years, but this small brown 
> wire was  burned throughout most of the engine harness 
> sometime in the past

If the large brown was absent or not connected; and the small brown
connected to the output terminal, that would explain why it burned.  That
would have it carrying the full output of the alternator to the battery/rest
of car; but it is sized only as a 'sense' lead to bring battery voltage to
the voltage regulator inside the alternator.

> So my question is wouldn't things work just as well if I 
> connect the  small brown wire to "2" on the Delco - without 
> it also connected to the output  bolt terminal?

Assuming you do have the heavy brown wire, I believe that would be better.

BTW, the brown/yellow should just go to the warning lamp on the dash,
meaning it carries very little current.  Likely it was damaged only by
proximity to the burned small brown wire.

Randall

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar  7 09:22:36 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 16:22:36 +0000
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W11B467CA24CB708C8DCB02BA120@phx.gbl>
References: <bde.2bd7e162.3501c302@aol.com>
	<BAY123-W11B467CA24CB708C8DCB02BA120@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W4647CB4567C5CAF7E32372E5130@phx.gbl>

For me it has to be Janis singing "Mercedes Benz" possible followed by the
Cowboy Junkies "Mining for Gold"..

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star
power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Fri Mar  7 09:49:31 2008
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 09:49:31 -0700
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
Message-ID: <47D1721B.9040900@shaw.ca>

When my wife passed away two and half years ago at 44 years old, after a 
5 year fight with cancer, she made all the arrangement for her own 
funeral. One of the things people at her service thought was really nice 
was the power point slide show she put together of all the people and 
things she cared most about in life accompanied by the song "These Are a 
Few Of My Favorite Things" from the movie The Sound of Music.
She closed out the service with two songs that she felt expressed how 
she felt about going. One was "Time of Your Life" by Green Day.
The other was a really beautiful song called "Borrowed Time" by a Celtic 
band named Leahy below are links to their web site and a sample of the song.
http://www.leahymusic.com/discography_lakefield.php
http://www.leahymusic.com/audio/Lakefield_BorrowedTime.mp3

I'm sorry for your loss, and hope my comments were appropriate.

Doug Hamilton

> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:57:10 -0600
> From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
> Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>, <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <006e01c87fbb$e4bad300$8d8aa8c0 at garage.local>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> 	reply-type=original
>
> first - my apologies - i know this can be a sensitive topic - i lost my own
> father last October - again my apologies i don't want to offend anyone
>
>
> a recent choice for a funeral at our church was "stayin alive" by the bee 
> gees

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar  7 09:52:15 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 16:52:15 +0000
Subject: [TR] Hydraulic Jack Question
In-Reply-To: <000801c8805c$bc2161b0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000801c8805c$bc2161b0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W466203ADCCB8AF657688FFE5130@phx.gbl>

Probably means the seals in the jack are leaking.  You should be able to buy a
rebuild kit at your lfps.  I did that many years ago for the 30" bottle jack
on my engine lift.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 09:08:32 -0500
> Subject: [TR] Hydraulic Jack Question
>
> What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and
> settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a
> combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how
much
> one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of
> minutes with or without a load on it?
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Fri Mar  7 10:28:22 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 12:28:22 EST
Subject: [TR] 80 TR8 - Delco Alternator - engine wiring harness
Message-ID: <cf2.29fd00ef.3502d536@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 10:26:39 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

If the  large brown was absent or not connected; and the small brown
connected to  the output terminal, that would explain why it burned.  That
would  have it carrying the full output of the alternator to the battery/rest
of  car; but it is sized only as a 'sense' lead to bring battery voltage to
the  voltage regulator inside the alternator.

> So my question is  wouldn't things work just as well if I 
> connect the  small brown  wire to "2" on the Delco - without 
> it also connected to the  output  bolt terminal?

Assuming you do have the heavy brown wire,  I believe that would be better.

BTW, the brown/yellow should just go to  the warning lamp on the dash,
meaning it carries very little current.   Likely it was damaged only by
proximity to the burned small brown  wire.
 
 
 
The large brown wire is/has been present and connected properly - I'm  sure 
you're right about the small brown/yellow wire's reason for replacement - I  
have no idea why the small brown wire burned so completely in the harness unless 
 something wasn't initially wired correctly when the conversion was done - 
any  thoughts on that?
 
BTW I'm replacing the engine harness because the solenoid failed to pull  in 
the starter about 1 out of 5 start attempts and recently power to the fuel  
pump thru the oil pressure switch circuit began to fail intermittently when the  
car was hot - the old engine harness is a real mess - I'm surprised now  that 
it functioned as long as it did.
 
Thanks,
Jack Mc 



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From triumph66 at gmail.com  Fri Mar  7 10:53:57 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 12:53:57 -0500
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <78999.34940.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <005701c88001$21214410$6401a8c0@sniffer>
	<78999.34940.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0803070953p4d37dfftbf3c7becd731dac8@mail.gmail.com>

I'll be down that way on the 19th, but to pick up some good wine in DE and
MD, but not to look at what looks to be a very nice restore, but not quite
the original patina item described.

What's interesting is the license plate, an older DE plate made from
ceramic.  It's a real DE thing, where plate #1 is passed to successive
Governors.  The DuPonts and other car crazies with tons of money have some
of very low number DE ceramic plates on their antique, vintage, and classic
cars.

That writing is a bit "over the top" to put it lightly,

Ted
State College, PA

On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 10:30 PM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> hey - anyone on the list close enough to check this car out in
> person?????????
>
>  our collective curiousity appears to be killing us . . . .
>

-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
http://www.triumphowners.com/967

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Mar  7 11:10:13 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 11:10:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
References: <005701c88001$21214410$6401a8c0@sniffer><78999.34940.qm@web82807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a11dceec0803070953p4d37dfftbf3c7becd731dac8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004f01c8807e$7d5c6160$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

Speaking of which...I need a Delaware plate for my collection,  Anyone know
where I can get one?  It doesn't need to be ceramic. A new onw will work
fine. I am trying to get a plate from all 50 states and Canadian provinces.

Joe C.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ted" <triumph66 at gmail.com>
To: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay


> I'll be down that way on the 19th, but to pick up some good wine in DE and
> MD, but not to look at what looks to be a very nice restore, but not quite
> the original patina item described.
>
> What's interesting is the license plate, an older DE plate made from
> ceramic.  It's a real DE thing, where plate #1 is passed to successive
> Governors.  The DuPonts and other car crazies with tons of money have some
> of very low number DE ceramic plates on their antique, vintage, and
classic
> cars.
>
> That writing is a bit "over the top" to put it lightly,
>
> Ted
> State College, PA
>
> On Thu, Mar 6, 2008 at 10:30 PM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> > hey - anyone on the list close enough to check this car out in
> > person?????????
> >
> >  our collective curiousity appears to be killing us . . . .
> >
>
> -- 
> T.L.L.
> 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
> http://www.triumphowners.com/967
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Mar  7 11:08:31 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 13:08:31 EST
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
Message-ID: <bc3.245a1377.3502de9f@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/6/2008 8:12:57 PM Mountain Standard Time,  
wbeech at flash.net writes:

Pretty  car, nice story.  This guy is pretty eloquent for a retired  mechanic.
BTW, where are the wire wheels that came with this 'one-owner'  gem? (see
bill of sale)



Check the questions to the seller...someone asked him this and he pleaded  
ignorace, but suggesting buying new hubs and wheels would be a good  idea.

 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Mar  7 11:12:42 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 18:12:42 -0000
Subject: [TR] List and commercialism
References: <d649d9c577d333cfc73bb5300121ad50@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <06e901c8807e$d63dfb40$0201a8c0@Bevan>

I had no wish in my earlier post on this issue to be seen to be setting a wedge between Corey 
Sherman or Gary Fuqua - both gentlemen I've never met (as yet) but hope to do so next year. I'd just 
like to say a very sincere thank you to all who replied to my post both on and off list and for the 
kind things they have said.

Brian Jones wrote:
> If 'the list' were to ask you to stop updating us as you have been, I'd be very surprised and 
> disappointed. And after all, I feel I have a small stake in that Stag.
> I am looking forward to seeing it.

Me too, Brian. What's more, I'm very much looking forward to driving it! More will be announced in 
due course, but it goes without saying that as the route is now starting to show signs of where it 
is going, apart from enjoying *driving* the Stag, I'm hoping that as many listers as possible will 
be willing to join me for a day's ride in it. I'll be asking for contributions to that effect to all 
go into the big charity pot so those who might want to come with me for a day (first come first 
served) can perhaps let friends and rellys know they're looking for a mixture of sponsorship, 
together with the odd birthday or anniversary present thrown in for good measure to help swell 
coffers :) Watch the lists for further details. No bookings being taken at the moment, so don't jump 
the gun anyone! :)

Jonmac 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar  7 11:26:59 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 13:26:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question
In-Reply-To: <c0e.27510fa0.3502c609@aol.com>
References: <c0e.27510fa0.3502c609@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000601c88080$d81a7180$210110ac@bobspc>

The jack that drifts or leaks down is my old one that I'm using to put the
diff back in (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffCarrier.htm) My main jack
is an Aluminum one by Arcan and it carries the statement: In accordance with
ASME PALD Standard section 10-4.1.2 Load Sustaining Test: A load not less
then the rated capacity shall not lower more then 1/8" in the first minute
nor a total of .1875" in 10 minutes.

Pretty tight tolerances as I have trouble even measuring 1/8" ;-) 
 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

 

________________________________

From: Vsnively at aol.com [mailto:Vsnively at aol.com] 
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 11:24 AM
To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net;
6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question


In a message dated 3/7/2008 9:09:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

	What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a
position and
	settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a
	combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for
how much
	one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a
matter of
	minutes with or without a load on it?
	
	Bob Danielson
	1975 TR6 CF38503U
	Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
	http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
	_______________________________________________
	
	Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
	
	6pack at autox.team.net
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
	
	http://www.team.net/archive
	
	You are subscribed as vsnively at aol.com
	

 
Bob,
 
  You don't mention the age of the jack, but typically it's fluid leaking
past a piston seal, or more likely, a check ball / valve seat is worn and
allows fluid to flow when and where it shouldn't. There can also be an
internal crack in a body or housing that allows an unwanted fluid path as
well. The answer, generally speaking, is fluid is flowing where it shouldn't
be. It's lazy and takes the path of least resistance, like some of my
neighbors. You could also have an aeration issue caused by improper fluid
level in the reservoir.
  I am in industrial fluid power and am not aware of allowable drift
standards. Drifts could be catastrophic, depends on the application. I would
be interested in hearing more, offline.
  Thanks.
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6 w/AC




________________________________

It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance.
<http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001> 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Mar  7 11:35:42 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:35:42 -0800
Subject: [TR] List and commercialism
In-Reply-To: <06e901c8807e$d63dfb40$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <d649d9c577d333cfc73bb5300121ad50@comcast.net>
	<06e901c8807e$d63dfb40$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <p06240801c3f738ec4711@[98.224.7.170]>

JonMac  ...
	You can't seriously think that every Triumph within 100 miles 
of your route will NOT  be joining you in  Caravan ???   Methinks you 
will  need a well used cricket bat to ward them  off ...  Not to 
mention  the  hoards  of TV crews and trucks following, you will just 
have to learn to negotiate suitable "fees" for all the "looky loos" 
which  should add considerable  funds to your Charity Trust ... Why 
it could end up as  the greatest "reality show"  of the season.
	Tune in tomorrow  ... will the Stag make it through Canadian 
Customs, or will the Driver  be detained as his  documents  are 
scrutinized..

The  above  comments are made  with  my tongue firmly inserted into 
my cheek  ... >:-}

LBC  content ...   CARBURETTOR ... A French word for "Do Not Touch"

>
>Me too, Brian. What's more, I'm very much looking forward to driving 
>it! More will be announced in due course, but it goes without saying 
>that as the route is now starting to show signs of where it is 
>going, apart from enjoying *driving* the Stag, I'm hoping that as 
>many listers as possible will be willing to join me for a day's ride 
>in it.



-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Mar  7 12:09:11 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 14:09:11 EST
Subject: [TR] While we are on the music rant...
Message-ID: <cb7.25762adf.3502ecd7@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 6:15:16 AM Mountain Standard Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

Right!  And how about some performance artists dancing their  interpretation 
of a fast moving slime mold.

And a laser light show  depicting Columbus' landing in the West Indies.

And now back to our  non-sequitors

Dave   




Back in the day when all problems seemed solvable after a couple of six  
packs, my best friend promised to have my cremated ashes taken to the gulf coast  
of Texas by a small Indian boy on the back of an elephant, all to the music of 
 the Animals...with "House of the Rising Sun" playing as he waded out to pour 
my  ashes in the water.
 
TImes change, no?
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Mar  7 12:20:05 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 19:20:05 -0000
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803061749510.19504@hymn12.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <06ee01c88088$40459a30$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Nick Wolf wrote:

>   Why the smile after "rustproofing"?  Did I miss something funny?  ;)

Nick, what's the worst that can happen to your Triumph body? And the *proofing* against it? I dug 
out lots of it on my own car some years back

>   Seriously though, that is a great explanation of why the body-in-white numbers exist.  Now, can 
> you tell us anything about what they mean?  Were they sequential, or do they carry a date code, 
> or... maybe just a string of random digits?

No, they were sequential but, like the commission number sequencing, the cars were often not built 
sequentially.

>Do you know the meaning of the "ZS" prefix on the TR4 body-in-white numbers?

No, afraid I don't. I no longer have access to the BMIHT build records to try and puzzle it out.

>   Are there any records of these numbers?  (Piggott says no)

Unfortunately, Saint Piggot is not being totally accurate. Every body number was recorded on the 
*production tally* card as a matter of course and procedure. But, as the commission number was the 
governing data in terms of car build and despatch history, the body numbers were never recorded as 
separate records in their own right. Therefore Piggot is partly correct but the records do exist, 
though not in numerical sequence.

Jonmac 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar  7 12:22:19 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 14:22:19 EST
Subject: [TR] OT - funeral music
Message-ID: <c79.2b429b15.3502efeb@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 8:47:50 AM Central Standard Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> I meant no disrespect. I probably should not have grouped those two 
> together as the first part was a bit in jest and the second part was the 
> serious/somber part of me trying to sneak out. I hope I didn't offend and apologize if I 
> did.
> 
No need for apologies.  No offense taken.  I took your comments as a joke and 
I just carried the process forward, to the point of absurd, I hope.  ;-)

This is way off topic for a car list but some tunes work on pipes and others 
don't.  Dave at the Roadster Factory has requested Stairway to heaven, which 
as luck would have it, actually does work.  Stay tuned.

Dave   

From davidt at opentext.com  Fri Mar  7 12:24:06 2008
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 14:24:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] an article for the afternoon...
Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB49FA@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>

Hi all,



FYI, not an overly bad synopsis of the Spitfire



http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/bv/63-80spitfire.htm



A little light reading more than anything for a Friday afternoon....



David Templeton

'74 Spitsix

'59 TR3a

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar  7 12:37:39 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 14:37:39 EST
Subject: [TR] While we are on the music rant...
Message-ID: <d5e.23f0877d.3502f383@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 1:09:46 PM Central Standard Time, 
BearTranserv at aol.com writes: 
> Back in the day when all problems seemed solvable after a couple of six  
> packs, my best friend promised to have my cremated ashes taken to the gulf 
> coast  
> of Texas by a small Indian boy on the back of an elephant, all to the music 
> of 
> the Animals...with "House of the Rising Sun" playing as he waded out to pour 
> 
> my  ashes in the water.
> 
> TImes change, no?
> 
Yes, they do.  Now a-days that would be a young man of South Central Asian 
decent on an elephant...

Dave   

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Fri Mar  7 13:00:15 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 15:00:15 EST
Subject: [TR] red rubber grease
Message-ID: <cb9.2874eebe.3502f8cf@aol.com>

I will be rebuilding my master cylinder and calipers soon on my six and I  am 
looking for a rubber grease to go on the seals. The tech article from the  
Buckeye TR site recommends using red rubber grease. I have found that the Lotus  
Parts people have 500 grams for $39. That is a little more than I need. When 
I  googled it, I came up with sites in the UK and New Zealand. I also found at 
 AllRaceOil.com some PBR Rubber Grease for $7.95 for a 17.5 gm tube. Is this 
the  same stuff? 
 
Does anyone know of a supplier of red rubber grease or have any  
recommendations of what I should use for the rebuild on my M/C?
 
Peter Schoppelry
'69 TR6
CC 26418L



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Mar  7 13:08:35 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 13:08:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] Red Carpet
Message-ID: <000301c8808f$06fc3610$6401a8c0@sniffer>

I sent off for samples of the Wilton Wool carpet for my 58 TR3, standard in
'58.  The red from Moss is almost a burnt orange, from Heritage a very nice
dark red and from TRF two pieces, one is almost the  same nice dark red as
Heritage and the other a very bright red #GTCS21 with 'Original" written
next to it.
 
Is the original wool color really the brighter color?   I would have thought
the darker would have been the standard as it would set off the red
upholstery and panels with more contrast.
 
Any input from the list would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thx,
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!

From dwillner at ptd.net  Fri Mar  7 13:24:44 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 15:24:44 -0500
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
References: <bc3.245a1377.3502de9f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000901c88091$49095220$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

man o man....I have never heard such fluff about 4 wheels, an ex-mechanic? I 
started reading the Q&A on Ebay and had to stop and go beat my head against 
the wall for awhile....sheesh! Just the facts, please.....

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special 

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Mar  7 13:24:41 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 15:24:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] While we are on the music rant...
In-Reply-To: <d5e.23f0877d.3502f383@cs.com>
References: <d5e.23f0877d.3502f383@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47D1A489.1000600@bright.net>

Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/7/2008 1:09:46 PM Central Standard Time, 
> BearTranserv at aol.com writes: 
>   
>> Back in the day when all problems seemed solvable after a couple of six  
>> packs, my best friend promised to have my cremated ashes taken to the gulf 
>> coast  
>> of Texas by a small Indian boy on the back of an elephant, all to the music 
>> of 
>> the Animals...with "House of the Rising Sun" playing as he waded out to pour 
>>
>> my  ashes in the water.
>>
>> TImes change, no?
>>
>>     
> Yes, they do.  Now a-days that would be a young man of South Central Asian 
> decent on an elephant...
>
> Dave   
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
>   
Dave, going to the other end of the scale, when the organist asked what 
we wanted for processional and recessional music at our wedding, I 
requested "theme from Mission Impossible" (the real one not the pretend 
movies) for the processional and "My Way" for the recessional. Doris did 
not agree.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Mar  7 13:41:09 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 12:41:09 -0800
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <000901c88091$49095220$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
References: <bc3.245a1377.3502de9f@aol.com>
	<000901c88091$49095220$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <p06240802c3f758a6b61c@[98.224.7.170]>

My question is  ... what is the extra knob between the panel and the 
"cubby" ...

>man o man....I have never heard such fluff about 4 wheels, an ex-mechanic? I
>started reading the Q&A on Ebay and had to stop and go beat my head against
>the wall for awhile....sheesh! Just the facts, please.....
>


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From dwillner at ptd.net  Fri Mar  7 14:16:05 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 16:16:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
References: <bc3.245a1377.3502de9f@aol.com>
	<000901c88091$49095220$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<p06240802c3f758a6b61c@[98.224.7.170]>
Message-ID: <000401c88098$753e7170$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

I think it is probably the optional Tudor screen washer...mine is the just 
like it, but mine didn't originally come on my car.

Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill & AnnaBelle" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay


> My question is  ... what is the extra knob between the panel and the 
> "cubby" ...
>
>>man o man....I have never heard such fluff about 4 wheels, an ex-mechanic? 
>>I
>>started reading the Q&A on Ebay and had to stop and go beat my head 
>>against
>>the wall for awhile....sheesh! Just the facts, please.....
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Bill  Pugh
> 1957 TR3 TS16765L
> aka
> Casper
>
> AnnaBelle Pugh
> 1970 TR6 CC59179L
> aka
> Rosey
> Wallace, CA

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Mar  7 15:03:32 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 22:03:32 -0000
Subject: [TR] List and commercialism
References: <d649d9c577d333cfc73bb5300121ad50@comcast.net>
	<06e901c8807e$d63dfb40$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<p06240801c3f738ec4711@[98.224.7.170]>
Message-ID: <075801c8809f$1598ccf0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Bill Pugh wrote:

> You can't seriously think that every Triumph within 100 miles of your route will NOT  be joining 
> you in  Caravan ???   Methinks you will  need a well used cricket bat to ward them  off ...  Not 
> to mention  the  hoards  of TV crews and trucks following, you will just have to learn to 
> negotiate suitable "fees" for all the "looky loos" which  should add considerable  funds to your 
> Charity Trust ... Why it could end up as  the greatest "reality show"  of the season.

I don't care how many people turn up - as long as its a lot! Enough in fact to block the roads :) 
That'll be fine providing everyone brings along a bucket (or two) for collecting whatever can be 
legally extracted from other onlookers:)

> Tune in tomorrow  ... will the Stag make it through Canadian Customs, or will the Driver  be 
> detained as his  documents  are scrutinized..

Well, the driver could well be detained - even though he's entering a British Commonwealth country 
at the Canadian border. Maybe the Canadian authorities have already discovered I'm still banned for 
life as a fare-paying passenger with Alitalia and that I was thrown out of the People's Popular 
Democratic Republic of Yemen in 1979 for drinking illicit booze on the Prophet's birthday. Apart 
from those two misdemeanours, I *think* I'm fairly 'sin-free.' :) But would those that really know 
me agree?

Jonmac 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Fri Mar  7 15:14:01 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 17:14:01 -0500
Subject: [TR] an article for the afternoon...
In-Reply-To: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB49FA@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <47D177D9.21742.19B98EF4@localhost>

On 7 Mar 2008 at 14:24, David Templeton wrote:

> FYI, not an overly bad synopsis of the Spitfire
>
> http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/bv/63-80spitfire.htm

Hmmmmmmm.  The writer sez:
> The Mark IV (now using Roman numerals) replaced the Mark 3 for
> 1971. Its most outstanding feature was replacement of the old
> swing axles with a fully articulated independent rear suspension,
> a la the GT6.

That would have been a nice upgrade but it isn't BL did, unless they 
put a different suspension on the U.S. cars as for Canada cars.  The 
Mk IV got the swing-spring, a variant of the original suspension, not 
the GT6's "fully articulated independent rear suspension".


-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Mar  7 15:35:31 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 22:35:31 -0000
Subject: [TR] Sun visor concerns
Message-ID: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Friends, I'm posting to three lists because this has to be a common Triumph problem with the older 
car. I've been out today in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCan UK fundraising Spitfire for a photoshoot. 
Lovely sunny day, though not all that warm, but with the tonneau in place, the heater blower doing 
its (not very impressive) best, it was side-windows down, a zipped up fleece and a red wool hat. Car 
went superbly and no complaints there at all - except for one. Has anyone worked out a way of how to 
re-tension the sun visor to stop it flip-flopping about its screen monted stay? Everything's OK up 
to about 75 - and sometimes 85 - but I am getting rather tired of it suddenly plunging down and 
completely obscuring my forward vision. Currently the car isn't fitted with a self-draining driving 
seat but if another truck suddenly pulls out in front of me with the sun visor down, I may have to 
investigate the engineering possibilities..........

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From darrellw at ipns.com  Fri Mar  7 15:43:48 2008
From: darrellw at ipns.com (Darrell Walker)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 14:43:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] Sun visor concerns
In-Reply-To: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <80E7ED2E-F6FE-4601-87EF-7A4D6A110B73@ipns.com>

Hi Jonmac,

If the visors are like the ones on my 4A, you can carefully pinch the  
metal tube in the visor that goes over the rod portion of the mount.

-Darrell

-- 
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS CTC67956L
Vancouver, WA, USA

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Mar  7 15:47:27 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 17:47:27 EST
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
Message-ID: <d10.1fdabe21.35031fff@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 3:25:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dwillner at ptd.net writes:

an  ex-mechanic? I 
started reading the Q&A on Ebay and had to stop and go  beat my head against 
the wall for awhile


I agree.  I couldn't put it down.  It was so  captivating.  I cried at the 
end.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From spyderweb at uwalumni.com  Fri Mar  7 16:03:30 2008
From: spyderweb at uwalumni.com (spyderweb at uwalumni.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 17:03:30 -0600
Subject: [TR] Exceptional TR3A on eBay
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3988.1204930072.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3988.1204930072.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080307170330.wo5us18zk4kwcw08@secure.uwalumni.com>

Of the "exceptional TR3A, 'twas written:

> man o man....I have never heard such fluff
> about 4 wheels, an ex-mechanic? I started
> reading the Q&A on Ebay and had to stop
> and go beat my head against the wall for
> awhile....sheesh! Just the facts, please.....

The "facts" may or may not convince you to buy the car, but the  
"facts" are irrelevant if you never read them.

The "fluff" is what got you to look at the car and read the  
description, and made it a hot topic in this space. Job done.

Jim Hill

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Mar  7 16:18:36 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 23:18:36 -0000
Subject: [TR] an article for the afternoon...
References: <47D177D9.21742.19B98EF4@localhost>
Message-ID: <085401c880a9$92a319d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Jim Muller wrote:>
> Hmmmmmmm.  The writer sez:
>> The Mark IV (now using Roman numerals) replaced the Mark 3 for
>> 1971. Its most outstanding feature was replacement of the old
>> swing axles with a fully articulated independent rear suspension,
>> a la the GT6.
>
> That would have been a nice upgrade but it isn't BL did, unless they
> put a different suspension on the U.S. cars as for Canada cars.  The
> Mk IV got the swing-spring, a variant of the original suspension, not
> the GT6's "fully articulated independent rear suspension".

In addition, he also said that in 1964, the Mk 1 offered a factory hardtop of fibreglass. Hmm. Only 
Spitfires I know with factory hardtops had them in steel and up to and including the Mk 3 those tops 
were strong enough to hold the car safely upside down.

Jonmac 

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar  7 16:18:48 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 18:18:48 EST
Subject: [TR] While we are on the music rant...
Message-ID: <d54.2669f42f.35032758@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 2:25:31 PM Central Standard Time, 
tedtsimx at bright.net writes: 
> Dave, going to the other end of the scale, when the organist asked what we 
> wanted for processional and recessional music at our wedding, I requested 
> "theme from Mission Impossible" (the real one not the pretend movies) for the 
> processional and "My Way" for the recessional. Doris did not agree.  Ted
> 
Nothing like starting the marriage off on the right foot.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar  7 16:22:59 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 18:22:59 EST
Subject: [TR] List and commercialism
Message-ID: <c4c.2cd25469.35032853@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/7/2008 4:03:33 PM Central Standard Time, 
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes: 
> I'm still banned for 
> life as a fare-paying passenger with Alitalia

Was that for your Mussolini impression?   

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Fri Mar  7 17:31:48 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 19:31:48 -0500
Subject: [TR] Recommended tires for stock TR4 disc wheels
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPAEOFEMAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Hi list,
Well, I'm sitting here Friday evening in Cincinnati in a Blizzard (yea,
that's right) wishing for a warm Saturday afternoon to work on my TR4A. I
have a tire question for you guys that I am sure has been on here before. I
have tried to catalog good to know info but tires was too far off in the
future until now.
Anyway, I just picked up a set of really nice, TR4A steel wheels with new
hub caps last weekend with no tires. What is a good tire recommendation for
these narrow rims?  What tires have you guys been having good results with?
I need to get tires on them as the rolling chassis is my first goal once the
weather breaks here..
Thanks,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar  7 17:36:04 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 19:36:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sun visor concerns
In-Reply-To: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <001c01c880b4$67055350$210110ac@bobspc>

John,
If it's like a TR6, pull the visor off of the rod and give the rod a very
very very slight bend. I tried the pinching technique but it didn't last
long for me. The bent rod has held my visors in place for over 10 years now.



Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 5:36 PM
To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Sun visor concerns

Friends, I'm posting to three lists because this has to be a common Triumph
problem with the older car. I've been out today in the Triumph
Trans-AmeriCan UK fundraising Spitfire for a photoshoot. 
Lovely sunny day, though not all that warm, but with the tonneau in place,
the heater blower doing its (not very impressive) best, it was side-windows
down, a zipped up fleece and a red wool hat. Car went superbly and no
complaints there at all - except for one. Has anyone worked out a way of how
to re-tension the sun visor to stop it flip-flopping about its screen monted
stay? Everything's OK up to about 75 - and sometimes 85 - but I am getting
rather tired of it suddenly plunging down and completely obscuring my
forward vision. Currently the car isn't fitted with a self-draining driving
seat but if another truck suddenly pulls out in front of me with the sun
visor down, I may have to investigate the engineering
possibilities..........

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From mgowen55 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar  7 19:13:13 2008
From: mgowen55 at hotmail.com (Glenn Owen)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 21:13:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Sun visor concerns
References: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<001c01c880b4$67055350$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <BAY111-DAV547AC79F938FCA004E005D60C0@phx.gbl>

John,
If  you choose to endeavor in engineering the possibilities of a 
self-draining driving seat, I would hope that you can do better than the 
engineering of  the self-draining scuttle wells on the TR vehicles. We 
certainly don't need another rust point to deal with.
Best regards,
Glenn




 Currently the car isn't fitted with a self-draining driving
> seat but if another truck suddenly pulls out in front of me with the sun
> visor down, I may have to investigate the engineering
> possibilities..........
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Mar  7 19:37:47 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2008 02:37:47 +0000
Subject: [TR] an article for the afternoon...
Message-ID: <030820080237.18984.47D1FBFB0006043C00004A2822070208539D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: "Jim Muller" <jimmuller at rcn.com>
> On 7 Mar 2008 at 14:24, David Templeton wrote:
> 
> > FYI, not an overly bad synopsis of the Spitfire
> >
> > http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/bv/63-80spitfire.htm
> 
> Hmmmmmmm.  The writer sez:
> > The Mark IV (now using Roman numerals) replaced the Mark 3 for
> > 1971. Its most outstanding feature was replacement of the old
> > swing axles with a fully articulated independent rear suspension,
> > a la the GT6.
> 
> That would have been a nice upgrade but it isn't BL did, unless they 
> put a different suspension on the U.S. cars as for Canada cars.  The 
> Mk IV got the swing-spring, a variant of the original suspension, not 
> the GT6's "fully articulated independent rear suspension".

Oh good.  It's not just me.


--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Fri Mar  7 20:09:42 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 22:09:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] always turn the key off?
Message-ID: <00ab01c880c9$db726bf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Still dreamin' of the  day...

I've always known that it is bad to leave the key switch turned on, if in
fact, the car is no longer running.  At least on my older car.

But assuming someday when I have my TR3A's Pertronix ignition (negative grnd.
version) installed, does this rule remain just as important?  Possibly less
important?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From steven at newellboys.com  Fri Mar  7 15:43:30 2008
From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell)
Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 15:43:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] Racing Goodies Needed
Message-ID: <47D1C512.2060101@newellboys.com>

Just got back to the list. Does anyone know where I can buy some racing 
goodies? Thx.

Steven Newell
Littleton, CO USA
'62 TR4 x 2 etc.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Mar  7 23:54:18 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 23:54:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Racing Goodies Needed
References: <47D1C512.2060101@newellboys.com>
Message-ID: <001301c880e9$3b7f8f90$54f30818@rolofson>

Nope no clue.

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Steven Newell
  To: triumphs
  Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 3:43 PM
  Subject: [TR] Racing Goodies Needed


  Just got back to the list. Does anyone know where I can buy some racing
  goodies? Thx.

  Steven Newell
  Littleton, CO USA
  '62 TR4 x 2 etc.
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar  8 00:21:30 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 23:21:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] always turn the key off?
In-Reply-To: <00ab01c880c9$db726bf0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080308072130.FUPX19560.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> But assuming someday when I have my TR3A's Pertronix ignition 
> (negative grnd.
> version) installed, does this rule remain just as important?  
> Possibly less important?

Possibly More important, as Pertronix specifically warns against doing so.
Same problem as points; if the circuit is closed and the engine stopped,
then current is flowing constantly instead of only half the time, doubling
the average current.  The points, coil & Pertronix are all apt to overheat
under such treatment, but the Pertronix will likely melt first ... or at
least have a shortened lifetime.

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Mar  8 07:32:31 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 09:32:31 -0500
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
Message-ID: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc>

One of the Hemmings editors had his engine seize and is blaming it on using
synthetic oil in an engine that had previously only burned regular oil. The
car had 73,000 miles.....mostly all short trip miles. He said "The cylinder
head was covered, not in sludge but with hardened, baked oil. Worse was the
lifter valley area below the intake, as shown in the photo. According to
several sources, the synthetic oil eventually broke up the old, hardened
deposits (thanks to the original owner's short-trip driving style), which
then clogged all the oil galleys and oil pump, which then ruined the
bearings."

Read it all here (http://tinyurl.com/2l7f46) and double click the picture of
the head.....it really is pretty ugly what happened.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Mar  8 08:43:02 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 10:43:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
In-Reply-To: <001001c8812b$461e3220$d25a9660$@com>
References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<001001c8812b$461e3220$d25a9660$@com>
Message-ID: <000401c88133$1a1491d0$210110ac@bobspc>

BTW..........I have no opinion one way or the other about the use of
synthetics. I've used it in my "modern" cars but haven't used it in the TR6.
I just thought the pictures of the head were pretty cool. Talk about gunk.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Grant [mailto:grant at bowtie6.com] 
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 9:47 AM
To: 'Bob Danielson'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack'
Subject: RE: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage

And of course, synthetic oil will be blamed.  

It is not the fault of the oil.  On the contrary this goes to prove that
regular oil infrequently changed and driven for short distances will bake on
and create crud.  I am a firm believer in synthetics - I use Mobil1
exclusively.  I own several cars, some of them high mileage that have had no
problems whatsoever and have seen other engines taken apart that had used
Mobil1 exclusively.  The innards were perfectly clean even with high
mileage.

This debate I guess can take the same flavor that the whole brake fluid
debate takes.  There are some who hate it and others who don't.  I for one,
don't use regular oil and believe in the qualities of Mobil1.  I think that
the article blaming synthetics for the engine failure is a little tunnel
vision.  I subscribe to several Hemmings publications and read the articles
but I disagree with some of the views expressed.  This is one of them.

Your mileage may vary... 

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Sat Mar  8 11:29:28 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 10:29:28 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
In-Reply-To: <000401c88133$1a1491d0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<001001c8812b$461e3220$d25a9660$@com>
	<000401c88133$1a1491d0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <D187BA2F-D9BF-43D3-B88E-87EDD44AC2D4@sbcglobal.net>

I once changed the oil in my father-in -laws car since he was over at  
the house and I was changing the oil in my cars. His car was similar  
to the car in the article in that it too had low milage comprised  
almost entirely of short trips. I drained the oil and my highly  
chromed Snap On socket dropped into the hot oil. I retrieved the  
socket as I waited for the last of the oil to drain. The coat of oil  
on the socket was unbelievable. I couldn't get the gooey/tar like oil  
off the very slick socket with out using a solvent. I can only imagine  
what the inside of the engine must have looked like. It happened to be  
a Ford with a 289 that continued to run "fine" and was eventually  
traded in on another Ford.
Mike Denman


On Mar 8, 2008, at 7:43 AM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> BTW..........I have no opinion one way or the other about the use of
> synthetics. I've used it in my "modern" cars but haven't used it in  
> the TR6.
> I just thought the pictures of the head were pretty cool. Talk about  
> gunk.
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joseph Grant [mailto:grant at bowtie6.com]
> Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 9:47 AM
> To: 'Bob Danielson'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack'
> Subject: RE: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
>
> And of course, synthetic oil will be blamed.
>
> It is not the fault of the oil.  On the contrary this goes to prove  
> that
> regular oil infrequently changed and driven for short distances will  
> bake on
> and create crud.  I am a firm believer in synthetics - I use Mobil1
> exclusively.  I own several cars, some of them high mileage that  
> have had no
> problems whatsoever and have seen other engines taken apart that had  
> used
> Mobil1 exclusively.  The innards were perfectly clean even with high
> mileage.
>
> This debate I guess can take the same flavor that the whole brake  
> fluid
> debate takes.  There are some who hate it and others who don't.  I  
> for one,
> don't use regular oil and believe in the qualities of Mobil1.  I  
> think that
> the article blaming synthetics for the engine failure is a little  
> tunnel
> vision.  I subscribe to several Hemmings publications and read the  
> articles
> but I disagree with some of the views expressed.  This is one of them.
>
> Your mileage may vary...
>
> Joe
> '72 TR6 - CC77169
> http://www.bowtie6.com/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Mar  8 12:17:14 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 14:17:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] Flywheel Torque
Message-ID: <000001c88151$0630ba90$210110ac@bobspc>

I'm putting the flywheel back on and in checking the torque wrench settings
Hanes says 42 - 46 while Bentley, in one place says 75 and in another they
say 95. That's quite a range. Which do you use? And what are the tricks to
keeping everything from turning while you torque it down?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From ZinkZ10C at aol.com  Sat Mar  8 12:43:52 2008
From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 14:43:52 EST
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
Message-ID: <bdc.266d83cd.35044678@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/8/08 9:34:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

<< One of the Hemmings editors had his engine seize and is blaming it on using 
 synthetic oil in an engine that had previously only burned regular oil. >>

That article is garbage written my a amateur that has no clue of real world
auto mechanics.

The oil pump didn't " clog " nor did the motor "suddenly lost oil pressure
and started knocking. "  Small block Fords are noted for clogging the oil picku
p
and due to their soft bearings, slowly losing oil pressure and increasing
bearing knock. The motor probably had a start up knock when he purchased it but
didn't realize it.   This occurs regardless if the owner switched to synthetic
oil and isn't "proof that you shouldn't convert old engines to synthetic oil,
. . ".

Through the 80's and 90's I had rebearinged countless ( 40 + ? )  small Fords
after the pickup clogged.  The soft bearings wore rather than the crank
making for a repair that would last.

Don't be fooled by the plies of sludge in the cam valley, it is obvious the
owner scraped the area near the head gasket before removing the head. ( the
lifter tops are covered in sludge and there isn't a path for the push rods.)
This scraping makes the situation look worse than normal.

I've seen _far_ worse heads, at least you can see the valve springs.

This motor failed because of lack of maintenance, to a lesser extent it's
demise was hastened by the seemingly longer trips regardless of the oil used.
Another possibility is he changed the valve cover gaskets early on and scraped
the head sludge in to the motor, this kind of repair is also a common oil
pickup clogger.

Harold
**************
It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
Finance.
      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Sat Mar  8 14:56:19 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 16:56:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] Looking for Colin Grimes OR Late TR6 Head Wanted (slightly off
 topic)
Message-ID: <00a301c88167$3e133580$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>

Has anyone heard from Colin Grimes recently?  I was hoping to get a late TR6
head off him but I think he must still be touring the UK, and I'm now close to
the point where I need the head.

Does anyone have a late head (EGR style) that they are willing to part with
(I'll collect if you're in the MI, OH or IN area, or will pay postage if not).
I'd agreed to pay Colin $90 (he's Canadian so that might be $100US by now!).

Thanks,

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Mar  8 15:52:19 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 17:52:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] set available, NA individual
Message-ID: <00d401c8816f$1132bd30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

 I am about to order a brake pipe set for my TR3A from Moss or TRF.  Of
course, it contains more than half-a-dozen individual 'lines' or 'pipes'.  The
entire set is available for  about $124.  However, many of the individual
pieces are NA.  Why is this?  Any preference for venders?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sat Mar  8 15:59:41 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 17:59:41 EST
Subject: [TR] set available, NA individual
Message-ID: <d05.2affb86c.3504745d@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/8/2008 2:58:04 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:

I am  about to order a brake pipe set for my TR3A from Moss or TRF.   Of
course, it contains more than half-a-dozen individual 'lines' or  'pipes'.  
The
entire set is available for  about $124.   However, many of the individual
pieces are NA.  Why is this?  Any  preference for venders?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60  TR3



Not Available
or Not Applicable
In any event, its not in the kit.
 
Mike Moore  



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From tfansher at comcast.net  Sat Mar  8 18:18:19 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:18:19 -0500
Subject: [TR] set available, NA individual
References: <00d401c8816f$1132bd30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <001c01c88183$76cf5fe0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I used classic tube, they come preformed and are a good quality. There was 
some discussion on whether or not to get the stainless steel ones - much 
harder and therefore harder to seat in the connectors, but mine are fine now 
that I got a good set of tubing wrenches and really cranked down on them.
Tom
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 5:52 PM
Subject: [TR] set available, NA individual


> I am about to order a brake pipe set for my TR3A from Moss or TRF.  Of
> course, it contains more than half-a-dozen individual 'lines' or 'pipes'. 
> The
> entire set is available for  about $124.  However, many of the individual
> pieces are NA.  Why is this?  Any preference for venders?
>
> Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Sat Mar  8 18:33:21 2008
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:33:21 -0500
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <002901c88185$9090a090$016a33d8@CPQ12949640186>

Chuckle, had nothing to do with the synthetic oil, had to do with never 
changing the oil in the first place.  I've seen engines like that before, 
with less miles on them.  Invariably, the customer hadn't gotten around to 
changing the oil, for years on end.

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sat Mar  8 18:35:59 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 17:35:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803081735590.31256@hymn13.u.washington.edu>

Thanks, Jonmac!
   I have written to BMIHT to see if there is any hope of ferreting out the build record using the body-in-white number.
   In the meantime, I received a couple more data points for the TR4 body-in-white numbers (thanks to Steven Newell and Jeff Kimbrell):

CT 1798 L	ZS 17010
CT 5521 LO	ZS 16435
CT 15093 L	ZS 25136
CT 22326 L	ZS 44767
CT 25830 L	ZS 35743

   If I squint, I can imagine a correlation between commission number and body number, but it's not strong.  I guess this means that some bodies sat around for quite a while before being turned into cars... which may help explain the observed variation in the timing of certain body change points with respect to commission numbers.
   The surprising thing is that my number (ZS 010966) is the lowest - lower than some seriously early cars.  So, I'm throwing down the gauntlet:  Can anyone out there beat 10966?  :)
   (also, am I the only one with a leading zero?)

   Thanks again
-Nick Wolf
'62 TR4... or is it '61?


On Fri, 7 Mar 2008 19:20:05 -0000 standardtriumph at btinternet.com wrote:
> Nick Wolf wrote:
> 
> >   Seriously though, that is a great explanation of why the
> body-in-white numbers exist.  Now, can 
> > you tell us anything about what they mean?  Were they sequential, or 
> do they carry a date code, 
> > or... maybe just a string of random digits?
> 
> No, they were sequential but, like the commission number sequencing,
> the cars were often not built 
> sequentially.
> 
> >   Are there any records of these numbers?  (Piggott says no)
> 
> Unfortunately, Saint Piggot is not being totally accurate. Every body
> number was recorded on the 
> *production tally* card as a matter of course and procedure. But, as
> the commission number was the 
> governing data in terms of car build and despatch history, the body
> numbers were never recorded as 
> separate records in their own right. Therefore Piggot is partly
> correct but the records do exist, 
> though not in numerical sequence.
> 
> Jonmac

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sat Mar  8 18:48:04 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:48:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
In-Reply-To: <002901c88185$9090a090$016a33d8@CPQ12949640186>
References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<002901c88185$9090a090$016a33d8@CPQ12949640186>
Message-ID: <2BADA15A-8991-4515-8D9E-D809F401CB56@mindspring.com>

A friend of mine's father became a Jiffy Lube franchisee after his  
wife blew the engine in her Lincoln by not changing the oil for the  
first 40k miles.


Ashford Little
GTA Director
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sat Mar  8 18:58:31 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 17:58:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803081758310.31256@hymn13.u.washington.edu>

Hi again
   I need to back-pedal a bit.  It's looking more and more like the myth of the early (pre-CT5643) one-piece TR4 rear deck is busted.  Despite Mr. Piggott's statements to the contrary, I have now confirmed the existence of several early cars with manual boot prop rods AND three-piece rear decks, and I have yet to see a car with a seam missing.  My guess is that the three pieces comprising the rear deck were supplied as a pre-assembled unit at first, and later as separate pieces... but it looks the same either way once they're installed.

-Nick Wolf
'62? TR4

On Tue, 4 Mar 2008 17:47:05 EST TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:
>  
> In a message dated 3/4/2008 5:28:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
> nwolf at u.washington.edu writes:
> 
> Does CT  5521 LO also have the 3-piece rear deck panel that
> (supposedly) came 
> in with  the sliding boot prop rod?  Going along the rear fender bead
> from  
> taillight to cockpit, you should see either one seam (early) or two
> (late).
> 
> 
> Yeah Boy It does.  So does the 63.  That's a new one for me.  Thanks I 
> will 
> look for that during any research on Early TR4's.  
> Darrell

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Mar  8 19:00:19 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:00:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc><002901c88185$9090a090$016a33d8@CPQ12949640186>
	<2BADA15A-8991-4515-8D9E-D809F401CB56@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <001101c88189$77075110$800101df@garage.local>

heard a story today about a guy calling on a used car.  the person said it 
was a good, reliable car, and hadn't needed an oil change for 100,000 miles 
. . .

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
To: "Nolan" <foxtrapper at aceweb.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage


>A friend of mine's father became a Jiffy Lube franchisee after his
> wife blew the engine in her Lincoln by not changing the oil for the
> first 40k miles.
>
>
> Ashford Little
> GTA Director
> 6-Pack Membership Secretary
> '70 TR6 

From triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar  8 20:01:56 2008
From: triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com (Chad)
Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 19:01:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
Message-ID: <115822.79609.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

What a bunch of bunk.  That old engine was destined to die due to previous years of mistreatment.
The synthetic oil had nothing to do with it.  I'm surprised Lentinello would write something so preposterous.

Just putting in regular changes of a high detergent oil would have the same effect.  I get really tired of hearing
people blame synthetics for problems that are really due to neglect or mistreatment.

Soapbox mode: off.

Chad

-----------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 09:32:31 -0500
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac at bobspc>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

One of the Hemmings editors had his engine seize and is blaming it on using
synthetic oil in an engine that had previously only burned regular oil. The
car had 73,000 miles.....mostly all short trip miles. He said "The cylinder
head was covered, not in sludge but with hardened, baked oil. Worse was the
lifter valley area below the intake, as shown in the photo. According to
several sources, the synthetic oil eventually broke up the old, hardened
deposits (thanks to the original owner's short-trip driving style), which
then clogged all the oil galleys and oil pump, which then ruined the
bearings."

Read it all here (http://tinyurl.com/2l7f46) and double click the picture of
the head.....it really is pretty ugly what happened.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Mar  9 05:18:58 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 08:18:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
Message-ID: <bf2.29264c2c.35052fb2@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
bratt at sasktel.net writes:

A local  mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on resalable 
cars  by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for a 
few  hundred miles.  The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the  
accumulated crud and sludge.  I figured that would be pretty had on  the 
bearings and cylinder walls.



What say the list?  Lots of LBC owners have switched to  Shell Rotella for 
the ZDDP.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Mar  9 09:01:40 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 08:01:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage,
 Oil is killing our  cars! article
References: <bf2.29264c2c.35052fb2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002e01c881fe$dd29a770$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

This subject was kicked around about 6 months ago.
Some ZDDP information and using diesel engine rated oil.
http://www.svmgcc.org/tech_tips/oil_is_killing.htm
Regards,
Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <bratt at sasktel.net>; <JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu>;
<75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 4:18 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage


> In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> bratt at sasktel.net writes:
>
> A local  mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on
resalable
> cars  by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for
a
> few  hundred miles.  The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the
> accumulated crud and sludge.  I figured that would be pretty had on  the
> bearings and cylinder walls.
>
>
>
> What say the list?  Lots of LBC owners have switched to  Shell Rotella for
> the ZDDP.
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
> **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
> Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Mar  9 06:42:41 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 09:42:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <cd6.27672417.35054351@aol.com>

Nick,
Just a side issue on CT 5521 LO.  It was a CKD car originally  dispatched to 
Belgium according to  BMIHT.  It also has no body  number!  Zip! The previous 
owner who bought it from the original owner  claims it never had a tag either, 
just the holes where the tag should be.   BMIHT claims the Body # was not 
recorded so they are no help.   As I said previously this car breaks all the 
rules, I gave up a long time  ago.
Cheers.
Darrell



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  9 07:18:54 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:18:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] Flywheel Torque
In-Reply-To: <000001c88151$0630ba90$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c88151$0630ba90$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W34AB20BF986C0CF4F72BE2E50D0@phx.gbl>

there is a tool for holding the flywheel while you torque the bolts.  It is a
handle with a long rectanguler strap on it.  The handle has a "blade" on the
end the strop attaches to.  You put the blade into one of the ring gear slots
and the small end of the strao into another and pull while you torgue the
bolts.

I generally use a screw driver against the bell housing locating studs.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Mar  9 07:21:39 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 14:21:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
Message-ID: <030920081421.29619.47D3F2730000BBFB000073B322155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

I agree cause was likely not changing the oil.  But I do wonder about various qualities of oil, and their propensity to leave sludge behind.  Do I recall there was some discussion a few times in the past about Castrol GTX leaving deposits that foul the engine?

Terry Smith, TR3A (TS 58667)
New Hampshire, where the record snow means a late oil change and run date this spring.

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Nolan" <foxtrapper at aceweb.com> 

> Chuckle, had nothing to do with the synthetic oil, had to do with never 
> changing the oil in the first place. I've seen engines like that before, 
> with less miles on them. Invariably, the customer hadn't gotten around to 
> changing the oil, for years on end. 

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  9 07:28:44 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:28:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] set available, NA individual
In-Reply-To: <00d401c8816f$1132bd30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00d401c8816f$1132bd30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W41BFF63B02B839E8585110E50D0@phx.gbl>

The last time I ordered a brake line from Moss they sent me a piece of copper
refrigerator line.  Use TRF, their lines are steel and pre-bent to original
dimensions.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your
"fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx

From coefront at shaw.ca  Sun Mar  9 07:53:51 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 08:53:51 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 Model
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDCEPACPAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Hi:

Please include the following.

Looking for a TR6 model please. Size 1.18 or there about. Mike.
coefront at shaw.ca

Mike Coe


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
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12:17 PM

From coefront at shaw.ca  Sun Mar  9 07:58:52 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 08:58:52 -0600
Subject: [TR] FW: TR6 Model
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDIEPACPAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Kindly replace with the following.


Hi:

Please include the following.



 Model search. Looking for a TR6 model please. Size 1.18 or there about.
Mike. coefront at shaw.ca

Mike Coe

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Mar  9 07:58:52 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:58:52 -0000
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
References: <cd6.27672417.35054351@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c881f6$17fe7870$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Darrell

If CT5521LO was built in Belgium, then the commission number *should* be
1CT5521LO. Maybe the original was never fitted or got changed at some later
date? The 1 prefix was applied to all Mechelen built cars to identy them as
Belgian build.

As for the absence of the body number, this isn't surprising either. Whether
shipped out of Coventry as CKD or SKD, all the Coventry supplied components
were shipped in a huge timber crate and referred to on the shipping manifest,
Certificate of Origin and final invoice as Batch X of Z Batches. Furthermore,
it was common with certain overseas assembly plants (but not all) to not
attach a body number or any other component with serial numbers. This gave a
convenient degree of *latitude* in the interpetation of how much of the
finished vehicle was of 'local content' by volume or by value. Essentially,
the higher the local content, the lower the import duty.

BMIHT (in the person of Anders Clausager, now with Jaguar) told me more than
once that Triumph build records for CKD/SKD shipments were never recovered
from the factory prior to demolition. Consequently, the number of cars built
in total at Coventry is probably about 75-80% of all builds around the world
and the company did have 12 overseas assembly plants apart from Coventry.

As for your last sentence, beware of rules. Rules are to be broken and when it
comes to UK motor vehicles the one thing that was always constant, was change
:)

Jonmac
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: TR250Driver at aol.com
  To: nwolf at u.washington.edu ; standardtriumph at btinternet.com
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 1:42 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number


  Nick,
  Just a side issue on CT 5521 LO.  It was a CKD car originally dispatched to
Belgium according to  BMIHT.  It also has no body number!  Zip! The previous
owner who bought it from the original owner claims it never had a tag either,
just the holes where the tag should be.   BMIHT claims the Body # was not
recorded so they are no help.  As I said previously this car breaks all the
rules, I gave up a long time ago.
  Cheers.
  Darrell





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance.

From coefront at shaw.ca  Sun Mar  9 08:03:55 2008
From: coefront at shaw.ca (Mike Coe)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 09:03:55 -0600
Subject: [TR] Poor idle TR8
Message-ID: <KDEFJMKHGNKPGNBPGCPDAEPBCPAA.coefront@shaw.ca>

Hi:

Please include the following;

Rough idle. My TR8 idles rough after warming up off EFi. Can anyone assist
me in suggestion of correction please. Mike. coefront at shaw.ca

Mike Coe


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.518 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1322 - Release Date: 09/03/2008
12:17 PM

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Sun Mar  9 08:26:14 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 15:26:14 +0000
Subject: [TR] oil out breather?
Message-ID: <C9721EA5-5684-4210-BEB5-621EA7B4132E@tcd.ie>

Hi all, got my carbs back from Burlen after full re-build, very  
pleased BTW, fitted up and set up to run, I have noticed a drop in oil  
pressure which was 50psi at tick over, now down to about 15 when fully  
warm, looking around I noticed a very small pool of oil under the  
engine breather pipe, does this suggest any particular condition, this  
is an engine that has yet to go on the road, all running has been in  
the garage to date.
1954 TR2
regards
John

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sun Mar  9 08:58:21 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 11:58:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <d1b.1f08fbef.3505631d@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/9/2008 11:01:07 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

If  CT5521LO was built in Belgium, then the commission number *should* be  
1CT5521LO.


John,
Very interesting. Thanks for the rundown on CKD cars.  Excuse me but  what is 
SKD?  I am going to say that CT5521LO is indeed that with no 1  before the 
commission #.  The plate has the appearance of being original to  the car. The 
Heritage Certificate says "Dispatched to Belgium". I received  a letter of 
apology from them referring to the car as CKD with no body #  recorded.  
The story behind the original owner was that he was a USA serviceman  serving 
overseas and the car was shipped from Belgium to Florida, USA for the  Tax 
advantages. Any truth to that?
Thank You,
Darrell



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Mar  9 09:08:26 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 09:08:26 -0700
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <d1b.1f08fbef.3505631d@aol.com>
References: <d1b.1f08fbef.3505631d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001c881ff$cf66e610$0302a8c0@newcomputer>

If CKD means "Completely Knocked Down", I have to think that SKD would mean
"Sorts Knocked Down".  :)

Joe C.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 8:58 AM
To: standardtriumph at btinternet.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number

In a message dated 3/9/2008 11:01:07 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

If  CT5521LO was built in Belgium, then the commission number *should* be  
1CT5521LO.


John,
Very interesting. Thanks for the rundown on CKD cars.  Excuse me but  what
is 
SKD?  I am going to say that CT5521LO is indeed that with no 1  before the 
commission #.  The plate has the appearance of being original to  the car.
The 
Heritage Certificate says "Dispatched to Belgium". I received  a letter of 
apology from them referring to the car as CKD with no body #  recorded.  
The story behind the original owner was that he was a USA serviceman
serving 
overseas and the car was shipped from Belgium to Florida, USA for the  Tax 
advantages. Any truth to that?
Thank You,
Darrell



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From acs25m at swbell.net  Sun Mar  9 09:21:06 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 09:21:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] set available, NA individual
Message-ID: <184649.38549.qm@web81604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Tom, 
  TRF's brake lines are steel as I have ordrered some from them last year. They don't come prebent unless you order them that way. It costs an extra $6 a piece for the prebent lines.
  John Maneke

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sun Mar  9 09:55:23 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 08:55:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] set available, NA individual
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W41BFF63B02B839E8585110E50D0@phx.gbl>
References: <00d401c8816f$1132bd30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<BAY110-W41BFF63B02B839E8585110E50D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <47D4167B.8050401@razzolink.com>

tom white wrote:
> The last time I ordered a brake line from Moss they sent me a piece of copper
> refrigerator line.  Use TRF, their lines are steel and pre-bent to original
> dimensions.


Its really easy to make your own.

Rovers North in Vermont stocks the UK brake line fittings and our cars
take standard double fittings.  So just buy whatever fittings you need &
make your own.

I did my 1961 TR3 with stainless steel brake lines which are much harder
to bend.

I converted my 1960 Land Rover over to dual power brakes using regular
steel brake lines.  I purchased those standard straight lengths of made
up brake tubing from my local auto parts store, removed one flare and
the U.S. fittings, slid on a UK fitting for the end that still has the
flare, bend to shape, cut to length, added the other fitting & made a
double flare.

Perfect length. perfect shape.

Teriann

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sun Mar  9 10:00:23 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 09:00:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage,
 Oil is killing  our cars! article
In-Reply-To: <002e01c881fe$dd29a770$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <bf2.29264c2c.35052fb2@aol.com>
	<002e01c881fe$dd29a770$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <47D417A7.2010607@razzolink.com>

Bob wrote:
> This subject was kicked around about 6 months ago.
> Some ZDDP information and using diesel engine rated oil.
> http://www.svmgcc.org/tech_tips/oil_is_killing.htm

I've also noticed that Redline is now selling an oil treatment with ZDDP.

www.britishpacific.com/BPSite/LandRoverAccessories/Land_Rover_fluids.html#ZDDP

Teriann

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Mar  9 11:12:33 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 12:12:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] $4,100 collected so far - need updates
In-Reply-To: <001601c87a8a$afb55030$800101df@garage.local>
References: <001601c87a8a$afb55030$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <47D42891.2000203@tscusa.org>

Oliver wrote:
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
>
> thank you to all of you!   I think there's a Stag in JonMac's future . . .
>
>   
Hi David,

How is the Stag Restoration pledge collection coming along??  It should 
be over the $4100 from a few weeks ago (unless your Honda is running 
better!  ;-)   )

The Stag is being picked up today by the ISOA crew in Indianapolis, 9 
March 2008, provided of course they are not completely snowed in from 
the winter storms.

Also, we have a potential donor for the 4 speed OD setup out of New 
Mexico, in fact, a whole car provided it can get from Edgewood  NM to 
Hampshire Illinois.  There are a few people stepping up to leap frog 
this parts car to Illinois.  If interested, contact David Graham, TSC 
USA Central Atlantic Region Director at grahamda at charter.net

thanks!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA 2009 North American Coordination Team
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  9 11:38:03 2008
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:38:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rubber steering coupling
Message-ID: <BAY117-DAV65B4478EF9AACA2C963E19F0D0@phx.gbl>

Hi Everyone,

            Im trying to fit a new rubber coupling to the steering shaft of
my TR6.  There are two problems.  One is that the replacement from TRF is
counter sunk for cap bolts on both sides of the coupling instead of one as
original, and the second is that the holes line up as about < inch too far
apart.  Has any one else had this difficulty, and does any one know a source
for this part that is made accurately?

            I knew things were going too smoothly




Bob Rochlin


72 TR6

From bjzwissler at comcast.net  Sun Mar  9 11:39:17 2008
From: bjzwissler at comcast.net (Ben Zwissler)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:39:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 116
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1205089201.20704.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8335B6F8319548C78D73128F3EC97A42@LivingRoomPC>

John,

Depending on how long you've run it in the garage, the small pool of oil is
normal.  Breather tubes drip oil.  High blowby from worn piston rings will
cause a higher rate of dripping, but a "very small" pool sounds normal.
Diesel trucks just began adding closed crankcase ventilation systems in
Model Year 2007.  People who didn't want drips put catch pails at the end of
their tube. The breather pipe drips are a major reason for the darker stripe
down the middle of interstates.  Millions of drips from engines....

Has your engine been rebuilt lately?  If not, its likely its "tired" and in
need of new main bearings.  Low oil pressure is the primary symptom of worn
bearings.  It could also be a pump or regulator problem, but that's less
likely.  Sometime running 20W50 oil will allow you to postpone a rebuild for
a while.

If you have had it rebuilt, was the oil pressure regulator disassembled?  If
so, you'll need to reset the regulator spring pressure.  When I did my
rebuild I had too high oil pressure which caused a healthy leak from the
rear main bearing seal.  I have a TR4A and I'm not sure how the TR2 was
configured but there should be an adjustment screw somewhere on the filter
housing.

If none of the above applies, another cause of low pressure is dilution of
the oil with gasoline.  Did you do some running with very rich mixtures
while adjusting the carbs?  Have the float bowls set too high so gas ran
down the intake into the cylinders?  If so, change the oil and see what you
get.

Good luck.

Ben Zwissler
bjzwissler at comcast.net
Columbus, IN
1966 TR-4A IRS
1980 TR-8
2003 Honda ST1300


Message: 7
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 15:26:14 +0000
From: John Gillis <jgillis at tcd.ie>
Subject: [TR] oil out breather?
To: Triumph List <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>
Message-ID: <C9721EA5-5684-4210-BEB5-621EA7B4132E at tcd.ie>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes

Hi all, got my carbs back from Burlen after full re-build, very
pleased BTW, fitted up and set up to run, I have noticed a drop in oil
pressure which was 50psi at tick over, now down to about 15 when fully
warm, looking around I noticed a very small pool of oil under the
engine breather pipe, does this suggest any particular condition, this
is an engine that has yet to go on the road, all running has been in
the garage to date.
1954 TR2
regards
John

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Mar  9 12:00:27 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 19:00:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] oil out breather?
Message-ID: <030920081900.8668.47D433CB000B5ECC000021DC22007343640B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>

I'm certainly not the expert here (hopefully Randall will pitch in), but a pressure of 15 at idle when warm wouldn't concern me, so long as it pops back up when it's needed, ie. when you put the engine under load.  My TR3 does exactly the same thing (and I have the pool of oil too).

Andrew Uprichard

P.S. Regarding the time capsule TR3 on eBay ($33,000 and climbing), just wait - everyone is now going to wax eloquent when they list their cars.

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: John Gillis <jgillis at tcd.ie>
> Hi all, got my carbs back from Burlen after full re-build, very  
> pleased BTW, fitted up and set up to run, I have noticed a drop in oil  
> pressure which was 50psi at tick over, now down to about 15 when fully  
> warm, looking around I noticed a very small pool of oil under the  
> engine breather pipe, does this suggest any particular condition, this  
> is an engine that has yet to go on the road, all running has been in  
> the garage to date.
> 1954 TR2
> regards
> John
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar  9 13:04:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 12:04:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
In-Reply-To: <030920081421.29619.47D3F2730000BBFB000073B322155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080309190433.WYUT23786.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Do I recall there was some 
> discussion a few times in the past about Castrol GTX leaving 
> deposits that foul the engine?

That was certainly my experience; but was a long time ago so perhaps the
formula has improved over the years.  I also had trouble with viscosity
breakdown, where 20W50 would become thin as water when hot, after just a few
thousand miles (leading me to surmise that the deposits were the viscosity
improver additive).  Don't recall how long I ran Castrol (changing it when
it got too thin), but when I did tear that engine down, there was a thick
layer of gray sludge in the pan, and in the rocker shaft.  Switched to
Valvoline then and never saw that kind of sludge again.

Somewhat more recently (but still over 10 years ago), I decided to try
Castrol again since so many others say it works well for them (and because
the Valvoline I had been using became hard to find for some reason, while
Castrol was everywhere).  Although I didn't tear the engine down to find out
why, it went from using about 1 qt/5000 miles to about 1/1000 in the space
of two oil changes !  I don't plan to try Castrol again...

BTW, switching to Valvoline full synthetic lowered the oil consumption back
to about 1/4000; and the engine ran another 100,000 miles (roughly, odo
broke) before another ill-considered experiment with lubrication resulted in
a snapped crankshaft.  (That GM V6 was known for having a weak crank, but
after some 250,000 miles I don't really have a complaint.)  But I won't be
trying Rislone again, either.

YMMV and all that.  Obviously these were not rigorous tests, so they don't
really prove anything.  Just what happened to me.

Randall

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sun Mar  9 12:22:26 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 11:22:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] set available, NA individual
In-Reply-To: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPGEPCEMAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
References: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPGEPCEMAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>
Message-ID: <47D438F2.2030807@razzolink.com>

Dave Connitt wrote:
> TeriAnn,
> That is an excellent idea reusing the old brake fittings on new lines! It
> sure beats paying north of 100 dollars for all new lines.
> This list never ceases to amaze me.


And if you old fittings are grungy you can buy brand new bare fittings.

Most of those premade tubes are "universal fit that come rolled up. 
They are never exactly the right length and you will never get really 
straight lengths after unrolling them.  I only went North of $100 when I 
decided to use stainless steel and I didn't go all that far North since 
I made them up myself.  If I was building for concourse I would have had 
to paint over the lines but instead I polished those in the engine bay. 
That was about 12 years ago and they are still bright and shiny.

The only problem is that Stainless is hard & it is really hard to make a 
decent double flare with standard flaring tools.

Teriann

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Sun Mar  9 12:29:03 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 15:29:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil out breather?
Message-ID: <d19.213dee73.3505947f@aol.com>

John,
Oil pressure at idle seems more normal at 15# than 50# and your oil drip at 
breather pipe - well, seems a little early to tell if a problem... (might 
always have a drip or two). I believe the way the internal engine air circulation 
works is air is sucked into top of motor thru gauze cap and blown (albeit 
slightly) down and out the side crankcase 'draft' tube.. I think the spinning 
crankshaft creates this vacuum and expelling action. At road speed the under-car 
draft also helps draw out crankcase gasses. I'd think you're bound to get a drip 
or two with the oil mist inside being so close to the draft tube. TR4 draft 
tubes are designed to minimize oil loss and have a little baffle inside - not 
sure about your earlier version.
Carl
-------------------
Hi all, got my carbs back from Burlen after full re-build, very  
pleased BTW, fitted up and set up to run, I have noticed a drop in oil  
pressure which was 50psi at tick over, now down to about 15 when fully  
warm, looking around I noticed a very small pool of oil under the  
engine breather pipe, does this suggest any particular condition, this  
is an engine that has yet to go on the road, all running has been in  
the garage to date.
1954 TR2
regards
John<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice 
on AOL Money & Finance.<BR>      
(http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)</HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar  9 13:42:19 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 12:42:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] oil out breather?
In-Reply-To: <C9721EA5-5684-4210-BEB5-621EA7B4132E@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <20080309194220.OPOY24323.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> I have noticed 
> a drop in oil pressure which was 50psi at tick over, now down 
> to about 15 when fully warm, looking around I noticed a very 
> small pool of oil under the engine breather pipe, does this 
> suggest any particular condition,

John, I would be looking closely at the oil, for possible contamination with
water or fuel.  15 psi at hot idle is quite normal for a well-worn engine,
but somewhat distressing for a freshly rebuilt one; suggestive of very thin
oil as might be caused by contamination.  Likewise the oil dripping from the
breather tube is pretty normal for an old, tired engine; but more than a
drop or two is cause for concern with a freshly rebuilt one, IMO.

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Mar  9 13:14:43 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 16:14:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rubber steering coupling
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-DAV65B4478EF9AACA2C963E19F0D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-DAV65B4478EF9AACA2C963E19F0D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001801c88222$394c74b0$210110ac@bobspc>

Bud,
I got my replacement rubber from Ted Schumacher and I just checked
it.....same as yours. Two countersunk holes on both sides. My original only
had the countersunk holes on 1 side. I've been told that the best way to put
it back on is to get 2 bolts in and then use a big old hose clamp to squeeze
it to get the other two holes to line up. My engine and tranny go back in
this week, so I'll get to the rubber coupling after that. Did you replace
your bushings too?


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Rochlin
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 2:38 PM
To: Triumphs
Subject: [TR] Rubber steering coupling

Hi Everyone,

            Im trying to fit a new rubber coupling to the steering shaft of
my TR6.  There are two problems.  One is that the replacement from TRF is
counter sunk for cap bolts on both sides of the coupling instead of one as
original, and the second is that the holes line up as about < inch too far
apart.  Has any one else had this difficulty, and does any one know a source
for this part that is made accurately?

            I knew things were going too smoothly




Bob Rochlin


72 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Mar  9 13:59:41 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 15:59:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rubber steering coupling
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-DAV65B4478EF9AACA2C963E19F0D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-DAV65B4478EF9AACA2C963E19F0D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200803091559.41273.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 09 March 2008 01:38 pm, Bob Rochlin wrote:
> Hi Everyone,
>
>             Im trying to fit a new rubber coupling to the steering shaft
> of my TR6.  There are two problems.  One is that the replacement from TRF
> is counter sunk for cap bolts on both sides of the coupling instead of one
> as original, and the second is that the holes line up as about < inch too
> far apart.  Has any one else had this difficulty, and does any one know a
> source for this part that is made accurately?
>
>             I knew things were going too smoothly
>
>
>
>
> Bob Rochlin
>
>
> 72 TR6
Bob,

THe new rubber fittings are made that way, just about 1/2 " to large.

The idea is you have to clamp the fitting to do the install.

I used a simple adjustable clamp and it only took a few turns to line up the 
bolt holes.

THe idea here is when you release the clamp, the extra tension will make a 
better fit.

Bob

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Mar  9 13:15:31 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 16:15:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rubber steering coupling
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-DAV65B4478EF9AACA2C963E19F0D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-DAV65B4478EF9AACA2C963E19F0D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CA5039756A0DF7-1630-1CB0@webmail-me11.sysops.aol.com>

 Bob,

I bought my replacement from TRF and was able to use it on my car.? I am not sure of what you are referring to regarding both sides vs. one side being countersunk.? If mine came from TRF wrong I didnt notice.? 

As for the second problem, congrats, you have discovered one of the real PITA repairs on the TR6.? The first two bolts go in just fine and then the fun begins.? What I found worked was to buy a large hose clamp, put it around the outside of the coupling and tighten it until it holds the coupling the appropriate distance apart so that the last two bolts can be fitted.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Rochlin <r_rochlin at hotmail.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 2:38 pm
Subject: [TR] Rubber steering coupling










Hi Everyone,

            Im trying to fit a new rubber coupling to the steering shaft of
my TR6.  There are two problems.  One is that the replacement from TRF is
counter sunk for cap bolts on both sides of the coupling instead of one as
original, and the second is that the holes line up as about < inch too far
apart.  Has any one else had this difficulty, and does any one know a source
for this part that is made accurately?

            I knew things were going too smoothly




Bob Rochlin


72 TR6

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Mar  9 14:08:31 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 17:08:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thanks, starter disassembled
Message-ID: <47D4198F.14705.67E4050@localhost>

A few weeks ago I asked about the aging potential of starters and 
received a substantial answer, yes they did age and yes replacing of 
components was often the answer.  The weather being nice today here 
in the northeast, which is to say that it is neither raining nor 
snowing though it is cool and very windy, I got the Spitfire's 
starter removed and disassembled.  Sure enough, the brushes were 
quite worn away.  One was so far gone, literally gone into oblivion, 
that the attached cable prevented it from standing proud of the 
insulating holder.

So a new set of brushes is now on order.  With sufficient time and 
good weather the Spitfire will be running again soon.

I've never had occasion to disassemble a starter.  Had to replace 
brushes on a Porshe 912 generator once but that was over 30 years 
ago.  Can't say I've ever had occasion to use the 5/32in box-end 
wrench before either, at least none that I remember.  Working on an 
old LBC sure is fun though.

Thanks all.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Sun Mar  9 17:38:12 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 17:38:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] 60 TR3A - door seal furflex
Message-ID: <E275FC5A-A2BF-4ED5-9E7D-ED3254BADB44@cox.net>

Where does the door seal furflex  (Moss # 249-807) go on my car 1960  
TR3??

I  normally think of such a piece of trim as being between the body &  
the door.  But I think I have seen on the inside of the car.  Where  
does it go??

John

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From suhringtr36 at comcast.net  Sun Mar  9 17:39:10 2008
From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:39:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
Message-ID: <000801c88247$28a74980$d7463b47@Scott>

Has anyone bought the replacement gas tank for the pre-60001 TR3? Mine has
several a leaks (I had it tested 4 years ago and the shop said it was fine),
the one I bought from a club member leaks worse and the one I pulled this AM
is from a later model that will not fit (no comments from the peanut
gallery). I have two more chances with tanks that need pulled from outside
parts cars, but since Moss has a 20% sale that I would hit with the purchase
of a tank, I wanted to see how the quality is. Does it have all the holes in
the correct spots (filler neck, drain, fuel line, vent and sending unit)?
Does it fit properly in the tight space with the shelf? TIA

Scott Suhring
Mechanicsburg, PA
'70 TR6
'59 TR3

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Mar  9 17:48:17 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:48:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Why not FLAPS brake lines?
Message-ID: <00fd01c88248$6eca7f80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Why not just get british-style brake line from the local auto parts store? It
comes with the correct fittings and flares.  I plan to replace all the brake
line.

When I attempted my brake lines last time, I didn't know about British flares!
I got them to tighten up ok, but of course, they didn't work!!!  Of course, my
car is inopperable.

I already know the correct lenth of the individual lines, and I've got a brake
line bender that makes good gentle bends.  I don't know why Stainless steel
lines are necessary?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Sun Mar  9 17:57:32 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:57:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <c47.2ee1a424.3505e17c@aol.com>

In a  message dated 3/9/2008 11:01:07 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,   
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

If  CT5521LO was built  in Belgium, then the commission number *should* be   
1CT5521LO.



==AM==
I have no documentation other than my own observations over the years, but  I 
was under the impression that the prefix numbers for various CKD assembly  
locales came a bit later, so there might NOT be a leading "1" on an early CKD  
TR4? Also, some Belgian-assembled cars apparently had a leading "B" in the  
commission number, but I don't know when that might have occurred, either.  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From spitlist at cox.net  Sun Mar  9 18:09:06 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 18:09:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <c47.2ee1a424.3505e17c@aol.com>
References: <c47.2ee1a424.3505e17c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000401c8824b$569d8120$0302a8c0@newcomputer>

>From studying Spitfires I can safely say that the earliest Mk1's were marked
with The B prefix to indicate that they were assembled in Belgium.  That was
replaced with the 1 prefix some time in 1964 somewhere around serial number
39000.  But the interesting thing is that the 2 prefix for cars assembled in
Australia and the 4 prefix for cars assembled in South Africa were begun
being used while the B prefix for Belgium was still in use.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
ZoboHerald at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 5:58 PM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number

In a  message dated 3/9/2008 11:01:07 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,   
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

If  CT5521LO was built  in Belgium, then the commission number *should* be

1CT5521LO.



==AM==
I have no documentation other than my own observations over the years, but
I 
was under the impression that the prefix numbers for various CKD assembly  
locales came a bit later, so there might NOT be a leading "1" on an early
CKD  
TR4? Also, some Belgian-assembled cars apparently had a leading "B" in the  
commission number, but I don't know when that might have occurred, either.  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
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From dmnlaw at peoplepc.com  Sun Mar  9 18:12:26 2008
From: dmnlaw at peoplepc.com (dmnlaw)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 21:12:26 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 "Clanky" rearend
Message-ID: <12181740.1205111546651.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

After placing my TR6 on the road this past December I have been driving and sorting out various issues. I am now focused on the differential. When I start in first or reverse gear (from dead stop) the differential clanks. All u-joints are new. Differential mounts are in good shape also. With a tire off I can rotate either axle about 5 to 6 degrees before the propshaft engages. If I do it fast I get the annoying metallic clank. On the highway all is fine - no whining, grinding or anything like that. Is this just a LBC issue that I need to get use to or am I looking at a rebuild. Thanks.

Doug Nelson
74 TR6

________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sun Mar  9 18:27:19 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:27:19 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
Message-ID: <11751419.1205112439593.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Scott,

As an alternative, I have used Renu with excellent results.  There are dealers across the USA.  Check the website below:

http://www.gastankrenu.com/index.htm

Regards,
Greg Perry

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sun Mar  9 18:34:08 2008
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 18:34:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
References: <000801c88247$28a74980$d7463b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <000c01c8824f$4a34ca20$8701a8c0@Dell>

Scott,
I didn't get the Moss fuel tank, but I did buy one from Jorge Cervera.  He 
sells direct and through eBay. He is currently posting them at a Buy it Now 
price of under $200, less than half of what Moss is selling them for.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRIUMPH-TR3-A-or-B-FUEL-TANK-NEW-ON-SALE_W0QQitemZ320223097949QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320223097949

I do have the early style, feed in the center. Quality was excellant, 
installation was no more difficult than trying to install an original, at 
least as far as I know.   I did paint it before I installed it, it came 
primered as far as I remember.

NFI,
Bob 

From wbeech at flash.net  Sun Mar  9 19:37:46 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:37:46 -0600
Subject: [TR] Why not FLAPS brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <00fd01c88248$6eca7f80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00fd01c88248$6eca7f80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <001501c88257$ba9d0f40$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Paul,

>From what FLAPS are you finding these British brake lines?.

List,
I think I have removed all my brake lines carefully during last year's
tear-down.  Is there any logical reason I cannot/should not clean, paint &
re-install them?

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dorpaul
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 6:48 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] Why not FLAPS brake lines?

Why not just get british-style brake line from the local auto parts store?
It comes with the correct fittings and flares.  I plan to replace all the
brake line.

When I attempted my brake lines last time, I didn't know about British
flares!
I got them to tighten up ok, but of course, they didn't work!!!  Of course,
my car is inopperable.

I already know the correct lenth of the individual lines, and I've got a
brake line bender that makes good gentle bends.  I don't know why Stainless
steel lines are necessary?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey  60 TR3
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
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You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Sun Mar  9 19:46:36 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 19:46:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rubber steering coupling
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4209.1205113113.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <021001c88258$f609f600$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Bob,

I bought mine (for my 4a) from British Parts Norhtwest. Great price and well
made. I had to use clamps and a lot of strength to get them in, but the end
result is a great fit and tight steering. I'd recommend checking out BPNW.

BTW - make sure to change the column bushings too!

Brian
'67 4a

------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:38:03 -0400
From: "Bob Rochlin" <r_rochlin at hotmail.com>
Subject: [TR] Rubber steering coupling
To: "Triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY117-DAV65B4478EF9AACA2C963E19F0D0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi Everyone,

            Im trying to fit a new rubber coupling to the steering shaft of
my TR6.  There are two problems.  One is that the replacement from TRF is
counter sunk for cap bolts on both sides of the coupling instead of one as
original, and the second is that the holes line up as about < inch too far
apart.  Has any one else had this difficulty, and does any one know a source
for this part that is made accurately?

            I knew things were going too smoothly




Bob Rochlin


72 TR6

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sun Mar  9 19:52:41 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 21:52:41 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] TR6
Message-ID: <8012069.1205117561930.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Doug,

I have two schools of thought on this one.  First, what condition are the splines on the half shafts and the condition of the yokes that hold the bearing caps?  Second, It is common for the differential to have play/ slop as you stated below when well used.  My differential has had the excessive play/ slop for a long time.  It does not whine, grind or leave me stranded, but it does leak!  I did find a rebuilt diff that I put in and it whines and does not leak!  But the clicks that I hear now are from the worn half shaft(s).  The diff mounts, u joints and hubs have been replaced or repaired in the past. I just consider the clicks/ clunks normal now.  It is not going to leave me stranded.
Regards,  Greg Perry
-----Original Message-----
>From: dmnlaw <dmnlaw at peoplepc.com>
>Subject: [TR] TR6 "Clanky" rearend
 When I start in first or reverse gear (from dead stop) the differential clanks. All u-joints are new. Differential mounts are in good shape also. With a tire off I can rotate either axle about 5 to 6 degrees before the propshaft engages. If I do it fast I get the annoying metallic clank. On the highway all is fine - no whining, grinding or anything like that. Is this just a LBC issue that I need to get use to or am I looking at a rebuild. Thanks.
>Doug Nelson
>74 TR6

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sun Mar  9 20:41:48 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 19:41:48 -0800
Subject: [TR] Why not FLAPS brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <00fd01c88248$6eca7f80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <00fd01c88248$6eca7f80$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <47D4ADFC.50409@razzolink.com>

dorpaul wrote:
> Why not just get british-style brake line from the local auto parts store?

I have never seen a british-style brake line at any of my local auto 
parts store.  Just the North American style.


>  I don't know why Stainless steel
> lines are necessary?

No, they are not necessary. When I replaced the brake lines in the TR I 
had recently dealt with catastrophic brake failure that was caused by a 
pin hole rust through.  So I went with stainless.  I didn't bother when 
I installed a new system in the Land Rover a few years later.

Teriann

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar  9 22:34:20 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 21:34:20 -0800
Subject: [TR] FW: For Sale T2/3 Flasher Warning Light
Message-ID: <20080310043420.FEKY20654.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

At the risk of angering certain people, I feel this is a non-commercial post
of interest to at least some.  If you are interested, please contact Doug at
dwflagg at juno.com

Randall

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 1:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flasher Warning Light
>
>
> > I have an NOS Lucas 38068 flasher warning light assembly for the TR2/TR3
> > '56 - '60. Please contact me off the list if interested. Thanks.
> >
> > Doug

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar  9 23:08:30 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 22:08:30 -0800
Subject: [TR] Why not FLAPS brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <001501c88257$ba9d0f40$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <20080310050830.OONJ11478.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> I think I have removed all my brake lines carefully during 
> last year's tear-down.  Is there any logical reason I 
> cannot/should not clean, paint & re-install them?

Not too long ago, Bill, I would have said "No".  But a recent experience
convinced me otherwise.  I was pawing through a box of original brake parts
(saved from long-ago parts cars, in dry storage for over 30 years).  Found
the piece I was looking for (from the MC to the clutch slave), grabbed it
and pulled (not too hard) to get it out from under the other junk in the
box.  It snapped !  No signs of corrosion at all, it still looks very good
... except for being in two pieces !

That, plus an experience nearly 30 years ago similar to Teri Ann's (line
rusted through while car was in storage ... cost me the car) has made a
believer out of me.  I'm putting new lines on TS13571L.

BTW, I believe the copper-colored lines from Moss are not "refrigerator
tubing", but a special corrosion-resistant copper/nickel/iron alloy.  One
brand is "Cunifer", there are others.  It's use was pioneered by Volvo back
in 1976 and AFAIK is still in use today by the likes of Porsche, Audi and
Volvo.  As I understand it, it is even less prone to work-hardening than the
US-standard steel "Bundy" tubing, and has the big advantage that abrasion
won't cause it to start rusting.  The US-standard lines rely on a relatively
soft coating to stop rust, which doesn't always work.

See
http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=faq
for more info.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar  9 23:14:07 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 22:14:07 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 "Clanky" rearend
In-Reply-To: <12181740.1205111546651.JavaMail.root@mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20080310051406.HNOK19560.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> With a tire 
> off I can rotate either axle about 5 to 6 degrees before the 
> propshaft engages. If I do it fast I get the annoying 
> metallic clank.

Some play is normal, though I don't recall offhand how much.  If you're sure
it's inside the diff, then I'd change the oil with full synthetic and leave
it alone.  My TR3A diff has been MUCH worse than that for nearly 20 years
and was still working fine when the car was wrecked.

Randall

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Mon Mar 10 06:08:08 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 09:08:08 -0400
Subject: [TR] Non Triumph, rear disc brake question -
Message-ID: <380-2200831101388768@M2W041.mail2web.com>

Guys and Gals -
I am going to mount disc brake s to the rear of my 40 ford truck (Triumph
parts hauler) and can mount them in almost any position.  The best for
parking brake location would be at 10 O-clock (the fronts are at 9) but
have noticed that almost all disc brake calipers in the rear are mounted or
clocked at opposite or near opposite angles from the front.
Does any body know why the rear disc brake calipers would be mounted with
clocking opposite those of the front?  On every car IVE seen this is done
(maybe I need to look at more cars :-}).  I cant really see any reason for
this but the mechanical designer in me says there must be some engineering
reason for it, and not simply because it is easier to mount them this way.
Ive seen front calipers mounted at both 9 and 3 oclock positions and in
both cases the rears are clocked opposite the fronts. Ive goggled it but
couldnt really find any thing useful.  What am I missing here  inquiring
minds want to know before I install these on the truck 

Barry Schwartz
San Diego, CA


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From dncullig at us.ibm.com  Mon Mar 10 06:50:27 2008
From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 09:50:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] ZDDP and Oil reformulation
Message-ID: <OF0EBC3622.7D01B88C-ON85257408.004B75DE-85257408.004C07C3@us.ibm.com>

With all this talk of oil, I thought  I'd forward this note I saw on the
Spridgets list a few weeks ago...

Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
*************************************************************************

Reformulation of 20W50 Racing Oil
Lubestream Direct Connect

February 22, 2008
Dear ConocoPhillips Lubricants Marketer,

As part of our ongoing commitment to identify and provide
you, our valued Marketers, with products, programs and
tools to help you grow your business, we are pleased to
announce that 76 High Performance Motor Oil SAE 20W-50,
Kendall GT-1. High Performance Motor Oil SAE 20W-50 and
Phillips TropArtic. Racing Motor Oil 20W-50 will be
reformulated.

The reformulated oils will contain a boosted level of zinc
dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) in order to offer enhanced
wear protection and oxidation resistance for use in the
most demanding applications. The new formulations will be
in production in all plants by March 1.

We are confident that the enhanced formulation will address
concerns within the industry about current ILSAC GF-4 and
API SM engine oils and whether they contain sufficient
levels of ZDDP to protect older engines, especially
high-performance engines with flat-tappet camshafts. The
newly reformulated SAE 20W-50 viscosity grades of 76 High
Performance Motor Oil, Kendall GT-1. High Performance Motor
Oil and Phillips TropArtic. Racing Motor Oil will contain
approximately 1200 ppm zinc. Higher levels of ZDDP, which
provide antiwear/antiscuff protection as well as oxidation
inhibition, can help protect these new camshafts during the
critical break-in period.

The reformulated SAE 20W-50 viscosity grades will continue
to provide excellent protection in gasoline-fueled
competition engines, turbocharged engines, and
high-performance street engines, including those with
flat-tappet camshafts.

Please be sure to share this exciting reformulation
announcement with your customers who service
high-performance racing engines and stay tuned for
announcements about the availability of this reformulated
product. Please contact your MSR with any questions.

Sincerely,

Phil Sontag
Director of Marketing, Automotive Lubricants
_______________________________________________

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Mar 10 07:00:23 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 10:00:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] Leaking OD Gearbox
Message-ID: <cae.2c4c5b4d.350698f7@aol.com>

Hi Guys,
The shop constructing my TR3B has reported that the gearbox is still  leaking 
badly from the OD adapter plate.  It has always leaked so I had  them put new 
gaskets in while the motor was out.  No luck.  They are  going to try again.  
Any tips or words of wisdom I can pass on from the  List?
Thanks,
Darrell



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 10 07:54:38 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:54:38 +0000
Subject: [TR] Run out.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W41BFF63B02B839E8585110E50D0@phx.gbl>
References: <00d401c8816f$1132bd30$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<BAY110-W41BFF63B02B839E8585110E50D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W53E39223AA930926A673E0E50E0@phx.gbl>

Thanks to the list I have been working on my front wheel run out beginning at
the hubs.  Once I believe I saw a comment here that you could place the front
grease seal in the hub and then tighten the hub on the spindle to seat it.

My experience was that the grease seal will not completely seat using this
method.  If it does not completely seat it produces run out at the hub.  You
need to seat it with a wood block and hammer making sure the lip of the seal
has a uniform level at the back of the hub.

After turning the mounting face of the hubs I now have a run out of 0.003 on
each side.  That is down from 0.026 on one side.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
> To: dorpaul at bellsouth.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:28:44 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] set available, NA individual
>
> The last time I ordered a brake line from Moss they sent me a piece of
copper
> refrigerator line.  Use TRF, their lines are steel and pre-bent to original
> dimensions.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your
> "fix".
> http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar 10 07:55:43 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 10:55:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Another twist... Why not FLAPS brake lines?
Message-ID: <013201c882be$d0ff0470$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Another twist...

Seemingly, if brake lines had once held brake fluid, AND THEN, been exposed
to air they would be much stronger candidates for rust.  But, I don't think
I've
exactly heard this said.

Paul

List,
I think I have removed all my brake lines carefully during last year's
tear-down.  Is there any logical reason I cannot/should not clean, paint &
re-install them?

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Mar 10 07:58:22 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 07:58:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage, Oil is killing
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD64097@kb1.mossmotors.com>

>I've also noticed that Redline is now selling an oil treatment with
ZDDP.

Actually they are not selling it yet - still waiting on some final
touches.
There are ZDDP additives already available as well as oils formulated to
the old specifications that have ZDDP in them.
None of this can be run on cars with catalytic converters.

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 10 08:19:34 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 15:19:34 +0000
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
In-Reply-To: <000801c88247$28a74980$d7463b47@Scott>
References: <000801c88247$28a74980$d7463b47@Scott>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W439A9660F86B57545A5FEAE50E0@phx.gbl>

Why not take the best of your old tanks to a radiator shop and have it
sealed?

Best regards,
Tom

> From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:39:10 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
>
> Has anyone bought the replacement gas tank for the pre-60001 TR3? Mine has
> several a leaks (I had it tested 4 years ago and the shop said it was
fine),
> the one I bought from a club member leaks worse and the one I pulled this
AM
> is from a later model that will not fit (no comments from the peanut
> gallery). I have two more chances with tanks that need pulled from outside
> parts cars, but since Moss has a 20% sale that I would hit with the
purchase
> of a tank, I wanted to see how the quality is. Does it have all the holes
in
> the correct spots (filler neck, drain, fuel line, vent and sending unit)?
> Does it fit properly in the tight space with the shelf? TIA
>
> Scott Suhring
> Mechanicsburg, PA
> '70 TR6
> '59 TR3
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From cak at dimebank.com  Mon Mar 10 08:27:31 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 08:27:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 "Clanky" rearend
Message-ID: <200803101527.m2AFRVpg019660@moose.dimebank.com>

This is almost certainly due to wear in the copper-faced 
spherical thrust washers that adjust the clearance of the
pinion gears. They wear over time, often in part due to
the use of the "wrong" oil (GL5 instead of the lower-sulphur
GL4). 

They are also hard to come by in the wide variety of thicknesses
that used to be provided by the factory. 

Not worth taking the diff apart unless it's *really* bad. Just
learn to make softer launches. The "final solution" to this
problem is to install a limited-slip unit :-)

Best,
chris

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Mar 10 08:49:43 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 08:49:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8824f$4a34ca20$8701a8c0@Dell>
References: <000801c88247$28a74980$d7463b47@Scott>
	<000c01c8824f$4a34ca20$8701a8c0@Dell>
Message-ID: <3F893E454046443AB7665BFF49A0B1FB@GeoPC>

FWIW -- I, too, was pleased with Jorge's work -- though in my case ti was a 
bumper not a tank.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kinderlehrer" <Kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
To: "Scott Suhring" <suhringtr36 at comcast.net>; "Triumph Mail List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3


> Scott,
> I didn't get the Moss fuel tank, but I did buy one from Jorge Cervera. 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Mar 10 08:52:57 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:52:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
In-Reply-To: <bf2.29264c2c.35052fb2@aol.com>
References: <bf2.29264c2c.35052fb2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803101149320.18273@isis.mit.edu>

On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> bratt at sasktel.net writes:
>
> A local  mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on resalable
> cars  by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for a
> few  hundred miles.  The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the
> accumulated crud and sludge.  I figured that would be pretty had on  the
> bearings and cylinder walls.
>
>
>
> What say the list?  Lots of LBC owners have switched to  Shell Rotella for
> the ZDDP.

Look carefully at the label. Rotella changed recently to a new spec, I 
think it's CL-4 or something like that. They have reduced the ZDDP in the 
Rotella too.

On the plus side, several oil companies have recently indicated that they 
will release motor oil products for gasoline engines that have higher 
levels of ZDDP - these will be marketied as racing oils...

If you can't wait, there's good products out there already. Most cater to 
the racing community (Like RedLine, Valvoline Racing and Brad Penn and 
others)

> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sportsix63 at yahoo.com  Mon Mar 10 09:07:09 2008
From: sportsix63 at yahoo.com (jim williams)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 09:07:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803101149320.18273@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <881450.72137.qm@web32503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

What were the products that could be added to regular
oil. I believe one was a GM brand the other???




--- Robert Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> 
> > In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,
> > bratt at sasktel.net writes:
> >
> > A local  mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes
> out the crud on resalable
> > cars  by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec.
> oil, and running it for a
> > few  hundred miles.  The extra detergents in the
> Diesel Oil wash out the
> > accumulated crud and sludge.  I figured that would
> be pretty had on  the
> > bearings and cylinder walls.
> >
> >
> >
> > What say the list?  Lots of LBC owners have
> switched to  Shell Rotella for
> > the ZDDP.
> 
> Look carefully at the label. Rotella changed
> recently to a new spec, I 
> think it's CL-4 or something like that. They have
> reduced the ZDDP in the 
> Rotella too.
> 
> On the plus side, several oil companies have
> recently indicated that they 
> will release motor oil products for gasoline engines
> that have higher 
> levels of ZDDP - these will be marketied as racing
> oils...
> 
> If you can't wait, there's good products out there
> already. Most cater to 
> the racing community (Like RedLine, Valvoline Racing
> and Brad Penn and 
> others)
> 
> > David  Lylis
> > 69 TR6 CC26160L
> > 60 TR3A TS74461LO
> 
> rml
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 | 
> This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        | 
> Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        | 
> Cell: 339-927-4489
>
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as sportsix63 at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 


  Jim Williams
  Lewisburg, West Virginia





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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Mar 10 09:21:44 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:21:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
In-Reply-To: <454089294-1205164777-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-113804317-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <bf2.29264c2c.35052fb2@aol.com><Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803101149320.18273@isis.mit.edu>
	<454089294-1205164777-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-113804317-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803101220000.18273@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 lfm614 at aol.com wrote:

> I believe that Catrol HD 30 still ZDDP

If there is an API-SM rating, then it most certainly does NOT have the 
_higher levels_ of ZDDP (e.g. 1200ppm)

If it doesn't carry an API rating, then _maybe_.

> Lou


regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
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---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From peter at nosimport.com  Mon Mar 10 09:27:25 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:27:25 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage
In-Reply-To: <881450.72137.qm@web32503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803101149320.18273@isis.mit.edu>
	<881450.72137.qm@web32503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080310112631.038eff38@nosimport.com>

STP make a blue and red. Cheap enough. Color seems to be a 
concentration, and so is by oil volume.

         Peter C
=
At 11:07 AM 3/10/2008, jim williams wrote:

>What were the products that could be added to regular
>oil. I believe one was a GM brand the other???

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Mon Mar 10 10:09:35 2008
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:09:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph TR2 TR3 A Stainless Steel Bumper Kit New on Ebay
Message-ID: <47D56B4F.3000201@shaw.ca>

I'm curious if anyone has seen these stainless steel bumpers in person. 
With the bad luck I've had with chroming shops over the years stainless 
bumpers would seem to be a  good alternative on a car that won't be a 
trailer queen.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200179135987&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=010

Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Mar 10 15:01:21 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:01:21 -0800
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage, Rotella T CJ-4
References: <bf2.29264c2c.35052fb2@aol.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803101149320.18273@isis.mit.edu>
	<454089294-1205164777-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-113804317-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803101220000.18273@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <00ee01c882fa$46a39660$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

List/All,
I contacted Shell because I passed on some information regarding Rotella T
some time ago. There is more information as API ratings changed from CI-4 to
CJ-4 on this oil in 2007.
Response I received from Shell pasted below:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob,
With the introduction a couple of years ago of ILSAC specification GF-4 and
API specification SM for gasoline-only engine oils, the amount of
phosphorous in the oil had to be reduced to prolong the life of catalytic
converters.  Zinc-based anti-wear compounds, which also contain phosphorous,
were reduced as well.  These zinc compounds work well to protect flat tappet
engines from excessive wear, so the modern gasoline-only engine oils are not
as effective in this regard as they once were.

Diesel engine oils don't suffer from the same requirements to protect
catalytic converters, so the amount of zinc-based anti-wear additives
remained high.  Products like Shell Rotella T Oils, which also carry API
S-series licenses for gasoline engines, have found favor for flat tappet
engines.

Shell Rotella T oils contain approximately 1200 ppm zinc.  At that level,
Shell Rotella T Oils still have at least 50% more of these anti-wear
additives as most current gasoline-only engine oils.  These levels of zinc
have historically offered good protection in flat tappet applications.

Thank you for your interest in Shell Rotella Products!

Regards,
Edward Calcote
Staff Chemist, Shell Lubricants US Technical Information Center
http://www.rotella.com/
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Regards,
Bob



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Mar 10 11:14:28 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:14:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] WAS Synthetic Oil Engine Damage now ZDDP
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD6409A@kb1.mossmotors.com>

Most off the shelf oils for gasoline engines have vastly reduced the
ZDDP because of the damage to catalytic converters.
The GM additive has also been greatly reduced.
We have spent a @#$%-load of time on this.
I hate to be commercial but there is a lot of info on the Moss web site
under the ZDDP products we offer (220-805, 220-810) about what has
happened, why and what can be done.

Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6 Daily Driver

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Mon Mar 10 11:14:02 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:14:02 -0700
Subject: [TR] Detaching header from tailpipe
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10802281831v1d2972b3w973a8133462e2eb5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10802281508j3ddfcd65hf8a59ffe1ed04d26@mail.gmail.com>
	<233b01c87a61$00773d50$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<cd09b7f10802281831v1d2972b3w973a8133462e2eb5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10803101114v4f68232x9c902f2a7f1dc61a@mail.gmail.com>

No luck, Randall. Got the junction as hot as I dared, applied the wet towel
wrap, soaked in PB Blaster, repeated several times that day and days
following. So have given up, cleaned up the header as best I could in situ,
and will paint.
Thanks again for the input.
John Howard

On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 7:31 PM, Lee&John Howard <leejohn7 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks. I'll give a try and report back.
> John
>
>
> On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 3:24 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > > I'd like to get the header out for a ceramic coating, but, of
> > > course, can't
> > > budge it from its junction with the tail pipe. Many applications of
> > > rust-bust stuff hasn't helped. Is there a way to get them
> > > apart without cutting?
> >
> > Not always.
> >
> > > Do I apply a  propane torch?
> >
> > Should help, but don't forget that most "rust bust stuff" is flammable.
> >  Get
> > it good and hot, then try twisting the pipes.  Wrapping a wet towel
> > around
> > the part that goes inside (to create a temporary thermal gradient) may
> > help
> > too.  Once they start to move a little, dose with PB Blaster then keep
> > twisting back and forth.
> >
> > Randall
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> > http://www.vtr.org
> >
> >
> > Triumphs at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> >
> > You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Mar 10 11:32:43 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:32:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pressure Plate Confusion
Message-ID: <000001c882dd$22fc4300$210110ac@bobspc>

Evidently there are bent finger pressure plates (B&B) and flat finger
pressure plates (Leycock). I just got a Sachs' pressure plate from Ted
Schumacher and am trying to determine if it's flat or bent finger. It makes
a difference with the hydraulic throw out bearing (flat vs curved face)
that's used with the 5 speed conversion. It looked just like the B&B when it
was off the engine but now that it's installed and torqued down, I'm not so
sure. I put a straight edge across the face and measured down to the tip of
one finger and to the base of the same finger. At the tip it's 3/16" down
and at the base it's 5/16" down. So the finger ends aren't equal distances
down. I also put a short straightedge on the length of the finger and it
looks flat to me. Does anyone know if the Sachs pressure plate is flat or
bent finger and am I checking correctly?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Mar 10 11:54:19 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (JOHN MACARTNEY)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:54:19 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
In-Reply-To: <d1b.1f08fbef.3505631d@aol.com>
Message-ID: <276958.81019.qm@web86014.mail.ird.yahoo.com>

Very interesting. Thanks for the rundown on CKD cars.  Excuse me but  what is SKD?  


Semi knocked down. In this case, certain parts of the car were assembled in Coventry with the balance being fitted at the overseas assembly plant from locally sourced componentry.

I am going to say that CT5521LO is indeed that with no 1  before the commission #.  The plate has the appearance of being original to  the car. The Heritage Certificate says "Dispatched to Belgium". I received  a letter of apology from them referring to the car as CKD with no body #  recorded. 

As I think I may have said in an earlier post, BMIHT has no details of CKD and SKD shipments.

 The story behind the original owner was that he was a USA serviceman  serving overseas and the car was shipped from Belgium to Florida, USA for the  Tax advantages. Any truth to that?

I think that probably the more likely case is that he was a Serviceman based in Germany which was one of the founding states of the European Economic community. At the time of the TR4, the UK was not a member state as it is now. Ergo, he would have been able to buy a tax-free car in Germany (all forces of occupying countries got a tax free facility - apart from the Russians!) to effectively the same spec with the possible exception that its speedo would have been in kilometres but that's easy to change. Without doubt, it would have arrived in the US with its US forces licence plate (German issue) and this would definitely have classified it as used with lower than usual US import duty. Of course, being a TR4, it was before US safety standards kicked in and the car would have had the crankcase breather as I think they all did by that time.

Cheers, Jonmac

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Mon Mar 10 11:59:29 2008
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:59:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
Message-ID: <143238.1968.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Some time back I purchased the aluminum tank Jorge produces for my TR2.  The only deviation is that the indentations used to stiffen the tank are the reverse of the original.  Weight is around half.
 
Planning & Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673 



----- Original Message ----
From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn <ahwahnee at cybertrails.com>
To: Kinderlehrer <Kinderlehrer at comcast.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 11:49:43 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3

FWIW -- I, too, was pleased with Jorge's work -- though in my case ti was a 
bumper not a tank.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kinderlehrer" <Kinderlehrer at comcast.net>
To: "Scott Suhring" <suhringtr36 at comcast.net>; "Triumph Mail List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3


> Scott,
> I didn't get the Moss fuel tank, but I did buy one from Jorge Cervera. 
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Mar 10 12:10:57 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 15:10:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <cdb.29981251.3506e1c1@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/10/2008 1:54:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

to effectively the same spec with the possible exception that its  speedo 
would have been in kilometres but that's easy to change
 
Yes John,
On CT 5521 LO the speedo is MPH, but the oil pressure gauge is kilograms  and 
the temperature gauge is Celsius. 
Thanks,
Darrell





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From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Mon Mar 10 12:14:07 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:14:07 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 "Clanky" rearend
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4269.1205160530.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <038101c882e2$ea05fd60$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

Doug,

I just went thru this with my 4a IRS, and found a multiple of issues. Like
yours, the mounting for the diff was in perfect shape as I stripped the
frame bare and sandblasted it, then welded in supports and ensured the
mounting pins were the best they could be.

The dreaded rear end noise I found came from the following:
1. Excessive play in the right side sliding half shaft
2. Excessive play in the wire wheel splined hub adaptor
3. Some (hard to define "excessive" here) play in the diff itself. Certainly
isn't as tight as some of my other cars I've had, but not completely sloppy
either. 

So I set about addressing each in turn. After much time and money, all were
the culprit. The wire wheel issue ended up being in the wheel hub and not
the hub on the car, but one wears out the other so looks like a good time
for chrome wires...
The sliding shaft was the biggest contributor. I didn't realize there was so
much torsion play when I assembled the drive train and suspension, it didn't
take much to get to the point of the dreaded IRS twitch. See Roger Williams
"How to Restore TR 4a" page 140.

Lastly, the bearings in the diff housing were shot causing slop in the stub
axles. Pretty easy to fix, just remember to fill the diff back up with oil!

Brian
'67 TR4a

____________________________________________________________________________


Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 21:12:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: dmnlaw <dmnlaw at peoplepc.com>
Subject: [TR] TR6 "Clanky" rearend
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID:
	
<12181740.1205111546651.JavaMail.root at mswamui-backed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

After placing my TR6 on the road this past December I have been driving and
sorting out various issues. I am now focused on the differential. When I
start in first or reverse gear (from dead stop) the differential clanks. All
u-joints are new. Differential mounts are in good shape also. With a tire
off I can rotate either axle about 5 to 6 degrees before the propshaft
engages. If I do it fast I get the annoying metallic clank. On the highway
all is fine - no whining, grinding or anything like that. Is this just a LBC
issue that I need to get use to or am I looking at a rebuild. Thanks.

Doug Nelson
74 TR6

________________________________________
PeoplePC Online
A better way to Internet
http://www.peoplepc.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 10 12:10:53 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:10:53 -0800
Subject: [TR] Run out.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W53E39223AA930926A673E0E50E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080310181053.BHEC20654.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> My experience was that the grease seal will not completely 
> seat using this method.  If it does not completely seat it 
> produces run out at the hub.  

Just my opinion, Tom, that would indicate to me that you weren't getting the
bearing properly adjusted.  This has apparently been a common problem ever
since the cars were new, as the factory revised the procedure several times
in what looks to me to be attempts to solve this problem.  At any rate, that
seal cannot possibly produce anywhere near the normal forces on the bearing,
so if it can cause the bearing to deflect, there is something else wrong.

To put it another way, any runout produced by that seal is not significant,
because it will disappear when the hub is loaded.

Of course, you can get some apparent runout from the normal clearance in the
bearings; so for an accurate measurement you really need to remove the
clearance.

Randall

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Mar 10 14:03:03 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 17:03:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 "Clanky" rearend
Message-ID: <c1f.2eccdf9f.3506fc07@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/9/2008 6:12:55 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dmnlaw at peoplepc.com writes:

If I do  it fast I get the annoying metallic clank. 


Doug,
 
If I'm not real gentle or patient, my TR6 diff also has metallic click  
mostly between 1st gear and reverse (backing up then going forward)....half  
shafts, U Joints, etc. were all replaced during restoration......the noise is  
coming from a bit of excessive end play in the diff.  It's really not as  bad as my 
Chevy truck's diff which has "clicked" since new under much the same  
conditions.....I'm certain that a competent diff/axle shop can rebuild your diff  to 
silence the end-play but, IMHO, if it isn't whining, grinding or making other  
horrible noises, try the synthetic or GL4 gear oil suggestions and go easy on 
 it!
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U



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From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Mon Mar 10 14:47:28 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 16:47:28 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 Model
Message-ID: <380-220083110214728921@earthlink.net>

Mike,

Have a look at what is available at
 http://www.triple-c.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=110018&InfoID=2441

This one used to be offered in red but has since sold out. I have not found
any TR6 in 1/24 or 1/25 scale, but threre are many in 1/43 scale.
 
TRIUMPH TR6 - BRITISH RACING GREEN
Ertl TR6 in British Racing Green These limited edition models are
restricted to a run of only 2,500 pieces. Interior is black. Engine detail
is superb (fuel injected UK version) Scale 1:18.
Die-cast metal construction with plastic details. Please note that this is
a UK spec. RHD model with fuel injection.  
 
ERT29051 - TRIUMPH TR6 - BRITISH RACING GREEN  
SCALE MODELS  > TRIUMPH  > TR6        
              Price: $39.95  
 


> [Original Message]
> From: Mike Coe <coefront at shaw.ca>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Date: 3/9/2008 9:59:34 AM
> Subject: [TR] TR6 Model
>
> Hi:
>
> Please include the following.
>
> Looking for a TR6 model please. Size 1.18 or there about. Mike.
> coefront at shaw.ca
>
> Mike Coe

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Mar 10 16:33:05 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 23:33:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] Why not FLAPS brake lines?
Message-ID: <031020082333.5405.47D5C5310004185A0000151D22155517249C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Somebody stop me!

Whoops.  Too late....  Am raising the silicone brake fluif debate again....

Since the rust through with brake lines typically happens from the inside, replacing the brake lines might be something you want to do while the body is off (Bill, I assume it is?).  Much easier.  When I tore down my restoration project TR3, I had Randall's experience of having seemingly healthy brakelines fall apart in my hands.

Moreover, I can't see why PITA bending of stainless is of benefit if one uses the silicone brake fluif?  ...Unless any moisture in the line, not absorbed by silicone as it is by conventional, would settle into the lowest bend and rust it out from there????

Terry Smith
New Hampshire...and sick of 4-wheeling to work

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net> 

> Paul, 
> 
> >From what FLAPS are you finding these British brake lines?. 
> 
> List, 
> I think I have removed all my brake lines carefully during last year's 
> tear-down. Is there any logical reason I cannot/should not clean, paint & 
> re-install them? 

From terryrs at comcast.net  Mon Mar 10 16:39:01 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 23:39:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] FW: For Sale T2/3 Flasher Warning Light
Message-ID: <031020082339.23281.47D5C6950004D2FA00005AF122155517249C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

The nerve!

Am not angry at the posting.  Am incensed that anyone would suggest that a TR3 could break down and require an emergency flasher!

Oh ye of little faith!

Terry
New Hamsphire...still sick of 4-wheeling to work.

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> 

> At the risk of angering certain people, I feel this is a non-commercial post 
> of interest to at least some. If you are interested, please contact Doug at 
> dwflagg at juno.com 
> 
> Randall 
> 
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Douglas W Flagg" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 1:57 PM 
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Flasher Warning Light 
> > 
> > 
> > > I have an NOS Lucas 38068 flasher warning light assembly for the TR2/TR3 
> > > '56 - '60. Please contact me off the list if interested. Thanks. 
> > > 
> > > Doug 

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Mar 10 17:36:07 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 20:36:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Model
Message-ID: <bf2.294adb30.35072df7@aol.com>

Got one on my desk!  I bought one the last time they imported  them.  People 
come to my office and I catch them eyeing it and the only  thing I can think 
of is the movie "Tommy Boy!
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From mathews at uga.edu  Mon Mar 10 17:54:04 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 20:54:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR4 Rubber Steering Coupler Tale
Message-ID: <20080311015326.443CD187642@autox.team.net>

Got to share this.....

When I was younger and dumber (still not the oldest brightest bulb 
around), I bought a 64TR4 around 1980 and drove it all over. Still 
have it. I knew the steering had some play and I had noticed the 
steering shaft coupler was just meshed together and not connected. I 
guessed it was made that way. I took trips up trough the NC mountains 
and on some stretches down hill, I'd get up to over 100 coasting.
One night after a football game in Athens, I was on the way home 
(yes, I had imbibed a little too) and  when I started from a red 
light and turned right to head home, the darn car sort went straight 
midway through the turn.  The policeman directing traffic had to move 
out of the way as I put on brakes and slowly drove up over the curb. 
He came over to see what I was up to and when I showed him how my 
steering wheel could go in circles, he said I had 2 choices....leave 
the car there and walk home (about a mile) or he'd have someone take 
me downtown to spend the night.

I took the first option!

Doug

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 10 19:53:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:53:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] Why not FLAPS brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <031020082333.5405.47D5C5310004185A0000151D22155517249C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080311015318.UGVC20654.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> Moreover, I can't see why PITA bending of stainless is of 
> benefit if one uses the silicone brake fluif?

The outside of the line is still exposed to harsh, potentially corrosive
environment.  Sand & gravel to abrade away the anti-rust coating, then water
mixed with salt in many areas.

>  ...Unless any 
> moisture in the line, not absorbed by silicone as it is by 
> conventional, would settle into the lowest bend and rust it 
> out from there????

It's true that silicone will not absorb the moisture as conventional brake
fluid will.  However, my observation has been that the silicone fluid will
surround any liquid water, and keep it from touching the metal.  This is the
same action observed in car polishes that contain silicone, the silicone
makes the water bead up (meaning the surface isn't actually wetted).

Randall

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Mon Mar 10 19:00:29 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:00:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W439A9660F86B57545A5FEAE50E0@phx.gbl>
References: <000801c88247$28a74980$d7463b47@Scott>
	<BAY110-W439A9660F86B57545A5FEAE50E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <47D5E7BD.3040907@comcast.net>

Where do most of you find that your fuel tank rusts at, inside or outside?

I just got done cutting the bottom 2" off of my 57 TR3 tank. The outside
of the bottom was badly pitted from sitting on the damp felt mounting
cushion. The inside looked really good!  A little surface rust in spots,
but it was mostly all bright metal (except for where the outside pits
made it through to the inside).

I bent up a U shaped replacement panel for the bottom of the tank and am
in the process of welding it back in place. It seemed like a shame to
throw out a tank that looked so good inside. I plan to epoxy seal the
tank once it is done in case there are any pin holes in my welds.

Mike

> Why not take the best of your old tanks to a radiator shop and have it
> sealed?
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
>
>   
>> From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net
>> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>> Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:39:10 -0400
>> Subject: [TR] Aftermarket Moss Gas Tank TR3
>>
>> Has anyone bought the replacement gas tank for the pre-60001 TR3? Mine has
>> several a leaks (I had it tested 4 years ago and the shop said it was
>>     
> fine),
>   
>> the one I bought from a club member leaks worse and the one I pulled this

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 11 04:50:02 2008
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 07:50:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rubber Steering Coupling Help
Message-ID: <BAY117-DAV6BD502C2CF12741DEAD369F0F0@phx.gbl>

Bob, Bob and Aaron,

            Great advice on the steering coupling.  Since I had the steering
out of the car I used the bench vice to squeeze the coupling into the proper
dimension and the process was easy.  I still can't help but think that the
original rubber couplings didn't need clamping to assemble.

            Guys, Thanks again for the help. 

 

 
Bob

 
'72 TR6

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Mar 11 06:34:42 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 13:34:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Rubber Steering Coupling Help
Message-ID: <031120081334.14322.47D68A72000A5669000037F222120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

Isn't it possible to put all-metal couplings in Triumph steering columns?

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Mar 11 07:50:22 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 10:50:22 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rubber Steering Coupling Help
In-Reply-To: <031120081334.14322.47D68A72000A5669000037F222120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <031120081334.14322.47D68A72000A5669000037F222120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000301c88387$3dde6db0$210110ac@bobspc>

Phil,
Yes......TRF sells a metal coupling link. Probably just gives you more road
feedback 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of pethier at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 9:35 AM
To: Triumphs
Subject: Re: [TR] Rubber Steering Coupling Help

Isn't it possible to put all-metal couplings in Triumph steering columns?

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From dougfr at comcast.net  Tue Mar 11 10:21:45 2008
From: dougfr at comcast.net (Doug)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 10:21:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] Balanced Thermostats
Message-ID: <001d01c8839c$61cfe310$87f01618@DOUG>

I've been reading in a book on "Cooling 'System Basics" about the advantages
of a 'Balanced' thermostat in auto system cooling.  This especially applies to
the ability of the thermostat to open easily when there is a sudden changes in
RPMs.

This was developed by RobertShaw and is used in many American hot rods, etc.

The conventional thermostat is a Reverse Poppet Thermostat and will
open-closed quickly when the engine starts hard acceleration.  This is not
good if you have upgraded your engine.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a 'Balanced Sleeve Thermostat' that will
work in our Triumphs?


Doug Fraser
Sammamish, WA
1969 TR6

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Mar 11 10:49:13 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 10:49:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rubber Steering Coupling Help
In-Reply-To: <BAY117-DAV6BD502C2CF12741DEAD369F0F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY117-DAV6BD502C2CF12741DEAD369F0F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <p06240800c3fc758d2e53@[98.224.7.170]>

Just  to clarify a little  ... the reason you must  "squeeze" the 
rubber coupling is to put into a state  of torque, this allows the 
steering to be direct ... that is you don't have to torque the 
coupling before it begins to move the steering ... this is considered 
a "good  thing".  The same applies  to rubber "donuts" used in some 
final drive connectiions.  The one I am most familiar  with is the 
Lotus 23B  ... I helped change a number  of these  and they are ... 
a "bitch" ...  but they get the job done ...


>Bob, Bob and Aaron,
>
>             Great advice on the steering coupling.  Since I had the steering
>out of the car I used the bench vice to squeeze the coupling into the proper
>dimension and the process was easy.  I still can't help but think that the
>original rubber couplings didn't need clamping to assemble.
>
>             Guys, Thanks again for the help.


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Tue Mar 11 11:14:31 2008
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 14:14:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] Balanced Thermostats
References: <001d01c8839c$61cfe310$87f01618@DOUG>
Message-ID: <001001c883a3$c2232450$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us>

Really the thermostat only needs to open and close in response to 
temperature changes, not engine rpm.

The big marketing claims for the balanced sleeve thermostat is the claims of 
phantom pressure pulses in the cooling system as a result of suddenly 
revving up an engine, or revving it down.  Supposedly this can create 
remarkable pulses in the cooling system that blow the thermostat open or 
closed. I call them phantom pressure pulses because I've never seen them in 
any engines cooling system.

I'd suggest you try to force a thermostat open or closed with your hands 
some time.

A thermostat does not blow open or closed.  There are no wild pulses in a 
cooling system from revving the engine up or down.  Nor are there hyper fast 
temperature changes in the coolant as a result.

The closest I can come to liking some higher end thermostats, including some 
of the balanced types is the tapered flow vs the poppet opening of cheaper 
ones.  The poppet action works well enough, but a tapered unit can do a 
better job of stabilizing and not having as much swing.  A swing which 
normally is no more than the width of the needle on the temperature gauge.

From v6spitfireguy at cox.net  Tue Mar 11 11:17:17 2008
From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 14:17:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Balanced Thermostats
Message-ID: <380-220083211181717105@M2W020.mail2web.com>

FWIW
I used one of these in my 40 Ford Triumph parts hauler (Ford 289, C4 auto,
down flow 4 core aluminum radiator, engine driven flex fan, shrouded).  I
tried several brands, all with the same result.  These are the ones with a
can on the end and three oval holes.  Supposed to allow more coolant flow,
better control with higher water pressure etc.  The temp would fluctuate
about twenty degrees, and would get hot on hot days with the air on. It
would take forever to warm up and was not very constant. In fact, on really
cold days it would not even warm up fully on the 15 mile drive to work on
the freeway. I replaced all of these improved versions of the thermostat
(three of them, I really tried) with the conventional pop up type and now
my temp remains constant even with the air on on hot days, and warms up
very quickly - Now that was my experience, yours may vary, but I for one
will continue with the old standard, albeit stainless, thermostat -



Original Message:
-----------------
From: Doug dougfr at comcast.net
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 10:21:45 -0700
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Balanced Thermostats


I've been reading in a book on "Cooling 'System Basics" about the advantages
of a 'Balanced' thermostat in auto system cooling.  This especially applies
to
the ability of the thermostat to open easily when there is a sudden changes
in
RPMs.

This was developed by RobertShaw and is used in many American hot rods, etc.

The conventional thermostat is a Reverse Poppet Thermostat and will
open-closed quickly when the engine starts hard acceleration.  This is not
good if you have upgraded your engine.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a 'Balanced Sleeve Thermostat' that
will
work in our Triumphs?


Doug Fraser
Sammamish, WA
1969 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as v6spitfireguy at cox.net

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From pete_groh at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 11 13:25:01 2008
From: pete_groh at yahoo.com (Pete Groh)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 13:25:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Closed shop, British car and parts  PA - on view Sat 03/15/08
Message-ID: <996312.66160.qm@web36807.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have exchange e-mail with Chris who has posted information on a
closed British car shop. I also talk to Howard by phone who is from the
UK by phone today. He adivse me that there are some Jaguar parts in the
lot, has a Jag XKE himself. He state some Jag XJ6 parts.  
He did tell me that other Foreign parts are in the lot. I am also
sending Chis a copy of this e-mail. Plan to pass on the information to
other British car list on the open house. I plan on going to the shop
on Saturday if weather is clear. Will take some more pictures and put
in a slide show.
Best regards
Pete Groh, (KeyGuy) Ellicott City, MD USA 


Antique British Cars,Parts, Cars, Memorabilia Hot Air Balloons For 
> > Sale March 15th, 2008
> > 10 AM to 3 PM
> > Ragge & Willow
> > First and Lincoln Street P.O. Box 370Bovard, Pennsylvania 15619 

 > We would
> like to invite you to an open house to view a liquidation of>
 antique
> British cars, a parts department full of items for antique>
 cars,
> automotive memorabilia, hot air balloons, and other antiques. >
 >
> John Addison had the Pit Stop foreign car repair service for
 nearly
> 30> years in Greensburg , PA 15601 John also maintained Ragge
 and
> Willow> , a hot air balloon> business, doing both private
 flights and
> corporate advertising. > In the last 10 years he moved the
 business
> to Bovard , PA , just> outside Greensburg . > John passed
 away in
> late 2007, and his estate is being evaluated for> future sale
 in
> large lots. > We would like to generate some interest in the
 cars and
> parts, and that> is the purpose for this email. > We would
 like to
> have an open house in March 2008, at which time you> can view
 all of
> the contents of the warehouse and take photographs. We> will
 then
> begin accepting bids for the items. > If you would like to be 
> included, you can call or email for the time> and date of the
 open
> house.> Thank you for your attention.> Chris Giron





      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 11 13:48:06 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 13:48:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 rebuild/new brake lines?
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10803111348n7b83c791u6f9d8681f0864ce4@mail.gmail.com>

Following the FLAPS brake line thread, I realize that my new TR4 sat for at
least three years before coming to me. The car was heavily driven in its
first 40 years - 200M + miles - so/and I am rebuilding all hydraulics. With
the engine out the front end brake lines are a straight-forward
replacement, but from there back it looks like a job and a half. Has anyone
out there done this?
Also, I would go with Moss's cupro-nickel kit and a bending tool from my
FLAPS.
Would appreciate any comments/thoughts/warnings etc.
TIA
John Howard

From tom.wags at gmail.com  Tue Mar 11 14:34:04 2008
From: tom.wags at gmail.com (Tom Wagner)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 16:34:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs
Message-ID: <4e74fbc30803111434l20a0ca7bp460e6a322acf3371@mail.gmail.com>

To All:

Can someone let me know where to start looking for a piston sticking
on HS4 carbs.  I have checked the oil level in the dashpot and also
cleaned the inside of the chamber, along with the needle on the end of
the piston.  This is on a 67 MGB, but I know there are some out there
that have MG's that might be able to help me out.

All help would be appreciated, and Thanks in advance


--
Tom Wagner
72 TR 6
67 MGB
Gravette, AR 72736

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Mar 11 14:55:37 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 17:55:37 EDT
Subject: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs
Message-ID: <be0.2f9157a1.350859d9@aol.com>

Your needle and jet may not be properly aligned. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 11 16:44:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 15:44:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 rebuild/new brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10803111348n7b83c791u6f9d8681f0864ce4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080311224455.XWEZ24323.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> With the engine out 
> the front end brake lines are a straight-forward replacement, 
> but from there back it looks like a job and a half. Has 
> anyone out there done this?

I've not done a TR4, but it should be essentially identical to a TR3A and
they look pretty easy; other than having to work under the car on your back.
The lines that run along the rear axle are the hardest, but the only really
important part is being sure they can't get pinched or abraded by the axle
check straps.  The shape at the straps is kind of complicated, so pictures
of the routing before you remove the old ones would be a really good idea,
IMO.

> Also, I would go with Moss's cupro-nickel kit and a bending 
> tool from my FLAPS.

Check to see how sharp a radius bend it will make.  Some of the original
bends are really short (like at the rear brake cylinders).  I was lucky
enough to find a tool that would do 1/2" radius bends, but I have no idea
where to find one today (and it's still not quite as tight as some of the
factory bends).  And even then, I had to modify it to put the bend close to
the nut (cut a notch for the nut to fit into).

Randall

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar 11 15:54:28 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 15:54:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 rebuild/new brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <20080311224455.XWEZ24323.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <20080311224455.XWEZ24323.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <2F3108DE-7E0B-4E92-A85C-5CA17AB79616@sbcglobal.net>

For really tight bends on brake lines Eastwood http:// 
www.eastwoodco.com lines sells a specially designed  "pair of pliers".  
I have a pair and they work fine. Currently they are on sale.

49074		Brake Tubing Forming Pliers
			
Was: $29.99
Now: $19.99
You will still need a regular tubing bender for the normal bends. NFI  
and all of that.

Mike Denman


On Mar 11, 2008, at 4:44 PM, Randall wrote:

>> With the engine out
>> the front end brake lines are a straight-forward replacement,
>> but from there back it looks like a job and a half. Has
>> anyone out there done this?
>
> I've not done a TR4, but it should be essentially identical to a  
> TR3A and
> they look pretty easy; other than having to work under the car on  
> your back.
> The lines that run along the rear axle are the hardest, but the only  
> really
> important part is being sure they can't get pinched or abraded by  
> the axle
> check straps.  The shape at the straps is kind of complicated, so  
> pictures
> of the routing before you remove the old ones would be a really good  
> idea,
> IMO.
>
>> Also, I would go with Moss's cupro-nickel kit and a bending
>> tool from my FLAPS.
>
> Check to see how sharp a radius bend it will make.  Some of the  
> original
> bends are really short (like at the rear brake cylinders).  I was  
> lucky
> enough to find a tool that would do 1/2" radius bends, but I have no  
> idea
> where to find one today (and it's still not quite as tight as some  
> of the
> factory bends).  And even then, I had to modify it to put the bend  
> close to
> the nut (cut a notch for the nut to fit into).
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Mar 11 16:50:38 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 18:50:38 -0500
Subject: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <4e74fbc30803111434l20a0ca7bp460e6a322acf3371@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4e74fbc30803111434l20a0ca7bp460e6a322acf3371@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <200803111850.38476.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 11 March 2008 04:34 pm, Tom Wagner wrote:
> To All:
>
> Can someone let me know where to start looking for a piston sticking
> on HS4 carbs.  I have checked the oil level in the dashpot and also
> cleaned the inside of the chamber, along with the needle on the end of
> the piston.  This is on a 67 MGB, but I know there are some out there
> that have MG's that might be able to help me out.
>
> All help would be appreciated, and Thanks in advance
>
>
> --
> Tom Wagner
> 72 TR 6
> 67 MGB
> Gravette, AR 72736
Tom,

Most likely problem is the needle is not centered.

Next could be the Damper. Could be bent.

One other think I have seen is the piston part that enters the top assembly is 
bent. Only fix here is to replace the whole piston.

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 11 17:09:25 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 16:09:25 -0800
Subject: [TR] Balanced Thermostats
In-Reply-To: <001d01c8839c$61cfe310$87f01618@DOUG>
Message-ID: <20080311230925.BESQ8359.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> Does anyone have a recommendation for a 'Balanced Sleeve 
> Thermostat' that will work in our Triumphs?

RobertShaw 330-180 will fit TR3-6 (not sure about TR2, Spitfires, etc.).
Also sold under the Prestone name (look for the part number).  Also fits
early Stags, but not the later ones with the 'foot' to close off the bypass
(which probably also means not TR7).

Obviously, it lacks the sleeve to block off the bypass on the TR3-4 as well.
But I couldn't find that blocking the bypass made any difference at all on
my car, so YMMV.  Research seems to indicate that the factory agreed, they
eventually started using a non-sleeved thermostat and approved it for
replacement use on earlier engines.

Randall

From dougfr at comcast.net  Tue Mar 11 16:43:58 2008
From: dougfr at comcast.net (Doug)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 16:43:58 -0700
Subject: [TR] Balanced Thermostats
Message-ID: <016001c883d1$c6dc9ed0$87f01618@DOUG>

Thanks all for the heads-up on this piece.  Seems to be a varying experience
so I'll go with my gut.
I'm also looking into using Evans NPG+ coolant.  My research shows good traits
there.

Doug Fraser
Sammamish, WA
1969 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 11 18:01:40 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 17:01:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <4e74fbc30803111434l20a0ca7bp460e6a322acf3371@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <20080312000140.QQJ24323.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> Can someone let me know where to start looking for a piston 
> sticking on HS4 carbs.  I have checked the oil level in the 
> dashpot and also cleaned the inside of the chamber, along 
> with the needle on the end of the piston. 

Never owned one a them octagonal cars <g>, but HS4 are pretty much identical
to HS6.  In addition to Bob's comment about jet centering, I'd try removing
the chamber & piston and checking that there is no drag whatsoever with them
separated from the carb body.  The chamber body is fairly fragile, so a
dropped wrench or similar may have dented it enough to foul the piston.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Mar 11 17:06:46 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:06:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR4 rebuild/new brake lines?
Message-ID: <d09.2dc3a25c.35087896@aol.com>

I bought a bending tool at HF that does really tight radius bends.   
Unfortunately that's about all it does.  It took care of the rearward line  on my 3A 
where it makes the bend upwards near the rear axle very  nicely.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Tue Mar 11 17:47:56 2008
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:47:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs
References: <4e74fbc30803111434l20a0ca7bp460e6a322acf3371@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005501c883da$b7e29c50$0d6a33d8@CPQ12949640186>

Take the cap off, with the piston and spring.

Flip it over on the work bench.  Push the piston down to the bottom (top if 
it was right side up), let go, and watch it rise.

It should smoothly and steadily rise up and out.  In which case you know the 
problem is with the needle fouling the jet.  Bet it off center or bent.

If the piston does not rise smoothly and steadily up and out of the cap, the 
problem is in there.  This is almost always unrepairable, and best dealt 
with by replacing the assembly.

If you're feeling curious, you can do both pistons at the same time.   They 
should rise and pop out together at the same time.  Well, almost exactly the 
same time.  In good shape, it's very close.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Wagner" <tom.wags at gmail.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 5:34 PM
Subject: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs


> To All:
>
> Can someone let me know where to start looking for a piston sticking
> on HS4 carbs.  I have checked the oil level in the dashpot and also
> cleaned the inside of the chamber, along with the needle on the end of
> the piston.  This is on a 67 MGB, but I know there are some out there
> that have MG's that might be able to help me out.

From tom628 at verizon.net  Tue Mar 11 17:53:00 2008
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:53:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] cleaning cooling system
Message-ID: <003e01c883db$6bcea380$2f01a8c0@Toms>

Hello folks:
I have the radiator out of our '76 TR6 for installation of an electric 
cooling fan, and I'd like to flush the block based on the rusty stuff that 
came out of the radiator.
There's a large hex-head bolt or plug on the starter side of the block 
toward the rear. Is that a block drain plug?
If so, can the block be flushed adequetly w/o removing that plug? (looks 
like it's a bear to get at).
Anyone have a suggested method or sequence for flushing the system?
TIA,
Tom 

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Tue Mar 11 18:35:39 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 21:35:39 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 Seat Dimension
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>
	<1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <014f01c883e1$634e8670$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>

My son has come across a pair of seats from 2001 Eclipse that look really 
good ... my car is at the paint shop so I cannot measure the maximum width 
of seat that can be fitted in a TR6.  I know that a Miata/MX5 seat will 
fi:t: does anyone know if an Eclipse seat will fit in that space.  I 
measured the TR6 seats that I have taken out and they are 21" at the widest 
point (they may well have been more narrow at an earier point in their 
lives!).

Thanks, Tony Gordon
72 TR6

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 11 18:48:59 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 17:48:59 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 rebuild/new brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <d09.2dc3a25c.35087896@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080312004858.VNFR2695.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

	From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com] 
> I bought a bending tool at HF that does really tight radius bends.

Which one was that, David ?  This thing :
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95782
??

Randall

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Tue Mar 11 19:13:36 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 22:13:36 EDT
Subject: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs
Message-ID: <c88.251f8ec6.35089650@aol.com>

Assuming this is one of a pair of carbs, there's always the possibility  that 
the pistons got swapped between the two carbs somewhere in the past. If you  
don't find any obvious damage, you could try swapping either pistons or domes  
and see if it helps.  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From stagbytriumph at tscusa.org  Tue Mar 11 19:14:16 2008
From: stagbytriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:14:16 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR4 rebuild/new brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <cd09b7f10803111348n7b83c791u6f9d8681f0864ce4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <cd09b7f10803111348n7b83c791u6f9d8681f0864ce4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47D73C78.7000006@tscusa.org>

Lee&John Howard wrote:
> Following the FLAPS brake line thread, I realize that my new TR4 sat for at
> least three years before coming to me. The car was heavily driven in its
> first 40 years - 200M + miles - so/and I am rebuilding all hydraulics. With
> the engine out the front end brake lines are a straight-forward
> replacement, but from there back it looks like a job and a half. Has anyone
> out there done this?
> Also, I would go with Moss's cupro-nickel kit and a bending tool from my
> FLAPS.
> Would appreciate any comments/thoughts/warnings etc.
> TIA
> John Howard
>
>   
John,
Depending on where you live, "copper" lines are, for the most part, 
illegal in most USA States - at least those that have inspections.  
Nickel Copper lines, sometimes called "Bundy" copper, although "harder" 
than the UK style copper lines, do not meet Federal specification as 
"steel" lines.  If the lines are silver colored, you might get away with 
it, but if they are copper colored you may have a difficult time if the 
inspection garage knows their stuff.
In the USA, we recommend ClassicTube.com.  Lines are prebent steel or as 
an adder, stainless steel, which are difficult to seal in properly brass 
or bronze materials without a bit of preparation to the flares ends 
before torquing down.

If I recall correctly, a full set for a Stag were $179 in steel, $199 in 
stainless and were a perfect fit.

TR4A full set price online is $175 in Steel
http://www.classictube.com/prodview.asp?idno=5505&searchtype=&partno=TR1004

So for a lot less hassle, you might consider the proper lines prebent 
with the correct angle flares from a professional supplier in the USA.

Cheers!
Glenn Merrell
TSC USA Chairman
S-TTA-G 2009 Charity Rebuild coordinator team
TSN Admin

From spitlist at cox.net  Tue Mar 11 19:16:23 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 19:16:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <c88.251f8ec6.35089650@aol.com>
References: <c88.251f8ec6.35089650@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000901c883e7$11bdbaf0$0302a8c0@newcomputer>

Or sometimes simply rotating the dome 180 degrees will free it!

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
ZoboHerald at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 7:14 PM
To: foxtrapper at aceweb.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] Pistons Sticking - HS4 Carbs

Assuming this is one of a pair of carbs, there's always the possibility
that 
the pistons got swapped between the two carbs somewhere in the past. If you

don't find any obvious damage, you could try swapping either pistons or
domes  
and see if it helps.  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Tue Mar 11 19:16:38 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 22:16:38 EDT
Subject: [TR] cleaning cooling system
Message-ID: <cd8.25e04a8a.35089706@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/11/2008 7:53:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tom628 at verizon.net writes:

I have the radiator out of our '76 TR6 for installation of an electric  
cooling fan, and I'd like to flush the block based on the rusty stuff that  
came out of the radiator.
There's a large hex-head bolt or plug on the  starter side of the block 
toward the rear. Is that a block drain  plug?


==AM==
Yes!
==AM==

If so, can the block be flushed adequetly w/o removing that plug?  (looks 
like it's a bear to get at).
 
==AM==
No! Remove it, and then be prepared to probe around in that hole with a  
stiff wire or small screwdriver to loosen up what likely is many years' worth  of 
crud deposits. Keep going once water starts to flow...until it really,  REALLY 
gushes out of there.



 
 
--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Tue Mar 11 20:42:05 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 20:42:05 -0700
Subject: [TR] Wilwood Master Cylinders
In-Reply-To: <47C39DB8.3080503@comcast.net>
References: <47C39DB8.3080503@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <47D7510D.8010504@comcast.net>

I received my master cylinders today. I was pleasantly surprised to find
that they are identical to the Girling units right down to the fittings.
The yoke from the originals even threads on to the push rod. No need for
adapters.

$48 for name brand parts sure beats $69 or more for no name
reproductions from the big three.

Mike


Michael Lang wrote:
> I was perusing the Wilwood catalog today and discovered PN 260-6089
> "Compact Remote Master Cylinder" which matches the dimensions of the
> Girling units on the TR3A's. They can be ordered for $48 each off of the
> web. "Cheap" reproduction units are $70 or more from BPNW, TRF, etc.
> Anybody have any experience with using these?
>
> I haven't had time to  do a search for inlet and outlet fitting sizes.
> The Wilwood unit has 7/16-20 inlet and an 3/8-24 outlet which probably
> wouldn't be too difficult to adapt if they don't match.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 12 01:09:19 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 00:09:19 -0800
Subject: [TR] cleaning cooling system
In-Reply-To: <003e01c883db$6bcea380$2f01a8c0@Toms>
Message-ID: <20080312070920.HETC11478.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> Anyone have a suggested method or sequence for flushing the system?

Especially if you don't want to mess with that plug, my suggestion would be
to take it to your local radiator shop and pay them to flush it.  Most of
them have a gizmo that injects water mixed with air and chemicals, which
shakes loose gunk much better than what you can do with a hose; even with
the drain open.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed Mar 12 06:07:24 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 09:07:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
Message-ID: <000d01c88442$045a16a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

Does it hurt a newly rebuilt motor to up and change the oil brand?  oil
weight?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar 12 07:37:45 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 08:37:45 -0600
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
In-Reply-To: <000d01c88442$045a16a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <000d01c88442$045a16a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <001f01c8844e$b13a90a0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Paul,

I should think that this is the best time to change.  Of course, as with any
new engine, you need to abide by all the break-in precautions and make the
first change very early.  You want to be sure to select the weight that best
suits your driving climate and style.

There have been a number of threads on the subject of oil in the past
months. Last may I held an unscientific survey just to tally what others
were using.  Below are the results from those who responded:

7 for Castrol 20/50
2 for Valvoline 20/50
1 for Red Line 20/50
1 for 20/50 (no brand specified)
And a very interesting treatise on ZDDP, thank you Jonathan.


Best regards,

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!




-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dorpaul
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:07 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] oil changin'

Does it hurt a newly rebuilt motor to up and change the oil brand?  oil
weight?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Mar 12 08:59:17 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 09:59:17 -0600
Subject: [TR] Oil and Cam Followers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4454.1205289311.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4454.1205289311.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <869A37DE-5635-4E9D-BF90-22E7914E0A86@telus.net>

I copied the recent remarks from Shell and Peter A ( of MOSS Motors)  
to our local club's online discussion and received the following in  
reply.
Can anyone assist in locating the machine shop in question?

"On this subject, let's go further back - beyond what oil to use,
although the type of oil is also very important. A club member, Cam  
(since deceased so we can't ask him) had a
concern about going through so many cam followers in his TR3A in a
short period of time.

Somehow, I had the name of a good engine rebuilder in California and
Cam contacted the guy and used his services. He said that many of the
cam followers sold today are too soft on their running (flat top)
surface. In particular he mentioned those sold by Moss Motors, and
said that Moss' response to him when he complained they were selling
"soft" cam followers was to say that most people don't drive their
special classics hard enough or long enough to notice any damage to
the followers.

This engine rebuilder got a Rockwell Hardness Tester ( set of various
hardness diamond points, and a measuring device) and started testing
for himself the hardness of the cam followers he purchased for
rebuilding engines. This way he was able to spot and send back any
followers that tested as being insufficiently hard. He supplied Cam
with "hard" cam followers and, problem solved.

I'll see if I can dig up the name of this engine rebuilder. Anyone
out there recall the name from their discussions with Cam? I believe
I got the name from an American mag such as Vintage Racing."

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 12 09:49:16 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 09:49:16 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 rebuild/new brake lines?
In-Reply-To: <20080312004858.VNFR2695.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <d09.2dc3a25c.35087896@aol.com>
	<20080312004858.VNFR2695.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10803120949u55d0a3bse2806774d69a8b7d@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to David and Mike for leads on bending tools. HF's pliers are way
cheaper than Eastman's ( see
www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=10826&itemType=PRODUCT).

Good review on the Eastman tool, though reviewer may be in-house guy, who
knows.

John

On Tue, Mar 11, 2008 at 6:48 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

>        From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com]
> > I bought a bending tool at HF that does really tight radius bends.
>
> Which one was that, David ?  This thing :
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95782
> ??
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Wed Mar 12 09:53:27 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 09:53:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051553290.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803120953270.13283@hymn13.u.washington.edu>

Listers,
   I got the official word from Richard Bacchus at BMIHT:  They cannot tell me anything about my mystery TR4 using only the body-in-white number.  Dang.
   All I can do is narrow down the Commission number range some more using change points.  For that, I need more help from the early-TR4 owners out there:

   If your commission number is lower than about CT 11664, please tell me the following:

1. Which type of boot support rod do you have (folding or sliding)?  If folding, is the lower bracket welded to the inner fender, or just to the boot lip?
2. Is your spare tire anchored to a stamped steel loop that's welded to the boot floor, or a hook that's bolted to the frame crossmember?
3. Is there a small tab (for holding wire) welded to the horizontal surface of the bulkhead immediately forward of your voltage regulator?
4. Does your bonnet release mechanism have an ear on the right side that sticks up about an inch above everything else and then folds over toward the right side of the car?
5. Do your taillight lenses have concentric circles over the bulbs (L669) or vertical bars (L799)?

   Not to put anyone on the spot, but... it would be REALLY GREAT if I could get this data from CT611L (Mark Macy), CT2846L (Phil Ethier), CT5018LO (Steven Newell), CT5521LO (Darrell), CT7966L (Tom Fansher), and CT8904L (Ian)... plus any cars in between that I might have missed.
   Also, I am still accepting "body-in-white" numbers (see below).  So far, mine is still the lowest I've seen, at ZS 010966.

   Thanks again in advance!  I really appreciate it.
-Nick


On Wed, 5 Mar 2008 nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:

>  The "body-in-white" number is stamped into a welded-on tag in the left rear 
> wheel well, just behind and above the rear axle.  According to Piggott's book, 
> they were in place before the bodies got their final paint color (hence the 
> name).
>  Here's a photo of the general area on a different car:
> http://tinyurl.com/2vqnbq
>
> and a close-up of mine after I scraped off some paint with a penny:
> http://tinyurl.com/yuwbuf

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Wed Mar 12 09:48:07 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 12:48:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Oil and Cam Followers
In-Reply-To: <869A37DE-5635-4E9D-BF90-22E7914E0A86@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4454.1205289311.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<869A37DE-5635-4E9D-BF90-22E7914E0A86@telus.net>
Message-ID: <66B6C84B66004210848D29225490BC58@marcydesk>

Just as another point of reference. When I purchased my camshaft from 
Intergral camshaft design , he asked for my followers to Rockwell test & 
dress to the cam. If I remember correctly I sent him more than needed & some 
failed. I think it's a good idea to have the machine shop prepare them for 
the cam.

I did the standard break-in on a fresh motor, used conventional motor oil 
for the first 2,000 miles & then  used Mobil 1 since. Four years later and 
plenty of miles all is good.


Mitch Seff

From pethier at comcast.net  Wed Mar 12 10:19:54 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 17:19:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
Message-ID: <031220081719.15373.47D810BA00006A5500003C0D22155786749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

CT2846L is not here in the office just now.

Original boot was folding prop rod.  Details to come.

I never saw the original taillight lenses.  Car had mismatched amber lenses when I got it.  Now it has repro red lenses.

I'll check out all the other stuff when I get a chance.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 12 10:59:04 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 10:59:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803120953270.13283@hymn13.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051553290.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
	<Pine.LNX.4.43.0803120953270.13283@hymn13.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10803121059l26e78738k7d0dbf57142c9e1d@mail.gmail.com>

A very late "body-in-white"  number fro your data-base

CT38746L ( called a '65 )       ZS48829

John Howard

From foxtrapper at aceweb.com  Wed Mar 12 11:32:16 2008
From: foxtrapper at aceweb.com (Nolan)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 14:32:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
References: <000d01c88442$045a16a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <002001c8846f$663e3bd0$8f29c40a@mde.state.md.us>

Changing brand or viscosity will not bother a newly rebuilt engine any more 
than it would bother an old engine.

Use intelligence on what you chose to use.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 9:07 AM
Subject: [TR] oil changin'


> Does it hurt a newly rebuilt motor to up and change the oil brand?  oil
> weight?
> Thanks,
> Paul Dorsey
> 60 TR3

From lbc.resto at comcast.net  Wed Mar 12 11:52:49 2008
From: lbc.resto at comcast.net (Ian)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 14:52:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803120953270.13283@hymn13.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803051553290.8898@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
	<Pine.LNX.4.43.0803120953270.13283@hymn13.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <003d01c88472$456eda10$0302a8c0@RAS>

CT8904L

1 - Sliding.
2 - Hook that's bolted to the frame crossmember.
3 - Yes.
4 - No.
5 - Unknown - replacement lens.

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
nwolf at u.washington.edu
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 12:53 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points

Listers,
   I got the official word from Richard Bacchus at BMIHT:  They cannot tell
me anything about my mystery TR4 using only the body-in-white number.  Dang.
   All I can do is narrow down the Commission number range some more using
change points.  For that, I need more help from the early-TR4 owners out
there:

   If your commission number is lower than about CT 11664, please tell me
the following:

1. Which type of boot support rod do you have (folding or sliding)?  If
folding, is the lower bracket welded to the inner fender, or just to the
boot lip?
2. Is your spare tire anchored to a stamped steel loop that's welded to the
boot floor, or a hook that's bolted to the frame crossmember?
3. Is there a small tab (for holding wire) welded to the horizontal surface
of the bulkhead immediately forward of your voltage regulator?
4. Does your bonnet release mechanism have an ear on the right side that
sticks up about an inch above everything else and then folds over toward the
right side of the car?
5. Do your taillight lenses have concentric circles over the bulbs (L669) or
vertical bars (L799)?

   Not to put anyone on the spot, but... it would be REALLY GREAT if I could
get this data from CT611L (Mark Macy), CT2846L (Phil Ethier), CT5018LO
(Steven Newell), CT5521LO (Darrell), CT7966L (Tom Fansher), and CT8904L
(Ian)... plus any cars in between that I might have missed.
   Also, I am still accepting "body-in-white" numbers (see below).  So far,
mine is still the lowest I've seen, at ZS 010966.

   Thanks again in advance!  I really appreciate it.
-Nick


On Wed, 5 Mar 2008 nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote:

>  The "body-in-white" number is stamped into a welded-on tag in the left
rear 
> wheel well, just behind and above the rear axle.  According to Piggott's
book, 
> they were in place before the bodies got their final paint color (hence
the 
> name).
>  Here's a photo of the general area on a different car:
> http://tinyurl.com/2vqnbq
>
> and a close-up of mine after I scraped off some paint with a penny:
> http://tinyurl.com/yuwbuf
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as lbc.resto at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From trhouse at greenapple.com  Wed Mar 12 12:40:51 2008
From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 14:40:51 -0500
Subject: [TR] FW: Triumph TR3s and TR4s
In-Reply-To: <005101c88464$7b5b82d0$54cfe004@goodwinpublish>
Message-ID: <C3FD9BF3.441B%trhouse@greenapple.com>

----------
From: "CARL GOODWIN" <attlastt at frontier.net>
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 10:14:05 -0700
To: "Tom Householder" <trhouse at greenapple.com>
Subject: Fw: Triumph TR3s and TR4s


----- Original Message -----
From: CARL GOODWIN <mailto:attlastt at frontier.net>
To: John Bauer <mailto:jbauer at scca.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: Triumph TR3s and TR4s

John -- 
I was inquiring about the Triumph TR3s and TR4s. Since sending my e-mail, I
have heard from Jeremy Thoennes that the cars have been re-listed. Thanks
very much for listening to the SCCA membership.
Best regards,
Carl Goodwin
NEOhio Region
----- Original Message -----
From: John Bauer <mailto:jbauer at scca.com>
To: CARL GOODWIN <mailto:attlastt at frontier.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 1:06 PM
Subject: RE: Triumph TR3s and TR4s

Carl, 

I am confused.  What cars did we get rid of?  From which class?


Thanks! 



John



From: CARL GOODWIN [mailto:attlastt at frontier.net]
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 12:53 AM
To: Club Racing Board
Subject: Triumph TR3s and TR4s
 
SCCA Competition Board
Dear Sirs or Madams,
 
Here's another vote for re-listing the Triumph TR3s and TR4s in the 2008 and
beyond Production Car Specs.
 
It is unfair to the owners of these cars to have put the investment into
preparing them and have that negated by an unexpected new rule.
 
For those few races that are spectator events, elimination of these cars
short-changes the spectators, who like to see a variety of machines and who
expect to see actual sports cars rather than race-prepared sedans.
 
Let's not get rid of any more sports cars. Don't forget, we're the Sports
Car Club of America.
 
Regards,
Carl Goodwin
NEOhio Region
179 W. Main St.
Norwalk, OH 44857
(419)668-2563
attlastt at frontier.net
This communication may contain information that is confidential, privileged,
or proprietary.
If you are not the intended recipient, please note that any dissemination,
distribution, or
copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. Anyone who receives
this message in 
error should notify the sender immediately by telephone or by return e-mail
and delete it.




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12:17 PM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 12 14:14:41 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 13:14:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] Oil and Cam Followers
In-Reply-To: <869A37DE-5635-4E9D-BF90-22E7914E0A86@telus.net>
References: <mailman.4454.1205289311.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<869A37DE-5635-4E9D-BF90-22E7914E0A86@telus.net>
Message-ID: <3fab01c88486$1668cc30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I'll see if I can dig up the name of this engine rebuilder. Anyone
> out there recall the name from their discussions with Cam? I believe
> I got the name from an American mag such as Vintage Racing."

I don't recall the discussion with Cam, Don, but I do recall that Greg Solow
has said he 100% tests all new lifters and always finds a few bad ones.   He
is also a very well respected LBC engine builder here in CA and I believe he
has done engines for at least a few listers (tho not myself).  So might be
the rebuilder you're looking for ?

Greg Solow's Engine Room
125 Front St
Santa Cruz, CA 95060-4403
Phone: (831) 429-1800 
gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com

FWIW, Ken G. at British Frame and Engine offers an alternative solution :
sleeves to allow using Ford GT40 lifters that are reliably hard enough.

Randall

From douglasehamilton at shaw.ca  Wed Mar 12 13:27:07 2008
From: douglasehamilton at shaw.ca (Doug Hamilton)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 14:27:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] The Bank Job
Message-ID: <47D83C9B.6030203@shaw.ca>

Saw the movie last night!!!! Great movie to many lbc's to keep track of. 
It's actually a really good movie with out all the lbc's it's supposed 
to be a true story based in London in the early 1970's, which makes the 
two pristine TR3s seem a little out of place.
The movie was too good and too fast paced to play where's Waldo with all 
the lbc. I'll go see it again in six weeks when it's in the $5.00 
theatre and pay more attention to the lbc content.

Doug Hamilton
1960 Triumph TR3A
1963 Fiat Cabriolet

From wquincy at cox.net  Wed Mar 12 14:08:30 2008
From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 16:08:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel sending unit impedance
Message-ID: <344A58EC-03A4-4158-BCB0-569B57DEC178@cox.net>

I have a question regarding a '60 TR3 and the fuel sending unit, when  
I connect the fuel gauge it is pegged to full, upon disconnecting the  
wire from the sending unit it drops to E. When I measure the  
impedance of the sending unit, with the tank empty it shows 82 Ohms.  
I would like to know what the sending unit should measure when empty  
and full, so I have some idea where to go with this problem,  
additionally any other information regarding this problem would be  
appriciated.
Thanks

From tom628 at verizon.net  Wed Mar 12 15:12:54 2008
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 18:12:54 -0400
Subject: [TR] Thanks : Cooling system
Message-ID: <004301c8848e$391ea030$2f01a8c0@Toms>

Many thanks to all who responded to my cleaning questions. I got many very 
good suggestions.

Tom 

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Wed Mar 12 15:35:06 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 18:35:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Alternate Seats for TR6 question
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>
	<1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <004d01c88491$54f3fe60$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>

I'm looking for some help on the seat replacement front: my car is away 
being painted, so I cannot measure anything or do any real eyeball 
comparisons from photos and catalogs, hence a plea to the list!  I'm trying 
to find a comfortable (leather if possible) replacement seat for the car, 
and wondered whether anyone has had any success with seats of cars other 
than the Miata, which I've heard are an easy fit (is that true?).

I was looking at a pair of seats from an 2001 Eclipse (black leather) which 
(with the help of a TR6 owner off another list) we don't think they will 
fit -- too wide at the B-post (whereas the taper of the Miata seats seems to 
allows them to fit).

Also, the Acura Integra has seats that are 19" wide at the reclining hinge, 
and are still 19" wide 24" up from the frame ('though they do taper quickly 
after that).  I have looked at a 300z and the seats are somewhat similar to 
those in the Integra.

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
************************************** 

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 12 15:54:20 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 15:54:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel sending unit impedance
In-Reply-To: <344A58EC-03A4-4158-BCB0-569B57DEC178@cox.net>
References: <344A58EC-03A4-4158-BCB0-569B57DEC178@cox.net>
Message-ID: <400b01c88494$01f5c790$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have a question regarding a '60 TR3 and the fuel sending 
> unit, when  
> I connect the fuel gauge it is pegged to full, 

First thing to note is that the gauge housing must be grounded for proper
operation.  Without the ground, it may peg either full or empty, regardless
of the sender resistance.

> When I measure the  
> impedance of the sending unit, with the tank empty it shows 82 Ohms.  

Then either a defective or wrong sender.  On a TR3 sender (which is unlike
TR4-6), the empty resistance should be near zero.

> I would like to know what the sending unit should measure when empty  
> and full, so I have some idea where to go with this problem,  
> additionally any other information regarding this problem would be  
> appriciated.

There is a very detailed article at
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/fg_01.htm
with more than you ever wanted to know.  Written from an MG point of view,
but the gauge is basically identical to the TR3 (although the resistances
might be off just a bit).

If the back of your gauge doesn't look like the one shown on Barney's site
(with the slots & nuts), you may have the gauge from an early TR4, which
looks identical from the front but works backwards to the TR2-3 unit.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Mar 12 17:18:13 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 19:18:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] time capsule
Message-ID: <200803121918.13317.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

That TR3 time capsule on ebay that was mentioned a few days ago is now at 39K. 
Looks like the reserve has been met.

My goodness!

Bob

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Wed Mar 12 16:48:03 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 19:48:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc><1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<004d01c88491$54f3fe60$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>
	<81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B6FE48005B2@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <00ac01c8849b$837a8060$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>

Many thanks Stan.  The bracket information is particularly useful.  The 
seats look good too!

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: "Tony Gordon" <triumph at 2simpleusa.com>; "TR list" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:56 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question


The Miata seats do fit well although some brackets need to be purchased or 
fabricated to allow them to mount via the standard TR6 mounting holes. They 
are very comfortable and with modification the headrest speakers are very 
effective.

An example of the brackets (these are adapted from the How To Improve Your 
TR6 book) and the rail conversion is here:

http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Miata%20Seat%20Conversion/


This is what the seats look like when they are installed. These are mid 90's 
Miata seats in black fabric.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1705.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1703.jpg


And some close up images:

http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/

Some or all of the URL's above may wrap.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net 
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony 
Gordon
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:35 PM
To: TR list; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question

I'm looking for some help on the seat replacement front: my car is away 
being painted, so I cannot measure anything or do any real eyeball 
comparisons from photos and catalogs, hence a plea to the list!  I'm trying 
to find a comfortable (leather if possible) replacement seat for the car, 
and wondered whether anyone has had any success with seats of cars other 
than the Miata, which I've heard are an easy fit (is that true?).

I was looking at a pair of seats from an 2001 Eclipse (black leather) which 
(with the help of a TR6 owner off another list) we don't think they will 
fit -- too wide at the B-post (whereas the taper of the Miata seats seems to 
allows them to fit).

Also, the Acura Integra has seats that are 19" wide at the reclining hinge, 
and are still 19" wide 24" up from the frame ('though they do taper quickly 
after that).  I have looked at a 300z and the seats are somewhat similar to 
those in the Integra.

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Wed Mar 12 17:17:59 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:17:59 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question
Message-ID: <00e001c8849f$b2897b00$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>

Maybe a photo will help those eagle eyed amongst you ... here's a photo of 
the Eclipse seat I was hoping to fit into the car 
www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Seat.JPG

Tony

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Gordon" <triumph at 2simpleusa.com>
To: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>; "TR list" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question


> Many thanks Stan.  The bracket information is particularly useful.  The 
> seats look good too!
>
> **************************************
> Tony Gordon
> 72 TR6
> **************************************
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>
> To: "Tony Gordon" <triumph at 2simpleusa.com>; "TR list" 
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:56 PM
> Subject: RE: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question
>
>
> The Miata seats do fit well although some brackets need to be purchased or 
> fabricated to allow them to mount via the standard TR6 mounting holes. 
> They are very comfortable and with modification the headrest speakers are 
> very effective.
>
> An example of the brackets (these are adapted from the How To Improve Your 
> TR6 book) and the rail conversion is here:
>
> http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Miata%20Seat%20Conversion/
>
>
> This is what the seats look like when they are installed. These are mid 
> 90's Miata seats in black fabric.
>
> http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1705.jpg
>
> http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1703.jpg
>
>
> And some close up images:
>
> http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/
>
> Some or all of the URL's above may wrap.
>
> Stan

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Wed Mar 12 17:18:00 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:18:00 EDT
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
Message-ID: <c3b.2e614575.3509ccb8@aol.com>

I am in the process of rebuilding the master cylinder for the  clutch in my 
six. I am having a problem disassembling the piston in the MC.  I have removed 
the rubber boot, taken the circlip out and removed the push rod  and washer. I 
thought the piston would then come out but it won't. I can push  the piston 
against the spring into the bore and the spring will push it back up  and just 
stop where the circlip was. It sounds like metal on metal when it  reaches the 
top. There seems to be a lip in the cylinder holding the piston in.  How do I 
remove this. Should I try scraping it out with a knife while holding  the 
piston down with a screw driver? Any hints would be appreciated. 
 
TIA,
Peter Schoppelry
'69 TR6
CC26418L



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Mar 12 17:26:16 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:26:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] time capsule
Message-ID: <c37.27aed8d5.3509cea8@aol.com>

Bidding and Paying are apparently two different subjects, from what I have  
read in other forums.  The end of bidding is the prelude to the slap of  
reality.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Mar 12 18:03:05 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 21:03:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
Message-ID: <d47.238e17b8.3509d749@aol.com>

With the bore facing downward slam it very hard at an angle onto a wooden  
surface.  I use my workbench.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From steven at newellboys.com  Wed Mar 12 18:45:47 2008
From: steven at newellboys.com (Steven Newell)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 18:45:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
In-Reply-To: <000d01c88442$045a16a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <000d01c88442$045a16a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <47D8874B.8000903@newellboys.com>

dorpaul wrote:

>Does it hurt a newly rebuilt motor to up and change the oil brand?  oil
>weight? Thanks, Paul Dorsey
>
You should only change oil brands in alphabetical order. So if you start 
with Redline, you could change to Valvoline without problem, but not to 
Castrol.

Steven Newell, PhD, Fluif Dynamics
Littleton, CO USA

From culturevirus at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 12 19:10:40 2008
From: culturevirus at yahoo.com (culturevirus)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 19:10:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803120953270.13283@hymn13.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <423689.61069.qm@web54207.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Nick, here's the report for CT1272L:

1. Folding type, bracket welded to the boot lip
2. Spare tire anchor is a loop welded to the boot floor
3. Bracket on bulkhead is present
4. Bonnet release ear is present
5. Concentric circles on the taillight lenses

I didn't notice your request for the body number. I'll try to remember to check tomorrow...

nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: Listers,
   I got the official word from Richard Bacchus at BMIHT:  They cannot tell me anything about my mystery TR4 using only the body-in-white number.  Dang.
   All I can do is narrow down the Commission number range some more using change points.  For that, I need more help from the early-TR4 owners out there:

   If your commission number is lower than about CT 11664, please tell me the following:

1. Which type of boot support rod do you have (folding or sliding)?  If folding, is the lower bracket welded to the inner fender, or just to the boot lip?
2. Is your spare tire anchored to a stamped steel loop that's welded to the boot floor, or a hook that's bolted to the frame crossmember?
3. Is there a small tab (for holding wire) welded to the horizontal surface of the bulkhead immediately forward of your voltage regulator?
4. Does your bonnet release mechanism have an ear on the right side that sticks up about an inch above everything else and then folds over toward the right side of the car?
5. Do your taillight lenses have concentric circles over the bulbs (L669) or vertical bars (L799)?

   Not to put anyone on the spot, but... it would be REALLY GREAT if I could get this data from CT611L (Mark Macy), CT2846L (Phil Ethier), CT5018LO (Steven Newell), CT5521LO (Darrell), CT7966L (Tom Fansher), and CT8904L (Ian)... plus any cars in between that I might have missed.
   Also, I am still accepting "body-in-white" numbers (see below).  So far, mine is still the lowest I've seen, at ZS 010966.

   Thanks again in advance!  I really appreciate it.
-Nick



I am culturevirus
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From leejohn7 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 12 19:38:47 2008
From: leejohn7 at gmail.com (Lee&John Howard)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 19:38:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
In-Reply-To: <d47.238e17b8.3509d749@aol.com>
References: <d47.238e17b8.3509d749@aol.com>
Message-ID: <cd09b7f10803121938x68cd1f92q250f467924981847@mail.gmail.com>

I just this week had the same problem. I soaked it repeatedly in PB Blaster,
left it overnight, slammed it straight down until the piston finally came
flush to the end. Then a diagonal tapping dislodged it. I also had to clean
a lot of crud out of the bore. If it is frozen, first tap it further in to
break the gunk seal.
John

On Wed, Mar 12, 2008 at 7:03 PM, <DLylis at aol.com> wrote:

> With the bore facing downward slam it very hard at an angle onto a wooden
> surface.  I use my workbench.
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
> **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
> Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as leejohn7 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Mar 12 20:12:09 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 23:12:09 -0400
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
References: <d47.238e17b8.3509d749@aol.com>
	<cd09b7f10803121938x68cd1f92q250f467924981847@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <007001c884b8$06df5e50$331c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Using a ==bath towel== turn the air pressure up and blow it out into the 
towel, I try to never use any tools as the bore can be scratched and leave 
the M/C uselesss 

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Wed Mar 12 20:24:23 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 23:24:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] Oil and Cam Followers by Don Spence
Message-ID: <c21.1b77fccc.3509f867@aol.com>

Don
I think you may be remembering Ken Gilander of British frame and engine. He 
is not a machine shop but a supplier of race quality parts. after a life time 
of racing a TR3 I found to have a little knowledge on the subject.
His web site is:
_http://www.britishframeandengine.com/parts1.html_ 
(http://www.britishframeandengine.com/parts1.html) 
 
NFI
Frank Fisher
TR3 TS 41366L



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From wbeech at flash.net  Wed Mar 12 22:38:14 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 23:38:14 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 Differential color
Message-ID: <003701c884cc$6ff4ad00$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Well, I spent much of today on my rear end.   
 
After using a putty knife to scrape all the crud from around the diff
housing I discovered it is dark red in color and the rear cover and axel
tubes appears to have been originally black.  Is this the correct color
combination for the TR3 in 1958?  I guess I was just assuming that
everything under the car was black.
 
I believe it all to be original to the car as the TS-xxxxx number are very
close to the commission & transmission numbers.
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"If I wasn't working all those years, I would not be able to afford a
Triumph!

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 13 05:00:55 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 08:00:55 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
Message-ID: <d15.1d6a6e97.350a7177@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/12/2008 8:46:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
steven at newellboys.com writes: 
> You should only change oil brands in alphabetical order. So if you start 
> with Redline, you could change to Valvoline without problem, but not to 
> Castrol.
> 
Does the same hold true for carbs?  If so, I'm stuck with these Zenith's.

Dave   

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Mar 13 05:56:25 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 08:56:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
In-Reply-To: <d15.1d6a6e97.350a7177@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47D8EC39.719.195528DD@localhost>

On 13 Mar 2008 at 8:00, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> steven at newellboys.com writes: 
> > You should only change oil brands in alphabetical order. So if you start 
> > with Redline, you could change to Valvoline without problem, but not to 
> > Castrol.

> Does the same hold true for carbs?  If so, I'm stuck with these Zenith's.

Unfortunately yes, but you can change the Stromberg parts to SU, no 
problem.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 13 06:10:32 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 09:10:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
Message-ID: <d10.206610e7.350a81c8@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/13/2008 7:56:58 AM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> On 13 Mar 2008 at 8:00, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> >steven at newellboys.com writes: 
> >>You should only change oil brands in alphabetical order. So if you start 
> >>with Redline, you could change to Valvoline without problem, but not to 
> >>Castrol.
> 
> >Does the same hold true for carbs?  If so, I'm stuck with these Zenith's.
> 
> Unfortunately yes, but you can change the Stromberg parts to SU, no 
> problem.
> 
Since SU stands for Skinners Union, I am afraid that that is not an option, 
either.

Dave   

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 13 06:19:42 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 06:19:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
In-Reply-To: <47D8874B.8000903@newellboys.com>
Message-ID: <670564.23478.qm@web57810.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

So if you use Valvoline,,  Let's not forget about Wal-Mart Super Tech oil.  Yes that is the true name and I read an article that rated many brands, and it was # 2 as I remember.  But, # 1 was Pennzoil,  so the article must be bogus. Maybe if the A to Z scenario is correct, then Walmart is just waiting at the end of the chain.

Steven Newell <steven at newellboys.com> wrote:   dorpaul wrote:

>Does it hurt a newly rebuilt motor to up and change the oil brand? oil
>weight? Thanks, Paul Dorsey
>
You should only change oil brands in alphabetical order. So if you start 
with Redline, you could change to Valvoline without problem, but not to 
Castrol.

Steven Newell, PhD, Fluif Dynamics
Littleton, CO USA
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 13 06:19:52 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 06:19:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
In-Reply-To: <47D8874B.8000903@newellboys.com>
Message-ID: <141883.95863.qm@web57811.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

So if you use Valvoline,,  Let's not forget about Wal-Mart Super Tech oil.  Yes that is the true name and I read an article that rated many brands, and it was # 2 as I remember.  But, # 1 was Pennzoil,  so the article must be bogus. Maybe if the A to Z scenario is correct, then Walmart is just waiting at the end of the chain.

Steven Newell <steven at newellboys.com> wrote:   dorpaul wrote:

>Does it hurt a newly rebuilt motor to up and change the oil brand? oil
>weight? Thanks, Paul Dorsey
>
You should only change oil brands in alphabetical order. So if you start 
with Redline, you could change to Valvoline without problem, but not to 
Castrol.

Steven Newell, PhD, Fluif Dynamics
Littleton, CO USA
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From zoboherald at aol.com  Thu Mar 13 06:44:43 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 09:44:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
In-Reply-To: <d15.1d6a6e97.350a7177@cs.com>
References: <d15.1d6a6e97.350a7177@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8CA532786D97602-1078-32FA@Webmail-mg04.sim.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave1massey at cs.com

In a message dated 3/12/2008 8:46:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
steven at newellboys.com writes:
> You should only change oil brands in alphabetical order. So if you 
start
> with Redline, you could change to Valvoline without problem, but not 
to
> Castrol.
>
Does the same hold true for carbs?  If so, I'm stuck with these 
Zenith's.

==AM==
No, just start over....Amal, [B?], Carter, Dellorto....

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From tr3bob at cox.net  Thu Mar 13 07:25:16 2008
From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 10:25:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 fuel sending unit impedance
In-Reply-To: <344A58EC-03A4-4158-BCB0-569B57DEC178@cox.net>
Message-ID: <20080313102516.55P8Z.14136.imail@eastrmwml23.mgt.cox.net>

Bill,

To add to Randall's comments, I purchased a "new" sending unit for my '60 TR3 from one of the big three. When I sent my gauge to Nisonger for a rebuild, they suggested that I also include the sending unit....they wanted to match the impedence.

I got a call from Nisonger later that week saying that they were returning the sending unit me and suggested that I ship it back to the manufacturer. Seems the "new" sending unit was wound with a different size wire and would be impossible to calibrate to my original gauge.

I did return the "new" sending unit and Nisonger ended up rebuilding my original sending unit that I thought was junk. Live and learn.

FWIW

Bob Stahlbush, pres., British Motorcars of NE (2001-2006)

60 TR3A
66 MGB
70 BSA T-Bolt
70 BSA Lightning
76 Midget
83 XJ-6   


This is 
---- "William C. Quincy" <wquincy at cox.net> wrote: 
> I have a question regarding a '60 TR3 and the fuel sending unit, when  
> I connect the fuel gauge it is pegged to full, upon disconnecting the  
> wire from the sending unit it drops to E. When I measure the  
> impedance of the sending unit, with the tank empty it shows 82 Ohms.  
> I would like to know what the sending unit should measure when empty  
> and full, so I have some idea where to go with this problem,  
> additionally any other information regarding this problem would be  
> appriciated.
> Thanks
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as tr3bob at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar 13 07:37:29 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 07:37:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
In-Reply-To: <8CA532786D97602-1078-32FA@Webmail-mg04.sim.aol.com>
References: <d15.1d6a6e97.350a7177@cs.com>
	<8CA532786D97602-1078-32FA@Webmail-mg04.sim.aol.com>
Message-ID: <7C0FE856-5F9C-4350-9680-7C7C96BE6ACC@sbcglobal.net>

"B" would be for Bosch fuel injection...
Mike Denman


On Mar 13, 2008, at 6:44 AM, zoboherald at aol.com wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dave1massey at cs.com
>
> In a message dated 3/12/2008 8:46:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
> steven at newellboys.com writes:
>> You should only change oil brands in alphabetical order. So if you
> start
>> with Redline, you could change to Valvoline without problem, but not
> to
>> Castrol.
>>
> Does the same hold true for carbs?  If so, I'm stuck with these
> Zenith's.
>
> ==AM==
> No, just start over....Amal, [B?], Carter, Dellorto....
>
> --Andy  Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er,
> Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
> Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Mar 13 07:43:21 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 10:43:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
In-Reply-To: <d10.206610e7.350a81c8@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47D90549.4545.19B70F00@localhost>

On 13 Mar 2008 at 9:10, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:

> > >Does the same hold true for carbs?  If so, I'm stuck with these Zenith's.
> > 
> > Unfortunately yes, but you can change the Stromberg parts to SU, no 
> > problem.
> > 
> Since SU stands for Skinners Union, I am afraid that that is not an option, 
> either.

Weber isn't a bad place to end up though.

I tried using Webber carbs but now all I can do is grill hamburgers 
on the manifold.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 13 09:04:31 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 16:04:31 +0000
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
In-Reply-To: <c3b.2e614575.3509ccb8@aol.com>
References: <c3b.2e614575.3509ccb8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W35C67AB56799B90C1E91BE5090@phx.gbl>

Use compressed air to blow into the MC through the fluid inlet.  Cover the
bore of the MC with your palm when you do this.  The piston should pop out.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: PeterSchop at aol.com
> Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:18:00 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> CC: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
>
> I am in the process of rebuilding the master cylinder for the  clutch in my
> six. I am having a problem disassembling the piston in the MC.  I have
removed
> the rubber boot, taken the circlip out and removed the push rod  and washer.
I
> thought the piston would then come out but it won't. I can push  the piston
> against the spring into the bore and the spring will push it back up  and
just
> stop where the circlip was. It sounds like metal on metal when it  reaches
the
> top. There seems to be a lip in the cylinder holding the piston in.  How do
I
> remove this. Should I try scraping it out with a knife while holding  the
> piston down with a screw driver? Any hints would be appreciated.
>
> TIA,
> Peter Schoppelry
> '69 TR6
> CC26418L
>
>
>
> **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
> Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Mar 13 09:20:25 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 9:20:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
In-Reply-To: <007001c884b8$06df5e50$331c7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <20080313122025.YECYG.421790.root@fepweb04>

---- FRED E THOMAS <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net> wrote: 
> Using a ==bath towel== turn the air pressure up and blow it out into the 
> towel, I try to never use any tools as the bore can be scratched and leave 
> the M/C uselesss 

But the part of the bore that is preventing the piston from coming out isn't the part that is a sealing surface...I'd get some fine emery cloth and knock the rust/corrosion down a bit, then pop it out with air or inertia.  Should help to keep the piston unscathed.

Jeff Scarbrough
Spitfires and a 6
Athens, Ga.

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Thu Mar 13 09:27:22 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 12:27:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] WAS Synthetic Oil Engine Damage now ZDDP
Message-ID: <bf4.20f25309.350aafea@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/10/2008 1:14:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes:

I hate  to be commercial but there is a lot of info on the Moss web site
under the  ZDDP products we offer (220-805, 220-810) about what has
happened, why and  what can be done.








yep
lots of good info there 
but the ZDDPlus oil additive (220-805) is not in stock
 
cheers,
Jack Mc



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From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Thu Mar 13 09:36:11 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 09:36:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] WAS Synthetic Oil Engine Damage now ZDDP
In-Reply-To: <bf4.20f25309.350aafea@aol.com>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD640D6@kb1.mossmotors.com>

I show 133 bottles in stock


Peter Arakelian
Purchasing Agent
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(805) 679-7214
(805) 692-2510 Fax
arakelianp at mossmotors.com



________________________________

From: McGaheyRx at aol.com [mailto:McGaheyRx at aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 9:27 AM
To: Arakelian, Peter; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] WAS Synthetic Oil Engine Damage now ZDDP


In a message dated 3/10/2008 1:14:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
arakelianp at mossmotors.com writes:

	I hate to be commercial but there is a lot of info on the Moss
web site
	under the ZDDP products we offer (220-805, 220-810) about what
has
	happened, why and what can be done.







yep
lots of good info there
but the ZDDPlus oil additive (220-805) is not in stock

cheers,
Jack Mc



________________________________

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From PeterSchop at aol.com  Thu Mar 13 10:14:08 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 13:14:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
Message-ID: <c34.2abbc3b1.350abae0@aol.com>

---- FRED E THOMAS <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net> wrote: 
>  Using a ==bath towel== turn the air pressure up and blow it out into the  
> towel, I try to never use any tools as the bore can be scratched and  leave 
> the M/C uselesss 

But the part of the bore that is  preventing the piston from coming out isn't 
the part that is a sealing  surface...I'd get some fine emery cloth and knock 
the rust/corrosion down a bit,  then pop it out with air or inertia.  Should 
help to keep the piston  unscathed.

Jeff Scarbrough
Spitfires and a 6
Athens, Ga.
 
Jeff, t
he problem with cleaning the bore with emery cloth is holding  the piston out 
of the way. The spring is pushing the piston against the  corrosion. I can 
hold it back with a phillips screw driver but the screw driver  is now in the 
way of cleaning it out..
 
Peter Schoppelry



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From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Mar 13 10:24:51 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 10:24:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
In-Reply-To: <c34.2abbc3b1.350abae0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080313132451.QM2QG.423880.root@fepweb04>

---- PeterSchop at aol.com wrote: 
>  
> But the part of the bore that is  preventing the piston from coming out isn't 
> the part that is a sealing  surface...I'd get some fine emery cloth and knock 
> the rust/corrosion down a bit,  then pop it out with air or inertia.  Should 
> help to keep the piston  unscathed.
>  
> Jeff, t
> he problem with cleaning the bore with emery cloth is holding  the piston out 
> of the way. The spring is pushing the piston against the  corrosion. I can 
> hold it back with a phillips screw driver but the screw driver  is now in the 
> way of cleaning it out..

Ahh...  I see a special tool on the horizon... <g>

From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 13 10:24:27 2008
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 10:24:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
In-Reply-To: <20080313122025.YECYG.421790.root@fepweb04>
Message-ID: <277126.37714.qm@web81407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

When I did thiss on a TR3A, I used a grease gun to
build pressure in the cylinder instead of air. It
leaves a mess to clean up, but the piston cannot
become a dangerous missile and the whole thing needs
to be cleaned up, anyway.

John Young


> ---- FRED E THOMAS <frede.thomas2 at verizon.net>
> wrote: 
> > Using a ==bath towel== turn the air pressure up
> and blow it out into the 
> > towel, I try to never use any tools as the bore
> can be scratched and leave 
> > the M/C uselesss 
> 
> But the part of the bore that is preventing the
> piston from coming out isn't the part that is a
> sealing surface...I'd get some fine emery cloth and
> knock the rust/corrosion down a bit, then pop it out
> with air or inertia.  Should help to keep the piston
> unscathed.
> 
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Spitfires and a 6
> Athens, Ga.

From david.brister at wanadoo.fr  Thu Mar 13 10:34:54 2008
From: david.brister at wanadoo.fr (David Brister)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 18:34:54 +0100
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
References: <d15.1d6a6e97.350a7177@cs.com>
	<8CA532786D97602-1078-32FA@Webmail-mg04.sim.aol.com>
Message-ID: <014e01c88530$8ce1c5b0$5a3bc953@DIANA>

> Does the same hold true for carbs?  If so, I'm stuck with these
> Zenith's.
>
> ==AM==
> No, just start over....Amal, [B?], Carter, Dellorto....
>
> --Andy  Mace

Many years ago I owned a Triumph motor bike of 1924 Vintage and I'm pretty 
sure it had a Brown and Barlow carburettor. ISTR it was made of Bronze or 
Brass! That should do!

David Brister
1967 TR4A(now starting to enjoy the spring weather.) 


-- 
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It has removed 500 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
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From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 13 11:00:02 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:00:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
Message-ID: <c59.28dd4fc0.350ac5a2@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/13/2008 8:44:42 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ZoboHerald at aol.com writes: 
> Does the same hold true for carbs?  If so, I'm stuck with these 
> Zenith's.
> 
> ==AM==
> No, just start over....Amal, [B?], Carter, Dellorto....
> 
> --Andy  Mace
> 
Well, since this is a four cycle engine I get three more tries, right?

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 13 11:06:47 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:06:47 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
Message-ID: <c55.2b2896fe.350ac737@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/13/2008 9:43:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
jimmuller at rcn.com writes: 
> I tried using Webber carbs but now all I can do is grill hamburgers 
> on the manifold.
> 
I once had a car with a Rochester carburetor but all it did was say "Yes, Mr. 
Benny."

Dave   

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Thu Mar 13 11:13:21 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:13:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
Message-ID: <ccc.2c31cf82.350ac8c1@aol.com>

With the bore facing downward slam it very hard at an angle onto a wooden  
surface.  I use my workbench.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A  TS74461LO



 
Thanks to all who responded to my post on removing the piston from the  
clutch master cylinder. Most post were to slam it down on a wooden surface and  
even to use PB Blaster first. Others were to cover with a towel and then use  
compressed air. I had my doubts, but I slammed it onto my work bench and the  
piston went to the end of the bore. I then continued to tap it on the bench  
where the flange bolts on the firewall. The piston came out far enough to grab a  
hold and pull it out.
 
After looking at the piston, I noticed that most of the chrome coating has  
worn off the sides. Is it OK to use this way after replacing the seals?
 
Peter Schoppelry
'69 TR6
CC26418L




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From flashtr3 at cox.net  Thu Mar 13 11:48:22 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 11:48:22 -0700
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
References: <c55.2b2896fe.350ac737@cs.com>
Message-ID: <00d801c8853a$d064e650$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Dave ,
You are showing your age with Mr. Benny.
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dave1massey at cs.com
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 11:06 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] oil changin'


  In a message dated 3/13/2008 9:43:52 AM Central Daylight Time,
  jimmuller at rcn.com writes:
  > I tried using Webber carbs but now all I can do is grill hamburgers
  > on the manifold.
  >
  I once had a car with a Rochester carburetor but all it did was say "Yes,
Mr.
  Benny."

  Dave
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
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  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

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From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Thu Mar 13 12:59:24 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 12:59:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points - Home stretch!
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803131259240.16014@hymn12.u.washington.edu>

Thanks, Jerry!
   This list is so awesome.  :)
   Assuming my non-eared bonnet latch mechanism is original, this puts my car in the approximate range of CT 1273-5642 (late '61 to early '62).  There appear to be have been two change points in that period: The ear on the bonnet catch mechanism was omitted, and the anchor point for the spare tire was changed from a stamped loop to a hook.  My car lacks the ear and has the loop-type anchor, so it's right in between those (unknown) change points.
   In other words, we are really on the home stretch here.  My goal was to determine the year of the car, and I'm really close.  Can I get a few more of you early TR4 owners to check for the characteristics below, particularly #2 and #4, particularly if your commission number is in the range above?

   Again, thanks a million for all your help.
-Nick


> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 19:10:40 -0700 (PDT)
> From: culturevirus <culturevirus at yahoo.com>
> 
> Nick, here's the report for CT1272L:
> 
> 1. Folding type, bracket welded to the boot lip
> 2. Spare tire anchor is a loop welded to the boot floor
> 3. Bracket on bulkhead is present
> 4. Bonnet release ear is present
> 5. Concentric circles on the taillight lenses
> 
> I didn't notice your request for the body number. I'll try to remember 
> to check tomorrow...
> 
> nwolf at u.washington.edu wrote: Listers,
>    I got the official word from Richard Bacchus at BMIHT:  They cannot 
> tell me anything about my mystery TR4 using only the body-in-white
> number.  Dang.
>    All I can do is narrow down the Commission number range some more
> using change points.  For that, I need more help from the early-TR4
> owners out there:
> 
>    If your commission number is lower than about CT 11664, please tell 
> me the following:
> 
> 1. Which type of boot support rod do you have (folding or sliding)?
> If folding, is the lower bracket welded to the inner fender, or just
> to the boot lip?
> 2. Is your spare tire anchored to a stamped steel loop that's welded
> to the boot floor, or a hook that's bolted to the frame crossmember?
> 3. Is there a small tab (for holding wire) welded to the horizontal
> surface of the bulkhead immediately forward of your voltage regulator?
> 4. Does your bonnet release mechanism have an ear on the right side
> that sticks up about an inch above everything else and then folds over 
> toward the right side of the car?
> 5. Do your taillight lenses have concentric circles over the bulbs
> (L669) or vertical bars (L799)?

From trglory at comcast.net  Thu Mar 13 13:31:43 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 16:31:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3A hydraulic reservoir
Message-ID: <006801c88549$4026f1a0$c074d4e0$@net>

I piped up the hydraulics today but I'm not sure I did it correctly. The
reservoir has an internal baffle surrounding the outlet on the right of the
tank which is labeled "Clutch". However, the pre-bent pipes are configured
so that the long pipe going to the clutch MC ends up on the left and the
short pipe going to the brake MC ends up on the right. I spun the reservoir
around so that the smaller inter chamber labeled "Clutch" is on the left,
connects to the clutch and the labeling faces the firewall. The larger outer
chamber of the tank then connects to the brake.

Either the reservoir tank is labeled incorrectly or the pipes are
incorrectly bent. Should the clutch be connected to the smaller inner
chamber or doesn't it matter? My guess is that you would want the larger
supply of fluif (I believe that is the proper term on this list) to be
dedicated to the brakes. The factory ROM was absolutely no help. The
Autobook repair manual mentioned the two chamber reservoir on Girling
systems but never indicated which is which. Do I have my circuits correctly
piped or not?

TIA

Joe

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1:27 PM

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 13 14:05:40 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:05:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A hydraulic reservoir
In-Reply-To: <006801c88549$4026f1a0$c074d4e0$@net>
References: <006801c88549$4026f1a0$c074d4e0$@net>
Message-ID: <436b01c8854d$fe4b8fc0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> The
> reservoir has an internal baffle surrounding the outlet on 
> the right of the
> tank which is labeled "Clutch". 

Joe, I don't recall whether it's the right or left fitting.  But you are
correct, the smaller center reservoir should be for the clutch.

Also, the pipe labeled 'clutch' in the SPC is used for the brakes on LHD
cars; likewise the pipe labeled 'brakes' is used for the clutch on LHD cars.
Since I don't recall there being any markings on my reservoirs, I'm
wondering perhaps if the markings you see are for a RHD car ?

Not sure it makes a lot of difference ... the reason for having a larger
reservoir for the brakes is to supply the extra fluid capacity of the front
calipers as the pads wear.  But the pads wear slowly enough that any TR3
owner today is bound to notice the low level long before it becomes
dangerous, and top up the reservoir.  Of course, then it may overflow when
new pads are installed, but that's a problem anyway.

Randall

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Mar 13 14:50:26 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 16:50:26 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A hydraulic reservoir
In-Reply-To: <006801c88549$4026f1a0$c074d4e0$@net>
References: <006801c88549$4026f1a0$c074d4e0$@net>
Message-ID: <200803131650.26500.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday 13 March 2008 03:31 pm, Joe Laurito wrote:
> I piped up the hydraulics today but I'm not sure I did it correctly. The
> reservoir has an internal baffle surrounding the outlet on the right of the
> tank which is labeled "Clutch". However, the pre-bent pipes are configured
> so that the long pipe going to the clutch MC ends up on the left and the
> short pipe going to the brake MC ends up on the right. I spun the reservoir
> around so that the smaller inter chamber labeled "Clutch" is on the left,
> connects to the clutch and the labeling faces the firewall. The larger
> outer chamber of the tank then connects to the brake.
>
> Either the reservoir tank is labeled incorrectly or the pipes are
> incorrectly bent. Should the clutch be connected to the smaller inner
> chamber or doesn't it matter? My guess is that you would want the larger
> supply of fluif (I believe that is the proper term on this list) to be
> dedicated to the brakes. The factory ROM was absolutely no help. The
> Autobook repair manual mentioned the two chamber reservoir on Girling
> systems but never indicated which is which. Do I have my circuits correctly
> piped or not?
>
> TIA
>
> Joe
>
Joe,

The smaller (inner) chamber is for the clutch. The outer or larger chamber is 
for the brakes.

Bob

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 13 14:20:49 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 16:20:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
In-Reply-To: <20080313132451.QM2QG.423880.root@fepweb04>
References: <c34.2abbc3b1.350abae0@aol.com>
	<20080313132451.QM2QG.423880.root@fepweb04>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W303EAD963709765F8CAC9FE1090@phx.gbl>

Put the phillips screw driver away and use a normal screw driver.
Now the phillips screw driver is not in the way of cleaning!
How easy was that!

Rich White  St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
See it moves!

> Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 10:24:51 -0700
> From: fishplate at charter.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; PeterSchop at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [TR] clutch MC will not come apart
>
> ---- PeterSchop at aol.com wrote:
> >
> > But the part of the bore that is  preventing the piston from coming out
isn't
> > the part that is a sealing  surface...I'd get some fine emery cloth and
knock
> > the rust/corrosion down a bit,  then pop it out with air or inertia.
Should
> > help to keep the piston  unscathed.
> >
> > Jeff, t
> > he problem with cleaning the bore with emery cloth is holding  the piston
out
> > of the way. The spring is pushing the piston against the  corrosion. I can
> > hold it back with a phillips screw driver but the screw driver  is now in
the
> > way of cleaning it out..
>
> Ahh...  I see a special tool on the horizon... <g>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 13 14:29:50 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:29:50 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Differential color
In-Reply-To: <003701c884cc$6ff4ad00$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <003701c884cc$6ff4ad00$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <437801c88551$5e8d68b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Well, I spent much of today on my rear end.   

Me too, but I was nowhere near a car !

> After using a putty knife to scrape all the crud from around the diff
> housing I discovered it is dark red in color and the rear 
> cover and axel
> tubes appears to have been originally black.  Is this the 
> correct color
> combination for the TR3 in 1958?  

On my 58, the housing was black as well (under all the dirt and grease).
Doesn't mean dark red is wrong of course.  TRA guidelines also say "usually
painted black".

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Thu Mar 13 15:10:19 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 18:10:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] oil changin'
Message-ID: <ccf.2958ee20.350b004b@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/13/2008 1:48:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
flashtr3 at cox.net writes: 
> Dave ,
>  You are showing your age with Mr. Benny.
>  Ibsen
>  
> >> 
>> 
> 
Say that again and I'll hit you with my cane!

Dave   

From OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar 13 15:47:46 2008
From: OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net (OKCSpitfire)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:47:46 -0500
Subject: [TR] OD Question
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1205434800.14911.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <20080313234703.C0DCE187643@autox.team.net>

I have a 78 Spitfire J type over drive that I installed in my 76 Spit. I
noticed the other day while driving it I was going up a hill and the engine
began racing but not gaining speed. It was like the clutch was slipping  but
it has a new clutch. Can the OD slip? If so does it mimic a slipping clutch?

Thanks 

Jerry
OKCSpitfire

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Checked by AVG Free Edition. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.6/1318 - Release Date: 3/7/2008
2:01 PM

From rx74evr at mchsi.com  Thu Mar 13 16:22:13 2008
From: rx74evr at mchsi.com (rx74evr at mchsi.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 18:22:13 -0500
Subject: [TR] Early 74 TR6 needed for parts, anyone got one?
Message-ID: <004201c88561$123f7650$6500a8c0@butterb3msfn9p>

Hello all !

I am looking for an early ( pre CF27000 ) 74 TR6 for parts, does anyone have
one or know of one available?  Near Chicago would be nice, but I will travel
wherever for the right car, try me!  Email me off the list if you can help.
(No Doug, i dont need yours...LOL)

Thanks

Paul

rx74evr at mchsi.com

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 13 17:17:37 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:17:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] OD Question
In-Reply-To: <20080313234703.C0DCE187643@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1205434800.14911.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<20080313234703.C0DCE187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <440401c88568$cf112740$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Can the OD slip?

Yes.

> If so does it mimic a 
> slipping clutch?

A slipping OD normally cannot let the engine rev any higher than it would
with the OD disengaged.  

A double fault (both main clutch and sprag clutch slipping) might let it rev
higher, but it's very unusual for the sprag clutch to slip without other
serious damage to the unit.

Randall

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Thu Mar 13 18:03:29 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 21:03:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] OD Question
In-Reply-To: <20080313234703.C0DCE187643@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1205434800.14911.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <47D996A1.325.1BEECE04@localhost>

On 13 Mar 2008 at 17:47, OKCSpitfire wrote:

> Can the OD slip? If so does it mimic a slipping clutch?

Yes and yes.  A typical cause would be low oil in the gearbox so that 
it loses hydraulic pressure and can't stay engaged fully.  The fact 
that this happened when you were going uphill may be a clue.

On the other hand it could be something else such as severely worn 
clutch surfaces in the OD.  I'd top off the tranny oil first, see if 
it happens again.

Could it actually have been the clutch slipping?  Or did you turn off 
the OD and the slipping stopped?

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Thu Mar 13 22:25:36 2008
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 18:25:36 +1300
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <001601c88593$d5b0a730$6e01a8c0@athlon>

My car has 3 degrees negative caster because the top wishbones are on the
wrong side.
Before fixing this problem I thought that I would have a look at the trunnions
to make sure the left and right handed are not transposed.
Well they are both marked PT NO 5L02202, with the markings on the front side
of the left and rear side of the right.
I assume that I have either 2x 0 degree trunnions or 2x left Trunnions. I also
assume that the 0 and 3 degree trunnions look different. If they do can
someone tell me if there is a photo somewhere of the different types and also
can someone tell me if they recognise the part no..
I looked the part nos up on Moss but they are not current numbers. There is
also a patent no on them if that helps.

Jim Vass and his black TR4 CT12168

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 14 00:19:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 23:19:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
In-Reply-To: <001601c88593$d5b0a730$6e01a8c0@athlon>
Message-ID: <20080314061901.PIAM24323.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> I also assume that the 0 and 3 degree trunnions 
> look different. If they do can someone tell me if there is a 
> photo somewhere of the different types 

Jim, I don't have a photo, but the 3 different trunnions (0 degree, 3 degree
left, 3 degree right) look virtually identical.  To see the difference, you
must look closely at the angle between the pins that stick out, and the
threaded bore for the vertical link.  With the 3 degree versions, you can
just barely see that the bore tilts a bit relative to the pins.  If memory
serves, it tilts to the rear (of the car).

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 14 05:24:02 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 08:24:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <c88.255286cb.350bc862@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/14/2008 1:19:31 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >I also assume that the 0 and 3 degree trunnions 
> >look different. If they do can someone tell me if there is a 
> >photo somewhere of the different types 
> 
> Jim, I don't have a photo, but the 3 different trunnions (0 degree, 3 degree
> left, 3 degree right) look virtually identical.  To see the difference, you
> must look closely at the angle between the pins that stick out, and the
> threaded bore for the vertical link.  With the 3 degree versions, you can
> just barely see that the bore tilts a bit relative to the pins.  If memory
> serves, it tilts to the rear (of the car).
> 
In addition, the 3 deg right and 3 deg left have opposite handed threads.  
That means you can't fit 0 degree trunions to both sides without swapping out 
vertical links.  (I expect the 0 deg trunion will fit one or the other but I'm 
not sure of that either)  It is still a possibility, however.  My TR6 had two 3 
deg left trunions on it.  A PO had fitted up a left hand vertical link and 
trunion on the right side (probably after an accident) which made for some 
really bizarre handling.  Once I got that sorted out handling improved greatly.

It is possible that you have early trunions and later upper arms which 
weren't meant to work together.  Sometimes mix-n-match doesn't work so well.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 14 05:32:08 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 08:32:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] OD Question
Message-ID: <cc1.2cb4c49c.350bca48@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/13/2008 5:48:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net writes: 
> I have a 78 Spitfire J type over drive that I installed in my 76 Spit. I
> noticed the other day while driving it I was going up a hill and the engine
> began racing but not gaining speed. It was like the clutch was slipping  but
> it has a new clutch. Can the OD slip? If so does it mimic a slipping clutch?
> 
Yes, it may, for reasons already discussed.  But don't fall into the trap (as 
I have on many occasions) that just because the clutch is new that it is 
good.  Especially with some of the questionable quality parts that seem to find 
their way into distribution.  Also, it is possible that the hydraulics are the 
problem and not releasing the clutch completely.  

Does the slipping seem to occur more predominately in lower gears (as would 
be the case if it were the OD) or in higher gears (which would suggest the 
foot-operated clutch)?

I suggest further investigate the clutch before you tear into the 
transmission.  (But check fluid level first)

Dave   

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Fri Mar 14 05:55:20 2008
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 05:55:20 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <152479.32032.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Its my recollection that TR2-3B and probebly early 4 vertical links also had a finer thread and more of it than the later 3 degree links on 4A and 6's.  As far as the left and right hand threads goes, I have a pair off the car and on the bench and if it will help, can let the list know which thread goes on what side!
 
Planning & Development Services
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673



----- Original Message ----
From: Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis <diggle at clear.net.nz>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 1:25:36 AM
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster

My car has 3 degrees negative caster because the top wishbones are on the
wrong side.
Before fixing this problem I thought that I would have a look at the trunnions
to make sure the left and right handed are not transposed.
Well they are both marked PT NO 5L02202, with the markings on the front side
of the left and rear side of the right.
I assume that I have either 2x 0 degree trunnions or 2x left Trunnions. I also
assume that the 0 and 3 degree trunnions look different. If they do can
someone tell me if there is a photo somewhere of the different types and also
can someone tell me if they recognise the part no..
I looked the part nos up on Moss but they are not current numbers. There is
also a patent no on them if that helps.

Jim Vass and his black TR4 CT12168
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar 14 07:37:11 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 14:37:11 +0000
Subject: [TR] Run out conclusion. (long)
Message-ID: <BAY110-W5446BEABA083F71A1C2411E50A0@phx.gbl>

I have resolved the shimmy in my front end.  Along the way I corrected several
problems.  The first was run out in my hubs.  Thanks to the list I had the
mounting surfaces of the hubs trued.  Then I discovered that my grease seals
had to be firmly seated to prevent run out in the hubs.

Next came the wheels.  I mounted them and measured the run out with a dial
indicator gauge.  Every time the gauge changed directions I marked the wheel
with the run out number.  Then I marked the mounting areas on the back of the
wheel where the run out was excessive (Over 0.010).  I then ground the
mounting surfaces on the wheels that corresponded to the high run out areas.
I used a pneumatic sander to do the grinding.  I got the wheels down to 0.025
run out this way.

I then took the wheels to be balanced at my usual tire store.  They again
presented problems on their balancing machine.  Their machine is the newest
kind that actually mount five pins into the lug bolt holes.  So I took the
wheels to another shop that had an older machine that only mounted at the
center hole of the rim.  There I got a different result.

The problem I have had was caused by the powder coating on my wheels.  I had
removed the powder coating from the mounting surface on the back of the wheels
but I didn't remove it from the center hole or the lug nut holes.  I removed
the powder coating from those areas and took the wheels back to the second
shop for rebalancing.  Once cleaned the balance changed and took a half once
off of the weight needed.

I mounted the wheels and went for a test drive.  The car has no shimmy in it
anymore and steers like a Cadillac.

Best regards,
Tom
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 14 10:05:37 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 09:05:37 -0800
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
In-Reply-To: <152479.32032.qm@web81307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080314160537.GMMB23786.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Its my recollection that TR2-3B and probebly early 4 vertical 
> links also had a finer thread and more of it than the later 3 
> degree links on 4A and 6's.

Not sure about the thread pitch, but the length was definitely longer on TR2
through the end of TR4 than on 4A through 6.

>  As far as the left and right 
> hand threads goes, I have a pair off the car and on the bench 
> and if it will help, can let the list know which thread goes 
> on what side!

The threads remained the same on both sides through the end of TR4.  The
trunnions were "handed" due to the angle between pin & vertical link; but
the links were the same from side to side (hence the threads were too).

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 14 10:08:27 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 09:08:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
In-Reply-To: <c88.255286cb.350bc862@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080314160827.XVFL8359.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

> In addition, the 3 deg right and 3 deg left have opposite 
> handed threads.  

I disagree.  The late TR4 had the same vertical link on both sides, so the
threads could not have been opposite handed.  That changed with the TR4A.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 14 09:18:33 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 12:18:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <d36.260e2877.350bff59@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/14/2008 7:55:52 AM Central Daylight Time, 
adcronin at ameritech.net writes: 
> Its my recollection that TR2-3B and probebly early 4 vertical links also 
> had a finer thread and more of it than the later 3 degree links on 4A and 6's.  
> As far as the left and right hand threads goes, I have a pair off the car 
> and on the bench and if it will help, can let the list know which thread goes 
> on what side!
> 
My guess is they are right hand thread.  But if the pitch is different then 
they are not interchangeable regardless of the direction.

Dave   

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 14 09:25:21 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 12:25:21 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <bfe.3209c9ff.350c00f1@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/14/2008 11:08:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >In addition, the 3 deg right and 3 deg left have opposite 
> >handed threads.  
> 
> I disagree.  The late TR4 had the same vertical link on both sides, so the
> threads could not have been opposite handed.  That changed with the TR4A.
> 
So are you saying the TR4 had different links than either the TR3 or the 
Tr4A-6?

Dave   

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 14 10:52:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 09:52:46 -0800
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
In-Reply-To: <bfe.3209c9ff.350c00f1@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080314165246.JDDV11478.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> So are you saying the TR4 had different links than either the 
> TR3 or the Tr4A-6?

No, the TR4 vertical links were the same as TR2-3.  When the caster was
added, the link itself did not change, only the location of it's upper end
relative to the lower end.  The A-arms, ball joint, trunnions, steering
levers, etc. all changed to tilt the link, but the link itself did not
change until the redesign with the TR4A.

Randall

From adcronin at ameritech.net  Fri Mar 14 11:21:32 2008
From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 11:21:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <757716.42228.qm@web81308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Regarding my earlier post on having a pair of links on the bench and could advise which side took left hand and which took right, that comment was in refrence to 4A through 6 Vertical links, and in my cars the pitch on the earlier cars was finer and longer in length than on the 4A - 6 cars  
A. Daniel Cronin
248 761-2673



----- Original Message ----
From: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 1:52:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster

> So are you saying the TR4 had different links than either the 
> TR3 or the Tr4A-6?

No, the TR4 vertical links were the same as TR2-3.  When the caster was
added, the link itself did not change, only the location of it's upper end
relative to the lower end.  The A-arms, ball joint, trunnions, steering
levers, etc. all changed to tilt the link, but the link itself did not
change until the redesign with the TR4A.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net

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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar 14 12:11:40 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 15:11:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Tape Question
Message-ID: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc>

Last year I re-wrapped Dan's wire harness with proper harness tape. For the
ends I then used regular black electrician's tape cut on an angle to secure
the harness tape. Well, most of those ends are now curling. Is there a tape
out there that's maybe heat activated (like heat shrink tubing) so that it
sticks to itself and won't curl? 
 
Bob........spending his day standing in an empty engine bay, cleaning, using
touch up paint and looking at tape coming unwrapped.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Fri Mar 14 12:15:34 2008
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 08:15:34 +1300
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <004901c88607$c729fd50$6e01a8c0@athlon>

My first thought was that the whole lot was reversed 28 or so years ago
(I've owned him for 23years).
It sounds like I might have to inspect them off the car for that angle between
the vertical and the pins.

Thankyou for the info.

From spitlist at cox.net  Fri Mar 14 12:37:13 2008
From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 12:37:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tape Question
References: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <003c01c8860a$ce03a740$2d02a8c0@Belkin>

There is an aircraft electrical tape that ahderes to itself which
isactivatedwhen itis stretched.  I have no idea whatit is called or where
you can get it.  I used it inthe USAF and it is fantastic stuff.

Joe C.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "'Triumphs'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "'6-Pack'"
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 12:11 PM
Subject: [TR] Tape Question


> Last year I re-wrapped Dan's wire harness with proper harness tape. For
the
> ends I then used regular black electrician's tape cut on an angle to
secure
> the harness tape. Well, most of those ends are now curling. Is there a
tape
> out there that's maybe heat activated (like heat shrink tubing) so that it
> sticks to itself and won't curl?
>
> Bob........spending his day standing in an empty engine bay, cleaning,
using
> touch up paint and looking at tape coming unwrapped.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From diggle at clear.net.nz  Fri Mar 14 13:31:08 2008
From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 09:31:08 +1300
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <000f01c88612$56113240$6e01a8c0@athlon>

Actually I was hoping that they were marked L or R or even in French D or G.
I had a look at the washers and they both seem flat normal ones.
It seems that the only real way to easily tell is to take both off and to
compare the slope of each of the trunnions surface.

Jim  and the black TR4

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 14 14:50:09 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 17:50:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <c33.2976dcf0.350c4d11@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/14/2008 11:53:09 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> No, the TR4 vertical links were the same as TR2-3.  When the caster was
> added, the link itself did not change, only the location of it's upper end
> relative to the lower end.  The A-arms, ball joint, trunnions, steering
> levers, etc. all changed to tilt the link, but the link itself did not
> change until the redesign with the TR4A.
> 
So it doesn't hurt the trunions to crank them a couple degrees out of shape, 
then.  My TR6 wasn't happy at all with the trunion cranked 6 deg out.

Dave   

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 14 15:08:37 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 15:08:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
In-Reply-To: <c33.2976dcf0.350c4d11@cs.com>
References: <c33.2976dcf0.350c4d11@cs.com>
Message-ID: <465501c8861f$f4ed26f0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> So it doesn't hurt the trunions to crank them a couple 
> degrees out of shape, 
> then. 

No, I didn't say that.  The late TR4 took different trunnions than the
TR2-early TR4; and being a "couple degrees out of shape" is the only
difference between the three different trunnions (0 degree both sides, 3
degree right and 3 degree left).  It is apparently possible to assemble them
that way, but unless things are badly worn, the result will be binding.

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Mar 14 15:14:19 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 18:14:19 EDT
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
Message-ID: <ce1.24eca086.350c52bb@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/14/2008 5:09:12 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >So it doesn't hurt the trunions to crank them a couple 
> >degrees out of shape, 
> >then. 
> 
> No, I didn't say that.  The late TR4 took different trunions than the
> TR2-early TR4; and being a "couple degrees out of shape" is the only
> difference between the three different trunions (0 degree both sides, 3
> degree right and 3 degree left).  It is apparently possible to assemble them
> that way, but unless things are badly worn, the result will be binding.
> 
Now you're confusing me.  You said they didn't change trunions (or vertical 
links) when they added caster to the TR4.  Now you say there are 0 and 3R and 
3L trunions.  Are these 3 deg trunions different than what is used on the 
TR4A-TR6?

Dave   

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 14 15:30:09 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 15:30:09 -0700
Subject: [TR] Trunnions later TR4 with 3 degree caster
In-Reply-To: <ce1.24eca086.350c52bb@cs.com>
References: <ce1.24eca086.350c52bb@cs.com>
Message-ID: <465d01c88622$f5e70ff0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Now you're confusing me.  You said they didn't change 
> trunions (or vertical 
> links) when they added caster to the TR4.

Well, I certainly didn't mean to say that ... what I tried to say is that
the vertical link did not change.  The trunnions DID change, and became
different from side to side.

>  Are these 3 deg trunions different than what is 
> used on the TR4A-TR6?

Yes, they are unique (AFAIK) to late TR4.  As I said, visually they look
nearly identical to the earlier trunnions, the only difference is the 3
degree angle between the pin for the A-arms and the threaded bore for the
vertical link.  I believe they were literally the same casting, just
machined slightly differently.

The 4A-6 trunnions look very different (starting with not having a pin at
all but a hole for a bolt).

Randall

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Fri Mar 14 15:30:15 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 18:30:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] Narrowing in on a lost commission number
Message-ID: <d30.282debd1.350c5677@aol.com>

My 63 has commission number BCT 14322 L and I was told the B  was for Belgium.
 
Robert B.  Houston

63 TR4
73 MG Midget
74.5 MGBGT

A dream will always  Triumph over reality, once it is given the chance. 
Stanislaw Lem  

 
In a message dated 3/9/2008 9:01:27 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

Darrell

If CT 5521 LO was built in Belgium, then the commission  number *should* be
1 CT 5521 LO. Maybe the original was never fitted or got  changed at some 
later
date? The 1 prefix was applied to all Mechelen built  cars to identy them as
Belgian  build.





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From jholekamp at sbcglobal.net  Fri Mar 14 16:09:49 2008
From: jholekamp at sbcglobal.net (Jay Holekamp)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 16:09:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Overdrive Question
Message-ID: <795079.6861.qm@web80412.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

In a message dated 3/13/2008 5:48:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
OKCSpitfire at sbcglobal.net writes: 
> I have a 78 Spitfire J type over drive that I installed in my 76 Spit. I
> noticed the other day while driving it I was going up a hill and the engine
> began racing but not gaining speed. It was like the clutch was slipping  but
> it has a new clutch. Can the OD slip? If so does it mimic a slipping clutch?

 
You also might want to check the pressure the overdrive hydraulic system is producing as the slipping occurs. I offer Overdrive Oil Pressure Gauges for A, D, J & LH Type Overdrives - details at:
http://tinyurl.com/505s
 
brgds, Jay
 
'64 Triumph TR4 since '67

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Mar 14 21:13:13 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 22:13:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 - $4500 of $6000 collected
Message-ID: <47DB4CD9.7010405@tscusa.org>

Hello All!

To date, $6000 has been pledged  http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/ and $4500 
collected.  So if you have not yet grabbed that checkbook to support 
this effort, please do so this weekend.

This is a much better cause than paying your taxes, and besides, you 
have to do something with your "Economic Stimulus Payment" our US 
Congress has so graciously stuck in your wallet in time for summer 
driving.  :-D
Any amount donated is greatly appreciated, and if you have already 
Pledged and not anted up, remember, we know who you are and where your 
Triumph is parked  ;-)
ah ... so we can send you your raffle tickets of course ...  8-)

The Stag is now sitting in Illinois at the Triumph and Quarter Horse 
Farm in Hampshire since about 8:00pm Sunday 9 March.

ISOA will be kicking off some off the dissection phase discussion at 
their annual ChiliFest Saturday 15 March, and after fueling up with the 
appropriate amount of greenhouse gases, will then descend on the Triumph 
and Quarter Horse Farm to warm the workshop and extract the engine to 
commence checking off the long list of restoration tasks.

An appropriate obedient scribe and historian has begun documenting this 
restoration process, so I would expect to see something pop up in the 
form of photos in the next 30 days.

In the mean time, do keep your eyes peeled for some of the sweet 
publicity we have planned to surface in the next couple of months.  
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

Thank you for your interest and participation in the Triumph Trans 
AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive!

Cheers!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
sTTAg 2009 Coordinator Team
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield ... and a winning TTA Stag raffle ticket!!

From triumphstag at gmail.com  Fri Mar 14 21:21:53 2008
From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy)
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 21:21:53 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tape Question
In-Reply-To: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <abc1aef30803142121r673c9924x78552a14aa8e60c8@mail.gmail.com>

I asked this question on the list sometime back.  Resue Tape was recommended
by a lister.  I have bought some, but have yet to use it.

http://www.rescuetape.com/

Sujit

On Fri, Mar 14, 2008 at 12:11 PM, Bob Danielson <
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> Last year I re-wrapped Dan's wire harness with proper harness tape. For
> the
> ends I then used regular black electrician's tape cut on an angle to
> secure
> the harness tape. Well, most of those ends are now curling. Is there a
> tape
> out there that's maybe heat activated (like heat shrink tubing) so that it
> sticks to itself and won't curl?
>
> Bob........spending his day standing in an empty engine bay, cleaning,
> using
> touch up paint and looking at tape coming unwrapped.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as triumphstag at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Mar 15 07:42:14 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 09:42:14 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 Transmission
Message-ID: <200803150942.14809.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

I have what I believe is a TR6 Transmission that I would like to use in my 3A 
but I note that the rear mount position is about 1/2 to 3/8 " longer than the 
3.

I have heard this discussion before that a plate can be made to adjust for the 
> distance.

Has or is there anyone out there who can either provide the details, sketch or 
photo of how it was done? Or better is there a supplier of the needed plate?

Seems to me that the plate where the transmission mount would be the part to 
be adjusted.

Bob

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Mar 15 07:17:05 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 10:17:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Wanted: best experience purchasing brake tubing (for TR4A
 (solid axle)
Message-ID: <d09.2e29daa7.350d3461@cs.com>

List:

Looking for some support.....

Looking for the best opportunity for ordering the brake tubing and fittings.

TR4A Chassis with Solid Axle Configuration.

Prebent tubing OK and may be preferred.

Stainless Steel OK, but not absolutley necessary.

Some custom fabrication will be required at the master cylinders. In the 
interest of time, it may be contracted out.

Your recommendation of source and configuration appreciated. Thanks!

Joe A
The-vintage-racer.blogspot.com

   </HTML>

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Mar 15 08:31:33 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 11:31:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
Message-ID: <d11.20ad0709.350d45d5@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/12/2008 12:54:10 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
nwolf at u.washington.edu writes:


1.  Which type of boot support rod do you have (folding or sliding)?  If  
folding, is the lower bracket welded to the inner fender, or just to the boot  
lip?
2. Is your spare tire anchored to a stamped steel loop that's welded  to the 
boot floor, or a hook that's bolted to the frame crossmember?
3. Is  there a small tab (for holding wire) welded to the horizontal surface 
of the  bulkhead immediately forward of your voltage regulator?
4. Does your bonnet  release mechanism have an ear on the right side that 
sticks up about an inch  above everything else and then folds over toward the 
right side of the  car?
5. Do your taillight lenses have concentric circles over the bulbs  (L669) or 
vertical bars (L799)?




1962 TR4 CT 5521 LO CKD or SKD?
1. Sliding & welded to the inner wing.
2. hook bolted to the crossmember.
3. Yes, the tab is present
4. No, but I have seen those on early Fours
5. Circles, Note that the original lenses may have been amber & red  with 
circles as seen on pictures of the unrestored car.
Cheers,
Darrell
Long Bubble Bonnet Too, which has all the appearance of being original to  
the car from pictures and testimony from the two previous  owners.



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From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar 15 09:05:21 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 16:05:21 +0000
Subject: [TR] Side curtains.
In-Reply-To: <d11.20ad0709.350d45d5@aol.com>
References: <d11.20ad0709.350d45d5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W5264093D783F929B03AF1FE50B0@phx.gbl>

I received my side curtain bag this week.  The side curtains fit very well
into this bag.  An excellent way to protect them during storage and travel.
The bag itself is made of very heavy vinyl and lined with very good felt.

Can anyone recommend a plastic cleaner for  cleaning up the plastic windows in
my side curtains.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star
power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan

From thomasb at queensu.ca  Sat Mar 15 09:32:16 2008
From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 12:32:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] Side curtains.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W5264093D783F929B03AF1FE50B0@phx.gbl>
References: <d11.20ad0709.350d45d5@aol.com>
	<BAY110-W5264093D783F929B03AF1FE50B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0JXS0017A61JLZ10@mta01.its.queensu.ca>

Hi Tom,

At 12:05 PM 2008-03-15, tom white wrote:
>Can anyone recommend a plastic cleaner for  cleaning up the plastic windows in
>my side curtains.

Believe it or not, BRASSO (available at Walmart, K-Mart, etc) does a 
good job of surface cleaning and MINOR scratch removal.  When I first 
got my TR8, the rear window was mostly that lovely opaque tan that 
clear vinyl tends to go when out in the sun too much.  The BRASSO got 
rid of the tan and improved the clarity enough that the window could 
now be seen through.

If you want to spend a little more money, Meguiar's makes a couple of 
products that also do a good job:
    * 17 - Professional Plastic Cleaner
    * 10 - Professional Plastic Polish
These are sometimes available in larger auto-parts stores but can 
just about always be found in a boat store (lots of plastic windows in boats).

I believe Autoglym also makes a product - did I see it for sale at 
TRF?   No personal experience with this however.

Let us know how you make out.

Cheers,

Brian

Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca
Holliday Point          work:   613-533-2228
R R 1                   fax:    613-385-1948
Wolfe Island, Ontario   home:   613-385-1947
K0H 2Y0         toys:   54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20  

From mlang99 at comcast.net  Sat Mar 15 08:40:49 2008
From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 08:40:49 -0700
Subject: [TR] Side curtains.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W5264093D783F929B03AF1FE50B0@phx.gbl>
References: <d11.20ad0709.350d45d5@aol.com>
	<BAY110-W5264093D783F929B03AF1FE50B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <47DBEE01.6010407@comcast.net>

Tom,

I have used the meguiars plastic cleaner and polish on soft top windows
with good results. See the following link:

http://www.meguiars.com/estore/product_list.cfm?sectionname=Consumer%20(Meguiar's%20Brand)%3EClear%20Plastic%20Care&sectionID=15101

Mike


tom white wrote:
> I received my side curtain bag this week.  The side curtains fit very well
> into this bag.  An excellent way to protect them during storage and travel.
> The bag itself is made of very heavy vinyl and lined with very good felt.
>
> Can anyone recommend a plastic cleaner for  cleaning up the plastic windows in
> my side curtains.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom

From agraham at execulink.com  Sat Mar 15 10:17:43 2008
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 13:17:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings
Message-ID: <200803151721.m2FHLZk7006789@smtp2.execulink.net>

Hello list:
Just in the midst of a transmission rebuild on the TR2 and must say 
am surprised on the condition of the box. Not too bad for over 40K 
miles. Wondering about the source of the 2 large main ball bearings 
on the main shaft. Are they available from bearing supply houses or 
are they proprietary "'Standard-Triumph" items available only from 
the big three?
Thanks for any help with this.

Angelo Graham
Waterloo, Ont.

From pethier at comcast.net  Sat Mar 15 10:27:26 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 17:27:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] Wanted: best experience purchasing brake tubing (for TR4A
 (solid axle)
Message-ID: <031520081727.11412.47DC06FE000959D200002C9422165579969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

When I did my Lotus, I bought a British brake-tubing kit from Seven in Virginia(?).  I believe the same kit is available from just about all the British suppliers. There is a coil of tubing and a gizmo you can place in your vise and use to make all the single or double flares to British specs.  I used the supplied tubing and also regular USA tubing I picked up at the local parts store.

(By-the-way, Rob, if you are reading, I just remembered that the Lotus supplier in England made a mistake and send me metric instead of English parts for the left front brakes.  I made them work.  Sorry about that.) 

I don't see why this wouldn't work out for a Triumph as well as a Lotus.
--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: N197TR4 at cs.com
> List:
> 
> Looking for some support.....
> 
> Looking for the best opportunity for ordering the brake tubing and fittings.
> 
> TR4A Chassis with Solid Axle Configuration.
> 
> Prebent tubing OK and may be preferred.
> 
> Stainless Steel OK, but not absolutley necessary.
> 
> Some custom fabrication will be required at the master cylinders. In the 
> interest of time, it may be contracted out.
> 
> Your recommendation of source and configuration appreciated. Thanks!
> 
> Joe A
> The-vintage-racer.blogspot.com

From cak at dimebank.com  Sat Mar 15 10:33:11 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 10:33:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Tape Question
Message-ID: <200803151733.m2FHXBMx017489@moose.dimebank.com>

Rescue Tape is good stuff, but I'm pretty sure it's not what the
factory used!

British Wiring (http://britishwiring.com/) has a selection of
tapes, including "self-bonding PVC harness tape" that is
not adhesive. I think that's what you want.

Best,
chris

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat Mar 15 11:12:30 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 13:12:30 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings
References: <200803151721.m2FHLZk7006789@smtp2.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <002901c886c8$22ca65d0$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

According to my shop manual, the pinion shaft bearing and the mainshaft 
center bearing, which are the same, appear to be a standard deep groove ball 
bearing, with external circlip (important!) manufactured (back then) by 
either Fischer (part no MS12 S.G.) or Hoffman (part no MS 12 K).  The 
mainshaft rear bearing is a Fischer 6206 or a Hoffman 130.

Moss lists the two larger bearings as part #525-030 and the smaller bearing 
as 525-150 at what I think are quite reasonable prices.  Maybe Peter 
Arakelian can tell you who the current manufacturer is.  It may well be 
Hoffman because Hoffman is part of RHP (which stands for Ransomes Hoffman 
Pollard, I believe), which is now owned by NSK.  I have no idea if Fischer 
still exists as a separate entity.

Mike


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Angelo Graham" <agraham at execulink.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 12:17 PM
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings


> Hello list:
> Just in the midst of a transmission rebuild on the TR2 and must say
> am surprised on the condition of the box. Not too bad for over 40K
> miles. Wondering about the source of the 2 large main ball bearings
> on the main shaft. Are they available from bearing supply houses or
> are they proprietary "'Standard-Triumph" items available only from
> the big three?

From peterara at msn.com  Sat Mar 15 12:19:55 2008
From: peterara at msn.com (Peter Arakelian)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 12:19:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Tape Question
Message-ID: <BAY114-DAV993B3F8F82A6E9877EEBFC10B0@phx.gbl>

>Is there a
> tape
> out there that's maybe heat activated (like heat shrink tubing) so that it
> sticks to itself and won't curl?


>I asked this question on the list sometime back.  Resue Tape was recommended
by a lister.

Moss has added Xtreme tape, 221-590, sounds like the same stuff - 5.95 for a 1
inch x 10 foot roll. Sticks only to itself, non-conductive, air and water
tight seal.


Peter Arakelian - '71 TR6, Daily Driver

From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net  Sat Mar 15 14:52:25 2008
From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 14:52:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 Transmission
References: <200803150942.14809.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <005c01c886e6$ebf2b110$8701a8c0@Dell>

Bob, when I put the TR4 OD in my TR3A, I removed the cross member, drilled 2 
new holes next to the existing holes, (in front or behind, can't remember) 
and then used a cutoff wheel on my Dremel to join the new and old holes to 
make them slots. Worked for me.
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: "Triumph Email List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 7:42 AM
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 Transmission


> Hello,
>
> I have what I believe is a TR6 Transmission that I would like to use in my 
> 3A
> but I note that the rear mount position is about 1/2 to 3/8 " longer than 
> the
> 3.
>
> I have heard this discussion before that a plate can be made to adjust for 
> the
>> distance.
>
> Has or is there anyone out there who can either provide the details, 
> sketch or
> photo of how it was done? Or better is there a supplier of the needed 
> plate?
>
> Seems to me that the plate where the transmission mount would be the part 
> to
> be adjusted.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 15 16:34:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 15:34:23 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR4 - TR6 Transmission
In-Reply-To: <005c01c886e6$ebf2b110$8701a8c0@Dell>
Message-ID: <20080315223423.KTPY10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> Bob, when I put the TR4 OD in my TR3A, I removed the cross 
> member, drilled 2 new holes next to the existing holes, (in 
> front or behind, can't remember) and then used a cutoff wheel 
> on my Dremel to join the new and old holes to make them 
> slots. Worked for me.

Ditto.

Randall

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Mar 15 15:40:28 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 18:40:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Never saw this before
Message-ID: <0c5b01c886ed$921dd960$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Has anyone ever saw one intake manifold on a TR3A (59) run cold enough to
collect condensation. This is happening on my front SU. Would a lack of gas
cause this. It appears that the car is not supplying enough as my glass fuel
filter runs with a small stream (at times). I am thinking fuel pump. Took the
top off last week to look at the diaphragm. All looked good. No tears, rips,
etc. Very pliable. Any ideas appreciated.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Mar 15 16:08:37 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 19:08:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] tap and die question
Message-ID: <002d01c886f1$80c518a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

What?  While looking at my TR3's master cylinders, I sought to clean out the
fixture threads.  It looks like the 3/8-24 thread is almost identical to 1/8
NPT?  Is this right or have I mixed up my tap and die set again?

Thanks, Paul  60 TR3

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Mar 15 16:30:37 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 18:30:37 -0500
Subject: [TR] tap and die question
Message-ID: <380-220083615233037390@earthlink.net>

First, a 1/8 NPT equals 27 threads to the inch.
A 3/8-24 of course makes 24 threads to the inch, they are not compatible.

Second, while the 3/8-24 tap cuts straight (parallel) threads, the pipe tap
cuts tapered, self sealing threads.

Each has its own purpose, they are not the same.

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN         .



> Subject: [TR] tap and die question
>
> What?  While looking at my TR3's master cylinders, I sought to clean out
the
> fixture threads.  It looks like the 3/8-24 thread is almost identical to
1/8
> NPT?  Is this right or have I mixed up my tap and die set again?
>
> Thanks, Paul  60 TR3

From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Sat Mar 15 16:53:25 2008
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 19:53:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration
Message-ID: <ccd.2db7598b.350dbb75@aol.com>

Here's another data point.   Sorry I'm joining the party late but the car is 
stored off-site and I just got a look at it today.
Comm no: CT 5460 L
Body tag no: 5562CT (riveted on, near voltage regulator)
Cannot find a tag in the LR wheel well (covered with thick undercoating)   If 
someone can tell me more specifically where to look, I'll do some scraping...

Configuration:
1. This car now has a sliding boot lid prop but it appears to have been added 
later because the prop is black (car is green) and bracket welded to edge of 
lip appears to have been brazed on.   Then I found a loose (green) prop rod in 
the boot.  It is 15.5" long, with a J-hook on one end and a pivot bracket 
attached to the other end.   The bracket is 3.25" long, L-shaped, and has one 
mounting hole and one mounting slot.   I cannot find where this bracket was 
attached to the boot lid so conclude that the boot lid and sliding prop were both 
changed some time after production.
2. Tab for wire harness IS in place right under terminals which attach to 
voltage regulator.
3. Tail light lenses are L669, having concentric markings, but I cannot 
attest to their being original
4. Spare tyre bracket is welded to boot floor
5. There is NO tab on the bonnet release

The car appears mostly correct, except for later TR4 or TR4A seats.
BTW, because it was mostly dismantled already, I bought this car for parts.   
There is a Surrey Top with it, which is in pretty good condition.   Look for 
postings by "wilecatoyte" on e-Bay.   
George Haynes


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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Mar 15 17:43:14 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 20:43:14 -0400
Subject: [TR] tap and die question
In-Reply-To: <002d01c886f1$80c518a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <002d01c886f1$80c518a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <002501c886fe$b9e88e20$210110ac@bobspc>

Paul,
Someone already responded about the difference in threads between the two
but I recently learned something I didn't know about Tap & Die. I'm sure
many people already know this but...do not drill, for example, a 3/8" hole
for a 3/8" tap. There are charts out there that tell you the correct size
hole to drill for each tap size you want to use. And it varies by coarse vs
fine thread. Here's a couple of references.
http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm & http://tinyurl.com/2gztrj


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dorpaul
Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 7:09 PM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] tap and die question

What?  While looking at my TR3's master cylinders, I sought to clean out the
fixture threads.  It looks like the 3/8-24 thread is almost identical to 1/8
NPT?  Is this right or have I mixed up my tap and die set again?

Thanks, Paul  60 TR3
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 15 19:15:57 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 18:15:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] Never saw this before
In-Reply-To: <0c5b01c886ed$921dd960$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <20080316011557.LXZJ23786.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Has anyone ever saw one intake manifold on a TR3A (59) run 
> cold enough to collect condensation.

Sure, I've seen the manifold be wet from condensation.  Usually the base of
the carb is wet too.

Both the air expanding as it passes the throttle plate into the manifold
vacuum, and the fuel vaporizing, absorb heat from the manifold.  Under
certain conditions, it can actually lead to a condition called throttle
icing, where ice forms inside the carburetor.  But the original TR3A setup
has the intake manifold bolted to the exhaust manifold, which I believe was
done to warm the intake and prevent icing.  In my case, I removed those
bolts (studs).  The TR6 has a water tube through the manifold, for the same
reason.

> Would a lack of gas cause this.

IMO, no.

> It appears that the 
> car is not supplying enough as my glass fuel filter runs with 
> a small stream (at times).

The fuel filter is sealed, it has no opening to the atmosphere.  That means
that whatever air is inside it, stays inside it (unless of course the outlet
is above the level of the fuel).  So, seeing air inside the filter tells you
nothing about whether the fuel supply is sufficient, or not.

If the supply were insufficient, I'd expect problems with the rear carb
first, since the fuel will fill the front float bowl first.  At least when I
run out of gas, it's the rear carb that quits first.

> Took the top off last week to look at the diaphragm. All looked good. 

That's odd, as the original TR3A carbs have no diaphragms.  Sure you weren't
looking at the TR6 ?
<g>

Randall

From thomas309 at aol.com  Sat Mar 15 19:13:08 2008
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 22:13:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] Side curtains.
Message-ID: <d46.2459fec6.350ddc34@aol.com>

I have know first hand experience with this, but I've heard good things  
about it.
 
_http://www.renovointernational.com/products/p_wpolish.php_ 
(http://www.renovointernational.com/products/p_wpolish.php) 
 
 
In a message dated 3/15/2008 12:05:43 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes:

I  received my side curtain bag this week.  The side curtains fit very  well
into this bag.  An excellent way to protect them during storage  and travel.
The bag itself is made of very heavy vinyl and lined with very  good felt.

Can anyone recommend a plastic cleaner for  cleaning up  the plastic windows 
in
my side curtains.

Best  regards,
Tom



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From thomas309 at aol.com  Sat Mar 15 20:05:41 2008
From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 23:05:41 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 FS
Message-ID: <d07.298c3e50.350de885@aol.com>

Just passing this along, NOT mine, NFI. Tom
 
_http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/607637217.html_ 
(http://newyork.craigslist.org/fct/car/607637217.html) 



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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sat Mar 15 21:08:15 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 00:08:15 -0400
Subject: [TR] rear-wheel-cylin. piston misaligned?
Message-ID: <004a01c8871b$5cfefa60$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I've also discovered that the brake shoe half, (the one that actually makes
physical contact with the piston from the rear wheel cylinder) seems to be not
properly aligned with that piston's top!!!!!!

Since my TR3A is TS71318 the Moss Catalog says the piston top is about a 3/8"
circle rising from one end of the little steel piston. (and the piston is .75"
in dia.)  It SEEMS  that when the wheel cylinder gets properly mounted to the
backing plate, that it doesn't touch the brake shoe half at the correct
location.  Should this be a concern???  I can send someone a pic of my
problem, if that will help...

Thanks, Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Mar 16 04:22:42 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 07:22:42 EDT
Subject: [TR] Side curtains.
Message-ID: <cf0.2d4a7625.350e5d02@aol.com>

Tom,
I cannot attest to how good this stuff is, because I haven't used it  yet, 
but one of my nautical friends told me to go to West Marine as boats have  lots 
of clear plastic, both rigid and flexible and replacement is huge$.   He said 
the stuff they sell is the best cleaner/polisher he has ever seen.   As soon 
as I get around to using it I will let you know.  This guy knows  all things 
nautical very well, however.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 16 07:24:39 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 14:24:39 +0000
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
Message-ID: <BAY110-W447169A6404BD0597075F0E5040@phx.gbl>

I suspect some of you may experience arthritis pain in you hands after working
on your cars.  Last year after working on my ?TR all day my hands would be so
stiff I couldn't close my fist.

This year after working on a car all day the pain in my knuckles was so bad it
would keep me awake at night.

A lady that has had arthritis since she was 21 told me to take chondraitin.
This is a food supplement that usually comes with glucosamine in it.  I take
three capsules a day that have 1500 mg. of chondraitin each/  It helps.

My doctor told me that avoiding nightshade vegetables would help too.  So
tomatoes, potatoes, peppers of all varieties, and eggplant are off of my food
list now.  This has helped too.

Now I can work on the car again without fear of being in pain afterwards.

Best regards,
Tom
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Mar 16 08:12:47 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 10:12:47 -0500
Subject: [TR] Tr4 - TR6 Transmission
Message-ID: <200803161012.47377.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Thanks to Bob, Randall and Tom for their answers.

For some reason I thought that someone made a conversion part.

Now looking at a spare cross member, I can see that all I have to do is drill 
2 new holes behind the existing holes.

Simple enough!

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Mar 16 08:25:05 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 10:25:05 -0500
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W447169A6404BD0597075F0E5040@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W447169A6404BD0597075F0E5040@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <200803161025.06198.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 16 March 2008 09:24 am, tom white wrote:
> I suspect some of you may experience arthritis pain in you hands after
> working on your cars.  Last year after working on my ?TR all day my hands
> would be so stiff I couldn't close my fist.
>
> This year after working on a car all day the pain in my knuckles was so bad
> it would keep me awake at night.
>
> A lady that has had arthritis since she was 21 told me to take chondraitin.
> This is a food supplement that usually comes with glucosamine in it.  I
> take three capsules a day that have 1500 mg. of chondraitin each/  It
> helps.
>
> My doctor told me that avoiding nightshade vegetables would help too.  So
> tomatoes, potatoes, peppers of all varieties, and eggplant are off of my
> food list now.  This has helped too.
>
> Now I can work on the car again without fear of being in pain afterwards.
>
> Best regards,
> Tom
Tom,

I have been taking that supplement for about 10 years now.

In addition to my Triumph habbit, I also did alot of rock collecting which is 
similar to hard rock mining with hammers and chisles.

Anyway I was always sore, joint pain etc. So I started taking the supplement.

About 5 years ago started running to get in to better shape, etc.

Joint pain is a thing of the past for me.

But my diet has not changed. Always plenty of veggies etc. All kinds, colors 
etc.

As far as the nightshade theory, so far that is what it is. May help some but 
everyone is different. And as far as I can tell, most plants do their growing 
at night. THey make sugar during the day and burn that sugar to grow at 
night.

But biology was a very long time ago. 

Bob

From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net  Sun Mar 16 08:53:17 2008
From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 08:53:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Side curtains.
In-Reply-To: <cf0.2d4a7625.350e5d02@aol.com>
References: <cf0.2d4a7625.350e5d02@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8D23BDC6-56DA-43D5-BD15-DCA0C083BCF6@sbcglobal.net>

The aviation industry uses Micromesh to polish out canopies and  
windshields. It will remove any scratches you are likely to encounter.  
I have used Micromesh and it works really well (don't skip any of the  
steps). It is available from Aircraft Spruce (http://www.aircraftspruce.com 
.). All of these type of products are fairly labor intensive and the  
final result is related to the amount of effort you put into the  
process. NFI and all of that.
Mike Denman


On Mar 16, 2008, at 4:22 AM, DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> Tom,
> I cannot attest to how good this stuff is, because I haven't used  
> it  yet,
> but one of my nautical friends told me to go to West Marine as boats  
> have  lots
> of clear plastic, both rigid and flexible and replacement is huge 
> $.   He said
> the stuff they sell is the best cleaner/polisher he has ever seen.    
> As soon
> as I get around to using it I will let you know.  This guy knows   
> all things
> nautical very well, however.
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
> **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL  
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>
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>
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>
>
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>
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Mar 16 10:11:42 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 11:11:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] word of caution on eBay  item 150222210634 ARE wheels
Message-ID: <001801c88788$cfa6b450$54f30818@rolofson>

BlankFor those of you thinking about bidding on item 150222210634 a word of
caution.  The spinners shown don't appear to be the spinners that actually
will fit onto the wheels.  I ask the seller about it and got no reply.  The
narrative is vague and seems to imply that the wheels you're buying and the
spinners will work together and one picture is of the a spinner sitting on a
wheel...what they don't tell you is that its just sitting on the wheel and
won't actually fit the threads properly.  The tip off should be that the
seller says the spinners are new.  I don't know of anyone making new Nokof
spinners which are the correct ones for ARE wheels.

Makes you wonder about the real condition of the wheels.  As always buyer
beware.

Bud Rolofson


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Mar 16 11:04:11 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:04:11 -0000
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
References: <BAY110-W447169A6404BD0597075F0E5040@phx.gbl>
	<200803161025.06198.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <049201c88790$24401900$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Pain started in my thumb joints about 10 years ago. Doc said these are usually the first to show 
signs of 'maturity.' I was 53 then. Over last 5 years, I've been taking Halibut liver oil capsules 
daily and the relief is substantial. Each to their own I suppose - and no change in my diet. Plenty 
of garlic whenever possible - though casual friends don't seem as plentiful as heretofore :)

Jonmac

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Labuz" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 3:25 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Arthritis.


> On Sunday 16 March 2008 09:24 am, tom white wrote:
>> I suspect some of you may experience arthritis pain in you hands after
>> working on your cars.  Last year after working on my ?TR all day my hands
>> would be so stiff I couldn't close my fist.
>>
>> This year after working on a car all day the pain in my knuckles was so bad
>> it would keep me awake at night.
>>
>> A lady that has had arthritis since she was 21 told me to take chondraitin.
>> This is a food supplement that usually comes with glucosamine in it.  I
>> take three capsules a day that have 1500 mg. of chondraitin each/  It
>> helps.
>>
>> My doctor told me that avoiding nightshade vegetables would help too.  So
>> tomatoes, potatoes, peppers of all varieties, and eggplant are off of my
>> food list now.  This has helped too.
>>
>> Now I can work on the car again without fear of being in pain afterwards.
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Tom
> Tom,
>
> I have been taking that supplement for about 10 years now.
>
> In addition to my Triumph habbit, I also did alot of rock collecting which is
> similar to hard rock mining with hammers and chisles.
>
> Anyway I was always sore, joint pain etc. So I started taking the supplement.
>
> About 5 years ago started running to get in to better shape, etc.
>
> Joint pain is a thing of the past for me.
>
> But my diet has not changed. Always plenty of veggies etc. All kinds, colors
> etc.
>
> As far as the nightshade theory, so far that is what it is. May help some but
> everyone is different. And as far as I can tell, most plants do their growing
> at night. THey make sugar during the day and burn that sugar to grow at
> night.
>
> But biology was a very long time ago.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Mar 16 12:38:05 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 12:38:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803161238050.6460@hymn33.u.washington.edu>

Hi George
   Thanks for the data!  Your car has all the same characteristics as mine, right down to the original folding boot prop rod having been replaced with a sliding rod at some point.  If it had started out with the sliding rod, the bottom bracket would have been welded to the inner fender, and there would amost certainly be evidence of that remaining.  In contrast, the lower bracket for the folding system was attached only to the boot lip.
   The bootlid frame for the folding system would have had one bracket for the top end of the rod and another for the rubber block it clipped into for storage, so it does sound like your frame got replaced too (as did mine).

   I'd be interested to know the body-in-white number, but I'm hesitant to advocate the removal of effective undercoating just to get the data.  :)
   That said, here is a photo showing the location of the plate.  I believe this is Geo Hahn's car from just before he bought it, circa 2001:

http://tinyurl.com/2vqnbq

   Thanks again
-Nick Wolf
'61 or '62 TR4 (somewhere between CT 1273 and CT 5520)


> Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 19:53:25 EDT
> From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com
> Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <ccd.2db7598b.350dbb75 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Here's another data point.   Sorry I'm joining the party late but the
> car is 
> stored off-site and I just got a look at it today.
> Comm no: CT 5460 L
> Body tag no: 5562CT (riveted on, near voltage regulator)
> Cannot find a tag in the LR wheel well (covered with thick
> undercoating)   If 
> someone can tell me more specifically where to look, I'll do some
> scraping...
> 
> Configuration:
> 1. This car now has a sliding boot lid prop but it appears to have
> been added 
> later because the prop is black (car is green) and bracket welded to
> edge of 
> lip appears to have been brazed on.   Then I found a loose (green)
> prop rod in 
> the boot.  It is 15.5" long, with a J-hook on one end and a pivot bracket 
> attached to the other end.   The bracket is 3.25" long, L-shaped, and
> has one 
> mounting hole and one mounting slot.   I cannot find where this
> bracket was 
> attached to the boot lid so conclude that the boot lid and sliding
> prop were both 
> changed some time after production.
> 2. Tab for wire harness IS in place right under terminals which attach to 
> voltage regulator.
> 3. Tail light lenses are L669, having concentric markings, but I cannot 
> attest to their being original
> 4. Spare tyre bracket is welded to boot floor
> 5. There is NO tab on the bonnet release
> 
> The car appears mostly correct, except for later TR4 or TR4A seats.
> BTW, because it was mostly dismantled already, I bought this car for
> parts.   
> There is a Surrey Top with it, which is in pretty good condition.
> Look for 
> postings by "wilecatoyte" on e-Bay.   
> George Haynes

From mathews at uga.edu  Sun Mar 16 12:49:43 2008
From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 15:49:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803161238050.6460@hymn33.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803161238050.6460@hymn33.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <20080316204907.523EC18764E@autox.team.net>

That is driver side, correct?

Thanks

Doug

At 03:38 PM 3/16/2008, you wrote:
>That said, here is a photo showing the location of the plate.  I 
>believe this is Geo Hahn's car from just before he bought it, circa 2001:

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Mar 16 13:00:46 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 13:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] word of caution on eBay  item 150222210634 ARE wheels
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803161300460.6460@hymn33.u.washington.edu>

Hi Bud
   A bigger issue is that those are not ARE wheels.  The "AE" on the back means they were made by American Eagle.  Check the questions at the bottom of the auction and you'll see that multiple people have already corrected the seller (who should know better... this guy outbid me several times on both Silverstones and Nokofs years ago).
   Most American Eagle wheels in this style have the VW Bug bolt pattern, but they obviously made a few with the Triumph/MG/Datsun pattern.  The shape of the spokes is quite different.  For comparison, here are some ARE Silverstones in aluminum and magnesium:

http://server3.uploadit.org/files/1962tr4-P6120003.JPG
http://server3.uploadit.org/files/1962tr4-mg_late_and_early.jpg

   The American Eagles are perfectly good wheels, but they're not Silverstones.  I hope the buyer is aware.
-Nick


> From: "levilevi" <levilevi at comcast.net>
> Subject: [TR] word of caution on eBay  item 150222210634 ARE wheels
>
> For those of you thinking about bidding on item 150222210634 a word of
> caution.  The spinners shown don't appear to be the spinners that actually
> will fit onto the wheels.  I ask the seller about it and got no reply.  The
> narrative is vague and seems to imply that the wheels you're buying and the
> spinners will work together and one picture is of the a spinner
> sitting on a
> wheel...what they don't tell you is that its just sitting on the wheel and
> won't actually fit the threads properly.  The tip off should be that the
> seller says the spinners are new.  I don't know of anyone making new Nokof
> spinners which are the correct ones for ARE wheels.
> 
> Makes you wonder about the real condition of the wheels.  As always buyer
> beware.
> 
> Bud Rolofson
> 
> 
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Mar 16 13:12:03 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:12:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] 1962 Trunk Lid Needed in Minnesota-TRIUMPH HERALD
Message-ID: <cfa.2cf84b9b.350ed913@cs.com>

List(s)

There is a guy in Minnesota that was transporting a Herald. It was his 
mother's car and he is trying to restore it.  The trunk lid was lost in transport.

I dont know this guy personally, but I agreed to help.

If someone can help, please let me know...privately.  I suspect this guy has 
no TR network at all, like this list of enthusiasts.

Thanks,

Joe A     </HTML>

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Mar 16 13:34:18 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 13:34:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803161334180.22842@hymn11.u.washington.edu>

Yup, driver's side, just above and behind the axle.
-Nick

On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 15:49:43 -0400 mathews at uga.edu wrote:
> That is driver side, correct?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Doug
> 
> At 03:38 PM 3/16/2008, you wrote:
> >That said, here is a photo showing the location of the plate.  I 
> >believe this is Geo Hahn's car from just before he bought it, circa 2001:

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Mar 16 13:40:57 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:40:57 EDT
Subject: [TR] "Kidney Bean" Aluminum Wheels - Info or wheel(s) needed
Message-ID: <bbd.2d687317.350edfd9@cs.com>

I have three good kidney bean style wheels from the 70s, I believe.
These three are 6" wide 15" diameter with four bolt Triumph bolt circle.

I also have two more that are really wide...at least 7", if not wider.

I dont have a use for the wide ones, but would like to have one or two more 
of the 6" wide ones to make a complete set.

Anyone have any?...or a source? I can provide a digital picture.

Thanks!

Joe A
      </HTML>

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Sun Mar 16 13:41:47 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 13:41:47 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
In-Reply-To: <20080316204907.523EC18764E@autox.team.net>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803161238050.6460@hymn33.u.washington.edu>
	<20080316204907.523EC18764E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <600CEA8B75BB48B08CFA82A3E1716C64@GeoPC>

Yes, driver's side.

When Nick did the original post on this he offered a photo of the plate from 
a pic he 'saved from an old eBay auction'.

I looked at the photo but did not realize it was actually my car pictured. 
I even went out to the garage to peek at the wheel well to confirm the plate 
was in place on mine.  Well of course it was (still there).

Someday I will clean it enough to reveal the number but didn't do it now as 
it is pretty far from the range of cars being discussed.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Doug Mathews" <mathews at uga.edu>
To: <nwolf at u.washington.edu>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 12:49 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate


> That is driver side, correct?
>
> Thanks
>
> Doug
>
> At 03:38 PM 3/16/2008, you wrote:
>>That said, here is a photo showing the location of the plate.  I
>>believe this is Geo Hahn's car from just before he bought it, circa 2001:

From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Mar 16 13:47:49 2008
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:47:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ok seen everything now
Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB4A34@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>

   Just  flipped through the channels and topgear was on :-). A TR Herald
   was turned into an amphibicar :-P.
   Probably  an  old  repeat but still a giggle. Know the music but can't
   place it, it sounds like something the Battle of Britian.
   James is driving the Herald, and he has engine failure......
   A toyota pickup with a 600lb out board motor on it :-)
   Hammond is driving a VW camper......turned into land/sea yacht
   Funny in the end...still 20minutes to go.
   Happy sunday.....
   David Templeton
   '59tr3a
   '76spitsix.

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sun Mar 16 14:44:51 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 17:44:51 EDT
Subject: [TR] seal-spare tire well lid tr3
Message-ID: <bf0.20f35c7e.350eeed3@aol.com>

hello, i need to put on the rubber seal for the spare tire lid on my tr3-a. 
the rubber has a square section that goes inside on the body of the car. there 
is a lip on the rubber, the question is which side on the body does the lip 
face, the outer part of the frame or the inner part of the frame. i tried it on 
the outside part of the frame and i could not lock up the spare tire cover. 
larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a



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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Mar 16 14:53:21 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 17:53:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
In-Reply-To: <049201c88790$24401900$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <47DD5E91.18341.963DE@localhost>

On 16 Mar 2008 at 18:04, John Macartney wrote:

> Plenty of garlic whenever possible - though casual friends
> don't seem as plentiful as heretofore :)

You probably don't have as much touble with vampires either.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Mar 16 15:46:26 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:46:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ok seen everything now
In-Reply-To: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB4A34@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>
References: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB4A34@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>
Message-ID: <000901c887b7$95742180$210110ac@bobspc>

Dave,
That was Part 2 of their amphibian car adventure. The first part was a year
or so ago when they each had a budget to make their amphibian car, drive it
to the launch ramp, take it out on the river, around a buoy and backup the
ramp. It was hilarious.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David Templeton
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 4:48 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Ok seen everything now

   Just  flipped through the channels and topgear was on :-). A TR Herald
   was turned into an amphibicar :-P.
   Probably  an  old  repeat but still a giggle. Know the music but can't
   place it, it sounds like something the Battle of Britian.
   James is driving the Herald, and he has engine failure......
   A toyota pickup with a 600lb out board motor on it :-)
   Hammond is driving a VW camper......turned into land/sea yacht
   Funny in the end...still 20minutes to go.
   Happy sunday.....
   David Templeton
   '59tr3a
   '76spitsix.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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10:34 AM

From davidt at opentext.com  Sun Mar 16 16:08:03 2008
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 19:08:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] Ok seen everything now
Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E04EB4A35@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>

   Bob
   Saw  the  end  and  yeap  the Herald triumphed :-). LoL over that one.
   Except for the slipped clutch it faired the best.
   One more for the TR badge :-)
   David
   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
   To: David Templeton; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
   Sent: Sun Mar 16 18:46:26 2008
   Subject: RE: [TR] Ok seen everything now
   Dave,
   That was Part 2 of their amphibian car adventure. The first part was a
   year
   or  so  ago  when  they each had a budget to make their amphibian car,
   drive it
   to the launch ramp, take it out on the river, around a buoy and backup
   the
   ramp. It was hilarious.
   Bob Danielson
   1975 TR6 CF38503U
   Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
   http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
   -----Original Message-----
   From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
   [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net]
   On
   Behalf Of David Templeton
   Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 4:48 PM
   To: triumphs at autox.team.net
   Subject: [TR] Ok seen everything now
       Just   flipped  through  the channels and topgear was on :-). A TR
   Herald
      was turned into an amphibicar :-P.
       Probably   an   old  repeat but still a giggle. Know the music but
   can't
      place it, it sounds like something the Battle of Britian.
      James is driving the Herald, and he has engine failure......
      A toyota pickup with a 600lb out board motor on it :-)
      Hammond is driving a VW camper......turned into land/sea yacht
      Funny in the end...still 20minutes to go.
      Happy sunday.....
      David Templeton
      '59tr3a
      '76spitsix.
   _______________________________________________
   Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
   This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
   http://www.vtr.org
   Triumphs at autox.team.net
   http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
   You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
   http://www.team.net/archive
   No virus found in this incoming message.
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   10:34 AM

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Mar 16 16:17:15 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 19:17:15 EDT
Subject: [TR] tap and die question
Message-ID: <bc0.2aa296ab.350f047b@aol.com>

I am a simple man.  I bought a set of taps and dies with the drill  bits 
included and only use those bits for that purpose.  Minimizes  thinkin'.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sun Mar 16 16:17:31 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 19:17:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] Ok seen everything now
Message-ID: <c5e.2e8dd5bd.350f048b@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/16/2008 6:08:35 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
davidt at opentext.com writes:

Bob
Saw  the  end  and  yeap   the Herald triumphed :-). LoL over that one.
Except for the  slipped clutch it faired the best.
One more for the TR badge  :-)
David






apparently you didn't see the episode where they tried to cross the  channel
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc



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From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Mar 16 16:23:40 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 19:23:40 -0400
Subject: [TR] Bell exhaust system
Message-ID: <47DDABFC.50907@snet.net>

   I just installed a new Bell SS stock type exhaust system.  The fit is 
superb compared to the falcon system I had on it.   I was just wondering 
about the eyelet hangars welded to the front intermediate pipes.  The 
TRF catalog shows an L-shaped bracket that would attach theses eyelets 
to something, but I'm not sure what.  They stick up very near the angle 
drive on the OD transmission.  I just left them and used the other type 
hangar instead.  Anyone know where that bracket would attach?   Thanks   
John Mitchell  76 TR6

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sun Mar 16 16:35:21 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:35:21 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] Bell exhaust system
Message-ID: <8882936.1222191205710521150.JavaMail.root@vms061.mailsrvcs.net>

John,

No OD on my TR6, but the Bell stock stainless system has the best fit and I have had no issues with it.

Craig


From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
Date: 2008/03/16 Sun PM 06:23:40 CDT
To: 6 Pack <6pack at Autox.Team.Net>, 
	"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Bell exhaust system

   I just installed a new Bell SS stock type exhaust system.  The fit is 
superb compared to the falcon system I had on it.   I was just wondering 
about the eyelet hangars welded to the front intermediate pipes.  The 
TRF catalog shows an L-shaped bracket that would attach theses eyelets 
to something, but I'm not sure what.  They stick up very near the angle 
drive on the OD transmission.  I just left them and used the other type 
hangar instead.  Anyone know where that bracket would attach?   Thanks   
John Mitchell  76 TR6
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From tom628 at verizon.net  Sun Mar 16 18:05:46 2008
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 21:05:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anti run-on valve
Message-ID: <002301c887cb$08df6c70$2f01a8c0@Toms>

Is there a way to bench test the anti run-on valve; '76 TR6?

Thanks,
Tom

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Mar 16 18:42:10 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 21:42:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Anti run-on valve
Message-ID: <cfa.2cfc68b0.350f2672@cs.com>

Sure.  Apply 12 volts to the two terminals and the plunger should move.  

The bottom off the valve (opposite the terminals) is open to the bottom of 
the plunger.  You can push it in with your finger to see it move.  position the 
valve where you can see it and apply 12 volts and you should see it should 
pull in.

Dave   

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Sun Mar 16 20:04:17 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 23:04:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] help with fit of small mouth apron tr2-3
Message-ID: <c3c.2e5c66d6.350f39b1@aol.com>

hello
IM having a problem with the fit of my small mouth apron.
It seams to be rotated about the center of the car!
If you look at this picture you will see the driver side of the apron is 
higher than the end of the fender. Whereas the passenger side is lower than the 
end of the fender.
see picture at 
_http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj57/fgfo1/front%20apron/?albumview=slides
how_ 
(http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj57/fgfo1/front%20apron/?albumview=slideshow)  
 
Is the apron supposed to be longer/shorter than the fenders?
As the bonnet fits good on the passenger side and is way too tight on the 
driver side, IM assuming the passenger side is correct?
with the car on jack stands i measured from a fixed suspension point on both 
sides to be sure the car was parallel to the ground. it was. i then checked 
the dimension from the bottom of the fenders to the ground. they are both the 
same within less than 1/8"
 
The apron does not have the same dimensions from the ground when comparing 
sides. So IM very sure its the apron thetas on wrong.
 
The apron is solidly bolted to the tie member and that in turn slots solidly 
into its housing on the inner fender. I don't see any obvious trouble there.
 
any ideas on how to fix it?
 
One last thing. My car should be a 3A widemouth, but IM converting to a small 
mouth. I don't have a good wide mouth to try on as a comparison! bummer.
 
thanks
Frank Fisher
TS 41366 L




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From tom628 at verizon.net  Sun Mar 16 20:51:20 2008
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 23:51:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] Anti run-on valve
References: <cfa.2cfc68b0.350f2672@cs.com>
Message-ID: <00a001c887e2$29e792a0$2f01a8c0@Toms>

Thanks for the clear explanation Dave. I wasn't sure what to look for.

Tom




----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 9:42 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Anti run-on valve


> Sure.  Apply 12 volts to the two terminals and the plunger should move.
>
> The bottom off the valve (opposite the terminals) is open to the bottom of
> the plunger.  You can push it in with your finger to see it move. 
> position the
> valve where you can see it and apply 12 volts and you should see it should
> pull in.
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Mar 16 21:17:29 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 21:17:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803162117290.12340@hymn14.u.washington.edu>

Correction: Driver's side for LHD, offside for RHD.  The body-in-white plate did not change sides with the steering wheel, unlike some later ID plates.
-Nick

On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 15:49:43 -0400 mathews at uga.edu wrote:
> That is driver side, correct?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Doug
> 
> At 03:38 PM 3/16/2008, you wrote:
> >That said, here is a photo showing the location of the plate.  I 
> >believe this is Geo Hahn's car from just before he bought it, circa 2001:

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Sun Mar 16 21:48:47 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 21:48:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803162148470.12340@hymn14.u.washington.edu>

Thank you, Phil!
   I think yours is the most valuable data point I've gotten so far.  If your eared bonnet release mechanism is original (and if mine is too), it means my car is later than yours, which means... my car is a 1962!  Hooray!  The mystery car has a birthday (almost).
   Meanwhile, the pattern in the body-in-white numbers is getting interesting:

Mystery TR4	ZS 10966

CT 1798 L	ZS 17010
CT 2846 L	ZS 12911
CT 5521 LO	ZS 16435
CT 15093 L	ZS 25136
CT 22326 L	ZS 44767
CT 25830 L	ZS 35743
CT 38746 L	ZS 48829

   If you plot those numbers, you get a very straight line with a couple of outliers.  Curiouser and curiouser...
-Nick Wolf
'62 TR4


On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 03:59:56 +0000 pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> > 4. Does your bonnet release mechanism have an ear on the right side
> that sticks 
> > up about an inch above everything else and then folds over toward
> the right side 
> > of the car?
> 
> Yes.

From cfisher at borgwarner.com  Mon Mar 17 06:01:48 2008
From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 09:01:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] Run out conclusion. -Related question
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W5446BEABA083F71A1C2411E50A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY110-W5446BEABA083F71A1C2411E50A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCDF438DC@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net>

I checked my hubs because of the shimmy problem and found the right
front to have over .055" runout. My question is how best to true it.

I asked a machinist at work about chucking on the inside of the hub bore
where the inside bearing presses in. He didn't think it would work and
suggested I mount it on the car and use a die grinder to even it out.

If I go to an automotive machine shop, will they know how to tackle
this?

Can someone tell me how to tell them to do it?

Should I just try the die grinder with the hub on the car?

We have a long warm weekend coming up, so I'm anxious to figure this
out.

Thanks,
Curt

"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" Steve McQueen
from Le Mans


"I have resolved the shimmy in my front end.  Along the way I corrected
several
problems.  The first was run out in my hubs"

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Mar 17 06:51:42 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 13:51:42 +0000
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
Message-ID: <031720081351.3132.47DE776E00097EA100000C3C22155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

It was a lot simpler with the Lotus.  There was a plate on the rear edge of the driver door which stated that the car was made in November of 1969.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu
> Thank you, Phil!
>    I think yours is the most valuable data point I've gotten so far.  If your 
> eared bonnet release mechanism is original (and if mine is too), it means my car 
> is later than yours, which means... my car is a 1962!  Hooray!  The mystery car 
> has a birthday (almost).
>    Meanwhile, the pattern in the body-in-white numbers is getting interesting:
> 
> Mystery TR4	ZS 10966
> 
> CT 1798 L	ZS 17010
> CT 2846 L	ZS 12911
> CT 5521 LO	ZS 16435
> CT 15093 L	ZS 25136
> CT 22326 L	ZS 44767
> CT 25830 L	ZS 35743
> CT 38746 L	ZS 48829
> 
>    If you plot those numbers, you get a very straight line with a couple of 
> outliers.  Curiouser and curiouser...
> -Nick Wolf
> '62 TR4
> 
> 
> On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 03:59:56 +0000 pethier at comcast.net wrote:
> > > 4. Does your bonnet release mechanism have an ear on the right side
> > that sticks 
> > > up about an inch above everything else and then folds over toward
> > the right side 
> > > of the car?
> > 
> > Yes.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 17 07:34:13 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 14:34:13 +0000
Subject: [TR] Run out conclusion. -Related question
In-Reply-To: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCDF438DC@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net>
References: <BAY110-W5446BEABA083F71A1C2411E50A0@phx.gbl>
	<1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCDF438DC@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W232AD5934FE998FFC7C14FE5050@phx.gbl>

Hi Curt,

Do not use a die grinder to try and true your hubs.  There is no way you can
set a tolerance with a freehand grinder.  Any good auto fabrication machine
shop will be able to do it for you on a lathe.  You may have to look around a
little to find a good fabrication shop.  The one I used is in Salinas, Ca. and
it is a huge shop.  They work on a lot of huge farm equipment and can
fabricate almost anything.  I got my hubs down to 0.003 run out from 0.026.

Best regards,
Tom

> Subject: RE: [TR] Run out conclusion. -Related question
> Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 09:01:48 -0400
> From: cfisher at borgwarner.com
> To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
>
> I checked my hubs because of the shimmy problem and found the right
> front to have over .055" runout. My question is how best to true it.
>
> I asked a machinist at work about chucking on the inside of the hub bore
> where the inside bearing presses in. He didn't think it would work and
> suggested I mount it on the car and use a die grinder to even it out.
>
> If I go to an automotive machine shop, will they know how to tackle
> this?
>
> Can someone tell me how to tell them to do it?
>
> Should I just try the die grinder with the hub on the car?
>
> We have a long warm weekend coming up, so I'm anxious to figure this
> out.
>
> Thanks,
> Curt
>
> "Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" Steve McQueen
> from Le Mans
>
>
> "I have resolved the shimmy in my front end.  Along the way I corrected
> several
> problems.  The first was run out in my hubs"
>

_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008

From zoboherald at aol.com  Mon Mar 17 08:07:00 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 11:07:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803162117290.12340@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803162117290.12340@hymn14.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <8CA5657AFB313FF-15F0-358@Webmail-mg04.sim.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu

Correction: Driver's side for LHD, offside for RHD.  The body-in-white 
plate did
not change sides with the steering wheel, unlike some later ID plates.

==AM==
Nick, please forgive a slight correction to your correction. The "off 
side" of the car does not change relative to where the steering wheel 
is. The off side is always the RH side of the car, and the "near side" 
is the LH side (nearest the kerb in the UK, where they drive on the LH 
side of the road).

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Mar 17 08:16:14 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 08:16:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD640EE@kb1.mossmotors.com>

>Moss lists the two larger bearings as part #525-030 and the smaller
bearing
as 525-150 at what I think are quite reasonable prices. Maybe Peter
Arakelian can tell you who the current manufacturer is.

The 525-030 we currently have are supplied by Moss Europe and are not
marked as to manufacturer.  They are with circlip attached.
The 525-150 are currently supplied by FAG bearing.

Peter Arakelian
Purchasing Agent
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(805) 679-7214
(805) 692-2510 Fax
arakelianp at mossmotors.com

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Mon Mar 17 08:21:50 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 11:21:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings
References: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD640EE@kb1.mossmotors.com>
Message-ID: <03ac01c88842$a03b0260$0200a8c0@Desktop>

Where are these parts manufactured?


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
To: <mmarr at notwires.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 11:16 AM
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings


> >Moss lists the two larger bearings as part #525-030 and the smaller
> bearing
> as 525-150 at what I think are quite reasonable prices. Maybe Peter
> Arakelian can tell you who the current manufacturer is.
> 
> The 525-030 we currently have are supplied by Moss Europe and are not
> marked as to manufacturer.  They are with circlip attached.
> The 525-150 are currently supplied by FAG bearing.
> 
> Peter Arakelian
> Purchasing Agent
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> (805) 679-7214
> (805) 692-2510 Fax
> arakelianp at mossmotors.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From arakelianp at mossmotors.com  Mon Mar 17 08:27:40 2008
From: arakelianp at mossmotors.com (Arakelian, Peter)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 08:27:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings
In-Reply-To: <03ac01c88842$a03b0260$0200a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <42329DF34840DB4E9785C8DF24C8A97F0CD640EF@kb1.mossmotors.com>

525-030 are listed as UK manufacture
525-150 made by FAG an long time supplier of bearings out of Germany.


Peter Arakelian
Purchasing Agent
Moss Motors, Ltd.
(805) 679-7214
(805) 692-2510 Fax
arakelianp at mossmotors.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Craig [mailto:wensley_Tr at comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 8:22 AM
To: Arakelian, Peter; mmarr at notwires.com
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR transmission bearings

Where are these parts manufactured?


----- Original Message -----
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
To: <mmarr at notwires.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 11:16 AM
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings


> >Moss lists the two larger bearings as part #525-030 and the smaller
> bearing
> as 525-150 at what I think are quite reasonable prices. Maybe Peter
> Arakelian can tell you who the current manufacturer is.
>
> The 525-030 we currently have are supplied by Moss Europe and are not
> marked as to manufacturer.  They are with circlip attached.
> The 525-150 are currently supplied by FAG bearing.
>
> Peter Arakelian
> Purchasing Agent
> Moss Motors, Ltd.
> (805) 679-7214
> (805) 692-2510 Fax
> arakelianp at mossmotors.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Mar 17 09:00:37 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 09:00:37 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 parts needed for my racecar
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803170900x65056e0dj45032261fc2c6aa0@mail.gmail.com>

I need a lever that goes on the gas pedal shaft to operate the linkage and I
need door latches [left].  Neither is available from the ususual 3.

Thanks,

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Mar 17 09:09:24 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 16:09:24 +0000
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
Message-ID: <031720081609.14365.47DE97B4000CCEA90000381D22165514069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: zoboherald at aol.com
> The "off 
> side" of the car does not change relative to where the steering wheel 
> is. The off side is always the RH side of the car, and the "near side" 
> is the LH side (nearest the kerb in the UK, where they drive on the LH 
> side of the road).
> 
> --Andy  Mace
Which is why I never use that terminology.  Car right.  Car left.  In the normal forward direction of travel.  Works for everybody, whether you have kerbs or curbs.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Mar 17 09:23:06 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 09:23:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
References: <BAY110-W447169A6404BD0597075F0E5040@phx.gbl>
	<200803161025.06198.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <00c201c8884b$2f2f68a0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

My problem is some pain, but mainly cramping up in the hands to point where I
can't pick up the wrench.
This condition happens when I have been wrenching or sanding continuously for
several days in a row.
Has any one experience this condition?
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Labuz
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 8:25 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Arthritis.


  On Sunday 16 March 2008 09:24 am, tom white wrote:
  > I suspect some of you may experience arthritis pain in you hands after
  > working on your cars.  Last year after working on my ?TR all day my hands
  > would be so stiff I couldn't close my fist.
  >
  > This year after working on a car all day the pain in my knuckles was so
bad
  > it would keep me awake at night.
  >
  > A lady that has had arthritis since she was 21 told me to take
chondraitin.
  > This is a food supplement that usually comes with glucosamine in it.  I
  > take three capsules a day that have 1500 mg. of chondraitin each/  It
  > helps.
  >
  > My doctor told me that avoiding nightshade vegetables would help too.  So
  > tomatoes, potatoes, peppers of all varieties, and eggplant are off of my
  > food list now.  This has helped too.
  >
  > Now I can work on the car again without fear of being in pain afterwards.
  >
  > Best regards,
  > Tom
  Tom,

  I have been taking that supplement for about 10 years now.

  In addition to my Triumph habbit, I also did alot of rock collecting which
is
  similar to hard rock mining with hammers and chisles.

  Anyway I was always sore, joint pain etc. So I started taking the
supplement.

  About 5 years ago started running to get in to better shape, etc.

  Joint pain is a thing of the past for me.

  But my diet has not changed. Always plenty of veggies etc. All kinds, colors
  etc.

  As far as the nightshade theory, so far that is what it is. May help some
but
  everyone is different. And as far as I can tell, most plants do their
growing
  at night. THey make sugar during the day and burn that sugar to grow at
  night.

  But biology was a very long time ago.

  Bob
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
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  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

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From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Mar 17 09:31:06 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 09:31:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] Side curtains.
References: <cf0.2d4a7625.350e5d02@aol.com>
	<8D23BDC6-56DA-43D5-BD15-DCA0C083BCF6@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00cc01c8884c$4d19fd20$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

I too have used the micro-mesh system. One of the best products to use for
cleaning & polishing plastics. If you have deep scratches, the procedure they
recommend will remove those deep scratches. The sanding papers in the kit go
all the way up to 10,000 grit before you start using the compounds.
My TR3 steel hardtop rear window had a scratch the thickness of a dime and I
was able to remove it . However it can be labor intensive depending how badly
the scratches are in the plastic.
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Mike Denman
  To: DLylis at aol.com
  Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 8:53 AM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Side curtains.


  The aviation industry uses Micromesh to polish out canopies and
  windshields. It will remove any scratches you are likely to encounter.
  I have used Micromesh and it works really well (don't skip any of the
  steps). It is available from Aircraft Spruce (http://www.aircraftspruce.com
  .). All of these type of products are fairly labor intensive and the
  final result is related to the amount of effort you put into the
  process. NFI and all of that.
  Mike Denman


  On Mar 16, 2008, at 4:22 AM, DLylis at aol.com wrote:

  > Tom,
  > I cannot attest to how good this stuff is, because I haven't used
  > it  yet,
  > but one of my nautical friends told me to go to West Marine as boats
  > have  lots
  > of clear plastic, both rigid and flexible and replacement is huge
  > $.   He said
  > the stuff they sell is the best cleaner/polisher he has ever seen.
  > As soon
  > as I get around to using it I will let you know.  This guy knows
  > all things
  > nautical very well, however.
  >
  > David  Lylis
  > 69 TR6 CC26160L
  > 60 TR3A TS74461LO
  >
  >
  >
  > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL
  > Money &
  > Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
  > _______________________________________________
  >
  > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
  >
  > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  > http://www.vtr.org
  >
  >
  > Triumphs at autox.team.net
  > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
  >
  > You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net
  >
  > http://www.team.net/archive
  _______________________________________________

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  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
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From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Mar 17 09:38:01 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 09:38:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] seal-spare tire well lid tr3
References: <bf0.20f35c7e.350eeed3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <010001c8884d$446c59b0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

I just did my TR3 spare tire compartment seal, and I had to re-adjust the lock
taps in spare tire compartment to allow the locking mechanism to work. You
will have to bend them slightly outwards (towards the rear) to make them lock
properly because of the new seal.
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: L1J1S at aol.com
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 2:44 PM
  Subject: [TR] seal-spare tire well lid tr3


  hello, i need to put on the rubber seal for the spare tire lid on my tr3-a.
  the rubber has a square section that goes inside on the body of the car.
there
  is a lip on the rubber, the question is which side on the body does the lip
  face, the outer part of the frame or the inner part of the frame. i tried it
on
  the outside part of the frame and i could not lock up the spare tire cover.
  larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a



  **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money &
  Finance.      (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)
  _______________________________________________

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  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


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From pethier at comcast.net  Mon Mar 17 10:25:07 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:25:07 +0000
Subject: [TR] Run out conclusion. -Related question
Message-ID: <031720081725.105.47DEA973000152280000006922165514069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: <cfisher at borgwarner.com>
> I checked my hubs because of the shimmy problem and found the right
> front to have over .055" runout. My question is how best to true it.
> 
> I asked a machinist at work about chucking on the inside of the hub bore
> where the inside bearing presses in. He didn't think it would work 

I believe he is correct.  You need more support and a longer axis for location.

If I had a large lathe and lots of time, I'd machine a fixture that would locate/hold the hub by the counterbores for both inner and outer bearings.  A couple of light facing cuts and you are done.

If I had only a small lathe and a milling machine, I'd make on the lathe a cylinder matching the inner bearing counterbore and bolt it to the mill table.  Walk it with an indicator.  Plunk on the hub and hold it down with clamps. Walk the outer bearing counterbore to make sure all was straight, then make very light end-mill cuts on the hub face.

If you could mount a spare axle stub vertically on a surface grinder (lock the table travel), you might be able to grind the face.  Don't try this without knowing what you are doing.  Since you are by-definition going to grind a total of .055" from the high spot it is imperative that you take a thousandth off the high spot first.  Accidently making your first touch anywhere else could make for entirely too much excitement in the shop!

There may be some sort of dedicated method to do this on brake machine.  There are lots of cars that have brake drums with integral bearing counterbores.  How do automotive machinists locate them?

>and
> suggested I mount it on the car and use a die grinder to even it out.

Either he was joking or that was the most astonishingly-bad advice I can imagine coming from a machinist.

> If I go to an automotive machine shop, will they know how to tackle
> this?

Maybe.

> Can someone tell me how to tell them to do it?

You could tell them of my suggestions, but I have to believe that if they don't have a system in place for this, following my methods could be expensive at shop rates.

Outfits that do brake disks on the car (I have never seen this done, but I am told that it sometimes is done) may be able to adapt their setup to face your hub.

> Should I just try the die grinder with the hub on the car?

No.  Unless the spindle is immobilized and you have a precision method of keeping the grinder on a straight path in a plane perpendicular to the axle axis, you have little hope of success.  Rotating the hub 180 degrees from the indicator to a spot where you could grind a little and then back to check might take you ten years.  It would take me a hundred years.

--
Phil Ethier   West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com  Mon Mar 17 11:03:02 2008
From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 13:03:02 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
Message-ID: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>

I'm trying to put in a 'magic carpet set' from TRF and the hardware kit
came with female and male snaps to put on the underside of the carpets
to hold things down.  Right now, I'm trying to use my existing male
snaps previously installed on my floors - which is a real pain because
you're trying to match things up blind from the top side of the carpet.
I guess I could alternatively somehow mount the new male and female
snaps as a set and drill through the carpet and snap sets to position
and create new rivet holes in the floors.

No apparent option seems easy to me and I'm struggling with this like
the real amateur that I am.  Does anyone on the List have a 'trick of
the trade' to easily locate and install undercarpet snaps?

Thanks so much in advance,

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 17 11:20:17 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 11:20:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] Run out conclusion. -Related question
In-Reply-To: <031720081725.105.47DEA973000152280000006922165514069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <031720081725.105.47DEA973000152280000006922165514069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4cb701c8885b$8d987700$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> > Should I just try the die grinder with the hub on the car?
> 
> No.  Unless the spindle is immobilized and you have a 
> precision method of keeping the grinder on a straight path in 
> a plane perpendicular to the axle axis, you have little hope 
> of success.  Rotating the hub 180 degrees from the indicator 
> to a spot where you could grind a little and then back to 
> check might take you ten years.  It would take me a hundred years.

I think you guys are making this harder than necessary.  Remove the studs &
the seal, then mount the hub on the spindle and pull the bearings up to no
clearance.  Spin the hub and mark with chalk to find the high spot.
Carefully file away the chalk using a machinist's (flat) file, then repeat
as necessary.

Yes, it will take some time, but no worse than having to machine mandrels
and whatnot, plus can be even more accurate (tho for best accuracy, a dial
indicator would work better than chalk).

To do it on a lathe, put in the inner races then mount the hub between
centers.  Even though the taper of the centers won't match the taper of the
races, it should locate the hub very well.

But no die grinder in either case !

Randall

From trglory at comcast.net  Mon Mar 17 12:20:13 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:20:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
In-Reply-To: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>
References: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>
Message-ID: <002f01c88863$ee05da80$ca118f80$@net>

Hi Brian;

The job isn't as hard as you think. Align your carpet, feel the male part
with your fingers and center the "ring" over it pressing it into the rug. If
it isn't centered, just take it out and try again. Once you get it where you
want it, join the two pieces of the snap together. Go to
http://www.cptc.org/tech_tips/CarpetSnaps/installing_rug_snaps_by_joe_laur.h
tm to see how it's done.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Lanoway, Brian
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 2:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?

I'm trying to put in a 'magic carpet set' from TRF and the hardware kit
came with female and male snaps to put on the underside of the carpets
to hold things down.  Right now, I'm trying to use my existing male
snaps previously installed on my floors - which is a real pain because
you're trying to match things up blind from the top side of the carpet.
I guess I could alternatively somehow mount the new male and female
snaps as a set and drill through the carpet and snap sets to position
and create new rivet holes in the floors.

No apparent option seems easy to me and I'm struggling with this like
the real amateur that I am.  Does anyone on the List have a 'trick of
the trade' to easily locate and install undercarpet snaps?

Thanks so much in advance,

Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
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10:34 AM

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Mon Mar 17 11:54:28 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 11:54:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
In-Reply-To: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>
References: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>
Message-ID: <E6BF92462F674EA3B7D4E1BB1913C5D9@GeoPC>

I have found that I can usually just put the carpet in the desired position 
then press very hard against the male snap... this will leave an impression 
on the underside of the carpet that I use to locate the snap to be 
installed.  If the impression is too faint a bit of chalk or such on the 
male snap may leave a better mark.

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Lanoway, Brian" <Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 11:03 AM
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?


> I'm trying to put in a 'magic carpet set' from TRF and the hardware kit
> came with female and male snaps to put on the underside of the carpets
> to hold things down.  Right now, I'm trying to use my existing male
> snaps previously installed on my floors - which is a real pain because
> you're trying to match things up blind from the top side of the carpet... 

From wsteinman at pogolaw.com  Mon Mar 17 12:37:21 2008
From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:37:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
In-Reply-To: <E6BF92462F674EA3B7D4E1BB1913C5D9@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <6C74404059EB134FBA542DA75DD8488F016A8BFA@WDC-EXCH-VS01.US.PGFM.NET>

My problem with these little items has always been with a carpet using
thick felt padding underneath.  I've taken to cutting a hole in the
felt, and then just putting the snaps through the carpet itself.  If
anyone else has insight into a better way to do this, I'd love to hear
it!  Thanks!


********************


Bill S.
2005 Lotus Elise
1968 Triumph TR-250
1968 MGC Tourer
1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III
1965 Sunbeam Tiger
1959 Austin Healey 3000
www.TR-250.com

Looking for a nice TR6!

Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows...





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wsteinman=pogolaw.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wsteinman=pogolaw.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Geo & Kathleen Hahn
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 2:54 PM
To: Lanoway, Brian; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to
this?


I have found that I can usually just put the carpet in the desired
position
then press very hard against the male snap... this will leave an
impression
on the underside of the carpet that I use to locate the snap to be
installed.  If the impression is too faint a bit of chalk or such on the

male snap may leave a better mark.

Geo


----- Original Message -----
From: "Lanoway, Brian" <Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 11:03 AM
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?


> I'm trying to put in a 'magic carpet set' from TRF and the hardware
> kit came with female and male snaps to put on the underside of the
> carpets to hold things down.  Right now, I'm trying to use my existing

> male snaps previously installed on my floors - which is a real pain
> because you're trying to match things up blind from the top side of
> the carpet...
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as wsteinman at pogolaw.com

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From cfisher at borgwarner.com  Mon Mar 17 12:48:55 2008
From: cfisher at borgwarner.com (cfisher at borgwarner.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:48:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] Run out conclusion. -Related question
In-Reply-To: <4cb701c8885b$8d987700$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <031720081725.105.47DEA973000152280000006922165514069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<4cb701c8885b$8d987700$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <1415F96E1760EC4F9881942370DF3BCDF439D0@enteasvem001.enterprise.borgwarner.net>

I'll stop at a machine shop on the way home and suggest Randall's idea
below, sounds very do-able. Thanks for the suggestions.

" To do it on a lathe, put in the inner races then mount the hub between
centers.  Even though the taper of the centers won't match the taper of
the
races, it should locate the hub very well."

Curt
"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" Steve McQueen
from Le Mans

From trglory at comcast.net  Mon Mar 17 12:50:42 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:50:42 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
In-Reply-To: <002f01c88863$ee05da80$ca118f80$@net>
References: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>
	<002f01c88863$ee05da80$ca118f80$@net>
Message-ID: <003801c88868$2f346b80$8d9d4280$@net>

Brian;

Here is a tiny URL http://tinyurl.com/2kqsv4 to take you there.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Joe Laurito
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 3:20 PM
To: 'Lanoway, Brian'; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?

Hi Brian;

The job isn't as hard as you think. Align your carpet, feel the male part
with your fingers and center the "ring" over it pressing it into the rug. If
it isn't centered, just take it out and try again. Once you get it where you
want it, join the two pieces of the snap together. Go to
http://www.cptc.org/tech_tips/CarpetSnaps/installing_rug_snaps_by_joe_laur.h
tm to see how it's done.

Joe


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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1331 - Release Date: 3/16/2008
10:34 AM

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Mon Mar 17 14:53:17 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 14:53:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803171453170.29408@hymn34.u.washington.edu>

Thanks, guys
   Wow, I can't believe I had the definitions wrong all these years.  I thought "near side" was near the driver.  Guess not.  :)
   "Left side" and "right side" are certainly clearer... I think I'll stick with those.
-Nick

> From: zoboherald at aol.com
> > The "off 
> > side" of the car does not change relative to where the steering wheel 
> > is. The off side is always the RH side of the car, and the "near side" 
> > is the LH side (nearest the kerb in the UK, where they drive on the LH 
> > side of the road).
> > 
> > --Andy  Mace
> Which is why I never use that terminology.  Car right.  Car left.  In
> the normal forward direction of travel.  Works for everybody, whether
> you have kerbs or curbs.
> 
> --
> Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA


On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 11:07:00 -0400 zoboherald at aol.com wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: nwolf at u.washington.edu
> 
> Correction: Driver's side for LHD, offside for RHD.  The body-in-white 
> plate did
> not change sides with the steering wheel, unlike some later ID plates.
> 
> ==AM==
> Nick, please forgive a slight correction to your correction. The "off 
> side" of the car does not change relative to where the steering wheel 
> is. The off side is always the RH side of the car, and the "near side" 
> is the LH side (nearest the kerb in the UK, where they drive on the LH 
> side of the road).
> 
> --Andy  Mace

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Mar 17 14:57:50 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:57:50 EDT
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
Message-ID: <bf4.215ff45c.3510435e@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/16/2008 2:09:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

I  suspect some of you may experience arthritis pain in you hands  after
>> working on your cars


You know for me, it's arthritis in my twice repaired left knee which is so  
bad now that the surgeon just looks at the x-ray in dis belief, claiming that 
no  one could survive the amount of pain this must be generating whilst trying 
to  sell me on a total knee replacement. True, I can get down but it's a  
problem getting back up.  I need a sky hook for that and those are limited  in the 
garage where I once worked on Triumphs.  
Happy St. Patrick's Day,
Oh Danny Boy, me pipes, me pipes are calling, form glen to glen and all  that 
rot.
Where's Dave when you need him,
Cheers,
Darrell
  



**************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
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From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Mon Mar 17 15:04:48 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:04:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803171504480.29408@hymn34.u.washington.edu>

That's a heck of a nice car you've got there, Geo!
   I was just starting to shop for a TR4 at the time.  That auction had such a thorough set of photos that I saved them and still refer to them occasionally when I'm away from my '4 and wondering how something is supposed to look.  I hope you don't mind.  ;)

   Another really nice eBay car from the same period was CT6631L, also green but with a white dash.  Did that go to anyone on the list?

-Nick


On Sun, 16 Mar 2008 13:41:47 -0700 ahwahnee at cybertrails.com wrote:
> When Nick did the original post on this he offered a photo of the
> plate from 
> a pic he 'saved from an old eBay auction'.
> 
> I looked at the photo but did not realize it was actually my car pictured. 
> I even went out to the garage to peek at the wheel well to confirm the 
> plate 
> was in place on mine.  Well of course it was (still there).
> 
> Someday I will clean it enough to reveal the number but didn't do it
> now as 
> it is pretty far from the range of cars being discussed.
> 
> Geo

From L1J1S at aol.com  Mon Mar 17 15:19:13 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 18:19:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] time capsule. final price
Message-ID: <d32.27ac7edb.35104861@aol.com>

hello, does anyone know what the final price was for the time capsule  tr3?  
larry schwartz



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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 17 15:20:20 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:20:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803171453170.29408@hymn34.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803171453170.29408@hymn34.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <4d3e01c8887d$1645c5a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

>    Wow, I can't believe I had the definitions wrong all these 
> years.  I thought "near side" was near the driver.  Guess not.  :)

It was, in the situation where the terms originally arose.  Supposedly
originally used to refer to horse teams, where the 'driver' always walked on
the left.
http://www.bartleby.com/81/11955.html

Randall

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Mon Mar 17 15:53:07 2008
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 18:53:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
References: <031720081351.3132.47DE776E00097EA100000C3C22155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004a01c88881$aaebfbd0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>

That may be important to the Lotus List but has no relevance to the Triumph 
list. Who really cares what Lotus does.

JVV


> It was a lot simpler with the Lotus.  There was a plate on the rear edge 
> of the driver door which stated that the car was made in November of 1969.

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Mar 17 16:05:27 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 19:05:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] time capsule. final price
Message-ID: <d5a.224713e2.35105337@aol.com>

The one on e-bay went for $39,100. Hum, that may indicate  positive value for 
original cars.  BTW, I have been hunting and now  have an offer to obtain an 
original TR250.  Jasmine Yellow,  original interior and motor.  Has been 
resprayed so it is looking  good.  
The Trill is in the Hunt.
Now What?
Darrell 



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From mikey22 at prodigy.net  Mon Mar 17 17:05:44 2008
From: mikey22 at prodigy.net (MIKE CARROLL)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:05:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] heat shrink tape
Message-ID: <862381.43930.qm@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

to the gentleman looking for heat shrink tape last week check out Harbor Freight part number 90851-onea for $9.99 just saw it in the latest catalog 2327-c.
It's 2" wide by 10 ft. long

mike carroll
Santa Cruz

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Mar 17 17:14:40 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:14:40 -0700
Subject: [TR] seal-spare tire well lid tr3
References: <d51.25f6ba39.35104661@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8888d$0fedad20$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

Hi Lawrence,
My lip goes toward the inside. I have attached a photo for your review. I
trust this might help.I am not sure which correct, but my fit looks is good
when the spare tire compartment lid is on.
Ibsen

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: L1J1S at aol.com
  To: flashtr3 at cox.net
  Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 3:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] seal-spare tire well lid tr3


  ibsen, which does the lip, on the rubber point to? the square part of the
rubber goes inside the track and then the lip sticks out. does your lip on the
rubber goes towards the outside or the inside of the track?  lawrence





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[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Rear View.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR3 rear bumper.JPG]

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 17 19:04:16 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 21:04:16 -0500
Subject: [TR] time capsule. final price
References: <d5a.224713e2.35105337@aol.com>
Message-ID: <008601c8889d$858c5a30$800101df@garage.local>

trill away . . . 



> The Trill is in the Hunt.
> Now What?
> Darrell 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 17 19:05:04 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 21:05:04 -0500
Subject: [TR] time capsule. final price
References: <d5a.224713e2.35105337@aol.com>
Message-ID: <008701c8889d$85e24260$800101df@garage.local>

i for one, being a natural born cynic, do not believe the car is as 
over-advertised.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <L1J1S at aol.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] time capsule. final price


> The one on e-bay went for $39,100. Hum, that may indicate  positive value 
> for
> original cars.  BTW, I have been hunting and now  have an offer to obtain 
> an
> original TR250.  Jasmine Yellow,  original interior and motor.  Has been
> resprayed so it is looking  good.
> The Trill is in the Hunt.
> Now What?
> Darrell

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Mon Mar 17 19:35:31 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 20:35:31 -0600
Subject: [TR] time capsule. final price
In-Reply-To: <008701c8889d$85e24260$800101df@garage.local>
References: <d5a.224713e2.35105337@aol.com>
	<008701c8889d$85e24260$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <47DF2A73.3030407@tscusa.org>

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I suppose ...
If indeed it is as described, great.  But like has been said for 
thousands of years ...
Caveat Emptor ...

Oliver wrote:
> i for one, being a natural born cynic, do not believe the car is as 
> over-advertised.
-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Mon Mar 17 19:53:31 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 22:53:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] time capsule. final price
References: <d5a.224713e2.35105337@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005e01c888a3$4077d0e0$e51b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Ask "HER" for the money !!!! "FT"
===================================================================================================

> The one on e-bay went for $39,100. Hum, that may indicate  positive value 
> for
> original cars.  BTW, I have been hunting and now  have an offer to obtain 
> an
> original TR250.  Jasmine Yellow,  original interior and motor.  Has been
> resprayed so it is looking  good.
> The Trill is in the Hunt.
> Now What?
> Darrell

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Mon Mar 17 20:04:50 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 23:04:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] time capsule. final price
In-Reply-To: <47DF2A73.3030407@tscusa.org>
References: <d5a.224713e2.35105337@aol.com>
	<008701c8889d$85e24260$800101df@garage.local>
	<47DF2A73.3030407@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <8CA56BBF74CA596-112C-203C@FWM-D43.sysops.aol.com>

 Guys, the car only sold for $19K, the rest was for the description!


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Glenn A. Merrell <StagByTriumph at tscusa.org>
To: Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 10:35 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] time capsule. final price










Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I suppose ...
If indeed it is as described, great.  But like has been said for 
thousands of years ...
Caveat Emptor ...

Oliver wrote:
> i for one, being a natural born cynic, do not believe the car is as 
> over-advertised.
-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs 
on the windshield!

From tr3bob at cox.net  Tue Mar 18 05:25:16 2008
From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 8:25:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
In-Reply-To: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>
Message-ID: <20080318082516.XG9MY.62289.imail@eastrmwml32>

Hi Brian,

I'm not sure I know which "male and female" snaps you mean. 

In the past, I've used barbed rings that are put in from the top of the carpet. These barbs protrude through the carpet and fit through slots in the "female" fitting on the underside. The fittings then snap into the male fitting in the floor. 

If these are the fittings you describe then you can apply chalk to the male snap fitting on the floor, lay the carpet down which will mark the position on the underside, then install the female snap from the top.

Hope this helps

Bob Stahlbush, pres. British Motorcars of N.E. (2001-2006)

60 TR3A
66MGB
70 BSA T-Bolt
70 BSA Lightning
76 Midget
83 XJ-6


  

---- "Lanoway wrote: 
> I'm trying to put in a 'magic carpet set' from TRF and the hardware kit
> came with female and male snaps to put on the underside of the carpets
> to hold things down.  Right now, I'm trying to use my existing male
> snaps previously installed on my floors - which is a real pain because
> you're trying to match things up blind from the top side of the carpet.
> I guess I could alternatively somehow mount the new male and female
> snaps as a set and drill through the carpet and snap sets to position
> and create new rivet holes in the floors.
> 
> No apparent option seems easy to me and I'm struggling with this like
> the real amateur that I am.  Does anyone on the List have a 'trick of
> the trade' to easily locate and install undercarpet snaps?
> 
> Thanks so much in advance,
> 
> Brian Lanoway
> 1973 TR6
> Winnipeg
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as tr3bob at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Tue Mar 18 05:30:02 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 12:30:02 -0000
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
References: <031720081351.3132.47DE776E00097EA100000C3C22155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<004a01c88881$aaebfbd0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <06a201c888f3$ca28a170$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Jerry Van Vlack wrote:

> That may be important to the Lotus List but has no relevance to the Triumph
> list. Who really cares what Lotus does.

You may not, Jerry - but Lotus was a good customer of Standard-Triumph for a number of years and 
bought in a lot of ST componentry (steering and suspension mostly) for use in its own cars. That 
action brought in cash, so Lotus is actually quite important from an historical standpoint.

Jonmac 

From trglory at comcast.net  Tue Mar 18 05:43:50 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 08:43:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] time capsule. final price
In-Reply-To: <d5a.224713e2.35105337@aol.com>
References: <d5a.224713e2.35105337@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007901c888f5$b760d240$262276c0$@net>

Darrell; 

The car is no longer original if it has been resprayed. As B B King would
say, the Trill is gone.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 7:05 PM
To: L1J1S at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] time capsule. final price

The one on e-bay went for $39,100. Hum, that may indicate  positive value
for 
original cars.  BTW, I have been hunting and now  have an offer to obtain an

original TR250.  Jasmine Yellow,  original interior and motor.  Has been 
resprayed so it is looking  good.  
The Trill is in the Hunt.
Now What?
Darrell 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1332 - Release Date: 3/17/2008
10:48 AM

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Mar 18 07:06:08 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 10:06:08 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumphs at the Glen 4-7September08 includes registration info
Message-ID: <cb6.26996e51.35112650@cs.com>

Lists:

It's no secret. Triumphs will be represented at the fabled Glen AND in the 
Village.  The featured race will be sponsored by Classic Motorsports Magazine 
and Moss. Special contibution to the event will be made by TRF by bringing in 
the LeMans TRS.  The FoT and the Village will also honor Joe & Dottie Richard's 
very historic Triumph TR2 TS LO.

Kas & Peg Kastner will be our very special guests and will be presenting the 
coveted Kastner Cup.  Many other notable Triumph folks will be there.......a 
lot of them.

Joe Alexander


Now for the the Racers----heads up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you are a potential race entrant or know someone who maybe a candidate as 
an entrant, please react as quickly as possible to Jack Woerhle's appeal.

The SVRA Website is SVRA.COM and copies of the application for entry are 
there for your use.

Please note that the cost of entry is different for our Triumphs than the 
general population. ($375.00)  No SVRA membership is required for Triumph.

ALSO, please note that entrants outside of the Continental North America are 
FREE.

Below is a 'reprint' of Jack W's appeal to us, just in case it might have got 
past you.

(Note the comment on extra group or session....even more track time possible)

Joe A.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------

WATKINS GLEN REGISTRATION

In order to plan the groupings and schedule, you folks should have your  
entries in by June 1. It is to everyone's benefit to make this happen. If we 
get  
enough cars, it may be possible to get you an extra session or group. If you  
drag it out, that may not happen.


Also, keep in mind that you must send me a Race Car Information Sheet and  
several photos of your car if you haven't raced with SVRA recently. All of 
you  
non-vintage guys will also need to send a documentation of you car's racing  
history. Log book records work well for that.

The entry form and RCIS are on the website now.

Do this now: don't wait until the last minute.

Jack Woehrle
SVRA
      </HTML>

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Mar 18 07:09:11 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 10:09:11 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
In-Reply-To: <06a201c888f3$ca28a170$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <031720081351.3132.47DE776E00097EA100000C3C22155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<004a01c88881$aaebfbd0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>
	<06a201c888f3$ca28a170$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <8CA5718C607798D-12D0-3AE4@WEBMAIL-MA02.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: John Macartney <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>

Jerry Van Vlack wrote:

> That may be important to the Lotus List but has no relevance to the 
Triumph
> list. Who really cares what Lotus does.

"Jonmac" replied:

You may not, Jerry - but Lotus was a good customer of Standard-Triumph 
for a
number of years and
bought in a lot of ST componentry (steering and suspension mostly) for 
use in
its own cars. That
action brought in cash, so Lotus is actually quite important from an 
historical
standpoint.

==AM==
Right as usual, John. And it continues to this day, as restorers of 
older Lotus 7s, 11s, and various Lotus formula race cars seek out new 
or good used vertical links, steering arms and such from the fabled 
Standard 8/10 and Herald front suspensions. That's how well regarded 
those Standard-Triumph-designed components were back then, that they 
were used on a number of the most famous race cars of the era!

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Mar 18 07:44:50 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 14:44:50 +0000
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
Message-ID: <031820081444.23135.47DFD5620003CD6A00005A5F22165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

>    Another really nice eBay car from the same period was CT6631L, also green but 
> with a white dash.  

Weren't painted dashboards on TR4 cars always white regardless of the body color?

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Tue Mar 18 08:13:43 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 11:13:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
In-Reply-To: <031820081444.23135.47DFD5620003CD6A00005A5F22165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <031820081444.23135.47DFD5620003CD6A00005A5F22165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8CA5721C939254E-12D0-3F2A@WEBMAIL-MA02.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: pethier at comcast.net

>    Another really nice eBay car from the same period was CT6631L, 
also green but with a white dash.

Weren't painted dashboards on TR4 cars always white regardless of the 
body
color?

==AM==
I think so, yes. Early ones were Spa White, but some later ones may 
have been #19 "New" white.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Mar 18 08:24:04 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 11:24:04 EDT
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
Message-ID: <c3a.2f435536.35113894@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/17/2008 4:59:48 PM Central Daylight Time, 
TR250Driver at aol.com writes: 
> You know for me, it's arthritis in my twice repaired left knee which is so  
> 
> bad now that the surgeon just looks at the x-ray in dis belief, claiming 
> that 
> no  one could survive the amount of pain this must be generating whilst 
> trying 
> to  sell me on a total knee replacement. 

But will that new knee be points off in concours?  Are there any NOS knees 
available?

> 
> True, I can get down but it's a  problem getting back up.  I need a sky hook 
> for that and those are limited  in the 
> garage where I once worked on Triumphs.  
> Happy St. Patrick's Day,
> Oh Danny Boy, me pipes, me pipes are calling, form glen to glen and all  
> that 
> rot.
> Where's Dave when you need him,

Out playing "Danny Boy" in 14 different bars on one day.  If I hear it again 
in the next 364 days I think I will be ill.  ;-)

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 18 08:43:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 08:43:18 -0700
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
In-Reply-To: <c3a.2f435536.35113894@cs.com>
References: <c3a.2f435536.35113894@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4e9f01c8890e$c9d2ec10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Out playing "Danny Boy" in 14 different bars on one day.  If 
> I hear it again 
> in the next 364 days I think I will be ill.  ;-)

Some would argue you've already demonstrated that you are ill.
:^)

Randall

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Mar 18 09:03:33 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 12:03:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
Message-ID: <c10.2e0782f2.351141d5@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/18/2008 10:43:37 AM Central Daylight Time, 
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: 
> >Out playing "Danny Boy" in 14 different bars on one day.  If 
> >I hear it again 
> >in the next 364 days I think I will be ill.  ;-)
> 
> Some would argue you've already demonstrated that you are ill.
> 
My brother likes to recite the old joke 
Q: What is the definition of a gentleman?
A: A man who can play bagpipes and doesn't.

Dave   

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 18 09:11:32 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 12:11:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
In-Reply-To: <c3a.2f435536.35113894@cs.com>
References: <c3a.2f435536.35113894@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W22F17FBBEB625D4F52C615BA060@phx.gbl>

14 bars in one day. I don't think it's the song that will make you ill :)

Marty> > Out playing "Danny Boy" in 14 different bars on one day. If I hear it
again > in the next 364 days I think I will be ill. ;-)
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Mar 18 09:56:39 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 09:56:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
In-Reply-To: <031820081444.23135.47DFD5620003CD6A00005A5F22165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
References: <031820081444.23135.47DFD5620003CD6A00005A5F22165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7B6CDF9856B54C30B2C7874102F078B9@GeoPC>

Yes.

I believe Nick's comment was contrasting that TR4 with my later TR4 which 
was on eBay about the same time and which was also green but with a wood 
dash.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <pethier at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 7:44 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate


>>    Another really nice eBay car from the same period was CT6631L, also 
>> green but
>> with a white dash.
>
> Weren't painted dashboards on TR4 cars always white regardless of the body 
> color? 

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Tue Mar 18 10:03:45 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 10:03:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803181003450.21938@hymn33.u.washington.edu>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: pethier at comcast.net
> 
> >    Another really nice eBay car from the same period was CT6631L, 
> also green but with a white dash.
> 
> Weren't painted dashboards on TR4 cars always white regardless of the 
> body
> color?

Yes indeed!  I guess I should have said "but with a white dash instead of wood".  (Geo's car, to which I had referred in the previous sentence, has a wood dash).
-Nick

From pethier at comcast.net  Tue Mar 18 11:12:28 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 18:12:28 +0000
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 Configuration Wheel well plate
Message-ID: <031820081812.25785.47E0060C0001FCE7000064B922165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu
> Yes indeed!  I guess I should have said "but with a white dash instead of wood".  
> (Geo's car, to which I had referred in the previous sentence, has a wood dash).
> -Nick

Ah.  Now I follow you.  Thanks.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From m.newhart at comcast.net  Tue Mar 18 14:08:01 2008
From: m.newhart at comcast.net (m.newhart at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 21:08:01 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR4A HS6 Carb linkage adj.
Message-ID: <031820082108.17444.47E02F3100076CAA0000442422058844849B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net>

I can't seem to get the throttle linkage adjustment correct on my HS6 SU carbs.  The front carb always opens more than the rear.  Any insights or suggestions?  Thanks,  M. Newhart

From peter at nosimport.com  Tue Mar 18 14:19:11 2008
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter C)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 16:19:11 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4A HS6 Carb linkage adj.
In-Reply-To: <031820082108.17444.47E02F3100076CAA0000442422058844849B9D0
	E08990A02D203@comcast.net>
References: <031820082108.17444.47E02F3100076CAA0000442422058844849B9D0E08990A02D203@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080318161843.031e9bc8@nosimport.com>

At 04:08 PM 3/18/2008, m.newhart at comcast.net wrote:

>I can't seem to get the throttle linkage adjustment correct on my 
>HS6 SU carbs.  The front carb always opens more than the rear.  Any 
>insights or suggestions?  Thanks,  M. Newhart
------------------
The fast idle screw is often overlooked.
PeterC 

From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu  Tue Mar 18 14:25:49 2008
From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:25:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spit--dragging brake caliper
Message-ID: <a0611040dc405dfb89077@[10.16.5.205]>

I put remanufactured brake calipers on my 1980 Spit last summer along 
with new rotors and new hoses from the brakes to the brake lines all 
around.  The right caliper must be rubbing the rotor without the 
brakes applied as I get pretty extreme pull to the right while 
driving; when I apply brakes it evens out.  Overall, the braking 
action is pretty weak.  I have to push very hard to get a good stop 
when I am at even moderate speeds.  As a result I haven't driven it 
at all over the winter.  I took it on the road yesterday, with the 
same problems showing up, and now I have some time to work on it.  Am 
I looking at a brake caliper problem for sure, or could there be 
something simpler (less expensive) at fault?  Is it possible for air 
in the line to affect one side that way?  Even if the PDWA valve 
isn't centered, it wouldn't affect left-right brake action, would it? 
Believe me, I'm going to try to bleed the system before doing 
anything else, but is there any chance that I will cure the drag by 
doing that?

Thanks for any advice,
Tim
Clinton, SC
1980 Spitfire
1974 TR6

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Tue Mar 18 14:42:09 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:42:09 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR transmission bearings
Message-ID: <d37.27d3dd20.35119131@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/17/2008 9:25:14 AM Mountain Daylight Time,  
wensley_Tr at comcast.net writes:

Where  are these parts manufactured?


_http://www.fag.com/content.fag.de/en/company/company.jsp_ 
(http://www.fag.com/content.fag.de/en/company/company.jsp) 
 
Don't want to do business with the Jerris, eh?

 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Mar 18 14:46:43 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:46:43 EDT
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
Message-ID: <c8f.235a1b08.35119243@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/18/2008 11:11:54 AM Central Daylight Time, 
trmarty at hotmail.com writes: 
> 14 bars in one day. I don't think it's the song that will make you ill :)
> 
Nope.  It's getting groped by old, drunk women that will do it.

Dave   

From dwillner at ptd.net  Tue Mar 18 14:49:12 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:49:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
Message-ID: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

What would be required as far as the wiring goes and hooking up a small back
up light off the rear overrider bracket on a TR3A?

Dave Willner
Stroudsburg, PA
59 TR3A Apple Green
70 MGB BRG
70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Tue Mar 18 14:50:30 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:50:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
Message-ID: <bd5.28cce17c.35119326@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/17/2008 12:11:02 PM Mountain Daylight Time,  
Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com writes:

drill  through the carpet and snap sets to position


I really don't think you want to do that.  I did something  similar once and 
my wife learned a few new words as I watched one of the weft  threads in the 
carpet spin up on the drill bit and unravel the pile.
 
How about clicking the female bits to the old male on your car, dabbing a  
bit of blue chalk line chalk on them and then laying in the carpet and patting  
firmly.  Should leave a pretty decent mark on the bottom of the  carpet.
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue Mar 18 15:01:25 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 18:01:25 -0400
Subject: [TR] Spit--dragging brake caliper
In-Reply-To: <a0611040dc405dfb89077@[10.16.5.205]>
References: <a0611040dc405dfb89077@[10.16.5.205]>
Message-ID: <20080318220127.KHAK17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 05:25 PM 3/18/2008, Tim Gaines wrote:

>  Am
>I looking at a brake caliper problem for sure, or could there be
>something simpler (less expensive) at fault?

Sure...lots of things to go wrong.  <g>

>  Is it possible for air
>in the line to affect one side that way?

Probably not.

>   Even if the PDWA valve
>isn't centered, it wouldn't affect left-right brake action, would it?

It shouldn't.

>Believe me, I'm going to try to bleed the system before doing
>anything else, but is there any chance that I will cure the drag by
>doing that?

Could be...

Here's what I would do, assuming the fault is consistent:  Drive the 
car until the brakes are warmed up and dragging.  Then jack up the 
front wheel and verify the fault and location.  In toher words, make 
sure the wheel is really dragging.

Once verified, then while the wheel is dragging, open the bleed screw 
- if the wheel then turns free, it's most likely not the caliper but 
a brake hose, or other fault preventing the fluif from returning.  If 
the wheel still drags, then you likely have a bad caliper.  To make 
sure, check the end float on the wheel bearings once the caliper is 
out of the way.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/
Athens, Georgia         #354 


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
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From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Mar 18 15:09:24 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:09:24 -0500
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
References: <c8f.235a1b08.35119243@cs.com>
Message-ID: <006201c88944$ba6b3a30$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

Hmm.  Sounds like a 14-bar blues.

Mike

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Dave1massey at cs.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Arthritis.


> In a message dated 3/18/2008 11:11:54 AM Central Daylight Time,
> trmarty at hotmail.com writes:
>> 14 bars in one day. I don't think it's the song that will make you ill :)
>>
> Nope.  It's getting groped by old, drunk women that will do it.

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue Mar 18 15:12:00 2008
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 18:12:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] Early TR4 change points
References: <031720081351.3132.47DE776E00097EA100000C3C22155688849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net><004a01c88881$aaebfbd0$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5><06a201c888f3$ca28a170$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<8CA5718C607798D-12D0-3AE4@WEBMAIL-MA02.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <006001c88945$1702fe40$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>

Now this is interesting stuff and relevant to the Triumph list discussion. 
Where they placed their build date on the other hand is not. Who really 
cares?

JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <zoboherald at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Early TR4 change points


> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Macartney <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
>
> Jerry Van Vlack wrote:
>
>> That may be important to the Lotus List but has no relevance to the
> Triumph
>> list. Who really cares what Lotus does.
>
> "Jonmac" replied:
>
> You may not, Jerry - but Lotus was a good customer of Standard-Triumph
> for a
> number of years and
> bought in a lot of ST componentry (steering and suspension mostly) for
> use in
> its own cars. That
> action brought in cash, so Lotus is actually quite important from an
> historical
> standpoint.
>
> ==AM==
> Right as usual, John. And it continues to this day, as restorers of
> older Lotus 7s, 11s, and various Lotus formula race cars seek out new
> or good used vertical links, steering arms and such from the fabled
> Standard 8/10 and Herald front suspensions. That's how well regarded
> those Standard-Triumph-designed components were back then, that they
> were used on a number of the most famous race cars of the era!
>
> --Andy  Mace
>
> *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
> *Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er,
> Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
> -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)
>
> Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph
> Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Tue Mar 18 15:12:39 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 18:12:39 EDT
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
Message-ID: <cef.2d702bc2.35119857@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/18/2008 5:10:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mmarr at notwires.com writes: 
> Hmm.  Sounds like a 14-bar blues.
> 
Can you hum a few bars of it?  Or maybe all 14?

Dave   

From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue Mar 18 15:28:38 2008
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 18:28:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
References: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <00a701c88947$69ada490$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>

Dave it can be done and controlled by the Transmission being placed into 
reverse. I did it on my 4A using an overdrive isolator switch. On the 
Transmission top cover there is a boss that needs to be drilled and tapped 
for the correct thread. It's overtop of the control rod that engages reverse 
gear. This basic transmission was used in sedans as well as TR's and the 
sedans had back up lights. Wiring is straight forward from there using the 
switch the same as you would any switch in a circuit.
If you'd like more information write to me and I'll fill in the blanks for 
you.
JVV

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 5:49 PM
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question


> What would be required as far as the wiring goes and hooking up a small 
> back
> up light off the rear overrider bracket on a TR3A?
>
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 18 15:40:56 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 15:40:56 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
In-Reply-To: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
References: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <4f6a01c88949$218b14c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> What would be required as far as the wiring goes and hooking 
> up a small back
> up light off the rear overrider bracket on a TR3A?

Depends on whether you want it to be automatic, and how bright you want it.


The simplest version would be a manually-operated light of not more than
40-50 candlepower, which could be a simple switch on the dash (or under it)
with a wire to the power terminal on the fuel gauge (or anywhere else the
"green" circuit can be found, like on the fuse block) and another wire to
the lamp.  Of course, you would need to remember to turn it off after you're
done backing up (which I would forget more often than not).

To make it automatic (ie come on only when reverse gear is selected), you'll
need to add a switch to the gearbox somehow.  If your gearbox is early
enough (I forget the change point offhand), it will already have a brass
plug over the reverse rail.  If not, you'll need to drill & tap the top
cover using an oddball (not normally found in sets) metric thread.  Don't
recall for sure if you need to modify the reverse fork/rail to operate the
switch, but I think not.  Wiring remains the same as above.

For higher power, I would suggest adding a relay.  Wire the switch as above
to one of the coil terminals, then ground the other coil terminal.  One
contact gets a wire to the existing brown/blue wire at the ammeter or
control box; the other contact gets wired to the lamp.

I would also run a stout ground wire from the lamp to a bolt on the body
somewhere.

HTH
Randall

From mmarr at notwires.com  Tue Mar 18 15:59:36 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 17:59:36 -0500
Subject: [TR] Arthritis.
References: <cef.2d702bc2.35119857@cs.com>
Message-ID: <003701c8894b$bd9aa400$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

After visiting a few bars I might make an attempt!
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dave1massey at cs.com
  To: mmarr at notwires.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 5:12 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] Arthritis.


  In a message dated 3/18/2008 5:10:00 PM Central Daylight Time,
mmarr at notwires.com writes:

    Hmm.  Sounds like a 14-bar blues.


  Can you hum a few bars of it?  Or maybe all 14?

  Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 18 16:01:12 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 16:01:12 -0700
Subject: [TR] Spit--dragging brake caliper
In-Reply-To: <a0611040dc405dfb89077@[10.16.5.205]>
References: <a0611040dc405dfb89077@[10.16.5.205]>
Message-ID: <4f7401c8894b$f6697cc0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Believe me, I'm going to try to bleed the system before doing 
> anything else,

Waste of time, IMO.  As Jeff said, first step is to ensure you really have a
brake problem, as suspension problems can sometimes cause symptoms like
that.  And since the front calipers share a common line from the PDWA, it
can't be a PDWA or MC problem either.

Randall

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Mar 18 17:10:27 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 20:10:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
References: <bd5.28cce17c.35119326@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002d01c88955$a56eb2e0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

I can't believe that Dave Massey didn't have anything to say about the 
following:

How about clicking the female (bits) to the old male on your car, dabbing a
bit of blue chalk line chalk on them and then laying in the carpet and 
patting
firmly.  Should leave a pretty decent mark on the bottom of the  carpet.


Sounds messy to me  -- although patting firmly while on the carpet was 
always fun.
Tom 

From tfansher at comcast.net  Tue Mar 18 17:12:37 2008
From: tfansher at comcast.net (THOMAS FANSHER)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 20:12:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Denver area happenings
Message-ID: <003401c88955$f10262b0$5918e247@DCS78M81>

Janet and I will be in Denver early April 10,11 and 12 for a business meeting
- anything Triumph related going on?
TIA
Tom

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue Mar 18 19:24:48 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:24:48 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
References: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<00a701c88947$69ada490$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5>
Message-ID: <04ad01c88968$68244270$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hi Jerry,
This is a pretty easy task. Easily made automatic. My TR3A has a Lucas 
period reverse light that I added and made it automatic. The Lucas light 
lights up a 100 foot driveway beautifully, Here's how you do it. (If you 
need a picture, let me know) First off, a simple "L" bracket that attaches 
to the fastening bolt of the tranny just below the shifter arm. The bracket 
comes up on a slight angle and finishes off just behind the and below the 
shifter extension. Attached to this is a $5 TR6 brake switch. The brake 
switch works just like it would in a TR6 brake position. When you shift into 
reverse the shift bar either engages the switch or releases it (I cannot 
remember off hand). The wiring is straight forward, just like in a TR6. Very 
simple and cheap. You will have to figure the height and angle of the 
bracket. The switch you can get at the big 3 or NAPA.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A (with a Lucas backup light and Lucas rear fog light)
72 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Van Vlack" <jerryvv at roadrunner.com>
To: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 6:28 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 back up light question


> Dave it can be done and controlled by the Transmission being placed into
> reverse. I did it on my 4A using an overdrive isolator switch. On the
> Transmission top cover there is a boss that needs to be drilled and tapped
> for the correct thread. It's overtop of the control rod that engages 
> reverse
> gear. This basic transmission was used in sedans as well as TR's and the
> sedans had back up lights. Wiring is straight forward from there using the
> switch the same as you would any switch in a circuit.
> If you'd like more information write to me and I'll fill in the blanks for
> you.
> JVV
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Dave Willner" <dwillner at ptd.net>
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 5:49 PM
> Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
>
>
>> What would be required as far as the wiring goes and hooking up a small
>> back
>> up light off the rear overrider bracket on a TR3A?
>>
>> Dave Willner
>> Stroudsburg, PA
>> 59 TR3A Apple Green
>> 70 MGB BRG
>> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
> _______________________________________________

From jercurry at comcast.net  Tue Mar 18 19:54:13 2008
From: jercurry at comcast.net (Jeremiah Curry)
Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 20:54:13 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR3 compression test
In-Reply-To: <002901c85d8a$244327b0$6a01a8c0@screamer>
Message-ID: <001801c8896c$84500890$0202fea9@screamer>

Thanks for everyone who responded to my e-mail below.  I ended up buying a
new gear reduction starter and when testing with the starter, the
compresssion rate definitely went up.  Now I am worried it may be too high.
Here are the results front to back:
140 psi
130 psi
155 psi
145 psi

I think since the head was shaved by the previous owner and then I had it
rebuilt, I have a much smaller compression chamber.  Is this too much over
the expected 120 psi that I should be worried?  Or is the 25 psi differnce
worrisome?

Thanks,
Jeremiah

-----Original Message-----
From: vtr-bounces+jercurry=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:vtr-bounces+jercurry=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Jeremiah Curry
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 11:35 PM
To: vtr at autox.team.net
Subject: [VTR] TR3 compression test


howdy all,

I just put the head back on my TR3 the other day and wanted to make sure I
did everything right, and that the parts were all good.  We did a leak down
test and 2 of the cylinders where "yellow" and two were "green".  To be
doubly sure, I borrowed a compression tester from autozone and did that
test.  My starter has decided not to cooperate since then, so I had to turn
the engine over with the hand-crank.  Due the manual nature, I only went
through about 2-3 compression cycles, but the PSI rating for the cylenders
were from 30-60 psi.  I understand I should be looking for 120 psi.  Is this
an indication that something is horribly wrong?

to test the tester, we put it on my brother's 5.2L jeep v8 and it got 85
psi, that seemed a little low too.  Any insight would be appreciated.

thanks,
Jeremiah

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This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From tr3bob at cox.net  Wed Mar 19 04:19:53 2008
From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 7:19:53 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
In-Reply-To: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <20080319071953.17B3L.73860.imail@eastrmwml32>

Why would you want a B.U. light on your TR3 Dave? 

I tend to be a "strictly stock" guy to a fault and once had a friend ask me why the aftermarket electric fuel pump on his TR3 kept  burning up. He had previously replaced 3 in a year.

I don't consider myself an expert in the TR 3 by any means and will often look to the list for advice but told him that I thought he might have tapped into an already overloaded unfused circuit to power up the pump.

I told him that he should go back to the stock mechanical pump and offered to rebuild it for him......viola!!....success.

I think the electrical system in the TR3 is marginal at best and guess I would be a little concerned about overloading the lamp circuit in the rear of the car.

I wouldn't "tap" into any exisiting wires, but run separate 18ga wires directly from the fuse block. If you use the gearbox switch, just make sure you don't overload it.

FWIW

Bob Stahlbush, pres British Motorcars of NE (2001-2006)

60 TR3A
66 MGB
70 BSA T-Bolt
70 BSA Lightning
76 Midget
83 XJ-6

   


---- Dave Willner <dwillner at ptd.net> wrote: 
> What would be required as far as the wiring goes and hooking up a small back
> up light off the rear overrider bracket on a TR3A?
> 
> Dave Willner
> Stroudsburg, PA
> 59 TR3A Apple Green
> 70 MGB BRG
> 70 BSA 441 Victor Special
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as tr3bob at cox.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Dave1massey at cs.com  Wed Mar 19 05:59:31 2008
From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 08:59:31 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
Message-ID: <ccd.2e0c26da.35126833@cs.com>

In a message dated 3/18/2008 7:11:19 PM Central Daylight Time, 
tfansher at comcast.net writes: 
> I can't believe that Dave Massey didn't have anything to say about the 
> following:
> 
> How about clicking the female (bits) to the old male on your car, dabbing a
> bit of blue chalk line chalk on them and then laying in the carpet and 
> patting
> firmly.  Should leave a pretty decent mark on the bottom of the  carpet.


What can I add that already hasn't been said?







Well, and stay politically correct, that is.

Dave

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 19 10:24:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 09:24:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
In-Reply-To: <20080319071953.17B3L.73860.imail@eastrmwml32>
Message-ID: <20080319162432.WUAG10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> I tend to be a "strictly stock" guy to a fault 

Then you'll be pleased to know that a "reversing light" was an original
option.  P/N 502251

Randall

From trglory at comcast.net  Wed Mar 19 09:37:04 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 12:37:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
In-Reply-To: <20080319071953.17B3L.73860.imail@eastrmwml32>
References: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
	<20080319071953.17B3L.73860.imail@eastrmwml32>
Message-ID: <001601c889df$78031780$68094680$@net>

Bob;

The sad truth is that some of us veteran TR3 drivers are older than our cars
and the eyes just don't work as good as they used to (especially at night).
I used to be able to navigate backwards at night using the faint red
glow.....that just don't get the job done anymore. A backup light is being
installed on my TR3 resurrection also.

I am "strictly stock" most of the time, but I believe that safety trumps
tradition. I understand my limitations and don't intend to be a danger to
myself or others on the road, so I make changes when I feel they are
necessary (I learned this from a guy named Bob Schaller).

You are correct when you state that the electrical system may struggle to
support a back up light. In fact, the basic electrical system is so woefully
inadequate that it sometimes cannot even support the standard components. I
changed over to an alternator and now have white headlights instead of
yellow. You are also correct in stating that a whole new wiring circuit must
be added for the light.

Joe Laurito
Central PA Triumph Club

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
tr3bob at cox.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 7:20 AM
To: Dave Willner
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 back up light question

Why would you want a B.U. light on your TR3 Dave? 

I tend to be a "strictly stock" guy to a fault and once had a friend ask me
why the aftermarket electric fuel pump on his TR3 kept  burning up. He had
previously replaced 3 in a year.

I don't consider myself an expert in the TR 3 by any means and will often
look to the list for advice but told him that I thought he might have tapped
into an already overloaded unfused circuit to power up the pump.

I told him that he should go back to the stock mechanical pump and offered
to rebuild it for him......viola!!....success.

I think the electrical system in the TR3 is marginal at best and guess I
would be a little concerned about overloading the lamp circuit in the rear
of the car.

I wouldn't "tap" into any exisiting wires, but run separate 18ga wires
directly from the fuse block. If you use the gearbox switch, just make sure
you don't overload it.

FWIW

Bob Stahlbush, pres British Motorcars of NE (2001-2006)

60 TR3A
66 MGB
70 BSA T-Bolt
70 BSA Lightning
76 Midget
83 XJ-6

   



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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1334 - Release Date: 3/18/2008
8:52 PM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Mar 19 10:27:34 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 12:27:34 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
References: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com><20080319071953.17B3L.73860.imail@eastrmwml32>
	<001601c889df$78031780$68094680$@net>
Message-ID: <001d01c889e6$9212d410$800101df@garage.local>

> The sad truth is that some of us veteran TR3 drivers are older than our 
> cars


thank you for the reminder :-(

that's depressing, except it sure beats the alternative! 

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Mar 19 10:43:33 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 13:43:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
References: <000801c88941$e8197080$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com><20080319071953.17B3L.73860.imail@eastrmwml32>
	<001601c889df$78031780$68094680$@net>
	<001d01c889e6$9212d410$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <000e01c889e8$c0f97110$c7197247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Lets see now, car was born ====TODAY===, driver was much, much earlier, 
Happy Birthday LBC 46103 "FT"
============================================================================

>> The sad truth is that some of us veteran TR3 drivers are older than our
>> cars
>
>
> thank you for the reminder :-(
>
> that's depressing, except it sure beats the alternative!
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From agraham at execulink.com  Wed Mar 19 13:42:01 2008
From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 16:42:01 -0400
Subject: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
Message-ID: <200803192041.m2JKfe7A007295@smtp1.execulink.net>

Hello list:
Not sure if this was addressed in earlier posts.
Asking about the oil seal in the body of the fuel pump for the TR2-4 
range. All the rebuild kits I have do not include this seal. Just 
wondering if the seal is available from any source or how necessary 
it really is?
I noticed that the rebuild kits that TRF carries have this seal 
included, but was hoping I wouldn't have to get yet another rebuild 
kit just for the seal.
Any experiences with or without this seal?
Thanks in advance.

Angelo Graham

From dwillner at ptd.net  Wed Mar 19 14:50:31 2008
From: dwillner at ptd.net (Dave Willner)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 17:50:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
References: <20080319162432.WUAG10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <003101c88a0b$41b4f230$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>

Being from the same "strickly stock" school as many of us, I'm sure you knew 
this was coming....do you happen to know what the optional light, err lamp, 
looks like? I've seen some very nice Wipac and Lucas pieces that I'd feel ok 
about installing, maybe not feel ok about using, but installing, yes....

Thanks
Dave

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 back up light question


>> I tend to be a "strictly stock" guy to a fault
>
> Then you'll be pleased to know that a "reversing light" was an original
> option.  P/N 502251
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 19 15:03:14 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 15:03:14 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
In-Reply-To: <200803192041.m2JKfe7A007295@smtp1.execulink.net>
References: <200803192041.m2JKfe7A007295@smtp1.execulink.net>
Message-ID: <519901c88a0d$07da3cd0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Any experiences with or without this seal?

Angelo, I believe the seal serves two purposes.  The first purpose is
probably no longer necessary, that of keeping crankcase fumes away from the
pump diaphragm.  Modern diaphragms now have nitrile rubber in them (in order
to withstand modern fuels, which the original diaphragms would not), which
also makes them more resistant to crankcase fumes.

The second purpose is not all that critical either; when the diaphragm does
develop a leak, the seal helps keep the leaking fuel out of the crankcase
(and dripping from the weep hole where it will hopefully be noticed).

I found an old brake rubber in the junk bin that made an approximation of
the seal, and after a few tries to find a diaphragm compatible with
"reformulated" gasoline, the result lasted quite well.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 19 15:20:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 15:20:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
In-Reply-To: <003101c88a0b$41b4f230$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
References: <20080319162432.WUAG10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>
	<003101c88a0b$41b4f230$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com>
Message-ID: <51ac01c88a0f$7fe33b80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> do you happen to know what the optional 
> light, err lamp, 
> looks like?

Unfortunately, No, I don't.  No illustration in the parts catalogue, and no
mention of it in the Lucas catalog.  Not in TRA judging standard either.

Of course, I've seen several "period correct" lamps just as you have, but no
way to know which one is "as original" ... which of course means no one else
can say yours is "wrong" either <G>

I'm planning to mount a nice Wipac to the top of one of the rear bumpers,
perhaps with a halogen bulb in it.

Randall

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Mar 19 16:03:32 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 19:03:32 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR250 Offered
Message-ID: <cea.2cdd0fe6.3512f5c4@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
I referred to a Hunt which revealed a 68 TR250.  This is a very nice  solid 
original that has been resprayed, Jasmine yellow as original.  It is  offered 
reluctantly @ $19,500.  I have NFI and do not intent to buy it,  YET!  The 
owner would like it to go to a real Triumph Type Guy, he is not  in a hurry, 
somewhat still attached and I will repeat, reluctant.  If  anyone is seriously 
interested I could hook you up with him. The car is  located in NE OHIO. It is a 
Keeper.
Regards,
Darrell



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Wed Mar 19 19:11:46 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 22:11:46 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 back up light question
Message-ID: <c57.2b4f801f.351321e2@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/19/2008 5:21:17 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

> do  you happen to know what the optional 
> light, err lamp, 
> looks  like?

Unfortunately, No, I don't.  No illustration in the parts  catalogue, and no
mention of it in the Lucas catalog.  Not in TRA  judging standard either.

Of course, I've seen several "period correct"  lamps just as you have, but no
way to know which one is "as original" ...  which of course means no one else
can say yours is "wrong" either  <G>

I'm planning to mount a nice Wipac to the top of one of the  rear bumpers,
perhaps with a halogen bulb in  it.



==AM==
I don't know for certain, but I would guess that Triumph would've supplied  a 
Lucas L494 lamp unit if you ordered that part number, and possibly a Lucas  
pull switch with a small white light in the center of the knob to actuate the  
lamp. An ultra-quick search turns up this picture of the lens:
 
_http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=&pgCode=010&sgName=Search&pgNam
e=Lighting&agCode=0063&agName=Reverse%2FRear+Fog+Lamp+%2D+Parts&pCode=L4945457
7770_ 
(http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=&pgCode=010&sgName=Search&pgName=Lighting&agCode=0063&agName=Reverse/Rear+Fog+Lamp+-+Parts&pCode=L49454
577770) 
 
If that link doesn't work, go to _http://www.holden.co.uk_ 
(http://www.holden.co.uk)  and search for L494.  Complete lamps turn up on eBay every so often 
and usually bring pretty good  prices in either the reversing (white lens) or 
fog (red lens) versions.
 
--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 19 22:07:12 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 21:07:12 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 compression test
In-Reply-To: <001801c8896c$84500890$0202fea9@screamer>
Message-ID: <20080320040711.ETVY1365.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> I ended up buying a new gear reduction starter and when testing 
> with the starter, the compresssion rate definitely went up.  
> Now I am worried it may be too high.

Jeremiah, this is exactly why one should never look at the absolute value of
the compression readings, only the variation between cylinders.  Obviously
(I hope !) changing the starter did not change the condition of the valves,
rings and cylinder walls; which is what you are trying to gauge with a
compression test.

So, I would say the 140 psi is no concern at all.  And since the maximum
variation from the average (142.5) is less than 10%, I'd say the condition
of the rings, valve, etc. is acceptable.  5% would be better, but 10 will
do.

Randall

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Wed Mar 19 22:01:39 2008
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 22:01:39 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 - installing carpet snaps - is there a trick to this?
In-Reply-To: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>
References: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0803192201u69ca9579sde66353b317b4329@mail.gmail.com>

Brian,
The quickest and easiest way I found was to mount a male ring upside down in
a female ring and place both on top of the snap on the floor board. The male
prongs facing up. Put the carpet in place and push down a little by the snap
and rings. The prongs will pop through the carpet. (but from the wrong
side). I pull the carpet up holding the rings onto the back of the carpet
and then using the prongs sticking through from the back as a guide place a
male ring where the other one is by lining up the prongs. Remove the male
piece from the back after pushing the male ring into place from the front.
Slip on the female ring on from the back and bend over the prongs (I used
needle nose pliers with a tight rolling over action using the female ring to
brace the pliers to get a tight fit) and it should line up right where the
snap is.

Good luck!

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 20 07:31:20 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 14:31:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
In-Reply-To: <519901c88a0d$07da3cd0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <200803192041.m2JKfe7A007295@smtp1.execulink.net>
	<519901c88a0d$07da3cd0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W465BC35F159133E2D5D102E5000@phx.gbl>

Look in your area for a "Hose shop'.  These place sell industrial hosing to
heavy equipment operators and the commercial marine industry.  They usually
have a wide selection of fuel resistant o-rings and other essential pieces.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 15:03:14 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
>
> > Any experiences with or without this seal?
>
> Angelo, I believe the seal serves two purposes.  The first purpose is
> probably no longer necessary, that of keeping crankcase fumes away from the
> pump diaphragm.  Modern diaphragms now have nitrile rubber in them (in
order
> to withstand modern fuels, which the original diaphragms would not), which
> also makes them more resistant to crankcase fumes.
>
> The second purpose is not all that critical either; when the diaphragm does
> develop a leak, the seal helps keep the leaking fuel out of the crankcase
> (and dripping from the weep hole where it will hopefully be noticed).
>
> I found an old brake rubber in the junk bin that made an approximation of
> the seal, and after a few tries to find a diaphragm compatible with
> "reformulated" gasoline, the result lasted quite well.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your
"fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx

From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com  Thu Mar 20 12:28:19 2008
From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 12:28:19 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR7 Question
Message-ID: <001a01c88ac1$bf8477b0$4db05545@DFKQ4L31>

Does anyone know if a slipped timing chain on a TR7 will bend the valves? or is there enough clearance for the motor to spin freely 
without hitting anything.

Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA 

From brad.kahler at 141.com  Thu Mar 20 13:11:58 2008
From: brad.kahler at 141.com (Brad Kahler)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 20:11:58 GMT
Subject: [TR] TR7 Question
Message-ID: <200803201411118.SM04268@[166.70.182.40]>

If the timing is not correct the valves will interfere with the pistons.B  So
basically if you've slipped a tooth or two you've likely smacked the piston(s)
against one or more valves.
Brad
-----Original Message-----
From: <hdrider570 at peoplepc.com>
Sent 3/20/2008 1:28:19 PM
To: "Triumph Mailing List" <Triumphs at Autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR7 QuestionDoes anyone know if a slipped timing chain on a TR7
will bend the valves? or is there enough clearance for the motor to spin
freely
without hitting anything.
Edward Hamer
Petaluma CA
_______________________________________________

From wquincy at cox.net  Thu Mar 20 14:51:07 2008
From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 16:51:07 -0500
Subject: [TR] leaky brake pipe
Message-ID: <CBEA0597-487F-40AB-9D84-A31493845899@cox.net>

I've replaced brake pipes on my TR3A with a copper /nickel set.
I have one connection that won't seal. the pipe from the master  
cylinder to
front union. Anything special with this connection or nifty  
workarounds to share.
Bill Quincy
Wichita Kansas

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 20 15:04:42 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 15:04:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] leaky brake pipe
In-Reply-To: <CBEA0597-487F-40AB-9D84-A31493845899@cox.net>
References: <CBEA0597-487F-40AB-9D84-A31493845899@cox.net>
Message-ID: <005d01c88ad6$66889280$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I've replaced brake pipes on my TR3A with a copper /nickel set.
> I have one connection that won't seal. the pipe from the master  
> cylinder to
> front union. Anything special with this connection or nifty  
> workarounds to share.

You didn't by any chance remove the residual pressure valve ?  It's been a
long time, but ISTR that where the RPV screws into the 5-way union looks
like the right threads, but doesn't have a suitable seat for the line.  You
need to have at least the shell of the RPV to make it all fit and seal.

Randall

From terryrs at comcast.net  Thu Mar 20 16:31:25 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 23:31:25 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
Message-ID: <032020082331.13291.47E2F3CD0009DB09000033EB22165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> Look in your area for a "Hose shop'. 

Learned something today.  I always thought "hose shop" was a euphemism for the IRS....

Never too old....

Terry Smith  ('59 TR3A)
New Hampshire

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Thu Mar 20 16:58:56 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 19:58:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
Message-ID: <cf4.254723ea.35145440@aol.com>

Hi Randall,
Would you rebuild your TR fuel pump today with a NOS kit if you had one -  or
toss it, and buy the modern kit? I have an ~'80's rebuild kit (including stem
seal) that looks great - but if it's gonna melt down in the first year...
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

Modern diaphragms now have nitrile rubber in them (in order
to withstand modern fuels, which the original diaphragms would not), which
also makes them more resistant to crankcase fumes.
**************
Create a Home
Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home.

(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0003
0000000001)

From wbeech at flash.net  Thu Mar 20 19:47:56 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 20:47:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
Message-ID: <004301c88afd$f8940bb0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

The commission plate on my TR3 is pretty shabby, I notice that the big 3
sell replacements for a reasonable cost.  Are these as good a quality as the
original?  Can I indeed take the plate to a jeweler and have it engraved to
looked like the stamped numbers on the existing plate.  I am afraid that a
jeweler would do a perfectly aligned job that would not be consistent with
what most TRs left the factory with.
 
Is there anyone on the list that provides plates with number stamped on them
in the fashion of the original?
 
Thanks,
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From Wetmgs at aol.com  Thu Mar 20 21:21:58 2008
From: Wetmgs at aol.com (Wetmgs at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 00:21:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR6 Parts availability?
Message-ID: <d2c.248a448d.351491e6@aol.com>

I have a 74 TR6 to restore for my brother and have  found the following: 
    1.  Aluminum steering column tube crushed 
    2.  Upper half of steering column tube bracket is  broken 
    3.  Bent left front frame to bumper brace 
    4.  Left front overrider damaged 
    5.  Left front turn and running light assembly bent  with rubber rips 
    6.  Left front wheel hub bent 
    7.  2 bent steel wheels  
    8.  These are just a few of the things needed but  they involve, parts 
mostly not available new, as far as I know.  
Any suggestions welcome,  looking for parts. I'm in NW Washington State, 
Seattle/Tacoma area. My  brother is in Sacrament, CA.  
marc d. 
Bremerton,  WA 




**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 20 23:24:41 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 22:24:41 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
In-Reply-To: <cf4.254723ea.35145440@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080321052439.FFUV1365.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> Would you rebuild your TR fuel pump today with a NOS kit if 
> you had one

Nope!  BTDT.

> I have an 
> ~'80's rebuild kit (including stem
> seal) that looks great - but if it's gonna melt down in the 
> first year...

As I recall, it was only a month or two.  Genuine AC NORS kit started
leaking almost immediately.  I'm not sure ethanol is as bad as MTBE ... but
I wouldn't take the chance.

Randall

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Mar 21 03:57:14 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 06:57:14 EDT
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
Message-ID: <cbc.2b5d0adf.3514ee8a@aol.com>

IMHO replacing the plate no matter how shabby removes too much of the  
"history" of the car.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From pethier at comcast.net  Fri Mar 21 07:26:19 2008
From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 14:26:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
Message-ID: <032120081426.26169.47E3C58B000100D20000663922155670749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>

From: DLylis at aol.com
> IMHO replacing the plate no matter how shabby removes too much of the  
> "history" of the car.
>  
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO

I agree.

--
Phil Ethier  West Side  Saint Paul Minnesota  USA
1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban,
1994 Miata C package
pethier [at] comcast [dot] net    http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier
I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Fri Mar 21 07:51:23 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 14:51:23 +0000
Subject: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
In-Reply-To: <032020082331.13291.47E2F3CD0009DB09000033EB22165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <032020082331.13291.47E2F3CD0009DB09000033EB22165279669C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W42E4DD5CBCAE52B9E6A9E8E5010@phx.gbl>

Actually if you type the name in full and miss the "T" and hit a "Y" instead
it comes out Inyernal Revenue Service.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: terryrs at comcast.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 23:31:25 +0000
> Subject: Re: [TR] Fuel pump oil seal
>
> > Look in your area for a "Hose shop'.
>
> Learned something today.  I always thought "hose shop" was a euphemism for
the IRS....
>
> Never too old....
>
> Terry Smith  ('59 TR3A)
> New Hampshire
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
In a rush?  Get real-time answers with Windows Live Messenger.
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From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Fri Mar 21 09:08:50 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 12:08:50 -0400
Subject: [TR] Florida: Spit Engine/Trans FS
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>
	<1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <00c501c88b6d$da3fce90$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>

NFI, saw this on Craigslist ... 
http://treasure.craigslist.org/pts/607945828.html

Seller claims it is an OD box ... I don't think it is, but really don't know 
Spits well enough to know!
**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 7:30 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles


> Kudos to whoever persuaded Nelson to let these be put back up (without his
> name) !
>
> And Thank You Bob, for posting the info to the TR list.
>
> You might relay one minor correction back to whoever maintains the Buckeye
> site :
> On
> http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm
> the link to the Chicago MG clubs article on brake fluid is outdated.  They
> have moved the article to
> http://www.chicagolandmgclub.com/techtips/general/525b.html
>
> Randall
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as triumph at 2simpleusa.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Mar 21 10:46:09 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:46:09 -0000
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
References: <032120081426.26169.47E3C58B000100D20000663922155670749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00b901c88b7b$72dbb9e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> From: DLylis at aol.com
>> IMHO replacing the plate no matter how shabby removes too much of the
>> "history" of the car.

>From Phil Ethier
> I agree.

So when a new enthusiast comes across a Triumph whose comm plate has been subjected to a lot of 
weathering so all the paint has come off and only a curious a stamped number remains where once 
there was more, what then? Happens on plenty of them.

Jonmac 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Fri Mar 21 10:56:51 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 10:56:51 -0700
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
In-Reply-To: <00b901c88b7b$72dbb9e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <032120081426.26169.47E3C58B000100D20000663922155670749D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net>
	<00b901c88b7b$72dbb9e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <0929874C0FCF434688C670F991F5D582@GeoPC>

Especially on the LHD TR4 where the plate resides right below the 
brake/clutch fluid reservoirs.

My TR3A commission plate shows it's age but I don't mind that... but the TR4 
plate was just the piece of bare metal Jonmac describes.  A little too far 
gone for me.

http://www.geocities.com/tucson_british_car_register/tr4-commission.html

Still have the old one in case someone someday prefers it.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
>
> So when a new enthusiast comes across a Triumph whose comm plate has been 
> subjected to a lot of
> weathering so all the paint has come off and only a curious a stamped 
> number remains where once
> there was more, what then? Happens on plenty of them. 

From team.net at daveola.com  Fri Mar 21 11:00:10 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (Dave's Auto Responder)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 11:00:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 07.0} Triumphs Digest,
 Vol 2, Issue 142]
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1206126000.27814.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E1JclXG-0004yw-80@dave.getdave.com>

My automated mail filter determined that email you sent me was
unsolicited commercial email ("spam")

From:     triumphs-bounces+team.net=daveola.com at autox.team.net
Date:     Fri Mar 21 11:00:09 2008
Subject:  {SPAM 07.0} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 142


IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS NOT SPAM:

  Many apologies for the error!  My filter software is not perfect!
  I have saved (but not read the mail you sent).  You can send me a new
  mail with the subject "CONTACT REQUEST" asking me to read the original,
  and I'll try to fix whatever caused the email to get flagged as spam.
  You can also contact me through: http://GetDave.com/Contact/

IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS SPAM:

  This is in violation of state law because it violates
  the Terms Of Use of my mail server:  http://Daveola.com/Terms/

  Do not *ever* mail me again.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Fri Mar 21 11:04:24 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 14:04:24 -0400
Subject: [TR] Florida: Spit Engine/Trans FS
In-Reply-To: <00c501c88b6d$da3fce90$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>
	<1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<00c501c88b6d$da3fce90$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>
Message-ID: <8CA59952122156E-F70-7C0@webmail-da03.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Gordon <triumph at 2simpleusa.com>

NFI, saw this on Craigslist ...
http://treasure.craigslist.org/pts/607945828.html


Seller claims it is an OD box ... I don't think it is, but really don't 
know Spits well enough to know!

==AM==
I do not see any evidence of the OD unit on the back of that gearbox. 
:-(

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 21 12:06:28 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 12:06:28 -0700
Subject: [TR] Florida: Spit Engine/Trans FS
In-Reply-To: <8CA59952122156E-F70-7C0@webmail-da03.sysops.aol.com>
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc><1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><00c501c88b6d$da3fce90$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>
	<8CA59952122156E-F70-7C0@webmail-da03.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <01fa01c88b86$aa8cc590$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I do not see any evidence of the OD unit on the back of that gearbox. 
> :-(

I agree, no overdrive on the unit shown.

Randall

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Fri Mar 21 12:22:32 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 12:22:32 -0700
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1206126000.27814.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <03b601c88b88$e9d59180$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

I replaced the comm plate on my 4a and used a set of metal stamps from HF to
make it correct. Had to test the surface I used underneath to get the
correct depth, but found that the maple surface of my bench worked just
right. I tried to line the alpha-numeric characters as best as I could, but
found it looked just like the original when done. Yeah, doesn't have the
"old look" like a 41 year old car piece should have, but neither does the
rest of the car... I was going for "just from the show room" look.

Brian
'67 4a

-----Original Message-----
------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 20:47:56 -0600
From: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <004301c88afd$f8940bb0$6401a8c0 at sniffer>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The commission plate on my TR3 is pretty shabby, I notice that the big 3
sell replacements for a reasonable cost.  Are these as good a quality as the
original?  Can I indeed take the plate to a jeweler and have it engraved to
looked like the stamped numbers on the existing plate.  I am afraid that a
jeweler would do a perfectly aligned job that would not be consistent with
what most TRs left the factory with.
 
Is there anyone on the list that provides plates with number stamped on them
in the fashion of the original?
 
Thanks,
 
Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Fri Mar 21 12:26:46 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 12:26:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] Who killed the British Motor Industry
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1206126000.27814.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <03b701c88b89$80e9b740$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

I stumbled upon this today and thought you all would get a kick out of it...
yes, I do have a job! :-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAWH0EfMDfc&feature=related

Be sure to watch all 3 parts - it explains everything!

Brian
'67 4a

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Mar 21 13:00:44 2008
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 16:00:44 EDT
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
Message-ID: <cc0.2d727de5.35156dec@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/20/2008 10:47:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wbeech at flash.net writes:

The  commission plate on my TR3 is pretty shabby, I notice that the big 3
sell  replacements for a reasonable cost.  Are these as good a quality as  the
original?


Bill,
I believe the quality is acceptable on the repro plates for TR3's.  I  go 
both ways on my TR's.  Some have ratty to nice originals and some I have  
replaced w/o being real picky about the stampings matching original type and  style. 
Regardless just FYI, in VTR Concours judging all are good and no  deductions 
are taken for ratty originals or quality repro's.
Cheers,
Darrell 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Fri Mar 21 13:25:18 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 13:25:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR]  Repro Comm Plates
Message-ID: <44882.95349.qm@web57812.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

The original TR3 plates that I have seen have slightly recessed boxed areas for the stamping where as the reproduction plates I have seen are flat, as though screen printed.
   
  Kent Shrack - Lawrence KS

       
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.

From L1J1S at aol.com  Fri Mar 21 14:09:30 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:09:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] rubber adhesive
Message-ID: <c04.312e7f8f.35157e0a@aol.com>

hello, i would like to know what u guys rec' to use when i put on  
the"rubber" to the body of my car. for example, tire trunk seal. door seals,  etc. larry 
schwartz 1960 tr3-a



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Fri Mar 21 16:13:01 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 19:13:01 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 142
Message-ID: <c2b.21240de0.35159afd@aol.com>

thanks Randall

<< > Would you rebuild your TR fuel pump today with a NOS kit if
> you had one

Nope!  BTDT. >>

**************
Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
Home.

(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0003
0000000001)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Mar 21 16:03:06 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 18:03:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] rubber adhesive
In-Reply-To: <c04.312e7f8f.35157e0a@aol.com>
References: <c04.312e7f8f.35157e0a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200803211803.07156.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 21 March 2008 04:09 pm, L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> hello, i would like to know what u guys rec' to use when i put on
> the"rubber" to the body of my car. for example, tire trunk seal. door
> seals,  etc. larry schwartz 1960 tr3-a
>
Larry,

I use that 3M stuff they sell at TRF.

Not sure of the number.

It works pretty good.

20% off sale this weekend at TRF!

Bob

From team.net at daveola.com  Fri Mar 21 17:01:27 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:01:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Apologies for the mail filter, and a question about carbs
Message-ID: <E1JcrFE-00073E-Ji@dave.getdave.com>

Regarding my recent spam filter's decision to bounce the triumphs
mailing list digest, a thousand apologies, that was completely
unintentional.  My spam filter has been whipped and beaten for
the transgression, and the triumphs mailing list has been added
to my whitelist (as I should have done in the first case).

Also, a question.  I followed a URL in the comm plate discussion
and found:

http://www.geocities.com/tucson_british_car_register/tr4-five.html

Which shows a "breather" on the side.

What exactly is the purpose of such a breather?

I recently bought the washable filters that are available, and they look
great, but they have a hole on the back that is fitted to a hose
attachment, and no hose (nor instructions) came with.  Presumably this
is for a breather off the valve cover?  Originally I had thought I
would just connect them together to help maintain some sort of
vacuum balance, but I'm probably wrong on that..

Here's what the washable filters look like:

http://triumph.Daveola.com/Album/Filters/

Any advice?


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
----- It is not possible to both understand and appreciate Intel CPUs -----

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Fri Mar 21 17:22:29 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:22:29 -0700
Subject: [TR] rubber adhesive
In-Reply-To: <c04.312e7f8f.35157e0a@aol.com>
References: <c04.312e7f8f.35157e0a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <392BFEFDCA1C43599ABE6BAD05C207C5@GeoPC>

The 3M adhesive or just plain old weatherstrip seal usually works but I have 
encountered some seals that won't stay put w/o something much stronger (the 
TR4 boot seal comes to mind).  For that I used Gorilla Glue (or the Elmers 
equivalent).

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 2:09 PM
Subject: [TR] rubber adhesive


> hello, i would like to know what u guys rec' to use when i put on
> the"rubber" to the body of my car. for example, tire trunk seal. door 
> seals,  etc. larry
> schwartz 1960 tr3-a

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 21 17:22:43 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:22:43 -0700
Subject: [TR] Apologies for the mail filter, and a question about  carbs
In-Reply-To: <E1JcrFE-00073E-Ji@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1JcrFE-00073E-Ji@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <02a201c88bb2$d8ae72d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> http://www.geocities.com/tucson_british_car_register/tr4-five.html
> 
> Which shows a "breather" on the side.
> 
> What exactly is the purpose of such a breather?

As you surmise, this was the first version of crankcase emission control; a
replacement for the "road draft tube" used in previous years.  In theory,
instead of being released into the atmosphere, any crankcase fumes would be
directed back into the carburetor intakes and burned.  Thereby greatly
reducing hydrocarbon emissions, a major component of smog.

> Originally I had thought I
> would just connect them together to help maintain some sort of
> vacuum balance, but I'm probably wrong on that..

No need for that, IMO.  Just close off the holes somehow so no unfiltered
air gets into the engine (although running a hose between them would be one
way to close them off).

Randall

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Fri Mar 21 17:40:07 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 20:40:07 EDT
Subject: [TR] repro comm plates
Message-ID: <cda.2919eae7.3515af67@aol.com>

On 'older' COMMISSION PLATES (like a 1963 TR4, CT22326L ) the background info
is etched-in, not just screen-painted on top like later car plates or
repros.. Even if most paint is gone on originals like this one, the information
 is
still very readable in the aluminum etch (of course the stamped #s are as
normal). This plate carries years of patina from its harsh environment and loca
tion
- assaults from battery to hydraulic fluids, and from the dropping of many a
tools when used as shelf-space where plate is attached.. most likely this one
will be riveted back in 'as-is' over fresh body paint
when ready.
regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74
---------------------
So when a new enthusiast comes across a Triumph whose comm plate has been
subjected to a lot of weathering so all the paint has come off and only a curio
us
a stamped number remains where once there was more, what then? Happens on
plenty of them. Jonmac 
**************
Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch
the video on AOL Home.

(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0003
0000000001)

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Fri Mar 21 18:25:12 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 21:25:12 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rover
Message-ID: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

In yesterday's Wash. Post, Ford Motor co. is selling Jag., Rover to the
Chinese.  "FT"

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Fri Mar 21 18:48:33 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 21:48:33 EDT
Subject: [TR] Apologies for the mail filter, and a question about   carbs
Message-ID: <c06.2f8fe6cf.3515bf71@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/21/2008 7:23:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

>  http://www.geocities.com/tucson_british_car_register/tr4-five.html
>  
> Which shows a "breather" on the side.
> 
> What exactly  is the purpose of such a breather?

As you surmise, this was the first  version of crankcase emission control; a
replacement for the "road draft  tube" used in previous years.  In theory,
instead of being released  into the atmosphere, any crankcase fumes would be
directed back into the  carburetor intakes and burned.  Thereby greatly
reducing hydrocarbon  emissions, a major component of smog.



==AM==
But in the one picture of the engine there appears to be an additional  
add-on breather of some sort on the LH (distributor) side of the valve cover???  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From jholmgren at advertising.com  Fri Mar 21 18:59:35 2008
From: jholmgren at advertising.com (Jim Holmgren)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 21:59:35 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rover
In-Reply-To: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <5A1055F3C9314142A922A9FC6AC21A6106B62DAF5B@BALT-EMAIL.corp.advertising.com>

Hi Fred,

Most of the recent rumblings about the sale have been to a company called
Tata, which is actually based in India.

Although - I guess it doesn't truly matter in the long run...

http://www.detnews.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2008803190345


Jim


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+jholmgren=advertising.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of FRED E THOMAS
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 9:25 PM
To: triumphs
Subject: [TR] Rover

In yesterday's Wash. Post, Ford Motor co. is selling Jag., Rover to the
Chinese.  "FT"

The information transmitted in this email is intended only for the person(s)
or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or
privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use
of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or
entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you received this
email in error, please contact the sender and permanently delete the email
from any computer.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 21 19:19:48 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 19:19:48 -0700
Subject: [TR] Apologies for the mail filter,
 and a question about    carbs
In-Reply-To: <c06.2f8fe6cf.3515bf71@aol.com>
References: <c06.2f8fe6cf.3515bf71@aol.com>
Message-ID: <02f701c88bc3$3414c880$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> But in the one picture of the engine there appears to be an 
> additional  
> add-on breather of some sort on the LH (distributor) side of 
> the valve cover???  

Dunno ... I see something over there but can't tell what it is.  

Geo ?  Is that your TR4 ?
http://www.geocities.com/tucson_british_car_register/tr4-five.html


Randall

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Fri Mar 21 19:28:03 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 19:28:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] Apologies for the mail filter, and a question about  carbs
In-Reply-To: <E1JcrFE-00073E-Ji@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1JcrFE-00073E-Ji@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <EB65DE75785945C48E830754BE6C7301@GeoPC>

The breather I was referring to in the narrative was an aftermarket thingy 
that someone had installed on the drivers side (LHD) of the valve cover. 
You can just barely see it in the pic.  They had cut a hole in the valve 
cover and a chrome fixture with a breather cap was in place.

Obviously not needed on your 3 as the oil fill cap breathes as well as you 
have a road draft tube.

I replaced the valve cover on my 4 and eliminated that hole & fixture --  
then I figured out why they did that.  IMO that little tube (on the late 4s) 
that connects to the air cleaners is not really adequate to make up for a 
sealed fill cap and sealed crankcase -- I was pushing oil out of every pore.

In the end I added a road draft tube and lose less oil than when everything 
was sealed up (at least that is how it appears looking at the garage floor).

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Ljung Madison" <team.net at daveola.com>
>
> http://www.geocities.com/tucson_british_car_register/tr4-five.html
>
> Which shows a "breather" on the side.
>
> What exactly is the purpose of such a breather? 

From jmitch at snet.net  Sat Mar 22 05:20:28 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 08:20:28 -0400
Subject: [TR] Uprated front axles
Message-ID: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net>

   I'm planning on rebuilding the front end on my TR6 and was wondering 
about A.R.E.'s uprated spindles.  The car is a street driver and I've 
never noticed any brake kick back in a turn.  Is this something I should 
include in a complete rebuild?  Thanks,  John Mitchell   76TR6

From twakeman at razzolink.com  Sat Mar 22 06:50:44 2008
From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 05:50:44 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rover
In-Reply-To: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
References: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
Message-ID: <47E50EB4.6070809@razzolink.com>

FRED E THOMAS wrote:
> In yesterday's Wash. Post, Ford Motor co. is selling Jag., Rover to the
> Chinese.  "FT"

Tata is the second largest Indian automobile manufacturer.  They have 
cash to throw at the two British companies design efforts and plan to 
keep vehicle manufacturing in the UK.  They will eventually undo the 
changes Ford has made so Jags will no longer be Lincolns under the skin.

This could very well be a good thing.

Teriann

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar 22 06:37:06 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 13:37:06 +0000
Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
In-Reply-To: <03b601c88b88$e9d59180$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <mailman.5.1206126000.27814.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<03b601c88b88$e9d59180$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W481B930BBDE6A8D9F135EE5020@phx.gbl>

If you want the old look on your plate try buying some "Metal etch" at the
hardware store and selectively apply it to the area you want to look old.  Be
careful as it will deffinately take the paint off the other areas.  Once
etched in the bare metal areas you can wipe it with some dirty grease from
your under carriage and age it to taste.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 12:22:32 -0700
> Subject: Re: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
>
> I replaced the comm plate on my 4a and used a set of metal stamps from HF
to
> make it correct. Had to test the surface I used underneath to get the
> correct depth, but found that the maple surface of my bench worked just
> right. I tried to line the alpha-numeric characters as best as I could, but
> found it looked just like the original when done. Yeah, doesn't have the
> "old look" like a 41 year old car piece should have, but neither does the
> rest of the car... I was going for "just from the show room" look.
>
> Brian
> '67 4a
>
> -----Original Message-----
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 20:47:56 -0600
> From: "wbeech" <wbeech at flash.net>
> Subject: [TR] Repro Comm Plates
> To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <004301c88afd$f8940bb0$6401a8c0 at sniffer>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> The commission plate on my TR3 is pretty shabby, I notice that the big 3
> sell replacements for a reasonable cost.  Are these as good a quality as
the
> original?  Can I indeed take the plate to a jeweler and have it engraved to
> looked like the stamped numbers on the existing plate.  I am afraid that a
> jeweler would do a perfectly aligned job that would not be consistent with
> what most TRs left the factory with.
>
> Is there anyone on the list that provides plates with number stamped on
them
> in the fashion of the original?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill B
> '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
> '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is giving away Zunes.
http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/ZuneADay/?locale=en-US&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Mobi
le_Zune_V3

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar 22 06:47:41 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 13:47:41 +0000
Subject: [TR] rubber adhesive
In-Reply-To: <c04.312e7f8f.35157e0a@aol.com>
References: <c04.312e7f8f.35157e0a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W182E5E366A66E31C176A2AE5020@phx.gbl>

Contact cement.

Best regards,
Tom

> From: L1J1S at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 21 Mar 2008 17:09:30 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] rubber adhesive
>
> hello, i would like to know what u guys rec' to use when i put on
> the"rubber" to the body of my car. for example, tire trunk seal. door seals,
etc. larry
> schwartz 1960 tr3-a
>
>
>
> **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL
> Home.
>
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00
030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
How well do you know your celebrity gossip?
http://originals.msn.com/thebigdebate?ocid=T002MSN03N0707A

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 22 08:32:55 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 07:32:55 -0800
Subject: [TR] Uprated front axles
In-Reply-To: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net>
Message-ID: <20080322143254.ODJA21903.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

>    I'm planning on rebuilding the front end on my TR6 and was 
> wondering about A.R.E.'s uprated spindles.  The car is a 
> street driver and I've never noticed any brake kick back in a 
> turn.  Is this something I should 
> include in a complete rebuild?

IMO, no, not if you're not having any problems with the original ones.

I do think it's a quality product; and I will be installing them myself
(along with the spacers) because I have had problems with pad knock-back.
But if the stock ones work for you and your driving style, I see no reason
to do the upgrade.

Randall

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Sat Mar 22 08:30:03 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 08:30:03 -0700
Subject: [TR] rubber adhesive
References: <c04.312e7f8f.35157e0a@aol.com>
	<392BFEFDCA1C43599ABE6BAD05C207C5@GeoPC>
Message-ID: <00cb01c88c31$99a25d20$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

In difficult spaces to hold the weather-stripping to a tighter bond, I have
used contact cement on the seal side as well as the contact side of the panel,
then before I make contact to weather strip I heat the strip with a hair dyer
to speed up the tackiness. It helps in those difficult tight areas. I use
lacquer thinner for clean-up.
Ibsen
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn
  To: L1J1S at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 5:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [TR] rubber adhesive


  The 3M adhesive or just plain old weatherstrip seal usually works but I have
  encountered some seals that won't stay put w/o something much stronger (the
  TR4 boot seal comes to mind).  For that I used Gorilla Glue (or the Elmers
  equivalent).

  Geo

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: <L1J1S at aol.com>
  To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Friday, March 21, 2008 2:09 PM
  Subject: [TR] rubber adhesive


  > hello, i would like to know what u guys rec' to use when i put on
  > the"rubber" to the body of my car. for example, tire trunk seal. door
  > seals,  etc. larry
  > schwartz 1960 tr3-a
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Mar 22 08:32:26 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:32:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Transmission Locating Dowels
Message-ID: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc>

Folks,
Herman's 5 speed installation directions stress the use of the locating
dowels between the engine backing plate and the tranny bell housing.
Well....I don't have any locating dowels there. I've got them between the
tranny and the bell housing but only bolts and/or studs between the backing
plate and bell housing. There's two studs side by side at 12 o'clock. I'll
be mounting the tranny to the engine with BOTH out of the car if that makes
a difference. So is this lack of locating dowels a problem and, if so,
what's the options?

As always.....thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Mar 22 08:45:08 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 08:45:08 -0700
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels
In-Reply-To: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <p06240801c40ad95fe0fc@[98.224.7.170]>

Hi Bob  ...
	The  dowels (as I have  learned) are critical.  If a previous 
owner has replaced them with studs ... that is a common error.  I 
think  you will find the list is pretty clear that you need the 
"proper" sized positioning dowel to make your installation as good 
as it can be.
	I believe  the dowels are available from the  big 3


>Folks,
>Herman's 5 speed installation directions stress the use of the locating
>dowels between the engine backing plate and the tranny bell housing.
>Well....I don't have any locating dowels there. I've got them between the
>tranny and the bell housing but only bolts and/or studs between the backing
>plate and bell housing. There's two studs side by side at 12 o'clock. I'll
>be mounting the tranny to the engine with BOTH out of the car if that makes
>a difference. So is this lack of locating dowels a problem and, if so,
>what's the options?
>
>A


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 22 10:08:11 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 09:08:11 -0800
Subject: [TR] Transmission Locating Dowels
In-Reply-To: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <20080322160808.ZQXO22170.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

>  but only bolts and/or 
> studs between the backing plate and bell housing. There's two 
> studs side by side at 12 o'clock.

Bob, I'm not sure I follow you here ... but the original configuration used
two "dowel bolts" that served the purpose of both dowels and bolts.  They
had precision ground shanks that located (aligned) the bellhousing to the
backplate, plus heads & nuts to clamp the bellhousing to the backplate.
This was a change from earlier engines that used plain dowels; so I believe
the clamping function was added for extra strength.

I agree with Herman that the locating function is most important; to the
point that I'm convinced that lack of the correct bolts is a relatively
common cause of clutch and gearbox problems on these cars.  When I checked,
the dowel bolts were NLA from most vendors, except one that appeared to be
selling standard bolts.  Using a standard bolt is a really bad idea, IMO,
because they are made with undersize shanks that allow the gearbox to be out
of alignment with the crankshaft, possibly enough to cause problems
including premature failure of the bearing between the input and output
shafts inside the gearbox.  Without the dowels or dowel bolts; it's
virtually impossible to get this alignment right.  (When I bought my first
Stag, it had exactly this failure, for exactly this reason I believe.)

> if so, what's the options?

Probably easiest is to purchase standard dowels (3/8" as I recall) and put
them in the holes with a little Loctite to hold them into the plate.

There was also a discussion a few years back that there should be some
aircraft specification bolts with the precision ground shanks that would
work.  The part number AN176 was mentioned, tho I'm not sure if that is
right or not.  These are called "close tolerance" bolts by the aircraft
folk, and differ from the more common "relaxed fit" standard aircraft
hardware.

Or, what I did was to buy some "drill rod" from MMC, which I cut to length
and threaded for nuts on both ends.

Randall

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sat Mar 22 10:47:29 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 12:47:29 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels
Message-ID: <8976766.1206208049569.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Bob,

I just use 3/8 inch round steel rod from the hardware store.  I use two 12" (or there about) pieces to make the alignment easier when mating the trans to the back plate. When finished just knock them out and put in the 3/8 bolts last.
Regards,  Greg Perry 

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat Mar 22 10:46:33 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:46:33 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rover
In-Reply-To: <47E50EB4.6070809@razzolink.com>
References: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<47E50EB4.6070809@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <47E545F9.3040808@tscusa.org>

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>
> Tata is the second largest Indian automobile manufacturer.  They have 
> cash to throw at the two British companies design efforts and plan to 
> keep vehicle manufacturing in the UK.  They will eventually undo the 
> changes Ford has made so Jags will no longer be Lincolns under the skin.
>
> This could very well be a good thing.
>
> Teriann
>
>   
Teriann,

Maybe you can enlighten me, because I hear a lot about this re skinned 
approach for a lot of models which for many is very true.

But from my experience having crawled under Jaguars and Lincolns and 
owning a so called  "Ford XJ6 VDP", and wrenched on a few late model 
XJ8's, all the drive line, frame, suspension components in Jaguars 
produced since the Ford influence are still, extremely unique to Jaguar 
XJ style and design of the parts, including the whole suspension system. 

Now the Jaguar X type is actually a reskinned Ford Mondeo (not sold in 
the US) which those I have seen are indeed very similar in the chassis 
and driveline when you pop the hood or look under, and I have read 
reports the S type is formed from another common Ford chassis, which may 
be the Lincoln LS compact series.  But those two cars are indeed 
products of strong Ford influenced design at Jaguar Engineering being 
produced in the 2002 model years. A lot of people do not consider the X 
or S types Jaguar designs, but all Ford design.  Maybe those are the 
Jaguars you are referencing?

Ford engineering has had a very strong influence on designing the XJ 
sedan series for higher reliability, and some of the components are made 
in the same pacific rim manufacturing facilities as some other Ford 
parts, but when you crawl under a full size Lincoln and then a full size 
Jaguar XJ sedan, the are quite different in every way.  I have 
autocrossed an XJ sedan, but auto crossing a Lincoln Mark or Town Car 
series would be a real laugher.

 From what I understand the new series all aluminum body, that design is 
also unique to the Jaguar XJ Sedan chassis and is not at all like the 
big Lincolns chassis.

Take one of each for a drive and you will see they are as different cars 
as between night and day, including of course the retail price tags.

I really hope Tata keeps the XJ Sedan series all unique Jaguar, but that 
remains to be seen, just like China is now manufacturing MG as a 4 door 
luxury car sedan.

My humble opinion ...

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat Mar 22 10:56:27 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:56:27 -0600
Subject: [TR] Uprated front axles
In-Reply-To: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net>
References: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net>
Message-ID: <47E5484B.40804@tscusa.org>

John Mitchell wrote:
>    I'm planning on rebuilding the front end on my TR6 and was wondering 
> about A.R.E.'s uprated spindles.  The car is a street driver and I've 
> never noticed any brake kick back in a turn.  Is this something I should 
> include in a complete rebuild?  Thanks,  John Mitchell   76TR6
>
>   
I think considering the age of our Triumphs, one concern has been 
stresses on and breakage of the front stub axle due to cracks, and if a 
bearing has been spun a few times.

Some feel that this is a good reason to upgrade the axles to the Kastner 
influenced and stronger design simply due to ages and stresses.

So one good idea may be to pull your stub axles, have them magnafluxed 
for cracks before you put it all back together.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From triumph66 at gmail.com  Sat Mar 22 10:59:56 2008
From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 13:59:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Who killed the British Motor Industry
In-Reply-To: <03b701c88b89$80e9b740$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <mailman.5.1206126000.27814.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<03b701c88b89$80e9b740$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <a11dceec0803221059q60cf8375p88de8680dd033552@mail.gmail.com>

Great videos all three.  If you'd like to read about it in more detail and
get the wide-lens perspective, track down a copy, libraries only, of Timothy
R. Whisler's "*At the End of the Road: The Rise and Fall of Austin-Healey,
MG and Triumph Sports Cars"*

On Fri, Mar 21, 2008 at 3:26 PM, Brian Induni <308gtsi at roadrunner.com>
wrote:

> I stumbled upon this today and thought you all would get a kick out of
> it...
> yes, I do have a job! :-)
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAWH0EfMDfc&feature=related
>
> Be sure to watch all 3 parts - it explains everything!
>
> Brian
> '67 4a
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as triumph66 at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>



-- 
T.L.L.
1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO
http://www.triumphowners.com/967

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Mar 22 11:00:19 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 18:00:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels
Message-ID: <032220081800.20968.47E5493300036E10000051E82207024553970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Greg Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net> 

> Bob, 
> 
> I just use 3/8 inch round steel rod from the hardware store. I use two 12" (or 
> there about) pieces to make the alignment easier when mating the trans to the 
> back plate. When finished just knock them out and put in the 3/8 bolts last. 


According to Herman, the difference between using the locating dowels and using bolts is enough to severely shorten the life of the clutch. If you are doing the 5 speed conversion, once you knock out the 12" rod, replace them with the dowels, not bolts.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From team.net at daveola.com  Sat Mar 22 11:00:04 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (Dave's Auto Responder)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:00:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs Digest,
 Vol 2, Issue 144]
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5823.1206212361.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E1Jd80i-0003ON-6H@dave.getdave.com>

My automated mail filter determined that email you sent me was
unsolicited commercial email ("spam")

From:     triumphs-bounces+team.net=daveola.com at autox.team.net
Date:     Sat Mar 22 11:00:04 2008
Subject:  {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 144


IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS NOT SPAM:

  Many apologies for the error!  My filter software is not perfect!
  I have saved (but not read the mail you sent).  You can send me a new
  mail with the subject "CONTACT REQUEST" asking me to read the original,
  and I'll try to fix whatever caused the email to get flagged as spam.
  You can also contact me through: http://GetDave.com/Contact/

IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS SPAM:

  This is in violation of state law because it violates
  the Terms Of Use of my mail server:  http://Daveola.com/Terms/

  Do not *ever* mail me again.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat Mar 22 11:20:35 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 12:20:35 -0600
Subject: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs
 Digest, Vol 2, Issue 144]
In-Reply-To: <E1Jd80i-0003ON-6H@dave.getdave.com>
References: <E1Jd80i-0003ON-6H@dave.getdave.com>
Message-ID: <47E54DF3.3000903@tscusa.org>

Hey, is anyone else getting these emails??  These are starting to become 
irritating.

This is almost as bad as "I'm out of the Office" replies ...

I recommend we "GetDave OUT"! unless he fixes his spam blocker to stop 
SPAMMING the list ...

Glenn

Dave's Auto Responder wrote:
> My automated mail filter determined that email you sent me was
> unsolicited commercial email ("spam")
>
> From:     triumphs-bounces+team.net=daveola.com at autox.team.net
> Date:     Sat Mar 22 11:00:04 2008
> Subject:  {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 144
>
>
> IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS NOT SPAM:
>
>   Many apologies for the error!  My filter software is not perfect!
>   I have saved (but not read the mail you sent).  You can send me a new
>   mail with the subject "CONTACT REQUEST" asking me to read the original,
>   and I'll try to fix whatever caused the email to get flagged as spam.
>   You can also contact me through: http://GetDave.com/Contact/
>
> IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS SPAM:
>
>   This is in violation of state law because it violates
>   the Terms Of Use of my mail server:  http://Daveola.com/Terms/
>
>   Do not *ever* mail me again.
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From mmarr at notwires.com  Sat Mar 22 11:22:42 2008
From: mmarr at notwires.com (Michael Marr)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 13:22:42 -0500
Subject: [TR] Rover
References: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu><47E50EB4.6070809@razzolink.com>
	<47E545F9.3040808@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <002a01c88c49$b864bc90$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>

Glen Merrell said:
>
> Now the Jaguar X type is actually a reskinned Ford Mondeo (not sold in
> the US) which those I have seen are indeed very similar in the chassis
> and driveline when you pop the hood or look under, and I have read
> reports the S type is formed from another common Ford chassis, which may
> be the Lincoln LS compact series.  But those two cars are indeed
> products of strong Ford influenced design at Jaguar Engineering being
> produced in the 2002 model years. A lot of people do not consider the X
> or S types Jaguar designs, but all Ford design.  Maybe those are the
> Jaguars you are referencing?
>
My understanding is also that the X-Type and the Mondeo have a common 
platform and the Lincoln LS and the S-Type were also on a common platform. 
I also understood that the LS had the same suspension as the S type and 
pretty much the same engine, making it a (relatively) poor man's S-Type.

The X-Type is (was - it is no longer with us) the only AWD Jag, and the 
reason for this was that the Mondeo's platform is FWD.  The marketing types 
decided that an FWD Jag would not have been acceptable to the Jag 
enthusiast, so the decision was made to make the car AWD, which was more 
easily accomodated than RWD within the constraints of the common platform. 
So it is a little more than a reskinned Mondeo, since it incorporates a rear 
driveline and a totally different rear suspension.  The terms "platform" and 
"chassis" are not synonymous, by the way.  Cars with the same platform can 
have a different chassis.  I believe the "platform" defines the location in 
space of various major components.  The components can be joined together 
somewhat differently from model to model sharing the same plaform.  At 
least, that's my understanding.

I don't believe the XK or XJ platform are used elsewhere within Ford, 
although I have this vague memory that the XK and the DB7 share a common 
plaform.

But, as others may point out, this has nothing to do with Triumphs so I will 
now return to filling out my expense report.

Mike
1960 TR3A
2000 XK8 

From gprtech at frontiernet.net  Sat Mar 22 11:32:03 2008
From: gprtech at frontiernet.net (George Richardson)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 14:32:03 -0400
Subject: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs
 Digest, Vol 2, Issue 144]
In-Reply-To: <47E54DF3.3000903@tscusa.org>
References: <E1Jd80i-0003ON-6H@dave.getdave.com> <47E54DF3.3000903@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <47E550A3.6000705@frontiernet.net>

Yeah, I guess everyone gets them.

George Richardson



Glenn A. Merrell wrote:
> Hey, is anyone else getting these emails??  These are starting to become 
> irritating.
>
> This is almost as bad as "I'm out of the Office" replies ...
>
> I recommend we "GetDave OUT"! unless he fixes his spam blocker to stop 
> SPAMMING the list ...
>
> Glenn
>
> Dave's Auto Responder wrote:
>   
>> My automated mail filter determined that email you sent me was
>> unsolicited commercial email ("spam")
>>
>> From:     triumphs-bounces+team.net=daveola.com at autox.team.net
>> Date:     Sat Mar 22 11:00:04 2008
>> Subject:  {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 144
>>
>>
>> IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS NOT SPAM:
>>
>>   Many apologies for the error!  My filter software is not perfect!
>>   I have saved (but not read the mail you sent).  You can send me a new
>>   mail with the subject "CONTACT REQUEST" asking me to read the original,
>>   and I'll try to fix whatever caused the email to get flagged as spam.
>>   You can also contact me through: http://GetDave.com/Contact/
>>
>> IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS SPAM:
>>
>>   This is in violation of state law because it violates
>>   the Terms Of Use of my mail server:  http://Daveola.com/Terms/
>>
>>   Do not *ever* mail me again.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat Mar 22 11:42:38 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 12:42:38 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <002a01c88c49$b864bc90$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
References: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu><47E50EB4.6070809@razzolink.com>
	<47E545F9.3040808@tscusa.org>
	<002a01c88c49$b864bc90$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
Message-ID: <47E5531E.1070000@tscusa.org>

Michael Marr wrote:
>
> But, as others may point out, this has nothing to do with Triumphs so 
> I will now return to filling out my expense report.
>
> Mike
> 1960 TR3A
> 2000 XK8
Okay, I'll change it back to Triumphs:

Someone (of Triumph factory experience) once said that the T2000/T2500 
and Dolomite were "Badge Engineered", so I wonder what chassis or 
platform series they formed for what other manufacturers?

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca  Sat Mar 22 12:24:56 2008
From: jfenwick1 at cogeco.ca (Jeff Fenwick)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:24:56 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rover
References: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu><47E50EB4.6070809@razzolink.com><47E545F9.3040808@tscusa.org>
	<002a01c88c49$b864bc90$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
Message-ID: <007301c88c52$6a2c6380$6601a8c0@jeffgjd000xgs4>

Lots of information about the current Rover / Jaguar situation,
and historical info on all the former BL brands (including Triumph) at

http://www.austin-rover.co.uk/

Jeff

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Sat Mar 22 14:03:57 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 17:03:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off Topic: C4 Corvette
Message-ID: <051901c88c60$4106e8a0$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>

Not a Triumph topic, but since I rely on the Triumph lists for so much info on
that front, I just wondered whether there were any Corvette owners out there
who I could ask for help?  I've just picked up an 87 C4 Corvette that is in
need of a lot of TLC (why are old car guys so willing to take on rolling
restro's?) ... it runs well and sound great (and next to the TR6, it is BIG
car!!!), but it does need a lot of detail work.

Incidentally, I have found two C4 forums and joined both, but it'll be a while
before I learn how good the advice is (and where the Randall's, Vance's and
Dick Taylor's of the 'vette world are).

Be interesting to see how it performs in AutoX against the TR6!


**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
and now, 87 Corvette
**************************************

From team.net at daveola.com  Sat Mar 22 14:32:27 2008
From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 14:32:27 -0700
Subject: [TR] Embarassment and broken mail filters
Message-ID: <E1JdBNS-0004Go-TQ@dave.getdave.com>

*sigh*

I am embarassed to see I owe a few thousand more apologies.

I had added the triumphs list to my whitelist, and yet it
had a stupid bug in it that made it bounce twice more.

I'm sorry for hitting the list with my garbage.  I believe
it to be fixed now, I've retested it on the mailing list
and it's letting it go through.

I think I should be forced to wash everyone's car now.
Hand the towel, please?


Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dave Ljung Madison          http://GetDave.com/                415.341.5555
--- "Debugging is twice as hard as writing the code in the first place. ---
     Therefore, if you write the code as cleverly as possible, you are,
     by definition, not smart enough to debug it." - Brian W. Kernighan

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Sat Mar 22 15:50:24 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 17:50:24 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs
 Digest, Vol 2, Issue 144]
Message-ID: <491595.1498981206226224139.JavaMail.root@vms126.mailsrvcs.net>

No spam filter or out, get enough SPAM......Craig

From: George Richardson <gprtech at frontiernet.net>
Date: 2008/03/22 Sat PM 01:32:03 CDT
To: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net, triumphs-request at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [mf42] SPAM WARNING - REMOVE [re: {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 144]

Yeah, I guess everyone gets them.

George Richardson



Glenn A. Merrell wrote:
> Hey, is anyone else getting these emails??  These are starting to become 
> irritating.
>
> This is almost as bad as "I'm out of the Office" replies ...
>
> I recommend we "GetDave OUT"! unless he fixes his spam blocker to stop 
> SPAMMING the list ...
>
> Glenn
>
> Dave's Auto Responder wrote:
>   
>> My automated mail filter determined that email you sent me was
>> unsolicited commercial email ("spam")
>>
>> From:     triumphs-bounces+team.net=daveola.com at autox.team.net
>> Date:     Sat Mar 22 11:00:04 2008
>> Subject:  {SPAM 10.5} Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 144
>>
>>
>> IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS NOT SPAM:
>>
>>   Many apologies for the error!  My filter software is not perfect!
>>   I have saved (but not read the mail you sent).  You can send me a new
>>   mail with the subject "CONTACT REQUEST" asking me to read the original,
>>   and I'll try to fix whatever caused the email to get flagged as spam.
>>   You can also contact me through: http://GetDave.com/Contact/
>>
>> IF THE MAIL YOU SENT WAS SPAM:
>>
>>   This is in violation of state law because it violates
>>   the Terms Of Use of my mail server:  http://Daveola.com/Terms/
>>
>>   Do not *ever* mail me again.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 22 17:20:26 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 16:20:26 -0800
Subject: [TR] Transmission Locating Dowels
In-Reply-To: <000101c88c42$5338f130$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <20080322232030.KRIQ10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> As to your drill rod suggestion, how does a 3/8" drill rod 
> differ from a 3/8" bolts shank? Is drill rod fractionally 
> larger or is a bolt shank thinner?

Yes, exactly.  If you take a micrometer to a 3/8" bolt, you will find that
the shank is always somewhat smaller than .375".  It actually varies from
bolt to bolt, but .368" is probably typical.  Frequently they are even
several thousandths out of round.  There are various reasons for this, but
basically it doesn't hurt anything (in 99.9% of all applications), and makes
the bolts much easier to manufacture (meaning cheaper) as well as to
install.  But, being .007" undersize means the gearbox can be out of line by
as much as .014" (plus whatever other tolerances stack up), which is
definitely enough to be a problem.

However, the drill rod is ground to a precise diameter.  The rod I used is
specified as being between .3745" and .3755".  This isn't quite as good as
an actual alignment dowel (3/8" nominal is .3751" - .3753"), but I believe
it's "good enough".

I actually tried to start with a long alignment dowel, but they are
delivered already hardened and my tooling just wasn't up to cutting threads
in a RC40 surface.  The drill rod comes annealed, so is much easier to cut
(and IMO strong/hard enough to use as-is, without further hardening).

And since that Stag had already broken it's equivalent of the rear plate
(it's an alloy casting on a Stag) without the dowel bolts, I feel that
Triumph/BL had a good reason for switching from a standard alignment dowel
to a custom (and expensive) "dowel bolt".  Perhaps it's less critical on a
TR6 with a steel rear plate, I don't know.  But I've also had the
bellhousing flange break (on a TR3A) and I know the factory took a lot of
other steps to strengthen this area, so ...

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Sat Mar 22 17:34:10 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 20:34:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Transmission Locating Dowels
Message-ID: <cf0.2dff4725.3516ff82@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/22/2008 4:21:34 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

differ  from a 3/8" bolts shank? Is drill rod fractionally 
> larger or is a  bolt shank thinner?

Yes, exactly.  If you take a micrometer to a  3/8" bolt, you will find that
the shank is always somewhat smaller than  .375".  It actually varies from
bolt to bolt, but .368" is probably  typical.  Frequently they are even
several thousandths out of  round.  There are various reasons for this, but
basically it doesn't  hurt anything (in 99.9% of all applications), and makes
the bolts much  easier to manufacture (meaning cheaper) as well as to
install.  But,  being .007" undersize means the gearbox can be out of line by
as much as  .014" (plus whatever other tolerances stack up), which is
definitely enough  to be a problem.

However, the drill rod is ground to a precise  diameter.  The rod I used is
specified as being between .3745" and  .3755".  This isn't quite as good as
an actual alignment dowel (3/8"  nominal is .3751" - .3753"), but I believe
it's "good enough".

I  actually tried to start with a long alignment dowel, but they are
delivered  already hardened and my tooling just wasn't up to cutting threads
in a RC40  surface.  The drill rod comes annealed, so is much easier to cut
(and  IMO strong/hard enough to use as-is, without further hardening).

And  since that Stag had already broken it's equivalent of the rear plate
(it's  an alloy casting on a Stag) without the dowel bolts, I feel that
Triumph/BL  had a good reason for switching from a standard alignment dowel
to a custom  (and expensive) "dowel bolt".  Perhaps it's less critical on a
TR6  with a steel rear plate, I don't know.  But I've also had  the
bellhousing flange break (on a TR3A) and I know the factory took a lot  of
other steps to strengthen this area, so  ...

Randall
_______________________________________________




Randall,
I was just a little bit involved with this issue with Herman when he   
developed his conversion kit. 
He spent a lot of time and money to make sure those dowel pin holes are  
located accurately relative to the center of the crankshaft. The attachment  holes 
for the bellhousing to the engine block are large diameter and relatively  
loose tolerance holes. I say "relative" compared to the dowelpin holes. His  
design, like  the factory design depends on the tight fitting dowel pin  holes to 
properly align the transmission. A likely problem will be clutch  failures if 
it is not accurately aligned.
 
Mike Moore 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From supertr6 at earthlink.net  Sat Mar 22 18:02:51 2008
From: supertr6 at earthlink.net (Joe Burlein)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 21:02:51 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rover
In-Reply-To: <47E50EB4.6070809@razzolink.com>
References: <016d01c88bbb$935c3ce0$3a2b7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>
	<47E50EB4.6070809@razzolink.com>
Message-ID: <47E5AC3B.8040208@earthlink.net>

I am reserving judgement.  I've worked with Tata on the computer 
consulting side and I can say they stink.  Unless it was VERY simple we 
always ended up redoing everything.

YMMV.

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> FRED E THOMAS wrote:
>   
>> In yesterday's Wash. Post, Ford Motor co. is selling Jag., Rover to the
>> Chinese.  "FT"
>>     
>
> Tata is the second largest Indian automobile manufacturer.  They have 
> cash to throw at the two British companies design efforts and plan to 
> keep vehicle manufacturing in the UK.  They will eventually undo the 
> changes Ford has made so Jags will no longer be Lincolns under the skin.
>
> This could very well be a good thing.
>
> Teriann
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From L1J1S at aol.com  Sat Mar 22 18:37:23 2008
From: L1J1S at aol.com (L1J1S at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 21:37:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield frame-rechromed
Message-ID: <c5e.2f37906e.35170e53@aol.com>

hello, i am wondering if any of you tr3 owners have had your windshield  
frame and stantchions rechromed. if so , about what can one expect to pay these  
days? are there any good rechromers one can rec'. regards.  larry schwartz  
1960 tr3-a



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Mar 22 19:30:13 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 22:30:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] Locating Dowels Part 2
Message-ID: <000601c88c8d$d4f17350$210110ac@bobspc>

First off........thanks for all the feedback on the criticality of the
transmission locating dowels. The two things I learned are that they ARE
CRITICAL and that most people no longer have them! Herman called me tonight
and he's sending a few replacement dowels along with the McMaster part
number for the ones he uses. He may even include them in future kits. 

Thanks again for everyone's input and help.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Sat Mar 22 20:32:16 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 23:32:16 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
Message-ID: <d0e.245193f0.35172940@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/22/2008 1:44:01 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:

Okay,  I'll change it back to Triumphs:

Someone (of Triumph factory  experience) once said that the T2000/T2500 
and Dolomite were "Badge  Engineered", so I wonder what chassis or 
platform series they formed for  what other manufacturers?



==AM==
That makes little to no sense to me. The 2000/2500/2.5PI are related to  what 
ultimately became the Dolomite mostly in that they share similar styling.  
What ultimately became the Dolomite started in the mid-1960s as the Triumph  
1300, at that time a front-wheel-drive car. The FWD continued into the 1970s,  
but the car was also redesigned for rear-wheel-drive as the Toledo, still with  
the 1296cc engine. Evolutions of that RWD chassis ended up with the  
slant-4-engined Dolimite.  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From auprichard at comcast.net  Sun Mar 23 04:05:20 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 07:05:20 -0400
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield frame-rechromed
In-Reply-To: <c5e.2f37906e.35170e53@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001c88cd5$c91aab30$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1>

Did it last month - $700.00

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
L1J1S at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2008 9:37 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] tr3 windshield frame-rechromed

hello, i am wondering if any of you tr3 owners have had your windshield  
frame and stantchions rechromed. if so , about what can one expect to pay
these  
days? are there any good rechromers one can rec'. regards.  larry schwartz  
1960 tr3-a



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0
0030000000001)
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From terryrs at comcast.net  Sun Mar 23 06:21:56 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 13:21:56 +0000
Subject: [TR] E-Bay Project Car
Message-ID: <032320081321.10105.47E65974000E71340000277922155786749C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

Interesting project car on e-bay.  Looks a bit like the '60 Alpha Romeo Spyder.  Anyone know how long these cars were produced?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1960-LANCIA-PININ-FARINA-APPIA-ULTRA-RARE-PROJECT-CAR_W0QQitemZ270220651005QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item270220651005

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hampshire

From McGaheyRx at aol.com  Sun Mar 23 07:52:17 2008
From: McGaheyRx at aol.com (McGaheyRx at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 10:52:17 EDT
Subject: [TR] Who killed the British Motor Industry
Message-ID: <c0c.2fa833a6.3517c8a1@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/22/2008 2:00:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
triumph66 at gmail.com writes:

Great  videos all three.  If you'd like to read about it in more detail  and
get the wide-lens perspective, track down a copy, libraries only, of  Timothy
R. Whisler's "*At the End of the Road: The Rise and Fall of  Austin-Healey,
MG and Triumph Sports Cars"*








must be a really good book - Amazon lists a used copy from vendor Picasso  
Books for $925
- yeah, that's nine hundred twenty five dollars
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 23 09:44:56 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 08:44:56 -0800
Subject: [TR] Transmission Locating Dowels
In-Reply-To: <cf0.2dff4725.3516ff82@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080323154452.MMTB22170.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

Mike Moore wrote :
 
> He spent a lot of time and money to make sure those dowel pin 
> holes are located accurately relative to the center of the 
> crankshaft.

Yes, of course.  This is the most difficult part of making such an adapter,
and it has to be just right or the resulting setup will have severe
problems.

> The attachment  holes for the bellhousing to the 
> engine block are large diameter and relatively loose 
> tolerance holes. I say "relative" compared to the dowelpin 
> holes.

Very good point, I neglected to mention that.  There are only two precision
holes, and they are the ones that must receive either dowels or dowel-bolts.
But, they are reasonably obvious, since the attachment bolts are 5/16"
(except for the two for the starter).

> His design, like  the factory design depends on the 
> tight fitting dowel pin  holes to properly align the 
> transmission. A likely problem will be clutch  failures if it 
> is not accurately aligned.

I agree entirely.

Randall

From trdoctor at aol.com  Sun Mar 23 13:22:55 2008
From: trdoctor at aol.com (trdoctor at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 16:22:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] tracing a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <006a01c88d1b$030546d0$6501a8c0@yourus67pi6luv>
References: <006a01c88d1b$030546d0$6501a8c0@yourus67pi6luv>
Message-ID: <8CA5B3ACF5D4F1C-DCC-9288@webmail-ne14.sysops.aol.com>

Don't recognize the car but I will post it to the Triumph lists.? Good luck.


-----Original Message-----
From: Mikel Dillon <mikel.dillon at cox.net>
To: gctok at cox.net
Sent: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 2:20 pm
Subject: Fw: tracing a TR3A



Does anyone recognize the car in the attached photo?

?

- Mikel Dillon

? Green Country Triumphs newsletter editor

?


----- Original Message ----- 

From: bob 

To: gctok at cox.net 

Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 4:46 PM

Subject: tracing a TR3A




Hi Samuel

I am a TR enthusiast from England who recently thought that I'd purchased a TR3A from someone in Perry Oklahoma. To cut a very long story short, the 'gentleman' concerned has disappeared with the car (if it ever existed) and my money. The local police and a private investigator are out to find him, and I'm wondering if you might know of the car or recognise it if I were to send you some photos. I suspect that someone else owns it, but might be able to get some trace on the fraudster if I can speak to the owner.

?

Thanks in anticipation

?

Bob Broadbent




[Image Removed] 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Mar 23 13:28:46 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 20:28:46 -0000
Subject: [TR] Who killed the British Motor Industry - recommended reading
References: <c0c.2fa833a6.3517c8a1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007301c88d24$7f6a9690$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> Great  videos all three.  If you'd like to read about it in more detail  and
> get the wide-lens perspective, track down a copy, libraries only, of  Timothy
> R. Whisler's "*At the End of the Road: The Rise and Fall of  Austin-Healey,
> MG and Triumph Sports Cars"*
> must be a really good book - Amazon lists a used copy from vendor Picasso
> Books for $925
> - yeah, that's nine hundred twenty five dollars
>
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc


Read it but its only a bit of the story.  IMHO the best of all the books written about BL is "The 
Leyland Papers" by Graham Turner. Graham knows his subject back to front, inside out and upside 
down. Turner tells it absolutely how it was. I still dip into my copy and occasionally you see a 
copy coming up on ebay or through Amazon. Get it if you can. It's an excellent reference.
Absolutely NFI but if anyone wants an objective and impartial view about the last days of BL at the 
Longbridge Plant (and lots of history before that) Barney Sharratt's book, "Motors and Men of The 
Austin" is another outstanding read. Copiously illustrated with archive photos, Sharratt, like 
Turner, pulls no punches and you'll see one especially high-profile ex Standard-Triumph person who 
was moved to Longbridge getting a less than glowing report. IMHO, what Sharratt says is spot-on!
I'm beginning to sound like a book salesman, now.
Type Gillian Bardsley into Google and see what comes up. Gillian is the Head Archivist at BMIHT 
Gaydon who I worked with closely when I was there. She's done some excellent little books about 
Austin and Morris. The thing is, videos about the demise of the industry in the UK often give an 
inaccurate slant and if you believe the Gospel according to Saint Jeremy Clarkson, it'll all become 
gobbledegook overnight. Watching videos is one thing for a wholly biased view, so quite a number of 
books need to be read for 'triangulation' of the subject and you have to look at the whole industry 
/ the whole of BL / and not just Triumph to work out how it happened and why.

Jonmac 

From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk  Sun Mar 23 13:43:16 2008
From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 20:43:16 -0000
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <47E5531E.1070000@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <20080323213256.17A67187663@autox.team.net>

> Someone (of Triumph factory experience) once said that the T2000/T2500
> and Dolomite were "Badge Engineered", so I wonder what chassis or
> platform series they formed for what other manufacturers?

I think this may be a matter of Chinese whispers. Both Dolomite ad 2000
family were pure Triumph (Michelotti) designs, with little commonality with
other vehicles in the Leyland, and later BL, catalogue. Of course, Triumph
was just one part of a much larger organisation, with access to a very large
parts bin. Odd components cross over to Austin, Morris and (more
significantly) Jaguar, but the designs themselves were pure Triumph.
The Chinese whispers may relate to the Dolomite engine, designed by Triumph
and sold to SAAB. The SAAB variants of the slant-4 engine reached the
marketplace before the indigenous Triumph 1854cc versions. Exact capacities
were different between the Triumph and SAAB versions, but they were part of
a common design. A 1998cc version was also used in the TR7 and (with 16
valves) the Dolomite Sprint.
The confusion with the 2000 and 2500 may again relate to the engines used.
The Mk3 versions of these cars never reached the marketplace, but the
project got as far as 30-40 prototype bodyshells being produced, many of
which reached the road in various forms. The main identifier of the Mk3 cars
is a longer bonnet and nose, with mildly revised shape, to accommodate a
redesigned (longer) engine also intended for the Mk3 project. Though the Mk3
project was axed, mush of the development work benefited other parts of BL.
That longer engine, now bearing little resemblance to the 2000 and 2500 unit
from which it derived, was used in the Rover SD1 Saloons in 2300 and 2600
capacities. So it was a Triumph engine, derived from the Triumph 2000
project, which ended up powering some of Rover's High profile models.
Cheers,
Bill. 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Mar 23 13:34:20 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 20:34:20 -0000
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
References: <d0e.245193f0.35172940@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007401c88d25$462deb60$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Andy Mace wrote:
> That makes little to no sense to me. The 2000/2500/2.5PI are related to  what
> ultimately became the Dolomite mostly in that they share similar styling.
> What ultimately became the Dolomite started in the mid-1960s as the Triumph
> 1300, at that time a front-wheel-drive car. The FWD continued into the 1970s,
> but the car was also redesigned for rear-wheel-drive as the Toledo, still with
> the 1296cc engine. Evolutions of that RWD chassis ended up with the
> slant-4-engined Dolimite.

The 2000/2500/2.5PI range was initially seen as a replacement for the Standard Vanguard which has 
sold so successfully for many years in the world's developing countries. The Vanguard was tough and 
could take abuse in its stride - therefore its successor needed to continue the tradition. The 2000 
(Barb) which apppeared in the early 60's entirely met the requirement. With a body made by Pressed 
Steel Fisher, the 2000 had exceptional torsional rigidity, needing 6,500lbs/ft of torque to twist 
the body one degree. While Michelotti had had the actual styling concepts, it was the engineers at 
ST and PSF who translated GV's inspirations into the Vanguards successor. PSF was an outstanding 
mass producer of bodies for different UK manufacturers and while it was [obviously] contractually 
banned from copying other designs (e.g. the alleged Jaguar X / S types and Lincoln 
"look/smellalikes") it could certainly take ideas and make recommendations based on its other 
manufacturing activities.

In truth, this period of the whole of the Triumph Big Six range of cars, together with the utterly 
delightful little 1300 front wheel drive, was carving out the path that future Triumph models would 
take - until the British government forced the creation of British Leyland and all the chaos that 
followed. The model range was planned to offer substantial value-added in terms of offering a 
product that had significant technological features and improvements, would echo the Triumphs of 
pre-WW2 having sporting and performance characteristics and all packaged into a car that was very 
competitively priced. In the large sedans of the 60's/70's/80's, the little FWD and the later 
Toledo/Dolomite range (to replace Herald and derivatives) you can clearly see where Triumph would be 
going in the marketplace - and it did. These saloons were making money - but then national 
politicians and inter-company 'politics' got in the way and it all went down the tube.

Jonmac 

From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 23 14:50:54 2008
From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 16:50:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] tracing a TR3A
In-Reply-To: <8CA5B3ACF5D4F1C-DCC-9288@webmail-ne14.sysops.aol.com>
References: <006a01c88d1b$030546d0$6501a8c0@yourus67pi6luv>
	<8CA5B3ACF5D4F1C-DCC-9288@webmail-ne14.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W178982593E3D3B1BC9FD0BE1030@phx.gbl>

Team.net lists do not allow attachments.Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA'63 TR3B
TCF587LThat ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!See it moves!> To:
mikel.dillon at cox.net> Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 16:22:55 -0400> From:
trdoctor at aol.com> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject:
Re: [TR] tracing a TR3A> > Don't recognize the car but I will post it to the
Triumph lists.? Good luck.> > > -----Original Message-----> From: Mikel Dillon
<mikel.dillon at cox.net>> To: gctok at cox.net> Sent: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 2:20 pm>
Subject: Fw: tracing a TR3A> > > > Does anyone recognize the car in the
attached photo?> > ?> > - Mikel Dillon> > ? Green Country Triumphs newsletter
editor> > ?> > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: bob > > To:
gctok at cox.net > > Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 4:46 PM> > Subject: tracing a
TR3A> > > > > Hi Samuel> > I am a TR enthusiast from England who recently
thought that I'd purchased a TR3A from someone in Perry Oklahoma. To cut a
very long story short, the 'gentleman' concerned has disappeared with the car
(if it ever existed) and my money. The local police and a private investigator
are out to find him, and I'm wondering if you might know of the car or
recognise it if I were to send you some photos. I suspect that someone else
owns it, but might be able to get some trace on the fraudster if I can speak
to the owner.> > ?> > Thanks in anticipation> > ?> > Bob Broadbent> > > > >
[Image Removed] > _______________________________________________> > Support
Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the
Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as
rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Sun Mar 23 15:14:26 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 18:14:26 EDT
Subject: [TR] quality throw-out bearing?
Message-ID: <d42.1b14850a.35183042@aol.com>

Hi Listers.
Would Federal-Mogul be a top quality nos bearing for a TR2-4 clutch throw-out?
Is there a better brand to look for? What would be considered the best?
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74 
**************
Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch
the video on AOL Home.

(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0003
0000000001)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 23 16:29:16 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 15:29:16 -0800
Subject: [TR] quality throw-out bearing?
In-Reply-To: <d42.1b14850a.35183042@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080323222922.BMUL10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> Would Federal-Mogul be a top quality nos bearing for a TR2-4 
> clutch throw-out?

IMO, Federal-Mogul will work just fine.  They are a respected bearing maker;
plus due to several minor design changes, the TR2-4 are not nearly as picky
about TOB as the TR4A-6 are.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Mar 23 18:56:27 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 21:56:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
Message-ID: <034e01c88d52$46521bc0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I have ordered a new Stainless Steel Pre-bent Brake line set and fuel line
set.  I have also received some excellant advice concerning installation of
the Brake line.  Is the list aware of anything else that I might do to insure
a good installation of the stainless steel Brake line??  My last attempt to
install brake line was over a year or two ago, I was using FLAPS lines and my
flaring failed misrebly.  I am hoping that this time no flaring is involved.
    The advice which I received includes:
1.  Polish flares w/ emery cloth in circular pattern, insure that there are no
scratches even on brass fittings. (I have also purchased a small polishing
wheel for my Dremel rotary tool in hopes that this will also help.)   Check
for burrs w/ a dry Q-tip, the cotton should not catch on anything.
2.  Apply a very thin coat of liquid Teflon Plumbers thread lubricant on both
the mating threaded surfaces and flare mating surfaces. Apply this with a
Q-tip.  The liquid/paste Teflon helps stop galling between the stainless and
brass fittings by providing a bit of lubrication at the interference threads
and sealing points.
3. I've bought new Craftsman brake line wrenches.  I plan to tighten the
flares to 'REALLY TIGHT' (I'd guess that's 75 psi- please feel free to give
imput on this guess)

Also, one of the non-british brake articles I read said that stainless steel
brake lines are not seamless, and as a result only need a single flare.  I
have no idea about this, since I have yet to receive my order from Classic
Tube.  I assume that they'll already have the correct flares and fittings.
But, then, I've been told not to assume.

Thank You,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Mar 23 19:50:12 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 20:50:12 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <20080323213256.17A67187663@autox.team.net>
References: <20080323213256.17A67187663@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <47E716E4.7010806@tscusa.org>

Bill Davies wrote:
>> Someone (of Triumph factory experience) once said that the T2000/T2500
>> and Dolomite were "Badge Engineered", so I wonder what chassis or
>> platform series they formed for what other manufacturers?
>>     
>
> I think this may be a matter of Chinese whispers. Both Dolomite ad 2000
> family were pure Triumph (Michelotti) designs, with little commonality with
> other vehicles in the Leyland, and later BL, catalogue. 
> Cheers,
> Bill. 
>   
Ah yes Bill,
But I did not go so far as to say Badge Engineered "for" who.  It 
appears they may have been Badge Engineered "for" one or two Vanguard 
models to carry a Vanguard badge?

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Mar 24 01:42:29 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 08:42:29 -0000
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
References: <20080323213256.17A67187663@autox.team.net>
	<47E716E4.7010806@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <004a01c88d8a$fee171d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Glenn Merrell wrote:
>  It
> appears they may have been Badge Engineered "for" one or two Vanguard
> models to carry a Vanguard badge?

Eee, ecky thump! I've always referred to my 2.5PI as a Vanguard - because it is. No question! The 
largest and most powerful saloon car made by The Standard Motor Company in 1970 - and with a 
commission plate that says Standard Motor Company,. There's nowt about Triumph on my Vanguard, 'cept 
a few 'cloned' badges on the bodywork and a plagiarised handbook in the glovebox according it the 
name of a Coventry car firm that went bust before WW2. Gotta be a Vanguard - ain't nowt else that 
large made at the Standard aftert war :)

Jonmac 

From bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk  Mon Mar 24 03:53:38 2008
From: bill at rarebits4classics.co.uk (Bill Davies)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 10:53:38 -0000
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <47E716E4.7010806@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <20080324114314.5EB6518767C@autox.team.net>

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Glenn A. Merrell [mailto:StagByTriumph at tscusa.org]
>
> But I did not go so far as to say Badge Engineered "for" who.  It
> appears they may have been Badge Engineered "for" one or two Vanguard
> models to carry a Vanguard badge?

Well as Jonmac quite rightly says, ALL post war Triumphs were really
Standards, with a less austere sounding company name. The Mk1 2000 went as
far as having the same badge as the Vanguard on it's nose. Not quite badge
engineering in the sense of what BMC was doing at the same time though. The
2000's body and chassis engineering wasn't common to another vehicle, while
the Dolomite family tree was complicated enough in it's own right, without
involving other companies,
Cheers,
Bill.

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Mar 24 06:51:03 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 09:51:03 EDT
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
Message-ID: <d35.214ba625.35190bc7@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/23/2008 6:59:27 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:

3. I've  bought new Craftsman brake line wrenches.  I plan to tighten  the
flares to 'REALLY TIGHT' (I'd guess that's 75 psi- please feel free to  give
imput on this guess)



Paul, I have no experience with stainless tubing. Your ideas are good  though 
as stainless to stainless screw threads can be problematic if they  start to 
gall, which a burr can start. You can end up having to cut the line  out.
I have replumbed both of my latest LBC projects using steel tubing. On the  
first one, I tightened the dickens out of every fitting. I had a couple of  
problems and had to replace parts where I overtightened them. I also used  
hydraulic line wrenches which are a necessity I think. On one car, I had to buy  an 
crowfoot hydraulic socket.
By the second car, I had read this suggestion:Tighten fittings  reasonably 
tight (your judgement). Assume they will leak, so there fore put  plastic etc. 
on any painted surfaces which could be damaged. Install fluid, and  look for 
leaks. Tighten only as necessary to stop leaks . I used this  techniqueon my 
second car and I liked that approach better than on my first  approach.
 
Good Luck!
Mike Moore 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com  Mon Mar 24 07:05:54 2008
From: Brian_Lanoway at standardaero.com (Lanoway, Brian)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 09:05:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR6 transmission - locating shoulder bolts - where to buy
Message-ID: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D113D@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM>

There's been quite a bit of discussion on the List over the last couple
of days on how to make or where to buy the right locating dowels or
bolts to properly locate a TR6 transmission.

You can readily buy shoulder bolts from suppliers like Fastenal with 3/8
ground shoulders and 5/16 threads for this.  The ground shoulders on
these catalogue bolts are a touch too long, but this is easily fixed by
placing a thick washer under the head of the shoulder bolts.

I am also convinced that not using these to get the proper concentric
location of all the rotating bits will result in many of the clutch and
TOB bearings we tend to encounter.  In my case, I didn't use them the
last time around - in my ignorance, I used only 5/16 bolts - and this
resulted in a flywheel pilot bushing failure that squealed just like a
failed TOB.

As a final thought , using dowel pins only with locktite won't provide
enough clamping force (apparently early TR6's suffered from this) - so
this should be avoided as well - it will result in its own special
failure (engine transmission separation).

Cheers,
Brian Lanoway
1973 TR6
Winnipeg

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 24 08:02:29 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 15:02:29 +0000
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
In-Reply-To: <d35.214ba625.35190bc7@aol.com>
References: <d35.214ba625.35190bc7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W42E52D78EA53A81E9EFE97E5FD0@phx.gbl>

Why aren't you fellows using teflon tape on your fittings?

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Test your Star IQ
http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_HMTAGMAR

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Mar 24 08:03:53 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 11:03:53 EDT
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
Message-ID: <d65.24537b15.35191cd9@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/24/2008 8:02:34 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes:

Why  aren't you fellows using teflon tape on your fittings?

Best  regards,
Tom





Tom, that sounds smart. I used teflon tape, but he's using the liquid  teflon 
plmbers lube I understand.
Mike Moore 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 24 09:19:18 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 08:19:18 -0800
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W42E52D78EA53A81E9EFE97E5FD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080324151916.DCZA21903.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> Why aren't you fellows using teflon tape on your fittings?

1) I hate 'Teflon' tape.

2) This isn't the right application for it.

Paul is talking about using teflon pipe paste as an anti-seize on stainless
steel, rather than as a sealant, which is reasonable.  (Though my preference
would be to use honest anti-seize instead of a product designed for
something else.)  However, he needs to be very careful to NOT get any paste
inside the hydraulic system, since it would contaminate the brake fluid.

But tape isn't going to help with galling or seizing, nor with sealing, it
would just be a distraction.  It's only for tapered 'pipe thread' fittings,
which are rare in braking systems (except for the brake light switch on
earlier TRs).

And even then, it has no place on a car, IMO.

Randall

From kthompson at whoi.edu  Mon Mar 24 08:28:35 2008
From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 10:28:35 -0500
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
Message-ID: <47E7C8A3.3030202@whoi.edu>

   Be very careful when using teflon tape around any type of pump or hydraulic
system, or on anything where a piece of tape can clog a small orifice. I know
that many hydraulic pump manufacturers will void a warranty where teflon tape
has been used due to this exact problem. My experience in the plumbing/heating
field has shown me that paste is a better bet than tape. As far as tightening,
or overtightening brake line fittings goes: A general rule of thumb would
be.....tighten it enough to stop a leak. You can always snug it up more, but
if it's overtightened you'll strip threads, mash the flares, or crack the
fitting. Then it's too late. And I'd be quite wary of using a dremel tool to
"polish" the flares, as there's a good chance of warping the curved fitting
and actually making more problems with the fittings. If they're new lines,
with new fittings, then they should simply go together and be done with.
Sometimes we tend to go overboard with re-inventing the wheel with this stuff.
BTW, the teflon tape should be used sparingly, and only to stop possible
galling on the threads. The metal contact on the flare fitting itself is what
keep the joint tight, not the teflon.
   Good luck,
Kevin T
'76 TR6
'59 TR3A

To: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com, dorpaul at bellsouth.net,
	triumphs at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <d65.24537b15.35191cd9 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

In a message dated 3/24/2008 8:02:34 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
tswhitez123 at hotmail.com writes:

Why  aren't you fellows using teflon tape on your fittings?

Best  regards,
Tom

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Mar 24 08:35:57 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 11:35:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Uprated front axles
In-Reply-To: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net>
References: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0803241121430.21094@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 22 Mar 2008, John Mitchell wrote:

>   I'm planning on rebuilding the front end on my TR6 and was wondering
> about A.R.E.'s uprated spindles.  The car is a street driver and I've
> never noticed any brake kick back in a turn.  Is this something I should
> include in a complete rebuild?  Thanks,  John Mitchell   76TR6

I have to data points to add to this one (somewhat behind on my e-mail, so 
apologies if the material has been covered).

1. if your spindles are perfect (and to determine this, you want to have 
them checked for cracks), then you don't need the beefy axles. However, to 
set expectations - keep in mind that we're talking 30-40 year old cars 
with parts - STRESSED PARTS - that have been through who knows how many 
stresses over that period.

2. if you ever drive on winding roads with "vigor" OR you autocross ever.

The thing with the kickback is not so much that the workaround is tough, 
as you just pump the pedal once or twice and you have the brakes back. The 
thing is that if you're not used to such action, by the time your brain 
determines "oh ya, pad kickback", you might be too far out of control (or 
past the limit) to effectively "fix" it.

Don't freak, though. Get the spindles and vertical links checked for 
cracks and the "go from there".

As some of us have found, getting the old axle stubs out to install the 
new ones can be "lots of fun", and a lot of times when you pull the vert. 
link out of the trunnion you find "other problems" on those parts too.

If I was doing a full front end restoration, I'd pull the parts and haul 
them to an automotive machinist to check for cracks and then buy what I 
need. If you pulling parts from a parts car, assume that the parts you 
pull might not be "serviceable". I have a stack of vertical links that I 
can't get apart (yet). But I live in the beneficiary region otherwise 
known as "the rust belt".

All that said, the beefy axles are really nice and you won't be sorry that 
you laid out the money for them. Once installed, and especially for a 
street car, its a part that you won't have to worry about for a long, long 
time (if ever).

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Mar 24 08:39:11 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 8:39:11 -0700
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W42E52D78EA53A81E9EFE97E5FD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080324113911.DG68L.217317.root@fepweb16>

---- tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Why aren't you fellows using teflon tape on your fittings?

I would be leery of the tape (or the pipe dope, for that matter) getting into the hydraulic system.   Chances are it'll never be a problem, but at best I'd be very careful to only put it on the threads - never on the flare part.

Admittedly I've never uses SS brake pipes, but I've been doing this for 35 years now and I've ~never~ needed to seal a brake fitting with anything other than proper installation and torque.  When I put SS braided hoses on my cars last year, I put a tiny dab of ati-sieze compound on the threads to prevent galling, but not in a way that it could get near the end of the fitting.

Jeff Scarbrough
Schmieraffe, Ga.
Spitfires and a TR6 (and VWs, and Volvos, and a Ford or two, and...)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Mar 24 08:50:23 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 15:50:23 -0000
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
References: <20080324114314.5EB6518767C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <006d01c88dc6$c7dd0190$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Bill Davies wrote:
> Well as Jonmac quite rightly says, ALL post war Triumphs were really
> Standards, with a less austere sounding company name.

Austere? Perhaps.

I quote from "Triumph Sports Cars" by WG Krause. "The company was founded on the premise that all 
parts for all cars would be interchangeable - hence the name "Standard" unquote.

I also quote from notes written by JR Davy (Standard Triumph's historian, now dead) of a 
conversation between Maudslay and his close company associate, a Mr. Craig in which Maudslay is 
recorded as having said, "I am determined Mr. Craig, that all components will be made to the highest 
possible standard. I shall therefore call my car the Standard car" unquote

It is only (perhaps) through the use/misuse of the English language in many parts of the world where 
the word *standard* (which Maudslay's thoughts might be construed to mean "oiptimum benchmark 
quality, together with his future vision, have become downgraded to mean ordinary and/or basic. It 
is also why Standard cars sold in North America were mostly badged as Triumphs - and long before the 
Standard name was finally abandoned in the UK with the Vanguard Ensign in 1963.

Jonmac 

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Mon Mar 24 09:02:34 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 10:02:34 -0600
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <20080324114314.5EB6518767C@autox.team.net>
References: <20080324114314.5EB6518767C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <47E7D09A.8040801@tscusa.org>

Bill Davies wrote:
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Glenn A. Merrell [mailto:StagByTriumph at tscusa.org]
>>
>> But I did not go so far as to say Badge Engineered "for" who.  It
>> appears they may have been Badge Engineered "for" one or two Vanguard
>> models to carry a Vanguard badge?
>>     
>
> Well as Jonmac quite rightly says, ALL post war Triumphs were really
> Standards, with a less austere sounding company name. The Mk1 2000 went as
> far as having the same badge as the Vanguard on it's nose. Not quite badge
> engineering in the sense of what BMC was doing at the same time though. The
> 2000's body and chassis engineering wasn't common to another vehicle, while
> the Dolomite family tree was complicated enough in it's own right, without
> involving other companies,
> Cheers,
> Bill.
>   
I knew there was some rebadging somewhere with the 2000 name, but did 
not know which or whom. 

How about "reskinned" TR2 and TR3 chassis used by other manufacturers?

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Mon Mar 24 10:22:24 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 13:22:24 EDT
Subject: [TR] blasting media
Message-ID: <d1b.20694c2a.35193d50@aol.com>

I know one of you guys out there runs a media blast shop. You have kindly 
advised me in the past.
IM currently running glass bead 40/60 and am very happy with the results I 
get. Speed of cleaning, finish of parts etc.
I had heard that black beauty was more health friendly to me the operator. Is 
that so? and is the grit grade going to give me the same results as IM 
getting now?
What about other types of shot?
Also it seems from the McMaster Carr info that black beauty requires a lot 
more pressure to run than glass. True?
thanks
Frank



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
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From kthompson at whoi.edu  Mon Mar 24 11:36:33 2008
From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 13:36:33 -0500
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
Message-ID: <47E7F4B1.6080701@whoi.edu>

Oops!!
  The word "tape" should have been "paste".......I musta got caught up 
with the excitement of it all...

BTW, the teflon tape should be used sparingly, and only to stop possible
galling on the threads. The metal contact on the flare fitting itself is what
keeps the joint tight, not the teflon.
   Good luck,
Kevin T
'76 TR6
'59 TR3A

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar 24 13:40:21 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 16:40:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep? GOOD IDEA?
References: <20080324113911.DG68L.217317.root@fepweb16>
Message-ID: <03d001c88def$480f94e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I think I have a good idea:

Prior to installing the Classic Tubing pre-bent stainless steel brake lines 
what about taking the brand-new fittings and flares and 'dry mounting'  them 
to a no-longer-used brake wheel cylinder (or caliper) in order to get the 
stainless flare to do a 'trial' seat?

Surely this would do no harm?

Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 

From BearTranserv at aol.com  Mon Mar 24 14:15:25 2008
From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 17:15:25 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rover
Message-ID: <bc0.2b6fd722.351973ed@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/22/2008 12:23:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time,  
mmarr at notwires.com writes:

I don't  believe the XK or XJ platform are used elsewhere within Ford, 
although I  have this vague memory that the XK and the DB7 share a common  
plaform.



Actually I thought the new (old now) T-Bird was on the XK  chasis.....
 
Robert B.  Houston
Texan in New Mexico

63 TR4

As he stared at her ample  bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg
carburetors in his vintage  Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, 
perched prominently on top of  the intake manifold, aching for experienced 
hands, the small knurled caps of the  oil dampeners begging to be inspected and 
adjusted as
described in chapter  seven of the shop manual.
Dan McKay







**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From jgillis at tcd.ie  Mon Mar 24 14:44:26 2008
From: jgillis at tcd.ie (John Gillis)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:44:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] handbrake boot
Message-ID: <FE3C9231-CE0A-4385-87F8-D4BECF76463B@tcd.ie>

Hi all and a happy easter, curious- can somebody explain the reason  
for the complicated 3 dimensional rubber boot on the TR2 handbrake  
lever?. I don't see the point of the upright part that fixes to the  
gearbox tunnel. and by way of a question I am guessing the two metal  
pieces fix on top of the rubber part?
Thanks all
John

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 24 14:53:35 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 14:53:35 -0700
Subject: [TR] blasting media
In-Reply-To: <d1b.20694c2a.35193d50@aol.com>
References: <d1b.20694c2a.35193d50@aol.com>
Message-ID: <084201c88df9$82bbfbb0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I had heard that black beauty was more health friendly to me 
> the operator. Is 
> that so?

Frank, I'm certainly no expert, but my understanding is that glass bead is
essentially equivalent to coal slag (Black Beauty) in terms of health risk.
The truly dangerous substance is sand ... the difference between glass and
sand is that glass is amorphous (meaning no crystals) and it's the fractured
crystals from the sand that can result in silicosis if they get into your
lungs.

> and is the grit grade going to give me the same 
> results as IM 
> getting now?

Again, my understanding is that the finest grade of BB is more aggressive
than glass bead and will leave a rougher surface on soft metals like
aluminum and zinc (pot metal) alloys.  What I've been told is to only use BB
on steel and iron.

> Also it seems from the McMaster Carr info that black beauty 
> requires a lot 
> more pressure to run than glass. True?

I don't believe it's so much a matter of "requiring" more pressure, only
that glass bead is typically used for more delicate work where lower
pressures are also appropriate.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 24 14:56:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 14:56:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] handbrake boot
In-Reply-To: <FE3C9231-CE0A-4385-87F8-D4BECF76463B@tcd.ie>
References: <FE3C9231-CE0A-4385-87F8-D4BECF76463B@tcd.ie>
Message-ID: <084301c88df9$e6a671a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

>  the reason  
> for the complicated 3 dimensional rubber boot on the TR2 handbrake  
> lever?. I don't see the point of the upright part that fixes to the  
> gearbox tunnel.

On cars without overdrive, it serves no purpose except to make the parts
common with cars that do have OD.  With OD, the upright part covers where
the speedo cable attaches to the overdrive.

> and by way of a question I am guessing the two metal  
> pieces fix on top of the rubber part?

That's right.

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 24 15:19:36 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 15:19:36 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <006d01c88dc6$c7dd0190$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <20080324114314.5EB6518767C@autox.team.net>
	<006d01c88dc6$c7dd0190$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <085201c88dfd$24fe7f80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> It is only (perhaps) through the use/misuse of the English 
> language in many parts of the world where 
> the word *standard* (which Maudslay's thoughts might be 
> construed to mean "oiptimum benchmark 
> quality, together with his future vision, have become 
> downgraded to mean ordinary and/or basic.

With respect to Sir Reginald, I rather doubt that "standard" by itself
really carried that connotation even in 1903.  But even if it did, the
advent of mass production (and cost control measures) has surely weakened it
to mean "the default", or "just acceptable".  After all, anything less than
"standard" would be "sub-standard", and no one would want to admit to that !

Randall

From dconnitt at fuse.net  Mon Mar 24 15:28:38 2008
From: dconnitt at fuse.net (Dave Connitt)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 18:28:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] blasting media
In-Reply-To: <d1b.20694c2a.35193d50@aol.com>
Message-ID: <PEEJLAELKFPOJKJPBHFPOEIMENAA.dconnitt@fuse.net>

Frank,
I can offer my experiences with different blast media for what it's worth.

A lot of what I have to offer is very subjective as Black Beauty vs.,
glass beads vs., aluminum oxide vs. sand..
Your application and how you are using it is important in the final
decision.
I will assume you are using some kind of blast cabinet.

The cheapest media I have found to use is Black Beauty. However, if you are
used
to the results you get with glass beads, you will be disappointed in your
results using
Black Beauty. Just my opinion Fred!! Even so, unless you are cleaning an
intake manifold
or something that will remain a "bare finish" who cares what it looks like
as long as it is
clean enough to paint or powder coat? There's that subjective thing again..

If you want to strip metal of finishes and especially rust, and especially a
ferrous metal,
go with the aluminum oxide. Aluminum oxide is probably the most expensive
media but you get
what you pay for in speed of removal. If you are used to using glass beads
to strip rust,
you will be pleasantly surprised as to how fast aluminum oxide strips rust.
You can get away with a smaller compressor using aluminum oxide as it will
take less time to
clean that part using Aluminum Oxide.

Sand is probably cheaper than Black Beauty but is by far the most dangerous
due to the
health risks. In my humble opinion, it isn't worth considering at all. If
you are using an
open air blast method, definitely don't use sand. Not just for your own
health but everyone around
the area you are blasting in.

If you are cleaning aluminum castings, you just can't beat glass beads.
Hands down, it is the best.

Hope this helps,
Dave Connitt
'67 TR4A

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Mar 24 16:59:09 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 18:59:09 -0500
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
In-Reply-To: <47E7F4B1.6080701@whoi.edu>
References: <47E7F4B1.6080701@whoi.edu>
Message-ID: <200803241859.09455.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

I have never used anything on brake but that red grease or fluid for the 
threads.

The only leaks I have ever seen is in the MC  or slave when a seal goes, a 
fitting was not tight enouth, foreign material present or cross threading.

Isnt the design of the flange to seal itself once tightened?

2 Triumph cars and 2 Triumph bikes with no brake / clutch leaks, drips or 
errors.

Bob

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Mar 24 17:19:51 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 00:19:51 -0000
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
References: <20080324114314.5EB6518767C@autox.team.net><006d01c88dc6$c7dd0190$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<085201c88dfd$24fe7f80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <013801c88e0d$f1cef390$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Randall Young wrote
> With respect to Sir Reginald, I rather doubt that "standard" by itself
> really carried that connotation even in 1903.

Maybe, maybe not. Who knows? It was more than 100 years ago. Interesting though that he selected the 
British Union Flag as the company's emblem, together with a Roman Centurion - both which in their 
own way in the UK have long been regarded as symbols of excellence and in his day were 
unquestionable pinnacles.

>But even if it did, the
> advent of mass production (and cost control measures) has surely weakened it
> to mean "the default", or "just acceptable".  After all, anything less than
> "standard" would be "sub-standard", and no one would want to admit to that !

I'd agree there. In the late 1950's The Standard Motor Company made quite a lot of sub-standard 
stuff - mostly Heralds (sorry Mr. Mace). The senior management was collectively considered by 
popular opinion to be of a similar vein and there were many other issues of a sub-standard nature in 
terms of the imprudent use of the firm's finances, that eventually caused it to hit a very 
unforgiving wall :)

Jonmac 

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Mon Mar 24 18:03:00 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:03:00 -0400
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep? GOOD IDEA?
References: <20080324113911.DG68L.217317.root@fepweb16>
	<03d001c88def$480f94e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
	<003b01c88dff$19e90e60$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
Message-ID: <03e901c88e13$f97227b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I guess I will not be doing a 'trial' installation of stainless steel brake 
lines since others think it's a bad idea.

The reason I suggested it was that it seemed 'a given' that SS brake lines 
will leak.  I guess that being an amatuer, I bought this : hook, line and 
sinker?  I am now thinking the list was kidding.

Please be careful out there, some of us are apt to believe you!

Thanks, Paul 

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Mon Mar 24 18:09:02 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:09:02 EDT
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep? GOOD IDEA?
Message-ID: <c6e.20296b4a.3519aaae@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/24/2008 6:05:46 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
dorpaul at bellsouth.net writes:

I guess  I will not be doing a 'trial' installation of stainless steel brake 
lines  since others think it's a bad idea.

The reason I suggested it was that  it seemed 'a given' that SS brake lines 
will leak.  I guess that  being an amatuer, I bought this : hook, line and 
sinker?  I am now  thinking the list was kidding.

Please be careful out there, some of us  are apt to believe you!

Thanks, Paul 



My friends on the Jag lis seem to have a lot of problems with leaky  
stainless steel systems. 
Mike Moore 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
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From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Mon Mar 24 18:13:17 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 18:13:17 -0700
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep?
In-Reply-To: <200803241859.09455.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <47E7F4B1.6080701@whoi.edu>
	<200803241859.09455.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <08e201c88e15$68ca87a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Isnt the design of the flange to seal itself once tightened?

Yes !  No sealant required, nor should any be used.

Don't forget that the brake system sees unreasonably high pressure, only
when you need it the most (ie when your life depends on it).  This is no
place to be covering up improper fits with goop.

The wisdom of using stainless steel (not DOT approved ?) hard lines is a
different question.  Harder to seal, more apt to gall, weaker, not nearly as
"impervious" to rust as many people seem to believe ... stainless is not one
of my favorite materials.  

I used to work in a fertilizer plant where rusty, leaking stainless steel
was a common sight.

Randall

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Mar 24 18:14:06 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:14:06 -0400
Subject: [TR] Locating Dowel Part#
Message-ID: <000901c88e15$87184030$210110ac@bobspc>

Thanks for all the responses about transmission locating dowels and their
importance. Herman seconded everything you told me and he's sending me a few
that he buys from McMaster.com. It's part number 98381A624 and they're
called Dowel Pins. The downside is you have to buy a box of 25 for $8.95.
The upside is you'll have a lifetime supply.

Thanks again.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From CarlSereda at aol.com  Mon Mar 24 18:32:13 2008
From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:32:13 EDT
Subject: [TR] quality throw-out bearing?
Message-ID: <d23.1f40396c.3519b01d@aol.com>

Thanks Randall. F-M TOBearing looked good in the pic (for what that's worth!)
- I paid $9.95 + $6.15 shipping for it today at a buy-it-now eBay auction.
Regards,
Carl
'63 TR4 since '74

IMO, Federal-Mogul will work just fine.  They are a respected bearing maker;
plus due to several minor design changes, the TR2-4 are not nearly as picky
about TOB as the TR4A-6 are.

> Would Federal-Mogul be a top quality nos bearing for a TR2-4
> clutch throw-out?
**************
Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch
the video on AOL Home.

(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom0003
0000000001)

From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com  Mon Mar 24 18:58:17 2008
From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:58:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
In-Reply-To: <013801c88e0d$f1cef390$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <20080324114314.5EB6518767C@autox.team.net><006d01c88dc6$c7dd0190$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<085201c88dfd$24fe7f80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> 
	<013801c88e0d$f1cef390$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W3079A37F18932818EF0D13A5FC0@phx.gbl>

> Maybe, maybe not. Who knows? It was more than 100 years ago. Interesting
though that he selected the > British Union Flag as the company's emblem,
together with a Roman Centurion - both which in their > own way in the UK have
long been regarded as symbols of excellence and in his day were >
unquestionable pinnacles.


Standard is also a synonym for flag.

John H.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 24 18:54:53 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 20:54:53 -0500
Subject: [TR] SS brake prep? - now bad connections at fuel pump
References: <20080324113911.DG68L.217317.root@fepweb16><03d001c88def$480f94e0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71><003b01c88dff$19e90e60$6601a8c0@mikeslaptop>
	<03e901c88e13$f97227b0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <003601c88e1b$3a72ea90$0202fea9@garage.local>

i'm going to momentarily hijack this thread . . .

i've got leaks at the fuel pump connections.  old car, sat for a decade or 
so.  swapped out fuel pumps because i thought at first the pump was leaking.

cut off the ferrules and redo the ends?  the ferrules are in good shape. 

From flashtr3 at cox.net  Mon Mar 24 19:06:55 2008
From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 19:06:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood Grommetts
Message-ID: <003a01c88e1c$e69ff410$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>

I heard that there was a way of using fasteners to install the aluminum hood
grommets (Dzus fastener). What type & size would be needed? Or does someone
have a tip installing these guys another way?
Thanks,
Ibsen

From ZoboHerald at aol.com  Mon Mar 24 19:17:05 2008
From: ZoboHerald at aol.com (ZoboHerald at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 22:17:05 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rover -  back to Triumphs
Message-ID: <cca.2a655dd1.3519baa1@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/24/2008 7:20:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
standardtriumph at btinternet.com writes:

The  Standard Motor Company made quite a lot of sub-standard 
stuff - mostly  Heralds (sorry Mr. Mace).


I know what you're saying, John, but I don't quite agree with you on  the 
Heralds. Yes, there were any number of quality control problems in assembly,  and 
even some engineering-related issues...from a relatively small company --  
with some questionable management issues and some serious financial issues --  
trying to rush a very innovative product to the market. To their credit,  most 
of these issues were dealt with rather quickly, resulting in a car that did  
an awful lot of good for "The Standard"!  

--Andy   Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not  so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with   wings.
-- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus   (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6)  and
Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: _http://triumph-herald.us_ 
(http://triumph-herald.us/) 




**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
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From bdischer at blakedischer.com  Mon Mar 24 20:06:29 2008
From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 23:06:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] 3 Locations for America's British Reliability Run
Message-ID: <90701F93-E104-4BB2-B32C-A303380A69F7@blakedischer.com>

America's British Reliability Run Includes Three Separate Runs for 2008
In it's sixth year, America's British Reliability Run is a  
challenging, but fun, driving event that so far has raised more than  
$130,000 for worthy children's charities. This year, three separate  
800-mile runs on the same weekend, September 27-28, 2008, will benefit  
three highly-rated, local childrens' charities. One run starts in  
Michigan, another in Pennsylvania, and yet another in Alabama! Each  
two-person team pays their own expenses out-of-pocket and has a goal  
of raising $500 for the charity.
Up to 40 British cars of any marque or vintage may participate in each  
run. Even if you can't participate in the run, please support this  
effort by making a donation of any size. Again, teams pay their own  
expenses, so 100% of your donation goes to the charity, please help us  
increase our total! To register your car, donate, or read more about  
the run, visit http://www.abrr.org.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 25 06:27:10 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 13:27:10 +0000
Subject: [TR] Teflon tape.
In-Reply-To: <20080324151916.DCZA21903.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <BAY110-W42E52D78EA53A81E9EFE97E5FD0@phx.gbl>
	<20080324151916.DCZA21903.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W35BB3374F2E7639891A343E5FC0@phx.gbl>

All I can say about it is that a friend, who is a professional machinist, and
that pit crewed for Sterling Marlin told me to use teflon tape on the brake
fittings of my stock car.

Best regards,
Tom



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From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 25 06:49:17 2008
From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 06:49:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] Teflon tape.
In-Reply-To: <BAY110-W35BB3374F2E7639891A343E5FC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <796014.17817.qm@web81406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have been told by those who should know to only use
Teflon tape on pipe threads and then be very careful
to leave several threads on the small end unwrapped to
prevent pieces from entering the pipe.
  My experience has taught me to not use Teflon tape
in any place where a small piece would cause a
failure, such as hydraulic systems or steam systems. A
very small piece in a check valve will cause the valve
to leak. If you do use it, NEVER take the joint apart
without cleaning ALL tape off of it. Use new tape when
reassembling.

John Young

--- tom white <tswhitez123 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> All I can say about it is that a friend, who is a
> professional machinist, and
> that pit crewed for Sterling Marlin told me to use
> teflon tape on the brake
> fittings of my stock car.
> 
> Best regards,
> Tom
> 
> 
> 
>
_________________________________________________________________
> In a rush?  Get real-time answers with Windows Live
> Messenger.
>
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_
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> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph
> Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 25 07:00:26 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 14:00:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 Hood Grommetts
In-Reply-To: <003a01c88e1c$e69ff410$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
References: <003a01c88e1c$e69ff410$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W36D91D02E5664B3805654BE5FC0@phx.gbl>

TRF sells a tool for installing these gromets.  It is basically a bolt with a
beveled collar on it.

Best regards,
Tom



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From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com  Tue Mar 25 08:12:27 2008
From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 11:12:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] Stainless Brake Lines
Message-ID: <c0c.2fdf159a.351a705b@aol.com>

Maybe I'm just lucky.   My GT6 has new stainless lines and we have installed 
them on several customer cars, too.   Never had a problem with leaks - 
anywhere, just a bit of tweaking to get them fitted.   Classic Tube seems to make a 
quality product and I'm a big fan.   Sorry to hear that I'm the exception.
George Haynes


**************
Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the 
video on AOL Home.
      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Mar 25 09:01:04 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:01:04 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stainless Brake Lines
In-Reply-To: <c0c.2fdf159a.351a705b@aol.com>
References: <c0c.2fdf159a.351a705b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47E921C0.50308@snet.net>

I also had great luck with my set of brake lines from classic tube.  
They were perfect in length and only needed small amounts of tweaking.  
John Mitchell  76 TR6

GHaynesTR4 at aol.com wrote:
> Maybe I'm just lucky.   My GT6 has new stainless lines and we have installed 
> them on several customer cars, too.   Never had a problem with leaks - 
> anywhere, just a bit of tweaking to get them fitted.   Classic Tube seems to make a 
> quality product and I'm a big fan.   Sorry to hear that I'm the exception.
> George Haynes

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Mar 25 09:03:29 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:03:29 -0400
Subject: [TR] Paint on Block Question
Message-ID: <001a01c88e91$c6192d40$210110ac@bobspc>

Yesterday I painted the engine block and got a little over spray on the
Manifold mating surface on the block. All the intake & exhaust ports were
blocked off but some spray did get on that part of the block. In hindsight
(being 20/20) I should have put the old manifold gasket on the engine to
cover that area. My question is: Will the paint interfere with the sealing
of the manifold gasket and if so, what's the best way to clean it up? Paint
stripper? Acetone? Belt sander (just kidding).

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Tue Mar 25 09:08:04 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 09:08:04 -0700
Subject: [TR] Paint on Block Question
In-Reply-To: <001a01c88e91$c6192d40$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <001a01c88e91$c6192d40$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <657E1C639437438394B8832B94086B7E@GeoPC>

If you have a can of Carb Cleaner (Gumout or generic) just spray a bit on a 
paper towel and then wipe the paint off.   Almost any good solvent will do 
but this stuff is pretty handy for such work.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 9:03 AM
Subject: [TR] Paint on Block Question


> Yesterday I painted the engine block and got a little over spray on the
> Manifold mating surface on the block. 

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Tue Mar 25 10:12:26 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 13:12:26 -0400
Subject: [TR] Stainless Brake Lines
References: <c0c.2fdf159a.351a705b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <007b01c88e9b$66aa96f0$532f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Never a problem, good product, good car people to deal with.  "FT"
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <GHaynesTR4 at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 11:12 AM
Subject: [TR] Stainless Brake Lines


> Maybe I'm just lucky.   My GT6 has new stainless lines and we have 
> installed
> them on several customer cars, too.   Never had a problem with leaks -
> anywhere, just a bit of tweaking to get them fitted.   Classic Tube seems 
> to make a
> quality product and I'm a big fan.   Sorry to hear that I'm the exception.
> George Haynes
>
>
> **************
> Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the
> video on AOL Home.
>
> (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Tue Mar 25 16:13:09 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 23:13:09 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
Message-ID: <032520082313.12895.47E98705000E4ED70000325F2207300793CE019D0D090100@comcast.net>

List,

Newly rebuilt TR6 engine shows lack of rocker oiling. Several rockers show no oil. Others minimal. No oil spraying around the engine compartment with the rocker cover removed and the engine running at 1500 rpm. Oil pressure is 75 psi.

Rocker assembly beautifully rebuilt by California outfit. I disassembled it and checked the work. 

What could be restricting flow? How do I troubleshoot and fix short of dismantling the entire engine?

Thoughts?

TIA,

Ed Woods

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 25 16:41:45 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 16:41:45 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <032520082313.12895.47E98705000E4ED70000325F2207300793CE019D0D090100@comcast.net>
References: <032520082313.12895.47E98705000E4ED70000325F2207300793CE019D0D090100@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0b7901c88ed1$c97c8870$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> What could be restricting flow? How do I troubleshoot and fix 
> short of dismantling the entire engine?

Any chance you (or someone) has had cam bearing inserts added ?  On the
TR2-4 with the factory inserts, it's a common mistake to install the rear
insert in the wrong position, which will block oil flow to the head.  I
assume the same issue applies when a TR6 is bored for inserts.

Have you tried blowing into the hole in the rear pedestal ?

There is a plug on the back of the head that you can remove and try forcing
oil (or similar) into, it should show up in the rocker shaft.  If not,
remove the shaft and try again.  If it now squirts out the hole in the head,
then the rocker shaft must be blocked somehow.

If forcing oil into the hole oils the rocker shaft, then the problem must be
inside the engine.  You can try poking a wire into the hole to try to open
the lateral drilling through the head, but otherwise I'm afraid the head has
to come off.

Or, you could add the external oil feed (which injects oil under full
pressure into that hole).   I'd probably try that again, even though it
eventually cost me a broken piston last time I tried it.

Randall

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Tue Mar 25 18:25:06 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 19:25:06 -0600
Subject: [TR] Denver area happenings
In-Reply-To: <003401c88955$f10262b0$5918e247@DCS78M81>
References: <003401c88955$f10262b0$5918e247@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <47E9A5F2.7090208@tscusa.org>

Tom,

    When you and Janet get in the area, give me a call.  If I am in town 
we would love to get together

Glenn Merrell
TSC USA Chairman

THOMAS FANSHER wrote:
> Janet and I will be in Denver early April 10,11 and 12 for a business meeting
> - anything Triumph related going on?
> TIA
> Tom
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Tue Mar 25 19:12:26 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 20:12:26 -0600
Subject: [TR] Stainless Brake Lines
In-Reply-To: <47E921C0.50308@snet.net>
References: <c0c.2fdf159a.351a705b@aol.com> <47E921C0.50308@snet.net>
Message-ID: <47E9B10A.9000504@tscusa.org>

John Mitchell wrote:
> I also had great luck with my set of brake lines from classic tube.  
> They were perfect in length and only needed small amounts of tweaking.  
> John Mitchell  76 TR6
>
> GHaynesTR4 at aol.com wrote:
>   
>> Maybe I'm just lucky.   My GT6 has new stainless lines and we have installed 
>> them on several customer cars, too.   Never had a problem with leaks - 
>> anywhere, just a bit of tweaking to get them fitted.   Classic Tube seems to make a 
>> quality product and I'm a big fan.   Sorry to hear that I'm the exception.
>> George Haynes
>>     
>
>   
Hey, I have them installed too, love them! No luck about it, they are a 
quality product.   All they took was a bit of extra tightening 
initially.  We recommend Classic Tube to our club members.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Tue Mar 25 21:14:27 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 20:14:27 -0800
Subject: [TR] FW: Triumph Stuff for sale
Message-ID: <20080326031425.DPNV21903.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

I've been asked to pass this information along.  If you are interested,
please respond directly to Doug Flagg at dwflagg at juno.com.

NFI, etc.
Randall

----- Original Message -----
From: "Douglas W Flagg" <dwflagg at juno.com <mailto:dwflagg at juno.com> >
To: <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Triumph Stuff


In case any of you out there also have a TR, I have an NOS clutch release
bearing (QH) for a TR4/TR250 '65 - '68 or TR6 '69 - '76. Also, have a
like new Lucas 54033230/31869A TR4 wiper switch. Please contact me off
the list if you are interested. Thanks.

Doug

From douglashansen at yahoo.com  Tue Mar 25 20:15:05 2008
From: douglashansen at yahoo.com (Spitfire4)
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 20:15:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
Message-ID: <763994.18391.qm@web52207.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

did you install the head gskt upside down?
 
 
Douglas A. Hansen
www.1147cc.com
 



----- Original Message ----
From: "fogbro1 at comcast.net" <fogbro1 at comcast.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:13:09 PM
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling

List,

Newly rebuilt TR6 engine shows lack of rocker oiling. Several rockers show no oil. Others minimal. No oil spraying around the engine compartment with the rocker cover removed and the engine running at 1500 rpm. Oil pressure is 75 psi.

Rocker assembly beautifully rebuilt by California outfit. I disassembled it and checked the work. 

What could be restricting flow? How do I troubleshoot and fix short of dismantling the entire engine?

Thoughts?

TIA,

Ed Woods
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as douglashansen at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive


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From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Tue Mar 25 21:05:16 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 00:05:16 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <763994.18391.qm@web52207.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <763994.18391.qm@web52207.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6948A1B9-9B12-4E18-8B86-211C11293C6B@mindspring.com>

If the lack of oiling is only at the top of the engine then it could  
be blocked holes in the rocker itself.  I've seen rocker shafts that  
had been hardened that had the holes blocked with nitride.


Ashford Little
GTA Director
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Tue Mar 25 21:05:17 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 00:05:17 -0400
Subject: [TR] Master Cylinder adapters needed
Message-ID: <042901c88ef6$9adfdb00$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

I bought two new County Brand MCs  in possibly a misquided effort to save
moola.  To woorsen things, I took off both adapters from both MC's, and hid
them from myself. (Do others do this?)  I've written the place that I bought
these two new County MCs and asked if he could sell me new adapters, but he
said "no".
    As you may know, I've ordered new SS brake lines from Classic Tube.  (gee,
I didn't think to ask them if they could help? does anyone think that might
help?)
    Of course, the two adapters from both MCs yield a total of four adapters
in all.  Two of them 'adapt' the line to the reservoir (I think 3/8-24).  The
other two 'adapt' the long brake line down to the 5-way or it's RPV valve, and
also to the clutch slave cylinder (I think the threads on those are 7/16-20).
Really, I am unaware of why these 'adapters' are necessary, but I assume their
necessary to accept the correct flare (double-flare?).  Each adapter only
stood an inch or two and was screwed into the Master Cylinder.  I am unsure if
the original Girling Brand Master Cylinders ever required 'adapters'.
    Does anyone have 4 of these things laying around?  Or possibly know their
size so that I might order them from somewhere?  Where?  Oh yeah, I've also
taken off (and proably lost) my 5-way's RPV valve and I've recently learned it
should be reused. Maybe just it's shell reused?  Maybe you'd like to sell me
these things, that's ok too.

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3a

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Mar 26 05:04:34 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:04:34 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Chassis available in Iowa.....Roller
Message-ID: <d5e.25e84ca7.351b95d2@cs.com>

List, 

I have been supporting a friend in Forest City, Iowa on a TR3A build.  His 
tub was shot so I got a tub and chassis for him.

The tub was excellent and he used it. The chassis was better than what he 
had, but was too far into restoration/build to turn back.

Now the very nice chassis (no rust) is available for someone else to use. If 
someone needs one for a project...likely enough parts left over to recover 
investment.

Delivery may be considered.......

NFI in Chassis

Contact       N197tr4 at cs.com

Thanks,

Joe A   </HTML>

From ols at bcdef.net  Wed Mar 26 05:47:32 2008
From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:47:32 -0400
Subject: [TR] battery recommendations
Message-ID: <p06240810c40ff56eb2f0@[192.168.123.186]>

List!

What is the consensus for a new battery for my MK1 GT6? I obviously 
want something that fits properly without having to change/extend 
cables, but also want something that will last, will start the car 
when it hasn't been running for a while without having to connect it 
to a charger, and won't look stupid in the engine compartment.

Suggestions appreciated.

TIA

Alex
-- 
1958 TR3A TS33884L
1968 GT6 MK 1 KC10303
1976 TR6 CF51981U

From kentshrack at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 26 06:38:09 2008
From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 06:38:09 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
Message-ID: <350459.22654.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

My wife is having difficulty in shifting her TR3 into first gear at a stop.  I have worked with her on letting the clutch out slightly etc, but it's like it just will not slide into gear for her.  I don't have as much trouble, but it is difficult at times.  It is a non-syncro overdrive.  Before installing it I put in bearings, seals and syncro's, but did nothing to the top cover or shifter slides.  From the wisdom of the list, Is the top cover the best place to start?  Clean shafts, new seals, and shift shaft lubrication?  What is the recommended lubricant that will stay without attracting too much dirt?   Any help is ALWAYS appreciated
   
  THANKS
   
  Kent Shrack TS78563 o

       
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.

From zoboherald at aol.com  Wed Mar 26 06:44:21 2008
From: zoboherald at aol.com (zoboherald at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 09:44:21 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
In-Reply-To: <350459.22654.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <350459.22654.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CA5D5EA1918D31-11BC-13AE@WEBMAIL-MC12.sysops.aol.com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Kent Shrack <kentshrack at yahoo.com>

My wife is having difficulty in shifting her TR3 into first gear at a 
stop.  I
have worked with her on letting the clutch out slightly etc, but it's 
like it
just will not slide into gear for her.  I don't have as much trouble, 
but it is
difficult at times.  It is a non-syncro overdrive....

==AM==
For at least a short-term solution, try (with clutch in, of course ;-) 
) briefly pulling the gear lever towards 2nd and then go for 1st.

--Andy  Mace

*Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet?
*Man: Well, no ... It's not so  much of a jet, it's more your, er, 
Triumph Herald engine with  wings.
 -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus  (22)

Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph 
Herald Database at its new URL: <http://triumph-herald.us>

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Wed Mar 26 06:54:30 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 09:54:30 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
Message-ID: <ceb.2ea7f881.351baf96@aol.com>

Kent,
 
Back in the late '60s when I bought my first TR (a well used and abused '58  
TR3A), a wise old gent told me to always shift briefly into 2nd gear first  
before shifting into 1st gear after stopping.  It always worked for me on  my 
TR's without syncro and I still do it today in my TR6 and occasionally shift  
into 2nd with my 5 speed (all syncro) truck....it's really not necessary on  
syncro boxes but I do it anyway:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 3/26/2008 6:38:57 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
kentshrack at yahoo.com writes:

It is a  non-syncro overdrive




**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
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From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Wed Mar 26 06:59:06 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 06:59:06 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
In-Reply-To: <350459.22654.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <350459.22654.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8492710ABE354384B32152336CD0D8E1@GeoPC>

I'll be interested in the answers on this as I, too, have this problem.

Yes, a shift into 2nd, then into 1st is standard procedure for me (to stop 
the first motion shaft I guess) but still it is sometimes real reluctant to 
slip into 1st.

What you say about letting the clutch out slightly (and feeling for the spot 
where it will go into 1st) often works but naturally this has to occur in 
that nanosceond after the light turns green and the Ford Expedition behind 
you is wanting to get moving NOW.

I use Redline in the gearbox (non-OD) if that is relevant.  Up till now I 
just accpeted it as something I can live with but I have to admit it seems 
to be worse the last couple of years so I'm willing to consider anything 
that will help.

Geo


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kent Shrack" <kentshrack at yahoo.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 6:38 AM
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear


> My wife is having difficulty in shifting her TR3 into first gear at a 
> stop.  I have worked with her on letting the clutch out slightly etc, but 
> it's like it just will not slide into gear for her... 

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Mar 26 07:33:31 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:33:31 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
In-Reply-To: <ceb.2ea7f881.351baf96@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47EA267B.2639.1E8EAD49@localhost>

On 26 Mar 2008 at 9:54, Chip19474 at aol.com wrote:

> a wise old gent told me to always shift briefly into 2nd gear
> first before shifting into 1st gear after stopping.

Of course that works by letting the 2nd gear synchro slow down the 
gearbox innards to match the stationary driveshaft.  But there is 
another possible cause.  At least on my GT6 the ultimate non-spinning 
status sometimes leaves the shafts in a position such that the dogs 
for 1st will not mesh easily.  Naturally I discover this only after a 
traffic light has turned green.  Most of the time putting it into 2nd 
does not help, nor does 3rd or 4th.  Putting it into 2nd and letting 
the clutch out a bit helps some by getting the car moving slightly.  
Mostly I'm in a panic by then as cars behind me start to lean on 
their horns and take their fingers out of their holsters.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From fpgowash at cox.net  Wed Mar 26 07:34:27 2008
From: fpgowash at cox.net (Francis P. Gowash)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:34:27 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
In-Reply-To: <350459.22654.qm@web57808.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <KOEBIEMGGENBNPGPFJKNGENPCBAA.fpgowash@cox.net>

Had similar problem and after fiddling with adjustments found that replacing
slave cylinder corrected shifting problem.

Fran
CT
58 TR3A

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+fpgowash=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+fpgowash=cox.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Kent Shrack
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:38 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear


My wife is having difficulty in shifting her TR3 into first gear at a stop.
I have worked with her on letting the clutch out slightly etc, but it's like
it just will not slide into gear for her.  I don't have as much trouble, but
it is difficult at times.  It is a non-syncro overdrive.  Before installing
it I put in bearings, seals and syncro's, but did nothing to the top cover
or shifter slides.  From the wisdom of the list, Is the top cover the best
place to start?  Clean shafts, new seals, and shift shaft lubrication?  What
is the recommended lubricant that will stay without attracting too much
dirt?   Any help is ALWAYS appreciated

  THANKS

  Kent Shrack TS78563 o


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From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com  Wed Mar 26 07:52:30 2008
From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 07:52:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6302.1206545659.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00f401c88f51$044f7be0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>

I have terrible rocker noise and believe it to be lack of oil north of the
valves too, and was considering adding the external oil line that is so
commonly discussed. Then I read Randall's parting comments "I'd probably try
that again, even though it eventually cost me a broken piston last time I
tried it." ACK! Randall, you should be a novelist with cliffhangers like
that! Can you elaborate just a bit???

Is there anyone out there that HAS added this external oiler successfully
and has cured top end issues??

Brian
67 TR4a


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 16:41:45 -0700
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <0b7901c88ed1$c97c8870$6a5636cc at jdnet.deere.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

> What could be restricting flow? How do I troubleshoot and fix 
> short of dismantling the entire engine?

Any chance you (or someone) has had cam bearing inserts added ?  On the
TR2-4 with the factory inserts, it's a common mistake to install the rear
insert in the wrong position, which will block oil flow to the head.  I
assume the same issue applies when a TR6 is bored for inserts.

Have you tried blowing into the hole in the rear pedestal ?

There is a plug on the back of the head that you can remove and try forcing
oil (or similar) into, it should show up in the rocker shaft.  If not,
remove the shaft and try again.  If it now squirts out the hole in the head,
then the rocker shaft must be blocked somehow.

If forcing oil into the hole oils the rocker shaft, then the problem must be
inside the engine.  You can try poking a wire into the hole to try to open
the lateral drilling through the head, but otherwise I'm afraid the head has
to come off.

Or, you could add the external oil feed (which injects oil under full
pressure into that hole).   I'd probably try that again, even though it
eventually cost me a broken piston last time I tried it.

Randall

From thenicholls at verizon.net  Wed Mar 26 07:54:08 2008
From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 09:54:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
Message-ID: <17051509.768741206543248227.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net>

I had the same experience as Fran, when my master started leaking inside the car, when master and slave were replaced, it went away.

Craig 
1972 Triumph TR6


From: "Francis P. Gowash" <fpgowash at cox.net>
Date: 2008/03/26 Wed AM 09:34:27 CDT
To: Kent Shrack <kentshrack at yahoo.com>, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear

Had similar problem and after fiddling with adjustments found that replacing
slave cylinder corrected shifting problem.

Fran
CT
58 TR3A

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+fpgowash=cox.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+fpgowash=cox.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
Kent Shrack
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 9:38 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear


My wife is having difficulty in shifting her TR3 into first gear at a stop.
I have worked with her on letting the clutch out slightly etc, but it's like
it just will not slide into gear for her.  I don't have as much trouble, but
it is difficult at times.  It is a non-syncro overdrive.  Before installing
it I put in bearings, seals and syncro's, but did nothing to the top cover
or shifter slides.  From the wisdom of the list, Is the top cover the best
place to start?  Clean shafts, new seals, and shift shaft lubrication?  What
is the recommended lubricant that will stay without attracting too much
dirt?   Any help is ALWAYS appreciated

  THANKS

  Kent Shrack TS78563 o


---------------------------------
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now.
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Mar 26 07:58:56 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:58:56 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A Chassis in Iowa Sold!
Message-ID: <d1f.1f6c2b4c.351bbeb0@cs.com>

Thanks!   Chassis sold to Triumph friend in Minnesota.

Very good project chassis.......went fast.

Joe A   </HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 26 09:42:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 08:42:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <00f401c88f51$044f7be0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <20080326154242.JHSU10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>

> Then I read 
> Randall's parting comments "I'd probably try that again, even 
> though it eventually cost me a broken piston last time I 
> tried it." ACK! Randall, you should be a novelist with 
> cliffhangers like that! Can you elaborate just a bit???

Apologies, Brian, thought I'd told this story enough.  Years ago, I bought a
56 TR3 sight-unseen, just to get the overdrive.  When time came to swap the
OD into my 59, I swapped the engine as well, since it seemed healthier.  But
I soon discovered there was no oil flow to the rocker shaft; apparently the
rear cam bearing had been installed wrong.  So I installed the external oil
feed.

This put HUGE amounts of oil into the rocker shaft; so much pressure that it
literally sprayed oil all over the underside of the hood the first time I
started the engine.  Even with the cover on, it leaked all over (including
out the filler vents and past the hold-down nuts).  Then of course I
discovered that the valve guides were well worn, and now they sucked lots
and lots of oil ... like driving a mosquito fogger !  I literally got cited
for excess smoke.  Tried installing a restriction to the flow, but never
could get it down to original levels.

So, yet another Band-Aid, I installed intake valve seals.  Worked well for
awhile, but somehow one of the seals came apart, resulting in only that
cylinder burning oil.  

Apparently, the excess oil was causing spark knock under cruise conditions
(oil has a very negative effect on octane) but I didn't realize it (couldn't
hear the knock over the wind and general mechanical noise) until the
cylinder quit running.  When I pulled it apart, I found that the piston
lands had been broken away from the piston by the knocking.

Coda :

Still didn't have time or money for a proper rebuild, so I threw the bypass
away, got the head done (with new guides) and ran a drill down through the
passage into the rear cam bearing.  With every intention of only driving
that short block for a year, until I could accumulate enough money to
rebuild the original engine.  Never did happen; that 56 short block is still
in the car today.

No, I most emphatically do NOT recommend that anyone else fix their
improperly installed bearing by drilling through it !  I got away with it
once, only because I didn't care if it ruined the rest of the motor ...
likely I wouldn't be so lucky a second time.

Randall

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Mar 26 08:44:20 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 15:44:20 -0000
Subject: [TR] battery recommendations
References: <p06240810c40ff56eb2f0@[192.168.123.186]>
Message-ID: <028c01c88f58$42192fa0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Alex

I've usually measured my battery dimensions and then set off for the nearest farm store and bought 
the closest size I could to the one I was about to throw out. Tractor batteries usually have a lot 
more amps for their size and this is quite handy for cranking reluctant Triumph engines (RTE)
RTE's and small diesels have quite a lot in common in terms of wanting dependable cranking power :)

Jonmac 

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Mar 26 09:02:32 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:02:32 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6301.1206545659.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6301.1206545659.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <66471BD0-A481-429D-9041-384003566C3C@telus.net>

Ed
Most likely it is as Randall has described, blocked at the camshaft  
bearing.  Simple solution is the external route. To avoid over oiling  
the head, install a tap in the line. A club member had a similar  
problem before the big three offered a kit. We made one with a brake  
line from NAPA, and a small tap from the plumbing store. It all just  
screwed together. We did have to install a two way adaptor into  
another galley plug for the idiot light sender and the oil pressure  
gauge as the  new line used the galley feed for one of these.
On 26-Mar-08, at 9:34 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Or, you could add the external oil feed (which injects oil under full
> pressure into that hole).

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Wed Mar 26 09:12:38 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 12:12:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <20080326154242.JHSU10451.mta10.adelphia.net@randall>
References: <00f401c88f51$044f7be0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <47EA3DB6.29060.1EE96BF0@localhost>

On 26 Mar 2008 at 8:42, Randall wrote:

> No, I most emphatically do NOT recommend that anyone else fix
> their improperly installed bearing by drilling through it ! 

Yeah, but what if you used, say, an industrial laser?  I saw this 
thing in a James Bond movie once that could've done that.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net  Wed Mar 26 09:21:13 2008
From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 12:21:13 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
References: <17051509.768741206543248227.JavaMail.root@vms074.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <008d01c88f5d$6987ff30$47177847@fred8kwiskhcfu>

Many years ago when I learned to drive (don't ask) I was taught to 
=="double-clutch"== when down shifting or 3rd gear back to 1st or reverse, 
still do that most of the time in my 4 sync. t/r 3, good habit to get into 
"FT"
>
>
> My wife is having difficulty in shifting her TR3 into first gear at a 
> stop.
> I have worked with her on letting the clutch out slightly etc, but it's 
> like
> it just will not slide into gear for her.  I don't have as much trouble, 
> but
> it is difficult at times.  It is a non-syncro overdrive.  Before 
> installing
> it I put in bearings, seals and syncro's, but did nothing to the top cover
> or shifter slides.  From the wisdom of the list, Is the top cover the best
> place to start?  Clean shafts, new seals, and shift shaft lubrication? 
> What
> is the recommended lubricant that will stay without attracting too much
> dirt?   Any help is ALWAYS appreciated
>
>  THANKS
>
>  Kent Shrack TS78563 o
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it
> now.
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as fpgowash at cox.net
>
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> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
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>
>
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From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Mar 26 09:50:56 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:50:56 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
Message-ID: <C4DCBC24-B73C-41FA-B519-7EBF8D1ECE74@telus.net>

The engine builder in our case, bored and installed a rear cam  
bearing. Moral? Do not take a Triumph engine to a chevy shop.


But there is no rear cam bearing (shell) on a TR6. I have installed  
the external feed with no improvement. Must be a blockage somewhere.  
Or no oil flow??? Back to the garage.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 26 10:23:23 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:23:23 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <C4DCBC24-B73C-41FA-B519-7EBF8D1ECE74@telus.net>
References: <C4DCBC24-B73C-41FA-B519-7EBF8D1ECE74@telus.net>
Message-ID: <0d0701c88f66$18912260$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> The engine builder in our case, bored and installed a rear cam  
> bearing. Moral? Do not take a Triumph engine to a chevy shop.

Not necessarily a Bad Thing, Don.  Boring for bearing inserts is the only
way to save a TR6 block where the original cam bore is worn or damaged.

> But there is no rear cam bearing (shell) on a TR6. 

Which is exactly why some of them do have rear cam bearings.

Randall

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 26 10:24:44 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 17:24:44 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
Message-ID: <032620081724.17848.47EA86DC0002DAD4000045B82200750784CE019D0D090100@comcast.net>

Don and All,

Well, I installed the external oiler with no improvement. Then I removed the rocker assembly and cranked the engine. Plenty of oil coming up through the hole in the head, the oil feed hole located beneath the rear pedestal.

I am currently of the opinion that the oil is getting to the bore of the rocker shaft, but not to each rocker arm. I have once again (I've lost count) dismantled the rocker assembly and checked that the holes intended to feed each arm are clear.


Adjacent to each oil feed hole in the shaft is a small flat along which the oil is intended to travel to the each rock arm bushing. Each bushing has two oil holes, one aligned to the hole in the top of the rocker, the other aligned to the respective pushrod. There is no groove of any kind within the bushing to direct oil to the two aforementioned bushing exit holes. Oil can just as easily exit the sides of the bushing.

I have an original TR250 rocker assembly which I'm about to examine to see how the oil path(s) is on that.

Any thoughts from the List?

This is day three on this problem.

I wonder how many days like this I've spent on TR's since March 1959???

Ed Woods

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 26 10:28:20 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:28:20 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <47EA3DB6.29060.1EE96BF0@localhost>
References: <00f401c88f51$044f7be0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
	<47EA3DB6.29060.1EE96BF0@localhost>
Message-ID: <0d0801c88f66$c93ccba0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Yeah, but what if you used, say, an industrial laser?  I saw this 
> thing in a James Bond movie once that could've done that.

Well ... You go first, Jim !

Randall

From dkspence at telus.net  Wed Mar 26 10:32:04 2008
From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:32:04 -0600
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <0d0701c88f66$18912260$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <C4DCBC24-B73C-41FA-B519-7EBF8D1ECE74@telus.net>
	<0d0701c88f66$18912260$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <27E2A763-9E3F-4E2B-B501-78D0B89ECF40@telus.net>

Agreed. It's just that in this case, not knowing or caring to figure  
out the oil path in a TR engine, they blocked the oil flow to the  
head resulting in a prematurely worn out rocker assembly.
On 26-Mar-08, at 11:23 AM, Randall wrote:

>
>> The engine builder in our case, bored and installed a rear cam
>> bearing. Moral? Do not take a Triumph engine to a chevy shop.
>
> Not necessarily a Bad Thing, Don.  Boring for bearing inserts is  
> the only
> way to save a TR6 block where the original cam bore is worn or  
> damaged.
>
>> But there is no rear cam bearing (shell) on a TR6.
>
> Which is exactly why some of them do have rear cam bearings.
>
> Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 26 10:36:42 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:36:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <00f401c88f51$044f7be0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
References: <mailman.6302.1206545659.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
	<00f401c88f51$044f7be0$6401a8c0@Induninwlaptop>
Message-ID: <0d0c01c88f67$f46a4db0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I have terrible rocker noise and believe it to be lack of oil 
> north of the
> valves too, 

One other comment, Brian, I doubt lack of oil is the direct cause of your
noise.  It might be premature wear caused by lack of oil ... but as old as
these engines are, it could just as easily be normal wear; or something
broken, improper adjustment, etc.

Randall

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 26 10:41:20 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 17:41:20 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
Message-ID: <032620081741.13894.47EA8AC0000CD2D8000036462200750784CE019D0D090100@comcast.net>

All,

I just got off the phone with Blane (?) at Rocker Arm Specialist. After discussing the problem he's asked that I return the assembly for inspection even though it's been well over two years since I've had this work done. Didn't ask for an invoice number, proof of ownership, passport, birth certificate, never go defensive; just helpful. I like that in a vendor!!!!!

So it'll be on it's way shortly.

Ed Woods

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 26 10:50:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:50:00 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
In-Reply-To: <47EA267B.2639.1E8EAD49@localhost>
References: <ceb.2ea7f881.351baf96@aol.com> <47EA267B.2639.1E8EAD49@localhost>
Message-ID: <0d1301c88f69$cff66a70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Of course that works by letting the 2nd gear synchro slow down the 
> gearbox innards to match the stationary driveshaft.  But there is 
> another possible cause.  At least on my GT6 the ultimate non-spinning 
> status sometimes leaves the shafts in a position such that the dogs 
> for 1st will not mesh easily. 

In addition, I believe what happens is that the 1st gear dogs (on the
3-synchro TR2-3 box) get worn flat, making this problem much worse.  They
originally came to a fairly sharp point, meaning that a little extra effort
on the shift lever would force the gears to turn slightly and engage.  But
after 50 years of 'grinding' the gears at least occasionally, the little
points are gone and there is now a fairly large range of relative positions
where no amount of force on the shift lever will cause the gears to turn and
mesh.

My workaround was usually to repeat the process of spinning the input shaft
again (by letting out the clutch in neutral), then just barely touching 2nd
gear (with the intention of almost, but not quite, stopping the input shaft
from spinning), then hit 1st gear fairly hard.  Takes a lot of practice to
get this just right, so it will go in but won't grind (much) ... I usually
didn't get it quite right <g>

Another (less desirable, IMO) way is to let the clutch out just a little,
while still firmly pushing towards 1st gear.  If you can find that magic
spot where it just drags a little but doesn't really grab, it will turn the
input shaft just enough that the gears will slip in ... but on my car it
almost always wound up grinding the gears, making the problem even worse in
the future.

To really address the problem requires tearing the gearbox down and either
replacing the 1st gear and shift sleeve, or carefully and patiently grinding
each tooth back to a point.

Or do as I did eventually, and convert to a TR6 gearbox <G>

Randall

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 26 10:55:01 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:55:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] battery recommendations
In-Reply-To: <p06240810c40ff56eb2f0@[192.168.123.186]>
References: <p06240810c40ff56eb2f0@[192.168.123.186]>
Message-ID: <0d1701c88f6a$83b12870$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> What is the consensus for a new battery for my MK1 GT6? I obviously 
> want something that fits properly without having to change/extend 
> cables, but also want something that will last, will start the car 

Take your old battery to Wally-mart and say "I want one of these".

>  and won't look stupid in the engine compartment.

Matter of opinion I guess ... to me, a Lucas battery "looks stupid", while
anything that will reliably start the car looks smart.

Randall

From cak at dimebank.com  Wed Mar 26 11:03:30 2008
From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:03:30 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6334.1206557363.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6334.1206557363.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <47EA8FF2.5050204@dimebank.com>

TriumphTune started (perhaps a decade ago!) delivering the external 
rocker oiling line with a 'special' banjo bolt that significantly 
restricts the flow to the rockers, to address some of the over-oiling 
problems. They'll sell you this part separately; I don't know the part 
number, but they understand the description.

Another possibility to consider, though I'm not entirely certain that 
it's an issue with the 6, is that the cylinder head gasket might be put 
on incorrectly such that the oil passage between block and head is 
closed off.

Best,
chris

From davidt at opentext.com  Wed Mar 26 11:24:45 2008
From: davidt at opentext.com (David Templeton)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:24:45 -0400
Subject: [TR] OT: Jag-Rover follow-up news
Message-ID: <98554F05BF1D8C4DB36E3B8330E2A79E09B1B4CF@OTWATMX01.opentext.net>

Found this article

http://ridingtheelephant.blogs.fortune.cnn.com/2008/03/25/tata-buys-into
-trouble/

I personally hope that Tata can keep and improve the Jag & rover brands.
Who knows, maybe they see a shining light.  Or maybe Mr. Tata really
liked the Jag and decided to buy the company :-)

Now back to regularly scheduled emails......

David Templeton
'59 TR3a
'74 Spitsix

From nwolf at u.washington.edu  Wed Mar 26 11:52:34 2008
From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:52:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [TR] battery recommendations
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803261152340.2884@hymn32.u.washington.edu>

> Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 10:55:01 -0700
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Subject: Re: [TR] battery recommendations
> 
> > What is the consensus for a new battery for my MK1 GT6? I obviously 
> > want something that fits properly without having to change/extend 
> > cables, but also want something that will last, will start the car 
> 
> Take your old battery to Wally-mart and say "I want one of these".
> 
> >  and won't look stupid in the engine compartment.
> 
> Matter of opinion I guess ... to me, a Lucas battery "looks stupid", while
> anything that will reliably start the car looks smart.
> 
> Randall

   Matter of opinion indeed.  Unless you are of the opinion that rust is cool, get yourself a sealed battery like an Optima.  If you don't like the appearance, shells are available to make it look like a vintage battery.  Why do so many people spend thousands on a restoration and then plop a leaky box of acid right in the middle?  Makes no sense to me.
   You pay a bit more for sealed, but you get a battery that weighs less than the original, has more power, and won't leak.  Totally worth it, in my opinion.  I've seen way too many nice cars with holes in the battery tray.  Make it stop!  :)
   NFI, yada yada.

-Nick Wolf
'62-ish TR4
'70 BMW 2002
both with Optima red-tops, zero problems

From fogbro1 at comcast.net  Wed Mar 26 12:54:52 2008
From: fogbro1 at comcast.net (fogbro1 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:54:52 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR6 rocker assembly oiling
Message-ID: <032620081954.12302.47EAAA0C000C48A50000300E2200750744CE019D0D090100@comcast.net>

All,

I put an old beat up TR250 rocker assembly and, with the external oil line in place, am getting normal oil flow to each rocker. Must be a problem with the new shaft.

Just about out of adjustment on the TR250 rockers which are shorter due to the "thinner" head. The car is a TR6, a '75 with lower compression.

I'll update when the new assembly is returned to me.

Ed Woods

From terryrs at comcast.net  Wed Mar 26 16:13:05 2008
From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 23:13:05 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
Message-ID: <032620082313.15986.47EAD8810005750D00003E7222155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>

> My wife is having difficulty in shifting her TR3 into first gear at a stop. 

Kent, like everyone else on the list with a similar tranny, I have the same experience.  And like the others, I drop the lever into second, then move it to first.  And like the others, this doesn't work 100 percent of the time.  What DOES help, though, is when braking for the red light and rolling to a slow stop in second gear, gently feel for first gear before the wheels have come to an absolute stop, but after the point when the gears grind.  Then, bring it back into neutral for the light, and it should be lined up for the green light when it pops.  Even this doesn't seem to always work, but seems to improve things.

And when the impatient drivers behind you get REALLY annoying, get your car up to speed and, if the top is down, cough hard and spit straight up into the air.  Tailgaters tend to back off as this new form of insect wipes out on their windshield.  [But don't tell your 11 year old son this, or he will practice on every car that is unfortunate enough to pull in behind you....  :o)]

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A
New Hamshire

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Mar 26 16:25:10 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:25:10 -0400
Subject: [TR] battery recommendations
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803261152340.2884@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.43.0803261152340.2884@hymn32.u.washington.edu>
Message-ID: <20080326232749.LCWJ11293.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 02:52 PM 3/26/2008, you wrote:

>  Unless you are of the opinion that rust is cool,

Well, that's why I drive a Triumph, innit?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga. 


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From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Mar 26 16:27:55 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 19:27:55 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 hard to slide into 1st gear
In-Reply-To: <032620082313.15986.47EAD8810005750D00003E7222155751149C9D9
	79D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
References: <032620082313.15986.47EAD8810005750D00003E7222155751149C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20080326232754.LCYN11293.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 07:13 PM 3/26/2008, you wrote:

>And when the impatient drivers behind you get REALLY annoying, get 
>your car up to speed and, if the top is down, cough hard and spit 
>straight up into the air.  Tailgaters tend to back off as this new 
>form of insect wipes out on their windshield.

This is where a persistent oil leak or worn valve guides really comes 
into their own...mash the throttle and you're like a WW2 destroyer 
laying down a smoke screen...Mercedes drivers seek alternate routes...

Jeff Scarbrough
Mosquito Fogger, Ga.



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From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Wed Mar 26 20:22:57 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 23:22:57 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 gas tank drain swapped to R side
Message-ID: <047301c88fb9$dab97c90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

My question is can a new gas tank drain plug and washer (shown as #2 & #3 at
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29125&SortOrder
=5
be used on either side of the TR3A's gas tank?  Are these two items (#2 & #3
above)  all that is required to successfully convert from L side fuel draining
to R side fuel draining?  Of course, plugging up the previous drain will be
done, and I have sufficient SS fuel line length to make the conversion.  Is
this easily done?

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60  TR3a  TS71318

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Wed Mar 26 22:03:38 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 21:03:38 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 gas tank drain swapped to R side
In-Reply-To: <047301c88fb9$dab97c90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080327040329.QOUK1365.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> My question is can a new gas tank drain plug and washer 
> (shown as #2 & #3 at 
> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=
> 29125&SortOrder
> =5
> be used on either side of the TR3A's gas tank?  Are these two 
> items (#2 & #3
> above)  all that is required to successfully convert from L 
> side fuel draining to R side fuel draining? 

I don't think so.  Certainly not on my early tanks; the plug is different
threads than the line fitting.

Randall

From triumphs at consolidated.net  Wed Mar 26 21:15:59 2008
From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top)
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 23:15:59 -0500
Subject: [TR] blasting media
In-Reply-To: <d1b.20694c2a.35193d50@aol.com>
Message-ID: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIKEMLCIAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>

I can't speak to the health risks, (none of it can be good for you :)) but
there is no doubt you will wear out consumables faster with black beauty.
Personally, I like it, but the trade off is more frequent maintenance of
your blasting equipment.

Kg



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1345 - Release Date: 3/26/2008
6:50 PM

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Mar 27 04:28:50 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 06:28:50 -0500
Subject: [TR] blasting media
In-Reply-To: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIKEMLCIAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
References: <COEHIGDHIJHOCPAJBPBIKEMLCIAA.triumphs@consolidated.net>
Message-ID: <200803270628.50755.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

As far as health risks, I always use a mask with fine particle filters 
whenever I blast with the cabinet or out-doors.

I use glass beads in the cabinet and BB when the job is too big for the 
cabinet. Both work just great. 



The key is lots of high pressure air.

Bob

From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com  Thu Mar 27 06:28:33 2008
From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:28:33 -0400
Subject: [TR] Leak down engine testing? {Scanned}
Message-ID: <OF2741A503.1F358BB3-ON85257419.0047FD86-85257419.004A1557@edag.de>

I want to know a bit more about a used 6 cyl engine that I have bought
before installing it.  I have never done a leak down test but have read
numerous articles on doing so.   This engine has at most 1 hr of run time
in the past year and has not been started in the previous 5 or more years.
Two of the plugs look oil fouled, the rest look OK.  Lowering a small
inspection light thru the spark plug holes, the surface (that I can see) of
the  bores look nice and shiney (no rust).   I am considering having the
head rebuilt next winter to have with hardened valve seats so that leaves
most of my focus on the bores / rings.

Questions:
How does one "lock down" the crank to keep it from rotating from the air
pressure acting on the cylinder being checked?  The articles presume one is
doing this test on an engine in a vehicle - easy enough to put the car in
gear and chock the wheels.

I own a screw in style compression tester (but I do not own (nor want to
take the time to fab) a leak down tester) - what if I try to :poor boy" it
and only pressurize each cylinder individually in succession and listen for
relative changes in the air leakage - any merit in this?  I've spent years
listening to the air flow into the DCOEs with a hose before buying a carb
flow meter on my other car.

Off in digest land awaiting your replies.  Thanks


-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 27 06:39:57 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 13:39:57 +0000
Subject: [TR] Leak down engine testing? {Scanned}
In-Reply-To: <OF2741A503.1F358BB3-ON85257419.0047FD86-85257419.004A1557@edag.de>
References: <OF2741A503.1F358BB3-ON85257419.0047FD86-85257419.004A1557@edag.de>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W506A527DC52992419070A3E5FE0@phx.gbl>

Just run a compression test.  If it is satisfactory a leak down test is
unnecessary.  If it is not satisfactory then you can do the leak down to find
out where the leak is.  My leak down tester only charges one cylinder at a
time.  With the piston at top dead center the engine does not rotate from the
pressure.

Best regards,
Tom

> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com
> Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:28:33 -0400
> Subject: [TR] Leak down engine testing? {Scanned}
>
> I want to know a bit more about a used 6 cyl engine that I have bought
> before installing it.  I have never done a leak down test but have read
> numerous articles on doing so.   This engine has at most 1 hr of run time
> in the past year and has not been started in the previous 5 or more years.
> Two of the plugs look oil fouled, the rest look OK.  Lowering a small
> inspection light thru the spark plug holes, the surface (that I can see) of
> the  bores look nice and shiney (no rust).   I am considering having the
> head rebuilt next winter to have with hardened valve seats so that leaves
> most of my focus on the bores / rings.
>
> Questions:
> How does one "lock down" the crank to keep it from rotating from the air
> pressure acting on the cylinder being checked?  The articles presume one is
> doing this test on an engine in a vehicle - easy enough to put the car in
> gear and chock the wheels.
>
> I own a screw in style compression tester (but I do not own (nor want to
> take the time to fab) a leak down tester) - what if I try to :poor boy" it
> and only pressurize each cylinder individually in succession and listen for
> relative changes in the air leakage - any merit in this?  I've spent years
> listening to the air flow into the DCOEs with a hose before buying a carb
> flow meter on my other car.
>
> Off in digest land awaiting your replies.  Thanks
>
>
> --
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
> believed to be clean.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

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From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Thu Mar 27 11:33:54 2008
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 13:33:54 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A replacement "laygear" (Countershaft)
Message-ID: <47ebe892.2a6.1b7e.29498@cogeco.ca>

Last fall I carelessly put the gearbox in reverse while the car was still ever so slowly rolling forward and was greeted
with a bang.  From then on until I put it away the gearbox made a loud ticking noise in reverse and a lessor one in 1st.

I took the GB out over the winter and my mechanic says it's thrown a tooth on the Laygear (Countershaft?).   Moss & TRF
don't seem to stock them for the 2-3A but have an "improved" one for the 3B which I assume won't fit?

Any other source?

Plus I'm told the gearbox will always be noisy from then on.. new or used.

Or I could buy a used GB (without knowing its condition) and lose my overdrive (or xfer the o/d guts to the "new" one).

Options/advise/opinions?

Thanks,

Art

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Mar 27 11:37:52 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 14:37:52 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A replacement "laygear" (Countershaft)
Message-ID: <d69.25cb8ad6.351d4380@aol.com>

One solution would be to spend a couple of thou and buy Herman's Toyota 5  
speed box, or call him and see if he's had a good TR3 box w/overdrive, or that  
he can fit your overdrive to.
Good Luck
Mike Moore 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 27 11:58:42 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:58:42 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A replacement "laygear" (Countershaft)
In-Reply-To: <47ebe892.2a6.1b7e.29498@cogeco.ca>
References: <47ebe892.2a6.1b7e.29498@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <0f9901c8903c$934a80b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> I took the GB out over the winter and my mechanic says it's 
> thrown a tooth on the Laygear (Countershaft?).   Moss & TRF
> don't seem to stock them for the 2-3A

I must be confused.  Don't you mean P/N 105625 (Moss 841-010) ?  Both
sources seem to show it as available ... TRF even has a listing for used
ones.

> but have an "improved" 
> one for the 3B which I assume won't fit?

ISTR they are considerably different.  The 4-synchro version has two
separate sets of teeth for 1st and reverse (because 1st is now constant
mesh); as well as being longer overall.

> Or I could buy a used GB (without knowing its condition) and 
> lose my overdrive (or xfer the o/d guts to the "new" one).

I certainly wouldn't give up the OD; it's not that hard to transfer to a
'new' box as long as you find the right mainshaft.  If you stick with
3-synchro, you can use your old mainshaft.

> Options/advise/opinions?

Another option might be to find a used 3-synchro box and rob the needed gear
from it.  There's some chance it would be bad as well, but that's not a
common failure so IMO chances are pretty good it would be OK.  

Or if you like I could even take a dig through my junk box (not now though,
maybe in May), there should be several in there and likely at least one of
them is good.

Yet another option (though not one I recommend at all) is to find someone to
try to repair the gear.  Weld the tooth back up, machine it to shape, then
heat treat the whole thing.  Probably cheaper to just buy a rebuilt OD
gearbox from John Esposito or equivalent.

Randall

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Thu Mar 27 12:18:52 2008
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 14:18:52 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3A replacement "laygear" (Countershaft)
Message-ID: <47ebf31c.349.7331.25962@cogeco.ca>

> > I took the GB out over the winter and my mechanic says it's
> > thrown a tooth on the Laygear (Countershaft?).   Moss & TRF
> > don't seem to stock them for the 2-3A
>
> I must be confused.  Don't you mean P/N 105625 (Moss 841-010) ?  Both
> sources seem to show it as available ... TRF even has a listing for used
> ones.

I've not seen the G/B since talking to my mechanic so hopefully you're right, I took it to mean he as refering to
848-365 which Moss lists as unavailable.

> > Or I could buy a used GB (without knowing its condition) and
> > lose my overdrive (or xfer the o/d guts to the "new" one).
>
> I certainly wouldn't give up the OD; it's not that hard to transfer to a
> 'new' box as long as you find the right mainshaft.  If you stick with
> 3-synchro, you can use your old mainshaft.

Yeah I'm not fond of that option either.  I'd had the synchros replaced on my box a few years ago and swapping boxes (or
even parts) with an unknown seems like a step backwards..

> Or if you like I could even take a dig through my junk box (not now though,
> maybe in May), there should be several in there and likely at least one of
> them is good.

Thanks, it might come to that, although that will mean not getting the car back on the road until June :(

>
> Yet another option (though not one I recommend at all) is to find someone to
> try to repair the gear.  Weld the tooth back up, machine it to shape, then
> heat treat the whole thing.

LOL, oddly enough I was just saying to somebody else that's what we would have done back home on the farm.. ;)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 27 14:12:46 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 14:12:46 -0700
Subject: [TR] TR3A replacement "laygear" (Countershaft)
In-Reply-To: <47ebf31c.349.7331.25962@cogeco.ca>
References: <47ebf31c.349.7331.25962@cogeco.ca>
Message-ID: <0fe501c8904f$4e21c030$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

>  I took it to mean he as refering to
> 848-365 which Moss lists as unavailable.

That's what I would call the input shaft ... if it was missing a tooth,
you'd get noise in 2nd & 3rd as well as 1st & Rev.

Might be possible to swap in a later version of it, with some other
modifications to suit (possibly a custom bushing instead of the needle
bearing).  But I'd have to check them side-by-side to be certain.  Perhaps
someone else will know.

Mike's suggestion of Herman's Toyota conversion isn't bad either ... selling
your damaged box would likely cover most of the cost of Herman's kit.  Of
course you'd be giving up a 7-speed semi-automatic for a 5-speed manual, but
you wouldn't have to worry about breaking teeth either.

Randall

From MMoore8425 at aol.com  Thu Mar 27 16:54:23 2008
From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 19:54:23 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3A replacement "laygear" (Countershaft)
Message-ID: <c3a.2f7eb0e9.351d8daf@aol.com>

In a message dated 3/27/2008 2:18:18 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes:

Of
course you'd be giving up a 7-speed semi-automatic for a 5-speed  manual, but
you wouldn't have to worry about breaking teeth  either.



Randal, I have been of the notion that my 2nd OD is like 3rd gear, 3rd OD  is 
like 4th, but 4th is a true od ratio, I think you only get a 5 speed box,  
although its very convenient to just flip the switch (mine is on the gear shift  
knob) to go between 2nd and 2nd OD in the hills where I live.
Best, Mike Moore 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Thu Mar 27 21:52:40 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 20:52:40 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3A replacement "laygear" (Countershaft)
In-Reply-To: <c3a.2f7eb0e9.351d8daf@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080328035229.ODSG1365.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> Randal, I have been of the notion that my 2nd OD is like 3rd 
> gear, 3rd OD is like 4th, but 4th is a true od ratio, I think 
> you only get a 5 speed box, although its very convenient to 
> just flip the switch (mine is on the gear shift knob) to go 
> between 2nd and 2nd OD in the hills where I live.

2nd OD is actually a pretty good split between 2nd direct and 3rd direct.
It can make a noticeable difference in 0-60 time if your motor has been
tweaked to be a little more peaky than stock; especially since the stock
spread between 2nd and 3rd is kind of large.  Instead of having to rev past
the power peak in 2nd to avoid falling completely off the curve in 3rd, you
just flip the switch as soon as the power starts to fall and it puts you
right back on top of the power curve.

Try it sometime.

However you're right, 3rd OD is pretty close to 4th direct.  Not exactly the
same, but not far enough away to be worth an extra shift either.  However it
can still be very handy when you're trying to find the fastest way up the
mountain, as the stock switch location lets you shift without removing
either hand from the wheel, and with your foot still on the throttle.

Randall

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Fri Mar 28 03:55:37 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 06:55:37 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Cylinders
Message-ID: <04b501c890c2$42799aa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
For some reason, I hadn't realized that .75 bore Rear Wheel Cylinders are not
available.  If that is true,
it looks like I'll need to order two .70 bores instead of just replacing the
one that is the only one needed.  Is this true?

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3A  TS71318

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Mar 28 04:25:27 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 07:25:27 EDT
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Cylinders
Message-ID: <d48.2604707b.351e2fa7@aol.com>

Paul,
I don't recall the details but, yes, I had to replace my 3A rear cylinders  
with TR6 cylinders.  Write the new size on the cylinder with a magic marker  so 
years down the road you are not ordering the wrong replacement parts.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri Mar 28 04:26:23 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 07:26:23 -0400
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Cylinders
In-Reply-To: <04b501c890c2$42799aa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <04b501c890c2$42799aa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080328112557.HJAE11293.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 06:55 AM 3/28/2008, dorpaul wrote:

>List,
>For some reason, I hadn't realized that .75 bore Rear Wheel Cylinders are not
>available.  If that is true,
>it looks like I'll need to order two .70 bores instead of just replacing the
>one that is the only one needed.  Is this true?

You want your rear cylinders to be the same size, unless you find 
unpredictable braking exciting.  It ~probably~ wouldn't be 
noticeable, but then the difference could show up at the worst 
possible time.  With all you've put into that car, I'd spend a few $$ 
extra and replace both to match.

Jeff Scarbrough
Inadvertent Swerve, Ga.


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.0/1344 - Release Date: 3/26/2008 8:52 AM

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Fri Mar 28 07:56:03 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 07:56:03 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] Classic names are part of Tata deal
Message-ID: <26814859.1206716163707.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Classic names are part of Tata deal

Tony Lewin

Automotive News | March 27, 2008 - 6:46 am EST
Tata Motors will get the right use three classic British auto-brand names as
part of its $2.3 billion deal to buy Jaguar and Land Rover.

Included in the deal are the Rover name and the Jaguar-owned names of Daimler
and Lanchester.
Ford bought the rights to the Rover brand name from BMW in September 2006 for
an undisclosed sum to ensure no other automaker could use it and cause
confusion with the Land Rover brand.

"We acquired the Rover trademark in the interests of protecting Land Rover,"
said Ford of Europe spokesman John Gardiner. "So it's also in the interests of
the new owner of Land Rover to have it."

BMW obtained ownership of the Rover name when it bought the Rover group in
1994. In 2006, BMW refused a request from China's SAIC to use the Rover brand
name under license. SAIC had bought some assets of the ailing MG Rover group
and now builds cars called Roewes in China.

Jaguar acquired the rights to sell cars badged as Daimlers in 1960 from the UK
Daimler car company that was founded in 1896 and licensed by Gottlieb Daimler
to use his internal combustion engine. The UK Daimler car company also owned
the Lanchester brand name.

You may e-mail Tony Lewin at autonews at crain.com

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Daimler finally ditches Chrysler following name change

New brand name is confirmed as Daimler AG

DaimlerChrysler has expunged the memory of its ill-fated merger with the
American carmaker Chrysler after finally agreeing on a name change.

Following months of debate, shareholders yesterday approved changing the
manufacturer's name to Daimler AG.

Despite chief executive Dieter Zetsche's insistence that the company take the
name, shareholders, who had wanted to include Benz in the company's masthead,
were satisfied by a compromise.

Benz name

Co-founder of the German company Karl Benz will be honoured by changing the
name of the company's premium division Mercedes Car Group to Mercedes-Benz
Cars and renaming the van unit Mercedes-Benz Vans.

DaimlerChrysler Bank will also be renamed Mercedes-Benz Bank.

The changes will see the remaking of corporate material, including letterheads
and websites, and will cost between b,50 - 60m (B#34.6 - 41.5m).

The decision to use Daimler complies with an agreement struck between the
German manufacturer and Ford in August, which gave DaimlerChrysler permission
to use the Daimler name.

The Daimler name is currently owned by Jaguar.

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 28 09:37:00 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 08:37:00 -0800
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Cylinders
In-Reply-To: <04b501c890c2$42799aa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <20080328153654.PRFB21903.mta15.adelphia.net@randall>

> For some reason, I hadn't realized that .75 bore Rear Wheel 
> Cylinders are not available.

Are you sure ?  Both Moss & TRF have them listed as available on the
websites.

Bit odd that the TRF database shows applicability to TR6, but they do have
the original 504835 part number cross-referenced, so I'm confident it's the
right cylinder.

Randall

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Fri Mar 28 08:38:52 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 11:38:52 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off-topic request
References: <C09E3ADB-79AE-4D59-AE3D-5C030CA18A66@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <BFA49E38-FB0E-4BC4-8E63-BC4994A3C041@mindspring.com>

> From: Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
> Date: March 28, 2008 11:32:27 AM EDT
> To: Triumph List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>, 6pack Email List
<6pack at autox.team.net
> >
> Subject: Off-topic request
>
>
> Please pardon the off-topic post/request, but my son needs some help
> on a school project.  My wife and I have spoken to our traditional
> family, but they can be pretty lame and don't represent many
> states.  So, I thought I'd turn to my Triumph family.  My son needs
> postcards from any and all states for a class project.  His name is
> Davis Little so you should mail it to:
>
>> Davis Little
>> c/o Mrs. Druckers Class
>> Saint Martin's Episcopal School
>> 3110-A Ashford Dunwoody Road
>> Atlanta, GA  30319
>
>
>
> Thanks for your indulgence.  Now back to LBC material.
>
> Ashford Little
> 6-Pack Membership Secretary
> membership at 6-pack.org
> '70 TR6
>
>
>
>>
>> Subject: March Reading/Postcard Project
>>
>>
>> Dear Parents,
>>
>> Before Spring Break I requested that you and your family/friends
>> mail postcards to the children at school.  Thank you to everyone
>> who has had postcards sent to their child!  We are trying to
>> collect postcards from across the USA.  The class will be counting
>> the postcards, sorting them by states, and conducting some math
>> word problems with them.  We will use the postcards when we talk
>> about the individual states, too.  Please ask all of your friends
>> and family members to mail postcards to your child at school.  This
>> afternoon the children made lists of everyone that they would like
>> to receive postcards from and brought them home in their homework
>> folders.  Please send the postcards to:
>> Your Child's Name
>> c/o Mrs. Druckers Class
>> Saint Martin's Episcopal School
>> 3110-A Ashford Dunwoody Road
>> Atlanta, GA  30319

>> Thank you,
>> Merryl

From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com  Fri Mar 28 10:37:01 2008
From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 10:37:01 -0700
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Cylinders
In-Reply-To: <04b501c890c2$42799aa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
References: <04b501c890c2$42799aa0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <FEA31C68379D455E98B5B70FB04E4D1D@GeoPC>

In any case (if you have not already) you should measure to see what you 
actually have.  A lot of substitutions occured over the years when the 
correct sizes were not on the local parts shelf.  Don't assume that your 
current ones are 'as original'.

Geo

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "dorpaul" <dorpaul at bellsouth.net>
To: "list Triumph" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 3:55 AM
Subject: [TR] Rear Wheel Cylinders


> List,
> For some reason, I hadn't realized that .75 bore Rear Wheel Cylinders are 
> not
> available.  If that is true,
> it looks like I'll need to order two .70 bores instead of just replacing 
> the
> one that is the only one needed.  Is this true?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Dorsey
> 60 TR3A  TS71318 

From wbeech at flash.net  Fri Mar 28 10:47:29 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 11:47:29 -0600
Subject: [TR] Off-topic request
In-Reply-To: <BFA49E38-FB0E-4BC4-8E63-BC4994A3C041@mindspring.com>
References: <C09E3ADB-79AE-4D59-AE3D-5C030CA18A66@mindspring.com>
	<BFA49E38-FB0E-4BC4-8E63-BC4994A3C041@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <000701c890fb$ccb6c420$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Not off-topic if we can include a picture of our favorite TR on the post
card!

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Ashford Little
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 9:39 AM
To: 6pack Email List; Triumph List
Subject: [TR] Off-topic request

> From: Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
> Date: March 28, 2008 11:32:27 AM EDT
> To: Triumph List <Triumphs at autox.team.net>, 6pack Email List
<6pack at autox.team.net
> >
> Subject: Off-topic request
>
>
> Please pardon the off-topic post/request, but my son needs some help
> on a school project.  My wife and I have spoken to our traditional
> family, but they can be pretty lame and don't represent many states.
> So, I thought I'd turn to my Triumph family.  My son needs postcards
> from any and all states for a class project.  His name is Davis Little
> so you should mail it to:
>
>> Davis Little
>> c/o Mrs. Druckers Class
>> Saint Martin's Episcopal School
>> 3110-A Ashford Dunwoody Road
>> Atlanta, GA  30319
>
>
>
> Thanks for your indulgence.  Now back to LBC material.
>
> Ashford Little
> 6-Pack Membership Secretary
> membership at 6-pack.org
> '70 TR6
>
>
>
>>
>> Subject: March Reading/Postcard Project
>>
>>
>> Dear Parents,
>>
>> Before Spring Break I requested that you and your family/friends mail
>> postcards to the children at school.  Thank you to everyone who has
>> had postcards sent to their child!  We are trying to collect
>> postcards from across the USA.  The class will be counting the
>> postcards, sorting them by states, and conducting some math word
>> problems with them.  We will use the postcards when we talk about the
>> individual states, too.  Please ask all of your friends and family
>> members to mail postcards to your child at school.  This afternoon
>> the children made lists of everyone that they would like to receive
>> postcards from and brought them home in their homework folders.
>> Please send the postcards to:
>> Your Child's Name
>> c/o Mrs. Druckers Class
>> Saint Martin's Episcopal School
>> 3110-A Ashford Dunwoody Road
>> Atlanta, GA  30319

>> Thank you,
>> Merryl
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri Mar 28 10:56:49 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 13:56:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] Off Topic Dodge Neon Question
Message-ID: <8CA5F143AE114D7-16EC-5B3@FWM-D12.sysops.aol.com>

 Sorry to bomb the list.? I have tried to find information on the web without much luck.? I am trying to figure out the source of a leak in the coolant system of a 98 Dodge Neon. I will have to purchase a repair manual but thought I would pick the brains of the list.? Anyone familiar with these "wonderful" cars?? Please reply off list so as not to clog up the list with more off topic stuff.

Thanks,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Mar 28 12:59:02 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:59:02 -0400
Subject: [TR] Assorted Fastener Questions
Message-ID: <000101c8910e$2d810920$210110ac@bobspc>

Having spent the past few months taking more of my car apart at the same
time then ever before, the assortment of fasteners used has piqued my
curiosity. I'm sure there are engineering and mechanical reasons for what's
used but a couple of things stand out.

It seems that every bolt/nut is a fine thread instead of a coarse thread and
wonder why. Do fine threads offer more holding power because there's more
threads per inch or are there other reasons? It seems that a fine thread
would/could strip easier......especially in an aluminum component.

There's a mishmash of bolts with Nyloc nuts & split washers and bolts with
regular nuts and split washers. I thought maybe the Nyloc worked better in a
component prone to vibration but....heck our whole cars vibrate! So why one
over the other?

And then there's the "modern" products to hold parts in place (red & blue
Loctite) and anti-seize to let other parts come apart more easily. Someone
could probably write a book on just their use!

If I knew then what I know now, I would have ordered from McMaster boxes of
bolts, nuts and washers rather then buying them locally in twosies and
threesies! I probably would have saved 50% over the big box stores.

Thanks

Bob.........engine and tranny going back in this week...maybe Sunday!

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Mar 28 13:30:58 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:30:58 EDT
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions
Message-ID: <c20.31f3291c.351eaf82@cs.com>

Short response:

Typically, you will find coarse threads in cast iron. 

Coarse works very well in aluminum, too, but exceptions may be seen.

I have done away with lock washers and use Loc-Tite.  (so has a major tractor 
manufacturer following an extensive study)

I like Nyloc nuts...especially on things like throttle linkages.

Sometimes I like to use stainless steel cap screws. Mostly cosmetic reasons.

Tractor Supply sells some hardware by the pound...much cheaper than per piece 
at ACE Hardware.

Joe A 




> Having spent the past few months taking more of my car apart at the same
> time then ever before, the assortment of fasteners used has piqued my
> curiosity. I'm sure there are engineering and mechanical reasons for what's
> used but a couple of things stand out.
> 
> It seems that every bolt/nut is a fine thread instead of a coarse thread and
> wonder why. Do fine threads offer more holding power because there's more
> threads per inch or are there other reasons? It seems that a fine thread
> would/could strip easier......especially in an aluminum component.
> 
> There's a mishmash of bolts with Nyloc nuts & split washers and bolts with
> regular nuts and split washers. I thought maybe the Nyloc worked better in a
> component prone to vibration but....heck our whole cars vibrate! So why one
> over the other?
> 
> And then there's the "modern" products to hold parts in place (red & blue
> Loctite) and anti-seize to let other parts come apart more easily. Someone
> could probably write a book on just their use!
> 
> If I knew then what I know now, I would have ordered from McMaster boxes of
> bolts, nuts and washers rather then buying them locally in twosies and
> threesies! I probably would have saved 50% over the big box stores.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bob.........engine and tranny going back in this week...maybe Sunday!
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> 

   </HTML>

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Fri Mar 28 14:59:10 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 14:59:10 -0700
Subject: [TR] Assorted Fastener Questions
In-Reply-To: <000101c8910e$2d810920$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000101c8910e$2d810920$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <11d201c8911e$f3d61880$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>

> Do fine threads offer more holding power because 
> there's more
> threads per inch or are there other reasons?

A related reason : for a given nominal diameter, fine threads have a larger
minimum diameter.  So, for example, a 1/2-13 bolt has a minimum diameter (at
the bottom of the threads) of around .444", while a 1/2-20 is around .462"

However our cars seem to have a lot more fine threads than I think can be
justified on the basis of strength, and I have no idea why that is true.

> I thought maybe the Nyloc 
> worked better in a
> component prone to vibration but....heck our whole cars 
> vibrate! So why one
> over the other?

One reason is that nylocs don't work when there isn't a separate nut (like
bolts into castings, captive nuts, etc.)  They also don't stand up to high
temperatures (like exhaust systems).  But they do work better than lock
washers in places where there isn't a lot of clamping force (like suspension
pivots).  Also somewhat easier to install on an assembly line.  There's
more, but that's a start.

>  Someone
> could probably write a book on just their use!

Someone has.  Legend has it that it was going to be called "Screw to Win"
(being the companion volume to "Tune to Win", "Drive to Win", etc.) but the
publisher wouldn't go for it.
http://www.carrollsmith.com/books/nutsbolts.html

> If I knew then what I know now, I would have ordered from 
> McMaster boxes of
> bolts, nuts and washers rather then buying them locally in twosies and
> threesies! I probably would have saved 50% over the big box stores.

Yup.  Especially those dang Nyloc nuts that need to be replaced from time to
time.

Randall

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Mar 28 22:02:02 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 23:02:02 -0600
Subject: [TR] TTA Pledges, Holdouts, and Pink Floyd
Message-ID: <47EDCD4A.2050508@tscusa.org>

Hi All,

A man is only as good as his word.  Your word is your bond.

Theme song for this Charity Drive is "On the Turning Away" by Pink Floyd.
Have a listen to the words, read them below, then get your checkbook 
out, write that check
and get it into the mail!

On the turning away
 From the pale and downtrodden
And the words they say
Which we won't understand
"Don't accept that what's happening
Is just a case of others' suffering
Or you'll find that you're joining in
The turning away"

It's a sin that somehow
Light is changing to shadow
And casting its shroud
Over all we have known
Unaware how the ranks have grown
Driven on by a heart of stone
We could find that we're all alone
In the dream of the proud

On the wings of the night
As the daytime is stirring
Where the speechless unite
In a silent accord
Using words you will find are strange
And mesmerized as they light the flame
Feel the new wind of change
On the wings of the night

No more turning away
 From the weak and the weary
No more turning away
 From the coldness inside
Just a world that we all must share
It's not enough just to stand and stare
Is it only a dream that there'll be
No more turning away?

goto:
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

Thanks!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Mar 29 08:03:19 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 15:03:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] Replacement Title Service
Message-ID: <032920081503.25692.47EE5A36000E7D5B0000645C2200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>

Good morning, ALL.

My vintage race prepared TR4 is up for sale and I may have found a buyer for it. However, the prospective buyer needs the car to have a title to import it into his country (Belgium) and as this car has always been a race car, there wasn't one available when I bought it. Has anyone used one of the replacement title services such as the company that advertises this service in Hemmings? I'd appreciate any and all comments/suggestions.

Thanks,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From wbeech at flash.net  Sat Mar 29 09:05:42 2008
From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 10:05:42 -0600
Subject: [TR] Replacement Title Service
In-Reply-To: <032920081503.25692.47EE5A36000E7D5B0000645C2200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <032920081503.25692.47EE5A36000E7D5B0000645C2200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000601c891b6$be8cc0f0$6401a8c0@sniffer>

Irv,

Have never used any of the title services, but here are my thoughts anyway:

I presume the buyer has confirmed that a notarized bill of sale is not
enough for legal import, being that this is not for use on the public roads.


Don't know the DMV rules for IL but you should start there.  You might have
to declare the car as 'home built' and it might have to pass state safety
inspections.  

If the buyer is going to drive this on the road, the safety work will have
to be done here or there, he should participate in the costs.   If he is
only going to race it, IMHO, it no more needs a title than any other piece
of machinery (but I am not in Belgium).

You could always pull the trick that some small auto-makers and importers do
and that would be to remove several vital parts (i.e. dist, starter, fuel
tank etc.) and sell them to the guy separately and classify the balance of
non-running (partially assembled) car as "Parts".

Good luck,

Bill B
'58 TR-3A TS/30766 L
'59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO
"A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
course, some times it is difficult to make it go"





-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
emanteno at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, March 29, 2008 9:03 AM
To: TRiumphs
Subject: [TR] Replacement Title Service

Good morning, ALL.

My vintage race prepared TR4 is up for sale and I may have found a buyer for
it. However, the prospective buyer needs the car to have a title to import
it into his country (Belgium) and as this car has always been a race car,
there wasn't one available when I bought it. Has anyone used one of the
replacement title services such as the company that advertises this service
in Hemmings? I'd appreciate any and all comments/suggestions.

Thanks,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net

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From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sat Mar 29 11:39:46 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 14:39:46 -0400
Subject: [TR] spring cleaning
Message-ID: <47EE54B2.9788.3F617AA@localhost>

Fellow Triumphirazzi and Spitfirazzi,

My better half has asked me to clean some of the car parts out of her 
gardening shed.  So in the interest of domestic tranquility I am 
therefore discarding (finally) a bunch of stuff that came with or off 
of the Spitfire or GT6.  Some of it might be useful to any of you 
doing a restoration to original appearance.  Yours for the pick-up:

8 steel wheels, oval-hole, painted silver, good condition though 
probably all not totally perfectly round.  I was driving on them 
before replacing wheels and tires, but that was some years ago.  
Those from the Spitfire are stamped 5Jx13x22.  Those from the GT6 are 
stamped 4.5x13x88.

4 chrome trim rings from the GT6 wheels, bright and shiny (more or 
less).

4 plastic spring-loaded center hubcaps for the Spitfire, gray with 
"Triumph" in blue letters across the center.

Also 3 steel gold-colored unsloted wheels of unknown source, probably 
came with but certainly not on the GT6.

If these aren't useful to any of you (and I don't really expect they 
would be) they'll be thrown out.

Also free for the pick-up but not to be pitched:

GT6 hatch with window and rear latch, good condition.
Various side and door glass pieces for the GT6.

And we have a nice rear-tine garden tiller for sale, power drive 
wheel snad power reverse.  Its 0-60 time is quite good if you figure 
the 60 aa cm/sec.  No hardtop available though.

No, there are no racing parts.  Sorry.

Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Sat Mar 29 13:41:39 2008
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 16:41:39 EDT
Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 158
Message-ID: <c34.2c799621.35200383@aol.com>

**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&amp;
ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From FordneyNJ at aol.com  Sat Mar 29 13:48:10 2008
From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 16:48:10 EDT
Subject: [TR] Fastener Questions
Message-ID: <c9f.27e73de1.3520050a@aol.com>

There are all metal locking nuts, one time use only.  Most larger hardware 
stores (not big box stores) stock nylon lock nut as packaged goods, typically 
100 pcs/per.  If not stocked, they can be ordered.


Rodney Ford,                     Brick, NJ
TR4A IRS   CTC60536L
TR7 Spider  TPVDJ8AA 400612
President, Positive Earth Drivers Club


**************
Create a Home Theater 
Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home.
      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&amp;ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sat Mar 29 18:00:14 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 17:00:14 -0800
Subject: [TR] Fastener Questions
In-Reply-To: <c9f.27e73de1.3520050a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080330000010.FRCK680.mta16.adelphia.net@randall>

> There are all metal locking nuts, one time use only.

Also available in multiple use (tho not infinite).  My experience is that
they last longer (more remove/install cycles) than Nylocs do.  They also can
have considerably more holding power (which is why I use them, Nylocs kept
backing off).  I get mine from MMC
http://www.mcmaster.com/

Randall

From eoot at citlink.net  Sun Mar 30 05:30:07 2008
From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 08:30:07 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Cigarette Lighter Install
Message-ID: <001301c89261$cb9dab50$640a0a0a@WANDERER>

Folks,
The desire is to install an auxillary power source in TR3 to power a GPS. I
have searched the archives and read everything I could find, but still have a
couple of questions.

The car is still positive ground. The adaptor I picked up from Wally World is
two wire, with pos to to the center. Given the fact that it is two wire, is
there still a concern with grounding through the case/bracket? Ia m assuming
that I keep the polarity the same and ground the positive.

In one post Randall suggests tapping into the brown/white side of the ammeter.
I assume I would tie into that with the negative lead from the socket and then
find a good spot to ground the positive lead. Given that, again, is there
concern with the mounting? He also mentioned the need for a fuse. How do I
determine a good size.

Thanks
Ed

From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 30 05:46:48 2008
From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 12:46:48 +0000
Subject: [TR] Replacement Title Service
In-Reply-To: <000601c891b6$be8cc0f0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
References: <032920081503.25692.47EE5A36000E7D5B0000645C2200750438970A9D010507@comcast.net>
	<000601c891b6$be8cc0f0$6401a8c0@sniffer>
Message-ID: <BAY110-W5615915E125AB8B40B6F01E5FB0@phx.gbl>

Have you actually traced your Vin number through the motor vehicle department
to insure the car has never been registered?  You could claim it as an
abandoned vehivle and get ot registered that way.

Best regards,
Tom



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is giving away Zunes.
http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/ZuneADay/?locale=en-US&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Mobi
le_Zune_V3

From npaul72464 at aol.com  Sun Mar 30 07:22:49 2008
From: npaul72464 at aol.com (npaul72464 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 10:22:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Cigarette Lighter Install
In-Reply-To: <001301c89261$cb9dab50$640a0a0a@WANDERER>
References: <001301c89261$cb9dab50$640a0a0a@WANDERER>
Message-ID: <8CA6088AAE04761-1338-614@WEBMAIL-MB03.sysops.aol.com>

 I used a plastic bodied accessory plug in my TR3.? I connected the negative wire to the brown/blue wire at the ignition switch so that it is usable whether the car is on or not (handy for charging cell phones at car shows, etc.).? Worked fine for several years.? I like the idea of a fuse and will add one.

Ned Paulsen
1958 TR3


 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Oot <eoot at citlink.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 8:30 am
Subject: [TR] TR3 Cigarette Lighter Install










Folks,
The desire is to install an auxillary power source in TR3 to power a GPS. I
have searched the archives and read everything I could find, but still have a
couple of questions.

The car is still positive ground. The adaptor I picked up from Wally World is
two wire, with pos to to the center. Given the fact that it is two wire, is
there still a concern with grounding through the case/bracket? Ia m assuming
that I keep the polarity the same and ground the positive.

In one post Randall suggests tapping into the brown/white side of the ammeter.
I assume I would tie into that with the negative lead from the socket and then
find a good spot to ground the positive lead. Given that, again, is there
concern with the mounting? He also mentioned the need for a fuse. How do I
determine a good size.

Thanks
Ed
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as npaul72464 at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net  Sun Mar 30 08:21:11 2008
From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 08:21:11 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
Subject: [TR] Nice 1975 MGB For Sale On Craigslist
Message-ID: <18188695.1206890471343.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hybrid.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Dear Readers,

In response to my announcement that the Palo Alto All British Car Meet has been moved to the Brisbane, CA, Sierra Point Marina for this year's meet (Sept. 6th & 7th, 2008), I got this email from participant Peter Kepler.

This is a very good deal for someone who wants to get into the hobby on a shoestring with a really clean car that is out of CA smog demands - Yes, It has the big ol' rubber baby buggy bumpers but that is good if you live in a city and they are now removable with the new chrome bumper kits (that can be installed by the folks at ON THE ROAD AGAIN in Morgan Hill, CA).  Check it out.....

Best,

Rick Feibusch 

-----Forwarded Message-----
From: Peter Kepler <PK at peterkepler.com>
Sent: Mar 29, 2008 11:05 PM
To: Richard Feibusch <rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: The 2008 Palo Alto (CA) British Meet Sept 8 & 9

Richard,
My 1975 MGB Anniversary with lots of extras is really in very good  
condition, I must sell for family reasons,

I've listed it for under 4K, please pass it along to anyone you know  
might be appreciated, thank you very much. Enjoyed the Palo Alto show last year. Here is the link

https://post.craigslist.org/manage/623699248/yi2r6

Peter Kepler

From jimmuller at rcn.com  Sun Mar 30 08:20:43 2008
From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 11:20:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] [Spits] spring cleaning
In-Reply-To: <132122.12566.qm@web608.biz.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <47EE54B2.9788.3F617AA@localhost>
Message-ID: <47EF778B.16068.8663723@localhost>

Yesterday a few people wrote to me asking, essentially:

> WHERE????

I had actualy told myself that I must include my location in that 
spring cleaning note.  But you see, I wrote that note while sitting 
outside with my laptop.  The temperature never got above 40degF so 
just moving the fingers was a struggle.  I figured I was doing pretty 
good just to get it typed at all, and just plum forgot about giving 
my location.  Okay, maybe the beer helped a little bit too.

Boston area.

-- 
Jim Muller
jimmuller at rcn.com
'80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 30 09:39:57 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 08:39:57 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 Cigarette Lighter Install
In-Reply-To: <001301c89261$cb9dab50$640a0a0a@WANDERER>
Message-ID: <20080330153947.YFAK22170.mta13.adelphia.net@randall>

> Given the fact that it is two wire, is there still a concern 
> with grounding through the case/bracket?

Depends on the adaptor.  Safest thing is to check with a powered test lamp
or ohmmeter, for continuity between the mounting and either power lead.
Some do, some don't.

> Ia m assuming that I 
> keep the polarity the same and ground the positive.

Right.

> I assume I would tie into that with the negative lead from 
> the socket and then find a good spot to ground the positive 
> lead.

That's right.

> Given that, again, is there concern with the mounting? 

As above, you need to check whether your adaptor has the outer plug
electrically connected to the mounting.  If not, you are good to go.  If it
does, I'd suggest looking for one that doesn't.

> He also mentioned the need for a fuse. How do I determine a good size.

Ideally it should be sized to the wire gauge you use.  But 10 amps (American
rating) should do.  Your GPS should only take an amp or two maximum, but you
might want to power something else in the future.  If you think you might
want to use a cigarette lighter, then use heavier wire and a 20 amp fuse.

Randall

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Mar 30 08:49:20 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 10:49:20 -0500
Subject: [TR] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund
Message-ID: <000801c8927d$9fad9660$7d15a8c0@garage.local>

Many thanks to all of you who contributed generously to this effort.

We have also received donations from many who did not even make pledges.

thank you again!

we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would really appreciate
receiving the donations of those of you who pledged but have not yet
contributed.

The stag has been acquired; from what I understand its now in kit form!

Let's all do what we can, and give jonmac a big welcome when he comes
stateside in 2009!!!!!

Please send donations to:
 Red River Triumph Club
 c/o Sumton Network Services, Inc.
 3767 Forest Lane
 Suite 124-335
 Dallas, TX 75244-7100

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 30 10:38:54 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 09:38:54 -0800
Subject: [TR] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund
In-Reply-To: <000801c8927d$9fad9660$7d15a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <20080330163839.HABN1365.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would 
> really appreciate receiving the donations of those of you who 
> pledged but have not yet contributed.

Thanks much for posting the address again, Oliver, I had misplaced it.
Check is on it's way.

Randall

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Mar 30 12:40:43 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 15:40:43 -0400
Subject: [TR] Lucas halogen headlights
Message-ID: <47EFECBB.7050307@snet.net>

    I have a set of 7" lucas halogen headlight housings, but no bulbs.  
It looks like the bulb unit needs to have 3 lugs located equidistantly 
around the base to lock into the housings.  Can anyone provide me with a 
part number and place to order the bulbs?    Thanks,   John Mitchell   
76  TR6

From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca  Sun Mar 30 13:34:49 2008
From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (Art McEwen)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 16:34:49 -0400
Subject: [TR] TR3 Cigarette Lighter Install
Message-ID: <47EFF969.2030301@cogeco.ca>

>The desire is to install an auxillary power source in TR3 to power a GPS. 

Same thing here.  I ran the "ground" wire from the aux power source to 
the fuse panel on the firewall and then grounded the "power" wire, 
verified the power reading was the same polarity as on my real car and 
hooked it up.   I think the unit has an inline fuse but I can't remember 
offhand (car's in storage).  I try to unplug the GPS when starting the 
car in case there's some sort of electrical surge but I'm not religious 
about it.   The unit is attached to one of the underdash brackets (also 
the optional ash tray mount maybe?).

Ran all last summer just fine.

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Mar 30 14:11:27 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 21:11:27 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund
Message-ID: <033020082111.363.47F001FF00062F270000016B2200762302970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> 

> Many thanks to all of you who contributed generously to this effort. 
> 
> We have also received donations from many who did not even make pledges. 
> 
> thank you again! 
> 
> we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would really appreciate 
> receiving the donations of those of you who pledged but have not yet 
> contributed. 
> 
> The stag has been acquired; from what I understand its now in kit form! 
As of today, the entire drivetrain, suspension, and interior have been removed from the Stag. Also, the bonnet, windshield, all lights, and t-bar are off, and much of the trim. There isn't much more than a bare tub right now. We had a very productive day today.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From FGFO1 at aol.com  Sun Mar 30 14:40:22 2008
From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 17:40:22 EDT
Subject: [TR] TR3 fender to bonnet clearance
Message-ID: <d2e.1b070acd.352162c6@aol.com>

well I fixed my front apron. cut the tie bar bracket from the inner wing  and 
repositioned it. looking good. all dimensions within 1/8" now.
now I'm looking at the gap between the bonnet and the front fender, all  
along the sides. someplace's its tight 1/8". other places   its horrible  3/4". I 
can make it right. but what's right? or what's nominal?
I don't have the fender bead to play with to figure out how much space it  
takes up or if it looks good at say 1/4".
however wide it is, its equally covering both the fender and the apron.  when 
we get to the bonnet the bigger part of 1/2 of it takes up some of the  space 
between the bonnet and fender. how much space? what's the fender bead  
dimension?
love to hear your dimensions.
also what tricks have you guys pulled to stop the back of the bonnet  rubbing 
against the cowl when opening? i don't have room to elongate the holes  and 
move the bonnet forward. too close to the apron already. shim the  hinge to 
cowl? or ?
thanks
Frank 



**************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
Home.      
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Mar 30 14:32:18 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 16:32:18 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair  fund
In-Reply-To: <033020082111.363.47F001FF00062F270000016B2200762302970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <033020082111.363.47F001FF00062F270000016B2200762302970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <200803301632.18802.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 30 March 2008 04:11 pm, emanteno at comcast.net wrote:
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
>
> > Many thanks to all of you who contributed generously to this effort.
> >
> > We have also received donations from many who did not even make pledges.
> >
> > thank you again!
> >
> > we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would really appreciate
> > receiving the donations of those of you who pledged but have not yet
> > contributed.
> >
> > The stag has been acquired; from what I understand its now in kit form!
>
> As of today, the entire drivetrain, suspension, and interior have been
> removed from the Stag. Also, the bonnet, windshield, all lights, and t-bar
> are off, and much of the trim. There isn't much more than a bare tub right
> now. We had a very productive day today. Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> _______________________________________________
>
Irv,

You guys are so lucky to be working on that car. It sounds like fun when a 
bunch of guys get together for a job like this.

How many do you have in the crew?

Now are we going to have to organize another fundraiser for all the beer you 
must be drinking?

I spent the day removing the engine from the 3 to get ready for a rebuild.

Lots of fun there and a bit of colorful language!

Weather is improving, may be able to get he bike and the 4 out for a spin this 
week.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Mar 30 14:41:49 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 16:41:49 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR3 fender to bonnet clearance
In-Reply-To: <d2e.1b070acd.352162c6@aol.com>
References: <d2e.1b070acd.352162c6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200803301641.49625.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 30 March 2008 04:40 pm, FGFO1 at aol.com wrote:
> well I fixed my front apron. cut the tie bar bracket from the inner wing 
> and repositioned it. looking good. all dimensions within 1/8" now.
> now I'm looking at the gap between the bonnet and the front fender, all
> along the sides. someplace's its tight 1/8". other places   its horrible 
> 3/4". I can make it right. but what's right? or what's nominal?

Not sure but 3/4 is a bit much. 1/8 sounds about right. You dont want to be 
hitting the bead when you open and close the bonnet.

> I don't have the fender bead to play with to figure out how much space it
> takes up or if it looks good at say 1/4".
> however wide it is, its equally covering both the fender and the apron. 
> when we get to the bonnet the bigger part of 1/2 of it takes up some of the
>  space between the bonnet and fender. how much space? what's the fender
> bead dimension?

Just went in the garage and the bead is not quite 5/16 inch at the bottom.

> love to hear your dimensions.
> also what tricks have you guys pulled to stop the back of the bonnet 
> rubbing against the cowl when opening? i don't have room to elongate the
> holes  and move the bonnet forward. too close to the apron already. shim
> the  hinge to cowl? or ?

Same problem here. I just make sure it is open when I open the bonnet.

> thanks
> Frank
>
Your welcome.

Bob

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 30 16:35:32 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 15:35:32 -0800
Subject: [TR] TR3 fender to bonnet clearance
In-Reply-To: <d2e.1b070acd.352162c6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080330223517.UIZL1365.mta11.adelphia.net@randall>

> love to hear your dimensions.

>From memory, mine was closer to 1/4" all around.

> also what tricks have you guys pulled to stop the back of the 
> bonnet  rubbing against the cowl when opening?

One thing is to be sure the bonnet has enough arch in the middle.  I
reformed mine a bit by shutting it on a piece of wood.  An extra gasket
between the hinge & cowl will help too.  Last is to be sure the vent lid
sits down where it belongs, some of the aftermarket gaskets for it are too
big and force it to sit too high.

Randall

From thebujas at comcast.net  Sun Mar 30 16:07:43 2008
From: thebujas at comcast.net (Ann and Tim Buja)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 18:07:43 -0500
Subject: [TR] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1206903600.12287.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIEEBICLAA.thebujas@comcast.net>

Oliver wrote:
> The stag has been acquired; from what I understand its now in kit form!

I'm happy to report that the Stag was disassembled today and is now down to
a body shell on a cart.  All suspension, lights, fixed glass, interior trim,
etc. parts have been removed and are now in the hands of the ISOA
restoration team members.  I've got two boxes of electrical parts (exterior
lights, distributor, starter, alternator, and more) to assess and repair or
replace as needed.  Numerous photos were taken and should be posted online
in the next couple of days.

We still need assistance in securing the delivery of the donor car with
four-speed gearbox and overdrive, flywheel, clutch, pedal box and
engine-to-gearbox adapter plate from New Mexico to Illinois to complete the
automatic to four-speed/OD conversion.  This will probably be the critical
path as we will not be able to balance the engine parts until the flywheel
is in our hands.  If you can help, please contact David Graham, TSC USA
Central Atlantic Region Director at grahamda at charter.net

Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Mar 30 16:57:07 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 17:57:07 -0600
Subject: [TR] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund
In-Reply-To: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIEEBICLAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
References: <AAENINAHPDGILMLPMKDIEEBICLAA.thebujas@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <47F028D3.8040300@tscusa.org>

Hi Tim,
Thanks for the excellent report.  GREAT PROGRESS!!!  I can't wait to see 
the photos and put links on the TTA web site.

We have just enough money remaining in the restoration fund at present 
from the received pledges to purchase the complete 4 speed J OD and all 
the parts for conversion in Massachusetts.  This will be less cost than 
getting the parts car from NM.

We can get the flywheel and engine adapter plate picked up and FedX 
Ground shipped probably in a few weeks.

So what we need now is transportation of the 4 speed conversion parts 
from around the Boston Area to west of the Chicago area. 

If you can help, please contact David Graham, TSC USA
Central Atlantic Region Director at grahamda at charter.net


Cheers!

Glenn

Ann and Tim Buja wrote:
> Oliver wrote:
>   
>> The stag has been acquired; from what I understand its now in kit form!
>>     
>
> I'm happy to report that the Stag was disassembled today and is now down to
> a body shell on a cart.  All suspension, lights, fixed glass, interior trim,
> etc. parts have been removed and are now in the hands of the ISOA
> restoration team members.  I've got two boxes of electrical parts (exterior
> lights, distributor, starter, alternator, and more) to assess and repair or
> replace as needed.  Numerous photos were taken and should be posted online
> in the next couple of days.
>
> We still need assistance in securing the delivery of the donor car with
> four-speed gearbox and overdrive, flywheel, clutch, pedal box and
> engine-to-gearbox adapter plate from New Mexico to Illinois to complete the
> automatic to four-speed/OD conversion.  This will probably be the critical
> path as we will not be able to balance the engine parts until the flywheel
> is in our hands.  If you can help, please contact David Graham, TSC USA
> Central Atlantic Region Director at grahamda at charter.net
>
> Tim Buja - Rockford, IL - 80 TR8, 73 Stag, 72 TR6
>
>
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From dorpaul at bellsouth.net  Sun Mar 30 17:36:38 2008
From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 20:36:38 -0400
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor & 'Engine Exhaust Gas Analyzer'
Message-ID: <004701c892c7$491c7c90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>

List,
Without knowing if it will work or not, I went ahead and ordered a Oxygen
Sensor for my car:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=25022
1126650

You see, I already have a NOS 'Engine Exhaust Gas Analyzer' (which has never
been used and looks out of the '80's-maybe older).  Perhaps this instrument
would be all I would need for playing with my tuning 'down-the-road', so to
speak.  But I thought, just in case, this SINGLE WIRE OXYGEN SENSOR might be
of some value.  At this time I only 'think I know' that 14.7 parts oxygen to 1
part fuel is suppose to be the ideal mixture.  (You better MOVE OVER Randall,
buddy!!) j.k.

Seriously, does anyone know anything about whether using these two things
togather might be possible?

Thanks,
Paul Dorsey
60 TR3

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From patton at suscom-maine.net  Sun Mar 30 19:29:29 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 21:29:29 -0500
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor & 'Engine Exhaust Gas Analyzer'
In-Reply-To: <004701c892c7$491c7c90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCMEMFGAAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

Hello Paul,

I think that they have misled you on this item. When your TR was built O2
sensors had not been invented. The add copy is very misleading. What they
show in the photo is a typical single wire sensor as used in the mid
eighties GM cars and trucks. It's a very common sensor and available at all
the parts stores for about the price offered. It has limited use for tuning
as it is a narrow band sensor meaning it will only show a small percentage
plus or minus from optimum of 14.7.

If your tester has only a single lead (or two with one being ground) it may
work. You may need to add a bung to keep it close to the exhaust manifold so
it will be heated by the exhaust. You can get a bung and a plug at most any
auto parts stores. The newer higher end testers use three or four wire wide
band sensors so they can be internally heated especially when slipped into
the tail pipe. You haven't spent a bunch of money on the sensor so should
give it a shot. Most good running TR's will read on the rich side.

Rick Patton
rick at pattonmachine.com
http://pattonmachine.com



> Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 7:37 PM
> To: list Triumph
> Subject: [TR] O2 sensor & 'Engine Exhaust Gas Analyzer'
>
>
> List,
> Without knowing if it will work or not, I went ahead and ordered a Oxygen
> Sensor for my car:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=
> &item=25022
> 1126650
>
> You see, I already have a NOS 'Engine Exhaust Gas Analyzer'
> (which has never
> been used and looks out of the '80's-maybe older).  Perhaps this
> instrument
> would be all I would need for playing with my tuning
> 'down-the-road', so to
> speak.  But I thought, just in case, this SINGLE WIRE OXYGEN
> SENSOR might be
> of some value.  At this time I only 'think I know' that 14.7
> parts oxygen to 1
> part fuel is suppose to be the ideal mixture.  (You better MOVE
> OVER Randall,
> buddy!!) j.k.
>
> Seriously, does anyone know anything about whether using these two things
> togather might be possible?
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Dorsey
> 60 TR3

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun Mar 30 19:02:19 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 20:02:19 -0600
Subject: [TR] I'm sure the one-liners will peel off from this...
Message-ID: <47F0462B.4020906@dfn.com>

... as easily as strips of rubber from an overheated tire:


http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/sport/formula_1/article3649197.ece


I wonder if Mr. Mosley will say that he was just doing private research 
on the best instrument for measuring in-tank fuel temperature?   :) 


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Mar 30 19:34:26 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 02:34:26 +0000
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair   fund
Message-ID: <033120080234.13628.47F04DB200069B430000353C2213539653970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Bob Labuz <yellowtr at adelphia.net> 

> Irv, 
> 
> You guys are so lucky to be working on that car. It sounds like fun when a 
> bunch of guys get together for a job like this. 
> 
> How many do you have in the crew? 

There were 11 of us today, the suspension team and the interior team. 2 weeks ago, we had 11 also. I'm not sure how many have signed up to help, but there are at least 25 people who have volunteered on this project.

 
> Now are we going to have to organize another fundraiser for all the beer you 
> must be drinking? 

Actually, I don't think anyone had any beer today until we were finished with the work. We had some very excellent lasagna, courtesy of Mrs. Stagmeiser.

I'm sure photos will be posted somewhere soon.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL
34 years and counting in ISOA, and I'm still having fun

From tr3driver at ca.rr.com  Sun Mar 30 20:40:24 2008
From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 19:40:24 -0800
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor & 'Engine Exhaust Gas Analyzer'
In-Reply-To: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCMEMFGAAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>
Message-ID: <20080331024054.TGHT25784.mta9.adelphia.net@randall>

>  from optimum of 14.7.

Actually, 14.7 is "optimum" only to a chemist or a catalytic converter.  It
provides neither best power nor best fuel economy, which I assume are the
only things TRactor motor owners are interested in tuning for.

That said, I tried mounting one on my 59 TR3A just for curiosity sake.  It
was fun to play with, but relatively useless for tuning, IMO.

Randall

From areich at telus.net  Sun Mar 30 23:09:55 2008
From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich)
Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 23:09:55 -0700
Subject: [TR] Fan Blade bolts torque settings
Message-ID: <47F08033.1020904@telus.net>

Greetings ... just re-installing the fan blade on my TR3A and cannot 
find the torque settings in the Red "Service Instruction Manual" or 
Haynes Triumph TR2, etc Owners Workshop Manual.
I was guessing on about 18 ft/lbs but anybody know actual value?
Thanks
Allan Reich
1960 TR3A TS65713L (with added "O")

From spamiam at comcast.net  Mon Mar 31 05:43:54 2008
From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 12:43:54 +0000
Subject: [TR] O2 sensor & 'Engine Exhaust Gas Analyzer'
Message-ID: <033120081243.5378.47F0DC8A000583AE000015022207021633030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net>

Paul,

I think that using an O2 sensor is a great idea.  BUT, first off, the standard sensor has a minimal region of linear response, so for the mest part you will only read "rich" or "lean".

A wide-band sensor has a much longer (mostly) linear region.  But you need some special electronics to drive and read it.  There are a few different devices such as this around.  I have one of these:  http://www.innovatemotorsports.com

It works well, and I use the adapter that allows you to sitck it up the tailpipe to get your readings.  Unfortunately, it does require a reasonably well sealed exhaust system.

I found that the local gasoline with ethanol added clearly needs richer needles on the carbs.  About 5% righer overall.  It seems we have 10% ethanol in the gas.  The sensor works really well.

-Tony

From cfmtr3a at verizon.net  Mon Mar 31 05:35:41 2008
From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 08:35:41 -0400
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair  fund
In-Reply-To: <033020082111.363.47F001FF00062F270000016B2200762302970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <033020082111.363.47F001FF00062F270000016B2200762302970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4AE2110CB69D4DEFB82438734A006564@CarlPC>

It would be great if you (or someone) created a web page with updates / 
pictures / etc. for us who are interested in its progress but to far distant 
to "pop in"...

Thanks
Carl


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6pack" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund


> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
>
>> Many thanks to all of you who contributed generously to this effort.
>>
>> We have also received donations from many who did not even make pledges.
>>
>> thank you again!
>>
>> we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would really appreciate
>> receiving the donations of those of you who pledged but have not yet
>> contributed.
>>
>> The stag has been acquired; from what I understand its now in kit form!
> As of today, the entire drivetrain, suspension, and interior have been 
> removed from the Stag. Also, the bonnet, windshield, all lights, and t-bar 
> are off, and much of the trim. There isn't much more than a bare tub right 
> now. We had a very productive day today.
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From william.f.daehler at delphi.com  Mon Mar 31 08:39:06 2008
From: william.f.daehler at delphi.com (Daehler, William F)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:39:06 -0500
Subject: [TR] TR4 Yellow Fan upgrade completed
Message-ID: <FC5F7CB48A86D046B265B989D2FD435B6F0F32@uswimke-ex01.mil.acr.gmeds.com>

This project was mostly straightforward, but there were some inevitable
hiccups.

During the hot summer months in Wisconsin I had been fighting a marginal
over-heating problem on my TR4.  On a really hot day I found myself
carefully planning my trips to avoid catching three stop lights in a
row, preferring to use the wide open road.

There had been discussion on the implementation of the TR6 yellow fan as
an recognizable upgrade from the four crude slaps of sheet metal that I
was issued with..  I am a thorough list lurker, and was aware of the
electric fan alternative, but was not too eager to go down the road of
removing the hub extension (possible English vibration dampener), adding
a thermostat control circuit, the alternator upgrade and ripping out the
Lucas control box, etc etc.

The direction I choose was to buy a yellow fan and a TR3 hub extension
on EBay.  This hub is about 3/4" shorter than the TR4 hub, which allows
for the extra thickness of the eight bladed fan.

I drained and pulled the radiator, and went at it.  The unexpected
problem that I ran into was that while the TR3 hub helpfully shorter, it
was also cast quite a bit stockier than the TR4 hub.   When I mounted it
to the crankshaft, this hub was sitting on the steering rack, like it
almost does anyway with two year old motor mounts.

Using some gage blocks at work I was able to determine how much extra
material I could turn off on a lathe, which I had done. A little spray
paint on the machined area, some reassembly and I was done. Back in with
the radiator and a refill.  Wow, the price of anti-freeze is up!  $12.99
a gallon.

I started the engine, yes I do have to use a little ether, after sitting
through the Wisconsin winter for five months, and watched the yellow fan
run true.  Mission accomplished!  That yellow fan stirs up quite a bit
of air!


Will in Wisconsin
63 TR4 Powder Blue




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From pboldtrix at juno.com  Mon Mar 31 08:39:19 2008
From: pboldtrix at juno.com (Phil Bacon)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 15:39:19 GMT
Subject: [TR] I'm sure the one-liners will peel off from this...
Message-ID: <20080331.113919.8326.0@webmail19.vgs.untd.com>

-- Michael Porter <mdporter at dfn.com> wrote:
... as easily as strips of rubber from an overheated tire:


http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/sport/formula_1/article3649197.ece


I wonder if Mr. Mosley will say that he was just doing private research
on the best instrument for measuring in-tank fuel temperature?   :)


Cheers.

--


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Oh goodie!....we haven't had such a potentially big flap-doodle since the
Profumo/Christine Keeler/Mandy Rice-Davies affair in the 60s.  I was beginning
to think the Brits weren't trying.
_____________________________________________________________
Fast Computer Training. Click here.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iieZ18AJfaNAIEr67Qvnjpokvo8c
c6IPC0Lc89Bn0rnuoQ2hF/

From auprichard at comcast.net  Mon Mar 31 09:48:19 2008
From: auprichard at comcast.net (auprichard at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 16:48:19 +0000
Subject: [TR] TR3 fender to bonnet clearance
Message-ID: <033120081648.13213.47F115D3000AF9310000339D22070032010B9D0E080C079D9F9A0E@comcast.net>

Frank:
Having just gone through this on my car (almost ready to paint), my suggestion is to try to take the entirety of the car's forward compartment and not just one gap here or malalignment there.

Randall's comments on the curvature of the bonnet and air flap are great, but look at the gestald:
- are the front wings / fenders splayed from an earlier front-end collision?
- is the bonnet straight ?  One I had was warped and acted as an oilcan.  To get the right curvature I used windscreen rubber glue to attach two strong strips to the underside.
-  is the cowl symmetrical ? Have you fitted the windscreen stanchions and frame and does it sit straight ?

The holes on my cowl and bonnet were so ground out I filled them in and started afresh.  Bonnet now opens and closes fine.  Like I said earlier, bodywork is a pain (but rewarding when you eventually get it right).

Andrew

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: FGFO1 at aol.com 

> well I fixed my front apron. cut the tie bar bracket from the inner wing and 
> repositioned it. looking good. all dimensions within 1/8" now. 
> now I'm looking at the gap between the bonnet and the front fender, all 
> along the sides. someplace's its tight 1/8". other places its horrible 3/4". 
> I 
> can make it right. but what's right? or what's nominal? 
> I don't have the fender bead to play with to figure out how much space it 
> takes up or if it looks good at say 1/4". 
> however wide it is, its equally covering both the fender and the apron. when 
> we get to the bonnet the bigger part of 1/2 of it takes up some of the space 
> between the bonnet and fender. how much space? what's the fender bead 
> dimension? 
> love to hear your dimensions. 
> also what tricks have you guys pulled to stop the back of the bonnet rubbing 
> against the cowl when opening? i don't have room to elongate the holes and 
> move the bonnet forward. too close to the apron already. shim the hinge to 
> cowl? or ? 
> thanks 
> Frank 
> 
> 
> 
> **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL 
> Home. 
> (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030 
> 000000001) 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register 
> http://www.vtr.org 
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs 
> 
> You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 31 11:00:41 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 13:00:41 -0500
Subject: [TR] [6pack] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair  fund
References: <033020082111.363.47F001FF00062F270000016B2200762302970A9D010507@comcast.net>
	<4AE2110CB69D4DEFB82438734A006564@CarlPC>
Message-ID: <001601c89359$23b228f0$800101df@garage.local>

this site will be closing but another site will be opening chronicling the 
effort.

stay tuned!!!!!


> It would be great if you (or someone) created a web page with updates / 
> pictures / etc. for us who are interested in its progress but to far 
> distant to "pop in"...
>
> Thanks
> Carl
>
>
>>>
>>> we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would really 
>>> appreciate
>>> receiving the donations of those of you who pledged but have not yet
>>> contributed.

From 60TR3A at cox.net  Mon Mar 31 15:04:13 2008
From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 15:04:13 -0700
Subject: [TR] 59 TR3 in Central AZ
Message-ID: <4266CE58-4283-40FD-B72F-2EF765E39790@cox.net>

A colleague at work who knows I have a TR3 sent this to me.  NFI

email this posting to a friendphoenix craigslist > cars & trucks
please flag with care:

miscategorized
prohibited
spam/overpost
best of craigslist
Avoid scams and fraud by dealing locally! Beware any deal involving  
Western Union, Moneygram, wire transfer, cashier check, money order,  
shipping, escrow, or any promise of transaction protection/ 
certification/guarantee. More info
1959 Triumph TR3 - $850

Reply to: see below
Date: 2008-03-30, 6:55PM MST


1959 Triumph TR3

Complete, needs restoration

$850.00 OBO

Please call for more information @ 928-978-4528

Thank you!

John A. Wise
Glendale, AZ

1960 Triumph TR3A
Commission No: TS80422L
http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/
http://www.triumphowners.com/876

1977 Porsche 911S
http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/

From andygraybeal at earthlink.net  Mon Mar 31 19:14:25 2008
From: andygraybeal at earthlink.net (Andy Graybeal)
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 19:14:25 -0700
Subject: [TR] Yellow fan on a TR4
Message-ID: <209C36A6-BAD3-4EEC-941E-8A9C2B5E08EA@earthlink.net>

Interesting account.
I have installed a yellow fan on my TR4 as well. First about five  
years ago and again, improving clearances when I replaced my  
generator with an alternator. The fan misses the radiator core by a  
little more than 1/8th of an inch. Most would say that is way too  
close, but I haven't had any trouble. I do watch my motor mounts  
pretty carefully, though.

Andy Graybeal
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
Celebrating our 50th year.