From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jun 1 05:41:21 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 07:41:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? In-Reply-To: <008901c8c399$096f97a0$8115a8c0@garage.local> References: <20503325-0CB4-494E-AA7E-FD1E2F2A33CB@mac.com><009d01c8c362$792972f0$8701a8c0@Dell> <008901c8c399$096f97a0$8115a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <000b01c8c3dc$6c6f8b10$210110ac@bobspc> Oliver, Joe Curry made up a bunch of the cling type decals about 7 or 8 years ago. Maybe he still has some extras hanging around. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 11:31 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? there's an email list decal????????? > My 3 year old grandson just sent me a picture of a TR3A he saw at the > library today, he lives in Carmel, Indiana. I can see the email group > decal on the windshield, so if you are still on the list, just wanted > to say nice car, and thanks for taking it out and stimulating the > interest of the youngest generation. Since I'm in CA, he doesn't get > to play with my cars very often > > Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1476 - Release Date: 5/31/2008 12:25 PM From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Sun Jun 1 05:11:15 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (Barry Schwartz) Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2008 05:11:15 Subject: [TR] P/N 102801 In-Reply-To: <20080531182503.SMZD25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall > Message-ID: <3.0.4.16.20080601051115.194f36d0@pop.west.cox.net> Randall, The Spitfire changed to these type of thrust washers in the later 70's. While they don't break or fall apart, I found that they do tend to get compressed slightly (or wear more) giving a tiny bit more of clearance over time making for a rattly spider gear assy. I try not to use them if I have the bronze ones available. In fact I'll use good bronze ones over the "phenolic" type if I have a choice - The bronze ones keep the spiders gears nice and tight over the life of the unit - ***************original message****************************** >These are the thrust washers that the side gears in the differential ride >against. The originals in my Stag differential were brass (or bronze), but >the replacements appear to be plastic of some sort (perhaps reinforced >phenolic). They fit perfectly, so no doubt they were intended for this >application, but ... > >Anyone know if the plastic ones hold up OK ? Barry Schwartz La Mesa, CA (San Diego) From banc8004 at comcast.net Sun Jun 1 06:26:44 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (Brian Jones) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 08:26:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electrical Issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3F5D742F-8AD4-42CB-9910-775EDABBF68B@comcast.net> While I'd like to hold the Prince of Darkness responsible for my issue, its far more likely something I have done. I am puzzled, and wonder if anyone has a suggestion for resolution. I reversed polarity on my car, following the set of directions available anywhere one might wish to look. However, my car is no longer charging. I have been using the Lucas Fault Diagnosis Service Manual (actually a facsimile of same that someone photocopies and sells at some profit on ebay). The step-by-step testing tells me: The armature circuit is 'almost' in range: 1.1 - 1.2V at 1500 revs (should be 1.5 to 3.0V). I put this down to a somewhat tired 45 year- old unit. The field circuit is in range (delivering 2A at about 12V) The dynamo leads are OK (if having been previously butchered by a PO, when the 6" pigtails at the dynamo end of the loom were cut off, inexplicably, then poorly reattached). However, when I come to compensated voltage control, here is where things fall down. The directions for test this are: Remove and join the A and A1 leads, connect a voltmeter between D and earth, and increase the speed to get regulation voltage of about 16 - 16.5 volts. I get nothing, nada, nichts. The diagnosis suggests.... A faulty control box earth, however, the earth lead on terminal E is good. An open circuit shunt winding. If I have an 'open circuit shunt winding' what do I need to do to fix it? I manually closed the coil on the control box (engine off, battery connected) and immediately had begun to let the smoke out of the loom, on the smaller wire on D that feeds.....the ignition light. What have I done to cause this failure? Any and all suggestions welcome. I am tempted to go back to positive ground just to see if things right themselves.... Brian 1963 TR4 From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sun Jun 1 06:28:43 2008 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 08:28:43 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Engine Still Seized Message-ID: I have read what others have written about seized engines. Here is my story. 10 or so years ago I bought a TR3A that had been sitting outside under a "tarp". The carbs were full of leaves/mud dobber nests and the interior was just about non existent. The engine was also seized. I took all the plugs out and did all of the normal things. Marvel, penetrating oil, you name it. I finally put it in gear and rocked it and it broke loose. I rebuilt the carbs (another story), changed the oil, did a tune up, and put the gas line to the pump in a can of gas under the car. When I tried to crank the car with the starter, the starter was froze. I took a 2 X 4 and placed it on the end of the offending piece and gave it a smart smack with a hammer. It worked. The car cranked and fired. It spit what remained of the innards of the muffler about 20 feet behind the car. I came up with 80 lbs. oil pressure and settled out at 180 degrees temp. It was a memorable evening when it lit off. Sam and Carol Clark Green Country Triumphs TS45355L O CC82030U O Cell: 918-625-6798 **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From terryrs at comcast.net Sun Jun 1 06:57:06 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2008 12:57:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] GT6 Engine Still Seized Message-ID: <060120081257.22369.48429CA20006953F0000576122155863949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Great story, Sam! Just curious, how long were you able to run the same engine before you had to do anything to it? I'm wondering whether the place where the rings had frozen to the cylinder wall had any effect..... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com > I have read what others have written about seized engines. Here is my story. > 10 or so years ago I bought a TR3A that had been sitting outside under a > "tarp". The carbs were full of leaves/mud dobber nests and the interior was > just about non existent. The engine was also seized. I took all the plugs out > and did all of the normal things. Marvel, penetrating oil, you name it. I > finally put it in gear and rocked it and it broke loose. I rebuilt the carbs > (another story), changed the oil, did a tune up, and put the gas line to the > pump in a can of gas under the car. When I tried to crank the car with the > starter, the starter was froze. I took a 2 X 4 and placed it on the end of > the offending piece and gave it a smart smack with a hammer. It worked. The > car cranked and fired. It spit what remained of the innards of the muffler > about 20 feet behind the car. I came up with 80 lbs. oil pressure and settled > out at 180 degrees temp. It was a memorable evening when it lit off. > > Sam and Carol Clark > Green Country Triumphs > TS45355L O > CC82030U O > Cell: 918-625-6798 > > > > > > > > > **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with > Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. > (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sun Jun 1 07:29:49 2008 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 09:29:49 EDT Subject: [TR] GT6 Engine Still Seized Message-ID: I ended up selling the car to someone else before it was restored. I know at one point he put in a milk crate for a seat and drove it around. Don't know what ever happened to it. When it started it didn't smoke so . . . Could be the difference between a TRactor engine and others. Sam and Carol Clark Green Country Triumphs TS45355L O CC82030U O Cell: 918-625-6798 In a message dated 6/1/2008 7:57:21 A.M. Central Daylight Time, terryrs at comcast.net writes: Great story, Sam! Just curious, how long were you able to run the same engine before you had to do anything to it? I'm wondering whether the place where the rings had frozen to the cylinder wall had any effect..... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com > I have read what others have written about seized engines. Here is my story. > 10 or so years ago I bought a TR3A that had been sitting outside under a > "tarp". The carbs were full of leaves/mud dobber nests and the interior was > just about non existent. The engine was also seized. I took all the plugs out > and did all of the normal things. Marvel, penetrating oil, you name it. I > finally put it in gear and rocked it and it broke loose. I rebuilt the carbs > (another story), changed the oil, did a tune up, and put the gas line to the > pump in a can of gas under the car. When I tried to crank the car with the > starter, the starter was froze. I took a 2 X 4 and placed it on the end of > the offending piece and gave it a smart smack with a hamme r. It worked. The > car cranked and fired. It spit what remained of the innards of the muffler > about 20 feet behind the car. I came up with 80 lbs. oil pressure and settled > out at 180 degrees temp. It was a memorable evening when it lit off. > > Sam and Carol Clark > Green Country Triumphs > TS45355L O > CC82030U O > Cell: 918-625-6798 > > > > > > > > > **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with > Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. > (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/ma ilman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Sun Jun 1 08:06:20 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 14:06:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized In-Reply-To: <20080531220216.RVG21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net> <20080531220216.RVG21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: This is probably grasping at straws. Since you probably have the spark plugs out get a fitting for an air hose that screws into a spark plug hole. Then connect a 150# air line to the fitting and see if you can get some movement from apply the pressure to the piston. Best regards, Tom > From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 15:02:16 -0700 > Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 engine still seized > > > I tried putting the car in 1st gear and all I can get is the > > car to slid not able to get it to move forward at all. > > Actually, 4th gear works better for this; better mechanical advantage. > > > When > > I garaged the car all was well. Not sure why everything is > > seized and not sure where to go from here. I tried all the > > previous suggestions so now I need something new. > > Unfortunately, Jerry, I think it's time to pull the head off and get the bad > news. > > Not that it's any consolation, but I've seen it before. Many years ago, a > friend went off to the Army and left his MGA with a freshly rebuilt motor > parked at my place. When I tried to move it a couple months later, the > engine was locked solid. Ultimately he had to break one of the brand-new > pistons to get it out of the bore. > > The problem is that there are always cylinders with the valves open, > exposing them to outside air. With changes in barometric pressure, > temperature and humidity, dew forms inside the cylinder; which has bare, > dissimilar metals in close contact. If the oil film gets washed away, the > result is corrosion. And what seems most ironic, it's "fresh" engines that > seem mostly prone to this problem. Old, tired engines have a coating of > varnish on everything ... > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tswhitez123 at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Give to a good cause with every e-mail. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?souce=EML_WL_ GoodCause From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 1 08:58:34 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 10:58:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Damper O-rings? Message-ID: In a message dated 5/31/2008 5:28:23 PM Central Daylight Time, moira.secrest at verizon.net writes: > Stromberg CD 150's. Somewhere I remember reading there's a little o-ring > in > the bottom of the piston that keeps in the damper oil? If so, how to > access? Mine are completely shot. I assume I can get replacements off the > shelf .. if I can get them out? > The O-rings are included in the rebuild kits. If you are like me you have consolidated all the leftover parts from all the kits you have bought and placed them in the bottom of a box somewhere in the garage. Replacing the O-rings requires removal of the needle and needle adjuster. Remove the screw on the side of the piston and back off the needle adjuster completely to remove the needle. The retaining screw is brass and can snap off in which case you got trouble so take great care. With the needle out of the way push the adjuster out of the bore of the damper from the needle end using a properly sized dowel rod. There is a speed nut (actually in inverse of the speed nut, it grips on the OD, not the ID) keeping the adjuster located at the bottom of the bore and it will take an uncomfortable amount of force to push it out but it will come out. Do not loose the speed nut. With the adjuster out of the bore the O-ring will be apparent and removal and replacement is straight forward. Assembly is the reverse of the above. Good luck. Dave Massey 57 TR3 71 TR6 80 TR8 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 1 08:59:15 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 07:59:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Electrical Issue In-Reply-To: <3F5D742F-8AD4-42CB-9910-775EDABBF68B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080601145915.GGGP21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I manually closed the coil on the control box (engine off, battery > connected) and immediately had begun to let the smoke out of > the loom, on the smaller wire on D that feeds.....the ignition light. > > What have I done to cause this failure? Aha, the light dawns. You must have a short to ground somewhere in the yellow wire between the control box and the warning light. Try disconnecting it at the control box (which will just disable the light, not the charging). Perhaps something shorted while you were swapping leads on the ammeter. But, it seems to me that you (or the document you have) has skipped a step. Try removing the F and D wires from the control box, jumpering them together with a voltmeter to ground, and starting the engine. You should see 15v by raising engine rpm just slightly (no more than 1500 rpm). Don't let it go over 20v, though. BTW, it's unusual for generators to degrade gracefully the way old engines do. Any minor fault tends to turn into a major one quickly. But, the 1.1 - 1.2 might indicate only that the residual magnetism in the housing is somewhat weak, due to the recent polarity change, so I doubt it's anything to worry about. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 1 09:16:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 08:16:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] P/N 102801 In-Reply-To: <3.0.4.16.20080601051115.194f36d0@pop.west.cox.net> Message-ID: <20080601151607.EJUU21231.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Thanks, Barry. Unfortunately, the ones I took out were rather worn, only about .042" while the replacements were close to .050". Anyone know of a source for the metal ones ? Randall From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jun 1 09:26:40 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 08:26:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? In-Reply-To: <000b01c8c3dc$6c6f8b10$210110ac@bobspc> References: <20503325-0CB4-494E-AA7E-FD1E2F2A33CB@mac.com><009d01c8c362$792972f0$8701a8c0@Dell><008901c8c399$096f97a0$8115a8c0@garage.local> <000b01c8c3dc$6c6f8b10$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000001c8c3fb$e4200350$0302a8c0@newcomputer> Yes I have a large stash that I made up extra so that I don't have to run them again for a while. I have both the static cling (for inside of glass) and sticky back for $3.00 each (Includes postage inside the US) I also have a few of the grill badges left. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 4:41 AM To: 'Oliver'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? Oliver, Joe Curry made up a bunch of the cling type decals about 7 or 8 years ago. Maybe he still has some extras hanging around. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 11:31 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Powder blue TR3A in Carmel Indiana? there's an email list decal????????? > My 3 year old grandson just sent me a picture of a TR3A he saw at the > library today, he lives in Carmel, Indiana. I can see the email group > decal on the windshield, so if you are still on the list, just wanted > to say nice car, and thanks for taking it out and stimulating the > interest of the youngest generation. Since I'm in CA, he doesn't get > to play with my cars very often > > Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1476 - Release Date: 5/31/2008 12:25 PM This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sun Jun 1 09:56:11 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 08:56:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap Message-ID: <546590339CB749C0AB6359ED2A918917@GeoPC> I believe the dwell for a correct TR4 distributor is usually quoted as 60* or else as a range centered on that such as 57* - 63*. Points gap is either .015 or a range of .014 - .016 depending on where one looks. I have always set the gap and thus ignored the dwell but recently I looked at both. I find that I cannot adjust to both specs. A .015 gap yields a dwell of 48* --- a 60* dwell can only be achieved with a .008 gap. Either way, once I re-adjust the timing, the engine runs fine. Maybe not exactly as well each way but any difference is beyond my notice. Soooo... which way do I set it? Or do I split the difference? Since the relationship between gap and dwell would seem to be purely mechanical based on the shape of that little cam in the dizzy it doesn't suggest to me that anything is really wrong. For now I went with the 60* dwell and skinnier gap. My thinking is that dwell is the thing that is relevant to spark and gap is just a simple way to set the dwell w/o an instrument. My only concern with that is that the .008 gap leaves a much smaller margin for the gap to close up as the piece of the points set that rides on the cam wears dowm or as the points loosen over time. No I don't want a Pertronix, having so much fun with this set-up. Geo From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 1 15:46:03 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 14:46:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <546590339CB749C0AB6359ED2A918917@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20080601214603.KEYL21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > I find that I cannot adjust to both specs. A .015 gap yields > a dwell of 48* > --- a 60* dwell can only be achieved with a .008 gap. Although it's possible that the point cam is that badly worn, My suggestion would be that there is something wrong with the dwell measurement. Can you see wear marks in the face of the point cam (ie a difference in height between where the rubbing block rubs, and where it doesn't) ? > Soooo... which way do I set it? Personally, I'd set the gap per the book and let the dwell fall where it may. Might borrow a buddy's dwell meter too ... Randall From fishplate at charter.net Sun Jun 1 16:43:44 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2008 18:43:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <546590339CB749C0AB6359ED2A918917@GeoPC> References: <546590339CB749C0AB6359ED2A918917@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20080601224311.XKEY3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 11:56 AM 6/1/2008, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: >I believe the dwell for a correct TR4 distributor is usually quoted as 60* or >else as a range centered on that such as 57* - 63*. Points gap is either .015 >or a range of .014 - .016 depending on where one looks. 60 degrees sounds like a lot of dwell...are you sure about that? I would guess 45 to 50 degrees would be more likely... >I have always set the gap and thus ignored the dwell but recently I looked at >both. > >I find that I cannot adjust to both specs. A .015 gap yields a dwell of 48* >--- a 60* dwell can only be achieved with a .008 gap. I always set the gap, then fine-tune with a dwell meter. >Either way, once I re-adjust the timing, the engine runs fine. Maybe not >exactly as well each way but any difference is beyond my notice. > >Soooo... which way do I set it? Or do I split the difference? Since the >relationship between gap and dwell would seem to be purely mechanical based on >the shape of that little cam in the dizzy it doesn't suggest to me that >anything is really wrong. The relation is purely mechanical as you suggest, but... there are many things that can affect the measurement... Make sure the points are smooth - no pits, depositions, or wear of one contact into the other. Any of these could affect the ability to get a feeler blade between them without changing the effective dwell. Make sure the lobes on the distributor are smooth and unworn. Are the points uncontaminated with the grease you put behind the rubbing block? Make sure your dwell meter is operating correctly, possibly by testing it on another car. >No I don't want a Pertronix, having so much fun with this set-up. As long as you're having fun... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jun 1 18:13:08 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 20:13:08 EDT Subject: [TR] SU Carb Spacers Message-ID: I made my deadline of getting the body tub on the chassis on my 3A. June 1 was the target and June 1 it is. While the body was off I bought K&N air filters and now find that the only way they will fit is with the fiber carb spacers removed. What trouble am I asking for here. Returning the filters is not an option as I have run the motor with the body off (and the filters on). ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Sun Jun 1 18:27:24 2008 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2008 20:27:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize In-Reply-To: <00ae01c8c369$b35629d0$8701a8c0@Dell> References: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net> <00ae01c8c369$b35629d0$8701a8c0@Dell> Message-ID: <48433E6C.2010102@verizon.net> Everyone- Bob - Hit it on the head!!! I removed the starter and damn if the engine didn't turn super easy by hand. Course the Marvel oil down into the spark ports probably helps. So now I have a two part question. I have clean out the spark ports by trying to siphon back out the oil using a hand oil pump. Then I drained the oil from the sump and will refill with clean oil and new filter. Do I need to do anything else before trying to fire the engine back up? Little concerned about excess mystery oil in the engine. Will that burn off with little effect on the engine? My second question regards the starter. I guess it's done since it won't engage the flywheel and turn over the engine. I have cleaned it and tested it by attaching it to a 12 volt battery and seeing it extend out to full travel. It seems to be okay but for whatever reason it is not turning the engine over. What am I missing? Jerry Kinderlehrer wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerrold Le Tourneau" > > To: > Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 2:35 PM > Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized > > >> Hello all - >> >> Well, I 've trying the Marvel Mystery oil for a week now and still can't >> turn the engine by hand. I am pretty sure the clutch is not engaged. I >> move the car when in neutral. I tried putting the car in 1st gear and >> all I can get is the car to slid not able to get it to move forward at >> all. When I garaged the car all was well. Not sure why everything is >> seized and not sure where to go from here. I tried all the previous >> suggestions so now I need something new. >> >> Jerry >> >> 68 GT6 Mk1 > > > I don't remember if you said the starter was spinning or not, but it > is something that could cause the engine to lock up like you describe, > at least on a TR3. Might be worth removing the starter just to make > sure the gear isn't jammed into the flywheel. > Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jun 1 18:46:17 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 20:46:17 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU Carb Spacers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200806012046.17796.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 01 June 2008 08:13 pm, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > I made my deadline of getting the body tub on the chassis on my 3A. June 1 > was the target and June 1 it is. > While the body was off I bought K&N air filters and now find that the only > way they will fit is with the fiber carb spacers removed. What trouble am > I asking for here. > Returning the filters is not an option as I have run the motor with the > body off (and the filters on). > > Hello, Do you have the std 3 3A intake manifold or the later TR4A version? The 4A intake is a bit longer than the 3 and 4 intake. If you have the 4A intake, this could be where your problem is. I have never run a 3 or a 4 without those spacers. THey are asbestos I think or something similar and act as a insulator I believe. Keeps direct engine heat from the carburators. Anyway, this is what I always thought and may have been wrong all these years. What does the rest of the list say? Bob From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jun 1 19:16:51 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 21:16:51 EDT Subject: [TR] SU Carb Spacers Message-ID: In a message dated 6/1/2008 8:05:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > Do you have the std 3 3A intake manifold or the later TR4A version? The 4A > intake is a bit longer than the 3 and 4 intake. If you have the 4A intake, > this could be where your problem is. > My manifold is 3 3/4" straight line measure from the top edge of the motor side flange to the top edge of the filter side flange. ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4& ?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jun 1 19:22:44 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 21:22:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] SU Carb Spacers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200806012122.44740.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 01 June 2008 09:16 pm, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 6/1/2008 8:05:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, > > yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > > Do you have the std 3 3A intake manifold or the later TR4A version? The > > 4A intake is a bit longer than the 3 and 4 intake. If you have the 4A > > intake, this could be where your problem is. > > My manifold is 3 3/4" straight line measure from the top edge of the motor > side flange to the top edge of the filter side flange. > > That is the std 3 intake manifold. How thick are these air filters anyway? I am guessing just the front one hits the fender well? Maybe you need to carefully dent in the fender well to accomodate the filters? I did this years ago when fitting the 4A intake manifold + the 4A header exhaust manifold. Not the best solution but maybe the only one to use if you really want to use the K & Ns. Bob From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jun 1 20:39:05 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 19:39:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize In-Reply-To: <48433E6C.2010102@verizon.net> References: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net><00ae01c8c369$b35629d0$8701a8c0@Dell> <48433E6C.2010102@verizon.net> Message-ID: <000801c8c459$d310b4c0$0302a8c0@newcomputer> If you leave the plugs out and spin the engine as fast as the starter will turn it, you will probably evacuate most of the oil and certainly enough to keep the plugs from fouling. As for the starter issue, I can only say that if it is the right starter and it does throw out the bendix when turning, it should be ok. If it contacts the flywheel it should spin the engine, particularly if the plugs are out. Good Luck, Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerrold Le Tourneau Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 5:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: Kinderlehrer Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize Everyone- Bob - Hit it on the head!!! I removed the starter and damn if the engine didn't turn super easy by hand. Course the Marvel oil down into the spark ports probably helps. So now I have a two part question. I have clean out the spark ports by trying to siphon back out the oil using a hand oil pump. Then I drained the oil from the sump and will refill with clean oil and new filter. Do I need to do anything else before trying to fire the engine back up? Little concerned about excess mystery oil in the engine. Will that burn off with little effect on the engine? My second question regards the starter. I guess it's done since it won't engage the flywheel and turn over the engine. I have cleaned it and tested it by attaching it to a 12 volt battery and seeing it extend out to full travel. It seems to be okay but for whatever reason it is not turning the engine over. What am I missing? Jerry Kinderlehrer wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerrold Le Tourneau" > > To: > Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 2:35 PM > Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized > > >> Hello all - >> >> Well, I 've trying the Marvel Mystery oil for a week now and still can't >> turn the engine by hand. I am pretty sure the clutch is not engaged. I >> move the car when in neutral. I tried putting the car in 1st gear and >> all I can get is the car to slid not able to get it to move forward at >> all. When I garaged the car all was well. Not sure why everything is >> seized and not sure where to go from here. I tried all the previous >> suggestions so now I need something new. >> >> Jerry >> >> 68 GT6 Mk1 > > > I don't remember if you said the starter was spinning or not, but it > is something that could cause the engine to lock up like you describe, > at least on a TR3. Might be worth removing the starter just to make > sure the gear isn't jammed into the flywheel. > Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Sun Jun 1 21:07:43 2008 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2008 23:07:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize In-Reply-To: <8CA92739EEFC67F-8B0-25B0@mblk-d23.sysops.aol.com> References: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net> <00ae01c8c369$b35629d0$8701a8c0@Dell> <48433E6C.2010102@verizon.net> <8CA92739EEFC67F-8B0-25B0@mblk-d23.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <484363FF.7020601@verizon.net> Andrew- No the spacer is there. I turn the ignition key and hear a whirling sound but no engine engagement. Jerry GT6 Mk1 Andrew Mace wrote: > -----Original Message----- > From: Jerrold Le Tourneau > > My second question regards the starter. I guess it's done since it > won't engage the flywheel and turn over the engine. I have cleaned it > and tested it by attaching it to a 12 volt battery and seeing it extend > out to full travel. It seems to be okay but for whatever reason it is > not turning the engine over. What am I missing? > > ==AM== > A truly wild-a**sed guess here: any chance you do NOT have the spacer > between the starter and engine back plate? > > --Andy Mace > > *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? > *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, > Triumph Herald engine with wings. > -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) > > Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph > Herald Database at its new URL: From WCA09 at aol.com Mon Jun 2 03:02:51 2008 From: WCA09 at aol.com (WCA09 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 05:02:51 EDT Subject: [TR] Wanted - TR3A Rear Apron for Comm. No. 73910 Message-ID: I'm looking for a TR3A rear apron for commission numbers greater than 60000. Does anyone have one available or know where I might find one? My current apron is dinged up and about half bondo; needs to be replaced. I would very much appreciate any leads you can provide. You can purchase new aprons for 3A's with commission numbers less than 60000, but they are rather pricey, and I understand there are differences in trunk channel configuration that make it difficult to fit on post 60000 c. n. cars. Has anyone tried to fit one of the new aprons on a post 60000 c. n. car? Tough job? Again, any help would be appreciated. Bill A. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From spamiam at comcast.net Mon Jun 2 06:38:40 2008 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 12:38:40 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap Message-ID: <060220081238.19813.4843E9D00001F42800004D652200750438030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> >I find that I cannot adjust to both specs. A .015 gap >yields a dwell of 48* >--- a 60* dwell can only be achieved with a .008 gap. Geo, I have found it a little hard to be absolutely positive about the points gap. The spring action is reasonably light, and any position of the feeler away from perfectly parallel with the points electrosed will result is a "tight" feeling. I consider the dwell to be a more accurate measure than feel, as long as your dwell meter is accurate. I would set the dwell to the suggested setting +/- 1 degree, I might prefer a dwell on the lower side of ideal rather than the high side because as the rubbing block wears, the dwell will tend to increase (at least I think it does). Since the TR4 distributor is pretty easy to access, it is not that much of a PITA to adjust and readjust and readjust... until you hit the right dwell. I found that a distributor cap for a 1970 MGB (push-in wires) with magnecore wires made a much bigger difference than the Pertronix Ignitor module for my ignition. Plus the Pertronix magnet wheel(hub?) did not fit as securely as I would have liked on the distributor shaft, and the rotor does not seem to fit as securely with the Pertronix magnet wheel. -Tony -Tony From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jun 2 07:29:15 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 09:29:15 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap Message-ID: Geo, Set the gap for a snug (as opposed to sloppy) .016" and you'll be fine....this setting allows you to get more good running from the engine because it allows the point gap to remain within spec (.014" to .016") as the rubbing block on the point set gradually wears down (and decreases the point gap). I've seen these cars run (barely) with as little as .005" gap. These were largely neglected cars - not the recommended condition for points! As for the dwell angle dilemma - not sure why you're not getting a spec dwell angle reading but if you set the points correctly and the timing is good and the motor runs great - you are there:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/1/2008 9:15:17 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: --- a 60* dwell can only be achieved with a .008 gap **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Jun 2 09:53:55 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 10:53:55 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap Message-ID: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Geo, As others have stated about not getting the correct dwell on the meter, I found myself using the wrong scale for a 6 cylinder engine while reading the 8 cylinder scale. If I remember correctly the 4 cylinder scale is double the 8 cylinder scale reading. Just a thought, Greg Perry From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jun 2 11:46:47 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 13:46:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost> On 2 Jun 2008 at 0:00, Greg Perry wrote: > If I remember correctly the 4 cylinder scale is double > the 8 cylinder scale reading. Good point but it actually depends on how the dwell meter works. If the meter measures the ratio (or the difference) between the on-time and the off-time then dwell would be independent of both rpm and the number of cylinders. If it just measures on-time or off-time and normalizes that against a firing interval then it would depend on how it "knew" the firing interval. An obvious way for the meter to know the firing interval is just to measure it is. Of course, this is the same thing as measuring on- time and off-time, and still means the result is independent of number of cylinders. But if the meter's operating instructions are for the user to adjust the engine to a particular rpm using the meter's tach display, then the #-of-cylinders setting for the tach will affect the rpm display,. So a wrong setting will mean the user is actually measuring dwell at the wrong rpm, thus producing a wrong dwell answer too. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Jun 2 12:54:57 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 13:54:57 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize Message-ID: <1917726.1212432897451.JavaMail.root@elwamui-norfolk.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Jerry, The bendix (aka starter drive) could be bad. The bendix is the part with teeth that engages the flywheel. The clutch in the bendix could fail. Regards, Greg Perry >No the spacer is there. I turn the ignition key and hear a whirling >sound but no engine engagement. > >Jerry From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jun 2 15:09:08 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 17:09:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery or Starter Message-ID: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc> After 10+ years of driving I was finally "stranded" today.......though I did manage to avoid getting put on the tow truck hook. I had just filled up with gas and when I went to start the car all I got was a "click click". No attempt by the starter to turn the engine over. No amount of rocking the car in gear changed anything. Just click click.....sometimes fast and sometimes slow. My wife arrived with the nylon tow straps and give me a short pull at which point I dropped the clutch and it fired right up. This is when I noticed that I had lost all of my radio stations and that the horn sounded very weak. I looked at the battery and noticed that the label was coming off and it was wet-ish on top. The battery is about 8 years old. The starter is 2 years old. I got the car home with no problem but noticed that the volt gauge hovered around 13 instead of it's normal 14+ range during the drive. My multi-meter on the battery shows 12.72 volts with the car shut off. Right now it's completely dead when I turn the key. No click click even. I tried to jump it with my wife's car and got nothing. Checking the battery while turning the key has no impact on the battery reading. The alternator also seemed very hot to the touch but it's a pretty warm day and it was very hot under the hood. Next steps? Suggestions? New battery? New starter? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From fishplate at charter.net Mon Jun 2 15:17:38 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 17:17:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost> References: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost> Message-ID: <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 01:46 PM 6/2/2008, Jim Muller wrote: >If it just measures on-time or off-time and >normalizes that against a firing interval then it would depend on how >it "knew" the firing interval. A dwell meter needs to know how many cylinders there are, either by switch or by scale. My Mac pro meter has separate scales for 4, 6 and 8 cylinders. The dwell angle is the amount of distributor rotation ~per cylinder~ where the points are closed. Typically, that number should be half of the total rotation per cylinder. Bentley sez for TR6, dwell is 35*, open angle is 25* for a total of 60*. 60 x 6 = 360. For the Spitfire, dwell is 51*, open angle is 39* for a total of 90* 90 x 4 = 360. That's why I said that the spec of 60* dwell was suspicious...that only leaves 30* or less for an open angle where the coil charges. Doesn't sound like enough to me... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 2 15:27:59 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 14:27:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] Battery or Starter In-Reply-To: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <186101c8c4f7$87e1d670$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I got the car home with no problem but noticed > that the volt > gauge hovered around 13 instead of it's normal 14+ range > during the drive. > My multi-meter on the battery shows 12.72 volts with the car > shut off. What does it show with it running at fast idle ? What about engine off and headlights on ? > Right > now it's completely dead when I turn the key. No click click > even. I tried > to jump it with my wife's car and got nothing. Checking the > battery while > turning the key has no impact on the battery reading. Sounds to me like you have multiple problems going on. If you were measuring 12.7 volts at the battery with the key turned to the start position, then it's obvious the starter is not working. However it could easily be a bad connection somewhere rather than the starter itself. According to Dan's schematic, a 75 TR6 also had a starter relay which could also be the reason it won't start (or the ignition switch itself). He also showed a join near the seatbelt module that might be troublesome. But that wouldn't explain the appearance of the battery, which sounds suggestive of a shorted cell. > Next steps? Suggestions? I would start (no pun intended) by checking the voltage at the WR wire where it leaves the starter relay for the starter, while a helper holds the key to the start position. If you see 12v here, check again directly at the starter, both from the terminal that gets the WR wire to the starter housing, and from the end of the big stud that gets the battery cable to the housing. If you still find 12v in both places, the starter/solenoid is bad. Change it and try again. Once you get the starter working, you can worry about the battery/alternator. Randall From fishplate at charter.net Mon Jun 2 15:30:46 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 17:30:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery or Starter In-Reply-To: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080602213044.XPJS3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 05:09 PM 6/2/2008, Bob Danielson wrote: >Next steps? Suggestions? New battery? New starter? Clean and tighten the cables. Don't forget the ground. Classic symptoms, it will pass a low-current but not a high current. (Though a battery has probably neared the end of it's service life after 8 years...) Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 2 16:07:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 15:07:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> References: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net><4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost> <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <187d01c8c4fd$1a298dc0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > A dwell meter needs to know how many cylinders there are Right. The problem is that dwell is given as an angle, not as a percent. Without knowing how many cylinders, the meter has no way to know what constitutes a full circle. > That's why I said that the spec of 60* dwell was suspicious...that > only leaves 30* or less for an open angle where the coil > charges. Doesn't sound like enough to me... Perhaps, but 60 seems to be the spec for all Lucas 25D4 dizzys, including those fitted to MGBs and Minis. Randall From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Jun 2 16:36:26 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 16:36:26 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> References: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost> <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <484475EA.1080609@dfn.com> Jeff Scarbrough wrote: > At 01:46 PM 6/2/2008, Jim Muller wrote: > >> If it just measures on-time or off-time and >> normalizes that against a firing interval then it would depend on how >> it "knew" the firing interval. >> > > A dwell meter needs to know how many cylinders there are, either by > switch or by scale. My Mac pro meter has separate scales for 4, 6 > and 8 cylinders. > > The dwell angle is the amount of distributor rotation ~per cylinder~ > where the points are closed. Typically, that number should be half > of the total rotation per cylinder. Bentley sez for TR6, dwell is > 35*, open angle is 25* for a total of 60*. 60 x 6 = 360. For the > Spitfire, dwell is 51*, open angle is 39* for a total of 90* 90 x 4 = 360. > > That's why I said that the spec of 60* dwell was suspicious...that > only leaves 30* or less for an open angle where the coil > charges. Doesn't sound like enough to me... > > > Umm, the distributor turns at one-half crankshaft speed, so it takes 720 deg. of crank travel to complete one full round of the distributor. Measurements based on 360 deg. are in dist. degrees, not crank degrees, just for clarification. Further, the description of dwell open and closed angles is backwards. The coil doesn't charge during the open period, it discharges. When the points are closed (dwell), current is flowing through the coil. More dwell than open is required to saturate the coil, as the figures suggest. The actual time of discharge is quite a bit less than the 25-30 degrees that the points are open. The points are kept open for that period to help them and the coil to cool. So, it's a balance between how long it takes to saturate the coil (during which the points and the coil are heating up because current is passing them) and how long to cool them off. The ideal, of course, is to have as much dwell as possible to ensure coil saturation, without damaging the coil or the rest of the system. That's why many electronic ignitions today will pump dwell up to 70-75 deg. on starting to make sure cold plugs fire, then drops it down to 55-60 deg. or so. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From triumphstag at gmail.com Mon Jun 2 17:19:53 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 00:19:53 +0100 Subject: [TR] A Blue Triumph Dolomite in featured in lastest Madonna video Message-ID: Just happended to watch a Madonna video and featured was a Blue Triumph Dolomite. She's appartently dancing on the roof of the car. My brother said he saw a Triumph 2000 as well. Check it out on youtube http://youtube.com/watch?v=TN7s1q3L-S0&feature=related Sujit From patton at suscom-maine.net Mon Jun 2 18:10:20 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 20:10:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Battery or Starter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Bob, The quick test is to turn on the headlights and try to start the car. If the headlights dim it's likely a battery or wiring connection issue. If there is no effect it's the solenoid or the starter. Hint- if you lost your radio stations and the battery measures 12.72V (a fully charged battery is 12.6V, I'd look over the connections carefully. That said, no matter what, you are on borrowed time on the battery and nobody likes a leaker. A poor ground can cause the battery to over charge and leak as you describe. Rick Patton rick at pattonmachine.com http://pattonmachine.com From mlang99 at comcast.net Mon Jun 2 18:43:40 2008 From: mlang99 at comcast.net (Michael Lang) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 17:43:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wanted - TR3A Rear Apron for Comm. No. 73910 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <484493BC.2080703@comcast.net> I just got done fitting a new rear apron on my pre 60000 TR3. I bought the new apron several years ago from TRF fairly cheap during a sale. As I remember, it was intended to be universal through all commission numbers and had no holes for the turn signals or license plate light due to all of the possible variations. I have been very please with the fit. I really drug my feet getting started because if the intimidation factor, but it went quickly and is now probably the straightest sheet metal on the whole car. For a post 60000 car, you would have to patch in the formed areas for the turn signals. There is a picture of this on page 68 of "How to Restore Triumph TR2 TR3 & TR3A". The new apron came with separate trunk channel strip. It was of the single lip design like the later cars and should match right up with yours. Mine now has the original double lip at the top and sides and the single lip across the bottom. I plan to use the TR4 style push on gasket and I am told that the single lip should work fine. Hope this information helps. Mike WCA09 at aol.com wrote: > I'm looking for a TR3A rear apron for commission numbers greater than 60000. > Does anyone have one available or know where I might find one? My current > apron is dinged up and about half bondo; needs to be replaced. I would very > much appreciate any leads you can provide. > > You can purchase new aprons for 3A's with commission numbers less than > 60000, but they are rather pricey, and I understand there are differences in trunk > channel configuration that make it difficult to fit on post 60000 c. n. cars. > > Has anyone tried to fit one of the new aprons on a post 60000 c. n. car? > Tough job? > > Again, any help would be appreciated. > > Bill A. From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 2 18:54:01 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 00:54:01 +0000 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize Message-ID: <060320080054.5509.48449629000C86010000158522155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Jerrold Le Tourneau > Andrew- > > No the spacer is there. I turn the ignition key and hear a whirling > sound but no engine engagement. Have been following this post with interest, but am confused. The original problem is that the engine would not turn over. Attempts to free it included turning it by hand with the tranny in neutral, and putting the gear in 1st or 2nd, --Randall suggested 4th--and rocking the car back and forth. Engine still frozen. The problem has been identified as the starter, since pulling it freed the engine. Now as I understand it, the starter has been checked and is in working order, and has been reinstalled and is turning but not engaging. I suppose it could be the solenoid, as suggested. But could it also have something to do with the ring gear being too chewed up to accept the starter gear, which would also explain the frozen condition in the original post? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Mon Jun 2 19:06:11 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 01:06:11 +0000 Subject: [TR] Battery or Starter Message-ID: <060320080106.14480.484499030000017A0000389022155538949C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> What happens if you trade a battery from a working car? -------------- Original message -------------- From: Jeff Scarbrough > At 05:09 PM 6/2/2008, Bob Danielson wrote: > > >Next steps? Suggestions? New battery? New starter? > > Clean and tighten the cables. Don't forget the ground. > > Classic symptoms, it will pass a low-current but not a high current. > > (Though a battery has probably neared the end of it's service life > after 8 years...) > > > > Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 > http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ > Athens, Georgia #354 > _______________________________________________ From fishplate at charter.net Mon Jun 2 19:40:28 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 21:40:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <484475EA.1080609@dfn.com> References: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost> <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> <484475EA.1080609@dfn.com> Message-ID: <20080603014009.KWTH4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 06:36 PM 6/2/2008, Michael Porter wrote: >Umm, the distributor turns at one-half crankshaft speed, so it takes >720 deg. of crank travel to complete one full round of the >distributor. Measurements based on 360 deg. are in dist. degrees, >not crank degrees, just for clarification. Yes, I should have made that clear. > Further, the description of dwell open and closed angles is backwards. Yep. Cerebral vacation on my part. Thanks for pointing that out. After this exchange, I dug out some old Delco-Remy training material from the Good Old Days. I'm going to get it scanned and posted...lots of good info on ignition, battery and generator systems that should be applicable to our cars. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From ols at bcdef.net Mon Jun 2 20:32:54 2008 From: ols at bcdef.net (Alexander Delis) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 22:32:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs Message-ID: List Some time ago, someone on this list was gracious enough to send me the BS on Triumphs that they had scanned and made a pdf out of it. I recently had a major HD crash and lost my copy of it. IF anyone has a copy of this, I would VERY much appreciate it if they would send me another copy. Thanks Alex From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Jun 2 21:13:06 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 20:13:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize In-Reply-To: <484363FF.7020601@verizon.net> References: <4841C4A5.9060206@verizon.net><00ae01c8c369$b35629d0$8701a8c0@Dell> <48433E6C.2010102@verizon.net><8CA92739EEFC67F-8B0-25B0@mblk-d23.sysops.aol.com> <484363FF.7020601@verizon.net> Message-ID: <62A64E8D01B84734B70F714A652FF478@GeoPC> Sounds to me like the starter engaged and jammed the flywheel. Further attempts to use the starter caused it to spin as the 'clutch" (that rubber dingus) slipped. TR3 starters do this sometimes, as I recall the owner's manual even explains the procedure for freeing the jammed starter (put in 4th and rock backwards... must be backwards). As Joe noted, the bench test suggests the starter is okay so I would reinstall and see if the problem recurs (after inspecting the flywheel). Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerrold Le Tourneau" To: "Andrew Mace" ; Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 8:07 PM Subject: Re: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize > Andrew- > > No the spacer is there. I turn the ignition key and hear a whirling > sound but no engine engagement. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Jun 2 21:20:07 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 20:20:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> References: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net><4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost> <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <4A85D868BF4842888F9EC08E62077D97@GeoPC> This is almost making my head hurt. Seems like I could check the accuracy of the meter (yes I'm looking at the 4-cyl scale) by simply connecting my test bulb and using my protractor to see how many degrees the rotor moves while the points are closed (bulb lit). Crude but perhaps effective. If the gauge is accurate (I suspect it is) I will likely opt for a compromise setting of a gap slightly less than .015 and a dwell less that 60*. Thanks for all the fish... I mean advice. Geo ----- Original Message ----- > At 01:46 PM 6/2/2008, somebody wrote: > The dwell angle is the amount of distributor rotation ~per cylinder~ > where the points are closed. Typically, that number should be half > of the total rotation per cylinder. Bentley sez for TR6, dwell is > 35*, open angle is 25* for a total of 60*. 60 x 6 = 360. For the > Spitfire, dwell is 51*, open angle is 39* for a total of 90* 90 x 4 = > 360. From wbeech at flash.net Mon Jun 2 21:38:21 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 21:38:21 -0600 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005301c8c52b$469da020$6401a8c0@sniffer> I have a hard copy if no one has the .PDF I'll make a copy and send you. If someone has the .PDF, I would like a copy of the file too. Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alexander Delis Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 8:33 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs List Some time ago, someone on this list was gracious enough to send me the BS on Triumphs that they had scanned and made a pdf out of it. I recently had a major HD crash and lost my copy of it. IF anyone has a copy of this, I would VERY much appreciate it if they would send me another copy. Thanks Alex This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Jun 2 21:40:48 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 20:40:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Dwell vs. Point Gap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <63466C82F647476BA801EFDBB4B9F39B@GeoPC> Googling around for typical dwell specs on British 4 cylinder engines I found that 60 degrees (+/-3) is pretty typical. But I also found this: Here are the distributor point gap specs. Contact breaker gap 0.014 - 0.016 in (0.35 - 0.40 mm) Dwell angle 60 degrees +/- 3 degrees (negative ground) 30 degrees +/- 3 degrees (positive ground) Okay, this was for an Amphicar (almost a Triumph) but caused me to wonder if it could possibly be true. It seems counter-intuitive as 1) reducing the gap did in fact increase the dwell and 2) the way the dwell meter connects appears to be indifferent as to what ground polarity is. If this is true then I'm likely to believe that it is also 60* in the UK and 30* in NZ. Geo From fishplate at charter.net Mon Jun 2 21:51:45 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 23:51:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <4A85D868BF4842888F9EC08E62077D97@GeoPC> References: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost> <20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> <4A85D868BF4842888F9EC08E62077D97@GeoPC> Message-ID: <20080603035118.RQXS3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 11:20 PM 6/2/2008, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: >This is almost making my head hurt. Seems like I could check the accuracy >of the meter (yes I'm looking at the 4-cyl scale) by simply connecting my >test bulb and using my protractor to see how many degrees the rotor moves >while the points are closed (bulb lit). Crude but perhaps effective. That's one way. >If the gauge is accurate (I suspect it is) I will likely opt for a >compromise setting of a gap slightly less than .015 and a dwell less that >60*. That's what I'd do... >Thanks for all the fish... I mean advice. I read a suggestion today: Use a dial indicator to check the lift of the points. Place the stem right behind the contact and rotate to max lift...just one more trick to make it all as complicated as humanly possible. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Athens, Georgia #354 From cole.jw at comcast.net Mon Jun 2 22:13:19 2008 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (Jerry Cole) Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 21:13:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Victory Ride Ends In Drag of Shame References: Message-ID: <00d301c8c530$2894c680$ba00a8c0@Belen> Finally Helen Back (1972 TR6) got her day in the sun. Much awaited drive went fine all day then three miles from the house... No spark. No tools. Cell phone? yes. AAA card? hadn't arrived yet. After much waiting, Helen Back came home behind my F150. Spark out the coil wire but none to the plugs. No points, previous owner had installed a Crane ignition system. Poorly, I might add. My knee-jerk reaction has always been to install a Pertronix Flamethrower coil and a Pertronix Ignitor. Nice clean install and the goodies all fit under the distributor cap and not on the fender well. Nice clean install and still no spark. What could it be? The rotor!!! Looks perfect, but somehow will not permit the transfer of spark all of the sudden, without warning. New rotor and Helen sprang to life. Nice shiny new paint, cushy new $1700 seats and I am on the road. Ted, I haven't forgotten. I have my old seat upholstery ready for you (at long last). Jerry Cole Lakewood, WA. 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 3 01:59:32 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 00:59:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Victory Ride Ends In Drag of Shame In-Reply-To: <00d301c8c530$2894c680$ba00a8c0@Belen> Message-ID: <20080603075932.DHLE25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > AAA card? hadn't arrived yet. Just as a side note, I've always found AAA to be more than accommodating over the phone. Call the 800 number and tell them your tale of woe, including not having your card with you. If you are in their database, they'll square the tow even without a card (or with an expired one). Glad you got it running again with a minimum of hassle, Jerry. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 3 02:04:11 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 01:04:11 -0700 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: <005301c8c52b$469da020$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080603080411.KSMV28655.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> I have a copy of a hard copy, and the ability to make a PDF of it. But if someone has already done so, I'd also like a copy, please. Randall > I have a hard copy if no one has the .PDF I'll make a copy > and send you. If someone has the .PDF, I would like a copy > of the file too. From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Tue Jun 3 04:22:02 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 06:22:02 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Re- K&N filters Message-ID: <25269138.1212488522789.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I've got the 3 3/4" manifold. The K&Ns measure 1 3/4" thick and there is a gap between the front K&N and the fender that looks to be about 1/2". (Maybe you're motor mounts are sagging) Cheers, Adrian TS 58325 From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jun 3 05:19:32 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 07:19:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Re- K&N filters Message-ID: In a message dated 6/3/2008 5:22:20 AM Eastern Standard Time, adrianjones747 at earthlink.net writes: > I've got the 3 3/4" manifold. > The K&Ns measure 1 3/4" thick and there is a gap between the front K&N and > the fender that looks to be about 1/2". > (Maybe you're motor mounts are sagging) > Cheers, Adrian TS 58325 Thanks. The motor mounts are brand new. Turns out it was my power of reasoning that was sagging. Got it tuned up and ready to go. Everything fits now. I had not installed the forward cross brace to properly space the inner wings before tightening the body mounts. ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Tue Jun 3 06:05:21 2008 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 08:05:21 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3/4 Pertronix timing Message-ID: I would like to know how people are setting the timing (and how much) on the TR3 and 4 motors with a Pertronix. Going by the book, timing is set statically at 4 degrees before TDC using the TDC mark on the pulley and adding 4 degrees at the distributor. Further refinement to be determined by road test. Again, by the book, use of a timing light is not recommended. I have a timing light that reads advance and retard which is necessary since there are not degree markings on the pulley. So, with a stock TR4, how many degrees advanced at what rpm? Thanks, Allen From jmitch at snet.net Tue Jun 3 06:08:54 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 08:08:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] AC fuel filter Message-ID: <48453456.3010809@snet.net> Does anyone know the AC part number for the TR6 fuel filter? Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 3 06:18:17 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 05:18:17 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: <20080603080411.KSMV28655.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> If someone has a .pdf of this, I'd like a copy as well. I have .pdfs of several Triumph-related docs I'm willing to exchange as well Raymond L. Hatfield --- Randall wrote: > I have a copy of a hard copy, and the ability to make a PDF of it. > > But if someone has already done so, I'd also like a copy, please. > > Randall > > > I have a hard copy if no one has the .PDF I'll make a copy > > and send you. If someone has the .PDF, I would like a copy > > of the file too. From jmitch at snet.net Tue Jun 3 06:20:08 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 08:20:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: <674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <484536F8.4010504@snet.net> Same here, John Mitchell Raymond Hatfield wrote: > If someone has a .pdf of this, I'd like a copy as well. I have .pdfs of > several Triumph-related docs I'm willing to exchange as well > > Raymond L. Hatfield > > --- Randall wrote: > > >> I have a copy of a hard copy, and the ability to make a PDF of it. >> >> But if someone has already done so, I'd also like a copy, please. >> >> Randall >> >> >>> I have a hard copy if no one has the .PDF I'll make a copy >>> and send you. If someone has the .PDF, I would like a copy >>> of the file too. From thenicholls at verizon.net Tue Jun 3 06:23:23 2008 From: thenicholls at verizon.net (thenicholls at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 07:23:23 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs Message-ID: <11926387.9255471212495803349.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Same here.....Craig 1972 Triumph TR6 On Tue, Jun 3, 2008 at 8:20 AM, John Mitchell wrote: > Same here, John Mitchell > > Raymond Hatfield wrote: >> If someone has a .pdf of this, I'd like a copy as well. I have .pdfs >> of >> several Triumph-related docs I'm willing to exchange as well >> >> Raymond L. Hatfield >> >> --- Randall wrote: >> >> >>> I have a copy of a hard copy, and the ability to make a PDF of it. >>> >>> But if someone has already done so, I'd also like a copy, please. >>> >>> Randall >>> >>> >>>> I have a hard copy if no one has the .PDF I'll make a copy and send >>>> you. If someone has the .PDF, I would like a copy of the file too. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as thenicholls at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Tue Jun 3 06:25:11 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 08:25:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: <674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: That's the 3rd or 4th request for a copy that I've seen hit the list and I, too, would like a copy. Would it be possible for someone who has the .pdf to post a link to their website where we could each download our own copy? Chuck Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ -----Original Message----- From: On Behalf Of Raymond Hatfield Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 8:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] BS on Triumphs If someone has a .pdf of this, I'd like a copy as well. I have .pdfs of several Triumph-related docs I'm willing to exchange as well Raymond L. Hatfield --- Randall wrote: > I have a copy of a hard copy, and the ability to make a PDF of it. > > But if someone has already done so, I'd also like a copy, please. > > Randall > > > I have a hard copy if no one has the .PDF I'll make a copy > > and send you. If someone has the .PDF, I would like a copy > > of the file too. From thomasb at queensu.ca Tue Jun 3 07:22:10 2008 From: thomasb at queensu.ca (Brian Thomas) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 09:22:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] SCCA TR4 For Sale Message-ID: <0K1W003792H1HD70@mta01.its.queensu.ca> Hi guys, This morning while glancing at Fred Petrosky's website ( http://www.mostlybritish.com/ ), under PROJECTS I noticed he has an SCCA TR4 for sale. Looks a little rough, but with a little work (alright a lot), it could be ready for racing at the Glen in September Fred has been in the British car parts business for probably 30 years and is located about 30 miles south of us in upper New York State. Back in the 80's he bought many MGs, Triumphs, Healeys, etc. disassembled them and stored the parts in a very organised fashion in doors. ... and he always has "interesting" projects. Check out also the Jackie Kennedy mother's Jag! Cheers, Brian Brian S. Thomas e-mail: ThomasB at QueensU.Ca Holliday Point work: 613-533-2228 R R 1 fax: 613-385-1948 Wolfe Island, Ontario home: 613-385-1947 K0H 2Y0 toys: 54 TR2, 56 TR3, 67 TR4A, 80 TR8, 52 Ferguson TEA20 From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 3 07:28:19 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 09:28:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs References: Message-ID: <083101c8c57d$b0a3fc60$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I'm still waiting to get to a scanner so I can do it. Would everyone who hasn't done so, send me their email address and I'll make sure that they get a copy. Thanks, Paul -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 605 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From 63trumpster at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 3 07:41:55 2008 From: 63trumpster at bellsouth.net (63trumpster at bellsouth.net) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 13:41:55 +0000 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: <674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <20080603080411.KSMV28655.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> <674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <060320081341.26569.48454A230009AF5B000067C922230682229B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF0A0A040100000A06@att.net> > If someone has a .pdf of this, I'd like a copy as well. I have .pdfs of > several Triumph-related docs I'm willing to exchange as well > > > > I have a copy of a hard copy, and the ability to make a PDF of it. > > > > But if someone has already done so, I'd also like a copy, please. > > >> > > > > I have a hard copy if no one has the .PDF I'll make a copy > > > and send you. If someone has the .PDF, I would like a copy > > > of the file too. Hey guys, I'm about to jump into my resto' project and would like to collect any data that may help me out. So, add me to that list, if you please. Jeff '63 tr4 CT 21244 L From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jun 3 07:53:13 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 08:53:13 -0500 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs References: <20080603080411.KSMV28655.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall><674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <060320081341.26569.48454A230009AF5B000067C922230682229B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF0A0A040100000A06@att.net> Message-ID: <000301c8c581$2bcff080$8115a8c0@garage.local> me too From tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org Tue Jun 3 08:02:26 2008 From: tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 09:02:26 -0500 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B8D871BFFB64707BF1C21360718F563@aitinc.local> Provided there are no copyright issues, I'd be willing to put it up on the shoalsbritishcars.org web site for download. Can anyone comment on the copyright of this material? Terry Geiger 59 MGA Roadster~59 MGA Coupe~74 Triumph TR6~70 MGBGT~63 Triumph Herald~84 Mercedes 300D www.ShoalsBritishCars.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "C E White" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 7:25 AM Subject: Re: [TR] BS on Triumphs > That's the 3rd or 4th request for a copy that I've seen hit the list and > I, > too, would like a copy. Would it be possible for someone who has the .pdf > to post a link to their website where we could each download our own copy? > > Chuck > Xenia, OH > 1965 TR4A IRS > 1970 GT6+ > > -----Original Message----- > From: On Behalf Of Raymond Hatfield > Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 8:18 A > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] BS on Triumphs > > > If someone has a .pdf of this, I'd like a copy as well. I have .pdfs of > several Triumph-related docs I'm willing to exchange as well > > Raymond L. Hatfield > > --- Randall wrote: > >> I have a copy of a hard copy, and the ability to make a PDF of it. >> >> But if someone has already done so, I'd also like a copy, please. >> >> Randall >> >> > I have a hard copy if no one has the .PDF I'll make a copy >> > and send you. If someone has the .PDF, I would like a copy >> > of the file too. > _______________________________________________ From fishplate at charter.net Tue Jun 3 08:42:46 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 7:42:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Victory Ride Ends In Drag of Shame In-Reply-To: <20080603075932.DHLE25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <20080603104246.I9YLS.125925.root@fepweb15> ---- Randall wrote: > > AAA card? hadn't arrived yet. > > Just as a side note, I've always found AAA to be more than accommodating > over the phone. True, but... When my Spitfire's fuel pump failed last week, the 11 mile tow would have cost me $35 with my AAA membership. I put them on hold while I called Hagerty - their limit was 50 miles with Hagerty Plus, while AAA regular tow is 5 miles, and $5 a mile after that. I took the free towing. It pays to review your benefits from various sources. Jeff Scarbrough Bomba de Gasolina, Ga. From Lbc.Resto at verizon.net Tue Jun 3 09:39:40 2008 From: Lbc.Resto at verizon.net (Lbc.Resto) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 11:39:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Victory Ride Ends In Drag of Shame In-Reply-To: <20080603104246.I9YLS.125925.root@fepweb15> References: <20080603075932.DHLE25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> <20080603104246.I9YLS.125925.root@fepweb15> Message-ID: <006d01c8c590$0a110830$0301a8c0@RAS> I signed up for the 120 mile Hagerty package that covers all your other cars as well. I nearly needed it on Sunday when my Pertronix died on the PA turnpike on my way to the Cars of England show. The points assembly in my onboard spares kit saved the day. Ian 62 TR4 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=verizon.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+lbc.resto=verizon.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fishplate at charter.net Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 10:43 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 Victory Ride Ends In Drag of Shame ---- Randall wrote: > > AAA card? hadn't arrived yet. > > Just as a side note, I've always found AAA to be more than accommodating > over the phone. True, but... When my Spitfire's fuel pump failed last week, the 11 mile tow would have cost me $35 with my AAA membership. I put them on hold while I called Hagerty - their limit was 50 miles with Hagerty Plus, while AAA regular tow is 5 miles, and $5 a mile after that. I took the free towing. It pays to review your benefits from various sources. Jeff Scarbrough Bomba de Gasolina, Ga. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as lbc.resto at verizon.net http://www.team.net/archive From steven at newellboys.net Tue Jun 3 09:44:23 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 09:44:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 Victory Ride Ends In Drag of Shame In-Reply-To: <20080603104246.I9YLS.125925.root@fepweb15> References: <20080603104246.I9YLS.125925.root@fepweb15> Message-ID: <484566D7.9030906@newellboys.net> fishplate at charter.net wrote: >When my Spitfire's fuel pump failed last week, the 11 mile tow would have cost me $35 with my AAA membership. I put them on hold while I called Hagerty - their limit was 50 miles with Hagerty Plus, while AAA regular tow is 5 miles, and $5 a mile after that. > >I took the free towing. It pays to review your benefits from various sources. > I went for the AAA Plus membership, which gives you a 100 mile free tow. It worked out well when the ignition lock failed on my '72 BMW 2002 on a perfect powder day in Breckenridge, 97 miles from home. Good thing I didn't go to Vail. I insure all my cars, old and older, with USAA using replacement policies. I don't know, but Hagerty might have frowned on "ski wagon" as a use for my classic BMW. :) Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA '62 TR4 x 2 '87 BMW x 3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 3 10:27:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 09:27:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: <4B8D871BFFB64707BF1C21360718F563@aitinc.local> Message-ID: <20080603162753.BPUK23887.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Can anyone comment on the copyright of this material? Well, there is no copyright notice on the material. As I recall, at the time, that was considered reasonable evidence that the author did not claim his rights and the material could be freely copied; at least until evidence was presented to the contrary. According to a friend of mine who is a lawyer specializing in Intellectual Property; as long as you are not selling the reproductions, then it's reasonable to go ahead and wait for the copyright holder (if any) to contact you and object. His remedy at that point is limited to asking for any profits you have made, which of course don't exist if you haven't been selling. But of course my friend wants me to add that this does not constitute legal advice, and that you should consult your own (paid) attorney. (IOW, YMMV ) Randall From skip47 at clearwire.net Tue Jun 3 10:49:09 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 09:49:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs References: Message-ID: <012001c8c599$bfe938e0$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Ok, I'm stumped. To me, BS is that which is produced by a farm animal or egomaniac. Since so many smart people are wanting it, there must be another definition. Please educate me; and if it's useful TR information, I want some too! Thanks, Skip Alexander Delis wrote: > List > > Some time ago, someone on this list was gracious enough to send me > the BS on Triumphs that they had scanned and made a pdf out of it. > > I recently had a major HD crash and lost my copy of it. IF anyone has > a copy of this, I would VERY much appreciate it if they would send me > another copy. > > Thanks > > Alex From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 3 11:04:42 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 10:04:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: <012001c8c599$bfe938e0$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <20080603170443.KHKH25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Ok, I'm stumped. To me, BS is that which is produced by a > farm animal or egomaniac. Since so many smart people are > wanting it, there must be another definition. BS in this case likely stands for Bob Schaller, the author of "More BS about TRs". Bob was certainly no egomaniac, but since he referenced "us old goats", perhaps the first definition applies ;) Randall From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Tue Jun 3 11:38:20 2008 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 13:38:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] Looking for Dashboard Support Bracket In-Reply-To: <20080603170443.KHKH25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <012001c8c599$bfe938e0$6400a8c0@ZEUS> <20080603170443.KHKH25439.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B21E362B@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET> Howdy all! Hopefully someone can help me find a piece that's missing from my girlfriend's '71 TR6. The car came without the center console dashboard support. I happen to have a spare, but as I was getting ready to install it, I noticed that her car is missing the little metal bracket that the top of the dash support console bolts to. Does anyone happen to have a spare lying around, or have a parts car that is willing to give one up for the team? Thanks so much! B. Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1968 MGC Tourer 1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1959 Austin Healey 3000 Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... NOTICE: This communication and its attachments have been sent to you from Powell Goldstein LLP and may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. If you are not the intended recipient appearing in the address lines of this communication, you should not rely upon it. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From lee.k.janssen at lmco.com Tue Jun 3 12:11:45 2008 From: lee.k.janssen at lmco.com (Janssen, Lee K) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 12:11:45 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR6 Gauge O-rings Message-ID: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC9483070BDDAB@emss02m11.us.lmco.com> All: I'm looking for o-rings to fit TR6 oil, temp, voltage, fuel gauges. Does anyone know the correct size or have some available? Thanks Lee From team.net at daveola.com Tue Jun 3 14:15:16 2008 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 13:15:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 271 In-Reply-To: <674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <674634.56802.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > If someone has a .pdf of this, I'd like a copy as well. I have .pdfs of > several Triumph-related docs I'm willing to exchange as well As I've mentioned before, I'd be happy to host any such TR docs on my website. You can email me directly with any you have and I'll start putting them up for everyone. Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From BearTranserv at aol.com Tue Jun 3 14:54:18 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 16:54:18 EDT Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs Message-ID: OK...if it's not ca-ca put me down for one...of tell me where the web page is located Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 6/3/2008 11:05:03 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: More BS about TRs". **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 3 16:42:25 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 18:42:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Battery or Starter Test Results Message-ID: <000b01c8c5cb$19ef5f50$210110ac@bobspc> Thanks for all the great input yesterday. The first thing I decided was to replace the battery as the consensus was that after 6 or so years, it's living on borrowed time. After hooking it up, the only difference was that the starter relay and the solenoid went clickity click. Next I turned on the lights and turned the key to the start position. The lights immediately went out which indicates a short somewhere. Next was to test for power at the starter.........except there was steady smoke coming out of the starter! Looks like I know where the short probably is......but I took Rick Patton's suggestion and I removed the 3 main cables off of the starter and bolted them together. I also removed the starter relay cable from the starter. Turned on the lights, turned the key and the lights stayed on this time, so the short isn't in the cables. Next up was a call to Ted Schumacher to order one of his hi-torque starters......except Ted won't have any TR6 starters until Friday or Monday. Seeing as VB and Moss sell the same starter as Ted's (wink wink)for almost $300 versus $200 from Ted, I'll wait a week. Thanks again for all the help. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From dkspence at telus.net Tue Jun 3 17:37:57 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 17:37:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] GT6 engine still seized - Bob Kinderlehrer gets the prize-MMO Message-ID: Re the MMO, not to worry. The use of MMO is standard procedure in the vanagon community. These water boxer engines have an annoying habit of allowing one or more of the hydraulic tappets to drain if the van sits for any length of time. Usually clears up (refills) with a few minutes of driving. If not, the profered solution is to run up to 1/4 volume of MMO in the crankcase for a couple of days, then drain and replace with 20-50 and a new filter. Based on this and if your MMO volume is only a quart (probably much less if you have been sucking it out), run it and drain it and fill with the proper oil and a new filter. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Jun 3 17:46:20 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 16:46:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Victory Ride Ends In Drag of Shame In-Reply-To: <484566D7.9030906@newellboys.net> References: <20080603104246.I9YLS.125925.root@fepweb15> <484566D7.9030906@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <761539DF0EEB41AAA16660557AFDD5CE@GeoPC> AAA now offers AAA Premier with 200 miles of towing (in Arizona at least, probably elsewhere too). In the big and open Southwest it is often the case I am around 200 miles from a city. I carry a Southwest map with a 400 mile diameter circle centered at my home. Some comfort knowing I am in that tow-zone. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Newell" > I went for the AAA Plus membership, which gives you a 100 mile free tow. From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 3 18:06:05 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 18:06:05 -0600 Subject: [TR] BS on Triumphs In-Reply-To: <012001c8c599$bfe938e0$6400a8c0@ZEUS> References: <012001c8c599$bfe938e0$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <002901c8c5d6$ca4657e0$6401a8c0@sniffer> B.S. is the late Bob Schaller. His booklet "More BS about TR's" has been around in some format or another since 1984. It is full of tips for the daily driver, restorer or performance rider. Back in April there were some other threads that included contributions from those who knew Bob, you might want to go back a look at the archives for those comments. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Skip Gurnee Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2008 10:49 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; Alexander Delis Subject: Re: [TR] BS on Triumphs Ok, I'm stumped. To me, BS is that which is produced by a farm animal or egomaniac. Since so many smart people are wanting it, there must be another definition. Please educate me; and if it's useful TR information, I want some too! Thanks, Skip Alexander Delis wrote: > List > > Some time ago, someone on this list was gracious enough to send me the > BS on Triumphs that they had scanned and made a pdf out of it. > > I recently had a major HD crash and lost my copy of it. IF anyone has > a copy of this, I would VERY much appreciate it if they would send me > another copy. > > Thanks > > Alex This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From mrv8q at aim.com Tue Jun 3 18:54:45 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 20:54:45 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Gauge O-rings In-Reply-To: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC9483070BDDAB@emss02m11.us.lmco.com> References: <4A4A54C00754BE479D84213367CC9483070BDDAB@emss02m11.us.lmco.com> Message-ID: <8CA93F4B6BD3F5C-9D4-1B9F@webmail-ne04.sysops.aol.com> Just did this last week for my TR6... took a gauge into the plumbing department of aB good comprehensive old-fashioned hardware store; that is, NOT Home Depot... plenty to choose from, at 25 cents apiece; sorry, no part number.. Best, Kevin Browne '59TR3A and '74 TR6 All: I'm looking for o-rings to fit TR6 oil, temp, voltage, fuel gauges. Does anyone know the correct size or have some available? Thanks Lee From mrv8q at aim.com Tue Jun 3 19:10:57 2008 From: mrv8q at aim.com (mrv8q at aim.com) Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 21:10:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] AC fuel filter In-Reply-To: <48453456.3010809@snet.net> References: <48453456.3010809@snet.net> Message-ID: <8CA93F6FA399208-9D4-1C70@webmail-ne04.sysops.aol.com> Here's an AC Delco number: GF 61....if you want to cross reference Best, Kevin Browne Does anyone know the AC part number for the TR6 fuel filter? Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 _______________________________________________ From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Jun 3 20:09:33 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 19:09:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <073e01c8c5e8$082cfdf0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Well, after 2 1/2 years of complete restoration and winning 2nd place last summer in the Portland (OR)All British Field Meet, I'm thinking of selling my masterpiece to fund another. But with the economy the way it is today, I'm wondering if it's worth selling now or waiting another year. Any thoughts? FYI - when I say restored, I mean this car needs nothing but someone who loves to drive around in it. I have rebuilt or replaced absolutely everything on this car, except the rear bumper and Amco luggage rack. These should be re-chromed to be a perfect, first place winner. Brian 1967 TR4a IRS From blambert at socal.rr.com Tue Jun 3 21:02:28 2008 From: blambert at socal.rr.com (D&B Lambert) Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 20:02:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 - Dwell v Points Gap In-Reply-To: <4A85D868BF4842888F9EC08E62077D97@GeoPC> References: <27166514.1212422035950.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net><4843F9C7.3895.580D7A2@localhost><20080602211737.WVZT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> <4A85D868BF4842888F9EC08E62077D97@GeoPC> Message-ID: > Thanks for all the fish... I mean advice. > > Geo > Big Douglas Adams fan are we? :) Dennis From Chip19474 at aol.com Wed Jun 4 07:07:04 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 09:07:04 EDT Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a Message-ID: Brian, Here's my observation.....the Brit car restoration shops in my area (southeastern Pennsylvania) seem to have steady work with customers who are willing and can pay for the work performed on their cars. This hobby/passion of our's seems to be a little more resilient to economic downturns than other segments of the economy.....at least that's the way I see it where I live. I think that part of the strength of the "cash flow" comes from the fact that the profile of most owners who are willing to part with 4 to 6 figure restorations, service work or purchases is that of 50 years or older folks who have strong income or solid retirement investments (or both) AND have a strong emotional connection with these cars from past experiences or ownership. All that said, this pool of cash flow is 1) fading....(albeit we hope very gradually) from assorted human factors and 2) not being replenished. So, to finally answer your question, I wouldn't hesitate to sell now - just be realistic in your expectations remembering that often you can't get every dollar back from your restoration expenses. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/3/2008 7:10:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 308gtsi at roadrunner.com writes: I'm wondering if it's worth selling now or waiting another year. Any thoughts? **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From skip47 at clearwire.net Wed Jun 4 09:57:36 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 08:57:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a References: <073e01c8c5e8$082cfdf0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <002801c8c65b$b682ad00$6400a8c0@ZEUS> "Brian Induni wrote: Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a ... with the economy the way it is today, I'm wondering if it's worth selling now or waiting another year. Any thoughts? Brian- Find a chart of the Dow Jones Industrials from 1910-1935, and look at the form of it: a big run up and then a precipitous crash in 1929. Then look at a chart of the last 25 years. You'll see an eerily similar pattern, an order of magnitude larger. The coming crash will be a surprise with its velocity, depth, and persistence. At best we have only a few months left. Sell the car as soon as you can, and put the money in a safe place; or keep it as relatively inexpensive transportation. Get a copy of Robert Prechter's "Conquer the Crash" for more information, and specific details of what to do. Sorry for the sermon; it's something I'm passionate about. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jun 4 10:26:36 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 12:26:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a Message-ID: In a message dated 6/4/2008 9:05:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, skip47 at clearwire.net writes: Sorry for the sermon; it's something I'm passionate about. Best, Skip Gurnee Skip, How much stock are you shorting? :-)) Best, Mike Moore **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From wquincy at cox.net Wed Jun 4 10:28:35 2008 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:28:35 -0500 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Pressure Issue Message-ID: Greetings listers, Ive just added a electric fuel pump (CB Performance model 3193 rotary fuel pump) It is advertised to pump at 3 = p.s.i. It seems to be pumping to much pressure for my SUs. After 10 to 20 minutes gas is flowing out of the float breather tubes. Im guessing a pressure regulator is the fix. So, is there any pressure reg. brand or pressure setting recommendation. Or maybe an other direction to go. Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L From BearTranserv at aol.com Wed Jun 4 11:27:05 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 13:27:05 EDT Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a Message-ID: One of the things that makes the future of our economy so rosy is that yes, many baby boomers are enjoying their retirement and/or employment sucesses , but also, we are starting to die off and the next generation is inheriting literally trillions of dollars that will further boost the economy. Manufacturing is up, interest is down, should be fine by Christmas. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay In a message dated 6/4/2008 7:07:39 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, Chip19474 at aol.com writes: I think that part of the strength of the "cash flow" comes from the fact that the profile of most owners who are willing to part with 4 to 6 figure restorations, service work or purchases is that of 50 years or older folks who have strong income or solid retirement investments (or both) AND have a strong emotional connection with these cars from past experiences or ownership. All that said, this pool of cash flow is 1) fading....(albeit we hope very gradually) from assorted human factors and 2) not being replenished. So, to finally answer your question, I wouldn't hesitate to sell now - just be realistic in your expectations remembering that often you can't get every dollar back from your restoration expenses. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Jun 4 11:51:44 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2008 17:51:44 +0000 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Pressure Issue Message-ID: <060420081751.26702.4846D630000B255A0000684E2207020653970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "William C. Quincy" > Greetings listers, > Ive just added a electric fuel pump (CB Performance model 3193 > rotary fuel pump) > It is advertised to pump at 3 = p.s.i. It seems to be pumping to > much pressure > for my SUs. After 10 to 20 minutes gas is flowing out of the float > breather tubes. > Im guessing a pressure regulator is the fix. So, is there any > pressure reg. brand or pressure setting recommendation. Or maybe an > other direction to go. If the pump is truly pushing 3 psi, I'm surprised that you are having this issue. I regularly ran 5 psi into the HS6's on my vintage race TR4, with no overflow issues whatsoever, even idleing in the paddock. One of my friends runs as high as 7 psi on his vintage race TR4. The only time I had fuel coming from the overflow was when 1 of the floats failed and sunk. This is happening more and more, at least at the track, due to some of the additives in the gas. The regulator of choice is the Holley, but to set it, you also need a fuel pressure gauge. I'm not a believer in the little round disc regulators that you adjust by turning a dial. HTH, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 4 12:49:52 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:49:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Pressure Issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1cba01c8c673$c7d40a00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Ive just added a electric fuel pump (CB Performance model 3193 > rotary fuel pump) > It is advertised to pump at 3 = p.s.i. Irv's advice is good, but I think I'd want to check how much pressure it's actually pumping. There may be something else wrong as well. Most vacuum test gauges will also read fuel pump pressure. If the problem only happens while driving, tee the lines together and prop the gauge under a wiper while you take a test drive. Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Jun 4 12:58:55 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2008 12:58:55 -0600 Subject: [TR] Stag lug nuts In-Reply-To: <464930.40971.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <464930.40971.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4846E5EF.4040100@tscusa.org> Hi Ray, There are 4 or 5 different machined designs which are all the size of the machined dimple in the end of the hex, then again, late models were black anodized on top of that combination. Measure the width (diameter) of the machined dimple and I'll let you know if I have any that style for you. Raymond Hatfield wrote: > Hi Y'all, > > Does anyone have any spares or can tell me where I can get replacement lug > nuts for a Stag with alloy wheels? I'm in need of 4 to get my wife's car back > up and running - found out the DPO had stripped several of them out while I was > mounting new tires. > > Driving season is apon us, and she want's to get out and enjoy it! > > Thanks in advance, > > > Raymond L. Hatfield > '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" > '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" > Little Rock, AR > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jun 4 14:44:53 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 21:44:53 +0100 Subject: [TR] And I thought I was sweating on oil prices!!! Message-ID: <00c001c8c683$d8143ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hi, Guys The only Triumph connection I can bring to this thread is that on Sunday I found myself re-fuelling the Triumph Trans-America UK Spitfire UK Raffle prize at a freeway gas station here in the UK. Even topping off the tank made my eyes smart a bit (remembering UK fuel prices are usually stratospheric) - but I had a surprise. Just as I was snapping the filler cap closed on the Spitfire, alongside me comes a beautiful 1926 4.5 litre Bentley. The same type that raced so successfully at Le Mans all those years ago. Driver was a most engaging individual, very friendly and responded with humour to my comment that it would cost him the UK defence budget to re-fill. With aplomb and a cheery smile, he loosened the Bentley's fuel cap to reveal a hole about 6 inches in diameter and a *fairly* empty (I'd guess just under half full) but massive slab tank. In went the nozzle and while he kept the fuel flowing, we had a pleasant chat. First time I've seen a Bentley refilled from empty and it didn't happen in a few moments! :) Eventually, the tank was full and I looked at the pump meter. GBP 143.00 (equal to about US$286.00) and I commented that I hoped it would get him home. "I hope so too. London's about 130 miles? With a bit of luck and if I keep the revs below 2000, we ought to do it." How much did he take on board? My calculator tells me about 25.8 imperial gallons and there were probably about another 20 gallons still in it. So, say 50 gallons at GBPUS$554 for the full tank and 130 miles to eat it all up, it would have cost him somewhere in the region of US$4.26 PER MILE! Jeez, at that consumption, I guess you could work out the cost per firing impulse. Anyone care to do it? I'm too tired..... Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From FordneyNJ at aol.com Wed Jun 4 15:16:27 2008 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 17:16:27 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 gauge O-ring Message-ID: You can find the O-rings at _http://britcot.com_ (http://britcot.com) NFI Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ TR4A IRS CTC60536L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA 400612 President, Positive Earth Drivers Club **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jun 4 15:15:27 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 17:15:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Electric Fuel Pump Pressure Issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200806041715.28027.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 04 June 2008 12:28 pm, William C. Quincy wrote: > Greetings listers, > Ive just added a electric fuel pump (CB Performance model 3193 > rotary fuel pump) > It is advertised to pump at 3 = p.s.i. It seems to be pumping to > much pressure > for my SUs. After 10 to 20 minutes gas is flowing out of the float > breather tubes. > Im guessing a pressure regulator is the fix. So, is there any > pressure reg. brand or pressure setting recommendation. Or maybe an > other direction to go. > > > Bill Quincy > Wichita, Ks. > TR3A TS69623L Bill, I run 2 PSI in both the 3 and 4 with the H6 SUs. Cars have never run smoother since I canned the mechanical pumps. I use a regulator with gauge that I got from Jegs but I cant remember the brand. But it works for what they call "low pressure" fuel systems. Has 1 intake and 2 outlets. Outlet 1 for the carbs and outlet 2 for the gauge. Someone on this list recommended the Jegs site and the gauge by model number about 2 years ago. Might want to check the archives. Bob From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Wed Jun 4 20:21:39 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 22:21:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 Seat Belt mounting holes Message-ID: <000001c8c6b2$e362cb00$dc463b47@Scott> I am getting ready to drill the seat belt mounting holes in my pre-60000 TR3A. I have the 1962 S-T Motor Company memorandum that provides the diagrams on where to drill the holes. What I want to be clear about is its reference to: "... it should be pointed out that when using the templates, you should place them vertically against the heel board of the rear seat platform and thereby make the actual drilling and anchorages through the heel board." Am I correct in that the term heal board is the same as floor? The templates do not sit nicely as they describe since my inner wheel well gets a bit in the way and same with the flair of the transmission tunnel. Is it correct that the inside anchor point sits back from the outer point by a good 8" rather than being somewhat parallel to each other (it would also sit well under the rear seat)? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From thomas309 at aol.com Wed Jun 4 20:31:37 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 22:31:37 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Seat Belt mounting holes Message-ID: I think the "heel board" is the vertical section, between the floor, and the rear "seat bottom". I could be wrong, but I'd wait for the general consensus before drilling. Tom In a message dated 6/4/2008 10:22:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: I am getting ready to drill the seat belt mounting holes in my pre-60000 TR3A. I have the 1962 S-T Motor Company memorandum that provides the diagrams on where to drill the holes. What I want to be clear about is its reference to: "... it should be pointed out that when using the templates, you should place them vertically against the heel board of the rear seat platform and thereby make the actual drilling and anchorages through the heel board." Am I correct in that the term heal board is the same as floor? The templates do not sit nicely as they describe since my inner wheel well gets a bit in the way and same with the flair of the transmission tunnel. Is it correct that the inside anchor point sits back from the outer point by a good 8" rather than being somewhat parallel to each other (it would also sit well under the rear seat)? TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thomas309 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From 60TR3A at cox.net Wed Jun 4 21:05:14 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 20:05:14 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Seat Belt mounting holes In-Reply-To: <000001c8c6b2$e362cb00$dc463b47@Scott> References: <000001c8c6b2$e362cb00$dc463b47@Scott> Message-ID: <13873767-C173-4270-9F02-9A828FABC6F0@cox.net> I have a post 60000 car & I have no idea when the seat belts were put in, but my holes are about in the same place : in the corners of the rear floor. I would be happy you send a picture, but again I do not know who or when they were put in... John On 4 Jun, 2008, at 7:21 PM, Scott Suhring wrote: > I am getting ready to drill the seat belt mounting holes in my > pre-60000 > TR3A. I have the 1962 S-T Motor Company memorandum that provides the > diagrams on where to drill the holes. What I want to be clear about > is its > reference to: "... it should be pointed out that when using the > templates, > you should place them vertically against the heel board of the rear > seat > platform and thereby make the actual drilling and anchorages through > the > heel board." Am I correct in that the term heal board is the same as > floor? > The templates do not sit nicely as they describe since my inner > wheel well > gets a bit in the way and same with the flair of the transmission > tunnel. Is > it correct that the inside anchor point sits back from the outer > point by a > good 8" rather than being somewhat parallel to each other (it would > also sit > well under the rear seat)? TIA > > Scott Suhring > Mechanicsburg, PA > '70 TR6 > '59 TR3 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 60tr3a at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Jun 4 21:23:35 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 23:23:35 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 unrestored? Message-ID: Hey TR'ers.. think this eBay TR4 is unrestored? I have 24 doubts - see eBay address below (if you want to kill some time) Carl '63 TR4 since '74 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270243131715#ebay photohosting ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From diggle at clear.net.nz Wed Jun 4 21:56:13 2008 From: diggle at clear.net.nz (Jim and Andreas Vassiliadis) Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2008 15:56:13 +1200 Subject: [TR] trunnions outer washer Message-ID: <001701c8c6c0$18ddf900$6e01a8c0@athlon> Thankyou for the reply Randall. It was good advice. So to recap: When fitting new outer washer and thrust washer onto the new trunnions you have to torque the new outer washer onto the trunnion splines at 50lbs (yeah right) to get a locking groove in its cente. I didn't want to reuse the old washers as there were fairly mangled so this is what happened when I gave it another go. Yes today was my day because I gave the outer washer splining another go and at less than 85lb torque the the head of my new trunnion pin snapped. My mechanic friend said that the outer washer collar has a centre with a diameter that is to small and needs drilling out. My mate will now drill out the washer centres and another pin will be fitted onto the trunnion. Enough metal will be left to allow it to lock but not too much to stop it from grooving. He reckoned that a pin of that diameter should have taken at least 150lbs. So beware all. Jim Vassiliadis and his still immobile 1962 TR4 From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Jun 4 21:56:33 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 21:56:33 -0600 Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a References: <073e01c8c5e8$082cfdf0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> <002801c8c65b$b682ad00$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <007501c8c6c0$258b0f30$9d63b043@rolofson> Man, I was feeling pretty good about life until Chip reminded me I'm a dying breed and Skip reminded me I'll die broke. And here I was considering offering Brian a trade (see options below) plus cash and prizes. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Skip Gurnee To: 308gtsi at adelphia.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a "Brian Induni wrote: Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a ... with the economy the way it is today, I'm wondering if it's worth selling now or waiting another year. Any thoughts? Brian- Find a chart of the Dow Jones Industrials from 1910-1935, and look at the form of it: a big run up and then a precipitous crash in 1929. Then look at a chart of the last 25 years. You'll see an eerily similar pattern, an order of magnitude larger. The coming crash will be a surprise with its velocity, depth, and persistence. At best we have only a few months left. Sell the car as soon as you can, and put the money in a safe place; or keep it as relatively inexpensive transportation. Get a copy of Robert Prechter's "Conquer the Crash" for more information, and specific details of what to do. Sorry for the sermon; it's something I'm passionate about. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jun 5 01:25:52 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 07:25:52 +0000 Subject: [TR] And I thought I was sweating on oil prices!!! In-Reply-To: <00c001c8c683$d8143ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <00c001c8c683$d8143ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: John's story reminded me of an event several months ago, or maybe last year, I am too old to recall exactly. I had my TR3A out on a late evening test drive after some improvements. As I pulled into the left turn lane at a stop light I found myself next to a new silver Lambroughini. As I sat idling the driver of the Lambo lowered his window and said, "I like your car." I thanked him and replied, "I like yours too." Then I raised my hand above the passenger's side toneau and pointed at my dash saying "But I can afford this one." He chuckled and nodded. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Its easy to add contacts from Facebook and other social sites through Windows Live Messenger. Learn how. https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_LearnHow From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jun 5 01:26:15 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 07:26:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] And I thought I was sweating on oil prices!!! In-Reply-To: <00c001c8c683$d8143ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <00c001c8c683$d8143ec0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: John's story reminded me of an event several months ago, or maybe last year, I am too old to recall exactly. I had my TR3A out on a late evening test drive after some improvements. As I pulled into the left turn lane at a stop light I found myself next to a new silver Lambroughini. As I sat idling the driver of the Lambo lowered his window and said, "I like your car." I thanked him and replied, "I like yours too." Then I raised my hand above the passenger's side toneau and pointed at my dash saying "But I can afford this one." He chuckled and nodded. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join you on Windows Live Messenger. https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Thu Jun 5 05:12:10 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 11:12:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3A interior question. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I bought an interior kit from TRF many, many years ago. I had it installed by someone else also years ago. When I installed my carpets last Sept. I noticed that on the vertical pieces between the wheel arches and the door post there is about an inch and a half of exposed body structure at the bottom. Were these installed wrong? Did I get the wrong kit? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join you on Windows Live Messenger. https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends From Chip19474 at aol.com Thu Jun 5 06:27:29 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 08:27:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a Message-ID: ha, ha, ha.....hey, Bud, don't despair - this hobby is what keeps us going and keeps us young at heart. You know, we've all got to be somewhere and this is a great place to be:) I wish I could recall how many times I've heard friends I know who belong to other marque car clubs tell me that "you Triumph guys are really fun"....ride the wave:) chip In a message dated 6/4/2008 8:57:19 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, levilevi at comcast.net writes: I was feeling pretty good about life until Chip reminded me I'm a dying breed and Skip reminded me I'll die broke. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Jun 5 07:28:48 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:28:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spitfire dimension needed In-Reply-To: <0968B83447DA514F977D7522073BE9BACE36EF@BE19.exg3.exghost.com> References: <0968B83447DA514F977D7522073BE9BACE36EF@BE19.exg3.exghost.com> Message-ID: Does anybody have a steering wheel shaft out of a Spitfire they could measure for me? I am looking for the outside diameter measured over the splines that the steering wheel slides over and the shaft diameter itself beyond the splined portion? I am trying to order some quick disconnect parts and am not at home to pull the wheel off and check it. Thanks, Marty Sukey _________________________________________________________________ Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join you on Windows Live Messenger. https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Jun 5 07:31:43 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 06:31:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A interior question. References: Message-ID: <006801c8c710$7ed101d0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Hi Tom, That space or gap near the bottom of the wheel arch and the side panel you are questioning being short, is correct. You should have had in your kit matching vinyl to cover that gap of about 3-4 inches at the bottom. Ibsen 1959 TR3A 1971 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: tom white To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 4:12 AM Subject: [TR] TR3A interior question. I bought an interior kit from TRF many, many years ago. I had it installed by someone else also years ago. When I installed my carpets last Sept. I noticed that on the vertical pieces between the wheel arches and the door post there is about an inch and a half of exposed body structure at the bottom. Were these installed wrong? Did I get the wrong kit? Thanks. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join you on Windows Live Messenger. https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From skip47 at clearwire.net Thu Jun 5 08:06:28 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 07:06:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a References: <073e01c8c5e8$082cfdf0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> <002801c8c65b$b682ad00$6400a8c0@ZEUS> <007501c8c6c0$258b0f30$9d63b043@rolofson> Message-ID: <003b01c8c715$5ac8aa40$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Bud- The message wasn't that we'll die broke, but rather that we can avoid dying broke if we do something about it now! You've got an advantage on 99% of the population knowing that. So act, and prosper. Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: levilevi To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 308gtsi at adelphia.net ; Skip Gurnee Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 8:56 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a Man, I was feeling pretty good about life until Chip reminded me I'm a dying breed and Skip reminded me I'll die broke. And here I was considering offering Brian a trade (see options below) plus cash and prizes. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Thu Jun 5 08:17:51 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2008 10:17:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A upper ball join lubrication Message-ID: <4847f58f.3cf.207f.11593@cogeco.ca> Hi Listers, I don't think my drivers side upper ball joint is getting proper lubrication. When I apply grease it all escapes out the edges of the flat top plate where the grease fitting is attached, the rubber boot doesn't seem to be full and certainly there's no grease overflow in that section. I've tried it both with the road wheel loaded and unloaded (and full steering lock while unloaded). The ball joint is only a season old so I'd really rather not pull the spring etc... Any suggestions for resolving this while the parts are in situ? Compressing he spring further would seem counter productive, extending it more somehow? Loosening the nut? Not sure if I could pry against the upper A arm (to free the spring load) without damaging the rubber boot. Or am I just going to have to break down and pull the suspension apart? sigh... Thanks. From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Jun 5 08:39:38 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 10:39:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] FW: Spitfire dimension needed In-Reply-To: References: <0968B83447DA514F977D7522073BE9BACE36EF@BE19.exg3.exghost.com> Message-ID: Info no longer needed. Thanks, Marty > From: trmarty at hotmail.com> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:28:48 -0400> Subject: [TR] Spitfire dimension needed> > Does anybody have a steering wheel shaft out of a Spitfire they could measure> for me? I am looking for the outside diameter measured over the splines that> the steering wheel slides over and the shaft diameter itself beyond the> splined portion? I am trying to order some quick disconnect parts and am not> at home to pull the wheel off and check it.> > Thanks,> Marty Sukey> _________________________________________________________________> Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join you> on Windows Live Messenger.> https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join you on Windows Live Messenger. https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 5 08:59:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 07:59:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A upper ball join lubrication In-Reply-To: <4847f58f.3cf.207f.11593@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <20080605145907.YBSZ7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Somehow, replacing a part just so you can extend it's life seems counter-intuitive to me. I'd probably just leave it alone, until the (defective) joint wears out, and then replace it with a good one. The grease you've put on top of the ball should work it's way into the joint as you drive the car. But you should be able to change the ball joint without removing the spring. I used to take mine loose all the time, to replace those pesky short-lived rubber bushings in the inner pivots. Just support the suspension a bit (jack and block of wood behind the trunnion) while you undo the nut that holds it to the upper A-arms (to get clearance to remove the nut). Then you can pull the vertical link out enough to work on the nut that holds the ball joint to the vertical link. Not sure if there is room to get in there with the "3 finger" separator; if not, use the 2 hammer approach. You might try using a BFH to peen the corner of the casting down onto the top cover. Or, you could try cleaning it up really good, and laying a bead of JB Weld around the seam between the top cover and the casting. I doubt that would work, but it might be worth a try. Yet another approach might be to pull a corner of the boot down and use a grease needle to fill the boot with grease. That should work it's way up into the joint as you drive. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 5 09:00:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 08:00:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a In-Reply-To: <003b01c8c715$5ac8aa40$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <20080605150047.IPDM8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > but rather that we > can avoid dying broke Shoot, I thought dying broke was the goal ! What good is money in the bank if you're dead ? And you can't take it with you (or so I'm told). Randall From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Jun 5 09:04:42 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 11:04:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a In-Reply-To: <20080605150047.IPDM8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <003b01c8c715$5ac8aa40$6400a8c0@ZEUS> <20080605150047.IPDM8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: > Shoot, I thought dying broke was the goal ! What good is money in the bank> if you're dead ? > > And you can't take it with you (or so I'm told).> > Randall That's my goal, Randall! And, just to make sure I reach my goal, I have become broke while still alive. Screw 'em all, I'm dyin' in debt! John H. From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Thu Jun 5 09:08:28 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2008 11:08:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A upper ball join lubrication Message-ID: <4848016c.390.40d7.15519@cogeco.ca> > Somehow, replacing a part just so you can extend it's life seems > counter-intuitive to me. Agreed, I was hoping to prevent premature wear of what's essentially a new part. I'll try some of your suggestions. Thanks. From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jun 5 09:21:56 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2008 11:21:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Thinking of selling my 4a In-Reply-To: References: <20080605150047.IPDM8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4847CC54.12951.146F4DFD@localhost> > > > but rather that we can avoid dying > > Shoot, I thought dying broke was the goal ! > Screw 'em all, I'm dyin' in debt! As my brother said, which could apply to me just as well, I should be able to retire about five years after I'm dead. On the other hand, one could compute the ideal financial burn rate by projecting forward from the present to one's expected time of death. You just have to narrow down the standard deviation of one's expected time of death. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From nwolf at u.washington.edu Thu Jun 5 09:54:55 2008 From: nwolf at u.washington.edu (nwolf at u.washington.edu) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 08:54:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] And I thought I was sweating on oil prices!!! Message-ID: Neat story! Did the car have a supercharger? Wikipedia puts the 4.5L Bentley's fuel consumption at 15 mpg for the normally-aspirated version and 2.3 mpg for supercharged. (Wow!) With 50 gallons in the tank, he would have had to beat 2.6 mpg to make the trip. 2000 RPM in a 4-cylinder motor is 4000 impulses per minute. I don't know the final drive ratio or wheel size, but if we assume he drove at ~45 mph, it would have taken 173 minutes (692000 impulses) to drive the 130 miles. If this consumed $554 in gas, that's $0.0008 US per impulse, or about 6.25 RPP (Revolutions Per Penny). One could do worse things with a penny... or 55400 of them... -Nick Wolf '62-ish TR4 '86 Jetta TD (45 mpg) Message: 3 Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 21:44:53 +0100 From: "John Macartney" [...] > Just as I was snapping the filler cap closed on the Spitfire, > alongside me comes a beautiful 1926 4.5 litre Bentley. The same type that > raced so successfully at Le Mans all those years ago. Driver was a most > engaging individual, very friendly and responded with humour to my comment > that it would cost him the UK defence budget to re-fill. With aplomb and a > cheery smile, he loosened the Bentley's fuel cap to reveal a hole about 6 > inches in diameter and a *fairly* empty (I'd guess just under half full) but > massive slab tank. In went the nozzle and while he kept the fuel flowing, we > had a pleasant chat. First time I've seen a Bentley refilled from empty > and it didn't happen in a few moments! :) Eventually, the tank was full and > I looked at the pump meter. GBP 143.00 (equal to about US$286.00) and I > commented that I hoped it would get him home. "I hope so too. London's about > 130 miles? With a bit of luck and if I keep the revs below 2000, we > ought to do it." How much did he take on board? My calculator tells me about > 25.8 imperial gallons and there were probably about another 20 gallons still > in it. So, say 50 gallons at GBPUS$554 for the full tank and 130 miles to > eat it all up, it would have cost him somewhere in the region of US$4.26 > PER MILE! Jeez, at that consumption, I guess you could work out the cost per > firing impulse. Anyone care to do it? I'm too tired..... > Jonmac From acs25m at swbell.net Thu Jun 5 10:12:47 2008 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:12:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] upper ball joint lubrication Message-ID: <188728.2634.qm@web81604.mail.mud.yahoo.com> All lister, I had the same problem with the joints on my 250. The problem was that underneath the zerk fitting was a plastic washer. It wasn't strong enough to stop the grease. Remove the plastic and replace with a stainless fender washer of the proper size and no more problems. Give it a try. John Maneke From rick at prop-tech.com Thu Jun 5 10:53:02 2008 From: rick at prop-tech.com (Richard Chandler) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:53:02 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Interior Kit. Message-ID: <200806051300750.SM00642@officeadmin2> Tom wrote: I bought an interior kit from TRF many, many years ago. I had it installed by someone else also years ago. When I installed my carpets last Sept. I noticed that on the vertical pieces between the wheel arches and the door post there is about an inch and a half of exposed body structure at the bottom. Were these installed wrong? Did I get the wrong kit? The pre-60000 and post-60000 kits are quite different. As I originally ordered the wrong carpet kit from TRF for my post-60000 TR3A, I had the pleasure of seeing both kits in detail. TRF was gracious enough to take the incorrect kit back and send me the correct one, which properly fits the step rear "seat". The proper kit fits perfectly, with no exposed flooring. TRF has carpet layouts on their website, so you can compare the two patterns. Richard Chandler PropTech Marine Propellers 13239 NE 20th Street Bellevue, WA 98005 425 643 0155 www.prop-tech.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 5 10:55:08 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 09:55:08 -0700 Subject: [TR] Mystery differential - MGA prefix Message-ID: <20080605165508.QRVL23887.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> This differential was sold to me as being a Stag unit that had been rebuilt with 3.45 gears. But I discovered last night that the new front bearing does not fit. While waiting for tech support to open this morning, it finally dawned on me that perhaps it is not a Stag diff at all ... sure enough, the number stamped on the housing appears to be "MGA 4906" and even the rear covers do not interchange (two bolts do not match up, the rest do). At this point, I think I'm going to try to move the 3.45 gear set into the old diff housing; but I'm wondering if anyone recognizes the MGA prefix and what car it's from. It takes a larger front bearing than the Stag unit apparently does, which might make it a better unit to rebuild. The mystery front bearing has an OD of about 2.442", while the replacement is only 2.250". Randall From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Thu Jun 5 12:47:05 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2008 14:47:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A upper ball join lubrication Message-ID: <484834a9.9d.456d.10425@cogeco.ca> Thanks John, My direct replies to your email bounce back so I'm replying via list: Mine isn't leaking around the zerk itself but around the edges of the larger flat section (~1.5" dia) the zerk is screwed into. Art. From BearTranserv at aol.com Thu Jun 5 14:21:57 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 16:21:57 EDT Subject: [TR] Engine Swaps Message-ID: This was just posted on the MG list...purist beware.... http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ____________________________________ From: RampantNM To: BearTranserv Sent: 6/5/2008 2:12:36 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time Subj: Fwd: [Mgs] Engine Swaps **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jun 5 15:20:59 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 14:20:59 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 unrestored? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <36DB0F4039904EE1B715B63A8FECEC6C@GeoPC> I'm curious what those doubts are. There have been some obvious changes that one may or may not regard as maintenance or restoration, but are there clues that the paint, chrome and interior are not original? Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: > Hey TR'ers.. think this eBay TR4 is unrestored? > I have 24 doubts... From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jun 5 16:28:25 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 05 Jun 2008 22:28:25 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR4 unrestored? Message-ID: <060520082228.27225.4848688900081B0800006A5922165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I'd be interested in seeing the underneath of the car. Pretty clearly this would be a great car to start with. Clean engine. Coil has been replaced. Good rocker cover. Cockpit clean. Engine bay doesn't look repainted recently, yet shows no rust. Exhaust manifold shows no scaling, maybe painted. Yellow fan conversion (or was that original with 4's?). Bumpers straight. Paint and chrome look okay from the distance of the pictures. Wire wheels don't show the rust of a car driven in winter. Depending on the reserve, and depending on the mileage of the engine, it could be a good acquisition. If I were to take on another project after I finish building a garage this year, it would be a four like this...or, ironically, worse but cheaper going in so I could do it all from scratch like I did the 3. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A TS 58667 New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: CarlSereda at aol.com > Hey TR'ers.. think this eBay TR4 is unrestored? > I have 24 doubts - see eBay address below (if you want to kill some time) > Carl > '63 TR4 since '74 From 60TR3A at cox.net Thu Jun 5 18:25:40 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 17:25:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Exhaust Gas analyzer Message-ID: <5BE49141-CE75-4693-BDDD-AD2DCCC04393@cox.net> I used to have an exhaust gas analyzer that i bought during the original gasoline mess in the mid-70's. When I no longer had a car that an amateur like myself could play with it sat on a shelf in my garage in Florida & before i knew it it was a pile of rust. Now that we are in another gas crisis, I have my TR3, and I live in the desert I was thinking about buying another one. Both Google & Amazon identify the Gastester Digital Exhaust Gas Analyzer for $220. The next one is over $2K. Any thoughts on the idea as well as this particular. John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From jmcoh at comcast.net Thu Jun 5 20:10:56 2008 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 22:10:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses Message-ID: <000001c8c77a$8e4c9420$ff04454b@COHEN1> I am getting really frustrated trying to track down the source of an electrical problem with my 76 TR6. I am blowing red fuses immediately when I turn on the parking lights. The headlight switch tests ok as do all the bulbs and connections at the tail and marker lights. I have checked all the connections under the dash and nothing appears out of sorts. My meter reads 15.5 volts across the fuse with the parking lights on and the engine off. Everything worked great when I put the car away last fall. One additional factor is that I installed the Advance Auto Wire headlight wiring kit last fall which works great and should not be causing any problems with the red fuse. Any suggestions would be appreciated. John Cohen From CarlSereda at aol.com Thu Jun 5 21:17:31 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 23:17:31 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 unrestored? Message-ID: well my doubts about the 'unrestored' TR4 on eBay were: 1) front bumper overiders in wrong position 2) aftermarket looking wood dash & custom radio blank 3) new looking top dash 4) new seats (as well as entire interior & roof) 5) fresh (enough) aftermarket seatbelts 6) TR250 radiator fan? (or the rare TR4A plastic?) 7) aftermarket spin-on oil filter 8) missing authentic smog equip 9) jet-coated exhaust manifold 10) show quality valve cover 11) better performing MGB distributor cap & wires 12) new looking radiator shroud 13) carb domes polished 14) new painted exterior? 15) performance engine coil 16) all modern hose clamps 17) new battery cables & factory approved solenoid relocation! 18) new mufflers 19) deluxe steering wheel cover 20) windsheild wind-wings 21) wheel well underside condition (the bit you can see) - 42 yrs old? 22) non-rotted windsheild glass seal and base seal, 23) door seals look fresh too shoot I ran out before I hit 24 but after talking to the owner just now - well, I thought motor might be rebuilt - he said no smoke, no wierd noises, but then he said carbs running a bit rich.. wondering; could 'blow-by' be causing this so called richness? - I see he's directing crankcase gasses into intake manifold with modern hose/valve. If richness can't be reduced - can it be an original 91,000 mile problem? (yes) He says the previous owner; a guy (with his wife and the TR4, no kids, living out in the boonies) made all the updates and maintained it after was delivered from CA. It's a live axle version. Maybe it IS an 'unrestored' TR4 - it's certainly well maintained and quite a bit rebuilt - but now I'm curious as to engine compression.. still, great rest of the car! Carl '63 TR4 since '74 << I'm curious what those doubts are. There have been some obvious changes that one may or may not regard as maintenance or restoration, but are there clues that the paint, chrome and interior are not original? Geo >>


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 5 21:35:40 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 20:35:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses In-Reply-To: <000001c8c77a$8e4c9420$ff04454b@COHEN1> Message-ID: <20080606033540.LDPU7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> John, Clearly you've got a short to ground somewhere, most likely in the wiring IMO. One way to avoid buying so many fuses is to temporarily jumper across the fuse with a headlight bulb. The bulb will light only dimly if at all if there is no short, but light brightly if there is a short. Thus giving you a visual indication of when the problem is resolved. However the bulb will limit the current enough to avoid damaging the wires (any more than they already are). My first step would be to turn off the control for the dash lights. If that removes the short, you know the short is in the dash light wiring (which in my experience is the most likely place for it to be). If not, I believe you can separate the two red wires at the fuse block, to see if the problem is at the front of the car or the rear. Then examine the wires near each lamp holder for protruding bullet connectors, exposed wires, cracked insulation, wires running across sharp edges, etc. Also try wiggling the wires to see if the short goes away. If so, you're close to the problem. Otherwise, you're going to need some special tools. There are commercially available short finders, like this one : http://tinyurl.com/5l6kjt Or you can sometimes "make do" with the headlight bulb as mentioned above, and an ordinary "Boy Scout" hand-held magnetic compass. The compass needle will deflect when it gets next to a wire carrying current. Either way, the drill is to remove all the normal loads (tail lights, etc.) and then try to trace where the current is flowing. When you reach the end, you have to be near the short. HTH Randall From CarlSereda at aol.com Thu Jun 5 21:36:22 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 23:36:22 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 unrestored? Message-ID: ps; my 2 favorite 'unrestored' TR4s are Dereck Pollock's (cover pic on first 'Original TR' by Bill Piggot) and Geo Hahn's beautiful example. Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 5 21:44:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 20:44:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] Exhaust Gas analyzer In-Reply-To: <5BE49141-CE75-4693-BDDD-AD2DCCC04393@cox.net> Message-ID: <20080606034428.LFUB7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Both Google & Amazon identify the Gastester Digital Exhaust > Gas Analyzer for $220. The next one is over $2K. Any > thoughts on the idea as well as this particular. While I have no experience with it, I believe the Gunson unit has some serious limitations. Google for UEGO, you should find lots of matches for newer designs with faster response time, more range and better accuracy. While most of them are designed for permanent installation, I understand they work fine with the probe just temporarily stuck up the tailpipe and held there with a clamp or similar. Eg, http://www.turboneonstore.com/customer/product.php?productid=381 Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 5 21:47:03 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 20:47:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 unrestored? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080606034702.WAAO8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > well my doubts about the 'unrestored' TR4 on eBay were: Which I suppose points up the old problem; one man's "restoration" is another man's "maintenance". Look at the other side of the question; if he had claimed it WAS "restored", we'd all be criticizing the things that weren't done "correctly" ! Randall From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jun 6 00:32:43 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 00:32:43 -0600 Subject: [TR] Engine Swaps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c8c79f$21413c30$6401a8c0@sniffer> Sweet, has sort of a Shelby Cobra meets TR3 look to it. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BearTranserv at aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 2:22 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Engine Swaps This was just posted on the MG list...purist beware.... http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. Dan McKay ____________________________________ From: RampantNM To: BearTranserv Sent: 6/5/2008 2:12:36 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time Subj: Fwd: [Mgs] Engine Swaps **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Jun 6 06:26:12 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 08:26:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Exhaust Gas analyzer References: <20080606034428.LFUB7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <003701c8c7d0$88ba39d0$0300a8c0@Desktop> If you can get a old sun gas analyzer They were the best out in the early 70s I may be able to walk you thru. it on how to use it Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: "'60TR3A'" <60TR3A at cox.net>; "'Triumph car discussion Sports'" Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 11:44 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Exhaust Gas analyzer >> Both Google & Amazon identify the Gastester Digital Exhaust >> Gas Analyzer for $220. The next one is over $2K. Any >> thoughts on the idea as well as this particular. > > While I have no experience with it, I believe the Gunson unit has some > serious limitations. > > Google for UEGO, you should find lots of matches for newer designs with > faster response time, more range and better accuracy. While most of them > are designed for permanent installation, I understand they work fine with > the probe just temporarily stuck up the tailpipe and held there with a > clamp > or similar. > > Eg, > http://www.turboneonstore.com/customer/product.php?productid=381 > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Jun 6 06:25:30 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 08:25:30 EDT Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses Message-ID: John, I just helped a guy last week with the same problem in his MGB.....turned out to be a bad bulb that was grounding in one of his front parking light socket assemblies. Here's what we did to trouble shoot: remove the fuse and the red/green wire (spade) from the "red fuse" fuse position; leave the red wires connected to the fuse position; set your multimeter to the "buzz" setting (that's the position that sounds a buzzer in the meter when the test leads are touched together); touch one test lead to the spade connectors where the red wires are connected on the fuse box and touch the other test lead to a good body ground or your battery ground since it's right there; if the meter buzzes, you've got a confirmed short to ground somewhere in the marker light circuit. Now the fun part.....isolating the bad bulb or bad socket. Leave the fuse out; start with the nasty rear tailight sockets - they have a reputation for getting funky; pull one socket out - check with meter back at the fuse box for a "buzz"; repeat the buzz test for the next socket and so on moving to the front parking lights. I've never encountered an electrical problem with the side marker lamps so you can save them for last in your process of elimination. Good luck.... Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/5/2008 7:11:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jmcoh at comcast.net writes: I am blowing red fuses immediately when I turn on the parking lights. **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Jun 6 06:50:00 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 12:50:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses Message-ID: <060620081250.22405.484932780001907F000057852200758942970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Chip19474 at aol.com > I've never encountered an electrical problem with the > side marker lamps so you can save them for last in your process of > elimination. I have. Bulb shorted to ground, left rear marker light. Coupled with having the wrong (US) fuses in the car, this fault "allowed" me to learn how to install a new wiring harness in my TR6. :-( Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Fri Jun 6 12:17:10 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 14:17:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses Message-ID: <48497f26.16f.3174.26534@cogeco.ca> >Clearly you've got a short to ground somewhere, most >likely in the wiring IMO. There's another kind of short *besides* the wiring? ;) From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 6 12:20:21 2008 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 11:20:21 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses In-Reply-To: <48497f26.16f.3174.26534@cogeco.ca> References: <48497f26.16f.3174.26534@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: Certainly... short of money, short of patience, short of space, etc. Mike Denman On Jun 6, 2008, at 11:17 AM, amcewen2 at cogeco.ca wrote: >> Clearly you've got a short to ground somewhere, most >likely in the >> wiring IMO. > > There's another kind of short *besides* the wiring? ;) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 6 12:29:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 11:29:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses In-Reply-To: <48497f26.16f.3174.26534@cogeco.ca> References: <48497f26.16f.3174.26534@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <02c501c8c803$3c0385a0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > There's another kind of short *besides* the wiring? ;) I meant as opposed to inside a light fixture, switch or other device. And yes, those can happen too. Randall From allegrorover at mac.com Fri Jun 6 12:38:30 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 12:38:30 -0600 Subject: [TR] Salt Lake City area Message-ID: <4721CD28-ACEC-4901-9790-E417CA7158E6@mac.com> List, Is there anyone in the Salt Lake City area that can recommend a driveshaft service facility. I am making all plans to change out the transmission at Hill AFB and if Hermann recommends some change to the driveshaft so this won't happen again I need to be prepared as I won't be in the area all that long. In case you all are interested the rear seal is definetly the culprit, I took the tranny cover off and can see the destroyed seal. But in trying to move the shaft back and forth I can't see how it struck the seal, unless there is other movement of the original slip shaft that would make it move further than I can by hand. I can tell you this much the floorboards won't rust for a very long time the rear seal leaked a lot of oil on the inside floor boards, that might be the reason I didn't notice the leak......humm? Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From team.net at daveola.com Fri Jun 6 13:00:22 2008 From: team.net at daveola.com (David Ljung Madison) Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 12:00:22 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine Swaps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > This was just posted on the MG list...purist beware.... > http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm Interesting - good looking car, would love to get more info on how it drives, since it looks like it's fairly close to being drivable. What I don't understand, though, is why he cannibalized a "straight, rust-free" vintage TR3. I'm not a purist, but he has replaced the chassis, suspension, seats, interior, engine, electrical system, transmission cover (and presumably the transmission as well?). It seems there's not much left besides the body panels, and I would guess you could buy a complete new set of body panels for about $10k, perhaps (with a few panels needing to be salvaged from dead cars). I'm guessing that a "straight, rust-free" TR3 from California would be over $10k, and the panels are not in new shape (though he didn't say much about the donor car, I suppose the engine/chassis/transmission might have been cheap). But it seems to me for the same price he could have bought replacement panels, had mostly new metal for the body, and not unnecessarily removed a TR3 from the road?? It would be interesting to get more info on his buying decisions. Again, not that I'm a purist, seeing as how my car has plenty of conversions to it already. :) Dave --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dave Ljung Madison http://GetDave.com/ 415 341-5555 ------------ "Preferred over shiny round objects 2-to-1" ------------------ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jun 6 14:08:44 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 16:08:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] Salt Lake City area In-Reply-To: <4721CD28-ACEC-4901-9790-E417CA7158E6@mac.com> References: <4721CD28-ACEC-4901-9790-E417CA7158E6@mac.com> Message-ID: <000401c8c811$212b8a80$210110ac@bobspc> Tony, I had mine made by Fleet Pride which is a national outfit http://www.fleetpride.com/fp_p/branch.html There's a Salt Lake City facility too. They turned it around in 24 hours. Solid shaft, new yokes and u-joints for $205. Of course that's in good old expensive Connecticut. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 2:39 PM To: email list Subject: [TR] Salt Lake City area List, Is there anyone in the Salt Lake City area that can recommend a driveshaft service facility. I am making all plans to change out the transmission at Hill AFB and if Hermann recommends some change to the driveshaft so this won't happen again I need to be prepared as I won't be in the area all that long. In case you all are interested the rear seal is definetly the culprit, I took the tranny cover off and can see the destroyed seal. But in trying to move the shaft back and forth I can't see how it struck the seal, unless there is other movement of the original slip shaft that would make it move further than I can by hand. I can tell you this much the floorboards won't rust for a very long time the rear seal leaked a lot of oil on the inside floor boards, that might be the reason I didn't notice the leak......humm? Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.0.0/1486 - Release Date: 6/5/2008 6:29 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 6 15:29:09 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 14:29:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Engine Swaps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <02fa01c8c81c$5b0edf80$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > It seems there's not much left besides the body panels, and > I would guess you could buy a complete new set of body panels > for about $10k, Where ?! Keep in mind, he didn't just use the exterior body panels, but the entire body tub. I'm not aware of anyone making tubs ... if there were, I might be able to save TS39781LO. Randall From allegrorover at mac.com Fri Jun 6 16:06:39 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 16:06:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Bmcu] Salt Lake City area In-Reply-To: <484990FC.6080009@cs.utah.edu> References: <4721CD28-ACEC-4901-9790-E417CA7158E6@mac.com> <001501c8c80b$0bb81cf0$6401a8c0@sniffer> <484990FC.6080009@cs.utah.edu> Message-ID: Thanks to all that replied, It looks like six states can and will do the job, (quoted$60.00 for shortening and balancing) IF I need it, which it seems like I might be best advised to do. Again I will speak to Hermann and get his best advice. I did find the tag for the original supplier of my trans, Allstate Gear, out of San Antonio, but he wants 750 for a replacement, final figure hopefully on Monday, (kinda hoping that a repeat customer might get a break HAHA). Still have to work out shipping and where the heck I'm going to have it delivered..... On Jun 6, 2008, at 1:33 PM, Gary Lindstrom wrote: > I have had good luck with Six States Distributors, Inc., 1388 S. 300 > W., SLC, UT 84115, 801-488-4677, 800-960-4677 for drive line work > (drive shafts, flywheels, differentials, etc. > > --Gary Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Fri Jun 6 16:56:01 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 18:56:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing Message-ID: <0C70407A71EB4B42BA0C0664D917FECB@chuck> Oops! I used the wrong e-mail account to send my previous attempt. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: C E White [mailto:Chux.Stuff at GMail.Com] Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 6:53 PM To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: OD Speedometer Cable Routing I've just completed installing an A-type overdrive into my 1965 TR4A and am trying to route the new, longer speedometer cable. Can anyone tell me the proper routing of this thing? Every attempt so far has resulted in a lot of cable left over! Yes, I have the correct cable (96"). Chuck White Xenia, OH 1965 TR4A IRS 1970 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 6 17:36:25 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 16:36:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: <0C70407A71EB4B42BA0C0664D917FECB@chuck> References: <0C70407A71EB4B42BA0C0664D917FECB@chuck> Message-ID: <032501c8c82e$22943c10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Yes, I have the correct cable (96"). Chuck, I'm going to go out on a limb and say I disagree with you. According to memory and the info I have handy, the OD 4A used a shorter cable combined with an angle drive. The earlier models used the 96" cable, with no angle drive. The lack of angle drive forced the cable to make a big, wide loop under the RH floorpan to match the drive on the OD without crimping the cable, hence the long length. But the redesigned tunnel for the 4A no longer allowed that approach, hence the introduction of the angle drive. Randall From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Fri Jun 6 18:22:41 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 20:22:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: <032501c8c82e$22943c10$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <24E54EB7A2BC469B89C6DB2648DD7CA6@chuck> Thanks, Randall. I have the right angle drive and the old cable so I'll give that a try. Is there any special routing to get it from the speedo (LHD) to the angle drive on the right side of the OD? Chuck -----Original Message----- From: On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 7:36 PM To: 'C E White'; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing > Yes, I have the correct cable (96"). Chuck, I'm going to go out on a limb and say I disagree with you. According to memory and the info I have handy, the OD 4A used a shorter cable combined with an angle drive. The earlier models used the 96" cable, with no angle drive. The lack of angle drive forced the cable to make a big, wide loop under the RH floorpan to match the drive on the OD without crimping the cable, hence the long length. But the redesigned tunnel for the 4A no longer allowed that approach, hence the introduction of the angle drive. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jun 6 18:29:21 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 20:29:21 EDT Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing Message-ID: What is the correct cable for the angle drive? I have installed a J type and have the angle drive and have not yet come to thinking about the cable. ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?& NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From jmcoh at comcast.net Fri Jun 6 18:46:03 2008 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 20:46:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses Message-ID: <000901c8c837$dd85d070$ff04454b@COHEN1> Thanks to everyone who responded with great suggestions on finding my electrical short. After collecting the responses, I went out to the garage with renewed enthusiasm. I checked out the usual suspects like taillights and dash lights and finally found an abraded wire in the front left marker light. It was the last place I looked before tearing the dash apart. Once again the list comes thru and makes owning these cars worthwhile. John Cohen From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jun 6 18:50:08 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 20:50:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses In-Reply-To: <000901c8c837$dd85d070$ff04454b@COHEN1> Message-ID: <4849A300.6559.631BC5D@localhost> On 6 Jun 2008 at 20:46, John Cohen wrote: > It was the last place I looked before tearing the dash apart I'm betting it would have been last place you looked, dash or not, certainly the last place before looking anywhere else. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Fri Jun 6 19:35:01 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 18:35:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: When I installed an A-Type OD with an angle drive I used the same cable that I had been using for the non-OD box. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 5:29 PM Subject: Re: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing > What is the correct cable for the angle drive? From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 6 19:49:18 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 18:49:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: <24E54EB7A2BC469B89C6DB2648DD7CA6@chuck> Message-ID: <20080607014918.FSDP28655.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Is there any special routing > to get it from the speedo > (LHD) to the angle drive on the right side of the OD? Sorry, that I don't know. Hopefully someone else does ? Randall From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com Fri Jun 6 19:50:50 2008 From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 18:50:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses References: Message-ID: <000801c8c840$eda9ced0$95b05545@DFKQ4L31> Speaking of Advanced Auto Wire I was on their web site the other day and it says that the business is closed due to the death of the owner. Anyone hear anything about this? Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 6 20:29:01 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 19:29:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] Blowing Fuses In-Reply-To: <000801c8c840$eda9ced0$95b05545@DFKQ4L31> Message-ID: <20080607022901.JMPU20096.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Speaking of Advanced Auto Wire I was on their web site the > other day and it says that the business is closed due to the > death of the owner. Anyone hear anything about this? Yes. Dan Masters announced on BCF a few days ago that Mike had died; and that they would be refunding money for all outstanding AAW orders. That's all I know. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jun 7 04:49:37 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 06:49:37 EDT Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing Message-ID: Thanks. I had not tried any cable as yet. ************** Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From spamiam at comcast.net Sat Jun 7 08:27:15 2008 From: spamiam at comcast.net (spamiam at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2008 14:27:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing Message-ID: <060720081427.27820.484A9AC3000B148C00006CAC2207021553030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> The secret is the 90 degree angle drive which attaches to the output of the OD. It is on the passenger side of the OD, as you know. The angle drive will interfere a little on the transmission cover. Ideally you cut a hole and fabricate a little "bump" that clears the angle drive and seals well to the cover. Preferably removable in case you need to service the angle drive or cable. The LONG cable specified for the OD in the TR4a is not correct. Try using the original speedo cable and see how it fits. I think I needed an extrra few inches, but not nearly as much as the cable specified. Once you have an idea of what length you need, then look at the various cables available and pick the best one. -Tony From BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net Sat Jun 7 15:37:29 2008 From: BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net (C E White) Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 17:37:29 -0400 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: <060720081427.27820.484A9AC3000B148C00006CAC2207021553030E07030E9F9C@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1E9774B9D6EB4514ACC00F543973EE66@chuck> Thanks for all the help and information Tony, Randall, and others. I've re-installed my original (66"?) speedo cable and it fit perfectly. The routing I used was from the back of the speedo out the grommet in the firewall, across in front of the battery box, down the passenger's side of the firewall, under the car but inside the tranny tunnel to the right angle drive adaptor. I used zip ties to keep the cable away from the back of the head, the exhaust pipes and the passenger's side muffler (my '4A is fitted with the dual exhaust system). Happy motoring! Chuck -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spamiam at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 10:27 AM To: Triumphs List; Chux.Stuff at GMail.Com Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing The secret is the 90 degree angle drive which attaches to the output of the OD. It is on the passenger side of the OD, as you know. The angle drive will interfere a little on the transmission cover. Ideally you cut a hole and fabricate a little "bump" that clears the angle drive and seals well to the cover. Preferably removable in case you need to service the angle drive or cable. The LONG cable specified for the OD in the TR4a is not correct. Try using the original speedo cable and see how it fits. I think I needed an extrra few inches, but not nearly as much as the cable specified. Once you have an idea of what length you need, then look at the various cables available and pick the best one. -Tony From thomas309 at aol.com Sat Jun 7 19:58:42 2008 From: thomas309 at aol.com (thomas309 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 21:58:42 EDT Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing Message-ID: Tony Randall has a TR, and is on this list? I thought he had died some time ago! In a message dated 6/7/2008 5:38:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, BN_Knight at Ameritech.Net writes: Thanks for all the help and information Tony, Randall, and others. I've re-installed my original (66"?) speedo cable and it fit perfectly. The routing I used was from the back of the speedo out the grommet in the firewall, across in front of the battery box, down the passenger's side of the firewall, under the car but inside the tranny tunnel to the right angle drive adaptor. I used zip ties to keep the cable away from the back of the head, the exhaust pipes and the passenger's side muffler (my '4A is fitted with the dual exhaust system). Happy motoring! Chuck -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+bn_knight=ameritech.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of spamiam at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 10:27 AM To: Triumphs List; Chux.Stuff at GMail.Com Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing The secret is the 90 degree angle drive which attaches to the output of the OD. It is on the passenger side of the OD, as you know. The angle drive will interfere a little on the transmission cover. Ideally you cut a hole and fabricate a little "bump" that clears the angle drive and seals well to the cover. Preferably removable in case you need to service the angle drive or cable. The LONG cable specified for the OD in the TR4a is not correct. Try using the original speedo cable and see how it fits. I think I needed an extrra few inches, but not nearly as much as the cable specified. Once you have an idea of what length you need, then look at the various cables available and pick the best one. -Tony This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as thomas309 at aol.com http://www.team.net/archive **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sun Jun 8 07:25:12 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 09:25:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] starter or battery References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided to give me a headache. I've got a problem either with battery or starter. When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering about 4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the bonnet. Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little at all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on all night and now the chattering is loud. So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is doing something well known. Original 1972 starter on the car. Cheers, Mark 1972 TR6 From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jun 8 07:47:14 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2008 09:47:14 -0400 Subject: [TR] starter or battery In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <484BAAA2.18510.E1F8D9A@localhost> On 8 Jun 2008 at 9:25, Mark Hooper wrote: > So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter > solenoid is doing something well known. You have done the obvious and cleaned the batteyr terminals, right? High resistance between the battery and solenoid would allow the solenoid to close, but as soon as the starter starts to draw too much current the voltage at the solenoid would be reduced by that resistance. This could immediately cause the solenoid to open. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sun Jun 8 07:59:48 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 09:59:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] starter or battery References: <484BAAA2.18510.E1F8D9A@localhost> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA26@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Hi Jim: I've converted to the bolt-on terminal sort of battery. Everything seems tight. The battery is from 2001, so getting on. But still, it seems to have gone from quite normal to nothing in 1/2 an hour with no seeming shorts or breaks in the car electrics. I unplugged the charger and the battery alone barely able to even chatter the solenoid, so the battery seems to be the primary cultprit. I'm charging an old post unit to act as a comparison. Of course, the batter is a lot easier to replace than the starter, especially with a header installed. Cheers, Mark ________________________________ From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net on behalf of Jim Muller Sent: Sun 08/06/2008 9:47 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] starter or battery On 8 Jun 2008 at 9:25, Mark Hooper wrote: > So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter > solenoid is doing something well known. You have done the obvious and cleaned the batteyr terminals, right? High resistance between the battery and solenoid would allow the solenoid to close, but as soon as the starter starts to draw too much current the voltage at the solenoid would be reduced by that resistance. This could immediately cause the solenoid to open. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 8 09:35:05 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 11:35:05 EDT Subject: [TR] starter or battery Message-ID: In a message dated 6/8/2008 8:25:48 AM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and > backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little at > all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on all > night and now the chattering is loud. > > So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is > doing > something well known. > Hi Mark! Turn on the lights. If they stay bright whilst the starter chatters it is the starter. If they dim our go out all together look at the battery or the batt terminals. Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jun 8 09:46:58 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2008 11:46:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] starter or battery In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA26@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <484BC6B2.4313.E8D2C49@localhost> On 8 Jun 2008 at 9:59, Mark Hooper wrote: > I've converted to the bolt-on terminal sort of battery. Everything > seems tight. Dave Massey's suggestion is a good one but there is one thing we haven't mentioned yet. Check the various grounds, battery to chassis, chassis to engine, or bettery to engine if that's how it is wired -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Jun 8 13:10:31 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2008 12:10:31 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] starter or battery References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <001801c8c99b$5252c890$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> The easiest thing to do is pull the battery and have it tested or try a borrowed good battery. regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "TR list" Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 6:25 AM Subject: [6pack] starter or battery > Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided to give me > a headache. > > I've got a problem either with battery or starter. > > When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering about > 4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the bonnet. > > Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and > backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little at > all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on all > night and now the chattering is loud. > > So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is doing > something well known. > > Original 1972 starter on the car. > > Cheers, > > Mark > 1972 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jun 8 12:42:31 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 14:42:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] starter or battery In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu> <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <000b01c8c997$6ca42300$210110ac@bobspc> Mark, I just went through this last week and here's what the List suggested I test. 1. Turn on the lights and turn key to run position. If the Lights go out, you've got a short either in the starter or the cabling. You can then narrow it down by removing the 3 big main wires off of the starter post and tie them together with a bolt. Lights on again, key to run position and check if lights go off. If they don't your starter is bad. If they do, you've got a short in your cables. 2. Test all battery readings the starter end of the cables as opposed to just putting your meter on the battery terminals. 3. check the voltage at the WR wire where it leaves the starter relay for the starter, while a helper holds the key to the start position. If you see 12v here, check again directly at the starter, both from the terminal that gets the WR wire to the starter housing, and from the end of the big stud that gets the battery cable to the housing. If you still find 12v in both places, the starter/solenoid is bad. In my case just doing step #1 isolated the problem to a short in the starter. Plus the smoke coming out of the starter was a dead give-away. Once I got the starter out I clamped it in a vice and hooked a battery to it. The gear jumped but wouldn't spin. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 9:25 AM To: 6pack; TR list Subject: [6pack] starter or battery Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided to give me a headache. I've got a problem either with battery or starter. When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering about 4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the bonnet. Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little at all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on all night and now the chattering is loud. So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is doing something well known. Original 1972 starter on the car. Cheers, Mark 1972 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.0.0/1489 - Release Date: 6/7/2008 11:17 AM From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sun Jun 8 13:27:54 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 15:27:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] starter or battery In-Reply-To: <000b01c8c997$6ca42300$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0847832E@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Thanks to all for the diagnostic aids: It appears that the battery is at fault. If I put a set of jumpers on from the city car then the TR6 fires right up. So, the battery would seem to have lost it's charge and is not charging. Strangely it is not hot which often happens when a cell shorts out and the charger is left on. Just as well in most respects. Replacing a battery is simple compared to the starter. Cheers, Mark -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: June 8, 2008 2:43 PM To: Mark Hooper; '6pack'; 'TR list' Subject: RE: [6pack] starter or battery Mark, I just went through this last week and here's what the List suggested I test. 1. Turn on the lights and turn key to run position. If the Lights go out, you've got a short either in the starter or the cabling. You can then narrow it down by removing the 3 big main wires off of the starter post and tie them together with a bolt. Lights on again, key to run position and check if lights go off. If they don't your starter is bad. If they do, you've got a short in your cables. 2. Test all battery readings the starter end of the cables as opposed to just putting your meter on the battery terminals. 3. check the voltage at the WR wire where it leaves the starter relay for the starter, while a helper holds the key to the start position. If you see 12v here, check again directly at the starter, both from the terminal that gets the WR wire to the starter housing, and from the end of the big stud that gets the battery cable to the housing. If you still find 12v in both places, the starter/solenoid is bad. In my case just doing step #1 isolated the problem to a short in the starter. Plus the smoke coming out of the starter was a dead give-away. Once I got the starter out I clamped it in a vice and hooked a battery to it. The gear jumped but wouldn't spin. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 9:25 AM To: 6pack; TR list Subject: [6pack] starter or battery Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided to give me a headache. I've got a problem either with battery or starter. When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering about 4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the bonnet. Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little at all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on all night and now the chattering is loud. So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is doing something well known. Original 1972 starter on the car. Cheers, Mark 1972 TR6 _______________________________________________ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 8 14:41:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 13:41:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] starter or battery In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0847832E@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <20080608204140.HZYX23887.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > Strangely it is not hot which often happens when a cell > shorts out and the charger is left on. Lots of other ways for a battery to fail besides a shorted cell. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jun 8 16:06:40 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 18:06:40 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A assembly sequence. Message-ID: Maybe this will help someone, maybe not. May be this is documented somewhere, maybe not. If you are assembling a TR3A, assemble the handbrake BEFORE putting on the exhaust system. The pivot bolt has a nyloc jam nut that sits just enough behind the exhaust to really tick you off. I had the front of the car on jack stands and so. . .when the jam nut slipped from my aging and not so nimble fingers, it rolled inside the chassis, where, by the way, it will live for the rest of its days. Let it be known that anyone riding with me who asks if I hear a rattle, will be responded to in a rude manner. Red locktite it is. I would rather have the handbrake lever come off in my hand and go careening off a cliff than remove that exhaust system at this stage. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Sun Jun 8 19:13:49 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 21:13:49 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Yellow plugs - the conclusion Message-ID: <6095626.1212974029975.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi folks, Well I think the problem has been solved - junk in the carb jets. I took straw (from a spray bottle), put it over the jet (dome and piston removed, carb still on car) and blew down it while looking into the (emptied) float bowl. Saw small black particles blown out. Encouraged by this, I reassambled carbs and cleaned out jets as per recommended technique in Haynes, ie rev the engine and hold the palm of your hand over the carb throat. Produces a serious vacuum that helps suck any crud out of the jet. Took the car for a test drive and whoopee all plugs are back to a nice tan-brown color. Just to be on the safe side I then replaced all the rubber fuel hoses from the fuel pump to the carbs. (I cut open a section of the old rubber (8 years old) but it looked just fine) Now, if the weather would cool down somewhat I'll be cruising - record high temperatures expected tomorrow - 101F Cheers, Adrian TS 58325 From maya2blue at juno.com Sun Jun 8 20:41:25 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 21:41:25 -0500 Subject: [TR] HS2's /needles/springs Message-ID: <20080608.214126.4944.1.maya2blue@juno.com> I have a US 1500 1978 Triumph Spitfire with HS2's (tagged AUC9831 & AUC9831R - handmarked on the top AUD9253 & AUD9256) I use K&N filters and a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. I am using AN needles. I have no idea what springs are in place. My questions: 1) Is the AN needle okay for street use? 2) What springs do I need, and how do I tell what I have? tks. harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Summer Spa Sweepstakes Enter for your chance to WIN a Summer Spa Vacation! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UbfIOIjDpzwyIvLvSrSoZoJfIlZJcZo7fDciujA8X39e3H/ From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jun 8 20:59:10 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 20:59:10 -0600 Subject: [TR] HS2's /needles/springs In-Reply-To: <20080608.214126.4944.1.maya2blue@juno.com> References: <20080608.214126.4944.1.maya2blue@juno.com> Message-ID: <001c01c8c9dc$cc4d1150$6401a8c0@sniffer> Harve, According to the SU Tuning Guide from SpeedSport the "AN" needle is the standard needle and your springs should be Red. This would be a good place to start given your modifications and work from there. Due to the age of the book this listing is for Spits up to 1964 with the HS2 carb. I can forward the PDF to you if you like, it has some handy tuning and re-building tips. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of maya2blue at juno.com Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 8:41 PM To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com; spitfires at autox.team.net; spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] HS2's /needles/springs I have a US 1500 1978 Triumph Spitfire with HS2's (tagged AUC9831 & AUC9831R - handmarked on the top AUD9253 & AUD9256) I use K&N filters and a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. I am using AN needles. I have no idea what springs are in place. My questions: 1) Is the AN needle okay for street use? 2) What springs do I need, and how do I tell what I have? tks. harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Summer Spa Sweepstakes Enter for your chance to WIN a Summer Spa Vacation! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UbfIOIjDpzwyIvLvSrSoZoJf IlZJcZo7fDciujA8X39e3H/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jun 8 21:05:38 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 20:05:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] HS2's /needles/springs In-Reply-To: <20080608.214126.4944.1.maya2blue@juno.com> References: <20080608.214126.4944.1.maya2blue@juno.com> Message-ID: <001801c8c9dd$b1fd1dd0$0302a8c0@newcomputer> Harve, Since the HS2's were never placed on a Spitfire1500 at the factory, it is hard to say how the AN needles will work. I tried a pair on a 1500 a few years ago and found that there was a flat spot about 4000 rpm and the car accelerated up to that point just fine but when it reached that magic point, it was if someone shut off the ignition switch. If I lifted a bit, it would pick back up. I tried a few other needles but never did get it to perform the way I thought it should. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of maya2blue at juno.com Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 7:41 PM To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com; spitfires at autox.team.net; spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] HS2's /needles/springs I have a US 1500 1978 Triumph Spitfire with HS2's (tagged AUC9831 & AUC9831R - handmarked on the top AUD9253 & AUD9256) I use K&N filters and a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. I am using AN needles. I have no idea what springs are in place. My questions: 1) Is the AN needle okay for street use? 2) What springs do I need, and how do I tell what I have? tks. harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Summer Spa Sweepstakes Enter for your chance to WIN a Summer Spa Vacation! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UbfIOIjDpzwyIvLvSrSoZoJf IlZJcZo7fDciujA8X39e3H/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 9 06:23:47 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 08:23:47 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] starter or battery Message-ID: In a message dated 6/8/2008 2:28:57 PM Central Daylight Time, mhooper at digiscreen.ca writes: > It appears that the battery is at fault. If I put a set of jumpers on > from the city car then the TR6 fires right up. > > So, the battery would seem to have lost it's charge and is not charging. > Strangely it is not hot which often happens when a cell shorts out and > the charger is left on. > > Mark, batteries fail in several different modes. Shorted cell is one failure mode but loss of plate area which appears as an open is another. In this case the current capacity reduces. Actually this is very typical in batteries during their expected life cycle. But since most batteries are oversized no one notices until it gets really severe. For a good, quick read on batteries try this: http://www.power-sonic.com/index.php?id=42 Click on Technical Manual Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 9 06:30:37 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 08:30:37 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A assembly sequence. Message-ID: In a message dated 6/8/2008 5:07:17 PM Central Daylight Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: > I had the front of the > car on jack stands and so. . .when the jam nut slipped from my aging and > not > so nimble fingers, it rolled inside the chassis, where, by the way, it will > > live for the rest of its days. Let it be known that anyone riding with me > who > asks if I hear a rattle, will be responded to in a rude manner. If that is the only rattle you have after you restoration you are deserving of deity status. ;-) Dave Massey From wsteinman at pogolaw.com Mon Jun 9 11:04:47 2008 From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 13:04:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR250 Dealer Poster In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B21E3690@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET> Howdy all: I think I've asked in the past, but just out of curiosity, if anyone has an original of the 1968 TR250 showroom poster (which can be seen at Fastpat's page here: http://www.triumph-brochures.be/pics/tumb/folderro1.jpg), I would love to hear from you. I'm dying for a copy for my garage, and would be willing to pay a reasonable amount to have a copy made from an original. Thanks! B. Bill S. 2005 Lotus Elise 1968 Triumph TR-250 1968 MGC Tourer 1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III 1965 Sunbeam Tiger 1959 Austin Healey 3000 Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows... NOTICE: This communication and its attachments have been sent to you from Powell Goldstein LLP and may contain privileged or other confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit, disseminate, or otherwise use the information. If you are not the intended recipient appearing in the address lines of this communication, you should not rely upon it. Also, please indicate to the sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy you received. IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties imposed under the Internal Revenue Code. Thank you. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 9 12:38:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 11:38:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000401c8ca60$02e36fb0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > What is the correct cable for the angle drive? If your original one won't reach (without straining or making sharp corners), try the 4A 66" cable (504948). Not sure, but I think the speedo end may be different for the later TRs (definitely is for the Stag). But the angle drive takes the same end as the original TR2-4A gearbox. Randall From maya2blue at juno.com Mon Jun 9 12:47:58 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 13:47:58 -0500 Subject: [TR] SU's/needles/jets ?? Message-ID: <20080609.134758.5812.2.maya2blue@juno.com> I recently posted the following: "I have a US 1500 1978 Triumph Spitfire with HS2's (tagged AUC9831 & AUC9831R - handmarked on the top AUD9253 & AUD9256) I use K&N filters and a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. I am using AN needles. I have no idea what springs are in place. My questions: 1) Is the AN needle okay for street use? 2) What springs do I need, and how do I tell what I have? tks. harve" A couple of notes that I received indicated that "perhaps" the numbers that were inscribed on the top of each carb (not the tag num) might stand for the jet. Is that correct? If so, where can I find info about what I Have. If not correct, what are they? tks all harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Make your vacation more memorable with a luxurious vacation rental. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nLyTVXGRPOZHtKf30hNeJ54GSL5Vik51MCkGG23toXzYUlj/ From soknacki at soknacki.com Mon Jun 9 13:31:39 2008 From: soknacki at soknacki.com (David Soknacki) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 15:31:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] starter or battery Message-ID: Since starter motor chatter is happening to me when I turn the key of my TR6, I've been following the discussion with interest. I think my problem is my battery. But in the five years I've owned my TR6, three batteries have failed. Is this normal? Every winter the battery is disconnected from the car, and stored at room temperature (70 deg F / 22 deg C). There's no problem starting in the spring. Between battery two and three I had the alternator checked out. The alternator is charging fine now. Admittedly, the first battery came with the car, so I don't know its previous history. The second battery was from Canadian Tire, an automotive private label retailer. I got exactly what I paid for: two months out of warranty it boiled over and ruined the paint in my engine bay. The third battery is an Interstate, after recommendation from an advisor on their website and local mechanic. This battery is now about a year old and is the one that needs replacing. Yes, it's under warranty. So is there something I ought to be doing differently, is this rate of battery replacement just bad luck, or is it typical? Many thanks David Soknacki 74 TR6 CF22072U From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 9 14:30:43 2008 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 13:30:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Free TR3 parts in West Texas Message-ID: <60944.14663.qm@web53408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> If you're close to Odessa, TX and would like any of the following parts, please contact tr3isme at grandecom.net * 2 non-OD trannys, unknown condition. TR3, so no 1st synchro * One straight (I think) and solid frame. Considerable surface rust, but structually sound * One engine block. Wet sleeves/piston are frozen * One head. Minor (repairable) cracks were detected via magnaflux * Misc engine parts, email for availability Hope the parts can live on. They are very close to just being hauled off to the junkyard. Please email! Thanks, Richard TS75434 From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 9 14:34:53 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 16:34:53 EDT Subject: [TR] starter or battery Message-ID: In a message dated 6/9/2008 2:32:16 PM Central Daylight Time, soknacki at soknacki.com writes: > But in the five years I've owned my TR6, three batteries have failed. Is > this normal? > > Every winter the battery is disconnected from the car, and stored at room > temperature (70 deg F / 22 deg C). There's no problem starting in the > spring. Between battery two and three I had the alternator checked out. The > alternator is charging fine now. > > Admittedly, the first battery came with the car, so I don't know its > previous history. The second battery was from Canadian Tire, an automotive > private label retailer. I got exactly what I paid for: two months out of > warranty it boiled over and ruined the paint in my engine bay. The third > battery is an Interstate, after recommendation from an advisor on their > website and local mechanic. This battery is now about a year old and is the > one that needs replacing. Yes, it's under warranty. > > So is there something I ought to be doing differently, is this rate of > battery replacement just bad luck, or is it typical? > > The fact that your second battery boiled over suggests that your alternator was overcharging. You said you had that fixed but I wonder. Your charging system may need a closer look. Your alternator may check out but is your wiring OK? A friend of mine went through half a dozen alternators before he found a bad connection that was causing all the problems. Go back to Canadian Tire and buy a $10 DVM and get some voltage readings. If your voltage is over 15V or if it is under 13V you still have a problem. Dave Massey From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Jun 9 14:49:34 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 16:49:34 EDT Subject: [TR] TR250 Dealer Poster Message-ID: No none of those, But I do have an original "Triumphs Here Now" "1969" Poster as seen on the front cover of The Vintage Triumph Spring 2006 issue number 97. Now Mike Cook must have that Showroom Photo, if you really want to make a poster? Let me know I could probably make it happen. Cheers, Darrell OK my TR250 is Royal Blue and my GT6+ is Signal Red! **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 9 15:22:25 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 14:22:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] starter or battery In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003601c8ca76$e9b58c00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > The second battery was from Canadian Tire, > an automotive > private label retailer. I got exactly what I paid for: two > months out of > warranty Normally, David, I'd say 3 batteries in 5 years is way short. But the above statement puzzles me, since I buy batteries with warranty periods of 5 and 6 years. Seems to me you must be buying much shorter-lived batteries. As suggested, wouldn't hurt to check charging system voltage. But a "boiling" battery may also indicate a shorted cell, which is a common failure mode. Also wouldn't hurt to have the starting current checked out. A worn starter may draw much more current than usual, which can shorten battery life. Randall From maya2blue at juno.com Mon Jun 9 15:53:16 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 16:53:16 -0500 Subject: [TR] '77 Spitfier wiper blades?? Message-ID: <20080609.165317.5024.0.maya2blue@juno.com> Greetings... Anyone have an idea what the correct (ie -usable!) wiper blades are for the '77 Spitfier? What I have now is a Bosch product 12" long. Many tks any suggestions. Harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Find solutions for your business. Click here and get it done now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m7tDNzKuGAYanaxsttyWpXM1ePBLA0YOFog9NnxIVkNwOJD/ From areich at telus.net Mon Jun 9 16:01:19 2008 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 15:01:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket Message-ID: <484DA82F.9070906@telus.net> I have just replaced a blown head gasket and now have a smoking TR3 ! There was lots of water in the oil, in fact it was totally emulsified! The oil was a creamy mixture when it came out. I drained the oil and replaced the spin-on filter. After filling it with fresh oil, I started it up and there was lots of smoke .. it was not blue or too smelly. After 1/2 hour of running, it was till smoking the same amount. The car is running as well as ever, with all cylinders contributing equal amounts when I do a "relative contribution check" by pulling off a single spark plug lead I checked the dipstick and I did notice tiny bubbles (maybe three or four on the dip-stick) ... must be residue of water that was stuck in the pan and other hidden storage areas. My questions to the group are: - Do you think just changing the oil will fix things? - Is the tiny bit of water in the slipping by the oil rings? - Can I just run it and it will eventually burn/steam off? Allan Reich - Vancouver 1960 TR3A - TS56713L (+O) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jun 9 16:01:03 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 18:01:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] starter or battery In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200806091801.03765.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 09 June 2008 03:31 pm, David Soknacki wrote: > Since starter motor chatter is happening to me when I turn the key of my > TR6, I've been following the discussion with interest. I think my problem > is my battery. > > But in the five years I've owned my TR6, three batteries have failed. Is > this normal? > > Every winter the battery is disconnected from the car, and stored at room > temperature (70 deg F / 22 deg C). There's no problem starting in the > spring. Between battery two and three I had the alternator checked out. The > alternator is charging fine now. > > Admittedly, the first battery came with the car, so I don't know its > previous history. The second battery was from Canadian Tire, an automotive > private label retailer. I got exactly what I paid for: two months out of > warranty it boiled over and ruined the paint in my engine bay. The third > battery is an Interstate, after recommendation from an advisor on their > website and local mechanic. This battery is now about a year old and is the > one that needs replacing. Yes, it's under warranty. > > So is there something I ought to be doing differently, is this rate of > battery replacement just bad luck, or is it typical? > > Many thanks > > David Soknacki > 74 TR6 CF22072U > Dave, For all my seasonal batteries (6) I use a "Battery Tender" to keep them charged when they are in storage down in the cellar during the winter. I also use a Tender to hook up my Triumph Tbird during the winter eventhough it is stored in the very cold garage. The battery on the Tbird is in its 6th season and shows no signs of letting down. The reason I dont take the battery out of the MC is because it is a PITA. SO I just leave it on the tender all winter. In the spring all my batteries are ready to go in the Car (2), Older Triumph MC, camper, and lawn mower tractor. All batteries are of the maintenance free variety so I never have to worry about filling them etc. Tenders are available everywhere. My investment in the 2 tenders seems to be paying off for me so far. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Jun 9 16:07:08 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 18:07:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket In-Reply-To: <484DA82F.9070906@telus.net> References: <484DA82F.9070906@telus.net> Message-ID: <200806091807.09079.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 09 June 2008 06:01 pm, Allan Reich wrote: > I have just replaced a blown head gasket and now have a smoking TR3 ! > There was lots of water in the oil, in fact it was totally emulsified! > The oil was a creamy mixture when it came out. I drained the oil and > replaced the spin-on filter. > After filling it with fresh oil, I started it up and there was lots of > smoke .. it was not blue or too smelly. After 1/2 hour of running, it > was till smoking the same amount. The car is running as well as ever, > with all cylinders contributing equal amounts when I do a "relative > contribution check" by pulling off a single spark plug lead > I checked the dipstick and I did notice tiny bubbles (maybe three or > four on the dip-stick) ... must be residue of water that was stuck in > the pan and other hidden storage areas. > My questions to the group are: > - Do you think just changing the oil will fix things? > - Is the tiny bit of water in the slipping by the oil rings? > - Can I just run it and it will eventually burn/steam off? > > Allan Reich - Vancouver > 1960 TR3A - TS56713L (+O) Allan, If the smoke is white that indicates that you have coolant in the combustion chamber. If it is still there after 1/2 hour could mean you either have another bad gasket, warped head or a crack in the head relative to the water jacket. Maybe it is time to take the head to a machine shop to have it checked out. Bob From skip47 at clearwire.net Mon Jun 9 16:47:52 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 15:47:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket References: <484DA82F.9070906@telus.net> Message-ID: <004301c8ca82$db05d190$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Hi Allan- I'll jump in here and provide some basics, no doubt there are lots of others who have better or more knowledge, so pay attention to everybody.... 1. Any water in the oil is a bad thing. If you haven't found the original culprit, you must, because it won't go away by itself, unless water was allowed to get into the oil when you disassembled the engine. 2. Since it's connected with a head gasket change, the gasket must be suspect. Is it possible the gasket was installed incorrectly, in some way as to allow water and oil passages to cross (i.e. upside down, for a different engine, with larger or smaller bores, etc.? 3. Is the head warped or block/liners no longer flat? Did any of the liners move when you removed the head to replace the gasket? - there's a gasket at the base of each liner which separates oil from water; if the liners aren't sealing properly, you'll get oil/water mixing. 4. Did you torque the head properly? (I had a click-type torque wrench that clicked at an indicated 80 lbs but was only turning 70, leaving everything looser than it should be...) 5. Smoke is caused by contaminants. Either water or oil will do it. Is water coming out of the exhaust pipe? Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Reich" To: Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 3:01 PM Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket > I have just replaced a blown head gasket and now have a smoking TR3 ! > There was lots of water in the oil, in fact it was totally emulsified! > The oil was a creamy mixture when it came out. I drained the oil and > replaced the spin-on filter. > After filling it with fresh oil, I started it up and there was lots of > smoke .. it was not blue or too smelly. After 1/2 hour of running, it > was till smoking the same amount. The car is running as well as ever, > with all cylinders contributing equal amounts when I do a "relative > contribution check" by pulling off a single spark plug lead > I checked the dipstick and I did notice tiny bubbles (maybe three or > four on the dip-stick) ... must be residue of water that was stuck in > the pan and other hidden storage areas. > My questions to the group are: > - Do you think just changing the oil will fix things? > - Is the tiny bit of water in the slipping by the oil rings? > - Can I just run it and it will eventually burn/steam off? > > Allan Reich - Vancouver > 1960 TR3A - TS56713L (+O) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 9 16:57:07 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 15:57:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket In-Reply-To: <484DA82F.9070906@telus.net> References: <484DA82F.9070906@telus.net> Message-ID: <005301c8ca84$24660a20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I have just replaced a blown head gasket and now have a smoking TR3 ! Where was it blown ? > After filling it with fresh oil, I started it up and there > was lots of > smoke .. it was not blue or too smelly. >From exhaust or crankcase breather ? > After 1/2 hour of running, it was till smoking the same amount. Idling or being driven ? > I checked the dipstick and I did notice tiny bubbles (maybe three or > four on the dip-stick) ... must be residue of water that was stuck in > the pan and other hidden storage areas. IMO if you can still see water after 1/2 hour, you've still got a water leak. What happened to the level in the radiator after cooling ? > - Do you think just changing the oil will fix things? Seems very unlikely to me. > - Is the tiny bit of water in the slipping by the oil rings? Not sure of the question; should be no water either above or below the rings. > - Can I just run it and it will eventually burn/steam off? Again it seems unlikely; but I guess you don't have much to lose by trying. IMO it would be unusual for a head gasket to blow between the water jacket and the openings to the crankcase; more likely you have a cracked head or a leaking "Figure 8" gasket. If it is the head gasket, then most likely something else is mechanically wrong, like the liners protrude too far or the head/block are not flat or possibly a damaged (stretched) head stud. Randall From skip47 at clearwire.net Mon Jun 9 16:47:52 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 15:47:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket References: <484DA82F.9070906@telus.net> Message-ID: <005f01c8ca86$20247df0$6400a8c0@ZEUS> Hi Allan- I'll jump in here and provide some basics, no doubt there are lots of others who have better or more knowledge, so pay attention to everybody.... 1. Any water in the oil is a bad thing. If you haven't found the original culprit, you must, because it won't go away by itself, unless water was allowed to get into the oil when you disassembled the engine. 2. Since it's connected with a head gasket change, the gasket must be suspect. Is it possible the gasket was installed incorrectly, in some way as to allow water and oil passages to cross (i.e. upside down, for a different engine, with larger or smaller bores, etc.? 3. Is the head warped or block/liners no longer flat? Did any of the liners move when you removed the head to replace the gasket? - there's a gasket at the base of each liner which separates oil from water; if the liners aren't sealing properly, you'll get oil/water mixing. 4. Did you torque the head properly? (I had a click-type torque wrench that clicked at an indicated 80 lbs but was only turning 70, leaving everything looser than it should be...) 5. Smoke is caused by contaminants. Either water or oil will do it. Is water coming out of the exhaust pipe? Best, Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Allan Reich" To: Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 3:01 PM Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket > I have just replaced a blown head gasket and now have a smoking TR3 ! > There was lots of water in the oil, in fact it was totally emulsified! > The oil was a creamy mixture when it came out. I drained the oil and > replaced the spin-on filter. > After filling it with fresh oil, I started it up and there was lots of > smoke .. it was not blue or too smelly. After 1/2 hour of running, it > was till smoking the same amount. The car is running as well as ever, > with all cylinders contributing equal amounts when I do a "relative > contribution check" by pulling off a single spark plug lead > I checked the dipstick and I did notice tiny bubbles (maybe three or > four on the dip-stick) ... must be residue of water that was stuck in > the pan and other hidden storage areas. > My questions to the group are: > - Do you think just changing the oil will fix things? > - Is the tiny bit of water in the slipping by the oil rings? > - Can I just run it and it will eventually burn/steam off? > > Allan Reich - Vancouver > 1960 TR3A - TS56713L (+O) From areich at telus.net Mon Jun 9 17:17:16 2008 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 16:17:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket In-Reply-To: <005301c8ca84$24660a20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <484DA82F.9070906@telus.net> <005301c8ca84$24660a20$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <484DB9FC.8070004@telus.net> Allan Replies: Randall thanks for your help .. see below for answers. I am going out now to start it up again, heat it up and do the 2nd torquing down of the head .. maybe that will fix all (just dreaming) Randall wrote: I have just replaced a blown head gasket and now have a smoking TR3 ! Where was it blown ? Between 3 and 4 After filling it with fresh oil, I started it up and there was lots of smoke .. it was not blue or too smelly. >From exhaust or crankcase breather ? From Exhaust After 1/2 hour of running, it was till smoking the same amount. Idling or being driven ? Idling, then lots more when you depress accelerator I checked the dipstick and I did notice tiny bubbles (maybe three or four on the dip-stick) ... must be residue of water that was stuck in the pan and other hidden storage areas. IMO if you can still see water after 1/2 hour, you've still got a water leak. What happened to the level in the radiator after cooling ? Radiator seems ok .. but I know there was residue in oil pan - Do you think just changing the oil will fix things? Seems very unlikely to me. - Is the tiny bit of water in the slipping by the oil rings? Not sure of the question; should be no water either above or below the rings. I thought there was always a minute amount of oil taken up the cylinder walls, I was wondering if the water would slip by the rings easier than the oil - Can I just run it and it will eventually burn/steam off? Again it seems unlikely; but I guess you don't have much to lose by trying. IMO it would be unusual for a head gasket to blow between the water jacket and the openings to the crankcase; more likely you have a cracked head or a leaking "Figure 8" gasket. If it is the head gasket, then most likely something else is mechanically wrong, like the liners protrude too far or the head/block are not flat or possibly a damaged (stretched) head stud. Randall -- [cid:part1.04040203.01040603 at telus.net] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of allan_sig small.jpg] From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jun 9 17:59:41 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 19:59:41 EDT Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing Message-ID: In a message dated 6/9/2008 1:38:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: If your original one won't reach (without straining or making sharp corners), try the 4A 66" cable (504948). Turns out that's what I had. Fit perfectly! Now, does the tach go on the right or the left? I put mine on the right as it seemed reasonable to me since it is more in the line of sight for driving. (plus it lines up better with the hole in the bulkhead). An "original" TR I looked at had the tach on the left. My TR6 has the tach on the right. That's the way I got it. You know, it is amazing the stuff that you thought was second nature, except when you go to put it back together! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 9 18:14:51 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 17:14:51 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007901c8ca8f$00542df0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Now, does the tach go on the right or the left? For the TR3A, the factory put them on the left, for left-hand drive cars. So the navigator can see the speed, trip and odometer better. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jun 9 18:31:06 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 20:31:06 EDT Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing Message-ID: In a message dated 6/9/2008 7:15:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: For the TR3A, the factory put them on the left, for left-hand drive cars. So the navigator can see the speed, trip and odometer better. But my wife only wants to feel the wind in her hair. Doesn't give a rat's petootie about the other stuff. I still have time to think about changing it back. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From FGFO1 at aol.com Mon Jun 9 18:56:50 2008 From: FGFO1 at aol.com (FGFO1 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 20:56:50 EDT Subject: [TR] head gasket and figure of 8 gasket Message-ID: For the TR3 4 cylinder motor. Is the head gasket different for the 87mm liners, as opposed to the standard 83mm? Steel or copper for figure of 8 gasket? Frank Fisher Temecula California **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From areich at telus.net Mon Jun 9 19:05:42 2008 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 18:05:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket - further investigation Message-ID: <484DD366.20502@telus.net> Well, I went out, started it up, still lotsa white smoke, but I let it warm up. Then started final torque down of head and found the source of the water. Headbolts #9 and #10 (as per tightening sequence in manual) had water seeping up them, especially #9. Torqued them down more, put it back together but no luck .. water still coming up. I am getting depressed! Allan Reich - Vancouver 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 9 19:08:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 18:08:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] head gasket and figure of 8 gasket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <008701c8ca96$81dcb750$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > For the TR3 4 cylinder motor. > Is the head gasket different for the 87mm liners, as opposed > to the standard > 83mm? Yes, but the 83mm gasket is virtually impossible to find these days. > Steel or copper for figure of 8 gasket? Mine have always been copper and worked well. The steel ones might work, but I've never tried them. Randall From Kinderlehrer at comcast.net Mon Jun 9 18:56:58 2008 From: Kinderlehrer at comcast.net (Kinderlehrer) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 17:56:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphest 2008 Message-ID: <004e01c8ca97$0db77b20$8701a8c0@Dell> Triumphest 2008 is coming up, October 2-5. It will be back in South Lake Tahoe, a great venue, a great ride getting there, and great events. Check out the flier at http://www.triumphtravelers.org/Events/Triumphest08/TRfest08Home.php This will be a special Triumphest for Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club as we will be marking our 50th year as a continuously operating club. I hope you can all come and help us celebrate. The Registration Form is available on-line, just click on the link at the top of the page. Bob From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jun 9 19:14:14 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 21:14:14 EDT Subject: [TR] head gasket and figure of 8 gasket Message-ID: I found the steel to be slightly thinner than the copper and could not get comfortable with the "proudness" over the block. I used the copper. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From trglory at comcast.net Mon Jun 9 20:04:31 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 22:04:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001801c8ca9e$5326bbb0$f9743310$@net> Dave; I put mine on the left because TRA said so, but the speedo would not fit worth a darn on the right....dash bracket fouled the ODO reset stem. I tried to route the stem a couple of different ways but it wasn't gonna happen, so I ended up putting it back on the other side and it is now very happy. Also, I am more comfortable looking for the RPMs on the right because that's where it is on my TR6, TR7 and TR8. My navigator will just have to put up with it! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 8:31 PM To: tr3driver at ca.rr.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In a message dated 6/9/2008 7:15:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: For the TR3A, the factory put them on the left, for left-hand drive cars. So the navigator can see the speed, trip and odometer better. But my wife only wants to feel the wind in her hair. Doesn't give a rat's petootie about the other stuff. I still have time to think about changing it back. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.2.0/1493 - Release Date: 6/9/2008 5:25 PM From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jun 9 21:51:42 2008 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 21:51:42 -0600 Subject: [TR] [Spits] SU's/needles/jets ?? In-Reply-To: <20080609.134758.5812.2.maya2blue@juno.com> References: <20080609.134758.5812.2.maya2blue@juno.com> Message-ID: <484DFA4E.5000300@bradakis.com> What are the issues you are trying to fix? Knowing what the current problems are and what you are hoping to achieve will assist in getting needle suggestions that may work. mjb. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Mon Jun 9 22:21:22 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 00:21:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] Engine Swaps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That is a very interesting mod... I would love to see it when complete. Anyone know where or even when? Carl Tampa ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 4:21 PM Subject: [TR] Engine Swaps > This was just posted on the MG list...purist beware.... > > http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm > > Robert B. Houston > Texan in New Mexico > > 63 TR4 > > As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg > carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly > formed, > perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced > hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be > inspected and > adjusted as > described in chapter seven of the shop manual. > Dan McKay > > > > > > > ____________________________________ > From: RampantNM > To: BearTranserv > Sent: 6/5/2008 2:12:36 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time > Subj: Fwd: [Mgs] Engine Swaps > > > > > > > > > **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with > Tyler Florence" on AOL Food. > (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From auprichard at comcast.net Tue Jun 10 04:49:47 2008 From: auprichard at comcast.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 06:49:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] head gasket and figure of 8 gasket In-Reply-To: <008701c8ca96$81dcb750$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <008701c8ca96$81dcb750$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <000f01c8cae7$b3f5ddb0$2c693c18@DCH6RFC1> If anyone is interested, I recently had my TR3 engine rebuilt with 89mm pistons. I had a honing plate made whereby the liners could be bored under torque. Don't know if I'll ever use it again (this is my second restoration, after all), but if anyone wants to borrow it, let me know. It's aluminum, so reasonably light. Andrew Uprichard Sherborn, Mass -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+auprichard=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 9:09 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] head gasket and figure of 8 gasket > For the TR3 4 cylinder motor. > Is the head gasket different for the 87mm liners, as opposed > to the standard > 83mm? Yes, but the 83mm gasket is virtually impossible to find these days. > Steel or copper for figure of 8 gasket? Mine have always been copper and worked well. The steel ones might work, but I've never tried them. Randall This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as auprichard at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive From Chip19474 at aol.com Tue Jun 10 06:17:45 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 08:17:45 EDT Subject: [TR] Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket Message-ID: Allan, This doesn't sound good to me. Back in the early 70's when I replaced a head gasket on my old MGB for the first time it ran great for 3 days then started smoking again like a Stanley Steamer. Off went the head and upon closer inspection I found a small crack between two cylinders.....very small, hard to see but under a good light it was there. What did I learn from this!!??......check the head very carefully - better yet have it magnafluxed by a shop before finishing the job. There's a reason why head gaskets fail and quite often it's not solely the gasket's fault (unless you owned a Ford Taurus but that's another story that will never need to be repeated thanks to ownership of a quality automobile from an Asian manufacturer). Check the head!!! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/9/2008 3:01:43 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, areich at telus.net writes: After 1/2 hour of running, it was till smoking the same amount. The car **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Jun 10 08:02:30 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 10:02:30 EDT Subject: [TR] TRA National Meeting Message-ID: Hi Folks, Hap penning Now. June 11 - 14 @ the Sawmill **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Jun 10 08:11:12 2008 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 10:11:12 EDT Subject: [TR] TRA National Meeting Message-ID: In a message dated 6/10/2008 10:03:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: Hi Folks, Hap penning Now. June 11 - 14 @ the Sawmill Opps! That would be Sawmill Creek Resort, Huron, OHIO on the shores of Lake Erie. Who is attending? Beverly and I will be there Wednesday driving the white 62 TR4. Cheers, Darrell **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Jun 10 09:08:09 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 08:08:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thought my wife wouldn't be interested in that either... until we got into Prescott on the BEAT drive and she informed me that I was doing 96 when I blew by the BMW Z8*. At least she waited to mention it, making it more of an observation than a criticism. The early TRs had the speedo on the left (LHD) then moved it to the inside slot for the reasons mentioned. Geo *Closed course, professional driver, do not attempt ;) ----- Original Message ----- From: > But my wife only wants to feel the wind in her hair. Doesn't give a > rat's > petootie about the other stuff. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 10 11:16:13 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:16:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] What is   In-Reply-To: <427411.36218.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <427411.36218.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01c8cb1d$b10fc530$210110ac@bobspc> No LBC content but lately I'm seeing more and more List emails come through with   scattered through them. I believe it represents a non-breaking space but why are they suddenly showing up? Is it mostly from people using Web based HTML type mail? Just curious....thanks.... Back to your regular Triumph related programming. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of W. W. Moine Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 11:26 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Brake Servo rebuilding Just as an FYI, I had my brake servo rebuilt by Brake Materials & Parts Incorporated (who bought out Partco) and it was returned in my same box but with half of the shipping materials inside resulting in the breakage of the non return valve.  Brake Materials does not have any non return valves and is only offering to pay for the shipping back and removing the broken parts that are now inside the servo.   Does anyone have NOS non return valve?   At this point I would not recommend Brake Materials & Parts Inc to anyone.     WWM 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.2.0/1493 - Release Date: 6/9/2008 5:25 PM From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jun 10 11:29:04 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 17:29:04 +0000 Subject: [TR] What is   Message-ID: <061020081729.20346.484EB9E00005401000004F7A22155934149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Sometimes I see messages littered with question marks. Please, folks, set your mailers to plain text. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > No LBC content but lately I'm seeing more and more List emails come through > with   scattered through them. I believe it represents a non-breaking > space but why are they suddenly showing up? Is it mostly from people using > Web based HTML type mail? > > Just curious....thanks.... Back to your regular Triumph related programming. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of W. W. Moine > Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 11:26 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Brake Servo rebuilding > > Just as an FYI, I had my brake servo rebuilt by Brake Materials & Parts > Incorporated (who bought out Partco) and it was returned in my same box > but with half of the shipping materials inside resulting in the breakage of > the non return valve.  Brake Materials does not have any non return > valves and is only offering to pay for the shipping back and removing the > broken parts that are now inside the servo. >   > Does anyone have NOS non return valve? >   > At this point I would not recommend Brake Materials & Parts Inc to > anyone. >   >   > WWM > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this > incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.2.0/1493 - Release Date: 6/9/2008 5:25 > PM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as pethier at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Tue Jun 10 11:35:24 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:35:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] What is   In-Reply-To: <061020081729.20346.484EB9E00005401000004F7A22155934149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <061020081729.20346.484EB9E00005401000004F7A22155934149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: > Sometimes I see messages littered with question marks. That's 'cuz they're asking questions. From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jun 10 11:29:48 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:29:48 -0400 Subject: [TR] What is   In-Reply-To: <000c01c8cb1d$b10fc530$210110ac@bobspc> References: <427411.36218.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <484E81CC.29624.193809C9@localhost> On 10 Jun 2008 at 13:16, Bob Danielson wrote: > I believe it represents a non-breaking space but why are > they suddenly showing up? Is it mostly from people using > Web based HTML type mail? You are correct. It shows up along with & and other common HTML characters when someone's mail sending program knows only how to send HTML. Apparently plain text isn't sufficient anymore, FORMATTED text is the way of the future! If you can't impress 'em with content, at least wow 'em with the visuals, I guess. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From kthompson at whoi.edu Tue Jun 10 11:42:12 2008 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:42:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat installation Message-ID: <484EBCF4.8080006@whoi.edu> greetings folks, can someone let me know the degree of difficulty in installing a rear seat and rear seat belts in a '59 TR3A ?? Level 1 would be something like replacing a sparkplug to a seasoned mechanic. Level 10 would be more like turning a blank piece of steel bar stock into a crankshaft.........using your teeth for the tooling. Moss has a seat kit available with the brackets, but no illustration as to what it all looks like. http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=63997 Thanks, Kevin T '59 TR3A '76 TR6 From jmerone at rocketmail.com Tue Jun 10 12:14:27 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:14:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] What is  ? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <439724.7650.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> After switching my Yahoo mail account to their new system I noticed that my recent posts to the lists were loaded with the offending characters. Switching back to "Yahoo Classical" stopped the problem. Joe Merone CF18928 > > I believe it represents a non-breaking space but why > are > > they suddenly showing up? Is it mostly from people > using > > Web based HTML type mail? > > You are correct. It shows up along with & and > other common HTML > characters when someone's mail sending program knows > only how to send > HTML. Apparently plain text isn't sufficient anymore, > FORMATTED text > is the way of the future! If you can't impress 'em > with content, at > least wow 'em with the visuals, I guess. > > > -- > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+greetings folks, From zoboherald at aol.com Tue Jun 10 12:16:22 2008 From: zoboherald at aol.com (Andrew Mace) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 14:16:22 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat installation In-Reply-To: <484EBCF4.8080006@whoi.edu> References: <484EBCF4.8080006@whoi.edu> Message-ID: <8CA993D38715E1A-FA0-2D4@WEBMAIL-DB13.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Kevin Thompson greetings folks, can someone let me know the degree of difficulty in installing a rear seat and rear seat belts in a '59 TR3A ?? Level 1 would be something like replacing a sparkplug to a seasoned mechanic. Level 10 would be more like turning a blank piece of steel bar stock into a crankshaft.........using your teeth for the tooling.... On that scale, maybe 1.7. No machine shop nor McGuyver ingenuity needed, although I'll wager you will need a good drill. --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 10 12:26:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:26:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] What is   In-Reply-To: <061020081729.20346.484EB9E00005401000004F7A22155934149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> References: <061020081729.20346.484EB9E00005401000004F7A22155934149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <012f01c8cb27$86298450$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Sometimes I see messages littered with question marks. > > Please, folks, set your mailers to plain text. Well, there's plain text and then there's 7-bit ASCII. In at least some cases, the question marks are due to people trying to use the extended plain text character set. The list server strips off the extra bit (since some systems don't handle it well), and sometimes garbage results. Like this : 7C2?o Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jun 10 12:58:30 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 18:58:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] What is   Message-ID: <061020081858.5610.484ECED5000F1738000015EA22155934149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: John Herrera > > > Sometimes I see messages littered with question marks. > > That's 'cuz they're asking questions. Amazingly enough, I can tell the difference. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From kthompson at whoi.edu Tue Jun 10 13:33:02 2008 From: kthompson at whoi.edu (Kevin Thompson) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 15:33:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat installation In-Reply-To: <8CA993D38715E1A-FA0-2D4@WEBMAIL-DB13.sysops.aol.com> References: <484EBCF4.8080006@whoi.edu> <8CA993D38715E1A-FA0-2D4@WEBMAIL-DB13.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <484ED6EE.5010007@whoi.edu> Thanks Andy! KT Andrew Mace wrote: > -----Original Message----- > From: Kevin Thompson > > greetings folks, > > can someone let me know the degree of difficulty in installing a rear > seat and rear seat belts in a '59 TR3A ?? Level 1 would be something > like replacing a sparkplug to a seasoned mechanic. Level 10 would be > more like turning a blank piece of steel bar > stock into a crankshaft.........using your teeth for the tooling.... > > On that scale, maybe 1.7. No machine shop nor McGuyver ingenuity > needed, although I'll wager you will need a good drill. > > --Andy Mace From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Tue Jun 10 14:11:58 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:11:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat installation In-Reply-To: <484EBCF4.8080006@whoi.edu> References: <484EBCF4.8080006@whoi.edu> Message-ID: Pretty easy -- even simpler if there is already a seat in place which you are recovering with the kit. But... Since you ask about seat belts it sounds like you are planning on putting people back there. Have you taken a look at a TR3A with that seat? Consenting adults (with legs) are pretty much out of the question. Little children may fit but give a lot of thought to the safety of that location (or any location inside a TR). Other may disagree but I would be wary of using that area for passengers. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Thompson" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 10:42 AM Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat installation > greetings folks, > can someone let me know the degree of difficulty in installing a > rear seat and rear seat belts in a '59 TR3A ?? From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 10 15:17:58 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 17:17:58 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat installation References: <484EBCF4.8080006@whoi.edu> Message-ID: <03fa01c8cb3f$768cdb60$6401a8c0@STATION6> HI Kevin, Not a big deal depending on your year. If you are putting it in a post 60000 (flat deck) pretty easy, just drop it in. If pre 60000 you have to consider a few things. I am not sure where the break (vin #) occurs but the seat design is different. Actually for a total of 3 different designs. The pre 60000 has 2 different designs and 2 different brackets that get attached differently. One incorporates the rear deck panel and one does not. If you need diagrams of the 3 different designs I can get them to you. I got mine from Joe Laurito. Have to agree with George on the seat belts unless you are using them for the front seat passengers. I have installed a 3 pt seat belt system. My TR3 belts are the same as my 72 TR6 and mounted the same way. I got the belts via ebay. Mounting kits, (exact as the TR6) were purchased from Triumph Rescue in Bally, PA. Same mounting positions as a TR6. Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59 TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Thompson" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 1:42 PM Subject: [TR] TR3 rear seat installation > greetings folks, > can someone let me know the degree of difficulty in installing a > rear seat and rear seat belts in a '59 TR3A ?? > Level 1 would be something like replacing a sparkplug to a seasoned > mechanic. Level 10 would be more like turning a blank piece of steel bar > stock into a crankshaft.........using your teeth for the tooling. > Moss has a seat kit available with the brackets, but no illustration > as to what it all looks like. > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=63997 > Thanks, > Kevin T > '59 TR3A > '76 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as ambritts at bellsouth.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From maya2blue at juno.com Tue Jun 10 15:52:00 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 16:52:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 282 Message-ID: <20080610.165200.4544.6.maya2blue@juno.com> Greetings mjb.. I am not really trying to "fix" anything! I just want to know what combination of spring and needle should be used in my situation - a US 1500 1978 Triumph Spitfire with HS2's (tagged AUC9831 & AUC9831R - handmarked on the top AUD9253 & AUD9256) I use K&N filters and a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. I am using AN needles. I have no idea what springs are in place. I hope to get a rec from someone who has a similiar setup, or who may have expertise that I don't! tks Harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:28:47 -0600 triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: > Message: 10 > Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 21:51:42 -0600 > From: Mark J Bradakis > Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] SU's/needles/jets ?? > To: spitfires at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <484DFA4E.5000300 at bradakis.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > What are the issues you are trying to fix? Knowing what the current > > problems are > and what you are hoping to achieve will assist in getting needle > suggestions that > may work. > > mjb. > ____________________________________________________________ Click here to choose from a huge selection of shipping supplies! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3n4ViVmp6SPW1Kt8sMjQVJWfr3uIu0hYUBovZfILW64qdPIV/ From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Jun 10 16:07:09 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 16:07:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] [ISOA Project Stag:] 0608 TTA Stag Work Session Message-ID: <484EFB0D.9000909@tscusa.org> Greetings All, Here is a brief status update for the STTAG from the ISOA crew! Despite downpours, 99% humidity and 90 degree temps, the last of the top coats of paint have been stripped. This pushes us closer to putting paint back on. Chuck Montague, Don Sheldon, Mike Blonder, Richard Scholl, Bill Jensen, Mark Costello and yours truly managed to accomplish a HUGE amount of work and conclude one of the last filthy jobs of the project. Doors, body, door jams, boot and bonnet await only final DA sanding. This can be accomplished in a relatively short period of time since 90% of the paint is off, leaving only a patina of old primer to protect from the ravages of flash rust. We are actually seeing progress on other parts of the body. The welding repair to the driver side front quarter was completed as the last amounts of argon were spewed from Mr. Lincoln. A trip to shove an addition 80 cubic feet of argon mix back into a steel cylinder is scheduled for this week before any additional welding commences. The patch to the front wing went extremely well and inspired me to put the initial filler coat on the repair. Sadly covering up a seamless stitching in of the section. No overlaps here dudes! Next on the agenda: - dents repaired in the doors and boot and bonnet - dent pulling on the back lower apron of the trunk (nasty as these can not be accessed for good old fashioned metal bumping) - weld repair of exhaust hanger on trunk - final weld repair on front apron by Joe Pawlak So although it does not look like this Stag will be driven to Detroit in August 2008, I am quite impressed with these guys progress and dedication. Joe says, maybe running and on its wheels by the end of summer ... not all pretty and trimmed out, but running. More later. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Jun 10 16:31:13 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 22:31:13 +0000 Subject: [TR] Sudden change in idle Message-ID: <061020082231.8118.484F00B1000976C200001FB622165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> TR3A runs throaty and smooth and driving speeds, with power to spare. But since yesterday when I come to a stop, the idle drops to about 500 rpm, keeps it about a minute, and then dies altogether. Timing of this does seem to coincide with a recent heat wave in the Northeast, where we've been having 90 degree weather. (At least I'm convinced all the snow is now gone....) Has electronic ignition. No smell of fuel. Did a recent valve adjustment...may have gotten them a bit tighter than I should since I measured them to .10 at warm instead of cold. Suspect fuel. Sounds like one of the carbs is off. Will look to see if the choke hung up on one of them. Any ideas where to start? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jun 10 16:43:32 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 15:43:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 282 In-Reply-To: <20080610.165200.4544.6.maya2blue@juno.com> References: <20080610.165200.4544.6.maya2blue@juno.com> Message-ID: <000301c8cb4b$696bfe50$0302a8c0@newcomputer> Harve, In a nutshell, there is not a recommended combination for that carb set and our engine. This is because Triumph never did put HS2's on a 1500. So the best you can hope for is to find someone who has done that and pick his brain. You will also have to compare how that person's engine was built against yours because differences in the configurations will mean a difference in which needle will perform the best. You will probably have to buy several needles and evaluate them all to arrive at what is best for your configuration. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of maya2blue at juno.com Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 2:52 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 282 Greetings mjb.. I am not really trying to "fix" anything! I just want to know what combination of spring and needle should be used in my situation - a US 1500 1978 Triumph Spitfire with HS2's (tagged AUC9831 & AUC9831R - handmarked on the top AUD9253 & AUD9256) I use K&N filters and a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. I am using AN needles. I have no idea what springs are in place. I hope to get a rec from someone who has a similiar setup, or who may have expertise that I don't! tks Harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:28:47 -0600 triumphs-request at autox.team.net writes: > Message: 10 > Date: Mon, 09 Jun 2008 21:51:42 -0600 > From: Mark J Bradakis > Subject: Re: [TR] [Spits] SU's/needles/jets ?? > To: spitfires at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Message-ID: <484DFA4E.5000300 at bradakis.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > What are the issues you are trying to fix? Knowing what the current > > problems are > and what you are hoping to achieve will assist in getting needle > suggestions that > may work. > > mjb. > ____________________________________________________________ Click here to choose from a huge selection of shipping supplies! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3n4ViVmp6SPW1Kt8sMjQVJWfr3 uIu0hYUBovZfILW64qdPIV/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jun 10 16:44:30 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 18:44:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sudden change in idle In-Reply-To: <061020082231.8118.484F00B1000976C200001FB622165258569C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <484ECB8E.6560.1A5829FB@localhost> On 10 Jun 2008 at 22:31, terryrs at comcast.net wrote: > since I measured them to .10 at warm instead of cold. .10??? Should that not be .010? Or did you mean that after all? A sudden drop in idle speed and failure to idle sounds like an air leak. Diaphram on the dizzy, perhaps? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jun 10 16:54:19 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 18:54:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] rear shock help Message-ID: <200806101854.19152.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, I just finished tightening the 2 bolts/nuts that hold the right rear shock. I would like to use a socket wrench but my sockets all are too big to fit that small area. Does anyone know where I might get a 9/16 inch thin wall socket for this application? I used a box wrench on the bolt but had to use an open end wrench at an angle on the nut. Really cant torque it down like I want too. My sockets are Craftman 1/2 and 3/8 " drive. Thanks for the help. Bob From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 10 17:56:11 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 17:56:11 -0600 Subject: [TR] rear shock help In-Reply-To: <200806101854.19152.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200806101854.19152.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <000001c8cb55$9001b9b0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Bob, I just mounted mine recently and saw the same thing. With the bolt head on the back side of the mounting plate and the nylock nut on the inside with a washer I was able to easily hold the nut with an open-end spanner, holding it at an angle and put a socket on the bolt head. Once the nut started to get tight it stayed in place while I did the final tightening with the socket. I have in the past taken a socket to the grinding wheel to take material off the wall so it would fit in a tight place such as this, I am sure it will void the warranty if you break it. BTW, does anyone know the correct torque for this? I just got it good and tight with a standard Snap-On ratchet. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Labuz Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 4:54 PM To: Triumph Email List Subject: [TR] rear shock help Hello, I just finished tightening the 2 bolts/nuts that hold the right rear shock. I would like to use a socket wrench but my sockets all are too big to fit that small area. Does anyone know where I might get a 9/16 inch thin wall socket for this application? I used a box wrench on the bolt but had to use an open end wrench at an angle on the nut. Really cant torque it down like I want too. My sockets are Craftman 1/2 and 3/8 " drive. Thanks for the help. Bob This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 10 18:08:08 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 20:08:08 EDT Subject: [TR] rear shock help Message-ID: In a message dated 6/10/2008 6:13:51 PM Central Daylight Time, yellowtr at adelphia.net writes: > I just finished tightening the 2 bolts/nuts that hold the right rear shock. > > I would like to use a socket wrench but my sockets all are too big to fit > that > small area. > > I don't know which car you have but the clearances on the TR3 shock are so tight, I switched to socket head bolts where I can use an allen wrench. Otherwise check Sears of the usual tool outlets. Dave From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 10 18:10:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 17:10:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] rear shock help In-Reply-To: <000001c8cb55$9001b9b0$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <200806101854.19152.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <000001c8cb55$9001b9b0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <021c01c8cb57$99437f70$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I have in the past taken a socket to the grinding wheel to > take material off > the wall so it would fit in a tight place such as this, I used to have a Craftsman set that was thin enough to get in there. Unfortunately I lost it, and they don't sell them any more. What I did to solve the problem was remove the original bolt, and install a socket head cap screw pointing the other way. > BTW, does anyone know the correct torque for this? I just > got it good and > tight with a standard Snap-On ratchet. My book shows 26-28 ft-lb; but mine always seemed to work loose with that little torque on it. With the SHCS I go to about twice that (they are much stronger than Grade 8 SAE hardware). Sorry I don't recall the size offhand, but you can get them by the box from MMC. 3/8" x 3/4" seems about right, and you can get a box of 25 in "Ultra corrosion-resistant coated alloy steel" for under $8. http://www.mcmaster.com/ Randall From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Tue Jun 10 18:10:55 2008 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 20:10:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] rear shock help Message-ID: > I just finished tightening the 2 bolts/nuts that hold the right > rear shock. > > I would like to use a socket wrench but my sockets all are too big > to fit that > small area. Get Allen head cap screws and a 3/8 drive allen socket (bit?) to fit and that problem is over. Allen Hess From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jun 10 18:39:09 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 20:39:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] rear shock help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200806102039.09439.yellowtr@adelphia.net> All, Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like a hex or socket cap screw is the solution. And as most of you have already guessed yes it is a TR3! Ordering the hw from McMaster is cheaper than getting a set of special sockets. Thanks for all your help. Bob From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jun 10 19:01:34 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 21:01:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Sudden change in idle Message-ID: Terry, A couple of questions: Is the idle normal and then drops, or does it go immediately to 500 rpm? What is your normal idle speed? Does it restart right away after dying? Have you tried setting your idle screws up a little to maintain a slightly higher idle speed? Have you got gas (in the car's tank) just before this happened? Does it do this when cold, or when hot, or both? If you suspect the valves, as I don't, you can readjust them cold. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From AMfoto1 at aol.com Tue Jun 10 19:05:07 2008 From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 21:05:07 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 284 Message-ID: Hi Bob, I never found a socket thin enough to fit in there. So finally I replaced all four bolts with high grade, socket headed bolts and my life has been much easier ever since. The old trick I used before this rather simple solution found it's way into my brain was to hold the bolt from turning by wedging a large flat blade screwdriver between one of the flats of the bolt head and the wall of the shock absorber. I was never very confident that things were getting properly tightened that way, or that I wouldn't someday crack the shock body (that never happened though). Works pretty well for removal, though, since the bolts were never properly tightened to begin with. I think even Triumph left them pretty loose, straight from the factory. Cheers! Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. _amfoto1 at aol.com_ (mailto:amfoto1 at aol.com) '62 TR4 CT17602L (a perpertual work in progress) Hello, I just finished tightening the 2 bolts/nuts that hold the right rear shock. I would like to use a socket wrench but my sockets all are too big to fit that small area. Does anyone know where I might get a 9/16 inch thin wall socket for this application? I used a box wrench on the bolt but had to use an open end wrench at an angle on the nut. Really cant torque it down like I want too. My sockets are Craftman 1/2 and 3/8 " drive. Thanks for the help. Bob **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From terryrs at comcast.net Tue Jun 10 19:05:22 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 01:05:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] Sudden change in idle Message-ID: <061120080105.1851.484F24D20005AD0E0000073B22155612649C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Normal idle speed is about 10, maybe 11. Drop is immediate now. Restart is immediate when I give it gas. I haven't reset the idle until I'm sure what the original cause is. I did buy gas from a different location before this started. It's only been hot (gadfrey, we in New Hampshire either complain about the cold or complian about the heat. Me, I only complain about the cold!) Thanks for responding! Terry -------------- Original message -------------- From: DLylis at aol.com Terry, A couple of questions: Is the idle normal and then drops, or does it go immediately to 500 rpm? What is your normal idle speed? Does it restart right away after dying? Have you tried setting your idle screws up a little to maintain a slightly higher idle speed? Have you got gas (in the car's tank) just before this happened? Does it do this when cold, or when hot, or both? If you suspect the valves, as I don't, you can readjust them cold. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. From AMfoto1 at aol.com Tue Jun 10 19:15:03 2008 From: AMfoto1 at aol.com (AMfoto1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 21:15:03 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 284 Message-ID: TR3A runs throaty and smooth and driving speeds, with power to spare. But since yesterday when I come to a stop, the idle drops to about 500 rpm, keeps it about a minute, and then dies altogether. It's probably that lousy, $4 a gallon fuel we're getting these days.... Whoops, I blinked, it's closer to $5 a gallon now here. Seriously, I'd look for air leaks first, then the fuel supply, then the carbs themselves. Alan Myers San Jose, Calif. _amfoto1 at aol.com_ (mailto:amfoto1 at aol.com) '62 TR4 CT17602L _http://www.triumphowners.com/640_ (http://www.triumphowners.com/640) **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From magician at usol.com Tue Jun 10 20:06:43 2008 From: magician at usol.com (Ron Easterly) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 22:06:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] Key switch Message-ID: <00fb01c8cb67$cc7a5b60$63ea1240@michtech2> Heh gang... Who sells a good key starter switch for the '59 TR3A ? Mine has bit the dirt... Ron From Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com Tue Jun 10 20:05:12 2008 From: Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com (Dean.Mericas at CH2M.com) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 20:05:12 -0600 Subject: [TR] Joe Curto - Kudos and TR4 ZS O-ring specs Message-ID: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF4105175999@COAST.amr.ch2m.com> I just wanted to publically thank Joe Curto for simply terrific customer service. Joe rebuilt the Z-S carbs on my TR4 about 9 years ago. The jet assemblies are starting to weep a bit of gas, and I called him to see if he could tell me the specs on the O-rings that I need to replace. He couldn't tell me the specs for the O-rings, and instead mailed me a new set, along with gaskets for the float bowls. This was all gratis for being a previous customer. I mailed him $5 for the parts, but also wanted to share the story with this group. We need to keep guys like Joe in business. NFI, yada yada yada BTW, the "dash number" and size specs on the two O-rings in the jet assembly of a Z-S 175CD are as follows: Large: -114 (13/16" OD, 5/8" ID, ~0.103" thick) Small: -011 (7/16" OD, 5/16" ID, ~0.070" thick) Now you know! Dean Mericas Austin, Texas 1965 TR4 1974 2000 GTV From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 10 20:21:32 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:21:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] Key switch In-Reply-To: <00fb01c8cb67$cc7a5b60$63ea1240@michtech2> Message-ID: <20080611022131.IMLR7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Who sells a good key starter switch for the '59 TR3A ? Are you looking for the starter pushbutton, or the key switch ? Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jun 10 20:22:00 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 02:22:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR rear shocks (dampers) Message-ID: <061120080222.17504.484F36C800056BE40000446022165258069D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: AMfoto1 at aol.com > Hi Bob, > > I never found a socket thin enough to fit in there. > > So finally I replaced all four bolts with high grade, socket headed bolts and > my life has been much easier ever since. > > The old trick I used before this rather simple solution found it's way into > my brain was to hold the bolt from turning by wedging a large flat blade > screwdriver between one of the flats of the bolt head and the wall of the shock > absorber. Exactly my story with the TR4. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 10 20:26:55 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:26:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080611022655.THXQ8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > and she informed > me that I was doing 96 when I blew by the BMW Z8*. Just tell her that these old gauges always read high and it just feels that fast because the car is so small and low to the ground. Nah, never worked for me either, but worth a try. Randall From rtriplett25 at yahoo.com Tue Jun 10 21:57:24 2008 From: rtriplett25 at yahoo.com (richard triplett) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 20:57:24 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] 2nd try: free TR3 stuff in Odessa, TX Message-ID: <243329.69928.qm@web53405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> If you are in West Texas, near Odessa: Free TR-3A parts, just come to West Texas (Odessa) and pick up a TR3 Chassis (not complete), engine block & head, two transmissions, other parts. Just call 432-366-7292 anytime for me to save them for you. OR - email tr3isme at grandecom.net I sent this over the weekend, but doesn't look like it went thru. Thanks, Richard TS75434L From dkspence at telus.net Tue Jun 10 22:28:06 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (dkspence at telus.net) Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 22:28:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] Subject: Re: OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On the 4 and 4A the tach was on the "out" side ( L on LHD- R on RHD) and the speedo was on the "centre" side. On 10-Jun-08, at 11:28 AM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Subject: Re: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing From jeffn at msystech.com Tue Jun 10 22:40:37 2008 From: jeffn at msystech.com (Jeff Nathanson) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 00:40:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Joe Curto - Kudos and TR4 ZS O-ring specs References: <2DE5E842B0FBD64786A914C54E2EAF4105175999@COAST.amr.ch2m.com> Message-ID: <000c01c8cb7d$4b811380$0201a8c0@mstdevel5> Just my 2 cents......Joe has help me also in rebuilding my ZS carbs for my TR6. He takes great pride in the correct intructions over the phone. His parts are superior than those sold by the 3 three. Jeff N. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 10:05 PM Subject: [TR] Joe Curto - Kudos and TR4 ZS O-ring specs > I just wanted to publically thank Joe Curto for simply terrific customer > service. > > Joe rebuilt the Z-S carbs on my TR4 about 9 years ago. The jet > assemblies are starting to weep a bit of gas, and I called him to see if > he could tell me the specs on the O-rings that I need to replace. He > couldn't tell me the specs for the O-rings, and instead mailed me a new > set, along with gaskets for the float bowls. This was all gratis for > being a previous customer. > > I mailed him $5 for the parts, but also wanted to share the story with > this group. We need to keep guys like Joe in business. NFI, yada yada > yada > > BTW, the "dash number" and size specs on the two O-rings in the jet > assembly of a Z-S 175CD are as follows: > > Large: -114 (13/16" OD, 5/8" ID, ~0.103" thick) > Small: -011 (7/16" OD, 5/16" ID, ~0.070" thick) > > Now you know! > > Dean Mericas > Austin, Texas > 1965 TR4 > 1974 2000 GTV From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jun 11 05:11:14 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 07:11:14 EDT Subject: [TR] Sudden change in idle Message-ID: Terry, Resetting the idle screw and setting back is such an easy fix I would try that first. This is the reason why. On Earth Day I went out and dumped my 290 HP Infinity and bought a Honda Civic Hybrid. At this stage, seeing how much I can max the mileage is still a game. I can tell you, without a doubt, that the source of the fuel has a fairly significant impact on the mileage that this car gets. Keep in mind that it has two gauges. One that tells me real time what the mileage is and one that tells me the cumulative mileage over distance. Not to start political bantering here, but I believe that corn belongs in a tortilla, not in my gas tank. (at least the science I read says that it is an inefficient fuel, and uses too much oil to make). Anyway, down here in FL is now to the point where you cannot buy non Ethanol fuel anymore. My 3A is being finished, but I definitely notice a change in idle quality with my TR6. The SUs are so simple that there are a couple of choices should your idle increase, but idle dropping? If there was fuel starvation I would think that you would see it in acceleration and running at speed, but you say you don't. When it doesn't do it cold, is the choke all the way in? I would balance the carbs and tweak the idle screws. It may be the fuel. My two Euros worth. BTW, great time to be a New Englander. I was born in the granite state and lived in the Bay State. In my shop I have a circa 1930s colorized picture of The Old Man of the Mountains. May he rest in peace. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From GHaynesTR4 at aol.com Wed Jun 11 09:41:18 2008 From: GHaynesTR4 at aol.com (GHaynesTR4 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 11:41:18 EDT Subject: [TR] Sudden Idle Change Message-ID: Terry, et al, Is there some chance that you are experiencing boiling of the fuel in your carbs? Runs great, then idles poorly and stalls fairly quickly. I have been having a similar problem with an MGA and we can see fuel bubbling up from the jets after removing domes and pistons to peek in. We are also experiencing the recent heatwave in the Northeast, ie, 90 degrees or more. We have been brainstorming the problem and solution and believe gasoline with 10 percent Ethynol (sp?) has a lower boiling point than fuel with no Ethynol content. I had a similar problem about ten years ago and could also see the fuel boiling in the (Weber) carb. It went away after the suspect fuel was run thru and replaced with "undiluted" gasoline. First thing we're gonna do is replace the existing fuel in the MGA and see if the problem goes away. I'll report back on this in a few days. Would someone jump in here and give us more details about these modern fuels? George Haynes ************** Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jun 11 11:05:53 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 17:05:53 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear passenger seat. In-Reply-To: <03fa01c8cb3f$768cdb60$6401a8c0@STATION6> References: <484EBCF4.8080006@whoi.edu> <03fa01c8cb3f$768cdb60$6401a8c0@STATION6> Message-ID: I have fond memories of one of my friends, his girl friend and myself driving my '61 TR3A from So. Ca. to Haight Ashbury in March 1967. I was driving up Hwy 99 after dark when the flashing red lights came on. The Highway Patrolmen came to my side and began a line of questioning that must have been prompted from boredom. I think he brown streaked his shorts when the sleeping bag in the rear seat began moving around and Linda's head popped out of it. Who says you can't put a passenger in the rear seat. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Its easy to add contacts from Facebook and other social sites through Windows Live Messenger. Learn how. https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_LearnHow From tr3bob at cox.net Wed Jun 11 12:39:42 2008 From: tr3bob at cox.net (tr3bob at cox.net) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 14:39:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3A interior question. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080611143942.3VAUK.13918.imail@eastrmwml05.mgt.cox.net> Tom, In my experience I've found that the floor mats for the TR3 are made a little wider so that they lay up the vertical slightly to cover the seat well under the doors. I used the floor carpet snap rings to keep them in position. FWIW Bob Stahlbush 60 TR3 66MGB 76 Midget 83 XJ6 70 BSA T-bolt 70 BSA lightning ---- tom white wrote: > I bought an interior kit from TRF many, many years ago. I had it installed by > someone else also years ago. When I installed my carpets last Sept. I noticed > that on the vertical pieces between the wheel arches and the door post there > is about an inch and a half of exposed body structure at the bottom. Were > these installed wrong? Did I get the wrong kit? > > Thanks. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join you > on Windows Live Messenger. > https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr3bob at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Jun 11 13:24:13 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 12:24:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing In-Reply-To: <20080611022655.THXQ8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080611022655.THXQ8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Won't work for me either as she was in the right hand seat with the GPS the day we calibrated the speedometer. Maybe I can tell her she has a bad angle on the speedo needle from that position. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 7:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] OD Speedometer Cable Routing >> and she informed >> me that I was doing 96 when I blew by the BMW Z8*. > > Just tell her that these old gauges always read high... From lherault at bu.edu Wed Jun 11 13:32:43 2008 From: lherault at bu.edu (Ron L) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 15:32:43 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR 3 passenger seat. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00a101c8cbf9$eb2588e0$04d4299b@ad.bu.edu> If memory serves, I had 5 in my '58 TR 3 once. Two, stacked in the front passenger seat, myself, driving and two more in the back, and yes, we were all adults but no one was very large. Ron L Tom wrote: I have fond memories of one of my friends, his girl friend and myself driving my '61 TR3A from So. Ca. to Haight Ashbury in March 1967 From agraham at execulink.com Wed Jun 11 13:44:57 2008 From: agraham at execulink.com (Angelo Graham) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 15:44:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question Message-ID: <200806111945.m5BJjZ5R019929@smtp2.execulink.net> Hello fellow listers: Wondering on the wisdom of having my TR2 starter "rebuilt" before I install it into my rebuilt engine. Anticipating the amount of cranking it is going to be called on to deliver to get the engine going and adjusted, thought I should pay some attention to the starter. We have an ex Lucas tech close by who does very good rebuilding work on all manner of Lucas components. On the other hand, what about foregoing the old starter and going to one of the gear reduction units? Ted Schumacher has some great prices on them and for little more than having mine rebuilt, I can get one of Ted's units. Any experiences with the gear reduction units? A good bet? Thanks in advance for any insights. Angelo Graham '55 TR2 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jun 11 14:29:39 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 16:29:39 EDT Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question Message-ID: The gear reduction unit is very much worthwhile. It is the same as I use in my Jaguar. British Starters seems to have the best prices. In my case, shipping was included AND they sell the little pig tail to connect the solenoid to the hot side of the sdtarter. Mike Moore **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 11 14:30:30 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:30:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question In-Reply-To: <200806111945.m5BJjZ5R019929@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200806111945.m5BJjZ5R019929@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <000c01c8cc01$fdc922b0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > On the other hand, what about foregoing the old starter and going to > one of the gear reduction units? That's the route I went on my TR3A, after many frustrating experiences with the early starters. The gear drive worked great ! Had no trouble with my warmed-over engine (87mm liners plus high compression). Both draws less current and will turn the engine on less voltage from the battery than the old Lucas would. And no more of that aggravating scenario where the engine fires once, just enough to pop the Bendix out and then dies, leaving the starter motor impotently whining until you back off the button and wait for it to stop. My only complaint is that the gear drive no longer sounds like cranking an old TRactor motor Sounds more like a jet engine spooling up, with the gear whine going up in pitch until the engine is running. I don't even hear the first chug-chug-chug; it's just running. BTW, I took a little different approach to wiring than most vendors recommend. I wanted to keep my original solenoid, both because I didn't think the dash pushbutton would handle the higher current of the new solenoid, and because the button on the back of the original solenoid is very handy to have under the hood/bonnet. But I knew some of the smoke had already leaked out during misadventures with the Lucas starter. So, I wired the old solenoid to only supply current to the new solenoid coil, and ran a separate battery cable to the new solenoid contacts. Very happy with the results, and planning to move the entire setup to the 'project' TR3, eventually. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Wed Jun 11 15:34:02 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 17:34:02 EDT Subject: [TR] TR 3 passenger seat. Message-ID: In a message dated 6/11/2008 2:33:27 PM Central Daylight Time, lherault at bu.edu writes: > If memory serves, I had 5 in my '58 TR 3 once. Two, stacked in the front > passenger seat, myself, driving and two more in the back, and yes, we were > all adults but no one was very large. > Back in college I had 8 or 9 in my MGB once. Two in the passenger seat, three sitting on the rear scuttle and two or three more sitting on the trunk. We got about a block before we encountered a cop coming the other direction which put an end to it. The 5 or 6 non-legal passengers had to walk but it was just across campus. Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jun 11 16:11:18 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 18:11:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question In-Reply-To: <200806111945.m5BJjZ5R019929@smtp2.execulink.net> References: <200806111945.m5BJjZ5R019929@smtp2.execulink.net> Message-ID: <000f01c8cc10$146bc7d0$210110ac@bobspc> Just walked in from the garage having finished up installing Ted's starter in my TR6. Straight forward installation. Perfect fit and it weighs a whopping 11 pounds LESS then the original Lucas! It's obviously smaller also and that made it an easy one person installation. As Randall noted, it does sound a little different and it sure does spin the engine fast. Ted got a lot of my money this past year but he also saved me a lot with his very competitive prices. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Angelo Graham Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 3:45 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question Hello fellow listers: Wondering on the wisdom of having my TR2 starter "rebuilt" before I install it into my rebuilt engine. Anticipating the amount of cranking it is going to be called on to deliver to get the engine going and adjusted, thought I should pay some attention to the starter. We have an ex Lucas tech close by who does very good rebuilding work on all manner of Lucas components. On the other hand, what about foregoing the old starter and going to one of the gear reduction units? Ted Schumacher has some great prices on them and for little more than having mine rebuilt, I can get one of Ted's units. Any experiences with the gear reduction units? A good bet? Thanks in advance for any insights. Angelo Graham '55 TR2 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.2.0/1495 - Release Date: 6/10/2008 5:11 PM From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jun 11 16:44:30 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 22:44:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] Sudden Idle Change Message-ID: <061120082244.27616.4850554E000A4F5700006BE022165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Is there some chance that you are experiencing boiling of the fuel in your > carbs? Runs great, then idles poorly and stalls fairly quickly. >heatwave in the Northeast, ie, 90 degrees or more. > > We have been brainstorming the problem and solution and believe gasoline with > 10 percent Ethynol (sp?) has a lower boiling point than fuel with no Ethynol > content. Never would have thought of that, George. Interesting point. David Lylis was suggesting it might very well be the gas. I refueled this evening, and will watch this carefully on the drive in tomorrow to see what happens. Will let you know too! Terry, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jun 11 16:49:37 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 22:49:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear passenger seat. Message-ID: <061120082249.12453.485056810008F0AD000030A522165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I carried 4 and 5 crazy teenagers in my first car, a 1964 AH Sprite. Surprisingly, I still got stopped for speeding uphill in Fort Bragg, CA. Not everyone, ahem, as in no one, had a seat belt, but that wasn't a consideration in 1967. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: tom white > I have fond memories of one of my friends, his girl friend and myself driving > my '61 TR3A from So. Ca. to Haight Ashbury in March 1967. I was driving up > Hwy 99 after dark when the flashing red lights came on. The Highway Patrolmen > came to my side and began a line of questioning that must have been prompted > from boredom. I think he brown streaked his shorts when the sleeping bag in > the rear seat began moving around and Linda's head popped out of it. Who says > you can't put a passenger in the rear seat. > > Best regards, > Tom > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Its easy to add contacts from Facebook and other social sites through Windows > Live Messenger. Learn how. > https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_LearnHow > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jun 11 16:58:27 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 22:58:27 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question Message-ID: <061120082258.8323.4850589300000B930000208322165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> > Wondering on the wisdom of having my TR2 starter "rebuilt" before I > install it into my rebuilt engine. On the other hand, what about foregoing the old starter and going to > one of the gear reduction units? Angelo, I have a different "spin" (joke intended, just making it all the more pathetic) but the same advice as the others. When I brought my '59 TR3A restoration project home and tore it apart, I immediately took the bullet nose starter in to a local guy who did a great (I guess) job of restoring it. Probably didn't need much. Then I found out that the previous owner who had intended to restore the car, must have inadvertently sourced the wrong starter. Had I installed it, trouble. Thanks to Randall and others on the List, I caught the error before going live with the car, so to speak, and sourced one of the gear reduction starters. It is a source of not inconsiderable pride that, in the parking garage at work, my car, albeit with electronic ignition, starts in a fraction of a second. The general public thinks I'm one heck of a mechanic to keep such an old car starting at a touch. Who am I to confuse them with the truth? Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire From jerryvv at roadrunner.com Wed Jun 11 17:08:10 2008 From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry Van Vlack) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:08:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 rear passenger seat. References: <061120082249.12453.485056810008F0AD000030A522165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <00f401c8cc18$04fbc770$6401a8c0@userb38463fba5> I enjoyed how my friend described his boats sleeping capacity. He said it sleeps 12 or 6 depening upon how you stack them. Not sure that this qualifies for comment but it's been one of those days that a little humor can go a long way. JVV ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "tom white" ; "Alex" ; "Kevin Thompson" Cc: "Triumph List" Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 6:49 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 rear passenger seat. >I carried 4 and 5 crazy teenagers in my first car, a 1964 AH Sprite. >Surprisingly, I still got stopped for speeding uphill in Fort Bragg, CA. >Not everyone, ahem, as in no one, had a seat belt, but that wasn't a >consideration in 1967. > > Terry Smith, '59 TR3A > New Hampshire > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: tom white > >> I have fond memories of one of my friends, his girl friend and myself >> driving >> my '61 TR3A from So. Ca. to Haight Ashbury in March 1967. I was driving >> up >> Hwy 99 after dark when the flashing red lights came on. The Highway >> Patrolmen >> came to my side and began a line of questioning that must have been >> prompted >> from boredom. I think he brown streaked his shorts when the sleeping bag >> in >> the rear seat began moving around and Linda's head popped out of it. Who >> says >> you can't put a passenger in the rear seat. >> >> Best regards, >> Tom From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 11 17:28:19 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 16:28:19 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question In-Reply-To: <061120082258.8323.4850589300000B930000208322165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> References: <061120082258.8323.4850589300000B930000208322165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: <004001c8cc1a$d52273c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Then I found out that the > previous owner who had intended to restore the car, must have > inadvertently sourced the wrong starter. I doubt Angelo will have this problem, but perhaps this bears repeating for others : There are two different gear-drive starters, depending on whether your TR2-4A motor has the early flywheel with the press-fit ring gear; or one of the later flywheels with the bolt-on ring gear. Since the flywheels are interchangeable to a large extent, you need to be sure which one you have before ordering the starter. At least one seller on eBay seems to be unaware of this distinction, and is offering the later type starter even for the early cars. It won't work ... Randall From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jun 11 17:50:31 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:50:31 EDT Subject: [TR] Ya gotta love it! Message-ID: I rebuilt the motor and the tranny and added an over drive and made all my patch panels and welded them into place and finished the body. What can't I figure out? How to put the seats in. I replaced the drivers side floorpan and the passenger is original. I bolted the seat tracks to the floor in the prescribed holes and the distance between the studs to which the seats bolt is 11 1/2" but the holes in the seat pan are 11". They came out of this car. Which side does the seat lever go on? I have bolted and unbolted and switched around and put them in backwards but can't come up with 11". I am about to drill new holes in the seat pan but I know that is just wrong! Yes Terry, this is the guy who was telling you how to fix your idle but can't figure out how to put his seats in. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From boggiano at charter.net Wed Jun 11 17:51:11 2008 From: boggiano at charter.net (Thomas Boggiano) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:51:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine sleave install References: <061120082258.8323.4850589300000B930000208322165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> <004001c8cc1a$d52273c0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <003a01c8cc1e$070bfb10$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Hi All I am about to have new sleaves put into my TR4 block and was wondering what if anything beyond the figure 8 gasket people used to seal the sleaves. Thanks Tom From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jun 11 18:07:46 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 00:07:46 +0000 Subject: [TR] Ya gotta love it! Message-ID: <061220080007.26960.485068D2000A95370000695022165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I had a hard time with initial install of the seat tracks myself, but was able to squeeze the studs into the holes in the new seat pans from Roadster Factory. Any chance your tracks have bent studs? Terry -------------- Original message -------------- From: DLylis at aol.com > I rebuilt the motor and the tranny and added an over drive and made all my > patch panels and welded them into place and finished the body. What can't I > figure out? How to put the seats in. I replaced the drivers side floorpan > and the passenger is original. I bolted the seat tracks to the floor in the > prescribed holes and the distance between the studs to which the seats bolt is > 11 1/2" but the holes in the seat pan are 11". They came out of this car. > Which side does the seat lever go on? I have bolted and unbolted and switched > around and put them in backwards but can't come up with 11". I am about to > drill new holes in the seat pan but I know that is just wrong! > > Yes Terry, this is the guy who was telling you how to fix your idle but > can't figure out how to put his seats in. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best > 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jun 11 18:21:32 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 20:21:32 EDT Subject: [TR] Ya gotta love it! Message-ID: No, they are straight and in good shape. Maybe I haven't used the right expletives yet, but I have used the best from my collection. If you know any seat installation expletives that I might not know of, please share. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From jimmuller at rcn.com Wed Jun 11 18:28:11 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 20:28:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ya gotta love it! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4850355B.14275.54BD1D8@localhost> On 11 Jun 2008 at 20:21, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > If you know any seat installation expletives that I might not > know of, please share. It isn't the expletive you use but how you deliver it. Sometimes they are more effective when uttered quietly, subtley so to speak. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jun 11 18:25:55 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 20:25:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] Ya gotta love it! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200806112025.55861.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 11 June 2008 07:50 pm, DLylis at aol.com wrote: > I rebuilt the motor and the tranny and added an over drive and made all my > patch panels and welded them into place and finished the body. What can't > I figure out? How to put the seats in. I replaced the drivers side > floorpan and the passenger is original. I bolted the seat tracks to the > floor in the prescribed holes and the distance between the studs to which > the seats bolt is 11 1/2" but the holes in the seat pan are 11". They > came out of this car. Which side does the seat lever go on? I have bolted > and unbolted and switched around and put them in backwards but can't come > up with 11". I am about to drill new holes in the seat pan but I know > that is just wrong! > > Yes Terry, this is the guy who was telling you how to fix your idle but > can't figure out how to put his seats in. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO David, Now I just finished re-installing my seats the other day after installing my rebuilt engine. So let me tell you how I did it. The levers on my 58 seem to fit best if they are mounted on the outside facing the doors. Now the seat track that mounts to the floor will have the lip facing in towards the other track part. The top track parts will sort of hook there and the lip will face the door on the lever track and the track part without the lever will face the drive shaft tunnel. Same for both seats. Does that help? Bob From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jun 11 19:39:26 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 21:39:26 EDT Subject: [TR] Ya gotta love it! Message-ID: Yes it does help. I thought I had done that combination and kept coming up with 11 1/2". It fits now. Thanks. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Wed Jun 11 21:12:12 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 20:12:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine sleave install In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01ab01c8cc3a$1c68f870$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Tom, When I rebuild the wet sleeve engines, I make sure the block is spotless first. This means having it hot-tanked, rinsed, and forced air dry. Then I make sure the sleeve seats are clean, clean, clean. Then I used the slightest amount of silicon sealant on the F8 gasket (and use good quality - you'll pay again for poor quality gaskets!), set the gasket in place, slide in the sleeve, and hold in place with a little pressure from a head stud. Never had one leak in 30 years... Good luck! Brian '67 4a ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:51:11 -0400 From: "Thomas Boggiano" Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine sleave install To: Message-ID: <003a01c8cc1e$070bfb10$6601a8c0 at na01.crl.com> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Hi All I am about to have new sleaves put into my TR4 block and was wondering what if anything beyond the figure 8 gasket people used to seal the sleaves. Thanks Tom ------------------------------ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 11 21:17:43 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 20:17:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine sleave install In-Reply-To: <003a01c8cc1e$070bfb10$6601a8c0@na01.crl.com> Message-ID: <20080612031743.NBRH8238.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > I am about to have new sleaves put into my TR4 block and was > wondering what if anything beyond the figure 8 gasket people > used to seal the sleaves. Hmm, seems like my original post didn't show up. Apologies if this is a duplicate. I like to use Permatex #3 (aka "Aviation Form-A-Gasket") on the seat in the block, and on the ledge where the "Fig 8" gasket sits. That's reasonably close to the Wellseal the book calls for. I believe you can get genuine Wellseal @ TRF, but the Permatex has always worked for me. Randall From dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz Thu Jun 12 00:47:19 2008 From: dunscomb at chch.planet.org.nz (Alan & Lyn Dunscombe) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 18:47:19 +1200 Subject: [TR] Rear brake line info TR3 Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20080612184342.018de198@mail.cyberxpress.co.nz> Greetings to everyone from The Deep South in New Zealand. My turn to ask for help here. My winter project is to install my new 3A rear axle to replace my early style weak axle assy. at long last in my TR2. I am redoing all the braking system and I need some help with making the new metal brake lines to run from the wheel cylinders to the T junction mounted on the new axle. (The lines on my 2^nd.hand axle have been cut off at the cylinder ends so I have no pattern to work from.) Can anyone help provide pictures of the correct routing of the lines along the axle assy. and round to the cylinders ? (I cannot find good enough photos in any of my books) Can anyone tell me the correct length to get the lines made to before they are bent? All help would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards Alan TS3512 From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jun 12 04:53:23 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 06:53:23 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 Engine sleave install Message-ID: I have used Wellseal for this application as well as others. The only contribution I will make to this is make sure the surfaces are clean and follow the directions. That may sound obvious but Wellseal works well if treated like contact cement. Paint all mating surfaces, allow to set up a little, then assemble. Do not use Wellseal in a wet surface to dry surface application. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jun 12 05:09:34 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 07:09:34 EDT Subject: [TR] Rear brake line info TR3 Message-ID: Alan, I have sent you pics of the brake line routing. Sorry I have no reference for the length. Let me know if they are received OK. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From tedtsimx at bright.net Thu Jun 12 05:57:00 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 07:57:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48510F0C.1060505@bright.net> MMoore8425 at aol.com wrote: > The gear reduction unit is very much worthwhile. It is the same as I use in > my Jaguar. British Starters seems to have the best prices. In my case, > shipping was included AND they sell the little pig tail to connect the solenoid to > the hot side of the sdtarter. > > Mike Moore > > > > **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best > 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1498 - Release Date: 6/11/2008 7:13 PM > Mike, our starter comes with all needed wiring. We do not "sell" you pieces that should be included with the unit. And, we supply tech support. No, British Starters does not sell the same starter we produce. Commercially yours, Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Jun 12 07:33:45 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 09:33:45 EDT Subject: [TR] TR2/3 starter question Message-ID: In a message dated 6/12/2008 4:58:26 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tedtsimx at bright.net writes: Mike, our starter comes with all needed wiring. We do not "sell" you pieces that should be included with the unit. And, we supply tech support. No, British Starters does not sell the same starter we produce. Commercially yours, Ted Hi Ted, no offense intended, especially to one of the scions of our hobby!. They sell the (original) Gustavson starter do they not? I was impressed by the low price (ca $180 including shipping), but especially the reference to and discussion with the manufacturer about why the solenoid failures and what can be done to modify them for racing so they don't fail. Best, Mike Moore **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Jun 12 09:17:51 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 11:17:51 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs @ Mosport 20-22 June 08 Message-ID: Triumph Folks: Some of us Triumphs are going to Mosport. Not many, but it should be interesting. Added bonus is a Can-Am Reunion......and the Canadian Hospitality If you are on the fence on this, make the leap. Stop by. Joe Alexander From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Jun 12 10:02:29 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 10:02:29 -0600 Subject: [TR] [ISOA Project Stag:] TTA Stag restoration makes the Chicago Sun Times Message-ID: <48514895.2010304@tscusa.org> Hi All, Word is slowly leaking out about our little secret project ... The article can be viewed online here: http://searchchicago.suntimes.com/autos/news/998301,AM061108_triumph.article It also appears in today's Lake County News-Sun, The Beacon News, Pioneer Press, The Courier News, The Herald News, and Southtown Star. Whooo HOOOO!! Thank you Andy Mikonis for the article!! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From davgil at aol.com Thu Jun 12 11:56:44 2008 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 13:56:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] anyone on this list? In-Reply-To: <004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net> References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local> <004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net> Message-ID: <8CA9ACCCF449957-E34-185A@webmail-da09.sysops.aol.com> Anyway, that's your story and you are sticking to it.? Right? -----Original Message----- From: Joe Laurito To: 'Oliver' ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 10:52 am Subject: Re: [6pack] anyone on this list? I was running errands around Hershey yesterday in my '75 Mimosa TR6, but was not at the Hershey Hotel. There are a few in the area that I know of, but if it was parked at the hotel, it probably was not a local car. Joe Laurito Central PA Triumph Club -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 11:01 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list? hi, all. we saw a beautiful yellow (sorry - is that mimosa?) tr6 around noon parked in front of the hershey hotel today (yes, hershey, pennsylvania). anyone on this list? it was very nice! 75 or 76 i believe. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1499 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 7:13 AM 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as davgil at aol.com From smithw1 at optonline.net Thu Jun 12 16:17:57 2008 From: smithw1 at optonline.net (William L. Smith) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 18:17:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Sudden change in idle Message-ID: <002101c8ccda$2aeea980$7c095243@D6NFTC81> Terry, I don't know if you've found the cause yet, but I had a similar problem about 5 years ago. By accident, I found out that the problem was stale gas (I had last filled up during the late fall/winter when they were using a winter formulation here in NJ). On my way to my favorite Triumph mechanic to get the problem diagnosed, I realized the tank was low on gas so I stopped to fill up. As soon as I pulled away from the gas station, my idle/stalling problem was gone. If you filled up recently, it's also possible that you got some bad gas. That happened to me once, and also to my daughter-in-law. Bill Smith '72 TR6 '80 TR7 From rbtr3a at cox.net Thu Jun 12 19:32:36 2008 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 21:32:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] happy birthday Message-ID: <20080612213236.2VY4L.245401.imail@eastrmwml35> happy birthday to my friend Fred Thomas. Ronnie Babbitt From jimmuller at rcn.com Thu Jun 12 19:59:02 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 21:59:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] happy birthday In-Reply-To: <20080612213236.2VY4L.245401.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <48519C26.17678.369E1D@localhost> On 12 Jun 2008 at 21:32, rbtr3a at cox.net wrote: > happy birthday to my friend Fred Thomas. Well, cheers! Here's to many more. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Thu Jun 12 20:05:01 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 20:05:01 -0600 Subject: [TR] happy birthday In-Reply-To: <20080612213236.2VY4L.245401.imail@eastrmwml35> References: <20080612213236.2VY4L.245401.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <002501c8ccf9$e447e8a0$6401a8c0@sniffer> HAPPY BIRTHDAY FRED! You're probably old enough to vote now? :-) Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rbtr3a at cox.net Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 7:33 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] happy birthday happy birthday to my friend Fred Thomas. Ronnie Babbitt This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Jun 12 20:10:49 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 21:10:49 -0500 Subject: [TR] FW: happy birthday Message-ID: Fred, Today is my daughter's birthday also! She is thirteen, maybe you two are twins?No, I will not send you a weekly allowance! Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jun 12 20:55:55 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 22:55:55 -0400 Subject: [TR] happy birthday In-Reply-To: <20080612213236.2VY4L.245401.imail@eastrmwml35> References: <20080612213236.2VY4L.245401.imail@eastrmwml35> Message-ID: <001001c8cd01$01a8cc00$210110ac@bobspc> Fred....... Happy Birthday..... You old coot! Hope you're feeling better and driving the crap outta that beautiful car! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rbtr3a at cox.net Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 9:33 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] happy birthday happy birthday to my friend Fred Thomas. Ronnie Babbitt This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1498 - Release Date: 6/11/2008 7:13 PM From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 12 23:16:49 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 22:16:49 -0700 Subject: [TR] happy birthday In-Reply-To: <002501c8ccf9$e447e8a0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080613051649.UIPN7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > You're probably old enough to vote now? :-) Fer sure he's old enough to know better ! Happy B'day Fred. From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jun 13 04:55:52 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 06:55:52 EDT Subject: [TR] happy birthday Message-ID: Happy Birthday Fred. Enjoy your day, and many more. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From jmitch at snet.net Fri Jun 13 05:00:42 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 07:00:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] happy birthday In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4852535A.4030400@snet.net> Happy Birthday Fred..... I've heard that the reason you look so young is that you've been powder coated! Have a wonderful year. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From triumphs at consolidated.net Fri Jun 13 05:51:22 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 06:51:22 -0500 Subject: [TR] happy birthday In-Reply-To: <20080613051649.UIPN7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: Or too old to care. :) Happy birthday my friend. Ken Gano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 12:17 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] happy birthday > You're probably old enough to vote now? :-) Fer sure he's old enough to know better ! Happy B'day Fred. This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as triumphs at consolidated.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 4:58 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 4:58 PM From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Jun 13 05:56:42 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 07:56:42 EDT Subject: [TR] happy birthday Message-ID: Hey Fred....Happy Birthday.....you know, when you turn 50, they send you an AARP Card for free...yours should be in the mail soon!!!:) Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/12/2008 6:33:12 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rbtr3a at cox.net writes: happy birthday to my friend Fred Thomas. **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From ambritts at bellsouth.net Fri Jun 13 06:19:32 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 08:19:32 -0400 Subject: [TR] Happy Birthday Message-ID: <02cb01c8cd4f$bcde12c0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Happy birthday Fred. John Mitchell said something about powder coating. Don't forget the innards. Thunderbird in a brown bag works well for the inside. Alex Manzo From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jun 13 07:44:50 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 09:44:50 -0400 Subject: [TR] What if? Little LBC Content Message-ID: <000001c8cd5b$a8eecf00$210110ac@bobspc> OK..so it's in Hemmings which gives it some LBC credibility but.........what if an LBC wandered too close to an F-16 training area? Hopefully we'll never know but here's a Suburban that did. http://tinyurl.com/6cdczn Better picture here http://tinyurl.com/5v3wyc Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From kentshrack at yahoo.com Fri Jun 13 08:01:28 2008 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 07:01:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Fred Message-ID: <26258.55568.qm@web57807.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Happy Birthday FRED.  Are you about the same age as your red car?   Not saying, which red car.   Kent & Karen Shrack Lawrence, KS  TS78563 o From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jun 13 09:36:00 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 11:36:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] New Starter Message-ID: <000001c8cd6b$3051ef90$210110ac@bobspc> Folks.....I just updated my site with the installation of Ted Schumacher's gear reduction starter. Quality product and a great price. The TR6 starter can be a PITA to install due to limited access of the top bolt/nut. I came up with a pretty simple way of doing it that made it an easy one person operation. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Starter.htm Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips when the starter died. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us Fri Jun 13 14:38:16 2008 From: DPaige at ci.santa-rosa.ca.us (Paige, Dean) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 13:38:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-6 Trailer Hitch??? In-Reply-To: <000c01c8c069$70974500$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B6BE@mail2.sr.local> OK Guys here's one for you? Anyone have a line on where I can get a trailer hitch set up for a TR-6. I just bough a 1955 Glastron 13 ft. runabout in unbelievably good shape for near nothin. Really a retro cute little thing with a 20 horse Evinrude. I think this blue and white honey would look real nice towed behind my Red TR. Did this before with a 16 ft many an eon ago with a TR-4a when they were still being made. A factory hitch was available at the time. NOW?? Wtfk. Deano From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Jun 13 15:02:54 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 17:02:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR-6 Trailer Hitch??? References: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B6BE@mail2.sr.local> Message-ID: <002d01c8cd98$da91f220$0200a8c0@Desktop> Make your own ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paige, Dean" To: "triumphs" Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 4:38 PM Subject: [TR] TR-6 Trailer Hitch??? > OK Guys here's one for you? Anyone have a line on where I can get a > trailer hitch set up for a TR-6. I just bough a 1955 Glastron 13 ft. > runabout in unbelievably good shape for near nothin. Really a retro cute > little thing with a 20 horse Evinrude. I think this blue and white honey > would look real nice towed behind my Red TR. > > Did this before with a 16 ft many an eon ago with a TR-4a when they were > still being made. A factory hitch was available at the time. NOW?? Wtfk. > > Deano > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 13 15:31:18 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 14:31:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR-6 Trailer Hitch??? In-Reply-To: <38EB329C843ED444A8CF05627CC4BFA612B6BE@mail2.sr.local> Message-ID: <20080613213118.HMMI5514.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > OK Guys here's one for you? Anyone have a line on where I can > get a trailer hitch set up for a TR-6. Any decent trailer store should be able to semi-custom make one for you. They have universal kits with sliding joints that can be relatively easily modified. >From Santa Rosa, I'd probably start by calling Bob's Travel Center on Santa Rosa Ave. 707-573-9277 Or Valley Tire & Brake on Piner, 707-544-3420 R.V. Specialist on Yolanda looks like another place to try, 707-527-6778 Don't know anything about any of them, except I saw them on Google just now. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jun 13 16:49:57 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 18:49:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] No u-joints?? Message-ID: <4852C155.19696.4AFDEAF@localhost> Stopped by the local Autozone today to pick up some oil and a u-joint for the Spitfire. They had oil of course, but no u-joint. Well, what the '? I thought it was a common size, not that I know much about u-joint sizes but I coulda' swore it was a find-on-any-street- corner sort of part. Yeesh. At least I got the oil changed. The Spitfire makes a nice runabout in today's world. The gas costs 2.5% more than the gas for the Caravan but the Spitfire gets 50% to 75% better mileage! Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 13 17:07:06 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 16:07:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] No u-joints?? In-Reply-To: <4852C155.19696.4AFDEAF@localhost> Message-ID: <20080613230706.IQPI5514.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > They had oil of course, but no u-joint. Of course it's always possible they actually had the UJ, just no listing for it. OTOH, there just aren't that many small cars that use UJs any more, so I doubt they are all that common. My local independent had two of the UJs that fit TR2-6 & Stag, but they looked like they had been on the shelf for a long, long time. And best I can tell, AutoZone doesn't stock anything that they can't sell within just a few months. Randall From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Jun 13 20:56:27 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 22:56:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Compression boost Message-ID: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan> I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor. I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel. I couldn't decide what to do with the head. I just left it at the machine shop and am going to have it milled for 9 to 1 compression. The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular gas. Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement; or if I just should have bumped the compression even higher. Al www.triumphowners.com/624 From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Jun 13 21:25:08 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:25:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan> I wonder how much difference there is between 9.5 and 9.0 compression. I could bump it up. As a daily driver, I prefer not to have to run premium. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: "Alan Salvatore" ; ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 11:08 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] Compression boost My understanding is that you can go at least as high as 9.5:1 or perhaps 9.6:1 and still be fine on regular gas. At least I hope so, I had my head and block machined for 9.6:1 based on that assumption. It would not ruin my whole day if I had use a higher octane however. Stan I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor. I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel. I couldn't decide what to do with the head. I just left it at the machine shop and am going to have it milled for 9 to 1 compression. The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular gas. Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement; or if I just should have bumped the compression even higher. Al From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jun 13 21:32:29 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:32:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan> References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan> Message-ID: Hi, Once you get above 9.5:1, you can run regular or mid-grade fuel, but you have to watch for pinging and if you get ping, you have to back off the timing. Note that the higher the compression ratio, the more critical your ignition timing becomes. Once you go over 9.5:1, you really have to use high octane fuel. Some states only have 91 as the premium so that would limit your optimal max. compression ratio. For states that can get 93, you might get away with 10:1, but you need to plan you "trips" to places where you can get fuel of you have to tote around bottles of octane boost. Richard Good has a nice chart of how to have your head milled. Oh, once you go above 9.5:1, you have to start thinking about reshaping the combustion chambers to reduce possible "hot spots" as those are a def. item in promoting pinging in a high compression motor. In my travels, I have seen streetable TR6's with reported 10:1 motors, but I have to hear a motor before I believe the claims of CR. 12:1 motors sound way kool. But forget about pump gas. :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From mdporter at dfn.com Fri Jun 13 21:42:47 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 21:42:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan> References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan> Message-ID: <48533E37.5060504@dfn.com> Alan Salvatore wrote: > I wonder how much difference there is between 9.5 and 9.0 compression. > I could bump it up. > As a daily driver, I prefer not to have to run premium. > > I think it depends upon how chamber preparation one does. Milling the head and just slapping it on will likely cause problems, if only because of the sharp edges from the milling. Attending to those, and a little smoothing of the rough edges here and there in the chamber will go a long way toward keeping the pre-ignition effects to a minimum. Some of it is dependent upon chamber shape--there are new cars out there that are running 87 octane on 10.5:1 compression--but, taking care of the obvious burrs, projections, etc., will help. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jun 13 21:52:30 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:52:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <48533E37.5060504@dfn.com> References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan> <48533E37.5060504@dfn.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 13 Jun 2008, Michael Porter wrote: [stuff deleted] > Some of it is dependent upon chamber shape--there are new cars out there > that are running 87 octane on 10.5:1 compression--but, taking care of > the obvious burrs, projections, etc., will help. I'm not trying to "one-up" here, but a modern car with ALUMINUM HEADS and ENGINE MANAGEMENT has a few advantages over a cast iron engine with (likely) sub-optimal ignition timing (and the possible sharp edges). These are two completly different animals. Regarding TR6 heads, you can actually cut quite a bit and not introduce sharp edges and you can "fix" the probs with a dremel tool and some quality time. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From wbeech at flash.net Fri Jun 13 22:36:39 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 22:36:39 -0600 Subject: [TR] No u-joints?? In-Reply-To: <4852C155.19696.4AFDEAF@localhost> References: <4852C155.19696.4AFDEAF@localhost> Message-ID: <000301c8cdd8$3d94a180$6401a8c0@sniffer> Odd, I stopped by the local Checker a couple of weeks ago for the TR3A. They did not have it in stock but had it by 3:00pm that day. About $12.00. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 4:50 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] No u-joints?? Stopped by the local Autozone today to pick up some oil and a u-joint for the Spitfire. They had oil of course, but no u-joint. Well, what the '? I thought it was a common size, not that I know much about u-joint sizes but I coulda' swore it was a find-on-any-street- corner sort of part. Yeesh. At least I got the oil changed. The Spitfire makes a nice runabout in today's world. The gas costs 2.5% more than the gas for the Caravan but the Spitfire gets 50% to 75% better mileage! Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 13 22:57:07 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 21:57:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan> Message-ID: <20080614045707.OFG23887.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I wonder how much difference there is between 9.5 and 9.0 compression. > I could bump it up. > As a daily driver, I prefer not to have to run premium. I don't recall the equation offhand, but the maximum torque of a car engine can be predicted reasonably accurately from just displacement and compression ratio. It follows that higher compression means more efficiency (IOW more power from the same amount of fuel or less fuel for the same power). So usually (tho not always), running the CR up until you need premium fuel actually lowers the cost per mile slightly. You pay more per gallon, but the better fuel mileage more than compensates for it. Assuming of course you don't use that extra power too often Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jun 14 07:08:31 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 09:08:31 EDT Subject: [TR] Compression boost Message-ID: In a message dated 6/13/2008 9:56:27 PM Central Daylight Time, tr6parts at charter.net writes: > I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor. > I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel. > I couldn't decide what to do with the head. I just left it at the machine > shop and am going to have it milled for > 9 to 1 compression. > The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular > gas. > Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement; > or if I just should have bumped the compression even higher. > Al, I'm running somewhere between 9 and 9.5 to 1 on my TR6 and I have no problems with midgrade gas (89 octane). 9:1 is a good compromise. Dave From cole.jw at comcast.net Sat Jun 14 08:51:44 2008 From: cole.jw at comcast.net (Jerry Cole) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 07:51:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticker Location References: Message-ID: <000b01c8ce2e$2a973830$ba00a8c0@Belen> Good morning all, It is so nice to be to a point in the restoration where I can worry about details like this! I have the proper "TR6" stickers for the rear wings. Vertically, it would line up with where the tail light wraps around the body . What is the correct distance between the edge of the "TR6" and the edge of the tail light? Thanks! Jerry Cole Lakewood, WA. 1972 TR6 (Helen Back) From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jun 14 09:01:11 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 11:01:11 EDT Subject: [TR] TR6 Sticker Location Message-ID: In a message dated 6/14/2008 9:52:06 AM Central Daylight Time, cole.jw at comcast.net writes: > I have the proper "TR6" stickers for the rear wings. Vertically, it would > line up with where the tail light wraps around the body . What is the > correct distance between the edge of the "TR6" and the edge of the tail > light? Thanks! > I just measured mine and they are 2 inches at the center. I seem to recall that when I put these on back in 1996 I referred to a 6Pack publication that specified the distance. They look right anyway. Dave Massey 57 TR3 71 TR6 80 TR8 From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat Jun 14 12:33:17 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 14:33:17 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Trailer Hitches for Triumphs Message-ID: Cool, I had a trailer hitch on both my TR4A and my current TR3A. The TR4A towed an Appleby Pop-up camper. I also pulled a utility trailer with both of these cars, when I wasnt pulling stumps. Hitch was made from sturdy flat mill stock using the frame rails and cross tubes. I sold it to Brad Kahler. I was unaware, or do not remember a factory hitch. If there were enough interest.... BTW, the Miata seat conversion kit is making progress and will likely be available in July. Certainly by VTR Convention. This is Uncle Jack's Project with engineering, and manufacturing by my son, Sean. Joe A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------- > > OK Guys here's one for you? Anyone have a line on where I can get a > trailer hitch set up for a TR-6. I just bough a 1955 Glastron 13 ft. > runabout in unbelievably good shape for near nothin. Really a retro cute > little thing with a 20 horse Evinrude. I think this blue and white honey > would look real nice towed behind my Red TR. > > Did this before with a 16 ft many an eon ago with a TR-4a when they were > still being made. A factory hitch was available at the time. NOW?? Wtfk. > > Deano > > From tr6parts at charter.net Sat Jun 14 14:43:26 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 16:43:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] Compression boost References: Message-ID: <001b01c8ce5f$4c1579f0$59449e18@alan> >From the respones I've gotten, I am going to stick with the 9:1 ratio I got from Richard Good's web site. That way I should still be able to run regular gas. If I feel the need I can always take some more off; the tricky part is putting it back on. Thanks all, Al From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jun 14 15:51:39 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:51:39 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Wiring Message-ID: I have the TR2 Bentley with the 3 supplement, but the wiring reference for my 60 3A does not match. The four wires that come out of the stator tube do not match in color to the diagram. It appears that the wiring harness is a replacement, and is correct, because up to this ppoint I have had no problems. Rather than go into into great detail here, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 60 3A, and is it expected to be different that the Bentley? The stator tube issue and the connections on the right and left inner wings is the problem. TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From maya2blue at juno.com Sat Jun 14 15:53:18 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 16:53:18 -0500 Subject: [TR] oil cooler line gone! Message-ID: <20080614.165319.1640.0.maya2blue@juno.com> Greetings, Turned into my garage this evening and noticed a line of oil drops about 10 feet long! Hummmm.. Then found a 1 1/2 - 2 cup puddle of oil under the car.. Turns out that the longer of the two oil lines from the adapter plate to the oil cooler rubbed against a frame member and that last turn must have been final "rub" that caused the leak. Didn't lose too much oil - maybe 2 cups+.... Does anyone have any experience replacing these oil lines? I would like to go to a SS braided line - Appreciate any suggestions or BTDT answers... Many tks.. Harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Enter for Your Chance to WIN* The TotalBeauty.com Summer Spa Sweepstakes! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UfhvnD2QzZPYAOynq87GeZuapDTdazuSqz4kdgQFD4EJZH/ From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jun 14 15:57:18 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 17:57:18 EDT Subject: [TR] oil cooler line gone! Message-ID: Is SS braided going to prevent that from happening? I ask because I have used SS braided on my 3A, which is being assembled, and it is impossible to go from adapter to cooler without contact. I used SS for this reason and have minimzed touch points as much as possible, but they are still there. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From adcronin at ameritech.net Sat Jun 14 16:11:32 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 15:11:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Trailer Hitches for Triumphs Message-ID: <114111.24569.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> So Joe, was there much interest from the TR2 to 3B crowd in the Miata conversion kit? Dan Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: "N197TR4 at cs.com" To: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 2:33:17 PM Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Trailer Hitches for Triumphs Cool, I had a trailer hitch on both my TR4A and my current TR3A. The TR4A towed an Appleby Pop-up camper. I also pulled a utility trailer with both of these cars, when I wasnt pulling stumps. Hitch was made from sturdy flat mill stock using the frame rails and cross tubes. I sold it to Brad Kahler. I was unaware, or do not remember a factory hitch. If there were enough interest.... BTW, the Miata seat conversion kit is making progress and will likely be available in July. Certainly by VTR Convention. This is Uncle Jack's Project with engineering, and manufacturing by my son, Sean. Joe A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------------- > > OK Guys here's one for you? Anyone have a line on where I can get a > trailer hitch set up for a TR-6. I just bough a 1955 Glastron 13 ft. > runabout in unbelievably good shape for near nothin. Really a retro cute > little thing with a 20 horse Evinrude. I think this blue and white honey > would look real nice towed behind my Red TR. > > Did this before with a 16 ft many an eon ago with a TR-4a when they were > still being made. A factory hitch was available at the time. NOW?? Wtfk. > > Deano > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 14 16:33:28 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 15:33:28 -0700 Subject: [TR] oil cooler line gone! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080614223328.VZHB28655.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Is SS braided going to prevent that from happening? The SS braid offers more abrasion resistance; but still the secret is to avoid the abrasion in the first place. That means that, any place the hose can rub against something, it has to be fastened down or moved away, so it can't rub. Touching is OK, but not rubbing, so add as many clamps as it takes. Randall From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat Jun 14 16:35:38 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 18:35:38 EDT Subject: [TR] Triumphs Digest, Trailer Hitches for Triumphs Message-ID: Dan! A couple folks are interested. One said it couldnt be done. One said he did it by reversing the seats. First hand knowledge is hard to find so we cant plan for success on 3's. It looks like a good long term project to me. The hard work has been done. Now Jack and his designate will prove the concept with a trial fit. Then release the production for about 50 sets m/l. Maybe July. Certainly before VTR Convention. NFI on my part, just helping out. Joe A > So Joe, was there much interest from the TR2 to 3B crowd in the Miata > conversion kit? > Dan > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 14 16:47:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 15:47:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3A Wiring In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080614224729.QKRF7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > The four wires that > come out of the stator tube do not match in color to the > diagram. Neither did the apparently original ones on my 59 TR3A. It's my belief that the subharness through the column changed, but the diagram was never updated. > Rather than go into into great detail here, does anyone have > a wiring diagram for a 60 3A, and is it expected to be > different that the Bentley? Definitely different; there are at least 5 different wiring diagrams. But I never finished my project to map diagrams to change points; and the latest diagram I have (from Practical Hints 6th Edition) which does seem to show all the other late wiring changes; still doesn't match the colors I found in that harness on my car. Also by now, someone has certainly had the control head apart and may not have put the wires back on the right terminals. > The stator tube issue and the > connections on the right and left inner wings is the problem. My suggestion is to ignore the colors, and check the wires with an ohmmeter or powered test lamp. That's what I do every time I have it apart (since many of my original colors are faded to illegibility anyway). For the wiring to the control head, it's easy. The horn wire (brown/black in the diagram) is a heavier gauge, so it's easy to spot. That leaves 3 wires. Set the lever for right turn, and check each pair of wires for continuity. You should find two wires that have continuity; the third, open wire is for the left turn signals (green/red in the diagram). Now set the lever for left turn and check again. The wire you identified as green/red before should now have continuity to another wire, that wire is power to the control head (green in the diagram). The remaining wire (open in the last test) is the green/white to the right turn signals. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jun 14 19:54:32 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 21:54:32 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3A Wiring Message-ID: Fortunately I was only half an idiot and marked the receiving wires on the left inner wing so I know what goes there even though there is a color change into the main harness. I did that when I first removed the front apron before I started the restoration. That was before I got cocky and convinced myself that I could remember/figure it out when the time came. That leaves me with one unknown wire on the right inner wing. Thanks for the response! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jun 15 00:18:09 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 02:18:09 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost Message-ID: In a message dated 6/14/2008 11:48:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, triumph.tr4 at gmail.com writes: Isn't there a source for extra thick head gaskets? Even made to order thickness so that someone could lower their compression ratio (slightly) if they wanted to? Yes. This is the guy. Mordy Dunst Dr. Gasket Gasket Works (626) 358-1616 _http://www.headgasket.com_ (http://www.headgasket.com/) _Copper at headgasket.com_ (mailto:Copper at headgasket.com) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008. (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102) From triumphs at consolidated.net Sun Jun 15 08:03:38 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 09:03:38 -0500 Subject: [TR] oil cooler line gone! In-Reply-To: <20080614.165319.1640.0.maya2blue@juno.com> Message-ID: I had a similar problem with SS lines. The only source I found for a replacement (they use a British Pipe fitting) was one tractor dealer locally. Good luck. Ken Gano -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+triumphs=consolidated.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of maya2blue at juno.com Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 4:53 PM To: nass at yahoogroups.com; NASS-club at yahoogroups.com; spitfires at autox.team.net; SPIT6CGT6 at yahoogroups.com; spitfire-enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; Triumph_GT6_Enthusiast at yahoogroups.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] oil cooler line gone! Greetings, Turned into my garage this evening and noticed a line of oil drops about 10 feet long! Hummmm.. Then found a 1 1/2 - 2 cup puddle of oil under the car.. Turns out that the longer of the two oil lines from the adapter plate to the oil cooler rubbed against a frame member and that last turn must have been final "rub" that caused the leak. Didn't lose too much oil - maybe 2 cups+.... Does anyone have any experience replacing these oil lines? I would like to go to a SS braided line - Appreciate any suggestions or BTDT answers... Many tks.. Harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Enter for Your Chance to WIN* The TotalBeauty.com Summer Spa Sweepstakes! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UfhvnD2QzZPYAOynq87GeZua pDTdazuSqz4kdgQFD4EJZH/ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as triumphs at consolidated.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1502 - Release Date: 6/13/2008 7:25 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1503 - Release Date: 6/14/2008 6:02 PM From jat1127 at hotmail.com Sun Jun 15 08:46:01 2008 From: jat1127 at hotmail.com (john taylor) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 10:46:01 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2 TR 4's in Vermont ??? Message-ID: Listers, Yesterday I saw two nice green TR4's at the Manchester Vermont car show. I was not able to locate the owners and have a few questions. Are you on the list?John John TaylorGreenfield, Ma Gloucester, Ma USA. * ALWAYS BE SAFE * Life is not a race.....you do not want to finish first. _________________________________________________________________ Enjoy 5 GB of free, password-protected online storage. http://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_s kydrive_062008 From triumphstag at gmail.com Sun Jun 15 11:43:53 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 10:43:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR7 water pump rebuilders Message-ID: Anyone know of a shop that can rebuild my water pump for a Stag. It is the same as a TR7 I'm really looking for someone to machine the impeller San Jose CA Thanks, Sujit From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sun Jun 15 20:38:52 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 22:38:52 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spare Supercharger Message-ID: <2DA9A9265F684101874F232C36BB2425@D1TG6Y71> I am in the process of supercharging my TR6 (following Rick Patton's excellently described footsteps ...see http://www.topshamautoparts.com/tr6/schrgr3.htm for more info). I have now found an Mercedes M62 blower (complete with the electric clutch!), and so have an M45 Mercedes blower from a C230 sitting in my shop that is not needed. This is a short nosed system, and is a little more compact than the C230 M62. It is in good shape ... if anyone is interested in supercharging as per Rick's approach, this unit would work well once you relocate the alternator. Before I do anything else with this unit, I wanted to at least post a note to listers in case their is anyone looking to the question looking for suitable unit for a Triumph (given the length limitations that affect the Triumph owner wanting to supercharge their cars). Please contact me off list if you want photos, dimensions, etc. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Jun 15 21:10:00 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 23:10:00 -0400 Subject: [TR] bottom trunnion grease fitting size? Message-ID: <00ee01c8cf62$ffcfeb20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> The driver's side brass truunion is missing it's bottom grease fitting. I was hoping it would be an easy replacement as I had several sizes of fittings in my shop. None of them 'caught' any kind of thread or anything, but, a fine threaded 5/16" bolt seem to come the closest (it didn't really thread either). Using a 7/16"ths wrench I attempted to unscrew the one on the other front wheel, but it just kept turning and would not unscrew. Hopefully, this is an easy repair and I don't have to replace the entire truunion just because it's missing a grease fitting!! I believe this size fitting is also used above the ball joints. Is this repair doable? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 684 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sun Jun 15 21:22:33 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 23:22:33 -0400 Subject: [TR] 'More BS..." difficulties Message-ID: <00ef01c8cf63$00877b50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I have made a .pdf of "More BS about TR's" and am having trouble sending it. I had it 'digitized' at a local printer's, and they maynot have known what they were doing. I told them I would 'emailing it', but they made it 25MB large, Is this too big for a .pdf? (It's only a 30 page booklet. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 684 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From wbeech at flash.net Sun Jun 15 22:13:24 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 22:13:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] 'More BS..." difficulties In-Reply-To: <00ef01c8cf63$00877b50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00ef01c8cf63$00877b50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000f01c8cf67$5367ecc0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Paul, 25meg is pretty large for a .PDF file of a 30 page black & White booklet, the problem is most email systems will block attachments greater than about 10meg. The .PDF I have on Tuning SU Carbs is 49 pages and only 1.6meg. They must have set the resolution high as if you were copying a photograph. See if they can re-do it to a 600x600 resolution. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 9:23 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] 'More BS..." difficulties I have made a .pdf of "More BS about TR's" and am having trouble sending it. I had it 'digitized' at a local printer's, and they maynot have known what they were doing. I told them I would 'emailing it', but they made it 25MB large, Is this too big for a .pdf? (It's only a 30 page booklet. -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 684 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 15 22:21:01 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 21:21:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] 'More BS..." difficulties In-Reply-To: <00ef01c8cf63$00877b50$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080616042101.SWNZ23887.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall> > I had it 'digitized' at a local printer's, and they maynot > have known what they were doing. I told them I would > 'emailing it', but they made it 25MB large, Is this too big > for a .pdf? (It's only a 30 page booklet. Certainly too large to email ! But not unusual at all for a PDF that is a scan (actually pretty good). The problem is that each page winds up being a large graphic image, and graphic images take up a lot of space. For example, scanning an 8.5 by 11" page at 300 dpi results in over 8 million pixels. Even if each pixel only takes one byte (in monochrome), that's over 8 Mb per page ! Of course compression can knock that down, but 8:1 compression is very good, and that still leaves you with 1 Mb/page. The best solution is to run the text through OCR (Optical Character Resolution) and only keep the images as images. But, that takes a whole LOT of work (resulting text has to be proof-read, corrected, formatted, linked to images, etc.) and is far outside the scope of just scanning a document. I went through it with the A-type service manual, and managed to turn a 32 page document into a 2.6 Mb PDF. But I won't be doing it again any time soon ! Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 15 22:36:40 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 21:36:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] bottom trunnion grease fitting size? In-Reply-To: <00ee01c8cf62$ffcfeb20$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080616043640.CUOD7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > The driver's side brass truunion is missing it's bottom > grease fitting. I was hoping it would be an easy replacement > as I had several sizes of fittings in my shop. None of them > 'caught' any kind of thread or anything, but, a fine threaded > 5/16" bolt seem to come the closest (it didn't really thread either). Paul, I just checked an old trunnion from the junk box, and it took a standard 1/8" NPT grease zerk. If a 1/8 NPT zerk won't thread into your trunnion, then I'd guess it's missing because the threads are stripped. Might be metric I guess, but I've not heard of anyone supplying trunnions that take metric grease fittings (and I'm guessing a 1/8 NPT would go into a M10x1 hole anyway). Offhand I don't see any way to repair them without taking the trunnion off the car, so you can clean it up and try to braze or glue a repair. > I believe this size fitting is also used above the ball joints. ISTR the grease fittings on the ball joints use 1/4-28 threads into the BJ, rather than the 1/8 NPT. Randall From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 16 06:43:56 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 05:43:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based on the fact that my Miata runs on regular with that compression ratio - it will ping a tiny bit under hard acceleration UNLESS I'm using E10 gasoline. Never pings with mid-range or hi octane gas. Raymond --- On Fri, 6/13/08, Foster, Stan wrote: > From: Foster, Stan > Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression boost > To: "Alan Salvatore" , "triumphs at autox.team.net" , "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Date: Friday, June 13, 2008, 10:08 PM > My understanding is that you can go at least as high as > 9.5:1 or perhaps 9.6:1 > and still be fine on regular gas. At least I hope so, I had > my head and block > machined for 9.6:1 based on that assumption. It would not > ruin my whole day if > I had use a higher octane however. > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Alan > Salvatore > Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 10:56 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack > Subject: [6pack] Compression boost > > I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor. > I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum > flywheel. > I couldn't decide what to do with the head. I just > left it at the machine > shop and am going to have it milled for > 9 to 1 compression. > The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it > ran on regular gas. > Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas > requirement; > or if I just should have bumped the compression even > higher. > > Al From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 16 06:59:12 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 05:59:12 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080616125913.FIQP7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based on the fact > that my Miata runs on regular with that compression ratio - Well, don't be too surprised if it works out differently on your TR6. There's a lot more to octane requirement besides compression ratio; including combustion chamber shape and even head material (aluminum heads like the Miata can take more compression). Randall From v6spitfireguy at cox.net Mon Jun 16 07:26:47 2008 From: v6spitfireguy at cox.net (v6spitfireguy at cox.net) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 09:26:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tires for our cars - sigh, again Message-ID: <380-220086116132647113@M2W029.mail2web.com> Listers, Here we go again - sometimes it get so frustrating - It is now time to replace the worn out tires on my Spitfire, and as with so many other things associated with our cars  I am finding it increasingly difficult to find the size I want. I currently have Sumitomo, 205/60 R13, which are OK. and replaced the BFG tires of the same size which are no longer available, which I really liked. Now it seems, unless you want to put wide rubber bands on 30 inch rims, these sizes are becoming obsolete. I personally DO NOT like the look of 40 and lower series tires on anything older than 1990 vehicles  and I don't care for the look of even 50 series tires on our cars. So my options now so far are, I may be able to order what is left of the Sumitomo if I can find them,  Or if not those, either these, Nankang-Tires XR611 205/60 R13 (never heard of them), or the Cooper 205/60r 13. Toyo are really too expensive at around 130 a tire -- Anybody have any experience with Cooper tires  good or bad? Barry Schwartz La Mesa(San Diego), CA P.S. I'm going to run out to a couple of stores locally that are "suppose" to have some of the tires I have listed, but I am NOT optimistic that they actually have any - Wish me luck - -------------------------------------------------------------------- myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Mon Jun 16 07:58:26 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 06:58:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] Tires for our cars - sigh, again In-Reply-To: <380-220086116132647113@M2W029.mail2web.com> References: <380-220086116132647113@M2W029.mail2web.com> Message-ID: FWIW -- I've had a set of Coopers on the TR3A for a couple of years now and like them fine (though of course they are now NLA in that size). Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Anybody have any experience with Cooper tires  good or bad? > > > Barry Schwartz From spitlist at cox.net Mon Jun 16 08:09:36 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 07:09:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Spits] Tires for our cars - sigh, again References: <380-220086116132647113@M2W029.mail2web.com> Message-ID: <000b01c8cfba$9c49ad40$2d02a8c0@Belkin> I have used Cooper Sport Radial tires and find that they are pretty good. I would not shy away from them at all. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 6:26 AM Subject: [Spits] Tires for our cars - sigh, again > Listers, > > Here we go again - sometimes it get so frustrating - > > It is now time to replace the worn out tires on my Spitfire, and as with > so many other things associated with our cars  I am finding it > increasingly difficult to find the size I want. I currently have Sumitomo, > 205/60 R13, which are OK. and replaced the BFG tires of the same size which > are no longer available, which I really liked. > > Now it seems, unless you want to put wide rubber bands on 30 inch rims, > these sizes are becoming obsolete. I personally DO NOT like the look of > 40 and lower series tires on anything older than 1990 vehicles  and I > don't care for the look of even 50 series tires on our cars. > > So my options now so far are, I may be able to order what is left of the > Sumitomo if I can find them,  Or if not those, either these, > Nankang-Tires XR611 205/60 R13 (never heard of them), or the Cooper 205/60r > 13. Toyo are really too expensive at around 130 a tire -- > > Anybody have any experience with Cooper tires  good or bad? > > > Barry Schwartz > La Mesa(San Diego), CA > > > P.S. > I'm going to run out to a couple of stores locally that are "suppose" to > have some of the tires I have listed, but I am NOT optimistic that they > actually have any - > Wish me luck - > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------- > myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft. Windows. and Linux web and application > hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Spitfires at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/spitfires > > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jun 16 08:18:42 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:18:42 +0000 Subject: [TR] oil cooler line gone! Message-ID: <061620081418.21660.4856764200072C1A0000549C22120592149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > The SS braid offers more abrasion resistance; but still the secret is to > avoid the abrasion in the first place. Good advice. I have found that if a hose rubs in particular place, I can put a very heavy cable tie around the hose so the cable tie does the rubbing. The tie is quite hard and smooth, and takes the abuse quite well. Larger areas can get covered with the corrugated plastic stuff used for wire bundling in cars. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Jun 16 08:35:42 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:35:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: References: <001b01c8ce5f$4c1579f0$59449e18@alan> Message-ID: On Sat, 14 Jun 2008, Scott Tilton wrote: > Isn't there a source for extra thick head gaskets? Even made to order > thickness so that someone could lower their compression ratio (slightly) if > they wanted to? www.gasketworks.com they can make anything (pretty much) in several materials (copper and steel are two). You could lower your compression a LOT if you needed to. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Jun 16 08:50:06 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:50:06 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost Message-ID: <061620081450.10462.48567D9E000904F5000028DE2207001641970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based on the fact > > that my Miata runs on regular with that compression ratio - > > Well, don't be too surprised if it works out differently on your TR6. > There's a lot more to octane requirement besides compression ratio; > including combustion chamber shape and even head material (aluminum heads > like the Miata can take more compression). You might also want to check to see if the Miata has a knock sensor. If it does, it senses pinging that the ear can't hear, and then retards the timing to eliminate the pinging. You certainly won't have one of those in your TR. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 16 11:06:45 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:06:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <20080616125913.FIQP7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <349476.60445.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Good point Randall, and one that I'm trying to take into consideration. Obviously, no decision is final until the head gets milled! --- On Mon, 6/16/08, Randall wrote: > From: Randall > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, June 16, 2008, 7:59 AM > > I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based on the > fact > > that my Miata runs on regular with that compression > ratio - > > Well, don't be too surprised if it works out > differently on your TR6. > There's a lot more to octane requirement besides > compression ratio; > including combustion chamber shape and even head material > (aluminum heads > like the Miata can take more compression). > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as iron_horse819 at yahoo.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 16 11:09:06 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:09:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <061620081450.10462.48567D9E000904F5000028DE2207001641970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <63127.60731.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Maybe, and maybe not :) Since I'm planning on fuel-injecting the engine at some point, I have been considering adding a knock sensor to the engine. Obviously, I really need to sudy on how to make that work correctly. --- On Mon, 6/16/08, emanteno at comcast.net wrote: > From: emanteno at comcast.net > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost > To: "Randall" , triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Monday, June 16, 2008, 9:50 AM > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: "Randall" > > > > I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based > on the fact > > > that my Miata runs on regular with that > compression ratio - > > > > Well, don't be too surprised if it works out > differently on your TR6. > > There's a lot more to octane requirement besides > compression ratio; > > including combustion chamber shape and even head > material (aluminum heads > > like the Miata can take more compression). > > You might also want to check to see if the Miata has a > knock sensor. If it does, it senses pinging that the ear > can't hear, and then retards the timing to eliminate > the pinging. You certainly won't have one of those in > your TR. > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL From cak at dimebank.com Mon Jun 16 11:36:05 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:36:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] bottom trunnion grease fitting size? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4856A485.9090607@dimebank.com> There's a good chance that if this is an original trunnion, the fitting is a BSP (British Straight Pipe) thread. That's certainly the case for the grease fitting on the TR4A-6 steering rack. The Roadster Factory probably has the part you need. From cak at dimebank.com Mon Jun 16 11:37:43 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:37:43 -0700 Subject: [TR] oil cooler line gone! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4856A4E7.20502@dimebank.com> > The SS braid offers more abrasion resistance; and may cause its own abrasion damage! SS lines should be wrapped - I like to use the spiral wrap that is used to bundle modern wiring harnesses, available in many sizes and colors. From steven at newellboys.net Mon Jun 16 11:48:13 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 11:48:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] FS TR4 project or parts: Denver, CO USA Message-ID: <4856A75D.9040102@newellboys.net> After three years of not starting to work on the project TR4 in my garage, I'm ready to sell it whole or in parts. My daily driver would look a lot nicer with the new interior and wheels the sale could fund -- and my wife's new-to-her '87 BMW 535is would look nicer in the garage at night. As a project, it's rust free, complete and ready for prep and paint. The engine was rebuilt by the PO and I drove it into my garage when I bought it. Soft rubber bits are a decade or two old so you'd need to re-restore bushings. Needs new interior, otherwise complete and what they call an "easy restoration". Presumably they forget to add "for someone else"? Based on the hidden body tag clue (Nick Wolfe) I believe it's a '64 rather than an early TR4. I'd want around $4K complete but I doubt I'll get it, so I'm inclined to part it. It could be a great source to restore your treasured car. I'd sell the rolling chassis and rust free tub as one piece, sans engine and transmission. Three of four wings are perfect in primer, ready to paint. Bonnet and bootlid great also. Complete trim and gauges for eBay. And plenty of goodies for me to keep to help maintain my daily driver for years to come. Drop me an email if you want more info or need specific parts. Steven Newell Littleton, CO USA From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Jun 16 12:52:34 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 11:52:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] bottom trunnion grease fitting size? In-Reply-To: <4856A485.9090607@dimebank.com> Message-ID: <20080616185234.NMCN9879.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > There's a good chance that if this is an original trunnion, > the fitting is a BSP (British Straight Pipe) thread. Nope, the TR3 fittings are definitely tapered threads. 1/8 BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered) is close enough that they might interchange to some extent (.021" smaller and 28 tpi instead of 27); but the one I checked was definitely NPT. Randall From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Jun 16 15:59:57 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 15:59:57 -0600 Subject: [TR] FS TR4 project or parts: Denver, CO USA In-Reply-To: <4856A75D.9040102@newellboys.net> References: <4856A75D.9040102@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <4856E25D.3040308@tscusa.org> Steven Newell wrote: > After three years of not starting to work on the project TR4 in my > garage, I'm ready to sell it whole or in parts. > Drop me an email if you want more info or need specific parts. > > Steven Newell > Littleton, CO USA > Hey Steven, Maybe contact Paul at Sports Car Craftsmen in Arvada Colorado, let him know you have a TR4 project car. I was just there today and they have a great facility. Lots of folks go visit and call Paul looking for project cars and Paul might have some ideas for you on selling. Sports Car Craftsmen 5635 Kendall Ct Arvada, CO 80002 303-422-9272 -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 16 16:03:03 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:03:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] caliper mounting hole freakness? Message-ID: <001601c8cffc$c07747d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I just had a baffling problem: I can't completely tighten one particular bolt on one of my brake calipers???? /////////////////// Seems like I would have seen this problem before now, I mean I've had the caliper unit off several times, and both mounting bolts are new from Moss and are the right ones and are exactly just alike. The problem is seen this way: The bolt travels thru the dust shield, the 'alligator-eyes-looking' brake caliper mounting holes and lastly they screw into the vertical link. New bolts were obtained as length of bolts is critical. It's almost like it requires some sort of 'distance-piece' to enable the top bolt to go thru completely. Has anyone else had this happen? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 690 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From fishplate at charter.net Mon Jun 16 16:11:42 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:11:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20080616221135.YKQS4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> At 08:43 AM 6/16/2008, Raymond Hatfield wrote: >I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based on the fact that my >Miata runs on regular with that compression ratio - it will ping a >tiny bit under hard acceleration UNLESS I'm using E10 >gasoline. Never pings with mid-range or hi octane gas. Yes, but doesn't your Miata have a knock sensor that retards the timing upon detecting a ping? From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Jun 16 17:04:17 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 17:04:17 -0600 Subject: [TR] Going Off List for a while Message-ID: <4856F171.7020504@tscusa.org> Hi All, I am going to be going off the lists starting the 20th of June as I transition into a new job. I need to do this because I have over 1000 emails in my Triumph inbox that I have not read, over 400 in the Triumph Stag inbox, so they are all going for the preemptive delete this Friday. However, my Triumph related email addresses will not change and I will be checking emails at least on the weekends, so keep in touch. Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity Drive Status will be updated at least monthly on the TTA site http://www.triumphstransamerica.org.uk Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) http://www.triumphstransamerica.org.uk The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jun 16 18:02:26 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:02:26 -0400 Subject: [TR] caliper mounting hole freakness? In-Reply-To: <001601c8cffc$c07747d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <001601c8cffc$c07747d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000e01c8d00d$6f4e64e0$210110ac@bobspc> Paul, I had a similar problem when I mounted my rebuilt calipers this winter. I went and looked at the pictures I took and discovered that I forgot to put the split washers back on. Problem solved. Do TR3s have any kind of required washer? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 6:03 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] caliper mounting hole freakness? List, I just had a baffling problem: I can't completely tighten one particular bolt on one of my brake calipers???? /////////////////// Seems like I would have seen this problem before now, I mean I've had the caliper unit off several times, and both mounting bolts are new from Moss and are the right ones and are exactly just alike. The problem is seen this way: The bolt travels thru the dust shield, the 'alligator-eyes-looking' brake caliper mounting holes and lastly they screw into the vertical link. New bolts were obtained as length of bolts is critical. It's almost like it requires some sort of 'distance-piece' to enable the top bolt to go thru completely. Has anyone else had this happen? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 690 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1504 - Release Date: 6/15/2008 5:52 PM From mtgaines at mail.presby.edu Mon Jun 16 18:27:41 2008 From: mtgaines at mail.presby.edu (Tim Gaines) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:27:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] was that our Sujit Roy on Jeopardy? Message-ID: Just watched Jeopardy on tv and there was a contestant named Sujit Roy. Was that our Sujit Roy? Tim From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jun 16 18:47:24 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:47:24 -0400 Subject: [TR] was that our Sujit Roy on Jeopardy? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002501c8d013$b74f1b30$210110ac@bobspc> I'll take Price of Darkness for $500 Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tim Gaines Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 8:28 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] was that our Sujit Roy on Jeopardy? Just watched Jeopardy on tv and there was a contestant named Sujit Roy. Was that our Sujit Roy? Tim This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1504 - Release Date: 6/15/2008 5:52 PM From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jun 16 19:07:28 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:07:28 EDT Subject: [TR] oil cooler line gone! Message-ID: After this thread I am going to Autozone and getting some hose with an ID that is similar or the same as the OD on the stainless, cut a short piece, slit it and put it in place for protection. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Mon Jun 16 19:27:50 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 20:27:50 -0500 Subject: [TR] Tires for our cars - sigh, again In-Reply-To: <380-220086116132647113@M2W029.mail2web.com> References: <380-220086116132647113@M2W029.mail2web.com> Message-ID: "unless you want to put wide rubber bands on 30 inch rims" I've been trying to picture this... I'm going to go lie down before I get sick. Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves! From jimmuller at rcn.com Mon Jun 16 21:46:59 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 23:46:59 -0400 Subject: [TR] was that our Sujit Roy on Jeopardy? In-Reply-To: <002501c8d013$b74f1b30$210110ac@bobspc> References: Message-ID: <4856FB73.6482.1532E3EF@localhost> On 16 Jun 2008 at 20:47, Bob Danielson wrote: > I'll take Price of Darkness for $500 Can I buy an 'n'? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jun 16 22:20:50 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 04:20:50 +0000 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <349476.60445.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <20080616125913.FIQP7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> <349476.60445.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Before milling the head you might polish th combustion chambers and CC them. This will remove hot spots and balance the chambers. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Its easy to add contacts from Facebook and other social sites through Windows Live Messenger. Learn how. https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_LearnHow From acs25m at swbell.net Mon Jun 16 22:53:25 2008 From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net) Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:53:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] was that our Sujit Roy on Jeopardy? Message-ID: <316890.18528.qm@web81603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I'd like an E please! From patton at suscom-maine.net Mon Jun 16 23:58:05 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 01:58:05 -0400 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <20080616221135.YKQS4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: I have a knock sensor on my fuel injected supercharged TR6. It's mounted near where the ignition coil once lived but is now disabled. It was very effective at retarding the timing but because these solid lifter engines are so noisy it was far too sensitive. Even tuning it's sensitivity back it would often retard the timing way too far causing the engine to stumble. Maybe someday I'll look into trying it again, perhaps on the other side of the engine away from the valve train would work a tad better? As it is now the engine is 7.75:1 running high test gas with up to 8.5LBS of boost and timing at times is as far out as 34 degrees and no pinging. Without boost it would run out to 36 degrees but I worried about burning a piston and chickened out setting it back to 34 max. Rick Patton 75TR6sci rick at pattonmachine.com > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On > Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough > Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 6:12 PM > To: Raymond Hatfield; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost >snip >gasoline. Never pings with mid-range or hi octane gas. > > Yes, but doesn't your Miata have a knock sensor that retards the > timing upon detecting a ping? From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 17 00:17:54 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 00:17:54 -0600 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <061620081450.10462.48567D9E000904F5000028DE2207001641970A9D010507@comcast.net> References: <061620081450.10462.48567D9E000904F5000028DE2207001641970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <006b01c8d041$e1dba8e0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Would anyone mind backing up a couple of steps just to explain how to determine the compression ratio? I know what it is, but do you fill the cylinder with liquid at BDC and measure how much come out at TDC? As part of the current re-build we are milling the head just enough to true it up, I know this will raise compression a little, but how much and how do you measure? Thx, Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of emanteno at comcast.net Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 8:50 AM To: Randall; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Randall" > > I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based on the fact that my > > Miata runs on regular with that compression ratio - > > Well, don't be too surprised if it works out differently on your TR6. > There's a lot more to octane requirement besides compression ratio; > including combustion chamber shape and even head material (aluminum > heads like the Miata can take more compression). You might also want to check to see if the Miata has a knock sensor. If it does, it senses pinging that the ear can't hear, and then retards the timing to eliminate the pinging. You certainly won't have one of those in your TR. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jun 17 04:47:13 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 06:47:13 EDT Subject: [TR] was that our Sujit Roy on Jeopardy? Message-ID: In a message dated 6/16/2008 10:48:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, jimmuller at rcn.com writes: > I'll take Price of Darkness for $500 Can I buy an 'n'? I don't watch TV at all and even I know that is the wrong show. I believe it should be "What is free?, Alex" David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 17 05:21:56 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 04:21:56 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: <006b01c8d041$e1dba8e0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080617112156.EVJZ20096.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Would anyone mind backing up a couple of steps just to > explain how to determine the compression ratio? I know what > it is, but do you fill the cylinder with liquid at BDC and > measure how much come out at TDC? Ok, so you know compression ratio is (swept volume + unswept volume) / (unswept volume). Generally, I compute swept volume as (stroke * bore * bore * .7854). Your method would work, but it's easier to measure bore and stroke than volume (and usually it's safe enough using advertised stroke instead of having to measure it). Be sure to keep your units straight; easiest IMO is to convert all the linear measurements to centimeters before multiplying, so the results come out in cubic centimeters. Unswept volume is the tricky one, usually involving messy liquids and so on. There are 3 pieces to add together : volume of the combustion chamber in the head, volume enclosed by the head gasket, and a correction for any difference between the piston surface and the block surface at TDC (aka deck clearance). On some engines you also need to account for the shape of the top of the piston, but most TRactor motor pistons are flat so no need to worry about that here. Here's a nice diagram I Googled just now, for deck clearance (which may be negative but for most TRactor motors should be close to zero) : http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/14/102/article/Determining_Compressio n_Ratio.html and a nice set of instructions on how to "cc" the combustion chamber : http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/14/102/article/Determining_Compressio n_Ratio.html Head gasket volume is gasket height * bore * bore * .7854 ... you can assume the stock head gasket crushes to about .060" or about 0.15 cm; so for 8.7cm liners, it's only about 9cc. In case anyone is wondering where .7854 came from, remember that the formula for the area of a circle is 3.141592 (aka Pi) times the radius squared. But in the formulas above, I've used the diameter, which is twice the radius. So, .7854 is an approximation of Pi/4. Feel free to use whatever your calculator gives you for Pi/4 ... on this one, it's actually 0.78539816339744830961566084581988 but .7854 is a lot easier to type and is close enough. All clear as mud ? Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Tue Jun 17 06:37:28 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 08:37:28 EDT Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost Message-ID: In a message dated 6/17/2008 12:57:54 AM Central Daylight Time, patton at suscom-maine.net writes: > I have a knock sensor on my fuel injected supercharged TR6. It's mounted > near where the ignition coil once lived but is now disabled. It was very > effective at retarding the timing but because these solid lifter engines are > so noisy it was far too sensitive. Even tuning it's sensitivity back it > would often retard the timing way too far causing the engine to stumble. > I seem to recall reading that knock sensors are far from trivial and that much signal processing and FFT's are required for effective implementation. If so, transplanting a knock sensor tuned for one engine onto a drastically different engine (inline six vs V6, solid lifter vs hydraulic, etc) is unlikely to be fully successful. Dave From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Jun 17 10:45:45 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 09:45:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] brake-line failure bulb TR6 Message-ID: <006001c8d099$96cb03c0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> TR6 brake-line failure bulb out. Can this bulb be replaced without dropping the dashboard? I see the bezel will unscrew, I am concerned about ass'y dropping back. Regards, Bob From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 17 10:41:09 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 09:41:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080617164109.DZBA5514.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > I seem to recall reading that knock sensors are far from > trivial and that much signal processing and FFT's are > required for effective implementation. If so, transplanting > a knock sensor tuned for one engine onto a drastically > different engine (inline six vs V6, solid lifter vs > hydraulic, etc) is unlikely to be fully successful. I've read much the same thing. Article I saw talked about the "knock signature" being different for every engine. Apparently they don't do the tuning in the sensor (which is basically just a microphone) but in the attached computer/DSP. The more advanced ones also use a sliding window algorithm that tracks the crank angles where knock is likely to occur, and compares sound within the window to sound outside the window; in certain frequency band(s). Here's a chip that implements the simpler version : http://focus.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpic8101.pdf Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Tue Jun 17 12:30:44 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 14:30:44 -0400 Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint Message-ID: <4857CA94.16056.185BF93D@localhost> Some advice please. Are there any tricks to installing a u-joint properly without making a total botch of it? I've done one or two on a driveshaft, but I can't say I did them well or even right at all. They would not finish moving into place without rather too much force, or so it seemed. (Since the driveshaft needed splines and some balancing anyway, I then let a decent driveshaft shop do it right.) Thanks, Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 17 12:39:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:39:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint In-Reply-To: <4857CA94.16056.185BF93D@localhost> Message-ID: <20080617183936.MMQH20096.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > They would not finish moving into place without rather too > much force, or so it seemed. If they get hard to move right at the end, then chances are that you've let one of the rollers fall over and get trapped between the end of the cross and the cap. Only solution at that point is to take it apart again, and use heavier grease (plus more care) to hold the rollers in place. Do NOT increase force applied, as the cups are actually rather fragile and will break. Randall From spitlist at cox.net Tue Jun 17 12:53:17 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 11:53:17 -0700 Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint References: <4857CA94.16056.185BF93D@localhost> Message-ID: <001b01c8d0ac$19f38080$2d02a8c0@Belkin> One thing that I always do is put some stiff grease (axle grease works fine) in thecups to hold the needle bearings in place so they do not fall out of the outer perimeter amd not fall down in the center preventing the cup from going all the way onto the joint. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 11:30 AM Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint > Some advice please. Are there any tricks to installing a u-joint > properly without making a total botch of it? I've done one or two on > a driveshaft, but I can't say I did them well or even right at all. > They would not finish moving into place without rather too much > force, or so it seemed. (Since the driveshaft needed splines and > some balancing anyway, I then let a decent driveshaft shop do it > right.) > > Thanks, > > Jim Muller > jimmuller at rcn.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From goh56agan at comcast.net Tue Jun 17 15:21:28 2008 From: goh56agan at comcast.net (goh56agan at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:21:28 +0000 Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings Message-ID: <061720082121.29253.48582AD80005AA3F000072452216566276020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> List, Any advice on how to remove and replace the inner bushings on a TR4 steering column? I've tried tapping them out with a dowel but I,m not making much progress. Do the replacements go in any easier? Thanks. Gary O From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jun 17 16:07:49 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 18:07:49 EDT Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint Message-ID: Jim, This is the way I do it and it goes rather well and rather quickly. First I give a soaking of PB Blaster to minimize the pounding as much as possible. I put a large (1 1/16) socket on the floor to drive the cap into and use a smaller (3/4 ?) socket to drive the opposing cap toward the socket on the floor. Once it goes all the way so it can't go forward any more, I flip it over and put a cold chisel in the cross of the spider and drive it the other way. I flip it back over again and put a 1/8 drift past the end of the spider into the cap and drive the cap out. Do it again on the other one and the whole thing just falls apart. After vices and presses and cursing I found this to be the best for me and I can change a U Joint in about 6 minutes. When you reassemble do not just go and drive everything home. Use the suggested grease methods for holding in the rollers, but as you start to seat the caps, take a break and check the joint for free play. Only seat the caps enough to get the rings in, no more. If when you are done the joint is stiff, you have driven it too much together and should loosen it. I have found the holding in the hand and tapping on the yoke technique will free it up. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 17 19:09:47 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:09:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings In-Reply-To: <061720082121.29253.48582AD80005AA3F000072452216566276020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> References: <061720082121.29253.48582AD80005AA3F000072452216566276020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002301c8d0e0$01e0a390$210110ac@bobspc> Gary, The easiest way is to NOT remove them but to install Art Lipp's Delrin bushings (http://www.trparts.com/newitems/column.html) right over them. You can buy just the bushings from him for $25 or he'll rebuild your whole column for $80. I went the bushing route on my TR6 over the winter. You can see the process here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of goh56agan at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 5:21 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings List, Any advice on how to remove and replace the inner bushings on a TR4 steering column? I've tried tapping them out with a dowel but I,m not making much progress. Do the replacements go in any easier? Thanks. Gary O This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1505 - Release Date: 6/16/2008 7:20 AM From wbeech at flash.net Tue Jun 17 20:52:06 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 20:52:06 -0600 Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004101c8d0ee$4c4a22e0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Jim, I do it much the same as David, but I do use the vise with the sockets. One thing I found that was particularly helpful last week as I replaced one of my driveshaft u-joints was to use my brake cylinder hone with some PB Blaster as lubricant and smooth everything out before beginning the reassembly. Works like a charm, everything slides together with a minimum of pressure. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:08 PM To: jimmuller at rcn.com; Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] installing a u-joint Jim, This is the way I do it and it goes rather well and rather quickly. First I give a soaking of PB Blaster to minimize the pounding as much as possible. I put a large (1 1/16) socket on the floor to drive the cap into and use a smaller (3/4 ?) socket to drive the opposing cap toward the socket on the floor. Once it goes all the way so it can't go forward any more, I flip it over and put a cold chisel in the cross of the spider and drive it the other way. I flip it back over again and put a 1/8 drift past the end of the spider into the cap and drive the cap out. Do it again on the other one and the whole thing just falls apart. After vices and presses and cursing I found this to be the best for me and I can change a U Joint in about 6 minutes. When you reassemble do not just go and drive everything home. Use the suggested grease methods for holding in the rollers, but as you start to seat the caps, take a break and check the joint for free play. Only seat the caps enough to get the rings in, no more. If when you are done the joint is stiff, you have driven it too much together and should loosen it. I have found the holding in the hand and tapping on the yoke technique will free it up. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 17 22:18:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:18:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings In-Reply-To: <061720082121.29253.48582AD80005AA3F000072452216566276020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080618041847.TSWO28655.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > Any advice on how to remove and replace the inner bushings on > a TR4 steering column? Never done a TR4 myself, but from the Bentley they look to be the same rubber/steel/nylon things used in the later TR3/A/B columns. You just need more force to drive them out; like a big length of iron water pipe. > Do the replacements go in any easier? Yes, lots. Basically when removing them, you have to shear off the rubber 'pegs' that hold them in place. (At least that seemed to be the easiest way to remove the ones on my TR3A.) But then you can compress the pegs when installing the new ones, and they will slip through the tube until they pop out through their holes. A little dish soap or silicone spray will help too (but really isn't necessary). Randall From pethier at comcast.net Tue Jun 17 22:27:30 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 04:27:30 +0000 Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings Message-ID: <061820080427.3660.48588EB200088FEF00000E4C22155751149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Since i repaired the ground path on my TR4 steering column, the horn works. Of course now it beeps by itself now and again. Common bushing problem, or something else? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Randall" > > Any advice on how to remove and replace the inner bushings on > > a TR4 steering column? > > Never done a TR4 myself, but from the Bentley they look to be the same > rubber/steel/nylon things used in the later TR3/A/B columns. You just need > more force to drive them out; like a big length of iron water pipe. From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Tue Jun 17 22:34:02 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 00:34:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) Message-ID: <004901c8d0fc$89b5ace0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> A crude but very usable copy of "More BS about TR's" by Bob Schaller is available at: www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TRworkshop.pdf This booklet is oriented to the TR3. Bob Schaller was very well respected and many people speak highly of this manual. It was his wish to share this knowledge with others and would even do so by handing out this manual at TR meetings. Some folks on this list knew him well, I wished I had. However, we can still learn from him. I know some of these suggestions might not necessarily benefit all TR3's. "YMMV". I apologize for pages that are difficult to read and if there's some words missing, I'll be glad to find out what they are... just email me. The printing store was told to make it small enough to email, however, it turned out to be way to big at 25.1 MB! I am very pleased that Tony Gordon offered to put it up at his site, provided I ftp the large version to him. Tony told me that he may have a smaller version of this booklet available by the weekend. I am unsure what, how long, or if any other changes will result from this 'slimming down' procedure. I am just thankful to Tony. But, of course, the biggest tribute for this work belongs to it's author: the late Bob Schaller. Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 698 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Wed Jun 18 05:06:00 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:06:00 +0000 Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings In-Reply-To: <061720082121.29253.48582AD80005AA3F000072452216566276020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> References: <061720082121.29253.48582AD80005AA3F000072452216566276020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Message-ID: > Any advice on how to remove and replace the inner bushings on a TR4 steering > column? Put a drift punch on the rubber locking button of the old bushings and use a BFH to collapse them. Then use a wood dowel to drive them out of the column. When installing the new bushings begin with the locking buttons aligned with their respective holes. Then tap them into position with a wood dowel of the same outside diameter as the bushings. You may have to massage them back and forth a little to align the buttons and holes. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ The other season of giving begins 6/24/08. Check out the im Talkathon. http://www.imtalkathon.com?source=TXT_EML_WLH_SeasonOfGiving From jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com Wed Jun 18 06:07:59 2008 From: jeyoung_2 at yahoo.com (John Young) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 05:07:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) In-Reply-To: <004901c8d0fc$89b5ace0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <249183.21648.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> --- dorpaul wrote: > A crude but very usable copy of "More BS about TR's" > by Bob Schaller is > available at: > www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TRworkshop.pdf > This book is available from TRF. That's where I bought my copy. I just looked it up and found this Part number RFP128 status current price $16.95 John Young NASS# 528 Indiana '66 Spitfire '59 TR3A (needs body work) '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway. From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jun 18 07:14:09 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:14:09 -0400 Subject: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) In-Reply-To: <249183.21648.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <249183.21648.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F1580F777DB4E4180B620988B802AAB@CarlPC> Paul / Tony - Are you sure that posting/hosting this file isn't infringing on copyright laws? Although I (and others I am sure) appreciate the intent - I'd hate to see you hit with some hefty fines. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Young" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 8:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) > --- dorpaul wrote: > >> A crude but very usable copy of "More BS about TR's" >> by Bob Schaller is >> available at: >> www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TRworkshop.pdf >> > This book is available from TRF. That's where I bought > my copy. I just looked it up and found this > > Part number RFP128 > status current > price $16.95 > > John Young NASS# 528 > Indiana > '66 Spitfire > '59 TR3A (needs body work) > '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jun 18 08:58:32 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 08:58:32 -0600 Subject: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) In-Reply-To: <4F1580F777DB4E4180B620988B802AAB@CarlPC> References: <249183.21648.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4F1580F777DB4E4180B620988B802AAB@CarlPC> Message-ID: <000f01c8d153$ca158d80$6401a8c0@sniffer> My copy has no copyright language on it, my understanding is that Bob used to give these away. If this is all correct, I find it interesting that TRF get $16.95 a copy. Maybe they bought the rights somewhere along the way from his estate? Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl TR Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 7:14 AM To: list Triumph Subject: Re: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) Paul / Tony - Are you sure that posting/hosting this file isn't infringing on copyright laws? Although I (and others I am sure) appreciate the intent - I'd hate to see you hit with some hefty fines. Carl ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Young" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 8:07 AM Subject: Re: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) > --- dorpaul wrote: > >> A crude but very usable copy of "More BS about TR's" >> by Bob Schaller is >> available at: >> www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TRworkshop.pdf >> > This book is available from TRF. That's where I bought > my copy. I just looked it up and found this > > Part number RFP128 > status current > price $16.95 > > John Young NASS# 528 > Indiana > '66 Spitfire > '59 TR3A (needs body work) > '59 TR10 ruuning, but not ready for the highway. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From twakeman at razzolink.com Wed Jun 18 09:12:27 2008 From: twakeman at razzolink.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 08:12:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) In-Reply-To: <000f01c8d153$ca158d80$6401a8c0@sniffer> References: <249183.21648.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4F1580F777DB4E4180B620988B802AAB@CarlPC> <000f01c8d153$ca158d80$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <485925DB.60806@razzolink.com> wbeech wrote: > My copy has no copyright language on it, my understanding is that Bob used > to give these away. > > If this is all correct, I find it interesting that TRF get $16.95 a copy. > > Maybe because it cost money to have the pages copied, collated and assembled. And there are other costs like handling, inventory related, assorted business running costs. And rumor has it that the business is trying to make a profit. They need operating money to put other parts of the shelves. No one says you have to buy one Teriann From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 18 09:15:10 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 08:15:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) In-Reply-To: <000f01c8d153$ca158d80$6401a8c0@sniffer> Message-ID: <20080618151510.PAEM27427.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > If this is all correct, I find it interesting that TRF get > $16.95 a copy. > Maybe they bought the rights somewhere along the way from his estate? Possibly, but not necessarily. Copies of works in the public domain can be sold for whatever people will pay you for them. Randall From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jun 18 09:29:13 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:29:13 -0600 Subject: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) In-Reply-To: <485925DB.60806@razzolink.com> References: <249183.21648.qm@web81401.mail.mud.yahoo.com><4F1580F777DB4E4180B620988B802AAB@CarlPC><000f01c8d153$ca158d80$6401a8c0@sniffer> <485925DB.60806@razzolink.com> Message-ID: <001701c8d158$11ecd4c0$6401a8c0@sniffer> You're right, but $17 sounds little steep for a 40 page booklet. If it indeed cost them nothing in licensing/copyright fees this would be an item that could be posted for download as a service to their customers... You and me. B -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn Wakeman Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 9:12 AM To: Triumph List Subject: Re: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) wbeech wrote: > My copy has no copyright language on it, my understanding is that Bob > used to give these away. > > If this is all correct, I find it interesting that TRF get $16.95 a copy. > > Maybe because it cost money to have the pages copied, collated and assembled. And there are other costs like handling, inventory related, assorted business running costs. And rumor has it that the business is trying to make a profit. They need operating money to put other parts of the shelves. No one says you have to buy one Teriann This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From AA00727 at aol.com Wed Jun 18 09:44:36 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:44:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Will these wheels really work on a Spitfire Message-ID: A friend has two sets of wheels for sale that were made for Formula Ford racers but he thinks they might be suitable for a spitfire. We're not sure because there is a difference in the offset between the two pairs in each four wheel set. Could anyone tell me if these wheels would work on a Spitfire. If not we will want to change the ad. Here is the info- Two sets of 4 Light weight, multi-piece,Formula Ford racing wheels, 13" four bolt pattern, 3 & 1/2" center to center, made in England. Might also be used on other 13" applications like a Triumph Spitfire. Set # 1 = 8 lbs each, Silver color, back set from mounting surface to inner edge of rim- two = 2 & 11/16", two = 3 & 7/8". Set # 2 = The yellow set, 11 lbs each, back set two = 3 & 5/8", other two = 3 & 5/8". One rim has small dent on inner rim. Still very usable. We don't want to mislead anyone into thinking these would work on their car if they actually wouldn't be good, so a little help from the more knowledgeable would be appreciated! Thanks! Gary in WI **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From flashtr3 at cox.net Tue Jun 17 09:48:58 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 08:48:58 -0700 Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings References: <061820080427.3660.48588EB200088FEF00000E4C22155751149D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <004601c8d091$a7fe10e0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Your horn beeping intermittent I suspect, is possibly due to a horn wire the goes through the steering column has some insulation that is worn on the wire and is making contact with ground. You can remove the wire & replace or repair as needed. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: Randall ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 9:27 PM Subject: Re: [TR] steering column inner bushings Since i repaired the ground path on my TR4 steering column, the horn works. Of course now it beeps by itself now and again. Common bushing problem, or something else? -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Randall" > > Any advice on how to remove and replace the inner bushings on > > a TR4 steering column? > > Never done a TR4 myself, but from the Bentley they look to be the same > rubber/steel/nylon things used in the later TR3/A/B columns. You just need > more force to drive them out; like a big length of iron water pipe. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as flashtr3 at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jun 18 10:37:20 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:37:20 +0000 Subject: [TR] Will these wheels really work on a Spitfire Message-ID: <061820081637.3463.485939C00002C36D00000D8722165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> >13" four bolt pattern, 3 & 1/2" center to center, You might want to measure those again. Spitfire uses 3.75" bolt circle. I don't recall ever seeing a 3.5" bolt circle, but I'm no wheel expert. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jun 18 11:09:15 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 17:09:15 +0000 Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings Message-ID: <061820081709.13470.4859413B000C892C0000349E22165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Ibsen Dow" > Your horn beeping intermittent I suspect, is possibly due to a horn wire the > goes through the steering column has some insulation that is worn on the wire > and is making contact with ground. > > You can remove the wire & replace or repair as needed. Can you pull that wire through without disassembling the steering column? When we go to the Back To The Fifties this weekend, we will just pretend to be waving to someone we know! -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pethier at comcast.net Wed Jun 18 11:12:05 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 17:12:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] "MORE BS ABOUT TR's" (now available) Message-ID: <061820081712.23331.485941E5000E2BA500005B2322165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Carl TR" > Paul / Tony - Are you sure that posting/hosting this file isn't infringing > on copyright laws? Although I (and others I am sure) appreciate the > intent - I'd hate to see you hit with some hefty fines. Material is born copyrighted. The entity who would have to bring suit would be Bob's estate or heirs. In this case, Bob set a precedent of distributing the material without charge, so I don't expect there would be an objection to free use. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From rbtr3a at cox.net Wed Jun 18 12:04:57 2008 From: rbtr3a at cox.net (rbtr3a at cox.net) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 14:04:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers Message-ID: <20080618140457.STPN4.160678.imail@eastrmwml06> Do you believe a TR3 could tow a small teardrop trail or? apptox weight would be about <1000lb's. Ronnie Babbitt From cak at dimebank.com Wed Jun 18 12:08:32 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:08:32 -0700 Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48594F20.7070809@dimebank.com> > minimize the pounding as much as possible. Never, ever, ever, EVER pound while installing a U joint. If you're pounding the joint in, you're just going to have to change it again. That's fine if you're stuck on the side of the road, but not doing the job in your garage. I use sockets both as a receiver to support the flange and a driver to push the cup in or out. In my early days of britcar wrenching, I did this in my 4" bench vise; a few years back I finally bought a small arbor press and now use that. If the cup resists smooth motion, it's in cockeyed. Let me say that again: if the cup resists smooth motion, it's in cockeyed. Stop what you're doing, pop the cup out, clean up the bore and get the cup in straight and try again. From triumphstag at gmail.com Wed Jun 18 13:31:45 2008 From: triumphstag at gmail.com (sujit roy) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 12:31:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] was that our Sujit Roy on Jeopardy? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: No! Not me. Sujit On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 5:27 PM, Tim Gaines wrote: > Just watched Jeopardy on tv and there was a contestant > named Sujit Roy. Was that our Sujit Roy? > > Tim > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as triumphstag at gmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Jun 18 14:11:16 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:11:16 EDT Subject: [TR] : TR4 steering column inner bushings Message-ID: Gary, You can force steering column bushes out with a long stick from opposite sides. Then you can double up installation of the 'stock style' rubber/nylon bushes from TRF. With the first 2 bushes shave off the rubber nibs and push into tube PAST the original position on both ends. The second set of bushes install as normal - nibs popping through locator holes in tube. This will result in a very solid feel (keeping the 'rubber dampened' nylon bushes rather than using solid nylontron). Note: the steel shaft probably has wear-down rings in the met al from original bushes. The second set of new bushes will ride on new shaft metal, further eliminating slop, plus probably doubling the life of outer 2 bushes. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 ************** Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From CarlSereda at aol.com Wed Jun 18 14:20:00 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:20:00 EDT Subject: [TR] TR4 steering column inner bushings Message-ID: Phil, Yeah, horn bleeping could be worn steering shaft bushings.. The slop would let your steering wheel sag around a little and the inner collar backside of steering wheel can then touch the horn's brass contact ring inside upper hub. Back in the day I popped the wheel off and slipped a homemade nylon washer in place (carved out of a spray can cap) to block the contacting problem - worked about a decade (and easier than changing worn column bushes!). Regards, Carl plateSince i repaired the ground path on my TR4 steering column, the horn works. Of course now it beeps by itself now and again. Common bushing problem, or something else? ************** Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From areich at telus.net Wed Jun 18 17:45:38 2008 From: areich at telus.net (Allan Reich) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:45:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket Message-ID: <48599E21.4080908@telus.net> I need some more help from the listers! I found the source of my water .. I have two cracks in the block .. where bolt #9 and bolt #10 are in the block. They are small hairline cracks that go from the stud threads to the water jackets, but they are visible to the eye (in fact I have pictures that show the cracks). My questions are: - Can this be repaired with some kind of thread epoxy or ???? - Do I find a another block and swap all my parts over? Allan Reich - Vancouver 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O) From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jun 18 17:53:41 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 19:53:41 EDT Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint Message-ID: The only "pounding" (and that is an overstatement of the third degree) is disassembling. They go together quite easily. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From cak at dimebank.com Wed Jun 18 18:04:23 2008 From: cak at dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 17:04:23 -0700 Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4859A287.5030509@dimebank.com> DLylis at aol.com wrote: > The only "pounding" (and that is an overstatement of the third degree) > is disassembling. They go together quite easily. Ah. Yes, pounding while disassembling is often necessary ... and satisfying! From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jun 18 18:07:23 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 00:07:23 +0000 Subject: [TR] installing a u-joint Message-ID: <061920080007.29276.4859A33B00022BD60000725C22165499769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> I did replace the u-joints in my TR3A when I rebuilt my driveshaft. Went fairly smoothly, got it right, but wanted to be sure about the balance. I do recommend taking the final product to a place that balances driveshafts. In my case, while I had installed the u-joints "okay," the professionals whacked the heck out of them to get them rotating smoothly and welded the frame of a Mack truck onto the shaft as a balance weight. Don't want a shimmy at high speeds if you kick it to a hundred like I did (not so unintentionally) on the way home tonight. Man, I love this car! Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: DLylis at aol.com > The only "pounding" (and that is an overstatement of the third degree) is > disassembling. They go together quite easily. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 18 19:54:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 18:54:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] More on Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket In-Reply-To: <48599E21.4080908@telus.net> Message-ID: <06f301c8d1af$62371c40$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > - Do I find a another block and swap all my parts over? That's what I would do. I'm not saying the one you have couldn't be repaired, but it seems to me that those thread locations have to be weaker than they were before even if you do manage to stop the leak. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Jun 18 20:07:54 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 22:07:54 -0400 Subject: [TR] caliper piston pop-out? Message-ID: <007d01c8d1b1$49833010$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, I rebuilt my caliper brakes relatively recent. Even more recently, while attempting to bleed the entire brake system, I realized I had accidentily left out just one brake pad during the procedure. Of course, the pedal pressure had driven that one piston up against the still rotor (and doing no harm, except it should have contacted a brake pad instead of the rotor.) Fortunatly, by using several screwdrivers and loosening the bleed nipple, the piston traveled back into it's 'pot'. I guess I'm ok since everything works now, but, I wonder if something like the o-ring-like piston rubber would ever get twisted, come out-of-grove or not 'correctly center' itself on the traveling piston if ever this ever reoccurs? Would the piston 'push-out' so far as to establish a leak or take in air? I think the rotors have rarely been 'turned' since they look thick(maybe 5/8" thick). Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 698 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 18 20:21:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 19:21:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers In-Reply-To: <20080618140457.STPN4.160678.imail@eastrmwml06> Message-ID: <06fd01c8d1b3$2f7d6f80$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Do you believe a TR3 could tow a small teardrop trail or? apptox weight > would be about <1000lb's. Not sure what it weighed, but Mike Clemente towed a small teardrop trailer some 1000 miles from SoCA to VTR in Breckenridge CO, through the desert and up the mountains behind his TR4. Didn't set any speed records doing it, but he got there and back in one piece. From the looks of it, had to be close to 1000 lbs. Another friend has been known to tow a small sailboat behind his TR3A. Probably not 1000 lbs, but lots of wind resistance so nearly equivalent IMO. So sure, I don't see why not. All the usual precautions apply of course, get the tongue weight up where it belongs and keep the center of gravity down as low as you can. And get a good, solid connection between the hitch and the frame; don't rely on the body or bumpers to take any weight. Hardest part may be finding a "heavy duty" turn signal flasher (Hint : a Tridon EL 13 should work.) Randall From ccsimonsen at gmail.com Wed Jun 18 21:29:20 2008 From: ccsimonsen at gmail.com (Chris Simonsen ( B )) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 23:29:20 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers In-Reply-To: <06fd01c8d1b3$2f7d6f80$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <20080618140457.STPN4.160678.imail@eastrmwml06> <06fd01c8d1b3$2f7d6f80$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <6fa72a770806182029yefd5f3dmd7b65704bad94616@mail.gmail.com> I'm working on a teardrop trailer for my TR4 right now. I bought the trailer frame from harbor frieght and hope to have it ready for some fall camping!!! My goal is 900 lbs for the trailer - knowing that I willhave another 200 lbs inwater and supplies (and maybe a small TV/DVD player) Please contact me offline if you want to share plans. Chris From wbeech at flash.net Wed Jun 18 21:50:24 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 21:50:24 -0600 Subject: [TR] More on Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket In-Reply-To: <48599E21.4080908@telus.net> References: <48599E21.4080908@telus.net> Message-ID: <001d01c8d1bf$9cd89ee0$6401a8c0@sniffer> I seen it done successfully with J-B Weld. Ideally, strip it down and either replace the block or have it professionally welded for the repair. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan Reich Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 5:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] More on Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket I need some more help from the listers! I found the source of my water .. I have two cracks in the block .. where bolt #9 and bolt #10 are in the block. They are small hairline cracks that go from the stud threads to the water jackets, but they are visible to the eye (in fact I have pictures that show the cracks). My questions are: - Can this be repaired with some kind of thread epoxy or ???? - Do I find a another block and swap all my parts over? Allan Reich - Vancouver 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive From 60TR3A at cox.net Wed Jun 18 22:10:41 2008 From: 60TR3A at cox.net (60TR3A) Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 21:10:41 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770806182029yefd5f3dmd7b65704bad94616@mail.gmail.com> References: <20080618140457.STPN4.160678.imail@eastrmwml06> <06fd01c8d1b3$2f7d6f80$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <6fa72a770806182029yefd5f3dmd7b65704bad94616@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <7BFC2CB7-1526-4D72-BFF3-72207BF645F0@cox.net> I may be confused but when we were doing the last "More BS on TRs" didn't someone post a picture of Bob Schaller with a teardrop trailer attached to his TR3??? On 18 Jun, 2008, at 8:29 PM, Chris Simonsen ( B ) wrote: > I'm working on a teardrop trailer for my TR4 right now. I bought the > trailer frame from harbor frieght and hope to have it ready for some > fall > camping!!! > > My goal is 900 lbs for the trailer - knowing that I willhave another > 200 lbs > inwater and supplies (and maybe a small TV/DVD player) John John A. Wise Glendale, AZ 1960 Triumph TR3A Commission No: TS80422L http://members.cox.net/60tr3a/ http://www.triumphowners.com/876 1977 Porsche 911S http://members.cox.net/porsche911s/ From opposumking at verizon.net Thu Jun 19 03:47:03 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 05:47:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] caliper piston pop-out? References: <007d01c8d1b1$49833010$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <003101c8d1f1$6e5002c0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> >I wonder if something like the o-ring-like piston rubber would ever > get twisted, come out-of-grove or not 'correctly center' itself on the > traveling piston if ever this ever reoccurs? Would the piston 'push-out' > so > far as to establish a leak or take in air? The answer partially depends on the vehicle. If the piston is popped all the way out, air will certainly be introduced. The re-installation of the piston can twist the seal. Otherwise, as long as the piston stays in the bore, the seal will not be twisted. From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Thu Jun 19 08:25:56 2008 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 10:25:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3-4 trunnion pin Message-ID: I had thought that trunnion pins for the 3/4 were available separately and could be pressed in after removing the old one. After checking the catalogs I don't see any. Anyone know if they can be obtained and pressed into an old trunnion which is good except for the pin. Allen TR4 From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Thu Jun 19 09:05:49 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 11:05:49 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers In-Reply-To: <06fd01c8d1b3$2f7d6f80$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <20080618140457.STPN4.160678.imail@eastrmwml06> <06fd01c8d1b3$2f7d6f80$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: > get the tongue weight up where it belongs and keep the center of gravity> down as low as you can. And get a good, solid connection between the hitch> and the frame; don't rely on the body or bumpers to take any weight. And don't forget to make the hitch removable in case you have a flat tire on the car. John H. From opposumking at verizon.net Thu Jun 19 09:24:18 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 11:24:18 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers References: <20080618140457.STPN4.160678.imail@eastrmwml06> Message-ID: <001f01c8d220$8f6693f0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> > Do you believe a TR3 could tow a small teardrop trail or? apptox weight > would be about <1000lb's. I've seen old VW Beetles hauling trailers. Sure, a TR3 can haul one. Beware of excessive trailer weight. Most are pointlessly heavy in a number of areas. You might want to look at motorcycle trailers. They are pretty, lighweight, and frequently kinda expensive. As an example, I've got a motorcycle cargo trailer. It weighs 40 lbs. From kentshrack at yahoo.com Thu Jun 19 09:42:43 2008 From: kentshrack at yahoo.com (Kent Shrack) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 08:42:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <858965.61827.qm@web57811.mail.re3.yahoo.com> A friend of mine from Hutchinson KS made a trailer that he pulled behind his TR3 out of two TR4's. He narrowed the trunk body panels and used part of the frame. I would like to make a trailer our of a TR3. The radius of the Nose/Apron closely matches that of the radius on the rear fenders. the trunk lid could be utilized. There would have to be a transition panel much like a shortend hood between the back of the nose and the front of the rear cowl. Anyone done this? Just an idea. Kent Shrack (aka. TR3 body tub mutilator) TS 78563 o From rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com Thu Jun 19 10:32:59 2008 From: rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com (Rich White) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 11:32:59 -0500 Subject: [TR] =?windows-1256?q?TR3_+_trailers=FE?= Message-ID: Kent, I always though that a TR3 trailer would be fun. I bought some old models from ebay, but have not found the time to cut them up to make a mockup.Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA '63 TR3B TCF587L That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car! See it moves!> Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 08:42:43 -0700> From: kentshrack at yahoo.com> To: triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] (no subject)> > A friend of mine from Hutchinson KS made a trailer that he pulled behind his> TR3 out of two TR4's. He narrowed the trunk body panels and used part of the> frame. I would like to make a trailer our of a TR3. The radius of the> Nose/Apron closely matches that of the radius on the rear fenders. the trunk> lid could be utilized. There would have to be a transition panel much like a> shortend hood between the back of the nose and the front of the rear cowl. > Anyone done this? Just an idea.> > Kent Shrack> (aka. TR3 body tub mutilator)> TS 78563 o> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register> http://www.vtr.org> > > Triumphs at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs> > You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com> > http://www.team.net/archive From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 19 10:33:22 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 16:33:22 +0000 Subject: [TR] (no subject) Message-ID: <061920081633.19458.485A8A520009CAC900004C0222165548869D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> > A friend of mine from Hutchinson KS made a trailer that he pulled behind his > TR3 out of two TR4's. He narrowed the trunk body panels and used part of the > frame. I would like to make a trailer our of a TR3. The radius of the > Nose/Apron closely matches that of the radius on the rear fenders. the trunk > lid could be utilized. There would have to be a transition panel much like a > shortend hood between the back of the nose and the front of the rear cowl. > Anyone done this? Just an idea. > > Kent Shrack > (aka. TR3 body tub mutilator) > TS 78563 o I have seen MGA and 50's Chevy trailers made this way. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 19 10:49:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 09:49:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3-4 trunnion pin In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <082101c8d22c$63b59e20$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Anyone know if they can be > obtained and pressed into an old trunnion which is good except for > the pin. I don't believe they are. In fact, I don't believe that the pins that came in my new trunnions would have fit properly in the old ones. Given how hard it is to assess the condition of the threads inside (the wear is all on the face you can't see) and that those little strips of brass are all that keep the frame from hitting the ground, that might be a Good Thing. Randall From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jun 19 11:32:45 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 10:32:45 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers In-Reply-To: <7BFC2CB7-1526-4D72-BFF3-72207BF645F0@cox.net> References: <20080618140457.STPN4.160678.imail@eastrmwml06><06fd01c8d1b3$2f7d6f80$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><6fa72a770806182029yefd5f3dmd7b65704bad94616@mail.gmail.com> <7BFC2CB7-1526-4D72-BFF3-72207BF645F0@cox.net> Message-ID: <8FFE68AD67F546E88BAF83112AF9ED29@GeoPC> Here's Bob and his TRailer at the 1987 TRA: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Bob-n-TRailer.JPG He towed the TRailer from AZ to Houston Woods in Ohio. The rectangular black hole in the grille is where he cut it out to improve airflow while crossing Texas in June heat. Anyone care to guess what the guy standing in front of Bob and pointing is pointing at? Hint: It was a panorama photo. Geo PS: I have no idea if this image is copyrighted ----- Original Message ----- From: "60TR3A" <60TR3A at cox.net> >I may be confused but when we were doing the last "More BS on TRs" > didn't someone post a picture of Bob Schaller with a teardrop trailer > attached to his TR3??? > John From dncullig at us.ibm.com Thu Jun 19 12:29:28 2008 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 14:29:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers Message-ID: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" wrote: >Anyone care to guess what the guy standing in front of Bob and pointing is >pointing at? Hint: It was a panorama photo. He's probably pointing at all the guys running behind the camera to get in both sides of the photo... Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From dkspence at telus.net Thu Jun 19 13:03:09 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 13:03:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR3 and trailers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2B561DA7-DAB4-4895-8A14-644E59D62601@telus.net> Amazing what a little Googling can do for you. Have a look at: http://www.autoblog.com/2007/03/23/smart-fortwo-concept-trailers- prove-fortwo-will-tow-the-line/ http://timeouttrailers.org/default.aspx http://www.wellscargo.com/wells/model.html?model=1 www.Tailpullers.org On 19-Jun-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > >> Do you believe a TR3 could tow a small teardrop trail or? apptox >> weight would be about <1000lb's. > > I've seen old VW Beetles hauling trailers. Sure, a TR3 can haul one. > > Beware of excessive trailer weight. Most are pointlessly heavy in > a number of areas. You might want to look at motorcycle trailers. > They are pretty, lighweight, and frequently kinda expensive. > > As an example, I've got a motorcycle cargo trailer. It weighs 40 lbs. From dkspence at telus.net Thu Jun 19 13:08:49 2008 From: dkspence at telus.net (Don Spence) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 13:08:49 -0600 Subject: [TR] TR trailer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3E9FFAA0-8F25-4A8F-814A-E43AED5771E5@telus.net> See also: http://www.sellitnowmotors.com/classifieds/index.php?a=2&b=5211 On 19-Jun-08, at 12:00 PM, triumphs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > >> Do you believe a TR3 could tow a small teardrop trail or? apptox >> weight would be about <1000lb's. > > I've seen old VW Beetles hauling trailers. Sure, a TR3 can haul one. > > Beware of excessive trailer weight. Most are pointlessly heavy in > a number of areas. You might want to look at motorcycle trailers. > They are pretty, lighweight, and frequently kinda expensive. > > As an example, I've got a motorcycle cargo trailer. It weighs 40 lbs. From CarlSereda at aol.com Thu Jun 19 14:14:50 2008 From: CarlSereda at aol.com (CarlSereda at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 16:14:50 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3-4 trunnion pin Message-ID: Allen, RevingtonTR.com sells cross-shafts for TR4 trunnions.. They are not drilled for cotter pins/castellated nut - Neil recommends steel lock nuts (like nylocs except crimped steel instead of nylon) for the ends. The shafts are excellent quality. Also, Neil Revington is the only vendor selling correctly made end thrust-washers for late TR4 trunnions (post CT20000 or so) - I highly recommend you get the 4 new outside thrustwashers from him if your washers are the style that use the 16 steel shims that save the rubber seals. Pounding out the old shafts is fairly easy but you need a machine shop ($5) or your own ton-press to install new ones. The new shafts have a new pattern of splines which cuts new paths through old shaft hole in bronze - ensuring they don't spin. Easy enough. Shafts cost L17 each, a few years ago, and L1.50 each thrust washer, plus shipping from UK. And based on a converstation with a favorite US TR parts vendor at the time, I think RevingtonTR's rubber dust seals (8 rqrd) are probably better than what you can get in the states at the moment. Good luck, Carl '63 TR4 since '74 I had thought that trunnion pins for the 3/4 were available separately and could be pressed in after removing the old one. After checking the catalogs I don't see any. Anyone know if they can be obtained and pressed into an old trunnion which is good except for the pin. Allen TR4


**************
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Thu Jun 19 14:52:00 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 13:52:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Lifting jack help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007501c8d24e$527090d0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> This may seem petty, but one last detail I can't figure out is where the scissors jack fits in the tool/tire storage area. I don't have the original for my 4a and just have an old jack wrapped in a towel lying in the trunk. Very unsightly, and slides around when I "exercise" the TR on country roads. Any pictures of what people are using for a jack and how it's stored would be a huge help! Thanks. Brian '67 TR4a From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 19 15:59:48 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 21:59:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 + trailers Message-ID: <061920082159.6756.485AD6D4000AC88D00001A6422165662769D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Geo & Kathleen Hahn" > Here's Bob and his TRailer at the 1987 TRA: > > http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/Bob-n-TRailer.JPG > > He towed the TRailer from AZ to Houston Woods in Ohio. The rectangular > black hole in the grille is where he cut it out to improve airflow while > crossing Texas in June heat. > > Anyone care to guess what the guy standing in front of Bob and pointing is > pointing at? Hint: It was a panorama photo. Himself at the other end? A joke as old as the cameras themselves. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From roggez at bigpond.net.au Thu Jun 19 16:21:45 2008 From: roggez at bigpond.net.au (Dave Rogers) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 08:21:45 +1000 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design Message-ID: <005201c8d25a$dbf31650$6501a8c0@davem9r6naq38r> John Herrera made a good point about getting the tongue weight or trailer load on the hitch/towball correct. Most authorities strongly suggest that the load on the tow ball should be 10% of the total trailer load (+/- 1%). This can be quite critical insofar as handling/steering is concerned. The other rule of thumb is that the rear of the car should only go down about an inch when the trailer is affixed. If not, the trailer CofG needs adjustment by some means. I would add that these points apply to towbars only. I have no experience with 5th wheelers. I would also check the local DMV regulations to see if a trailer of 1000lb weight needs some form of inertia/electric brakes, as the last thing you would want is to rely on the vehicle brakes alone, with another ton to stop! Dave Rogers Canberra Australia From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jun 19 17:33:41 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 19:33:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] Fixing Paint Chips Message-ID: <000001c8d264$ea480490$210110ac@bobspc> The downside of driving my car as much as I do is that it picks up its share of stone hits which chip the paint. I had an auto paint shop mix me some touch up paint and wonder what's the best way to fix all these small chips. I tried using a very small fine tipped brush but the paint doesn't really fill the "hole" so there's a very defined edge between the old and the new. So my questions are: - Should I first strip the polish from the spots I want to touch up and what's the best thing to use for stripping polish? - Do you have to wet sand to get the old and new paint to "blend" and get rid of the chip edge? If so what do you recommend using for wet sanding? I'm in no way trying to achieve a concurs finish here.....I'm just trying to fill and protect. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Thu Jun 19 18:01:34 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 17:01:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design In-Reply-To: <005201c8d25a$dbf31650$6501a8c0@davem9r6naq38r> Message-ID: <08ef01c8d268$ce529710$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Most authorities strongly suggest that the > load on the tow ball should be 10% of the total trailer load (+/- 1%). > This can be quite critical insofar as handling/steering is concerned. > > The other rule of thumb is that the rear of the car should only go > down > about an inch when the trailer is affixed. If not, the trailer CofG needs > adjustment by some means. I disagree, to some extent. 10% weight on the tongue is an absolute minimum for a single axle trailer IMO, and 12% is better just because it gives you some margin. Too little weight on the tongue tends to be a truly religious experience, because the trailer will handle just peachy until you're above some minimum speed (last time I had a mis-loaded trailer, it was 52 mph) and hit a little bump of some sort or start down a small grade. Then it will start swaying violently ... I've cleared a 4-lane Interstate that way ! BTW, if it does start to sway, do NOT try to countersteer, or jam on the brakes. Hold the wheel steady, and brake gently. Steering towards the shoulder seems to help too, but only with slow, gentle changes in steering. More info at http://www.sherline.com/lmbook.htm including a chart for various trailer types (scroll down). 1" is quite a bit of suspension droop on a TR3 (which has a very stiff rear suspension compared to later Triumphs), but reducing tongue weight to reduce suspension droop is a BAD idea. Having tried both, I would rather tow with the rear suspension sitting on the stops, than with the tongue too light. Add some overload springs (or air bags); or move some weight from the car into the trailer (12% is better than 100%). If you have to, switch to a "load equalizing" hitch (which transfers tongue weight to both front and rear tow vehicle suspension), but don't try to shift the CG of the trailer. But 10% of 1000 pounds is only 100 pounds, so I don't think you'll have any trouble, as long as you keep the bricks out of the boot Randall From terryrs at comcast.net Thu Jun 19 18:01:57 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 00:01:57 +0000 Subject: [TR] More on Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket Message-ID: <062020080001.19348.485AF375000B2E8500004B9422165258069C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Would like to say there's a simple solution, but it all depends on what your purpose for the car is. If you plan on a daily driver, I don't believe in shortcuts. Do everything right today, you can drive safe at speed, and you won't be calling AAA from the side of the road during a rainstorm in Vancouver. Just my two cents. Terry Smith, '59 TR3A New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: "wbeech" > I seen it done successfully with J-B Weld. Ideally, strip it down and > either replace the block or have it professionally welded for the repair. > > Bill B > '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L > '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO > "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of > course, some times it is difficult to make it go" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Allan > Reich > Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 5:46 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: [TR] More on Smoking TR3 after replacing Head Gasket > > I need some more help from the listers! > I found the source of my water .. I have two cracks in the block .. > where bolt #9 and bolt #10 are in the block. They are small hairline cracks > that go from the stud threads to the water jackets, but they are visible to > the eye (in fact I have pictures that show the cracks). > My questions are: > - Can this be repaired with some kind of thread epoxy or ???? > - Do I find a another block and swap all my parts over? > Allan Reich - Vancouver > 1960 TR3A - TS65713L (+O) > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as terryrs at comcast.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Thu Jun 19 18:33:10 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 17:33:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] Fixing Paint Chips In-Reply-To: <000001c8d264$ea480490$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c8d264$ea480490$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <784719B77519434AAD5AB2F754949734@GeoPC> I use a fiberglass-tipped 'pen' to scratch the bottom of the chip a bit then prep the area with a paint prep product. I use 'Total Prep', Prepsol may be another brand. Takes lots of little drops of paint to fill the chip, letting each one dry before doing the next. So in the end it is 5 minutes work but spread over a week or more. I overfill the chip (slightly) then sand down by wet-sanding with a small piece of very fine paper (maybe 600 or 800) to get the surface even. I mount the paper on a small piece of firm foam (some use the tip of a new pencil eraser). This is followed by some ultra fine (1200 or was it 1800), then rubbing compound then some really fine stuff like swirl remover then maybe something so soft it also disolves as it polishes (I use Comet at this point). Finally wax and buff. I'm sure there are lots of other tricks (e.g. razor blades) but this is what works for me. Main thing is to have patience, you can't fix it all in one go. Practice on an inconspicuous spot to get your technique perfected. If the paint is really thin (sometimes is if it is left over from a spray job) I find putting a bit in a small jar and letting it thicken a bit helps... but since they mixed it up just for you this is likely unnecessary. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 4:33 PM Subject: [TR] Fixing Paint Chips > The downside of driving my car as much as I do is that it picks up its > share > of stone hits which chip the paint. I had an auto paint shop mix me some > touch up paint and wonder what's the best way to fix all these small > chips. From ZinkZ10C at aol.com Thu Jun 19 19:43:31 2008 From: ZinkZ10C at aol.com (ZinkZ10C at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 21:43:31 EDT Subject: [TR] caliper piston pop-out? Message-ID: Did any fluid leak from the caliper piston when it was in the extended position? If not the seal never lost contact with the piston. If there was fluid leakage, pushing the piston back in is OK. The seal resides in the caliper body and is difficult to dislodge. Harold ************** Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From MMoore8425 at aol.com Thu Jun 19 19:55:16 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 21:55:16 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design Message-ID: In a message dated 6/19/2008 5:02:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: Then it will start swaying violently ... I've cleared a 4-lane Interstate that way ! BTW, if it does start to sway, do NOT try to countersteer, or jam on the brakes. Hold the wheel steady, and brake gently. Steering towards the shoulder seems to help too, but only with slow, gentle changes in steering. Years ago I was behind an MGB on an interstate and he started swinging violently with greater amplitude each cycle. I braked and got way behind before he lost it. The whole darned thing spunout and jacknifed. Nothing tipped over but it sure was horrifyingto watchs. Mike Moore **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From skip47 at clearwire.net Fri Jun 20 00:17:39 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 23:17:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design References: Message-ID: <002101c8d29d$5a28a250$6600a8c0@ZEUS> I gotta share experience from my misspent youth; with a moral at the end.... I used a Lotus Cortina to tow a TVR on a trailer around Texas for several years, learning more than once about trailerflags. Then I took off for California with my daughter and a calico cat named Fido. Outside of San Antonio, we started down a long hill at about 55 and it started to wave at me (the trailer, not the cat). Knowing that trailers flag because they're trying to lead, I kept the Cortina pointed downrange and gently accelerated, so to keep pulling rather than being pushed. At the bottom of the hill we were doing 80, but the waving hadn't increased. As soon as we headed back uphill, calm and compliance magically returned as usual. At the end of the trip, we successfully navigated the foggy 15 mile 6-percent downhill into San Diego at about 30mph without incident. After I bought the Cherokee for use as a tow SUV, that kind of excitement never came up again. Moral: recognize and allow for the possibility; modify speed appropriately BEFORE creating an incident. bonus Moral; make sure the tow-er significantly outweighs the tow-ee. Skip Gurnee 64 TR4 66 TR4A plus all the mechanical characters in the above tale no cats. daughter married off. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 6:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design > In a message dated 6/19/2008 5:02:08 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > > Then it will > start swaying violently ... I've cleared a 4-lane Interstate that way ! > > BTW, if it does start to sway, do NOT try to countersteer, or jam on the > brakes. Hold the wheel steady, and brake gently. Steering towards the > shoulder seems to help too, but only with slow, gentle changes in steering. > > > > Years ago I was behind an MGB on an interstate and he started swinging > violently with greater amplitude each cycle. I braked and got way behind before he > lost it. The whole darned thing spunout and jacknifed. Nothing tipped over > but it sure was horrifyingto watch. > > Mike Moore From opposumking at verizon.net Fri Jun 20 03:48:40 2008 From: opposumking at verizon.net (Nolan) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 05:48:40 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design References: Message-ID: <007501c8d2ba$d1d7ccf0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> A trailer sways because its nose is pointing one way, and then the other. This can be from weak trailer tire sidewalls (low tire pressure), sloppy trailer suspension (common), wiggly hitch mount, and inadequate tires on the tow vehicle (very common). Various factors can increase the swaying tendancy. The shorter the distance between the hitch and the trailer axle(s), the more likely the trailwer will sway. As well extending the load out from the centroid of the trailer axle(s). Distance from the hitch to the tow vehicle rear axle rapidly increases leverage on the tow vehicle tires, creating lots of neat sway problems. The 10% tongue weight rule of thumb is simply a means of helping ensure you don't load the trailer in a manner that exasurbates the swaying tendancy. Far more important is to ensure the causes of sway are addressed. Many an otherwise stable trailer sways because the tow vehicle has weak sidewall tires and low tire pressure, and I'm not talking about just the rear tires. From jrherrera90 at hotmail.com Fri Jun 20 07:16:36 2008 From: jrherrera90 at hotmail.com (John Herrera) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 09:16:36 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design In-Reply-To: <005201c8d25a$dbf31650$6501a8c0@davem9r6naq38r> References: <005201c8d25a$dbf31650$6501a8c0@davem9r6naq38r> Message-ID: > John Herrera made a good point about getting the tongue weight or trailer> load on the hitch/towball correct. Not guilty. I think it was The Randall. But I agree, having experimented with towing my TR3 racecar loaded backwards on a Formula Ford trailer (TR3 hung over the front and back) behind a SAAB on I-79 and I-68. Never again! John From flashtr3 at cox.net Thu Jun 19 07:53:46 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 06:53:46 -0700 Subject: [TR] steering column inner bushings References: <061820081709.13470.4859413B000C892C0000349E22165258569D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000901c8d213$e5268e60$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> The wire is in a 4 wire loom that is wrapped. You can pull the complete harness through with-out taking out the steering column out, but you will need to disconnect the horn assy. to get at the wires. The stator tube will come out with the wire harness through the steering wheel and then you can replace the harness or repair the individually wire. Don't forget to disconnect the wires that come out of the steering box when removing the stator tube. Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: pethier at comcast.net To: Ibsen Dow ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:09 AM Subject: Re: [TR] steering column inner bushings -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Ibsen Dow" > Your horn beeping intermittent I suspect, is possibly due to a horn wire the > goes through the steering column has some insulation that is worn on the wire > and is making contact with ground. > > You can remove the wire & replace or repair as needed. Can you pull that wire through without disassembling the steering column? When we go to the Back To The Fifties this weekend, we will just pretend to be waving to someone we know! -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From pebarnes71 at gmail.com Fri Jun 20 09:34:32 2008 From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 10:34:32 -0500 Subject: [TR] TomTom image Message-ID: <7bfc62290806200834k134c91eewdd452411d71093cb@mail.gmail.com> I recently bought a TomTom navigation thingie and logged onto their website for updates to the maps. While there, I noticed there are alternate screens available for start-up and shut-down. One of them is a TR2 rolling chassis and engine. It's a small image, so I can't tell if it's a photo or an artist's rendition. In any case, I now look at a Triumph whenever I go for a ride, regardless of what I drive. Phil Barnes Keeneyville, PA '71 TR6 pebarnes71 at gmail.com (new e-mail address) From PACBURROWS at aol.com Fri Jun 20 10:51:29 2008 From: PACBURROWS at aol.com (PACBURROWS at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 12:51:29 EDT Subject: [TR] Top bows and fuses Message-ID: Good Morning I have been under the impression that the top bows that have been with the vehicle I am restoring were for a TR-3. Wrong...they are for a TR-4. I am looking for a good set for my TR-3 small mouth. I have a pair that I will be listing on Ebay. I had them powder coated, not painted, a gloss black if anyone needs a set. Also I need to find a reference source for the fuse conversions from Lucas to US buzz type. Randall??? One other thing. What is the oil type or weight for the AUG878 SU carbs? My car is a 1957 TR-3 small mouth but has a 196? TR-3A engine in it. Thanks for the help. Paul **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 20 11:49:35 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 10:49:35 -0700 Subject: [TR] Top bows and fuses In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <001801c8d2fe$0117eb10$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > I have been under the impression that the top bows that have been with the > vehicle I am restoring were for a TR-3. Wrong...they are for a TR-4. I am > looking for a good set for my TR-3 small mouth. I've got several sets taking up space, Paul. Write me off-list and let's get together. If you are going on the Drive tomorrow, I could bring them along. (Don't have a Triumph running, so I'll be in a LJC.) > Also I need to find a reference source for the fuse > conversions from Lucas to US buzz type. An easy rule of thumb is to take 1/2 the rating given in the book, and round up to the next larger available size. Here is a conversion chart, lifted from a long-ago Buss fuse catalog : English Type Buss Replacement 50 amp AGC 30 35 amp AGC 25 30 amp AGC 20 25 amp AGC 15 20 amp AGC 10 10 amp AGC 7 1/2 5 amp AGC 3 Personally, I feel even this chart results in fuses rather larger than needed, so for example I use an AGC 20 to replace the original "35 amp" fuse in my TR3A. My conversion chart would go more like : English Buss 50 25 35 20 30 15 25 15 20 10 10 5 5 3 > What is the oil type or weight for the AUG878 SU carbs? Lots of debate on that topic, with no clear answers. IMO it depends on many factors, including weather/climate, how worn your carbs are and your personal tastes. The book suggests using the same oil recommended for the engine; which would amount to SAE 40 for temps consistently over 70F or SAE 30 for temps in the range 40-70F. But after some experimentation, I decided that SAE 20 worked best for me. 20W50 will work in a pinch, but IMO it's better to use a straight-weight oil, since you don't need as much enrichment when the weather (and engine) is hot. The straight-weight oil will thin more as it gets hot, giving less enrichment effect (and hence slightly better fuel mileage) when it's not necessary. Detergent or not; synthetic or not; high quality or not; makes no difference IMO. Last time I looked though, I could only find straight 20 weight in non-detergent, so that's what I use. $.99/qt at the local "99 Cent" store Randall From skip47 at clearwire.net Fri Jun 20 11:57:55 2008 From: skip47 at clearwire.net (Skip Gurnee) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 10:57:55 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design References: <007501c8d2ba$d1d7ccf0$230bfea9@mde.state.md.us> Message-ID: <002a01c8d2ff$2c6f8a60$6600a8c0@ZEUS> Points well taken regarding tires, centroid, and axle/hitch distance; and let's not forget center of gravity of a loaded trailer is likely higher than a TRiumph, which increases likelihood of overturning unless the trailer is wide enough which increases the likelihood of flagging. Gotta be a happy medium somewhere. We're on this thread with regard to TR's towing trailers, and all these issues would have to be more critical than when towing with a heavier vehicle. With regard to the cause of swaying in the first place, I don't argue that the nose of the trailer pointing in different directions is an effect, but the cause would have to be something else if you've been going dead straight and steady. Side winds, road crown, road surface, grabbing a cat to keep it from jumping out the window, all would be, I think, more logical causes. Downhill isn't actually a cause, it magnifies the real causes. My moral(s) still apply; if you have a light tow car, the towed weight must be concomitantly lighter, and the driver more acutely aware of and prepared for processes that are masked by mass of the tow car. BTW, my Cherokee's rear axle is 48-in from the hitch, about the same as a TR4. The wheelbase and vehicle weight are somewhat larger...:>) Best, Skip ---- Original Message ----- From: "Nolan" To: Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 2:48 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design > A trailer sways because its nose is pointing one way, and then the other. > This can be from weak trailer tire sidewalls (low tire pressure), sloppy > trailer suspension (common), wiggly hitch mount, and inadequate tires on the > tow vehicle (very common). > > Various factors can increase the swaying tendency. The shorter the distance > between the hitch and the trailer axle(s), the more likely the trailer will > sway, as well as extending the load out from the centroid of the trailer axle(s). > Distance from the hitch to the tow vehicle rear axle rapidly increases leverage > on the tow vehicle tires, creating lots of neat sway problems. > > The 10% tongue weight rule of thumb is simply a means of helping ensure you > don't load the trailer in a manner that exacerbates the swaying tendency. > Far more important is to ensure the causes of sway are addressed. Many an > otherwise stable trailer sways because the tow vehicle has weak sidewall > tires and low tire pressure, and I'm not talking about just the rear tires. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as skip47 at clearwire.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 20 12:41:29 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 11:41:29 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design In-Reply-To: <002a01c8d2ff$2c6f8a60$6600a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <003b01c8d305$415a3ff0$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > but the cause would have to be something else if you've been going > dead straight and steady. Side winds, road crown, road surface, I agree, Skip, but the fact is that there are always small upsets to "dead straight and steady". Roads are never perfectly flat, nor perfectly straight. And sometimes it's even necessary to change lanes. The key is that any small perturbations in the trailer's relationship to the tow vehicle must settle out, rather than get larger. > My moral(s) still apply; if you have a light tow car, the towed > weight must be concomitantly lighter, I'll also disagree with that. Having a heavy tow vehicle helps, certainly, but is no guarantee of safety. I've run a lot of miles with trailers both heavier and lighter than the tow vehicle; and there is simply no substitute for enough tongue weight to guarantee stability. Many years ago, I towed a TR3 on a boat trailer some 2300 miles, behind a car barely heavier than the TR3 (not counting the trailer). Absolutely no trouble whatsoever, even at 70-75 mph (other than only getting about 10 mpg from a car that normally got 30 ) Did the same thing a few years later, only this time with a home-made box trailer nearly 8 feet tall and containing a piano as well as other household items. Again no problem with sway, even when the trailer lost a tire and I had to pull into the gravel median to change it. Same small car, but wouldn't run over 70 mph on the flat and had to use 2nd gear to get up even a 5% grade. But then just a few years ago I tried to pull a Sports 6 behind a much larger car (Buick Roadmaster Estate, over 4000 pounds curbside, rated to tow 10000) and had a terrible time. Even got pulled over by the police because it was wagging just a little bit (still in my lane) going down a slight grade at 50 mph. That trailer was made so I couldn't get the car far enough forward, to get the tongue weight up where it belonged. Put the same load on a properly-made trailer behind the same tow vehicle, no trouble whatsoever (except for a warning for speeding ). Randall From MMoore8425 at aol.com Fri Jun 20 13:21:18 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 15:21:18 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design Message-ID: In a message dated 6/20/2008 10:58:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, skip47 at clearwire.net writes: My moral(s) still apply; if you have a light tow car, the towed weight must be concomitantly lighter, and the driver more acutely aware of and prepared for processes that are masked by mass of the tow car. Skip, I agee with that ESPECIALLY if the trailer doesn't have its own brakes.The small trailers I've seen towed by TRs don't have their own brakes. I once read that the reason for the weight concern is because of brakes more so than hp. A small trailer being towed by a large car will be a lower percentage of the cars brake capacity than will a small car towing a large trailer. Best, Mike Moore **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From pethier at comcast.net Fri Jun 20 13:48:37 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 19:48:37 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design Message-ID: <062020081948.6743.485C0995000A008C00001A5722165384969D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> The TR3 has a lot of rear overhang, so it is IMPERATIVE that the distance from the trailer hitch to the trailer wheels be as long as possible. If you have a choice of tongue lengths, always opt for the longer one. You want the car to steer the trailer, not the trailer to steer the car. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jun 20 16:37:11 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 18:37:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] U-joint? Really?? Message-ID: <485BF8D7.16954.28B0480D@localhost> I read all of your insightful email about u-joit replacement. I even watched that video of the guy trying to replace a u-joint in 5 minutes. Then I tried to do it the same way. Of course it took about 55 minutes to pull the axle from the car. A thunderstorm threatened as I moved into the garage. It took just a few minutes to remove the C-clips, though two of them broke in the process because they were so stuck to the flanges. Then after about an hour, no, make that two hours of banging on the arm of a big bench vice I managed to get both sets of bearings to move. Neither would come out fully however. One direction has moved sufficiently that there is daylight between the flange and the bearing, but I couldn't get either side all the way out. The other direction is still stuck, partly out toward one side. What a mess. I worry that they'll never come out now. Guess I'll take it over to the shop around the corner like I shoulda' done in the first place. What a mess. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jun 20 17:23:09 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:23:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] U-joint? Really?? In-Reply-To: <485BF8D7.16954.28B0480D@localhost> References: <485BF8D7.16954.28B0480D@localhost> Message-ID: <000001c8d32c$9a0db330$0302a8c0@newcomputer> Jim, Bring them over to the house and I'll replace them for you! On second thought with the cost of gas, it will probably be much cheaper to take them to the shop around the corner! :) Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 3:37 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] U-joint? Really?? I read all of your insightful email about u-joit replacement. I even watched that video of the guy trying to replace a u-joint in 5 minutes. Then I tried to do it the same way. Of course it took about 55 minutes to pull the axle from the car. A thunderstorm threatened as I moved into the garage. It took just a few minutes to remove the C-clips, though two of them broke in the process because they were so stuck to the flanges. Then after about an hour, no, make that two hours of banging on the arm of a big bench vice I managed to get both sets of bearings to move. Neither would come out fully however. One direction has moved sufficiently that there is daylight between the flange and the bearing, but I couldn't get either side all the way out. The other direction is still stuck, partly out toward one side. What a mess. I worry that they'll never come out now. Guess I'll take it over to the shop around the corner like I shoulda' done in the first place. What a mess. Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jun 20 17:49:34 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 19:49:34 -0400 Subject: [TR] U-joint? Really?? In-Reply-To: <000001c8d32c$9a0db330$0302a8c0@newcomputer> References: <485BF8D7.16954.28B0480D@localhost> Message-ID: <485C09CE.29820.28F28AC3@localhost> On 20 Jun 2008 at 16:23, Joe Curry wrote: > Bring them over to the house and I'll replace them for you! > > On second thought with the cost of gas, it will probably be much cheaper to > take them to the shop around the corner! :) Ah, Joe, I've forgotten where you live. So I entered Flagstaff into StreetAtlas. It looks like the round trip will be 5200 miles. At 35mpg and $4/gal, that's $594.29. I appreciate offer but I'll pass. Thanks anyway. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Fri Jun 20 17:54:24 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:54:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] U-joint? Really?? In-Reply-To: <485C09CE.29820.28F28AC3@localhost> References: <485BF8D7.16954.28B0480D@localhost> <485C09CE.29820.28F28AC3@localhost> Message-ID: <000101c8d330$f77a2f90$0302a8c0@newcomputer> You will have to add a couple more tanks of gas to your estimate. I live about 40 miles from Mexico! Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 4:50 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] U-joint? Really?? On 20 Jun 2008 at 16:23, Joe Curry wrote: > Bring them over to the house and I'll replace them for you! > > On second thought with the cost of gas, it will probably be much cheaper to > take them to the shop around the corner! :) Ah, Joe, I've forgotten where you live. So I entered Flagstaff into StreetAtlas. It looks like the round trip will be 5200 miles. At 35mpg and $4/gal, that's $594.29. I appreciate offer but I'll pass. Thanks anyway. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 20 18:09:37 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:09:37 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design In-Reply-To: <005a01c8d32e$0e89d710$6600a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <001b01c8d333$18930420$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > Having them reduces the > challenges to practically nil, as Mike said. There again, I disagree. My very first experience with trailer sway was with a camping trailer my Dad was towing, which did have brakes. We had pulled that thing all over the place (approx 8000 pound trailer behind maybe a 4000 pound car) and never had a problem. Until one day on the way home from camping, a truck passed us and his wake started it swaying. The brakes were helpful in getting it stopped; but it should never have swung more than a few inches, let alone 10-20 feet ! And the ONLY thing different than before was that the weight distribution had changed. Fresh water tank in the front was empty; black water at the back was full. Learned to not tow it that way, and the problem never happened again. We also had a 18' boat that we towed around a lot ... when it suddenly started handling funny, we discovered that the stand with the winch had slipped rearward, meaning the boat was loaded maybe 4" farther back than before. Moved it back and it handled just fine. Pretty good considering the boat on the trailer was easily 12' tall and 8' wide; and we towed it behind a full size sedan (my second car, an Olds Delta 88). > I hate being made wrong even if I am. Ok, I'll stop arguing. I don't know WHY tongue weight is so important; I only know that all my experiences in some 35 years of towing various things with various vehicles say that tongue weight is more important than anything else. You can take the sweetest tempered rig in the world, and turn it into a death trap, by just moving the CG of the trailer too far back. Then move the load 6" forward and turn it back into something you hardly know is there (until you try to start or stop anyway ). Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Fri Jun 20 19:06:25 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 21:06:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design In-Reply-To: <001b01c8d333$18930420$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> References: <005a01c8d32e$0e89d710$6600a8c0@ZEUS> Message-ID: <485C1BD1.23653.2938E8AD@localhost> On 20 Jun 2008 at 17:09, Randall wrote: > I don't know WHY tongue weight is so important; Very intriguing question. If I had to guess, I'd say it isn't the tongue weight per se, but the location of the c.o.m. in front of the axle. This would have a profound effect on its natural period of oscillation around a vertical axis centered on its axle. It also affects how its weight is transferred to the towing vehicle. When lateral momentum (or its cousin, centrifugal force) pushes the trailer mass sideways, a front-loaded trailer will push the rear of the towing vehicle that way too. On a rear-loaded trailer it will push the rear of the towing vehicle the opposite way. The transition between the two behaviors will be very sharp as the weight is shifted front to rear. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From mathews at uga.edu Fri Jun 20 19:29:25 2008 From: mathews at uga.edu (Doug Mathews) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 21:29:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Trailer Physics Message-ID: <20080621012844.B29C7187644@autox.team.net> Hmm, Jim Muller provided these terms! Thanks! ;-) ;-) c.o.m natural period of oscillation vertical axis lateral momentum centrifugal force trailer mass sideways Gosh, I wish I remembered my physics that well! ;-) Good Job. Doug From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jun 20 21:13:37 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 23:13:37 EDT Subject: [TR] U-joint? Really?? Message-ID: Jim, The caps do not come out fully. I slip an 1/8 drift past from the inside and pop one out. once one is out it comes apart. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Fri Jun 20 21:41:25 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 23:41:25 -0400 Subject: [TR] Is this TR3 'extra sporty'? Message-ID: <00c501c8d350$af59ee10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> List, Like alot of folks, I watch ebay for TR3 items. It seems like this one looks 'extra sporty' from the front. Is this correct? Why is it I'm thinking it looks 'extra sporty'? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3-1959-Triumph-TR3-Restored-Classic_ W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ39Q3a1Q7c65Q3a10QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZ item290240130090QQitemZ290240130090 Thanks, Paul Dorsey, 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 698 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From ray at raysmg.com Sat Jun 21 06:37:57 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 05:37:57 -0700 Subject: [TR] =?utf-8?q?Is_this_TR3_=27extra_sporty=27=3F?= Message-ID: <20080621053757.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.9e5f87197b.wbe@email.secureserver.net> Those long URLs kill my browser...item = 290240130090 . --- Paul, looks pretty much normal to me...maybe it's the stone guards over the headlights or the grille badge? Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From ray at raysmg.com Sat Jun 21 07:09:27 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 06:09:27 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design Message-ID: <20080621060927.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.354a0d77f6.wbe@email.secureserver.net> I have a Pace 8x16 enclosed car hauler. It's finished out on the inside and carries an AC unit on top and full length awning, so with a spare, tool box, etc. weight is near 4000 lbs. With the Midget on board that brings it to around 5500 and with the TR3 near 6000. When I bought the trailer I upgraded my towing capacity, replacing my SUV's Class 3 rating (5000 lb) with a new Nissan Titan that has 9400 lbs cap. and a Class 4 hitch. The new truck has the "Big Tow" package which provides a few options, the most important being the "tow" button on the dash that reprograms shift ranges and the addition of a transmission cooler and guage. I got sticker shock when I priced the load distributing hitch/sway bar package, but thought it a good investment in peace of mind and safety. Sway bars are a full 1" square. I've not regretted the decision. Deflection when overtaking an eighteen wheeler on the interstate or being overtaken by one is minimal, a few inches at most. Normal towing is straight as an arrow. A good quality brake controller assures confident, straight line, stopping (my trailer has brakes on all four wheels). One note, the trailer I purchased has torsion bar axles and a low center of gravity. Though I went with an extra height option (6' 6") so that I can comfortably walk around upright in the trailer, with the lower floor height it does not feel top heavy. With the low floor, a 30 inch beaver-tail, and a full height rear ramp neither car drags when loading. With either car on-board (in it's proper location) the tongue weighting is 650-700 lbs. A picture of the hitch setup is here: http://www.raysmg.com/Web%20Images/Edited/car_hauler/Pictures/Edited/hitch1.j pg And a full description and photos of the trailer here: http://www.raysmg.com/rays_mg_midget_car_hauler.htm --- U-Haul's site offers the following information on Class/Capacity/Tongue Weighting: Class 1 (Class I) hitch Trailer hitch with capacity of up to 2,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 200 lbs tongue weight. Class 2 (Class II) hitch Trailer hitch with weight-carrying rating of up to 3,500 lbs gross trailer weight and 300/350 lbs tongue weight. Class 3 (Class III) hitch Trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 5,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. Also sometimes used to refer to a hitch with any 2" receiver, regardless of rating. Class 4 (Class IV) hitch Trailer hitch with weight carrying rating of up to 10,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 1,000 - 1,200 lbs tongue weight. Although many times any hitch with a capacity greater than 5,000 lbs gross weight is referred to as a Class 4. Class 5 (Class V) hitch Any trailer hitch with capacity greater than 10,000 lbs gross trailer weight and 1,000-1,200 lbs tongue weight. Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From AA00727 at aol.com Sat Jun 21 10:11:48 2008 From: AA00727 at aol.com (AA00727 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 12:11:48 EDT Subject: [TR] Wheels for Spitfire??? Message-ID: Another question for the Spitfire guys. My friend rechecked the wheels and it turns out the bolt spacing is 3 & 3/4 ". Given the bolt pattern is correct, would the different back set from standard be a problem or could these wheels be used on a Spitfire? We don't want to tell someone they will work if they wont. Two sets of 4 Light weight, multi-piece,Formula Ford racing wheels, 13" four bolt pattern, 3 & 3/4" center to center, made in England. Might also be used on other 13" applications like a Triumph Spitfire. Set # 1 = 8 lbs each, Silver color, Back set from mounting surface to inner edge of rim- two = 2 & 11/16", two = 3 & 7/8". Set # 2 = The yellow set, 11 lbs each, back set two = 3 & 5/8", other two = 3 & 5/8". One rim has a small dent on inner rim. Still usable. **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From flashtr3 at cox.net Fri Jun 20 10:23:04 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 09:23:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel Camber & alignment TR3A Message-ID: <000801c8d2f1$eb24ade0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> After restoring the TR3A, I took my car to a local alignment shop, that has an excellent reputation for front alignment & suspension work, especially on classics. After adjusting the tie rods & checking alignment, the technician indicated to me the car has a slight drift to the left. He indicated the left side has too much positive camber 1.5 degrees the right side is .5 degrees. I ask what would cause this too happen as I have not had any accidents or damaged since I own the car from 1985. The car has always track straight no drift. He indicated that the stub axle has probably worn and the wheel is standing up out of alignment. Visually I can't tell looking at the wheels, but driving the car you can feel a slight drift to the left. Does this guy know what he is talking about. Do the sub axles need to be replaced? I would think if the camber is off, then the vertical link (moss#661-100) may be bent or out of aligned. Any insight? Ibsen From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Jun 21 11:58:11 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 13:58:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design In-Reply-To: <485C1BD1.23653.2938E8AD@localhost> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C084ECEA6@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Hmmmm, momentum imparting an accelerating force eh?... That's a bit like the spaceship Heart of Gold's improbability drive that moved the universe instead of the ship. :^) Mark -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Muller Sent: June 20, 2008 9:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design On 20 Jun 2008 at 17:09, Randall wrote: > I don't know WHY tongue weight is so important; Very intriguing question. If I had to guess, I'd say it isn't the tongue weight per se, but the location of the c.o.m. in front of the axle. This would have a profound effect on its natural period of oscillation around a vertical axis centered on its axle. It also affects how its weight is transferred to the towing vehicle. When lateral momentum (or its cousin, centrifugal force) pushes the trailer mass sideways, a front-loaded trailer will push the rear of the towing vehicle that way too. On a rear-loaded trailer it will push the rear of the towing vehicle the opposite way. The transition between the two behaviors will be very sharp as the weight is shifted front to rear. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jun 21 12:28:53 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 11:28:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheels for Spitfire??? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901c8d3cc$a8b432b0$0302a8c0@newcomputer> There is a very food chance that they will work. Spits will tolerate a quite large backspace before they will rub. In fact, they work much better with a large back space than if they were off centered in the opposite direction. Having too much outer space makes the tire rub the wheel opening of the fender. If you do have rubbing, it is typically at extreme lock on the firewall. This can somewhat be alleviated with a large rubber mallet. (Ask me how I know) :) Joe C. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of AA00727 at aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 9:12 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Wheels for Spitfire??? Another question for the Spitfire guys. My friend rechecked the wheels and it turns out the bolt spacing is 3 & 3/4 ". Given the bolt pattern is correct, would the different back set from standard be a problem or could these wheels be used on a Spitfire? We don't want to tell someone they will work if they wont. Two sets of 4 Light weight, multi-piece,Formula Ford racing wheels, 13" four bolt pattern, 3 & 3/4" center to center, made in England. Might also be used on other 13" applications like a Triumph Spitfire. Set # 1 = 8 lbs each, Silver color, Back set from mounting surface to inner edge of rim- two = 2 & 11/16", two = 3 & 7/8". Set # 2 = The yellow set, 11 lbs each, back set two = 3 & 5/8", other two = 3 & 5/8". One rim has a small dent on inner rim. Still usable. **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Jun 21 12:45:35 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 19:45:35 +0100 Subject: [TR] Trailer Physics References: <20080621012844.B29C7187644@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000801c8d3ce$feb81620$0201a8c0@Bevan> I've been watching this thread with interest as when I'm not fiddling about with Triumphs, writing or talking about them - my wife and I like to spend as much time as we can in our trailer home somewhere in the UK. Mostly we do this at weekends. To input further comment on this thread, its a widely accepted practise in the UK and Europe that for safe towing - whether a caravan (trailer home) or a simple trailer, the following facts are observed: 1. A four wheeled trailer is better than a two wheeled trailer. The two extra wheels give valuable extra stability, especially in cross winds. 2. The all-up weight of whatever is on the towbar should not be more than 80% of the towing vehicle weight. A 90% weight is about the maximum. The police tend to take a strong interest in any heavy load that looks heavier than the tow vehicle. 3. If the towed load exceeds 350lbs total weight (including trailer weight) the trailer must have its own braking system. Usually this is a mechanical set-up activated by the telescoping action of the towhitch on the vehicle towball. 4. Trailer noseweight (the downward thrust on the car towball) should be between 70-100 kgs (140-200lbs approx). You can easily calculate this by placing a set of bathroom scales under the trailer tow hitch and supporting it with a piece of 3"x3" timber. 5. The load in the caravan or on the trailer should be placed ideally over the trailer axles and slightly nose heavy and calculated as in 4 above. 6. Speed is restricted to a maximum of 60mph. 7. Trailer tyres should never be the same as car tyres. You need considerable extra strength in the side walls. Mine are 8 ply steel and I change them every five years. I have two trailer homes and a small household trailer, all of which are used regularly. While I always carefully check total trailer weight, load position and towball downthrust, all my trailers are fitted with an additional anti-snaking device that I can transfer from one unit to another. Even with a properly loaded trailer or caravan, snaking is often encountered by the suction effect of passing trucks and buses and my Bulldog set-up stops it even starting. Happily, all larger trailers and all caravans are now fitted as standard with an anti-snake lock when delivered from the factory. FWIW.... Jonmac From spitlist at cox.net Sat Jun 21 12:48:44 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 11:48:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheels for Spitfire??? In-Reply-To: <0A5A7B081F204CE7812E72508C53865C@GeoPC> References: <000901c8d3cc$a8b432b0$0302a8c0@newcomputer> <0A5A7B081F204CE7812E72508C53865C@GeoPC> Message-ID: <000b01c8d3cf$6ece3d40$0302a8c0@newcomputer> I guess it is good to be known for something even though it is something unsavory. Even the worst people in the world may be good. If for nothing other than being a "Bad Example"! My excuse is old age, fat fingers and impatience for proof reading my messages. As long as I get the message across it is all good. If I cause someone to get a good laugh, all the better! :) -----Original Message----- From: Geo & Kathleen Hahn [mailto:ahwahnee at cybertrails.com] Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:43 AM To: Joe Curry Subject: Re: [TR] Wheels for Spitfire??? Well Joe, here you go again. You will get a reputation as the King of Typos. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Curry" To: ; Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:28 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Wheels for Spitfire??? > There is a very food chance that they will work... From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Jun 21 12:59:40 2008 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 11:59:40 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Broken Shock Stem Message-ID: I have managed to break off the top of the stem on my passenger side front shock of my 74 TR6. I got the locking nut off and have the bottom nut just past where the locking nut was when the top on the stem broke off flush with the bolt. So now the top portion of the shock just spins when turn the nut. The driver side is done. I kept spraying Kroil as I progressed hoping to help the progress of removing the bolt but to no avail. I have loosened the 4 lower nuts and they were easier than the top bolts. Is my only solution to cut the top of the shock off below the bolt? Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Jun 21 13:02:52 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 12:02:52 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trailer Physics In-Reply-To: <000801c8d3ce$feb81620$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <20080621012844.B29C7187644@autox.team.net> <000801c8d3ce$feb81620$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: After a breakfast stop on a Saturday morning club drive I spotted something in a shopping center parking lot that looked like a nice photo op. Waved over an AH driver to join me for this pic: http://www.cybertrails.com/~ahwahnee/trailers2.JPG With that set-up I think we could finally take along enough parts, tools and clothes for the long trips. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jun 21 13:06:42 2008 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 15:06:42 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR6 Broken Shock Stem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200806211506.42690.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 21 June 2008 02:59 pm, Marty Clark wrote: > I have managed to break off the top of the stem on my passenger side front > shock of my 74 TR6. I got the locking nut off and have the bottom nut just > past where the locking nut was when the top on the stem broke off flush > with the bolt. So now the top portion of the shock just spins when turn the > nut. The driver side is done. I kept spraying Kroil as I progressed hoping > to help the progress of removing the bolt but to no avail. I have loosened > the 4 lower nuts and they were easier than the top bolts. Is my only > solution to cut the top of the shock off below the bolt? > > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > http://www.triumphowners.com/798 Marty, Not familiar with 6 shocks. Do they have just the stem from the body or are they like regular shocks with the "cover"? If there is just a stem, see if you can get a vice grip on the stem through the spring. If they have that cover, grab the cover with a good set of channel locks. Either way it looks like the shock will have to be replaced. Bob From technical-iwnet at onwight.net Sat Jun 21 13:29:50 2008 From: technical-iwnet at onwight.net (Graham Stretch) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 20:29:50 +0100 Subject: [TR] TR6 Broken Shock Stem References: Message-ID: <1C849C53AD57416BB5763464B3B77258@Zebu> Hi Marty I can not remember from the last time I saw a TR6 but if you have room and wish to save the shock you could cut down either side of the thread so that the nut falls away in four bits, or perhaps dremmel a slot in the nut and ease it open with a slotted screwdriver to release the tension on the threads and then unscrew it, I have applied both of these tactics with a good measure of success. be careful not to damage the thread whilst cutting or dremmeling. (dremmeling? is that a valid word or did I just make it up) Graham. Ps how is it running? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Marty Clark" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph Email List" Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 7:59 PM Subject: [TR] TR6 Broken Shock Stem >I have managed to break off the top of the stem on my passenger side front > shock of my 74 TR6. I got the locking nut off and have the bottom nut just > past where the locking nut was when the top on the stem broke off flush > with > the bolt. So now the top portion of the shock just spins when turn the > nut. > The driver side is done. I kept spraying Kroil as I progressed hoping to > help the progress of removing the bolt but to no avail. I have loosened > the > 4 lower nuts and they were easier than the top bolts. Is my only solution > to > cut the top of the shock off below the bolt? > > Marty Clark > Gilbert, AZ > 1974 TR6 CF17352U > http://www.triumphowners.com/798 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as technical-iwnet at onwight.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date: 6/21/2008 9:27 AM From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Jun 21 13:41:24 2008 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 12:41:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR6 Broken Shock Stem In-Reply-To: <1C849C53AD57416BB5763464B3B77258@Zebu> References: <1C849C53AD57416BB5763464B3B77258@Zebu> Message-ID: No need to save the shock as I have no idea how old they are and I'm replacing them and the mounting brackets. I'll break out the dremmel and try cutting down the sides of the nut. The car is still running great from your tune up! Thanks, Marty From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Jun 21 14:29:30 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 16:29:30 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spity Diff rear bushings Message-ID: Pulled the differential out of the Spitfire today to replace the mounting bushings. Crap, what a job. The only way I was able to get one out was to cut through the side of the sleeve. I put the replacement back in and did my best work throughly butchering the crap out of it. before I move on to the second one , whats the preferred method of replacing these buggers? I put the bushing in the freezer and heated the diff with a torch trying to gain a little room but it still pretty much laughed at me an my BFH. By the looks of the fresh paint on this differential possibly it was rebuilt in the somewhat recent past but the old, probably 40 year old bushing were left in. Now I understand why. Somebody give me some advice before the neighbors call the police about all the swearing coming from the garage. Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ The other season of giving begins 6/24/08. Check out the im Talkathon. http://www.imtalkathon.com?source=TXT_EML_WLH_SeasonOfGiving From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 21 14:55:25 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 13:55:25 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel Camber & alignment TR3A In-Reply-To: <000801c8d2f1$eb24ade0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <20080621205525.SHRG7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > He indicated the left side has too much positive camber > 1.5 degrees the right side is .5 degrees. Makes me wonder how he got that reputation ... the specification for a TR3 is 2 degrees positive. IOW, the problem is that the right side has too little camber, rather than the left having too much. > Do the stub axles need to be replaced? It's possible, but unlikely IMO. If the stub axles were actually "worn", then you should notice the extra play in the bearings. Even 0.5 degrees worth of wear would translate to almost 1/4" of movement at the treads; and hopefully someone checked that before even starting to do an alignment. Bending is more likely than wear, but still not likely IMO. > I would think if the camber is off, then the vertical link > (moss#661-100) may be bent or out of aligned. Any insight? That is another possibility. But my first thought would be to check for play or distortion in all the bushings. Did your rebuild include new trunnions and brass bushings in the A-arms ? Etc. Are you sure the upper pivots are installed the same on both sides? Next I'd think about damage to the pivots, especially where the lower ones attach to the frame. I had a TR3A once where a lower pivot pulled completely out of the frame (due to rust, mostly). Drove it that way for several months before I figured out the problem. And then the shop I paid to weld it back together didn't get the pivot in the right place! Also check to be sure the cross-tube between the suspension towers is not bent or improperly installed. The vertical links interchange from side-to-side, so if you want to prove it is (not) the link, try swapping them. If the problem follows the link, it must be the link or stub axle. Randall From goh56agan at comcast.net Sat Jun 21 16:22:36 2008 From: goh56agan at comcast.net (goh56agan at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 22:22:36 +0000 Subject: [TR] brake hose replacement Message-ID: <062120082222.2953.485D7F2C000082E300000B892216527966020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> List, Thanks to all who helped with advice on my steering column bushings. I now have another question about my 1962? TR4. The replacement brake hoses (Moss part 582-018) I bought have tapered fittings at the ends while the originals are straight threaded at the ends. Did I get the wrong hoses? I called the technical help line at Moss and asked if the other brake hose set they have are "straight threaded" but he didn't know. I always have a time ordering parts for my car because the PO's changed a bunch of stuff, and I'm not sure what's original. Does anyone know if Moss part 582-028 is the correct one for my car? BTW I finally was able to get the bushings replaced on my steering column. It took a bigger BFH. Also the pulleys have been replaced with the 1/2" sizes which required a new water pump. The fan and extension hub are gone. So now I'm trying to figure out about an electic fan and alternator. Thanks, Gary O From ray at raysmg.com Sat Jun 21 16:37:07 2008 From: ray at raysmg.com (ray at raysmg.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 15:37:07 -0700 Subject: [TR] Trailer Physics Message-ID: <20080621153707.97231a3d9bcbe86637414a5f2b8ede3b.3bbde720e7.wbe@email.secureserver.net> >After a breakfast stop on a Saturday morning club drive I spotted something >in a shopping center parking lot that looked like a nice photo op. Ha, great photo...careful who you show it to though, someone might try it! Ray Ray McCaleb ray at raysmg.com http://www.raysmg.com From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 21 16:52:54 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 15:52:54 -0700 Subject: [TR] brake hose replacement In-Reply-To: <062120082222.2953.485D7F2C000082E300000B892216527966020E090EC0CA080109@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20080621225255.PJND27427.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > The replacement brake hoses (Moss part > 582-018) I bought have tapered fittings at the ends while the > originals are straight threaded at the ends. Did I get the > wrong hoses? Those are the "braided" hoses rather than originals, and don't fit quite the same as the originals. You should have gotten adaptors for each hose end; and the adaptors are supposed to be "universal fit". There should have been copper sealing washers included, for where the adaptor goes into straight threads rather than a flare fitting. Looked kind of cheesy to me too, but seemed to work OK even during a panic stop or two. Randall From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Jun 21 17:12:13 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 19:12:13 -0400 Subject: [TR] copper washer for Girling Calipers? Message-ID: <00de01c8d3f4$3e2e1eb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I've had a small leak of brake fluid where the brake hose screws into the front brake caliper unit. I've taken the relatively new hose off, cleaned it up, checked the caliper area and re-screwed in, but have yet to check it out for a leak. If it slow leaks this time, I'm wondering about putting a thin copper washer between the hose and caliper unit. In the catalog I see where Lockheed did this on their units (although mine is a Girling). Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 tr3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 698 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Jun 21 17:29:28 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 19:29:28 -0400 Subject: [TR] Plump vs. lifeless wishbone seals Message-ID: <00e501c8d3f6$a6eb8e90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> For the first time ever I've greased my newly rebuilt front end on my TR3. Finally I've seen the usefulness of the (now) plump rubber seals at the outer end of the lower wishbones. Now these seals are plump with grease and even where one broke, I'm confident that by wrapping and supporting it with black electrical tape that it will also do a good job of containing the grease. However, following the diagram in Moss's catalog, I also used the black rubber seals for the INNER end of the lower wishbones. But their is NO grease fittings for these locations. Thus those seals are loose and rather lifeless. Is this the way its suppose to be? Thanks, Paul Dorsey, 60 TR3 (TS71318L) -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 698 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 21 17:36:04 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 16:36:04 -0700 Subject: [TR] Plump vs. lifeless wishbone seals In-Reply-To: <00e501c8d3f6$a6eb8e90$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080621233603.WCLG9879.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall> > However, following the diagram in Moss's catalog, I also > used the black rubber seals for the INNER end of the lower > wishbones. But their is NO grease fittings for these > locations. Thus those seals are loose and rather lifeless. > Is this the way its suppose to be? Should not be "loose"; but they do not get grease to make the seal bulge. The seals only serve to keep dirt and water out of the (self-lubricating) nylon sleeves. Randall From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sat Jun 21 17:55:15 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 16:55:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] copper washer for Girling Calipers? In-Reply-To: <00de01c8d3f4$3e2e1eb0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <20080621235515.BDDL28655.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@randall> > If it slow leaks this time, I'm wondering about putting a > thin copper washer between the hose and caliper unit. In the > catalog I see where Lockheed did this on their units > (although mine is a Girling). It's my belief that the Girling units should have a copper washer as well. Although it's not illustrated, it is listed in the factory parts catalogue (page 58), P/N 107072. TRF has that number cross-referenced to P/N 233220A, which is on sale for $.58 each. But one of these _might_ fit : http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93324 Randall From PACBURROWS at aol.com Sat Jun 21 19:19:50 2008 From: PACBURROWS at aol.com (PACBURROWS at aol.com) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 21:19:50 EDT Subject: [TR] Driving, driving, driving! Message-ID: Hello to fellow Triumph owners; We did it! Thanks to Frank Fisher and his son as well as an emergency call to Randall, I got to start and drive my newly restored 1957 TR-3 small mouth TS 16810 L. I have been working on this project for nearly 3 years and today I got to drive it up and down my street. I found I have a leaky carburetor and the engine block drain is leaking and thats all so far. WOW! Thanks also to all of you that replied to my questions during this restoration. IT IS FINISHED!!!!! Now to enjoy the fruits of my labor. See you on the road. Paul Burrows Temecula CA 1957 TR 3 TS 16810 L **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From jmwagner at greenheart.com Sat Jun 21 20:59:44 2008 From: jmwagner at greenheart.com (Justin Wagner) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 19:59:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] [Fwd: Justin: "Remembernig the Fallen"] Message-ID: <485DC020.8000006@greenheart.com> Not Triumph related.... Powerful video.... --Justin Remembering the Fallen http://www.militarytimes.com/hancock From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jun 21 21:01:39 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 23:01:39 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spity Diff rear bushings In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <485D8853.13892.2EC8C3E1@localhost> On 21 Jun 2008 at 16:29, marty sukey wrote: > Pulled the differential out of the Spitfire today to replace the > mounting bushings. Crap, what a job. The only way I was able to > get one out was to cut through the side of the sleeve. Which bushings would that be, the ones at the rear holding the lateral bolt? When I did mine some years ago I had to cut the bolt out with a hacksaw blade because it was frozen to the inside of the bushings. Then I removed the bushings by cutting out the rubber and using a hacksaw blade from the inside of the bushing to cut into the outer rim. Putting the new ones in was easy though once the hole was cleaned up. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jun 21 23:13:07 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 23:13:07 -0600 Subject: [TR] Driving, driving, driving! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01c8d426$a94227f0$6401a8c0@sniffer> Congratulations Paul, you are an inspiration to all of us still looking at a gragare full of parts. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PACBURROWS at aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 7:20 PM To: Triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Driving, driving, driving! Hello to fellow Triumph owners; We did it! Thanks to Frank Fisher and his son as well as an emergency call to Randall, I got to start and drive my newly restored 1957 TR-3 small mouth TS 16810 L. I have been working on this project for nearly 3 years and today I got to drive it up and down my street. I found I have a leaky carburetor and the engine block drain is leaking and thats all so far. WOW! Thanks also to all of you that replied to my questions during this restoration. IT IS FINISHED!!!!! Now to enjoy the fruits of my labor. See you on the road. Paul Burrows Temecula CA 1957 TR 3 TS 16810 L **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date: 6/21/2008 9:27 AM From hdrider570 at peoplepc.com Sun Jun 22 14:30:33 2008 From: hdrider570 at peoplepc.com (hdrider570 at peoplepc.com) Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 13:30:33 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cleaning out the new TR7 References: Message-ID: <000601c8d4a6$d4a80560$b5b05545@DFKQ4L31> I was cleaning out my new (to me) TR7 and found a 1999 Triumphest pin along with a Hotel receipt from San Ramon (Where Triumphest was held that year). The name on the receipt is James Cox from San Mateo (at least in 1999) and I was wondering if it was anyone on the list. Edward Hamer Petaluma CA From jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net Sun Jun 22 19:06:11 2008 From: jerrold.letourneau at verizon.net (Jerrold Le Tourneau) Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 21:06:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] I broke the electrical system - I let the smoke get out of the line. Message-ID: <485EF703.7050004@verizon.net> Hello - Appreciate all the helpful advice in helping me get my GT6 going again. After I replaced the starter with a rebuilt unit and still had the same problem of the starter just spinning and not engaging the flywheel. I was jumping the battery with a charger that has boost setting for starting. Still couldn't get the starter to engage and after several attempts couldn't coax any signs of life from the ignition system. I think my battery booster died in the process because I know longer had a booster reading on the unit. So I bit the bullet and bought a new battery. That did it , the starter engaged the flywheel, a couple of shots of starting fluid in the carbs and the car came to life. It blew out a lot of smoke -- Marvel Mystery oil and purred sweetly after warming up. I ran the car for a bit and took it to the gas station to treat it fresh fuel. Brought it back home where upon the car decided to die in my driveway. I could not get it to start again. Thought maybe it was a loose battery cable so I popped the bonnet and checked everything. All seemed tight but I did notice the positive terminal on the battery was rather warm. When I tried to start the car I saw a puff of smoke from the positive battery terminal. So I disconnected it - damn connector was too hot to touch! Not sure if it's related but when I was driving I noticed my temperature gauge was pegged HOT immediately after starting. Usually the temp gauge shows the temp at about 3/4 hot but today it was off the scale. So, it appears I have ignition gremlin to chase. I am guessing the solenoid for I am not sure what else would cause the battery terminal to get so hot. And I mean burning hot, makes me fear that I am going to have an electrical fire. Any ideas? Jerry 68 GT6 Mk1 That's not an oil leak under my car. It's only marking it's territory. From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 22 19:16:05 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 18:16:05 -0700 Subject: [TR] I broke the electrical system - I let the smoke get out of the line. In-Reply-To: <485EF703.7050004@verizon.net> Message-ID: <20080623011604.DVNS7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > So, it appears I have ignition gremlin to chase. I am > guessing the solenoid for I am not sure what else would cause > the battery terminal to get so hot. Bad connection right there, Jerry. Get one of these : http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94450 (should be available wherever car parts & tools are sold) and brush both the clamp and the battery post until they are bright. Also check that the ears of the clamp are not touching, and that the clamp goes down on the post until the end of the post sticks out of the top slightly. This is probably also a good time to remove the bolt & nut and clean up the threads (or replace them). Smear some Vaseline on the bolt and on the mating surfaces of the clamp & post before reassembling. Randall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 22 22:44:07 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 23:44:07 -0500 Subject: [TR] Is this TR3 'extra sporty'? References: <00c501c8d350$af59ee10$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <009e01c8d4eb$dca43050$7d15a8c0@garage.local> imho i'd avoid this one with all the comments about bondo and the dpo who didn't restore it correctly, like painting the engine compartment black. ----- Original Message ----- From: "dorpaul" To: "list Triumph" Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 10:41 PM Subject: [TR] Is this TR3 'extra sporty'? > List, > Like alot of folks, I watch ebay for TR3 items. It seems like this one > looks > 'extra sporty' from the front. Is this correct? Why is it I'm thinking > it > looks 'extra sporty'? > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Triumph-TR3-1959-Triumph-TR3-Restored-Classic_ > W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ39Q3a1Q7c65Q3a10QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZ > item290240130090QQitemZ290240130090 > > Thanks, > Paul Dorsey, 60 TR3 From pethier at comcast.net Mon Jun 23 12:42:05 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 18:42:05 +0000 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design Message-ID: <062320081842.5791.485FEE7D000152FC0000169F22120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> From: "Nolan" > A trailer sways because its nose is pointing one way, and then the other. > This can be from weak trailer tire sidewalls (low tire pressure), sloppy > trailer suspension (common), wiggly hitch mount, and inadequate tires on the > tow vehicle (very common). > > Various factors can increase the swaying tendancy. The shorter the distance > between the hitch and the trailer axle(s), the more likely the trailwer will > sway. As well extending the load out from the centroid of the trailer > axle(s). Distance from the hitch to the tow vehicle rear axle rapidly > increases leverage on the tow vehicle tires, creating lots of neat sway > problems. > > The 10% tongue weight rule of thumb is simply a means of helping ensure you > don't load the trailer in a manner that exasurbates the swaying tendancy. > Far more important is to ensure the causes of sway are addressed. Many an > otherwise stable trailer sways because the tow vehicle has weak sidewall > tires and low tire pressure, and I'm not talking about just the rear tires. Absolutely. Truck tires instead of car tires on the tow vehicle helps, too. Stiffer sidewalls. Maybe a Panhard rod if your leaf-spring truck has side-flex issues. When you start a left turn in your truck, your trailer actually steers right. Short truck overhang and long trailer-wheel distance minimizes this. That's why fifth-wheels tow so nicely: When you start a left turn in your truck, your trailer actually steers left. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From kvacek at ameritech.net Mon Jun 23 12:46:44 2008 From: kvacek at ameritech.net (Karl Vacek) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 13:46:44 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 trailer towing/design References: <062320081842.5791.485FEE7D000152FC0000169F22120207849D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: Why are almost all trailer tires now radials ? That's the one place I really want stiff-walled bias-ply tires, but it's almost impossible to find anything but a radial in trailer sizes nowadays. Karl Vacek '16 Model T Ford Touring '40 Stearman PT-17 '46 Piper J-3 Cub '64 Triumph TR4 '78 MG Midget '99 Mustang Cobra convertible etc..... > Absolutely. Truck tires instead of car tires on the tow vehicle helps, > too. Stiffer sidewalls. > > Maybe a Panhard rod if your leaf-spring truck has side-flex issues. > > When you start a left turn in your truck, your trailer actually steers > right. Short truck overhang and long trailer-wheel distance minimizes > this. > > That's why fifth-wheels tow so nicely: When you start a left turn in your > truck, your trailer actually steers left. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA From kinneyjr at msn.com Mon Jun 23 15:06:08 2008 From: kinneyjr at msn.com (Jeremy Kinney) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 17:06:08 -0400 Subject: [TR] FS: 77 Triumph Spitfire 1500 w/overdrive in VA Message-ID: I am posting this for a friend who lives in Winchester, VA. Please contact them directly if you are interested. NFI. **************** 77 CA Triumph Spitfire 1500, low miles on late 80s restoration w/ electric overdrive, rebuilt eng, transmission, rear end, new tires & wheels, electric fuel pump, new rag top & interior @ time of resto. BRG w/ tan interior. $8000. email for further details and pictures: kalikiano108 at yahoo.com _________________________________________________________________ Introducing Live Search cashback . It's search that pays you back! http://search.live.com/cashback/?&pkw=form=MIJAAF/publ=HMTGL/crea=introsrchca shback From ktnkt at comcast.net Mon Jun 23 16:00:38 2008 From: ktnkt at comcast.net (KT) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 18:00:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] I broke the electrical system Message-ID: <48601D06.9020208@comcast.net> Check the negative cable/connection.......... KT From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Jun 23 20:31:18 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 19:31:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] I broke the electrical system References: Message-ID: <005c01c8d5a2$61f82610$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> To add what Randall noted another possibility is the battery connector itself. I have seen a high resistance develop between the battery cable and the connector. High current flow through high resistance = heat. If battery cable has the molded type connector, cable replacement will be necessary. Good luck. Bob From ambritts at bellsouth.net Mon Jun 23 18:58:51 2008 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 20:58:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Chrome facilities Message-ID: <040901c8d595$787499d0$6401a8c0@STATION6> Hi All, Can anyone identify a good chrome shop in the Spokane, WA area. Thanks, Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Tue Jun 24 12:23:18 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 11:23:18 -0700 Subject: [TR] Chrome facilities In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00b201c8d627$60dc5460$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Alex, I'm looking for one in the CDA / Spokane area too! If you're interested in combining our stuff to get re-chromed, we may be able to get better pricing... let me know if you're interested in doing this. Brian 308gtsi at roadrunner.com 67 TR4a ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 20:58:51 -0400 From: "Alex" Subject: [TR] Chrome facilities To: "Triumph List" , "Sixpack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <040901c8d595$787499d0$6401a8c0 at STATION6> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi All, Can anyone identify a good chrome shop in the Spokane, WA area. Thanks, Alex Manzo 59 TR3A 72 TR6 ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Triumphs mailing list Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs End of Triumphs Digest, Vol 2, Issue 307 **************************************** From maya2blue at juno.com Tue Jun 24 14:00:47 2008 From: maya2blue at juno.com (maya2blue at juno.com) Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:00:47 -0500 Subject: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop Message-ID: <20080624.150047.3932.0.maya2blue@juno.com> Greetings, Does anyone know the weight of a finished factory hardtop? I am looking at various "hoisting systems" to lift my hardtop off of the car and store it (using the hoisting system) over my car but near the ceiling. Most systems have a weight limit and I have no way to weigh the thing! Many thanks your help, and any suggestions re a hoist system for a '78 spitifer hardtop Harve Harve Thorn (NASS #79) 531 Amen Corner ('78 1500 Spitfire) Fayetteville, AR (looking for a "nice" GT6) 72701 USA 479.443.0818 evenings or lv msg ____________________________________________________________ Click here and enhance your romance with the perfect honeymoon vacation. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mtDaXIHGeEEXgviz7qgNnWT3k7RLlwS3JG4Qjr4gi1sOKEp/ From markvaden at gmail.com Tue Jun 24 15:26:30 2008 From: markvaden at gmail.com (Mark Vaden) Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 14:26:30 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel Camber & alignment TR3A In-Reply-To: <000801c8d2f1$eb24ade0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> References: <000801c8d2f1$eb24ade0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <285b8a860806241426w11a72e4fq2bbb52ce72412064@mail.gmail.com> Are you sure they did not say too much castor? My TR4 street car castor was wrong on both sides of the car. One side was due to a bent vertical link, and the other side was due to a bent frame. -Mark From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Tue Jun 24 18:24:27 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 20:24:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 Message-ID: <24802505.1214353467478.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Hi folks, As I understand it, Triumph meant for the coolant tap on the engine block to be turned off in summer. I'm afraid of turning it off because the back cylinder may develop hot spots. That, and in emergencies it is nice to employ the heater core for extra engine cooloing. Plus, if the heater core is isloated for any length of time I'm worried it might act up. Therefore, a major source of cabin/cockpit heat for me is the heater core, even without the heater fan on. I'm thinking of teeing off the tap - one line, with a on/off valve, would route back to the cooling inlet at the front of the engine and the other line, also with on/off valve, would go to the heater core. That way, I could decide in the morning whether to have the heater core active or not. Hope that makes sense. Anyhoos, it looks to my non-plumber mind that there is 3 different plumbing options: Galvanized iron pipe Brass pipe Compression-fitting brass pipe. None of these options has both a valve and a T-junction. The guy at Home Despot says I need to learn how to "sweat" joints but I don't think I'm up for that. Any thoughts on this? Cheers, Adrian (Hot 'n Bothered in NC) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 24 22:56:24 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 21:56:24 -0700 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 In-Reply-To: <24802505.1214353467478.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <20080625045624.RXQM7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > I'm afraid of turning it off because the back cylinder may > develop hot spots. Honestly, I think having it on is more likely to cause problems. The normal water flow is through the head and down into the block. By tapping out of the head, you are reducing the flow around the #4 liner, which is a common trouble spot (mostly because it tends to get full of silt). > None of these options has both a valve and a T-junction. The > guy at Home Despot says I need to learn how to "sweat" joints > but I don't think I'm up for that. > > Any thoughts on this? Quit shopping at Home Despot ! MMC has valves and tees in a wide variety of materials ... your biggest problem will be deciding which ones to use http://www.mcmaster.com/ But since you already have a mixture of brass and cast iron, I wouldn't worry about it. Randall From mdporter at dfn.com Tue Jun 24 23:14:09 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:14:09 -0600 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 In-Reply-To: <20080625045624.RXQM7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <20080625045624.RXQM7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <4861D421.9070000@dfn.com> Randall wrote: > > Honestly, I think having it on is more likely to cause problems. The normal > water flow is through the head and down into the block. Just for clarification, the water pump outlet is to the block, first, with coolant flowing up to the head and out through the thermostat housing (for verification, see the coolant flow diagram in the factory manual). Other than that, what Randall says about #4 is correct. The angle of the engine causes silt to settle at the rear of the engine, and, additionally, #4 is closest to the firewall, inhibiting airflow around the back of the engine. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Jun 24 23:14:39 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 22:14:39 -0700 Subject: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop In-Reply-To: <20080624.150047.3932.0.maya2blue@juno.com> Message-ID: <20080625051444.OKRZ27427.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> > Many thanks your help, and any suggestions re a hoist system > for a '78 spitifer hardtop No idea what it weighs, but I'm sure it's less than 500 pounds. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45076 For my TR3A, I used some flat iron strap (from Home Depot) to bend and drill 3 'hooks' to go under the door openings on each side, and the center of the back rail. Linked them together with cotton rope, tied to a single rope that goes over a pulley made from a baby buggy wheel and fastened to the rafters with more strap iron. Then it's tied off to some nails in the side wall. Still hanging there 20 years later. Randall From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jun 25 04:52:41 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 06:52:41 EDT Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3, Revised Message-ID: When I disassembled my 3A motor I found that the bypass hose was plugged with a 3/4" copper end cap, and I understand that this is not an uncommon practice. What is the purpose of this and since I live in Florida (hot), is this necessary? I have reassembled without it, but of course, very easy to include if necessary. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 25 06:52:44 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 05:52:44 -0700 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 In-Reply-To: <4861D421.9070000@dfn.com> Message-ID: <20080625125244.UJLO7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > Just for clarification, the water pump outlet is to the > block, first, with coolant flowing up to the head and out > through the thermostat housing D'oh ! Yes, of course Michael is right. Don't know what I was thinking. Randall From adcronin at ameritech.net Wed Jun 25 07:05:21 2008 From: adcronin at ameritech.net (A Daniel Cronin) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 06:05:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop Message-ID: <602227.73441.qm@web81302.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Have not actually weighed my hardtop, but without window in and liner, I move it all around by myself, horse it into position for fitting (this is a restoration project at this point, so not in finish paint) and out of the way for storage. Can't weigh more than about 60 to 70 pounds. Planning & Development Services A. Daniel Cronin 248 761-2673 ----- Original Message ---- From: Randall To: maya2blue at juno.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 1:14:39 AM Subject: Re: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop > Many thanks your help, and any suggestions re a hoist system > for a '78 spitifer hardtop No idea what it weighs, but I'm sure it's less than 500 pounds. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45076 For my TR3A, I used some flat iron strap (from Home Depot) to bend and drill 3 'hooks' to go under the door openings on each side, and the center of the back rail. Linked them together with cotton rope, tied to a single rope that goes over a pulley made from a baby buggy wheel and fastened to the rafters with more strap iron. Then it's tied off to some nails in the side wall. Still hanging there 20 years later. Randall _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as adcronin at ameritech.net http://www.team.net/archive From eoot at citlink.net Wed Jun 25 07:07:06 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 09:07:06 -0400 Subject: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop References: <20080625051444.OKRZ27427.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <002b01c8d6c4$5ecebbc0$670a0a0a@MyComputski> I got this from Sears. Works great. A one man job to lift or lower. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00646153000P ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: ; Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 1:14 AM Subject: Re: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop >> Many thanks your help, and any suggestions re a hoist system >> for a '78 spitifer hardtop > > No idea what it weighs, but I'm sure it's less than 500 pounds. > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45076 > > For my TR3A, I used some flat iron strap (from Home Depot) to bend and > drill > 3 'hooks' to go under the door openings on each side, and the center of > the > back rail. Linked them together with cotton rope, tied to a single rope > that goes over a pulley made from a baby buggy wheel and fastened to the > rafters with more strap iron. Then it's tied off to some nails in the > side > wall. Still hanging there 20 years later. > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Wed Jun 25 07:33:10 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 09:33:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need caliper dust cover cleared up Message-ID: <003101c8d6c8$0336b7a0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Unfortunetly I tried to bleed my TR3's brakes with one of the brake pads left out of it's caliper. this resulted in that particular caliper's piston popping out. As bad luck would have it, I punctured the outmost dust cover while trying to mount it properly in the caliper. Thus I am in need of one dust cover. BTW, The piston's seal is new. Because I have been down this road before, I have several 'proably' unusable ones of different makes and sizes. I wonder if someone can tell me which dust cover is the proper one for my '60 TR3A (TS71318). HAS ANYONE HAVE A DUST COVER THAT THEY WOULD SELL ME?? Contact me offlist Ruined round dust covers from my collection say: "Girling D.S.L. 11 64320141" another is stamped with: "Made in England NS 1 FF" The other correct rubber dust cover which sits already mounted properly in this particular caliper says: "Girling D.S.L. 9 64320141" The Girling Caliper has the following numbers cast on it's sides: 6(?5)4325125 6?A?372446 64325123 GA 17348 others pending" Thanks, Paul Dorsey -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 727 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From flashtr3 at cox.net Wed Jun 25 08:10:36 2008 From: flashtr3 at cox.net (Ibsen Dow) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 07:10:36 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel Camber & alignment TR3A References: <000801c8d2f1$eb24ade0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> <285b8a860806241426w11a72e4fq2bbb52ce72412064@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001201c8d6cd$3d75cff0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Hi Mark, The shop indicated to me that the slight drift to the left was due to the camber on the left side was 2 degrees positive and right side was .5 degree positive. He definitely said camber. He thinks that the ball joint on the left side needs extra washers to bring the alignment within spec. I think the problem like you, lies in the that vertical link may have a slight bend. I have an extra vertical link that needs only a new stub axle. I thought if compared the two, I might be able see if there was a bend. Regards, Ibsen ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Vaden To: Ibsen Dow Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2008 2:26 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Wheel Camber & alignment TR3A Are you sure they did not say too much castor? My TR4 street car castor was wrong on both sides of the car. One side was due to a bent vertical link, and the other side was due to a bent frame. -Mark From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 25 08:56:48 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 07:56:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Wheel Camber & alignment TR3A In-Reply-To: <001201c8d6cd$3d75cff0$7c186c44@DowKKXX5RXWD9> Message-ID: <20080625145649.WQRW7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > The shop indicated to me that the slight drift to the left > was due to the camber on the left side was 2 degrees positive > and right side was .5 degree positive. > > He definitely said camber. He thinks that the ball joint on > the left side needs extra washers to bring the alignment > within spec. But adding shims to the ball joint is going to take the camber (as well as the steering axis inclination) more positive ! Did he measure SAI (also known as King Pin Inclination) ? That's one way to distinguish if the damage is to the vertical link/stub axle or not; since a bent link or axle won't change SAI but a displaced pivot will. Randall From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Jun 25 10:40:13 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 09:40:13 -0700 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3, Revised In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: We went through a LOT of stuff trying to cool down Casper, high output water pump, aluminum radiator, flush and refill with WaterWetter/ NoRoison ... all of which helped, but it was not until we replaced the thermostat with one of the "as original" repros ($45), that it all came together. Now his temp goes to 185 F and stays there. Just last weekend we drove from Wallace to Palo Alto over the Altamont Past at 105 F OAT and his temp never went above 190. When we had to pass through downtown Palo Alto (stop light every block) it went to 210 ... but as soon as we hit clean air, back to 185 ... I have made my own conclusion that using a thermostat that controls the bypass is a major factor in a cool running TR3 ... Hope this helps >When I disassembled my 3A motor I found that the bypass hose was plugged >with a 3/4" copper end cap, and I understand that this is not an uncommon >practice. What is the purpose of this and since I live in Florida >(hot), is this >necessary? I have reassembled without it, but of course, very easy >to include >if necessary. > >David Lylis >69 TR6 CC26160L -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From amcewen2 at cogeco.ca Wed Jun 25 12:15:57 2008 From: amcewen2 at cogeco.ca (amcewen2 at cogeco.ca) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 14:15:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 Message-ID: <48628b5d.c0.c1.32147@cogeco.ca> > As I understand it, Triumph meant for the coolant tap on the engine block > to be turned off in summer. > I'm afraid of turning it off because the back cylinder may develop hot > spots. That, and in emergencies it is nice to employ the heater core for > extra engine cooloing. Plus, if the heater core is isloated for any > length of time I'm worried it might act up. I turn the tap off in May and open it up late Sept, I couldn't imagine driving with the heater core live in the meat of the summer. Cabin heat (even when the engine isn't reading truly hot) is the only thing that would make me consider selling mine. If the engine is getting hot I stop at a bar until it and I are cool. From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Wed Jun 25 12:24:38 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 11:24:38 -0700 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3, Revised In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <59193ECC1B85405AB52569C2C885C990@GeoPC> This is a common (albeit controversial) method of blocking the bypass hose when using a typical auto-store replacement thermostat. The original style tstat Bill mentioned has a sleeve that blocks the bypass as it opens. Modern-style tsats lack such a sleeve but (particularly in climates where cold mornings do not occur) owners often use the copper cap you describe. I use one but also have a 3/16" hole drilled thru it to permit some flow rather than have hot coolant burst on the scene all at once when the tstat opens. Can't swear it helps -- can't swear any of the things I have done help -- but the engine does not over heat in Tucson summer driving and everyday mountain climbs. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: > When I disassembled my 3A motor I found that the bypass hose was plugged > with a 3/4" copper end cap, and I understand that this is not an uncommon > practice. What is the purpose of this... From eoot at citlink.net Wed Jun 25 12:36:10 2008 From: eoot at citlink.net (Ed Oot) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 14:36:10 -0400 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 References: <48628b5d.c0.c1.32147@cogeco.ca> Message-ID: <009b01c8d6f2$572c2640$670a0a0a@MyComputski> Had the same problem. Pulled the carpet and covered everything with heat/sound barrier material. Cockpit stays comfortable even with the heater valve open. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 2:15 PM Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 >> As I understand it, Triumph meant for the coolant tap on the engine block >> to be turned off in summer. >> I'm afraid of turning it off because the back cylinder may develop hot >> spots. That, and in emergencies it is nice to employ the heater core for >> extra engine cooloing. Plus, if the heater core is isloated for any >> length of time I'm worried it might act up. > > I turn the tap off in May and open it up late Sept, I couldn't imagine > driving with the heater core live in the meat of > the summer. Cabin heat (even when the engine isn't reading truly hot) is > the only thing that would make me consider > selling mine. If the engine is getting hot I stop at a bar until it and I > are cool. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as eoot at citlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From triumph66 at gmail.com Wed Jun 25 14:41:15 2008 From: triumph66 at gmail.com (Ted) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 16:41:15 -0400 Subject: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop In-Reply-To: <002b01c8d6c4$5ecebbc0$670a0a0a@MyComputski> References: <20080625051444.OKRZ27427.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> <002b01c8d6c4$5ecebbc0$670a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: good idea for how to use a bike hoist, see Nashbar whos 55 lbs hoist is $25 on sale - http://tinyurl.com/6kpn9d On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 9:07 AM, Ed Oot wrote: > I got this from Sears. Works great. A one man job to lift or lower. > > http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00646153000P > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randall" > To: ; > Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 1:14 AM > Subject: Re: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop > > >>> Many thanks your help, and any suggestions re a hoist system >>> for a '78 spitifer hardtop >> >> No idea what it weighs, but I'm sure it's less than 500 pounds. >> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45076 >> >> For my TR3A, I used some flat iron strap (from Home Depot) to bend and >> drill >> 3 'hooks' to go under the door openings on each side, and the center of >> the >> back rail. Linked them together with cotton rope, tied to a single rope >> that goes over a pulley made from a baby buggy wheel and fastened to the >> rafters with more strap iron. Then it's tied off to some nails in the >> side >> wall. Still hanging there 20 years later. >> >> Randall >> _______________________________________________ >-- T.L.L. 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO www.triumphowners.com/967 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car From adrianjones747 at earthlink.net Wed Jun 25 16:21:04 2008 From: adrianjones747 at earthlink.net (Adrian Jones) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 18:21:04 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [TR] Keeping cool - the end Message-ID: <2438826.1214432465042.JavaMail.root@mswamui-chipeau.atl.sa.earthlink.net> OK folks, Thanks for all the responses. Just think, I've been roasting all these years thinking I'm doing the engine some good by keeping that tap open when in reality it may have been hurting things. Ah well, at least I have been spared making up some half-assed plumbing job that would probably leak all over the place. Ha! Thanks Randall also for the link to McMasters - wow they have everything! The plan now is to close the tap but open it up now and again just to keep the (now hated) core happy. I've already added one of those bottles of stuff that lubricates the water pump - I think the bottle said it also inhibits rust. Maybe that'll help keep the core in good condition. I'll also invest in one of those skirted thermostats and make sure the bypass hose is not plugged. I've installed a "yellow" plastic fan (runs backwards but apparently not much loss in cooling effect) and insatlled a "pusher" electric fan that I turn on in traffic. So hopefully I'll not need the extra cooling from the core. We'll see! Cheers from North Carolina Adrian TS 58324 From MMoore8425 at aol.com Wed Jun 25 19:22:41 2008 From: MMoore8425 at aol.com (MMoore8425 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:22:41 EDT Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3, Revised Message-ID: In a message dated 6/25/2008 9:43:22 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, anabil007 at comcast.net writes: We went through a LOT of stuff trying to cool down Casper, high output water pump, aluminum radiator, flush and refill with WaterWetter/ NoRoison ... all of which helped, but it was not until we replaced the thermostat with one of the "as original" repros ($45), that it all came together. Now his temp goes to 185 F and stays there. Just last weekend we drove from Wallace to Palo Alto over the Altamont Past at 105 F OAT and his temp never went above 190. When we had to pass through downtown Palo Alto (stop light every block) it went to 210 ... but as soon as we hit clean air, back to 185 ... I have made my own conclusion that using a thermostat that controls the bypass is a major factor in a cool running TR3 ... Hope this helps Bill, that is exactly my experience, Mike Moore **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From terryrs at comcast.net Wed Jun 25 20:16:48 2008 From: terryrs at comcast.net (terryrs at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 02:16:48 +0000 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3, Revised Message-ID: <062620080216.22729.4862FC1000076819000058C922165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> May I interject that the issue with TR's overheating is not one I've experienced in NH. I think these cars have intuitive engine memory of New England winters.... No Triumph that hates cold as much as its owner complains about heat during the summer, after a season of sub freezing winds. Maybe that's too much personnification..... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire -------------- Original message -------------- From: MMoore8425 at aol.com > In a message dated 6/25/2008 9:43:22 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > anabil007 at comcast.net writes: > > We went through a LOT of stuff trying to cool down Casper, high > output water pump, aluminum radiator, flush and refill with > WaterWetter/ NoRoison ... all of which helped, but it was not until > we replaced the thermostat with one of the "as original" repros > ($45), that it all came together. Now his temp goes to 185 F and > stays there. > Just last weekend we drove from Wallace to Palo Alto over the > Altamont Past at 105 F OAT and his temp never went above 190. When > we had to pass through downtown Palo Alto (stop light every block) it > went to 210 ... but as soon as we hit clean air, back to 185 ... I > have made my own conclusion that using a thermostat that controls > the bypass is a major factor in a cool running TR3 ... From BearTranserv at aol.com Wed Jun 25 20:33:21 2008 From: BearTranserv at aol.com (BearTranserv at aol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 22:33:21 EDT Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 Message-ID: In a message dated 6/24/2008 6:24:43 P.M. Mountain Daylight Time, adrianjones747 at earthlink.net writes: The guy at Home Despot says I need to learn how to "sweat" joints but I don't think I'm up for that. I can't comment on how your set up will work, but sweating joints is dead easy. Just buy one of the brushes specially made to clean the end of the pipe and the inside of the fittings. Smear it with flux, assemble the parts, heat it with a propane torch, and touch solder to the joint. The solder will magically flow into the joint and seal the parts together. Robert B. Houston Texan in New Mexico 63 TR4 As he stared at her ample bosom, he daydreamed of the dual Stromberg carburetors in his vintage Triumph, highly functional yet pleasingly formed, perched prominently on top of the intake manifold, aching for experienced hands, the small knurled caps of the oil dampeners begging to be inspected and adjusted as described in chapter seven of the shop manual. **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jun 25 20:35:42 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:35:42 -0500 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 References: Message-ID: <001201c8d735$74551270$7d15a8c0@garage.local> even easier buy the joints that already have the solder in them. very easy. and i thought it was chateau depot . . . > > The guy at Home Despot says I need to learn how to "sweat" joints but I > don't think I'm up for that. > > > > > > I can't comment on how your set up will work, but sweating joints is dead > easy. Just buy one of the brushes specially made to clean the end of > the > pipe and the inside of the fittings. Smear it with flux, assemble the > parts, > heat it with a propane torch, and touch solder to the joint. The solder > will > magically flow into the joint and seal the parts together. From pdonnel1 at san.rr.com Wed Jun 25 21:24:00 2008 From: pdonnel1 at san.rr.com (John & Pat Donnelly) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 20:24:00 -0700 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 In-Reply-To: <20080625045624.RXQM7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <24802505.1214353467478.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <20080625045624.RXQM7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <000301c8d73c$142f6880$3c8e3980$@rr.com> Randall wrote>>> which is a common trouble spot (mostly because it tends to get full of silt). --------------- If you've rebuilt a TRactor engine you've seen the "silt". On my engine it clogged up the drain valve. So, how do you keep the "silt" to a minimum? What causes it? Can it be reduced? Eliminated? Thanks! Johnnie From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Wed Jun 25 21:37:09 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 20:37:09 -0700 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3 In-Reply-To: <000301c8d73c$142f6880$3c8e3980$@rr.com> Message-ID: <20080626033709.JRTP7074.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > So, how do you keep the "silt" to a minimum? What causes it? > Can it be reduced? Eliminated? I believe it's mostly flakes of rust from inside the engine block, tho some of it might be from using tap water (if you do). Best way to control it IMO is to change coolant every 2 years (or 5 if you use a product like No-Rosion), whether you drive the car or not. At each change, open the drain valve and flush the water jacket thoroughly. I've seen products that amount to a filter screen to go in a radiator hose, but never tried them myself. Eg, http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/sctefba.html Randall From cfmtr3a at verizon.net Wed Jun 25 21:40:38 2008 From: cfmtr3a at verizon.net (Carl TR) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 23:40:38 -0400 Subject: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop In-Reply-To: References: <20080625051444.OKRZ27427.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@randall> <002b01c8d6c4$5ecebbc0$670a0a0a@MyComputski> Message-ID: Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95803 $10 regular - on sale frequently for around $6. Car ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ted" To: "Ed Oot" Cc: ; "Randall" ; Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 4:41 PM Subject: Re: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop > good idea for how to use a bike hoist, see Nashbar whos 55 lbs hoist > is $25 on sale - http://tinyurl.com/6kpn9d > > On Wed, Jun 25, 2008 at 9:07 AM, Ed Oot wrote: >> I got this from Sears. Works great. A one man job to lift or lower. >> >> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00646153000P >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Randall" >> To: ; >> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 1:14 AM >> Subject: Re: [TR] weight of a finished factory hardtop >> >> >>>> Many thanks your help, and any suggestions re a hoist system >>>> for a '78 spitifer hardtop >>> >>> No idea what it weighs, but I'm sure it's less than 500 pounds. >>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45076 >>> >>> For my TR3A, I used some flat iron strap (from Home Depot) to bend and >>> drill >>> 3 'hooks' to go under the door openings on each side, and the center of >>> the >>> back rail. Linked them together with cotton rope, tied to a single rope >>> that goes over a pulley made from a baby buggy wheel and fastened to the >>> rafters with more strap iron. Then it's tied off to some nails in the >>> side >>> wall. Still hanging there 20 years later. >>> >>> Randall >>> _______________________________________________ >>-- > T.L.L. > 1966 TR4A CTC 73139 LO > www.triumphowners.com/967 > 1967 TR4A CT 77197 L project car > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as cfmtr3a at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From triumphs at consolidated.net Wed Jun 25 21:44:08 2008 From: triumphs at consolidated.net (Ken Gano palm top) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 22:44:08 -0500 Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3, Revised In-Reply-To: <062620080216.22729.4862FC1000076819000058C922165662769C9D979D9D0A9B@comcast.net> Message-ID: Terry says: Maybe that's too much personnification..... Terry Smith, '59 TR3A (TS 58667) New Hampshire You mean they are NOT persons. I use to swear that mine had eyes. When it saw a two-story building (i.e. in town), it was time to overheat :) Kg From allegrorover at mac.com Wed Jun 25 23:05:23 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 23:05:23 -0600 Subject: [TR] Tranny changeout Message-ID: <2AE12E4D-4DE7-41D8-85B4-0CF07ABFCC44@mac.com> List, Just a note to let you all know what evolved through the Toyota tranny changeout. I ordered and received a rebuilt transmission (W-58) from Kormex, they were at $400 for a rebuilt, very cooperative and friendly. The original supplier really wasn't interested in helping me out at all. After installation of the tranny I took the driveshaft to six states in Salt Lake City and they balanced it, $30. I drove the car with the tranny cover off and could see the driveshaft clearance and when I decelerated the driveshaft would move closer to the rear seal. I removed the driveshaft again and took it back to six states and had them shorten it 5/8" and make it one straight shaft, $40. Car runs great and I am feeling very comfortable that I won't have the same problem again. See you at Yipsilanti Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com From Dave1massey at cs.com Thu Jun 26 06:22:36 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 08:22:36 EDT Subject: [TR] Keeping cool in a TR3, Revised Message-ID: In a message dated 6/25/2008 10:44:31 PM Central Daylight Time, triumphs at consolidated.net writes: > You mean they are NOT persons. I use to swear that mine had eyes. When it > saw a two-story building (i.e. in town), it was time to overheat :) > Not only that, they are telepathic. They wait until you start to think you solved the problem before they act up again. Dave From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jun 26 06:26:12 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 08:26:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] Tranny changeout In-Reply-To: <2AE12E4D-4DE7-41D8-85B4-0CF07ABFCC44@mac.com> References: <2AE12E4D-4DE7-41D8-85B4-0CF07ABFCC44@mac.com> Message-ID: <000301c8d787$d4550e80$210110ac@bobspc> Tony, Glad to hear that you're back on the road. I like your little impromptu test that showed how the driveshaft can move in toward the rear seal. Where you able to get a car tranny from Komex? I talked to them last year and all they had at the time were truck trannys. If you got a truck one, how low is 1st gear and do you notice the lower ratio? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Anthony Cascio Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 1:05 AM To: email list Subject: [TR] Tranny changeout List, Just a note to let you all know what evolved through the Toyota tranny changeout. I ordered and received a rebuilt transmission (W-58) from Kormex, they were at $400 for a rebuilt, very cooperative and friendly. The original supplier really wasn't interested in helping me out at all. After installation of the tranny I took the driveshaft to six states in Salt Lake City and they balanced it, $30. I drove the car with the tranny cover off and could see the driveshaft clearance and when I decelerated the driveshaft would move closer to the rear seal. I removed the driveshaft again and took it back to six states and had them shorten it 5/8" and make it one straight shaft, $40. Car runs great and I am feeling very comfortable that I won't have the same problem again. See you at Yipsilanti Jeanne & Tony allegrorover at mac.com This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.131 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1519 - Release Date: 6/25/2008 4:13 PM From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Jun 26 07:57:16 2008 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 09:57:16 -0400 Subject: [TR] NATC 2008: VTR/NASS Spitfire Rebuild Message-ID: Posted for Geof Bush. Long looked upon as the entry level Triumph, the Spitfire has been popular for a many years. Its popularity and affordability made it the longest running Triumph production (1962-1980) and the largest production numbers (314,332) of any Triumph produced. The North American Spitfire Squadron (NASS) is sponsoring the ultimate tech session at the 2008 NORTH AMERICAN TRIUMPH CHALLENGE taking place August 4th-8th in Ypsilanti, Michigan. NASS members will be supervising a 48-hour rebuild of a 1963 MKI Triumph Spitfire. Former NASS Membership Chair, Geof Bush, will be heading the team that will rebuild the Spitfire. Other NASS members planning to supervise the rebuild are John Gray, Dave Doehler, John Lamberg, Mark Jones, and Randy Joles. Shift supervisors can't do the rebuild alone. Many more volunteers are needed for the rebuild team. We need more volunteers to work each shift. If you can know which end of a screwdriver to hold or know the difference between a spanner and a roundy thing, you are more than qualified and welcome to join in to assist. If you are interested in volunteering or have any questions, please contact Geof Bush at My79Spitfire at aol.com . Full information about the 2008 North American Triumph Challenge (formerly known as the VTR National Convention) can be found on the event website at http://www.natc2008.com. From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Jun 26 08:11:07 2008 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 10:11:07 -0400 Subject: [TR] NATC 2008: VTR/NASS Spitfire Rebuild - addendum Message-ID: <9CDD6BC8-192D-4E23-84CF-81CC196F892C@blakedischer.com> Sorry everyone for an important omission, I simply copied what Goef had written for the NATC 2008 event program. What I failed to mention is that for insurance reasons, volunteers in the NASS/VTR Spitfire Rebuild need to be registered for the North American Triumph Challenge. Please accept my apology. Cheers, and safe driving, Blake Discher From allegrorover at mac.com Thu Jun 26 14:59:27 2008 From: allegrorover at mac.com (Anthony Cascio) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 14:59:27 -0600 Subject: [TR] 2007 SEVTR Message-ID: List, Did anyone who attended the 2007 SEVTR and received an award ever get their trophy as promised??? I know that I am being somewhat of a pain about this, but it was my first award after my three year restoration and I really had high hopes of getting the trophy I was promised. If you attended and received your trophy I would appreciate a note from you. Again I apologize for being a pain about this, I guess I'm just plain disappointed in the whole matter. Tony Cascio 58 TR3A TS27093L allegrorover at mac.com From pethier at comcast.net Thu Jun 26 15:21:10 2008 From: pethier at comcast.net (pethier at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 21:21:10 +0000 Subject: [TR] 2007 SEVTR Message-ID: <062620082121.18810.486408460007A5C90000497A22147564029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: Anthony Cascio > List, > Did anyone who attended the 2007 SEVTR and received an award ever get > their trophy as promised??? > I know that I am being somewhat of a pain about this, but it was my > first award after my three year restoration and I really had high > hopes of getting the trophy I was promised. > If you attended and received your trophy I would appreciate a note > from you. > Again I apologize for being a pain about this, I guess I'm just plain > disappointed in the whole matter. I feel your pain. The local Porsche Club of America stiffed me for an autocross trophy in 1972. Gave trophies three and four deep in the "higher" classes, then simply announced they were out of trophies. Didn't even announce us winners of the "lower" classes. Didn't call us up for our kisses from Miss Bloomington. Claimed they would send out the trophies later. I'm still waiting. In more recent years the BMW club and the local Land O' Lakes Region of SCCA stiffed me again. It's a breach of trust that just irritates you. -- Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, 1994 Miata C package pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Thu Jun 26 20:45:02 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 22:45:02 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2007 SEVTR References: <062620082121.18810.486408460007A5C90000497A22147564029D0A07089B0A9F@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000701c8d7ff$ccf06cc0$335f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> I received a very nice letter and family "heir loom" gift from John Macartney in the U/K on my award but nothing from VTR as yet. "FT" =========================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Anthony Cascio" ; "email list" Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 5:21 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 2007 SEVTR > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: Anthony Cascio >> List, >> Did anyone who attended the 2007 SEVTR and received an award ever get >> their trophy as promised??? >> I know that I am being somewhat of a pain about this, but it was my >> first award after my three year restoration and I really had high >> hopes of getting the trophy I was promised. >> If you attended and received your trophy I would appreciate a note >> from you. >> Again I apologize for being a pain about this, I guess I'm just plain >> disappointed in the whole matter. > > I feel your pain. The local Porsche Club of America stiffed me for an > autocross trophy in 1972. Gave trophies three and four deep in the > "higher" classes, then simply announced they were out of trophies. Didn't > even announce us winners of the "lower" classes. Didn't call us up for > our kisses from Miss Bloomington. Claimed they would send out the > trophies later. I'm still waiting. > > In more recent years the BMW club and the local Land O' Lakes Region of > SCCA stiffed me again. > > It's a breach of trust that just irritates you. > > -- > Phil Ethier West Side Saint Paul Minnesota USA > 1962 Triumph TR4 CT2846L, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1993 Suburban, > 1994 Miata C package > pethier [at] comcast [dot] net http://forum.mnautox.com/forums/ > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier > I decry the textmessagization of the American-English language. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From bdischer at blakedischer.com Thu Jun 26 21:29:12 2008 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher) Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 23:29:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] 2007 SEVTR In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Tony, You're not being a pain at all. You have not received your award as promised, sounds like something is messed up somewhere. Let me do some digging. I'll report back by the weekend. ________________________ Blake J. Discher, President Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org 1363 East Fisher Freeway, Suite 8, Detroit, MI 48207 | Phone 313.259.4460 On Jun 26, 2008, at 4:59 PM, Anthony Cascio wrote: > Did anyone who attended the 2007 SEVTR and received an award ever get > their trophy as promised??? > I know that I am being somewhat of a pain about this, but it was my > first award after my three year restoration and I really had high > hopes of getting the trophy I was promised. From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jun 27 05:56:40 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 07:56:40 EDT Subject: [TR] 2007 SEVTR Message-ID: In a message dated 6/26/2008 9:45:31 PM Central Daylight Time, frede.thomas2 at verizon.net writes: > I received a very nice letter and family "heir loom" gift from John > Macartney in the U/K on my award but nothing from VTR as yet. "FT" > Congratulations, Fred. Dave From trhouse at greenapple.com Fri Jun 27 09:25:11 2008 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:25:11 -0400 Subject: [TR] Stolen LBC (Central Ohio) Message-ID: I had an 1968 Austin Healey Sprite stolen from My driveway at @ 2:00 AM Tuesday Morning . Those going to mid Ohio keep any eye out if you would car is red with Black interior , some damage where the licence plate light was backed into and dented the area below the boot lid. the drivers side til light was glued back together but falling apart again. Hub Caps non wire wheel car . Good driver with crazed paint . the carpet below the seats and the rear shelf were red in contrast to the rest of the carpet being black. the floor mat was missing on the pasengers side. ( Left it on the drive way after the was the night before it was stolen ) . Alloy valve cover and some fancy air cleaners under hood . the breater for the sump was disconnected at the front of the engine abobe the carbs. BRG original paint history noted as a decal was missing on the radiator support underhood. New stainless steel exhaust. there is reportedly a British car auction in the Granville Ohio area in the next couple of weeks anyone got any info on it or nelson reidels Phone number. Thanks tom From sbracing at sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 27 10:54:29 2008 From: sbracing at sbcglobal.net (Steven Benford Jr) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:54:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [TR] [Fot] Stolen LBC (Central Ohio) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <863258.54595.qm@web81005.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Tom, I am not sure of which person to contact, but I know that Jack and Joe might be able to forward this to the Team Thicko guys. I am sure they would help with keeping an eye open for the car. I really hope this person is caught! Tom Householder wrote: I had an 1968 Austin Healey Sprite stolen from My driveway at @ 2:00 AM Tuesday Morning . Those going to mid Ohio keep any eye out if you would car is red with Black interior , some damage where the licence plate light was backed into and dented the area below the boot lid. the drivers side til light was glued back together but falling apart again. Hub Caps non wire wheel car . Good driver with crazed paint . the carpet below the seats and the rear shelf were red in contrast to the rest of the carpet being black. the floor mat was missing on the pasengers side. ( Left it on the drive way after the was the night before it was stolen ) . Alloy valve cover and some fancy air cleaners under hood . the breater for the sump was disconnected at the front of the engine abobe the carbs. BRG original paint history noted as a decal was missing on the radiator support underhood. New stainless steel exhaust. there is reportedly a British car auction in the Granville Ohio area in the next couple of weeks anyone got any info on it or nelson reidels Phone number. Thanks tom Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot You are subscribed as sbracing at sbcglobal.net From trhouse at greenapple.com Fri Jun 27 11:08:56 2008 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 13:08:56 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Stolen LBC (Central Ohio) In-Reply-To: <863258.54595.qm@web81005.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The engine was performanced out in the past few years . Had an alloy valvecover etc. Photos are available if interested . tom on 6/27/08 12:54 PM, Steven Benford Jr at sbracing at sbcglobal.net wrote: Tom, I am not sure of which person to contact, but I know that Jack and Joe might be able to forward this to the Team Thicko guys. I am sure they would help with keeping an eye open for the car. From wquincy at cox.net Fri Jun 27 13:25:00 2008 From: wquincy at cox.net (William C. Quincy) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 14:25:00 -0500 Subject: [TR] TR3 Overdrive Transmission Lubrication Requirements Message-ID: <1BC729DF-CB0B-4CE6-B906-5B9FE8CC8120@cox.net> Greetings Listers, In all the sources I have, the recommendation for a Trany with overdrive, is 30 weight oil. What is the opinion of the list on this topic? Bill Quincy Wichita, Ks. TR3A TS69623L From 308gtsi at roadrunner.com Fri Jun 27 14:19:42 2008 From: 308gtsi at roadrunner.com (Brian Induni) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 13:19:42 -0700 Subject: [TR] Clock in place of ash tray In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c8d893$2262c6b0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Hi list, Has anyone seen or done an ashtray replacement with a clock in a TR4? I know I read about this once but can't remember where or what exactly was used. Thanks Brian 67 TR4a From steven at newellboys.net Fri Jun 27 14:53:47 2008 From: steven at newellboys.net (Steven Newell) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 14:53:47 -0600 Subject: [TR] Clock in place of ash tray In-Reply-To: <000001c8d893$2262c6b0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> References: <000001c8d893$2262c6b0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <4865535B.5000107@newellboys.net> Brian Induni wrote: >Hi list, > >Has anyone seen or done an ashtray replacement with a clock in a TR4? I know >I read about this once but can't remember where or what exactly was used. > >Thanks > >Brian >67 TR4a > Brian, I got an old aircraft clock on eBay and installed it in an old glovebox door (cutting required). It's pretty cool looking, and has a rally feel to it, and I put a stop-watch mount next to it. It's a wind-up "8 day" clock, so just about right for long weekend road trips. Mine is a Wittnauer brand. Can send photos if you're interested. Steven From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Fri Jun 27 15:36:20 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 14:36:20 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Overdrive Transmission Lubrication Requirements In-Reply-To: <1BC729DF-CB0B-4CE6-B906-5B9FE8CC8120@cox.net> References: <1BC729DF-CB0B-4CE6-B906-5B9FE8CC8120@cox.net> Message-ID: <01d601c8d89d$d9945060$ad5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> > In all the sources I have, the recommendation for a Trany with > overdrive, is 30 weight oil. What is the opinion of the list on this > topic? That's one of those with no clear consensus. I've used Valvoline Racing 20W50 for many years, as recommended both by Ken G. at British Frame and Engine and Herman van den Akker. Seems to work well; but since I always have to try something "better", I've recently switched to Redline MT-90. Too soon to say if it's really any better or not (I'm reasonably confident it had nothing to do with my gearbox failure). Standard-Triumph's recommendation did change over the years; and I believe that, by the vintage of your TR3A, they were recommending 90 weight GL-4 gear oil. (Practical Hints, 6th Ed) The story I've heard is that Laycock (makers of the OD) never recommended "gear oil" as they felt it might shorten the life of the OD clutch and/or cause "sludging". (And in fact, there is an early service bulletin to that effect, apparently as a result of warranty returns of overdrives.) However, S-T eventually decided that they were getting too many returns for worn thrust bearings, and switched to recommending gear oil. However, even GL-4 contains an EP (extreme pressure) additive that can corrode the brass thrust washers and synchro rings over time, which is why I prefer the Valvoline Racing or Redline MT-90. GL-5 contains much more of this additive (which is why everyone says not to use GL-5), but GL-4 still has some. But for no more miles than most people put on their TR3s, I suspect it doesn't make any real difference. Randall From Dave1massey at cs.com Fri Jun 27 16:14:33 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 18:14:33 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 Overdrive Transmission Lubrication Requirements Message-ID: In a message dated 6/27/2008 4:36:42 PM Central Daylight Time, tr3driver at ca.rr.com writes: > That's one of those with no clear consensus. I've used Valvoline Racing > 20W50 for many years, as recommended both by Ken G. at British Frame and > Engine and Herman van den Akker. Seems to work well; but since I always > have to try something "better", I've recently switched to Redline MT-90. > Too soon to say if it's really any better or not (I'm reasonably confident > it had nothing to do with my gearbox failure). > I've used Redline MTL in the TR6 (J-type) for about 10 years with no untoward results. Dave From greg at miranoconsulting.com Fri Jun 27 16:25:14 2008 From: greg at miranoconsulting.com (Greg Tobin) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 22:25:14 +0000 Subject: [TR] test Message-ID: please ignore- Greg Tobin Mirano Consulting Cell: 719.237.9533 ++++++ CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE ++++++ The information in this email may be confidential and/or privileged. This email is intended to be reviewed by only the individual or organization named above. If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review, dissemination or copying of this email and its attachments, if any, or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by return email and delete this email from your system. Thank You. From timipurdy at citlink.net Fri Jun 27 16:35:48 2008 From: timipurdy at citlink.net (Tim I. Purdy) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 15:35:48 -0700 Subject: [TR] Clock in place of ash tray References: <000001c8d893$2262c6b0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> Message-ID: <04b201c8d8a6$266fc8d0$01fea8c0@Lahontan> Shucks, I do not even own a watch, just in a different time zone . . . Tim From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Fri Jun 27 16:40:04 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (fred thomas) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 18:40:04 -0400 Subject: [TR] Clock in place of ash tray References: <000001c8d893$2262c6b0$6a01a8c0@Induninwlaptop> <4865535B.5000107@newellboys.net> Message-ID: <00e501c8d8a6$be9d4dd0$cc4a7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> They make a T/R 2-4 rear view mirrow with a "Smith's" clock inserted in the middle of the mirror, it is electric and really quite neat, yep I have one, I'll try to make a copy of the full page advertisement advertising it. "FT" =========================================================================================================== ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Newell" To: "triumphs" Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 4:53 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Clock in place of ash tray > Brian Induni wrote: > >>Hi list, >> >>Has anyone seen or done an ashtray replacement with a clock in a TR4? I >>know >>I read about this once but can't remember where or what exactly was used. >> >>Thanks >> >>Brian >>67 TR4a >> > Brian, I got an old aircraft clock on eBay and installed it in an old > glovebox door (cutting required). It's pretty cool looking, and has a > rally feel to it, and I put a stop-watch mount next to it. It's a > wind-up "8 day" clock, so just about right for long weekend road trips. > Mine is a Wittnauer brand. Can send photos if you're interested. > > Steven > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as frede.thomas2 at verizon.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From rpeglow at optonline.net Fri Jun 27 20:17:53 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 19:17:53 -0700 Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure Message-ID: <005201c8d8c5$2bdd27d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> I'll be removing 185-15s and installing 205/70-15 tires. Has the list been sticking with 20#'s front and 24#'s rear with these tires. Thanks. Bob From bdischer at blakedischer.com Fri Jun 27 19:48:27 2008 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher) Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 21:48:27 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need help in Charleston, WV Saturday, noonish Message-ID: <26617B30-7750-43C2-B32A-AA3973E2DE88@blakedischer.com> I am driving from Detroit to Charleston, WV tomorrow (Saturday) to pick up the Spitfire we will be rebuilding in 48 hours at VTR's North American Triumph Challenge in Ypsilanti, MI this coming August. My co- pilot has called last minute to say that he cannot come with me, so Vernon Brannon and myself could use one or two people to help us move the car from his trailer to mine. We're both leaving at 5am, Charleston is the midway point between he and I. Mapquest says it should be about seven hours for each of us, so we expect to meet somewhere in Charleston between noon and 1pm. We have not set a meeting point, we're just driving till we meet up somewhere along Highway 77 using our cell phones to coordinate. I'll check email before I leave my house and I have my Crackberry with me as well. My phone number is 313-259-4460 and if anyone cares to lend a hand you can call me beginning at 6am. By that time I should be on my second cup of coffee and coherent. Thanks! Blake J. Discher 1976 TR6, 1971 Stag From Chip19474 at aol.com Sat Jun 28 04:36:53 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 06:36:53 EDT Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure Message-ID: Bob, Sounds like you've got them on a TR6.....same size I have on mine....I use 30#s front and rear....seems to be a good balance for everyday ride and handling..... Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/27/2008 4:21:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rpeglow at optonline.net writes: Has the list been sticking with 20#'s front and 24#'s rear with these tires **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Jun 28 08:50:26 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 07:50:26 -0700 Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure References: Message-ID: <001701c8d92e$4d437a50$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Thanks Chip. Yes, a TR6. I am removing tube-type Michelins and I'll try 30 - 30 with the 205/70-15s. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: Chip19474 at aol.com To: rpeglow at optonline.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 3:36 AM Subject: Re: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure Bob, Sounds like you've got them on a TR6.....same size I have on mine....I use 30#s front and rear....seems to be a good balance for everyday ride and handling..... Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/27/2008 4:21:25 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rpeglow at optonline.net writes: Has the list been sticking with 20#'s front and 24#'s rear with these tires ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. From frede.thomas2 at verizon.net Sat Jun 28 10:35:31 2008 From: frede.thomas2 at verizon.net (FRED E THOMAS) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 12:35:31 -0400 Subject: [TR] oddity Message-ID: <006501c8d93c$fbc73220$964f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Anyone ever seen a "Triumph Portable Radio", 5 bands, rather large and heavy by todays standards but this is from the late 40's to early 50's "FT" From Dave1massey at cs.com Sat Jun 28 12:12:28 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 14:12:28 EDT Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure Message-ID: In a message dated 6/27/2008 6:21:14 PM Central Daylight Time, rpeglow at optonline.net writes: > I'll be removing 185-15s and installing 205/70-15 tires. > Has the list been sticking with 20#'s front and 24#'s rear with these tires. > Thanks. > I like to keep the 4 psi bias R/F so I run 32R, 28F. This bias reduces oversteer which can come on pretty suddenly on a TR6. Dave From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Jun 28 17:03:01 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 16:03:01 -0700 Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4983B09CD0EC46718315D2444733BB9D@GeoPC> I know almost nothing about tires/pressure/handling etc -- but why wouldn't higher pressure up front give you more oversteer rather than less? Seems like higher tire pressure would give a tire more grip. I recall when I had my old Fiat I would crank up the front tire pressure to counter it's pronounced understeer. That said -- I too run about 4 lbs more in the front tires of the TR -- but then I like oversteer. Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: >> > I like to keep the 4 psi bias R/F so I run 32R, 28F. This bias reduces > oversteer which can come on pretty suddenly on a TR6. > > Dave From jimmuller at rcn.com Sat Jun 28 17:34:47 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 19:34:47 -0400 Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure In-Reply-To: <4983B09CD0EC46718315D2444733BB9D@GeoPC> References: Message-ID: <48669257.19087.20BBF4BC@localhost> On 28 Jun 2008 at 16:03, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > I know almost nothing about tires/pressure/handling etc -- but why wouldn't > higher pressure up front give you more oversteer rather than less? > From: > >> > > I like to keep the 4 psi bias R/F so I run 32R, 28F. Ah, Dave was being mischievous, bless his heart. He listed the rear number first! I have no idea why. -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From ahwahnee at cybertrails.com Sat Jun 28 17:57:03 2008 From: ahwahnee at cybertrails.com (Geo & Kathleen Hahn) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 16:57:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure In-Reply-To: <48669257.19087.20BBF4BC@localhost> References: <48669257.19087.20BBF4BC@localhost> Message-ID: <9BFF5425554E4832880289DFA69CBFA1@GeoPC> "Nevermind". Geo ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 4:34 PM Subject: Re: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure > On 28 Jun 2008 at 16:03, Geo & Kathleen Hahn wrote: > >> I know almost nothing about tires/pressure/handling etc -- but why >> wouldn't >> higher pressure up front give you more oversteer rather than less? > >> From: >> >> >> > I like to keep the 4 psi bias R/F so I run 32R, 28F. > > Ah, Dave was being mischievous, bless his heart. He listed the rear > number first! > > I have no idea why. > > -- > Jim Muller From dorpaul at bellsouth.net Sat Jun 28 21:15:57 2008 From: dorpaul at bellsouth.net (dorpaul) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 23:15:57 -0400 Subject: [TR] a tiny slice of the dust boot Message-ID: <00fb01c8d996$7396e5d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> I accidentily cut the leading edge of one dust boot on my caliper brake while rebuilding it. This leading edge is 'tucked-under' the piston so that it holds the dust boot to the caliper unit. My thinking is that the dust boot simply keeps out the dirt and does not affect the piston's new seal. Thus, I'm hoping, that a little slice here does not really affect things. Am I right? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 727 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len From bdischer at blakedischer.com Sat Jun 28 21:40:51 2008 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake Discher) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 23:40:51 -0400 Subject: [TR] Need help in Charleston, WV Saturday, noonish In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1095C937-3785-4BB0-B264-24955238A37C@blakedischer.com> Thanks Darrell, I hit the highway back and didn't stop except for coffee and Mother Nature. Rained off and on for entire drive home; and I mean crazy rain. I just pulled in home here about 30 minutes ago. Car is terrific. Powder blue. Body on frame, all other parts in boxes, maxed out the inside of the Durango. The Detroit Triumph Sportscar Club gang is excited to get it ready for the rebuild at the convention. I'll get some pictures of it tomorrow. See you in Ypsilanti! Cheers, Blake On Jun 28, 2008, at 8:21 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Way late but if you crap out around the turnpike and route 8, > anywhere close, etc., 330-666-2817. From wbeech at flash.net Sat Jun 28 22:46:52 2008 From: wbeech at flash.net (wbeech) Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 22:46:52 -0600 Subject: [TR] a tiny slice of the dust boot In-Reply-To: <00fb01c8d996$7396e5d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> References: <00fb01c8d996$7396e5d0$0101a8c0@YOUR7F50EBAA71> Message-ID: <000601c8d9a3$277f7420$6401a8c0@sniffer> Paul, The dust boot does just what it's name implies, keep dirt out of the caliper piston cylinder. No, it won't affect the performance of your brakes immediately... unless you include premature failure due to dirt getting in to the piston. You may not know it for a year or two, but why take chances with your front brakes as they do most of the work on a TR3. Maybe someone on the list has a loose one they can send you. Bill B '58 TR-3A TS/30766 L '59 TR-3A TS/64974 LO "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of course, some times it is difficult to make it go" -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+wbeech=flash.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dorpaul Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 9:16 PM To: list Triumph Subject: [TR] a tiny slice of the dust boot I accidentily cut the leading edge of one dust boot on my caliper brake while rebuilding it. This leading edge is 'tucked-under' the piston so that it holds the dust boot to the caliper unit. My thinking is that the dust boot simply keeps out the dirt and does not affect the piston's new seal. Thus, I'm hoping, that a little slice here does not really affect things. Am I right? Thanks, Paul Dorsey 60 TR3 -- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 727 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as wbeech at flash.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.101 / Virus Database: 270.4.2/1523 - Release Date: 6/28/2008 7:00 AM From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 29 10:56:02 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 12:56:02 EDT Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure Message-ID: In a message dated 6/28/2008 6:03:26 PM Central Daylight Time, ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: > I know almost nothing about tires/pressure/handling etc -- but why wouldn't > > higher pressure up front give you more oversteer rather than less? > > Seems like higher tire pressure would give a tire more grip. I recall when > I had my old Fiat I would crank up the front tire pressure to counter it's > pronounced understeer. > > That said -- I too run about 4 lbs more in the front tires of the TR -- but > then I like oversteer. > Perhaps my response was a bit cryptic. I run 4 PSI high in the rear. 32 Rear, 28 Front. Everything you say is true. More pressure up front does increase oversteer. When it comes on unexpectedly the car tends to swap ends. Not a good thing in the twisties. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 29 10:56:50 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 12:56:50 EDT Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure Message-ID: In a message dated 6/28/2008 6:57:18 PM Central Daylight Time, ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: > "Nevermind". > > Geo > In that case, disregard my response. Dave From Dave1massey at cs.com Sun Jun 29 11:07:18 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 13:07:18 EDT Subject: [TR] a tiny slice of the dust boot Message-ID: In a message dated 6/28/2008 11:47:20 PM Central Daylight Time, wbeech at flash.net writes: > The dust boot does just what it's name implies, keep dirt out of the > caliper > piston cylinder. No, it won't affect the performance of your brakes > immediately... unless you include premature failure due to dirt getting in > to the piston. You may not know it for a year or two, but why take chances > with your front brakes as they do most of the work on a TR3. > The dustboot also keps out moisture which is more important if you fitted chrome pisotns. Less so if you used stainless steel. If you NEVER drive the car in the rain or store it in high humidity conditions you can probably let it go. Dave From spitlist at cox.net Sun Jun 29 11:09:10 2008 From: spitlist at cox.net (Joe Curry) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 10:09:10 -0700 Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000301c8da0a$d90fab30$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Let us analyze the front tire pressure situation for a minute. If you are looking at the pressure only as it affects the suspension stiffness, stiffer up front increases understeer. So adding pressure adds to Understeer not oversteer. But you can't simply use that equation because the tire profile and rubber patch has a lot to do with it. Obviously, you want to create the best possible contact patch to get the best handling performance. On low profile tires, this is highly dependent on what the manufacturer recommends. If you go too high in pressure, you will reduce the contact patch and grip and in that situation your steering will go away (Understeer) In the event that the pressure is too low, your tires will roll over on the sidewall in hard turns also reducing the contact patch. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey at cs.com Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 9:56 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure In a message dated 6/28/2008 6:03:26 PM Central Daylight Time, ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: > I know almost nothing about tires/pressure/handling etc -- but why wouldn't > > higher pressure up front give you more oversteer rather than less? > > Seems like higher tire pressure would give a tire more grip. I recall when > I had my old Fiat I would crank up the front tire pressure to counter it's > pronounced understeer. > > That said -- I too run about 4 lbs more in the front tires of the TR -- but > then I like oversteer. > Perhaps my response was a bit cryptic. I run 4 PSI high in the rear. 32 Rear, 28 Front. Everything you say is true. More pressure up front does increase oversteer. When it comes on unexpectedly the car tends to swap ends. Not a good thing in the twisties. Dave This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net http://www.team.net/archive From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 29 12:50:34 2008 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 11:50:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] a tiny slice of the dust boot In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7FA877E4-561C-41E6-AEF1-7C7C976158B4@sbcglobal.net> Why not glue the slice with "crazy glue"? The stuff works great on rubber... will probably hold forever... and if it doesn't, you are no worse off than when you started. Mike Denman On Jun 29, 2008, at 10:07 AM, Dave1massey at cs.com wrote: > In a message dated 6/28/2008 11:47:20 PM Central Daylight Time, > wbeech at flash.net writes: >> The dust boot does just what it's name implies, keep dirt out of the >> caliper >> piston cylinder. No, it won't affect the performance of your brakes >> immediately... unless you include premature failure due to dirt >> getting in >> to the piston. You may not know it for a year or two, but why take >> chances >> with your front brakes as they do most of the work on a TR3. >> > The dustboot also keps out moisture which is more important if you > fitted > chrome pisotns. Less so if you used stainless steel. If you NEVER > drive the car > in the rain or store it in high humidity conditions you can probably > let it > go. > > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From mikedenman at sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 29 12:57:06 2008 From: mikedenman at sbcglobal.net (Mike Denman) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 11:57:06 -0700 Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure In-Reply-To: <000301c8da0a$d90fab30$0202a8c0@newcomputer> References: <000301c8da0a$d90fab30$0202a8c0@newcomputer> Message-ID: <8757BDEE-4B01-4F8A-96C0-455BE8F08914@sbcglobal.net> Roger Kraus Racing, a supplier of race tires, has a pretty good description on the role of the various parts of the cars suspension (including tires) and what changes produce what results. See at http://rogerkraustires.com/TechSheets/overunder.shtm N.F.I. and all of that. MIke Denman On Jun 29, 2008, at 10:09 AM, Joe Curry wrote: > Let us analyze the front tire pressure situation for a minute. > > If you are looking at the pressure only as it affects the suspension > stiffness, stiffer up front increases understeer. So adding > pressure adds > to Understeer not oversteer. > > But you can't simply use that equation because the tire profile and > rubber > patch has a lot to do with it. Obviously, you want to create the best > possible contact patch to get the best handling performance. > > On low profile tires, this is highly dependent on what the > manufacturer > recommends. If you go too high in pressure, you will reduce the > contact > patch and grip and in that situation your steering will go away > (Understeer) > > In the event that the pressure is too low, your tires will roll over > on the > sidewall in hard turns also reducing the contact patch. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces+spitlist=cox.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Dave1massey at cs.com > Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 9:56 AM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure > > In a message dated 6/28/2008 6:03:26 PM Central Daylight Time, > ahwahnee at cybertrails.com writes: >> I know almost nothing about tires/pressure/handling etc -- but why > wouldn't >> >> higher pressure up front give you more oversteer rather than less? >> >> Seems like higher tire pressure would give a tire more grip. I >> recall > when >> I had my old Fiat I would crank up the front tire pressure to >> counter it's > >> pronounced understeer. >> >> That said -- I too run about 4 lbs more in the front tires of the >> TR -- > but >> then I like oversteer. >> > Perhaps my response was a bit cryptic. I run 4 PSI high in the > rear. 32 > Rear, 28 Front. Everything you say is true. More pressure up front > does > increase oversteer. When it comes on unexpectedly the car tends to > swap > ends. Not a > good thing in the twisties. > > Dave > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as spitlist at cox.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as mikedenman at sbcglobal.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From FordneyNJ at aol.com Sun Jun 29 16:06:14 2008 From: FordneyNJ at aol.com (FordneyNJ at aol.com) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 18:06:14 EDT Subject: [TR] overdrive Message-ID: Hi list Does anyone recognize these numbers from an o/d unit? 22/61753/007684 Might have come from a spitfire. Angle on the speedometer drive and solenoid indicate a type"A" Based on responses, I'll go look at it. Thanks Rodney Ford, Brick, NJ TR4A IRS CTC60536L TR7 Spider TPVDJ8AA 400612 President, Positive Earth Drivers Club **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 29 16:10:34 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 15:10:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure In-Reply-To: <8757BDEE-4B01-4F8A-96C0-455BE8F08914@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <20080629221034.FQUM7689.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Roger Kraus Racing, a supplier of race tires, has a pretty > good description on the role of the various parts of the cars > suspension (including tires) and what changes produce what > results. See at http://rogerkraustires.com/TechSheets/overunder.shtm This link http://rogerkraustires.com/TechSheets/overunder.shtml might work better. Randall From jimmuller at rcn.com Sun Jun 29 16:13:12 2008 From: jimmuller at rcn.com (Jim Muller) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 18:13:12 -0400 Subject: [TR] overdrive In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <4867D0B8.11148.25979F47@localhost> On 29 Jun 2008 at 18:06, FordneyNJ at aol.com wrote: > Does anyone recognize these numbers from an o/d unit? > 22/61753/007684 I recognize the individual digits. I have seen many times, indeed they are old friends. That particular combination means nothing to me however. A conspiracy perhaps? -- Jim Muller jimmuller at rcn.com '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+ From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 29 16:15:16 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 15:15:16 -0700 Subject: [TR] overdrive In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080629221515.FSAA7689.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@randall> > Does anyone recognize these numbers from an o/d unit? > 22/61753/007684 Might have come from a spitfire. Angle on > the speedometer drive and solenoid indicate a type"A" According to the Moss catalog, that's an A-type from a TR4A IRS. Should have the smaller accumulator piston used on the IRS cars (to soften engagement). AFAIK, Spits never used A-types, only D and J. Of course, no doubt someone somewhere has hooked one up, but I don't think the factory did. Randall From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jun 29 18:20:46 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 20:20:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cold Start Problems Message-ID: <000801c8da47$2449ab00$67aa0018@Scott> I have been having recent problems with starting my '70 TR6 when it is cold. Basically what happens is I pull out the choke and lock it in at 3/4 or full out, turn on the ignition and pump the gas once or twice. The starter is spinning and turning the engine, but it just does not want to turn over. I'll stop after 10-15 seconds. Then try again. It will slowly fire and once it fires, it settles in nicely. If I drive the car or let it run for a while, shut it off, it fires up fine. Even if it sits for a while, it will still fire up. Here is what I have/done: - Tested the battery and it is fine - Replaced the starter last year with a high torque starter - I'm running a flame thrower coil and a petronix ignition (have been for 5+ years now with no problems) - Timing seems to be fine using a light but I usually do not set the timing with a light - Plugs have some black soot on the outer collar but tips are golden brown, which says to me the mixture is good - Once started, the car runs well, but maybe a bit sluggish and once in a blue moon will miss when accelerating from a stop Any thoughts or directions to point me in would be greatly appreciated. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Sun Jun 29 18:43:50 2008 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 17:43:50 -0700 Subject: [TR] Cold Start Problems In-Reply-To: <000801c8da47$2449ab00$67aa0018@Scott> Message-ID: <20080630004351.NUUG10970.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> > and pump the gas once or twice. No real benefit to that ... ZS carbs don't have accelerator pumps like other carbs did. But it's a good idea to hold the throttle open while pulling the choke, to ease operation of the fast idle cam. > Even if it sits for a while, it will still fire up. Makes me wonder if one of your float bowls is leaking somehow, enough to empty when the car sits for a long time. Not sure how you'd check for that, other than dragging a finger on the bottom of the bowl and seeing if it comes away smelling like gas. Randall From trglory at comcast.net Sun Jun 29 20:01:03 2008 From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 22:01:03 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cold Start Problems In-Reply-To: <000801c8da47$2449ab00$67aa0018@Scott> References: <000801c8da47$2449ab00$67aa0018@Scott> Message-ID: <001e01c8da55$276847c0$7638d740$@net> Scott; If I haven't started the car for a while, I'll give the fuel pump priming lever about 5 pulls. I open the choke about 3/4, keep my foot off the accelerator (a habit acquired from driving Fiats and Alfas), turn the key and she usually fires right up after 3 or 4 spins. I don't know what the gap should be for Petronix, but maybe you're not getting as fat a spark as you need. Adjust your plugs a couple thou just to see what happens. Joe -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott Suhring Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 8:21 PM To: Triumph Mail List Subject: [TR] Cold Start Problems I have been having recent problems with starting my '70 TR6 when it is cold. Basically what happens is I pull out the choke and lock it in at 3/4 or full out, turn on the ignition and pump the gas once or twice. The starter is spinning and turning the engine, but it just does not want to turn over. I'll stop after 10-15 seconds. Then try again. It will slowly fire and once it fires, it settles in nicely. If I drive the car or let it run for a while, shut it off, it fires up fine. Even if it sits for a while, it will still fire up. Here is what I have/done: - Tested the battery and it is fine - Replaced the starter last year with a high torque starter - I'm running a flame thrower coil and a petronix ignition (have been for 5+ years now with no problems) - Timing seems to be fine using a light but I usually do not set the timing with a light - Plugs have some black soot on the outer collar but tips are golden brown, which says to me the mixture is good - Once started, the car runs well, but maybe a bit sluggish and once in a blue moon will miss when accelerating from a stop Any thoughts or directions to point me in would be greatly appreciated. TIA Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as trglory at comcast.net http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.101 / Virus Database: 270.4.3/1525 - Release Date: 6/29/2008 3:09 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.101 / Virus Database: 270.4.3/1525 - Release Date: 6/29/2008 3:09 PM From suhringtr36 at comcast.net Sun Jun 29 21:02:37 2008 From: suhringtr36 at comcast.net (Scott Suhring) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 23:02:37 -0400 Subject: [TR] Cold Start Problems In-Reply-To: <20080630004351.NUUG10970.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> References: <000801c8da47$2449ab00$67aa0018@Scott> <20080630004351.NUUG10970.cdptpa-omta04.mail.rr.com@randall> Message-ID: <000801c8da5d$c0cfb2b0$67aa0018@Scott> Randall: I get very little gas leakage unless the car is sitting for an extended period of time (month+). I did think of this and tried hand priming the bowls. One pump and the leaver would have no resistance, so the bowls were full. Thanks. Scott Suhring Mechanicsburg, PA '70 TR6 '59 TR3 -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+suhringtr36=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 8:44 PM To: 'Triumph Mail List' Subject: Re: [TR] Cold Start Problems > and pump the gas once or twice. No real benefit to that ... ZS carbs don't have accelerator pumps like other carbs did. But it's a good idea to hold the throttle open while pulling the choke, to ease operation of the fast idle cam. > Even if it sits for a while, it will still fire up. Makes me wonder if one of your float bowls is leaking somehow, enough to empty when the car sits for a long time. Not sure how you'd check for that, other than dragging a finger on the bottom of the bowl and seeing if it comes away smelling like gas. Randall From llst at shaw.ca Sun Jun 29 23:28:34 2008 From: llst at shaw.ca (LT) Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 22:28:34 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 engine issues Message-ID: <48686F02.5070805@shaw.ca> I recently purchased a 57 TR3 and upon getting it started I have discovered some issues with the engine. After about 10 minutes of motor idling, smoke/fog in great volumes exits the exhaust pipe. I also noticed that engine oil is blown out the dipstick when the dipstick is removed while the engine is idling. The previous owner had indicated to me that the engine has about 4800 miles on it since a rebuild and had no issues. The rebuild was done in 1985. The car has not been driven since May of 2000. I do not believe that the engine was operated at all in the last four/five years as there was a gas leak at the rear carb and the gas had gone bad. The engine oil (Castrol 20/50) had last been changed in 1997 and there is 400 miles on the odometer since the oil change. I assumed that I had a stuck ring/rings and a valve that was not seating properly creating the blow by. I checked the rocker arm/valve gap clearances and found them to be at the recommended setting. I removed the spark plugs and discovered #1 and # 2 to be on the black and wet side indicating oil usage whereas #3 and #4 seemed okay. I decided to see if I could free up the stuck rings by adding a mixture of kerosene and transmission fluid into all of the cylinders. Did this a few time and ran the car with no improvement although I thought there was less blue smoke. Upon removing the plugs after running the engine, I noticed some steam coming out of cylinder 1. (Happened twice) Did a compression test, I think after one of the soakings and found compression at 185-195. Would probably consider this a wet test. Seemed on the high side but have no idea what it could/should be. Decided to remove the cylinder head to see if I could spot a problem with the head gasket or perhaps a crack in the head. Found nothing that would explain the water usage. With the head off, I added more kerosene 1/4 to 3/8 inch to the cylinders to work on the rings and found that on # 3 and #4, the kerosene works its way through in a couple of hours whereas # 2 takes about 6 hours and # 1 does not seem to pass any. I would assume that the kerosene should work it's way through as the ring should have a gap on the butt end The engine serial # is S19047E and it has 87 mm liners. The liners do not appear to be as proud of the block as recommended (.003 to .055). More like .002. The existing copper head gasket was for 86 mm liners, and bears a Stanpart number. The pistons are labeleed with STD 7E. Any words of wisdom on the situation would be appreciated. Larry :'( From tswhitez123 at hotmail.com Mon Jun 30 02:24:51 2008 From: tswhitez123 at hotmail.com (tom white) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 08:24:51 +0000 Subject: [TR] a tiny slice of the dust boot In-Reply-To: <7FA877E4-561C-41E6-AEF1-7C7C976158B4@sbcglobal.net> References: <7FA877E4-561C-41E6-AEF1-7C7C976158B4@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: My front false tooth came loose from it's bridge two days before I was to leave for Amsterdam last month. This has happened a couple of times before and modern dentists are perplexed as to how to hold or glue it in. My good dentist who recently retired used every form of glue in his office. The repair was usually good for about 4 years. This time I didn't have time to see a dentist so I glued it back in with crazy glue gel. Working great thus far. Best regards, Tom _________________________________________________________________ Introducing Live Search cashback . It's search that pays you back! http://search.live.com/cashback/?&pkw=form=MIJAAF/publ=HMTGL/crea=introsrchca shback From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jun 30 05:03:16 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 07:03:16 EDT Subject: [TR] TR3 engine issues Message-ID: In a message dated 6/30/2008 12:29:35 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, llst at shaw.ca writes: After about 10 minutes of motor idling, smoke/fog in great volumes exits the exhaust pipe. I also noticed that engine oil is blown out the dipstick when the dipstick is removed while the engine is idling. My vote is head gasket/crack. Something is allowing water/coolant into a combustion chamber when it reaches temperature. As to the oil, make sure that the motor is properly vented. It sounds like you have too much crankcase pressure. Regardless of what your rings are doing, this motor has a rather large vent, drivers side rear, that should handle any and all pressure that the motor can deliver without finding other places of egress. Personally, I would stop putting kerosene in the motor right away. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From Dave1massey at cs.com Mon Jun 30 06:26:45 2008 From: Dave1massey at cs.com (Dave1massey at cs.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 08:26:45 EDT Subject: [TR] 205/70-15 tire pressure Message-ID: In a message dated 6/29/2008 1:57:24 PM Central Daylight Time, mikedenman at sbcglobal.net writes: > Roger Kraus Racing, a supplier of race tires, has a pretty good > description on the role of the various parts of the cars suspension > (including tires) and what changes produce what results. See at > http://rogerkraustires.com/TechSheets/overunder.shtm > N.F.I. and all of that. > MIke Denman > > Cool. There's a bunch of stuff I didn't know there. I knew about the sway bars because back in the 80's when I had my TR4 I ordered sway bars from JC Whatnot. They shipped the rear right away but the front was put on backorder. After a couple weeks I got impatient and mounted the rear bar even though I had heard that was a bad idea. What a hoot! U-turns were really easy. It was fun but not necessarily safe. Dave BTW, that should be http://WWW.rogerkraustires.com/TechSheets/overunder.shtm From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Jun 30 06:56:35 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 08:56:35 EDT Subject: [TR] Cold Start Problems Message-ID: Hey Scott, Because the engine runs fine after it starts, I agree with another post that your carb linkage may not be set correctly to crack the throttle plates open a bit from the fast idle cam on each carb. It's easy to check.....if you have a helper, have the person pull the choke out while you watch the linkage - look for the tang on the linkage to contact the fast idle cam and move the cam along a bit which should crack the throttle plates open enough to get the mixture into the manifold. Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 6/29/2008 5:22:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, suhringtr36 at comcast.net writes: I pull out the choke and lock it in at 3/4 or full out, turn on the ignition **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) From aribert.neumann at edag-us.com Mon Jun 30 07:04:19 2008 From: aribert.neumann at edag-us.com (Aribert Neumann) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 09:04:19 -0400 Subject: [TR] Spit / GT6 tail lamp question - plastic inserts Message-ID: The tail lamps on my '71 GT6 convertible have plastic reflector inserts in them for both the turn and stop lamps. Does any one know if this was just for the US market to get the lamp beam pattern to meet a specific target? I use a brighter stop bulb and when I pulled a lamp asm off to replace the stop & turn lenses (I figured after 37 years it was time to renew the lenses to get more light transmitting thru) I noticed that the plastic reflector around the stop lens had begun to melt. I am thinking of just removing the plastic part and am wondering if anyone in other parts of the world have pulled the lenses off of '71 or newer Spit or GT6 tail lamps and were there plastic reflector inserts inserted into the chromed pot metal housing. TIA From allenhess at mgcarclub.com Mon Jun 30 08:06:41 2008 From: allenhess at mgcarclub.com (Allen Hess) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 10:06:41 -0400 Subject: [TR] TR3 engine issues Message-ID: Since the car has sat (unattended ??) for 8 years, and you're in Canada (from your e-mail address??), I think a cracked block due to old anti-freeze. Had a somewhat similar experience. Allen From llst at shaw.ca Mon Jun 30 09:28:03 2008 From: llst at shaw.ca (LT) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 08:28:03 -0700 Subject: [TR] overdrive Message-ID: <4868FB83.60108@shaw.ca> Does anyone recognize these numbers from an o/d unit? 22/61753/007684 Might have come from a spitfire. Angle on the speedometer drive and solenoid indicate a type"A" Based on responses, I'll go look at it. The A type had a large brass drain plug whereas the D type has a square steel plug. The input shaft is larger on the A type. The spline OD is 1.25 inch The solenoid is the same for both the A and the D as is the angle drive. Check any of the online parts places that have pics to see the units. Larry From banc8004 at comcast.net Mon Jun 30 11:24:47 2008 From: banc8004 at comcast.net (banc8004 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 17:24:47 +0000 Subject: [TR] a tiny slice of the dust boot Message-ID: <063020081724.19739.486916DF00049B3A00004D1B2207300033CBCFCFC80C020E0D@comcast.net> Paul, More than anything on the car, its your brakes, and your front brakes in particular, that have to be as good as they can be. Road grit will be the enemy of that seal between the piston and the caliper. With grit in the piston/seal area area, as the piston moves in and out, grit will work away at the seal causing it to fail. The piston and its seal are protected from road grit by the dust cover. You have a small split in your seal now. A split that may well enlarge quickly and allow grit to compromise your seal. You'll then be leaking hydraulic fluid at the pad/rotor area, with at least one piston not working well. You will then take more distance to stop the car. How long will this take? Who knows. Depends where you drive. Don't risk it, glued or not, for the sake of a rubber boot. Its akin to ruining the ship for a ha'fpenny of tar. Brian From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Jun 30 15:39:15 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 14:39:15 -0700 Subject: [TR] TR3 Fender Message-ID: Hi folks, We have a friend who needs a Left Front Fender for a TR3 ... no ... not Casper ... BTW Triumphs Only of Stockton is now open at their new address ... same phone number ... -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From trhouse at greenapple.com Mon Jun 30 17:36:46 2008 From: trhouse at greenapple.com (Tom Householder) Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 19:36:46 -0400 Subject: [TR] [Fot] Stolen LBC (Central Ohio) photos In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Photos of the stolen car can be seen at..... http://www.doretti.com/StolenPage.html on 6/27/08 1:08 PM, Tom Householder at trhouse at greenapple.com wrote: The engine was performanced out in the past few years . Had an alloy valvecover etc. Photos are available if interested . tom on 6/27/08 12:54 PM, Steven Benford Jr at sbracing at sbcglobal.net wrote: